General Home Repair
Black & Decker The Book of Home Improvement - The Most Popular Remodeling Projects Shown in Full Detail
Source: Black & Decker The Book of Home Improvement - The Most Popular Remodeling Projects Shown in Full Detail.pdf
Source file: Black & Decker The Book of Home Improvement - The Most Popular Remodeling Projects Shown in Full Detail.pdf
TH E BO O K O F
HOME
IMPROVEMENT THE MOST POPULAR REMODELING
PROJECTS SHOWN IN FULL DETAIL
Proof 1
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NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The publisher and
BLACK+DECKER cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse of the
information provided.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional
techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions included with products,
since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required:Proof 1 2 T
some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help.
Consult your local building department for information on building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to
your project.
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CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION .............................................................7 Polymer Crown .................................................88
Wall Frame Moldings ........................................90
Planning a Remodeling Project Wainscot Frames ..............................................92
Anatomy of a House .........................................10 Coffered Ceilings ..............................................96
Building Codes & Permits .................................14 Ceiling Medallions ..........................................100
Remodeling Case Studies.................................18 Jointless Rail-and-Stile Wainscot ...................102
Working Safely ..................................................22 Raised-Panel Wainscot ...................................106
Tools & Materials ..............................................24 Crown Molding ...............................................110
Decorative Door Header .................................114
Wall, Ceiling & Trim Projects Built-Up Base Molding ....................................116
Molding Profiles ................................................32
Building Walls....................................................38 Floor Projects
Building a Wet Wall ...........................................42 Planning Overview..........................................122
Installing Interior Doors ...................................48 Floor Anatomy ................................................123
Installing a Prehung Interior Door ...................52 Installing Raised Subfloor Panels ...................124
Framing Basement Foundation Walls ..............54 Installing Laminate Flooring ...........................126
Removing a Non-Load-Bearing Wall .................58 Underfloor Radiant Heat Systems .................130
Archways ..........................................................60 Installing a Decorative Floor Medallion .........136
Preformed Domes .............................................62 Bonded Bamboo Strip Flooring ......................138
Soundproofing a Room .....................................66 Cork Tile ..........................................................142
Stool & Apron Window Trim .............................68 Mosaic Tile ......................................................146
Arts & Crafts Casing .........................................72
Basement Window Trim ...................................74 Cabinets, Countertops & Storage Projects
Basic Casing ......................................................78 Materials .........................................................150
Proof 1 2 T
Built-Up Chair Rail .............................................80 Understairs Bookcases ...................................152
Built-Up Crown Molding ...................................84 Basement Stairway Shelving .........................158CGHI_001-029_11984.indd 3 12/1/17 4:00 PM CGHI_001-029_11984_C2.indd 3 2/2/17 12:28 PM Job: 11984 Title: #225388_Black & Decker Of Home Improvement (MBI) Text
CONTENTS (CONT.)
Basement Storage Wall ..................................162 Tubular Skylights ............................................294
Custom Laundry Center .................................168 Framing an Exterior Door ...............................296
Double-Bowl Vanity Top..................................174 French Doors ..................................................300
Butcher Block Countertops ............................178 Hanging a New Door in an Old Jamb .............304
Concrete Countertop......................................184 Entry Doors .....................................................308
Granite Tile Countertops ................................192 Storm Doors ....................................................312
Banquette .......................................................196 Attic Access Ladders ......................................316
Recessed Cabinet ...........................................200 Walkout Patio Doors .......................................320
Window Seat...................................................210
Wall Niche .......................................................218 Attic & Basement Projects
Formal Bookcase ............................................222 Evaluating Your Attic ......................................326
Box Beam Shelves ..........................................228 Evaluating Your Basement .............................328
Media Bar ........................................................234 Controlling Moisture ......................................330
Club Bar...........................................................240 Insulating Basements & Attics .......................336
Framing Soffits ...............................................342
Window & Door Projects Stairways ........................................................344
Planning & Preparation ..................................252 Building Attic Floors .......................................346
Replacing Basement Windows .......................254 Building Attic Kneewalls ................................350
New Window Sash..........................................256 Framing Attic Ceilings ....................................352
Framing & Installing Windows .......................260 Adding a Basement Bath................................354
Installing an Egress Window ..........................268 Installing a Gas Fireplace ...............................365
Framing a Window in a Gable Wall ................274
Garden Windows ............................................276 Kitchen ProjectsProof 1 2 T
Bay Windows ..................................................280 Practical Planning Tips ...................................374
Glass Block Windows......................................290 Slide-Out Storage............................................376
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Countertop Selection .....................................380 Vessel Sinks ....................................................480
Tile Backsplash ...............................................386 Bidets ..............................................................484
Stock-Cabinet Island ......................................390 Vent Fans ........................................................488
Two-Level Tile Island ......................................392 Toilet Enclosure ..............................................492
Island Vent Hood ............................................396
Ranges, Ovens & Cooktops ............................400 Room Addition Projects
Refrigerator Icemaker ....................................402 Evaluating Your Site .......................................498
Dishwasher .....................................................406 Drawing Construction Plans ..........................500
Range Hood/Vent Fan .....................................411 Site Preparation ..............................................502
Drop-in Sink ....................................................414 Pouring a Footing ...........................................504
Undermount Sink............................................416 Tying into an Existing Foundation .................506
Apron Sink ......................................................420 Laying a Concrete Block Foundation .............508
Framing the Floor ...........................................512
Bathroom Projects Framing a Wall ................................................516
Designing for Accessibility .............................426 Constructing the Addition’s Roof...................522
Shower Enclosure Kits ...................................428 Installing Asphalt Shingles .............................530
Custom Shower Base .....................................434 Sheathing Exterior Walls ................................538
Curbless Shower.............................................440 Building Wrap..................................................540
Alcove Bathtubs .............................................450 Installing Siding ..............................................542
Three-Piece Tub Surrounds ............................456 Soffits, Fascia & Gutters .................................548
Soaking Tubs ...................................................461 Installing Windows in an Addition .................550
Freestanding Tubs ..........................................467 Installing an Entry Door in an Addition .........554
Sliding Tub Doors ............................................470
Proof 1 2 T
Pedestal & Console Sinks ...............................474 Index........................................................................... 556
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I N T RODUC T ION
F or experienced (or maybe just intrepid) do-it-yourselfers, there eventually comes another step beyond the
many basic repair and maintenance projects that are so crucial to home ownership. Just keeping a home’s
systems and structure in good working order is, of course, the goal of any responsible homeowner, but sooner or
later most are ready to go to the next level by tackling projects that aim at improving, not just maintaining, their
homes. These are projects that qualify as true home remodeling—DIY projects designed to extend the home’s
usefulness and increase its real-estate value.
That’s where The Book of Home Improvement comes in. Earlier BLACK+DECKER major references, The
Book of Home How-To and The Complete Outdoor Builder, were devoted to the basic skills and essential projects
for keeping your home in good working order, both inside and out. The Book of Home Improvement builds on that
foundation by offering a great selection of legitimate remodeling projects that can actually add financial value to
the home while improving your family’s enjoyment of it. Most homeowners will find great satisfaction by owning
all three of these major home-improvement encyclopedias, as they are designed to work together.
This book offers well over one hundred fully illustrated remodeling projects, carefully selected for their
popularity among homeowners and their value as equity-building improvements. These are the projects
recommended by real-estate professionals for improving the value of your home. While some basic skills on your
part are assumed—likely because you own other BLACK+DECKER books presenting the core DIY know-how—
all the information you need to complete these projects is found right here: lists of tools and materials, building
plans, and the unsurpassed step-by-step photography you’ve come to know from BLACK+DECKER books.
With projects ranging from fairly simple replacement of trim moldings to elaborate extension of living space with
added room additions, The Book of Home Improvement will quickly become an essential addition to your home
DIY library.
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PL ANNING A REMODELING PROJECTProof 1
8 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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PL ANNING A REMODELING PROJECT
PLANNING A
REMODELING
PROJEC T
T he origins of the old idioms “Measure twice, cut
once” and “An ounce of prevention is worth a
pound of cure” are not definitively known, but we
suspect they were coined by someone with rueful
experience in home remodeling. Likewise for “Where
fools rush in, angels fear to tread.” Adequate planning
and preparation are crucial to getting good results with
home-improvement projects, while hastiness can be
the start of disaster.
Planning a major remodeling project is a complex
subject that can’t be addressed in a single chapter of
any book, but the segments of this chapter outline some
key ideas for good preparation for any project. Keep the
following in mind as you prepare for your project:
• Understand how your planned work fits in with
the overall structure and function of your home—
whether it is a carpentry project that integrates
with the framework of your home or a heating,
cooling, wiring, or plumbing project that will
blend into an existing mechanical system.
• Review the codes and acceptable building
practices authorized by your community. These
exist for your safety, and following them can
prevent accidents and expensive do-overs.
• Have a clear visual sense of the work you intend
to do. A key step here is to have good, detailed
plan drawings and practical schedules to organize
the steps of your work.
• Use tools and materials safely; review their proper
usage, and make sure your skills are honed before
tackling a big project. Don’t get in over your head.
With careful, meticulous planning, even DIYers
of average experience can tackle surprisingly complex
remodeling projects with great success.
■ IN THIS CHAPTER:
• Anatomy of a House
• Building Codes & Permits
• Remodeling Case Studies
Proof 1
• Working Safely
• Tools & Materials
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PL ANNING A REMODELING PROJECT
A NATOM Y OF A HOUSE A House with Platform Framing
Ridge board
B efore you start a do-it-yourself carpentry project,
you should familiarize yourself with a few basic
elements of home construction and remodeling. Take
Roof sheathing Skylight header
Shingles
some time to get comfortable with the terminology
of the models shown on the next few pages. The
understanding you will gain in this section will make
it easier to plan your project, buy the right materials,
and clear up any confusion you might have about the Rafter
internal design of your home.
If your project includes modifying exterior or Header
load-bearing walls, you must determine if your house
was built using platform- or balloon-style framing. The
framing style of your home determines what kind of
Load-bearing wall
temporary supports you will need to install while the
work is in progress. If you have trouble determining
what type of framing was used in your home, refer to Jack stud
the original blueprints, if you have them, or consult a
building contractor or licensed home inspector.
King stud
Top plate
ANATOMY OF A HOUSE
WITH PLATFORM FRAMING
Sole plate
Joist
Header
Studs
Subfloor
Rim joist
Rough sill
Support beam
Foundation
Support posts
Platform framing (photos, right and above) is identified
by the floor-level sole plates and ceiling-level top plates to
which the wall studs are attached. Most houses built after
1930 use platform framing. If you do not have access to
unfinished areas, you can remove the wall surface at the
bottom of a wall to determine what kind of framing was used
in your home.Proof 1
10 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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PL ANNING A REMODELING PROJECT
Framing in a new door or window on an exterior
A House with Balloon Framing
wall normally requires installing a header. Make sure
that the header you install meets the requirements
Ridge board
of your local building code, and always install cripple
studs where necessary.
Floors and ceilings consist of sheet materials, Rafters
joists, and support beams. All floors used as living
Roof sheathing
areas must have joists with at least 2 × 8 construction.
There are two types of walls: load-bearing and
partition. Load-bearing walls require temporary Shingles
supports during wall removal or framing of a door or
window. Partition walls carry no structural load and do
not require temporary supports.
Header
ANATOMY OF A HOUSE Joist
WITH BALLOON FRAMING
Load-bearing wall
Cripple studs
Studs King stud
Jack stud
Subfloor
Rough sill
Sill plate
Fire blocks
Bracing
Main beam
Balloon framing (photos, right and above) is identified by
wall studs that run uninterrupted from the roof to a sill plate
on the foundation, without the sole plates and top plates
Support posts
found in platform-framed walls (page opposite). Balloon
framing was used in houses built before 1930, and it is still Foundation
used in some new home styles, especially those with high
vaulted ceilings.
Proof 1
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■ A NATOM Y DE TA I L S
PL ANNING A REMODELING PROJECT
Many remodeling projects, like adding new doors or
windows, require that you remove one or more studs in Recommended
a load-bearing wall to create an opening. When planning Header Sizes
your project, remember that new openings require a
permanent support beam called a header, above the ROUGH OPENING RECOMMENDED HEADER
removed studs, to carry the structural load directly. WIDTH CONSTRUCTION
The required size for the header is set by local
building codes and varies according to the width of
Up to 3' ⁄8" plywood between two 2 × 4s
3
the rough opening. For a window or door opening,
a header can be built from two pieces of 2-inch
dimensional lumber sandwiched around 3⁄8-inch 3 to 5' ⁄8" plywood between two 2 × 6s
3
plywood (chart, right). When a large portion of a load-
bearing wall (or an entire wall) is removed, a laminated 5 to 7' ⁄8" plywood between two 2 × 8s
3
beam product can be used to make the new header.
If you will be removing more than one wall stud, 7 to 8' ⁄8" plywood between two 2 × 10s
3
make temporary supports to carry the structural load
until the header is installed.
Header
Top plate
Jambs
Cripple studs
Jack stud
King stud
Sole plate
Door opening: The structural load above the door is carried by cripple studs that rest on a header. The ends of the header are
supported by jack studs (also known as trimmer studs) and king studs that transfer the load to the sole plate and the foundation ofProof 1
the house. The rough opening for a door should be 1" wider and ½" taller than the dimensions of the door unit, including the jambs.
This extra space lets you adjust the door unit during installation.
12 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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PL ANNING A REMODELING PROJECT
Header
Top plate
Jack stud
Jambs
Rough sill King stud
Sole plate
Cripple stud
Window opening: The structural load above the window is carried by cripple studs resting on a header. The ends of the header
are supported by jack studs and king studs, which transfer the load to the sole plate and the foundation of the house. The rough
sill, which helps anchor the window unit but carries no structural weight, is supported by cripple studs. To provide room for
adjustments during installation, the rough opening for a window should be 1" wider and ½" taller than the window unit, including
the jambs.
■ F R A M I NG OP T IONS FOR W I N DOW & DOOR OPE N I NG S
( N E W LU M BE R SHOW N I N Y E L L OW )
Using an existing opening avoids Framing a new opening is the only Enlarging an existing opening
the need for new framing. This is a good solution when you’re installing a window simplifies the framing. In many cases,
option in homes with masonry exteriors, or door where none existed or when you can use an existing king stud
which are difficult to alter. Order a you’re replacing a unit with one that is and jack stud to form one side of the
Proof 1
replacement unit that is 1" narrower and much larger. new opening.
½" shorter than the rough opening.
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PL ANNING A REMODELING PROJECT
BU I L DI NG CODE S & PE R M I T S
B uilding permits are required for any remodeling
project that involves a change or addition to your
home’s structure or mechanical systems. Building
permits are issued to ensure your remodeling project
meets local building codes, which establish material
standards, structural requirements, and installation
guidelines for your project. In short, they ensure that
your (or your contractor’s) work is done properly.
The areas outlined on pages 15 and 16—
room dimensions, exits and openings, light and
ventilation, and fire protection—are usually
covered by general building permits. If your
project involves major changes to your plumbing,
electrical, or HVAC systems, you may be required
to obtain separate permits from the respective
administration departments.
Building permits are required by law, and getting
caught without them can result in fines from the city Before issuing permits, your local building
and possible trouble with your insurance company. department will require plans and cost estimates for
Also, work done without permits can cause problems your project. After your plans have been approved,
if you try to sell your house. you must pay permit fees, which are based on the cost
Most local building codes follow the national of the project. You’ll also learn what inspections are
codes, such as the National Electrical Code, but are required and when you should call for inspections.
adapted to meet the demands of local conditions Once issued, a building permit typically is good
and legislation. Keep in mind that local codes always for 180 days. You can apply for an extension by
supersede national codes. Always check with your submitting a written request showing justifiable cause
local building department before finalizing your plans. for the delay.
Tip ▸
Here are some tips to help you prepare for the permit process:
• To obtain a building permit, you must fill out a form from your local building department that includes a description of
the project; your home’s address, legal description, and occupancy; and an estimate of the project cost.
• The building department may require two to four sets of construction documents or drawings of your project—
including floor and elevation plans—to be submitted for inspection and approval.
• A building inspector will examine all construction plans and stamp or send written notification of approval
and acceptance.
• One set of approved documents is kept by the building official, one set is sent to the applicant, and one set is
displayed at the site until the project is completed.
• Some permits are granted by phase of construction. After the work for one phase is completed and inspected, a
permit for the next phase is issued. However, building officials will not guarantee issuance of subsequent permits.
• All work is inspected by a building official to ensure compliance with codes and permits.
• Your project is complete only after the local building inspector makes a final inspection and gives approval of
your site.Proof 1
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■ ROOM DI M E NSIONS
PL ANNING A REMODELING PROJECT
• Habitable rooms must be at least 7' wide
and 7' deep.
• Ceilings in all habitable rooms, hallways,
corridors, bathrooms, toilet rooms, laundry
rooms, and basements must be at least
7' 6" high, measured from the finished
floor to the lowest part of the ceiling. 7 ft. 6"
5 ft. min. min.
• Beams, girders, and other obstructions
that are spaced more than 4' apart
can extend 6" below the required
ceiling height. 50 sq. ft.
• In nonhabitable rooms, such as unfinished floor space for
kitchens min.
basements, ceilings may be 6' 8" from the
floor, and beams, girders, and ducts may
be within 6' 4" of the floor.
• Habitable rooms cannot have more than 6 ft. 8"
50% of their floor area under sloped min.
ceilings less than 7' 6" high, and no 6 ft.4"
min.
portion of a floor area can be under a
ceiling less than 5' high. Unfinished
basement
• Finished floor is not considered
measurable floor area when it is below
sloped ceilings less than 5' high or
beneath furred ceilings less than
7' 6" high.
• One habitable room in a home must have
at least 120 square feet of gross floor area. • Kitchens cannot have less than 50 sq. ft. of gross
Other habitable rooms can have gross floor area.
floor space of 70 sq. ft. minimum. • Hallways must be at least 3' wide.
■ E X I T S & OPE N I NG S
• Sleeping rooms and habitable basements must must be at least 12" wide and project at least
have at least one egress window or exterior door 3" from the wall. Ladder rungs must be less than
for emergency escape. Occupants must be able to 18" apart.
open the exit from inside the home, without a key • Screens, bars, grills, and covers on emergency
or tool. exits must open easily and be removable from
• An egress window must have a net clear opening inside the home, without tools or keys.
of at least 5.7 sq. ft., with a minimum height of • Exit doors must be at least 3' wide and 6'
24" and a minimum width of 20". 8" high. They must provide direct outside
• Window sills on egress windows cannot be more access and operate without special knowledge
than 44" above the floor. or tools.
• Egress windows below ground level must have • Bulkhead enclosures may serve as
window wells. If the wells are deeper than 44", emergency exits in habitable basements if
they must have permanent ladders or steps. The they provide direct access to the basement
steps can project up to 6" into the well but must and meet the dimension requirements for
be usable when the window is fully opened. Steps emergency exits.
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■ NAT U R A L L IG H T & V E N T I L AT ION
PL ANNING A REMODELING PROJECT
• Ventilation includes windows, doors, louvers, and
other approved openings or mechanical systems.
• Windows must equal at least 8% of the floor area
in habitable rooms. The minimum openable area
of a window must equal at least 4% of the room’s
floor area.
• In bathrooms, windows must be at least 3 sq. ft.,
and at least half of the window must open.
• Windows must open and operate from inside the
room, and they must exit to a street, alley, yard,
court, or porch.
• Window light can be replaced by an artificial light
if it produces 6.46 lux from 30" above the floor.
• Mechanical ventilation can replace operable
windows. In bedrooms, ventilation must supply
outside air at a rate of 15 cubic ft. per minute (cfm)
for each occupant. In primary bedrooms, the rate
is based on two occupants. In additional bedrooms,
the rate is based on one occupant per room.
• In bathrooms, intermittent mechanical ventilation
rates must be 50 cfm, and continuous rates must
be 20 cfm. Bathroom ventilation must exhaust to
the outside.
■ F I R E PROT E C T ION
• All concealed and interconnected spaces, such as
soffits, drop and cove ceilings, stair stringers, and
areas around vents, pipes, ducts, chimneys, and
fireplaces must be fireblocked to prevent fire spread.
• Exterior walls must be constructed to resist fire for
at least one hour, with exposure from both sides.
• Batts or blankets of fiberglass, mineral wool, or other
approved material must be secured between wall
studs and partitions, at the ceiling and floor level,
and at 10-ft. intervals both vertically and horizontally.
• Foam insulation installed in interior walls covered
with ½" wallboard or other approved material
must have a flame-spread rating of 75 or less and
a smoke-developing index of 450 or less.
• Other insulation, including facings, vapor barriers, • Wall and ceiling finishes must have a
and breather papers, must have a flame-spread flame-classification rating of 200 or less and a
index of 25 or less and a smoke-developing index smoke-developing index of 450 or less.
of 450 or less. • Smoke alarms must be installed in bedrooms, in
• Loose-fill insulation mounted with screens or hallways near bedrooms, and on each full story of
supports must have a flame-spread rating of 25 or a home. Multiple alarms must be wired together
less and a smoke-developing index of 450 or less. so one activation triggers all alarms.Proof 1
16 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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PL ANNING A REMODELING PROJECT
Universal Design ▸
Universal design is intended for all people. While standard are coming for an extended visit. Or you may be preparing
home and product designs are based on the “average” your home for your own retirement years. Considering
person—that is, the average adult male—not everyone fits both your current and future needs is an essential part
into that category. Some people are short, some tall; some of a fundamental universal design concept: creating a
have difficulty walking, while others walk ably but find lifespan home—one that accommodates its residents
bending difficult. And physical abilities change constantly, throughout their lives. A lifespan home enables your aging
as do family situations. By incorporating universal design parents to live comfortably with you now and will allow
into your remodeling plans, you can create spaces that you to stay in your home as you grow older. And, while
work better for everyone who lives in or visits your home, universal design makes your everyday life easier, it will
regardless of their size, age, or ability. also make your home more appealing to a wide range of
Universal design is simply good design that improves potential buyers if you choose to sell.
everyday situations. For example, wide doorways make Much of the universal design information in this book
passage easier for a person carrying a load of laundry as comes from universal design specialists, kitchen and
well as for someone in a wheelchair; a lowered countertop bath designers, physical therapists, specialty builders and
enables a child to help prepare dinner and allows a person manufacturers, and organizations such as the National
who tires easily to sit while cooking. More a way of thinking Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA). Some suggestions are
than a set of rules, universal design can be applied to any ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) requirements; while
area of your home—from room layouts to light fixtures to these generally apply to public spaces, they often are used
door hardware. In all cases, universal design encourages as guidelines for residential design. As always, be sure that
independence by creating a safe, comfortable environment. all aspects of your project meet local code requirements.
Many people take on remodeling projects to For more help with planning with universal design,
accommodate changes in their households. Perhaps you contact a qualified professional. Many kitchen and bath
are remodeling because your aging parents are coming designers, home builders, and product manufacturers
to live with you or your grown children or grandchildren specialize in universal design.
Proof 1
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■ R E MODE L I NG CA SE ST U DI E S
PL ANNING A REMODELING PROJECT
Elevation view
of completed two- This two-story room addition is about outdoor spaces as well as indoor spaces. While the new
story bumpout children’s bedroom, Jack & Jill bathroom, and family room were the driving reasons for the addition,Proof 1
the covered patio, balcony, and spa terrace proved to be the real gems created by the project.
18 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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PL ANNING A REMODELING PROJECT
Side view of completed two-
story bump-out
From the side or from the rear, this carefully planned and meticulously executed room addition
meets one of the key tests many designers would put to it: does it look like it has always been there?
Interior view of completed
A pair of windows in the remodeled master bathroom looks out toward the spa area. The
Proof 1 2C
two-story bumpout
master bath repeats the dark wood tones and buff wall colors featured on the exterior of the
house and addition.
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■ R E MODE L I NG CA SE ST U DI E S
PL ANNING A REMODELING PROJECT
Side view of completed wing
Filled with light-gathering windows, this addition visually opens up an older brick home,
addition
modernizing without corrupting the existing historic architecture. The distinctive steel roof
effectively unifies the two structures despite different siding styles.
Front view
of completed
wing addition The glass-fronted facade of the addition comes to life at night with a cheery, welcoming
glow. The planning stage of any addition should consider all aspects, all exposures at all times.Proof 1
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PL ANNING A REMODELING PROJECT
Interior view no. 1
of wing addition
One of the advantages of an addition is that it allows you to incorporate small luxuries
you’ve dreamed about over time, like the light-soaked window seat shown here.
Interior view no. 2
This addition’s abundant windows not only let light in, they also exploit the spectacular
of wing addition
views surrounding this secluded home. Window placement is key to effectively planning a
successful addition.
Proof 1
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PL ANNING A REMODELING PROJECT
WOR K I NG SA F E LY
Y our personal safety when working on carpentry
projects depends greatly on what safety measures
you take. The power tools sold today offer many
Keep your work environment clean. A cluttered
work area is more likely to result in accidents. Clean
your tools and put them away at the end of every work
safety features, such as blade guards, locks to prevent period, and sweep up dust and debris.
accidental starts, and double insulation to reduce the Some materials emit dangerous fumes or particles.
risk of shock in the event of a short circuit. It’s up to Keep such materials stored away from heat sources
you to take advantage of these safety features. For and out of the reach of children; always use these
example, never operate a saw with the blade guard products in a well-ventilated area.
removed. You risk injury from flying debris as well as Maintaining safety is an ongoing project. Take
from being cut by the blade. the time to update your first-aid kit and evaluate your
Follow all precautions outlined in the owner’s workspace, tools, and safety equipment on a regular
manuals for your tools and make sure you protect basis. To avoid accidents, repair and replace old and
yourself with safety glasses, earplugs, and a dust mask worn-out parts before they break.
or respirator to filter out dust and debris.
Read the owner’s manual before operating any power tool. Some walls may contain asbestos. Many homes built
Your tools may differ in many ways from those described in or remodeled between 1930 and 1950 have older varieties
this book, so it’s best to familiarize yourself with the features of insulation that included asbestos. Consult a professional
and capabilities of the tools you own. Always wear eye and for removal of hazardous pollutants like asbestos, and if you
ear protection when operating a power tool. Wear a dust mask find asbestos or materials that may contain asbestos, do not
when the project will produce dust. attempt to remove them on your own. Even if you determine
that no asbestos is present, it is a good idea to wear a particle
mask and other safety gear when doing demolition.Proof 1
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■ F I R ST-A I D K I T S
PL ANNING A REMODELING PROJECT
Assemble a first-aid kit. Cuts from hand or power tools
can be serious and require prompt and thoughtful
attention. Be prepared for such situations with a
well-equipped first-aid kit that is easy to find. Record
any emergency telephone numbers on the first-aid
kit or by the nearest phone so they are available in
an emergency.
Equip your kit with a variety of items (photo
right), including bandages, needles, tweezers,
antiseptic ointment, cotton swabs, cotton balls, eye
drops, a first-aid handbook, a chemical-filled cold
pack, elastic bandages, first-aid tape, and sterile gauze.
For puncture wounds, cuts, burns, and other
serious injuries, always seek medical attention as soon
as first aid—such as washing and wrapping of cuts—
has been provided.
■ SA F E PR AC T IC E S
GFCI
receptacle
adapter
GFCI extension cord
Keep your tools sharp and clean. Use a GFCI receptacle, adapter, or Check with a neon circuit tester
Accidents are more likely when blades extension cord to reduce the risk of to make sure the power is off before
are dull and tools are filled with sawdust shock while operating a power tool removing cover plates, exposing wires,
and dirt. outdoors or in wet conditions. or drilling or cutting into walls that
contain wiring.
Proof 1
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PL ANNING A REMODELING PROJECT
TOOL S & M AT E R I A L S
B uilding shelves and built-ins is a challenging
job that requires patience, attention to detail,
and the right tool for each task. Without these basic
LAYOUT TOOLS
Layout tools help you measure, mark, and set up
perfect cuts with accuracy. Many layout tools are
requirements, the work will be more difficult and the inexpensive and simply provide a means of measuring
results will suffer. for level, square, and plumb lines. However, recent
Start off right by using high-quality tools. Good technologies have incorporated lasers into levels,
tools last longer and are generally more accurate than stud finders, and tape measures, making them more
less expensive versions. accurate than ever before, though at a slightly higher
Many people buy tools only as they are needed price. Although these new tools are handy in specific
to avoid purchases they will not use. This rationale applications, their higher price is not always warranted
should only apply to power tools and higher-priced for the do-it-yourselfer.
specialty items. A high-quality basic tool set is
important for every do-it-yourselfer to have on hand. • A tape measure is one of the most common tools
Doing so avoids improper tool usage and makes your around. The odds are good that you already own
job easier, with improved results. at least one. (If you are making frequent trips for
The hand tools you will need for most finish building supplies, invest in a second tape that
carpentry jobs can be broken down into two types: stays in your car.) Carpentry projects require a
layout tools and construction tools. It is common sturdy tape measure with a length greater than
for most people to own construction tools, but to your longest stock. A 25-foot tape measure has a
lack necessary layout tools for basic carpentry jobs. wider and thicker reading surface than a 16-foot
Purchase the highest-quality layout tools you can variety, but either is adequate for most carpentry
afford. They are crucial for helping you avoid costly jobs. If you can’t tell the difference between
measuring and marking mistakes. the smaller lines on a standard tape, consider
A
B
C
D
Layout and marking tools for making built-ins include: (above) tape measure
(A), 4' level (B), 2' level (C), combination square (D). (Opposite page) framing square (E),
chalk line (F), stud finder/laser level (G), T-bevel (H), profile gauge (I).Proof 1
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PL ANNING A REMODELING PROJECT
purchasing an “Easy Read” variety. It is
important to read the tape accurately.
• A framing square, also known as a
carpenter’s square, is commonly used to
mark wood for cutting and to check for
square. Framing squares are also used for
laying out stairs and rafters.
E
• Chalk lines are used to make temporary
straight lines anywhere one is needed.
The case of a chalk line, or the “box,” is G
teardrop-shaped so that the tool can double
as a plumb bob. Use a chalk line to mark
sheet goods for cutting or to establish a F
level line in a room. Keep in mind that
chalk can be difficult to remove from
porous surfaces.
• A stud finder is used to locate the framing
members in a wall or ceiling. Higher-priced
versions also locate plumbing, electrical, or
other mechanicals in the wall. Although stud
finders are not completely necessary, they
are convenient for larger jobs.
• Levels are available in a variety of lengths
and price ranges. The longer and more
accurate the level, the higher the price. The I
two most commonly used sizes are 2-foot H
and 4-foot lengths. A 2-foot level is handy for
tight spaces, while the 4-foot variety serves
as a better all-purpose level. Laser levels
are handy for creating a level line around
the perimeter of a room or for establishing
level lines over longer lengths. They provide
a wide range of line or spot placement,
depending on the model.
• A T-bevel is a specialized tool for finding
and transferring angles precisely. T-bevels are
generally used in conjunction with a power
miter saw to find the angle of non-square
corners. This tool is especially handy in older
homes where the original states of square,
plumb, and level may no longer apply.
• A profile gauge uses a series of pins to
recreate the profile of any object so that
you may transfer it to a work piece. Profile
gauges are especially useful when scribing to
an irregular wall.
• A combination square is a multifunction
square that provides an easy reference for
45- and 90-degree angles, as well as marking
reveal lines or a constant specific distance
from the edge of a work piece.
Proof 1
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PL ANNING A REMODELING PROJECT
CONSTRUCTION TOOLS makes them ideal for pulling larger casing nails.
• A good quality hammer is a must for every Pneumatic brad nails and smaller pins will pull
carpentry project. A 16-ounce curved claw out easier with side cutters. Purchase a nail set for
hammer, otherwise known as a finish hammer, is countersinking nail heads. Three-piece sets are
a good all-purpose choice. Some people prefer a available for different nail sizes.
larger straight claw hammer for heavy tear-down • A rasp and metal file set is important for fitting
projects and rough framing, but these hammers are coped joints precisely. The variety of shapes, sizes,
too clumsy and heavy for driving smaller casing and and mills allow for faster rough removal of material,
finish nails, and tend to mar the surface of trim. or smoother slow removal, depending on the file.
• Utility knives are available with fixed, folding, • Use a putty knife to fill nail holes with wood
or retractable blades. This tool is used for a wide filler and for light scraping tasks.
variety of cutting tasks from cutting drywall to
back-beveling miter joints. Always have additional
blades readily available. Folding fixed-blade utility
knives offer the durability and strength of a fixed
blade with the protection of a folding handle.
• A set of chisels is necessary for installing
door hardware as well as notching trim around
obstacles and final fitting of difficult pieces. Keep
a set only for use with wood, and do not use them
for screwdrivers or demolition.
• Block planes are used to fit doors into openings
and remove fine amounts of material from trim. A
finely tuned block plane can even be used to clean
up a sloppy miter joint.
• A coping saw has a thin, flexible blade designed
to cut curves, and is essential for making
professional trim joints on inside corners. Coping
saw blades should be fine toothed, between 16
and 24 teeth per inch for most hardwoods, and set
to cut on the pull stroke of the saw to offer you
more blade control. Pry bars
• A sharp handsaw is convenient for quick cut-
offs and in some instances where power saws are
difficult to control. Purchase a crosscut saw for
general-purpose cutting.
• Protective wear, including safety glasses and Protective
ear protection, is required any time you are wear
working with tools. Dust masks are necessary
when sanding, doing demolition, or when working
around fumes.
• Pry bars come in a variety of sizes and shapes.
A quality forged high-carbon steel flat bar is the
most common choice. Wrecking bars make lighter
work of trim and door removal due to their added
weight. No matter what type of pry bar you use,
protect finished surfaces from scratches with a
block of wood when removing trim.
• Side cutters and end nippers are useful for
cutting off and pulling out bent nails. The added
handle length and curved head of end nippersProof 1
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PL ANNING A REMODELING PROJECT
Putty knife
Handsaws
Nail
sets
Hammer
Utility knives
Coping saw
Rasp and metal file set
Side cutters and end nippers
Block plane
Chisels
Proof 1
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PL ANNING A REMODELING PROJECT
Circular saw
Compound power
miter saw
Jigsaw
Reciprocating saw Cordless drill
POWER TOOLS • A cordless drill is one of the handiest tools
Despite the higher price as compared to hand tools, available. Although drills are not normally used
power tools are a great value. They allow you to work to install trim, they make quick work of installing
more quickly and accurately than with hand tools structural components. Occasionally, trim-head
and make repetitive tasks like sanding, drilling, and screws are used to install trim, in metal studs, or
sawing more enjoyable. Basic home carpentry does not where extra holding power is needed.
require every power tool shown here, but some tools, • A circular saw is ideal for straight cuts in plywood
such as a power miter box, are crucial for professional and quick cut-offs of solid material. Purchase a
results. Purchase power tools on an as-needed basis, plywood blade to make smooth cuts in plywood,
keeping in mind that while the cheapest tool is not and a general-purpose blade for other cuts.
always your best option, the most expensive and • A jigsaw is the perfect tool for cutting curves,
powerful is probably not necessary, either. Cheaper or notching out trim around obstructions. Jigsaw
tools generally sacrifice precision, while the most blades come in an array of designs for different
expensive tools are made for people who use them styles of cuts and different types and thicknesses
every day, not just occasionally. of materials. Always use the right type of blade
and do not force the saw during the cut or it may
bend or break.Proof 1
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PL ANNING A REMODELING PROJECT
Router Random orbit sander
Biscuit joiner
Power Finish
planer sander
Tablesaw
Belt sander
• A biscuit joiner (also called a plate joiner) is a Random-orbit sanders don’t leave circular
specialty tool used with glue and biscuits to make markings as disc sanders do, and can sand in any
strong joints between two pieces of stock. direction regardless of wood grain.
• A reciprocating saw is used for removal and • Finish sanders are available in a variety
tear-down applications. This tool is especially of sizes and shapes for different light
handy for removing door jambs. sanding applications.
• A compound power miter saw will yield • A power planer is used to trim doors to fit
professional results. Most have a 10- or 12-inch- openings and flatten or straighten out materials.
diameter blade. A compound power miter saw has Power planers are faster to use than manual
a head that pivots to cut both bevels and miters. hand planes, but the results are more difficult
Sliding miter saws have more cutting capacity to control.
but are less portable. A fine-tooth carbide-tipped • A tablesaw is the best tool for ripping stock to
blade is best for built-in and shelving projects. width, and larger models can be fitted with a
• A belt sander is not essential but is a handy tool molding head for cutting profiles.
for quick removal of material. • A router (plunge router is shown here) has many
• Random-orbit sanders are a good choice for uses in trim carpentry, especially for cutting edge
smoothing flat areas, such as plywood, quickly. profiles to make your own custom woodwork.
Proof 1
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WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTSProof 1
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WALL, CEILING
& TRIM PROJEC T S
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
W ork on walls, ceilings, and trim often comprises
essential skills for many major construction-based
remodeling projects, some of which will be presented
later in this book. You will likely refer to this chapter
many times in the course of completing the later
projects, and many of the projects here qualify as full-
fledged remodeling projects all on their own. Nothing
refreshes a home like replacing old trim moldings that
were original to your home with new, stylish moldings.
Adding some trim flourishes to walls and ceilings where
none exist can radically transform the look of your
home, making it seem new almost overnight. Removing
a wall can create the much-desired “open concept”
layout, while framing new walls complete with window
and door openings as part of a major basement or attic
remodeling or as part of a structural room addition can
help add valuable living space to your home, greatly
increasing both its functionality and market value.
Pick and choose among these projects at your
leisure, or refer back to this chapter for the skills and
finishing touches you need for major remodeling projects.
■ IN THIS CHAPTER:
• Molding Profiles
• Building Walls
• Building a Wet Wall
• Installing Interior Doors
• Installing a Prehung Interior Door
• Framing Basement Foundation Walls
• Removing a Non-Load-Bearing Wall
• Archways
• Preformed Domes
• Soundproofing a Room
• Stool & Apron Window Trim
• Arts & Crafts Casing
• Basement Window Trim
• Basic Casing
• Built-Up Chair Rail
• Built-Up Crown Molding
• Polymer Crown
• Wall Frame Moldings
• Wainscot Frames
• Coffered Ceilings
• Ceiling Medallions
• Jointless Rail-and-Stile Wainscot
• Raised-Panel Wainscot
• Crown Molding
Proof 1
• Decorative Door Header
• Built-Up Base Molding
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MOL DI NG PROF I L E S Chair Rail Profiles
T
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
rim moldings in stock profiles are available off
the shelf at most home centers. Most molding
manufacturers assign codes such as “WM166,” or
“HWM127” to every profile and size. However, you
will find that the codes are not applied uniformly,
making them virtually worthless if you’re trying to
track down specific molding profiles. The best way to
order molding is to obtain a catalog from your molding
supplier and use its labeling conventions.
There are a few conventions that are fairly
consistently applied. In general, moldings labeled with
a code starting with “WM” are paint-grade or softwood
moldings. “HWM” designates the trim piece as a 11
⁄ 16" × 2½" 7
⁄ 16" × 1 15⁄ 16"
hardwood molding. If you like the style of a softwood
molding, but would prefer to buy the piece in a
hardwood species, ask for the equivalent in hardwood
from the lumberyard sales associate.
Even though moldings are commonly found
under categories such as “baseboard” or “cove,” these 5
⁄ 8" × 2½"
categories relate to the style of the trim piece, not
necessarily where it should be used. In fact, even
among seasoned trim carpenters you’ll frequently
encounter arguments over which type a particular size
or profile belongs to. The similarities are especially
apparent when comparing base molding to case
molding, as the following photos will confirm.
Mini-Glossary of Molding ⁄ 16" × 2 1⁄4"
9
Shapes & Profiles ▸ 11
⁄ 16" × 2 15⁄ 16"
Bead—A rounded profile
Chamfer—A 45° beveled edge profile
Dentil—A series of rectangular blocks spaced close
together to form a border pattern
Flute—A shallow groove with a round profile, usually
running longitudinally on the workpiece in groups of
at least three
Frieze—Horizontal banding on the wall at the wall-
½" × 3"
ceiling joint
Ogee—An S-shape or reverse curve profile
Rosette—A square block with concentric circular
carving, usually placed at the intersection of head 1" × 2" ¾" × 2 1⁄ 8"Proof 1 2C
and side casing
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Case Molding Profiles
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
3
⁄ 8" × 2 11⁄ 16" 3
⁄ 8" × 2 11⁄ 16" ½" × 2 11⁄ 16" 9
⁄ 16" × 2 1⁄ 2" 11
⁄ 16" × 2 3⁄ 16" 9
⁄ 16" × 2 3⁄ 16"
3
⁄ 8" × 3 15⁄ 16" ¾" × 3 1⁄4" 11
⁄ 16" × 3 3⁄ 16" 5
⁄ 8" × 3 3⁄ 16" 5
⁄ 8" × 3 7⁄ 16" 9
⁄ 16" × 3 1⁄4" 3
⁄ 8" × 3 3⁄ 16"
Proof 1 2C
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Base Molding Profiles
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
⁄16" × 2"
7
7
⁄16" × 21⁄4"
½" × 21⁄4"
⁄8" × 23⁄4"
3
⁄8" × 33⁄16"
3
½" × 51⁄8" ½" × 51⁄8" ⁄16" × 41⁄4"
7 7
⁄16" × 41⁄4" 9
⁄16" × 31⁄4"Proof 1
34 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Text SLC Page:34
Cove Molding Profiles
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
5
⁄8" × 5⁄8"
⁄16" × 13⁄4"
9
⁄16" × 2"
9
⁄8" × ¾"
5
½" × 3 ⁄8"
1
Cap Molding Profiles
½" × 11⁄16" ⁄8" × ¾"
5
11
⁄16" × 15⁄8"
5
⁄8" × 13⁄16" 11
⁄16 × 11⁄8"
1" × 3"
¾" × 13⁄8" 11
⁄16" × 13⁄8" ¾" × 1"
Proof 1
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Crown/Bed Molding Profiles
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
½” × 23⁄16”
½" × 33⁄16"
¾" × 41⁄4" ¾" × 41⁄4" ¾" × 41⁄4" ½" × 41⁄4" 9
⁄16" × 13⁄4"
Astragal Molding Profiles
11⁄16" × 73⁄16"
11⁄4" × 21⁄4" 11⁄4" × 2”Proof 1
36 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Text SLC Page:36
Quarter-round Base Shoe Stool Molding
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
11
⁄16" × 11⁄16" ⁄16" × 7⁄16"
7
⁄16" × ¾"
7
⁄8" × 31⁄8"
5
Stop Molding Profiles Corner Molding
3
⁄8" × 13⁄8"
1" × 1" 11
⁄16" × 11⁄16"
3
⁄8" × 1½"
5
⁄16" × 11⁄4"
¾" × ¾"
⁄8" × 1 ⁄16"
3 3 11⁄4" × 11⁄4"
Screen Retainer Profiles Shelf Edge Profiles
3
⁄8" × 11⁄4"
Picture Rail Molding
3
⁄16" × 11⁄16" ½" × 7⁄8"
3
⁄16" × 11⁄16"
⁄16" × 13⁄4"
11 5
⁄8" × 13⁄8"
Proof 1
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BU I L DI NG WA L L S
P
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
artition walls are constructed between load- strong and well made, but their main job is to house
bearing walls to divide space. They should be doors and to support wall coverings.
■ A NC HOR I NG N E W PA R T I T ION WA L L S
Joist
Blocking
2 × 4 blocking
Top plate
Joist
Top plate
Joist
Wall stud Wall stud
Top plate
When a new wall is perpendicular to the ceiling or floor joists When a new wall falls between parallel joists, install 2 × 4
above, attach the top plate directly to the joists, using 16d nails. blocking between the joists every 24". If the new wall is aligned
with a parallel joist, install blocks on both sides of the wall, and
attach the top plate to the joist (inset).
■ WA L L A NATOM Y
Ceiling joists
Ceiling joists
Double top plate Single top plate
Wall studs Wall studs
Cutaway view Cutaway view
Load-bearing walls carry the structural weight of your home. Partition walls are interior walls that do not carry the
In platform-framed houses, load-bearing walls can be identified structural weight of the house. They have a single top plate and
by double top plates made from two layers of framing lumber. can be perpendicular to the floor and ceiling joists but are notProof 1
Load-bearing walls include all exterior walls and any interior aligned above support beams. Any interior wall that is parallel
walls that are aligned above support beams. to floor and ceiling joists is a partition wall.
38 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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■ HOW TO BU I L D A NON - L OA D - BE A R I NG PA R T I T ION WA L L
1 2 3
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Mark the location of the new wall on Cut the top and sole plates to length Mark the location of any door framing
the ceiling, then snap two chalk lines and lay them side by side. Use a speed on the top and sole plates. Refer to the
or use a scrap piece of 2× lumber as a square or framing square to draw pairs door’s rough opening specifications
template to mark layout lines for the top of lines across both plates to mark the when marking the layout. Draw lines for
plate. Use a stud finder to locate floor stud locations. Space the studs at 16" both the king and jack studs.
joists or roof framing above the ceiling, intervals, on center.
and mark these locations with tick
marks or tape outside the layout lines.
4 5 6
Fasten the top plate to the ceiling Option: Rather than toenailing the studs Hang a plumb bob from the edge of
using 3" deck screws or 10d nails. Be to the sole plate, some builders prefer the top plate at several points along its
sure to orient the plate so the stud to attach them by face-nailing through length to find the sole plate location
layout faces down. the underside of the sole plate and into on the floor. The tip of the plumb bob
the bottom ends of the walls studs. should almost touch the floor. Wait until
Then, after the cap plate is installed on it stops moving before marking the
the ceiling, they tip the wall up, nail the sole plate reference point. Connect the
sole plate in position, and then toenail points with a line to establish one edge
or toe-screw the studs to the cap plate. of the sole plate. Use a piece of scrap
Proof 1
2× material as a template for marking
the other edge. (continued)
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7 8 9
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Drive the fasteners into the floor Measure the distance between the Fasten the end wall studs to
framing. For concrete floors, attach the top and sole plates at several places adjoining walls. If the new studs do
sole plate with a powder-actuated nail along the wall to determine the stud not fall at stud locations, you’ll need to
gun or with hardened masonry screws. lengths. The stud length distance may install blocking in the old walls.
Cut out and remove a section of sole vary, depending on structural settling or
plate in the door opening or openings, if an out-of-flat floor. Add 1⁄8" to the stud
any (see page 50). length(s), and cut them to size. The extra
length will ensure a snug fit between
the wall plates.
10 11 12
Nail the king studs, jack studs, a If building codes in your area require Drill holes through the studs to create
header, and a cripple stud in place fire blocking, install 2× cutoff scraps guide holes for wiring and plumbing.
to complete the rough door framing. between the studs, 4' from the floor, to When this work is completed, fasten
See page 49 for more information on serve this purpose. Stagger the blocks metal protector plates over these areas to
framing a door opening. (Inset) An so you can endnail each piece. prevent drilling or nailing through wiringProof 1
option for attaching wall studs to plates and pipes later. Have your work inspected
is to use metal connectors and 4d nails. before proceeding with drywall.
40 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Joining Sections Using Steel Studs ▸
Steel studs and tracks have the same basic structure—a
web that spans two flanged sides—but, studs also contain a
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
¼" lip to improve their rigidity.
A
B
Join sections with a spliced joint (A) or notched joint
(B). Make a spliced joint by cutting a 2" slit in the web of
one track. Slip the other track into the slit and secure with a
screw. For a notched joint, cut back the flanges of one track
and taper the web so it fits into the other track; secure with
a screw.
B
A
Slip stud
Slip stud
Build corners using a slip stud: A slip stud is not fastened until the adjacent drywall is in place. Form L-shaped corners
(A) by overlapping the tracks. Cut off the flange on one side of one track, removing enough to allow room for the overlapping
track and drywall. Form a T-shaped corner (B) by leaving a gap between the tracks for the drywall. Secure each slip stud by
screwing through the stud into the tracks of the adjacent wall. Also screw through the back side of the drywall into the slip
stud, if possible. Where there’s no backing behind the slip stud, drive screws at a 45° angle through the back corners of the
Proof 1
slip stud and into the drywall.
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BU I L DI NG A W E T WA L L
A
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
wet wall is simply a wall that contains plumbing members under various load conditions, as well as the
for water supply and drainage. To accommodate maximum-diameter holes you may drill for running
the drain and vent pipes, which range from 1½ to plumbing and wiring.
3 inches in diameter for branch lines, the wall framing Building a new wet wall or converting an existing
needs to be built with 2 × 6 or larger dimensional wall to house new plumbing requires a building permit
lumber. You can also attach furring strips (usually and an on-site inspection once all of the hook-ups
2 × 2) to existing 2 × 4 framing members to increase are made. Do not install any wallcoverings until
wall thickness. The chart on the next page describes after your plumbing and wiring have been inspected
how deeply you are allowed to notch wall framing and approved.
Tools & Materials ▸
Circular saw Masking tape Plumbing pipes and hangers
Wrecking bar or pry bar Hole saw Dust mask
Drill/driver Jigsaw Goggles
Caulk gun and adhesive Basic plumbing tools Gloves
Hammer Reciprocating saw Ear protection
8d common nails Protective platesProof 1 2C
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Text GSC SLC Page:42
Maximum Hole & Notch Chart ▸
FRAMING MEMBER MAXIMUM HOLE SIZE MAXIMUM NOTCH SIZE The framing member chart shows the maximum sizes
2 × 4 load-bearing stud 1 ⁄16" diameter
7
⁄8" deep
7 for holes and notches that can be cut into studs and
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
joists when running pipes. Where possible, use notches
2 × 4 non-load-bearing stud 2½" diameter 17⁄16" deep
rather than bored holes, because pipe installation is
2 × 6 load-bearing stud 2¼" diameter 13⁄8" deep usually easier. When boring holes, there must be at
2 × 6 non-load-bearing stud 35⁄16" diameter 23⁄16" deep least 5⁄8" of wood between the edge of a stud and the
2 × 6 joists 1½" diameter ⁄8" deep
7 hole, and at least 2" between the edge of a joist and
the hole. Joists can be notched only in the end 1⁄3 of the
2 × 8 joists 23⁄8" diameter 1¼" deep
overall span; never in the middle 1⁄3 of the joist. When
2 × 10 joists 3 ⁄16" diameter
1
1½" deep two pipes are run through a stud, the pipes should be
2 × 12 joists 3¾" diameter 1 ⁄8" deep
7 stacked one over the other, never side by side.
Sizing for Water Distribution Pipes ▸
FIXTURE UNIT RATING SIZE OF MAXIMUM LENGTH (FT.)—
SIZE OF TOTAL FIXTURE UNITS
Toilet 3 SERVICE PIPE
DISTRIBUTION PIPE
FROM STREET
Vanity sink 1 FROM WATER METER 40 60 80 100 150 200
Shower 2 ¾" ½" 9 8 7 6 5 4
Bathtub 2 ¾" ¾" 27 23 19 17 14 11
Dishwasher 2 ¾" 1" 44 40 36 33 28 23
Kitchen sink 2 1" 1" 60 47 41 36 30 25
Clothes washer 2 1" 11⁄4" 102 87 76 67 52 44
Utility sink 2
Sillcock 3
Water distribution pipes are the main pipes extending from the water meter throughout the house, supplying water to the
branch pipes leading to individual fixtures. To determine the size of the distribution pipes, you must first calculate the total demand
in “fixture units” (above, left) and the overall length of the water supply lines, from the street hookup through the water meter
and to the most distant fixture in the house. Then, use the second table (above, right) to calculate the minimum size for the water
distribution pipes.
Sizes for Branch Pipes & Supply Tubes ▸
FIXTURE MIN. BRANCH PIPE SIZE MIN. SUPPLY TUBE SIZE PIPE SUPPORT INTERVALS
Toilet ½" ⁄8"
3
TYPE VERTICAL-RUN HORIZONTAL-RUN
OF SUPPORT SUPPORT
Vanity sink ½" ⁄8"
3
PIPE INTERVAL INTERVAL
Shower ½" ½"
Copper 10' 6'
Bathtub ½" ½"
PEX 5' 3'
Dishwasher ½" ½"
CPVC 10' 3'
Kitchen sink ½" ½"
PVC 10' 4'
Clothes washer ½" ½"
Steel 12' 10'
Utility sink ½" ½"
Iron 15' 5'
Sillcock ¾" N.A.
Water heater ¾" N.A.
Branch pipes are the water supply lines that run from the Minimum intervals for supporting pipes are determined
distribution pipes toward the individual fixtures. Supply tubes by the type of pipe and its orientation in the system.
are the vinyl, chromed copper, or braided tubes that carry Remember that the measurements shown above are
Proof 1
water from the branch pipes to the fixtures. minimum requirements.
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■ HOW TO BU I L D & PLU M B A W E T WA L L
1
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Clear the work area. If you are remodeling an existing wall to contain plumbing for a new kitchen or bathroom, you’ll need to
completely remove the wall coverings so you can fur out the wall studs. This project requires a building permit and at least one on-
site inspection. Shut off power at the main service panel before cutting into walls.
2 3 4
Begin removing wallcoverings on Next, use a wrecking bar to pry the Remove old drywall screws
the entire wall. There are many ways wallcovering loose. Work in sections that or nails that remain in the wall-
to go about this. One is to set your are large, but manageable. Discard the framing members.
circular saw to a cutting depth equal to material you remove immediately.
the wallcovering thickness and makeProof 1
a few starter cuts. Remove any cover
plates on the wall before you start.
44 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Text SLC Page:44
5 6
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Cut 2 × 2 furring strips to length. Start with the sole plate Attach the furring strips to the wall framing members
of the wall. Apply a bead of construction adhesive to the 2 × 2. with 8d finish or casing nails. Drive a nail every 12 to 16".
7 8
Install the vertical furring strips next, using nails and If you are installing a drain for a tub or shower, mark
construction adhesive. Finally, attach furring strips to the wall out the location of the drain onto the subfloor. Remove
cap plate. Re-route wiring in the wall according to your plan. floorcoverings first. Mark a center point for the drainage pipe
If you are keeping receptacles or switches in the same place, onto the sole plate. The pipe should align with the location for the
you’ll still need to move the boxes forward in the wall cavity so drain trap. If your plan calls for it, drill additional holes for fixture
the edges will be flush with the new wall surface. drains, such as the wall sink stub-out being installed in this wall.
9 10
Drill holes for the drain pipes using a hole saw that’s Feed sections of drain pipe up through the holes in the
slightly larger than the outside diameter of the new pipe. In sole plate and floor (if you are tying in to the plumbing on the
most cases, a 2"-dia. pipe is adequate for this type of branch floor below—the easiest way to tap into the existing plumbing
drain (see table, page 43), so a 2½" hole saw is a good choice. system). Connect the drain line to a drainage stack, maintaining
Proof 1
a slope of at least ¼" per ft. It is always a good idea to include a
cleanout on the new branch line. (continued)
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11 12
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Cut notches in the wall-framing members to hold the Cut the horizontal lines to length and set them into the
horizontal plumbing in the drain lines. See chart on page 43. notches. You can hold them in place with tape if they don’t
Cut no deeper than needed to hold the pipes. stay put.
13 14
Attach a 90° elbow to the end of the new horizontal line With the drain pipes seated in the fitting below the
so it aligns with the drain pipe coming up through the floor. The floor (but not cemented), mark the free ends of the vertical
other end of horizontal pipe is fitted with a tee fitting so the vent pipes for cutting at the points where they will join the fittings on
line can be extended up through the cap plate and ceiling. the horizontal line. Dry-fit this union. Do not cement yet.
15 16
Remove the subfloor in the section you’ve laid out for the Reach into the hole in the subfloor and mark the vertical
drain. Cut with a jigsaw, using a starter hole if you need to. If pipe for cutting to accept a tee fitting. The tee should have a
you’ve planned the drain location wisely it will not fall over a slight sweep downward. Normally, the open end of the tee isProof 1
floor joist. sized for a 1½"-dia. drain tube to run from the vertical drain line
to the drain trap.
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17 18
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Remove the drain pipes and cut them to the lengths Cement the reducing tee into the drain line for the tub,
you’ve marked. making sure to orient the sweep correctly and to align the
opening with the drain trap location.
19 20
Cement a reducing tee into the drain line for the sink Cement the drain lines into the drain fittings from below.
stub-out. Solvent-cement the branch drain line components on the floor
below, tying the line into the main drain stack or another large
branch drain.
21 22 23
Connect the vent pipe from the wet Install cold and hot water supply Solder supply stub-outs onto the
wall with another vent line in the attic lines, connecting from the floor below. new water lines. Install protective metal
or, if you prefer, run it out through the plates on the wall studs to cover pipe
roof and flash and cover it according to (and electrical cable) penetrations.
your local plumbing codes. Have your work inspected and, when
Proof 1
approved, you may go ahead and
install wallcoverings.
47CGHI_030-119_11984.indd 47 12/1/17 4:57 PM CGHI_030-119_11984.indd 47 Job: 11984 Title: #225388_Black & Decker Of Home Improvement (MBI) 12/1/17 4:55 PM Text SLC Page:47
I NSTA L L I NG I N T E R IOR DOOR S
C
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
reating an opening for a door in a wall involves Door framing requires flat, straight, and dry
building a framework about 1 inch wider and framing lumber, so choose your king, jack, and header
½ inch taller than the door’s jamb frame. This pieces carefully. Sight down the edges and ends
oversized opening, called a rough opening, will to look for warpage, and cut off the ends of pieces
enable you to position the door easily and shim with splits.
it plumb and level. Before framing a door, it’s
always a good idea to buy the door and refer to
the manufacturer’s recommendations for rough
opening size.
Tools & Materials ▸
Doorframes consist of a pair of full-length Tape measure 10d or pneumatic
king studs and two shorter jack studs that support Framing square framing nails
the header above the door. A header provides an Hammer or nail gun 3
⁄8" plywood (for
attachment point for wallboard and door casings. Handsaw or structural headers)
On load-bearing walls, it also helps to transfer the reciprocating saw Construction adhesive
building’s structural loads from above down into the Framing lumber Eye and ear protection
wall framework and eventually the foundation.Proof 1
Creating a square, properly sized opening for a door is the most important element of a successful door installation project.
48 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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■ HOW TO F R A M E A ROUG H OPE N I NG FOR A N I N T E R IOR PR E H U NG DOOR
Doorframes for prehung doors (left)
Top plate start with king studs that attach to the top
and bottom plates. Inside the king studs,
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
jack studs support the header at the top
of the opening. Cripple studs continue
the wall-stud layout above the opening.
In non-load-bearing walls, the header
Header may be a 2 × 4 laid flat or a built-up
header (below). The dimensions of the
framed opening are referred to as the
Cripple stud rough opening.
King stud
Built-up header
Construction adhesive
Jack stud 2×
½" plywood
2×
Bottom plate
To mark the layout for the doorframe,
measure the width of the door unit along
the bottom. Add 1" to this dimension to
determine the width of the rough opening
(the distance between the jack studs).
This gives you a ½" gap on each side for
adjusting the doorframe during installation.
Mark the top and bottom plates for the
jack and king studs.
Door unit width
Extra ½" Extra ½"
Jack stud marking Jack stud marking
Proof 1
King stud marking King stud marking
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■ HOW TO FRAME A PREHUNG INTERIOR DOOR OPENING (LOAD-BEARING)
1 2 3
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
King stud
Jack stud
Door framing on load-bearing walls Mark layout lines for the king and jack Cut the jack studs to length (they
will require a structural header that studs on the wall’s top and sole plates should rest on the sole plate). The height
transfers loads above the wall into (see page 39). Cut the king studs slightly of a jack stud for a standard interior
the jack studs, sole plate, and down longer than the distance between the door is 83½", or ½" taller than the door.
into the house foundation. Build it by wall plates, and toenail them in place Nail the jack studs to the king studs.
sandwiching a piece of ½" plywood with 10d nails or 3" pneumatic nails.
between two 2 × 4s. Use construction
adhesive and nails to fasten the
header together.
4 5 6
Install the built-up header by resting Fasten a cripple stud above the Cut a sole plate opening for the door
it on the jack studs and endnailing header halfway between the king studs with a reciprocating saw or handsaw.
through the king studs. Use 10d nails or for use as a nailing surface. Trim the sole plate flush with the jackProof 1
3" pneumatic nails. studs. Install the saw blade teeth-up for
better access.
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Text SLC Page:50
■ HOW TO F R A M E A N OPE N I NG FOR A NON - L OA D - BE A R I NG WA L L
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Variation: In a non-load-bearing wall, the header can be a piece of 2× framing lumber that lays flat on top of the jack studs. Cut it
to length, and install by endnailing through the king studs or down into the jack studs. Toenail a cripple stud between the top plate
and header, halfway between the king studs. It transfers structural loads into the header.
