Black & Decker The Book of Home How-To Complete Photo Guide to Home Repair

In a typical residence, the floors in the habitable spaces have a foundation of subfloor (usually 3/4” plywood or oriented strand board) attached to the floor joists. The subfloor is too rough and uneven to serve as a good substrate for floorcoverings, so it is usually covered with a thin (1/4” thick is typical) underlayment of sanded plywood or lauan plywood. The floorcovering is bonded to the underlayment (sheet vinyl or nonceramic tile). Ceramic tile is bonded to an underlayment of cementboard, not plywood. Laminate “floating” floors rest on the underlayment without attachment—the individual flooring strips interlock and typically “float” on a thin, cushiony pad. Traditional hardwood strip flooring is nailed down, usually with an underlayment of rosin paper or, in older homes, tar paper.

Begin by sweeping, vacuuming, then removing dust from the floor using a pad-mop equipped with a wet pad. Scuff marks can be lightly scrubbed by hand using a soft cloth, not an abrasive pad.

Next, test to see if your floors have a paste wax finish. Slightly dampen a piece of extra-fine steel wool and rub the floor in several areas. Paste wax will show up by leaving a gray smudge on the steel wool pad. On a paste-wax floor, clean the floor with cloths moistened with odorless mineral spirits. Let dry completely, then apply a new coating of paste wax, and buff it thoroughly, following manufacturer’s directions.

NOTE: NEVER apply a finish coat over a waxed floor.

Does your floor have an acrylic wax? These newer waxes are best identified by the dirty, patch-like appearance they have as they begin to wear. If your floor has this kind of synthetic wax, use an ammonia-based wax stripper to remove the wax layer, then apply a new layer of acrylic wax. Be aware that acrylic waxes will need frequent reapplication.

Products you may need to remove stains from a wood floor include extra-fine nylon scrubbing pad (A); sharp scraper (B); sandpaper (C); mineral spirits (D); lacquer thinner (E); oxalic acid (F); putty knife (G); chlorine bleach (H); protective gloves (J); eye protection (K); Goof Off stain remover (L); baking soda (M); and vinegar (N).

Once dry, lightly sand the area. All bleaches will raise the wood grain, and before applying a wood stain, the grain must be sanded smooth.

Apply a rub-on wood stain that closely matches the tone of the surrounding floor using a soft rag. Let dry completely, then carefully apply a polyurethane or other matching surface finish to blend the stain area with the surrounding floor.

After the scratch is removed, clean the area with mineral spirits, let dry, and lightly touch up the surface with the same finish used on the rest of the floor, restoring its shine.

When the bare wood is exposed, carefully apply a nonwax wood filler to the crack. Colored wood fillers may be available that closely match the color of your floor. If not, you can apply an uncolored wood filler, then stain it to match the floor. After the filler dries, lightly sand it. Wipe away all dust, then apply a rub-on wood stain or finish with a small brush, if needed. Reapply as needed.

Moisten a clean cloth with water and place it over the dent. Apply the hot tip of a household clothes iron over the wet cloth, moving it around to drive moisture down into the wood fibers. Try to avoid steaming the surrounding wood finish, as it may discolor it. The dented area should soon swell back, eliminating the dent. Let the wood dry completely overnight. Sand the area lightly, if necessary, and remove the dust. Carefully apply finish touch-ups to match the rest of the floor.

Existing flooring nails may have simply loosened from the underlying subfloor, allowing the floor to buckle upward. Look for nail heads securing the flooring, and use a nail set to drive them back down into the subfloor. If the nails are hidden in the tongue-and-groove joints, drill pilot holes on the loose floorboards, and drive finish nails down into the subfloor. Recess the nail heads with a nail set, then fill the holes with wood putty.

Install solid cross blocking between joists to reinforce the floor and eliminate the squeak by eliminating flexing. Apply a bead of construction adhesive along the top of the blocking, then nail it to the adjoining joists so it is flush up against the subfloor.

The squeaking may also be caused by gaps between the surface flooring and the subfloor. The solution here is to drive screws from below, drawing down the surface flooring and snugging it up against the subfloor

Ideally, floorboards are replaced in full lengths so the original pattern can be preserved. However, it is sometimes most expedient to replace only the damaged area with small, custom-cut segments and do your best to blend it in.

Use a chisel to pry out the flooring pieces, and to complete the cuts at the end of the board so they are smooth. Remove any exposed nails visible in the cutout area.

Cut a new flooring board to length. Then use a circular saw, table saw, or wood chisel to cut away the bottom lip of the board’s groove. Insert the tongue edge of the new board into the groove of the existing board, and lever the board down into place, so that the remaining top groove edge fits over the tongue of the board at the other side of the cutout, as shown in the inset photo.

Facenail the new board in place by drilling pilot holes and driving finish nails down through the replacement board and into the subfloor. Recess the nail heads with a nail set, and fill the nail holes with putty. Finish the new board with stain and top coat finish to match the rest of the floor.

To prevent the boards from chipping, place painter’s tape along the outside of the pencil lines. To create a straightedge guide for your saw, tack a straight wood scrap inside the damaged area. Set this straightedge guide back from the cutting line a distance equal to the measurement between the saw blade and the edge of the saw foot plate.

Align the circular saw so the front of the saw foot is against the straightedge guide. Cut along the cutting line, stopping 1/4” from the corners. Remove the straightedge guide and repeat along other cutting lines. Complete the cuts with a sharp chisel to loosen the damaged board from the subfloor. For clean cuts, the chisel’s beveled side needs to face the damaged area.

Using a pry bar, hammer, and 2 × 4 leverage block, pry up the split board. Remove any nails showing.

Use the chisel to remove the narrow strips of remaining wood between the cutout area and the adjoining flooring boards. For a good fit of the replacement board, it is very important to make these cuts as square as possible. Cut a segment of new flooring board to length, then cut away the lower lip of the groove on one side of patch board.

Hook the tongue of the replacement piece into the exposed groove of the adjoining old floorboard and use a rubber mallet to tap the groove side down until it is flush with the surrounding floor.

On the face of the replacement board, drill pilot holes angled outward at each end, about 1/2” from the ends. Drive 11/2” 8d finish nails into the pilot holes, securing the repair board to the adjoining floorboards. Recess the nail heads with a nail set, and fill the nail holes with wood putty. If there are any gaps along the edges of the replacement piece, also fill them with wood putty. Once the putty is dry, sand the putty and patch area smooth with fine-grit sandpaper. Apply matching wood stain, and let dry; then apply two coats of matching finish.

From bottom to top, laminate planks are engineered to resist moisture, scratches, and dents. A melamine base layer protects the inner core layer, which is most often HDF (high-density fiberboard). This is occasionally followed by kraft paper saturated in resins for added protection and durability. The print film is a photographic layer that replicates the look of wood or ceramic. The surface is a highly protective wear layer. The tongue-and-groove planks fit together tightly and may be glued together for added stability.

To protect the floor from chipping, place painter’s tape along the cutlines. Set the circular saw depth to the thickness of the replacement plank. To plunge-cut the damaged plank, slowly lower the saw blade into the cutline until the foot rests flat on the floor. Push the saw from the center of the line out to each end. Stop 1/4” in from each corner. Use a hammer to tap a pry bar or chisel into the cutlines. Lift and remove the middle section. Place a sharp chisel between the two drill holes in each corner and strike with a hammer to complete each corner cut. Vacuum.

To remove the remaining outer edges of the damaged plank, place a scrap 2 × 4 wood block along the outside of one long cut and use it for leverage to push a pry bar under the flooring. Insert a second pry bar beneath the existing floor (directly under the joint of the adjacent plank) and use a pliers to grab the 11/2” border strip in front of the pry bar. Press downward until a gap appears at the joint. Remove the border piece. Remove the opposite strip and then the two short end pieces in the same manner. Remove all of the old glue from the factory edges with a chisel.

To remove the tongues on one long and one short end, clamp a straight cutting guide to the replacement plank so the distance from the guide causes the bit to align with the tongue and trim it off. Pressing a router or laminate trimmer against the cutting guide, slowly move along the entire edge of the replacement plank to remove the tongue.

Dry-fit the grooves on the replacement board into the tongues of the surrounding boards and press into place.

Set the replacement plank by applying laminate glue to the removed edges of the replacement plank and into the grooves of the existing planks. Firmly press the plank into place. Clean up glue with a damp towel. Place a strip of wax paper over the new plank and evenly distribute some books on the wax paper. Allow the adhesive to dry for 12 to 24 hours.

Scrape away remaining adhesive with a putty knife or, for stubborn spots, a floor scraper. Work from the edges to the center so that you don’t accidentally scrape up the adjacent tiles. Use mineral spirits to dissolve leftover goop.

When the floor is dry, use a notched trowel—with 1/8” V-shaped notches—held at a 45° angle to apply a thin, even layer of vinyl tile adhesive onto the underlayment.

