Loose materials can be used as filler between solid surface materials, like flagstone, or laid as the primary ground cover, as seen here.

Remove sod in the walkway area using a sod stripper or a power sod cutter. Excavate the soil to a depth of 4 to 6”. Measure down from a 2 × 4 placed across the path bed to fine-tune the excavation. Grade the bottom of the excavation flat using a garden rake. Note: If mulch will be used outside the path, make the excavation shallower by the depth of the mulch. Compact the soil with a plate compactor or tamper.

Lay landscaping fabric from edge to edge, lapping over the undisturbed ground on either side of the path. On straight sections, you may be able to run parallel to the path with a single strip; on curved paths, it’s easier to lay the fabric perpendicular to the path. Overlap all seams by 6”.

Install edging over the fabric. The top edge should be 1/2” above grade if the path passes through grass or 2” above grade if it passes through a mulched area. Secure the edging with spikes. To install the second edge, use a 2 × 4 spacer gauge that’s been notched to fit over your edging.

A stepping stone path is both a practical and appealing way to traverse a landscape. With large stones as foot landings, you are free to use pretty much any type of fill material in between.

Stepping stones in a path serve two purposes: they lead the eye, and they carry the traveler. In both cases, the goal is rarely fast, direct transport, but more of a relaxing stroll that’s comfortable, slow paced, and above all, natural.

Sometimes steppers are placed more for visual effect, with the knowledge that their primary goal is to be artful clusters of stones. Clustering is also an effective way to slow or congregate walkers near a fork in the path or at a good vantage point for a striking feature of the garden.

In the project featured here, landscape edging is used to contain the loose infill material (small aggregate); however a stepping stone path can also be effective without edging. For example, setting a series of steppers directly into your lawn and letting the lawn grass grow between them is a great choice as well.

Brick or concrete pavers set in sand make for one of the simplest yet most rewarding and most forgiving patio projects. The installation process is straightforward and, because there’s no mortar involved, you can complete the work at your own pace. Plus, as the freeze-thaw cycle and other forces inevitably cause some shifting, it is simple to maintain the patio simply by adding or removing sand from beneath the individual pavers.

Square-edged patios require fewer cuts and thus less time than curved designs. But if you want something out of the ordinary, sand-set brick is a good material to work with—the small units are perfect for making curves and custom features; even if you have a lot of cuts, you can make them quickly and accurately with a rented masonry wet saw.

To pave with any of the classic patterns, such as running bond or herringbone, you’ll start at one corner of your patio border or edging. To ensure accurate layout, check that the sides of the edging form a 90-degree angle at the starting corner. If you’re not using edging or any kind of formal border, set up mason’s strings to guide the brick placement.

Patios made with rock or masonry units should have a stable subbase of compacted rock or gravel, usually beneath a layer of coarse sand into which the surfacing materials are set. Typically, these subbase layers are 6 to 8 inches thick, depending on your soil conditions—loose, loamy, or sandy soil needs a thicker subbase. A standard subbase made from compactable gravel (called Class II or Class V in most areas) hardens to form a solid mass when it is compacted. Water runoff will not penetrate such a subbase. Patio builders have begun to recognize a higher demand for water retention and for minimizing runoff, and they have developed permeable subbases that stabilize the patio, while still allowing water to seep through into the subsoil below instead of running off and into the wastewater collection system.

The key to a permeable subbase is called “open-grade” drainage rock. Where Class II and Class V are sifted with fine pulverized material (usually limestone) that hardens, ungraded drainage rock is just a rock. Most landscape-material stores carry it in two sizes: 3/4-inch aggregate and 1- to 1/2-inch aggregate. The prevailing wisdom suggests placing a layer of the larger rock first, compacting it, and then topping it off with a compacted layer of the smaller drainage rock before you put down your sand bed (if you are using one). Once you’ve created a permeable subbase, it will look and function very much like a traditional subbase.

A permeable subbase is of little value if you top it with an impermeable or minimally permeable surfacing, such as interlocking pavers. Use either material that allows water to drain through it (such as pervious pavers), or install impermeable materials with large enough gaps between the individual members that the water will run off and drain through the gaps.

Begin excavating the site. A typical permeable subbase is 8” below grade when you allow for the thickness of the setting layer and the pavers or other surfacing. Use your layout strings to establish your digging depth. Measure the distance from the mason’s line to the ground and add the depth of your excavation—8” in the project seen here. Make a story pole with markings that match the distance from the planned bottom of the excavation to the mason’s line. Keep the lines in place as you dig (this does create an obstacle but it is the best way to assure that you don’t overdig).

Excavate the patio site using the story pole as a depth guide. Be sure to call (in the US, simply dial 811) and have any utility lines flagged before you begin digging. Be careful not to dig too deeply, as the best base for your subbase is undisturbed earth. Once the excavation is complete, remove the strings and prepare for the installation of the subbase.

A permeable base is made with open-grade rock, which is simply landscape rock that has no fines or binders, as typical subbase (often called Class II or Class V) does. The bottom layer should be rock that is not smooth and has a diameter of 11/2” to 2”. Spread a 2”- to 4”-deep layer of rock over the excavation area.

Spread the rock out into an even layer. Use a garden rake or landscape rake to spread it. The subbase should extend past the planned edges of the project area by at least 10” on all open sides.

Tamp the rock to compact it. You can use a hand tamper, but for best results use a rented plate compactor. This is a very important part of creating a solid patio base, so be sure to be diligent with your efforts. Compact the rock as you go, and do not compact more than 2” of material at one time. Wear foam ear plugs or other ear protection. Add additional layers of large rock until the base layer is at least 4” thick. Then, switch to a smaller open-grade rock for the next layer. Here, 3/4”-dia. buff limestone is being used. Add, spread, and compact the smaller-grade rock until the leveled surface follows the grade of the patio and the surface of the rock layer is 2”, plus the thickness of your surfacing material, below grade at the top of the worksite. Add a sand-setting layer and pavers according to the demands of your project.

Larger gaps between pavers, coupled with a permeable subbase, allow for a patio that lets water drain down instead of running off.

The 16” × 16” wet-cast concrete pavers would shed rainwater and runoff if they were butted against one another in the traditional manner. By leaving a 3” gap filled with pulverized granite, you create a route for water to soak into the permeable subbase and subsoil.

Embed 1”-dia. pieces of conduit into the sand at 4- to 6-foot intervals, making sure the conduit pieces are flush with one another and follow the slope you want to build into the patio. Screed using a piece of straight 2 × 4 over the conduit to level the paver setting medium. Slowly move the 2 × 4 back and forth in a sawing motion. Avoid walking on the setting bed once it is smooth. Remove the conduit and backfill the depressions.