Option: Framing Openings for Sliding & Folding Doors ▸
The same basic framing techniques are used whether you’re planning to install a Most bifold doors are designed to
sliding, bifold, pocket, or prehung interior door. The different door styles require different fit in an 80"-high finished opening.
frame openings. You may need to frame an opening two to three times wider than the Wood bifold doors have the
opening for a standard prehung door. Purchase the doors and hardware in advance, advantage of allowing you to trim the
and consult the hardware manufacturer’s instructions for the exact dimensions of the doors, if necessary, to fit openings
Proof 1
rough opening and header size for the type of door you select. that are slightly shorter.
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I NSTA L L I NG A PR E H U NG I N T E R IOR DOOR
I
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
nstall prehung interior doors after the framing work
is complete and the drywall has been installed.
If the rough opening for the door has been framed
accurately, installing the door takes about an hour.
Standard prehung doors have 4½-inch-wide jambs
and are sized to fit walls with 2 × 4 construction and
½-inch wallboard. If you have 2 × 6 construction or
thicker wall surface material, you can special order a
door to match, or you can add jamb extensions to a
standard-sized door (photo, below).
Tools & Materials ▸
Level Wood shims
Hammer 8d casing nails
Handsaw Eye and ear protection
Prehung interior door
Tip: Jamb Extensions ▸
Jamb extension
If your walls are built with 2 × 6 studs, you’ll need to
extend the jambs by attaching wood strips to the edges of
the jamb after the door is installed. Use glue and 4d casing
nails when attaching jamb extensions.Proof 1
52 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A PR E H U NG I N T E R IOR DOOR
1 2 3
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Slide the door unit into the framed Insert pairs of wood shims driven Anchor the hinge-side jamb with 8d
opening so the edges of the jambs from opposite directions into the gap casing nails driven through the jamb
are flush with the wall surface and the between the framing members and and shims and into the jack stud.
hinge-side jamb is plumb. the hinge-side jamb, spaced every 12".
Check the hinge-side jamb to make sure
it is still plumb and does not bow.
4 5
Insert pairs of shims in the gap between the framing Cut the shims flush with the wall surface, using a
members and the latch-side jamb and top jamb, spaced every handsaw. Hold the saw vertically to prevent damage to the
12". With the door closed, adjust the shims so the gap between door jamb or wall. Finish the door and install the lockset as
door edge and jamb is 1⁄8" wide. Drive 8d casing nails through directed by the manufacturer. See pages 73 to 79 to install trim
Proof 1
the jambs and shims, into the framing members. around the door.
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F R A M I NG BA SE M E N T Tools & Materials ▸
FOU N DAT ION WA L L S Tape measure
Plumb bob
3" deck screws
10d nails (coated if using
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Combination square treated lumber)
Powder-actuated nailer or pneumatic
Y ou can use conventional wall-framing techniques
to turn an unused basement into a warm,
inviting living space. Stud walls provide deep bays for
or hammer drill
Pneumatic nailer
framing nails
PAT fasteners
or hammer or masonry screws
insulation and allow you to use ordinary receptacle Miter saw or circular saw Metal protector plates
boxes for wall outlets. Fully framed walls will be Staple gun Rolled insulation
stronger than the furring strip method discussed on Utility knife 6-mil vapor barrier
page 45, and they may be your only option if your Drywall finishing tools Moisture-resistant
basement walls aren’t flat and plumb. The downside Framing materials wallboard
to framing your basement walls is that the material
costs will be greater than using furring strips and
foam insulation. Stud walls will also reduce the size
of the room, which may be an issue if you have a for water infiltration through cinder block or poured
small basement. basement walls, it’s a good idea to build your walls
Assembling a stud wall next to a foundation wall about ½ inch away from the foundation to create an
is essentially the same process as building a wall airspace. This gap will also be useful for avoiding any
elsewhere. However, since there’s always the potential unevenness in your foundation walls.
■ HOW TO F R A M E A BA SE M E N T FOU N DAT ION WA L L
1 2 3
Mark the location of the new wall Hang a plumb bob from the top Fasten the top plate to the floor joists
on the floor joists above, then use a plate layout lines to mark the sole plate using 3" deck screws or 10d nails (top).
scrap piece of 2 × 4 as a template to position on the floor. Move the bob along Be sure to orient the plate so the stud
draw layout lines for the new top plate. the top plate and mark the sole plate at layout faces down. Attach the sole plate
Position the top plate about ½" away several points on the floor. Set a piece of to the concrete floor with a powder-
from the foundation wall to create an scrap 2 × 4 in place on the floor to make actuated nailer (lower) or with hardened
airspace. If the joists run parallel to the sure the sole plate will still allow for an masonry screws. Drill pilot holes for the
foundation wall, nail blocking between air gap. Draw pairs of lines across both screws with a hammer drill.Proof 1
them to create attachment points for plates with a combination square to
the new wall. mark stud locations.
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4 5 6
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Measure the distance between the Toenail the studs in place. Add Drill holes through the studs
top and sole plates at several places framing around any basement windows to create raceways for wiring and
along the wall to determine the stud and install fire blocking if local codes plumbing. Install these systems and
lengths. The stud length distance may require it. fasten metal protector plates over
vary, depending on structural settling or these areas to prevent drilling or nailing
an out-of-flat floor. Add 1⁄8" to the stud through wiring and pipes later. Have
length(s), and cut them to size. your work inspected before proceeding
with insulation and wallboard.
7 8 9
Install rolled insulation in the stud Staple 6-mil plastic sheeting to Install your wallcovering of choice.
bays. Using plastic encapsulated the wall studs to form a vapor barrier If you choose drywall, finish the seams
insulation is a good preventive measure behind the finished wall. Cut holes in with drywall compound and tape as
against mold growth. Otherwise, use the plastic for receptacle openings. usual. Be sure to use moisture-resistant
kraft-faced insulation. Note: There is considerable debate over drywall for basement walls (some
whether or not you should employ a new drywall products are also mold-
vapor barrier on a basement wall, mostly and mildew-resistant—ask at your
because the barrier can trap water that building center).
Proof 1
enters from the exterior. Check with your
local building inspector.
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■ HOW TO F R A M E S OF F I T S A N D C H A SE S
1 2
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Install 2 × 4 blocking between floor joists to form a square Build another square framework on the floor that matches
framework around the obstruction. Use 3" deck screws to the size of the top frame. Make this frame from treated lumber,
fasten the framework in place. and fasten it to the concrete with a powder-actuated nailer or
a hammer drill and masonry screws. Hang a plumb bob down
from the top frame to find the exact location of this bottom
frame before attaching it.
3 4
Toenail four 2 × 4 studs between the two frames to If the chase encloses a DWV stack or other plumbing
complete the chase framework. Finish the chase with drywall, with valves or cleanouts, be sure to build an access panel in
metal corner bead, and drywall compound. the chase to keep these areas accessible. Use furring strips
or plywood behind two sides of the access opening to formProof 1
tabs that hold the access panel in place. Attach the panel with
screws, and glue on decorative trim to hide the drywall edges.
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Where to Use a Soffit ▸
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Wall stud
Air duct
Recessed lighting fixture
Fireblocking
Soffit frame
Hide immovable obstructions in a soffit built from dimension lumber or steel and covered with drywall or other finish
material. An extra-wide soffit is also a great place to install recessed lighting fixtures.
■ HOW TO F R A M E A F U R N AC E DUC T
1 2 3
Build a pair of ladder-like frames Set the frames against the sides of Install 2 × 2 crosspieces between the
that match the side dimensions of the the duct, and fasten them to the floor frames to provide attachment points
furnace duct from standard 2 × 2s. joists above with 3" deck screws. below the duct for drywall. Then finish
Proof 1
Fasten the parts together with 3" the soffit with drywall, metal corner
deck screws. bead, and drywall compound.
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R E MOV I NG A NON - LOA D - BE A R I NG WA L L
R
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
emoving an existing interior wall is an easy way
to create more usable space without the expense
of building an addition. Removing a wall turns two
small rooms into a large space perfect for family living.
Adding new walls in a larger area creates a private
space to use as a quiet study or as a new bedroom.
Be sure the wall you plan to remove is not load
bearing before you begin (see page 38). If you need to
remove a load-bearing wall, check with a contractor
or building inspector first. Load-bearing walls carry
the weight of the structure above them. You’ll need to
install a temporary support wall to take the place of
the structural wall you’re removing.
Remember that walls also hold the essential
mechanical systems that run through your home.
You need to consider how your project affects these
mechanicals. Turn off electrical power at the service
panel before you begin demolition.
Tools & Materials ▸
Stud finder Reciprocating
Tape measure or circular saw
Utility knife Drill
Hammer Eye and ear protection
Pry bars
■ HOW TO R E MOV E A NON - L OA D - BE A R I NG WA L L
1 2 3
Use a utility knife to score the Use the side of a hammer to punch a Reroute outlets, switches, plumbing,
intersections where the wall you’re starter hole in the drywall, then carefully or ductwork. Have professionals do
removing meets the ceiling to keep remove the drywall with a pry bar. Try this for you if you are not experienced
from damaging it during wall removal. to pull off large sections at a time to with these systems or confident in your
Pry away baseboard trim and remove minimize dust. Remove any remaining skills. This work should be inspectedProof 1
receptacle plates and switch covers to drywall nails or screws from the after it is completed.
prepare for demolition. wall studs.
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4 5 6
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Locate the closest permanent studs Remove the wall studs by cutting Cut through the wall’s top plate with
on the adjacent wall or walls with a stud through them in the middle with a a circular saw or reciprocating saw. Pry
finder, and carefully remove the drywall reciprocating saw and prying out the out the top plate sections carefully to
up to these studs. Score the drywall upper and lower sections. Remove the avoid damaging the ceiling.
first with a utility knife, then cut through endmost studs where the wall meets an
it with a circular saw. adjacent wall or walls.
7 8
Proof 1
Remove the sole plate just as you did the top plate by Patch the walls and ceiling with strips of drywall, and repair
cutting through it and prying up the long pieces. the floor as needed with new floor coverings.
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A RC H WAYS
W
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
hile an arch may be framed and drywalled on
site, polyurethane inserts create a symmetrical
arch in the style of your choosing much more easily,
making them popular among pros and DIYers alike.
This arch was ordered to fit, so no further cutting or
fitting was needed. Note that polyurethane products
carve and sand like wood, so it’s better to run thicker
rather than thinner when attempting to match your
wall thickness.
Tools & Materials ▸
Work gloves Drywall screws
Eye and ear protection Arch inserts
Framing lumber Panel adhesive
Hammer and nails Corner bead
Drywall panels Finishing materials
Screwgun
Where to cut in? ▸
If you are simply adding an arch to an existing passageway,
use a hacksaw and utility knife to cut free corner bead in
the area that will receive the arch inserts. Prying out bead
will leave an indent for tape and mud. Leave enough corner
bead at the sides so arch overlaps bead by about ¾".
Cut here
Cut here A framed and drywalled archway divides a large space
into smaller, more intimate spaces and makes a dramatic
design statement in the process.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO BU I L D A N A RC H WAY
1 2
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Frame a partition wall with the alcove opening roughed in Attach drywall to all surfaces of the framed partition wall
as a rectangle. Secure the frame so it is plumb and square to except the bottom of the door header. Avoid creating a drywall
the ceiling joists, the adjacent wall studs (if possible), and to seam on the king stud.
the floor.
3 4
Install corner beads and arches so the arch inserts will Tape, fill, and finish all seams, exposed fastener heads, and
overlap the bead by ¾". Typically, arches are secured with panel corners of the partition wall. Trim and finish the arched partition
adhesive and screws. wall to match existing walls.
Proof 1
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PR E FOR M E D DOM E S
D
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
omes and other three-dimensional features may
be ordered preformed. The one we installed Tools & Materials ▸
here is made of polyurethane. The most difficult
Work gloves
and critical steps in dome installation involve the
Eye and ear protection
modifications you must make to the ceiling framing.
Compass
Joists under a roof and the bottom chords of roof
Straightedge
trusses are often under tension since the split-leg
Screwgun
action of roof rafters pushes out against the walls
Drywall screws
on which they rest. Joists lower in the building may
Framing lumber
be supporting tremendous loads that aren’t obvious.
Spiral saw
Therefore, before you cut through structural members, Hole saw
you must have a framing-modification plan drawn up Insulation (if necessary)
by a qualified structural engineer. In most localities, Light fixture
these drawings need to be approved by a building Caulk
inspector in order to get a building permit to do Finishing materials
the work.
A simple domed shape transforms an ordinary ceiling into a grand design statement, especially when the dome is appointedProof 1
with an attractive ceiling light or chandelier. This Fypon dome is fabricated from urethane foam and installed as one piece.
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■ PR E FOR M E D DOM E ST Y L E S
A plain round dome is hard to beat for
versatility and ease of installation. This
fabricated dome does require that you
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
either remove sections of ceiling joist
or create a lower ceiling with a furred-
out framework.
Proof 1
Ornate domes add high drama, especially when they include a chandelier or an intricate medallion.
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A PR E FOR M E D DOM E
1 2
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Trace the dome onto cardboard in an upside-down Scribe a second, smaller circle inside the outline by setting
position, and transfer four alignment lines onto the outline. a compass or scribe slightly less than the width of the flange
Since this outline includes the flange, it’s larger than the hole and following along the outline. Use a straightedge and marker
you need to cut in the ceiling. to connect the opposite alignment marks, forming a cross. Cut
out the inside circle to make your template.
3 4
Screw the cardboard template to the ceiling. The Cut through the drywall and framing at the edge of
alignment cross may be used to center a round dome or to the template. Add reenforcement framing as specified by a
make an oval dome parallel with a wall. Transfer the alignment qualified structural engineer. Add trimmers and blocking to theProof 1
marks to the ceiling with a pencil to guide positioning of the dome edges at screw locations. Add insulation if necessary,
domes that are oval or imperfectly round. above the dome.
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5 6
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Prepare for a fixture box if a light fixture or fan will be hung Cut a hole for the light fixture wiring in the center of the dome.
in the dome. Drill a 1" hole in the center of the dome. Raise A hole saw that’s slightly bigger than the round electrical fixture
framing above the ceiling opening to secure an electric fixture box works. For larger or more challenging openings, use a spiral
box above the center of the opening. Dome specifications will saw to cut the outline of the fixture box in the dome.
determine how far to recess the fixture box from the face of the
ceiling. Typically, the face of the fixture box should be flush with
the finished (visible) face of the dome. You may temporarily
attach the dome to help position the fixture box.
7 8
Apply polyurethane construction adhesive to the back of Hang your light or fan and caulk all air gaps through and
the dome flange. Lift the dome into place with helpers, aligning around the fixture box. Caulk the seam where the dome
the ceiling and dome alignment marks and fitting the dome flange meets the ceiling. Cover the fastener heads with joint
around the electrical box. Attach the flange of the dome to the compound. Finish the dome with ceiling paint.
Proof 1
blocking through the ceiling with drywall screws. Countersink
the screw heads slightly.
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SOU N DPROOF I NG A ROOM
H
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
ome theaters are quickly becoming a common Adding mass to walls and ceilings is an effective
feature in many homes. And while finding an way to block sound. In new construction, staggered-
affordable yet impressive multimedia system is no stud partitions or double stud partitions (two adjacent
longer a problem, finding a space within your home to rows of studs) are possibilities. Hanging soundproofing
enjoy it may not be so easy. The walls of the average board, sound-rated drywall, or multiple layers of
house are not designed to contain extreme sound levels. drywall can increase STC ratings significantly. Two of
To combat this issue, there are numerous soundproofing the most effective systems are resilient channels and
products and materials available to help keep those on mass loaded vinyl (MLV) underlayment, a heavy vinyl
both sides of a home theater wall happy. sheeting that many manufacturers claim can more than
Engineers rate the soundproofing performance double a wall’s STC rating.
of wall and ceiling assemblies using a system called For sound absorption, closed-cell acoustical foam
Sound Transmission Class (STC). Standard partition matting can be used to insulate between drywall
walls carry STC ratings of 28 to 32. Determining panels and framing. Similarly, padded tape minimizes
an appropriate STC rating for your home theater transmission of sound vibration between wall panels and
is dependent on a number of factors, such as the framing, and can be used to line resilient channels for
power of your multimedia system and the type of added insulation. Sound isolation mounting clips contain
room opposite the wall. But a minimum of 60 STC is molded neoprene to provide added insulation between
adequate for most. Remember: The higher the STC resilient channels and framing. Vibration pads made of
rating, the more sound is blocked. cork and closed-cell acoustical foam or neoprene isolate
But blocking sound is not the only consideration. sound vibration to reduce transmission between objects.
The low frequencies generated by subwoofers cause When fastening soundproofing and drywall panels
vibrations, which in turn create unwanted noise to resilient channels, leave a ¼-inch gap between
within the room. The most effective approach for all panels at corners and fill the gaps with acoustical
soundproofing a home theater is to install both sound caulk. In fact, all gaps, seams, and cracks should be
barriers to minimize sound escaping and sound filled with acoustical caulk. The more airtight a home
absorbers to reduce noise within the room. theater, the more soundproof it is.
Closed-cell foam
Padding tape
Insulation
⁄8" fire-rated gypsum board
5
Sound-board joints caulk
Stagger joints
¼" closed-cell Corner detail
Floor gap filled with caulk Mass loaded vinyl
Sound-deadening board
2" vibration pads
CaulkProof 1
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■ SOU N DPROOF I NG A ROOM
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Use contact cement to glue ¼" closed-cell acoustical matting Apply self-adhesive padded tape to resilient channels or
directly to existing wall and ceiling surfaces or to the backside directly to the edges of framing members.
of drywall panels in new construction.
Staple MLV (mass loaded vinyl) Install 2" vibration pads every 2' Seal all gaps between panels
underlayment directly to framing between flooring and installed drywall and at wall and ceiling joints with
members, between layers of drywall panels. Fasten baseboard into framing acoustical caulk.
and soundproofing board, or directly only, not into vibration pads.
to existing wall and ceiling surfaces.
Overlap seams by at least 6".
Proof 1
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STOOL & A PRON
W I N DOW T R I M
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
S tool and apron trim brings a traditional look to a
window and is most commonly used with double-
hung styles. The stool serves as an interior sill; the
apron (or the bottom casing) conceals the gap between
the stool and the finished wall.
In many cases, such as with 2 × 6 walls, jamb
extensions made from 1× finish-grade lumber need to
be installed to bring the window jambs flush with the
finished wall. Many window manufacturers also sell
jamb extensions for their windows.
The stool is usually made from 1× finish-grade
lumber, cut to fit the rough opening, with “horns” at
each end extending along the wall for the side casings
to butt against. The horns extend beyond the outer
edge of the casing by the same amount that the front
edge of the stool extends past the face of the casing,
usually under 1 inch.
If the edge of the stool is rounded, beveled, or
otherwise decoratively routed, you can create a more
finished appearance by returning the ends of the stool
to hide the end grain. A pair of miter cuts at the rough The window stool and apron give the window a finished
horn will create the perfect cap piece for wrapping appearance while offering the practical advantage of a
the grain of the front edge of the stool around the window sill.
horn. The same can be done for an apron cut from a
molded casing.
As with any trim project, tight joints are the secret
to a successful stool and apron trim job. Take your Safety Tip ▸
time to ensure all the pieces fit tightly. Also, use a
pneumatic nailer; you don’t want to spend all that time
shimming the jambs perfectly only to knock them out
of position with one bad swing of a hammer.
Tools & Materials ▸
Tape measure Pneumatic nailer
Straightedge (optional)
Circular saw or jigsaw 1× finish lumber
Handsaw, plane, or rasp Casing
Drill Wood shims
Hammer 4d, 6d, and 8d finish
Utility knife nails
Jigsaw Wood glue
Compass T-bevel Back-cut the ends of casing pieces where needed to
Combination square Eye and ear protection help create tight joints, using a sharp utility knife.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L STOOL & A PRON W I N DOW T R I M
1 2
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Setback
Edge of window
rough opening
Stool
Setback
Setback Waste
Horn
Stool
Temporary support block
Cut the board for the stool to length, with several extra Cut out the notches to create the stool horns. For straight lines,
inches at each end for the horns. Temporarily position the stool you can use a large handsaw, but for the scribed line use a more
in the window opening, pressed against the wall and centered maneuverable saw like the jigsaw or a coping saw. Test-fit the
on the window. Use a combination square to measure the stool, making any minor adjustments with a plane or a rasp so it
setback distance from the window frame to the near edge of fits tightly to the window frame and flush against the walls.
the stool. Mark the setback onto the stool at each edge of the
window rough opening (if the measurements are different,
use the greater setback distance for each end). Then use a
compass and pencil to scribe the profile of the wall onto the
stool to complete the cutting line for the horn (inset photo).
3 Horn
Waste
Cutlines
45°
45°
Return
Return
To create a return at the horn of the stool, miter-cut the return pieces at 45° angles. Mark the stool at its overall length and
cut it to size with 45° miter cuts. Glue the return to the mitered end of the horn so the grain wraps around the corner. Note: Use this
Proof 1
same technique to create the returns on the apron, but make the cuts with the apron held on edge, rather than flat.
(continued)
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Tip ▸ 4
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Straightedge guide
Width at top left corner
Workpiece
1× lumber
Width at top right corner
Clamp the jig on the reference line, and rip the extension
to width. Using a circular saw, keep the baseplate tight
against the jig and move the saw smoothly through the board.
Reposition the clamp when you near the end of the cut. Cut
Where jamb extensions are needed, cut the head both side extensions to length and width, using the same
extension to its finished length—the distance between technique as for the head extension (see TIP at left).
the window side jambs plus the thickness of both side
extensions (typically 1× stock). For the width, measure the
distance between the window jamb and the finished wall at
each corner; then mark the measurements on the ends of
the extension. Use a straightedge to draw a reference line 6
connecting the points. Build a simple cutting jig, as shown.
5 Stool
Side extensions
Head extension
Apply wood glue to the back edge of the frame, and
position it against the front edge of the window jambs. Use
Build a box frame with the extensions and stool, using 6d wood shims to adjust the frame, making sure the pieces
finish nails and a pneumatic nailer. Measure to make sure the are flush with the window jambs. Fasten the frame at each
box has the same dimensions as the window jambs. Drive nails shim location, using 8d finish nails driven through pilot holes.Proof 1
through the top of the head extension into the side extensions Loosely pack insulation between the studs and the jambs, or
and through the bottom of the stool into side extensions. use minimal-expanding spray foam.
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7 Reveal mark 8 Head casing
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Reveal
Stool
On the edge of each jamb or jamb extension, mark a 3⁄16 Cut the side casings to rough length, leaving the ends
to ¼" reveal. Place a length of casing along the head extension, slightly long for final trimming. Miter one end at 45°. With the
aligned with the reveal marks at the corners. Mark where pointed end on the stool, mark the height of the side casing at
the reveal marks intersect, then make 45° miter cuts at each the top edge of the head casing.
point. Reposition the casing at the head extension and attach,
using 4d finish nails at the extensions and 6d finish nails at the
framing members.
9 10 11
To get a tight fit for side casings, Test-fit the casings, making any final Cut the apron to length, leaving a
align one side of a T-bevel with the adjustments with a plane or rasp. Fasten few inches at each end for creating the
reveal, mark the side extension, and the casing with 4d finish nails at the returns (step 3). Position the apron tight
position the other side flush against the extensions and 6d finish nails at the against the bottom edge of the stool,
horn. Transfer the angle from the T-bevel framing members. and then attach it, using 6d finish nails
Proof 1
to the end of the casing, and cut the driven every 12".
casing to length.
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A RT S & CR A F T S CASI NG Tools & Materials ▸
Tape measure Compass
Straightedge Nail set
T
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
raditional Arts & Crafts casings are made of Power miter saw 1 × 4 finish lumber
simple, flat materials with little to no decorative Circular saw Back band trim
molding trimmed out of the stock. Add nonmitered or jigsaw Wood shims
corners to the mix, and this casing becomes as plain Handsaw 4d, 6d, and 8d finish
as possible. The back band installed on the perimeter Plane or rasp nails
of this project is optional, but it adds depth to the Drill hammer Finishing putty
window treatment while maintaining a simple style. Pneumatic nailer Eye and ear protection
Traditionally, the wood used for this style of trim is Combination square
quartersawn oak. The term “quartersawn” refers to the
method of milling the material. Quartersawn oak is easily
distinguishable from plain-sawn oak by its tight grain
pattern laced with rays of lighter color also known as
rifts. Quartersawn oak is more expensive than plain oak To begin the installation of this trim style, refer to
and may only be available at lumberyards or hardwood pages 69 and 71 to read the step-by-step process for
supply stores, depending upon your area. Either plain- installing jamb extensions, if necessary, and the stool
sawn or quartersawn oak will fit the style of this casing. portion of this project.
The Arts & Crafts style is similar to the
overall look and feel of Mission furniture,
as can be seen in this relatively simple oak
window casing.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A R T S & C R A F T S C A SI NG
1 2
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Follow the step-by-step process on pages 69 to 71 to To find the length of the head casing and apron,
install the stool and jamb extensions. Set a combination square measure the distance between the reveal lines on the side
to 3⁄16 or ¼" and mark a reveal line on the top and side jambs. jambs, and add twice the width of the side casings. Cut the
head casing and the apron to length. Install the head casing
flush with the top reveal line. Use a scrap piece of trim to line
up the head casing horizontally.
3 4 Back band
Measure and cut the side casings to length. Install them flush Measure, cut, and install the back band around the
with the reveal lines. Make sure the joints at the top and bottom perimeter of the window casings, mitering the joints at the
are tight. Measure the distance to the end of the stool from the corners. Continue the back band around the edge of the apron,
Proof 1
outer edge of the side casing. Install the apron tight to the bottom mitering the corners. Nail the back band in place with 4d
of the stool at the same dimension from the end of the stool. finish nails.
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BA SE M E N T W I N DOW T R I M
B
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asement windows bring much-needed sunlight trimmed out with oak casing. The casing is applied
into dark areas, but even in finished basements flush with the inside edges of the frame opening. If
they often get ignored on the trim front. This is you prefer to have a reveal edge around the interior
partly because most basement foundation walls are edge of the casing, you will need to add a solid
at least 8 inches thick, often a lot thicker. Add a hardwood strip to the edge of the frame so the plies
furred-out wall and the window starts to look more of the plywood are not visible.
like a tunnel with a pane of glass at the end. But
with some well-designed and well-executed trim
carpentry, you can turn the depth disadvantage into
a positive.
Tools & Materials ▸
A basement window opening may be finished Pencil Clamps
with drywall, but the easiest way to trim one is by Tape measure Spray-foam insulation
making extrawide custom jambs that extend from Tablesaw Finish-grade ¾" oak
the inside face of the window frame to the interior Drill with bits plywood
wall surface. Because of the extra width, plywood 2' level Composite or cedar
stock is a good choice for the custom jambs. Framing square wood shims
The project shown here is created with veneer- Utility knife 1¼, 2" finish nails
core plywood with oak veneer surface. The jamb Straightedge 15⁄8" drywall screws
members are fastened together into a nice square Miter saw Carpenter’s glue
frame using rabbet joints at the corner. The frame Router and router table Eye and ear protection
is scribed and installed as a single unit and thenProof 1
Because they are set into thick foundation walls, basement windows present a bit of a trimming challenge. But the thickness
of the foundation wall also lets you create a handy ledge that’s deep enough to hold potted plants or even sunning cats.
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■ HOW TO T R I M A BA SE M E N T W I N DOW
1 2
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Check to make sure the window frame and surrounding area Set your tablesaw to make a rip cut to the width arrived
are dry and free of rot, mold, or damage. At all four corners of at in step 1. If you don’t have a tablesaw, set up a circular saw
the basement window, measure from the inside edge of the and straightedge cutting guide to cut strips to this length. With
window frame to the wall surface. Add 1" to the longest of a fine-tooth panel-cutting blade, rip enough plywood strips to
these measurements. make the four jamb frame components.
3 4
3
⁄8 × ¾" rabbet
Miter gauge
Cross-cut the plywood strips to correct lengths. In Cut 3⁄8"-deep × ¾"-wide rabbets at each end of the head
our case, we designed the jamb frame to be the exact same jamb and the sill jamb. A router table is the best tool for this
outside dimensions as the window frame, since there was job, but you may use a tablesaw or handsaws and chisels.
some space between the jamb frame and the rough opening. Inspect the jambs first, and cut the rabbets in whichever face
is in better condition. To ensure uniformity, we ganged the two
Proof 1
jambs together (they’re the same length). It’s also a good idea
to include backer boards to prevent tearout. (continued)
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4 5
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Glue and clamp the frame parts together, making sure to Before the glue sets, carefully drill three perpendicular pilot
clamp near each end from both directions. Set a carpenter’s holes, countersunk, through the rabbeted workpieces and into
square inside the frame, and check it to make sure it’s square. the side jambs at each corner. Space the pilot holes evenly,
keeping the end ones at least ¾" in from the end. Drive a 15⁄8"
drywall screw into each pilot hole, taking care not to overdrive.
Double check each corner for square as you work, adjusting
the clamps if needed.
6 7
Let the glue dry for at least one hour (overnight is better). Taking care not to disturb the frame’s position (rest a
Then remove the clamps and set the frame in the window heavy tool on the sill to hold it in place if you wish), press a
opening. Adjust the frame so it is centered and level in the steel rule against the wall surface and mark trimming pointsProof 1
opening and the exterior-side edges fit flush against the at the point where the rule meets the jambs at each side of all
window frame. four frame corners, using a sharp pencil.
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8 9
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Scribe line
Remove the frame and clamp it on a flat worksurface. Use a straightedge to Replace the frame in the window
connect the scribe marks at the ends of each jamb frame side. Set the cutting depth opening in the same orientation as when
of your circular saw to just a small fraction over ¾". Clamp a straightedge guide to you scribed it, and install shims until it is
the frame so the saw blade will follow the cutting line, and trim each frame side in level and centered in the opening. Drive
succession. (The advantage to using a circular saw here is that any tearout from the a few finish nails (hand or pneumatic)
blade will be on the nonvisible faces of the frame). through the side jambs into the rough
frame. Also drive a few nails through the
sill jamb. Most trim carpenters do not
drive nails into the head jamb.
10 11
Insulate between the jamb frame and the rough frame Remove the masking tape, and clean up the mess from
with spray-in polyurethane foam. Look for minimal-expanding the foam (there is always some). Install case molding. We used
foam labeled “window and door,” and don’t spray in too much. picture-frame techniques to install fairly simple oak casing.
Let the foam dry for a half hour or so, and then trim off the
Proof 1
excess with a utility knife. Tip: Protect the wood surfaces near
the edges with wide strips of masking tape.
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BA SIC CA SI NG Tools & Materials ▸
Tape measure Miter saw
Drill Casing material
S
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
tock wood casings provide an attractive border Pencil Baseboard molding
around window and door openings while covering Nail set and corner blocks
the gaps between the wall surface and the window jamb. Hammer or (optional)
Install casings with a consistent reveal between the pneumatic nailer 4d and 6d finish nails
inside edges of the jambs and the edges of the casings. Level Wood putty
In order to fit casings properly, the jambs and Combination square Eye and ear protection
wall surfaces must be in the same plane. If one of Straightedge
them protrudes, the casing will not lie flush. To solve
this problem, you may need to shave the edges of the
jambs down with a block plane. Or you may need
to attach jamb extensions to the window or door to
match the plane of the wall. For small differences Drywall screws rely on the strength of untorn face
where a drywall surface is too high, you can sometimes paper to support the panel. If the paper around the
use a hammer to compress the drywall around the screws becomes torn, drive additional screws nearby
jambs to allow the casings to lie flush. where the paper is still intact.Proof 1
Simple case molding installed with mitered corners is a very common approach to trimming windows and doors. While it lacks
visual interest, it is easy to install and relatively inexpensive.
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L M I T E R E D C A SI NG ON W I N DOWS & DOOR S
1 2 3
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
On each jamb, mark a reveal line 3⁄16 Place a length of casing along one Make 45° miter cuts on the ends
to ¼" from the inside edge. The casings side jamb, flush with the reveal line. At of the moldings. Measure and cut the
will be installed flush with these lines. the top and bottom of the molding, mark other vertical molding piece, using the
the points where horizontal and vertical same method.
reveal lines meet. (When working with
doors, mark the molding at the top only.)
4 5 6
Drill pilot holes spaced every 12" to Measure the distance between the Locknail the corner joints by drilling
prevent splitting, and attach the vertical side casings and cut top and bottom pilot holes and driving 4d finish nails
casings with 4d finish nails driven casings to fit, with ends mitered at through each corner, as shown. Drive
through the casings and into the jambs. 45°. If the window or door unit is not all nail heads below the wood surface,
Drive 6d finish nails into the framing perfectly square, make test cuts on using a nail set, then fill the nail holes
members near the outside edge of scrap pieces to find the correct angle with wood putty.
Proof 1
the casings. of the joints. Drill pilot holes and attach
with 4d and 6d finish nails.
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BU I LT- U P C H A I R R A I L
D
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
esigning and installing a built-up chair rail can be
a very creative project that adds a considerable
amount of style to any room. For the project shown,
five smaller pieces of trim are combined with a 1 × 4
filler strip to create a bold, strong chair rail. If you are
considering a larger built-up chair rail, make sure the
existing base and crown moldings of the room will not
be overshadowed. A good rule of scale to remember is
that chair rail should always be smaller than the crown
or base.
If you plan to design your own molding, the
choices are just about endless. It is a good idea to
mimic the style of your existing moldings so that
the new chair rail will not look out of place. If the
room you are installing in currently has no chair rail,
consider new wall finishes as well. Two-tone painted
walls will emphasize the transition of a chair rail,
as will changing the finish from paint to wallpaper
or wainscot.
Tools & Materials ▸
Ladder 4' level or laser level
Pencil Drill with bits
Stud finder Painter’s tape A built-up chair rail is made of several styles of moldings,
so the design options are virtually unlimited. The profile shown
Tape measure Moldings
here features a strip of screen retainer on top of two pieces
Combination square Round metal file of profiled door stop. The stop molding is attached to a 1 × 4
Power miter saw Pneumatic fasteners filler that is then softened at the top and bottom edges with
Coping saw Hole filler cover molding.
Pneumatic finish nail Finish materials
gun and compressor Eye and ear protection
Before you begin installing the molding pieces of the built-
up chair rail, decide what type of return you will use. Returns are
finish details that occur in areas where different moldings meet
at perpendicular angles or quit in the middle of a wall. On some
built-up chair rail, you can take advantage of the depth of the
molding by butting the back moldings up to the obstructions but
running the cap moldings onto the surface.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A BU I LT- U P C H A I R R A I L
On the starting wall of your
1 installation, mark the desired height
of the first chair rail component you
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
will install (here, the 1 × 4 filler strip). At
this height, mark a level line around the
room. Locate all studs along the walls,
and mark their locations with painter’s
tape above the line.
Cut and install the 1 × 4 filler strip
2 so that the top edge of the strip follows
the level line around the room. Fasten
the strip with two 2½" finish nails driven
at every stud location. Butt the ends
of the filler strip together, keeping in
mind that the joints will be covered by
additional moldings.
Cut and install the upper piece of
3 cove molding around the room, nailing
it flush to the top edge of the 1 × 4
filler strip. Use scarf joints on long runs,
coped joints at inside corners, and
mitered joints on outside corners. Drive
one nail at every stud location into the
wall and one nail between each stud
down into the filler strip.
Proof 1
(continued)
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Install the lower piece of cove
4 molding flush with the bottom edge
of the filler strip. Use the same nailing
sequence as with the upper cove
molding. Cut scarf joints on long runs,
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
coped joints at inside corners, and
mitered joints on outside corners.
Measure, cut, and install the upper
5 piece of stop molding around the room,
driving two 1½" finish nails at each stud
location. Cut scarf joints, coped joints,
and mitered joints as necessary for
each piece. Stagger the seams of the
scarf joints on the stop molding so that
they do not line up with the scarf joints
of the cove moldings.
Install the lower piece of stop
6 molding around the room, keeping
the edge of the molding flush with
the bottom edge of the filler strip.
Fit each joint using the appropriate
joinery method. Drive two nails at each
stud location.Proof 1
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7 8
Screen molding will
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
conceal gap between
stop molding strips
Set a combination square to 13⁄8". Rest the body of the Install the screen retainer molding, as with the other
square on the top edge of the upper stop molding and use moldings, using the appropriate joints necessary. Fine-tune the
the blade of the square as a guide to mark a reference line cope cuts using a round metal file. Nail the molding in place.
around the room. This line represents the top edge of the Keep the top edge of the molding flush with the reference line
screen molding. from Step 7.
9 10
Set any nail heads with a nail set, Use a paintbrush to apply a final coat of paint to the moldings. Cover the finished
and fill all the nail holes with paintable floor with a drop cloth, and protect the lower portion of the wall from drips by
wood filler. Check for any gaps in the masking it off with plastic if necessary.
joinery, and fill them as well. Let the filler
dry, and sand it smooth with 180-grit
Proof 1
sandpaper. Wipe the moldings with a dry
cloth to remove any dust.
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BU I LT- U P C ROW N MOL DI NG
B
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
uilt-up crown molding is a multi-piece assembly
created by joining several trim boards, usually Built-up Options ▸
including at least one crown profile, on the wall and
Create a mock-up of the built-up molding assembly
the ceiling. Often referred to as cornice molding,
you’re planning to install. Fasten 12"-long pieces of each
these built-up combinations can be truly striking in
type together in the intended orientation. If you are
appearance, especially at and around outside corners.
undecided among multiple combinations, make a mock-
By using careful layout techniques and building
up of each so you can compare them.
simple mock-ups, this complex-looking process can
become relatively simple. In large part, this is because
the material that is installed both on the ceiling and
on the wall can function as a backer, giving the crown
molding that’s featured in the assembly a secure
surface area for nailing. Be creative and experiment
with different combinations of trim to come up with a
unique design of your own.
Tools & Materials ▸
Power miter saw 1½" finish (8d) or pneumatic Wood glue
Finish nailer (16-gauge) nails Utility knife
Tape measure #2.5 pencil Eye and ear protection
Built-up crown molding creates a bit of old-world charm in any setting. The three-piece interpretation seen here is made with
two pieces of baseboard and a piece of crown.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A BU I LT- U P C ROW N
1 2
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Remove any old crown molding in the cornice area. Use Use a mock-up of the built-up molding as a marking
a utility knife to cut through old paint and caulk between the gauge to establish a baseline for the bottom of the assembly
molding and the wall or ceiling. Then use a pry bar to work on the wall. Start in the corners and work your way around the
the crown molding loose in small sections. Be sure to brace room. This will allow you to see how the ceiling rises and falls
the end of the pry bar on the inside of the crown and pull so you know where to install the first piece.
downward. Do not pry upwards; this can damage the ceiling.
3 Tip ▸
To measure a wall when working alone, first
make a mark on the wall or ceiling exactly 10" out from
one corner. Then, press the tab against the wall at the
other end, measure to the marked line, and add 10" to
Make a reference line for the top of the built-up assembly, the measurement.
using the mock-up as a gauge.
Proof 1
(continued)
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4 5
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Baseboard
Profile down
Install the base (lowest) molding around the entire room Find the correct miter angles for installing the flat ceiling
first. The bottoms of the base pieces should be flush against trim. Cut two scraps of stock at 45°, and test how well they
the bottom line that was scribed using the mock-up as a fit together in the corner. Adjust the cuts as needed to form
gauge. Do not try to push the trim up against the ceiling; it a corner that has a neat miter with both sides flush against
must be flush with the base line. Any gaps at the top will be the wall.
hidden by subsequent trim pieces.
6 7
Install the second trim profile parts all around the Install the final piece, which is usually crown molding that
perimeter of the room. Typically, this will be flat moldings (with fits against the flat wall molding and the ceiling molding. It
or without an edge profile) installed flat against the ceiling and is best to use coped joints at the inside corners (see pageProof 1
mitered at the corners. 111). Sand, fill the nail holes, and finish the built-up cornice as
desired (if you have not prefinished all the parts).
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Cornice Variations ▸
Quarter round
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Stop molding
Crown molding 1×2
2×2
Band
Picture rail Crown molding
Use picture rail to enhance a cornice molding. Standard Install blocking to provide a nailing surface and added
height for picture rail is about 10 to 12" below the ceiling, bulk to a built-up cornice. In this simple arrangement, a
but you can place it at any level. For a simple variation of 2 × 2 block, or nailing strip, is screwed to the wall studs.
the project shown, use square-edged stock for the band A facing made from 1 × 2 finish lumber is nailed to the
(since the bottom edge will mostly be hidden), and add blocking and is trimmed along the ceiling with quarter-
picture rail just below the band. Be sure to leave enough round. The crown molding is nailed to the wall studs along
room for placing picture hooks. the bottom and to the nailer along the top.
Built-up cornice treatments can be as simple or complex
as you would like. This Arts & Crafts variation is made of flat
solid stock ripped down to specific dimensions. Two pieces of
1 × 2 stock are fastened together to form an L-shaped angle.
This highly detailed Victorian-style built-up cornice is The angle is then screwed to the wall at the stud locations.
made of several pieces of stock trim and solid stock ripped An additional piece of 1" wide stock is nailed in place so the
down to different widths. The right-angle component of this top edge is flush with the installed angle. This configuration
cornice may be screwed directly to the wall, to serve both creates a stepped cornice with a simpler appearance than the
a decorative function as well as serve as a nailer for the traditional sprung moldings. Notice that the L angle is nailed
other trim elements. The screw holes are covered when the together with a slight gap at the back edge. This is done to
Proof 1
crown molding is installed. compensate for irregularities in the corner joint.
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POLY M E R C ROW N
P
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
olymer moldings come in a variety of ornate,
single-piece styles that offer easy installation Tools & Materials ▸
and maintenance. The polystyrene or polyurethane
Tape measure Finish nails
material is as easy to cut as softwood, but unlike wood,
Drill with countersink- 150-grit sandpaper
the material won’t shrink and it can be repaired with
piloting bit Rag
vinyl spackling compound.
Power miter saw or hand Mineral spirits
You can buy polymer molding preprimed for miter box and fine- Polymer adhesive
painting, or you can stain it with a nonpenetrating tooth saw 2" drywall screws
heavy-body stain or gel. Most polymers come in Caulk gun Vinyl spackling compound
12-foot lengths, and some have corner blocks Putty knife Paintable latex caulk
that eliminate corner cuts. There are even flexible Crown molding Eye and ear protection
moldings for curved walls.
■ HOW TO I NSTA L L POLY M E R C ROW N MOL DI NG
1 2
Plan the layout of the molding pieces by measuring the Hold a section of molding against the wall and ceiling in the
walls of the room and making light pencil marks at the joint finished position. Make light pencil marks on the wall every 12"
locations. For each piece that starts or ends at a corner, add along the bottom edge of the molding. Remove the molding,
12 to 24" to compensate for waste. If possible, avoid pieces and tack a finish nail at each mark. The nails will hold the
shorter than 36" because short pieces are more difficult to fit. molding in place while the adhesive dries. If the wall surface is
plaster, drill pilot holes for the nails.
To make the miter cuts for the first
corner, position the molding faceup in
a miter box. Set the ceiling side of the
3
molding against the horizontal table
of the miter box, and set the wall side
against the vertical back fence. Make the
cut at 45°.Proof 1
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4 5 6
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Check the uncut ends of each Lightly sand the backs of the Set the molding in place with the
molding piece before installing it. Make molding that will contact the wall and mitered end tight to the corner and
sure mating pieces will butt together ceiling, using 150-grit sandpaper. Slightly the bottom edge resting on the nails.
squarely in a tight joint. Cut all square dampen a rag with mineral spirits, and Press along the molding edges to
ends at 90°, using a miter saw or hand wipe away the dust. Run a small bead create a good bond. At each end of the
miter box. of polymer adhesive (recommended piece, drive 2" drywall screws through
or supplied by the manufacturer) along countersunk pilot holes through the
both sanded edges. flats and into the ceiling and wall.
7 8
Cut, sand, and glue the next piece of molding. Apply a Carefully remove the finish nails and fill the nail holes with
bead of adhesive to the end where the installed molding will vinyl spackling compound. Fill the screw holes in the molding
meet the new piece. Install the new piece, and secure the ends and any gaps in the joints with paintable latex caulk or filler,
Proof 1
with screws, making sure the ends are joined properly. Install and wipe away excess caulk with a damp cloth or a wet finger.
the remaining molding pieces, and let the adhesive dry. Smooth the caulk over the holes so it’s flush with the surface.
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WA L L F R A M E MOL DI NG S
A
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
dding wall frame moldings is a traditional to match the dimensions of architectural details in the
decorative technique used to highlight special room, such as windows or a fireplace.
features of a room, divide large walls into smaller Install the molding with small finish nails
sections, or simply add interest to plain surfaces. You driven at each wall stud location and at the ends
can paint the molding the same color as the walls or of the pieces. Use nails long enough to penetrate
use a contrasting color. For even greater contrast, paint the studs by ¾ inch. If there aren’t studs where
or wallcover the areas within the frames. you need them, secure the molding with dabs of
Decorative wood moldings with curved contours construction adhesive.
work best for wall frames. Chair rail, picture rail, base
shoe, cove, quarter-round, and other suitable molding
types in several wood species are readily available at
home centers and lumberyards.
To determine the sizes and locations of the
frames, cut strips of paper to the width of the molding
and tape them to the wall. You may want the frames
Tools & Materials ▸
Level Paper strips
Framing square Tape
Level Wood finishing
Miter box and backsaw materials
Drill and bits Construction adhesive
Hammer and Paintable latex caulk
finishing nails or wood putty
Nail set Eye and ear protection
Cut the molding pieces to length, using a miter box
and a backsaw (or power miter saw) to cut the ends at 45°.
The top and bottom pieces should be the same length, as Wall frame moldings use ordinary trim pieces to createProof 1
should the side pieces. Test-fit the pieces, and make any frames with mitered corners that give the illusion of frame-
necessary adjustments. and-panel construction.
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L WA L L F R A M E MOL DI NG S
1 2
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Cut paper strips to the width of the molding, and tape Paint or stain the moldings as desired. Position the top
them to the wall. Use a framing square and level to make sure molding piece on the placement marks, and tack it in place
the frame is level and the strips are square to one another. with two finish nails. If necessary, drill pilot holes for the nails to
Mark the outer corners of the frame with light pencil lines. prevent splitting.
3 4
Tack the side moldings in place, using the framing square Drive the nails slightly below the surface, using a nail set.
to make sure they are square to the top piece. Tack up the Fill the nail holes (and corner joints, if necessary) with wood
Proof 1
bottom piece. Adjust the frame, if necessary, so that all of the putty. Touch up the patched areas with paint or stain.
joints fit tightly, and then completely fasten the pieces.
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WA I NSCOT F R A M E S
F
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
rame-and-panel wainscot adds depth, character, We primed all of the wainscot parts prior to
and a sense of old-world charm to any room. installing them and then painted the wainscot
Classic wainscot was built with grooved or rabbeted (including the wall sections within the wainscot panel
rails and stiles that captured a floating hardwood frames) a contrasting color from the wall above the
panel. In the project shown here, the classic wainscot cap.
appearance is mimicked, but the difficulties of
machining precise parts and commanding craftsman-
level joinery are eliminated. Paint-grade materials
(mostly MDF) are used in the project shown; however,
Tools & Materials ▸
you can also build the project with solid hardwoods Laser level nail gun with
and finish-grade plywood if you prefer a clear- Pencil compressor
coat finish. Tape measure Caulking gun
Installing wainscot frames that look like frame- Circular saw or ¾"-thick MDF
and-panel wainscot can be done piece by piece, but tablesaw sheet stock
it is often easier to assemble the main frame parts in Straightedge guide 3" drywall screws
your shop. Not only does working in the shop allow Power miter saw 11⁄16" cove molding
you to join the frame parts together (we use pocket Drill with bits ½ × ¾" base shoe
screws driven in the backs of the rails and stiles); it Carpenter’s square 9
⁄16 × 11⁄8" cap molding
generally results in a more professional look. Pocket hole jig with (10' per panel)
Once the main frames are assembled, they can be screws Panel adhesive
attached to the wall at stud locations. If you prefer to Pry bar Paint and primer
site-build the wainscot piece by piece, you may need Hammer Eye and ear protection
to replace the wallcovering material with plywood to Pneumatic finish
create nailing surfaces for the individual pieces.
Panel Profiled
profile ¾ × 2" cap
¾" cove
32"
¾ × 3½"
20"
¾ × 7¼"
Base
shoe Overall height: 44"Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L WA I NS COT F R A M E S
1
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Use a laser level and a pencil to mark the height of the
wainscot installation directly onto all walls in the project area.
Also mark the height of the top rail (¾" below the overall
height) since the cap rail will be installed after the rest of the
wainscot is installed. Mark stud locations, using an electronic
stud finder.
2
Plot out the wainscot layout on paper, and then test the
layout by drawing lines on the wall to make sure you’re happy
with the design. Try to use a panel width that can be divided
evenly into all project wall lengths. In some cases, you may need
to make the panel widths slightly different from wall to wall, but
make sure to maintain a consistent width within each wall’s run.
3 4
Based on your plan, rip a sheet of MDF into strips to make all Cut top rails, base rails, and stiles (but not cap rails) to
of the wainscot parts except the trim moldings. In our case, that length, and dry-assemble the parts into ladder frames based
included the cap rail (2" wide), the top rail and stiles (3½" wide), on your layout. Plan the layouts so wall sections longer than 8'
and the base rail (7¼" wide). Note: These are standard lumber are cut with scarf joints in the rails meeting at a stud location.
Proof 1
dimensions. You can use 1 × 4 and 1 × 4 dimensional lumber Dry-assemble the pieces on a flat worksurface.
for the rails and stiles. Use 1 × 2 or rip stock for the cap rail. (continued)
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WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Assemble the frames using glue and pocket screws or Mount a ¾" roundover bit in your router or router table,
biscuits. Clamp the parts together first, and check with a and shape a bullnose profile on the front edge of your cap
carpenter’s square to make sure the stiles are perpendicular to rail stock.
both rails.
7 8
Prime all parts on both sides, including the milled moldings Position the frames against the wall, and shim
and uncut cap rail stock. underneath the bottom rails as necessary to bring them flush
with the top rail marks on the wall (¾" below the overall height
lines). Attach the wainscot sections by driving 3" drywall
screws, countersunk, through the top rail and the bottom railProof 1
at each stud location. If you are using scarf joints, be sure to
install the open half first.
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WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Cut the cap rail to length, and attach it to the top rail Install cove molding in the crotch where the cap rail and top
with panel adhesive and finish nails. Drive a 3" drywall screw rails meet, using glue and a brad nailer. Then nail base shoe
through the cap rail and into the wall toenails style at each to conceal any gaps between the bottoms, rails, and the floor.
location. Be sure to carefully drill pilot holes and countersink Miter all corners.
holes for each screw. Miter-cut the cap rails at the corners.
11 12
Cut mitered frames to fit around the perimeter of each Mask the wall above the cap rail, and then prime and
Proof 1
panel frame created by the rails and stiles. Use cap molding. paint the wainscot frames. Generally, a lighter, contrasting color
than the wall color above is most effective visually.
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COF F E R E D C E I L I NG S
I
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
nstalling a coffered ceiling is one of the most lavish but in fact simple, lightweight three-sided hollow
treatments you can perform on a ceiling. It adds both boxes are all you need. Once the boxes are installed
beauty and character and is a great way to cultivate to the ceiling, planks of MDF are used to complete
a more formal atmosphere in a room. Coffered the box. When affixing these to the ceiling, plenty of
ceilings, sometimes referred to as box beams, consist good quality construction adhesive is used, along with
of recessed panels or individual cells of intersecting nailing securely into joists wherever possible.
beams that are trimmed with moldings.
These individual cells can either be squares or
rectangles: the precise shape is dictated by the layout Tools & Materials ▸
of the room they are being installed in. The types of
moldings used, the depth of the individual cells, and ¾" MDF panels Drill
the reveals can all change the look of the coffer to 1 × 6 pine 16g (or 8d) finish nails
make it resemble a particular style, such as Craftsman, 5" base molding Carpenters square
Federal, or Victorian. Creating a coffer depth too big 45⁄8" crown molding Glue/construction
in a smaller room can be overwhelming. Taller ceilings Power miter saw adhesive
(above 9 feet) should have deeper cells of around 5 to Tape measure Caulk
8 inches, while a traditional 8- to 9-foot ceiling would #2.5 pencil Finish materials
have a depth anywhere from 2 to 5 inches. Finish nailer Eye and ear protection
The method that is shown in this chapter will Deck screws
create the illusion that heavy solid beams were used,Proof 1
The rich architectural appeal of a coffered ceiling can be achieved with some strips of MDF and a little crown molding.
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Alternate Method: Beams ▸
Joist
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
2×6
backer
board Drywall
Cove
molding ¾ × ¾" stop
1 × 6 pine
½" reveal 1×4
pine
Exposed beams lend a feeling of strength and structure A cross section view of the exposed beams shown
to a room, even if they’re really just hollow shells like the being installed here reveals that they are hollow inside and
beams seen here. Because they can be attached directly actually quite simple in structure. You can install beams
to the ceiling surface, installing decorative beams is a in any direction, but perpendicular to the ceiling joists (as
relatively easy trim carpentry project (as long as you’re shown above) is the easier orientation to work with.
comfortable working at heights).
■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A COF F E R E D C E I L I NG
1 2
Take measurements and plan your layout. Divide the Mark the layout lines for the ceiling and snap chalk lines
ceiling into square or rectangular sections that are proportional to establish the grid you’ll be basing your layout on.
to the overall size. The general idea is to install series of plus-
shape nailers to establish each point of intersection, and then
Proof 1
connect the nailers with strips of MDF.
(continued)
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WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Construct the three-sided boxes that will create the nailer Hang the nailer union assemblies from the ceiling
unions that define each coffered section. The boxes are made according to your layout plans. Use deck screws driven up
from 1 × 6 pine. through the boxes and into ceiling joists where possible. If no
joists are available in the installation area, use toggle bolts.
5 6
Hang T-shaped nailer union assemblies next to the walls Cut strips of MDF to make the beam covers. Allow an
according to your installation plan. extra 11⁄2" of width so the beam covers will conceal the bottomProof 1 2 T
edges of the beam sides after they are installed. Also rip the
stock for the beam sides (this should be equal in width to the
depth of the nailer boxes).
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WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Attach the MDF strips to the bottoms of the nailers Measure the inside dimensions of each coffer so you can
and then to the sides, using panel adhesive and 16-gauge make a crown molding frame that is preassembled on the
pneumatic finish nails. Then install the beam side strips, ground and then simply lifted up into place and secured.
making adjustments as needed to ensure that the surfaces of
the sides are flush with the edges of the beam covers.
9 10
Cut crown molding and assemble it into a square frame Lift the finished crown molding frames up into the
on the ground. Short each dimension by about 1⁄32" to make coffer opening and secure with pneumatic finish nails. Caulk
sure the frame will fit inside. You’ll have the best chance for all gaps, fill nail holes, and then paint and prime. Add ceiling
success if you measure and build each frame individually. medallion and other ornamental millwork if you wish, but
Proof 1
use discretion.
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C E I L I NG M E DA L L IONS
A
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
ceiling medallion is an elegant style accent that
can highlight a light fixture or establish the visual Tools & Materials ▸
focal point of a room all on its own. Most medallions
today are made of polyurethane and are available at Screwdriver 150-grit sandpaper
home centers off the shelf in various styles and sizes. Adjustable wrench Polyurethane adhesive
Specialty restoration dealers carry extensive lines of Pencil Threaded nipple
medallions as well. Drill with bits Drywall screws
In the project shown, a medallion is installed over and circle cutter Paintable latex caulk
a light fixture. Depending on the style of medallion Caulk gun Eye and ear protection
you choose, a hole may need to be cut in the center Medallion
to allow access to the electrical mechanicals in the
ceiling. If you are installing the medallion over a light
fixture, turn off the power at the main service panel
before you begin.
Ceiling medallions are classic trim accessories, and most sold today are designed to be installed in conjunction with a ceiling
light fixture. Some medallions come as solid discs (carved wood, cast plaster, or more commonly, urethane) and others are two-Proof 1
piece assemblies that can be slipped between the light and the ceiling and snapped together.
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A C E I L I NG M E DA L L ION
1 2 3
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Turn the power off at the main Compensate for the added thickness Cut a hole in the center of the
service panel. Remove the cover plate of the medallion by adding a longer medallion using a circle cutter and a
of the light fixture. Disconnect the nipple to the center of the electrical drill. The hole should be smaller than
fixture wires, taking note of the color box. If a nipple is not used, purchase the cover plate, but large enough to
of the wires of each connection. If longer screws to reattach the cover access the screw holes on the mounting
necessary, unscrew the supporting plate to the mounting strap once the strap. Lightly sand the back of the
nipple in the center of the electrical box medallion is installed. medallion with 150-grit sandpaper.
and set the fixture aside.
4 5
Position the medallion on the ceiling centered over the Drill countersunk pilot holes in inconspicuous areas of the
electrical box. Trace the outline with a pencil. Apply adhesive medallion and drive drywall screws through the holes to hold
to the back of the medallion, staying 1" away from the outer it in place until the adhesive dries. Fill the holes with paintable
edge. Align the medallion with the pencil line and press it to latex caulk, smoothing the holes with a wet finger. Paint the
the ceiling. medallion as desired, and reattach the light when the paint is
Proof 1
completely dry.
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JOI N T L E S S R A I L -A N D - ST I L E WA I NSCOT
S
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
ome forces of nature that affect carpentry cannot a story pole stick. This can be transferred to the 4 × 8
be avoided, but they can be controlled. One is the sheet so layouts can be consistent. After cutting out
natural movement of wood that occurs from changes in the center panel, the remaining material becomes the
temperature and humidity. Many a trim job that is perfect rails and stiles. The panel itself is squared up and run
when it is installed in the summer suffers from opened through a router bit, creating the raised panel. Bolection
miters and other signs of shrinkage when the humidity molding is then cut and used to trim out each panel.
drops during the fall and winter heating seasons.
By creating a layout and cutting out panels from a
4 × 8-foot sheet of MDF, you can control the number
Tools & Materials ▸
of joints and greatly reduce the affects of wood Circular saw Clamps
movement. MDF is a manmade material composed Cutting guide Jigsaw
of sawdust and resins and formed without a grain Tape measure MDF
pattern under extremely high pressure, which makes it Laser level 8d nails
one of the most dimensionally stable wood products. Straightedge Finishing materials
Although all materials will be affected somewhat by Router (optional) Eye and ear protection
humidity changes, MDF is affected the least. Sander (detail or Work gloves
After careful planning and measuring, the design random orbit)
and layout of the room can be transferred directly toProof 1
These wainscot frames are cut from full sheets of MDF, so they require virtually no joinery.
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L JOI N T L E S S WA I NS COT
1 2
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Plan your layout. Measure the length of each wainscot Mark a layout line on the wall at the planned wainscot
run and calculate a plan that minimizes the number of height. Generally, 36" to 42" is the typical height range,
vertical joints. The goal is to have all of the panel inserts the although on older homes, full-height or nearly full-wall height
same width. Do not have panels meet in vertical joints in wainscot coverage was not uncommon. Use a laser level to
the stile areas. Butt the “rails” against a full-width stile in the mark the height if you have access to one.
adjoining panel.
3 4
Lay out the cutting lines on your MDF panels, following Set up for the panel cutouts. To get the straightest possible
your plan. For uniform results, create and use a layout stick to line when removing the panel from the frame material, use a
mark the locations of the margins and panel widths. circular saw and a straightedge cutting guide. Clamp the guide
to the panel so the saw foot setback has the blade falling just
inside the layout line. Set the saw cutting depth to about 1⁄8"
Proof 1
deeper than the thickness of the stock (7⁄8" for ¾" MDF panels).
(continued)
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5 6
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Make a plunge cut. Position the saw so the blade will Set up for the panel cutouts following the straightedge
come down well within the start of the waste area. Press the guide. Be careful, but don’t proceed too slowly or the blade
foot firmly against the straightedge guide. Hold the saw so the may cause some burning. Stop cutting an inch or so before the
blade is slightly above the worksurface. Turn on the saw. Once blade reaches the cutting line. Make all internal plunge cuts on
the blade is rotating at full speed, carefully lower the all frame sections.
saw onto the workpiece, holding onto the handle with a firm
grip. This is called a plunge cut. Without pressing down too
hard and forcing the blade, let the blade cut into and through
the workpiece.
7 8
Finish the cutouts with a jigsaw. Make sure the workpiece Sand the corner smooth with a detail sander or a random
and the waste are well supported from below, and use a jigsaw orbit sander. Hand sanding is also an option.
to compete the cutouts at the corners.Proof 1
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9
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Ogee bit with bead
Option: Cut a decorative edge profile on the frame cutouts Prime and paint the frames. Use a small brush to paint the
using a router and a piloted profiling bit, such as the ogee bit profiled areas and use a small roller sleeve to coat the rail and
seen here (inset). Exercise some care, particularly around the stile areas. Also paint the cap molding and base trim with a
corners. If you are planning to shape and install insert panels, small paint roller.
you generally should not profile the frame, too.
