Plumbing
Black and Decker Heres How Plumbing
Source: Black and Decker Heres How Plumbing.pdf
Source file: Black and Decker Heres How Plumbing.pdf
HERE ’S HOW ...PLUMBING 22 Easy Fix It Repairs to Save You Money & Time
Leaky Faucets Clogged Drains Running Toilets Burst Pipes Old, Ugly Fixtures
$ 9.99
HERE ’S HOW ...PLUMBING 22 Easy Fix It Repairs to Save You Money & Time
MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA
www.creativepub.comContents
1 Fixing Leaky 2 Repairing SprayersINTRODUCTION … … … … … … … … . 5 Sink Faucets … … … 6 & Aerators … … … . 14
3 Fixing & Replacing 4 Fixing Tub & Shower 5 Installing a New 6 Installing a Showerheads … … . 18 Faucets … … … … .20 Vanity Faucet… … . . 28 Pedestal Sink… … . . 36
7 Installing a Wall-hung 8 Installing a 9 Installing an Integral 10 Replacing Vanity… … … … . . 38 Vessel Sink … … … 40 Vanity Top … … … . 44 a Toilet … … … . . 46
11 Installing Sliding 12 Installing a 3-Piece 13 Unclogging 14 Replacing a Tub Doors … … … . 52 Tub Surround… … . . 56 a Toilet … … … … . 60 Toilet Flange … … . . 64
15 Unclogging Tub & 16 Unclogging 17 Clearing Main 18 Replacing a Shower Drains … . 66 Sink Drains … … . 70 Drains … … … . . 72 Kitchen Sink … … 76
19 Replacing a Kitchen 20 Connecting a 21 Patching 22 Installing Faucet … … … . . 78 Kitchen Drain… … 84 Burst Pipes … … . 88 Shutoff Valves … . . 90
APPENDIX: Plumbing Tools… … … … … … … … 92
(7) Roof vent
(8) Waste and vent
stack
(6) Vent pipe
(5) Trap
(4) Water
heater
(3) Branch
line
Branch drain line
Main
shutoff
valve
(2) Water meterHot water supply lines
Floor drainCold water supply lines
Drain lines
Vent lines
(1) Main supply line (9) Sewer lineIntroduction F or bargain-conscious homeowners, Here’s How: Plumbing offers complete information on the 22 critical plumbing projects that do-it-yourselfers are likely to face. Unlike larger, more expensive volumes this book doesn’t include the background information on plumbing systems. Nor does it include exhaustive information on working with various plumbing materials. And it also leaves out a few projects that are of more interest to professional plumbers and contractors than to homeowners. But Here’s How: Plumbing does give you all the information you need to effectively deal with all the most common home plumbing problems that are likely to arise. If you see yourself as a novice or even intermeditate DIYer, this may well be the only book you’ll need. With Here’s How: Plumbing, you’ll be able to diagnose and fix a leaky faucet anywhere in your home; and if you no longer want to fix the faucet, you’ll be able to replace it. You’ll also learn how to clear all manner of clogged drains, from basement floor drains to bathroom toilets, sinks and tubs. Some key emergency repairs, such as patching a burst pipe, are also included. Replacing an old toilet or vanity? No problem, with Here’s How: Plumbing. Install a tub-shower surround, or a sliding shower door? Here’s your book. Replace a kitchen sink? Check. Installing shut off valves? Check. A helpful appendix at the end of the book shows the common plumbing tools you may find useful in making all these plumbing repairs, and more. Today, a professional plumber often charges $100 per hour or more to come to your home to make repairs you can easily do yourself in a few minutes. Is there anybody who really wants to waste that kind of money? Armed with this low-cost book, you’ll easily save hundreds of dollars a year by doing the work yourself.
■ 5- Fixing Leaky Sink Faucets
I t’s not surprising that sink faucets leak and drip. Any fitting that contains moving mechanical parts is susceptible to failure. But add to the equation the easiest and most reliable repair method is to purchase a replacement kit with brand new internal working parts for the model and brand of faucet you own. persistent force of water pressure working against the parts, and the real surprise is that faucets don’t fail more quickly or often. It would be a bit unfair to Tools & Materials ▸ say that the inner workings of a faucet are regarded Pliers Repair kit as disposable by manufacturers, but it is safe to say Needlenose pliers (exact type varies) that these parts have become more easy to remove Heatproof grease Teflon tape and replace. Channel-type pliers Screwdrivers The most important aspect of sink faucet repair Utility knife Pipe joint compound is identifying which type of faucet you own. In this White Vinager Plumber’s putty chapter we show all of the common types and provide Old toothbrush Rag instructions on repairing them. In every case, the Tape measure
Eventually, just about every faucet develops leaks and drips. Repairs can usually be accomplished simply by replacing the mechanical parts inside the faucet body (the main trick is figuring out which kind of parts your faucet has).
6 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
Almost all leaks are caused by
malfunctioning faucet valve mechanisms.
Whether your sink faucet is a one-handle
cartridge type (left) or a two-handle
compression type or anything in between,
Cartridge
the solution to fixing the leak is to clean or
replace the parts that seal off the hot and
cold water inlets from the spout.
MixingSpout chamber
Aerator
Hot water supply tube
Cold water supply tubeCommon Problems and Repairs ▸ Problems Repairs
Faucet drips from the end of the spout 1. Identify the faucet design (page 8), then install or leaks around the base. replacement parts, using directions on the following pages.
Old worn-out faucet continues to leak 1. Replace the old faucet (page 28). after repairs are made.
Water pressure at spout seems low, 1. Clean faucet aerator (page 14). or water flow is partially blocked. 2. Replace corroded galvanized pipes with copper.
Water pressure from sprayer seems 1. Clean sprayer head (page 14). low, or sprayer leaks from handle. 2. Fix diverter valve (page 23).
Water leaks onto floor underneath faucet. 1. Replace cracked sprayer hose. 2. Tighten water connections, or replace supply tubes and shutoff valves. 3. Fix leaky sink strainer.
Hose bib or valve drips from spout 1. Take valve apart and replace washers or leaks around handle. and O-rings.
Fixing Leaky Sink Faucets ■ 7■ Common Faucet Types A leaky faucet is the most common home plumbing have washers or seals that must be replaced from problem. Leaks occur when washers, O-rings, or time to time. These repairs are easy to make, and seals inside the faucet are dirty or worn. Fixing replacement parts are inexpensive. leaks is easy, but the techniques for making repairs Ball-type, cartridge, and disc faucets are all known will vary, depending on the design of the faucet. as washerless faucets. Many washerless faucets Before beginning work, you must first identify your are controlled with a single handle, although some faucet design and determine what replacement parts cartridge models use two handles. Washerless faucets are needed. are more trouble-free than compression faucets and There are four basic faucet designs: ball-type, are designed for quick repair. cartridge, disc, and compression. Many faucets When installing new faucet parts, make sure the can be identified easily by outer appearance, but replacements match the original parts. Replacement others must be taken apart before the design can parts for popular washerless faucets are identified by be recognized. brand name and model number. To ensure a correct The compression design is used in many selection, you may want to bring the worn parts to the double-handle faucets. Compression faucets all store for comparison.
Ball-type faucet has a single handle over a dome-shaped Cartridge faucets are available in single-handle or cap. If your single-handle faucet is made by Delta® or double-handle models. Popular cartridge faucet brands include Peerless®, it is probably a ball-type faucet. See page 12 to fix Price Pfister™, Moen, Valley, and Aqualine. See page 11 to fix a a ball-type faucet. cartridge faucet.
Compression faucet has two handles. When shutting the Disc faucet has a single handle and a solid, chromed-brass faucet off, you usually can feel a rubber washer being squeezed body. If your faucet is made by American Standard or Reliant, inside the faucet. Compression faucets are sold under many it may be a disc faucet. See page 13 to fix a disc faucet. brand names. See page 10 to fix a compression faucet.
8 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ Faucet Repair Kits
Replacement ball
Allen wrench
toolRepair kit for a ball-type faucet includes rubber valve Replacement cartridges come in dozens of styles. seats, springs, cam, cam washer, and spout O-rings. Kit Cartridges are available for popular faucet brands, including may also include small Allen wrench tool used to remove (from left) PricePfister™, Moen, and Kohler. O-ring kits may be faucet handle. Make sure kit is made for your faucet model. sold separately. Replacement ball can be purchased separately but is not needed unless old ball is obviously worn.
Universal washer kit contains parts needed to fix most Replacement cylinder for disc faucet is necessary only if types of compression faucets. Choose a kit that has an faucet continues to leak after cleaning. Continuous leaking is assortment of neoprene washers, O-rings, packing washers, caused by cracked or scratched ceramic discs. Replacement and brass stem screws. cylinders come with neoprene seals and mounting screws.
Fixing Leaky Sink Faucets ■ 9■ Compression Faucets Index cap
Stem Faucet
assembly body
Handle
screw
Handle
Retaining
nut Remove the faucet handles so you can grasp the retaining
nut for the stem assembly with pliers. Loosen the nut and
remove the entire stem assembly.
Threaded
spindle
Stem washer
Stem assembly
O-ring O-ring
Stem
washer
Stem
screw
Valve
seatA compression faucet has a stem assembly that includes a Remove the old O-ring and replace it with a new one. Also retaining nut, threaded spindle, O-ring, stem washer, and stem replace the stem washer. Clean all parts with white vinegar, screw. Dripping at the spout occurs when the washer becomes scrubbing with an old toothbrush if necessary. Coat the new worn. Leaks around the handle are caused by a worn O-ring. O-ring and stem washer with heatproof grease and reassemble the valve.
10 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ Cartridge Faucets Index cap
Handle screw
Retaining nutHandle
Cartridge
Remove the faucet handle and withdraw the old cartridge.
Make a note of how the cartridge is oriented before you
remove it. Purchase a replacement cartridge.Retaining nut
Spout
Valve body
O-ringBoth one- and two-handle faucets are available with Install the replacement cartridge. Clean the valve seat first replaceable plastic cartridges inside the faucet body. These and coat the valve seat and O-rings with heatproof grease. Be cartridges (used by PricePfister™, Sterling, Kohler, Moen, sure the new cartridge is in the correct position, with its tabs and others) regulate the flow of water through the spout, seated in the slotted body of the faucet. Re-assemble the valve and in single-handle faucets they also mix the hot and cold and handles. water to alter the temperature out of the spout. To locate the correct replacement cartridge for your faucet, knowing the manufacturer and model number is a great help.
Fixing Leaky Sink Faucets ■ 11■ Ball Faucets Setscrew Ball
Handle
Cam
Adjusting
ring
CapKnurled edge
Spout
Cam
Remove the old ball and cam after removing the faucet
handle and ball cap. Some faucets may require a ball faucet
Cam washer
r tool to remove the handle. Otherwise, simply use a pair of
channel-type pliers to twist off the ball cap.
Valve Ball
seat
Spring
O-rings
Valve bodyThe ball-type faucet is used by Delta, Peerless, and a few Pry out the neoprene valve seals and springs and others. The ball fits into the faucet body and is constructed replace them with new parts. Also replace the O-rings on the with three holes (not visible here)—a hot inlet, a cold inlet, and valve body. You may want to replace the ball and cam, too, the outlet, which fills the valve body with water that then flows especially if you’re purchasing a repair kit. Coat all rubber parts to the spout or sprayer. Depending on the position of the ball, in heatproof grease, and reassemble the faucet. each inlet hole is open, closed, or somewhere in-between. The inlet holes are sealed to the ball with valve seats, which are pressed tight against the ball with springs. If water drips from the spout, replace the seats and springs. Or go ahead and purchase an entire replacement kit and replace all or most of the working parts.
12 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ Disc Faucets
Handle
Setscrew
CapMounting screws Cylinder containing Disassemble the faucet handle and remove the old disc. ceramic discs You’ll need to unscrew the three long mounting screws all the way to get the cylinder containing the ceramic discs out of the faucet.
Neoprene sealsWater inlet
SpoutThe disc-type faucet used by American Standard, among Replace the cylinder with a new one, coating the others, has a wide disc cartridge hidden beneath the handle rubber parts with heatproof grease before installing the and the cap. Mounting screws hold the cartridge in the valve new cylinder. Make sure the rubber seals fit correctly in the body. Two tight-fitting ceramic discs with holes in them are cylinder openings before you install the cylinder. Assemble concealed inside the cartridge. The handle slides the top the faucet handle. disc back and forth and from side to side over the stationary bottom disc. This brings the holes in the disks into and out of alignment, adjusting the flow and mix of hot and cold water.
Fixing Leaky Sink Faucets ■ 132. Repairing Sprayers & Aerators
I f water pressure from a sink sprayer seems low, or if water leaks from the handle, it is usually because lime buildup and sediment have blocked small attachment with a small wire screen that mixes tiny air bubbles into the water flow. Make sure the wire screen is not clogged with sediment and lime buildup. If water openings inside the sprayer head. To fix the problem, pressure is low throughout the house, it may be because first take the sprayer head apart and clean the parts. If galvanized iron water pipes are corroded. cleaning the sprayer head does not help, the problem may be caused by a faulty diverter valve. The diverter valve inside the faucet body shifts water flow from the faucet spout to the sprayer when the sprayer handle is Tools & Materials ▸ pressed. Cleaning or replacing the diverter valve may fix water pressure problems. Screwdriver Universal washer kit Whenever making repairs to a sink sprayer, check Channel-type pliers Heatproof grease the sprayer hose for kinks or cracks. A damaged hose Needlenose pliers Replacement should be replaced. Small brush sprayer hose If water pressure from a faucet spout seems low, Vinegar or if the flow is partially blocked, take the spout aerator apart and clean the parts. The aerator is a screw-on
Kitchen sprayers are very convenient and, in theory, quite simple. Yet, they break down with surprising regularity. Fixing or replacing one is an easy job, however.