Lay a setting bed that is at least 2” thick on top of the subbase. Level the setting bed. Do not use a power plate compactor on this bed, as it will make adjusting the pavers very difficult. It is okay to use a hand tamper to level and lightly compact the material.

Starting at a corner, set four tiles, using a cross spacer (see previous page) to position the pavers. Note: When using spacers to lay out a patio next to a house, always start at the house and work outward. In cases where you are working in a closed corner, choose that corner to start. That way, if the corner is slightly out of square, which is common, you can make it up at the open sides of the patio where it is less noticeable.

Continue to set pavers onto the setting bed, fanning outward from the corner where you started. Rely on the spacer to position the pavers, and go back to recheck the gaps as you work. For best results, make many spacers and leave them in place as you work.

Once you’ve set several pavers, check to make sure you are staying level. Lay a straight 2 × 4 across the tops and look for gaps between the straightedge and the pavers.

Add or remove bedding base from beneath the pavers as needed to bring them to level. Use some restraint here, as it is very easy to throw off your layout by adding too much bedding.

Use a rubber mallet and a scrap of 2 × 4 to adjust misaligned pavers. Again, use restraint here and be mindful of the lines formed by the grid pattern. Even slight deviations will show up very clearly.

Place all the pavers, then add filler between the pavers. Here, the same crushed (also called composted) granite that was used for the setting base is used to fill in the gaps. Keep a supply of the material around, as it is likely you’ll need to refresh it from time to time as the level gets lower.

Option: Fill the spaces between the pavers with topsoil or potting soil so you can add attractive groundcover plants that don’t mind being underfoot. Some may even add a pleasant fragrance as you walk across them. For areas with full sun, consider creeping thyme or elfin thyme. In partial sun, goldmoss sedum, chamomile, dichondra, and Irish moss work well. In shady areas, go with Corsican sandwort or sweet woodruff. Or, simply plant grass.

These pavers are not permeable themselves (as some are), but they are placed in installation grids that allow water to pass through. The pavers seen here are relatively thin and can be installed in their grids directly onto an existing patio surface, or they can be set onto a paver base as traditional sand-set masonry units.

The installation grids on which these pavers are fitted allow water runoff to drain into the subbase as it filters down through the gaps between the composite paver units.

In general, recycled composite products weigh less than solid stone or wood, and because the size is uniform they can be laid in traditional paver patterns like basket weave or herringbone. The VAST pavers seen here (see Resources) come in five colors so you can incorporate color shifts into the layout pattern.

Lay out several grids on the bedding layer. These rest on the bedding layer and are held together by installing the pavers so they bridge the joints between the grids. Plan how to begin your pattern of choice—herringbone, basket weave, or running bond—so that at least one paver overlaps two grids in each direction.

Install the pavers, beginning in one corner and working across one side of the patio. Often the side along the house works best for starting to avoid having to cut too many pavers. Complete the field of the patio. Here, a basket weave pattern is being used. One advantage to the basket weave, compared to herringbone (inset), is that the basket weave does not require half-size pavers.

Use a charged hose (one with the water turned on but the sprayer off) to mark a curved edge, if your design calls for one. Lay out the curve and carefully mark it for cutting.

Cut the curved edge with a jigsaw equipped with a coarse blade set just deep enough to cut through the pavers. You may need to attach a guide block to the foot of the saw to avoid cutting into the grids. But you can also cut the grids in place at the same time if you wish. Or, simply leave them and cover them with backfill. Note that any whole unused pavers can be easily lifted out and used elsewhere.

Use wedge-shaped pavers to create a decorative border treatment for the curve. Dry-fit the edge pavers first, since they are legless and do not lock into the installation grid. When satisfied, remove each piece. Add beads of landscape block adhesive and reset the border pieces. Complete any straight edges in the same manner. Check with the product manufacturer first to see if they recommend a specific brand or type of adhesive.

Add edging, securing it with 10” galvanized spikes every foot or so. Trim the grid with a jigsaw or cover it with soil and turf. If you wish, sweep chip rock onto the surface before tamping the entire surface. Sweep additional rock into the cracks as you tamp. Chip rock, also called pulverized or decomposed granite, will fill the gaps and stabilize the surface without blocking water drainage.

Turn a boring or failing concrete slab into an attractive walkout or entertainment space with a short utility, or boardwalk, deck installed on top of it.

Install the nailer joists by measuring and cutting parallel boards to the length of the frame. Use 2” deck screws and galvanized metal corner brackets to secure the nailer joists to the frame.

Clear away any dust and debris from the concrete slab. Set the frame atop the slab and use 8” plastic shims to level it. Glue shims in place and cut off excess so shims are flush with the frame.

Use a level as you work with the shims to ensure an even plane on which to build the deck.

Remove the frame from the slab before installing the decking. Stagger the 2 × 4s in a crosshatch pattern in opposing 45-degree angles from the center nailing joist. Attach the boardwalk pattern to the frame using 3” deck screws. Boards should abut one another along the length of the joist and allow for at least 1” of overhang from the frame.

Mark 1” overhang on all sides of the frame using a chalk line, and cut off excess decking using a circular saw equipped with a carbide blade.

Use a helper to install the decking atop the concrete slab, checking for level and using shims to adjust as necessary.

Clear away dust and debris and stain the decking as desired.

A full-size deck with no posthole digging? Yes, it can be done.

Set a 10-foot-long 2 × 6 joist on edge in the slots of the three pier blocks along one end of each row. Hold a carpenter’s level along the top of the joist as a helper raises or lowers the lowest end of the joist. With the helper holding the joist level, measure any gaps between the bottom of the joist and the pier block sockets.

Cut 4 × 4 posts to match the gap measurements, and place the posts in the pier block sockets. Set the 2 × 6 joist on top of the posts, if any, and check for level again. Adjust as necessary. Only screw the joists down when the preliminary “box” for the frame is complete.

Cut 2 × 6 band joists for the ends of the floor joists. The band joists will be 493/4 inches long. Measure and mark the band joist so that it will extend equal lengths from both sides of where it is screwed to the floor joists. The first two opposite band joists complete the box.

Check diagonal measurements of the foundation center box. This must be square because the rest of the deck is built off the box. If the diagonal measurements are off at all, adjust the “box” until they match.

Complete the center of the deck frame by screwing the center joist into place, attaching it to the band joists on either end. Cut 4 × 4 posts as necessary to keep the joist level along its length and in relation to the two outside joists. Screw the joists to their 4 × 4 posts in toenail fashion.