10 11
Prepare the walls. You have many design options here. The Install the frame with panel adhesive and pneumatic nails or
simplest is to paint the wall the same color as the wainscot 8d finish nails driven at stud locations. Cut biscuit slots at the
frames. Or, you can paint it a contrasting color. By using a stile-and-rail joints and use biscuits to assist in the alignment.
paintable, embossed wallpaper you can add some interesting Add base and cap molding as desired.
texture. Or you can apply natural wood paneling, mirrored
glass panels—there is virtually no limit to the possibilities.
Proof 1
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RAISED-PANEL WAINSCOT Raised-Panel Bits ▸
Raised-panel router bits generally require a router table
with a powerful ½"-collet router or a shaper to run them
B
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
y definition, wainscot is a treatment to the lower successfully. The bit cuts the edge profile into the panel
half of a wall. Designs can range from simple inserts. If you are making traditional raised-panel frames,
architecturally applied moldings directly to the drywall you’ll also need a sticking bit set to cut the edge profiles
to elaborate rail and style construction with raised-panel for the frame rails and stiles.
centers. Aside from the traditional look of raised-paneled
wainscot, these raised panels can be installed on any
part of a wall; the lower third, the full wall, or the ceiling.
Tools & Materials ▸
Circular saw Panel adhesive
Framing square High-tack wood trim glue
Tape measure Finishing materials
Clamps Raised-panel router bit
Pneumatic nailer Recessed router
16-gauge or 18-gauge Eye and ear protection
pneumatic nailsProof 1
Genuine raised-panel wainscot has depth and substance that can be mimicked with trim moldings, but never duplicated.
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L R A I SE D - PA N E L WA I NS COT
1 2
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Plan your layout and make a mock-up of the wall treatment, Cut the panel inserts, making sure they are square. If you
including base molding, shoe molding (if you’ll use it), have access to a tablesaw or a panel-cutting saw, use it.
lower rail, panel insert, upper rail, bolection moldings and If the panel has a finish-grade side, make sure the blade is
cap moldings. cutting down into the finished side to limit any tearout to the
back surface. Allow for ¼" clearance between the panels and
the frames.
3
Cut the panel edge profiles. After all the raised panels are cut to the proper size, install a panel cutting bit in your router table
and cut the edge profiles. One great way to accomplish this is to attach a series of thin auxiliary fences to your router table fence.
After making one pass on each side of all the panels, remove one of the sacrificial pieces of MDF to expose more of the panel
bit and make another pass. This process is repeated until the full profile has been cut. When complete, you will have a perfectly
Proof 1
profiled raised panel.
(continued)
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4 5
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Make and install frames for the panels. Here, ¾"-thick Cut ¼"-wide spacers from thin stock—about the same
MDF is ripped into 4"-wide strips and formed into frames that thickness as the edges of the panel inserts. Tack the spacers
are mounted on the room walls. See pages 92 to 95 for more around the edges of the panel openings in the frame—use
information on making and installing wainscot frames. at least two spacers at each edge. You can use double-sided
tape to hold the spacers, but hot glue from a hot-glue gun is a
better choice.
6 7
Insert raised panels into openings so the panels fit inside Fasten the raised panels in the frame openings. Use small
the spacers. Test the fit and make any adjustments as needed. (18-gauge) pneumatic brads to secure the panels, preferably
driven close enough to the edges that the bolection molding
will cover the nailheads. Option: Apply panel adhesive to the
back of the panel (inset) before tacking it in place. The adhesive
will greatly improve the holding power of the bond, but it also
complicates removal of the panels if you need to make anProof 1
adjustment at some point.
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8 9
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Remove the panel spacers and the top and sides of the Install base molding according to your trim plan and mock
opening, prying them loose with a flat screwdriver. Leave the up. Miter or cope the molding at inside corners and miter it
bottom spacers in place as an auxiliary support for the panel, at outside corners. Use panel adhesive and pneumatic nails
which is fairly heavy. (16-gauge) or 21⁄2"-finish nails to secure the moldings, driving
nails at stud locations where possible. Attach base shoe
molding if you plan to use it, making sure to fasten it to the
base molding and not to the floor.
10 11
Miter-cut the corners and fasten bolection molding to Install the cap molding to cover the tops of the frames,
cover the gaps between the raised panels and the frames. using finish nails or pneumatic nails. Fill nail holes with putty
Use high-tack wood trim glue and pneumatic brad nails throughout the project and prepare for finishing by sanding
to attach the bolection molding. Bolection molding (inset) lightly and by filling the gap between the cap molding and the
resembles cap molding but is intended to cover gaps and wall with a thin bead of paintable caulk. Apply your finish of
create a shadow line because it stands out from the surfaces choice. We used primer and paint, since MDF is not suited for
Proof 1
to which it is attached. clear finishing.
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C ROW N MOL DI NG
S
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
imply put, crown molding is angled trim that inside corners may appear to save time and produce
bridges the joint between the ceiling and the wall. adequate results, after a few changing seasons the joints
In order to cover this joint effectively, crown moldings will open up and be even more difficult to conceal.
are “sprung.” This means that the top and bottom Installing crown molding in a brand-new, perfectly
edges of the molding have been beveled, so when the square room is one thing, but what happens when the
molding is tilted away from the wall at an angle, the walls and ceilings don’t meet at perfect right angles?
tops and bottoms are flush on the wall and ceiling In most houses that have been around for more than a
surfaces. Some crown moldings have a 45-degree angle couple of seasons, walls have bulges caused by warped
at both the top and the bottom edges; another common studs or improper stud placement that’s causing the
style (“38-degree crown”) has a 38-degree angle on one drywall to push out into the room. Ceilings have issues
edge and a 52-degree angle on the other edge. caused by warped joists or drywall that has loosened
Installing crown molding can be a challenging and or pulled away from the ceiling joists. Corners may be
sometimes confusing process. Joints may be difficult best finished with extra-thick layers of joint compound
for you to visualize before cutting, and wall and that has been applied a bit heavily, causing an outside
ceiling irregularities can be hard to overcome. If you corner piece to sit further away from the corner
have not worked on crown molding joints before, it is bead. These are just a few of the issues that can work
recommended that your first attempt be made with against you and cause even an experienced carpenter
paint-grade materials. Stain-grade crown is commonly to become frustrated.
made of solid hardwood stock, which makes for
expensive cutting errors and difficulty concealing
irregularities in joints.
Inside corner joints of crown molding should
Tools & Materials ▸
be cope-cut, not mitered, except in the case of very Hammer Scrap of wood
intricate profile crown that is virtually impossible to Utility knife Eye protection
cope (and must therefore be mitered). While mitering
Basic crown molding softens the transitions between walls and ceilings. If it is made from quality hardwood, crown molding can
be quite beautiful when installed and finished with a clear top coat. But historically, it is most often painted, either the same
color as the ceiling (your eye tends to see it as a ceiling molding, not a wall molding) or with highly elaborate painted-and-Proof 1
carved details.
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WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
6
Butted to wall
Mitered joint
1
5
Coped joint
2
3
4
Plan the order of the installation to minimize the number of difficult joints on each piece, and use the longest pieces for the
most visible sections of wall. Notice that the left end of first piece is cope-cut rather than butted into the wall. Cope-cutting the
first end eliminates the need to cope-cut both ends of the final piece and places the cuts in the same direction. This simplifies
your installation, making the method to cut each piece similar.
■ HOW TO I NSTA L L BA SIC C ROW N MOL DI NG
1 2
Cut a piece of crown molding about 1' long with square Place the first piece of molding upside down and sprung
ends. Temporarily install the piece in the corner of the last against the fence of the miter saw. Mark a reference line on
installation wall with two screws driven into the blocking. This the fence for placement of future moldings, and cut the first
piece serves as a template for the first cope cut on the first coped end with an inside miter cut to reveal the profile of
Proof 1
piece of molding. the piece.
(continued)
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3 4
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Temporary scrap
Cope-cut the end of the first piece with a coping saw. Carefully Measure, cut to length, and install the first piece of crown
cut along the profile, angling the saw as you cut to back- molding, leaving the end near the temporary scrap loose for
bevel the cope. Test-fit the coped cut against the temporary final fitting of the last piece. Nail the molding at the top and
scrap from step 1. Fine-tune the cut with files and fine-grit bottom of each stud location.
sandpaper.
5 6
Test pieces
Cut two test pieces to check the fit of outside corners. Start Position the actual stock so a cut end is flush against the wall
with each molding cut at 45°, adjusting the angles larger or at one end and, at the other end, mark the outside corner
smaller until the joints are tight. Make sure the test moldings on the back edge of the molding. Miter-cut the piece at the
are properly aligned and are flush with the ceiling and walls. mark, according to the angles you noted on the test pieces.
Make a note of your saw settings once the joint fits tightly.Proof 1
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7 8
Temporary spacer removed
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Measure and cut the third piece with an outside corner miter To fit the final piece, cope the end and cut it to length.
to match the angle of your test pieces. Cut the other end Remove the temporary scrap piece from step 3, and slide
squarely, butting it into the corner. Install the piece with nails the last molding into position. Nail the last piece at the
driven at stud locations. Install the subsequent pieces of stud locations when the joints fit well, and finish nailing the
crown molding, coping the front end and butting the other as first piece.
you work around the room.
9 10
Fill all nail holes. Use spackling compound if painting; wait Lightly sand the filled nail holes and joint gaps with fine
until the finish is applied, and fill with tinted putty for clear sandpaper. Sand the nail hole flush with the surface of the
finishes. Use a putty knife to force spackling compound or moldings, and apply a final coat of paint to the entire project.
tinted wood putty into loose joints, and caulk gaps 1⁄8" or
smaller between the molding and the wall or ceiling with
flexible, paintable, latex caulk.
Proof 1
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DECOR AT I V E DOOR H E A DE R
A
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
dding a decorative head casing to a door is a simple lattice molding. Installing a decorative header of this
way to dress up your existing trim. Although head style on an interior door may require the installation
treatments are more common over doors, this project of additional blocking. For installation over an exterior
will work for window trim as well. Designing your own door or a window, nail the pieces in place directly to
decorative molding can be creative and fun, but try not the load-bearing framing in the wall above the opening.
to overwhelm the room with an elaborate piece, or it
may detract from the décor.
Standard stock door casings have an outer-edge
thickness of approximately 11⁄16 inch. Build your custom
Tools & Materials ▸
header around this thickness. Use it to create a reveal Pencil 2½" finish nails
line to a thinner piece of trim, or build out from the Tape measure Moldings
edge for a bolder, more substantial appearance. In Power miter saw Wood glue
the project shown, a bed molding, or smaller piece of Finish nail gun Finish materials
crown molding, is used to build out the header away Brad nail gun Eye and ear protection
from the wall. The ends of the molding are returned to 1 and 5⁄8" brad nails
the wall, and the entire piece is capped with a piece of
Replacing plain head casing on a door
or window with a decorative built-up
version is a quick and easy way to add
some sophistication to any ordinary
feature of your home.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A DECOR AT I V E DOOR H E A DE R
1 2
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Measure the width of your door casing and rough-cut a piece of bed or crown With the molding upside down and
molding 6" longer. Use the casing width dimension to lay out cut marks on the bottom sprung against the fence, cut a 45°
edge of the molding. Start the marks 2" from the end to allow space for cutting the outside corner miter angle at each end,
mitered ends. on the casing reference marks from
step 1.
3 4 5
Cut mitered returns for the molding Nail the new header in place with Cut lattice molding 1" longer than the
using the leftover piece. Set the angle 21⁄2" finish nails driven at an angle length of the bed molding and nail it in
of the power miter saw to the opposing through the bed molding and into the place with 5⁄8" brad nails so that it has
45° angle and cut the returns with the framing members of the wall. a uniform overhang of ½". Fill all nail
molding upside down and sprung against holes with spackle and sand them with
the fence. Dry-fit the pieces, recutting fine-grit sandpaper. Apply the final coat
them if necessary. Apply glue to the of finish.
return pieces and nail them to the ends
Proof 1
of the head molding with 1" brad nails.
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BU I LT- U P BA SE MOL DI NG
B
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
uilt-up base molding is made up of several strips plywood molding is less durable than solid wood and is
of wood (usually three) that are combined for only available in 8- and 10-foot lengths, making joints
a particular effect. It is installed in two common more frequent.
scenarios: (1) to match existing trim in other rooms of
a house or (2) to match a stock one-piece molding that
is not available. Tools & Materials ▸
Installing a built-up base molding is no more
difficult than a standard one-piece molding, because Pneumatic finish Tape measure
the same installation techniques are used. However, nail gun Sandpaper
built-up base molding offers a few advantages over Air compressor Power sander
standard stock moldings. Wavy floors and walls are Air hose ¾" finish-grade oak
easier to conceal, and the height of the molding is Miter saw plywood
completely up to you, making heat registers and other Hammer Base shoe molding
obstructions easier to deal with. Nail set Cap molding
In this project, the base molding is made of high- Tablesaw or 1¼" brad nails
grade plywood rather than solid stock lumber. straightedge guide 2" finish nails,
Plywood is more economical and dimensionally stable and circular saw wood putty
than solid lumber and can be built up to any depth, Pencil Eye and ear protection
as well as cut down to any height. Keep in mind that
Built-up base trim is made by combining baseboard, base shoe, and another molding type, typically cap molding.Proof 1
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WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Cap molding
Baseboard
Wall
(plywood)
Base shoe
Floor
Cut the plywood panel into 6" strips with a tablesaw or a
straightedge guide and a circular saw. Lightly sand the strips,
removing any splinters left from the saw. Then apply the finish
of your choice to the moldings and the plywood strips.
Base Trim Spacers ▸
Baseboard can be built up on the back with spacer
Stud location
strips so it will project farther out from the wall.
This can allow you to match existing casings or to
Open bevel
for scarf create the impression of a thicker molding. However,
joint the cap rail needs to be thick enough to cover the
plywood edge completely or the core of the panel
may be visible.
Back-cut
bevel for
scarf joint
Install the plywood strips with 2" finish nails driven at stud
locations. Use scarf joints on continuous runs, driving pairs of
fasteners into the joints. Cut and install moldings so that all
scarf joints fall at stud locations.
Proof 1
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■ I NSTA L L I NG BU I LT- U P BA SE MOL DI NG
Nail and glue 45°
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
outside miter joint
before attaching
baseboard
Test-fit inside corner butt joints before cutting a Miter outside corners squarely at 45°. Use wood glue and
workpiece. If the walls are not square or straight, angle 11⁄4" brad nails to pull the mitered pieces tight, and then nail
or bevel the end cut a few degrees to fit the profile of the the base to the wall at stud locations with 2" finish nails. Small
adjoining piece. The cap molding will cover any gaps at the top gaps at the bottom or top of the base molding will be covered
of the joint. See illustration, page 117. with cap or base shoe.
Attach Attach cap
baseboard to to baseboard
wall studs with 18-ga.,
with 2" 5
⁄ 8" brads
finish nails
Attach
base shoe
to subfloor
with 1 1⁄ 2"
finish nails
Use a brad nailer with 18-gauge, 5⁄8" brads to install the Built-up baseboard requires more attention to the nailing
cap and base shoe moldings along the edges of the plywood schedule than simple one-piece baseboards. The most
base. Fit scarf joints on longer lengths, coped joints on inside important consideration (other than making sure your nails are
corners, and miter joints on outside corners. Stagger the all driven into studs or other solid wood), is that the base shoe
seams so that they do not line up with the base molding must be attached to the floor, while the baseboard is attached
seams. Set any protruding nails with a nail set and fill all nail to the wall. This way, as the gap between the wall and
holes with putty. floor changes, the parts of the built-up molding can changeProof 1
with them.
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■ OP T IONS W I T H H E AT R E G I ST E R S
Installing base molding around heat registers and Here are a few methods that can be employed for
cold-air returns can sometimes be challenging. Register trimming around these obstructions.
thickness and height vary, complicating installation.
WA LL, CEILING & T RIM PROJECTS
Adjust the height of your baseboard
to completely surround the heat
register opening. Then cut a pocket out
of the base for the heat register to slide
into. Install the base shoe and cap trim
molding continuously across the edges
of the baseboard.
Install a taller backer block to
encompass larger register openings.
Cut a hole the same size as the duct
opening in the backer block and cover
the edges of the plywood with cap
rail, mitering the rail at the corners.
Butt the base molding into the sides of
the register. Cut and install returns for
the base shoe flush with the ends of
the register.
Install a wooden heat register for
a less noticeable appearance. Wooden
registers can be finished to match your
trim and are available through most
hardwood floor retailers. Butt the base
molding into the ends of the register
cover and bevel the front edges of the
base shoe to match the depth of the
register.
Proof 1
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FLOOR PROJECTSProof 1
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FLOOR PROJEC T S
F loors are the hardest-working component of most
homes, taking the brunt of foot traffic and also
serving as a major decorative element—generally they
are the largest unbroken surface area of any room.
Because they are constantly in use, most flooring
surfaces need to be refreshed at least once if you own
your home for many years.
This chapter includes six representative flooring
FLOOR PROJECTS
projects of the types that aren’t usually covered in
standard flooring books. Among these are some purely
decorative projects that you might tackle as part of
cosmetic remodeling when old surface flooring is
removed in favor of new flooring that freshens your
home’s style statement. Also included is structural
flooring work, such as installing underlayment panels
during a major attic, basement, or room addition
project, and the kind of system upgrade represented
by installing an underfloor heating system for a
bathroom or kitchen.
This chapter will be a helpful resource if you’re
looking for the kind of unique flooring improvement
that truly sets your home apart.
■ IN THIS CHAPTER:
• Planning Overview
• Floor Anatomy
• Installing Raised Subfloor Panels
• Installing Laminate Flooring
• Underfloor Radiant Heat Systems
• Laying a Decorative Floor Medallion
• Bonded Bamboo Strip Flooring
• Cork Tile
• Mosaic Tile
Proof 1
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PL A N N I NG OV E RV I E W
A floor is one of the most visible parts of your decor,
which is why appearance is a primary consideration
when choosing floor coverings. Start your search by
collecting ideas and inspiration from magazines and
books, and visit retail flooring showrooms and home
centers to get a sense of what your options are.
As important as appearance is, there are many
other considerations that will go into your flooring
FLOOR PROJECTS
decision. You’ll no doubt put your budget near the top
of the list, but you should think about how easy the
floor will be to install, how comfortable it is underfoot,
its longevity and durability, its resistance to moisture,
and how easy it is to clean. You’ll also need to assess
the demands of the space, including moisture, heavy
traffic, and other conditions.
When estimating materials for your project, always
Measure the area of the project room to calculate the
add 10 to 15 percent to the total square footage to
quantity of materials you’ll need. Measure the full width and
allow for waste in installation (some carpet installations length of the space to determine the overall square footage,
may require even more). And always save extra flooring then subtract the areas that will not be covered, such as
materials just in case you ever need to make a repair. stairways, cabinets, and other permanent fixtures.
Checklist for Planning a Flooring Project ▸
Use this checklist to organize your activities as you start screws. Add 10 to 15% to your total square footage to
your flooring project. allow for waste caused by trimming. For some carpet
installations you will need to add even more. Tip: For
• Measure the project area carefully. Be sure to help in estimating, go to a building supply center
include all nooks and closets, as well as areas under and read the labels on materials and adhesives to
all movable appliances. Calculate the total square determine coverage.
footage of the project area. • Make a list of the tools needed for the job. Locate
• Use your measurements to create a floor plan on sources for the tools you will need to buy or rent.
graph paper. • Estimate the total cost of the project, including all
• Sketch pattern options on tracing paper laid over the preparation materials, flooring, installation materials,
floor plan to help you visualize what the flooring will and tools. For expensive materials, shop around to
look like after you install it. get the best prices.
• Identify areas where the type of floor covering will • Check with building supply centers or flooring retail
change, and choose the best threshold material to stores for delivery costs. A delivery service is often
use for the transition. worth the additional charge.
• Estimate the amount of preparation material • Determine how much demolition you will need to
needed, including underlayment sheets and do, and plan for debris removal through your regular
floor leveler. garbage collector or a disposal company.
• Estimate the amount of installation material needed, • Plan for the temporary displacement of furnishings
including the floor covering and other supplies, such and removable appliances to minimize disruption of
as adhesive, grout, thresholds, tackless strips, and your daily routine.Proof 1
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F LOOR A NATOM Y
A typical wood-frame floor consists of layers that
work together to provide the required structural
support and desired appearance. These parts include:
rolls generally require tackless strips and
cushioned padding.
5. Floorcovering. Other materials, such as snap-
fit laminate planks or carpet squares, can be
1. Joists. At the bottom of the floor are the joists, installed directly on the underlayment with little
2 × 10 or larger framing members that support or no adhesive.
the weight of the floor. Joists are typically spaced
16 inches apart on center.
FLOOR PROJECTS
2. Subfloor. The subfloor is nailed to the joists. Most
subfloors installed in the 1970s or later are made Asbestos & Flooring ▸
of ¾-inch tongue-and-groove plywood; in older
houses, the subfloor often consists of 1-inch-thick Resilient flooring manufactured before 1980 may
wood planks nailed diagonally across the floor joists. contain asbestos, which can cause severe lung
3. Underlayment. On top of the subfloor, most problems if inhaled. The easiest method for dealing
builders place a ½-inch plywood underlayment. with asbestos-containing flooring is to cover it with
Some flooring materials, especially ceramic tile, a new floorcovering. If the asbestos flooring must be
require cementboard for stability. removed, consult an asbestos-abatement professional
4. Adhesive. For many types of floor coverings, or ask a local building inspector to explain the asbestos
adhesive or mortar is spread on the underlayment handling and disposal regulations in your area.
before the floor covering is installed. Carpet
■ C U TAWAY OF A T Y PICA L F L OOR
Floor covering
Adhesive
Underlayment
Subfloor
Joist
Not all floor covering materials require adhesive; some materials, such as snap-fit laminate, are installed directly on
the underlayment.
Proof 1
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I NSTA L L I NG R A I SE D SU BF LOOR PA N E L S
R aised subfloor panels are an excellent choice as a
base layer when installing wood or laminate floors
over concrete slabs, such as in a basement. The raised
Tools & Materials ▸
panels do an even better job of protecting against Long board
moisture than simple plastic vapor barriers. Floor leveler and trowel (if needed)
Do not expect a raised subfloor to eliminate Tape measure
problems in a basement with severe water problems, Circular saw
however. The system works very well for combatting the Jigsaw
Carpenter’s square
FLOOR PROJECTS
normal moisture that is always present in an otherwise
water-secure basement, but a basement that frequently Tapping block and pull bar
has puddled water must be corrected in a more Hammer
aggressive way before flooring can be laid over the slab. ¼" wall spacers
The raised subfloor panels fit together securely with Particle mask
simple tongue-and-groove edges, and for best results the Eye and ear protection
concrete slab must first be examined for dips or cracks,
and leveled out before laying the subfloor panels.
■ HOW TO I NSTA L L R A ISE D SU BF LOOR PA N E L S OV E R A CONCR ET E SL A B
1 2
Clean the concrete floor and install temporary ¼" spacers Check the first corner for square, using a carpenter’s
along all walls. Starting with the longest wall, measure the square. If it is not square, the first panel will need to be angled
length of the wall, and calculate the number of panels needed in the back corner to ensure the first row will fit flush against
by dividing this length by the width of the panel (most products the wall along its entire length.
are 2 × 2'). If necessary, trim the starting panel to ensure that
the last panel in the first row will be at least 3" in width.Proof 1
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3 4
FLOOR PROJECTS
Lay the first panel with the tongue side flat against the Before beginning the second row, check the first row
wall spacers. Slide the next panel into place by connecting its for flatness, and if there are any areas with “give” or bounce,
tongue into the groove of the preceding panel. Using a tapping adjust them with leveling shims inserted under the panels.
block, snug up the tongue-and-groove joint. For the last panel
in the first row, measure the gap between the last installed panel
and the wall spacer, and cut the last panel to this measurement.
Install by inserting the tongue of the cut panel into the groove of
the preceding panel, and levering it down into place. Pull it into
place so the joint is secure using a pull bar.
5 6
As you start the second row, cut the first panel in half, At the last row, trim the wall side of the panels to fit the
so that seams will be staggered between rows. Begin with space between the previous row and the wall spacers, and
the half panel, and install the second row as you did the snug up their joints with the pull bar. Remove all spacers.
first, sliding the tongues into the grooves of the preceding
row, and snugging them up with the tapping block. Install
the subsequent rows, so that the first panels alternate, with
odd number rows matching the pattern of the first row, even
numbered rows matching the pattern of the second row.
Proof 1
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I NSTA L L I NG L A M I NAT E F LOOR I NG
M ost big-name flooring manufacturers now feature
dozens if not hundreds of laminate flooring
options among their catalogues, for a very simple
rooms. And there have been cases of lower-quality, non-
brand-name flooring products that delaminate over time.
You can minimize the chances for problems by
reason: laminates are favorites among DIYers and buying a quality product from a well-known, reputable
value-conscious shoppers. manufacturer, and checking the product specifications to
Laminate flooring is a multilayer synthetic product make sure it is appropriate for your planned location. Most
in which the layers are fused (laminated) together. The manufacturers offer products marketed as “waterproof” or
core of the flooring is usually a high-density fiberboard “water-resistant” for bathrooms and other wet locations,
FLOOR PROJECTS
(HDF) that is tightly bonded with resins. To this though you should be aware that these will never be quite
core, a photo appliqué layer is bonded—this layer is as genuinely waterproof as ceramic tile or vinyl floor.
not wood at all, but a plastic layer that can be made Early laminate flooring products were installed with
to look remarkably like any kind of wood. Over the a full glue-down bond to the subfloor, and while some
plastic photo layer is a clear protective surface layer of these products are still available, the vast majority
that protects against wear. of laminate floors are now installed with a “floating”
The technology makes it possible for the flooring system that require no glue. A locking channel system
to closely resemble any desired wood simply by varying holds the planks together both along the length and at
the photo appliqué layer. Recent advances even allow the ends, and simple gravity holds the flooring down.
the laminate products to be textured in a way that Because laminate floors float, foot traffic can
closely mimics actual wood grain. Laminate flooring create a hollow sound as the flooring flexes under
products are very stable and easy to install, making footsteps. This is one reason why all manufacturers
them an excellent choice for DIYers. require that the flooring be installed on a special
Laminate flooring products have few drawbacks, but underlayment that deadens the sound and minimizes
they can be susceptible to scratching, especially in high the flexing of the floor. Some flooring products
traffic areas, and they are not always the best choice have the resilient foam underlayment already attached
for high moisture areas, such as bathrooms or laundry to the bottom of the flooring planks.
■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A F L OAT I NG L A M I N AT E F L OOR
Tools & Materials ▸ 1
Eye & ear protection Chisel
Work gloves Level
Utility knife Caulk gun
Tape measure Liquid floor leveler
Power miter saw (if necessary)
Circular saw Nails (as needed)
Flush-cutting handsaw Sheet underlayment
Shop vacuum kit with clear tape
Framing square Laminate flooring
Pry bar Wood glue
Jigsaw Flooring spacers
Inspect each plank, and reject any that are scarred or that
Pull bar Finishing putty have damaged tongues or grooves. For the first row of planks
Tapping block Mildew-resistant along the wall, remove the tongues along the long sides of the
Rubber mallet silicone caulk planks using a circular saw or tablesaw. Note: If you are ripping
Hammer T-moldings the first row down to accommodate a partial plank, then makeProof 1
sure to cut away the tongue-side of the plank.
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2 3
FLOOR PROJECTS
Variation: If your wall is irregular, using a compass to trace the Cross-cut a plank into 1⁄3- and 2⁄3-length segments.
wall outline on the plank, then use a jigsaw to cut the plank to These pieces will be used to start the second and third
conform to the wall’s contours. rows, respectively.
4 5
Begin laying the first row using the planks with the tongues Install the subsequent rows of planks, alternating full
cut away, beginning with a full-length piece in the corner. Make plank, 2⁄3-length plank, and 1⁄3-length plank, so that joints are
sure to maintain a 3⁄8" gap along both walls. For the second staggered in a repeating pattern. To fit each plank, first insert
piece, align the end tongue-and-groove, and snap into place. At the tongue into the edge groove of the previous row of planks,
the last plank in the row, cut the plank to fit with a miter saw, then slide it laterally until the new plank butts up to the end of
Proof 1
maintaining the 3⁄8" gap to the wall (inset). the preceding piece. Snap downward to lock into place.
(continued)
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6 7 8
FLOOR PROJECTS
If necessary, tap on the opposite At the last piece in the row, cut As you install the last row, lay each
end of the plank with a tapping block to length to size, then fit the piece into the full piece against the wall on top of the
snug up the joint. Take care, though, not edge groove, and use the pull bar and last installed piece, with a scrap plank
to damage the plank. hammer to lightly draw the piece back positioned vertically against the wall as
to secure the end joint. a spacer. Trace the wall contour onto
the plank.
9 10 11
Cut along the scribed lines of the To install the pieces of the final Reinstall the trim moldings that
last planks using a jigsaw. row, slide the long-side tongue into were removed, covering the gaps
the groove of the previous row, with between the flooring and the wall.
the ends aligned. Use the pull bar and Remember the floating floor needs to
hammer to work along the length of expand and contract, so make sure to
the plank, pulling toward you to gently drive finish nails at an angle into theProof 1
secure the joint. wall, not into the flooring.
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■ HOW TO C U T L A M I NAT E F L OOR I NG FOR OPE N I NG S & OB STAC L E S
1 2
FLOOR PROJECTS
For pipes, carefully measure and mark where the opening will be, by aligning the piece to be installed against the obstacle
and marking with a pencil. Make sure to add a 3⁄8" expansion gap around all sides. Then, cut the opening with a hole saw. Extend
the notch to the edges of the plank using a jigsaw.
For internal cutouts, such as those
required for floor ducts, first outline the
opening on the laminate plank. Drill small
corner holes as pilot openings, then use a
jigsaw to cut out the opening.
Proof 1
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U N DE R F LOOR R A DI A N T H E AT SYST E M S
F loor-warming systems require very little energy to
run and are designed to heat ceramic tile floors
only; they generally are not used as sole heat sources
connect to an existing GFCI circuit, but a larger
one will need a dedicated circuit; follow the
manufacturer’s requirements.
for rooms. To order a floor-warming system, contact the
A typical floor-warming system consists of one or manufacturer or dealer. In most cases, you can send
more thin mats containing electric resistance wires them plans and they’ll custom-fit a system for your
that heat up when energized like an electric blanket. project area.
The mats are installed beneath the tile and are
FLOOR PROJECTS
hardwired to a 120-volt GFCI circuit. A thermostat
controls the temperature, and a timer turns the system
off automatically. Tools & Materials ▸
The system shown in this project includes two
plastic mesh mats, each with its own power lead that Vacuum cleaner Trowel or rubber float
is wired directly to the thermostat. Radiant mats may Multimeter Conduit
be installed over a plywood subfloor, but if you plan Tape measure Thinset mortar
to install floor tile you should put down a base of Scissors Thermostat with sensor
cementboard first, and then install the mats on top of Router/rotary tool Junction box(es)
the cementboard. Marker Tile or stone floorcovering
A crucial part of installing this system is to use Electric wire fault Drill
a multimeter to perform several resistance checks to indicator (optional) Double-sided carpet tape
make sure the heating wires have not been damaged Hot glue gun Cable clamps
during shipping or installation. Radiant floor mats Eye and ear protection
Electrical service required for a floor-warming 12/2 NM cable
system is based on size. A smaller system may
A radiant floor-warming system
employs electric heating mats that are
covered with floor tile to create a floor
that’s cozy underfoot.Proof 1
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Installation Tips ▸
Thermostat
Dedicated circuit cable
Timer
FLOOR PROJECTS
Thermostat sensor wire
Electrical conduit
Power lead
Heating mats
Floor tile
Thinset mortar
Heating mat
Concrete or cementboard underlayment
A floor-warming system requires a dedicated circuit to
power and control its heating mats, thermostat, and timer.
• Each radiant mat must have a direct connection to the power lead from the thermostat, with the connection made in
a junction box in the wall cavity. Do not install mats in series.
• Do not install radiant floor mats under shower areas.
• Do not overlap mats or let them touch.
• Do not cut heating wire or damage heating wire insulation.
• The distance between wires in adjoining mats should equal the distance between wire loops measured center
to center.
Proof 1
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■ I NSTA L L I NG A R A DI A N T F L OOR‑WA R M I NG SYST E M
FLOOR PROJECTS
Floor-warming systems must be installed on a circuit with An electric wire fault indicator monitors each floor mat for
adequate amperage and a GFCI breaker. Smaller systems may continuity during the installation process. If there is a break in
tie into an existing circuit, but larger ones need a dedicated continuity (for example, if a wire is cut) an alarm sounds. If you
circuit. Follow local building and electrical codes that apply to choose not to use an installation tool to monitor the mat, test
your project. for continuity frequently using a multimeter.
■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A R A DI A N T F L OOR‑WA R M I NG SYST E M
1 2
Install electrical boxes to house the thermostat and timer. Drill access holes in the sole plate for the power leads
In most cases, the box should be located 60" above floor level. that are preattached to the mats (they should be over 10'
Use a 4"-deep, 4"-wide double-gang box for the thermostat/ long). The leads should be connected to a supply wire from the
timer control if your kit has an integral model. If your timer thermostat in a junction box located in a wall near the floor
and thermostat are separate, install a separate single box for and below the thermostat box. The access hole for each mat
the timer. should be located directly beneath the knockout for that cable
in the thermostat box. Drill through the sill plate vertically and
horizontally so the holes meet in an L-shape.Proof 1
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3 4
Clean the floor surface thoroughly to get rid of any debris
that could potentially damage the wire mats. A vacuum cleaner
FLOOR PROJECTS
generally does a more effective job than a broom.
5
Test for resistance using a multimeter set to measure
ohms. This is a test you should make frequently during
the installation, along with checking for continuity. If the
resistance is off by more than 10% from the theoretical
resistance listing (see manufacturer’s chart in installation
instructions), contact a technical support operator for the kit
manufacturer. For example, the theoretical resistance for the
1 × 50' mat seen here is 19, so the ohms reading should be
between 17 and 21.
6
Run conduit from the electrical boxes to the sill plate.
The line for the supply cable should be ¾" conduit. If you
are installing multiple mats, the supply conduit should feed
into a junction box about 6" above the sill plate and then
continue into the ¾" hole you drilled for the supply leads. The
sensor wire needs only ½" conduit that runs straight from Finalize your mat layout plan. Most radiant floor warming
the thermostat box via the thermostat. The mats should be mat manufacturers will provide a layout plan for you at the
powered by a dedicated 20-amp GFCI circuit of 12/2 NM cable time of purchase, or they will give you access to an online
run from your main service panel to the electrical box (this is design tool so you can come up with your own plan. This is
for 120-volt mats—check your instruction manual for specific an important step to the success of your project, and the
circuit recommendations). assistance is free.
Proof 1
(continued)
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FLOOR PROJECTS
Unroll the radiant mat or mats and allow them to settle. Finalize the mat layout and then test the resistance
Arrange the mat or mats according to the plan you created. again using a multimeter. Also check for continuity in several
It’s okay to cut the plastic mesh so you can make curves different spots. If there is a problem with any of the mats, you
or switchbacks, but do not cut the heating wire under any should identify it and correct it before proceeding with the
circumstances, even to shorten it. mortar installation.
9
Run the thermostat sensor wire from the electrical box Variation: If your local codes require it, roll the mats out of the
down the ½" conduit raceway and out the access hole in the way and cut a channel for the sensor and the sensor wires
sill plate. Select the best location for the thermostat sensor and into the floor or floor underlayment. For most floor materials,
mark the location onto the flooring. Also mark the locations of a spiral cutting tool does a quick and neat job of this task.
the wires that connect to and lead from the sensor. Remove any debris.Proof 1
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10 11
FLOOR PROJECTS
Bond the mats to the floor. If the mats in your system have Cover the floor installation areas with a layer of thinset
adhesive strips, peel off the adhesive backing and roll out mortar that is thick enough to fully encapsulate all the wires
the mats in the correct position, pressing them against the and mats (usually around ¼" in thickness). Check the wires
floor to set the adhesive. If your mats have no adhesive, bind for continuity and resistance regularly and stop working
them with strips of double-sided carpet tape. The thermostat immediately if there is a drop in resistance or a failure of
sensor and the power supply leads should be attached with continuity. Allow the mortar to dry overnight.
hot glue (inset photo) and run up into their respective holes in
the sill plate if you have not done this already. Test all mats for
resistance and continuity.
12 13
Connect the power supply leads from the mat or mats to Connect the sensor wire and the power supply lead
the NM cable coming from the thermostat inside the junction (from the junction box) to the thermostat/timer according
box near the sill. Power must be turned off. The power leads to the manufacturer’s directions. Attach the device to the
should be cut so about 8" of wire feeds into the box. Be sure to electrical box, restore power, and test the system to make sure
use cable clamps to protect the wires. it works. Once you are convinced that it is operating properly,
install floor tiles and repair the wall surfaces.
Proof 1
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FLOOR PROJECTS
A medallion made from wood strips and veneers makes a beautiful design highlight when inset into a wood floor. Flooring
retailers and online flooring sellers should have access to many designs. A local craftsman can also make a custom medallion
for you.
■ I NSTA L L I NG A ■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A
DE COR AT I V E M E DA L L ION F L OOR M E DA L L ION
If anything is more beautiful under your feet than
a newly installed hardwood floor, it’s a decorative
centerpiece that complements the rest of the surface.
1
Ready-made hardwood medallions, such as the one
shown in this project, are relatively easy to install and
provide a focal point for the entire room.
Tools & Materials ▸
Medallion Eye and ear protection
Installation jig Pry bar
Hammer Wood putty
Nails Trowel
Notched trowel Urethane flooring adhesive
Router Place the medallion on the floor where you want it
installed. Draw a line around the medallion onto the floor.Proof 1
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FLOOR PROJECTS
Nail the installation jig to the floor so the opening is aligned Using the router bit that came with the medallion, place the
with the outline you drew in the previous step. Drive the nails bearing of the router bit on the inside edge of the jig opening
into joints in the floor. and make a ¼"-deep cut. Remove any exposed nails or staples.
Make repeated passes with the router, gradually increasing
the depth.
4 5
Use a pry bar to remove the flooring inside the hole. Remove Apply urethane flooring adhesive to the subfloor where
all nails. Dry-fit the medallion to ensure it fits. Remove the jig the hardwood was removed. Spread the adhesive with a
and fill nail holes with wood putty. trowel. Set the medallion in place and push it firmly into the
adhesive so it’s level with the surrounding floor.
Proof 1
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BON DE D BA M BOO ST R I P F LOOR I NG
I t looks like hardwood, and is available in traditional
tongue-and-groove form and in laminate planks. But
bamboo is not wood. It’s really a grass—and one of the
most popular flooring materials today.
Bamboo flooring is made by shredding stalks of
the raw material, then pressing them together with
a resin that holds the shreds in their finished shape.
Not only is bamboo a fast-growing and renewable
FLOOR PROJECTS
crop, the companies that make bamboo flooring
use binders with low emissions of volatile organic
compounds (VOCs). The result is tough, economical,
and ecologically friendly. In other words, it’s just about
perfect for flooring.
If you choose tongue-and-groove bamboo, the
installation techniques are the same as for hardwoods.
Bamboo is also available as a snap-fit laminate for use
in floating floors. In this project we show Teragren Bamboo flooring can mimic the appearance of classic
Synergy Strand in Java (see Resources, 000): thin, hardwood, but is a much more sustainable resource that
durable planks that are glued to the underlayment. produces less harmful chemicals during the production process.
Tools & Materials ▸
Adhesive Moisture level meter Bamboo flooring material Weights
Carpenter’s level Notched trowel Hammer Trim
Carpenter’s square Rubber mallet Drill Floor leveler (if necessary)
Chalk line Scrap lumber Screws Sandpaper
Cleaning supplies Shims Nails Eye and ear protection
Marking pen or pencil Straightedge Circular saw Work gloves
Tape measure Weighted roller Butcher paper
Tips for a Successful Installation ▸
Bamboo plank flooring should be one of the last items installed
on any new construction or remodeling project. All work
60° 70°
RECOMENDED involving water or moisture should be completed before floor
TEMPERATURE
RANGE installation. Room temperature and humidity of installation area
40% 60% should be consistent with normal, year-round living conditions
RECOMENDED
HUMIDITY for at least a week before installation. Room temperature of 60
RANGE
to 70ºF and a humidity range of 40 to 60% is recommended.
About radiant heat: the subfloor should never exceed 85ºF.
Check the manufacturer’s suggested guidelines for correct water
temperature inside heating pipes. Switch on the heating unit
three days before flooring installation. Room temperature should
not vary more than 15ºF year-round. For glue-down installations,Proof 1
leave the heating unit on for three days following installation.
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L BA M BOO ST R I P F L OOR I NG
1 2
FLOOR PROJECTS
Give the bamboo time to adjust to installation conditions. Even though thin-plank bamboo is an engineered material,
Store it for at least 72 hours in or near the room where it will it can vary in appearance. Buy all planks from the same lot
be installed. Open the packages for inspection, but do not and batch number. Then inspect the planks to make sure
store the planks on concrete or near outside walls. they match. Use the same lighting as you will have in the
finished room.
3 4
Inspect the underlayment. Bamboo planks can be installed Make sure the underlayment is level. It should not change
on plywood or oriented strandboard at least ¾" thick. The by more than 1⁄8" over 10'. If necessary, apply a floor leveler
underlayment must be structurally sound; wood surfaces to fill any low places, and sand down any high spots. Prevent
should have no more than 12% moisture. squeaks by driving screws every 6" into the subfloor below.
5 6
3'
4'
5'
Proof 1
Sweep and vacuum the surface, then measure all Check corners for squareness using the 3-4-5
room dimensions. triangle method. (continued)
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The planks should be perpendicular to the floor joists Lay the first course of planks with the tongue edge toward
below. Adjust your starting point if necessary. Snap a chalk line the wall. Align the planks with the chalk line. Hold the edge
next to the longest wall. The distance from the wall should be course in place with wedges, or by nailing through the tongue
the same at both ends, leaving ½" for expansion. edge. This row will anchor the others, so make sure it stays
securely in place.
9 10
Once the starter row is in place, install the planks using When the adhesive is tacky and ready to use, lay the
a premium wood flooring adhesive. Be sure to follow the first section of bamboo planks. Set each plank in the adhesive
manufacturer’s instructions. Begin at the chalk line and apply by placing a clean piece of scrap lumber on top and tapping it
enough adhesive to lay down one or two rows of planks. down with a rubber mallet. Check the edge of each section to
Spread the adhesive with a V-notched trowel at a 45° angle. Let make sure it keeps a straight line.
the adhesive sit for the specified time.
11 12
After you finish the first section, cover the next area with When the adhesive is ready, lay down the next section of
adhesive and give it time to become tacky. Waiting for the planks. Fit the new planks tightly against the previous section,Proof 1
adhesive to become tacky is necessary, even though it slows your taking care not to knock the finished section out of alignment. If the
work down—and it allows the section you just finished to set up. planks have tongue-and-groove edges, fit them carefully into place.
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Continue applying adhesive and installing planks, one At the edges and around any fixed objects, such as
section at a time, to cover the entire floor. When adhesive gets doorways or plumbing pipes, leave a ½" gap for expansion.
on the flooring surface, wipe it off quickly. Use shims to maintain the gaps if needed. These spaces can
be covered with baseboards, base shoe, and escutcheons.
15 16
As you finish each section, walk across it a few times to In places that are difficult to reach with a roller, lay
maximize contact between the planks and the adhesive. When down a sheet of protective material, such as butcher paper,
all the planks are in place, clean the surface and use a clean and stack weights on the paper. Let the finished floor sit for at
Proof 1
weighted roller. Push the roller in several directions, covering least 24 hours, then clean the surface and remove any spacers
the entire surface many times. from the expansion gaps. Finally, install the finishing trim.
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COR K T I L E
C ork flooring has all kinds of benefits. It dampens
sound, resists static, insulates surfaces, and
provides visual warmth like no other floor covering. Cork
original color or stained, cork has beautiful patterns
that range from burls to spalting. Every tile is different,
which means no two installations will look the same.
is a renewable natural product—tree bark—that can be The tiles may seem fragile, but they take on the
harvested once a decade without cutting down the tree. strength of the underlayment below. In fact, once
Natural cork tiles complement most furnishings a cork floor is installed and properly sealed, it can
and decorations, and can be found in every shade withstand normal household use just as well as any
from honey yellow to deep espresso brown. Left in its other material.
FLOOR PROJECTS
Tools & Materials ▸
Tape measure Scrap lumber Paint roller and tray Paper
Chalk line Rubber mallet Recommended flooring adhesive Vacuum
Utility knife Joint sealer Level Floor roller
Cork tile Sander Straightedge
Notched trowel Floor sealer Eye and ear protection
Tips for a Successful Installation ▸
Before you work with any cork flooring material, remove it from the package and leave it in the room where it will be
installed. This lets the material adjust to the room’s temperature and humidity. Manufacturers recommend acclimating
cork for at least 72 hours.
Cork is a renewable material that
is comfortable underfoot and dampens
sound. Cork is also available in many
shades and has a striking natural texture.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L COR K T I L E
1 2 3
FLOOR PROJECTS
If you plan to install the cork Measure the outside edges of the If the last row will be less than ¼ the
on plywood underlayment or a similar room, and snap chalk lines across the width of one tile, adjust the center point
material, make sure the surface is clean center. Dry-lay a row of tiles from the to balance the layout.
and dry, with no more change in level center to each wall.
than 1⁄8" over 10'. Fill any low spots and
sand down any high spots.
4 5 6
Apply a recommended adhesive, Cork adhesive needs to set for 20 Begin at the intersection of the
using the method specified by the to 30 minutes before you can begin two center guidelines, and set the first
manufacturer. Some adhesives are best laying the cork tiles. After that, the tile in place. Check to make sure the
applied with a paint roller, others with working time is roughly one hour. adhesive holds it firmly. Continue laying
a notched trowel. Put down only as Check the setting time specified by the tiles in the first quadrant along your
much adhesive as you can use in the adhesive manufacturer. layout lines.
Proof 1
time allowed.
(continued)
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7 8
FLOOR PROJECTS
Fill in the first quadrant, one tile at a time, working from the To fit each new tile in place, hold a piece of scrap lumber
row laid next to the layout lines. Cork tile colors and patterns against the edge and tap it gently with a rubber mallet. If the
will vary. Use this to your advantage by mixing batches for humidity is high during installation, fit the tiles together tightly
greater variety. so they won’t pull apart in drier weather.
9 10
As you complete each row, check to see that all edges are To fit tile around an object, such as a pipe or drain, cut a
straight. If a row has gone out of line, remove as many tiles as tile-sized piece of paper. Work the paper into the space, cutting
necessary and start again. It’s frustrating to make corrections as needed until it fits. Then lay the paper on a tile and use it as
now, but it’s difficult or impossible later. a cutting guide. Cut tiles with a utility knife.Proof 1
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11 12
¼"
FLOOR PROJECTS
Like other natural materials, cork will expand and If your cork floor measures more than 30' in any direction,
contract as the temperature and humidity change. To allow install a 5⁄8"-wide expansion joint—either in a continuous
space for varying conditions, leave a ¼" gap between the surface or where the cork meets another flooring material. This
finished floor and all walls, thresholds, water pipes, and other allows the cork to flex with changing conditions.
vertical surfaces.
13 14
Once all the tiles are in place, vacuum the surface to After rolling the surface, clean it once more and apply a
remove all dust. Make several passes across the entire surface recommended sealer. The most common is a water-based
with a 100-pound floor roller. Move the roller in different polyurethane. Make sure the sealer penetrates all joints so it
directions to press every tile down securely. Let the finished prevents moisture from entering and damaging the finished
floor sit overnight, then roll it again. floor. Allow the sealed floor to cure for another day before you
use it. Install molding, trim, and other finishing pieces.
Proof 1
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MOSA IC T I L E
M osaic tile is an excellent choice for smaller areas.
It requires the same preparation and handling as
larger tiles, with a few differences. Sheets of mosaic
tile are held together by a fabric-mesh base. This
makes them more difficult to hold, place, and move.
They may not be square with your guidelines when
you first lay them down. And mosaic tiles will require
many more temporary spacers and much more grout.
FLOOR PROJECTS
A few cautions: variations in color and texture
are just as likely with mosaic tile as with individual
tiles, so buy all your tile from the same lot and batch.
Different types of tiles will require different types
of mortar and mastic. Finally, if the finished project
will be exposed to the elements, make sure you have
adhesive and grout suitable for outdoor use.
Tools & Materials ▸
Carpenter’s square Recommended adhesive
Chalk line Rubber mallet
Cleaning supplies Sanded grout
Coarse sponge Scrap lumber
Grout sealer Tile nippers
Marking pen Tile spacers
Mosaic tiles come in sheets (usually 12 × 12") and can be
or pencil Mosaic tile sheets made from ceramic, porcelain, glass or any number of designer
Tape measure Grout float materials. Normally installed for their appearance, mosaics are
Notched trowel Eye and ear protection relatively high maintenance and prone to cracks because of all
the grout lines.
■ HOW TO I NSTA L L MOSA IC T I L E
1 2
Clean and prepare the area as you would for individual tiles, Select a sheet of mosaic tile. Place several plastic spacers
with reference lines beginning in the center. Beginning at the within the grid so that the sheet remains square. Pick up the
center intersection, apply the recommended adhesive to one sheet of tiles by diagonally opposite corners. This will help you
quadrant. Spread it outward evenly with a notched trowel. Lay hold the edges up so that you don’t trap empty space in theProof 1
down only as much adhesive as you can cover in 10 to 15 minutes. middle of the sheet.
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3 4
FLOOR PROJECTS
Gently press one corner into place on the adhesive. Slowly When you have placed two or three sheets, lay a scrap
lower the opposite corner, making sure the sides remain piece of flat lumber across the tops and tap the wood with a
square with your reference lines. Massage the sheet into the rubber mallet to set the fabric mesh in the adhesive, and to
adhesive, being careful not to press too hard or twist the sheet force out any trapped air. Note: Staple scrap carpet material to
out of position. Insert a few spacers in the outside edges of the lumber to protect the tile surface.
the sheet you have just placed. This will help keep the grout
lines consistent.
5 6
At the outer edges of your work area, you will probably After the adhesive has cured, usually 24 to 48 hours, apply
need to trim one or more rows from the last sheet. If the space grout as you would for individual tiles. With many more spaces,
left at the edge is more than the width of a regular grout line, mosaic tiles will require more grout. Follow the manufacturer’s
use tile nippers to trim the last row that will fit. Save these instructions for spreading and floating the grout. Clean up
Proof 1
leftover tiles for repairs. using the instructions for individual tiles (see page 389).
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CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTSProof 1
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CABINET S,
COUNTER TOPS &
STORAGE PROJEC T S
C abinets, countertops, and storage elements are
very often one aspect of a major remodeling
or renovation project—many of the projects in
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
this chapter might be part of such an overreaching
renovation. But they also can serve as great standalone
projects for when you want to do a bit of cosmetic
face-lifting or upgrade with a custom add-on or two.
You can install a new countertop in just a weekend,
and it can make a kitchen or bathroom look brand
new again. Even more ambitiously, adding an
impressive custom storage unit, such as a formal
bookcase or laundry center, can transform a fairly
ordinary home into one that looks like a fine, custom-
crafted structure.
But the best time to consider adding some of
these unique features is during major remodeling,
such as when you are converting an attic or basement
to living space, when you are doing an overall kitchen
or bathroom remodel, or when you are pulling out
all stops by adding a structural room addition to your
home. This is a chapter you’ll want to consult carefully
in conjunction to the later sections dedicated to
major remodeling.
■ IN THIS CHAPTER:
• Materials
• Understairs Bookcases
• Basement Stairway Shelving
• Basement Storage Wall
• Custom Laundry Center
• Double-Bowl Vanity Top
• Butcher Block Countertops
• Concrete Countertop
• Granite Tile Countertops
• Banquette
• Recessed Cabinet
• Window Seat
• Wall Niche
• Formal Bookcase
• Box Beam Shelves
• Media Bar
• Club Bar
Proof 1
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AC fir plywood
M AT E R I A L S
Maple plywood
■ SH E E T GOODS
There are many different types of plywood for a wide
array of uses. For built-in and shelf projects, finish-
grade or paint-grade plywood is commonly used. Each
Cherry MDF type is made up of thinly sliced layers called plies.
These layers are made of solid hardwood, softwood,
or wood products. The more plies a sheet good has,
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
the stronger it will be. This is only true for veneer-
based plies. Medium density fiberboard, or MDF,
is made of wood fibers that have been glued and
pressed together. These panels are extremely stable
Baltic birch and rarely shrink or warp, but will expand when wet.
Plywood thicknesses range from 1⁄8 to 1 inch. Many
species of wood are available for the outer plywood
veneers. The core, or inner plies, give the panel its
structural characteristics.
AC plywood has a finish-grade face on one side
and a utility grade on the other. Standard AC plywood
Lumber core is made of seven plies of softwood, such as spruce or
plywood pine. This plywood is a good choice for paint-grade
moldings. Hardwood veneer plywood is available in
red oak and maple or birch at most home centers. Its
inner core is basically the same as AC plywood, but it
has a hardwood outer face. MDF oak veneer plywood
is made up of three layers: two outer oak veneers
and a solid core made of MDF. This plywood tends
MDO to be less expensive than a veneer core product and
has a smoother face, but is heavy and does not hold
fasteners as well.
MDF is available with or without an outer veneer.
Baltic birch plywood is made up of equal size plies,
all without voids, so the edges are attractive and can
be left exposed. This panel is commonly used in
Modern-style furniture and cabinets and with a clear
finish. Lumber-core plywood has strips of solid wood
edge-glued between outer veneer plies. Medium
MDF density overlay, or MDO, plywood has a plywood core
with a resin-coated paper face. This panel is moisture
resistant, unlike MDF, and has the fastening strength
of a solid veneer core. The face is perfect for paint-
grade applications. Wainscot paneling is available in
several thicknesses from 3/16 to 5⁄8 inch.Proof 1
Wainscot
paneling
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■ LU M BE R Poplar
Solid hardwood is available at most home centers
in varying widths. Species vary, depending on your
location. These boards make good solid stock material
to combine with or mill into new trim moldings
because they are already planed to a uniform
thickness. If you can’t find the type of lumber you
need at a home center, check with a lumberyard or Aspen
a woodworking store in your area. Most lumberyards
Mahogany
will charge a nominal flat fee to plane the boards
for you. You can also order almost any type of
wood online.
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Common Defects ▸
Whenever possible, do a quick inspection of each
board before you purchase it. Because hardwood
lumber is often stained, carefully take note of
cosmetic flaws such as splits, knots, checks, and
wanes. These issues can sometimes be cut around, Red oak
but once the finish is applied, the imperfection will
show through. Lumber that is twisted, cupped, or
crooked should be avoided. If a board is slightly
bowed, you can probably flatten it out as you nail it.
In any case, always choose the straightest, flattest
Cherry
lumber you can find.
Cup
Bow
Maple
Twist
Walnut
Crook
Check
Split
Knot
Wane
Pine
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U N DE R STA I R S BOOKCA SE S
I f your home has a staircase with open space below,
chances are you’ve wondered how to make the most
of that oddly configured square footage. This bookcase
swinging doors are also made of birch. The secret
to building the face frames and the doorframes is a
clever woodworking technique known as the pocket
project could be the answer. Behind the two pairs of screw joint made with angled screws driven into the
gently rising birch-frame doors you’ll find a bank of back sides of the mating pieces.
birch plywood shelves that are designed for use as a Understairs storage units are often made with
formal bookcase. Because the door panels are created slide-out shelving or pull-out drawers. This strategy
with Plexiglas, the shelves are also quite suitable for allows for efficient use of space since the pull-
display purposes. out units can be nearly as deep as the total stair
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
While the bookcase cabinets must be custom-fit width. The drawback is that the drawers or slide-
to your space, the basic design of the individual units out shelves can be a bit rickety, especially if you’re
is quite simple. Each cabinet is essentially a plywood not an experienced cabinetmaker. When designing
box with an angled top. The boxes fit side by side in your project, you can increase the storage space by
the understairs area, flush with the wall surfaces. The deepening the shelves and using them as storage
shelves in each unit incorporate birch 1 × 2 shelf edge to cubbies. If your staircase is bounded by another
improve their appearance and stiffen the shelf boards. interior wall, you can add a bookcase on the other
A birch face frame is wrapped around the perimeter side, with the two bookcases sharing a divided panel
of the project, concealing the plywood edges. The or wall.
A rich formal bookcase inhabits the previously wasted space underneath a staircase. The books are protected by birch doorsProof 1
with Plexiglas panels that have a soft, contemporary design feeling.
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Tools & Materials
Tools Materials
Work gloves 2 × 4 lumber Glazier’s points
Eye and ear protection Plywood stock (¼", ¾") Latches
Respirator Wood glue Pulls
Stud finder Brads 1 × 2 hardwood
Level 150- or 220-grit sandpaper Shims
Pencil Desired finish Hinges
Utility knife or wallboard saw Pocket screws Stain, or other
Pry bar 6d finish nails finish materials
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Drill 1¼" drywall screws
Router (and rabbet bit) Coarse-thread drywall screws
Pilot bits Wood putty; frosted glass
Chisel Plexiglas
Large pipe clamps
Framing square
Tablesaw
Pneumatic brad nailer
HVLP sprayer (optional)
Unit 2
Hammer
Nail set
Clear panel
Unit 1 inserts
Face frame Doorframes
Proof 1
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■ HOW TO BU I L D T H E U N DE R STA I R S BOOKC A SE
1 2
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Lay out the planned project on the walls. Be sure to Cut and remove the wall covering with electrical service.
identify and label all stud locations as well as any wiring, First shut off electricity at the main service panel. To minimize
plumbing or ductwork in the project area. Try to plan the dust, use a utility knife or wallboard saw to cut the wall
opening in the wall so it will be bordered by existing studs, and covering along the cutting lines. Pry off the wall covering,
with the wall covering cut up to the studs but not beyond. taking care not to damage surrounding walls surfaces.
3 4
Install 2 × 4 sleepers on the floor after you’ve thoroughly Rip plywood stock into strips for making the cabinet frame
cleaned up the project area and disposed of all debris properly. and shelves. We used ¾" birch-veneer plywood to match the
Sleepers should butt against the wall’s sole plate and run back birch that is used for the face frame and doorframes. The
in a perpendicular fashion slightly farther than the planned cabinet frame pieces are ripped to 12" wide but the shelves
project depth. Install a sleeper at the end of the project area, should be only 11¼" wide to allow for the ¾"-thick shelf edgeProof 1
beneath the midpoint, and at 16" intervals. strips. Cut all parts to length.
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5 6
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Assemble the unit frames with wood glue and coarse- Install shelf boards in the cabinet frame. The shelves
thread drywall screws driven through the outer faces and into should be flush with the back edges of the frame, leaving a
the edges of the mating boards. Drill countersunk pilot holes ¾" reveal in the front. Draw shelf layout lines on both faces
for the screws. Work on a flat surface and check the joint with of the frame pieces so you can center the screws. Install the
a framing square to make sure they are square. If you have full-width shelves first. Assemble the shorter shelves and their
large pipe clamps, use them to clamp the workpieces before divider supports into L shapes, and then install them as a unit.
driving the screws. Make both the Unit 1 and Unit 2 frames Cut back panels from ¼" plywood and attach them with brads.
(tops, sides, and bottom panels).
7 8
Attach hardwood shelf edge to the shelves and the Apply a finish to the cabinet units. Sand all wood surfaces
divider support edges. The tops of the 1 × 2 edge boards with 150- or 220-grit sand paper, wipe down with mineral
should be flush with the top surfaces of the shelves. The spirits, and then apply two to three light coats of water-based
vertical edging pieces should be flush with the outside edges polyurethane. We used an HVLP sprayer to apply the finish,
of the dividers. but wipe-on polyurethane works just fine if you don’t have
Proof 1
spraying equipment.
(continued)
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CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Install the first unit in the project opening. The front edges Install the second unit in the project opening, shimming as
should be flush with the room-side surface of the wall. Check needed to make sure it is level and the top panel continues
with a level and shim between the frames and sleepers as in alignment with the top of the first unit. Before securing the
needed. Attach by driving 6d finish nails through the base panels to the sleepers and stud, drive 1¼" drywall screws to
panel and into the sleepers and also through the side panel join the units’ side panels at each corner where they meet.
and into the wall stud. Countersink the pilot holes and cover with tinted wood putty.