Set one edge of the tile in place. Lower the tile onto the underlayment and then press it into place. Apply pressure with a J-roller to create a solid bond, starting at the center and working toward the edge to work out air bubbles. If adhesive oozes out the sides, wipe it up with a damp cloth or sponge. Cover the tile with wax paper and some books, and let the adhesive dry for 24 hours.

Lay the patch over the damaged area, matching pattern lines. Secure the patch with duct tape. Using a carpenter’s square as a cutting guide, cut through the new vinyl (on top) and the old vinyl (on bottom). Press firmly with the knife to cut both layers.

Remove the damaged section of floor. Work from edges in. When the tile is loosened, insert a putty knife and pry up the damaged material. Scrape off the remaining adhesive with a putty knife or chisel or paint scraper.

Apply adhesive to the patch, using a notched trowel (with 1/8” V-shaped notches) held at a 45° angle to the back of the new vinyl patch.

Set one edge of the patch in place. Lower the patch onto the underlayment. Press into place. Apply pressure with a J-roller or rolling pin to create a solid bond. Start at the center and work toward the edges, working out air bubbles. Let the adhesive dry overnight. Use a soft cloth dipped in lacquer thinner to clean the area. Mix the seam sealer according to the manufacturer’s directions.

Insert a cold chisel into one of the cracks and gently tap the tile. Start at the center and chip outward so you don’t damage the adjacent tiles. Be aware that cementboard substrate looks a lot like mortar when you’re chiseling. Remove and discard the broken pieces.

Use a putty knife to scrape away old thinset adhesive; use a chisel for poured-mortar installation. Once the adhesive is scraped from the underlayment, smooth the rough areas with sandpaper. If there are gouges in the underlayment, fill them with epoxy-based thinset mortar (for cementboard) or a floor-leveling compound (for plywood).

Use a notched trowel to apply thinset adhesive to the back of the replacement tile. Set the tile down into the space, doing your best to get it as level as you can with the surrounding tile and to keep it centered in the open area. Use a mallet or hammer and a block of wood covered with cloth or a carpet scrap to lightly tap on the tile, setting it into the adhesive.

Use a putty knife to apply grout to the joints. Fill in low spots by applying and smoothing grout with your finger. Use the round edge of a toothbrush handle to create a concave grout line, if desired. Wipe away excess grout with a clean, damp sponge.

Using the cookie-cutter tool again, cut a replacement patch from scrap carpeting. If you did not reserve any, check in a nearby closet for usable, matching material. Insert double-face carpet tape under the cutout, positioning the tape so it overlaps the patch seams.

Press the patch into place. Make sure the direction of the nap or pattern matches the existing carpet. To seal the seam and prevent unraveling, apply seam adhesive to the edges of the patch.

Thrust your knee into the cushion of the knee kicker to force the carpet toward the wall. Tuck the carpet edge into the space between the wood strip and the baseboard using a 4” wallboard knife. If the carpet is still loose, trim the edge with a utility knife and stretch it again.

It’s a pretty sure bet that once you turn your attention to walls and ceilings, it won’t be long before you find yourself on a ladder with a putty knife in your hand.

Wall touch-up/repair materials include self-adhesive seam tape (A); hole-patching kit (B); nail hole filler (C); joint compound (D); stainblocking primer/sealer (E); and sink and tub caulk (F). Some new spackling compounds (G) start out pink and dry white so you can see when they’re ready to be sanded and painted. Sponges (H) are useful for smoothing damp joint compound to reduce the amount of sanding that’s necessary later.

Wall cleaning and degreasing products are needed for both regular maintenance and to prepare walls for paint or wallpaper before a painting project. If wallpaper is to be removed, a wallpaper-removal agent is extremely helpful. Clockwise from top left are cleanup solution to remove old drips and splatters, wallcovering remover to strip old wallcoverings, trisodium phosphate (TSP) for washing the walls, and rubber gloves, which should be worn when using chemicals such as these.

If wallboard is dented, without cracks or tears in the face paper, just fill the hole with lightweight spackling or all-purpose joint compound, let it dry, and sand it smooth.

Most wallboard problems can be remedied with basic wallboard materials and specialty materials: (A) wallboard screws; (B) paper joint tape; (C) self‑adhesive fiberglass mesh tape; (D) corner bead; (E) paintable latex or silicone caulk; (F) all‑purpose joint compound; (G) lightweight spackling compound; (H) wallboard repair patches; (I) scraps of wallboard; (J) and wallboard repair clips.

To repair a popped nail, drive a wallboard screw 2” above or below the nail, so it pulls the panel tight to the framing. Scrape away loose paint or compound, then drive the popped nail 1/16” below the surface. Apply joint compound to cover the holes.

Push along the sides of the crack with your hand. If the drywall moves, secure the panel with 11/4” drywall screws driven into the nearest framing members. Cover the crack and screws with self-adhesive mesh tape.

Cover the tape with compound, lightly forcing it into the mesh, then smooth it off, leaving just enough to conceal the tape. Add two more coats, in successively broader and thinner coats to blend the patch into the surrounding area.

OPTION: For small cracks at corners, apply a thin bead of paintable latex or silicone caulk over the crack, then use your finger to smooth the caulk into the corner.

Cover the tape with all-purpose joint compound, lightly forcing it into the mesh, then smooth it off, leaving just enough to conceal the tape.

Add two more coats of compound in successively broader and thinner coats to blend the patch into the surrounding area. Use a drywall wet sander to smooth the repair area.

Cut plywood or lumber backer strips a few inches longer than the height of the cutout. Fasten the strips to the back side of the drywall, drilling through the front with 1 1/4” drywall screws.

Cut a drywall patch 1/8” smaller than the cutout dimensions, and fasten it to the backer strips with screws. Apply mesh joint tape over the seams. Finish the seams with three coats of compound.

Spackle is used to conceal cracks, gashes, and small holes in plaster. Some new spackling compounds start out pink and dry white so you can see when they’re ready to be sanded and painted. Use lightweight spackle for low-shrinkage and one-application fills.

Fill the hole with lightweight spackle. Apply the spackle with the smallest knife that will span the damaged area. Let the spackle dry, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Sand the patch lightly with 150-grit sandpaper. Wipe the dust away with a clean cloth, then prime and paint the area, feathering the paint to blend the edges.

Mix patching plaster as directed by the manufacturer, and use a wallboard knife or trowel to apply it to the hole. Fill shallow holes with a single coat of plaster. For deeper holes, apply a shallow first coat, then scratch a crosshatch pattern in the wet plaster (inset photo). Let it dry, then apply a second coat of plaster. Let the plaster dry, and sand it lightly.

Work joint compound into the keyway using a 6” knife, then embed mesh tape into the compound, lightly forcing the compound through the mesh. Smooth the compound, leaving just enough to conceal the tape.

Add two more coats of compound, in successively broader and thinner coats, to blend the patch into the surrounding area. Lightly sand, then retexture the repair area to match the wall. Prime and paint it to finish the repair.

Remove loose tape and compound using a utility knife. Cut back areas of soft drywall to solid material. To prevent sagging, prop waterlogged ceiling panels against joists with “T” braces (a ceiling-height 2 × 4 with a 2 × 4 crosspiece attached to the top).

Once drywall is dry, refasten ceiling panels to framing or remove panels that are excessively bowed. Reinforce damaged wall panels with drywall screws driven 2” from the existing fasteners.

Patch all vent holes and damaged areas with drywall (see here) and replace any insulation. Apply a quality stain-blocking primer/sealer to the affected area. Use an oil-based sealer; latex-based sealers may allow water stains to bleed through.

After the primer/sealer has dried, finish all joints and repairs with paper tape and three coats of compound. If water stains bleed through, reseal prior to final priming and painting.

Insert the tip of a glue applicator through the slit and apply adhesive sparingly to the wall under the wallcovering. Press the wallcovering gently to rebond it. Use a clean, damp sponge to press the flap down and wipe away excess glue.

Holding a utility knife blade at a 90° angle to the wall, cut through both layers of wallcovering. If the wallcovering has strong pattern lines, cut along the lines to hide the seams. With less definite patterns, cut irregular lines.

Remove the scrap and patch, then peel away the damaged wallcovering. Apply adhesive to the back of the patch and position it in the hole so that the pattern matches. Rinse the patch area with a damp sponge.

Pierce the wallcovering surface with a wallpaper scorer, sometimes called a tiger claw (inset) to allow remover solution to enter and soften the adhesive. Use a pressure sprayer, paint roller, or sponge to apply the remover solution. Let it soak into the covering, according to the manufacturer’s directions.

Peel away loosened wallcovering with a 6” wallboard knife. Be careful not to damage the plaster or wallboard. Remove all backing paper. Rinse adhesive residue from the wall with remover solution or TSP. Rinse with clear water and let the walls dry completely.

Clean and rinse the grout joints, then spread grout over the entire tile surface, using a rubber grout float or sponge. Work the grout well into the joints and let it set slightly.