14 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
The standard sprayer hose attachment
is connected to a nipple at the bottom of
the faucet valve. When the lever of the
sprayer is depressed, water flows from a
Sprayer head
diverter valve in the faucet body out to the
sprayer. If your sprayer stream is weak or
doesn’t work at all, the chances are good
Handle mount that the problem lies in the diverter valve.
Sprayer base
Tailpiece
Faucet Mounting nut
sprayer Coupling nut
nipple
Sprayer Supply tube
hose
Stop valve
Aerator
O-ring
Cartridge Sprayer
head
Washer Handle
mount
Flow
RestrictorDiverter valves and aerators differ from faucet to faucet, Sprayer heads can be removed from the sprayer hose, so you’ll need to know the make and model if your faucet to usually by loosening a retaining nut. By removing the head, purchase replacement. However, if you bring the old parts in disassembling it as much as you can and cleaning it you may to the plumbing supply store, they can probably find the right be able to solve a weak spray problem. replacements for you.
Repairing Sprayers & Aerators ■ 15■ How to Repair a Sprayer 1 2
Diverter valveShut off the water at the stop valves and remove the Locate the diverter valve, seen here at the base of the faucet handle to gain access to the faucet parts. Disassemble valve body. Because different types and brands of faucets the faucet handle and body to expose the diverter valve. have differently configured diverters, do a little investigating Ball-type faucets like the one shown here require that you beforehand to try and locate information about your faucet. also remove the spout to get at the diverter. The above faucet is a ball type.
3 4 Diverter valve washer
Diverter valvePull the diverter valve from the faucet body with Coat the washer or O-ring on the new or cleaned diverter needlenose pliers. Use a toothbrush dipped in white vinegar valve with heatproof grease. Insert the diverter valve back into to clean any lime buildup from the valve. If the valve is in poor the faucet body. Reassemble the faucet. Turn on the water and condition, bring it to the hardware store and purchase test the sprayer. If it still isn’t functioning to your satisfaction, a replacement. remove the sprayer tip and run the sprayer without the filter and aerator in case any debris has made its way into the sprayer line during repairs.
16 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ How to Repair a Kitchen Sprayer 1 2
BaseTo replace a sprayer hose, start by shutting off the water at Unscrew the mounting nut of the old sprayer from below the shutoff valves. Clear out the cabinet under your sink and and remove the old sprayer body. Clean the sink deck and then put on eye protection. Unthread the coupling nut that attaches apply plumber’s putty to the base of the new sprayer. Insert the old hose to a nipple or tube below the faucet spout. Use the new sprayer tailpiece into the opening in the sink deck. a basin wrench if you can’t get your channel-type pliers on the nut.
3 4 Friction washer
Mounting nut
From below, slip the friction washer up over the sprayer Screw the coupling for the sprayer hose onto the hose tailpiece. Screw the mounting nut onto the tailpiece and nipple underneath the faucet body. For a good seal, apply pipe tighten with a basin wrench or channel-type pliers. Do not joint compound to the nipple threads first. Tighten the coupling overtighten. Wipe away any excess plumber’s putty. with a basin wrench, turn on the water supply at the shutoff valves, and test the new sprayer.
Repairing Sprayers & Aerators ■ 173. Fixing & Replacing Showerheads I f spray from the showerhead is uneven, clean the spray holes. The outlet or inlet holes of the showerhead may get clogged with mineral deposits. Shower arm
Showerheads pivot into different positions. If a Collar nut showerhead does not stay in position, or if it leaks, replace the O-ring that seals against the swivel ball. Swivel ball nut A tub can be equipped with a shower by installing Spray adjustment cam a flexible shower adapter kit. Complete kits are lever available at hardware stores and home centers.
Swivel ball
Tools & Materials ▸
O-ring
Adjustable wrench Masking tape
or channel-type Thin wire (paper clip)
pliers Heatproof grease
Pipe wrench Rag
Spray outlets
Drill Replacement O-rings
Glass and tile bit Masonry anchors A typical showerhead can be disassembled easily for
Mallet Flexible shower adapter cleaning and repair. Some showerheads include a spray
Screwdriver kit (optional) adjustment cam lever that is used to change the force of
the spray.■ How to Clean & Repair a Showerhead 1 2 Inlet holes 3 Swivel ball nut O-ring
Collar
nutUnscrew the swivel ball nut, using Clean outlet and inlet holes of Replace the O-ring, if necessary. an adjustable wrench or channel-type showerhead with a thin wire. Flush Lubricate the O-ring with heatproof pliers. Wrap jaws of the tool with the head with clean water. grease before installing. masking tape to prevent marring the finish. Unscrew collar nut from the showerhead.
18 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ How to Install a Flexible Shower Adapter 1 2 Adapter hose outlet 3 Adapter hose outlet
Flexible
shower
hose
Flexible
shower
hoseRemove old tub spout. Install new Attach flexible shower hose to Determine location of showerhead tub spout from kit, using a pipe wrench. the adaptor hose outlet. Tighten hanger. Use hose length as a guide, and New spout will have an adapter hose with an adjustable wrench or make sure shower-head can be easily outlet. Wrap the tub spout with a rag to channel-type pliers. lifted off hanger. prevent damage to the chrome finish.
4 5 6
Mark hole locations. Use a glass and Insert anchors into holes, and Fasten showerhead holder to the tile bit to drill holes in ceramic tile for tap into place with a wooden or wall, and hang showerhead. masonry anchors. rubber mallet.
Fixing & Replacing Showerheads ■ 194. Fixing Tub & Shower Faucets
T ub and shower faucets have the same basic designs as sink faucets, and the techniques for repairing leaks are the same as described in the faucet repair on, the diverter valve probably needs to be cleaned and repaired (page 23). Two-handle and single-handle types use a gate section of this book (pages 6 to 13). To identify your diverter that is operated by a pull lever or knob on the faucet design, you may have to take off the handle and tub spout. Although gate diverters rarely need repair, disassemble the faucet. the lever occasionally may break, come loose, or refuse When a tub and shower are combined, the to stay in the up position. To repair a gate diverter set showerhead and the tub spout share the same hot and in a tub spout, replace the entire spout. cold water supply lines and handles. Combination Tub and shower faucets and diverter valves may faucets are available as three-handle, two-handle, be set inside wall cavities. Removing them may require or single-handle types (next page). The number of a deep-set ratchet wrench. handles gives clues as to the design of the faucets and If spray from the showerhead is uneven, clean the kinds of repairs that may be necessary. the spray holes. If the showerhead does not stay in With combination faucets, a diverter valve or gate an upright position, remove the head and replace the diverter is used to direct water flow to the tub spout O-ring. or the showerhead. On three-handle faucet types, the To add a shower to an existing tub, install a middle handle controls a diverter valve. If water does flexible shower adapter. Several manufacturers make not shift easily from tub to showerhead, or if water complete conversion kits that allow a shower to be continues to run out the spout when the shower is installed in less than one hour.
Tub/shower plumbing is notorious for developing drips from the tub spout and the showerhead. In most cases, the leak can be traced to the valves controlled by the faucet handles.
20 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ Tub & Shower Combination Faucets
Showerhead Showerhead Showerhead
Diverter valve
Cold
water
supply
Cold Cold line
water water
supply supply
line line
Gate
diverter
Tub spout
Tub spout
Tub spoutHot water Hot water Hot water supply line supply line supply line
Three-handle faucet (page 22) has Two-handle faucet (page 24) has Single-handle faucet (page 26) has valves that are either compression or valves that are either compression or valves that are cartridge, ball-type, or cartridge design. cartridge design. disc design.
Fixing Tub & Shower Faucets ■ 21■ Fixing Three-handle Tub & Shower Faucets A three-handle faucet type has two handles to control hot and cold water, and a third handle to control the diverter valve and direct water to Remember to turn off the water before beginning work.
either a tub spout or a shower head. The separate hot and cold handles indicate cartridge or compression faucet designs. Tools & Materials ▸ If a diverter valve sticks, if water flow is weak, or Screwdriver Replacement if water runs out of the tub spout when the flow is Adjustable wrench diverter cartridge directed to the showerhead, the diverter needs to be or channel-type or universal repaired or replaced. Most diverter valves are similar pliers washer kit to either compression or cartridge faucet valves. Deep-set Heatproof grease Compression-type diverters can be repaired, but ratchet wrench Vinegar cartridge types should be replaced. Small wire brush
Water line to
shower head
Diverter valve
Diverter
valve handle
Hot
water
supply
line
Cold
water
supply
lineA three-handle tub/shower faucet has individual controls for hot and cold water plus a third handle that operates the diverter valve.
22 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ How to Repair a Compression Diverter Valve 1 Escutcheon 2 3 Bonnet nut
Diverter handleRemove the diverter valve handle Remove bonnet nut with an adjustable Unscrew the stem assembly, using with a screwdriver. Unscrew or pry off wrench or channel-type pliers. a deep-set ratchet wrench. If necessary, the escutcheon. chip away any mortar surrounding the bonnet nut.
Retaining nut4 5 6
Threaded
spindleStem washer
Stem
screwRemove brass stem screw. Replace Unscrew the threaded spindle from Clean sediment and lime buildup stem washer with an exact duplicate. If the retaining nut. from nut, using a small wire brush stem screw is worn, replace it. dipped in vinegar. Coat all parts with heatproof grease, and reassemble diverter valve.
Fixing Tub & Shower Faucets ■ 23■ Fixing Two-handle Tub & Shower Faucets T wo-handle tub and shower faucets are either cartridge or compression design. They may be repaired following the directions on pages 23 and 27. If the diverter fails to work properly, replace the tub spout. Tub spouts are inexpensive and easy to replace. Remember to turn off the water before beginning Because the valves of two-handle tub and shower any work. faucets may be set inside the wall cavity, a deep-set socket wrench may be required to remove the valve stem. Tools & Materials ▸ Two-handle tub and shower designs have a gate diverter. A gate diverter is a simple mechanism located Screwdriver Deep-set in the tub spout. A gate diverter closes the supply Allen wrench ratchet wrench of water to the tub spout and redirects the flow to Pipe wrench Masking tape or cloth the shower head. Gate diverters seldom need repair. Channel-type pliers Pipe joint compound Occasionally, the lever may break, come loose, or Small cold chisel Replacement faucet refuse to stay in the up position. Ball-peen hammer parts, as needed
Water line to
shower head
Bonnet nut
Valve stem
Diverter lever
Cold water
supply line
Hot water Gate diverter
supply lineA two-handle tub/shower faucet can operate with compression valves, but more often these days they contain cartridges that can be replaced. Unlike a three-handled model, the diverter is a simple gate valve that operated by a lever.
24 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
Tips on Replacing a Tub Spout ▸
Spout
nipple
Allen wrench
Check underneath tub spout for Unscrew faucet spout. Use Spread pipe joint compound
a small access slot. The slot indicates a pipe wrench, or insert a large on threads of spout nipple before
the spout is held in place with an screwdriver or hammer handle into replacing spout.
Allen screw. Remove the screw, using the spout opening and turn spout
an Allen wrench. Spout will slide off. counterclockwise.■ How to Remove a Deep-set Faucet Valve Escutcheon 1 Masking tape 2 3
Stem
nipple
Bonnet nutRemove handle and unscrew Chip away any mortar surrounding Unscrew the bonnet nut with a the escutcheon with channel-type the bonnet nut, using a ball-peen deep-set ratchet wrench. Remove pliers. Pad the jaws of the pliers with hammer and a small cold chisel. the bonnet nut and stem from the masking tape to prevent scratching faucet body. the escutcheon.
Fixing Tub & Shower Faucets ■ 25■ Fixing Single-handle Tub & Shower Faucets A single-handle tub and shower faucet has one valve that controls both water flow and temperature. Single-handle faucets may be ball-type, cartridge, or lever may break, come loose, or refuse to stay in the up position. If the diverter fails to work properly, replace the tub spout. disc designs. If a single-handle control valve leaks or does not function properly, disassemble the faucet, clean the valve, and replace any worn parts. Use the repair techniques described on page 12 for ball-type, or Tools & Materials ▸ page 13 for ceramic disc. Repairing a single-handle cartridge faucet is shown on the opposite page. Screwdriver Replacement faucet Direction of the water flow to either the tub spout Adjustable wrench parts, as needed or the showerhead is controlled by a gate diverter. Channel-type pliers Gate diverters seldom need repair. Occasionally, the
Water supply line to Built-in shutoff valves
showerhead
Control
valve
Hot water
supply line
Cold water
supply line Escutcheon
Gate diverterA single-handle tub/shower faucet is the simplest type to operate and to maintain. The handle controls the mixing ratio of both hot and cold water, and the diverter is a simple gate valve.
26 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ How to Repair a Single-handle Cartridge Tub & Shower Faucet Handle 1 2 Built-in shutoff valves 3 Bonnet nut
EscutcheonUse a screwdriver to remove the Turn off water supply at the built-in Unscrew and remove the retaining ring handle and escutcheon. shutoff valves or the main shutoff valve. or bonnet nut, using adjustable wrench.
4 5
Cartridge
O-ringRemove the cartridge assembly by grasping the end of the Flush the valve body with clean water to remove sediment. valve with channel-type pliers and pulling gently. Replace any worn O-rings. Reinstall the cartridge and test the valve. If the faucet fails to work properly, replace the cartridge.