Attach the other side panel to the wall stud and nail the
bottom panel to the sleepers with 6d finish nails.
11 12
Make the face frame. It’s possible to cut the pieces of the Attach the face frame to the cabinet frame edges with
face frame and nail them individually to the cabinet units, but brads or pneumatic finish nails. Use plenty of nails, since the
you’ll get more professional-looking results with cleaner joints if face frame will support the swinging door hinges. Set all nail
you assemble the face frame, finish it, and then attach it to the heads and conceal with tinted wood putty.
cabinet as one piece. We used pocket screws to make the joints,
but you can use dowels or biscuits instead. Apply a finish.Proof 1
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13 14
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Make the doorframes. The frames will look best with Cut rabbet recesses for the door panel inserts. Use a piloted
the vertical stiles running full height and capturing the rails rabbet bit and router. The rabbets should be 3⁄8" deep and ½"
between them. As you work, lay each completed frame on a wide. Make the cuts in multiple passes of increasing depth—
flat surface next to the previous one and make sure the line don’t try to remove all the material in a single pass. Once all
formed by the top rails follows the same angle as the top face rabbets have been cut around the perimeter of each doorframe
frame rails. The joint options are the same for the doorframes back, square off the corners of the cuts with a sharp wood
as for the face frames (we again used pocket screws). Make chisel. Note: In most cases, to create clearance you will need to
sure to leave at least 1" of clear stock on each corner so the cut a ½" chamfer on the top inside edge of the two doorframes
router won’t cut into any fasteners when cutting rabbets. where the hinges are on the side with the point.
15 16
Install the door panels. You can use frosted glass (tempered Hang the doors and attach latches and pulls. Take great care
is best), ¼" plywood, or Plexiglas. We used Plexiglas because of when hanging the cabinet doors to make sure that the line
the risk of breakage. It is possible to cut both glass and Plexiglas created by the door tops is straight and parallel to the face
to size yourself, but given the high cost of materials and relatively frame, with a consistent reveal. Orient the cabinet door pairs so
low cost of custom cutting, you’ll be glad you chose to have the they close together in the center of each unit. Attach the door
pieces cut to size at the store. Panels should be about ¼" smaller pulls roughly midway up each cabinet door. Add latches or
than the opening (including the rabbet widths) in each direction. catches so doors will stay closed. Note: You may need to bevel
Use glazier’s points to secure the panels. the inside faces of the frames on the hinge side.
Proof 1
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BA SE M E N T STA I RWAY SH E LV I NG
I n many homes, the basement stairs offer two easy
options for convenient and out-of-the-way storage.
One utilizes the stud cavities along the stairwell
course, the stairwell wall must be unfinished on one
side for this type of shelving. If the stairwell wall isn’t an
option, perhaps you have an open wall in the basement
wall. The other occupies that large yet awkward or garage—any wall with exposed framing will work.
triangular area underneath the staircase. In both Utility shelves for the understairs space are
places, a simple lumber shelving system lets you take made with a 2 × 4 support frame and plywood shelf
advantage of underused space without sacrificing surfaces. The stair structure itself provides support
valuable square footage. at one end of the shelves. Like the stud-wall shelves,
Adding shelves along a stairwell wall couldn’t be you can set the understairs shelving at any height or
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
simpler. All it requires is notching a 2 × 6 shelf board to spacing that you like. In the project shown on pages
fit over the wall studs, then screwing the shelf in place. 160 to 161, the shelf system includes a low bottom
This gives you a 5½-inch-deep shelf space between the shelf that’s built with extra supports, good for keeping
studs, plus a 2-inch-deep lip in front of each stud. Of heavy items off of the basement floor.
Shelves along an open stairwell wall (left photo) can accommodate loads of smaller items. If your basement door is near the
kitchen, these shelves are great for backup pantry storage. Shelves underneath the staircase (right photo) are ideal for basement
workshop storage and for long pieces of lumber and other materials.
Tools & Materials ▸
For Stairway Shelves: For Understairs Shelves:
Work gloves Circular saw Work gloves 2 × 4 standard lumber
Eye and ear protection Mallet Eye and ear protection (for shelf supports)
Level Circular saw 2½" deck screws or
Handsaw Level coarse-thread wood
Square Drill with bits screws
Wood chisel Tape measure ¾" AC (paint-grade on
Drill with countersink bit 2 × 4 pressure-treated one side) plywood
2 × 6 lumber lumber (for posts and 2" coarse-thread drywall
3½" deck screws struts) screwsProof 1
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■ HOW TO BU I L D STA I RWAY WA L L SH E LV E S
1 2
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Mark the desired height for each shelf, then use a level to Measure along each level line and cut the 2 × 6 shelf stock
transfer the mark across the front edge of each stud. Measure to length. Hold each shelf in place on its lines and mark the
from your level lines to mark the location of the next shelf up side edges of each stud for the notches. Tip: If a stud is out of
or down. The lines will represent the top face of the shelves. square to the wall plane, make the notch big enough so the
shelf will fit straight on.
3 4
Use a square to mark the notch depths at 3½". Make Position each shelf on its lines and make sure the shelf is
notch marks on both sides of the shelf. Cut the sides of the level from front to back. Drill a pilot hole at the center of each
notches with a handsaw. Complete the notches by chiseling stud location using a countersink bit. Fasten the shelf to each
straight down from both sides of the board along the seat, or stud with a 3½" deck screw.
Proof 1
base, of the notch marks.
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■ HOW TO BU I L D U N DE R STA I R S BA SE M E N T SH E LV E S
1 2
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Mark the locations of the two 2 × 4 posts onto the floor. Cut the post ends with a circular saw or power miter saw.
The posts must be equidistant from the bottom end of the Set each post on its floor mark and fasten the top end to the
staircase. Cut each post a little longer than needed. Position bottom edge of the stair stringer with three 2½" deck screws
the post plumb next to the floor mark, and trace along the stair or wood screws driven through pilot holes.
stringer to mark the angled top cut for the post.
3 4
Mark the desired location of each shelf onto the stair For each shelf, measure and cut two 2 × 4 side supports to
stringers. Use a level—and a long, straight board as needed— span from the outside edges of the posts to the back sides of
to transfer the height marks to the inside faces of the posts. the steps (or as far as practical). Also cut one 2 × 4 end support
to span between the outside faces of the posts.Proof 1
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5
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Fasten the side supports to the posts and stair stringers Option: For long shelves that will hold heavy items, add
with four 2½" screws at each end. Fasten the end supports to midspan supports between the side supports. Reinforce a
the outside edges of the posts with two screws at each end. bottom shelf with 2 × 4 struts cut to fit between the side
The end supports should be flush with the top edges of the supports and the floor. Note: Very heavy items should go on a
side supports, with their ends flush with the outside faces of reinforced bottom shelf, since stair structures aren’t designed
the posts. for significant extra weight loads.
6
Cut the shelf panels to fit from ¾" plywood. The edges Variation: If your staircase has a center stringer, notch the
of the panels should be flush with the outside face of the side plywood shelf panels to fit around the stringer. Cut the sides
and end supports. Fasten the panels to the supports with 2" of the notches with a circular saw or handsaw, and then make
drywall screws. the seat cuts with a chisel to complete the notches.
Proof 1
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BA SE M E N T STOR AG E WA L L
S torage space in a basement can be a mixed
blessing. On one hand, there’s usually plenty
of room in a basement, and you can stash all kinds
out dust and critters, while the 2 × 4 base of the unit
protects stuff on the bottom shelves from a damp floor
or even minor flooding. As shown here, the cabinets
of stuff down there, out of view from your living are just under 24 inches deep, but you can make
areas. On the other hand, basements tend to be them any size you need. You can also reconfigure the
dusty, sometimes damp, and often a good home for shelves, doors, and cabinet dimensions to fit your
insects and other critters, so you have to be careful space and your stuff.
what you store, especially if it’s going to be there How much you put into the look of the storage
for awhile. Finished basements are more hospitable wall is up to you. For a nicely finished basement,
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
environments; however, most finishing projects you’ll probably want to use cabinet-grade, hardwood-
leave little room for general storage, and things ends veneer plywood or medium-density fiberboard
up getting crammed next to the hot water heater. (MDF) for all of the cabinet parts and the doors.
Here’s a storage solution that makes any basement Covering the side gaps and the base and top frames
a great place for storage, whether the space is finished, with matching ¼-inch plywood completes the
unfinished, or something in between. In essence, finished, built-in look. For an unfinished basement,
this project is a floor-to-ceiling wall of simple wood you can simplify the project and save money by
cabinets with plywood doors. The doors help keep using paint-grade plywood.
The storage wall looks best when
it runs from corner to corner in a
basement room or alcove. But because
it’s anchored at top and bottom, it can
also go next to a wall on only one side
or be “freestanding” with open space
on both sides.Proof 1
16 2 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Tools & Materials
Tools Pneumatic brad nailer
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection Materials
Chalk line 2 × 4 pressure-treated lumber (for base frame)
Tape measure 2 × 4 standard lumber (for top frame)
Plumb bob 16d galvanized common nails
Circular saw and straightedge guide or tablesaw Tapered cedar shims
Level Construction adhesive
Caulk gun Plywood (¼", ½", ¾")
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Drill with bits and drill guide (or use drill press) Veneer edge tape (optional)
Depth stop Pegboard with ¼" holes
Clothes iron Coarse-thread drywall screws (1¼" and 2")
Sand paper 2½" galvanized deck screws
Ladder 1 × 2 lumber
Hammer Wood glue
Clamps 1" brads
Portable drill guide Door handles or pulls
Shelf pins
European-style (cup) hinges
Finishing materials
Face frame
Ledger
Divider panels
Slab To plan the dimensions
doors of your storage wall, first
determine the overall width
of the completed unit. If the
Shelves unit will fit between two side
walls, plan for a small space
(1½ to 2" or so) at either
side. This can be covered
with ¼" plywood trim pieces.
Each cabinet can be sized
according to what it will hold,
but keep in mind that the
door dimensions are based
on the cabinet width and
the placement of the fixed
shelves. As shown in the
following steps, the storage
wall has doors of equal width
throughout, and the cabinets
are 24¼" deep.
Proof 1
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■ HOW TO BU I L D A BA SE M E N T STOR AG E WA L L
1 2
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Mark the location of the base frame onto the floor. Measure out 24¼" from the Use a plumb bob to transfer the chalk
back wall and make a mark at each end of the project area. Snap a chalk line between line location from the floor to the joists
the marks. Note: When the cabinets are installed (step 12), they will overhang the front above, snap a chalk line across the joists.
edges of the frames by ½" and be ½" from the back wall. If the joists run parallel to the back wall,
you may need to install 2 × 4 blocking
between joists to support the top frame.
3 4
Build the base and top frames with 2 × 4 lumber and 16d Install the frames with their front edges on the chalk lines.
galvanized nails, adding crosspieces spaced 24" on center. Use Use cedar shims as needed so the frames are perfectly level in
pressure-treated lumber for the base frame. Make the frames both directions. Secure the base frame to a concrete floor with
23¾" wide (or ½" narrower than the cabinet depth) and their construction adhesive. Fasten the top frame to the joists with
length equal to the total cabinet width. nails or screws.Proof 1
16 4 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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5 6
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Measure between the top and base frames to find the Cut the top and bottom cabinet panels and the fixed
cabinet height. Tip: Leave yourself 1⁄8" or so of wiggle room for shelves at 23¾" deep, with the length equal to the overall
getting the cabinets into place. Cut the cabinet side panels cabinet width minus 1½". Cut the adjustable shelves to
from ¾" plywood at 23¾" wide × the overall cabinet height. the same dimensions minus 1⁄8" in both directions. Cut
Use a tablesaw or a circular saw and edge guide to ensure the back panel from ½" plywood, equal to the overall
straight cuts. cabinet dimensions.
7 8
For the cabinet(s) with adjustable shelves, drill a row of Mark the fixed shelf locations onto the inside faces of the
shelf-peg holes 2" from the front and back edges of the side cabinet sides. The fixed shelves should be centered at any
panels using a template cut from ¼" pegboard. Make the holes place where two horizontal door edges meet. Drill countersunk
5
⁄8" deep using a depth stop on the drill bit. Orient the template pilot holes through the outside faces of the side panels; the
carefully so the holes are even from side to side. holes should meet with the centers of the top and bottom
panels and the fixed shelves.
Proof 1
(continued)
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9 10
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Assemble each cabinet box with glue and 2" screws, For cabinets over 30" wide, build double-layer fixed shelves
starting with the side, top, and bottom panels and the fixed with glue and 1¼" screws driven up through the bottom layer.
shelves. Before the glue sets up, attach the back panel with This construction adds strength for the long span. Support the
glue and 1¼" screws. Align the edges of the box with the back shelves with 1 × 2 cleats glued and screwed to the side and
panel as you work to ensure the box is square. back panels. Also screw through the side and back panels into
the shelf edges.
11 12
If desired, cover the front edges of the cabinet boxes Set each cabinet in place so its front edges overhang the
with iron-on veneer edge tape that matches the plywood base and top frames by ½". Align the side edges of adjacent
veneer. Slightly roundover the edges of the applied tape with cabinets and fasten them together with 1¼" screws. Anchor
sandpaper. Finish all exposed cabinet surfaces as desired, and the cabinets to the base and top frames with 2½" screws using
apply at least a good seal coat to hidden surfaces to protect shims to fill any gaps between the top frame and the top of
against moisture. the cabinets.Proof 1
16 6 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Text SLC Page:166
13 14
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Cut the door panels to size from the same plywood used Drill holes for the cabinet hinges. Use a Forstner bit and drill
for the cabinet boxes. The doors should overlap the side and with a drill guide (or a drill press) to make the hinge-cup holes.
top/bottom cabinet panels by 5⁄8" and overlap any fixed shelf Follow the hinge manufacturer’s specifications for hole sizes and
by 5⁄16" (or stop 1⁄16" back from the center of doubled shelves). placement. Tip: You can buy a kit that includes the cup-hole bit
Apply veneer edge tape and finish the doors as desired. and a template for marking the hinge holes (inset photo).
15 16
Mount the doors to the cabinet side panels following the Option: Cut strips of ¼" veneer plywood to fit the gaps along
manufacturer’s directions. Adjust the hinges as needed so all the top, bottom, and sides of the cabinets. Install 1 × 2
gaps are even and the doors close properly. Install handles or or 2 × 2 backing along the sides, ½" from the cabinets’
pulls onto the doors. Add the adjustable shelves. front edges. Fasten the trim to the base/top frames and the
backing with 1" brads.
Proof 1
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C USTOM L AU N DRY C E N T E R
M any laundry rooms—or set-aside laundry areas in
larger rooms—lack two vitally important features:
organization and lighting. This laundry center answers
Tools ▸
both needs in style. This is a self-contained built- Tape measure Hammer or
in that functions like a room within a room, adding Level pneumatic nailer
both storage space and task lighting for what can Pencil Jigsaw
otherwise be a disagreeable task. It is built from a base Square Circular saw
cabinet and butcher block countertop on one side of a Power drill and bits Miter saw
24-inch-wide, 7-foot-tall stub wall, and a bank of wall Powder-actuated Eye and ear
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
cabinets on the other side of the wall. The cabinets nailer protection
are designed to fit above a washer and dryer combo, Work gloves
although you may need to adjust the measurements to
accommodate your particular washer and dryer.
The structure includes a ceiling with light fixtures ceiling, are clad with easy-to-wash tileboard that adds
mounted over both sides, and a switch wired into brightness while contrasting with the maple wood of
the stub wall to control the lights. The walls are built the cabinets. The edges of the center are trimmed
from inexpensive wall sheathing and, along with the with clear maple.
This sharp cabinet configuration not only helps you get your laundry room in order, but it also adds a good deal of style andProof 1
practical lighting.
16 8 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Materials & Cutting List
E
G G
G
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
G
A
Tileboard
K
F
I
I
J
B
H
D
Tileboard
A
C
(1) 4 × 8 × ½ plywood or OSB (wall sheathing) Part No. Desc. Size Material
(1) 4 × 8 × ¾ plywood or OSB (ceiling) A 2 Cap/sill plate 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 23¾" 2 × 4
(3) 4 × 8 sheets tileboard with an 8'. inside corner B 3 Stud 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 79" 2×4
strip and panel adhesive
C 1 Full wall ½ × 23¾ × 81¾" Sheathing
(3) Recessed canister light with trim kit
D 1 Wall cap ¾ × 51⁄2 × 79" Maple 1 × 6
(1) Clothes rod (24") with mounting hardware
1 × 2, 1 × 4 and 1 × 6 maple for trim E 1 Ceiling ¾ × 24 × 100"* Sheathing
32"-wide base cabinet F 2 Half wall ½ × 23¾ × 43" Sheathing
Butcher block countertop for base cabinet G 4 Top trim ¾ × 51⁄2 × cut to fit Maple 1 × 6
(2) 30" 2-door uppers
H 1 Base cabinet 341⁄2" h × 36" w Stock cabinet
Electrical box, switch, 14/2 romex, switch plate
I 2 Wall cabinets 12 × 30 × 30" Stock cabinets
End panel for upper cabinets (if unfinished)
Panel adhesive J 1 Countertop 11⁄2 × 25 × 36 Countertop
Drywall or deck screws K 1 Trim ¾ × 1½ × 43" 1×2
Nails *Can be pieced together from two boards
Proof 1 2 T
(4) 1½ × 3½ × 96 pine joined above A
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■ HOW TO BU I L D A L AU N DRY C E N T E R
1 2
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Attach the base plate for the stub wall perpendicular to After toenailing the studs to the base plate (and
the wall, allowing space between the stub wall and the corner facenailing the stud next to the wall if possible), attach the cap
for your base cabinet. Use pressure-treated wood if your plate, making sure the studs are vertical.
laundry is in the basement and use pressure-treated lumber
for the base plate and attach it by driving concrete nails with a
powder-actuated nailer for a concrete floor.
3 4
Run cable and install boxes for the light fixtures. Hire Install the base cabinet between the stub wall and the
an electrician to do this if you are not experienced with home corner, making sure it is level and securely attached to at least
wiring. Note: You may need to apply for a permit and have your one wall.
wiring inspected.Proof 1
170 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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5 6 Stud location
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Attach the countertop material (butcher block was used Cut a piece of wall sheathing that’s the same width as the
here). The countertop should be flush against both walls and it stub wall and reaches the same height when placed on the
should overhang the base cabinet slightly. countertop surface. Attach the sheathing to the side of the
countertop area. Insert a couple of furring strips between the
sheathing and the wall to create airspace.
7 8
Clad the stub wall on both sides with wall sheathing, Cut pieces of tileboard to cover the wall surfaces and
making sure to cut out accurately for the switch box. attach them with panel adhesive. Attach inside corner strips
The sheathing on the countertop side should rest on the cut to fit at the inside corners of the countertop area. Rub the
countertop. Slip shims underneath the wall sheathing on the tileboard aggressively with rags to help seat it.
Proof 1
washer and dryer side so it does not contact the floor.
(continued)
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9 10
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Mount the wall cabinets so they are level and their tops are It’s easiest to cut the ceiling board, attach tileboard, and
flush with the top of the stub wall and they butt up against the mount light fixtures before you attach the ceiling assembly to
stub wall. Drive screws through the mounting strips and into the stub wall and cabinets. Cut the ceiling board to size and
the wall at stud locations or into ledgers. shape from a piece of sheathing.
11 12
Mount the hardware and box for the light fixture to the Set the ceiling panel over the laundry center and attach
ceiling panel before you install the ceiling. it with nails or screws driven into the top plate of the stub wall
and the cabinet sides.Proof 1
17 2 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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13 14
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Be sure the power is turned off to the room. Make the Trim out the top of the structure with 1 × 4 hardwood to
wiring connections at the light fixtures and at the switch (inset). conceal the gap beneath the ceiling panel. Miter the outside
Consult an electrician as necessary. and inside corners as you install the trim. If you prefer, you can
use crown molding here.
15 16
Attach the vertical trim boards, butting them up against Install your washer and dryer (or have your appliance
the top trim and keeping the bottom slightly above the floor. dealer install them for you). Make sure to follow local codes for
Apply a finish and top coat to the trim boards as desired. water and drain supply and for venting your dryer.
Proof 1
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DOU BL E - BOW L VA N I T Y TOP
S ide-by-side double sinks are a wonderful addition
to bathrooms large enough to accommodate the
extra fixture. Often called “his-and-her” sinks, double
models, require new supply and drains. But a double
sink vanity like the one shown here can be added
simply by using dual-use hardware that splits the
sinks can be indispensable in a busy bathroom serving existing supply and drain lines.
a large household, or for a couple whose schedules put
them in the master bath at the same time each day.
The first issue to consider in adding a double sink
is available space. You need to maintain the minimum Tools & Materials ▸
required space around the sink, including 30 inches
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
of clear space in front of the sink (but no less than 21 Carpenter’s level Silicone caulk
inches) and 30 inches from the center of one sink to Screwdrivers Dual outlet valves
the center of the other. Any sink or vanity edge should Power drill Braided steel supply lines
be at least 4 inches from a side wall, and should not Basin wrench P-trap
impede door swing. Stud finder PVC connections
You’ll also want to decide how much plumbing Adjustable wrench Plumber’s putty
modification you’re willing to do. Side-by-side Hacksaw Eye and ear protection
standalone sinks, such as pedestals or wall-mounted
A double-bowl vanity is a useful fixture for accommodating multiple users during rush hour in your bathroom. Most home centers
stock a selection of double-bowl options, but for the best variety allow enough time for a custom order (usually 1 to 6 weeks).Proof 1
1 74 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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■ DOU BL E DR A I NS
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Double-bowl vanities are plumbed very similar to double-bowl kitchen sinks. In most cases, the drain tailpieces are connected
beneath one of the tailpieces at a continuous waste T. The drain line from the second bowl must slope downward toward the T.
From the T, the drain should have a trap (usually a P-trap) that connects to the trap arm coming out of the wall.
■ DR A I N I N F LOOR
Waste-T
Waste-T
Bottom
Top of S-trap Top of S-trap
Outlet
pipe
Floor drain stubout
Drain
If your drain stubout comes up out of the floor instead of Attach the other half of the S-trap to the stubout with
the wall, you’ll need an S-trap to tie into it instead of a P-trap. a slip fitting. This should result in the new fitting facing
Attach one half of the S-trap to the threaded bottom of the downward. Join the halves of the S-trap together with a slip
waste-T. nut, trimming the unthreaded end if necessary.
Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A DOU BL E SI N K & VA N I T Y
1 2
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Shut off the supply valves located under the sink. Remove the existing countertop and vanity. Turn off the
Disconnect and remove the supply lines connecting the faucet water supply at the main shut-off valve. Drain remaining water
to the valves. Loosen the P-trap nuts at both ends and remove by opening the faucet at the lowest point in the house. Use a
the P-trap. hacksaw to remove the existing undersink shut-off valves.
3 4
Slide the new dual-outlet valve Secure the new vanity in place by screwing it to the wall. Lay a bead of
onto the hot water supply line, pass the caulk along the underside and back edge of the countertop, where it will contact the
nut and compression washer over the vanity and wall. Set the countertop in place and check it for level. If your sinks are not
pipe, and tighten with a wrench. Install integral, install them according to the type of sink you’re using.
the dual-outlet valve on the cold water
supply line in the same way.Proof 1
1 76 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Text SLC Page:176
5 6 7
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Seat the faucets for the double Connect a new PVC P-trap to the Connect the linkage for the pop-up
sinks as you would for a single sink, undersink drain pipe, and attach a drain stopper. Connect the braided
by applying a bead of putty on the T-connector to the trap. Extend PVC steel cold water supply lines to the
underside of the bases (unless they connections to the drain assemblies of appropriate faucet tailpieces. Once
are to be used with gaskets instead both sinks. the lines are secure, repeat for the
of putty). Secure them in place by hot water supply lines. Check that all
tightening the locking nuts on the connections are tightened securely.
underside of the faucets.
8 Leak Finder ▸
To quickly and easily find an undersink leak, lay bright
white pieces of paper, or paper towels, under the
pipes and drain connections. Open the water supply
Turn on the main water supply and then turn on the
valves and run water in the sinks. It should be clear
water supply to the faucets. Remove the faucet aerators and
run water in the sinks to check the supply lines and drain exactly where the water dripped from by the location
connections for leaks. Tighten the connections if you find any, of any drips on the paper.
and replace the aerators.
Proof 1
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BU TC H E R BLOC K COU N T E R TOP S
B utcher block slabs come in a variety of woods
or—since they are made up of small pieces of
wood glued together—a combination of different
Tools & Materials ▸
woods. They’re available most commonly in maple Carpenter’s square Connector fittings
or oak in end grain, which is composed of vertical Forstner bit Carpenter’s square
pieces of wood, or edge grain and face grain, made Drill and bits Bolt connector hardware
up of long strips of wood. Making butcher block can Tape measure Circular saw with cutting guide
be accomplished as an advanced DIY project, but Clamps Router with piloted roundover bit
Sander Caulk gun and silicone adhesive
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
it’s often more cost-effective (and always faster) to
purchase pieces in stock sizes and cut them down Varnish Wood screws with fender washers
to fit your kitchen. Because butcher block is ideal Scrap wood Jigsaw with downstroke blade
for food prep areas but can be impractical near a Tape Brush and finish material
sink or stove, another option is to install a small Silicone adhesive Faucet and sink
section of butcher block in combination with other Finish materials Eye and ear protection
countertop materials.
Butcher block countertops
enjoy continued popularity
because of their natural
beauty and warm wood tones.Proof 1
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Text SLC Page:178
Tip ▸
Butcher block sold by the foot for countertop ranges durable, knife-friendly cutting surface. For economy, many
from 1½ to 3" thick, although some end-grain products, of today’s butcher block sections are edge-glued with
used mostly for chopping blocks, can be up to 5" thick. exposed edge grain or face grain.
For residential kitchens, the 1½"-thick material is the
most available and most affordable choice. Stock length
varies, but 6' and 12' slabs are common. You can also
order the material with sink cutouts completed. Premade
countertop is sold in the standard 25" depth, but wider
versions (30" and 36") for islands are not difficult to find.
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Butcher-block countertop material comes presealed, but
a finish of varnish or oil, such as mineral or tung oil, is
recommended. Seal cut wood around sink cutouts and on
trimmed edges to keep it watertight.
A self-rimming sink is the easiest type to mount in a
butcher block countertop, but undermount types can look
stunning (just make sure to get a perfect seal on the end
grain around the sink cutout).
End grain vs. face grain: Traditionally, butcher block
countertop surfaces were made with square sections 25"
of wood (often maple) oriented with their end grain
1 1⁄ 2"
facing upward. This orientation creates a better, more
Typical countertop material is 1½" wide and 25" deep,
available in a number of lengths from 4' to 12' long.
End grain
Face grain
Butcher block that’s constructed with the end grain
oriented up is the most desirable, but it is relatively
hard to find and fairly expensive. Material with the
face grain or edge grain facing up is more common
and more affordable.
Edge grain
Proof 1
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■ HOW TO BU I L D A BU TC H E R BL OC K COU N T E R TOP
1 2
Sink
location
Dishwasher
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Before beginning installation, allow the butcher block to Measure your countertop area, adding 1" to the base
acclimate to your home’s moisture level for a couple of days. cabinet depth to allow for overhang. Using a circular saw, cut
Wood contracts and expands with moisture and humidity, so it the piece to size if needed. Butcher block with precut miter
may have warped or expanded during transport. Place it level corners and cutouts for kitchens is available, but if you’re
on the cabinet tops and let it sit until it’s settled. cutting the piece yourself, be sure to apply finish to each new
raw edge.
3 4 5
Point 3
Point 2
Point 1
Butcher block should be attached Drill pilot holes for screws at drilling Drill corresponding holes in the
using wood screws that allow for some points. Stick tape to the bit 1" from the cabinet base that are slotted or at least
movement. Mark three points in a line on point to create a depth stop. 3
⁄8" larger than the screws you are using.Proof 1 2 T
the underside of the countertop, spacing When driven with a washer under the
rows of drilling points at 12" intervals. screw head, screws will be able to move
slightly with the wood.
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Text GSC SLC Page:180
6 35mm Forstner bit
7
Bolt connectors
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Bolt driver bit
Tip: In most cases butcher block countertops are not mitered Make butt joints between countertop sections. Lay the
at the corners as some other countertop types are. Instead, two sections of countertop to be joined upside down on a flat
they are butted at the corners. You also may need to join worksurface in their correct orientation. Mark drilling points for
two in-line pieces with a butt joint. In both instances, use the connector holes. Drill the holes with a Forstner bit.
connector fittings.
8 9
With the countertop sections roughly in position on the From below, insert the connector bolt so the two heads
cabinets and flipped right-side up, apply a bead of silicone are flat in the holes and then tighten the bolt with the driver
adhesive near the top of one mating edge. bit (supplied with bolt hardware) to draw the two sections of
Proof 1
countertop together. Do not overtighten.
(continued)
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10 11
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Clamp a piece of scrap wood to the end of the countertop Pull the countertop section away from the wall a few
so the tops are flush. The scrap wood prevents the router inches and make a roundover cut along the front edges with a
bit from rounding over the corner when the edge of the piloted roundover bit.
countertop is profiled.
12 13
Attach the countertop to the cabinet mounting strips If installing a sink in your countertop, start by outlining
by driving screws up through the cabinet strips and into the the sink in the correct position as recommended in the
countertop. The screws should be ¼" shorter than the distance installation material from the sink manufacturer. Mount a
from the bottom of the mounting strips to the top of the downstroke blade into the jigsaw (inset), and drill a starter hole
countertop. Use 1" fender washers with the screws and snug just inside the sink outline. Make the cutout, taking care to stay
them up, but do not overtighten. Because of the counterbores just inside the cutting line. If you are installing an undermount
and the washers, the countertop will be able to move slightly sink, smooth the cuts up to the line with a power sander.Proof 1
as it expands and contracts.
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14
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Variation: If you’re installing an undermount sink, mark a Seal the edges of the sink opening with a varnish as
centerpoint for drilling a hole to accommodate the faucet body instructed by the butcher block manufacturer, or by coating it
following the recommendations of the faucet manufacturer. A generously with pure mineral oil or tung oil for a natural finish.
13⁄8"-dia. hole is fairly standard. Let sit for 15 minutes then wipe off the excess with a clean,
lint-free cloth. Let it dry for 48 hours. Repeat six times, letting it
dry thoroughly between coats.
15 16
Add the backsplash of your choice and caulk between the Install the faucet and sink and make the water supply and
new countertop and the backsplash area with silicone caulk. drain hookups.
Proof 1
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CONC R E T E COU N T E R TOP
C ast concrete countertops have many unique
characteristics. They are durable, heat resistant,
and relatively inexpensive (if you make them yourself).
homeowners. In addition to keeping the mess and dust
out of your living spaces, working in a garage or even
outdoors lets you cast the countertops with the finished
But most of all, they are highly attractive and a great surface face down in the form. This way, if you do a
fit in contemporary kitchens or bathrooms. careful job building the form, you can keep the grinding
A concrete countertop may be cast in place and polishing to a bare minimum. In some cases, you
or formed offsite and installed like a natural stone may even be able to simply remove the countertop from
countertop. Casting offsite makes more sense for most the form, flip it over, and install it essentially as is.
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Tools & Materials ▸
Tape measure Wire mesh Black or colored Bagged concrete mix
Pencil Pliers silicone caulk Paste wax
Circular saw Concrete mixer Grinding and polishing Work gloves and eye
Jigsaw 5-gal. buckets pads and ear protection
Power drill and right- Shovel Melamine-coated Dust mask
angle drill guide Wheelbarrow particleboard
Level Wooden float Concrete sealer If installing sink:
Carpenter’s square Angle grinder Coloring agent Knockout for faucet
Reciprocating saw Belt sander Compass Buffing bonnet
Aviation snips Automotive buffer No. 3 rebar Faucet set
2" coarse drywall Insulation board Tie wire Sink
screws Plastic sheeting Panel or silicone Polyurethane varnish
Deck screws (3, 3½") Rubber mallet adhesive
Building a custom concrete countertop like this is an easier project than you might think. All of the building materials and
techniques are covered in this project.Proof 1
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Planning a Concrete Countertop ▸
G
A
B E
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
H
F
C
I
L
J
K
D
The basic supplies needed to build your countertop form and cast the countertop include: (A) welded
wire mesh for reinforcement; (B) black or colored silicone caulk; (C) grinding and polishing pads; (D) melamine-coated
particleboard for constructing the form; (E) concrete sealer; (F) coloring agent (liquid or powder); (G) bagged concrete
countertop mix or high/early mix rated for 5,000 psi; (H) paste wax; (I) knockout for faucet, if installing sink; (J) buffing
bonnet for polisher; (K) faucet set; and (L) sink.
Custom Features: Concrete countertops are normally a countertop that will be 48" long × 24" deep × 3½" thick
cast as flat slabs, but if you are willing to put a little will require 21⁄3 cu. ft. of mixed concrete (48 × 24 × 3.5 /
more time and effort into it, there are many additional 1,728 = 21⁄3) or four 80-lb. bags of countertop mix.
features you can create during the pour. A typical 3"-tall
backsplash is challenging, but if you have room behind
the faucet you can create a ¾"-tall backsplash shelf in
the backsplash area. Or, if you search around for some
additional information, you can learn how to cast a drain
board directly into the countertop surface. And there is
practically no end to the decorative touches you can apply
using pigments and inserts.
Estimating Concrete for Countertops: After you
design your project and determine the actual dimensions,
you’ll need to estimate the amount of concrete you’ll
need. Concrete is measured by volume, in cubic feet;
Countertop mix is specially formulated concrete
multiply the length by the width and then by the thickness designed for use in either precast or cast-in-place
of the finished countertop for volume in cubic inches, projects. Countertop mix contains additives that improve
then divide the sum by 1,728 for cubic feet. For example, the workability, strength, and finish of the mix.
Proof 1
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■ HOW TO CA ST A CONC R E T E COU N T E R TOP
1 2
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Cut 1½"-wide strips of ¾" melamine-coated particleboard Use a power drill mounted in a right-angle drill guide to drill
for the form sides. Cut the strips to length (26 and 81½" as ¼"-dia. guide holes for 3" deck screws at 6" intervals all the
shown here) and drill two countersunk pilot holes 3⁄8" in from way through the tops of the form sides. Countersink the holes
the ends of the front and back form sides. Assemble the strips so the screw heads will be recessed slightly below the surface.
into a frame by driving a 2" drywall screw at each pilot hole
and into the mating ends of the end form strips.
3 4
With the base melamine-side up, center the melamine- Make the sink knockout blanks by stacking two pieces
strip frame pieces on the base. Check the corners with of ¾" melamine. The undermount sink we used requires a
a carpenter’s square to make sure they’re square. Drive 20 × 31" knockout with corners that are rounded at a 2" radius.
one 3½" deck screw per form side near the middle. The Cut two pieces of ¾"-thick MDF to 20 × 31" square using a
screwheads should be slightly below the top edges of the tablesaw. With a compass, mark 2"-radius curves at each
forms. Check for square again, and continue driving the corner for trimming. Make the trim cuts with a jigsaw. Cut just
3½" screws at 6" intervals through the pilot holes. Check for outside the trim line and sand up to it with a pad sander for a
square frequently. Note: Do not drive any screws up through smooth curve.
the underside of the form base—you won’t be able to lift the
countertop and access the screws when it’s time to strip off
the forms.Proof 1
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5 6
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Clamp the two pieces of melamine face-to-face for the Because gluing the faces together can add height to the
knockout and gang-sand the edges and corners so that they’re knockout (and cause the concrete finishing tools to bang into
smooth and even. Use a belt sander on a stationary table or an it when they ride on the form tops), attach each blank directly
oscillating spindle sander. Don’t oversand or the sink knockout to the layer below it using countersunk screws. Keep the edges
will be too small. aligned perfectly, especially if you’re planning to install an
undermount sink.
7
Faucet Knockouts Option: If your sink faucet will not be
mounted on the sink deck, you’ll need to add a knockout to
your form for the faucet hole (best to choose a single-handle
faucet), according to the requirements of the manufacturer.
You can order knockouts from a concrete countertop supplies
distributor, or you can create them with PVC pipe that has an
outside diameter equal to the required faucet hole size. To Seal exposed edges of the sink knockout with fast-drying
anchor the PVC knockout, cover one end with a flat cap made polyurethane varnish, and then caulk the form once the
for that size tubing. Drill a guide hole through the center of varnish is dry. Run a very thin bead of colored silicone caulk
the cap so you can secure it with a screw. The top of the cap (the coloring allows you to see where the caulk has been laid
should be exactly flush with the form sides once it is installed. on the white melamine) in all the seams and then smooth
Before securing, position the knockout next to a form side and carefully with your fingertip. In addition to keeping the wet
compare the heights. If the knockout is taller, file or sand the concrete from seeping into gaps in the form, the caulk will
uncapped end so their lengths match. create a slight roundover on the edges of the concrete. Caulk
around the bottoms of the knockouts as well.
Proof 1
(continued)
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8
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Variation: If your countertop is more than 2" thick, use No. 3 Cut a piece of welded wire (also called rewire) in a 4 × 4"
rebar (3⁄8" dia.) for the primary reinforcement. Do not use rebar grid so it’s 2" smaller than the interior form dimensions. Make
on thinner countertops because the rebar will be too close a cutout for the sink and faucet knockouts, making sure the
to the surface and can telegraph through. Bend the rebar to rewire does not come closer than 1" to any edge, surface,
fit around the perimeter of the form using a rebar or conduit or knockout. Flatten it as best you can and then hang it with
bender. The rebar needs to be at least 1" away from all edges wires that are attached to the tops of the forms with screws
(including knockouts) and 1" away from the top surface. Tie the (you’ll remove the screws and cut the wires after the concrete
ends of the rebar with wire and set it in the form on temporary is placed).
1" spacers.
9 10
Clamp or screw the base of the form to a sturdy Blend water with liquid cement color (if desired) in a
workbench or table so it can’t move during finishing and 5-gal. bucket prior to adding to the mixer.
curing. Check for level and insert shims between the worktop
and the benchtop if needed for leveling. If you’re concerned
about mess, slip a sheet of 3-mil plastic on the floor under
the workbench.Proof 1
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11 12
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Slowly pour concrete countertop Fill the countertop form, making sure to pack the concrete into corners and press
mix into the mixer and blend for a it through the reinforcement. Overfill the form slightly.
minimum of 5 minutes. Properly mixed
material will flow easily into molds. Add
small amounts of water as necessary to
achieve the desired consistency.
13 14
Vibrate the form vigorously as you work to settle concrete into all the voids. You Strike off excess concrete from the
can rent a concrete vibrator for this purpose, or simply strike the form repeatedly form using a 2 × 4 drawn along the
with a rubber mallet. If you have a helper and a sturdy floor and worktable, lift up and tops of the forms in a sawing motion. If
down on the ends of the table, bouncing it to cause vibrations. Make sure the table voids are created, pack them with fresh
remains level when you’re through. concrete and restrike. Do not overwork
the concrete.
Proof 1
(continued)
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15 16
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Snip the wire ties holding the rewire mesh once you are Smooth the surface of the concrete with a screed, such
certain you won’t need to vibrate the form any further. Embed as a length of angle iron or square metal tubing. Work slowly
the cut ends attached to the rewire below the concrete surface. with a sawing motion, allowing the bleed water to fill in behind
the screed. Since this surface will be the underside of the
countertop, no further tooling is required. Cover the concrete
with plastic and let dry undisturbed for three to five days.
17 18
Remove the plastic covering and remove the forms. Flip the countertop so the finished surface is exposed
Do not pry against the fresh concrete. In most cases, you’ll (you’ll need a helper or two). Be extremely careful. The best
need to cut apart the sink knockout to prevent damaging the technique is to roll the countertop onto an edge, position
countertop when removing it. Drill a starter hole and then several shock-absorbing sleepers beneath it (rigid insulation
carefully cut up to the edge of the knockout. Cut the knockout board works very well), and then gently lower the countertop
into chunks until you can remove it all. The edges of the onto the sleepers.
concrete will be fragile, so be very careful.Proof 1
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19 20
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Grind the countertop surface with a series of increasingly fine grinding pads Clean and seal the concrete with
mounted on a shock-protected 5" angle grinder (variable speed). This is messy work several coats of quality concrete sealer
and can require hours to get the desired result. Rinse the surface regularly with clean (one with penetrating and film-forming
water and make sure it stays wet during grinding. For a gleaming surface, mount still agents). For extra protection and a
finer pads (up to 1,500 grit) on the grinder and wet-polish. renewable finish, apply a coat of paste
wax after the last coat of sealer dries.
21 22
Mount the sink (if undermount). Sinks are easier to install Make sure the cabinet is adequately reinforced and that
prior to attaching the countertop on the cabinet. Attach the as much plumbing as possible has been done, and apply a
sink according to the manufacturer’s directions. Undermount thick bead of silicone adhesive to the tops of the cabinets and
sinks like this are installed with undermount clips and stretchers. With at least one helper, lower the countertop onto
silicone adhesive. Self-rimming sinks likely will require some the base and position it where you wish. Let the adhesive dry
modifications to the mounting hardware (or at least you’ll need overnight before completing the sink and faucet hookups.
to buy some extra-long screws) to accommodate the thickness
of the countertop.
Proof 1
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G R A N I T E T I L E COU N T E R TOP S
S olid granite countertops are hugely popular
today, and for good reason: they are stunningly
beautiful, amazingly hard and durable, and completely
ends. This creates a more uniform look. Granite tile
can be installed over laminate countertop (not post-
form) if you remove the nosing and backsplash first.
natural. However, they are also expensive and virtually The laminate substrate must be in good condition with
impossible for a do-it-yourselfer to install. Take heart no peeling or water damage.
though, there is a way for an enterprising DIYer to
achieve the look and feel of natural granite, but at a
fraction of the price: granite tile countertops.
You have two basic product options with granite Tools & Materials ▸
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
tile. You can use standard granite tiles, which consist
of field tiles and edge tiles with square edges that are 5
⁄8" exterior-grade plywood Utility knife
installed just like ceramic or porcelain tiles are, and ¼" tile backer or cementboard Straightedge
finished with thin edge tiles to create the nosing; or you Cementboard screws ¼" notched trowel
can use granite tiles that are installed with front tiles Tiles Modified thinset
that feature an integral bullnose that better imitates the Tile wet saw with Unsanded grout
look of solid granite. Typically, granite tiles fit together diamond blade Grout sealer
more snugly than ceramic tiles do. This gives you the Honing stone Stone sealer
option of finishing with grout that’s the same color as Power drill Sponge
the tiles for a near-seamless appearance. Circular saw Bucket
Layout is the most important step on any tile Jigsaw Rubber gloves
project, and no less so when working with granite tiles. Eye and ear protection Pry bar
If tiles need to be cut to fit, it is best to cut the tiles at Compass Carpeted mallet
the center of the installation or the sets of tiles at both
Granite tiles are installed
in much the same way
as ceramic tiles are, but
the ultra-narrow gaps and
matching grout mimic
the appearance of solid
polished granite.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L G R A N I T E T I L E COU N T E R TOP S
1 2
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Remove old countertops by unscrewing the countertops Measure the cabinet bank from outside edges to outside
from the cabinets. Unscrew the take-up bolts on mitered edges on all sides and cut a piece of 5⁄8"-thick exterior-grade
sections of the countertop. Use a utility knife to cut through plywood to fit. The edges of the plywood should be flush with
any caulk. The countertops should lift off easily; if they don’t, the outside edges of the cabinet tops. Screw the plywood to
use a pry bar to carefully pry them away from the base the cabinet braces from underneath.
cabinets. Note: In some cases you can install the tiles over old
laminate countertops.
3 4
Place the sink upside down in the desired location Granite tile, like ceramic tile, requires a cementboard or
and trace around it to mark the cutting lines. To create denseboard underlayment layer. Cut the material to the same
support for the drop-in sink flange, use a compass to trace dimension as the plywood subbase and lay the cementboard
new cutting lines inside the traced lines (usually 5⁄8"). See the over the plywood with the edges flush. From inside the sink
manufacturer’s instructions to confirm dimensions (some sinks base, trace around the sink cutout with a marker. Remove the
come with a template for making the cutout). Use a jigsaw to underlayment and make the cutout with a jigsaw.
cut out the sink opening.
Proof 1
(continued)
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5 6
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Apply a 1⁄8"-thick layer of modified thinset to the top of the Cut (as needed) and lay out the tiles, beginning with an
plywood using a ¼" notched trowel. Screw the cementboard to inside corner if you have one. Arrange tiles for the best color
the plywood with cementboard screws. Space the screws 4 to match. Tiles abut directly, with no space for grout. Cut the tiles
5" apart across the entire surface. as necessary to fit. Cut self-edged tiles edge side first. Cut
the tiles with the polished side up. Use a fine-honing stone to
relieve the cut edge to match the manufactured edges.
■ VA R I AT IONS FOR COR N E R S & A NG L E S
Mitered inside corners are a bit tricky to cut because the Kitchen islands often have corners that do not form a right
mitered point needs to align with the starting point of the angle. In such cases, you can avoid a sharp angle on the
bullnose edge. This has the effect of making the corner set countertop by cutting a triangular bullnose piece to fill in.
back roughly 1".Proof 1
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7 8
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Even though the flange of the sink shown here will Start laying tiles. Use modified thinset and a ¼" trowel. If
cover the inside corners in the sink cutout, take care to make you have an inside corner in your countertop, begin there.
a gentle rounded corner cut by drilling at the corner with a ½" Apply thinset at the inside corner, enough to place four or five
masonry bit. Perpendicular corner cuts can lead to cracking. tiles. Set the left and right inside corner pieces and the first
Finish the straight legs of the cutout with a tile saw or a jigsaw field tile.
with a masonry blade.
9 10
Continue setting tiles. Apply the thinset mortar to an area After the thinset has dried for at least 24 hours, grout
big enough for two to four tiles and place the tiles. Use a 2 × 4 with an unsanded grout. When the grout has dried, seal with
covered with carpeting to set the tiles. Push down on tiles to natural stone sealer.
set, and also across the edges to ensure an even face.
Proof 1
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BA NQU E T T E
A lmost everyone loves sitting in a booth at a
restaurant—why not have one at home? Aside
from providing an intimate, cozy setting for eating,
booth, carefully remove the base shoe or molding
along both walls using a pry bar. Using a stud finder,
mark the stud locations along both walls. Use masking
games, or homework, a banquette or booth solves a tape to mark the stud locations to avoid marking on
critical space issue. An L-shaped booth eliminates the the wall surface.
space needed to pull out chairs on two sides, plus, it
allows children to sit closer together. Three kids can
occupy booth space that is smaller than that required Tools & Materials ▸
for two kids on two chairs. This project can create even
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
more usable space if you add a roll-out storage unit Tape measure 2 × 4 lumber
under the booth seats. Stud finder 1 × 2 lumber
This project creates an L-shaped, built-in booth in Pry bar #8 screws
a kitchen corner. It does not show you how to redirect Circular saw (15⁄8", 2", 2½", 3")
air vents or electrical outlets. Make sure you take into Cordless screwdriver 1½" finish
account the thickness of cushion foam if you plan Carpenter’s square head screws
on upholstering the backs. The plans assume you’ll Level Finish nails
use 2-inch foam for seat cushions and back cushions. Bevel gauge Edge banding
Thicker cushions will make the bench too shallow. Compass Trim molding
Booth seating is most comfortable if the seats are 16 to Jigsaw Painter’s caulk
19 inches deep. The total height for the seat should be Hammer Wood putty
18 to 19 inches to fit a standard 29-inch-tall table. ¾" paintable interior Paint
This project is designed to be painted, but if you plywood Eye and ear protection
wish to match your wood kitchen cabinets, you can Masking tape Work gloves
use veneer plywood. Before beginning to build theProof 1
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■ HOW TO BU I L D A BA NQU E T T E
E E E E C Cutting List ▸
Key Part Size Material No.
FRAMING A Kickboard, long 15½" × 60" ¾" plywood 1
PLAN VIEW A
E
B Kickboard, short 15½" × 42" ¾" plywood 1
J
C Ledger, long 60" 2×4 1
LEFT END
E ELEVATION D Ledger, short 42" 2×4 1
K E Braces 16½" 2×4 8
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
E F Cleat, long 60" 2×2 1
I
D
G Cleat, short 42" 2×2 1
E
D H Seat, long 22" × 60" ¾" plywood 1
E
B I Seat, short 22" × 38"* ¾" plywood 1
18"
J Seat backs 60" × 24" ¾" plywood 2
LEFT SIDE J
ELEVATION K Seat cleats 60"* 1×2 2
J
L End pieces 20" × 40"* ¾" plywood 2
K
* cut to fit
E
E E H
E I
C
18"
A L
B G F
D
1 2
Cut the kickboards, ledgers, and braces to length. Cut the long cleat to length. Measure 18" out from the
Attach braces at each end of a ledger using two 2½" screws. wall and draw a line parallel to the wall. Align the cleat with
Evenly space the other braces and attach. Attach the the inside edge of the line and attach to the floor using
kickboard to the braces using 15⁄8" screws. Use a carpenter’s or 2½" screws.
Proof 1
combination square to make sure all joints are squared.
(continued)
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3 4
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Turn the brace and the kickboard assembly right side up Assemble the short bench and attach it to the studs and
and place against the wall and cleat. Check for level and make cleat following steps 1 through 3. Make sure the second bench
sure that the kickboard butts firmly against the cleat. Attach butts firmly against the first bench.
the ledger to the studs using two 3" screws per stud. Attach
the kickboard to the cleat using 15⁄8" screws.
5 6 7
Attach the long bench top using Lean one seat back against the wall Attach the cleat to the seat top,
15⁄8" screws. Center the screws over the so the bottom edge is 6" from the using 15⁄8" screws. Make sure the cleat is
braces and not the kickboard. Measure wall. Slide the long back cleat behind parallel to the wall. Apply edge banding
from the edge of the long bench to the the back and mark its location. Use to the top edge of the back. Replace the
outside edge of the brace for the exact a bevel gauge to determine the edge back and attach it to the cleat using 15⁄8"
length of the short bench. Cut and bevel for the back. Remove the back screws. Attach it to the wall studs using
attach the short bench top. and bevel the edge with a circular saw 2" screws.
or tablesaw.Proof 1
19 8 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Text SLC Page:198
8 9 10
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Lean the second back against the Place the end blanks against each Before attaching the ends, use a
wall with its base 6" from the wall. Slide end and trace the bench profile. Create sander to break the pointed bench
the short back cleat behind the back a rounded or angular bench end that ends. Apply wood glue to the ends of
and mark its location. Use a compass extends at least 1½" beyond the the bench backs, kickboard, and bench
to scribe the angle of the long back bench profile. This “lip” will prevent the tops. Attach the ends to the braces and
onto the short back. Cut along this mark cushions from slipping off the end. Cut bench using finish head screws every
using a circular saw. Attach the cleat the bench ends using a jigsaw. 6" to 8". Apply edge banding to the
and seat back as in step 7. bench ends.
11
End panel
cut out for
storage access
¾" MDF
Casters
Reuse cutout portion
of end panel as drawer cap
Attach the molding of your choice to the front edges Variation: A wheeled drawer can add some storage space to
of the bench with finish nails. Reattach the base molding if your banquette. Before attaching the bench end, cut out an
desired, or use trim molding to create panels, as pictured here. opening. Create a box with wheels and a drawer front to fit
Fill all screw holes with wood putty, and sand smooth. Run the opening.
a bead of painter’s caulk along the joint between the bench
top and back, the joint where the two bench backs meet, and
between the bench back and wall. Smooth with a wet finger.
Paint with a high-quality wood primer and satin, semigloss, or
gloss paint. Make cushions, if desired.
Proof 1
19 9CGHI_148-249_11984.indd 199 12/1/17 3:54 PM CGHI_148-249_11984.indd 199 Job: 11984 Title: #225388_Black & Decker Of Home Improvement (MBI) 12/1/17 3:51 PM Text SLC Page:199
R EC E S SE D CA BI N E T
I f you’ve got a recessed wall area that you’re not
sure how to use, then a built-in cabinet might be a
perfect fit. For example, the set-back space created
You can build a recessed cabinet with or without
doors. In the version seen here, glass panel doors
were built, but you can also use solid, natural wood
on one or both sides of a bumped-out fireplace is a veneer or painted plywood panels to conceal the
perfect spot to install a built-in bookshelf or cabinet. cabinet interior. It is important to purchase tempered
Building a recessed cabinet is very similar to building glass when you are building glass panel doors.
a freestanding cabinet. The key difference is that a Tempered glass is treated with heat so that if it is
recessed cabinet must fit perfectly between the side broken, it will shatter into small pieces that are less
walls. The easiest way to make a cabinet that will fit is to likely to cause serious cuts. It’s also stronger. You can’t
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
make a basic interior cabinet case that’s slightly smaller cut it yourself, so be sure to get the size correct when
than the available space and then build a face frame you order it cut-to-fit.
and top cover that will cover the edges of the cabinet Building this cabinet requires intermediate
and fit snuggly against the walls. The secret to achieving woodworking skills and a few woodworking
a perfect fit is to make the face frame and top slightly power tools, including a tablesaw, miter saw, and
oversized and then scribe them to fit against the walls. router table.
Tools & Materials ▸
Tablesaw (2) ¾ × 1½" × 8' cherry
Miter saw (2) ¾ × 2½" × 8'. cherry
Drill/driver (1) ¾ × 5 × 48" cherry
Pocket hole jig kit 2" flat-head wood screws
Finish or random-orbit sander 2½" flat-head wood screws
Eye and ear protection 3" drywall screws
Tape measure 1¼" fine thread washer-head (pocket) screws
Level 18-ga. × 2" brad nails
Compass (24) ¼"-dia. shelf pins
Finish materials 1" brads
Wood glue
Work gloves Doors (to make four roughly 11 × 46" doors):
(5) ¾ × 2" × 8' solid cherry
Doors: (1) ¾ × 4 × 30 solid cherry
Router table (4 pr.) non-mortise full-wrap hinges
Rail and stile router bit set (4) 1⁄8"-thick tempered glass panels
3
⁄8"-rad. rabbet bottom-bearing router bit (4) magnetic door catches
18-ga. × ¾" brad nails
Cabinet materials (to make one roughly
4'.‑wide × 4'.‑tall × 12"‑deep cabinet):
(2) 2 × 4 × 8' pine
(1) ¼ × 4 × 8 plain-sawn cherry veneer plywood
(1) ¾ × 4 × 8 plain-sawn cherry veneer plywoodProof 1 2 T
200 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Text GSC SLC Page:200
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Proof 1
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Cutting List
L
M
C
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
N
F
E
O
I
D
P
D
S
H
C
R
B
Q B
K A
H
J
A
B
Key No. Description Dimension Key No. Description Dimension
Cabinet K 1 Face frame center stile ¾ × 2¾ × 45¼"
A 2 Base rails 1½ × 3½ × 46" L 1 Top ¾ × 11¾ × 48"
B 3 Base cross pieces 1½ × 3½ × 8¼" M 1 Top front edge ¾ × 1¼ × 48"
C 2 Cabinet top and bottom ¾ × 11 × 43½" N 6 Shelf ¾ × 11 × 43¼"
D 2 Cabinet sides ¾ × 11 × 48" O 6 Shelf edge ¾ × 1 × 43¼"
E 1 Cabinet back ¼ × 45 × 48" P 4 Top rail ¾ × 1 5⁄ 8 × 6 5⁄ 8 "
F 1 Cabinet divider ¾ × 11 × 46½" Q 4 Bottom rail ¾ × 3 5⁄ 8 × 6 5⁄ 8 "
G 2 Back cleats (not shown) ¾ × 2½ × 43½" R 8 Stiles ¾ × 2 × 44½"
H 2 Face frame stiles ¾ × 2½ × 51½" S 16 Glass tack strips ¼ × ¼" × glass perimeter
I 1 Face frame top rail ¾ × 2½ × 43"
J 1 Face frame bottom rail ¾ × 4¼ × 43"Proof 1
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Text SLC Page:202
■ HOW TO BU I L D A R E C E S SE D C A BI N E T
DETERMINE THE CABINET DIMENSIONS by dividing the cabinet into multiple sections with
Perhaps the trickiest aspect of building a cabinet that vertical divider panels. If the space the cabinet is to be
must fit between two walls is calculating the part installed in is 32 inches or less, then you will not need
dimensions so the finished cabinet will fit the space a vertical divider. If the space is 32 to 60 inches wide,
you have. The first step is to measure the width of the then you need at least one vertical divider in the center
space. Walls are seldom plumb, so you must measure of the cabinet. Install additional vertical dividers if you
the width at several heights above the floor (photo 1). plan to store heavy objects on the shelves.
Record the smallest measurement (the narrowest
width) and use that dimension to make adjustments MAKE THE BASE
to the cutting list (unless your space happens to be Cut the base frame parts to length and assemble the
48 inches wide—the width of the cabinet seen here). base with 2½-inch wood screws. Center the base
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Limit the shelf lengths to no more than 30 inches between the side walls and against the back wall.
long—any span larger than that and they are likely to Level the base with shims and then secure it to the
sag and break. Shorten shelf lengths in a wide cabinet back wall (photo 2).
Measure the width of the space where
1 the cabinet will be installed. Measure at
several heights above the floor and at the
front and back of the space. Record and
use the smallest measurement.
Level the base with shims and then
2 attach it to the back wall. Drive 3" drywall
screws through the back base rail and into
the wall studs. Trim off any exposed shims
flush with the front edge of the base.
Proof 1
(continued)
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MAKE THE CABINET FRAME
Cut the cabinet sides, dividers, top, and bottom to
size. Bore the shelf-pin holes in the side panels. You
3
can use a manufactured shelf pin jig or use a piece of
pegboard as a template to align the holes. Then, cut
the back cleats to length. Sand the faces of each part
smooth with 150-grit sandpaper. Attach the sides to
the top and bottom with 2-inch wood screws. Bore
pilot holes before driving screws into plywood edges.
Attach the back cleats to the sides and top with
2-inch wood screws. Next, cut a notch to fit around
the back cleat in the top of each divider panel. Attach
the dividers to the top and bottom with 2-inch screws
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
(photo 3). Cut the back panel to size and attach the
back panel to the cabinet frame with glue and brad
nails or crown staples (photo 4).
Place the cabinet frame on the base. Center the
cabinet on the base and align the front edge of
the cabinet with the front edge of the base. Attach the
cabinet to the base with 2-inch brad nails. Place shims
behind the cabinet at each stud location to fill the gap
Attach the divider panels to the top and bottom with 2"
between the cabinet and wall. Attach the cabinet to the screws. Use a square to make sure the divider is perpendicular
back wall and side walls by driving a screw through the to the top and bottom. Bore a pilot hole and countersink hole
back cleat and side panels into the wall studs (photo 5). for each screw. Drive the screws through the top and bottom.
4 5
Attach the back panel with glue and 1" brads or 1" narrow Attach the cabinet to the wall. Bore a pilot and
crown staples. Keep the cabinet sides, top, and bottom countersink hole through the back cleat and side panels at
perpendicular as you attach the back panel. each stud location. Place scrap blocks or shims behind each
screw hole to fill the gap between the wall and cabinet. Secure
the cabinet with 3" drywall screws.Proof 1
204 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Text SLC Page:204
MAKE THE FACE FRAME & TOP
6 The face frame and top are made to fit exactly
between the walls and will cover the gaps that
were left between the cabinet and walls. Cut the
face frame stiles and rails to size. Temporarily
hold or attach the face frame rails in place against
the cabinet frame. Then hold one of the stiles
perpendicular to the rails and against the side wall.
Scribe the wall profile on the outside edge of the
stile (photo 6 and 7). Follow the same process to
scribe the other stile. Trim the stiles along the
scribe lines. Test the fit of the stiles and trim or
sand as necessary to fit. The stiles should fit snugly
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
between the walls and rails. Next, lay out the face
frame parts on a flat surface and assemble the frame
with pocket screws (photo 8). Sand the face
frame smooth.
Temporarily attach the rails to the cabinet with tape. Then,
Attach the face frame to the cabinet frame
scribe the stiles to follow the profile of the wall. Hold the stile
perpendicular to the rails and against the side wall. Set a with glue and a few 18-gauge × 1¼-inch brads. You
compass opening to match the distance that the stile overlaps only need a couple of brads in each piece to hold it
the ends of the rails. securely while the glue cures.
7 8
Hold the metal point of the compass Assemble the cabinet face frame with pocket screws. Clamp the parts to a large
against the wall and pull the compass worksurface to keep them perpendicular as they are connected.
down along the wall to trace the profile
of the wall onto the face of the stile. The
stile must remain perpendicular to the
rails as you draw the scribe line.