Wipe away excess grout with a damp sponge. When the grout is dry, wipe away the residue and polish the tiles with a dry cloth.

Cut the tip off caulk cartridges at a 45° angle and then make a flat cut at the top with a utility knife. This will allow you to deliver a smooth bead that is not too thin or too heavy. Fill the joint with silicone or latex caulk. Pros can lay a perfect bead, but for most DIYers you’ll get better, more attractive results if you wet your fingertip with cold water, then use your finger to smooth the caulk into a cove shape.

Test-fit the replacement tile and make sure it sits flush with the field. Spread adhesive on the back of the replacement tile and place it in the hole, twisting it slightly. Use masking tape to hold the tile in place for 24 hours so the adhesive can dry. Remove the tape, then apply premixed grout, using a sponge or grout float

Removing ceiling texture is not really a home repair, but it something many homeowners want to do so they can replace the texture with a more modern home décor product. It is a messy job, but generally the texture comes off pretty easily. Spray the textured area with a light detergent, wait a half hour or so, and then start scraping with a 6” drywall knife. Patch any damaged areas with joint compound, then prime and paint.

When the area is securely fastened, scrape off any loose chips of paint or wallboard around joints and screws, then fill with compound. Cover large cracks or gaps with fiberglass tape before applying the compound.

Trim the upper lip of the grooved edges of the new tile, using a straightedge. If necessary, also remove one of the tongues.

At the ceiling, apply construction adhesive to the furring strips. Install the new tile, tongue first, and press it into the adhesive.

TIP: To hold large tiles in place while the glue dries, place a flat board across the tile, then wedge a 2 × 4 post between the board and the floor.

LADDER SAFETY

Ladder safety is of course a very important consideration when working high on your walls or on your ceiling. Don’t skimp on quality—most rental centers have a full assortment of ladders and scaffolding for reasonable rental rates. Two quality stepladders and an extension plank are all you need to paint most interior surfaces, including ceilings. For painting high areas, build a simple scaffold by running the plank through the steps of two stepladders. It can be easy to lose your balance or step off the plank, so choose tall ladders for safety. Buy a strong, straight 2” × 10” board no more than 10 feet long, or rent a plank from a material dealer or rental outlet.

Some painting projects require special preparation, which can include the application of specialty products. Primarily, these include painting old surfaces that are not smooth, as when you remove wallpaper (see here), or very glossy surfaces, such as enamel paint, that require deglossing for the new paint to stick.

Don’t overload a paint brush. Dip it into the paint, loading one third of its bristle length. Tap the bristles against the side of the can to remove excess paint, but do not drag the bristles against the lip of the can.

Paint to a wet edge. Cut in the edges on small sections with a paintbrush, then immediately roll the section. Using a corner roller makes it unnecessary to cut in inside corners. With two painters, have one cut in with a brush while the other rolls the large areas.

Minimize brush marks. Slide the roller cover slightly off of the roller cage when rolling near wall corners or a ceiling line. Brushed areas dry to a different finish than rolled paint.

Window and door repairs fall into two basic categories: improving operation and upgrading weatherization.

Modern entry doors are more accurately described as entry systems. Most are shipped prehung, often with transoms and sidelites preinstalled. This simplifies installation—you simply tip it up into the door opening and screw it in place. But it complicates getting at the parts and limits what you can do as far as repair and maintenance.

Door hardware, too, is changing constantly, often for stylistic reasons. The sliding barn-door hardware seen here is a good example. It is relatively simple, but keeping up with technological door and window hardware advances can require some attention.

Window and door security remains an issue that most homeowners have the capacity to improve-not just with mechanical additions, but by instituting safer practices and my taking advantage of the growing list of app-based products that assist in home monitoring. The relatively simple products seen at left are all effective and easy to install.

Remove the door and set it aside. Clean and lubricate the hinge pins before reinstalling the door.

Coat wooden golf tees or wood dowels with wood glue, and drive them into the worn screw holes. If necessary, drill out the screw holes to accept dowels—it’s better than pounding too hard on the dee or dowels and splitting the jamb wood. Let the glue dry, then cut off excess wood with a sharp utility knife.

Drill small pilot holes in the new wood patch, and reinstall the hinge.

Remove two hinge screws from the top or bottom hinge, and drive a 3” wood screw into each hole. The screws will reach the framing studs in the wall and pull the door jamb, changing the angle of the door. Add long screws to the top hinge to raise the latchbolt or to the bottom hinge to lower it.

Adjust the door trim to follow the door. You can do this by removing or loosening the doorstop molding and reattaching it to conform to the door’s warped profile. You likely will have some touch-up work to do on the door jamb where the doorstop edge has moved.

Secure the door on-edge. If the door has veneered surfaces, sand back the veneer edges slightly so they do not catch the plane blade and splinter. Grip the toe knob and handle firmly, and plane with long, smooth strokes. You could also use a belt sander or a power planer for this step if you are not good with a hand plane—it is an acquired skill. Check the door’s fit, then sand the planed area smooth.

Apply clear sealer or paint to the sanded or planed area and any other exposed surfaces of the door. This will prevent moisture from entering the wood and is especially important for entry doors.

Check the gap along the bottom edge of the door to make sure it is even. To adjust the gap, rotate the mounting screw to raise or lower the door edge.

Check closed doors for alignment within the door frame. If the gap between the closed doors is uneven, adjust the top pivot blocks with a screwdriver or wrench.

Mark the cutting line. Cut through the door veneer with a sharp utility knife to prevent it from chipping when the door is sawed.

Lay the door on sawhorses and clamp a straightedge to the door as a cutting guide. Saw off the bottom of the door. The hollow core of the door may be exposed.

To reinstall a cutoff frame piece in the bottom of the door, remove the frame piece from the door and chisel the veneer from both sides of the frame.

Apply wood glue to the cutoff piece. Insert the frame piece into the opening at the door bottom and clamp it. Wipe away any excess glue and let the glue dry overnight.

Spring-lift windows operate with the help of a spring-loaded lift rod inside a metal tube. Adjust them by unscrewing the top end of the tube from the jamb, then twisting the tube to change the spring tension: clockwise for more lifting power; counterclockwise for less. Maintain a tight grip on the tube at all times to keep it from unwinding.

Windows endure temperature extremes, house settling, and all sorts of wear and tear. Sooner or later, you’ll need to perform a bit of maintenance to keep them working properly.

Spring-loaded windows have an adjustment screw on the track insert. Adjust both sides until the window is balanced and opens and closes smoothly.

Place a block of scrap wood against the window sash. Tap very lightly with a hammer to free the window.

Lubricate window channels by rubbing them with a white candle, then opening and closing the window a few times. Do not use liquid lubricants on wood windows

Disengage the extension arm by pulling it down and out of the track. Clean the track with a stiff brush, and wipe the pivoting arms and hinges with a rag.

Lubricate the track and hinges with spray lubricant or household oil. Wipe off excess lubricant with a cloth, then reattach the extension arm. If that doesn’t solve the problem, repair or replace the crank assembly.

Apply an all-purpose grease to the gears, and reinstall the assembly. Connect the pivot arms, and attach the extension arm to the window. Test the window operation before installing the cap and molding.

Apply a thin bed of glazing compound to the wood frame opening and smooth it in place with your thumb. If you are having trouble getting the glazing compound to stick, make sure the product is not too old and dried out—fresh compound always works better. You can also try applying a coat of shellac on the wood in the recess if the wood frame is very old.

Press the new pane into the opening, making sure to achieve a tight seal with the compound on all sides. Do not press all the compound out. Drive glazier’s points into the wood frame to hold the pane in place. Use the tip of a putty knife to slide the point against the surface of the glass. Install at least two points on each side of the pane.

Make a rope of glazing compound (about 1/2” dia.) by rolling it between your hands. Then press it against the pane and the wood frame. Smooth it in place by drawing a putty knife, held at a 45° angle, across its surface. Scrape off excess. Let the glazing compound dry for at least one week, and then prime and paint it to match the rest of the sash. When the paint is dry, scrape off the extra with a razor blade paint scraper.

Weatherizing products commonly found in home centers include clear film, heat-shrink window insulator kit (A); an aluminum door threshold with vinyl weather stripping insert (B); a nail-on, rubber door sweep (C); minimal expanding spray foam (D); silicone window and door caulk (E); open-cell foam caulk-backer rod (F); self-adhesive, closed-cell foam weather stripping coil (G); flexible brass weather stripping coil, also called V-channel, (H).

A felt, bristle, or rubber door sweep seals out drafts, even if you have an uneven floor or a low threshold.

Install a storm door to decrease drafts and energy loss through entry doors. Look for an insulated storm door with a continuous hinge and seamless exterior surface.

Patio door: Use rubber compression strips to seal the channels in patio door jambs, where movable panels fit when closed. Also install a patio door insulator kit (plastic sheeting installed similarly to plastic sheeting for windows) on the interior side of the door.