Fixing Tub & Shower Faucets ■ 275. Installing a New Vanity Faucet
O ne-piece faucets, with either one or two handles, are the most popular fixtures for bathroom installations. Tools & Materials ▸ “Widespread” faucets with separate spout Hacksaw or tin snips Teflon tape and handles are being installed with increasing Channel-type pliers Faucet kit frequency, however. Because the handles are Pliers Pipe joint compound connected to the spout with flex tubes that can Basin wrench Flexible supply tubes be 18” or longer, widespread faucets can be arranged Adjustable wrench Heat-proof grease in many ways. Screwdriver Loctite basin Plumber’s putty
Bathroom sink faucets come in
two basic styles: the widespread with
independent handles and spout (top);
and the single-body, deck-mounted
version (bottom).28 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ Bathroom Faucet & Drain Hookups Handle Pop-up stopper lift rod Index screw caps Spout Handle Spout Handles Aerator
Aerator Tailpiece
Tailpiece
Lift rod
1
⁄ 2" coupling
nuts
Spout
tailpiece Clevis
Faucet
valves
T-fitting Supply
risers Pivot
rod
Flex
tube
Supply Stop
risers valvesWidespread lavatory faucets have valves that are independent from the spout so Single-body lavatory faucets have they can be configured however you choose, provided that your flex tube connectors both valves and the spout permanently are long enough to span the distance. affixed to the faucet body. They do not offer flexibility in configurations, but they are very simple to install.
Stopper Flange Surface of
sink basin
Hollow
channel for
Pop-up overflow water
stopper
body
Underside
of sink Clevis
Lock strap
nut
Pivot ball
Nylon gasket
washer
Pivot-ball
and rod
Clevis
strap
Retaining
Drain nut Spring clip
tailpiece on the pivot
rodThe pop-up stopper fits into the drain opening so the The linkage that connects the pop-up stopper to the pop-up stopper will close tightly against the drain flange when the handle fits into a male-threaded port in the drain tailpiece. pop-up handle is lifted up. Occasionally the linkage will require adjustment or replacement.
Installing a New Vanity Faucet ■ 29■ How to Install a Widespread Faucet Spout shank 1 Spout shank 2 Sink deck Plumber’s putty
Retainer/
spacer
Mounting nut
Sink deck seen in
cutaway for clarityInsert the shank of the faucet spout through one of the In addition to mounting nuts, many spout valves for holes in the sink deck (usually the center hole but you can widespread faucets have an open-retainer fitting that goes offset it in one of the end holes if you prefer). If the faucet is between the underside of the deck and the mounting nut. not equipped with seals or O-rings for the spout and handles, Others have only a mounting nut. In either case, tighten the pack plumber’s putty on the undersides before inserting the mounting nut with pliers or a basin wrench to secure the spout valves into the deck. Note: If you are installing the widespread valve. You may need a helper to keep the spout centered and faucet in a new sink deck, drill three holes of the size facing forward. suggested by the faucet manufacturer.
3 Helping hand 4
Temporary
clip
Plumber’s
putty
Mounting Valve
ring
Valve
(cold supply) Spout
shankMount the valves to the deck using whichever method the From below, thread the mounting nuts that secure the valves manufacturer specifies (it varies quite a bit). In the model seen to the sink deck. Make sure the cold water valve (usually has here, a mounting ring is positioned over the deck hole (with a blue cartridge inside) is in the right-side hole (from the front) plumber’s putty seal) and the valve is inserted from below. and the hot water valve (red cartridge) is in the left hole. Install A clip snaps onto the valve from above to hold it in place both valves. temporarily (you’ll want a helper for this).
30 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
5 6
Water
outlet Water
outlet T-fitting
(cold)
(hot)
Water inlet
(spout)Once you’ve started the nut on the threaded valve shank, Attach the flexible supply tubes (supplied with the faucet) secure the valve with a basin wrench, squeezing the lugs to the water outlets on the valves. Some twist onto the outlets, where the valve fits against the deck. Use an adjustable but others (like the ones above) click into place. The supply wrench to finish tightening the lock nut onto the valve. The hoses meet in a T-fitting that is attached to the water inlet on valves should be oriented so the water outlets are aimed at the spout. the inlet on the spout shank.
7 8 Special hex wrench (supplied with faucet) Spout
Teflon Twist-on
tape fitting
Water supply risers
Spout shankAttach flexible braided-metal supply risers to the water Attach the spout. The model shown here comes with a stop valves and then attach the tubes to the inlet port on each special hex wrench that is threaded through the hole in the valve (usually with Teflon tape and a twist-on fitting at the valve spout where the lift rod for the pop-up drain will be located. end of the supply riser). Once the spout is seated cleanly on the spout shank, you tighten the hex wrench to secure the spout. Different faucets will use other methods to secure the spout to the shank.
(continued)
Installing a New Vanity Faucet ■ 31
9 Lift rod 10
Lift rod
Clevis screw
Clevis
screw
housing Clevis strap
Clevis
strapIf your sink did not have a pop-up stopper, you’ll need Attach the clevis strap to the pivot rod that enters the to replace the sink drain tailpiece with a pop-up stopper body pop-up drain body, and adjust the position of the strap so (often supplied with the faucet). Insert the lift rod through the it raises and lowers properly when the lift rod is pulled hole in the back of the spout and, from below, thread the pivot up. Tighten the clevis screw at this point. It’s hard to fit a rod through the housing for the clevis screw. screwdriver in here, so you may need to use a wrench or pliers.
11 12Attach the faucet handles to the valves using whichever Turn on the water supply and test the faucet. Remove method is required by the faucet manufacturer. Most faucets the faucet aerator so any debris in the lines can clear are designed with registration methods to ensure that the the spout. handles are symmetrical and oriented in an ergonomic way once you secure them to the valves.
32 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
Variation: How to Install a Single-body Faucet ▸ Most faucets come with a plastic or 1 foam gasket to seal the bottom of the faucet to the sink deck. These gaskets will not always form a watertight seal. If you want to ensure no splash water gets below the sink, discard the seal and press a ring of plumber’s putty into the sealant groove built into the underside of the faucet body.
Clevis screw2 3 Coupling nut Pivot rod Flexible sink supply riser
Insert the faucet tailpieces through the holes in the Slide the lift rod of the new faucet into its hole sink. From below, thread washers and mounting nuts over behind the spout. Thread it into the clevis past the clevis the tailpieces, then tighten the mounting nuts with a basin screw. Push the pivot rod all the way down so the stopper wrench until snug. Put a dab of pipe joint compound on is open. With the lift rod also all the way down, tighten the the threads of the stop valves and thread the metal nuts clevis to the lift rod. of the flexible supply risers to these. Wrench tighten about a half-turn past hand tight. Overtightening these nuts will strip the threads. Now tighten the coupling nuts to the faucet tailpieces with a basin wrench.
4 5
Grease the fluted valve stems with heatproof grease, Unscrew the aerator from the end of the spout. Turn then put the handles in place. Put a drop of Loctite on the hot and cold water taps on full. Turn the water back on each handle screw before tightening it on. (This will keep at the stop valves and flush out the faucet for a couple of your handles from coming loose.) Cover each handle minutes before turning off the water at the faucet. Check screw with the appropriate index cap—Hot or Cold. the riser connections for drips. Tighten a compression nut only until the drip stops.
Installing a New Vanity Faucet ■ 33■ How to Install a Pop-up Drain 1 Lock nuts Pop-up drain tailpiece 2 Clevis Bottom of sink
Spring Stopper
clip body
Cap
Trap
arm
Ball-and-pivot rod
Trap
J-bendPut a basin under the trap to catch water. Loosen the Unscrew the cap holding the ball-and-pivot rod in the nuts at the outlet and inlet to the trap J-bend by hand or with pop-up body and withdraw the ball. Compress the spring clip channel-type pliers and remove the bend. The trap will slide off on the clevis and withdraw the pivot rod from the clevis. the pop-up body tailpiece when the nuts are loose. Keep track of washers and nuts and their up/down orientation by leaving them on the tubes.
3 4
Wrap tape
in clockwise
direction
Stopper
body
Stopper
FlangeRemove the pop-up stopper. Then, from below, remove Clean the drain opening above and below, and then thread the lock nut on the stopper body. If needed, keep the flange the locknut all the way down the new pop-up body, followed from turning by inserting a large screwdriver in the drain from by the flat washer and the rubber gasket (beveled side up). the top. Thrust the stopper body up through the hole to free Wrap three layers of Teflon tape clockwise onto the top of the the flange from the basin, and then remove the flange and the threaded body. Make a 1⁄2”-dia. snake from plumber’s putty, stopper body. form it into a ring, and stick the ring underneath the drain flange.
34 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
5 6
Stopper in drain
Plumber’s puttyFrom below, face the pivot rod opening directly back toward Drop the pop-up stopper into the drain hole so the hole the middle of the faucet and pull the body straight down to at the bottom of its post is closest to the back of the sink. Put seat the flange. Thread the locknut/washer assembly up under the beveled nylon washer into the opening in the back of the the sink, then fully tighten the locknut with channel-type pliers. pop-up body with the bevel facing back. Do not twist the flange in the process, as this can break the putty seal. Clean off the squeezeout of plumber’s putty from around the flange.
Clevis7 Adjust so 8 clevis is vertical
Clevis screwPut the cap behind the ball on the pivot rod as shown. Loosen the clevis screw holding the clevis to the lift rod. Sandwich a hole in the clevis with the spring clip and thread Push the pivot rod all the way down (which fully opens the the long end of the pivot rod through the clip and clevis. Put pop-up stopper). With the lift rod also all the way down, tighten the ball end of the pivot rod into the pop-up body opening and the clevis screw to the rod. If the clevis runs into the top of the into the hole in the the stopper stem. Screw the cap on to the trap, cut it short with your hacksaw or tin snips. Reassemble pop-up body over the ball. the J-bend trap.
Installing a New Vanity Faucet ■ 356. Installing a Pedestal Sink
P edestal sinks move in and out of popularity more frequently than other sink types, but even during times they aren’t particularly trendy they retain fairly benefit is that they conceal plumbing some homeowners would prefer not to see. Pedestal sinks are mounted in two ways. Most stable demand. You’ll find them most frequently of the more inexpensive ones you’ll find at home in small half baths, where their little footprint stores are hung in the manner of wall-hung sinks. The makes them an efficient choice. Designers are also pedestal is actually installed after the sink is hung and discovering the appeal of tandem pedestal sinks of its purpose is only decorative. But other pedestal sinks late, where the smaller profiles allow for his-and-hers (typically on the higher end of the design scale) have sinks that don’t dominate visually. structurally important pedestals that do most or all of The primary drawback to pedestal sinks is that the bearing for the sink. they don’t offer any storage. Their chief practical
Pedestal sinks are available in a variety of styles and are a perfect fit for small half baths. They keep plumbing hidden, lending a neat, contained look to the bathroom.
36 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ How to Install a Pedestal Sink 1 2
Wall surface
show cut away
for clarityInstall 2 × 4 blocking between the wall studs, behind the Set the basin and pedestal in position and brace it with 2 × planned sink location. Cover the wall with water-resistant drywall. 4s. Outline the top of the basin on the wall, and mark the base Waste and supply lines may need to be moved, depending of the pedestal on the floor. Mark reference points on the wall on the sink. and floor through the mounting holes found on the back of the sink and the bottom of the pedestal.
3 4 5
Set aside the basin and pedestal. Attach the faucet, then set the sink Hook up the drain and supply fittings. Drill pilot holes in the wall and floor at on the pedestal. Align the holes in the Caulk between the back of the sink and the reference points, then reposition back of the sink with the pilot holes the wall when installation is finished. the pedestal. Anchor the pedestal to drilled in the wall, then drive lag screws the floor with lag screws. and washers into the wall brace using a ratchet wrench. Do not overtighten the screws.
Installing a Pedestal Sink ■ 377. Installing a Wall-Hung Vanity
T hink of a wall-mounted sink or vanity cabinet and you’re likely to conjure up images of public restrooms where these conveniences are installed to the presentation; others look like standard vanities, just without legs. Install wall-hung sinks and vanities by attaching them securely to studs or wood blocking. improve access for floor cleaning. However, wall-hung sinks and vanities made for home use are very different from the commercial installations. Tools & Materials ▸ Often boasting high design, beautiful modern vanities and sinks come in a variety of styles and Studfinder Level materials, including wood, metal, and glass. Some Drill Vanity attach with decorative wall brackets that are part of
Today’s wall-hung sinks are stylish and attractive, but they require mounting into studs or added blocking to keep them secure.
38 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ How to Install a Wall-Hung Vanity Base 1 2
Remove the existing sink or fixture and inspect the wall Hold the sink or cabinet in the installation area and framing. Also determine if plumbing supply and waste lines will check to see if the studs align with the sink or sink bracket need to be moved to accommodate the dimensions of the new mounting holes. If they do, skip to step 3. If the studs do not fixture. Locate the studs in the sink location with a stud finder. align, remove the wallboard behind the mounting area. Install 2 × 6 blocking between studs at the locations of the mounting screws. Replace and repair wallboard.
3 4
BlockingMark the locations of the mounting holes on the wall using Drill pilot holes at the marks. Have a helper hold the vanity a template or by supporting the sink or vanity against the wall in place while you drive the mounting screws. Hook up the with a temporary brace (made here from scrap 2 × 4s) and plumbing (see pages 28 to 33). marking through the mounting holes.
Installing a Wall-hung Vanity ■ 398. Installing a Vessel Sink
T he vessel sink harkens back to the days of washstands and washbowls. Whether it’s round, square, or oval, shallow or deep, the vessel sink offers splashing, spouts should directly flow to the center of the vessel, not down the side. Make sure your faucet is compatible with your vessel choice. Look for a great opportunity for creativity and proudly displays centerset or single-handle model if you’ll be custom its style. Vessel sinks are a perfect choice for a powder drilling the countertop—you only need to drill one room, where they will have high visibility. faucet hole. Most vessel sinks can be installed on any flat surface—from a granite countertop to a wall-mounted vanity to an antique dresser. Some sinks are designed Tools & Materials ▸ to contact the mounting surface only at the drain flange. Others are made to be partially embedded in Jigsaw Drill the surface. Take care to follow the manufacturer’s Trowel Vanity or countertop instructions for cutting holes for sinks and faucets. Pliers Vessel sink A beautiful vessel sink demands an equally Wrench Pop-up drain attractive faucet. Select a tall spout mounted on the Caulk gun and caulk P-trap and drain kit countertop or vanity top or a wall-mounted spout to Sponge Faucet accommodate the height of the vessel. To minimize Phillips screwdriver
Vessel sinks are available in countless styles and materials, shapes, and sizes. Their one commonality is that they all need to be installed on a flat surface.