Proof 1
(continued)
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The top must fit against three walls. If the walls Protect the surrounding wall surfaces with
are perpendicular, then you can simply measure the masking tape and drop cloths. Apply wood finish or
width of the opening and cut the top panel. But, if paint to the cabinet and shelves. In this case dark
the walls are not perfectly square to one another, brown oil-base gel stain was applied, followed by three
the easiest way to make a top that fits is to create a coats of water-base polyurethane. After the finish is
template (photo 9). Transfer the template dimensions dry, attach base molding to match the existing base
and cut the top panel. molding in the room.
Cut the top front edge piece the same length as
the front edge of the top panel. Attach the top front BUILD THE DOORS
edge to the top with glue. Clamp the front edge until The first step in building doors is to determine the
the glue has cured. Remove the clamps, sand the top size of the doors. To prevent sagging, the maximum
assembly and attach the top to the cabinet (photo 10). width of each door should be less than 24 inches If
Cut the shelf boards and shelf edge to size. Attach the cabinet opening is greater than 24 inches wide,
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
the shelf edge to the shelf board, aligning the top then use two doors.
edges, with glue. Clean off excess glue and sand the The bottom rail is wider than the top rail for
shelves smooth. two reasons. First, a wider bottom rail gives the door
Tape together pieces of paper or
9 cardboard to make a template for the top.
Leave a 1⁄8" space between the template
and the walls. Then, trace the template on
the top panel stock and cut out the top.
Attach the top to the cabinet with
10 1¼" screws. Drive the screws through
the underside of the cabinet top panel
and into the finished top. Use one screw
in each corner and two screws evenly
spaced near the front and back of
the cabinet.Proof 1
206 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Text SLC Page:206
This router bit set cuts a 3⁄8"–long stub
11 tenon. The extra ¾" necessary for the two
stub tenons must be added to the length
of the rails. Rout the stub tenons on the
ends of the rails. Set the router bit height
so the top cutter will mill a 1⁄8"-deep rabbet
above the stub tenon.
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Guard lifted for visual clarity
Rout the groove profile in the inside
12 edges of the rails and stiles. Set the router
bit height to align the groove with the stub
tenon (inset). Make test cuts in a scrap
piece to adjust the bit height for a perfect
fit before cutting the actual parts.
good scale by adding a little more visual weight to rail-and-stile (also referred to as a cope-and stick)
the bottom of the door. Second, the wider dimension router bit set. This set contains two router bits;
adds more gluing surface, creating a stronger frame to one bit that cuts the stub tenon in the ends of the
support the glass panel. rails and another bit that cuts the panel groove and
Measure the height and width of the face frame edge profile.
openings. Determine the door width and height by Cut the door parts to size. Then rout the
subtracting the width of the gaps that must be left stub tenon profile on both ends of the rails
around the edges of the doors and between doors (photo 11). Next, rout the groove profile in the
(see page 209). inside edges of the stiles and rails (photo 12).
There are several ways to build frame and panel Make test cuts in a scrap piece to adjust the
doors. The doors for this cabinet are made using a bit alignment.
Proof 1
(continued)
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Assemble each doorframe with glue (photo 13).
Clamp the frames, checking them for square before
the glue sets up. Note: If you choose to install solid
13
panels rather than glass panels, then install the panels
when you assemble the frame.
The back edge of the groove must be removed
to create the rabbet that the glass fits against. Use a
router and bottom-bearing rabbet bit to remove the
back lip of the groove (photo 14). Use a chisel to clean
up the corners of the rabbet that the router bit does
not reach.
Hang the doors before you apply the finish and
install the glass. These doors are mounted on full
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
wrap-around, no-mortise hinges that offer the no-sag
benefits of butt hinges and are easy to install. Attach
the hinges to the cabinet and then mount the doors on
the hinges (photo 15). Mount magnetic catches on the
top rail to keep the doors closed.
After the doors are installed and operating
correctly, remove the doors and hardware. Cut
¼ × ¼-inch tack strips to hold the glass panels in the
Assemble the doorframe with glue. Measure diagonally
door. Cut enough tack strips to cover the perimeter of across the corners to check the frame for square (or, just use
all the glass. Sand and finish the doors and tack strips a carpenter’s square). If the diagonal measurements are equal,
to match the cabinet. then the frame is square.
14 15
Use a bottom-bearing rabbet bit to remove the back lip of Fasten the hinge to the door using the slotted screw
the groove. Set the bit depth so that the bearing rides on the holes first. These holes allow you to adjust the door position
front edge or “stick” profile of the door (inset). slightly. Drive screws in the fixed screw holes after the door
is positioned correctly in the cabinet. Drill pilot holes for each
screw to prevent stripping the screw head, breaking the
screws or splitting the door stile.Proof 1
208 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Text SLC Page:208
Install the glass in the doors after the finish
16 is dry. Place a sheet of glass in each door. Cut the
tack strips to fit along each side of the glass. Bore
1
⁄32-inch-diameter pilot holes through the tack strips,
spacing them 6 inches apart. Place the strips over the
glass and drive a 18 gauge × ¾-inch brad nail into
each pilot hole (photo 16). After the glass pieces are
installed, reinstall the hardware and hang the doors.
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Attach the tack strips to hold the glass in the doors. Use a
brad push tool to drive the brads or gently tap the brads with
a small hammer. Cover the glass with a piece of cardboard to
protect it.
Door Dimensions ▸
To prevent sagging, the maximum width of each door should be less than 24". If the cabinet opening is greater than 24"
wide, then use two doors.
1
⁄16 " gap
between
the top, Door overall dimensions:
bottom,
and sides Door width = face frame
and the
face frame
opening width – side gaps
(1⁄16 sides and 3⁄32 between doors)
Door
opening
height Door height = face frame
opening height – top and
bottom gaps (1⁄8 total)
Door part dimensions:
Door stile length = height of door
⁄32 " gap
3 Door opening
between width
Door rail length =
doors
width of door – 2 (stile width)
+ 2 (tenon length)
Proof 1
209CGHI_148-249_11984.indd 209 12/1/17 3:54 PM CGHI_148-249_11984.indd 209 Job: 11984 Title: #225388_Black & Decker Of Home Improvement (MBI) 12/1/17 3:51 PM Text SLC Page:209
W I N DOW SE AT
O ne great way to add cozy charm to a room is to
build a window seat. Not only do window seats
make a room more inviting, they provide functional
This size provides just the right height (when placed
on a 3-inch curb) to create a comfortable seat.
Above the cabinets and flanking each side is a
benefits as well, particularly when you surround them site-made bookcase. A top shelf bridges the two cases
with built-in shelving. The window seat shown here and ties the whole thing together—while creating still
has a base built from above-the-refrigerator cabinets. more space for storage or display.
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTSProof 1 2 T
210 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Text GSC SLC Page:210
Tools, Materials & Cutting List
Eye and ear protection ½ × ¼" rabbet
Work gloves
Miter saw
Tablesaw
Circular saw
E
Pull-type saw
F
Chisel
Drill/driver
Level
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
C D
Stud finder
Hammer A
Tape measure
Nail set B
F
Pneumatic nailer/compressor
Router
Shooting board
Sander B
Shims A
Framing square
(2) 15h × 24d × 36w C
stock cabinets
(2) ¾" × 4 × 8' pcs. MDF
or plywood
Screws/nails
(1) ¼" × 4 × 8' K
G C
birch plywood
Panel adhesive
Caulk J
Primer M H
Paint
M
I
N
L
M
Key No. Desc. Size Material Key No. Desc. Size Material
A 2 Outer standard ¾ × 111⁄2 × 771⁄4" MDF H 2 Cabinets 15 h × 36" w Stock cabinets
B 2 Inner standard ¾ × 111⁄2 × 631⁄4" MDF I 2 End panel ¾ × 24 × 18" MDF
C 8 Shelf ¾ × 161⁄2 × 111⁄4" MDF J 4 Nailer ¾ × 21⁄2 × 15" Plywood
D 1 Top shelf ¾ × 11 ⁄4 × 70 ⁄2" MDF
1 1 K 1 Ledger ¾ × 2 ⁄2 × 72"
1
Plywood
E 1 Top backer ¼ × 13 ⁄4 × 71 ⁄8" Plywood
1 3 L 2 Curb rim ¾ × 3 × 72" MDF
F 2 Backers ¼ × 17 ⁄2 × 63 ⁄4" Plywood
1 1 M 4 Curb strut ¾ × 3 × 22 ⁄2"
1
MDF
Proof 1 2 T
G 1 Seatboard ¾ × 25 × 74" MDF N 1 Cabinet nailer ¾ × 3 × 72" MDF
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■ HOW TO BU I L D A W I N DOW SE AT
LAY OUT THE PROJECT
1 This window seat is integrated with the existing
window and trimwork. The key control point for laying
out the base cabinets is locating the center of the
window opening. It is also important that the cabinets
sit level both left-to-right and front-to-back. Level
cabinet tops make installing the upper cabinet cases
much easier.
Before you begin building, relocate or remove any
electrical outlets that’ll be covered by the cabinet,
according to your local electrical codes. For example,
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
you can’t just dead-end wires and leave them buried
in a wall. They usually need to be capped and placed
in a junction box with a removable faceplate that is
The key control point for laying this project out is the center
accessible (which may mean making a cutout in the
of the window sill. Measure and mark it.
back of a cabinet panel).
Mark the center of the window opening on the
sill (photo 1). Use a square and a level to transfer that
2 mark down the wall to the cabinet height location.
At the height of the cabinets mark a level line.
Measure from the floor up to the level line in several
locations to make sure the cabinets will fit all along
their entire run (photo 2). If they don’t fit, make the
proper adjustments; that is, raise the line. Cabinets
that don’t come up to the line must be shimmed so
they are level. Using an electronic stud finder, find
and mark the wall stud locations beneath the window
and on each side in the project area. Note: You should
find jack and king studs directly on either side of the
window and a header above the window. Determine the
overall span of the cabinets you choose. For the project
After striking a level line at cabinet height, measure from shown here, the bank will be 6 feet long, measuring
the floor in three locations to make sure the cabinets will fit. from outside-edge to outside-edge. Use a level to mark
the outside edges of the cabinet run on the wall. Mark
plumb lines down to the floor and up to the ceiling
3 (photo 3).
INSTALL THE BASE CABINETS
With all the layout lines marked out, the next step
is to install the cabinets that form the base of the
window seat. This determines the control points for
the rest of the project layout. Use a pull-saw and sharp
chisel to remove base molding between the vertical
layout lines (photo 4).
To elevate the cabinets that will be used for the
seat to a more comfortable height, and to create
a toe-kick space, build a short curb that matches
Strike a plumb line on each edge of the cabinet run. Use a 4' the footprint of the seat. Since the curb will not be
level and strike the line from floor to ceiling. visible, you can use just about any shop scraps youProof 1
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may have to build it. The one shown here is made
with MDF sheet stock that is rip-cut into 3-inch-wide
strips. Then the curb is assembled into a ladder shape
4
by attaching struts between the front and back curb
members with glue and screws (photo 5). Once the
ladder is built, set the cabinets on the curb so the
cabinet fronts and sides align with the curb. Mark
the location of the backs of the cabinets onto the top
of the curb and then remove the cabinets. Attach a
nailer to the curb just behind the line for the cabinet
backs. Then, position the curb tight against the wall
in the area where the base molding has been removed.
Attach it to the sill plate of the wall with nails
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
or screws.
To support the back edge of the seatboard,
attach a ledger to the wall. The top of the ledger
(we used a 2½-inch-wide strip of plywood) should
be flush with the tops of the cabinets when they are
installed on top of the curb. Attach the ledger with
Because a pull-type saw requires almost zero clearance
panel adhesive and nails or screws driven at stud at the bottom of a cut (where it would hit the floor in this
locations (photo 6). Measure between the top of the application), it’s great for removing the base molding so the
curb and ledger and cut a few nailers to this length. cabinet carcases fit tight to the wall.
5 6
Assemble the curb members into a ladder-like frame and Attach a ledger for the back edge of the seatboard to the
secure the butt joints with glue and screws driven through wall, using panel adhesive and screws driven at stud locations.
pilot holes. Tack the ledger in place and then reinforce with wood screws
driven at stud locations.
Proof 1
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Attach them to the wall at the ends of the project,
7 and add a couple near the center to help support the
ledger (photo 7).
Set the cabinets in position on the curb, with the
back edges against the nailer. Drive shims between the
curb and the floor if necessary to level the cabinets
(photo 8). Fasten the cabinets to the nailer strip. Pre-
drill, countersink and fasten the face frames together
with screws to form a “gang” of cabinets (photo 9). If
you are using cabinets that have no face frames, screw
the cabinet sides together as directed by the cabinet
manufacturer. Cut off shims as necessary.
If the ends of your window seat are open (that
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
is, they don’t butt up against a wall), cut end panels
Cut nailers to fit between the ledger and the curb and attach to cover the ends of the cabinets and the open space
them to the wall at the ends of the project area. behind them. Use ¾-inch plywood or hardboard. You
may need to remove a sliver of the baseboard on each
side so you can butt the panels up against the wall.
8 Attach the panel to the cabinet ends and the curb
with panel adhesive.
Cut, rout, and install the seat top. Cutting a
74 × 25-inch blank from MDF (medium-density
fiberboard) works well. This will create a 1-inch
overhang at the front and sides of the cabinets.
10
For floors that are out of level, shim the cabinets up to the
level line to keep them in a level plane.
9
After clamping the cabinet face-frames together, Before installing the seat top, rout a profile on the front
predrill and fasten them together with screws. and side edges. Don’t rout the back.Proof 1
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Use a router and bit with a decorative profile (such as
an ogee or a plain roundover) to smooth the hard edge
of the MDF (photo 10). Profiling the edge reduces
11
the chance that the edge will chip or crack. Position
the seat top on top of the cabinets and the wall ledger
and fasten it from the interior of the cabinets using
predrilled coarse-threaded drywall screws. A bead of
panel adhesive along the top edges of the cabinet and
the ledger helps ensure a solid connection.
CUT THE CASE STOCK
The bookcase portion of the window seat can be
assembled from sheet stock or solid 1× stock, such
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
as 1 × 12 pine or poplar (pine is cheaper, poplar is
stronger and takes paint better) or hardwood like
maple, oak, or cherry for staining. Whatever material
you choose, install a backer sheet of ¼-inch plywood
that fits into rabbets in the backs of the case stock
to help ensure square assembly and provide a strong
connection point to the wall.
The actual width of 1 × 12 dimension lumber is
11¼ inches, so if using sheet stock, rip all pieces to
width. Any edges that face the interior of the room Clamp all work securely before milling the ½ × ¼ rabbet
need to be sanded smooth to remove saw marks. Note for the backers with a router, which will provide safe, accurate
that it’s usually easier to dress the factory edge than cuts. The remainder of the layout and sizing must be measured
the edge cut on-site. Running the pieces on a jointer from the seat top to accommodate specific site conditions.
or router table is a fast, accurate way to dress the edge.
A belt sander or finish sander with fine grit paper
works too, but be careful not to remove too much
stock. Of course, you can also hand sand it. 12
Cut a ½-inch wide by ¼-inch deep rabbet (see
drawing, page 211) on the backs of the standards (photo
11). You can do this with a tablesaw (either make multiple
passes on the tablesaw to remove stock or use a stacked
dado head cutter blade); using a router with a rabbeting
bit; or on a jointer or router table. The remainder of the
layout and sizing must be registered from the seat top to
accommodate specific site conditions.
INSTALL THE TOP-SHELF BACKER
The remaining measurements for the backer and
shelf dimensions are now determined by the distance
between your window casing, vertical layout lines, and
ceiling height. They must be site-measured for accuracy.
Lay out the top shelf backer (photo 12). It should
fit between the ceiling and the top of the window
casing—and between your vertical layout lines. To
calculate the top shelf backer dimensions, measure
between the vertical layout lines. Subtract 5⁄8 inch. To
calculate top shelf backer height, measure from the Use the layout lines to size the top shelf backer and the
top of the window casing to the ceiling. Subtract 1⁄8 backers for the vertical shelf units.
Proof 1
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Marking layout lines all at once using
13 a framing square is a good way to keep
lines parallel from shelf-to-shelf. Make
sure all bottoms are held flush during the
marking procedure.
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Install the shelves between the side
14 standards. Glue the joints and clamp
them. Tack them with finish nails. Drill
countersink pilot holes and reinforce with
three 2½" deck screws at each joint.
inch. Install the top shelf backer tight to the ceiling by shelf that sits directly above the seat top. The top shelf
fastening to studs with finish nails or screws. is installed later.
Lay out and cut the backer stock. To calculate
FABRICATE & ASSEMBLE THE BOOKCASES the width, measure the distance between the window
The bookcases’ outside edges run from the seat top to casing and the vertical layout line, minus 5⁄8 inch.
the ceiling. The inside edges run from the seat top to To calculate the height, measure the distance from
the top of the window casing. Measure and cut each the seat top to the bottom edge of the top backer and
vertical bookcase member to length. On a flat surface, subtract 1⁄8 inch.
lay all the bottoms of the bookcase members flush Assemble the cabinet sides and the backers. This
and mark out your shelves (photo 13). Use a framing is an ideal application for a pneumatic ¼-inch crown
square to mark them. Keep in mind there is a bottom stapler, but it can also be done effectively by predrillingProof 1
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15 16
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Hold the shelf assembly as tight as possible to the window For paint grade units, caulk any gaps to make shadow
trim, seat top and wall then fasten. Drive at least two or three lines disappear. You can caulk the gap on paint grade
screws to hold each unit, in addition to nails. shelves too. Be extra diligent in wiping down the material
after caulking.
and screwing, or by using a pneumatic finish nailer. Use sits as tightly to the wall, seat top, and window trim
a framing square as a reference to be sure the cabinet as possible. Expect to make some on-site corrections
carcasses are as square as possible during assembly. as necessary to accommodate out-of-plumb walls
Measure, cut, and install shelves at the layout lines or other imperfections. Slight gaps can be caulked
(photo 14). Fasten through the cabinet carcass into the later. Repeat for the right-side bookcase and then
shelves. Predrill and countersink if using screws. measure, cut, and install the top shelf. If painting,
caulk wherever necessary (photo 16). Fill exposed
INSTALL THE BOOK CASES & TOP SHELF holes for nails and screws, then prime and paint or
Butt the left bookcase to the window trim and fasten apply another finish of your choice. Make or buy
it to a wall stud with a few screws or nails driven a comfortable seat cushion. Finally, brew a cup of
through the backer (photo 15). Make sure the case coffee, grab a good book, and get busy relaxing.
Proof 1
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WA L L N IC H E
A wall niche is kind of cubby hole carved into a
stud wall, usually to house display shelving.
These days, they are often seen in higher-end housing
Check to see if there are light switches or plugs above
or below the niche opening before cutting and try to
deduce where plumbing might be routed and located.
as prefashioned inserts with an arch shape and Greco- Safety notice: This project should be installed only
Roman styling, often with classical statuary within the in nonload-bearing walls. Do not cut wall studs in load-
niche sides. The niche shown here is a rather different bearing walls unless you are working with a certified
animal. It is simply a wooden box that you slip into a building engineer or licensed contractor.
hole in the wall and then trim out.
A niche creates a perfect spot to stash napkin
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
holders, salt and pepper shakers, and other tableware
so your table surface is clear for eating, relaxing or
doing a bit of homework.
The steps, skills, and tools described here can
be used to create wall niches of various sizes and in
numerous locations. It is important to note, however,
that these niches are intended for nonload-bearing
walls. If the niche you wish to create would involve
cutting framing members in a load-bearing wall,
consider redesigning the project so you do not have
to cut wall studs. Making structural alterations
to a load-bearing wall should be done only by
qualified professionals.
It’s also important to be aware of any electrical
wires or gas or water plumbing near your project area.
■ HOW TO BU I L D A WA L L N IC H E
LAY OUT THE NICHE Remove the drywall, exposing the wall studs.
Determine that the wall you’re cutting into is not More than likely, you’re going to have a wall stud or
a load-bearing or exterior wall. Determine the two somewhere in the middle of the opening. Use a
opening’s finished location and height and width. A reciprocating saw to remove the studs. Or, you can
niche 8 inches tall by 24 inches wide is just the right use a circular saw to start the cut (photo 2), carefully
proportions for most kitchen tables and booths. Use aligning it with the edge of the drywall and using it to
a 2-foot level and mark all four sides of the opening cut the stud. Then, finish the cut with a reciprocating
plumb and level at the finished location. These lines saw (photo 3). Be careful not to cut through the
are the control points for all other measurements. drywall on the back side of the cut.
Measure ¾ inch out from each control point When removing studs, you may pull a fastener
line (photo 1). Do this at two points on each line and through from an adjoining room and have to repair
connect the dots using a 2-foot level. that afterwards. Nails or screws may be penetrating
from the other side of the wall into the stud. Carefully
MAKE THE CUTOUT remove the stud section. It is likely that removing
Check in the basement and adjoining walls for wiring the stud section will cause the fastener to pull
and pipes. Open a preliminary hole with a razor through the opposite side of the wall, so touch-up
knife to check if you’re unsure. Use a drywall saw or may be necessary. For most nonload-bearing walls the
reciprocating saw to cut along the cutline. Make the competed niche box should provide adequate supportProof 1
cut as shallow as you can in case there are hidden for the cut studs. But if you are cutting more than
wires or pipes in the wall. one stud, or if you simply want to be certain the niche
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Tools, Materials & Cutting List
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
C
A
D
B
Eye and ear protection Sandpaper Key No. Desc. Size Material
Work gloves Drywall finishing tools A 2 Top/bottom ¾ × 3 ⁄8 × 25 ⁄2"
5 1
Hardwood
Drywall/plaster 2-ft. level B 2 Side ¾ × 3 ⁄8 × 8"
5
Hardwood
cutting saw Aviator snips
C 1 Back ¼ × 9 ⁄2 × 25 ⁄2"
1 1
Plywood
Reciprocating saw 1×6
D 4 Trim ½ × 2 ⁄8" × miter to fit
7
Case molding
Cordless drill/driver Trim-head screws
Circular saw ¼" birch plywood
Miter saw scrap
Countersink 15⁄8" drywall screws
Finish nails Case molding
Glue or panel adhesive Paint
Caulk or adhesive
Proof 1
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1 2
Start your layout by mapping out the niche’s finished Cut as deeply into the wall studs as you can with a
dimensions, then measure out from there for the rough circular saw or trim saw.
opening where you will make your cuts. This is the cutline. With
electrical power turned off, cut the opening in the wall covering.
Use caution in case there are hidden wires or pipes in the area.
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
3 4
Use a reciprocating saw to finish the cut. This method Rip-cut the niche frame boards to width. Cut them
is easier on the drywall—especially if the studs back up to so they stop just short of the opposite wallcovering
another room—and provides a straighter cut. when installed.
5 6
Assemble the niche box. Drill countersunk pilot holes for Use standard casing to trim out the niche like a picture
the screws. frame. Preinstalling the trim means you can slip the niche box
assembly into the opening. The trim guides how the box sets
against the wall, similar to how a prehung door is installed.
box does not sag from downward pressure, make the measurement yields the required width of the boards
opening larger and install a double 2 × 4 header over you’ll use to make the niche box. Rip-cut 1 × 6 × 8
the niche box. This will require considerably more lumber to the required width, using a tablesaw or a
patching of the wall covering, but you may appreciate circular saw with a straightedge guide (photo 4). Cut
it for your own peace of mind. the frame parts to length.
Fasten top and bottom niche frame parts to the
BUILD THE NICHE BOX sides with drywall screws driven into countersunk
Measure the depth of your wall cavity and subtract 3⁄8 pilot holes (photo 5). Cut the backer board to size and
inch from the overall depth to give yourself a little bit attach it to the back edges of the frame with drywallProof 1
of flexibility when installing the niche and to allow for screws or finish nails. Cut trim moldings (such as
the thickness (¼ inch) of the backer material. This door casing or picture frame molding) to fit the niche
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INSTALL THE NICHE BOX
7 The niche box is fastened through the interior walls
of the box to the ends of the stud(s) you removed.
It can also be fastened to blocks you install in the wall
cavity on each side. Locate each stud and transfer its
location to the interior of the box and mark it.
Test-fit the niche box to make sure it lays flat
against drywall. When you have established that the fit
is good, run a bead of caulk/adhesive on the backsides
of the trim pieces.
Fasten the niche box up into the stud ends with finish nails. Insert the niche box into the opening. Press firmly
so the trim squeezes into the adhesive.
box. For the most satisfying results, choose a molding Predrill holes at stud locations and fasten with a
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
style and approach that reflects the molding scheme pair of 6d finish nails driven through the frame boards
already in the room. Fasten the trim to the niche box and into the ends of the cut wall studs (photo 7).
with finish nails and glue or panel adhesive (photo 6). Fill and sand fastener holes. Sand and caulk as
Run a small bead of caulk/adhesive on the face of the necessary. Prime and paint or apply another finish of
niche box. your choice.
Options for Making a Wall Niche ▸
One key to cutting in a wall niche is to understand that project, as long as you’re building in a nonload-bearing wall
you must cut a larger hole in your wall than the finished you can locate your niche just about anywhere you choose.
dimensions of the wall niche. So first, you determine the Three options for trimming out a wall niche are described
niche’s finished location and opening dimensions and mark here. The first is to frame a wood niche insert with picture-
them out on the wall. You then measure from those lines frame trim. The second is to use a drywall wrap created
so that the niche box fits inside the wall. Although making with blocking inside the wall cavity and finished with joint
the niche so it fits precisely within a stud bay has some compound to blend with the surrounding wall. The third
built-in efficiencies, it is not necessary. As you’ll see in this option simply involves installing a prefabricated product.
Build your niche completely out of wood, insert it into
a hole cut in the wall and trim it with picture molding (as
seen on previous pages).
Purchase a prefabricated wall niche from an Frame the niche opening and install a wood shelf at
architectural millwork supplier and install it in a properly the bottom, then trim out the opening with drywall using
Proof 1
sized wall opening. common taping and finishing techniques.
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FOR M A L BOOKCA SE
F ew furnishings add prestige to a space like a formal
floor-to-ceiling bookcase. Typically built from clear
hardwood, the classically-designed bookcase delivers a
built in a modular fashion, you can design it to any
dimensions you wish.
The formal bookcase shown here is 8 feet long,
refined, Old World feel. The bookcase shown here is 8 feet high, and installed on a 12-foot-long wall.
made from red oak plywood and red oak 1× stock and Because it’s centered in the space, the moldings and
moldings finished with a high gloss urethane. What’s sides return to the wall, creating niches on the left
also nice about this piece is that it incorporates the and right that are great for decoration. However, this
wall behind it to balance all that clear hardwood with bookcase can be built wall-to-wall if desired. It’s a
a splash of color and depth. This is a fixed-shelf design flexible design. Finally, the exact same style shelf
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
that enables you to build shelves anywhere you like can be built to take paint. Instead of using red oak,
to match your needs. And, because the shelf bays are though, poplar is a great choice for a painted finish.Proof 1
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Tools, Materials & Cutting List
Miter saw L
Tablesaw
Circular saw M
N
Router
Drill/driver L A
Level H
C
Stud finder J
Pull saw B
F
Flat bar
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
E
Router G
Step ladder or work platform
Air nailer K
Combination square
Drywall or deck screws G B
Finish nails
Glue C
A
Finishing materials
Eye and ear protection D
Work gloves
Construction adhesive
I E
(3) 4 × 8' sheets
¾" red oak plywood (1) 1 × 10" × 8' red oak (4) Rosettes
(16) 1 × 2" × 8' red oak (4) 5⁄8 × 33⁄8 × 84" (4) Plinth blocks
(4) 1 × 6" × 8' red oak oak molding (11) lineal ft. red oak crown molding
(3) 2 × 2" × 8' pine
Key No. Desc. Size Material Key No. Desc. Size Material
A 2 Upright (outer) ¾ × 111⁄2 × 96" Red oak plywood J 11 Shelf cleat ¾ × 11⁄2 × 31" Red oak
B 2 Upright (inner) ¾ × 111⁄2 × 941⁄2" Red oak plywood (wall)
C 14 Shelf ¾ × 111⁄2 × 31 Red oak plywood K 22 Shelf cleat ¾ × 11⁄2 × 103⁄4" Red oak
D
(side)
11 Shelf nosing ¾ × 1 ⁄2 × 31"
1
Red oak 1 × 2
L 3 Crown molding ½ × 33⁄16" × cut to fit Red oak
E 4 Upright backer ¾ × 5 ⁄2 × 96"
1
Red oak 1 × 6
F M 2 Ceiling cleat 11⁄2 × 11⁄2 × 941⁄2 2×2
1 Fascia ¾ × 91⁄2 × 96" Red oak 1 × 10
(long)
G 4 Fluted molding 5
⁄8 × 33⁄8 × 781⁄2 Red oak molding
N 2 Ceiling cleat 1 1⁄ 2 × 1 1⁄ 2 × 8 1⁄ 2" 2×2
H 4 Rosette ¾ × 4 × 4" Red oak molding
(short)
I 4 Plinth block ¾ × 4 × 4" Red oak molding
Proof 1 2 T
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■ HOW TO BU I L D A FOR M A L BOOKC A SE
LAY OUT THE PROJECT ON YOUR WALL
1 This bookcase is designed to be stick-built at your
installation site. The best place to begin is by drawing
layout lines on the wall. The most important lines
mark the locations of the four uprights, which need
to be vertical and parallel, and the shelf cleats, which
must be horizontal and parallel. Start by locating the
centerline for the bookcase installation and marking it
on the baseboard and on the wall. Measure out 4 feet
on each side of the centerline and make marks for the
outside edges of the bookcase. These lines represent
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
the outer faces of the left and right uprights. Using
a pull saw, cut and remove the baseboard between
Cut through the base molding at the edges of the project the left and right marks. Make your cuts as square as
area and remove it so the bookcase can fit tightly up against
possible (photo 1).
the wall.
Measure and make a mark at 15½ and 16¼ inches
on each side of the centerline, dividing the project
area into three equal bays and establishing locations of
2 the ¾-inch-thick uprights.
Measuring up from the floor, mark horizontal shelf
cleat locations on the walls at the back of each bay.
The cleats should stop at the upright locations so the
¾-inch-thick uprights can fit snugly in between the
cleat ends. In the drawing, there is one bottom shelf,
set 6½ inches off the floor in all three bays. The left
and right bays have shelves 24, 48, and 72 inches up
from the floor. The center bay has a single center shelf
set at 36 inches off the top of the bottom shelf ledger
and a top shelf at 72 inches (see diagram, page 223).
Using a 4-foot level, mark horizontal reference lines
Carefully mark out the plumb lines for the outside edges for the shelf cleats in all three bays. Draw a small “X”
of the uprights and continue the mark up onto the ceiling. below each line as a reminder of which side of the line
to fasten the cleat. Then, use the 4-foot level to extend
the outlines for the uprights all the way up from the
3 floor to the ceiling (photo 2). These sets of parallel
lines should be ¾ inch apart and plumb.
At the ceiling, lay out the location for the 2 × 2
frame that creates nailing surfaces for the outer
uprights and the 1 × 6 upright backers that are centered
on the front edges of the uprights. The 2 × 2 frame
should span from the inside faces of the outer uprights
and extend 11½ inches out from the wall (photo 3).
Make a Marking Gauge ▸
Use a spacer as a gauge for marking the position of the
front edge of the 2 × 2 nailing frame that is attached to Make an 11½"-wide spacer to use as a marking gauge.
the ceiling.Proof 1
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4 5
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Attach the 2 × 2 nailing frame to the ceiling at the layout Attach all of the shelf cleats to the wall, making sure to
lines, making sure to catch a ceiling joist where possible and preserve an even ¾" gap between cleat ends to make room
using appropriate anchors in spots where no joist is present. for the inner uprights.
If you’re installing undercabinet lights such as you may need to use toggle bolts or other wall anchors
puck lights, locate the center of each bay on the to secure the frame along the front edge.
ceiling and mark them for lights. Get a qualified
electrician to install the wiring, fixtures, and switches. ATTACH THE SHELF CLEATS TO THE WALL
If you’re doing the work yourself, follow local building While plenty of fasteners, including trim-head wood
codes. Pull the wire through the drywall or plaster and screws or 8d nails, may be dependably used to connect
pigtail (curl up) for fixture installation later. the 1 × 2 red oak shelf cleats to the walls at stud
locations, a pneumatic or cordless finish nailer loaded
INSTALL THE NAILING FRAME with 2-inch nails is ideal for the task. It eliminates the
For ease of installation, assemble the 2 × 2 nailing need to predrill and countersink fasteners, as you would
frame on the ground. Use 2½-inch pneumatic when driving screws or hand-nailing into hardwood. A
finish nails or drywall screws to join the 2 × 2 frame pneumatic nailer also dispenses fasteners quickly and
components. Test to make sure the assembly is accurately, making it much easier when you’re working
square. Attach the frame to the ceiling by screwing alone. Cut and install the cleats at the layout lines. A
up through the members at ceiling joist locations (use few dabs of construction adhesive applied to the wall
an electronic stud finder to identify these). Attach the behind the cleats will add even more strength to the
frame to the wall’s top plate at the wall/ceiling joint connection. Fasten the cleats so the upright returns can
(photo 4). If the ceiling joists are parallel to the wall, be installed around them (photo 5).
Proof 1
(continued)
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INSTALL THE UPRIGHTS are perpendicular to the wall and then position a
Cut the outer uprights (11½ inches wide) to full 1 × 6 upright backer over the upright edge. Center
room height in length. Rest the bottoms on the floor the backer on the upright edge and nail it to the
and nail the top ends to the ends of the 2 × 2 nailing 2 × 2 nailing frame. Double check that the upright is
frame (photo 6). Also drive 8d finish nails through the perpendicular to the wall by measuring the bays at the
uprights and into the ends of the shelf cleats in the wall and at the front of the upright and making sure
outer bays (drill pilot holes first). the measurements are the same. Then drill pilot holes
Rout a roundover, bead, or chamfer onto each and drive 8d finish nails (or pneumatic nails) through
edge of the upright backer if desired (photo 7). Cut the backer and into the edge of the upright at 12-inch
the inner uprights (11½ inches wide) to length. They intervals (photo 8). Install both inner uprights.
should be 1½ inches shorter than the outer uprights
because they butt up against the underside of the INSTALL THE SHELVES
2 × 2 nailing frame on the ceiling. Position the inner The shelves and shelf cleats help stabilize the
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
uprights between the ends of the shelf cleats that structure, so install them next. Start by nailing a
are attached to the wall in each bay. At the ceiling, shelf to the 2 × 2 ceiling frame at the top of each bay
use a framing square to make sure the inner uprights (photo 9).
6 7
Nail the outer uprights to the ends of the nailing frame Routing a bead, round over, or chamfer adds nice detail and
attached to the ceiling. shadow lines to the upright backers.
8 9
Attach the upright backers to the front edges of the inner Attach a shelf board at the top of each bay to conceal the
uprights with pneumatic or hand-driven finish nails. framework attached to the ceiling.Proof 1
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Text SLC Page:226
10 11
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Attach the shelf cleats to the uprights with 1¼" fasteners. Edge the red oak shelves with 1 × 2 red oak nosing that’s
bonded to the shelves with glue and finish nails.
12 13
Conceal the gap between the top of the bookcase and Attach the plinth blocks, rosettes and fluted case moldings
ceiling with crown molding or sprung cove molding. Installing to compete the trimwork installation.
crown molding can get complicated. Consult a trim carpentry
book if you are unsure how to work with crown molding.
Attach the short shelf cleats to the sides of the with the outer faces of the outer uprights. Make sure
uprights so each shelf is supported on three sides the fascia board is level before attaching it with nails
(photo 10). Use a level to make sure the cleats are driven into the tops of the upright backers. Once the
level and attach them with 1¼-inch finish nails fascia board is in place, cut, fit and attach the crown
and adhesive. molding and molding return at the top (photo 12).
Cut the remaining shelves to length and set them Install the plinth blocks at the bottom of each
on the cleats. Cut the 1 × 2 shelf nosing and attach it upright backer, resting on the floor and centered side
to the front edges of the exposed shelves, making sure to side. Then, attach the rosettes at the top of each
the shelves are flush with the top edge of the nosing upright backer, centered side to side. Measure from
(photo 11). Use 4d finish nails driven through pilot the bottom of the rosette to the top of the plinth
holes or pneumatic finish nails to attach the nosing. block and cut fluted case molding to fit. Install with
adhesive and nails (photo 13). Fill nail holes, sand,
ATTACH THE TRIM and apply finish. If the installation room has base shoe
Cut the 1 × 10 red oak fascia board the full width of moldings, you may want to add them to your bookcase
the bookcase and nail it to the top so the ends are flush for a consistent look.
Proof 1
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BOX BE A M SH E LV E S
I f you’re looking for a basic starter project that you
can finish with your own flourishes and flair, you’ve
come to the right place. This shelf is made from a
cherished items and an ideal spot for long, flowing
potted plants. Another possibility is to dado in a plate
groove for displaying plates and china.
basic design platform that looks great as is, but it If you want to change the size, shape, and reveals
can be easily altered with trim and finish options. In on the basic box you can add different moldings and
addition to its versatility, this shelf has the benefit trim to make it your own. The good news is that the
that its connection to the wall surface is invisible. The assembly techniques for building the box remain the
reason is that the “box” has no back and you can slip same. All you need to do is adjust the measurements.
it over a ledger board fastened to the wall. Fastening The shelf laid out here is fabricated from MDF
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
through the top of the box holds the assembly securely and shown painted, but you could make it out of
in place without brackets or even any visible fasteners, hardwood stock and matching hardwood plywood if
creating a tight, integrated look. you prefer. The basic shelf-box is composed of five
As a design element in any living space you can pieces: three sides, a bottom, and a top. The shelf is
make several Box Beam Shelves and hang them at 251/2 inches wide, 103/4 inches deep, and 31/4 inches tall.
different heights in a room to create an accent wall. The top shelf panel is a single piece of 3/4-inch MDF
Or, hang several of them at the same level and create that is 261/2 inches wide and 113/4 inches deep. The
a picture rail, of sorts. They’re perfect for displaying ledger is a 2× ripped 11/2-inch square.Proof 1
228 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Tools, Materials & Cutting List
A
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
E
C
B
D
Tools
Tablesaw
Miter saw
Circular saw
Router
Ladder
Level Cutting List
Cordless drill/driver
Sander or power planer Part NO. Desc. Size Material
A 1 Top panel 3
⁄4 × 11 ⁄4 × 26 ⁄2"
3 1
MDF
B 1 Bottom panel 3
⁄4 × 10 × 24" MDF
Materials
C 2 Side wraps 3
⁄4 × 2 ⁄2 × 10 ⁄4"
1 3
MDF
3
/4" MDF
Fasteners D 1 Front wrap 3
⁄4 × 2 ⁄2 × 25 ⁄2"
1 1
MDF
(1) 2 × 4 scrap (at least E 1 Cleat 11⁄2 × 11⁄2 × 233⁄4" 2 × 4 (or 2 × 2)
24")
(1) tube adhesive caulk
(1) scrap of 1/4" plywood
Proof 1
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■ HOW TO BU I L D BOX BE A M SH E LV E S
Most power miter saws do not have
1 a 10" cutting capacity. To cut the wide
stock for this project, you can either
make a portion of the cut on the miter
saw then turn the board around so you
can finish the cut, or use a circular saw
and square-guide.
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
The key to a durable, good-looking
2 assembly is to cut the sides and the front
strips that wrap the bottom panel bottom
panel accurately. Careful measurement
and cutting keeps the miter joints tight and
together during assembly.
CUT THE PARTS Cut the bottom panel to size using a sliding power
The first step is to cut all the pieces on the miter and miter saw (or a circular saw and straightedge guide if
table saw. If you need to, rough-cut the MDF sheet your miter saw doesn’t have a 10-inch cut capacity–
to size using a circular saw, but make the final cuts photo 1), or a tablesaw. Because the sides and front
with the miter saw and tablesaw. Start by fabricating wrap around the bottom panel, it is the control point for
the shelf ’s bottom panel. Then, make the pieces for the rest of the layout. Cutting it accurately is important.
a three-sided (or C-Shaped) shelf box. The pieces Be careful to be as exact as you can while cutting. Cut
will be assembled around the bottom panel. Cut the stock for the shelf sides (called the panel wraps) to 21/2-
top-shelf panel. Finally, rip the ledger from a piece inch width and sand, joint, or plane out any saw marks
of 2× stock. This assembly works best if cutting left behind. Also cut the top panel to size.
tolerances are kept tight, so be extra careful with Rip the ledger to width (11/2 inches) and cross-cut
measuring, marking, and cutting. it to length. Cut the panel wraps to length using the
miter saw (photo 2).Proof 1
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Text SLC Page:230
Clamp the bottom panel to the bench
3 to keep it stationary while you fasten
the panel wraps around it, enabling you
to focus your attention on getting the
assembly tight.
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Prior to installing the front panel wrap
4 to the left panel wrap, dab each miter with
adhesive caulk.
ASSEMBLE THE PARTS on the bench then clamping the bottom panel over it,
Assembling the parts square and tight all starts with propping it up (photo 3). Follow up by wrapping the
the bottom panel—it’s the guide for getting the miters bottom panel with the panel wraps.
nice and tight. For fastening, a cordless drill and trim Fasten the left panel wrap to the bottom panel.
drive screws (pre-drill and countersink all holes) is Use the front panel wrap to guide your exact placement
great. A brad nailer or finish nailer will also work of the left panel wrap. In other words, match up the
nicely. Should you use a pneumatic tool like this, miters on the front and left panel wraps, then fasten
make sure to drive fasteners straight into the stock. the left panel wrap. Apply adhesive caulk to the left
Nails driven at an angle can blow out of the material panel wrap miter and the left side miter on the front
and are tough to remove. panel wrap (photo 4), then install the front panel wrap.
A good trick for adding shadow lines is to inset Make sure to have a damp cloth or sponge to wipe
the bottom into the panel wraps about 1/4 inch. Do this away any squeeze-out. Repeat this process for the right
by first screwing a scrap of 1/4-inch plywood (cut just panel wrap and install. Only fasten the bottom edge.
a little smaller than the bottom panel’s dimensions)
Proof 1
(continued)
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Use a router and profiling bit to shape a decorative HANG THE SHELF
edge along the front of the top panel (photo 5). Attach Installing the Box Beam Shelf on the wall ledger
the top piece to the box frame. Before fastening, use a provides an invisible connection. The open back of
combination square and double-check that all reveals the shelf slips over a ledger board you fasten to the
are the same (photo 6). wall studs. You then drive screws through the shelf
panel down into the ledger for a very snug, very secure
CAULK & FINISH connection. It may be tempting on some walls to
It’s easier to caulk and paint this project in the shop simply use hollow-wall anchors instead of locating and
than it is on the wall. Caulk, prime, and paint as fastening to two studs, but because all the weight of
desired. A small paint roller sleeve will give a smooth, the Box Beam Shelf is out at the front edge, that is
professional finish (photo 7). not a recommended connection. Besides, at 24 inches
long, the ledger for the Box Beam Shelf should cover
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
5 6
Cut a decorative profile along the front edge of the top Before fastening the top panel on top of the box frame,
panel, such as the ogee profile being routed into the top panel make sure that the reveals are equal all the way around and
here. that the back is flush to the back edge of the box assembly.
7 8
Finishing this Box Beam Shelf in the shop is much easier Make a solid connection with the studs by driving two
than finishing it in location. Prop it up on its back edge during screws per stud through the ledger. If the stud is near the end
finishing so you can access the top, sides, and bottom with a of the ledger, pre-drill and countersink before fastening.
paint brush. Be careful not to knock it over.Proof 1
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at least two wall studs almost anywhere you put it
(especially if your walls have 16 o.c. framing).
Determine the shelf ’s final location and mark it
9
on the wall. Try to locate it so that the ledger falls over
two wall framing members. Strike a level line. Screw
the ledger to the wall studs with 31/2-inch deck screws
(photo 8). Use two screws per stud.
Predrill countersunk pilot holes for at least three
deck screws 3/4-inch in from the back edge of the top
panel. Slip the Box Beam Shelf over the ledger so the
back edges are flush against the wall surface. Fasten Hold the shelf tight to the wall and fasten using at least three
the shelf to the wall by driving 2-inch deck screws 2" deck screws driven through pilot holes and into the tops of
through the pilot holes and into the top of the ledger the ledger.
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
(photo 9).
“Other Ideas” ▸
One great feature about this shelf design is the numerous rail you choose, you may not even have to alter the
ways you can add your own details to it. You can use your measurements on the shelf box, and you can apply
table saw to cut in a plate groove in the top shelf panel the chair rail right to the box. However, if you select a
or apply a molding detail with casing, chair rail or crown molding that is more than 3/4" thick, trim the box size by
under the top shelf panel to provide lift, create texture and /4" so you can keep the top shelf panel’s 1" overhang.
3
add shadow lines. You can add a second top shelf panel If you add a molding that’s 1" thick or thicker, make the
a littler larger than the first to create a layered effect. And sides of the box 1" shorter and 1" thinner to compensate.
you can wrap the back with a picture-frame molding. The
sky is the limit. LAYERS
You need to alter the sizes of the shelf box and the Using two—instead of one—top shelf panels is another
top shelf to fit these additions so lay them out carefully simple but interesting way to add detail. Make the
before you begin cutting wood. But, because the ledger second top shelf panel 1/2" deeper and 1" longer than
board connection is strong but small, there is room to the original shelf panel shown above. Then, instead of
move. Here are some ideas to get you started: routing a bead on the top of the panel, rout a chamfer
on the bottom of each shelf panel to make them look
PLATE GROOVE like they are stepped and ascending. Routing a cove is
Adding a plate groove is easy and a smart addition if also a nice detail.
you plan to display plates or other items like framed
photos that you intend to lean on the wall. You can cut PICTURE FRAME
the grooves in a single pass on your table saw using a Whichever shelf you build, you can add a picture frame
dado head cutter, or you can take multiple passes with a molding to the back of the unit to make the unit look
standard saw blade to create the groove. Make the groove like it is an extension of the wall space. The idea is to
1
/4" to 3/8" wide and 1/4" deep. You can even use a router use 1 × 4 or MDF ripped to width and wrap the back
and edge guide to plow a dado into the top of the shelf of the Box Beam Shelf with it. Install the shelf box
panel. Tip: When cutting the groove, do not cut all the way without the top shelf panel and fasten into the ledger
up to the ends of the board. That way, the groove will be board from the sides. Install the picture frame molding
invisible when viewed from below or straight on. If you cut before installing the top shelf panel or any other
past the shelf ends you’ll be able to see the groove. molding combinations. Also be aware that the picture
frame molding adds 3/4" to the overall depth of the shelf
MOLDING DETAIL so you may want to trim a corresponding 3/4" off your top
Adding a basic chair rail molding is the easiest add-on shelf panels.
Proof 1 2 T
option for the Box Beam Shelf. Depending on the chair
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M E DI A BA R
Y our snacks and beverages will always be close at
hand during the big game when your flat-panel
TV is mounted in this media cabinet. It combines
Tools & Materials ▸
the functionality of an entertainment center and Tablesaw or Masking tape
the convenience of a mini kitchen. The base and circular saw (3) 24" base cabinets
upper cabinets provide storage for your home and straightedge (2) 24" wall cabinets
theater components, movies, games, and snacks. Jigsaw (1) 25½" × 8'
There’s also a space between the base cabinets for Drill/driver countertop
a small refrigerator or beverage cooler. The counter Level Eye and ear
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
serves as a perfect serving station or a place to keep 2"-dia. hole saw bit protection
a couple additional small appliances, such as a Drill bits (1⁄8, ¼") Work gloves
microwave or blender. And, the integrated matching Caulk gun
wood wall conceals a structural frame that is easy (5) 2 × 4 × 8'
to mount your TV to and provides a path for cables (2) 1 × 4 × 8'
from the TV to your electronic components in the Screws (1¼, 15⁄8,
base cabinet. 2, 2½")
This unit may look like a custom-built piece of (1) ½" × 4 × 8 finish-
furniture, but it’s actually made from a combination grade plywood
of stock kitchen cabinets and matching cover panels. Panel adhesive
Building it only requires a few portable power tools Tape measure
and basic building skills.Proof 1 2 T
234 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Text GSC SLC Page:234
Cutting List
24" wall cabinets
A
A
A
A
A
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
B
H
D
F
G
E
C J
I
24" base cabinets
Key NO. Description Dimension Key NO. Description Dimension
A 5 Wall frame studs 1½ × 3½ × 60" F 1 Back splash panels ½ × 20 × 48"
B 3 Wall frame cleats ¾ × 3½ × 47" G 1 Wall frame front cover panels ½ × 48 × 60"
C 1 Base cabinet cover panel ½ × 24 × 30" H 1 Wall cabinet side cover panel ½ × 85⁄8 × 40"
D 1 Left frame side cover panel ½ × 4¼ × 60" I 1 Front toe-kick ½ × 4½* × 24"
E 1 Right frame side cover panel ½ × 4¼ × 20" J 1 or 2 Side toe-kick ½ × 4½* × 24"
Proof 1
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■ HOW TO BU I L D A M E DI A BA R
ROUTE THE WIRING installed. Measure the distance of the wall outlet
Install any necessary electrical outlets and home from the end of the cabinets and from the floor
theater cables, such as speaker wire, before you and transfer those measurements to the back of the
install the cabinets. Install one outlet in the center cabinet to mark the outlet location. Use a jigsaw to cut
of the base cabinet refrigerator space and another a 3-inch-wide × 5-inch-tall hole through the cabinet
outlet behind one of the cabinets that will be below back panel exactly where the outlet will be located.
the television. You may also want to install one outlet Then cut a 2-inch-wide × 8-inch-long hole through
below the wall cabinets (approximately 42 inches the top spreader at the back of the cabinet (photo 2).
above the floor) that will serve appliances that may be Your cables could fit through a smaller hole in the
used on the countertop. Install the outlet box above top of the cabinet, but making a larger hole will make
the countertop so that it extends ½ inch beyond the routing the cables much easier.
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
drywall and will be flush with the backsplash panel. If Slide the base cabinets against the wall. Adjust
you are not familiar with the skills necessary to install the legs or shim below the cabinets to level the tops
the electrical devices, then hire a licensed electrical of the cabinets. Attach the two adjacent cabinet sides
contractor to handle this work. together with the manufacturer-provided connector
fasteners or with 1¼-inch screws. Then secure the
INSTALL THE CABINETS & COUNTERTOP cabinets to the wall studs with 2½-inch drywall screws.
Locate and mark the wall stud locations. Follow the Cut a notch in the back edge of the countertop
manufacturer instructions to assemble the wall and that will align with the access hole you cut in the top
base cabinet frames if they are not preassembled. cabinet spreader. Cut the notch in laminate or wood
If the doors and drawers are not attached to the countertops with a jigsaw (photo 3). Natural stone
cabinets, then wait to install them after the cover countertop materials require a diamond abrasive blade
panels are attached. Install the two wall cabinets. The and should be cut by a stone countertop fabricator.
method you use to attach the cabinets on the wall Attach the countertop to the cabinets (photo 4).
depends on the type of cabinet construction. In this
case a metal bracket is attached to the wall and then INSTALL THE WALL FRAME
the cabinet is fastened to the metal bracket (photo 1). & COVER PANELS
Cord and cable access holes must be cut in the Build the wall frame. Cut the 2 × 4 wall frame posts
back and top of the base cabinet that will be installed and 1 × 4 cleats to length and assemble them with
directly in front of the electrical outlet below the TV. 2-inch wood screws. Then place the wall frame on the
Line up the base cabinets a few feet away from the countertop and against the wall cabinet. Secure the
wall, positioning them in the order that they will be wall frame to the room wall (photo 5).
1
Attach the wall cabinet bracket to the wall as specified in the cabinet installation instructions. Then, fasten the cabinets to
the bracket. Attach the cabinets to each other with fasteners provided by the cabinet manufacturer or by driving short screws
through the cabinet sides.Proof 1
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Text SLC Page:236
2 3
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Cut access holes in the base cabinet. Trace outlines for Cut the countertop access hole. Attach masking tape to
the access holes in the back panel and top spreader on the the countertop to help prevent chipping the surface when it is
cabinet that will be installed in front of the wall outlet. Drill 3⁄8"- cut. Mark the access notch outline on the countertop. Cut the
dia. saw blade starter holes at each corner of the outline. Use a notch with a jigsaw.
jigsaw to cut the sides of the hole.
4 5
Attach the countertop to the cabinets. Drive 15⁄8" screws Attach the wall frame to the room wall. Drive 2½" drywall
through the cabinet top and into the countertop. Be careful not screws through the wall frame cleats and into the room wall
to overdrive the screws and break through the top surface of studs. Drive three screws into each stud.
the countertop.
Proof 1
(continued)
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6 7
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Attach the wall frame side cover panels to the wall frame Measure the distance from the face of the front panel to the
with panel adhesive and 15⁄8" screws. Clamp the panels in front edge of the wall cabinet. Add the thickness of the door to
position while you drive the screws through the inside face of determine the width of the wall cabinet side cover panel.
the wall frame posts. Drill a 1⁄8"-dia. pilot hole and countersink
for each screw 1⁄8 to ¼" into the 2 × 4 so the screw goes into
the plywood about 3⁄8".
Check to make sure all speaker cables or other determine the width of each backsplash panel. Cut
component cables that are coming from other areas of the backsplash panels to size. Cut on the back, or
the room are routed to the area behind the wall frame apply a strip of masking tape over the cutline and
before concealing that wall with the cover panels. In use a plywood cutting blade with a high tooth count
this case, no additional speakers were installed so no (80 tpi tablesaw blade and 60 tpi circular saw blade)
additional speaker cables were routed to the media to prevent the finished surface from chipping. If there
center. The cables that run between the TV, sound is an outlet installed in the backsplash area, then cut
bar speaker, and components in the cabinet are routed openings in the panel to fit around the wall outlet.
after the cabinet construction is complete. Attach the backsplash panels with panel adhesive.
Avoid driving fasteners through the face of Cut the two frame-side cover panels to size. Cut
the cover panels so that you don’t have to fill in or the cover panels with a tablesaw or circular saw and
conceal any fastener marks. Each panel is attached straightedge guide. Apply panel adhesive to the back
with screws and/or panel adhesive. Drive the face of each panel, clamp them to the wall frame and
screws through the inside face of the cabinet or secure them with screws driven through the frame
wall frame. Panel adhesive is a type of construction studs and into the side panel covers (photo 6).
adhesive that has a high initial adhesion and is Cut the wall frame front panels to size. The cover
typically sold in a caulk tube (follow manufacturer panel stock features one finished edge. Install the
application instructions). wall frame front panels with the finished edges on
Measure the width of the space below the wall the outside and butt together the unfinished edges at
cabinets and divide that measurement by two to the middle seam. If you are using a cover panel stockProof 1
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Text SLC Page:238
that does not feature a finished edge, then you must INSTALL THE COMPONENTS
cover the unfinished edge with heat-activated veneer Follow the manufacturer instructions to install the
edge tape or solid wood edging. Attach the panels to TV mounting bracket. Drive the mounting bracket
the frame with panel adhesive. No screws are used to anchor screws into the wall frame posts. Next, drill a
secure the front panels. 2-inch-diameter access hole through the front panel
Determine the required width of the wall cabinet (photo 9). If you are installing a speaker above the TV,
side panel (photo 7). Cut the wall cabinet side cover then drill a ¾-inch-diameter hole behind the speaker
panel to size. Clamp it to the wall cabinet side and location to route the speaker cable.
attach it by driving 1-inch screws through the inside Fish the component cables and speaker cable
of the cabinet side. Then attach the base cabinet side through the access holes and behind the front panels.
panel (photo 8). Finally, attach the toe-kick panels, Follow the manufacturer instructions to secure the TV
doors, and drawers. to the mounting bracket and mount the speaker.
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
8 9
Attach the wall and base cabinet side panels. Clamp Use a 2" hole saw to bore an access hole through the wall
the panel to the cabinet side and drive 1" screws through the frame front panel. This hole should be located directly above
inside face of the cabinet side. Then install the toe-kicks. the notch in the countertop and close to the TV mounting
bracket so that the TV will conceal it.
Proof 1
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C LU B BA R
O wning your own in-house bar makes a statement
about you. For some, it might say “I have arrived
and this is my space!” While for others a bar might
say “Welcome, friends, our home is your home.” And
for others, well, let’s just say the possibilities are fairly
wide-ranging. But whatever story your bar tells—be it
one of quiet aperitifs before dining, casual afternoons
watching the big game, or raucous evenings of wild This compact corner bar design features glossy
revelry—building your bar yourself personalizes the black MDF aprons with decorative cherry appliqués
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
tale and adds a feature to your home that will have a forming a horizontal grid pattern on the aprons. A cherry
direct impact on how well you enjoy your home life. plywood bartop sits atop a 2 × 6 L-shaped kneewall,
The bar shown here is sleekly styled and smartly harboring some practical amenities on the bartender
laid out for the efficient barkeeper. A small refrigerator side. A flip-up lift gate in the bartop on one end provides
gives you access to cold drinks and ice while convenient pass-through access and can even function as a wait
cabinets create excellent storage spots for party favors. station if you want to get really fancy in your hosting.
While this is a “dry bar” (no plumbing), the design The key components—base cabinets, a laminate
could be modified in any number of ways to add running countertop, the fridge, and the wood for a sleek Asian-
water if you wish. All you need to get the party started is inspired style trim-out—set the stage for your next
a GFCI electrical outlet and the proper floor space. gathering. Let’s party.Proof 1
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Club Bar
F
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
G G
C C G
E D
L
K
H
A A
H B
B
A B B
A
J
I
N
M
Proof 1
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Tools, Materials & Cutting List
Eye and ear protection (1) ¾ × 4 × 8 particleboard (12" wide doors)
Work gloves (1) ¾ × 4 × 8 cherry plywood Refrigerator (19w 22d 32¾" h)
Miter saw for bartop Postform countertop
Tablesaw (2) 6' strips ½ × 16" (mitered, 6' each leg)
Circular saw cementboard 16d common nails
Drill/driver 20 sq. ft. 4 × 4 wall tile Panel adhesive
Level Thinset and grout Deck screws
Stud finder ¾" thick cherry—2 @ 8 × 42" 1½" drywall screws
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Router (actual) Finish nails (4d, 6d)
Pull saw ¾ × 1½" cherry Finishing materials
Flat bar approx 80 lineal ft. Glue
Pneumatic nailer/compressor (2) ½" × 4 × 8' MDF Piano hinge
Combination square 24" base cabinet Primer and paint
(10) 2 × 6" × 8' SPF 36" base cabinet—corner
Key No. Desc. Size Material
A 4 Sill/header 11⁄2 × 51⁄2 × 68" 2×6
B 11 Stud 11⁄2 × 51⁄2 × 38" 2×6
C 2 Bartop ¾ × 16 ⁄2 × 80"
1
Cherry plywood
D 1 Bar substrate ¾ × 16 ⁄2 × 80"
1
Particleboard
E 1 Bar substrate ¾ × 16 ⁄2 × 65 ⁄4"
1 1
Particleboard
F 2 Lift gate ¾ × 16 ⁄2 × 22 ⁄4"
1 1
Cherry plywood
G - Bartop trim ¾ × 1 ⁄2" × cut to fit Cherry
1
H 2 End cap ¾ × 73⁄4 × 41" Cherry
I 7 Trim stiles ¾ × 11⁄2 × 41" Cherry
J 16 Trim rails ¾ × 11⁄2 × cut to fit Cherry
K 1 Countertop cleat 1 ⁄2 × 1 ⁄2 × 22"
1 1
2×2
L 1 Lift gate stop block ¾ × 1 ⁄2 × 18"
1
Cherry
M 1 Apron ½ × 40 ⁄2 × 68 ⁄4"
1 3
MDF
N 1 Apron ½ × 40 ⁄2 × 73½"
1
MDFProof 1 2 T
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■ HOW TO BU I L D A C LU B BA R
1 2
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Anchor the sill plates for the kneewalls to the floor so Use panel adhesive and deck screws to attach the end
they form a right angle at the corner where they meet. kneewall stud to the back wall, attaching at a stud location.
If there’s no stud, open the wall and insert a horizontal nailer
between the nearest studs.
BUILD THE KNEEWALLS Next, make the stud wall corner. Use 16d
The bar top is supported by a pair of heavy-duty 2 × 6 common nails to toenail the studs to the sill plates
kneewalls that are anchored to the wall and floor and (photo 3). Install a stud at the free end of the return,
meet in an L. This configuration presumes that you’ll then fill in with evenly spaced intermediate studs
be installing the bar in the corner of the room. If that spaced no more than 16 inches apart. Cut cap plates
configuration doesn’t work for your space, you can use the same size as the sill plates and install them with
similar building strategies, but redesign the project as three 16d common nails driven through the tops of
a straight-line or a U-shape bar. the caps and into the end of each wall stud (photo 4).