Cut two pieces of metal tension strip or V-channel the full height of the door opening, and cut another to full width. Use wire brads to tack the strips to the door jambs and door header on the interior side of the doorstops. Attach metal weather stripping from the top down to help prevent buckling. Flare out the tension strips with a putty knife to fill the gaps between the jambs and the door when the door is in the closed position (do not pry too far at a time).

Add reinforced felt strips to the edge of the doorstop on the exterior side. The felt edge should form a close seal with the door when closed. Drive fasteners only until they are flush with the surface of the reinforcing spine—overdriving will cause damage and buckling.

Sliding windows: Treat side-by-side sliding windows as if they were double-hung windows turned 90°. For greater durability, use metal tension strips, rather than self-adhesive compressible foam, in the sash track that fit against the edge of the sash when the window is closed.

Casement windows: Attach self-adhesive foam or rubber compression strips on the outside edges of the window stops.

Storm windows: Create a tight seal by attaching foam compression strips to the outside of storm window stops. After installing the storm window, fill any gaps between the exterior window trim and the storm window with caulk backer rope.

Lower sash of a double-hung window. Wipe down the underside of the bottom window sash with a damp rag, and let it dry; then attach self-adhesive compressible foam or rubber to the underside of the sash. Use high-quality hollow neoprene strips, if available. This will create an airtight seal when the window is locked in position.

Upper sash of a double-hung window. Seal the gap between the top sash and the bottom sash on double-hung windows. Lift the bottom sash and lower the top sash to improve access, and tack metal V-channel to the bottom rail of the top sash using wire brads. The open end of the “V” should be pointed downward so moisture cannot collect in the channel. Flare out the V-channel with a putty knife to fit the gap between the sash.

Remove the metal storm window sash by pressing in the release hardware in the lower rail then lifting the sash out. Sash hangers on the corners of the top rail should be aligned with the notches in the side channels before removal.

Stretch the new screening tightly over the frame so that it overlaps the edges of the frame. Keeping the screen taut, use the convex side of a spline roller to press the screen into the retaining grooves.

TIP: You can have insect screening, mostly fiber glass these days, cut to size at most hardware stores, or you may be able to purchase it from a roll by the lineal foot. Make sure your replacement screening is at least 6” larger than the window frame in both directions.

Use the concave side of the spline roller (a specialty item available at hardware stores specifically for this purpose) to press the spline into the groove—it helps to have a partner for this. Carefully cut away excess screening using a sharp utility knife and a straightedge to hold the screening tight against the frame.

CAUTION: The screening is prone to catching on the blade and being torn from the retaining grooves if it is not taut.

Set the frame on a flat surface, and disconnect the top rail. Remove the retaining screws in the sides of the frame stiles where they join the top rail. After unscrewing the retaining screws, pull the top rail loose, pulling gently in a downward motion to avoid damaging the L-shaped corner keys that join the rail and the stiles. For glass replacement, you need disconnect only the top rail.

Fit the rubber gasket (buy a replacement if the original is in poor condition) around one edge of the replacement glass pane. At the corners, cut the spine of the gasket partway so it will bend around the corner. Continue fitting the gasket around the pane, cutting at the corners, until all four edges are covered. Trim off any excess gasket material.

Slide the glass pane into the channels in the stiles and bottom rail of the sash frame. Insert corner keys into the top rail, then slip the other ends of the keys into the frame stiles. Press down on the top rail until the mitered corners are flush with the stiles. Drive the retaining screws back through the stiles and into the top rail to join the frame together. Reinsert the frame into the window.

Corner keys are secured in the rail slots with crimps that are punched into the metal over the key. To remove keys, drill through the metal in the crimped area using a drill bit the same diameter as the crimp. Carefully knock the broken key pieces from the frame slots with a screwdriver and hammer.

Locate matching replacement parts for the broken corner key, which is usually an assembly of two or three pieces. There are dozens of different types, so it is important that you save the old parts for reference. Most hardware stores carry a wide selection of common types. Insert the replacement corner key assembly into the slot in the rail. Use a nail set as a punch and rap it into the metal over the corner key, creating a new crimp to hold the key in place.

Insert the glass and gasket into the frame slots, then reassemble the frame and drive in retainer screws (for screen windows, replace the screening).

Add a wind chain if your storm door does not have one. Wind chains prevent doors from blowing open too far, causing damage to the door hinges or closer. Set the chain so the door will not open more than 90°.

Adjust the door closer so it has the right amount of tension to close the door securely, without slamming. Most closers have tension-adjustment screws at the end of the cylinder farthest from the hinge side of the door.

A schematic drawing of the basic parts of a classic garage door and opener system.

Remove clogged or damaged rollers from the door by loosening the nuts that hold the roller brackets. The roller will come with the bracket when the bracket is pulled free. Clean the rollers. Mineral spirits and kerosene are good solvents for cleaning roller bearings.

If the rollers are making a lot of noise as they move over the tracks, the tracks are probably out of alignment. To fix this, check the tracks for plumb. If they are out of plumb, the track mounting brackets must be adjusted.

To adjust out-of-plumb tracks, loosen all the track mounting brackets (usually 3 or 4 per track) and push the brackets into alignment. Once the track is plumb, tighten all the bolts.

Sometimes the door lock bar opens sluggishly because the return spring has lost its tension. The only way to fix this is to replace the spring. One end is attached to the body of the lock; the other end hooks onto the lock bar.

If a latch needs lubrication, use graphite in powder or liquid form. Don’t use oil because it attracts dust that will clog the lock even more.

If the chain on your garage door opener is sagging more than 1/2” below the bottom rail, it can make a lot of noise and cause drive sprocket wear. Tighten the chain according to the directions in the owner’s manual.

On openers with a chain, lubricate the entire length of the chain with penetrating oil. Do not use grease. Use the same lubricant if your opener has a drive screw instead.

Make sure that the sensors are “talking” to the opener properly. Start to close the door, then put your hand down between the two sensors. If the door stops immediately and reverses direction, it’s working properly. If it’s not, make the adjustment recommended in the owner’s manual. If that doesn’t do the trick, call a professional door installer and don’t use the door until it passes this test.

Many home wiring repair and minor improvement projects are pretty simple and only dangerous if you are not careful and don’t follow instructions and safety precautions. Some, such as replacing ordinary duplex receptacles with GFCI-protected devices will greatly improve the safety of your home.

Most basic home wiring repairs can be accomplished with relatively simple hand tools, such as screwdrivers, a utility knife, and pliers. As you take on more complex projects, you’ll want to invest in some simple hand tools that are specific to home wiring. But in either case you will need some diagnostic tools to work safely, even on the simplest projects. The diagnostic tools above include, from left to right, a touchless circuit tester that lets you check for voltage without actually touching live wires or screw terminals; a plug-in tester for checking the polarity and grounding of a receptacle; and a multimeter, which is a crucial device for more complicated work but may not be needed for some of the more basic projects.

A cable ripper has one job only: to split the sheathing on wire cable (called NM cable) and expose the insulated wires inside without damaging them.

A wire stripper has graduated holes, like an old-style pencil sharpener, so you can select the opening that matches the gauge of the wire you are working with and use the tool to safely strip off the insulation without damaging the copper wire inside. You cannot make electrical connections with unstripped wire.

OTHER IMPORTANT SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS WHEN WORKING WITH ELECTRICITY:

• Do not attempt any job unless you are certain how to do it and comfortable with the work. Never guess.

• Wear rubber-sole shoes when working with wiring—they are poor conductors of electricity in the event you get a shock.

• If you need to work on a ladder, use only wood or fiberglass ones—never metal.

• If you need to replace a circuit breaker or fuse, make certain that you buy one made by the same manufacturer as the electrical panel (they are not interchangeable) and that the new device is rated for the same amperage as the one you are replacing.

• Do not drill or saw into or otherwise penetrate any wall without either shutting off all power to the house first or testing with a voltage finder—this is a different tool than the voltage tester or sensor shown here and more closely resembles an electronic stud finder (some of which also have voltage finder capability).

• Never splice wires together unless the connection is made inside a certified junction box.

• Always use a wire connector of the correct size when splicing wires: a connector that is too big or too small can allow wires to fall out. Never make a splice using only electrical tape to bind the wires: that is not the purpose of electrical tape and is not allowed by codes.

• Do not attempt to remove cable sheathing or strip insulated conductors (wires) using a knife, scissors or any tool other than one rated for that purpose (see Cable ripper and Wire stripper, shown here).

• When attaching a wire to a screw terminal, make sure the required loop at the end of the wire is slightly larger than the diameter of the screw and orient the wire so the open end will be pressed further into a closed position when the screw is tightened in a clockwise direction.

• Test all connections by tugging lightly on them to make sure the wires are held fast and will not pull out or detach from a terminal from light pressure.

• Use the right tool for the job, and make sure the tool is clean and in good condition. In most home wiring projects, a very basic set of hand tools should include needle-nose pliers, linesman pliers (or wire cutters), phillips and slotted screwdrivers. Other tools will be required situationally.