40 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ Vessel Sink Options
This glass vessel sink embedded in a “floating” glass The natural stone vessel sink blends elegantly into the countertop is a stunning contrast to the strong and attractive stone countertop and is enhanced by the sleek faucet and wood frame anchoring it to the wall. round mirror.
The stone vessel sink is complemented by the wall-hung Vitreous china with a glazed enamel finish is an economical faucet. The rich wood vanity on which it’s perched adds and durable choice for a vessel sink (although it is less durable warmth to the room. than stone). Because of the flexibility of both the material and the glaze, the design options are virtually unlimited with vitreous china.
Installing a Vessel Sink ■ 41■ How to Install a Vessel Sink 1 2
Mounting
stud
Inlet hosesSecure the vanity cabinet or other countertop that you’ll be Begin hooking up the faucet. Insert the brass mounting using to mount the vessel sink. stud into the threaded hole in the faucet base with the slotted end facing out. Hand tighten, and then use a screwdriver to tighten another half turn. Insert the inlet hoses into the faucet body and hand tighten. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten another half turn. Do not overtighten.
3 4
Stud O-ring
Riser ring
Metal plate
Stud nut GasketPlace the riser ring on top of the O-ring over the faucet To install the sink and pop-up drain, first place the cutout in the countertop. From underneath, slide the rubber small metal ring between two O-rings and place over the gasket and the metal plate over the mounting stud. Thread the drain cutout. mounting stud nut onto the mounting stud and hand tighten. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten another half turn.
42 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
5 6
Place the vessel bowl on top of the O-rings. In this Put the small rubber gasket over the drain hole in the installation, the vessel is not bonded to the countertop. vessel. From the top, push the pop-up assembly through the drain hole.
7 8
Slip nut
Gasket
Tailpiece
Drain arm
Mounting nut
Escutcheon
DrumFrom underneath, push the large rubber gasket onto the Install the drum trap. Loosen the rings on the top and threaded portion of the pop-up assembly. Thread the nut onto outlet of the drum trap. Slide the drum trap top hole over the the pop-up assembly and tighten. Use an adjustable wrench tailpiece. Slide the drain arm into the side outlet, with the flat or basin wrench to tighten an additional half turn. Thread the side of the rubber gasket facing away from the trap. Insert the tailpiece onto the pop-up assembly. drain arm into the wall outlet. Hand tighten the rings.
Installing a Vessel Sink ■ 439. Installing an Integral Vanity Top
M ost bathroom countertops installed today are integral (one-piece) sink-countertop units made from cultured marble or other solid materials, like solid surfacing. Integral sink-countertops are convenient, and many are inexpensive, but style and color options are limited. Some remodelers and designers still prefer the distinctive look of a custom-built countertop with a self-rimming sink basin, which gives you a much greater selection of styles and colors. Installing a self-rimming sink is very simple.
Tools & Materials ▸
Pencil Cardboard
Scissors Masking tape
Carpenter’s level Plumber’s putty
Screwdriver Lag screws
Channel-type pliers Tub and tile caulk
Ratchet wrench Pipe dope Integral sink-countertops are made in standard sizes to fit
Basin wrench common vanity widths. Because the sink and countertop are
cast from the same material, integral sink-countertops do not
leak, and do not require extensive caulking and sealing.■ How to Install a Vanity Cabinet Sealing 1 2 gasket 3
Locknut
Pop-up Drain
drain lever tailpiece
Drain flange Tailpiece
extensionSet the sink-countertop unit onto Thread the locknut and sealing Place a small amount of pipe dope on sawhorses. Attach the faucet and slip gasket onto the drain tailpiece, then all threads. Apply a layer of tub and tile the drain lever through the faucet body. insert the tailpiece into the drain caulk (or adhesive, if specified by the Place a ring of plumber’s putty around opening and screw it onto the drain countertop manufacturer) to the top the drain flange, then insert the flange in flange. Tighten the locknut securely. edges of the cabinet vanity, and to any the drain opening. Attach the tailpiece extension. Insert corner braces. the pop-up stopper linkage.
44 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
4 5
Center the sink-countertop unit over the vanity so the Cabinets with corner braces: Secure the countertop to overhang is equal on both sides and the backsplash of the the cabinet by driving a mounting screw through each corner countertop is flush with the wall. Press the countertop evenly brace and up into the countertop. Note: Cultured marble into the caulk. and other hard countertops require predrilling and a plastic screw sleeve.
6 Supply tube 7 Drain tailpiece
Drain
arm
Drain
stub-out
Slip nuts
P-trapAttach the drain arm to the drain stub-out in the wall, using Seal the gap between the backsplash and the wall with tub a slip nut. Attach one end of the P-trap to the drain arm, and and tile caulk. the other to the tailpiece of the sink drain, using slip nuts. Connect supply tubes to the faucet tailpieces.
Installing an Integral Vanity Top ■ 4510. Replacing a Toilet
Y ou can replace a poorly functioning or inefficient toilet with a high-efficiency, high-quality new toilet in just a single afternoon. All toilets made good flush performance, and reliability. With a little research, you should be able to purchase and install a high-functioning economical gravity-flush toilet that since 1996 have been required to use 1.6 gallons will serve you well for years to come. or less per flush, which has been a huge challenge for the industry. Today, the most evolved 1.6-gallon toilets have wide passages behind the bowl and wide (3”) flush valve openings—features that facilitate Tools & Materials ▸ short, powerful flushes. This means fewer second flushes and fewer clogged toilets. These problems Adjustable wrench Supply tube were common complaints of the first generation of Bucket and sponge Teflon tape 1.6-gallon toilets and continue to beleaguer inferior Channel-type pliers Toilet seat bolts models today. See what toilets are available at your Hacksaw Toilet seat local home center in your price range, then go Penetrating oil Towels online and see what other consumers’ experiences Pliers Utility knife with those models have been. New toilets often go Putty knife Wax ring through a “de-bugging” stage when problems with Rubber gloves without flange leaks and malfunctioning parts are more common. Screwdriver Wax ring with flange Your criteria should include ease of installation,
Replacing a toilet is simple, and
the latest generation of 1.6-gallon
water-saving toilets has overcome the
performance problems of earlier models.46 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ Choosing a New Toilet Toilets have changed in recent years. There’s a toilet to Dual-flush systems feature two flush buttons on the fit every style. You can even buy a square or stainless top of the tank, allowing you to select either an 8-ounce steel toilet, among many other new options. The new flush for liquids or a 1.6-gallon flush for solids. designs are efficient, durable, and less susceptible to clogs. A toilet’s style is partly affected by the way it’s built. You have a number of options from which to choose: Two-piece toilets have a separate water tank and bowl. One-piece toilets have a tank and bowl made of one seamless unit. Elongated bowls are roughly 2” longer than regular bowls. Elevated toilets have higher seats, generally 18”, rather than the standard 15”. You have a choice of two basic types of flush mechanisms: gravity- and pressure-assisted. Gravity-assisted toilets allow water to rush down from an elevated tank into the toilet bowl. Federal law mandates that new toilets consume no more than 1.6 gallons of water per flush, less than half Toilets are available in a variety of styles and colors to the volume used by older styles. suit almost any decor. Two-piece toilets are generally cheaper Pressure-assisted toilets rely on either compressed and come in a great assortment of styles and colors. Many air or water pumps to boost flushing power. high end models have a matching bidet available.
Gravity-assisted toilets are now designed with taller tanks Pressure-assisted toilets are more expensive than standard and steeper bowl walls to increase the effects of gravity. toilets, but they can reduce your water usage significantly. The flush mechanism of a pressure-assisted toilet boosts the flushing power by using either compressed air or water pumps.
Replacing a Toilet ■ 47■ How to Remove a Toilet 1 2 Coupling nut
Stop
valveRemove the old supply tube. First, turn off the water at Grip each tank bolt nut with a box wrench or pliers and the stop valve. Flush the toilet, holding the handle down for a loosen it as you stabilize each tank bolt from inside the tank long flush, and sponge out the tank. Unthread the coupling nut with a large slotted screwdriver. If the nuts are stuck, apply for the water supply below the tank using channel-type pliers. penetrating oil to the nut and let it sit before trying to remove Use a wet/dry vac to clear any remaining water out of the tank them again. You may also cut the tank bolts between the and bowl. tank and the bowl with an open-ended hacksaw. Remove and discard the tank.
3 Tip ▸
Cut down
through
nut with
hacksaw
Removing an old wax ring is one of the more
disgusting jobs you’ll encounter in the plumbing
universe (the one you see here is actually in relatively
good condition). Work a stiff putty knife underneathRemove the nuts that hold the bowl to the floor. the plastic flange of the ring (if you can) and start First, pry off the bolt covers with a screwdriver. Use a socket scraping. In many cases the wax ring will come off in wrench, locking pliers, or your channel-type pliers to loosen chunks. Discard each chunk right away—they stick the nuts on the tank bolts. Apply penetrating oil and let it sit if to everything. If you’re left with a lot of residue, scrub the nuts are stuck, then take them off. As a last resort, cut the with mineral spirits. Once clean, stuff a rag in a bag in bolts off with a hacksaw by first cutting down through one side the drain opening to block sewer gas. of the nut. Tilt the toilet bowl over and remove it.
48 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ How to Install a Toilet 1 Tip ▸
If you will be replacing your toilet flange or ifClean and inspect the old closet flange. Look for breaks your existing flange can be unscrewed and moved, or wear. Also inspect the flooring around the flange. If either orient the new flange so the slots are parallel to the the flange or floor is worn or damaged, repair the damage. wall. This allows you to insert bolts under the slotted Use a rag and mineral spirits to completely remove residue areas, which are much stronger than the areas at the from the old wax ring. Place a rag-in-a-bag into the opening ends of the curved grooves. to block odors.
2 3
Insert new tank bolts (don’t reuse old ones) into the Remove the wax ring and apply it to the underside of the openings in the closet flange. Make sure the heads of the bolts bowl, around the horn. Remove the protective covering. Do not are oriented to catch the maximum amount of flange material. touch the wax ring. It is very sticky. Remove the rag-in-a-bag.
(continued)
Replacing a Toilet ■ 49
4 5 Spud
nut
Spud
washerLower the bowl onto the flange, taking care not to disturb Attach the toilet tank. Some tanks come with a flush valve the wax ring. The holes in the bowl base should align perfectly and a fill valve preinstalled. For models that do not have this, with the tank bolts. Add a washer and tighten a nut on each insert the flush valve through the tank opening and tighten bolt. Hand tighten each nut and then use channel-type pliers to a spud nut over the threaded end of the valve. Place a foam further tighten the nuts. Alternate back and forth between nuts spud washer on top of the spud nut. until the bowl is secure. Do not overtighten.
6 7
Intermediate nut goes
between tank and bowl
Threaded
fill valve
shankAdjust the fill valve as directed by the manufacturer to set With the tank lying on its back, thread a rubber washer the correct tank water level height and install the valve inside onto each tank bolt and insert it into the bolt holes from inside the tank. Hand tighten the nylon lock nut that secures the the tank. Then, thread a brass washer and hex nut onto the valve to the tank (inset photo) and then tighten it further with tank bolts from below and tighten them to a quarter turn past channel-type pliers. hand tight. Do not overtighten.
50 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
8 9
Intermediate nut
Position the tank on the bowl, spud washer on opening, You may stabilize the bolts with a large slotted screwdriver bolts through bolt holes. Put a rubber washer, followed by a from inside the tank, but tighten the nuts, not the bolts. You brass washer and a wing nut, on each bolt and tighten these may press down a little on a side, the front, or the rear of up evenly. the tank to level it as you tighten the nuts by hand. Do not overtighten and crack the tank. The tank should be level and stable when you’re done. Do not overtighten.
10 11
Hook up the water supply by connecting the supply tube to Attach the toilet seat by threading the plastic or brass bolts the threaded fill valve with the coupling nut provided. Turn on provided with the seat through the openings on the back of the water and test for leaks. Do not overtighten. the rim and attaching nuts.
Replacing a Toilet ■ 5111. Installing Sliding Tub Doors
C urtains on your bathtub shower are a hassle. If you forget to tuck them inside the tub, water flows freely onto your bathroom floor. If you forget to slide them can be installed on ceramic tile walls or through a fiberglass tub surround.
closed, mildew sets up shop in the folds. And every time you brush against them they stick to your skin. Shower Tools & Materials ▸ curtains certainly don’t add much elegance or charm to a dream bath. Neither does a deteriorated door. Clean Measuring tape Masonry bit up the look of your bathroom, and even give it an extra Pencil for tile wall touch of elegance, with a new sliding tub door. Hacksaw Phillips screwdriver When shopping for a sliding tub door, you have a Miter box Caulk gun choice of framed or frameless. A framed door is edged Level Masking tape in metal. The metal framing is typically aluminum Drill Silicone sealant but is available in many finishes, including those that Center punch & remover resemble gold, brass, or chrome. Glass options are also Razor blade Tub door kit plentiful. You can choose between frosted or pebbled Marker Masking tape glass, clear, mirrored, tinted, or patterned glass. Doors
A sliding tub door framed in aluminum gives the room a sleek, clean look and is just one of the available options.