Cut the 2 × 6 sill plates to length (68 inches). Check each stud with a level before nailing.
Measure out from the corner the distance of the
sill plates plus the pass-through opening width plus MAKE THE APRONS AND TRIM
¾ inch for the thickness of the end panel (92¾ inches The decorative front aprons for this bar are
here). Mark a reference line and lay a sill plate at made from ½-inch-thick MDF (medium-density
this distance, perpendicular to the back project wall. fiberboard) panels that have a glossy black finish
Arrange the second sill plate so the end overlaps the and are trimmed with strips of cherry arranged in a
open end of the first sill plate and the two form a staggered ladder pattern. If you’re feeling ambitious,
perfect 90-degree angle. Join the corners with screws apply a genuine black lacquer finish. Or, you can
or a metal connector to keep them from moving during come close to the black lacquer look with a quality
installation, and then anchor the sill plates to the floor. satin or gloss jet black enamel paint. Either way, for
Use 16d common nails or screws (shown in photo 1) the smoothest possible finish, cut and prepare the
and panel adhesive for a wood floor; use a powder- panels and spray on the black lacquer finish with
actuated nailer on a concrete floor. an HVLP sprayer. Rip two sheets of ½-inch MDF
Once the sills are in place, attach the end stud to 40½ inches wide and then trim them to length to
against the back wall. If you are lucky (or planned make the bar front panels. Sand the edges to remove
well) the stud will fall over a wall stud. If the new any saw marks. Then, apply primer to all faces and
kneewall falls over a stud bay in the room wall, you’ll edges. When the primer dries, spray black lacquer
need to remove some wallcovering and install a nailing or paint onto the front face and edges (photo 5). If
cleat between the closest wall studs so you have a very you do not have access to a good sprayer, use a paint
sturdy surface to anchor the end of the wall (photo 2). roller with a short-nap sleeve.
Proof 1
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3 4
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Toenail the corner studs to the sill plates. Use a level to Complete the framing for the L-shaped kneewall section.
make sure the studs are vertical. For extra strength, drive a few 3" deck screws through the
studs where they meet at the corner.
5 6
For the smoothest possible finish, spray the front apron Prepare at least 80' lineal of ¾ × 1½" hardwood stock to
panels with an HVLP sprayer. Apply the paint or lacquer over trim out the aprons and edges of the bartop.
primer, in thin coats.
After installation, the black aprons will be other half of the stock will be used for edging the
decorated with a grid made from strips of cherry. countertop. You’ll need to cut an edge profile in this
You can use dimensional 1 × 2 cherry for this, but stock and attach it to the countertop before finishing it.
you’ll save a lot of money and get better edges if you
purchase random width cherry, then plane and joint INSTALL THE KNEEWALL COVERINGS
it to thickness and rip it to width (photo 6). For the The front faces of the L-shaped kneewall are
project shown here, you’ll need at least 40 lineal feet covered with the aprons and apron trim. The back
of stock for the apron trim, plus another 40 feet for sides (the bartender view) can be covered with just
the bar countertop edging. about anything you wish. We used a cement board
Sand the edges of the cherry trim to remove saw backer and some wall tile for a nice looking wall
marks and smooth the surfaces. Apply a clear protective covering that’s durable and easy to clean. It’s easier
wood finish, such as wipe-on polyurethane varnish, to install these wallcoverings before the bartop has
to half the stock for use as apron trim (photo 7). The been installed.Proof 1
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You don’t need to create full toe-kick recesses at Depending on what type of cabinets you’re
the bottoms of the apron panels, although you certainly installing, it likely is not necessary to finish the inside
can if you wish. But it is a good idea to install the faces of the kneewalls lower than the countertop
MDF aprons so they are not in contact with the floor, height. For installing wall tile, we cut 16-inch-wide
especially if your installation is going into a basement strips of ½-inch-thick cement board and attached
or any other area that may be subject to moisture them to the wall studs flush with the top of the cap
problems. The easiest way to do this is simply to cut plate (photo 10). Make sure that seams fall over studs.
a piece of ¼-inch-thick sheet stock scrap and slip it Install the wall tile (photo 11). We used
up against the sill plate. Then, test the fit of the apron inexpensive 4 × 4-inch ceramic wall tile set into a
panels. Trim if needed, then apply beads of panel layer of thinset adhesive that’s troweled onto the
adhesive to the front edges of the wall frame members cement board. Whichever wall covering you use, it
(photo 8) and attach the aprons with a pneumatic should extend down past the top of the countertop (in
nailer and 2½-inch finish nails (photo 9). You can this case, the top of the preformed backsplash), and
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
hand-nail them at wall stud locations with 6d finish the edges should be covered by the end panel you’ll be
nails if you prefer. Cover nail heads with wood putty. installing at the free end of the kneewall.
7 8
For efficiency, apply a protective finish to the cherry apron Apply panel adhesive to the kneewall studs to strengthen
trim stock. Dab some finish on the cut ends after you cut each the bond with the black aprons. Slip a ¼-thick spacer beneath
trim piece to length. each apron to create a gap between the panel and the floor.
9 10
Nail the apron panels to the wall studs at 8 to 12" intervals. Attach cement board strips to the edges of the kneewall
framing members as a backer for the backsplash area.
Proof 1
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11 12
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Install the inside wallcovering before you cap the wall. Bond the particleboard subbase directly to the top plates
of the kneewalls, taking care to achieve even overhangs of 6"
in front and 4" on the bartender side of the walls.
13 14
Drive plenty of 2" deck screws to secure the subbase Make 45-degree miter cuts in the bartop top layer using a
to the walls. The screw heads must be sunk beneath the circular saw and cutting guide.
wood surface.
INSTALL THE BARTOP Rip the particleboard to 16½ inches wide and
The bartop installed here is made of a particleboard then crosscut it to length (one piece is longer so
subbase that’s thoroughly bonded and screwed to the they can be butted together). Attach the strips to
top plates of the kneewall. A cherry plywood top layer the top plates of the kneewalls using panel adhesive
then is attached to the narrow particleboard subbase. and countersunk deck screws (photo 12). Make sure
The subbase is laid out with a butt joint at the corner to align the subbase strips carefully. They should
for ease and for strength, but for a more refined overhang the kneewalls by roughly 6 inches in front
appearance the plywood top is mitered at the corner. and 4 inches in back.
When ¾-inch-thick cherry edging is added on all sides, Once you have both subbase parts arranged
the bartop grows to a finished width of 18 inches (a perfectly, drive 2-inch deck screws through the
normal countertop, such as the bartender’s countertop subbase and into the bar wall (photo 13). Be very
on the cabinets below, is 25 inches wide). generous here. If you can’t get the screw headsProof 1
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15 16
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Laminate the top layer of cherry plywood to the subbase Cut a roundover profile in one edge of the cherry edging
with panel adhesives and 1¼" screws driven up through stock and then cut the parts to length and attach them to the
the subbase. edges of the bartop with nails and glue.
17 18
Square-cut a piece of 1 × 2 edging to fit exactly between the Nail the cherry end panel to the wall end to conceal the
ends of the roundover edging, and nail and glue it into place. stud wall and the edges of the wallcoverings and trim.
to seat beneath the surface of the subbase, drill screws driven up through the subbase and into the
counter-sunk pilot holes. underside of the plywood layer (photo 15). Make
Cut the cherry plywood sheet into 16½ inches sure the mitered corner fits together correctly before
wide strips, then cut mating miter joints at the ends applying any adhesive or cutting the plywood strips
(photo 14). Take care here: most hardwood plywood to length Tip: Wait until the plywood layer is attached
has one side that is much nicer, so be sure the cuts are to the subbase to cut the strip on the free end to length.
made so the correct faces will be facing up when the That way, you can cut it and the subbase at the same
bartop is installed. A circular saw with a sharp panel- time and ensure that they are exactly flush.
cutting blade and a straightedge guide may be used to Check to make sure the edges of the glued-up
make these cuts. bartop are smooth and flat, and sand with a belt
Attach the top layer of cherry plywood to the sander if they are out of alignment or there is a lot
subbase with panel adhesive and 1¼-inch wallboard of glue squeeze-out (use fine-grit sandpaper to help
Proof 1
(continued)
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prevent any splintering of the veneer layer). Mount a opposite side of the pass-through so the two strips
½-inch roundover bit in a router or router table and are perfectly aligned.
cut roundover profiles along one edge of the 1 × 2 Cut a strip of 1 × 2 cherry to 18 inches long and
stock you dressed to use for bartop edging. Attach the attach it to the wall, centered over the 8-inch-wide
edging strips to the countertop with glue and 4d finish end panel (photo 19). This strip will function as
nails driven into pilot holes (photo 16). Make sure the stop for the lift gate section of countertop. For
the tops of the edging boards are flush with or slightly consistency, roundover the top edges of the 1 × 2 so it
higher than the plywood surface. If necessary, sand the looks like a section of countertop.
edging until it is flush after you remove the clamps. Attach a piano hinge to the square-cut mating
At the open countertop end, extend the edging ¾ inch edge of the lift gate countertop section (photo 20).
past the end of the glued-up layers. The barrel of the piano hinge should be oriented
Cut a piece of 1 × 2 edging to fit between the upward relative to the bartop surface. Attach the
ends of the edging on the open end of the countertop other leaf of the piano hinge to the edge of the main
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
and attach it with glue and finish nails (photo 17). countertop and test to see if it opens and closes easily
Sand all wood surfaces. Apply multiple coats of very and is level when open (photo 21).
durable, glossy polyurethane varnish to achieve a Cut the cherry trim pieces to size to make the
protective built-up finish. Also paint the underside ladder grids that decorate the aprons. Install the strips,
of the bartop black where it is visible. Build the lift following the patterns shown in photo 22. Make sure
gate section of the countertop as well and finish it the the ends of the strips are tucked flush against the
same way, except make it from two layers of cherry inside face of the cherry end panel.
plywood and apply a clear finish to both faces.
INSTALL THE CABINETS
INSTALL TRIM & HARDWARE You can appoint the bartender’s area of the Club Bar
Rip-cut a strip of cherry that’s slightly wider than just about any way you wish because the bartop and
the distance from the tiled wall surface to ¾ inch wall are freestanding, independent structures. We
past the apron fronts (about 8 inches) and then cut chose to install a couple of base cabinets, a dorm-size
it to fit between the floor and the underside of the refrigerator and an economical, low-maintenance
bartop, which should overhang the end wall stud postform countertop. Start by placing the corner
by ¾ inch or slightly more (photo 18). Cut another cabinet in the corner. Place the 24-inch cabinet to the
identical strip. Attach one strip to the end of the right of the corner cabinet. Flush up the face frames
kneewall and attach the other to the wall on the (if they have them; the ones seen here are frameless)
19 20
Attach a 1 × 2 stop block for the lift gate to the wall directly Attach the piano hinge to the lift gate section of the
above the wall-mounted end panel. countertop first, then attach the other leaf to the countertop.Proof 1
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21 22
CABINETS, COUNTERTOPS & STORAGE PROJECTS
Attach the lift gate to the countertop and test to make Add the decorative cherry strips in a ladder grid pattern,
sure it operates smoothly and correctly. using an air nailer. Start with the vertical strips, then cut the
horizontals to fit.
23 24
Attach a countertop to the base cabinets to create an Slide in a refrigerator, kegerator or any appliance
easy-to-clean worksurface for the bartender. you choose.
and clamp the cabinets together with bar clamps. in and slide in your refrigerator (photo 24) and add a
Predrill, countersink, and screw the face frames or couple of strands of holiday lights or any other décor
cabinets sides together. you fancy.
Install a countertop for the bartender (photo 23).
We chose an inexpensive postform countertop with PARTY TIME
a precut mitered corner. If you’ve left one end of Invite friends and family to gather ’round. As they say
the bar open for a refrigerator, install a wall cleat to in Latin: Res ipsa loquitur: “The thing speaks for itself.”
support the countertop above the refrigerator. Plug Or, as one of your friends might say: “It’s beer-thirty.”
Proof 1
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WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTSProof 1
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WINDOW & DOOR
PROJEC T S
W indows and doors are the portals to your home
lifestyle—the openings that allow air and light
into your home and keep your home and its individual
rooms secure against intruders and the weather. They
are also important décor elements; changing out ho-
hum slab doors for elegant panel-and-frame doors, for
example, can radically transform the look of any home.
Doors and windows get more stress than almost any
structural part of your home, since they are opening and
closing constantly and are subject to wear and tear from
the outdoor elements. Live in any home long enough
and chances are good that you will need to replace or
upgrade some or all of the windows and doors.
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Window and door projects often come into play
during major remodeling projects, such as when
previously unused spaces are being converted to
living space, or when a major room addition is being
constructed. Very often these projects involve framing
and installing windows where none existed before. Other
space renovation projects, such as remodeling kitchens
or bathrooms, may call for the addition of skylights,
greenhouse windows, patio doors, or other features.
This chapter offers a wide sampling of window
and door projects, ranging from simple replacement
to whole-scale framing and installation. While some
are common, tried-and-true undertakings, others
represent unique window and door projects rarely
found in other books.
■ IN THIS CHAPTER:
• Planning & Preparation
• Replacing Basement Windows
• New Window Sash
• Framing & Installing Windows
• Installing an Egress Window
• Framing a Window in a Gable Wall
• Garden Windows
• Bay Windows
• Glass Block Windows
• Tubular Skylights
• Framing an Exterior Door
• French Doors
• Hanging a New Door in an Old Jamb
• Entry Doors
• Storm Doors
• Attic Access Ladders
Proof 1
• Walkout Patio Doors
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PL A N N I NG & PR E PA R AT ION
A n important early step in your remodeling
project is to carefully measure the windows and
doors that you wish to replace. You will use these
To create floor plans, draw one story at a time.
First, measure each room from wall to wall. Transfer
the room’s dimensions onto ¼-inch grid paper, using a
measurements to purchase the new unit, and you scale of ¼ inch = 1 foot Label each room for its use and
must be sure it will fit in the opening. note its overall dimensions. Include wall thicknesses,
To finalize your project ideas and make sure which you can determine by measuring the widths of
they will really work, the next step is to put all the window and door jambs—do not include the trim.
information down on paper. There are two basic types Next, add these elements to your drawings:
of construction drawings: floor plans and elevation
drawings. These drawings may be required if your • Windows and doors; note which way the
project needs a building permit. doors swing.
Floor plans show a room as seen from • Stairs and their direction as it relates to each story.
above. These are useful for showing overall room • Permanent features such as plumbing fixtures,
dimensions, layouts, and the relationship between major appliances, countertops, built-in furniture,
neighboring rooms. Elevation drawings show a side and fireplaces.
view of a room, usually with one wall per drawing. • Overhead features such as exposed beams or wall
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Elevations are made for both the interior and exterior cabinets—use dashed lines.
of a house and generally show more architectural • Plumbing, electrical, and HVAC elements. You
detail than floor plans. may want a separate set of drawings for these
Both floor plans and elevation drawings provide mechanical elements and service lines.
you with a method for planning and recording • Overall dimensions measured from outside the
structural and mechanical systems for your project. home. Use these to check the accuracy of interior
They also help the local building department to ensure dimensions.
your project meets code requirements.
If you will be doing several projects in a short To create elevation drawings, use the same
time, you may want to draw a plan of each complete ¼ inch = 1 foot scale, and draw everything you see on
floor of the home. If you’re doing one isolated project, one wall (each room has four elevations). Include:
you may want to draw the plan of just that room.
• Ceiling heights and the heights of significant
features such as soffits and exposed beams.
• Windows, including the height and width of the
sills and tops of the openings.
• Doors, including the heights (from the floor to
the top of the opening) and widths.
• Trim and other decorative elements.
When your initial floor plans and elevations are
done, use them to sketch your remodeling layout options.
Use tissue overlays to show hidden elements or proposed
changes to a plan. Photographs of your home’s interior
and exterior may also be helpful. Think creatively, and
draw many different sketches; the more design options
you consider, the better your final plans will be.
When you have completed your remodeling plans,
draft your final drawings and create a materials list for
A floor plan can help you envision how a new door or the project.
window will impact the living space and traffic patterns.Proof 1
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■ M E A SU R I NG W I N DOWS & DOOR S
A
A
B
B C
C
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Determine the exact size of your new window or door by measuring the opening carefully. For the width (left), measure
between the jack studs in three places: near the top, at the middle, and near the bottom of the opening. Use the same procedure
for the height (right), measuring from the header to the sill near the left edge, at the middle, and near the right edge of the opening.
Use the smallest measurement of each dimension for ordering the unit.
■ WOR K I NG W I T H PL A NS
Create elevation drawings showing a side view layout of windows and doors, as viewed from both inside and outside the home.
Indicate the size of windows and doors, ceiling heights, and the location of wiring and plumbing fixtures.
Proof 1
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R E PL AC I NG BA SE M E N T W I N DOWS
R eplacing an old and underperforming basement
window can accomplish much in conjunction with
your basement remodeling project. Newer windows
windows that are hinged on top, hopper windows
that are hinged on the bottom, and fixed windows.
Some glass block or acrylic block fixed windows
can allow more light in while keeping drafts out. They include a ventilation opening in lieu of one of
may have ventilation capabilities that older fixed the blocks.
windows lack. They can offer better security, especially If your basement window opening is not a
if you install a glass block window that does not let standard size, you have three options. You can have
people see inside but still allows light into the room. a window custom-made (not as expensive as it
Most home centers sell basement windows in sounds), you can remove the old window and enlarge
standard 32-inch-wide sizes (standard heights are 13, the opening, or you can shrink the opening by using
15, 17, 19, and 23 inches). The main types are awning thicker lumber for the rough frame.
BEFORE AFTER
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Basement windows are the only source of natural light, but they also can allow cold air or even intruders to enter. If you are
remodeling your basement, it makes sense to update old windows with new ones that offer better energy efficiency and security.
■ HOW TO R E PL AC E A BA SE M E N T W I N DOW
1 2
Remove the old window and inspect the rough frame. If Install the new rough frame using a powder-actuated tool
it shows signs of rot, remove the frame by cutting the sill to drive masonry nails. Apply several thick beads of caulk to
and header in half and prying the halves out. Cut new frame the concrete surfaces first to create a good seal. The header
members from pressure-treated dimension lumber. and sill should run the full width of the opening and be installed
before the side members. Caulk around the frame edges andProof 1
paint the frame with exterior primer.
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3 4
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Position the new window unit in the opening and test it Attach the window frame to the rough frame opening with
with a level. Use shims to raise it so it is not resting on the sill. screws driven through the jambs. Often, the screw is accessed
Adjust it so the gaps are even on the sides. Tip: You may find it through a hole in the inner jamb layer. Arrange shims so the
easier to adjust and install the window frame if you remove the screws will pass through them. Do not overdrive screws—it
glass sash first. can pull the window frame out of square.
5 6
Fill gaps between the rough window frame and the new Install stop molding on both sides of the window to cover
window unit with minimal expanding spray foam. Do not spray gaps between the window and the rough frame. Paint the stop
Proof 1
in too much—it can distort the frame when it dries. molding and frame to match your trim color.
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N E W W I N DOW SA SH
I f you’re looking to replace or improve old single- or
double-hung windows, consider using sash-replacement
kits. They can give you energy-efficient, maintenance-
Nearly all major window manufacturers offer sash-
replacement kits designed to fit their own windows.
You can also order custom kits that are sized to your
free windows without changing the outward appearance specific window dimensions. A good fit is essential
of your home or breaking your budget. to the performance of your new windows. Review
Unlike prime window replacement, which changes the tips shown on the next page for measuring your
the entire window and frame, or pocket window existing windows, and follow the manufacturer’s
replacement, in which a complete window unit is set instructions for the best fit.
into the existing frame, sash replacement uses the
original window jambs, eliminating the need to alter
exterior or interior walls or trim. Installing a sash- Tools & Materials ▸
replacement kit involves little more than removing the
old window stops and sashes and installing new vinyl Tape measure Jamb-liner brackets
jamb liners and wood or vinyl sash. And all of the work Sill-bevel gauge 1" galvanized roofing nails
can be done from inside your home. Flat pry bar Fiberglass insulation
Most sash-replacement kits offer tilt features and
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Scissors Finish nails
other contemporary conveniences. Kits are available Screwdriver Wood-finishing materials
in vinyl, aluminum, or wood construction with various Nail set Torpedo level
options for color and glazing, energy efficiency, Sash-replacement kit Eye and ear protection
security features, and noise reduction.
Upgrade old, leaky windows with new, energy-efficient sash-replacement kits. Kits are available in a variety of styles to match
your existing windows or to add a new decorative accent to your home. Most kits offer natural or painted interior surfaces and a
choice of outdoor surface finishes.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A N E W W I N DOW SA SH
1 2
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Measure the width of the existing window at the top, Check for a straight, level, and plumb sill, side, and head
middle, and bottom of the frame. Use the smallest measurement, jambs using a torpedo level. Measure the frame diagonally
then reduce the figure by 3⁄8". Measure the height of the existing to check for square (if the diagonal measurements are equal,
window from the head jamb to the point where the outside edge the frame is square). If the frame is not square, check with the
of the bottom sash meets the sill. Reduce the figure by 3⁄8". sash-kit manufacturer: Most window kits can accommodate
Note: Manufacturers’ specifications for window sizing may vary. some deviation in frame dimensions.
3 4
Carefully remove the interior stops from the side jambs, With the bottom sash down, cut the cord holding the sash,
using a putty knife or pry bar. Save the stops for reinstallation. balancing weight on each side of the sash. Let the weights and
cords fall into the weight pockets.
Proof 1
(continued)
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5 6
Lift out the bottom sash. Remove the parting stops from Position the jamb-liner brackets, and fasten them to the
the head and side jambs. (The parting stops are the strips of jambs with 1" galvanized roofing nails. Place one bracket
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
wood that separate the top and bottom sash.) Cut the sash approximately 4" from the head jamb and one 4" from the sill.
cords for the top sash, then lift out the top sash. Remove the Leave 1⁄16" clearance between the blind stop and the jamb-liner
sash-cord pulleys. If possible, pull the weights from the weight bracket. Install any remaining brackets, spacing them evenly
pockets at the bottom of the side jambs, then fill the weight along the jambs.
pockets with fiberglass insulation. Repair any parts of the
jambs that are rotted or damaged.
7 8
Position any gaskets or weatherstripping provided Set the sash control mechanism, using a slotted
for the jamb liners. Carefully position each liner against its screwdriver. Gripping the screwdriver firmly, slide down
brackets and snap it into place. When both liners are installed, the mechanism until it is about 9" above the sill, then turn
set the new parting stop into the groove of the existing head the screwdriver to lock the mechanism and prevent it from
jamb, and fasten it with small finish nails. Install a vinyl sash springing upward. The control mechanisms are spring-
stop in the interior track at the top of each liner to prevent the loaded—do not let them go until they are locked in place. Set
bottom sash from being opened too far. the mechanism in each of the four sash channels.Proof 1
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9 10
Install the top sash into the jamb liners. Set the cam pivot Install the bottom sash into the jamb liners, setting it
on one side of the sash into the outside channel. Tilt the sash, into the inside sash channels. When the bottom sash is set in
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
and set the cam pivot on the other side of the sash. Make the vertical position, slide it down until it engages the control
sure both pivots are set above the sash control mechanisms. mechanisms. Open and close both sashes to make sure they
Holding the sash level, tilt it up, depress the jamb liners on operate properly.
both sides, and set the sash in the vertical position in the jamb
liners. Once the sash is in position, slide it down until the cam
pivots contact the locking terminal assemblies.
11 12
Reinstall the stops that you removed in step 1. Fasten Check the tilt operation of the bottom sash to make sure
them with finish nails, using the old nail holes, or drill new pilot the stops do not interfere. Remove the labels, and clean the
holes for the nails. windows. Paint or varnish the new sashes as desired.
Proof 1
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F R A M I NG & I NSTA L L I NG W I N DOWS
M any windows must be custom-ordered several
weeks in advance. To save time, you can
complete the interior framing before the window unit
arrives, but be sure you have the exact dimensions of
the window unit before building the frame. Do not
remove the outside wall surface until you have the
window and accessories and are ready to install them.
Follow the manufacturer’s specifications for rough
opening size when framing for a window. The listed
opening is usually 1 inch wider and ½ inch taller
than the actual dimensions of the window unit. The
following pages show techniques for wood-frame
houses with platform framing.
If your house has balloon framing where wall
studs pass continuously from one floor to the next,
use the method shown on page 262 to install a header.
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Consult a professional to install a window on the
second story of a balloon-framed house.
If your house has masonry walls or if you are
installing polymer-coated windows, you may want
to attach your window using masonry clips instead
of nails.
If your home’s exterior has siding, see pages
282, 284, and 322 to 323 for tips on removing these
surfaces and making the opening.
Tools & Materials ▸
Tape measure Self-adhesive flashing
Pencil 10d common nails,
Combination square 1" galvanized
Hammer roofing nails
Level Shims
Circular saw 2× lumber
Handsaw 1
⁄8" plywood
Pry bar Building paper
Nippers Drip edge
Drill 10d galvanized
Reciprocating saw casing nails
Stapler 8d casing nails
Nail set Fiberglass insulation
Caulk gun Paintable silicone caulk
Zip tool Eye and ear protection
Correct framing techniques will ensure ease of installation Chisel
and keep your windows operating smoothly.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO F R A M E A W I N DOW OPE N I NG
1 2 3
Prepare the project site and remove Measure and cut the king studs, as Check the king studs with a level to
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
the interior wall surfaces (page 262). needed, to fit between the sole plate make sure they are plumb, then toenail
Measure and mark the rough opening and the top plate. Position the king them to the top plate with 10d nails.
width on the sole plate. Mark the studs and toenail them to the sole plate
locations of the jack studs and king with 10d nails.
studs on the sole plate. Where practical,
use the existing studs as king studs.
4 5 King
6 Old
stud Old
stud King
stud
stud
Top of Double
header sill
Measuring from the floor, mark the Measure and mark where the top of Measure down from the header
top of the rough opening on one of the window header will fit against the line and mark the double rough sill
the king studs. This line represents the king studs. The header size depends on the king stud. Use a carpenter’s
bottom of the window header. For most on the distance between the king level to extend the lines across the old
windows, the recommended rough studs. Use a carpenter’s level to extend studs to the opposite king stud. Make
opening is ½" taller than the height of the lines across the old studs to the temporary supports if removing more
the window frame. opposite king stud. than one stud.
Proof 1
(continued)
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7 8
Cripple stud
Bottom
of sill Top of
header
Bottom
of sill
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Set a circular saw to its maximum blade depth, then cut Knock out the 3" stud sections, then tear out the old
through the old studs along the lines marking the bottom of studs inside the rough opening, using a pry bar. Clip away any
the rough sill and along the lines marking the top of the header. exposed nails, using nippers. The remaining sections of the
Do not cut the king studs. On each stud, make an additional cut studs will serve as cripple studs for the window.
cut about 3" above the sill cut. Finish the cuts with a handsaw.
Built-up Header
9 Construction
adhesive
2× 10
Plywood
2×
Build a header to fit between the king studs on top of the Cut two jack studs to reach from the top of the sole plate to
jack studs, using two pieces of 2× lumber sandwiched around the bottom header lines on the king studs. Nail the jack studs
½" plywood. to the king studs with 10d nails driven every 12". Note: On a
balloon-framed house the jack studs will reach to the sill plate.Proof 1
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11 12
King stud
Rough
Cripple opening
stud
Jack
stud Header
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Position the header on the jack studs, using a hammer if Build the rough sill to reach between the jack studs by
necessary. Attach the header to the king studs, jack studs, and nailing a pair of 2 × 4s together. Position the rough sill on the
cripple studs, using 10d nails. cripple studs, and nail it to the jack studs and cripple studs
with 10d nails.
■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A R E PL ACE M E N T W I N DOW W I T H A NA I L I NG F L A NG E
1 2
Remove the existing window (see pages 257 and 258), Remove exterior siding around the window area to
and set the new window into the rough opening. Center it left expose the wall sheathing. Use a zip tool to separate vinyl
to right, and shim beneath the sill to level it. On the exterior siding for removal or use a pry bar and hammer to remove
side, measure out from the window on all sides, and mark the wood clapboard. For more on removing exterior surfaces, see
siding for the width of the brick molding you’ll install around pages 282, 284, and 322 to 323.
the new window. Extend layout lines to mark where you’ll cut
the siding.
Proof 1
(continued)
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3 4
Cover the sill and rough opening framing members with Apply a bead of silicone caulk around the back face of the
self-adhesive, rolled flashing. Apply additional strips of flashing window flange, then set it into the rough opening, centering
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
behind the siding and up the sill flashing. Finish flashing with it side-to-side in the opening. Tack the window in place by
a strip along the header. The flashing should cover the front driving one roofing nail partway through the top flange. On the
edges and sides of the opening members. interior side, level and plumb the window, using shims to make
any necessary adjustments.
5 6
Tack the window to the header at one end of the nailing Install a piece of metal drip edge behind the siding and
flange, using a 1" galvanized roofing nail. Drive a roofing nail above the window. Secure it with silicone caulk only.
through the other top corner of the flange to hold the window in
place, then secure the flange all around the window with more
roofing nails. Apply strips of rolled, self-adhesive flashing to cover
the window flanges. Start with a strip that covers the bottom
flange, then cover the side flanges, overlapping the bottom
flashing and extending 8 to 10" above the window. Complete the
flashing with a strip along the top, overlapping the side flashing.Proof 1
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7 8
Cut and attach brick molding around the window, Use high-quality caulk to fill the gap between the brick
leaving a slight gap between the brick molding and the window molding and the siding. On the interior side, fill gaps between
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
frame. Use 8d galvanized casing nails driven into pilot holes the window frame and surrounding framing with foam backer
to secure the brick molding to the rough framing. Miter the rod, low-expansion foam, or fiberglass insulation. Install the
corner joints. Reinstall the siding in the window installation interior casing.
area, trimming as needed.
Tip Installation Variation: Masonry Clips ▸
Use metal masonry clips when the brick molding on a window cannot be nailed because it rests against a masonry
or brick surface. The masonry clips hook into precut grooves in the window jambs (above, left) and are attached to the
jambs with screws. After the window unit is positioned in the rough opening, the masonry clips are bent around the
framing members and anchored with screws (above, right). Note: Masonry clips can also be used in ordinary lap siding
installations if you want to avoid making nail holes in the smooth surface of the brick moldings. For example, windows
that are precoated with polymer-based paint can be installed with masonry clips so that the brick moldings are not
punctured with nails.
Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A ROU N D -TOP W I N DOW
1 2
Mullion
post
Remove the exterior wall surface as directed on pages Trace the outline of the brick molding on the wood
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
282, 284, and 322 to 323, then test-fit the window, centering it siding. Remove the window after finishing the outline. Note:
in the rough opening. Support the window with wood blocks If you have vinyl or metal siding, you should have enlarged
and shims placed under the side jambs and mullion post. the outline to make room for the extra J-channel moldings
Check to make sure the window is plumb and level, and adjust required by these sidings.
the shims, if necessary.
Tips for Framing a Round-Top Window ▸
Create a template to help you mark the rough opening Tape the template to the sheathing, with the top
on the sheathing. Scribe the outline of the curved frame flush against the header. Use the template as a guide
on cardboard, allowing an extra ½" for adjustments within for attaching diagonal framing members across the top
the rough opening. A ¼ × 1¼" metal washer makes a corners of the framed opening. The diagonal members
good spacer for scribing the outline. Cut out the template should just touch the template. Outline the template
along the scribed line. on the sheathing as a guide for cutting the exterior
wall surface.Proof 1
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3 4
Cut the siding along the outline just down to the Cut 8"-wide strips of building paper and slide them
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
sheathing. For a round-top window, use a reciprocating saw between the siding and sheathing around the entire window
held at a low angle. For straight cuts, use a circular saw opening. Bend the paper around the framing members and
adjusted so the blade cuts through only the siding. Use a sharp staple it in place. Work from the bottom up, so each piece
chisel to complete the cuts at the corners. overlaps the piece below. Note: You can also use adhesive-
backed, rolled flashing instead of building paper.
5 6
Cut a length of drip edge to fit over the top of the window, Insert the window in the opening, and push the brick
then slide it between the siding and building paper. For round- molding tight against the sheathing. Nail through the brick
top windows, use flexible vinyl drip edge; for rectangular molding, as usual, to secure the window in the opening.
windows, use rigid metal drip edge (inset).
Proof 1
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I NSTA L L I NG A N EG R E S S W I N DOW
A n egress window brings a pleasant source of natural
light and ventilation to a dark, dank basement.
More importantly, it can provide a lifesaving means of
temperature fluctuations just like any other above-
grade window in your home.
The second fundamental component of a basement
escape in the event of a fire. Before you proceed with this egress window project is the subterranean escape well you
project, read more about building code issues regarding install outside the foundation. There are several options to
basement egress on page 15. Contact your local building choose from: prefabricated well kits made of lightweight
department to apply for the proper permits and to learn plastic that bolt together and are easy to install; corrugated
more about the code requirements for your area. metal wells that are a lower-cost option; or, a well built
As long as the window opens wide enough to from scratch using concrete, stone, or landscape timber.
meet minimum standards for egress, the particular Installing an egress window involves four major
window style is really up to you. Casement windows steps: digging the well, cutting a new or larger window
are ideal, because they crank open quickly and provide opening in the foundation, installing the window, and,
unobstructed escape. A tall, double-hung window or finally, installing the well. You’ll save time and effort if
wide sliding window can also work. Select a window you hire a backhoe operator to excavate the well. In most
with insulated glass and clad with vinyl or aluminum cases, you’ll also need a large concrete saw (available at
for durability; it will be subject to humidity and most rental stores) to cut the foundation wall.
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Tools & Materials ▸
Tape measure Window well
4' level and window
Stakes and string line Pea gravel
Shovel Plastic sheeting
Colored masking tape Self-tapping
Hammer drill with ½" masonry screws
dia. × 12- to 16"- 2× pressure-treated
long masonry bit lumber
Masonry saw Shims
Hand maul Insulation materials
Cold chisel Concrete sleeve anchors
Trowel Quick-curing concrete
Miter saw 3½" deck screws
Hammer Foam backer rod
Drill/driver, hammer Tamper
Replacing a small basement window with an egress Caulk and caulk gun Eye and ear protection
window is a big job, but it is required if you want to convert Gloves Dust maskProof 1
part of a basement into livable space, especially a bedroom.
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A N E G R E S S W I N DOW & W I N DOW W E L L
1 2
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Lay out the border of the window well area with stakes Excavate the well to a depth 6 to 12" deeper than the well’s
and string. Plan the length and width of the excavation to overall height to allow room for drainage gravel. Make sure to
be several feet larger than the window well’s overall size to have your local public utilities inspect the well excavation area
provide extra room for installation and adjustment. and okay it for digging before you start.
3 4
Measure and mark the foundation wall with brightly If the floor joists run perpendicular to your project wall,
colored masking tape to establish the overall size of the build a temporary support wall parallel to the foundation wall
window’s rough opening (here, we’re replacing an existing and 6 to 8' from it. Staple sheet plastic to the wall and floor
window). Be sure to take into account the window’s rough joists to form a work tent that will help control concrete dust.
opening dimensions, the thickness of the rough framing
(usually 2x stock), and the width of the structural header you
Proof 1 2 T
may need to build. Remember also that sill height must be
within 44" of the floor. Remove existing wall coverings inside
the layout area.
(continued)
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5 6
Drill reference holes at each bottom corner with a hammer Equip a masonry cutting saw (or large angle grinder) with a
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
drill and long masonry bit. These holes will provide reference diamond blade and set it for a ½" cut to score the blocks first.
points for cutting from both sides, ensuring clean breaks. Then reset the saw to full depth and make the final bottom and
side cuts through the blocks. Wear a tight-fitting particle mask,
ear and eye protection, and gloves for all of this cutting work;
the saw will generate a tremendous amount of thick dust. Feed
the saw slowly and steadily. Stop and rest periodically so the
dust can settle.
7 8
On the outside foundation wall, score the cuts, then make Strike the blocks with a hand maul to break or loosen the
full-depth cuts. block sections. When all the blocks are removed, carefully chip
away remaining debris with a cold chisel to create
flat surfaces.Proof 1
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9 10
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Fill the hollow voids in concrete block walls, with broken If your project requires a new header above the new
pieces of block, then level and smooth the voids by trowelling window, build it from pieces of 2× lumber sandwiching ½"
on a fresh layer of quick-curing concrete. Flatten the surfaces, plywood and fastened together with construction adhesive
and allow the concrete to dry overnight. and 10d nails. Slip it into place and tack it temporarily to the
mudsill with 3½" deck screws driven toenail style.
11 12
Cut the sill plate for the window’s rough frame from 2× Cut two pieces of treated lumber just slightly longer than
treated lumber that’s the same width as the thickness of the the opening so they’ll fit tightly between the new header and
foundation wall. Fasten the sill to the foundation with 3⁄16 × 3¼" sill. Tap them into place with a maul. Adjust them for plumb
countersunk masonry screws. Drill pilot holes for the screws and fasten them to the foundation with countersunk masonry
first with a hammer drill. screws or powder-actuated fasteners.
Proof 1
(continued)
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13 14
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Apply a thick bead of silicone caulk around the outside Attach the window’s nailing flanges to the rough frame
edges of the rough frame and set the window in its opening, with screws or nails, as specified by the manufacturer. Check
seating the nailing flanges into the caulk. Shim the window so the window action periodically as you fasten it to ensure that it
the frame is level and plumb. Test the action of the window to still operates smoothly.
make sure the shims aren’t bowing the frame.
15 16
Seal gaps between the rough frame and the foundation Fill the well excavation with 6 to 12" of pea gravel. This will
with a bead of exterior silicone or polyurethane caulk. If the serve as the window’s drain system. Follow the egress well
gaps are wider than ¼", insert a piece of backer rod first, then kit instructions to determine the exact depth required; you
cover it with caulk. On the interior, fill gaps around the window may need to add more gravel so the top of the well will be
shims with strips of foam backer rod, fiberglass insulation, or above the new window. Note: We added a drain down to the
a bead of minimally expanding spray foam. Do not distort the foundation’s perimeter tile for improved drainage as well.
window frame.Proof 1
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17 18
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Set the bottom section of the well into the hole, and Stack the second well section on top of the first, and
position it evenly from left to right relative to the window. connect the two with the appropriate fasteners.
Adjust the gravel surface to level the well section carefully.
19 20
Fasten the window well sections to the foundation wall When all the well sections are assembled and secured, nail
with concrete sleeve anchors driven into prebored pilot pieces of trim around the window frame to hide the nailing
holes. You could also use masonry nails driven with a powder- flange. Complete the well installation by using excavated dirt
actuated tool. to backfill around the outside of the well. Pack the soil with a
tamper, creating a slope for good drainage. If you are installing
a window well cover, set it in place and fasten it according to
the manufacturer’s instructions. The cover must be removable.
Proof 1
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F R A M I NG A W I N DOW I N A G A BL E WA L L
A lthough most windows in a home are located
in load-bearing exterior walls, standard attic
windows are commonly located in gable walls, which
in load-bearing gable walls. If you aren’t certain what
type of wall you have, consult a professional.
A common problem with framing in a gable wall
often are non-loadbearing. Installing a window in a is that the positions of the floor joists may make it
non-loadbearing gable wall is fairly simple and doesn’t difficult to attach new studs to the wall’s sole plate.
require a temporary support for the framing. Some One solution is to install an extra-long header and sill
gable walls, however, are load-bearing: A common between two existing studs, positioning them at the
sign is a heavy structural ridge beam that supports precise heights for the rough opening. You can then
the rafters from underneath, rather than merely at the adjust the width of the rough opening by installing
rafter ends. Hire a contractor to build window frames vertical studs between the header and sill.
Window frames
Header have full-length Tools & Materials ▸
king studs, as well
as jack studs that Tape measure Framed window or
King stud Jack support the header.
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
stud Circular saw door unit
The sill defines
Sill the bottom of the Handsaw 2 × 4 lumber
rough opening. Plumb bob 16d, 10d, and 8d
Cripple T-bevel common nails
stud ½"-thick plywood
4' level
Combination square Construction adhesive
Sole Eye and ear protection
plate
Reciprocating saw
■ HOW TO F R A M E A W I N DOW I N A G A BL E WA L L
1 2 3
Determine the rough opening width Using a plumb bob, transfer the king- Cut the king studs to length, angle-
by measuring the window unit and stud marks from the sole plate to the cutting the top ends so they meet flush
adding 1". Add 3" to that dimension to sloping top plates of the gable wall. with the top plates. Fasten each king
get the distance between the king studs. stud in place by toenailing the ends with
Mark the locations of the king studs three 8d nails.
onto the sole plate of the gable wall.Proof 1
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Text SLC Page:274
4 Top of
sill
5 6
Find the height of the rough Measure up from the top sill mark, Draw level cutting lines across the
opening by measuring the height of the and mark the height of the rough intermediate studs at the marks for the
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
window unit and adding ½". Measure up opening (bottom of header). Make bottom of the sill and top of the header.
from where the finished floor height will another mark 3½" up, to indicate the Cut along the lines with a reciprocating
be, and mark the top of the sill. Make a top of the header. Using a level, transfer saw, then remove the cutout portions.
second mark for the bottom of the sill, all of these marks to the other king stud The remaining stud sections will serve
3" down from the top mark. and to all intermediate studs. as cripple studs.
7 8 9
Cut the jack studs to reach from the Build a built-up header with 2 × 4s Build a sill to fit snugly between jack
sole plate to the bottom header marks and plywood (page 262). Size it to fit studs by nailing together two 2 × 4s.
on the king studs. Nail the jack studs to snugly between king studs. Set header Position the sill at the top sill markings,
the inside faces of the king studs using on top of jack studs. Nail through king and toenail it to the jack studs. Toenail
10d common nails driven every 16". studs into header with 16d nails, then the cripple studs to the sill. See pages
toenail jack studs and cripple studs to 282, 284, and 322 to 323 to remove the
header using 8d nails. exterior wall surface and pages 263 to
265 to install the window.
Proof 1
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G A R DE N W I N DOWS
A lthough often found in kitchens, a garden window
is an attractive option for nearly any room in your
home. Projecting out from the wall 16 to 24 inches,
flange that attaches to the framing and holds the
window against the house. Other models hang on
a separate mounting frame that attaches to the
garden windows add space to a room, making it feel outside of the house. In this project, the garden
larger. The glass roof and box-like design make them window has a built-in mounting sleeve that slides
ideal growing environments for plants or display areas for into the rough opening and is attached directly to the
collectibles. Garden windows also typically include front- rough framing.
or side-opening windows. These allow for ventilation and
are usually available in either awning or casement style.
Home stores often stock garden windows in
several common sizes. However, it may be difficult
Tools & Materials ▸
to locate a stock window that will fit in your existing Tape measure 2 × 4s
window rough opening. In cases like this you must Hammer Shims
rebuild the rough opening to the proper size. It may be Level Exterior trim
worth the added expense to custom-order your garden Framing square Building paper
window to fit into the existing rough opening.
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Circular saw 3" screws
The large amount of glass in a garden window Wood chisel Drip edge
has a direct effect on the window’s energy efficiency. Stapler Construction adhesive
When purchasing a garden window, as a minimum, Drill and bits 4d siding nails
look for double-pane glass with low-emissivity (low-E) Caulking gun 8d galvanized casing nails
coatings. More expensive super-efficient types of glass Utility knife Interior trim
are available for severely cold climates. Garden window kit Paintable silicone caulk
Installation methods for garden windows vary Wood strips Eye and ear protection
by manufacturer. Some units include a nailing
A garden window’s glass roof makes
it an ideal sun spot for houseplants, and it
can also help a room feel larger.Proof 1
2 76 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A G A R DE N W I N DOW
1 2
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Prepare the project site and remove the interior and Check the rough opening measurements to verify the
exterior trim, then remove the existing window (pages correct window sizing. The rough opening should be about ½"
257 to 258). larger than the window height and width. If necessary, attach
wood strips to the rough framing as spacers to bring the
opening to the required size.
3 4
Use a level to check that the sill of the rough opening is level Insert the garden window into the opening, pressing
and the side jambs are plumb. Use a framing square to make it tight against the framing. Support the unit with notched
sure each corner is square. The rough framing must be in 2 × 4s under the bottom edge of the window until it has been
good condition in order to support the weight of the garden fastened securely to the framing.
window. If the framing is severely deteriorated or out of plumb
or square, you may need to reframe the rough opening (pages
261 to 263).
Proof 1
(continued)
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5 6
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
The inside edge of the window sleeve should be flush Once the garden window is in place and level, hold a
with the interior wall surface. Check the sill of the garden piece of window trim in place along the exterior of the window
window for level. Shim beneath the lower side of the sill, if and trace the outline onto the siding. Remove the window. Cut
necessary, to make it level. the siding down to the sheathing using a circular saw.
7 8
Install strips of building paper between siding and Drill countersunk pilot holes every 12" to 16" through the
sheathing. Wrap them around the framing and staple them in window sleeve into the rough header, jack studs, and sill.
place. On the sides, work from the bottom up so each piece
overlaps the piece below. Reposition the window and reshim.Proof 1 2 T
Make sure the space between the window and the siding is
equal to the width of the trim on all sides.
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9 10
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Insert shims between the window sleeve and rough frame at Locate and mark the studs nearest the edges of the
each hole location along the top and sides to prevent bowing window using a stud finder. Cut two pieces of siding to fit
of the window frame. Fasten the window to the framing using behind the brackets, and tack them in place over the marked
3" screws. Continue checking for level, plumb, and square as studs with 4d siding nails. Position the support brackets with
the screws are tightened. the shorter side against the siding and the longer side beneath
the window. Fasten the brackets to the window and the studs
using the included screws.
11 12
Cut a piece of drip edge to length, apply construction Cut all protruding shims flush with the framing using
adhesive to its top flange, and slide it under the siding above a utility knife or handsaw. Insulate or caulk gaps between
the window. Cut each trim piece to size. Position the trim and the window sleeve and the wall. Finish the installation by
attach it using 8d galvanized casing nails driven through pilot reinstalling the existing interior trim or installing new trim.
holes. Seal the edges of the trim with a bead of paintable
silicone caulk, approximately 3⁄8" wide.
Proof 1
279CGHI_250-323_11984.indd 279 12/1/17 3:41 PM CGHI_250-323_11984.indd 279 Job: 11984 Title: #225388_Black & Decker Of Home Improvement (MBI) 12/1/17 3:39 PM Text SLC Page:279
BAY W I N DOWS
M odern bay windows are preassembled for easy
installation, but it will still take several days to
complete an installation. Bay windows are large and
Have at least one helper to assist you, and try to
schedule the work when there’s little chance of rain.
Using prebuilt bay window accessories will speed your
heavy, and installing them requires special techniques. work (see next page).
A large bay window can weigh several hundred
pounds, so it must be anchored securely to framing
members in the wall and supported by braces attached
Cutaway view
Cripple to framing members below the window. Some window
stud
manufacturers include cable-support hardware that
Building
paper can be used instead of metal support braces.
Metal flashing
Before purchasing a bay window unit, check with
Roof frame Header the local building department regarding the code
(double
Sheathing 2 × 8s with requirements. Many local codes require large windows
½" plywood)
Shingles
and low bay windows with window seats to be glazed
with tempered glass for safety.
Building
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
paper Preattached
head board
Drip edge
Insulation Tools & Materials ▸
Straightedge 16d casing nails
Circular saw 3" and 2" galvanized
Wood chisel utility screws
Pry bar Tapered wood shims
Drill Building paper
Level Fiberglass insulation
Nail set 6-mil polyethylene
Stapler sheeting
Side
jamb Aviation snips Drip edge
Roofing knife 1" roofing nails
Caulk gun Step flashing
Utility knife Shingles
T-bevel Top flashing
Bay window unit Roofing cement
Prebuilt roof 2 × 2 lumber
frame kit 5½" skirt boards
Skirt board Metal support ¾" exterior-grade
Preattached
Plastic seat board
brackets plywood
vapor 2× lumber Paintable silicone caulk
barrier
16d galvanized Eye and ear protection
Furring common nails
strip 16d and 8d
Rough sill
(double 2×6s galvanized
Insulation
with ½" plywood) casing nails
Wall
Plywood skirt sheathing
bottom
SidingProof 1
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Text SLC Page:280
Tips for Installing a Bay Window ▸
B
A
C
F E
D
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Use prebuilt accessories to ease installation of a bay window. Roof frames (A) come complete with sheathing (B), metal
top flashing (C), and step flashing (D) and can be special-ordered at most home centers. You will have to specify the exact
size of your window unit and the angle (pitch) you want for the roof. You can cover the roof inexpensively with building
paper and shingles or order a copper or aluminum shell. Metal support braces (E) and skirt boards (F) can be ordered at
your home center if not included with the window unit. Use two braces for bay windows up to 5 ft. wide and three braces
for larger windows. Skirt boards are clad with aluminum or vinyl and can be cut to fit with a circular saw or miter saw.
King stud Rough sill
Soffit
Extra
jack
stud
Jack
stud
Construct a bay window frame similar to that for a Build an enclosure above the bay window if the roof
standard window (see pages 261 to 263) but use a built- soffit overhangs the window. Build a 2 × 2 frame (top) to
up sill made from two 2 × 6s sandwiched around ½" match the angles of the bay window, and attach the frame
plywood. Install extra jack studs under the sill ends to help securely to the wall and overhanging soffit. Install a vapor
carry the window’s weight. barrier and insulation (pages 285, 288, and 289), then
finish the enclosure so it matches the siding (bottom).
Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A BAY W I N DOW
1 2
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Prepare the project site and remove interior wall surfaces Set the blade on a circular saw just deep enough to cut
(page 262), then frame the rough opening. Remove the exterior through the siding, then cut along the outline. Stop just short of
wall surfaces as directed on this page and on pages 284 and the corners to avoid damaging the siding outside the outline.
322 to 323. Mark for removal a section of siding directly below Use a sharp chisel to complete the corner cuts. Remove the
the rough opening. The width of the marked area should equal cut siding inside the outline.
that of the window unit and the height should equal that of the
skirt board.
3 4
Position the support braces along the rough sill within Slide the support braces down between the siding and the
the widest part of the bay window and above the cripple sheathing. Pry the siding material away from the sheathing
stud locations. Add cripple studs to match the support slightly to make room for the braces, if necessary. Note: On
brace locations, if necessary. Draw outlines of the braces on stucco, you will need to chisel notches in the masonry surface
the top of the sill. Use a chisel or circular saw to notch the to fit the support braces.
sill to a depth equal to the thickness of the top arm of the
support braces.Proof 1
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5 6
16d
nails
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Attach the braces to the rough sill with galvanized 16d Lift the bay window onto the support braces and slide it
common nails. Drive 3" utility screws through the front of the into the rough opening. Center the unit within the opening.
braces and into the rough sill to prevent twisting.
7 8 9 Jack
stud
Sheathing
Side
jamb
Mark
blocks
flush with
faces of
studs
Shims
Check the window unit to make Set the roof frame on top of the If the gap between the side jambs
sure it is level. If necessary, drive shims window, with the sheathing loosely and jack studs is more than 1" wide,
under the low side to level the window. tacked in place. Trace the outline of the mark and cut wood blocks to bridge the
Temporarily brace the outside bottom window and roof unit onto the siding. gap (smaller gaps require no blocks).
edge of the unit with 2 × 4s to keep it Leave a gap of about ½" around the Leave a small space for inserting wood
from moving on the braces. roof unit to allow room for flashing shims. Remove the window, then attach
and shingles. blocks every 12" along studs.
Proof 1
(continued)
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10 11 Shim
Brace
Cut the siding just down to the sheathing along the outline Set the bay window unit back on the braces, and slide it
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
using a circular saw. Stop just short of the corners, then back into the rough opening until the brick moldings are tight
use a wood chisel to complete the corner cuts. Remove the against the sheathing. Insert wood shims between the outside
cut siding. Pry the remaining siding slightly away from the end of the metal braces and the seat board (inset). Check the
sheathing around the roof outline to allow for easy installation unit to make sure it is level, and adjust the shims, if necessary.
of the metal flashing. Cover the exposed sheathing with
8"-wide strips of building paper (step 4, page 267).
12 13 Blocking
Shim
Jack
stud
Anchor the window by drilling pilot Drive wood shims into the spaces between the side jambs and the blocking or
holes and driving 16d casing nails jack studs and between the headboard and header, spacing the shims every 12". Fill
through the brick molding and into the the spaces around the window with loosely packed fiberglass insulation. At each shim
framing members. Space nails every location, drive 16d casing nails through the jambs and shims and into the framing
12", and use a nail set to drive the nail members. Cut off the shims flush with the framing members using a handsaw or
heads below the surface of the wood. utility knife. Use a nail set to drive the nail heads below the surface. If necessary, drill
pilot holes to prevent splitting the wood.Proof 1
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14 15
Staple sheet plastic over the top of the window unit to serve Remove the sheathing pieces from the roof frame, then
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
as a vapor barrier. Trim the edges of the plastic around the top position the frame on top of the window unit. Attach the roof
of the window using a utility knife. frame to the window and to the wall at stud locations using 3"
utility screws.
16 17 18
Fill the empty space inside the roof Staple asphalt building paper over Cut drip edges with aviation snips,
frame with loosely packed fiberglass the roof sheathing. Make sure each then attach them around the edge of
insulation. Screw the sheathing piece of building paper overlaps the one the roof sheathing using roofing nails.
back onto the roof frame using 2" below by at least 5".
utility screws.
Proof 1
(continued)
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19 Step
flashing
20
Cut and fit a piece of step flashing on each side of the roof frame. Adjust Trim the end of the flashing to
the flashing so it overhangs the drip edge by ¼". Flashings help guard against the same angle as the drip edge. Nail
moisture damage. the flashing to the sheathing with
roofing nails.
21 22 Full row
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
of shingles
6"
starter
row
Drip edge
Cut 6"-wide strips of shingles for the starter row. Use roofing nails to attach Nail a full row of shingles over the
the starter row shingles so they overhang the drip edge by about ½". Cut the shingles starter row, aligning the bottom edges
along the roof hips with a straightedge and a roofing knife. with the bottom edge of the starter
row. Make sure shingle notches are
not aligned.
23 24
Second step
flashing
Install another piece of step flashing on each side of the Cut and install another row of full shingles. The bottom
roof, overlapping the first piece of flashing by about 5". edges should overlap the tops of the notches on the previous
row by ½". Attach the shingles with roofing nails driven just
above the notches.Proof 1
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25 26
Continue installing alternate rows of step flashing and When the roof sheathing is covered with shingles,
shingles to the top of the roof. Bend the last pieces of step install the top flashing. Cut and bend the ends over the roof
flashing to fit over the roof hips. hips, and attach it with roofing nails. Attach the remaining rows
of shingles over the top flashing.
27 28
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Find the height of the final row of shingles by measuring Attach the final row of shingles with a thick bead of
from the top of the roof to a point ½" below the top of the roofing cement—not nails. Press firmly to ensure a good bond.
notches on the last installed shingle. Trim the shingles to fit.
29 30
Make ridge caps by cutting shingles into 1'-long sections. Install the ridge caps over the roof hips, beginning at
Use a roofing knife to trim off the top corners of each piece, so the bottom of the roof. Trim the bottom ridge caps to match
Proof 1 2 T
the ridge caps will be narrower at the top than at the bottom. the edges of the roof. Keep the same amount of overlap with
each layer.
(continued)
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31 32
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
At the top of the roof hips, use a roofing knife to cut the Staple sheet plastic over the bottom of the window unit to
shingles to fit flush with the wall. Attach the shingles with serve as a vapor barrier. Trim the plastic around the bottom of
roofing cement—do not use any nails. the window.
33 34
Cut and attach a 2 × 2 skirt frame around the bottom of Cut skirt boards to match the shape of the bay window
the bay window using 3" galvanized utility screws. Set the skirt bottom, mitering the ends to ensure a tight fit. Test-fit
frame back about 1" from the edges of the window. the skirt board pieces to make sure they match the bay
window bottom.Proof 1
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35 36 Skirt frame
Skirt
board
Furring strip
Cut a 2 × 2 furring strip for each skirt board. Miter the Attach the skirt board pieces to the skirt frame. Drill
ends to the same angles as the skirt boards. Attach the furring 1
⁄8" pilot holes every 6" through the back of the skirt frame
strips to the back of the skirt boards, 1" from the bottom and into the skirt boards, then attach the skirt boards with 2"
edges, using 2" galvanized utility screws. galvanized utility screws.
37 39
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Roofing cement
Measure the space inside the skirt boards using a T-bevel
to duplicate the angles. Cut a skirt bottom from ¾" exterior-
grade plywood to fit this space.
Silicone
caulk
38
Skirt bottom Furring
strip
Lay fiberglass insulation on the skirt bottom. Position the Install any additional trim pieces (inset) specified by your
skirt bottom against the furring strips and attach it by driving window manufacturer using 8d galvanized casing nails. Seal
2" galvanized utility screws every 6" through the bottom and the roof edges with roofing cement, and seal around the rest
into the furring strips. of the window with paintable silicone caulk. See pages 78 to 79
and 279 to finish the walls.
Proof 1
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G L A S S BLOC K W I N DOWS
G lass block is a durable material that transmits
light while reducing visibility, making it a perfect
material for creating unique windows. Glass block
of blocks you are using. It is much easier to make
an existing opening smaller to accommodate the
glass block rather than make it larger, which requires
windows are energy-efficient and work particularly reframing the rough opening. To determine the rough
well as accent windows or in rooms where privacy is opening width, multiply the nominal width of the glass
desired, such as bathrooms. block by the number of blocks horizontally and add
Glass block is available in a wide variety of sizes, ¼ inch. For the height, multiply the nominal height by
shapes, and patterns. It can be found, along with the number of blocks vertically and add ¼ inch.
other necessary installation products, at specialty Because of its weight, a glass block window
distributors or home centers. requires a solid base. The framing members of the
Building with glass block is much like building rough opening will need to be reinforced. Contact
with mortared brick, with two important differences. your local building department for requirements in
First, glass block must be supported by another your area.
structure and cannot function in a load-bearing Use ¼-inch plastic T-spacers between blocks to
capacity. Second, glass block cannot be cut, so take ensure consistent mortar joints and to support the
extra time to make sure the layout is accurate. weight of the block to prevent mortar from squeezing
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
When installing a glass block window, the size of out before it sets. (T-spacers can be modified into L or
the rough opening is based on the size and number flat shapes for use at corners and along the channel.)
For best results, use premixed glass block mortar. This
high-strength mortar is a little drier than regular brick
mortar, because glass doesn’t wick water out of the
mortar as brick does.
Because there are many applications for glass
block and installation techniques may vary, ask a glass
block retailer or manufacturer about the best products
and methods for your specific project.
Tools & Materials ▸
Tape measure 2 × 4 lumber
Circular saw 16d common nails
Hammer Glass block perimeter
Utility knife channels
Tin snips 1" galvanized flat-head
Drill screws
Mixing box Glass block mortar
Trowel Glass blocks
4' level ¼" T-spacers
Rubber mallet Expansion strips
Jointing tool Silicone caulk
Sponge Construction adhesive
Nail set Mortar sealant
Glass block windows provide exceptional durability, light Paintbrush Eye and ear protection
transmission, and privacy. New installation products are also Caulk gun
making these windows easier for the do-it-yourselfer to install.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A G L A S S BL OC K W I N DOW
1 2
Jack
stud
Window
rough
opening
Rough sill
Cripple
studs
Sole
plate
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Measure the size of the rough opening and determine the Cut the perimeter channel to length for the sill and side
size of the glass block window you will install (opposite page). jambs, mitering the ends at 45°. Align the front edge of
Reinforce the rough opening framing by doubling the rough sill the channel flush with the front edge of the exterior wall
and installing additional cripple studs. Cut all pieces to size and sheathing. Drill pilot holes every 12" through the channels
fasten with 16d common nails. (if not provided), and fasten the channels in place with 1"
galvanized flat-head screws. Note: Paint screw heads white to
help conceal them.
3 4
For the header, cut a channel to length, mitering the ends Set two blocks into the sill channel, one against each
at 45°, then cut it in half lengthwise, using a utility knife. jamb—do not place mortar between blocks and channels.
Align one-half of the channel flush with the exterior face of Place a ¼" flat spacer against the first block. Mix glass block
the sheathing, and fasten in place with 1" galvanized flat- mortar and liberally butter the leading edge of another block,
head screws. then push it tight against the first block. Make sure the joint is
filled with mortar.