• Never force wires or devices into a junction box. If you have the appropriate amount of cable extending into the box and do a neat job of arranging the connectors, any device you are mounting on the box should easily fit onto the box without pressure.

• Use only the regulation screws that are provided with your junction box to attach devices and faceplates to the box. A screw that it too long can extend too far into the box and contact the wires. One that is too narrow or wide or improperly threaded can slip out.

• Do not hesitate to contact a professional electrician when you encounter a situation that is outside of your knowledge and comfort level.

Locate and inspect your main service panel before starting any job. If your circuit map is up to date, try shutting off the power to the likely circuit you want to work on by flipping the switch on the appropriate breaker to OFF. Test the device you will be working on with a touchless circuit tester to make sure it is not receiving power. If there is any doubt in your mind, shut off the main circuit breakers at the top of the panel that provide power to all circuits.

Shut off power, and test the wires by placing a touchless voltage sensor within 1/2” of the wires. If the sensor beeps or lights up, then the circuit is still live and is not safe to work on. When the sensor does not beep or light up, the circuit is dead and may be worked upon. “Touchless” testers are safer than older neon circuit testers because you do not have to contact any potentially live wires.

To reset the breaker, first press the lever all the way to the OFF position, and then back to the ON position. If you were successful you should hear a clicking sound.

If an AFCI and GFCI breaker trips, press the “Push” button after you reset the breaker. If the breaker is functioning properly, it will trip to the OFF position. If it does not, the breaker likely is faulty and needs replacement.

Holding the cable tightly, pull back on the cable ripper tool to create a longitudinal slice through the sheathing and insulating paper, all the way to the end.

Pull down the sheathing and paper all the way to the initial point of the cut. Trim off the excess with scissors or the cutting jaws of a linesman pliers or a combination wire-stripper tool.

Insert each insulated conductor into the appropriately sized opening on your wire stripper or combination tool (in most homes this will be either 12 or 14-gauge). Clamp the jaws of the tool onto the insulation 3/4” from the end. Rotate the tool back and forth slightly to pierce the sheathing all the way around, and then press the tool toward the end of the wire. The insulation should slide along the wire and drop off when you reach the end.

Unscrew the screw terminal on the device you are connecting to just enough to create clearance for the wire loops. Hook each wire loop over onto the shaft the correct screw terminal so the open end of the C is on the clockwise-turning side of the screw. Note that some devices have a slot in the casing next to the terminal for the wire to rest in. Make sure the feed side of the wire is in this slot to get the sturdiest connection. Use some tension to keep the loop in place as you tighten the screw so the screw head does not dislodge the loop. Tug lightly on the feed wire after you are done to make sure the connection is secure.

Twist a wire connector over the ends of the wires. Make sure the connector is the right size. Hand-twist the connector as far onto the wires as you can. There should be no bare wire exposed beneath the collar of the connector.

Join one end of the pigtail to the wires that will share the connection using a wire nut.

Connect the pigtail to the appropriate terminal on the receptacle or switch. Fold the wires neatly and press the fitting into the box.

How a typical single-pole wall switch is wired depends on whether it is located in the middle of a circuit or at the end. It’s a little complicated and has to do with whether or not there are multiple switches controlling a single fixture, usually a light. If the switch is in the middle, two 3-wire cables will be in the switch box: one from the power source and the other heading out to the load. If it is on the end, only one cable with three or four wires comes into the box.

If you are making a one-for-one switch replacement, it is usually safe to assume that the old switch was wired correctly, and simply get a new switch that is configured like the old one and hook it up the same way.

Disconnect the wires from the old switch. If the wires are not in pristine condition, strip off some insulation, cut 1/4” to 1/2” of wire to create a clean end, and then rebend the terminal connection loops on the wires (see here). If the wires coming into the box were connected directly to the switch, reconnect them to the new switch in the same configuration. If the old wires were connected to the switch with pigtails (see previous page), create new pigtail wires and connect them to the new switch and to the incoming and outgoing wires in the same manner. Connect the grounding wire (usually bare copper) to the green grounding terminal on the switch. Fold the wire neatly behind the switch and insert the device back into the switch box. Fasten it to the box with the mounting screws and test. Reattach the coverplate.

The typical wiring scheme of a three-way switch. The key to getting the replacement right is to make sure the two traveler wires are connected to the two traveler terminal on the switch, and the common wire is connected to the common terminal on the new switch. The white neutrals should be connected with a wire connector but not attached to the switch. The ground wires should be pigtailed from the incoming cable and to the switch grounding terminal and then connected to the grounding screw on the switch box.

Typical duplex receptacles are wired, like switches, differently according to whether they are located in the middle or end of a circuit. Also like switches, it is good to understand the difference if you are replacing a receptacle, but in most cases simply hooking up the new device in the same manner will give you good results. But always check your installation with a plug-in tester (see here) to make sure it is functioning properly. The photo above represents an end-of-run installation where no additional receptacles or devices follow the receptacle in the circuit. In this case, only one cable enters the box and two of the screw terminals are unused. In the following photo, both an incoming cable and an outgoing cable are present, and all four terminal are connected.

15-amp, 120-volt three-slot receptacles are standard in 15-amp home circuits. See “Up or Down” below. The device shown here is also tamper-resistant in that the slots are protected so children can’t poke small items into them. Tamper-resistant receptacles are required in new construction.

20-amp, 120-volt receptacles are designed for 20-amp circuits, required in kitchens, among other places. The T-shaped slot identifies them as 20-amp and accommodates the plugs on some appliances and tools that draw high amperage and, therefore, have a corresponding T-shaped plug.

15-amp, 240-volt receptacles have two horizontal slots and are installed on a 240-volt circuit. They are used most often for window air conditioners. Other 240-volt receptacles, installed mostly on dedicated clothes dryer or electric water heater or oven circuits, carry higher amperage (30 or 50 amps on most cases) also have unique slot configurations. Because of their high amperage, it is best to have them serviced by a professional electrician if they develop issues.

A multimeter (also called an ammeter) is a more advanced wiring-diagnostic tool that can perform multiple diagnostic functions depending on the settings. They are very useful tools to have if you wish to advance your home wiring skills. Using one correctly takes some studying, so read the manual carefully if you buy one.

GFCI receptacles provide point-of-service ground fault protection and are required in any area of the home where moisture is present, including kitchens, bathrooms, basement, and garages. They are rated for either 15- or 20-amp circuits, so make sure the one you buy matches the amperage of the circuit it is being installed in (see previous page). You can also provide ground fault protection to an entire circuit by installing a GFCI circuit breaker in your main panel. See here.

Correct: Wire insulation touches the screw terminal and the loose end of the wire is tucked neatly underneath the terminal screwhead.

Mistake: Wires are connected to the wrong terminals. Receptacles have brass and silver terminals: brass is for the live wires (usually black) and silver is for the white neutral wires. Although a receptacle wired in this manner may appear to function normally, in fact it will deliver power to the long neutral slot of the receptacle, so power will be traveling to the load through the neutral path.

Correct: In a correct installation, all live power-carrying wires are connected to brass terminals on the receptacle, and all white neutral wire are connected to silver terminals.

NOTE: One of the limitations of plug-in testers (previous page) is that most will not detect if current is flowing to the neutral slot. You’ll need to either test with a multimeter or make a visual inspection of the terminal connections.

GFCI receptacles have two buttons: TEST and RESET. To ensure that they are functioning, press the TEST button manufacturers suggest you test at least once a year. This should cause the outlet to lose power immediately. Then push the RESET button to restore power. If the GFCI trips from an occasional nuisance change in current level, hit the RESET button. If the GFCI trips again, it likely means that one of the appliances plugged into that outlet has a fault.

Disconnect the white neutral wires from the old receptacle first. Create a white wire pigtail if none is present in the box (see here). Join all white wires in the box, plus the pigtail, with an appropriate wire connector (see here).

Connect the free end of the white pigtail wire to the silver terminal marked LINE on the GFCI receptacle.

NOTE: The installation shown here is for single-location protection. Your GFCI receptacle will have a second set of brass and silver terminals marked “LOAD.” These are for use if you are wiring the device to feed additional circuits downstream. For the project shown here do not attach any wires to the LINE terminals.

Disconnect all black wires from the old receptacle. Create a black pigtail if none is present. Connect all black wires in the box, plus the pigtail, with an appropriate wire connector. Attach the free end of the pigtail to the brass terminal marked LINE on the GFCI receptacle.

If a grounding wire is available, connect it to the green grounding screw on the GFCI. Neatly fold the wires behind the GFCI and insert it into the receptacle box. Because GFCI receptacles have slightly larger bodies than standard receptacles, the fit is likely to be more snug than it was with the old unit. Do not force the GFCI in. If the box is overcrowded, it will need to be replaced with a larger box. Mount the GFCI to box with the provided mounting screws and attach the coverplate (usually provided with the GFCI).