Cut and position the outer floor joists in the octagon, leveling them in place as before. There should be a row of three piers and a row of two piers on each side of the center box.

Install the blocking to support the side piers. Once level, screw the outside joist to the 4 × 4 posts (if any) with the joist positioned so that the overhang on both sides is equal.

Drive 3” screws through the mitered ends to secure the band joists to one another. Use three screws per connection. Complete the outside frame by screwing diagonal band joists onto the mitered ends of the middle floor joists, and to the band joists.

Install the decking boards, allowing for overhang that will be trimmed at the end of construction. Begin laying the decking at one edge of the octagon so that the decking lays perpendicular to the floor joists.

Lay the rest of the decking boards by screwing them down to the joists, maintaining 1/8” spacing between boards. Screw down each decking board using two 3” deck screws per joist.

When all the decking boards have been screwed down, snap a chalk line along the edges over which the deck boards hang; use a circular saw equipped with a carbide blade to cut the deck board ends so that the decking is flush with the band joists. Stain, paint, or finish the deck as you prefer, including the rim joists. Add other built-on structures to suit your needs.

Building with wood fence panels is a great time-saver and allows you to create a more elaborate fence than you may be able to build from scratch. Well-planned and designed fences can be important, pleasing parts of the landscape. Using two complementary fence styles can add visual interest.

Metal fence panel hangers make quick work of hanging panels and offer a slight amount of wiggle room if the panel is up to 1/2” narrower than the space between posts.

With some panel styles, the best tactic is to flatten the lower tab after attaching it to the post and then bend it up or down against the panel frame once the panel is in place.

Dig the first posthole for a corner or end post using a clamshell digger or power auger. Add 6” of gravel into the hole, and tamp it flat. Set, plumb, and brace the first post with cross bracing.

Dig the second posthole using a 2 × 4 spacer to set the distance between posts (cut the spacer to the same length as the stringers on the preassembled fence panels).

Fill the first posthole with concrete or with tamped soil and gravel. Tamp the concrete with a 2 × 4 as you fill the hole. Let the concrete set.

Install the stringer brackets onto the first post using corrosion-resistant screws or nails. Shorter fences may have two brackets, while taller fences typically have three. Note: The bottom of the fence siding boards should be at least 2” above the ground when the panel is installed.

Set the first panel into the brackets. Shim underneath the free end of the panel with scrap lumber so that the stringers are level and the panel is properly aligned with the fenceline. Fasten the panel to the brackets with screws or nails.

Mark the second post for brackets. Set the post in its hole and hold it against the fence panel. Mark the positions of the panel stringers for installing the brackets. Remove the post and install the stringer brackets, as before.

Reset the second post, slipping the ends of the panel stringers into the brackets. Brace the post so it is plumb, making sure the panel remains level and is aligned with the fenceline. Fasten the brackets to the panel with screws or nails.

Anchor the second post in concrete. After the concrete sets, continue building the fence, following steps 5 to 8. Option: You can wait to fill the remaining postholes with concrete until all of the panels are in place.

Attach the post caps after trimming the posts to their finished height (use a level mason’s line to mark all of the posts at the same height). Install the gate, if applicable.

Vinyl fencing is available in a wide range of traditional designs, including picket, post and board, open rail, and solid panel. Color options are generally limited to various shades of white, tan, and gray.

Dig the first posthole, following the manufacturer’s requirements for diameter and depth (improper hole dimensions can void the warranty). Add 4” to 6” (or as directed) of pea gravel to the bottom of the hole and tamp it down using a 2 × 4 or 4 × 4 so it is flat and level.

Attach the fence panel brackets to the first post using the provided screws. Dry fit a fence panel into the brackets, then measure from the top of the post to the bottom edge of the panel. Add 2” (or as directed) to represent the distance between the fence and the ground; the total dimension is the posts’ height above the ground.

Set up a post-top string to guide the post installation. Using the post height dimension, tie a mason’s string between temporary 2 × 4 supports so the string is centered over the post locations. Use a line level to make sure the string is level. Measure from the string to the ground in several places to make sure the height is suitable along the entire fence run.

Set the first post. Drop the post in its hole and align it with the fenceline string and height string. Install cross bracing to hold the post perfectly plumb. Tip: Secure bracing boards to the post with spring-type clamps or duct tape. Fill the posthole with concrete and let it set completely.

Determine the second post’s location by fitting a fence panel into the brackets on the first post. Mark the ground at the free edge of the panel. Measure out from the mark half the post width to find the center of the post hole (accounting for any additional room needed for the panel brackets.)

Complete the fence section. Dig the hole for the second post, add gravel, and tamp as before. Attach the panel brackets to the second post, set the post in place and check its height against the string line. Assemble the fence section with the provided screws. Confirm that the fence panel is level. Brace the second post in place (as shown) and anchor it with concrete. Repeat the same layout and construction steps to build the remaining fence sections. Add the post caps (inset). Depending on the product, caps may be installed with PVC cement or screws, or they may be fitted without fasteners. Add any additional decorative accessories, such as screw caps, to complete the installation.

A low picket fence adds curb appeal and a cozy sense of enclosure to a front yard or entry area without blocking views to or from the house.

Mark the stringer positions onto the posts. Measure down from each post top and make marks at 8” and 281/2” (or as desired for your design). These marks represent the top edges of the two stringer boards for each fence section.

Install the stringers. Measure between each pair of posts and cut the 2 × 4 stringers to fit. Drill angled pilot holes, and fasten the stringers to the posts with 31/2” deck screws or 16d galvanized common nails; drive one fastener in the bottom and top edges of each stringer end.

Cut the pickets to length. To save time, set up a stop block with the distance from the block to blade equal to the picket length. Shape the picket ends as desired. For straight-cut designs, use a miter saw with a stop block on the right side of the blade (the first pass cuts through the picket and the block). If the shape is symmetrical, such as this 90-degree point, cut off one corner, and then flip the board over and make the second cut—no measuring or adjusting is needed. You can paint the pickets before or after installing them.

Set up a string line to guide the picket installation. Clamp a mason’s string to two posts at the desired height for the tops of the pickets. Note: To help prevent rot and to facilitate grass trimming, plan to install the pickets at least 2” above the ground.

Install the pickets. Using a cleat spacer cut to the width of the picket gap, set each picket in place and drill even pairs of pilot holes into each stringer. Fasten the pickets with 2” deck screws. Check the first picket (and every few thereafter) for plumb with a level before piloting.