52 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ How to Install Sliding Tub Doors 1 2
Remove the existing door and inspect the walls. Use a Measure the distance between the finished walls razor blade to cut sealant from tile and metal surfaces. Do not along the top of the tub ledge. Refer to the manufacturer’s use a razor blade on fiberglass surfaces. Remove remaining instructions for figuring the track dimensions. For the product sealant by scraping or pulling. Use a silicone sealant remover seen here, 3⁄16” is subtracted from the measurement to to remove all residue. Remove shower curtain rods, if present. calculate the track dimensions. Check the walls and tub ledge for plumb and level.
3 4
Using a hacksaw and a miter box, carefully cut the track Place a wall channel against the wall with the longer to the proper dimension. Center the track on the bathtub ledge side out and slide into place over the track so they overlap. with the taller side out and so the gaps are even at each end. Use a level to check the channel for plumb, and then mark Tape into position with masking tape. the locations of the mounting holes on the wall with a marker. Repeat for the other wall channel. Remove the track. (continued)
Installing Sliding Tub Doors ■ 53
5 6Drill mounting holes for the wall channel at the marked Apply a bead of silicone sealant along the joint between locations. In ceramic tile, nick the surface of the tile with a the tub and the wall at the ends of the track. Apply a minimum center punch, use a 1⁄4” masonry bit to drill the hole, and then 1 ⁄4” bead of sealant along the outside leg of the track underside. insert the included wall anchors. For fiberglass surrounds, use a 1⁄8” drill bit; wall anchors are not necessary.
7 8
Header
Wall
channelPosition the track on the tub ledge and against the wall. Cut and install the header. At a location above the tops Attach the wall channels using the provided screws. Do not of the wall channels, measure the distance between the use caulk on the wall channels at this time. walls. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for calculating the header length. For the door seen here, the length is the distance between the walls minus 1⁄16”. Measure the header and carefully cut it to length using a hacksaw and a miter box. Slide the header down on top of the wall channels until seated.
54 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
9 10
RollerMount the rollers in the roller mounting holes. To begin, use Carefully lift the inner panel by the sides and place the the second-from-the-top roller mounting holes. Follow the rollers on the inner roller track. Roll the door toward the manufacturer’s instructions for spacer or washer placement shower end of the tub. The edge of the panel should touch and orientation. both rubber bumpers. If it doesn’t, remove the door and move the rollers to different holes. Drive the screws by hand to prevent overtightening.
11 12
Lift the outer panel by the sides with the towel bar facing Apply a bead of clear silicone sealant to the inside seam out from the tub. Place the outer rollers over the outer roller of the wall and wall channel at both ends and to the U-shaped track. Slide the door to the end opposite the shower end of the joint of the track and wall channels. Smooth the sealant with a tub. If the door does not contact both bumpers, remove the fingertip dipped in water. door and move the rollers to different mounting holes.
Installing Sliding Tub Doors ■ 5512. Installing a 3-Piece Tub Surround
N o one wants bathroom fixtures that are aging or yellowed from years of use. A shiny new tub surround can add sparkle and freshness to your and in good condition, but it must be sanded and primed. All surfaces must be primed with a water-based primer.
dream bath. Tub surrounds come in many different styles, Tools & Materials ▸ materials, and price ranges. Choose the features you want and measure your existing bathtub surround Jigsaw Adhesive for sizing. Surrounds typically come in three or five Hole saw Screwdriver pieces. A three-panel surround is being installed here, Drill Adjustable wrench but the process is similar for five-panel systems. Measuring tape Pry bar Surface preparation is important for good glue Level Hammer adhesion. Plastic tiles and wallpaper must be removed Caulking gun 3-piece tub surround and textured plaster must be sanded smooth. Surrounds Primer can be installed over ceramic tile that is well attached
Three-piece tub surrounds are
inexpensive and come in many colors
and styles. The typical unit has two end
panels and a back panel that overlap in
the corners to form a watertight seal. They
are formed from fiberglass, PVC, acrylic,
or proprietary resin-based polymers.
Five piece versions are also available
and typically have more features such as
integral soap shelves and even cabinets.56 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ How to Install a 3-Piece Tub Surround 1 2
Remove the old plumbing fixtures and wallcoverings in Replace the wallcoverings with appropriate materials, the tub area. In some cases you can attach surround panels to such as water and mold-resistant wallboard or cementboard old tileboard or even tile, but it is generally best to remove the (for ceramic tile installations). Make sure the new wall surfaces wallcoverings down to the studs if you can, so you may inspect are smooth and flat. Some surround kit manufacturers for leaks or damage. recommend that you apply a coat of primer to sheet goods such as greenboard to create a better bonding surface for the panel adhesive.
3 Test-fitting Tip ▸
Ensure a perfect fit by taping the surround panels
to the walls in the tub area. Make sure the tops areTest-fit the panels before you start; the tub may have level when the overlap seams are aligned and that settled unevenly or the walls may be out of plumb. Check you have a consistent 1⁄8” gap between the panel the manufacturer’s directions for distinguishing right and left bottoms and the tub flange. Mark the panels for panels. Place a panel in position on the tub ledge. Use a level cutting if necessary and, once the panels have been across the top of the panel to determine if it is level. Create removed, make any adjustments to the walls that a vertical reference line to mark the edge of the panel on the are needed. plumbing end.
(continued)
Installing a 3-Piece Tub Surround ■ 57
4 5Some kits are created to fit a range of bathtub Measure and mark the location of the faucets, spout, dimensions. After performing the test fit, check the fitting and shower outlets. Measure in from the vertical reference instructions to see if you need to trim any of the pieces. Follow line (made in step 3) and up from the top of the tub ledge. the manufacturer’s instructions for cutting. Here, we had to Re-measure for accuracy, as any cuts to the surround are cut the corner panels because the instructions advise not to final. Place the panel face-up on a sheet of plywood. Mark the overlap the back or side panel over the corner panels by more location of the holes. Cut the holes 1⁄2” larger than the pipe than 3”. Cut panels using a jigsaw and a fine-tooth blade that diameter. If your faucet has a recessed trim plate (escutcheon), is appropriate for cutting fiberglass or acrylic tileboard. The cut cut the hole to fit the recess. Using a hole saw or a jigsaw, cut panels should be overlapped by panels with factory edges. out the plumbing outlets.
6 7Install the plumbing end panel, test-fitting first. In this Remove the protective backing from the tape. Carefully surround, the end panels are installed first. Apply adhesive to lift the panel by the edges and place against the corner and the back of the plumbing panel. Circle the plumbing outlet top of the tub ledge. Press firmly from top to bottom in the holes 1” from the edge. Follow the manufacturer’s application corner, then throughout the panel. pat t e rn. D o not ap pl y a d he s iv e c lo s er th a n 1” to the double-sided tape or the bottom edge of the panel.
58 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
8 9
Test-fit the opposite end panel and make any necessary Apply adhesive to the back panel following the adjustments. Apply the adhesive, remove the protective manufacturer’s instructions. Maintain a 1” space between backing from the tape, and put in place. Apply pressure adhesive tape and the bottom of the panel. Remove protective to the corner first from top to bottom, and then apply backing from the tape. Lift the panel by the edges and carefully pressure throughout. center between the two end panels. When positioned, firmly press in place from top to bottom.
10 11
Apply caulk to the bottom and top edges of the panels Apply silicone caulk to escutcheons or trim plates and and at panel joints. Dip your fingertip in water and use it to reinstall them. Allow a minimum of 24 hours for caulk and smooth the caulk to a uniform bead. adhesive to dry thoroughly before using the shower or tub.
Installing a 3-Piece Tub Surround ■ 5913. Unclogging a Toilet
T he toilet is clogged and has overflowed. Have patience. Now is the time for considered action. A second flush is a tempting but unnecessary If the tub, sink, and toilet all back up at once, the branch drainline that serves all the bathroom fixtures is probably blocked and your best recourse is to call a gamble. First, do damage control. Mop up the water drain clearing service. if there’s been a spill. Next, consider the nature of the clog. Is it entirely “natural” or might a foreign object be contributing to the congestion? Push a natural blockage down the drain with a plunger. A Tools & Materials ▸ foreign object should be removed, if possible, with a closet auger. Pushing anything more durable than Towels Plunger with foldout toilet paper into the sewer may create a more serious Closet auger skirt (force cup) blockage in your drain and waste system.
A blockage in the toilet bowl leaves
flush water from the tank nowhere to go
but on the floor.60 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
Drain Clearers ▸
The home repair marketplace is filled with gadgets
and gimmicks, as well as well-established products,
that are intended to clear drains of all types. Some are
caustic chemicals, some are natural enzymes, others
are more mechanical in nature. Some help, some are
worthless, some can even make the problem worse.
Nevertheless, if you are the type of homeowner who is
enamored with new products and the latest solutions,
you may enjoy testing out new drain cleaners as
they become available. In this photo, for example,
you’ll see a relatively new product that injects blasts
of compressed CO2 directly into your toilet, sink,
or tub drain to dislodge clogs. It does not cause
any chemicals to enter the waste stream, and the
manufacturers claim the CO2 blast is very gentle and
won’t damage pipes. As with any new product, use it
with caution. But if a plunger or a snake isn’t working,The trap is the most common catching spot for toilet clogs, it could save you the cost of a house call. Once the clog forms, flushing the toilet cannot generate enough water power to clear the trap, so flush water backs up. Traps on modern 1.6-gallon toilets have been redesigned to larger diameters and are less prone to clogs than the first generation of 1.6-gallon toilets.
Plunger Force cupNot all plungers were created equal. The standard plunger (left) is simply an inverted rubber cup and is used to plunge sinks, tubs, and showers. The flanged plunger, also called a force cup, is designed to get down into the trap of a toilet drain. You can fold the flange up into the flanged plunger cup and use it as a standard plunger.
Unclogging a Toilet ■ 61■ How to Plunge a Clogged Toilet 1 Tip ▸ A flanged plunger (force cup) fits into the mouth of the toilet trap and creates a tight seal so you can build up enough pressure in front of the plunger to dislodge the blockage and send it on its way.
Plunging is the easiest way to remove “natural” blockages. Take time to lay towels around the base of the toilet and remove other objects to a safe, dry location, since plunging may result in splashing. Often, allowing a very full toilet to sit for twenty or thirty minutes will permit some of the water to drain to a less precarious level.
2 3There should be enough water in the bowl to completely If you force enough water out of the bowl that you are cover the plunger. Fold out the skirt from inside the plunger to unable to create suction with the plunger, put a controlled form a better seal with the opening at the base of the bowl. amount of water in the bowl by lifting up on the flush valve in Pump the plunger vigorously half-a-dozen times, take a rest, the tank. Resume plunging. When you think the drain is clear, and then repeat. Try this for 10 to 15 cycles. you can try a controlled flush, with your hand ready to close the flush valve should the water threaten to spill out of the bowl. Once the blockage has cleared, dump a five-gallon pail of water into the toilet to blast away any residual debris.
62 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ How to Clear Clogs with a Closet Auger 1 Tip ▸ A closet auger is a semirigid cable housed in a tube. The tube has a bend at the end so it can be snaked through a toilet trap (without scratching it) to Protective snag blockages. rubber boot
Place the business end of the auger firmly in the bottom of the toilet bowl with the auger tip fully withdrawn. A rubber sleeve will protect the porcelain at the bottom bend of the auger. The tip will be facing back and up, which is the direction the toilet trap takes.
2 3
Rotate the handle on the auger housing clockwise as you Fully retract the auger until you have recovered the object. push down on the rod, advancing the rotating auger tip up into This can be frustrating at times, but it is still a much easier task the back part of the trap. You may work the cable backward than the alternative—to remove the toilet and go fishing. and forward as needed, but keep the rubber boot of the auger firmly in place in the bowl. When you feel resistance, indicating you‘ve snagged the object, continue rotating the auger counterclockwise as you withdraw the cable and the object.
Unclogging a Toilet ■ 6314. Replacing a Toilet Flange
I f your toilet rocks it will eventually leak. The rocking means that the bolts are no longer holding the toilet securely to the floor. If you have tightened the bolts and it still rocks, it is possible that a bolt has broken a piece of the flange off and is no longer able to hold. Rocking might also be because an ongoing leak has weakened the floor and it is now uneven. Whatever the reason, a rocking toilet needs to be fixed. If your flange is connected to cast iron piping, use a repair flange. This has a rubber compression ring that will seal the new flange to the cast iron pipe.
Tools & Materials ▸
Drill #10 stainless steel
Wrench flathead wood
Internal pipe cutter screws Use a flange repair kit for a quick fix to a broken flange. The
Solvent-glue Marker new flange piece from the kit is simply screwed to the floor
after it has been oriented correctly over the broken flange.Toilets that rock often only need to have the nuts on the closet bolts tightened. But if you need to tighten the bolts on an ongoing basis, you very likely have a problem with the closet flange.
64 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ How to Replace a PVC Closet Flange 1 2
New pipe
Repair CouplingBegin by removing the toilet and wax ring. Cut the pipe just If your flange is attached to a closet bend you will need below the bottom of the flange using an internal pipe cutter to open up the floor around the toilet to get at the horizontal (inset, available at plumbing supply stores). Remove the flange. pipe connecting the bend to the stack to make the repair. If it is connected to a length of vertical plastic pipe, use a repair coupling and a short length of pipe to bring the pipe back up to floor level. Glue the new pipe into the repair coupling first and allow it to set. Clean the old pipe thoroughly before gluing.
3 4
Cut the replacement pipe flush with the floor. Dry-fit the Prime and solvent-glue the pipe and flange, inserting the new flange into the pipe. Turn the flange until the side cut-out flange slightly off the marks and twisting it to proper alignment. screw slots are parallel to the wall. (Do not use the curved Secure the flange to the floor with #10 stainless steel flathead keyhole slots, as they are not as strong.) Draw lines to mark wood screws. the location of the slots on the floor.