Before 1959, light fixtures often were mounted directly to an electrical box or to plaster lath. Electrical codes now require that fixtures be attached to mounting straps that are anchored to the electrical boxes. If you have a light fixture attached to plaster lath, install an approved electrical box with a mounting strap to support the fixture.

Disconnect the light fixture base by loosening the screw terminals. If the fixture has wire leads instead of screw terminals, remove the light fixture base by unscrewing the wire connectors.

Adjust the metal tab at the bottom of the fixture socket by prying it up slightly with a small screwdriver. This adjustment will improve the contact between the socket and the lightbulb.

Test the socket (shown cutaway) by attaching the clip of a multimeter (see here) to the hot screw terminal (or black wire lead) and touching the probe of the tester to the metal tab in the bottom of the socket. The multimeter should indicate continuity. If not, the socket is faulty and must be replaced.

Attach the multimeter clip to the neutral screw terminal (or white wire lead), and touch the probe to the threaded portion of the socket. The multimeter should indicate continuity. If not, the socket is faulty and must be replaced. If the socket is permanently attached, replace the fixture.

Purchase an identical replacement socket. Connect the white wire to the silver screw terminal on the socket, and connect the black wire to the brass screw terminal. Attach the socket to the fixture base, and reinstall the fixture.

Label the wires connected to the switch leads. Disconnect the switch leads, and remove the switch.

Test the switch by attaching the clip of a multimeter to one of the switch leads and holding the probe to the other lead. Operate the switch control. If the switch is good, the multimeter will indicate continuity when the switch is in one position but not both. If the switch is faulty, purchase and install a duplicate switch. Remount the light fixture, and turn on the power at the main service panel.

Turn off power at the main panel. Unscrew the retaining nut, and lower the decorative coverplate away from the electrical box. Most chandeliers are supported by a threaded nipple attached to a mounting strap.

MOUNTING VARIATION: Some chandeliers are supported only by the coverplate that is bolted to the electrical box mounting strap. These types do not have a threaded nipple.

Test for power with a circuit tester. Disconnect fixture wires by removing the wire connectors. Unscrew the threaded nipple and carefully place the chandelier on a flat surface.

Remove the cap from the bottom of the chandelier, exposing the wire connections inside the hollow base. Disconnect the socket wires and fixture wires.

Test the socket by attaching the clip of the multimeter to the black socket wire and touching the probe to the tab in the socket. Repeat with the socket threads and the white socket wire. If the multimeter does not indicate continuity, the socket must be replaced.

Remove a faulty socket by loosening any mounting screws or clips and pulling the socket and socket wires out of the fixture arm. Purchase and install a new chandelier socket, threading the socket wires through the fixture arm.

Test each fixture wire by attaching the clip of the multimeter to one end of the wire and touching the probe to other end. If there is no continuity, the wire must be replaced. Install new wires, if needed, then reassemble and rehang the chandelier.

A fluorescent light works by directing electrical current through a special gas-filled tube that glows when energized. A translucent diffuser protects the fluorescent tube and softens the light. A coverplate protects a special transformer, called a ballast. The ballast regulates the flow of 120-volt household current to the sockets. The sockets transfer power to metal pins that extend into the tube.

Fluorescent light fixtures usually contain a small cylindrical or button-shaped device, called a starter, located near one of the sockets. When a tube begins to flicker, replace both the tube and the starter. Turn off the power, and remove the starter by pushing it slightly and turning it counterclockwise. Install a replacement that matches the old starter.

FLOURESCENT LAMPS

The “bulb” in a fluorescent light fixture is technically called a “lamp.” Replacing a failed one is a bit trickier than screwing in a new lightbulb, and so is selecting the correct replacement lamp.

The surest way to obtain the correct fluorescent lamp is simply to bring the old lamp to the store with you and find an identical one. Most hardware stores will dispose of your old lamp for you, although some may tack on a small environmental charge for the service. Or, you can find the lamp type printed near its end. The type information starts with the letter “T,” which stands for “tube,” as in “T12.” The one-or-two-digit numeral following the T indicates the diameter in eighth-inches. So a T12 (the most common size) is 12/8” in dia., or 1 1/2”. The T rating is usually preceded by an “F” and a numeral, which is the length of the lamp in inches. So a 40” lamp would be “F40.” Length measurements include the pins. If you match the F and T ratings, the lamp should fit.

If you are unsure if the lamp is burned out, make a visual inspection. The top lamp is fine and shows no blackening; the middle lamp is headed to failure and may flicker—replace it; the bottom lamp is burned out. If you have a multimeter, you can perform a continuity test on the lamp to assess its condition.

Light color

You’ll find a number of color choices, which is really a reference to the temperature of the light. In most hardware stores and building centers, you’ll see:

Remove the fluorescent lamp by rotating it 1/4 turn in either direction and sliding the tube out of both sockets at the same time. Do not force it. To install a new lamp, align the pins on each end with the slot in each socket, insert the lamp into the sockets, and then twist it 1/4 turn in either direction until it is locked securely (inset photo). Reattach the diffuser and turn on the power at the switch.

Detach the faulty socket from the fixture housing. Some sockets slide out, while others must be unscrewed.

Disconnect the wires attaching the socket to the ballast. For sockets with push-in fittings, remove the wires by inserting a small screwdriver into the release openings. If your socket has screw terminal connections, loosen the screw and detach the wires. If your socket has lead wires that are fixed within the socket (as seen above), the wires must be cut.

Bring the socket to the hardware store and use it as a guide to find the correct replacement. Connect the socket wires to the ballast wires by making the push-in or screw terminal connections at the socket, or by joining the ballast and socket wires with a wire connector if your socket has preattached wires (as seen above). Replace the coverplate and then the fluorescent lamp and diffuser. Restore power to the fixture at the panel and test.

Bring the old ballast to the store and purchase a replacement ballast with the same wattage rating and physical configuration. Secure the new ballast to the fixture housing with the mounting screws.

Attach the ballast wires to the socket wires using wire connectors, screw terminal connections, or push-in fittings (see previous page). Reinstall the coverplate, and fluorescent lamp. Turn on power to the light fixture at the panel and test. Reattach the diffuser.

Ceiling fans are subject to a great deal of vibration and stress, so it’s not uncommon for switches and motors to fail. Minimize wear and tear by making sure blades are in balance so the fan doesn’t wobble.

If wobble persists, try switching around two of the blades. Often this is all it takes to get the fan back into balance. If a blade is damaged or warped, replace it.

OPTION: Fan blade wobble also may be corrected using small weights that are affixed to the tops of the blades. For an easy DIY fix, you can use electrical tape and washer and some trial and error. You can also purchase fan blade weight kits for a couple of dollars. These kits include clips for marking the position of the weights as you relocate them as well as self-adhesive weights that can be stuck to the blade once you have found the sweet spot.

Once the canopy is removed, you’ll see black, white, green, copper, and possibly blue wires. Hold a voltage sensor within 1/2” of these wires with the wall switch that controls the fan in the ON position. The black and blue wires should cause the sensor to beep if power is present.

Shut off power and test the wires by placing a voltage sensor within 1/2” of the wires. If the sensor beeps or lights up, then the circuit is still live and is not safe to work on. When the sensor does not beep or light up, the circuit is dead and may be worked upon.

When you have confirmed that there is no power, check all the wire connections to make certain each is tight and making good contact. You may be able to see that a connection has come apart and needs to be remade. But even if you see one bad connection, check them all by gently tugging on the wire connectors. If the wires pull out of the wire connector or the connection feels loose, unscrew the wire connector from the wires. Turn the power back on and see if the problem has been solved.

Test the wires by placing a voltage sensor within 1/2” of the wires. If the sensor beeps or lights up, then the circuit is still live and is not safe to work on. When the sensor does not beep or light up, the circuit is dead and may be worked upon.

Locate the switch unit (the part that the pull chain used to be attached to if it broke off); it’s probably made of plastic. You’ll need to replace the whole switch. Fan switches are connected with three to eight wires, depending on the number of speed settings.

Attach a small piece of tape to each wire that enters the switch and write an identifying number on the tape. Start at one side of the switch and label the wires in the order they’re attached.

Disconnect the old switch wires, in most cases by cutting the wires off as close to the old switch as possible.

Remove the switch. Unscrew the retaining nut that secures the switch to the switch housing. There may be one or two screws that hold it in place or it may be secured to the outside of the fan with a small knurled nut, which you can loosen with needle-nose pliers. Purchase an identical new switch.

Connect the new switch using the same wiring configuration as on the old model. To make connections, first use a wire stripper to strip 3/4” of insulation from the ends of each of the wires coming from the fan motor (the ones you cut in step 5). Attach the wires to the new switch in the same order and configuration as they were attached to the old switch. Secure the new switch in the housing, and make sure all wires are tucked neatly inside. Reattach the bottom cap. Restore power to the fan. Test all the fan’s speeds to make sure all the connections are good.