Add the post caps. Wood post caps (with or without metal cladding) offer an easy way to dress up plain posts while protecting the end grain from water. Install caps with galvanized or stainless steel finish nails, or as directed by the manufacturer. Apply the final finish coat or touch-ups to the entire fence.

A natural stone retaining wall blends into its surroundings immediately and only looks better with age. Building the wall with ashlar, or cut wall stone, is a much easier project than a wall built with round fieldstones or large boulders.

This single-row retaining wall has a 1/2” batter, created by setting each course of stone 1/2” back from the face of the course below. The base of the wall includes a compacted gravel subbase topped with sand to help level the first course of stones. Roots of plants sown into the wall crevices (an optional decorative embellishment) will eventually reach into the soil behind the wall.

Complete the wall base by tamping the soil in the trench, and then adding a 3” layer of compactable gravel and tamping it flat and level. Cover the gravel with landscape fabric, draping the fabric back over the slope. Add a 1” layer of sand over the fabric in the trench area. Smooth and level the sand with a short 2 × 4 screed board, checking for level with a torpedo level set on the board.

Set the first course with heavy stones, laying long, square-ended stones at the corners first. Set up a level mason’s string just in front of the top front edge of the course, letting the stones roughly guide the string placement. Add or remove sand beneath the stones as needed so they are nearly touching the string. Level the stones front to back with a torpedo level and side to side with a 4-foot level. If necessary, use a hand maul and stone chisel to chip off irregularities from the edges of the stones to improve their fit.

Begin the second course, starting with both ends of the wall face. Reset and level the mason’s string at the height of the second course. Place the second-course stones back 1/2” from the front edges of the first-course stones, overlapping all joints of the first course to create a bond pattern.

Shim beneath stones as needed to level them or add stability, using stone shards and chips. Complete the second course over the main part of the wall. Complete the returns, as applicable, maintaining the offset joint pattern with the first course. You may need to dig into the slope to create a level base for the return stones. Add a layer of compacted gravel under each return stone before setting it. Complete the remaining courses up to the final (capstone) course.

Backfill behind the base of the wall with drainage rock (not compactable gravel). For a low wall like this, 6” to 10” of gravel is usually sufficient; taller walls may require more gravel and possibly a drainage pipe. Pack the gravel down with a 2 × 4 to help it settle.

Fold the landscape fabric over the gravel, and backfill over the fabric with soil. The fabric is used to prevent the soil from migrating into the gravel and out through the wall stones. Trim the fabric just behind the back of the wall, near the top.

Install the final course using long, flat cap stones. Glue the caps in place with block and stone adhesive. After the glue dries, add soil behind the wall to the desired elevation for planting.

Landscape block for freestanding walls is versatile and an easy material with which to build. You can use it to create low walls of almost any shape, plus columns, steps, and other features. Block manufacturers offer a variety of styles and textures, along with compatible specialty and accessory pieces for a well-integrated look.

Round over the cut edges of blocks to match the original texture. Using a stone chisel and mason’s hammer or maul, carefully chip along the edges to achieve the desired look.

Cut blocks using a brickset or pitching chisel and a maul. First score along the cutting line all the way around the block, and then chisel at the line until the block splits. You can also cut a deep score line (on thick block) or cut completely through (on thin block) using a circular saw with a masonry blade.

Straight runs. Mark the outlines of the wall and/or excavation with stakes and mason’s string. Position one string, then measure from it to position any remaining strings as needed. Tip: Leave the stakes marking one of the wall faces in the ground; you’ll use them later to align the wall block.

Remove the sod and other plantings inside the excavation area. For a gravel base, the excavation should extend 6” beyond the wall on all sides. If you are building adjacent to a sandset patio with pavers, take care not to disturb the rigid paver edging. Alternatively, fully excavate the ground around the patio to compensate for the wall addition and install new edging around the perimeter.

Set up level lines to guide the excavation using stakes and mason’s string. For curved walls, you may need more than one string. Level the string with a line level (make sure multiple strings are level with one another). Measure from the string to ground level (grade), and then add 12”—the total depth required for the excavation.

Use a story pole to measure the depth as you complete the excavation. To make a story pole, mark the finished depth of the excavation onto a straight board, and use it to measure against the string; this is easier than pulling out your tape measure for each measurement.

Tamp the soil in the trench with a rented plate compactor or a hand tamper. The bottom of the trench should be flat and level, with the soil thoroughly compacted. Take care not to disturb or damage adjacent structures.

Spread compactable gravel over the trench in an even 2”- to 3”-thick layer. Tamp the gravel thoroughly. Add the remaining gravel and tamp to create a 6”-thick layer after compaction. Check the gravel base with a level (or a level taped to a straight board) to make sure the surface is uniform and perfectly level. Add gravel to any low spots and tamp again.

Set the first course. If you’re using more than one thickness of block, select only the thicker units for the first course. Lay out the blocks in the desired pattern along the layout line, butting the ends together for complete contact. If necessary, cut blocks to create the desired curve. Place a 4-foot level across the blocks to make sure they are level and flat across the tops.

Set the second course. Begin the course at the more visible end of the wall. Set the blocks in the desired pattern, making sure to overlap the block joints in the first course to create a bond pattern. Alternate different sizes of block, and check the entire course with a level. If necessary, cut a block for the end of the wall.

End each course with a piece no narrower than 6”. If necessary, position a full unit at the end of the wall, then measure back and cut the second-to-last unit to fit the space. Glue small end pieces in place with concrete adhesive.

Complete the remaining courses, following the desired pattern. Be sure to maintain a bond with the course below by overlapping the joints in the lower course. For the top two courses, glue each block in place with concrete adhesive.

Install the cap blocks. Trapezoidal cap block may fit your wall’s curve well enough without cuts (for gentle curves, try alternating the cap positions). If cuts are necessary, dry fit the pieces along the wall, and plan to cut every other block on both side edges for an even fit. Set all caps with concrete adhesive. Backfill along the wall to bury most or all of the first course.

Glue the second course and all subsequent courses in place with concrete adhesive or according to the manufacturer’s specifications.

Cap the column with special cap units, or create your own caps with flagstone squares. Glue cap pieces in place with concrete adhesive or mortar in between them, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Tip: The hollow space in the column’s center is ideal for running wiring for adding a light fixture on top of a cap.

Some pointers to consider when using your fire pit: 1) Make sure there are no bans in effect; 2) Evaluate wind conditions and avoid building a fire if winds are heavy and/or blowing toward your home; 3) Keep shovels, sand, water, and a fire extinguisher nearby; 4) Extinguish fire with water and never leave the fire pit unattended.