Proof 1
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5 6
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Lay the remainder of the first course, building from both At the top of the course, fill any depression at the top of
jambs toward the center. Use flat spacers between blocks to each mortar joint with mortar and insert a ¼" T-spacer, then lay
maintain proper spacing. Plumb and level each block as you a 3⁄8" bed of mortar for the next course. Lay the blocks for each
work, then also check the entire course for level. Tap blocks course, using T-spacers to maintain proper spacing. Check
into place using the rubber handle of the trowel—do not use each block for level and plumb as you work.
metal tools with glass block. Butter both sides of the final block
in the course to install it.
7 8
Test the mortar as you work. When it can resist light finger To ease block placement in the final course, trim the
pressure, remove the T-spacers (inset) and pack mortar into the outer tabs off one side of the T-spacers using tin snips. Install
voids, then tool the joints with a jointing tool. Remove excess the blocks of the final course. After the final block is installed,
mortar with a damp sponge or a bristle brush. work in any mortar that has been forced out of the joints.Proof 1
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9 10
Expansion
strip
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Cut an expansion strip for the header 1½" wide and to Clean the glass block thoroughly with a wet sponge,
length. Slide it between the top course of block and the header rinsing often. Allow the surface to dry, then remove cloudy
of the rough opening. Apply a bead of construction adhesive to residue with a clean, dry cloth. Caulk between glass block and
the top edge of the remaining half of the header channel, and channels and between channels and framing members
slide it between the expansion strip and header. before installing exterior trim. After brick molding is installed,
allow the mortar to cure for two weeks. Apply sealant.
Variation: Glass Block Window Kits ▸
Some glass block window kits do not require mortar. Preassembled glass block windows are simple to
Instead, the blocks are set into the perimeter channels install. These vinyl-clad units have a nailing flange around
and the joints are created using plastic spacer strips. the frame, which allows them to be hung using the same
Silicone caulk is then used to seal the joints. installation techniques as for standard windows with a
nailing flange (pages 263 to 264).
Proof 1
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T U BU L A R SK Y L IG H T S
A ny interior room can be brightened with a tubular
skylight. Tubular skylights are quite energy-
efficient and are relatively easy to install, with no
complicated framing involved.
The design of tubular skylights varies among
manufacturers, with some using solid plastic reflecting
tubes and others using flexible tubing. Various
diameters are also available. Measure the distance
between the framing members in your attic before
purchasing your skylight to be sure it will fit.
This project shows the installation of a tubular
skylight on a sloped, asphalt-shingled roof. Consult A tubular skylight is an economical way to introduce more
the dealer or manufacturer for installation procedures sunlight into a room without embarking on a major framing
on other roof types. project.
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Tools & Materials ▸
Pencil Reciprocating saw Wire cutters Stiff wire
Drill Pry bar Utility knife 2" roofing nails or flashing screws
Tape measure Screwdriver Chalk Roofing cement
Wallboard saw Hammer Tubular skylight kit Eye and ear protection
■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A T U BU L A R SK Y L IG H T
1 2 3
Drill a pilot hole through the ceiling Center the ceiling ring frame over In the attic, choose the most direct
at the approximate location for your the hole and trace around it with a route for the tubing to reach the
skylight. Push a stiff wire up into the pencil. Carefully cut along the pencil line roof. Find the center between the
attic to help locate the hole. In the with a wallboard saw or reciprocating appropriate rafters and drive a nail up
attic, make sure the space around the saw. Save the wallboard ceiling cutout through the roof sheathing and shingles.
hole is clear of any insulation. Drill a to use as your roof-hole pattern. Attach
second hole through the ceiling at the the ceiling frame ring around the hole
centerpoint between two joists. with the included screws.Proof 1
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4 5 Top frame
ring
Lower
tubing
ring
Use the wallboard ceiling cutout, centered over the nail Pull the tubing over the top frame ring. Bend the frame
hole, as a template for the roof opening. Trace the cutout tabs out through the tubing, keeping two or three rings of
onto the roof with chalk. Drill a starter hole to insert the the tubing wire above the tabs. Wrap the junction three times
reciprocating saw blade, then cut out the hole in the roof. Pry around with included PVC tape. Then, in the attic, measure from
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
up the lower portion of the shingles above the hole. Remove the roof to the ceiling. Stretch out the tubing and cut it to length
any staples or nails around the hole edge. with a utility knife and wire cutters. Pull the loose end of tubing
over the lower ring and wrap it three times with PVC tape.
6 7 8
Ceiling
frame
Diffuser ring
lens
Gasket
Lower the tubing through the roof Secure the flashing to the roof with Pull the lower end of the tubing
hole and slide the flashing into place 2" roofing nails or flashing screws. Seal down through the ceiling hole. Attach
with the upper portion of the flashing under the shingles and over all the nail the lower tubing ring to the ceiling
underneath the existing shingles. This is heads with roofing cement. Attach the frame ring and fasten it with screws.
easier with two people, one on the roof skylight dome and venting to the frame Attach the gasket to the diffuser
and one in the attic. with the included screws. lens and work the gasket around the
perimeter of the ceiling frame. Repack
any insulation around the tubing in
the attic.
Proof 1
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F R A M I NG A N E X T E R IOR DOOR
T he rough opening for a new exterior door should be
framed after the interior preparation work is done,
but before the exterior wall surfaces are removed. The
When you finish framing, measure across the top,
middle, and bottom of the door opening to make sure
it is uniform from the top to the bottom. If there are
methods for framing the opening will vary, depending major differences in the opening size, adjust the studs
on what type of construction your house was built so the opening is uniform.
with (see photos, below).
Make sure the rough opening is 1 inch wider and
½ inch taller than the dimensions of the door you
plan to install, including the jambs, to allow space for
adjustment during installation. Tools & Materials ▸
Because exterior walls are always load-bearing, the
framing for an exterior door requires a larger header Tape measure Hammer
than those used for interior partition walls. Pencil Pry bar
Local building codes will specify a minimum Level Nippers
size for the door header based on the size of your Plumb bob 2× lumber
rough opening.
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Reciprocating saw 3
⁄8" plywood
Always build temporary supports to hold up the Circular saw 10d nails
ceiling if your project requires that you cut or remove Handsaw
more than one stud in a load-bearing wall.
Installed Installed
door door
Jack Threshold
Threshold King
stud
Sole stud
plate
Plywood
extension
Extra Nailing
King blocks
jack
stud
stud Subfloor
Subfloor
Joists
Joists
Sill plate
Jack
stud
Cutoff wall
studs
Walls shown cut
away for clarity
Walls shown
cutaway for clarity
A new door opening in a platform-framed house has studs A new door opening in a balloon-framed house has studs
that rest on a sole plate running across the top of the subfloor. extending past the subfloor to rest on the sill plate. Jack studs
The sole plate is cut away between the jack studs so the rest either on the sill plate or on top of the joists. To provide
threshold for the new door can rest directly on the subfloor. a surface for the door threshold, install nailing blocks, andProof 1
extend the subfloor out to the ends of the joists using plywood.
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■ HOW TO F R A M E A N E X T E R IOR DOOR
Prepare the project site and remove
1 the interior wall surfaces.
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
2 3
Measure and mark the rough opening width on the If king studs need to be added, measure and cut them
sole plate. Mark the locations of the jack studs and king studs to fit between the sole plate and top plate. Position the king
on the sole plate. (Where practical, use existing studs as studs and toenail them to the sole plate with 10d nails.
king studs.)
Proof 1
(continued)
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4 5
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Check the king studs with a level to make sure they are Measuring from the floor, mark the rough opening height
plumb, then toenail them to the top plate with 10d nails. on one king stud. For most doors, the recommended rough
opening is ½" taller than the height of the door unit. This line
marks the bottom of the door header.
6 7
Determine the size of the header needed and measure Cut two jack studs to reach from the top of the sole plate
and mark where the top of it will fit against a king stud. Use a to the rough opening marks on the king studs. Nail the jack
level to extend the lines across the intermediate studs to the studs to the king studs with 10d nails driven every 12". Make
opposite king stud. temporary supports if you are removing more than one stud.Proof 1
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8 9
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Use a circular saw set to maximum blade depth to cut Knock out the 3" stud sections, then tear out the rest of
through the old studs that will be removed. The remaining stud the studs with a pry bar. Clip away any exposed nails using
sections will be used as cripple studs for the door frame. Note: a nippers.
Do not cut king studs. Make additional cuts 3" below the first
cuts, then finish the cuts with a handsaw.
10 11
Build a header to fit between the king studs on top of the Use a reciprocating saw to cut through the sole plate next
jack studs. Use two pieces of 2× lumber sandwiched around to each jack stud, then remove the sole plate with a pry bar.
½" plywood. Attach header to the jack studs, king studs, and Cut off any exposed nails or anchors using a nippers.
cripple studs using 10d nails.
Proof 1
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F R E NC H DOOR S
F rench doors are made up of two separate doors,
hinged on opposing jambs of a doorway. The doors
swing out from the center of the doorway and into or
out from a room. Like most doors, French doors are
typically sold in prehung units, but are also available
separately. They are generally available only in wood
with a variety of designs and styles to choose from.
Before purchasing a prehung French door unit,
determine the size of doors you will need. If you are
planning to install the doors in an existing doorway,
measure the dimensions of the rough opening from
the unfinished framing members, then order the unit
to size—the manufacturer or distributor will help you
select the proper unit.
You can also pick the prehung unit first, then alter
an existing opening to accommodate it (as shown in
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
this project). In this case, build the rough opening a
little larger than the actual dimensions of the doors to
accommodate the jambs. Prehung units typically require
adding 1 inch to the width and ½ inch to the height.
If the doorway will be in a load-bearing wall, you
will need to make temporary supports (pages 321
to 322) and install an appropriately sized header.
Sizing the header (depth) is critical: it’s based on the
length of the header, the material it’s made from, and
the weight of the load it must support. For actual
requirements, consult your local building department.
When installing French doors, it is important to
have consistent reveals between the two doors and
between the top of the doors and the head jamb. This
allows the doors to close properly and prevents the
hinges from binding.
Tools & Materials ▸
Tape measure Prehung French
Circular saw door unit
4-ft. level 2 × 4 and 2 × 6 lumber
Hammer 10d & 16d
Handsaw common nails
Drill Wood shims
Utility knife 8d finish nails Traditionally, French doors open onto the patio or lush
Nail set Reciprocating saw garden of a backyard. But you can create stylish entrances
½" plywood Eye and ear protection inside your home by bringing French doors to formal dining
rooms, sitting rooms, dens, and master suites.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L F R E NC H DOOR S
1 Old studs
marked for
New
king stud
Use existing location
cripple studs
framing
where
possible
Wallboard
cut back Wallboard
for access cut back
Old header and
New header for access
jack stud to be
removed location
New
jack stud
location
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Shut off power and water to the area. Remove the wall surfaces from both sides of the wall (page 262), leaving one stud bay
open on each side of the new rough opening. Also remove or reroute any wiring, plumbing, or ductwork. Lay out the new rough
opening, marking the locations of all new jack and king studs on both the top and bottom plates. Where practical, use existing
framing members. To install a new king stud, cut a stud to size and align with the layout marks; toenail to the bottom plate with 10d
common nails, check for plumb, then toenail to the top plate to secure. Finally, mark both the bottom and top of the new header on
one king stud, then use a level to extend the lines across the intermediate studs to the opposite king stud. If using existing framing,
measure and mark from the existing jack stud.
2 3
New
cripple
studs
Existing
framing
Cut the intermediate studs at the reference marks for the To install a jack stud, cut the stud to fit between the sole
top of the header using a reciprocating saw. Pry the studs plate and the bottom of the header, as marked on the king
away from the sole plates and remove—the remaining top stud. Align it at the mark against the king stud, then fasten it in
pieces will be used as cripple studs. place with 10d common nails driven every 12".
Proof 1
(continued)
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4 5
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Build the header to size (page 12, and page 262, step 9) and Finish the walls before installing the doors, then set the
install, fastening it to the jack studs, king studs, and cripple prehung door unit into the framed opening so the jamb
studs using 16d common nails. Use a handsaw to cut through edges are flush with the finished wall surfaces and the unit is
the bottom plate so it’s flush with the inside faces of the jack centered from side to side.
studs. Remove the cutout portion.
6 7
Using a level, adjust the unit to plumb one of the side jambs. Working down along the jamb, install shims near each
Starting near the top of the door, insert pairs of shims driven hinge and near the floor. Make sure the jamb is plumb, then
from opposite directions into the gap between the framing and anchor it with 8d finish nails driven through the jamb and
the jamb, sliding the shims until they are snug. Check the jamb shims and into the framing. Leave the nail heads partially
to make sure it remains plumb and does not bow inward. protruding so the jamb can be readjusted later if necessary.Proof 1
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8 9 Reveal
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Install shims at the other side jamb, aligning them roughly Shim the gap between the header and the head jamb to
with the shims of the first jamb. With the doors closed, adjust create a consistent reveal along the top when the doors are
the shims so the reveal between the doors is even and the closed. Insert pairs of shims every 12". Drive 8d finish nails
tops of the doors are aligned. through the jambs and shims and into the framing members.
10
Drive all the nails fully, then set them below the surface Option: Replace the center mounting screw on each hinge with
of the wood with a nail set. Cut off the shims flush with the a 3" wood screw to provide extra support for door hinges and
wall surface using a handsaw or utility knife. Hold the saw jambs. These long screws extend through the side jambs and
vertically to prevent damage to the door jamb or wall. Install deep into the framing members. Be careful not to overtighten
the door casing. screws, which will cause the jambs to bow.
Proof 1
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H A NG I NG A N E W DOOR I N A N OL D JA M B
I f you’ve got an unsightly or damaged door to replace
but the jamb and trimwork are in good condition,
there’s no need to remove the jambs. Instead, buy
This is a project where patience and careful
scribing will pay dividends in the end. Have a helper
on hand to hold the door in position as you scribe and
a slab door and hang it in the existing jamb. It’s an fit the door in place.
excellent way to preserve existing moldings and trim,
especially if you live in an old home, and you won’t
have to color-match a new jamb to its surroundings.
If the hinges are also in good condition, you Tools & Materials ▸
can reuse them as well. This may be particularly
desirable in a historic home with ornate hinges. Most Door shims Power plane or hand plane
home centers stock six-panel slab doors, or you can Tape measure Hammer
order them in a variety of styles and wood types. For Compass Chisel
aesthetic and practical reasons, choose a door size as Combination square Drill/driver
close to the original door as possible. Utility knife Hole saw
The process for hanging the door involves Circular saw Spade bit
shimming the door into position in the jamb, scribing C-clamps Slab door
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
the ends and edges, and trimming or planing it to fit the Self-centering drill bit Hinge screws
opening. You’ll also need to chisel hinge mortises in the Masking tape Eye and ear protection
door edge to accommodate the jamb hinge positions.
Before After
Installing a new door in an old jamb dramatically updates the curb appeal of your home.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO H A NG A N E W DOOR I N A N OL D JA M B
1 2
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Have a helper hold the new door in place against the jamb Use pieces of colored masking tape to mark the outside
from inside the room. Slide a pair of thick shims under the of the door along the hinge edge. This will help keep the door’s
door to raise it up slightly off the floor or threshold. Move the orientation clear throughout the installation process.
shims in or out until the door’s top and side rails are roughly
even with the jamb so it looks balanced in the opening, then
make a mark along the top edge of the the door.
3 4
Use a pencil compass, set to an opening of 3⁄16", to scribe Lay the door on a sturdy bench or across a pair of sawhorses
layout lines along both long edges of the door and across the with the tape side facing up. Score the top and bottom
top. These lines will create a clear space for the hinges and scribe lines with a utility knife to keep the wood fibers from
door swing. If the bottom of the door will close over carpet, set splintering when you cut across the ends.
the dividers for ½" and scribe the bottom edge. Remove the
door and transfer these scribe lines to the other door face.
Proof 1
(continued)
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5 6
Straightedge
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Trim the door ends with a circular saw equipped with a fine- Stand the door on edge and use a power planer or hand
cutting blade. Run the saw base along a clamped straightedge plane to plane down to the edge of the scribe lines. Set the
with the blade cutting 1⁄16" on the waste side of the layout tool for a fine cut; use a 1⁄16" cutting depth for power planing
lines. Check to make sure the blade is set square to the saw and a shallower cutting depth for a hand plane. Try to make
base before cutting. Use a power planer or hand plane to plane each planing pass in long strokes from one end of the door to
the door ends to the layout lines. the other.
7 8
Shim the door back into position in the jamb with a helper Use a combination square or one of the hinge leaves to
supporting it from behind. Set the door slightly out from the draw hinge mortise layout lines on the door edge. Score the
doorstop moldings so you can mark the hinge locations on the layout lines with a utility knife.
door face.Proof 1
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9 10
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Cut shallow hinge leaf mortises in the door edge with a Set the hinges in the door mortises, and drill pilot holes for
sharp chisel and hammer. First score the mortise shape with a the hinge screws. Attach the hinges to the door.
straightedge and utility knife or a chisel, then make a series of
shallow chisel cuts inside the hinge leaf area. Pare away this
waste so the mortise depth is slightly deeper than the hinge
leaf thickness.
11 12
Hang the door in the jamb by tipping it into place so the top Bore holes for the lockset and bolt using a hole saw and
hinge leaf rests in the top mortise of the jamb. Drive one screw spade bit. If you’re reusing the original hardware, measure the
into this mortise. Then set the other leaves into their mortises old door hole sizes and cut matching holes in the new door,
and install the remaining hinge screws. starting with the large lockset hole. For new locksets, use the
manufacturer’s template and hole sizing recommendations to
bore the holes. Install the hardware.
Proof 1
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E N T RY DOOR S
F ew parts of a house have a more dramatic effect
on the way your home is perceived than the main
entry door. A lovely, well-maintained entryway that
secured a new door header that’s approved for the new
span distance (see pages 321 to 322).
The American Craftsman style door with
is tastefully matched architecturally to the house sidelights) installed in this project has the look and
can utterly transform a home’s appearance. In fact, texture of a classic wood door, but it is actually created
industry studies have suggested that upgrading a plain from fiber-glass. Today’s fiberglass doors are quite
entry door to a higher-end entry door system can convincing in their ability to replicate wood grain,
pay back multiple times in the resale of your house. while still offering the durability and low-maintenance
But perhaps more importantly, depending on your of fiberglass.
priorities, it makes a great improvement in how you
feel about your home. Plus, it usually pays benefits in
home security and energy efficiency as well. Tools & Materials ▸
If you are replacing a single entry door with a
double door or a door with a sidelight or sidelights, you Tape measure Framing nails
will need to enlarge the door opening (see pages 321 to Level Finish nails
323). Be sure to file your plans with your local building Reciprocating saw Nail set
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
department and obtain a permit. You’ll need to provide Caulk & caulk gun Finishing materials
temporary support from the time you remove the wall Hammer Eye and ear protection
studs in the new opening until you’ve installed and Shims
After Before
Replacing an ordinary entry door
with a beautiful new upgrade has an
exceptionally high payback in increased
curb appeal and in perceived home
value, according to industry studies.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO R E PL AC E A N E N T RY DOOR
1 2
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Remove the old entry door by cutting through the fasteners Frame in the new rough opening for the replacement door
driven into the jamb with a reciprocating saw (see pages 321 and (see pages 49 to 51). The instructions that come with the door
322). If the new door or door system is wider, mark the edges of will recommend a rough opening size, which is usually sized to
the larger rough opening onto the wall surface. If possible, try to create a ½" gap between the door and the studs and header.
locate the new opening so one edge will be against an existing Patch the wall surfaces.
wall stud. Be sure to include the thickness of the new framing
you’ll need to add when removing the wall coverings.
3 4
Cut metal door dripcap molding to fit the width of the Unpack the door unit and set it in the rough opening to
opening and tuck the back edge up behind the wallcovering make sure it fits correctly. Remove it. Make sure the subfloor is
at the top of the door opening. Attach the dripcap with caulk clean and in good repair, and then apply heavy beads of caulk
only–do not use nails or screws. to the underside of the door sill and to the subfloor in the sill
installation area. Use plenty of caulk.
Proof 1
(continued)
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5 6
Set the door sill in the threshold and raise the unit up so it Use a 6' level to make sure the unit is plumb and then
fits cleanly in the opening, with the exterior trim flush against tack it to the rough opening stud on the hinge side, using
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
the wall sheathing. Press down on the sill to seat it in the caulk pairs of 10d nails driven partway through the casing on the
and wipe up any squeeze-out with a damp rag weatherstripped side of the door (or the sidelight). On single,
hinged doors, drive the nails just above the hinge locations.
Note: Many door installers prefer deck screws over nails when
attaching the jambs. Screws offer more gripping strength and
are easier to adjust, but covering the screw heads is more
difficult than filling nail holes.
7 8
Drive wood shims between the jamb and the wall studs to Drive shims between the jamb on the latch side of the unit
create an even gap. Locate the shims directly above the pairs and into the wall stud. Only drive the nails part way. Test for
of nails you drove. Double check the door with the level to plumb again and then add shims at nail locations (you may
make sure it is still plumb. need to double-up the shims, as this gap is often wider than
the one on the hinge side). Check to make sure the door jamb
is not bowed.Proof 1
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9 10
Drive finish nails at all remaining locations, following the Use a nail set to drive the nail heads below the wood surface.
nailing schedule in the manufacturer's installation instructions. Fill the nail holes with wood putty (you’ll get the best match if
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
you apply putty that’s tinted to match the stained wood after
the finish is applied). The presence of the wood shims at the
nail locations should prevent the jamb from bowing as you nail.
11 12
Install the lockset, strikeplates, deadbolts or multipoint Apply your door finish if it has not yet been applied. Read
locks, and any other door hardware. If the door finish has the manufacturer’s suggestions for finishing very closely and
not been applied, you may want to do so first, but generally follow the suggested sequences. Some manufacturers offer
it makes more sense to install the hardware right away so finish kits that are designed to be perfectly compatible with
the door can be operated and locked. Attach the door sill their doors. Install interior case molding and caulk all the
to the threshold and adjust it as needed, normally using the exterior gaps after the finish dries.
adjustment screws (inset).
Proof 1
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STOR M DOOR S
S torm doors protect the entry door from driving rain
or snow. They create a dead air buffer between
the two doors that acts like insulation. When the
screen panels are in place, the door provides great
ventilation on a hot day. And, they deliver added
security, especially when outfitted with a lockset and a
deadbolt lock.
If you want to install a new storm door or
replace an old one that’s seen better days, your
first job is to go shopping. Storm doors come in
many different styles to suit just about anyone’s
design needs. And they come in different materials,
including aluminum, vinyl, and even fiberglass.
(Wood storm doors are still available but not in
preassembled form.) All these units feature a
prehung door in a frame that is mounted on the
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
entry door casing boards. Depending on the model
you buy, installation instructions can vary. Be sure to
check the directions that come with your door before
starting the job.
Tools & Materials ▸
Drill/driver Masking tape
Tape measure Hacksaw
Finish nails Level
Screwdriver Primer
Paintbrush Paint
Hammer Eye and ear protection
A quality storm door helps seal out cold drafts, keeps rain
and snow off your entry door, and lets a bug-free breeze into
your home when you want one.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A STOR M DOOR
1 2
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Test-fit the door in the opening. If it is loose, add a shim to Install the drip edge molding at the top of the door
the hinge side of the door. Cut the piece with a circular saw opening. The directions for the door you have will explain
and nail it to the side of the jamb, flush with the front of exactly how to do this. Sometimes it’s the first step, like we
the casing. show here; otherwise it’s installed after the door is in place.
3 4
Measure the height of the opening and cut the hinge flange Lift the door and push it tightly into the opening. Partially
to match this measurement. Use a hacksaw and work slowly drive one mounting screw near the bottom and another near
so the saw won’t hop out of the cut and scratch a visible area the top. Check the door for plumb, and when satisfied, drive all
of the hinge. the mounting screws tight to the flange.
Proof 1
(continued)
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5 6
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Measure from the doorway sill to the rain cap to establish Cut the latch-side flange with a hacksaw. Work carefully
the length of the latch-side mounting flange. so you don’t pull out the weatherstripping from the flange
channel as you cut. Install the flange with screws.
7 8
To install the door sweep, slide it over the bottom of the Mount the lockset on the door. Tape can help hold the
door and install its mounting screws loosely. Make sure the outside hardware in place while you position the inner latch
sweep forms a tight seal with the sill, then tighten the screws. and tighten the screws.Proof 1
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9 10
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Install the strike plates for both the lockset (shown here) Begin installing the door closer by screwing the jamb
and the deadbolt locks. These plates are just screwed to bracket in place. Most of these brackets have slotted screw
the door jamb where the lock bolt and deadbolt fall. Install holes so you can make minor adjustments without taking off
the deadbolt. the bracket.
11 12
Install the door closer bracket on the inside of the door. Adjust the automatic door closer so it closes the door
Then mount the closer on the jamb bracket and the door completely without slamming it. The adjustment is usually
bracket. Usually the closer is attached to these with some form made by turning a set screw in and out with a screwdriver.
of short locking pin.
Proof 1
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AT T IC ACC E S S L A DDE R S
P ull-down attic ladders provide instant access
to your attic space, making it easy to store and
retrieve items without squeezing through a tight
access panel. You can replace an existing access
panel with a ladder kit or install the ladder in a more
convenient location.
When purchasing an access ladder, consider
the amount of use it will get. A basic wooden ladder
system may be sufficient for occasional use a few
times a year. More frequent use may call for a more
sturdy model, such as an aluminum ladder, or a
disappearing staircase.
It’s important that the ladder you install is the
proper size for your ceiling height. Never install one
that is shorter than your ceiling height. Compare units
for weight load, incline angle, and quality of materials
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
when choosing the right ladder for your home.
Although most attic ladders are installed the same
way, always follow the manufacturer’s directions.
Tools & Materials ▸
Tape measure 2× lumber (for framing
Framing square and temporary
Pencil supports)
Wallboard saw 2" and 1¼"
Reciprocating saw drywall screws
Drill and bits Casing
Hammer 1 × 4 lumber (for
Hacksaw temporary ledgers)
Attic access ladder kit Eye and ear protection
Stiff wire Dust mask
3" deck screws
An attic access ladder can turn an otherwise useless space
into a handy storage area or roof access.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A N AT T IC ACC E S S L A DDE R
1 2
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Mark the approximate location for the attic access door If the width of your ladder unit requires that you cut a
on the room ceiling. Drill a hole at one of the corners and push joist, build temporary supports in the room below to support
the end of a stiff wire up into the attic. In the attic, locate the each end of the cut joist to prevent damage to your ceiling.
wire and clear away insulation in the area. Using dimensions Use a reciprocating saw to cut through the joist at both end
provided by the manufacturer, mark the rough opening across marks, then remove the cut piece. Caution: Do not stand on
the framing members, using one of the existing joists as the cut joist.
one side of the frame. Add 3" to the rough opening length
dimension to allow for the headers.
3 4
Cut two headers to fit between the joists using 2× lumber Cut a piece of 2× lumber to the length of the rough opening
the same size as your ceiling joists. Position the headers to form the other side of the frame. Square the corners,
perpendicular to the joists, butting them against the cut joists. and attach the side piece to each header with three 3"
Make sure the corners are square, and attach the headers with deck screws.
three 3" deck screws into each joist.
Proof 1
(continued)
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5 6
Cut the rough opening in the ceiling using a wallboard saw. Fasten the edges of the wallboard to the rough opening
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Use the rough opening frame to guide your saw blade. frame using 1¼" screws spaced every 8". Prepare
the ladder’s temporary support clips according to the
manufacturer’s directions.
7 8
If your ladder does not include support clips, attach 1 × 4 With a helper, lift the unit through the opening and rest it
boards at both ends of the opening, slightly overlapping the on the ledgers. Make sure the unit is square in the frame
edges, to act as ledgers to support the unit while fastening. and the door is flush with the ceiling surface. Shim the unit
as needed. Note: Do not stand on the unit until it is firmly
attached to the framing.Proof 1
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9 10
Attach the ladder unit to the rough framing with 10d nails or Open the ladder, keeping the lower section folded back.
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
2" screws driven through the holes in the corner brackets and With the tape measure along the top of the rail, measure the
hinge plates. Continue fastening the unit to the frame, driving distance from the end of the middle section to the floor on
screws or nails through each side of the ladder frame into the each rail. Subtract 3" and mark the distances on the right and
rough frame. Remove the temporary ledgers or support clips left rails of the third section. Use a square to mark a cutting
when complete. line across the rails. Place a support under the lower section
and trim along the cutting line with a hacksaw. (For wooden
ladders, see manufacturer’s directions.)
11 12
Fully extend the ladder and test-fit the adjustable feet on Install casing around the edges to cover the gap between
the rails. Adjust the feet so there are no gaps in the hinges and the ceiling wallboard and the ladder frame. Leave a 3⁄8"
the feet are flush with the floor. Drill through the rails, using clearance between the door panel and the casing.
a recommended size bit, and attach the adjustable feet with
included nuts, washers, and bolts.
Proof 1
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WA L KOU T PAT IO DOOR S
A walkout basement without a patio door seems
incomplete. Yet many homes with direct access
into the basement do not take full advantage of the
will need to provide temporary support to replace the
bearing being done by the wall studs you’ll need to
cut. And when you install the new door, the framed
feature. A sliding or swingout patio door allows several opening must have a substantial header. Check
times the amount of natural light into a room that a with your local building department for the header
single door lets in, even if the single door has a large requirements. Because basement ceilings may be
bright panel. If there is a patio or deck on the exterior shorter than 8 feet, you may need to use a header
side of your basement door, enlarging the door will that’s fabricated from engineered beams to meet the
make moving guests and supplies through the doorway load-bearing requirements within the available space.
much easier and more comfortable.
When choosing a new patio door, you’ll need
to decide between models with hinged doors that
swing out and close together, or ones with sliding Tools & Materials ▸
door panels. Swinging doors tend to require less
maintenance than sliding doors, and they offer better Circular saw Self-adhesive
security. Sliding doors are a good choice if ventilation Reciprocating saw rubber flashing
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
is one of your requirements, because the amount of with bi-metal blade Building paper
air they let in is easy to regulate. You can also leave Handsaw Drip edge molding
a sliding door open without the wind catching it and 10d, 16d nails Panel adhesive
causing it to slam or break. 2½" deck screws Fiberglass insulation
Enlarging a door opening requires that you make ½" plywood Case molding
structural changes to your house, so it almost always Hammer Eye and ear protection
requires a building permit. During construction you
BEFORE AFTER
Replacing a single door with a sliding patio door is a great way to add light to a walkout basement and create an inviting
entryway into your home.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A PAT IO DOOR
1 2
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Build a temporary support wall. Use doubled 2 × 4s (or Remove the old door and the wallcoverings in the project
4 × 4s) for the top plate and support posts. The wall should area. If there are light switches or receptacles in the demolition
extend at least 2' past the planned door opening in each area, shut off their power supply at the main service panel
direction and cannot be more than 24" away from the bearing and then remove cover plates. To remove the old door, take
wall. Secure the support wall to the floor and to the ceiling. off the case molding and then cut through the nails by sawing
between the jambs and the frame with a reciprocating saw
and bi-metal blade (inset).
3 4
Relocate wiring elements such as switches and receptacles Remove wall studs in the project area. If they are difficult to
so they are safely outside the new door area. You will need an remove, cut them through the center with a reciprocating saw
electrical permit for this and possibly an on-site inspection. If first. Watch out for nails driven in through the exterior side.
Proof 1 2 T
you are not experienced with home wiring, hire an electrician
for this part of the job.
(continued)
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5 6 King
stud
Jack
studs
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Frame the rough opening so it is sized according to the Install the new header by driving 16d nails through the
door manufacturer’s recommendation. Install the new king king stud and into the ends of the header. You can make your
studs if needed and then install the jack studs. own structural header by sandwiching a strip of ½" plywood
between two pieces of dimensional lumber (inset). Assemble
the header with construction adhesive and 10d nails or 2½"
deck screws. You can also purchase an engineered header.
7 8
Cut through the exterior wall materials. You can either mark Lift the door unit or frame into the opening, with
the corners of the framed opening by driving a nail out from a helper. Test the fit. Trace the edges of the preattached
the side, or simply use the framed opening as guidance for brickmold onto the outside wall, or place a piece of brickmold
your reciprocating saw. Also cut through the sole plate at the next to the door and trace around the perimeter to establish
edges of the opening so the cut end is flush with the jack cutting lines (inset). Remove the door.Proof 1
stud face.
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9 10 11
WINDOW & DOOR PROJECTS
Cut along the brickmold cutting lines Seal the framed opening by installing Apply a bead of exterior-rated panel
with a saw set to a cutting depth equal strips of building paper or self-adhesive adhesive to the door threshold. Also
to the thickness of the siding and the rubber flashing product. Make sure apply adhesive to the back surface of
wall sheathing. Finish the cuts at the that the top strip overlaps any seams the preattached brickmold or the nailing
corners with a handsaw. Thoroughly you create. If the patio door is exposed, flange (whichever your door has).
vacuum the floor in the door opening. attach drip edge molding to the top of
the framed opening.
12 13
Set the door in position so the brickmold or nailing flange Fill the gaps around the door with minimal expanding foam
is flush against the outside of the framed opening. Center it in or with loosely backed fiberglass insulation (foam makes a
the opening, side to side. Tack the door near the top of each better seal). Patch the wall and attach case molding (see page
side and then check with a level. Install shims where necessary 79). If your door does not have preattached brickmold, cut and
so the door is plumb. Re-hang the door in the frame, if it has attach molding on the outside.
Proof 1
been removed.
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AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T SProof 1
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AT TIC & BA SEMENT
PROJEC T S
I n the quest to find additional living space in
an existing home, the first thing to consider is
converting unused space in an attic or basement.
Such an undertaking is not to be taken lightly, but it is
well within reach of any energetic and careful DIYer,
and the rewards are substantial. Real-estate agents
report that nothing improves the market value of your
home like adding a bedroom or bathroom to the basic
specs of your home, and adding any living space can
help a growing family stay in a home at a fraction
of what it would cost to sell and move into a new,
larger dwelling.
This chapter alone cannot give you all the
information you need to tackle such a major project
as converting an attic or basement. You will want to
consult the earlier chapters in this book, as many
of those projects may well be part of your major
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
construction project. You’ll also need to seek out other
sources of information, such as good books on wiring,
plumbing, and carpentry skills, and practice at those
skills. But this book, and especially this chapter, can
give you a valuable overview of this kind of work as
well as offer some key projects that will make your
renovation truly special.
■ IN THIS CHAPTER:
• Evaluating Your Attic
• Evaluating Your Basement
• Controlling Moisture
• Insulating Basements & Attics
• Framing Soffits
• Stairways
• Building Attic Floors
• Building Attic Kneewalls
• Framing Attic Ceilings
• Adding a Basements Bath
• Installing a Gas Fireplace
Proof 1
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E VA LUAT I NG YOU R AT T IC
S tart your attic evaluation with a quick framing
inspection. If the roof is framed with rafters, you
can continue to the next test. If it’s built with trusses,
however, consider remodeling your basement instead.
The problem is that the internal supports in trusses Rafters
leave too little space to work with, and trusses cannot
be altered.
The next step is to check for headroom and overall
floor space. Most building codes call for 7½ feet of
headroom over 50 percent of the “usable” floor space, Floor joists
which is defined as any space with a ceiling height
of at least 5 feet Remember that these minimums
apply to the finished space—after the flooring and Rafter framing creates open space in an attic because
ceiling surfaces are installed. Other things can affect the rafters carry most of the roof’s weight.
headroom, as well, such as reinforcing the floor frame,
and increasing rafter depth for strength or insulation.
You may also find various supports in your attic that
are there to strengthen your roof but may limit your
space. Collar ties are horizontal boards that join two
rafters together in the upper third of the rafter span.
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
They prevent rafter uplift in high winds. Often collar ties Chords
can be moved up a few inches but cannot be removed. Webs
Rafter ties join rafters in the lower third of their span
to prevent spreading. In most attics, the ceiling or floor
joists serve as rafter ties. Purlins are horizontal boards
that run at right angles to the rafters and are supported
by struts. These systems shorten the rafter span, Trusses are made of interconnected cords and webs,
allowing the use of smaller lumber for the rafters. You which close off most of the attic space.
may be allowed to substitute kneewalls for purlins and
New Dormer
struts. If you’ll need to have any support system altered
or moved, consult an architect or engineer.
The rafters themselves also need careful
examination. Inspect them for signs of stress or damage,
7 1⁄2 ft. such as cracks, sagging, and insect infestation. Look for
5 ft.
dark areas indicating roof leaks. If you find leaks or you
know your roofing is past its useful life, have it repaired
or replaced before you start the finishing process. And
even if the rafters appear healthy, they may be too
small to support the added weight of finish materials.
Small rafters can also be a problem if they don’t provide
Habitable rooms must be at least 70 sq. ft. total and enough room for adequate insulation.
measure at least 7' in any one direction. To meet headroom At this point, it’s a good idea to have a professional
requirements, 50% of the usable floor space must have a
check the structural parts of your attic, including the
ceiling height of 7½' You can add to your floor space and
headroom by adding protruding windows called dormers. rafters and everything from the floor down. In some
In addition to space, dormers add light and ventilation to cases, finishing an attic is like adding a story to yourProof 1
your attic. home, which means that the structure must have
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adequate support for the new space. Attic floors are an egress window. Most codes also have minimum
often built as ceiling frames for the level below and requirements for ventilation and natural light, which
are not intended to support living space. Floors can be means you may have to add windows or skylights.
strengthened with additional joists, known as sister joists One of the largest expenses of finishing an
or with new joists installed between the existing ones. attic is in providing access: You’ll need a permanent
Support for the attic floor is provided by the load- stairway at least 36 inches wide, with room for a
bearing walls below and, ultimately, by the foundation. 36-inch landing at the top and bottom. This is an
If these elements can’t support the finished attic, important planning issue because adding a stairway
they’ll need to be reinforced. This may be as simple affects the layout and traffic patterns of the attic as
as strengthening the walls with plywood panels or as well as the floor below.
complicated as adding support posts and beams or Finally, take an inventory of existing mechanicals
reinforcing the foundation. in your attic. While plumbing and wiring runs can
In addition to these structural matters, there are be moved relatively easily, other features, such as
a few general code requirements you should keep in chimneys, must be incorporated into your plans.
mind as you inspect your attic. If you plan to add a This is a good time to have your chimney inspected
bedroom, it will need at least one exit to the outside. by a fire official and to obtain the building code
This can be a door leading to an outside stairwell or specifications for framing around chimneys.
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
Gable vent
Collar tie
Rafter
Gable wall
Purlin
Strut
Floor joists
Exterior
load-
bearing
Interior load-bearing wall wall
Proof 1
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E VA LUAT I NG YOU R BA SE M E N T
T he two things that put an end to most basement
finishing plans are inadequate headroom and
moisture. Begin your evaluation by measuring from the
discussion on this critical matter, see Controlling
Moisture, on page 330. Be aware that moisture
problems must be corrected before you start the
basement floor to the bottom of the floor joists above. finishing process.
Most building codes require habitable rooms to have a A well-built basement is structurally sound and
finished ceiling height of 7½ feet, measured from the provides plenty of support for finished space, but
finished floor to the lowest part of the finished ceiling. before you cover up the walls, floor, and ceiling, check
However, obstructions, such as beams, soffits, and for potential problems. Inspect the masonry carefully.
pipes, (spaced at least 4 feet on center) usually can Large cracks may indicate shifting of the soil around
hang down 6 inches below that height. Hallways and the foundation; severely bowed or out-of-plumb walls
bathrooms typically need at least 7-foot ceilings. may be structurally unsound. Small cracks usually
While it’s impractical to add headroom in a cause moisture problems rather than structural woes,
basement, there are some ways of working around the but they should be sealed to prevent further cracking.
requirements. Ducts and pipes often can be moved, Contact an engineer or foundation contractor for help
and beams and other obstructions can be incorporated with foundation problems. If you have an older home,
into walls or hidden in closets or other uninhabitable you may find sagging floor joists overhead or rotted
spaces. Also, some codes permit lower ceiling heights wood posts or beams; any defective wood framing will
in rooms with specific purposes, such as recreation have to be reinforced or replaced.
rooms. If headroom is a problem, talk to the local Your basement’s mechanicals are another
building department before you dash your dreams. important consideration. The locations of water
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
If your basement passes the headroom test, you heaters, pipes, wiring, circuit boxes, furnaces, and
can move on to the next issue: moisture. For a full ductwork can have a significant impact on the cost
and difficulty of your project. Can you plan around
components, or will they have to be moved? Is there
enough headroom to install a suspended ceiling so
mechanicals can remain accessible? Or, will you have
to reroute pipes and ducts to increase headroom?
Electricians and HVAC contractors can assess your
systems and suggest modifications.
Aside from being dark and scary places,
unfinished basements often harbor toxic elements.
Obstructions
One of the most common is radon, a naturally
spaced 4' occurring radioactive gas that is odorless and colorless.
apart: 7'
Hallways & It’s believed that prolonged exposure to high levels
Bathrooms: 7' of radon can cause lung cancer. The Environmental
Habitable Protection Agency has free publications to help
Rooms:
7½' you test for radon and take steps to reduce the
levels in your house. For starters, you can perform
a “short-term” test using a kit from a hardware
store or home center. Look for the phrase “Meets
EPA requirements” to ensure the test kit is accurate.
Keep in mind that short-term tests are not as
Basement headroom is often limited by beams, ducts, pipes,
and other elements. Typical minimums for ceiling height are
shown here: 7½' for habitable rooms; 7' for bathrooms andProof 1
hallways; 7' for obstructions spaced no less than 4' apart.
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Tips for Evaluating Your Basement ▸
Rerouting service lines and mechanicals adds quickly Weakened or undersized joists and other framing
to the expense of a project, so consider your options carefully. members must be reinforced or replaced.
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
Old insulation containing asbestos poses a serious Minor cracks such as these in masonry walls and floors
health risk if it is deteriorating or is disturbed. usually can be sealed and forgotten, while severe cracking
may indicate serious structural problems.
conclusive as professional, long-term tests. If your test compliant bulkhead (an exterior stairway with cellar
reveals high levels of radon, contact a radon specialist. doors). Each bedroom will also need an egress window
Another basement hazard is insulation containing or door for escape.
asbestos, which was commonly used in older homes Stairways must also meet local code
for insulating ductwork and heating pipes. In most specifications. If yours doesn’t, you’ll probably have
cases, this insulation can be left alone provided it’s in to hire someone to rebuild it. See page 344 for an
good condition and is protected from damage. If you overview of typical staircase requirements.
fear the insulation in your basement poses a hazard, As a final note, if you’re planning to finish the
contact an asbestos abatement contractor to have it basement in a new house, ask the builder how long
evaluated or safely removed. you should wait before starting the project. Poured
Also check the local codes for exits from finished concrete walls and floors need time to dry out before
basements—most codes require two. The stairway they can be covered. Depending on where you live,
commonly serves as one exit, while the other can be you may be advised to wait up to two years, just to
Proof 1
a door to the outside, an egress window, or a code- be safe.
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CONTROLLING MOISTURE
B asement moisture can destroy your efforts to
create a functional living space. Over time, even
small amounts of moisture can rot framing, turn
wallboard to mush, and promote the growth of mold
and mildew. Before proceeding with your basement
project, you must deal with any moisture issues. The
good news is that moisture problems can be resolved,
often very easily.
Basement moisture appears in two forms:
condensation and seepage. Condensation comes
from airborne water vapor that turns to water when it
contacts cold surfaces. Vapor sources include humid
outdoor air, poorly ventilated appliances, damp walls,
and water released from concrete. Seepage is water
that enters the basement by infiltrating cracks in the
foundation or by leeching through masonry, which is
naturally porous. Often caused by ineffective exterior
drainage, seepage comes from rain or groundwater
that collects around the foundation or from a rising
water table. Repairing cracks restores the integrity of concrete foundation
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
walls that leak, but it is often only a temporary fix. Selecting an
If you have a wet basement, you’ll see evidence appropriate repair product and doing careful preparation will
of moisture problems. Typical signs include peeling make the repair more long lasting. A hydraulic concrete repair
paint, white residue on masonry (called efflorescence), product like the one seen here is perfect for basement wall
mildew stains, sweaty windows and pipes, rusted repair because it actually hardens from contact with water.
appliance feet, rotted wood near the floor, buckled
floor tile, and strong mildew odor.
To reduce condensation, run a high-capacity extensive action. Serious water problems are typically
dehumidifier in the basement. Insulate cold-water handled by installing footing drains or sump pump
pipes to prevent condensate drippage, and make sure systems. Footing drains are installed around the
your dryer and other appliances have vents running to foundation’s perimeter, near the footing, and they
the outside. Extending central air conditioning service drain out to a distant area of the yard. These usually
to the basement can help reduce vapor during warm, work in conjunction with waterproof coatings on the
humid months. exterior side of the foundation walls. Sump systems
Crawlspaces can also promote condensation, use an interior underslab drainpipe to collect water
as warm, moist air enters through vents and meets in a pit, and water is ejected outside by an electric
cooler interior air. Crawlspace ventilation is a source sump pump.
of ongoing debate, and there’s no universal method Installing a new drainage system is expensive
that applies to all climates. It’s best to ask the local and must be done properly. Adding a sump system
building department for advice on this matter. involves breaking up the concrete floor along the
Solutions for preventing seepage range basement’s perimeter, digging a trench, and laying
from simple do-it-yourself projects to expensive, a perforated drainpipe in a bed of gravel. After
professional jobs requiring excavation and foundation the sump pit is installed, the floor is patched with
work. Since it’s often difficult to determine the new concrete. Installing a footing drain is far more
source of seeping water, it makes sense to try some complicated. This involves digging out the foundation,
common cures before calling in professional help. installing gravel and drainpipe, and waterproofing the
If the simple measures outlined here don’t correct foundation walls. A footing drain is considered a
your moisture problems, you must consider more last-resort measure.Proof 1
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Gutter:
slope toward down-
spout 1⁄ 16" per 1'
Cracks
in wall
Poorly
designed
window
well
Downspout
Improper grading
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
Leaky Cracks
joints in slab
Grade:
6' from foundation Footing
slope down 1" per 1'
Downspout
extension
Splash block
Improve your gutter system and foundation grade Common causes of basement moisture include improper
to prevent rainwater and snowmelt from flooding your grading around the foundation, inadequate or faulty gutter
basement. Keep gutters clean and straight. Make sure there’s a systems, condensation, cracks in foundation walls, leaky joints
downspout for every 50' of roof eave, and extend downspouts between structural elements, and poorly designed window
at least 8' from the foundation. Build up the grade around the wells. More extensive problems include large cracks in the
foundation so that it carries water away from the house. foundation, damaged or missing drain tiles, a high water table,
or the presence of underground streams. Often, a combination
of factors is at fault.
Proof 1
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■ HOW TO SE A L C R AC K S I N A FOU N DAT ION WA L L
1 2 3
To repair a stable crack, chisel cut To help seal against moisture, fill the Mix hydraulic cement according
a keyhole cut that’s wider at the base crack with expanding insulating foam, to the manufacturer’s instructions,
then at the surface, and no more than working from bottom to top. then trowel it into the crack, working
½" deep. Clean out the crack with a from the bottom to top. Apply cement
wire brush. in layers no more than ¼" thick, until
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
the patch is slightly higher than the
surrounding area. Feather cement
with the trowel until it’s even with the
surface. Allow to dry thoroughly.
■ HOW TO SK I M - COAT A FOU N DAT ION WA L L
1 2
Resurface heavily cracked masonry walls with a water-resistant Scratch the surface with a paintbrush cleaner
masonry coating such as surface bonding cement. Clean and dampen the or a homemade scratching tool after the coating
walls according to the coating manufacturer’s instructions, then fill large has set up for several hours. After 24 hours, apply a
cracks and holes with the coating. Finally, plaster a ¼" layer of the coating second, smooth coat. Mist the wall twice a day for
on the walls using a square-end trowel. Specially formulated heavy-duty three days as the coating cures.Proof 1
masonry coatings are available for very damp conditions.
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■ PR E V E N T I NG MOI ST U R E I N BA SE M E N T S
Waterproof Paint ▸
Masonry paints and sealers, especially those that
are described as waterproof, are rather controversial
products. Some manufacturers claim that applying a coat
of their waterproof paint will create a seal that can hold
back moisture, even under light hydrostatic pressure.
Others suggest only that their product, when applied to
a basement wall, will create a skin that inhibits water
penetration from the interior side.
Masonry paints do hold up better on concrete
surfaces than other types, largely because they are higher
in alkali and therefore less reactive with cement-based
materials. But they also can trap moisture in the concrete,
which will cause the paint to fail prematurely and can
cause the concrete to degrade, especially if the water
freezes. Read the product label carefully before applying
waterproof paint to your basement walls, and make sure
to follow the preparation protocols carefully. If you have
a foundation wall with an active water-seepage problem,
address the problem with the other methods shown in this
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
section, including grading and gutters. A coat of waterproof
paint is not going to make your basement drier.
Clean your gutters and patch any holes. Make sure Cover window wells that will otherwise allow water into a basement.
the gutters slope toward the downspouts at about Covering them with removable plastic is the easiest way to keep them
1
⁄16" per 1' Add downspout extensions and splash dry. Covers on egress window wells must be easily removed from inside.
blocks to keep roof runoff at least 8' away from If you prefer to leave wells uncovered, add a gravel layer and a drain
the foundation. to the bottom of the well. Clean the well regularly to remove moisture-
Proof 1
heavy debris.
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■ DR A I NAG E S OLU T ION: HOW TO R E G R A DE
Establish the drainage slope. The yard around your house Redistribute the soil with a steel garden rake so the grade
should slant away from the house at a minimum slope of ¾" follows the slope line. Add topsoil at the high end if needed. Do
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
per 1' for at least 10'. Till the soil or add new soil around the not excavate near the end of the slope to accommodate the
house perimeter. Drive a wood stake next to the house and grade. The goal is to build up the yard to create runoff.
another 10' out. Tie a level mason’s string between the stakes,
and then move the string down at least 2½" at the end away
from the house, establishing your minimum slope.
Use a grading rake to smooth out the soil so it slopes at Tamp the soil with a hand tamper or plate compactor. Fill inProof 1
an even rate. Drive additional stakes and tie off slope lines any dips that occur with fresh dirt. Lay sod or plant grass or
as necessary. groundcover immediately.
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■ DR A I NAG E S OLU T ION: HOW TO I NSTA L L A DRY W E L L
A dry well is a simple way to channel excess water out
of low-lying or water-laden areas, such as the ground
beneath a gutter downspout. It usually consists of a
2
buried drain tile running from a catch basin positioned
at the problem spot, to a collection container some
distance away. In the project shown here, a perforated
plastic drain tile carries water from the catch basin to
a plastic trashcan that has been punctured and filled
with stones. The runoff water percolates into the soil
as it makes its way along the drain tile and through the
dry well.
1
Set a length of perforated drain tile on the gravel
running the full length of the trench. If the trench starts at a
downspout, position a grated catch basin directly beneath
the downspout and attach the end of the drain tile to the
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
outlet port.
3
Dig a trench (10" wide, 14" deep) from the area where the
water collects to the catch basin location, sloping the trench 2"
per 8'. Line the trench with landscape fabric and then add a 1"
layer of gravel on top of the fabric.
Dry Wells for Drainage ▸
A dry well is installed
to help give runoff water Install the dry well by digging a hole that’s big enough to
an escape route so it hold a plastic trash can. Drill 1" holes through the sides and
doesn’t collect around the bottom of the can every 4 to 6". Also cut an access hole at
house foundation. the top of the can for the drain tile. Set the can in the hole
Proof 1
and insert the free end of the tile. Backfill dirt over the tile
and trench and plant grass or cover with sod.
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I NSU L AT I NG BA SE M E N T S & AT T IC S
I nsulating basements is a tricky topic. In colder
climates, insulation is necessary for the successful
creation of a livable basement room. But the practice
is fraught with pitfalls that can cause a host of
problems. There are two definites, in any case:
• The exterior is often a better location for new
insulation than the interior of basement walls.
• Never insulate a wall that is not dry and
well drained.
Almost all of the issues surrounding basement wall
insulation have to do with moisture and water vapor.
How these issues affect your plans will depend a
great deal on your climate, as well as on the specific
characteristics of your house, your building site, and
whether or not your home was built with foundation
drains and a pumping system.
Until recently, basements most often were Install insulation on the exterior of the wall, not the
insulated from the inside because it is easier, faster, interior, whenever possible. Exterior insulation results in a
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
and cheaper. A typical installation would be to attach warm wall that will have less of a problem with condensation.
furring strips (2 × 2, 2 × 3, or 2 × 4) to the foundation The wall also can breathe and dry out more easily if the interior
side has no vapor retarder.
wall at standard wall stud spacing, and then fill in
between the strips with fiberglass insulation batts.
A sheet plastic vapor barrier would then be stapled
over the insulated wall prior to hanging wallcoverings Because it is often unnecessary to insulate the full
(usually wallboard or paneling). Experience has height of the wall, you may find that an exterior apron
shown this model to be a poor method, very frequently insulating approach is easier than you imagined (see
leading to moisture buildup within the wall that pages 338 to 339). If your circumstances absolutely
encourages mold growth and has a negative impact require that you insulate inside, use insulating
on the indoor air quality. The building materials products such as extruded polystyrene or foil-faced
also tend to fail prematurely from the sustained isocyanurate that do not absorb water or provide food
moisture presence. for mold. You should also keep the wall isolated from
If your basement plans require that you insulate the insulation: attach the insulation first, seal it, and
the foundation walls, make certain that the walls are then construct a stud wall that has no direct contact
dry and that any moisture problems are corrected with the concrete or concrete block wall (see pages
(see previous section). Then, look first at the exterior. 340 to 341).
High-Efficiency Upgrades ▸
Replace old gas water heaters with high-efficiency models. Not only will this save money on your utilities bill, it will also
keep your basement warmer. The more efficient your heater is, the less air it will require for fuel combustion, which means
less fresh cold air is drawn into the basement to replace the air consumed by the appliance.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSU L AT E BA SE M E N T S & AT T IC S
1 2
Install rigid foam insulation in basements, both on the Improve insulation and thermal seals in attics and other
exterior and the interior. Extruded polystyrene (sometimes parts of your house to keep basements warmer in winter. By
called beadboard) is an economical choice for larger areas, and reducing the amount of warm air that escapes through the
it forms its own vapor-retarding layer when properly installed roof, you will reduce the amount of cold air that is drawn in
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
and sealed. High-density polystyrene and isocyanurate are through the basement walls to replace the air.
denser insulation boards with higher R-values. Isocyanurate
usually has one or two foil faces. It is used to seal rim joists but
is a good choice for any basement wall location.
3 What Is a Dry Wall? ▸
When building experts warn never to insulate a wall
that isn’t dry, they have something very specific in
mind. A wall that appears dry to the touch may not
be classified as dry if it is constantly evaporating
small amounts of moisture that will be blocked if
you install any kind of vapor retarder (as is likely the
case). A dry wall (suitable for interior insulation) is one
that is superficially dry to the touch and also meets
these criteria:
• Has a positive drainage system capable
of removing water that accumulates from
any source (this is typically in the form of a
sump pump).
Seal furnace ducts to reduce air leakage. Use a combination • The foundation wall and floor are structured
of UL 181-rated duct tape (foil tape) and duct mastic. If cold-air
to provide drainage of water away from the
return ducts leak, for example, they will draw air from the
basement into the air supply system. As with heat loss through house, often through the use of drain tiles and
the attic, this will cause fresh cold air to enter the basement footing drains
and lower the ambient temperature.
Proof 1
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■ I NSU L AT ION S OLU T ION: E X T E R IOR A PRON I NSU L AT ION
Insulate foundation walls on the exterior side (and
not the interior) whenever you can. The easiest way
to accomplish this is by installing insulation in the Flashing
apron area only, so you do not have to excavate all the
way to the bottom of the wall. By adding a layer of Siding or
protective
horizontal insulation in the bottom of the trench, you panels Foundation
wall
can realize at least 70 percent of the energy savings of
insulating the whole wall, while limiting your digging
to 18 inches down and 24 inches out.
Because you will be adding width to the
foundation wall by installing exterior insulation, you
will need to install flashing to cover the top of the Drainage Rigid foam
insulation layer and whatever protective wall surface gravel insulation
Sand
you cover it with. For the project shown here, the
insulation is covered with panelized veneer siding
over 1-inch-thick rigid foam insulation boards.
For extra protection, coat the cleaned walls with Drain tile to
sump pump
a layer of bituminous coating before installing the
insulation boards. Apron insulation is an easy and effective way to make the
basement more comfortable, and save energy without causing
any moisture issues.
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A PRON I NSU L AT ION
1 2
Dig an 18 × 24" wide trench next to the wall being Coat the wall with a layer of bituminous coating once you
insulated. Make sure to first have your local utilities company have cleaned it with a hose or pressure washer. The coating
flag any lines that may be in the area. simply creates another layer of moisture protection for
the basement.Proof 1
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3 4
Line the trench with a 2"-thick layer of coarse sand, and then Install drip edge flashing to protect the tops of the
strips of rigid foam insulation. The sand should slope away insulation board and new siding. Pry back the bottom edge
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
from the house slightly, and the insulation strips should butt up of the siding slightly and slip the flashing flange up underneath
against the foundation wall. the siding. The flashing should extend out far enough to cover
both layers of new material (at least 11⁄2 to 2").
5 6
Bond strips of rigid foam insulation board to the Install siding or another protective layer over the insulation.
foundation wall using a panel adhesive that is compatible with Here, 2 × 4' faux stone panels are being used. Once the panels
foam. Press the tops of the boards up against the drip edge are in place, backfill the trench with dirt or gravel. Make sure to
flashing. When all the boards are installed, tape over the butted maintain minimum slopes for runoff at grade.
seams with insulation tape.
Proof 1
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■ I NSU L AT ION SOLU T ION FOR DRY WA L L S: I N T E R IOR WA L L I NSU L AT ION
As a general rule, avoid insulating the interior side 2" foil-faced
polyisocyanurate
of your basement walls. It is best to leave breathing
1 1⁄ 2" foil-faced
space for the concrete or block so moisture that polyisocyanurate
enters through the walls is not trapped. If your Cap plate
exterior basement walls meet the definition of a dry
wall (see page 337) however, adding some interior ½" drywall
mounted to
insulation can increase the energy efficiency of your 2 × 2 frame
basement. If you are building a stud wall for hanging
2" polystyrene
wallcovering materials, you can insulate between the
studs with rigid foam—do not use fiberglass batts
and do not install a vapor barrier. If you are building a
stud wall, it’s a good idea to keep the wall away from 1 1⁄ 2"-deep
the basement wall so there is an air channel between receptacle
box
the two.
Sole plate
Interior insulation can be installed if your foundation walls
meet the conditions for dry walls (see page 337). It is important
to keep the framed wall isolated from the basement wall with a
seamless layer of rigid insulation board.
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
■ HOW TO I NSU L AT E A N I N T E R IOR BA SE M E N T WA L L
1 2
Begin on the exterior wall by digging a trench and installing Insulate the rim joist with strips of 2"-thick isocyanurate
a 2"-thick rigid foam insulation board up to the bottom of the rigid insulation with foil facing. Be sure the insulation you
siding and down at least 6" below grade. The main purpose of purchase is rated for interior exposure (exterior products can
this insulation is to inhibit convection and air transfer in the produce bad vapors). Use adhesive to bond the insulation to
wall above grade. See pages 338 to 339 for more information the rim joist, and then caulk around all the edges with
on how to use flashing and siding to conceal and protect the acoustic sealant.
insulation board.Proof 1
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3 4
Seal and insulate the top of the foundation wall, if it is Attach sheets of 2"-thick extruded polystyrene insulation to
exposed, with strips of 11⁄2"-thick, foil-faced isocyanurate the wall from the floor to the top of the wall with construction
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
insulation. Install the strips using the same type of adhesive adhesive. Make sure to clean the wall thoroughly and let it dry
and caulk you used for the rim joist insulation. completely before installing the insulation.
5 6
Seal the gaps between the insulation boards with insulation Install a stud wall by fastening the cap plate to the ceiling
vapor barrier tape. Do not caulk gaps between the insulation joists and the sole plate to the floor. If you have space, allow an
boards and the floor. air channel between the studs and the insulation. Do not install
a vapor barrier.
Proof 1
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F R A M I NG SOF F I T S
U nfinished basements and other areas often
contain elements like beams, pipes, and ductwork
that may be vital to your house but become big
and other framed structures have fireblocking every
10 feet and at the intersections between soffits and
neighboring walls. Remember too, that drain cleanouts
obstacles to finishing the space. When you can’t and shutoff valves must be accessible, so you’ll need to
conceal the obstructions within walls, and you’ve install access panels at these locations.
determined it’s too costly to move them, hide them
inside a framed soffit or chase. This can also provide
a place to run smaller mechanicals, like wiring and
water supply lines.
You can frame a soffit with a variety of materials
including 2 × 2 lumber and 15⁄8-inch steel studs.