Common replaceable plug types

Feed unstripped wire through the rear of the plug casing. Spread the prongs, and then insert the wire into the opening in the rear of the core. Squeeze the prongs together; spikes inside the core penetrate the cord. Slide the casing over the core until it snaps into place.

When replacing a polarized plug, make sure that the ridged half of the cord lines up with the wider (neutral) prong of the plug.

Tie an underwriter’s knot with the black and the white wires. Make sure the knot is located close to the edge of the stripped outer insulation. Pull the cord so that the knot slides into the plug body.

Hook the end of the black wire clockwise around the brass screw and the white wire around the silver screw. On a three-prong plug, attach the third wire to the grounding screw. If necessary, excess grounding wire can be cut away.

Tighten the screws securely, making sure the copper wires do not touch each other. Replace the insulating faceplate.

Hook the ends of the wires clockwise around the screw terminals and tighten the screw terminals securely. Reassemble the plug casing. Some plugs may have an insulating faceplate that must be installed.

Under the outer shell, there is a cardboard insulating sleeve. Pull this off and you’ll reveal the socket attached to the end of the cord.

With the shell and insulation set aside, pull the socket away from the lamp (it will still be connected to the cord). Unscrew the two screws to completely disconnect the socket from the cord. Set the socket aside with its shell (you’ll need them to reassemble the lamp).

Remove the old cord from the lamp by grasping the cord near the base and pulling the cord through the lamp.

Bring your damaged cord to a hardware store or home center and purchase a similar cord set. (A cord set is simply a replacement cord with a plug already attached.) Snake the end of the cord up from the base of the lamp through the top so that about 3” of cord is visible above the top.

Carefully separate the two halves of the cord. If the halves won’t pull apart, you can carefully make a cut in the middle with a knife. Strip away about 3/4” of insulation from the end of each wire.

Connect the ends of the new cord to the two screws on the side of the socket (one of which will be silver in color, the other brass colored). One half of the cord will have ribbing or markings along its length; wrap that wire clockwise around the silver screw, and tighten the screw. The other half of the cord will be smooth; wrap it around the brass screw, and tighten the screw.

Set the socket on the base. Make sure the switch isn’t blocked by the harp—the part that holds the shade on some lamps. Slide the cardboard insulating sleeve over the socket so the sleeve’s notch aligns with the switch. Now slide the outer sleeve over the socket, aligning the notch with the switch. It should snap into the base securely. Screw in a lightbulb, plug the lamp in, and test it.

Sinks, sink drains, faucets, and toilets are the fixtures that need repair attention most often. They are relatively simple to deal with in most cases: the trick is to locate the right replacement parts and do careful work that results in good, durable seals.

Branch-line shutoff valves control water supply to multiple fixtures in a specific area of your home. They generally appear in pairs, as the plumbing supply runs in parallel pipes (one hot, one cold). Gate valves are seen above. You can usually distinguish the hot line from the cold simply by feeling it. If you are unsure which is which, shut them both off in an emergency.

Fixture shutoff valves, often called stop valves, are located in an accessible spot next to an individual fixture such as a sink or toilet. Stop valves are required by code on new work, but many older fixtures may not have them, in which case locate the branch line shutoff valve or the main shutoff valve.

In-line supply tube shutoffs are located at points where a supply line has been tapped into to bring water to a low-demand fixture, such as an ice maker. Saddle valves like the one seen above are very common, but some codes do not allow them and professional plumbers seldom use them because they are prone to failure. Cutting the supply line and permanently installing a T-valve is a better (albeit more time-consuming) solution. On a saddle valve, you simply turn the handle to stop the water flow.

An older toilet may have a tank ball that settles onto the flush valve to stop the flow of water into the bowl. The ball is attached to a lift wire, which is in turn attached to the lift rod. A ballcock valve is usually made of brass, with rubber washers that can wear out. If the ballcock valve malfunctions, you might be able to find old washers to repair it, but replacing both the ballcock and the tank ball with a float-cup assembly and flapper is easier and makes for a more durable repair.

A modern float-cup valve with flapper is inexpensive and made of plastic, but it is more reliable than an old ballcock valve and ball.

Bowl not refilling well? The rim holes may be clogged. Most toilets have small holes on the underside of the bowl rim, through which water squirts during a flush. If you notice that some of these holes are clogged, use a stiff-bristled brush to clear out debris. You may need to first apply toilet bowl cleaner or mineral cleaner.

Toilet running (float cup)? A float-cup fill valve is made of plastic and is easy to adjust. Lower the water level by pinching the spring clip with fingers or pliers and moving the clip and cup down the pull rod and shank. Raise the water level by moving the clip and cup upward.

Toilet running (diaphragm fill valve)? A diaphragm-type fill valve usually is made of plastic and has a wide bonnet that contains a rubber diaphragm. Turn the adjustment screw clockwise to lower the water level and counterclockwise to raise it.

If the fill valve spins while you turn the mounting nut, hold the nut and the valve base with locking pliers. Lift out the old fill valve once it is disconnected.

Insert the properly adjusted fill valve into the tank opening, making sure the area around the tank opening is clean so the rubber washer seats properly.

From outside the tank, thread the locknut onto the threaded end of the valve shank. Hand tighten, then use a wrench to make an extra 1/4 turn. Set the outlet end of the supply tube against the valve and then tighten the supply-tube coupling, first by hand then with a 1/4 turn of a wrench. Do not overtighten.

Attach one end of the refill tube to the fill valve and clip the other end to the top of the overflow pipe (some overflow pipes have caps to which you connect the refill tube). The end of the tube should not project more than 1/4” or so into the overflow pipe.

Turn the water on fully. Tighten any fitting that drips water. You can adjust the water level in the tank by squeezing the spring clip on the float cup with needle-nose pliers and moving the cup up or down on the link bar. Test the flush.

Unhook the chain from the handle lever arm and remove the tank. Carefully place it upside-down on an old towel. Remove the spud washer and spud nut from the base of the flush valve using a spud wrench or large channel-type pliers. Remove the old flush valve.

Place the new flush valve in the valve hole and check to see if the top of the overflow pipe is at least 1” below the critical level line (see previous page) and the tank opening where the handle is installed. If the pipe is too tall, cut it to length with a hacksaw.

Inside the tank, position the flush valve flapper and, from the tank underside, secure it with the spud nut. Tighten the nut 1/2 turn past hand tight with a spud wrench or large channel-type pliers.

CAUTION: Overtightening may cause the tank to break. Place the spud washer over the spud nut.

With the tank lying on its back, thread a rubber washer onto each tank bolt and insert the bolts into the bolt holes from inside the tank. Then, thread a brass washer and intermediate hex nut (an option that simply isolates the tank and bowl by creating a slight gap between them). Tighten to a quarter turn past hand tight.

With the hex nuts tightened against the tank bottom, carefully lower the tank over the bowl and set it down so the spud washer seats neatly over the water inlet in the bowl and the tank bolts fit through the holes in the bowl flange. Secure the tank to the bowl with a rubber washer, brass washer, and nut or wing nut at each bolt end. Press the tank to level as you hand-tighten the nuts. Hook up the water supply at the fill valve inlet.

Connect the chain clip to the handle lever arm and adjust the number of links to allow for a little slack in the chain when the flapper is closed. Leave a little tail on the chain for adjusting, cutting off any excess. Attach the refill tube to the top of the overflow pipe. Turn on the water supply at the stop valve and test.

Not all plungers are created equal. The standard plunger (left) is simply an inverted rubber cup and is used to plunge sinks, tubs, and showers. The flanged plunger, also called a force cup, is designed to get down into the trap of a toilet drain. You can fold the flange up into the flanged plunger cup and use it as a standard plunger.

The trap is the most common catching spot for toilet clogs. Once the clog forms, flushing the toilet cannot generate enough water power to clear the trap, so flush water backs up. Traps on modern 1.6-gallon toilets have been redesigned to larger diameters and are less prone to clogs than the first generation of 1.6-gallon toilets.

A closet auger is a semirigid cable housed in a tube. The tube has a bend at the end so it can be snaked through a toilet trap (without scratching it) to snag blockages.

There should be enough water in the bowl to completely cover the plunger. Fold out the skirt from inside the plunger to form a better seal with the opening at the base of the bowl. Pump the plunger vigorously six times, take a rest, and then repeat. Try this for four to five cycles.

TIP: If you force enough water out of the bowl that you are unable to create suction with the plunger, put a controlled amount of water in the bowl by lifting up on the flush valve in the tank. Resume plunging. When you think the drain is clear, you can try a controlled flush, with your hand ready to close the flush valve should the water threaten to spill out of the bowl.

Rotate the handle on the auger housing clockwise as you push down on the rod, advancing the auger tip up into the trap. Work the cable back and forth as needed, but keep the rubber boot of the auger in the bowl. Rotate the auger counterclockwise to withdraw the blockage.