Dig a 4”-deep trench for the perimeter stones that will ring the liner pit.

Fill the trench for the perimeter stones with compactable gravel and tamp thoroughly. Then scatter gravel to within 21/2” of the paver edging throughout the project area. It is not necessary to tamp this layer at this time.

Place your metal fire ring so it is level on the gravel layer and centered around the center pipe.

Arrange the first course of wall blocks around the fire ring. Keep gaps even and check with a level, adding or removing gravel as needed.

Install the second course of wall block, taking care to evenly stagger the vertical joints on the first and second courses. Add the remaining courses to the desired height. Compact the gravel in the seating/safety area using a rental plate vibrator.

Place and compact a layer of top-dressing rock in the seating/safety area to complete the fire pit.

Insert the motor head bracket onto the larger-diameter support post. The head should be installed so the thumb latch on top of the motor head bracket faces upward. To adjust the height up or down, squeeze the thumb latch, slide the bracket to the desired height, and release the thumb latch to fix the motor in place.

To install the motor, locate the motor support slots located on the outside of the motor support bracket. Insert the bottom of the motor mounting tabs into the top of the slots and push the motor down into position. Take care not to install the motor upside down.

Begin assembly of the handle unit by sliding the outboard support clamp onto the smaller support post so the U-shaped cutout faces upward. Adjusting height is done by squeezing the tabs on the clap and sliding the clamp up or down on the support post.

Slide the thumbscrew bushing onto the threaded end of the spit rod rust past the threads. Screw down the thumbscrew tightly.

Place the looped end of the counterbalance over the threads on the spit rod and against the lock nut on the bushing.

Thread the handle onto the spit rod. Insert the spit rod into the motor assembly on the opposite post. Tighten the bushing thumbscrew down to lock it in place.

Even weight distribution is critical in rotisserie cooking, and here is where the counterbalance comes in. Once a food item is secured in the prongs on the spit rod, find the heaviest side of the food, then manually turn the rod until this heaviest portion is facing up. Allow the counterweight to point straight downward, and secure the handle to hold it in place. This will allow the spit to be relatively balanced so the motor can function smoothly. As the food item cooks and shrinks, you can expect to readjust the counterweight several times.

Set the first course of concrete blocks in type S mortar. Start one of the side walls with a half block at the front of the base. Complete the course down the first wall, across the rear wall, and up the other side wall, finishing with a corner block. Check the blocks in the first course with a 4’ level. All of the blocks should be level with one another in all directions. Use a rubber mallet to tap the blocks into alignment. Making the first row level helps ensure that subsequent courses will be level. Once the first course has set, you can remove the guide form.

Set the next courses of blocks, starting with a corner block at the front of the first wall to create a running-bond brick pattern in which the vertical seams are offset. Tool the mortar joints with a jointing tool as you go. Repeat the process to complete the three remaining courses, for a total of five. Tool the joints after every two rows are laid. Let the mortar cure as directed by the manufacturer before moving on to the next step. This will require at least an overnight curing period.

Finish the interior and exterior sides of the block walls with one-coat stucco or surface-bonding cement, using a square-end trowel and following the manufacturer’s directions. Let the stucco cure as directed.

You will install 16” angle irons across the top row of the foundation to support the front of the concrete pavers and the joint between the first and second row of pavers. Use a circular saw with a masonry blade to cut a kerf into the top of the blocks to fit the vertical flange on the angle irons. Set the angle irons in place, then apply a 1/2”-thick layer of mortar to the tops of the base walls. Set the concrete pavers onto the mortar, and make sure they are level from side to side and front to back. Tool the mortar beneath the edges of the pavers and allow to cure fully—at least overnight.

Draw a semicircle for one of the base ribs using a homemade trammel. Make the trammel by drilling a small hole for a finish nail about 1” from the end of a wooden yardstick or a thin, straight board. Drill another hole 13 3/8” away from the first hole. Drive a finish nail through the first hole and into the 3/4” plywood, very close to one of the factory (uncut) edges of the panel. Position a pencil in the other hole of the trammel and rotate the trammel to draw the semicircle on the plywood.

Cut out the first rib with a jigsaw. Using the first rib as a template, trace the outlines for two more ribs, then cut them out. Mark three layout lines for the ribs onto both faces of the plywood form base. Locate the two outside lines 3” from each end of the base, and center the third rib in the middle of the base, using a framing square to mark the lines. Center each rib over a line and fasten it to the base with 11/2” drywall screws driven through the base and into the edge grain of the rib.

Attach the hardboard form top by fastening it to the side edges of the plywood base, using 11/2” drywall screws driven every 4” to 5”. The smooth side of the hardboard should face out. Bend the hardboard over the ribs, screwing it down to the ribs as you go. Fasten the hardboard along the other base side, as with the first side.

Begin building the oven by centering the brick form on top of the concrete pavers. Lay a 3/8”-thick bed of refractory mortar and set the first course of firebrick along the base of the form. In our design, it was possible to use full bricks all the way around the form; however, if your bricks are a slightly different size, you may need to cut some of the bricks. If so, it’s best to do this on the back corners, where they will be less visible. Let the mortar cure overnight, then remove the brick form.

Dry-lay the firebricks for the oven floor, following the herringbone pattern shown here, or using a different diagonal pattern, if you desire. Cut the bricks to fit along the edges, using a circular saw with masonry blade to score the bricks, then breaking them with a brickset chisel and hammer. Fill in the entire floor, then remove the bricks one at a time and set them aside in the same pattern.

Cover the floor area with an even, 3/8”-thick layer of refractory mortar. Set the floor bricks into the mortar in your established pattern. Do not apply mortar between the bricks. Use the 4’ level to ensure all the floor bricks are level with one another and with the perimeter bricks. The floor area must be level and smooth, with no raised edges between bricks. Let the mortar cure, at least overnight.

Place the brick form on top of the oven floor so it is centered side to side and front to back. Begin building the oven dome by setting one course of firebrick along the two sides of the oven, staggering the mortar joints with the courses below in an offset, running-bond pattern. At the ends of rows, you will need to cut bricks to size with a circular saw and masonry blade. Check your work with a level as you go.

Complete five more courses on each side of the dome, following the same running-bond pattern. Because half blocks are not supported by the interior form, you will need to cut small braces to hold the half blocks in place as the dome gets higher. Because of the arching pattern, the joints between bricks will be much wider on the outside of the bricks, while on the inside, the joints will nearly touch. Gradually, you will arch over the top of the form, meeting in the center. As you near the top of the arch, test-fit bricks periodically to ensure that you will meet in the center with full bricks. If you need to begin adjusting the thickness of the mortar lines to ensure a uniform fit, now is the time to do it.