Replacing a Toilet Flange ■ 6515. Unclogging Tub & Shower Drains
T ub or shower not draining? First, make sure it’s only the tub or shower. If your sink is plugged, too, it may be a coincidence or it may be that a common branch line is plugged. A sure sign of this is when water drains from the sink into the tub. This could require the help of a drain cleaning service, or a drum trap that services both the sink and tub needs cleaning. If the toilet also can’t flush (or worse, water comes into the tub when you flush the toilet), then the common drain to all your bathroom fixtures is plugged. Call a drain cleaning service. If you suspect the problem is only with your tub or shower, then read on. We’ll show you how to clear drainlines and clean and adjust two types of tub stopper mechanisms. Adjusting the mechanism can also help with the opposite problem: a tub that drains when you’re trying to take a bath.
Tools & Materials ▸
Phillips Screwdriver Toothbrush
Plunger Needlenose pliers
Scrub brush Dishwashing brush As with bathroom sinks, tub and shower drain pipes
White Vinager Heatproof grease may become clogged with soap and hair. The drain stopping
mechanisms can also require cleaning and adjustment.
Maintenance Tip ▸
Like bathroom sinks, tubs and showers face an
ongoing onslaught from soap and hair. When
paired, this pesky combination is a sure-fire
source of clogs. The soap scum coagulates as
it is washed down the drain and binds the hair
together in a mass that grows larger with every
shower or bath. To nip these clogs in the bud,
simply pour boiling hot clean water down the
drain from time to time to melt the soapy mass
and wash the binder away.66 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
Using Hand Augers ▸ On shower drains, feed the head of the auger in through the drain opening after removing the strainer. Crank the handle of the auger to extend the cable and the auger head down into the trap and, if the clog is farther downline, toward the branch drain. When clearing any drain, it is always better to Sloped floor retrieve the clog than to push it farther downline.
Drain openingFloor
Trap armTrap Branch drain line
On combination tub/showers, it’s
generally easiest to insert the auger
through the overflow opening after
Overflow drain
opening removing the coverplate and lifting out
the drain linkage. Crank the handle of
the auger to extend the cable and the
auger head down into the trap and, if
the clog is farther downline, toward the
branch drain. When clearing any drain, it
is always better to retrieve the clog than
to push it farther downline.
Drain line
Unclogging Tub & Shower Drains ■ 67■ How to Fix a Plunger-Type Drain Coverplate 1 Linkage-adjusting bracket
Trip lever
Overflow drain
Linkage
Plunger A plunger-type tub drain has a
simple grate over the drain opening and
a behind-the-scenes plunger stopper.
Remove the screws on the overflow
Drain opening
coverplate with a slotted or Phillips
screwdriver. Pull the coverplate, linkage,
and plunger from the overflow opening.
Tub shoe
2 3Clean hair and soap off the plunger with a scrub brush. Adjust the plunger. If your tub isn’t holding water with the Mineral buildup is best tackled with white vinegar and a plunger down, it’s possible the plunger is hanging too high to toothbrush or a small wire brush. fully block water from the tub shoe. Loosen the locknut with needlenose pliers, then screw the rod down about 1⁄8”. Tighten the locknut down. If your tub drains poorly, the plunger may be set too low. Loosen the locknut and screw the rod in an 1⁄8” before retightening the locknut.
68 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ How to Fix a Pop-up Drain Coverplate 1 Trip lever
Overflow drain
Linkage
Rocker arm
Raise the trip lever to the open
position. Pull the stopper and rocker
Drain opening arm assembly from the drain. Clean off
soap and hair with a dishwashing brush
in a basin of hot water. Clean off mineral
deposits with a toothbrush or small wire
Drain stopper
brush and white vinegar.2 3 Linkage adjusting bracket
LocknutRemove the screws from the cover plate. Pull the trip Adjust the pop-up stopper mechanism by first loosening lever and the linkage from the overflow opening. Clean off the locknut on the lift rod. If the stopper doesn’t close all the soap and hair with a brush in a basin of hot water. Remove way, shorten the linkage by screwing the rod 1⁄8” farther into mineral buildup with white vinegar and a wire brush. Lubricate the linkage-adjusting bracket. If the stopper doesn’t open wide moving parts of the linkage and rocker arm mechanism with enough, extend the linkage by unscrewing the rod 1⁄8”. Tighten heatproof grease. the locknut before replacing the mechanism and testing your adjustment.
Unclogging Tub & Shower Drains ■ 6916. Unclogging Sink Drains
E very sink has a drain trap and a fixture drain line. Sink clogs usually are caused by a buildup of soap and hair in the trap or fixture drain line. Remove clogs by using a plunger, disconnecting and cleaning the trap, or using a hand auger. Many sinks hold water with a mechanical plug called a pop-up stopper. If the sink will not hold standing water, or if water in the sink drains too slowly, the pop-up stopper must be cleaned and adjusted.
Tools & Materials ▸
Plunger Rag
Channel-type pliers Bucket
Clogged lavatory sinks can be cleared with a plunger (not
Small wire brush Replacement gaskets to be confused with a flanged force-cup). Remove the pop-up
Screwdriver Teflon tape drain plug and strainer first, and plug the overflow hole by
Flashlight stuffing a wet rag into it, allowing you to create air pressure
with the plunger.■ How to Clear a Sink Trap 1 2 Slip nuts
Fixture drain line
Trap bendPlace bucket under trap to catch water and debris. Loosen Dump out debris. Clean trap bend with a small wire brush. slip nuts on trap bend with channel-type pliers. Unscrew nuts Inspect slip nut washers for wear, and replace if necessary. by hand and slide away from connections. Pull off trap bend. Reinstall trap bend and tighten slip nuts.
70 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ How to Clear a Kitchen Sink Drainline from 1 dishwasher 2
Plunging a kitchen sink is not difficult, but you need to If there is a second basin, have a helper hold a basket create an uninterrupted pressure lock between the plunger strainer plug in its drain or put a large pot or bucket full of and the clog. If you have a dishwasher, the drain tube needs water on top of it. Unfold the skirt within the plunger and place to be clamped shut and sealed off at the disposer or drainline. this in the drain of the sink you are plunging. There should be The pads on the clamp should be large enough to flatten the enough water in the sink to cover the plunger head. Plunge tube across its full diameter (or you can clamp the tube ends rhythmically for six repetitions with increasing vigor, pulling up between small boards). hard on the last repitition. Repeat this sequence until the clog is removed. Flush out a cleared clog with plenty of hot water.
■ How to Use a Hand Auger at the Trap Arm 1 2
If plunging doesn’t work, remove the trap and clean it out If you suspect the clog is downstream of the trap, (see previous page). With the trap off, see if water flows freely remove the trap arm from the fitting at the wall. Look in the from both sinks (if you have two). Sometimes clogs will lodge fixture drain with a flashlight. If you see water, that means in the T-fitting or one of the waste pipes feeding it. These may the fixture drain is plugged. Clear it with a hand auger (see be pulled out manually or cleared with a bottlebrush or wire. page 63). When reassembling the trap, apply Teflon tape clockwise to the male threads of metal waste pieces. Tighten with your channel-type pliers. Plastic pieces need no tape and should be hand tightened only.
Unclogging Sink Drains ■ 7117. Clearing Main Drains
I f using a plunger or a hand auger does not clear a clog in a fixture drain line, it means that the blockage may be in a branch line, the main waste-vent stack, or surface, but it can be identified by its two openings. Use a hand auger to clean a house trap. If the auger meets solid resistance in the sewer line, the sewer service line. retrieve the cable and inspect the bit. Fine, hair-like First, use an auger to clear the branch drain line roots on the bit indicate the line is clogged with tree closest to any stopped-up fixtures. Branch drain lines roots. Dirt on the bit indicates a collapsed line. may be serviced through the cleanout fittings located Use a power auger to clear sewer service lines at the end of the branch. Because waste water may be that are clogged with tree roots. Power augers (page backed up in the drain lines, always open a cleanout 74 to 75) are available at rental centers. However, with caution. Place a bucket and rags under the a power auger is a large, heavy piece of equipment. opening to catch waste water. Never position yourself Before renting, consider the cost of rental and the directly under a cleanout opening while unscrewing level of your do-it-yourself skills versus the price of the plug or cover. a professional sewer cleaning service. If you rent If using an auger on the branch line does not solve a power auger, ask the rental dealer for complete the problem, then the clog may be located in a main instructions on how to operate the equipment. waste-vent stack. To clear the stack, run an auger Always consult a professional sewer cleaning cable down through the roof vent. Make sure that the service if you suspect a collapsed line. cable of your auger is long enough to reach down the entire length of the stack. If it is not, you may want to rent or borrow another auger. Always use extreme Tools & Materials ▸ caution when working on a ladder or on a roof. Adjustable wrench Penetrating oil If no clog is present in the main stack, the problem or pipe wrench Cleanout plug may be located in the sewer service line. Locate the Hand auger (if needed) main cleanout, usually a Y-shaped fitting at the bottom Cold chisel Pipe joint of the main waste-vent stack. Remove the plug and Ball-peen hammer compound push the cable of a hand auger into the opening. Bucket Electrical drum Some sewer service lines in older homes have Ladder auger a house trap. The house trap is a U-shaped fitting Phillips screwdriver Gloves located at the point where the sewer line exits the Rags Teflon Tape house. Most of the fitting will be beneath the floor
Main waste-vent stack Fixture drain line
Cleanout fitting
and plugs
Branch drain line
Sanitary Y-fittingClear a branch drain line by locating the cleanout fitting at the end of the line. Place a bucket underneath the opening to catch waste water, then slowly unscrew the cleanout plug with an adjustable wrench. Clear clogs in the branch drain line with a hand auger.
72 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ How to Clear a Branch Drain Line 1 2 Street side
House sideClear the main waste and vent stack Clear the house trap in a sewer service line using a hand auger. Slowly remove by running the cable of a hand auger only the plug on the “street side” of the trap. If water seeps out the opening as the down through the roof vent. Always use plug is removed, the clog is in the sewer line beyond the trap. If no water seeps extreme caution while working on a out, auger the trap. If no clog is present in the trap, replace the street-side plug and ladder or roof. remove the house-side plug. Use the auger to clear clogs located between the house trap and main stack.
■ How to Replace a Main Drain Cleanout Plug 1 2 Cleanout plug
Remove the cleanout plug, using a large wrench. If the plug Remove stubborn plugs by placing the cutting edge of a does not turn out, apply penetrating oil around the edge of the cold chisel on the edge of the plug. Strike the chisel with a plug, wait 10 minutes, and try again. Place rags and a bucket ball-peen hammer to move plug counterclockwise. If the plug under fitting opening to catch any water that may be backed does not turn out, break it into pieces with the chisel and up in the line. hammer. Remove all broken pieces.
Wing nut3
Cleanout fitting
Metal platesReplace the old plug with a new plug. Apply pipe joint Alternate: Replace the old plug with an expandable rubber compound to the threads of the replacement plug and screw plug. A wing nut squeezes the rubber core between two metal into the cleanout fitting. plates. The rubber bulges slightly to create a watertight seal.
Clearing Main Drains ■ 73■ How to Power-Auger a Floor Drain 1 Power Auger Large Lines ▸ If you choose to auger a larger line, you may find yourself opening a cleanout with 10 or 20 vertical feet of waste water behind it. Be careful. The cap may unexpectedly burst open when it’s loose enough, spewing noxious waste water uncontrollably over anything in its path, including you! Here are some precautions: Whenever possible, remove a trap or cleanout close to the top of the backed-up water level. Run your auger through this. Make sure the auger and its electric connections will not get wet should waste Remove the cover from the floor drain using a slotted or water spew forcefully from the cleanout opening. Phillips screwdriver. On one wall of the drain bowl you’ll see a Use the spear tool on the power auger first, cleanout plug. Remove the cleanout plug from the drain bowl to let the water drain out through a smaller hole with your largest channel-type pliers. This cleanout allows you before widening it with a larger cutting tool. If you are to bypass the trap. If it’s stuck, apply penetrating oil to the threads and let it sit a half an hour before trying to free it again. augering through a 3 or 4” cleanout, use three bits: If the wrench won’t free it, rent a large pipe wrench from your the spear, a small cutter, and then a larger cutter to home center or hardware store. You can also auger through do the best job. the trap if you have to.
2 3Rent an electric drum auger with at least 50 feet of 1⁄2-inch Wear close-fitting clothing and contain long hair. Place the cable. The rental company should provide a properly sized, power auger machine in a dry location within 3 ft. of the drain grounded extension cord, heavy leather gloves, and eye opening. Plug the tool into a grounded, GFI-protected circuit. protection. The auger should come with a spear tool, cutter Wear eye protection and gloves. Position the footswitch where tool, and possibly a spring tool suitable for a 2-inch drainline. it is easy to actuate. Make sure the FOR/REV switch is in the Attach the spearhead first (with the machine unplugged). Forward position (inset photo). Hand feed the cleaning tool and some cable into the drain or cleanout before turning the machine on.
74 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
4 5
Stationary power augers (as opposed to pistol-grip types) With both gloved hands on the cable, depress the foot are controlled by a foot pedal called an actuator so you can actuator to start the machine. Gradually push the rotating turn the power on and off hands-free. cable into the drain opening. If the rotation slows or you cannot feed more cable into the drain, pull back on the cable before pushing it forward again. Don’t force it. The cable needs to be rotating whenever the motor is running or it can kink and buckle. If the cleaning tool becomes stuck, reverse it, back the tool off the obstruction, and switch back to Forward.
6 7
Gradually work through the clog by pulling back on the After clearing the drain pipe, run the auger through the cable whenever the machine starts to bog down and push it trap. Finish cleaning the auger. Wrap Teflon tape clockwise onto forward again when it gains new momentum. Never let the the plug threads and replace the plug. Run hot water through a cable stop turning when the motor is running. When you have hose from the laundry sink or use a bucket to flush remaining broken through the clog or snagged an object, withdraw the debris through the trap and down the line. cable from the line. Manually pull the cable from the drain line while continuing to run the drum Forward. When the cleaning tool is close to the drain opening, release the foot actuator and let the cable come to a stop before feeding the last 2 or 3 ft. of cable into the drum by hand.