Fully retract the auger until you have recovered the object. This can be frustrating at times, but it is still a much easier task than the alternative—to remove the toilet and go fishing.

Weak water flow? The first place to look is the aerator. Unscrew the aerator (essentially a filter) at the tip of the spout. If the filter screen is plugged, clean it carefully with an old toothbrush and some white vinegar. Rinse and replace the aerator.

All faucets, no matter the type, have valves that move many thousands of times to open and close hot- and cold-water ports. These valves—or the rubber or plastic parts that rub against other parts when the faucet is being adjusted—wear out in time. Depending on the faucet, you may be able to fix the leak by cleaning or replacing small parts, such as washers or O-rings; or you may need to buy a repair kit and replace a number of parts; or the only solution may be to replace a self‑enclosed cartridge that contains all the moving parts.

IDENTIFYING YOUR FAUCET TYPE AND REPLACEMENT PARTS

A leaky faucet is the most common home plumbing problem. Fortunately, repair parts are available for almost every type of faucet, from the oldest to the newest, and installing these parts is usually easy. But if you don’t know your make and model, the hardest part of fixing a leak may be identifying your faucet and finding the right parts. Don’t make the common mistake of thinking that any similar-looking parts will do the job; you’ve got to get exact replacements.

Most faucets have corresponding repair kits, which include all the parts you need, and sometimes a small tool as well. Even if some of the parts in your faucet look fine, it’s a good idea to install the parts provided by the kit to ensure against future wear. Kits usually are labeled by maker as well as by type.

To inspect the inner workings of your faucet, you first need to remove handles and spouts. You likely will need to pry off a cap on top of the handle or handles, but not always. The spout base housing is usually held in place with a small setscrew installed with an Allen wrench or small screwdriver.

Remove the screw that holds the rubber washer in place and pry out the washer. Replace a worn washer with an exact replacement—one that is the same diameter, thickness, and shape. Gently pry out the old O-ring and reinstall an exact replacement. Apply plumber’s grease to the rubber parts before reinstalling the stem.

If washers wear out quickly, the seat is likely worn. Use a seat wrench to unscrew the seat from inside the faucet. Replace it with an exact duplicate. If replacing the washer and O-ring doesn’t solve the problem, you may need to replace the entire stem.

Remove the faucet handle and withdraw the old cartridge. Make a note of how the cartridge is oriented before you remove it. Purchase a replacement cartridge.

Install the replacement cartridge. Clean the valve seat first and coat the valve seat and O-rings with faucet grease. Be sure the new cartridge is in the correct position, with its tabs seated in the slotted body of the faucet. Reassemble the valve and handles and test.

Lift out the spout. If the faucet has a diverter valve, remove it as well. Use a screwdriver or needle-nose pliers to pry out the retainer clip, which holds the cartridge in place.

Remove the cartridge. If you simply pull up with pliers, you may leave part of the stem in the faucet body. If that happens, replace the cartridge and buy a stem puller made for your model.

Gently pry out and replace all O-rings on the faucet body. Smear plumber’s grease onto the new replacement cartridge and the new O-rings, reassemble the faucet, and test.

VARIATIONS: Here is one of many other types of single-handle cartridges. In this model, all the parts are plastic except for the stem, and it’s important to note the direction in which the cartridge is aligned. If you test the faucet and the hot and cold are reversed, disassemble and realign the cartridge.

Pry out the neoprene valve seals and springs. Place thick towels around the faucet. Slowly turn on the water to flush out any debris in the faucet body. Replace the seals and springs with new parts. Also replace the O-rings on the valve body. You may want to replace the ball and cam too, especially if you’re purchasing a repair kit. Coat all rubber parts in faucet grease, and reassemble the faucet.

Replace the cylinder with a new one, coating the rubber parts with faucet grease before installing the new cylinder. Make sure the rubber seals fit correctly in the cylinder openings before you install the cylinder. Assemble the faucet handle.

The standard sprayer hose attachment is connected to a nipple at the bottom of the faucet valve. When the lever of the sprayer is depressed, water flows from a diverter valve in the faucet body out to the sprayer. If your sprayer stream is weak or doesn’t work at all, the chances are good that the problem lies in the diverter valve.

Replacing the diverter valve may solve low-flow problems if you do not wish to replace the entire sprayer. Diverter valves can usually be located by removing the faucet housing. Extract the valve, find a replacement, and reassemble the faucet and sprayer.

The spray head base is held in place by a small metal C-clip. Remove the rubber washer to expose the C-clip. Use needle-nose pliers to grab the clip and spread it until it pops out of its ridge and releases from the base. Remove the C-clip and base.

Secure the hose from slipping down the hole, if necessary. Buy a head to match the one you’re replacing. Disassemble the new head and slide the new base onto the existing hose. Secure the base in place with a C-clip, cover with the rubber washer, and secure the sprayer on the base by hand-tightening the mounting nut.

Clogged lavatory sinks can be cleared with a plunger (not to be confused with a flanged force cup). Remove the pop-up drain plug and strainer first and plug the overflow hole by stuffing a wet rag into it, allowing you to create air pressure with the plunger.

Remove any debris. Clean the trap bend with a small wire brush. Inspect the slip nut washers and replace if necessary. Reinstall the trap bend and tighten the slip nuts.

If there is a second basin, have a helper hold a basket strainer plug in its drain or put a large pot or bucket full of water on top of it. Unfold the skirt within the plunger and place this in the drain of the sink you are plunging. There should be enough water in the sink to cover the plunger head. Plunge rhythmically for six repetitions with increasing vigor, pulling up hard on the last repetition. Repeat this sequence until the clog is removed. Flush out a cleared pipe with plenty of hot water.

If you suspect the clog is downstream of the trap, remove the trap arm from the fitting at the wall. Look in the fixture drain with a flashlight. If you see water, that means the fixture drain is plugged. Clear it with a hand-crank or drill-powered auger.

Tub/shower plumbing is notorious for developing drips from the tub spout and the showerhead. In most cases, the leak can be traced to the valves controlled by the faucet handles.

A three-handle tub/shower faucet has individual controls for hot and cold water plus a third handle that operates the diverter valve.

Remove the bonnet nut with an adjustable wrench or channel-type pliers.

Unscrew the stem assembly using a deep-set ratchet wrench. If necessary, chip away any mortar surrounding the bonnet nut.

Remove the brass stem screw. Replace the stem washer with an exact duplicate. If the stem screw is worn, replace it.

Unscrew the threaded spindle from the retaining nut. Clean sediment and lime buildup from the nut using a small wire brush dipped in vinegar. Coat all parts with faucet grease and reassemble the diverter valve.

A two-handle tub/shower faucet can operate with compression valves, but more often these days they contain cartridges that can be replaced. Unlike a three-handle model, the diverter is a simple gate valve that is operated by a lever.

Chip away any mortar surrounding the bonnet nut using a ball-peen hammer and a small cold chisel.

Unscrew the bonnet nut with a deep-set ratchet wrench. Remove the bonnet nut and stem from the faucet body.

A single-handle tub/shower faucet is the simplest type to operate and to maintain. The handle controls the mixing ratio of both hot and cold water, and the diverter is a simple gate valve.

Turn off the water supply at the built-in shutoff valves or the main shutoff valve.

Unscrew and remove the retaining ring or bonnet nut using adjustable-wrench.

Remove the cartridge assembly by grasping the end of the valve with channel-type pliers and pulling gently.

Flush the valve body with clean water to remove sediment. Replace any worn O-rings. Reinstall the cartridge and test the valve. If the faucet fails to work properly, replace the cartridge.

The temperature of your shower may drastically rise to dangerous, scalding levels if a nearby toilet is flushed. A shower fixture equipped with an antiscald valve prevents this sometimes dangerous situation.

To remove a balancing valve, you may need to buy a removal tool made for your faucet. Before replacing, slowly turn on water to flush out any debris; use a towel or bucket to keep water from entering the inside of the wall.

A typical showerhead can be disassembled easily for cleaning and repair. Some showerheads include a spray adjustment cam lever that is used to change the force of the spray.

Clean outlet and inlet holes of the showerhead with a thin wire. Flush the head with clean water.

Replace the O-ring, if necessary. Lubricate the O-ring with faucet grease before installing.

Attach the new showerhead mounting bracket by screwing the mounting nut end onto the end of the shower arm (you don’t need Teflon tape for this because the bracket has an internal rubber washer). Hand-tighten the bracket until it is snug and the large side of the mounting slot on the end is pointing up and the hose connection is pointing down.

Attach the mounting nut end of the showerhead hose to the hose connection on the bracket. Hand-tighten the hose mounting nut. Do not use pliers for this.

Screw the showerhead base onto the conical end of the showerhead hose and slip the cone base into the mounting bracket. Turn on the water and check that there are no leaks. If you find any, turn the water off and hand-tighten the connection further until it does not leak.

NOTE: The hose may curl up awkwardly; time and exposure to hot water will soon slacken the hose to hang normally.