Lay the brick for the last two courses to complete the dome. Start with a half brick at the front, then leave a 31/2” space before resuming the running-bond pattern for the remainder of both courses. The space is an opening for the chimney.

Install the metal chimney flue so it is centered over the hole in the dome and perfectly plumb. Pack refractory mortar around the chimney to hold it in place. Let the mortar for the chimney and dome cure for two days or as directed by the mortar manufacturer.

Remove the brick form. This may require prying and cutting away pieces of the form in order to extract it. Begin by knocking loose the ribs, then pry away the hardboard arch. Finish by prying out the base of the form. Now, enclose the rear of the oven with courses of firebrick. You will need to cut some small angled pieces of brick at the edges. Let the mortar cure for two days.

Clean the entire oven inside and out with water and a stiff-bristle brush to remove all loose mortar and other debris. If mortar is resisting removal, use a diluted muriatic acid solution, following the manufacturer’s directions. Let the mortar cure for seven days. The oven does not need to stay dry for this period.

Heat-cure the oven by burning gradually larger fires on the center of the oven floor for a period of five days following the schedule shown below. Monitor the temperature during each firing using an infrared thermometer. Aim the thermometer at the center of the dome interior, directly above the fire.

Precut playground packages contain everything you need except tools. A homeowner with basic skills can put together a play area like this in one or two weekends.

Screw the brackets to the tower frame corners, making sure that the bolt hole on the long side of the bracket lines up with the centers of the 2 × 4s behind it. Using the large holes in the brackets as guides, drill holes for the bolts. To avoid splintering the back sides, stop drilling as soon as the bit starts to poke through the back, then finish drilling from the other side. Check to make sure everything is still square, and then install and tighten the bolts.

Install the center joists that connect the platform frames, fastening them with countersunk 21/2” deck screws. Make certain all screw heads are fully seated beneath the wood surface.

Install the deckboards with 11/2” deck screws driven into countersunk pilot holes, starting with the two outside pieces. Try to make sure the ends of the deck boards are aligned during installation—clamping a stop block or spacer block to the deck-board support will help align your work pieces. The drainage gaps between the deck boards must be less than 1/4”.

Extend the tower walls to the full height with additional 2 × 4 pieces. Use the drill guide or template (if provided with your kit) to ensure regular alignment of all screws.

Install the outer framework of 2 × 4s to support the roof of the playground structure, using corner brackets provided by the kit manufacturer.

Add additional framing to strengthen the sides of the tower. The framing on the right will help support the swingset and the climbing bar and climbing wall; the 2 × 4s on the left are used to support the slide.

Install the bottom railings and the top back and side railings for the tower structure. Clamp a straight piece of wood on top of (or underneath) the railing at the 1” point to create the setback and to make installation easier. Cut spacers to make the gap even, but check the gap before screwing in the last few boards, just in case, and adjust if necessary.

Attach railings, siding, and trim. Install the front railing first, using a 3{{#}}8260;16” spacer. Then, add the trim pieces. This step is easier if you tilt the structure backwards to the ground—but don’t try this without a helper.

Install the rest of the roof frame. Use clamps to hold pieces in position before attaching them. Check the center vertical pieces with a carpenter’s level to make sure they are plumb.

Begin building the swingset. The swing structure shown here is supported by a pair of angled posts in an A-frame configuration on the end opposite from the tower, and a single angled leg on the tower end. Fasten the three legs of the swingset together (they are made with doubled 2 × 4s), and then bolt on the triangular bracket for each leg. Construct the assembly by bolting the triangular brackets together and then screwing on the crosspiece. Add the small brackets to the inside of the crosspiece, with the short legs against the crosspiece (inset). Trim the leg bottoms so they lie flat on the ground.

Join the beams and legs. Screw the 2 × 6 beam pieces to the brackets, making sure the legs are exactly parallel and square to the beam. Drill the 3/8” holes for the bolts using the brackets as a guide. Then screw the second layer of 2 × 6s to the first with 21/2” screws.

Attach the swing hardware. Turn the swing assembly over and place it on sawhorses. Drill guide holes and fasten the sides together with bolts. Drill guide holes for the swing hangers and lag screws and install them so that the moving hanger swings perpendicular to the beam.

Add the swingset to the tower. Lift the swingset into place and fasten it to the tower with a bolt through the swing beam and a 2 × 4 crosspiece near the base fastened with metal angles and bolts.

Install the climbing wall. Attach the climbing wall supports to the tower frame with the provided brackets. The ends of the supports are angle-cut at the top and the bottom. Attach the top and bottom crossboards to the outer supports and then center the middle support board and attach it by driving deck screws through the crossboards and into the support.

Add the remaining crossboards in the climbing wall, working down from the top and making sure the boards are fitted tightly together.

Start building the climbing bar assembly. The climbing bars function as a ladder that is mounted to the tower on the side opposite the climbing wall. Assemble the climbing bar standards with four triangular metal brackets included with the kit. The stops on the sides of the brackets that contact the standard will set the correct angle for the standards if the boards are tight against the stops.

Attach the climbing bars to the standards, making sure the standards are parallel and oriented correctly. Use 11/2” panhead screws to attach the bars at 12” intervals on the bottom leg and at 103/4” intervals along the top.

Connect the climbing bar to the tower. First, dig holes into the play surface at the correct locations for the legs of the climbing bar standards. Set the legs into the 2”-deep holes, and then fasten the top ends of the standards to the tower with brackets and lag screws.

Anchor all the sides of the swingset, along with the climbing bar and climbing wall, using screw-in anchors. If the anchors don’t work properly in your soil type, dig a 2-foot-deep post hole, fill it with concrete, and set the anchor in that. Bolt the anchor to the structure with 3/8” × 11/2” lag screws.

Attach the slide. First, position the slide and then attach it to the tower at the top with fasteners. Then, bolt the side at the base to a screw-in anchor. Add other accessories as you choose.

Swings are virtually a requirement in any playset. This swingset is bolted to a DIY playset, but it can easily be modified into a freestanding swinging structure.

Cut the long angles on each post with a circular saw, then square off the top edge with a power miter saw or circular saw.

Bolt the A-frame brackets onto the 4 × 6, and then predrill the holes for the eye bolts that hold the swing. Use a long spade bit for the eye bolt holes.