Clearing Main Drains ■ 7518. Replacing a Kitchen Sink
M ost drop-in, self-rimming kitchen sinks are easily installed. Drop-in sinks for do-it-yourself installation If you are replacing a sink, but not the countertop, make sure the new sink is the same size or larger. All old silicone caulk residue must be removed with acetone or are made from cast iron coated with enamel, denatured alcohol, or else the new caulk will not stick. stainless steel, enameled steel, acrylic, fiberglass, or resin composites. Because cast-iron sinks are heavy, their weight holds them in place and they Tools & Materials ▸ require no mounting hardware. Except for the heavy lifting, they are easy to install. Stainless Caulk gun Plumber’s putty steel and enameled-steel sinks weigh less than Spud wrench or silicone caulk cast-iron and most require mounting brackets on Screwdriver Mounting clips the underside of the countertop. Some acrylic and Sink Jigsaw resin sinks rely on silicone caulk to hold Sink frame Pen or pencil them in place.
Shopping Tips ▸
• When purchasing a sink, you also need to buy strainer bodies and baskets, sink clips, and a drain trap kit.
• Look for basin dividers that are lower than the sink rim—this reduces splashing.
• Drain holes in the back or to the side make for more usable space under the sink.
• When choosing a sink, make sure the predrilled openings will fit your faucet.Drop-in sinks, also known as self-rimming sinks, have a wide sink flange that extends beyond the edges of the sink cutout. They also have a wide back flange to which the faucet is mounted directly.
76 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ How to Install a Self-Rimming Sink 1 2 3
Invert the sink and trace around the Drill a starter hole and cut out the Attach as much of the plumbing as edges as a reference for making the sink opening with a jigsaw. Cut right makes sense to install prior to setting sink cutout cutting lines, which should up to the line. Because the sink flange the sink into the opening. Having access be parallel to the outlines, but about 1” fits over the edges of the cutout, the to the underside of the flange is a inside of them to create a 1” ledge. If opening doesn’t need to be perfect, but great help when it comes to attaching your sink comes with a template for as always you should try to do a nice, the faucet body, sprayer, and strainer, the cutout, use it. neat job. in particular.
4 5 6
Apply a bead of silicone caulk Place the sink in the opening. Try For sinks with mounting clips, around the edges of the sink opening. to get the sink centered right away tighten the clips from below using a The sink flange most likely is not flat, so so you don’t need to move it around screwdriver or wrench (depending on try and apply the caulk in the area that and disturb the caulk, which can break the type of clip your sink has). There will make contact with the flange. the seal. If you are installing a heavy should be at least three clips on every cast-iron sink, it’s best to leave the side. Don’t overtighten the clips—this strainers off so you can grab onto the can cause the sink flange to flatten or sink at the drain openings. become warped.
Replacing a Kitchen Sink ■ 7719. Replacing a Kitchen Faucet
M ost new kitchen faucets feature single-handle control levers and washerless designs that rarely require maintenance. Additional features include all the fittings needed for attaching a food disposer or dishwasher to the sink drain system.
brushed metallic finishes, detachable spray nozzles, or even push-button controls. Tools & Materials ▸ Connect the faucet to hot and cold water lines with easy-to-install flexible supply tubes made from vinyl Adjustable wrench Scouring pad or braided steel. If your faucet has a separate sprayer, Basin wrench or Scouring cleaner install the sprayer first. Pull the sprayer hose through channel-type pliers Plumber’s putty the sink opening and attach to the faucet body before Hacksaw Flexible vinyl or installing the faucet. Faucet braided steel Where local codes allow, use plastic tubes Putty knife supply tubes for drain hookups. A wide selection of extensions Screwdriver Drain components and angle fittings lets you easily plumb any sink Silicone caulk Penetrating oil configuration. Manufacturers offer kits that contain
Modern kitchen faucets tend to be single-handle models, often with useful features such as a pull-out head that functions as a sprayer. This Price Pfister™ model comes with an optional mounting plate that conceals sink holes when mounted on a predrilled sink flange.
78 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ Choosing a New Kitchen Faucet You’ll find many options when choosing a new kitchen Another difference is in the faucet body. Some faucets faucet. The best place to start the process is with your have the taps and the spout mounted onto a faucet sink. In the past, most faucets were mounted directly to body so the spacing between the tailpieces is preset. the sink deck, which had three or four predrilled holes to Others, called widespread faucets, have independent accommodate the faucets, spout, sprayer, and perhaps a taps and spouts that can be configured however you liquid soap dispenser or an air gap for your dishwasher. please, as long as the tubes connecting the taps to the Modern kitchen faucets don’t always conform to this spouts reach. This type is best if you are installing the setup, with many of them designed to be installed in a faucet in the countertop (a common way to go about single hole in the sink deck or in the countertop. If you it with new countertops such as solid surface, quartz, plan to keep your old sink, look for a faucet that won’t or granite). leave empty holes in the deck. Generally, it’s best to In the past, kitchen faucets almost always had a replace like for like, but unfilled stainless sink holes can remote pull-out sprayer. The sprayer was attached to be filled with snap-in plugs or a soap dispenser. the faucet body with a hose directly below the mixing The two most basic kitchen faucet categories are valve. While this type of sprayer is still fairly common, single-handle and two-handle. Single-handle models many faucets today have an integral pull-out spout are much more popular now because you can adjust that is very convenient and less prone to failure than the water temperature easily with just one hand. the old-style sprayers.
A single-handle, high arc faucet with traditional remote Single-handle faucets may require four holes, as does this sprayer. The mounting plate is decorative and optional. model with its side sprayer and matching soap/lotion dispenser.
Two-handled faucets are less common, but remain A single-handle faucet with pull-out spray head requires popular choices for traditional kitchens. The gooseneck spout only one hole in your sink deck or countertop—a real benefit also has a certain elegance, but avoid this type if you have a if your sink is not predrilled or if it is an undermount model. shallow sink that’s less than 8” deep.
Replacing a Kitchen Faucet ■ 79■ How to Remove an Old Faucet 1 2
Mounting
Sprayer hose nutTo remove the old faucet, start by clearing out the cabinet Spray the mounting nuts that hold the faucet or faucet under the sink and laying down towels. Turn off the hot and handles (on the underside of the sink deck) with penetrating cold stop valves and open the faucet to make sure the water oil for easier removal. Let the oil soak in for a few minutes. is off. Detach the sprayer hose from the faucet sprayer nipple and unscrew the retaining nut that secures the sprayer base to the sink deck. Pull the sprayer hose out through the sink deck opening.
3 4Unhook the supply tubes at the stop valves. Don’t Pull the faucet body from the sink. Remove the sprayer reuse old chrome supply tubes. If the stops are missing or base if you wish to replace it. Scrape off old putty or caulk with unworkable, replace them. Then remove the coupling nuts and a putty knife and clean off the sink with a scouring pad and the mounting nuts on the tailpieces of the faucet with a basin an acidic scouring cleaner like Bar Keeper’s Friend®. Tip: Scour wrench or channel-type pliers. stainless steel with a back and forth motion to avoid leaving unsightly circular markings.
80 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ How to Install a Kitchen Sink Faucet 1 2
Shown from back of sink cabinet for clarity
Shut off hot and cold water at the faucet stop valves. Set the base plate onto the sink flange so it is correctly Assemble the parts of the deck plate that cover the outer aligned with the predrilled holes in the flange. From below, mounting holes in your sink deck (unless you are installing tighten the wing nuts that secure the deck plate to the a two-handle faucet, or mounting the faucet directly to the sink deck. countertop, as in an undermount sink situation). Add a ring of plumber’s putty in the groove on the underside of the base plate.
3 4
Pullout
hose
Mounting
nut Retainer
screws
WasherRetract the pullout hose by drawing it out through the Slip the mounting nut and washer over the free ends of faucet body until the fitting at the end of the hose is flush with the supply tubes and pullout hose, then thread the nut onto the bottom of the threaded faucet shank. Insert the shank and the threaded faucet shank. Hand tighten. Tighten the retainer the supply tubes down through the top of the deck plate. screws with a screwdriver to secure the faucet.
(continued)
Replacing a Kitchen Faucet ■ 81
5 6 7
Water
supply
tubeSlide the hose weight onto the Connect the end of the pullout tube Hook up the water supply tubes to pullout hose (the weight helps keep to the outlet port on the faucet body the faucet inlets. Make sure the lines are the hose from tangling and it makes it using a quick connector fitting. long enough to reach the supply risers easier to retract). without stretching or kinking.
8 9Connect the supply lines to the supply risers at the Attach the spray head to the end of the pullout hose and stop valves. Make sure to get the hot lines and cold lines turn the fitting to secure the connection. Turn on water supply attached correctly. and test. Tip: Remove the aerator in the tip of the spray head and run hot and cold water to flush out any debris.
82 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
Variation: One-Piece Faucet with Sprayer ▸
1 2 3 Friction washer
Tailpiece
Supply
tube
Coupling
nut
Mounting
nutApply a thick bead of silicone Slip a friction washer onto each Connect supply tubes to the caulk to the underside of the faucet tailpiece and then hand tighten a faucet tailpieces. Make sure the base and then insert the tailpieces mounting nut. Tighten the mounting tubes you buy are long enough of the faucet through the appropriate nut with channel-type pliers or a to reach the stop valves and that holes in the sink deck. Press down basin wrench. Wipe up any silicone the coupling nuts will fit the tubes lightly on the faucet to set it in the squeeze-out on the sink deck with a and tailpieces. caulk. wet rag before it sets up.
4 5 6 Plumber’s putty
Friction
washer
Mounting
nut
Sprayer
tailpieceApply a ¼” bead of plumber’s putty From beneath, slip the friction Screw the sprayer hose onto the or silicone caulk to the underside washer over the sprayer tailpiece hose nipple on the bottom of the of the sprayer base. With the base and then screw the mounting nut faucet. Hand tighten and then give threaded onto the sprayer hose, onto the tailpiece. Tighten with the nut one quarter turn with channel- insert the tailpiece of the sprayer channel-type pliers or a basin type pliers or a basin wrench. Turn through the opening in the sink deck. wrench. Wipe any excess putty or on the water supply at the shutoff, caulk on the sink deck from around remove the aerator, and flush debris the base. from the faucet.
Replacing a Kitchen Faucet ■ 8320. Connecting a Kitchen Drain
K itchen sink drains don’t last forever, but on the plus side, they’re very easy and inexpensive to replace. The most common models today are made trap, often with a baffle in the T-fitting where the outlet line joins with the tailpiece from the other bowl. If you are installing a disposer, consider installing of PVC plastic pipe and fittings held together with individual traps to eliminate the baffle, which reduces slip fittings. In addition to making the installation the flow capacity by half. fairly forgiving, the slip fitting makes the drain easy to disassemble if you get a clog. The project shown here is a bit unusual by today’s standards, in that it does Tools & Materials ▸ not include either a dishwasher drain or a garbage disposer. But you will see how to add each of these Flat screwdriver Teflon tape drain systems to your kitchen sink in the following Spud wrench Washers two chapters. Trap arm Waste-T fitting You can buy the parts for the kitchen drain Mineral spirits S- or P-trap individually (you can usually get better quality Cloth materials this way) or in a kit (see photo, next page). Strainer kit Because most kitchen sinks have two bowls, the kits Plumber’s putty include parts for plumbing both drains into a shared
A
B
E
C
F
G
DKitchen sink drains include a strainer basket (A), tailpiece (B), continuous waste T (C), P- or S-trap (D), outlet drain lines (E), trap arm (F), and wall stubout (G).
84 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
Drain Kits ▸ Kits for installing a new sink drain include all the pipes, slip fittings, and washers you’ll need to get from the sink tailpieces (most kits are equipped for a double bowl kitchen sink) to the trap arm that enters the wall or floor. For wall trap arms, you’ll need a kit with a P-trap. For floor drains. you’ll need an S-trap. Both drains normally Chromed brass P-trap are plumbed to share a trap. Chromed brass or PVC with slip fittings let you adjust the drain more easily and pull it apart and then reassemble if there is a clog. Kitchen sink drains and traps should be 1½” o.d. pipe—the 1¼” pipe is for lavatories and doesn’t have enough capacity for a kitchen sink.
P-trap
(for wall drain) S-trap
(for floor drain)Tips for Choosing Drains ▸
Wall thickness varies in sink drain Slip joints are formed by tightening Use a spud wrench to tighten pipes. The thinner plastic material is a male-threaded slip nut over a the strainer body against the cheaper and more difficult to obtain female-threaded fitting, trapping and underside of the sink bowl. Normally, a good seal with the thicker, more compressing a beveled nylon washer the strainer flange has a layer of expensive tubing. The thin product to seal the joint. plumber’s putty to seal beneath it is best reserved for lavatory drains, above the sink drain, and a pair of which are far less demanding. washers (one rubber, one fibrous) to seal below.
Connecting a Kitchen Drain ■ 85■ How to Connect a Kitchen Sink Drain 1 2
If you are replacing the sink strainer body, remove Apply plumber’s putty around the perimeter of the drain the old one and clean the top and bottom of the sink deck opening and seat the strainer assembly into it. Add washers around the drain opening with mineral spirits. Attach the drain below as directed and tighten the strainer locknut with a spud tailpiece to the threaded outlet of the strainer body, inserting wrench (see photo, previous page) or by striking the mounting a nonbeveled washer between the parts if your strainer kits nubs at the top of the body with a flat screwdriver. include one. Lubricate the threads or apply Teflon tape so you can get a good, snug fit.