Assemble the legs. Lay the 4 × 4 legs for one side on a flat area, set the 4 × 6 on top of them, and then bolt the legs to the brackets. Use the fasteners recommended by the hardware manufacturer. You’ll need a helper to hold the 4 × 6 steady.

Attach the second leg. Use a stepladder or helpers to hold the 4 × 4s steady and in place as you finish bolting into the brackets.

Clamp the 2 × 6 ties in position. Drill the bolt holes, and then counterbore the holes on the inside. Bolt the 2 × 6 on with 5” carriage bolts.

Anchor the swingset. Tack the swingset structure in place against the platform of the adjoining playset. Using a long drill bit, drill through each 4 × 4 leg and bolt the swing to the platform.

Hang the swings using the mounting hardware and chains or rope supplied or recommended by the manufacturer. Test to make sure the ground clearance is adequate and adjust as necessary.

Cross section of a Concrete Slab Foundation

A simple, rugged structure, this shed is meant to be easy to build and utilitarian, while still offering a visual upgrade on bare garbage and recycling cans cluttering your landscape.

Lay out all the sidewall pieces, measure and cut them for both walls. Mark the tops of the front and rear posts on each side for the angle of the top using a framing square.

Make the cuts for all the sidewall pieces, the braces, and top caps. Assemble the side walls. The top caps will be longer than the outside faces of the front and rear posts.

Use a speed square to mark the angled cut on the front and back of the sidewall top caps. Make the mitered cuts with a jigsaw.

Cut the front cross brace supports and screw them in place on the front of each sidewall front post, leaving a 31/2” space between the top of the support and the bottom of the top plate.

Lay one completed sidewall on top of the 1” plywood for the center partition. Use a 2 × 4 spacer to create a 11/2” space between the bottom edge of the wall and the bottom edge of the plywood. Outline the shape of the sidewall onto the plywood, including the angled top cuts and the front and rear edge cuts. Remove the sidewall and cut the partition. Prime and paint or finish the partition, including the edges.

Screw the sidewalls to the rear base using countersunk 6” lag screws. Drive a lag screw through each of the rear wall posts and the side bases.

Stand a rear wall post face to edge against the sidewall rear post and use the sidewall post as a reference to mark the cut line on the top of the rear wall post. Assemble the rear wall by driving 3” screws through the posts into the ends of the 4 × 4 rear wall base. Screw the rear wall top plate to the posts with 3” wood screws driven down through the top plate and into the end grain of the posts.

Drive 3” wood screws through the faces of the rear wall posts into the sidewall rear posts’ edges, every 6”. Position the front cross brace in place, resting on the front brace supports, and screw it to the sidewall front posts with 21/2” wood screws.

Mark the centerpoints of the front cross brace and the rear wall 4 × 4 base. Align the plywood partition wall in place with these centerpoints. Drill pilot holes and then nail the rear wall top plate and front cross brace to the edges of the plywood partition.

Position the 56”-long front top plate between the side top plates so the front edge is flush with the front edge of the front cross brace. Screw the front top plate to the front cross brace. Secure the ends of the top plate into each sidewall top plate with screws driven toenail-style from below.

Hold one 38” × 55” side-wall T1-11 panel against the sidewall frame with the ripped front and rear edges aligned with the sidewall front and rear edges. Screw the panel to the side wall, every 6” around the edges and every 10” in the field. Repeat with the opposite sidewall.

Use a jigsaw to cut the siding panels flush with the top face of both sidewall top rails. Nail two ripped-down panels on the rear wall, so the center seam aligns on the partition. Attach 31/2” × 48” strips of ripped siding panel on either side of the front, using brads.

Cut the two lids from 5/8” exterior plywood, each 341/2” by 311/2”. Rip the 31/2” × 63” hinge strip from the same plywood. Coat the underside of the rear panel with construction adhesive, and use finish nails to fasten the rear panel across the rear top plate and sidewalls.

Paint or finish the lids if applying a top finish. Once dry, attach them to the rear top plate and plywood rear panel with two 3” door hinges per lid. Attach two 3” sash handles centered on the lids at the front edge.

Screw the front frame of 1 × 3 pine pieces around the front edges of the T1-11 door panels, driving the 1” wood screws from the inside of the doors. Mount the doors to the frame of the shed with 5” T-hinges, two per door. Install two friction catches for each door, one on either side of the plywood partition, and a slide-bolt latch on the doors.

Designed roughly to the dimensions of an old-fashioned telephone booth, this shed has a remarkably useful interior space and a handsome appearance that would work well in any yard.

On a flat work surface, lay out the floor frame, with the joists and rim joists on edge. Screw the rim joists to the ends of each joist, using 3” deck screws. Center the floor frame on the skids and toe screw the joists to the skids. Position the plywood floor on the frame so that all edges are flush, and screw the floor to the frame with 21/2” deck screws.

Build the first sidewall, screwing the top and sole plates flush to the outside studs. Screw the inside studs in place, spaced 131/4” on center. Build the second sidewall in the same way. Brace them in place on the floor, checking to make sure they that they are plumb. Use the same method to build the rear wall, but with double studs on the edges, and the inside studs spaced 131/2” on-center. Position the rear wall on the floor, bracing them to the side walls.

Create the door header by sandwiching two 39” 2 × 4s together with construction adhesive and pairs of 21/2” deck screws driven every 4”. Center the header on the underside of the top plate and screw it in place using 3” deck screws driven down through the top plate. Screw the king studs to either side of the header, and to the top plate. Install the jack studs on the inside of the king studs. Screw the top plate to the outside front-wall studs, and screw the sole plates to the bottoms of the outside studs, king studs, and jack studs to complete the front wall.

Nail the sidewall sole plates through the floor and into the floor frame. Screw the sidewalls to the rear wall with 3” deck screws. Put the front wall in position, measure the diagonals to ensure square, and screw the sole plates to the floor and the side walls to the front wall.

Starting with the sidewalls, install the plywood siding panels. Side the rear wall, then cut the sections for the front wall and nail them in place.

Cut the rafters, including two rafters that are 3/4” longer and have no birdsmouth cut. These will be the front and back trim pieces. Toenail the ridge board to the gable studs, and position the ridge board assembly on the top plates, front to back (centered side to side). Toenail the rafters to the top plates, and to the ridge board. The front and rear rafters should be flush with the outer edges of the top plates.

Install Z-flashing along the top plate on the gable ends and caulk the edge. Install the gable end plywood panels in place on the front and rear walls, and use a jigsaw to trim off the corners of the panel to match the slope of the end rafters. Use a 3” hole saw to drill two vent holes on either side of the gable end stud.

Use 21/2” deck screws to attach the trim boards to the front and rear rafter faces, and along the rafter ends on both sides. Sheath the roof with 1/2” plywood sections, nailed every 6” along each rafter. Attach the metal drip edge along the eaves, and cover the roof with building paper. Then add the metal drip edge along the roof edge along both gable ends. Install the asphalt shingles, laying the courses to overlap at the ridge.

Nail the cleat frame to the back of the T1-11 door panel. Hang the door using 3” galvanized strap hinges. Install the handle and sliding bolt. Cut and fasten screening over the inside of the gable siding holes, using construction adhesive. Paint the shed.

Smooth the cut end profiles with a sander and break the edges of the cuts into a slight bevel to help prevent splintering.

Lay a post/joist assembly in position on the surface and set post base hardware flush against the post ends. Trace the post base location onto the surface.

Tack the mating joist in position on the opposite sides of the posts from the first joist, using deck screws.

Drill guide holes for the post base anchors using a hammer drill and masonry bit.

After driving the anchor bolt into the guide hole, fasten down the pedestal bases for the first end post pair assembly. Install the post standoff platforms.

Erect the end-post assembly in the post bases, checking with a level to make sure the posts are plumb. Tack the posts temporarily to the bases with deck screws.

Drive the post base fasteners through the base saddles and into the post. Keep them slightly loose so you can still adjust the assembly later.

Double check that the posts are plumb and the joists are level. Attach the finished hardware for permanently connecting the joists and posts.

With both post assemblies secured, position and tack and outer rafter at each corner.

Finish driving the final fasteners at all post bases and check again for plumb and square.

Attach the finished rafter hardware to the outer rafter at each corner.

Clamp 4×4 stock across the corbel locations at each corner and transfer cutting lines where they cross the rafter tops. Remove the corbel stock and make the angled cuts with a power miter saw.

Make the angled cuts where the corbels meet the posts and then tack into position with deck screws.

When all the corbels are cut, aligned, and tacked into place, attach the final hardware.

Install the remaining rafters, using L-brackets to reinforce the joints.

Attach the purlins to the rafter tops with exterior screws driven from above.

Create a shady retreat in a sunny yard with this striking cedar arbor. It can also support a wealth of climbing plants if you so choose.

Use a jigsaw to cut a 31/2”-long × 11/2”-wide notch (actual 2 × 4 dimensions) at the top outside corner of each leg front. These notches cradle the crossbeams when the arbor is assembled. Cut the crossbeams to length.

Lay out semicircle profiles on the ends of the crossbeams. Use a piece of cardboard as a template for tracing the arcs. Draw a 31/2”-diameter semicircle at the edge of the cardboard strip and cut out the semicircle for the template. Cut out the arcs on the workpieces with a jigsaw. Sand smooth with a drill and drum sander attachment. Also cut two side spreaders to length.

Drill 3/8”-diameter pilot holes in the crossbeams and attach them to the legs with two 3/8”-diameter × 21/2” lag screws and glue. Fasten the spreaders and rails with deck screws to assemble the side frames.

Cut the trellis strips and cross strips to length from 1 × 2 cedar. Attach the 48”-long vertical trellis strips to the crossbeams and spreaders, spaced 23/8” apart, with the ends flush with the top of the crossbeam. Use 21/2” deck screws driven through pilot holes.

Brace the side frames in an upright, level position with long pieces of 1 × 4 while you attach the top beams. Clamp the ends of the braces to the side frames so the side frames are 4 feet apart, and use a level to make sure the side frames are plumb. Secure the top beams to the crossbeams with 6” lag screws, 123/4” from each end of each top beam.

Temporarily lock the legs in a square position for transport after assembling the arbor by tacking strips of wood between the front legs and between the back legs.

Cut the cross strips to 7” and 10” lengths. Use wood screws driven into pilot holes to attach them at 3” intervals in a staggered pattern on the side trellis pieces. You can adjust the sizes and placement of the cross strips but, for best appearance, retain some symmetry of placement. Fasten cross strips to the top trellis in the same manner. To protect the arbor, coat the cedar wood with clear wood sealer. After the finish dries, the arbor is ready to be placed onto your deck or patio or in a quiet corner of your yard.

Stacks of firewood will stay drier and be less of an eyesore if you build this rustic firewood shelter.

Cut the front posts and rear posts to length. Join them into pairs with 21/2” deck screws (see diagram, shown here). On a flat surface, set the rail assembly between the posts on 2” spacers. Drive a pair of 3/8” × 4” lag screws, fitted with washers, through the sides of the corner posts and into the bottom rails. Complete the frame by installing end rails at the tops of the corner posts.

Cut the back rail, front rail, roof supports, middle post, and middle supports to length. The roof supports and middle supports are mitered at the ends. To make the miter cutting lines, mark a point 11/2” in from each end, along the edge of the board. Draw diagonal lines from each point to the opposing corner. Cut along the lines with a circular saw or power miter saw.

Attach the front and back rails by driving 3” deck screws through the outer roof supports, making sure the top of the rail is flush with the tops of the supports. The supports should overhang the posts equally in the front and rear.

Attach the middle supports by driving 3” deck screws through the rails and into the ends of the middle supports. The tops of the rails should be flush with the tops of the roof supports. Use a pipe clamp to hold the supports in place as you attach them. Install the middle post with 21/2” deck screws so it extends 2” past the bottom rail. Attach one prop to the front and back rails.

Cut pieces of 8”-wide beveled cedar lap siding to length to make the siding strips and the roof strips. Starting 2” up from the bottoms of the rear posts, fasten the back siding strips. Work your way up, overlapping each piece of siding by 1/2”, making sure the thicker edges of the siding face down. Attach the roof strips to the roof supports, starting at the back edge. Make sure the wide edge of the siding faces down. Attach the rest of the roof strips, overlapping the strip below by about 1/2”. Apply wood sealer/finish if you wish.

Metric Conversions

Converting Temperatures

Convert degrees Fahrenheit (F) to degrees Celsius (C) by following this simple formula: Subtract 32 from the Fahrenheit temperature reading. Then, multiply that number by 5/9. For example, 77°F - 32 = 45. 45 × 5/9 = 25°C.

Metric Plywood Panels

Metric plywood panels are commonly available in two sizes: 1,200 mm × 2,400 mm and 1,220 mm × 2,400 mm, which is roughly equivalent to a 4 × 8-ft. sheet. Standard and Select sheathing panels come in standard thicknesses, while Sanded grade panels are available in special thicknesses.

Lumber Dimensions

Liquid Measurement Equivalents