3 Drain tail pieces
4
Drain stub-cut
Waste-T
Trap arm
EscutcheonAttach the trap arm to the male-threaded drain stubout in Attach a waste-T-fitting to the drain tailpiece, orienting the wall, using a slip nut and beveled compression washer. The the opening in the fitting side so it will accept the outlet drain outlet for the trap arm should point downward. Note: The trap line from the other sink bowl. If the waste-T is higher than the arm must be higher on the wall than any of the horizontal lines top of the trap arm, remove it and trim the drain tailpiece. in the set-up, including lines to dishwasher, disposer, or the outlet line to the second sink bowl.
86 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
5 Outer drain pipe 6 Outer drain pipe
Waste-TWaste-T Trap arm
Trap arm
P-trapJoint the short end of the outlet drain pipe to the Attach the long leg of a P-trap to the waste-T and attach tailpiece for the other sink bowl and then attach the end of the the shorter leg to the downward-facing opening of the trap long run to the opening in the waste-T. The outlet tube should arm. Adjust as necessary and test all joints to make sure they extend into the T 1⁄2” or so—make sure it does not extend in far are still tight, and then test the system. enough to block water flow from above.
Variation: Drain in Floor ▸
Waste-T
Waste-T
Bottom
Top of S-trap Top of S-trap
Outlet
pipe
Floor drain stubout
Drain
If your drain stubout comes up out of the floor Attach the other half of the S-trap to the stubout
instead of the wall, you’ll need an S-trap to tie into it with a slip fitting. This should result in the new fitting
instead of a P-trap. Attach one half of the S-trap to the facing downward. Join the halves of the S-trap together
threaded bottom of the waste-T. with a slip nut, trimming the unthreaded end if necessary.
Connecting a Kitchen Drain ■ 8721. Patching Burst Pipes
I f a water pipe freezes and breaks, your first priority may be getting it working again—whatever it takes. There are a number of temporary fix products out there, some involving clamps and sleeves, others, epoxy putties and fiberglass tape. These repairs usually can get you through a weekend okay. We also show you how to apply full slip repair couplings, a more permanent fix. Whatever repair approach you take, please, please, please, don’t leave for the store without first determining a) the diameter of your pipe and b) the material of your pipe.
Tools & Materials ▸
Metal file
Repair clamps
Marker
Tubing cutter
Adjustable wrench
Pliers Water supply pipes can burst for many reasons, but the
most common cause is water freezing and expanding inside
the pipe. First turn off the water, then apply a fix.■ How to Patch Pipes with Repair Clamps 1 2 3
Dry off the damaged area of the pipe Position the two halves of the Insert bolts through the bolt holes and file down any sharp edges with a repair clamp so the rubber sleeve is in the repair clamp and thread nuts metal file. Place the rubber sleeve that sandwiched between the repair clamps. onto the ends. Tighten the bolts until comes with the repair clamp around the pressure from the clamp seals the the ruptured area. The seam should be damages area. Note: This is a temporary on the opposite side of the pipe from repair only. Replace the damaged pipe the damage. as soon as possible.
88 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ How to Install a Repair Coupling 1 2 Full slip repair coupling
For a longer lasting (not permanent) repair, use a Cut out the damaged pipe section with a tubing cutter. compression-fit, full-slip repair coupling. These come with Both wheels of the cutter should rest evenly on the pipe. parts to make a compression union—you can also buy a slip Rotate the cutter around the pipe. The line it cuts should make coupling that’s just a piece of copper tubing with an inside a perfect ring, not a spiral. Tighten the cutter a little with each diameter equal to the outside diameter of the tubing being rotation until the pipe snaps. Repeat at your other mark. repaired, but these require soldering. Turn off water at the nearest control valve. Mark the boundaries of the pipe section to be replaced.
3 4 Supply pipe
Compression Compression ring
nut
Repair coupling
Compression
union
Supply pipeDeburr the insides of the pipes with the triangular blade Slip the compression nuts and rings supplied with the on the tubing cutter. repair coupling onto the cut ends of the pipe being repaired and then slip the repair coupling over one end. Slide the coupling farther onto the pipe and then slide it back the other way so it fits over the other pipe section and the repair area is centered inside the coupling. Tighten each compression nut with pliers while stabilizing the coupling with an adjustable wrench.
Patching Burst Pipes ■ 8922. Installing Shutoff Valves
W orn-out shutoff valves or supply tubes can cause water to leak underneath a sink or other fixture. First, try tightening the fittings with an adjustable Tools & Materials ▸ wrench. If this does not fix the leak, replace the Hacksaw Felt-tipped pen shutoff valves and supply tubes. Tubing cutter Shutoff valves Shutoff valves are available in several fitting types. Adjustable wrench Supply tubes For copper pipes, valves with compression-type fittings Tubing bender Pipe joint compound are easiest to install. For plastic pipes, use grip-type valves. For galvanized iron pipes, use valves with female threads. Older plumbing systems often were installed without fixture shutoff valves. When repairing or replacing plumbing fixtures, you may want to install shutoff valves if they are not already present.
Chromed
brass PB
plastic
Braided
CPVC steel
plastic
Chromed
copper
Vinyl
meshShutoff valves allow you to shut off the water to an individual Supply tubes are used to connect water pipes to faucets, fixture so it can be repaired. They can be made from durable toilets, and other fixtures. They come in 12”, 20”, and 30” chromed brass or lightweight plastic. Shutoff valves come in lengths. PB plastic and chromed copper tubes are inexpensive. 1 ⁄2” and 3⁄4” diameters to match common water pipe sizes. Braided steel and vinyl mesh supply tubes are easy to install.
90 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
■ How to Install Shutoff Valves & Supply Tubes 1 2 3 Compression Coupling ring nut
Shutoff
valve
Soldered
joints
Compression Compression
nut ring
Compression
Supply nut
pipesTurn off water at the main shutoff Slide a compression nut and a Apply pipe joint compound to the threads valve. Remove old supply pipes. If compression ring over the copper water of the shutoff valve or compression nut. pipes are soldered copper, cut them off pipe. Threads of the nut should face the Screw the compression nut onto the shutoff just below the soldered joint, using a end of the pipe. valve and tighten with an adjustable wrench. hacksaw or tubing cutter. Make sure the cuts are straight. Unscrew the coupling nuts and discard the old pipes.
4 5 Fixture 6 tailpiece Coupling nut
Sprayer
hose
Compression
nut Supply
tube
Shutoff
valveBend chromed copper supply tube Position the supply tube between Attach the bell-shaped end of the to reach from the tailpiece of the fixture fixture tailpiece and the shutoff valve, supply tube to the fixture tailpiece to the shutoff valve, using a tubing and mark the tube to length. Cut the with a coupling nut, then attach the bender. Bend the tube slowly to avoid supply tube with a tubing cutter. other end to the shutoff valve with kinking the metal. compression ring and nut. Tighten all fittings with an adjustable wrench.
Installing Shutoff Valves ■ 91APPENDIX: Plumbing Tools
M any plumbing projects and repairs can be completed with basic hand tools you probably already own. Adding a few simple plumbing tools will Always care for tools properly. Clean tools after using them, wiping them free of dirt and dust with a soft rag. Prevent rust on metal tools by wiping them prepare you for all the projects in this book. Specialty with a rag dipped in household oil. If a metal tool gets tools, such as a snap cutter or appliance dolly, are wet, dry it immediately, and then wipe it with an oiled available at rental centers. When buying tools, invest rag. Keep toolboxes and cabinets organized. Make sure in quality products. all tools are stored securely.
Caulk gun is designed to
hold tubes of caulk or glue.
A squeeze handle pushes
a steady bead of caulk or
glue out of the nozzle.
Flashlight is an indispensable plumber’s helper
for inspecting pipes and drain openings.
Circuit tester is an important safety device
that allows the user to test for live current in an
electrical outlet or appliance.
Ratchet wrench is used for tightening or loosening
bolts and nuts. It has interchangeable sockets.
Hacksaw is used for cutting metal. Also
can be used for cutting plastic pipes.
Utility knife has
a sharp blade for
Small wire brush has soft brass cutting a wide variety
bristles for cleaning metals without of materials. Useful
damaging surfaces. for trimming ends of
plastic pipes.
Cold chisel is used with a ball-peen
hammer or maul to cut or chip ceramic
tile, mortar, or hardened metals.92 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
Files are used to smooth the edges of metal, wood, or plastic. The round file (top) can be used to remove burrs from the insides of pipes. The flat file is used for all general smoothing tasks.
Ball-peen hammer
is made for striking
metallic tools, like a
cold chisel.Screwdrivers include the two most common types: the slotted (top), and the Phillips. A basin wrench fits into the tight area behind a sink to tighten and loosen the nut on the faucet tailpieces
Adjustable wrench has a movable jaw that
permits the wrench to fit a wide variety of
bolt heads or nuts.Channel-type pliers have a movable handle that allows the jaws to be adjusted for maximum gripping strength. The insides of the jaws are serrated to prevent slipping.
Needlenose pliers have thin jaws
for gripping small objects or for
reaching into confined areas.
Tape measure should have
Putty knife is helpful for scraping putty a retractable steel blade at Level is used for setting
or caulk from appliances and fixtures. least 16 feet long. new appliances and
checking slope.
(continued)
Plumbing Tools ■ 93
Tubing cutter makes straight,
smooth cuts in plastic and copper
pipe. A tubing cutter usually has
a triangular blade for removing
burrs from the insides of pipes.
Closet auger is used to clear toilet
clogs. It is a slender tube with a crank
handle on one end of a flexible auger
cable. A special bend in the tube
allows the auger to be positioned
in the bottom of the toilet bowl. The
bend is usually protected with a
rubber sleeve to prevent scratching
the toilet.
Plastic tubing cutter works
like a gardener’s pruners to cut
flexible plastic pipes quickly.
Spud wrench is specially designed for removing
or tightening large nuts that are 2 to 4" in diameter.
Hooks on the ends of the wrench grab onto the lugs
of large nuts for increased leverage.
Plunger clears drain clogs
with water and air pressure.
The force cup (shown) is
used for toilet bowls. The
flange usually can be folded
up into the cup for use as a
standard plunger.
Blow bag, sometimes called an
Hand auger, sometimes called a snake, is used to
expansion nozzle, is used to clear drains.
clear clogs in drain lines. A long, flexible steel cable is
It attaches to a garden hose and removes
stored in the disk-shaped crank. A pistol-grip handle
clogs with powerful spurts of water. The
allows the user to apply steady pressure on the cable.
blow bag is best used on floor drains.94 ■ HERE’S HOW: PLUMBING
Propane torch (left)
is used for soldering
fittings to copper pipes. 3 ⁄ 8 " power drill
Light the torch quickly
and safely using a
spark lighter (above).
Reciprocating
saw
Power
screwdriver
Power hand tools can make any job faster, easier, and safer. Cordless power tools
offer added convenience. Use a cordless 3⁄8" power drill for virtually any drilling task.
Motorized
drain auger
Power miter box
Right-angle
drill
Appliance dollyPipe wrench has a movable jaw that adjusts to fit a variety of pipe diameters. Snap cutter Pipe wrench is used for tightening and loosening pipes, pipe fittings, and large Rental tools may be needed for large jobs and special situations. A power miter nuts. Two pipe wrenches often are used saw makes fast, accurate cuts in a wide variety of materials, including plastic pipes. together to prevent damage to pipes A motorized drain auger clears tree roots from sewer service lines. Use an appliance and fittings. dolly to move heavy objects like water heaters. A snap cutter is designed to cut tough cast-iron pipes. The right-angle drill is useful for drilling holes in hard-to-reach areas.
Plumbing Tools ■ 95Copyright © 2010 President/CEO: Ken Fund Creative Publishing international, Inc. VP for Sales & Marketing: Kevin Hamric 400 First Avenue North, Suite 300 Minneapolis, Minnesota 55401 Home Improvement Group 1-800-328-0590 www.creativepub.com Publisher: Bryan Trandem All rights reserved Managing Editor: Tracy Stanley Senior Editor: Mark Johanson Printed at R.R. Donnelley Editor: Jennifer Gehlhar 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Creative Director: Michele Lanci-Altomare Senior Design Managers: Jon Simpson, Brad Springer Design Manager: James Kegley
Lead Photographer: Joel SchnellHere’s How Plumbing Created by: The Editors of Creative Publishing international, Inc., in Production Managers: Linda Halls, Laura Hokkanen cooperation with Black & Decker. Black & Decker® is a trademark of The Black & Decker Corporation and is used under license. Page Layout Artist: Danielle Smith
NOTICE TO READERS For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The publisher and Black & Decker cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse of the information provided. The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions included with products, since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required: some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help. Consult your local building department for information on building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to your project.
HERE’S HOW... PLUMBING
E ven the simplest of plumbing repairs can cost you hundreds of dollars
if you call in a plumber. Complete just one of the 22 projects in this
book, and you’ll pay for the cost of the book many times over. Use this
book for a few years, and you may well find yourself with an extra few
thousand dollars to spend, money that would have gone to plumbers.
Plumbers report that 90% of their work involves simple repairs, like
fixing leaks and clogs and replacing fixtures—projects that almost anyone
can do, given a little bit of information and do-it-yourself motivation. This
book provides the information, and after your first successful repair, you’re
sure to have the ambition to do more and more of your own plumbing
work. All the basics are covered here, in clear step-by-step instructions
and color photography.
Among the 22 easy, practical, and money-saving projects in this book,
you’ll learn how to:
• Replace Old Faucets • Fix Running Toilets
• Clear Clogs in Toilets and Sink Drains • Install a Stylish Vessel Sink
• Replace Your Garbage Disposer • Add a Bathtub Shower SurroundCATEGORY: HOME IMPROVEMENT ISBN – 13: 978-1-58923-487-1 ISBN – 10: 1-58923-487-1
$9.99 US
EANUPC
$12.50 CAN
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1-800-328-0590Rather have me do it?
Plumbing problems? I fix leaks, clogs, and install fixtures.