Both work well because they’re small and lightweight
(though steel is usually easier to work with because
it’s always straight). For large soffits that will house
lighting fixtures or other elements, you might want the
strength of 2 × 4s or 35⁄8-inch steel studs. Soffits will require an access panel if they house electrical
junction boxes or shutoffs for water or gas supply lines. You
There may be code restrictions about the types of
can plan these into your framing or create them after the
mechanicals that can be grouped together, as well as wallcovering is installed, as in the framed opening above. Here,
minimum clearances between the framing and what it a wood frame is glued to the soffit to create support ledges for
encloses. Most codes also specify that soffits, chases, the removable wallboard cutout.
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
A soffit is a bump-out that drops down from the ceiling to conceal ductwork, recessed light fixtures and other obstructions.Proof 1
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■ VA R I AT IONS FOR BU I L DI NG S OF F I T S
2 × 2 soffit: Build two ladder-like frames
for the soffit sides using standard 2 ×
2s. Install braces every 16" or 24" to
provide nailing support for the edges of
the drywall. Attach the side frames to the
joists on either side of the obstruction
using nails or screws. Then, install
crosspieces beneath the obstacle, tying
the two sides together.
Simple steel-frame soffit: With ½"
drywall, this construction works for soffits
up to 16" wide; with 5⁄8" drywall, up to 24"
wide. Use 15⁄8, 2½, or 35⁄8" steel studs and
tracks (see page 41). Fasten a track to the
ceiling and a stud to the adjoining wall
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
using drywall screws. Cut a strip of drywall
to form the side of the soffit, and attach
a steel stud flush with the bottom edge
of the strip using Type S screws. Attach
the assembly to the ceiling track, then
cut and install drywall panels to form the
soffit bottom.
Steel-frame soffit with braces: Use 15⁄8,
21⁄2, or 35⁄8" steel studs and tracks. Fasten a
track to the ceiling and wall with drywall
screws. Cut studs to form the side and
bottom of the soffit, fasten them to the
tracks every 16" or 24" on center, using
Type S panhead screws, then join the
pieces with metal angle (you can use a
steel track cut in half lengthwise). Use a
string line and locking clamps to help
keep the frame straight and square
during construction.
Proof 1
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STA I RWAYS
E ven though your basement most likely has an
existing stairway, this essential element should
still be part of your initial planning. Older basement
Begin by fixing any obvious problems. Loose
banisters or handrails, broken treads, risers, or
balusters, or even squeaky stairs, should all be
staircases don’t necessarily comply with modern remedied as part of a basement renovation. Small
building codes, and may need to be upgraded as part staircase problems can often turn into larger issues,
of your remodeling project. Making sure that the especially when the traffic on the stairs increases.
staircase meets or exceeds local building codes is But even if the existing structure is sound and
only common sense; codes governing staircases were in good shape, you may want to upgrade some
established based on time-tested realities about how parts of the staircase. A new railing with turned
people walk up and down stairs. Codes focus on safety balusters and a detailed banister can bring a fresh
and comfort, which should be your key concerns in new perspective—not only to the staircase, but to
any changes you make to your basement staircase. the entire basement. Changes like this will probably
Start with the basic measurements. Any staircase not challenge your DIY expertise, and can be
serving your basement should be as wide as possible, hugely rewarding.
and comfortable to navigate. Otherwise, even the most Bigger changes, including adding a landing,
beautiful basement rec room or home theater will be changing the direction of all or part of the staircase,
uninviting. Although you can build your own staircase or completely reinforcing the staircase, may call for
(and you’ll even find complete kits available that make some professional help. Because staircases are such
the process fairly easy and straightforward), chances are essential access points, carefully consider the changes
that your basement already has a quite serviceable set you want to make and how likely you are to complete
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
of stairs. It’s easy enough to adapt, upgrade, or renovate them quickly and completely on your own. If you have
what’s there, to specifically serve your remodeling goals. doubts, best to call in a pro to help out.
Landing:
36" (min.)
Handrail:
34 to 38"
Tread
Headroom:
depth:
6' 8"
10" (min.)
Stud wall
Riser height:
7¼" (7¾" max.)
Landing:
36" (min.)
Basement stairs must be wide enough and within the allowable slope for rise and run. They also must have a grippable
handrail and a clear landing area of at least 36 × 36" at both the top and bottom. They should be at least 36" wide with a minimum
of 6' 8" of headroom. If your house was built prior to the 1960s, there is a good chance the basement stairs don’t conform to these
standards (they may not even come close). Because you will be creating livable space, most municipalities will require that you
upgrade or replace your stairs to meet the above requirements. Even if your local codes don’t demand it, however, you shouldProof 1
make upgrading your stairs phase one of your project anyway. Safety and convenience are reason enough.
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■ STA I RWAY ST Y L E S
L-SHAPED STAIR STRAIGHT STAIR STANDARD
WITH OPEN RISERS SWITCHBACK STAIR
STRAIGHT STAIR SWITCHBACK STAIR SWITCHBACK STAIR
WITH WINDERS WITH INTERMEDIATE FLIGHT
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
SIDE-FLIGHT STAIR Depending on where they are located
in a space, stairs can be freestanding (with
no walls on either side) open on one side,
or entirely enclosed by walls. As you will
see, there are dozens of variations on
these common types.
Proof 1
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BU I L DI NG AT T IC F LOOR S
B efore you build the walls that will define the
rooms in your attic, you’ll need a sturdy floor
beneath it all. Existing floors in most unfinished attics
be able to support 40 pounds per square foot of live
load (occupants, furniture) and 10 psf dead load
(wallboard, floor covering).
are merely ceiling joists for the floor below and are too The floor joist cavities offer space for concealing
small to support a living space. the plumbing, wiring, and ductwork servicing your
There are several options for strengthening your attic, so consider these systems as you plan. You’ll
attic’s floor structure. The simplest method is to also need to locate partition walls to determine if any
install an additional, identically sized joist next to additional blocking between joists is necessary.
each existing joist, connecting the two with nails. This When the framing is done, the mechanical
process is known as sistering. elements and insulation are in place, and everything
Sistering doesn’t work when joists are smaller has been inspected and approved, complete the floor
than 2 × 6s, are spaced too far apart, or where there by installing ¾-inch tongue-and-groove plywood. If
are obstructions, such as plaster keys, from the ceiling your remodel will include kneewalls, you can omit the
below. An alternative is to build a new floor by placing subflooring behind the kneewalls, but there are good
larger joists between the existing ones. By resting reasons not to: A complete subfloor will add strength to
the joists on 2 × 4 spacers, you avoid obstructions the floor, and will provide a sturdy surface for storage.
and minimize damage to the ceiling surface below.
However, be aware that the spacers will reduce your
headroom by 1½ inches, plus the added joist depth.
Tools & Materials ▸
To determine the best option for your attic, Circular saw Hammer or nail gun
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
consult an architect, engineer, or building contractor, Rafter square 2 × joist lumber
as well as a local building inspector. Ask what size Drill 2 × 4 lumber
of joists you’ll need and which options are allowed Caulk gun ¾" T&G plywood
in your area. Joist sizing is based on the span (the 16d, 10d, and 8d Construction adhesive
distance between support points), the joist spacing common nails 2¼" drywall or deck screws
(typically 16 or 24 inches on center), and the type Tape measure Eye and ear protection
of lumber used. In most cases, an attic floor must
Rafter Floor joists
Exterior load- Interior load-
bearing wall bearing wallProof 1 2 T
Attic joists typically rest on top of exterior walls and on an interior load-bearing wall, where they overlap from side to side
and are nailed together. Always use a sheet of plywood as a platform while working over open joists.
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■ HOW TO A DD SI ST E R JOI ST S
1 2
Remove all insulation from the joist cavities and carefully Before cutting, sight down both
remove any blocking or bridging between the joists. Determine narrow edges of each board to
the lengths for the sister joists by measuring the existing joists. check for crowning—upward
Also measure at the outside end of each joist to determine arching along the length of the
how much of the top corner was cut away to fit the joist board. Draw an arrow that points
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
beneath the roof sheathing. Note: Joists that rest on a bearing in the direction of the arch. Joists
wall should overlap each other by at least 3". must be installed “crown-up;”
this arrow designates the top
edge. Cut the board to length,
then clip the top, outside corner
3 to match the existing joists.
4
Set the sister joists in place, flush against the existing joists Nail the joists together using 10d common nails. Drive three
and with their ends aligned. Toenail each sister joist to the top nails in a row, spacing the rows 12 to 16" apart. To minimize
plates of both supporting walls, using two 16d common nails. damage to the ceiling surface below caused by the hammering
(such as cracking and nail popping), you can use an air-
powered nail gun (available at rental stores), or 3" lag screws
instead of nails. Install new blocking between the sistered
Proof 1
joists, as required by the local building code.
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■ HOW TO BU I L D A N E W AT T IC F L OOR
1 2
Remove any blocking or bridging from between the Create a layout for the new joists by measuring across the
existing joists, being careful not to disturb the ceiling below. tops of the existing joists and using a rafter square to transfer
Cut 2 × 4 spacers to fit snugly between each pair of joists. Lay the measurements down to the spacers. Following 16"-on-
the spacers flat against the top plate of all supporting walls, center spacing, mark the layout along one exterior wall, then
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
and nail them in place with 16d common nails. mark an identical layout onto the interior bearing wall. Note
that the layout on the opposing exterior wall will be offset 1½"
to account for the joist overlap at the interior wall.
3 4
To determine joist length, measure from the outer edge of Set the joists in place on their layout marks. Toenail the
the exterior wall to the far edge of the interior bearing wall. The outside end of each joist to the spacer on the exterior wall,
joists must overlap each other above the interior wall by 3". using three 8d common nails.
Before cutting, mark the top edge of each joist. Cut the joists
to length, then clip the top outside corners so the ends can fitProof 1
under the roof sheathing.
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5 6
Nail the joists together where they overlap atop the interior Install blocking or bridging between the joists, as
bearing wall, using three 10d nails for each. Toenail the joists to required by the local building code. As a suggested minimum,
the spacers on the interior bearing wall, using 8d nails. the new joists should be blocked as close as possible to the
outside ends and where they overlap at the interior wall.
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
■ HOW TO I NSTA L L SU BF L OOR I NG
Subflooring
Joist
2 × 4 Backing
Install the subflooring only after all framing, plumbing, wiring, and ductwork is completed and has received the required building
inspections. Also install any insulation and complete any caulking necessary for soundproofing. Fasten the sheets with construction
adhesive and 2¼" screws, making sure the sheets are perpendicular to the joists and the end joints are staggered between rows.
Where joists overlap at an interior bearing wall, add backing as needed to compensate for the offset in the layout. Nail a 2 × 4 or
Proof 1
wider board to the face of each joist to support the edges of the intervening sheets.
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BU I L DI NG AT T IC K N E E WA L L S
A ttic kneewalls are short walls that extend from the
attic floor to the rafters. They provide a vertical
dimension to attic rooms, and without them, attics
tend to feel cramped. Kneewalls are typically 5 feet
tall, for a couple of reasons: That’s the minimum
ceiling height for usable floor space according to most
building codes, and it defines a comfortable room
without wasting too much floor space. The unfinished
space behind kneewalls doesn’t have to go to waste:
It’s great for storage and for concealing service lines.
To provide access to this space, create a framed
opening in the wall during the framing process.
Kneewalls are similar to partition walls, except they
have beveled top plates and angle-cut studs that follow
the slope of the rafters. The added stud depth created by
the angled cut requires a 2 × 6 top plate. Before starting
on your kneewall project, it may help to review the
techniques for building a partition wall (see pags 39 to 41).
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
Tools & Materials ▸
Circular saw T-bevel
Level 2 × 4 and 2 × 6 lumber Attic kneewalls are just the right height to be backdrops
Chalk line 16d and 8d common nails for furniture, and they make a perfect foundation for built-in
Tape measure Eye and ear protection storage units.
Hammer
■ HOW TO BU I L D A K N E E WA L L
1 2
Create a storyboard using a straight 2 × 4. Cut the At one end of the room, set the storyboard flat against the
board a few inches longer than the planned height of the wall. outer rafter. Plumb the storyboard with a level while aligning
Measure from one end and draw a line across the front edge the height mark with the bottom edge of the rafter. Transfer the
of the board at the exact wall height. height mark onto the rafter edge, then make a mark along theProof 1
front edge of the storyboard onto the subfloor. These marks
represent the top and bottom wall plates.
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3 4
Holding the storyboard perfectly plumb, trace along the Repeat the wall-plate marking process on the other end
bottom edge of the rafter to transfer the rafter slope onto the of the room. Snap a chalk line through the marks—across the
face of the storyboard. rafters and along the subfloor. If necessary, add backing for
fastening the top plate to the gable wall.
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
5 Rafter
6
2×6
top plate
2×4
stud
To cut a beveled edge on the top wall plate, set a T-bevel Mark the stud locations on the wall plates. Install the
to match the rafter-slope line on the storyboard. Use the plates along the chalk lines, fastening them to the rafters and
T-bevel to adjust the blade of a circular saw or tablesaw to the floor joists, respectively, using 16d nails. Measure and cut each
proper angle. Then, bevel-cut one edge of the 2 × 6 top plate. stud to fit, angle-cutting the top end so that it meets flush with
Proof 1
Note: When the top plate is laid flat across the rafters, the front the top plate. Toenail each stud in place with three 8d nails.
edge should be perpendicular to the floor.
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F R A M I NG AT T IC C E I L I NG S
By virtue of sloping roofs, most attics naturally have By contrast, a flat ceiling typically offers a
“cathedral” ceilings. It’s up to you whether to leave the cleaner, more finished appearance closer to that of
peaks intact—and apply a finish surface all the way a conventional room, and flat ceilings offer some
up to the ridge—or to frame in a horizontal ceiling, practical advantages over peaked styles. First, they
creating a flat surface that’s more like a standard provide a concealed space above the ceiling, great for
ceiling. Before deciding, consider the advantages and running service lines. If there are vents high on the
disadvantages of each treatment. gable walls, this open space can help ventilate the
If your attic has collar ties—horizontal braces roof (make sure to insulate above the ceiling). The
installed between opposing rafters—your planning ceiling itself can hold recessed lighting fixtures or
should start with those. Are the ties high enough to support a ceiling fan. And if your plans call for full-
meet the code requirements for attic headroom? If not, height partition walls, you may want a ceiling frame to
consult an architect or engineer to see if you can move enclose the top of the wall.
them up a few inches (do not move or remove them When determining the height of flat-ceiling
without professional guidance). If the ties are high framing, be sure to account for the floor and ceiling
enough, you can incorporate them into a new ceiling finishes. And remember that most building codes
or leave them exposed and wrap them with a finish require a finished ceiling height of at least 90 inches.
material, such as wallboard or finish-grade lumber. Do
not use collar ties as part of your ceiling frame.
A peaked ceiling is primarily an aesthetic option. Its Tools & Materials ▸
height expands the visual space of the room, and its rising
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
4' level 2 × 4 and 2 × 6 lumber
angles provide a dramatic look that’s unique in most
Chalk line 10d common nails
homes. Because a peaked ceiling encloses the rafter bays
Circular saw Eye and ear protection
all the way up to the ridge, this treatment may require
Hammer
additional roof vents to maintain proper ventilation.
Exposed collar ties can add
an interesting architectural
Collar tie element to a peaked ceiling.
By adding to the existing ties,
you can create a channel for
holding small light fixtures.
Flat attic ceilings provide space for recessed light fixtures, Added
trimProof 1
vents, and speakers.
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■ HOW TO F R A M E A F L AT C E I L I NG
1 2
Make a storyboard for the planned height of the ceiling Using a level and the storyboard, level over from the chalk
frame. At one end of the attic, hold the storyboard plumb line and mark two outside rafters on the other side of the attic.
and align the height mark with the bottom edge of a rafter. Snap a chalk line through the marks. Note: The storyboard is
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
Transfer the mark to the rafter. Repeat at the other end of used merely as a straightedge for this step.
the attic, then snap a chalk line through the marks. This line
represents the bottom edge of the ceiling frame.
3 4
Cut 2 × 6 joists to span across the rafters, angle-cutting Nail each joist to the rafters with three 10d common nails
the ends to follow the roof pitch. Check each joist for crowning at each end. Be sure to maintain 16 or 24" on-center spacing
to make sure you’re cutting it so it will be installed with the between joists to provide support for attaching wallboard or
crowned edge up. Make the overall length about ½" short so other finish material.
Proof 1
the ends of the joists won’t touch the roof sheathing.
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A DDI NG A BA SE M E N T BAT H
A bathroom is an essential addition to any basement
efficiency apartment because this room is key to
making the as useful and independent of the upstairs
basement floor. Potential locations for your bathroom
are therefore limited by how close the main sewer
line is to the floor service where it meets the main
space as possible. Of course, bathrooms are wonderful drain stack. Check local codes for other restrictions in
basement additions, regardless of what other types of your area.
rooms you may be adding. Once you’ve cut into the main waste vent,
Many new homes are plumbed with basement there can be no drainage in the house until you
stub-outs in place. More likely, you’ll need to break have fully installed the new branch lines and
up the concrete floor to install a new drain and supply sealed the joints. Have extra pipe and fittings on
plumbing. With a jackhammer and some help, this is a hand. Cutting through concrete produces lots of
manageable DIY project. dust. Block off other areas of the basement with
Because plastic pipes cannot be encased in plastic sheeting, and wear an approved dust mask
concrete, they must be laid in granular fill beneath the or respirator.
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
Vent pipes
Drain pipes
Main stack
A half bath or three-quarter bath (as seen here) is a much- Our demonstration bathroom includes a shower, toilet,
appreciated addition to your basement if you are adding new and pedestal sink arranged in a line to simplify trenching. A 2"
living spaces elsewhere on the basement level. drainpipe services the new shower and sink; a 3" pipe services
the new toilet. The drainpipes converge at a Y-fitting joined to
the existing main drain. The toilet and sink have individual vent
pipes that meet inside the wet wall before extending up into
the attic, where they join the main waste-vent stack.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO PLU M B A BA SE M E N T BAT H
1 2 Waste-vent stack
Wet wall location
Mark the proposed location of the bathroom on the Cut out the area around the main stack. Use a concrete
basement floor using tape. Include the walls, wet wall, and fixture saw or a circular saw with a masonry blade to score a 24 × 24"
locations. The easiest configuration is to install all the fixtures square cutting line around the waste-vent stack.
against the wet wall, which will contain the water supply and The cut should be at least 1" deep.
vents. The drain lines should run parallel to the wet wall in the
most direct route to the main waste-vent stack. Mark the drain
line location (typically around 6" out from the wet wall).
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
3 4
Remove concrete and dirt around the main stack. Excavate the drain line trench. Enclose the work area with
Using a cold chisel and hand maul, strike along the scored plastic sheeting to protect the rest of the house from concrete
cutting lines to chip out the concrete around the main soil stack. dust. Use a chalk line to lay out a 24"-wide trench centered
If necessary, break up the concrete within the square so it can be over the new branch drain location. Score along the lines with
removed. Take care not to damage the pipe. Excavate within the a concrete saw or a circular saw with a masonry blade.
square to determine the depth of the sewer line where it meets
the main stack.
Proof 1
(continued)
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5 6
1" spacer
Use a jackhammer to break up the concrete in the trench, Create a flat-bottomed trench that slopes toward the main
taking care not to damage any of the existing plumbing stack at ¼" per ft. The soil will hold up the drain lines, so it is
lines. Wear gloves, eye and ear protection, and a dust mask. important to create an even surface. Use a hand tamper to
Remove the concrete for disposal. Remove dirt (technically tamp down the soil if it has been disturbed. Tape a 1" spacer
called granular fill) from the trench, starting at the main to the end of a 4' level to create a handy measuring tool for
waste-vent stack. checking the proper slope. Set the soil aside to use for backfill.
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
7 8
Cleanout
Cut the drain line or main stack (depending on how deep Cut into the stack above the cleanout, and remove the
the drain line is) using a reciprocating saw (or a snap cutter). pipe and fittings. Wear rubber gloves, and have a large plastic
Support the main waste-vent stack before cutting. Use a 2 × 4 bag and rags ready, as old pipes and fittings may be coated
and duct tape for a plastic stack, or riser clamps for a cast- with sewer sludge. Remember that no wastewater can flow in
iron stack. If cutting the horizontal drain line, cut as close as the house while the pipes are cut open. Turn off the water and
possible to the stack. drain toilets to prevent accidental use.Proof 1
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9 10
New cleanout
TY combo
Cut and test fit a new cleanout and long sweep TY combo Clean the outside of the old pipes thoroughly and apply
assembly, dry-fitting it to the drain stack and the horizontal primer. Also apply primer and solvent glue to the female
drain line to the street. Make any needed adjustments surfaces of the union fittings in the assembly. Slide the fitting
and then solvent-glue the fittings and new pipe into a assembly over the primed ends of the drain stack and the
single assembly. drain line at the same time. This requires a little bit of play
in one or both of the lines so you can manipulate the new
assembly. If your existing pipes will not move at all, you’ll need
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
to use a banded coupling on the drain stack to seal the gap.
11 Vent
Vent Main stack
Sink drain
Shower drain
Toilet drain
Cut and fit the components of the new drain line one piece at a time, starting at the stack. Use strings or boards to outline the
wet wall, so vent placement is correct. Drain lines underground must be a minimum of 2". Use 3 × 2" reducing Ys to tie the shower
drain line and the sink drain line into the toilet drain line. Install vertical drain and vent lines that are long enough to protrude well
above the level of the finished floor.
Proof 1
(continued)
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12 13
Check for leaks by pouring water into each new drainpipe. If Backfill around the pipes with the soil dug from the
the joints appear sound, contact your building department and trench. Mix and pour new concrete to cover the trench, and
arrange for your inspection (you must do this prior to covering trowel smooth. Allow the concrete to cure for three days.
the pipes). Plug the pipe openings with rags to prevent sewer Some municipalities may require that isolation membrane be
gas from escaping. Note: Some municipalities require an air wrapped around vertical pipes where they will be surrounded
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
test as well. by concrete—check with your local inspector.
14 15
Build the wet wall from 2 × 6 lumber. The sill plate should Run 2" vent pipes through notches in the studs. Assemble
be pressure treated, but the other members may be SPF. Notch with vent T and 90° fittings. The 2" pipes are larger than
the sill plate so the vent pipes clear it easily. Use masonry required, but using the same size as the drain lines eliminates
anchors or concrete nails and a powder-actuated nailer to the need for reducing fittings and makes for less waste. The
attach the plate. 90° fittings are typically less expensive than the vent elbows.Proof 1
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16 17
Route the vent pipe to a point beneath a wall cavity running Run vent pipe up through the floors above and either
from the basement to the attic. Or, if there is another vent line directly out through the roof or tie it to another vent pipe in the
closer that you can tie into, go ahead and do that. attic. Remove sections of wall surface as needed to bore holes
for running the vent pipe through wall plates. Feed the vent
pipe up into the wall cavity from the basement. Wedge the
vent pipe in place while you solvent-glue the fittings. Support
the vent pipe at each floor with plastic pipe hangers installed
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
horizontally. Stuff fiberglass insulation into holes around pipes.
Do not replace any wall coverings until you have had your
final inspection.
18 Soldering ▸
Nail
guard
Use caution when soldering copper. Pipes and
fittings become very hot and must be allowed to cool
Install the water supply plumbing. Compared to the before handling.
drain-vent plumbing, this will seem remarkably easy.
Proof 1
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■ HOW TO BU I L D A BA SE M E N T BAT H ROOM
1 2
Frame the new walls using pressure-treated sole plates. Install framing for the bathroom door (see pages 49 to
If walls will contain additional plumbing, build them from 51). For economy, a 30"-wide prehung interior door makes
2 × 6 stock. sense, but if you want to conserve space consider installing a
pocket door. They are fairly common for bathroom applications.
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
3 4
Install 12/2 NM sheathed cable to supply power for a Wire ceiling lights and any wall lights for a lighted
dedicated 20-amp small appliance circuit. Most codes have medicine chest. Recessed canister lights are a good choice for
specific requirements for spacing. The circuit must have GFCI basements because they don’t project down into the room.
protection. You can wire it with individually protected GFCI Have all wiring inspected and approved before you close up
receptacles or install a 20-amp GFCI breaker in the main the walls.
service panel. If you do not have experience with home wiring,
hire a professional.Proof 1
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5 6
Add ventilation. Basement vents require powered vent fans Install floor coverings (pages 121 to 146). Here, a bed
that can be wall-mounted or ceiling mounted. The ductwork of thinset mortar is being laid for textured porcelain floor
for the fan exhaust is normally routed out through a hole in tiles. The mortar bed usually can be applied directly to the
the rim joist of the house. If the bathroom contains a shower concrete floor.
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
or bathtub, the duct must terminate outdoors. If it is only a half
bath some codes allow you to vent into an attic.
7 8
Trim floor covering materials to fit around drainpipes in the Install the shower pan according to the manufacturer’s
floor, such as the toilet drain stub-out seen here. Complete the instructions. Some are set into a bed of mortar or mastic while
floor covering installation. others are fastened to the wall framing. Trim the drainpipe to
the recommended height first (bottom photo) and make all
drain connections.
Proof 1
(continued)
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9 10 11
Install shower supply pipes and Install the shower enclosure kit or Install ceiling coverings. While there
make hookups to the faucet body. Note: make your custom shower surround are advantages to installing a suspended
The easiest shower stalls to install are with tileboard. ceiling or acoustic tile ceiling that’s easy
freestanding, but kits and tileboard units to remove for access, mold-resistant
that are installed in framed alcoves are wallboard is economical, paintable, and
cheaper. Read the directions that come has a finished room feel that the other
with your stall to see if they recommend types lack.
installing panels, such as cementboard,
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
as backer before you install the shower.
12 13 14
Install wall coverings. Do not use Attach any other wall-mounted Cover seams and fill holes in
standard wallboard. Use mold-resistant fixtures, such as the pedestal sink the walls and ceiling with fiberglass
wallboard or cementboard throughout. being hung on a mounting plate above. wallboard tape and joint compound.
Do not install a vapor barrier behind Do all of the work requiring access to Sand the compound smooth and apply
the wallboard. wall or ceiling stud cavities before you a coat of wallboard primer.
install the wall coverings. And don’t
neglect to have inspections done.Proof 1
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15 16 17
Finish making the supply and drain Install the toilet after trimming the Paint the walls and ceiling using
hookups for the lavatory. Add faucets closet drain pipe to the correct height. a paint with a mold-resistant additive.
to all fixtures and test them. Hook up the water supply to the fill Paint the ceiling first. For bathrooms,
valve and then test the operation. Drain choose a washable, semigloss paint.
times can be a bit slower in basements,
and flushes may be weakened slightly
by the shallowness of the drain
line slopes.
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
18 19 20
Hang the entry door and install Install mirrors, medicine cabinets, Attach trim kits and escutcheons to
trim around the door as well as a towel rods, paper holders, and any light fixtures and vent fans. Add switch
baseboard trim. You may find it easier other members of the decorative plates and receptacle covers, too. Test
to paint or finish the door and trim bathroom suite. all fixtures.
before installation.
Proof 1
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AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
This cozy family room features a vent-free gas fireplace and a brand new patio door that opens out to a lower level
walkout patio.Proof 1
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I NSTA L L I NG A G A S F I R E PL AC E
T he family room is the only type of room that is
actually getting larger as a percentage of the total
floorspace in today’s new homes. Whether we use it
from upstairs to the exterior door doesn’t split the
room in two. Be a bit protective of the floorplan so
you can set up furniture or arrange activities that can
for watching movies, playing games, or just hanging proceed without constant interruptions as other family
out reading, the family room is an important place in members move from door to door.
any home. A well-designed family room is spacious, As you design your room, also take into account the
has good light, features comfortable floors, and is easy electronics that will be set up in your room. Installing
to clean. It can include a few luxurious features such high-speed computer/television cable lines, speaker
as a fireplace, a mini-kitchen with snack area, a home wire, phone lines, and other forms of structured wiring
theater setup, or a dry bar. is easiest to do when the walls are uncovered.
One important consideration when designing a The family room seen here features a vent-free
family room is traffic flow. This is especially important gas fireplace. It is not a significant heat source. If
if your family room will have exterior access like the you are interested in a fireplace that can provide
walk-out patio door seen here. Try to arrange the supplemental heat, install a direct-vent gas fireplace
room so that a line drawn from the main entry point or a woodburning one instead.
Direct vent gas fireplace Vent-free gas fireplace
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
Vent
pipe Chase
Elbow framework
(optional)
Blocking
for top
plates
Cripple
studs
Framework
for fireplace
surround
½" clearance
Header at back
of unit
Standoffs
(¼" clearance)
Platform
½" clearance
at sides of unit
Gas fireplaces come in two types for home use: direct vent (left), which must be exhausted to the home exterior, and vent-free,
which do not require venting but must be installed in either an existing firebox or a specially designed firebox that circulates air and
exhaust internally. Vent-free models are not currently allowed in the Upper Midwest, California, Alaska, Hawaii, or Canada.
Proof 1
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■ HOW TO BU I L D A FA M I LY ROOM W I T H F I R E PL AC E
1 2
Frame the new walls for the room (see pages 38 to 41). Install wiring cables in the stud walls (see page 40). Because
Here, an open area in a walkout basement with a finished family rooms normally include several types of electronic
exterior wall is being divided into a smaller finished space for a devices, consider adding multimedia outlets for coaxial cable
family room with direct access to a patio. and speaker cables.
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
3 4
Install fixture boxes for lights keeping the planned ceiling Frame the opening for the firebox according to the
material thickness and installation method in mind. Here, a manufacturer's directions and minimum clearances. Because
box is being installed for a 6' section of halogen track lighting the fireplace surround planned for this room uses 12 × 12"
to provide adjustable lighting that can be focused on the wall tile around the opening, we added full-height studs so
fireplace mantel. the required cementboard backer can be seamed with the
wallboard over a stud. A header for the opening is supported
by short jack studs at the sides.Proof 1
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5 6
Construct a support platform for the firebox. Because Secure the firebox platform in the wall opening by nailing
the firebox will be housed in open space on the other side of or screwing it to the studs at the edges of the opening. Some
the fireplace wall, we were able to get by with a simple wood manufacturers may require that you secure the platform to the
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
platform built with 2 × 4s and ¾" plywood. floor as well.
7 8
Install wallboard on ceiling. When wallboarding both the Cut cementboard into strips equal in width to the dimension
ceiling and the walls, it is usually recommended that you do of your tiled surround and attach them to the 2 × 4 nailers
the ceiling first so the vertical panels can be butted up against bordering the framed firebox opening. It is generally a good
the ceiling to provide some extra support. If you are hanging a idea to predrill for cementboard screws, especially with
suspended or tile ceiling, wallboard the walls first. narrower strips.
Proof 1
(continued)
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9 10
Install mold-resistant wallboard in the rest of the room, Apply joint compound and fiberglass seam tape over
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
keeping the bottom edges at least ½" above the floor. If you seams and cover screwheads with compound. Sand the
have planned your firebox framing properly, all wallboard compound smooth.
edges will fall over studs or cross blocks.
11 12
Prime and paint the ceiling and the walls. To boost the visual Apply a mortar bed for the tile surround using a notched
interest of the ceiling, we added some texture to the ceiling trowel (a ¼" square-notch trowel is typical but check the
paint (above) and applied it with a 5⁄8" nap roller. The effect is recommendations on the thinset package label). Apply only as
much subtler than the iconic cottage cheese ceiling of the much mortar as you can tile in about 10 minutes. Treating each
1960s and 1970s. leg of the square surround separately is a good strategy.Proof 1
368 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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13 14
Press the surround tiles into the mortar bed and set them Apply dark-tinted grout to the tiles using a grout float.
by pressing with a short piece of 2 × 4 wrapped in a soft cloth. Let the grout harden slightly and then buff off the residue
Most tiles have spacing nubs cast into the edges so setting with a soft, clean cloth.
the gaps between tiles or tile sheets is automatic. If your tiles
do not have spacing nubs, use plastic tile spacers available at
your tile store. Let the thinset mortar dry overnight once you’re
finished setting the tiles.
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
15 16
Begin adding surround trim. Here, 1 × 4 cherry casing is Add built-up head casing. The head casing should overhang
being attached to wall stud locations. The side casings should the side casings by an inch or so. We used a built-up technique
be slightly off the floor (if you have not installed flooring yet to add some depth and profile to the head casing. First, attach
account for the floor covering thickness) and butted against a full-width 1 × 4 to the wall. Then, install a 1 × 3 so the ends
the tile surround. If you have planned properly, there will be and top are flush with the ends and top of the 1 × 4. Finally,
wall studs behind the casing. Note: We chose 1 × 4 cherry install a cherry 1 × 2 in the same manner.
because it is attractive, but also because you can usually
buy it dimensioned, planed, and sanded on all sides at the
lumberyard. If you have woodworking equipment, use any
lumber you like.
Proof 1
(continued)
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17 18
Cut and install the mantel board. We used another piece of Finish-sand all the cherry and then apply a light wood stain.
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
1 × 4 cherry the same length as the head casings, but if you After the stain dries, topcoat with a cherry-tone or light
have access to woodworking tools consider a thicker board for mahogany wipe-on varnish that will even out the uneven
a little more presence. Or, face-glue two 1 × 4s together. coloration typical with cherry. Fill nail holes with cherry-tinted
wood putty.
19 20
Set the firebox for the fireplace into the finished surround Seal the gap around the firebox with high-temperature
and check for level. Fasten it to the framing by nailing or silicone sealant. Do not use ordinary caulk here because it
screwing through the nailing flange, depending on the could melt or even catch fire.
manufacturer’s recommendations.Proof 1
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21 22
Run natural gas supply pipe to within 18" or so of the gas Connect the fireplace to the gas supply with a flexible gas
inlet port on the side of the firebox. Attach a stop cock to connector tube, making sure to use gas-rated teflon tape to
the supply tube. Warning: Working with gas pipe and making lubricate screw threads on the connector. Restore the gas
gas hookups is very dangerous and in many municipalities it supply and test all connections with leak detector spray (inset).
may only be done by a licensed professional. Doing the work
yourself may also void the warranty on your gas appliance. It
AT T I C & B A S E M E N T P R OJ E C T S
is strongly recommended that you hire a professional for this
part of the project.
23 24
Install floor coverings. Snap-together laminate planks are Install baseboard moldings, lighting trim kits, and any other
easy to install and in general a good choice for basement finishing trim such as door casings. Remember to read the
family rooms (see pages 126 to 129). Trim the laminate planks vent-free fireplace manual thoroughly and follow all safety
to fit around the fireplace casings. precautions for operation. Have the unit inspected annually to
make sure it is still operating properly.
Proof 1
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KITCHEN PROJECTSProof 1 2C
372 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Text GSC SLC Page:372
KITCHEN PROJEC T S
O ther than adding space with an attic or basement
conversion (pages 326 to 363) or pulling out
the stops to add on a structural room addition (pages
495 to 556), no remodeling project is more complex,
or more expensive, than the major remodeling of a
kitchen. It can be very rewarding, however. A house
with a very old, outdated kitchen will see a dramatic
increase in market value with the installation of a new
kitchen. Real-estate professionals report that in the
right circumstances, homeowners can recoup most or
all the cost of the renovation through the increase in
their home’s value.
But for most people, the true value lies in the
improved enjoyment and function of their home
once the kitchen undergoes significant remodeling.
Although a full tear-out and installation is sometimes
done (at great cost), a major kitchen remodeling need
not be quite so dramatic. Installing new cabinets and
countertops, laying new flooring, replacing old fixtures
and appliances, and adding a few custom storage
features is within the abilities of patient DIYers and
can radically transform any kitchen.
Remember, though, that some kitchen remodels
may involve electrical or plumbing upgrades that are
beyond the scope of this book. Only very experienced
DIYers should consider this kind of work, and only
KITCHEN PROJECTS
if they have plenty of informational resources at
their disposal.
■ IN THIS CHAPTER:
• Practical Planning Tips
• Slide-Out Storage
• Countertop Selection
• Tile Backsplash
• Stock-Cabinet Island
• Two-Level Tile Island
• Island Vent Hood
• Ranges, Ovens & Cooktops
• Refrigerator Icemaker
• Dishwasher
• Range Hood/Vent Fan
• Drop-in Sink
• Undermount Sink
• Apron Sink
Proof 1 2C
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PR AC T ICA L PL A N N I NG T I P S
T here are plenty of practical things to consider
before starting a kitchen remodel, but some of
the most important involve timing and preparation.
three months to complete. Even if it’s a small-scale
project, be prepared to not have access to your kitchen
while work is being done, since even paint fumes
In short, the more planning you can do before even can disrupt daily life for a day or two. One smart
touching a tool, the better you will be able to handle solution is to create a temporary kitchen elsewhere
the inevitable setbacks. As long as you make sure that in your home where you can plug in a coffeemaker or
it doesn’t coincide with major holidays or extended microwave, or even a mini refrigerator.
houseguests, a do-it-yourself kitchen remodel doesn’t Another thing to consider is the need for permits
have to take over your life. from your local building authority. Familiarize yourself
The first tip is to be generous when creating a with local codes before you alter anything electrical
timeline. You never know when ordered parts will be or structural. For plumbing projects, you’ll want to
delayed or paint will take twice as long to dry as you look into the requirements in your area or determine
estimated. For the most part, the simplest remodel the need for a new line before you get started. As for
can be completed within a week with more extensive changes that involve ventilation, you’ll want to refer
remodels—that involve new cabinets, floors, and to some of the building codes and guidelines we’ve
professionally installed countertops—taking up to included earlier in the book.
Like successful stand-
up comedy, successful
kitchen remodeling requires
impeccable timing. Dedicate
a calendar to the projects and
be sure to keep it updated.
Planning the timing is the
only way to keep the amount
of time you’ll be without
a functioning kitchen to a
bare minimum, and it will let
KITCHEN PROJECTS
contractors and tradespeople
work more efficiently.Proof 1
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Text SLC Page:374
The most important lesson of any DIY project is to years, some conditions will cause them to deteriorate,
know when to call in the professionals. While many of making it tricky to remove them safely. And while
the how-to projects in this book are simply completed many hobbyists can pull off the replacement of upper
by someone with little construction experience, cabinets with the help of a friend, there are plenty of
some projects will be more involved than they first us who would require a team of carpenters to help
appear. For instance, replacing a resilient tile floor hang and install new cabinets.
may seem like an easy enough project, but the plot The how-to lessons in this book have been
thickens when the subfloor is revealed to be in terrible carefully broken down into step-by-step manuals for
shape and must be torn out and rebuilt. Another each project. Whether you need assistance or have
time to call in expert assistance is when plumbing lots of experience at DIY home improvement, the right
or electrical systems are more than twenty years old. tools and smart safety precautions make it possible for
Though wires and pipes are meant to last over fifty anyone to achieve dream-kitchen status.
Flextime: Your Little Secret ▸
For added security, it’s a good idea to add at least 25% If contractors know that your schedule is padded, they
more time to your best guess when determining the may feel free to bump your project for a day or two to
overall schedule for your remodeling project. Building in a squeeze in a smaller rush job for another client. To ensure
few flex days as a safeguard against unforeseen problems that your contractors stay on schedule, mark your flex days
is also a good idea. However, keep this information “cleanup” or “out of town”—don’t tell them you’ve built
to yourself. some extra time into the schedule.
Talk to Building Inspectors ▸
Although building inspectors aren’t paid
KITCHEN PROJECTS
consultants, they can be an excellent
design and planning resource. They are
your community’s field representatives,
and their job is to inspect the work done
on your project to ensure that it meets
building code requirements.
As experts in their respective fields, the
building inspector, electrical inspector,
and plumbing inspector can give you
sound advice on designing your kitchen.
Not all inspectors have the time or the
willingness to answer a lot of design
questions, so make your questions short
and specific, and be sure to describe
your situation clearly. Also ask if the
inspections office provides a pamphlet
that summarizes the local code
requirements for kitchens.
Proof 1
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SL I DE - OU T STOR AG E
A base cabinet with slide-out trays or shelves is
one of those great modern conveniences that has
become standard in new kitchen design. Not only do
and simplicity, the trays in this project are made with
¾-inch-thick plywood parts joined with glue and finish
nails. If you prefer a more finished look (not that there’s
slide-out trays make reaching stored items easier than anything wrong with the look of nice plywood), you can
with standard cabinet spaces—no more crouching use 1 × 4 hardwood stock for the tray sides and set a
and diving into the deep recesses of cavernous 3
⁄8-inch-thick plywood bottom panel into dadoes milled
low shelves—they also store more items far more into the side pieces. Another option is to assemble
efficiently. With a few shallow trays, a standard base plywood tray pieces using pocket screws so the screw
cabinet can hold dozens of food cans and still leave heads don’t show on the front pieces of the trays.
room for tall items like cereal boxes and bags of flour
or even deep pots and countertop appliances.
To get the most from your new slide-out system,
Tools & Materials ▸
think carefully about how you will use each tray. Circular saw with 1 × 2 hardwood stock
Measure the items you’re most likely to store together, straightedge guide ¾" finish-grade plywood
and let the items dictate the spacing of the trays. Most or tablesaw Wood glue
standard base cabinets are suitable for trays. Wide Drill 6d finish nails
cabinets (24 inches or wider) without a center partition Wood screws Finish materials
(middle stile) are best in terms of space usage, but trays Drawer slides Tape measure
in narrow cabinets (18 inches wide) are just as handy. If (1 set per tray) Varnish or polyurethane
you have a wide cabinet with a middle stile, you can add Hammer Eye and ear protection
trays along one or both sides of the stile. For economy
Slide-out trays eliminate
the everyday problem of
hard-to-reach and hard-
to-see spaces in standard
KITCHEN PROJECTS
base cabinets. Better still,
you can install your trays to
accommodate the stuff you
use most often.Proof 1
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■ DR AW E R SL I DE S
Drawer slides suitable for
pullout shelves are commonly
available in both standard
(left) and full extension (right)
styles. Standard slides are less
expensive and good enough for
most applications. They allow
the tray to be pulled out most
of the way. Full extension slides
are a little pricier than standard
slides but they allow the tray to
be pulled completely out of the
cabinet box for easy access to
items in the back.
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Spacer strip
Glide-out rail
Spacers must be mounted to the wall cabinets before you can install drawer slides for your slide-out shelves. They are
necessary for the drawers to clear the cabinet face frame and the door. For a ¾" spacer, a 1 × 3 or 1 × 4 works well. Paint or finish
it to match the cabinet interior.
Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L SL I DE - OU T C A BI N E T T R AYS
Lay out the tray positions, starting with
1 the bottom tray. Check the drawer slides to
see how much clearance you need for the
bottom tray. Draw lines on the side panels of
the cabinet to represent the bottom edges
of the slide supports. Make sure the lines are
level and are perpendicular to the cabinet
front. Cut the slide supports to length from
1 × 2 hardwood stock (or any hardwood
ripped to 11⁄2" wide).
Mount the supports to the side panels
2 of the cabinet with glue and screws driven
through countersunk pilot holes. Note:
Depending on the overhang of the cabinet
face frames, you may need thicker support
stock to provide sufficient clearance for the
trays and slide rails.
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Install the drawer slides flush with the
3 bottom edges of the slide supports using the
provided screws. Assemble the two halves
of each slide, and then measure between
the drawer side pieces (rails) to find the
exact width of each tray. Plan the depth of
the trays based on the cabinet depth.Proof 1
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Cut the bottom piece for each tray from
4 ¾" plywood 1½" smaller than the planned
width and depth of the finished tray. Rip four
¾"-wide pieces for the sides, front, and back
of each tray. Cut the side pieces to length,
equal to the depth dimension of the bottom
piece. Cut the front and back pieces 1½"
longer than the width of the bottom.
Build the trays with glue and 6d finish
5 nails or pneumatic brads. Fasten the sides
flush with the bottom face and front and
back edges of the bottom piece, and then
add the front and back pieces. Sand any
rough surfaces, and finish the trays with
two or three coats of polyurethane or other
durable varnish. If desired, you can stain
the trays prior to finishing so they match
your cabinets.
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Partially mount the drawer slide
6 rails to one of the trays, following the
manufacturer’s directions. Test-fit the tray
in the cabinet and make any necessary
adjustments before completely fastening the
rails. Mount the slide rails on the remaining
trays and install the trays to finish the job.
Proof 1
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COU N T E R TOP SE L EC T ION
M ore than simply a worksurface, a kitchen
countertop can dazzle with the look-at-me
drama of mottled granite or bring together a country
through ceramic and stone tile, to concrete and wood,
to high-end granite and marble.
Countertop options for your kitchen depend
theme with honed soapstone and butcher block. on how much you are willing to spend, whether
But durability and maintenance (and cost of course) you will be doing it yourself or contracting it out,
are generally the primary concerns when it comes and what look you want to achieve. When choosing
to countertops. countertops, remember that you do not need to have
Some materials, like granite, can withstand a uniform countertop. Many people choose to use
the heat of pots and pans, so they are better suited more expensive countertop materials as accents or for
for heavy-duty cooks. Others, including laminate, islands rather than for the entire kitchen. And last, but
are affordable options that come in a wide variety not least, if you are inclined toward green remodeling
of modern colors. There are many choices in practices, you may find some surprises when you
countertops, from the less-expensive laminate, compare countertop materials (see page 385).
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Fabricated countertop material like quartz and solid surface is virtually impenetrable to water. If it becomes scratched, minorProof 1
damage can easily be buffed out.
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■ L A M I NAT E & POST- FOR M
Laminate countertops are formed from layers of resin-
saturated paper and plastic that are bonded under
pressure, then given a protective coating. The laminate
is bonded to a substrate to create the countertop.
Also available is through-color laminate, in which the
surface color runs all the way through. This product
doesn’t have the dark edge of standard laminate and
does not show surface damage as easily, but it is two to
three times more expensive.
The cheapest laminate countertop is ready-
made post-form. A post-form countertop comprises
a backsplash, counter, and bullnose front apron
formed into one seamless piece. Home centers carry
post-form countertop options in various lengths and
in a few stock colors. You can also have a custom Plastic laminate is bonded to a particleboard subbase with
post-form countertop made, which will be slightly contact cement.
more expensive.
One limitation of laminate countertops is that
sinks must be drop-in, not undermounted. Though
the laminate itself is waterproof, the particleboard
or plywood it is attached to will swell if it gets wet.
Laminate is also not as heat-proof or scratch-proof as
other countertop materials.
■ TILE
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Whether they are ceramic or natural stone, tile
countertops are popular, midpriced options. If you
like the look of granite but don’t want to pay the price, Post-form countertops have a laminate surface that is
granite tile can create a similar look for substantially applied at the factory.
less, especially if you do the installation yourself.
When selecting tiles for countertops, make sure they
are floor tiles—wall tiles will not stand up to the wear
and tear of countertop use.
Two major drawbacks of ceramic or stone tile
are hardness and grout lines. Glassware and pottery
will break and chip readily when knocked or dropped
against this surface. Grout lines make the surface
uneven and difficult to keep clean, so choose
larger tiles to minimize grout lines. Using tiles for a
backsplash is an excellent way to get the look of tile
near the countertop.
Tiles are set into a bed of thinset mortar troweled onto a
Proof 1
cementboard or tilebacker subbase.
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■ SOL I D SU R FAC E
Solid-surface countertops, commonly described by
the common brand name Corian™, are popular but
more expensive options. With solid color throughout,
the pieces are joined with a bonding compound that
leaves no visible seam line. Solid-surface countertops
can be shaped and inlaid, it comes in many colors and
patterns, it is durable, and light damage like scratches
can be repaired easily. Solid-surface should not be
used as a cutting board, however, and hot pans cannot
be placed directly on the surface. Most spills are easily
cleaned with soap and water.
Though solid-surface materials are easily worked
with standard hand tools, do-it-yourselfers may have
difficulty purchasing the materials and bonding
agents. If a non-licensed installer installs one of those
countertops, the manufacturer will not honor any
product warranties.
Solid-surface countertops can be installed on islands or as
accents if you don’t have the budget to put them everywhere
in your kitchen.
■ QUA R T Z SU R FAC E S
Quartz countertops resemble solid-surface
countertops in many ways, but they have a higher
percentage of mineral material versus plastic resins
KITCHEN PROJECTS
and binders. Quartz surfaces are manufactured from
93 percent quartz and 7 percent pigments, resins, and
binders. Because all quartz surfaces are manufactured
using essentially the same equipment and formulas,
any difference in appearance among products is due to
the type of quartz used.
The quartz surface is unscratchable, non-porous,
non-staining, does not need to be sealed, and will not
scorch or mar from high heat. Although it is as hard as
granite, quartz has more inherent flexibility, so surface
cracking does not occur. The surface is cool to the
touch, like granite and marble.
Quartz countertops are almost solid granulated and
reconstituted quartz (the most common mineral on earth).Proof 1
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■ STA I N L E S S ST E E L
Although it is slightly more expensive than solid
surface or quartz on a per-square-foot basis, stainless
steel is a popular countertop material in home
kitchens as well as in commercial kitchens. That’s
because it is an impervious material that doesn’t
stain, can handle hot pots, and can be fabricated
into seamless countertops and sinks. Stainless steel
countertops for residential use are usually bonded
to plywood or particleboard to quiet the noise and
prevent denting. Sinks can either be fabricated as
part of the countertop, or, more likely, welded in.
Either way, it is a seamless application. The biggest
downside is that stainless steel shows fingerprints and
watermarks, especially on a polished surface, so it’s
best to get a matte or satin surface. Stainless steel countertops normally are bonded to a
plywood subbase in residential applications.
■ BU TC H E R BLOC K & WOOD
Advancing technology in wood finishes and sealants
have made wood countertops a viable option for
kitchen applications. Historically, the amount of water
KITCHEN PROJECTS
splashed around a sink would ruin a wood surface.
The best of the wood options is butcher block, which
can be ordered and installed as a relatively easy DIY
project. Butcher block is made up of small pieces
of wood glued together into a slab. It’s generally
categorized as either end grain, which is composed
of vertical pieces of wood, or edge grain, made of
long strips of wood. The thickness of stock slabs can
vary, from 1½ inches for the standard countertop to
4 inches for an island or small-section installation.
Many people assume that butcher block is convenient
because you no longer need cutting boards, but it’s
Butcher block material is sold in standard countertop width
a poor idea to use them as direct cutting surfaces. and thickness and in varying lengths.
Every nick and cut will collect dirt and will darken
differently when the surface is reoiled. Wood, no
matter how well it is sealed, expands and contracts in
relation to humidity levels, so installation of a wood
countertop requires special considerations (see pages
178 to 183).
Proof 1
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■ CONC R E T E COU N T E R TOP S
Concrete has become a very popular, exceptionally cast in and ornamental objects can be embedded in
dramatic countertop choice. It is a custom option, the concrete for added functionality or just to make
but is not as expensive as granite. It can be cast in it more unique. Concrete needs to be resealed
place under certain conditions, but as a moderate regularly, or it will permanently stain.
to difficult DIY project, it should be created off- Acidic foods will etch the surface. Like ceramic
site where the dust and chemicals can be easily tile and stone surfaces, it has no give, so expect
managed. Concrete can be dyed or stained in a greater number of broken glasses and plates.
many different colors and will accept a virtually Custom concrete sinks as part of the counter are
unlimited number of finishes. Drainboards can be also possible.
Concrete countertops are cast in forms in a well-ventilated work area and then transported to the cabinets after they are
machined and polished.
■ STON E
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Soapstone, slate, marble, and granite are all types comes in an ever-increasing array of colors—ranging
of natural stone that are used for countertops. from whites and blacks to pinks, reds, yellows, and
Although they are all quarried stone and are all greens—as more countries begin exporting their local
fairly expensive, they have numerous differences. granites. The main drawback is that it must be sealed
Soapstone has been used for kitchen countertops and to prevent staining.
sinks for hundreds of years. Though the stone itself is
easily workable with nonspecialized tools, its surface
is nonabsorbent and unaffected by either acids
or alkalis. The surface will age to a glossy patina,
or it can be oiled to achieve this finish. Slate for
countertops is durable, hard, and dense. Scratches
can be rubbed out, its surface is nonabsorbing and
it does not require sealing. Slate comes in shades
of green, purple, gray, and black, with a rare red
available at a higher cost.
The beauty of marble comes from its veining
patterns—unfortunately these are mini fault lines
along which the stone will easily break, especially
if improperly installed. Some marble is as hard asProof 1
granite, but most is fairly soft and scratches easily. A big slab of beautiful, natural stone makes an incomparable
Granite is the hardest of the stone countertops. It countertop that is normally at the top of the cost range.
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Comparing Countertop Materials ▸
Material Description Making it Greener
Plastic Laminate Paper and resin laminate glued to particle board (or MDF) substrate. Use formaldehyde-free, recycled-wood substrate and
low-VOC adhesive; laminate should be made with
Resistant to stains, scratches, and moisture; easy to clean; inexpensive.
recycled paper and water-based resins, if possible.
Surface susceptible to chipping and burning; damage cannot be repaired.
Paper-resin Solid slab of paper and resin. Choose product with high recycled content; purchase
from local or regional supplier/fabricator to
Highly workable for custom applications; solid color and same durability
minimize shipping.
throughout slab; resistant to stains and heat.
May need periodic cleaning and finishing treatments.
Tile Ceramic, porcelain, or glass tiles glued to cementboard and wood substrate. Use tiles with recycled content or locally produced tiles.
Durable and highly heat-resistant; tiles are highly washable; versatile material Use marine plywood and/or seal plywood to reduce
for custom applications. formaldehyde offgassing; set tiles with low-VOC adhesive.
Grout between tiles is prone to staining and must be sealed periodically. Seal grout and tiles (if necessary) with
formaldehyde-free, low-VOC sealer.
Glass Composite Solid slab of glass and resin binder. Choose product with high recycled content.
Purchase from local or regional fabricator to
Durable; unique appearance; heat- and scratch-resistant.
minimize shipping.
May require periodic cleaning and/or sealing treatments.
Butcher Block Solid-wood strips laminated to form a slab. Choose only FSC-certified wood.
Natural, renewable material; good surface for cutting; can be refinished. Treat surface with food-safe finishes and sealers.
Must be oiled and sealed periodically to maintain appearance.
Stainless Steel Alloy of steel, nickel, and chromium; often glued to wood substrate. Recycle the metal if you replace the countertops.
Highly durable, rustproof, and easy to clean. Use formaldehyde-free substrate.
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Can be scratched and dented.
Natural Stone Solid quarried stone slabs or tiles glued to substrate. Look for salvaged slabs or buy stone from local quarry.
Durable; heatproof and waterproof.
Can chip and crack; some varieties will stain; dark colors
make cleaning problematic.
Engineered Stone Composite of quartz or other stone, pigments, and polyester resin. Purchase from a manufacturer in your region and use a
local fabricator.
Same color and durability throughout slab; doesn’t require sealing.
Solid-Surface Composite of petrochemical-based resins (polyester, acrylic) Green options are limited; perhaps minimize quantity
and bauxite of countertop.
Color and durability consistent throughout material; highly workable
and customizable.
Concrete Available in various forms, including poured-in-place concrete, cast concrete, Look for products with high recycled content, such as
and fiber cement composite materials. fly ash (to replace high-embodied energy and
aggregates cement).
Versatile material is highly customizable; durable and heat-resistant. Color material with natural, nontoxic pigments added
to concrete mix instead of stains applied to surface.
Can be very heavy; prone to cracking, chipping, and staining; must be
sealed regularly.
Proof 1
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T I L E BAC K SPL A SH
T here are few spaces in your home with as much
potential for creativity and visual impact as the
space between your kitchen countertop and your
Tip ▸
cupboards. A well-designed backsplash can transform
the ordinary into the extraordinary. Tiles for the back-
splash can be attached directly to wallboard or plaster
and do not require backerboard. When purchasing
the tile, order 10 percent extra to cover breakage and
cutting. Remove the switch and receptacle coverplates
and install the box extenders to make up for the extra
thickness of the tile. Protect the countertop from
scratches by covering it with a drop cloth.
Tools & Materials ▸
Level Story stick
Tape measure Straight 1 × 2
Pencil Wall tile
Tile cutter Tile spacers (if needed)
Rod saw Mastic adhesive
Notched trowel Masking tape
Rubber grout float Grout
Beating block Caulk
Rubber mallet Drop cloth Break tiles into fragments and make a mosaic
Sponge Sanded grout backsplash. Always use a sanded grout for joints
Bucket Eye and ear protection wider than 1⁄8”.
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Contemporary glass
mosaic sheets create
a counter-to-cabinet
backsplash for a waterproof,
splash-proof wall with very
high visual impact.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A T I L E BAC K SPL A SH
1 2
Make a story stick by marking a board at least half as long Starting at the midpoint of the installation area, use the
as the backsplash area to match the tile spacing. story stick to make layout marks along the wall. If an end piece
is too small (less than half a tile), adjust the midpoint to give
you larger, more attractive end pieces. Use a level to mark this
point with a vertical reference line.
3
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While it may appear straight, your countertop may not be Variation: Diagonal Layout. Mark vertical and horizontal
level and therefore is not a reliable reference line. Run a level reference lines, making sure the angle is 90°. To establish
along the counter to find the lowest point on the countertop. diagonal layout lines, measure out equal distances from the
Mark a point two tiles up from the low point and extend a level crosspoint, and then connect the points with a line. Additional
line across the entire work area. layout lines can be extended from these as needed.
Proof 1
(continued)
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4 5
Apply mastic adhesive evenly to the area beneath the Press tiles into the adhesive with a slight twisting motion. If
horizontal reference line using a notched trowel. Comb the the tiles are not self-spacing, use plastic spacers to maintain
adhesive horizontally with the notched edge. even grout lines. If the tiles do not hang in place, use masking
tape to hold them in place until the adhesive sets.
6 7
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Install a whole row along the reference line, checking Install an edge border if it is needed in your layout. Mosaic
occasionally to make sure the tiles are level. Continue installing sheets normally do not have bullnose tiles on the edges, so if
tiles below the first row, trimming tiles that butt against the you don’t wish to see the cut edges of the outer tiles, install a
countertop as needed. vertical column of edge tiles at the end of the backsplash area.Proof 1
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8 9
When the tiles are in place, make sure they are flat Mix the grout and apply it with a rubber grout float. Spread it
and firmly embedded by laying a beating block against the over the tiles, keeping the float at a low 30° angle, pressing the
tile and rapping it lightly with a mallet. Remove the spacers. grout deep into the joints. Note: For grout joints 1⁄8" and smaller,
Allow the mastic to dry for at least 24 hours, or as directed by be sure to use a non-sanded grout.
the manufacturer.
10 11
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Wipe off excess grout, holding the float at a right angle to Clean excess grout with a damp sponge. When the grout
the tile, working diagonally so as not to remove grout from has dried to a haze, buff the tile clean with a soft cloth. Apply a
the joints. Clean any remaining grout from the tiles with a bead of caulk between the countertop and the tiles.
damp sponge, working in a circular motion. Rinse the sponge
thoroughly and often.
Proof 1
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STOC K- CA BI N E T I SL A N D
K itchen islands can be created using a whole
range of methods, from repurposing an old
table to fine, custom woodworking. But perhaps
Tools & Materials ▸
Marker
the easiest (and most fail-safe) way to add the
Drill/driver
conveniences and conviviality of a kitchen island is
2 × 4 cleats
to make one from stock base cabinets. The cabinets
Pneumatic nailer and 2" finish nails or
and countertops don’t have to match your kitchen
hammer and 6d finish nails
cabinetry, but that is certainly an option you should
2 base cabinets (approx. 36" wide × 24" deep)
consider. When designing and positioning your new
Countertop
island, be sure to maintain a minimum distance of
Drywall screws
3 feet between the island and other cabinets (4 feet
Eye and ear protection
or more is better).
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Two base cabinets arranged back-to-back make a sturdy kitchen island base that’s easy to install. When made with the same
style cabinets and countertops as the rest of the kitchen, the island is a perfect match.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO C R E AT E A STOC K- C A BI N E T I SL A N D
1 2
Set two base cabinets back-to-back in position on the Cut 2 × 4 cleats to fit inside the inner outline to provide
floor and outline the cabinet corners onto the flooring. Remove nailing surfaces for the cabinets. Attach the cleats to the floor
the cabinets and draw a new outline inside of the one you with screws or nails. Tip: Create an L-shaped cleat for each
just created to allow for the thickness of the cabinet sides inside corner.
(usually ¾").
3 4
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Join the two base cabinets together by driving 11⁄4" drywall Attach the cabinets to the floor cleats using 6d finish nails.
screws through the nailing strips on the backs of the cabinets Drill pilot holes for nails, and recess the nail heads with a nail
from each direction. Make sure the cabinet sides are flush and set. Make a countertop (see pages 380 to 385) and install it on
aligned. Lower the base cabinets over the cleats. Check the top of the cabinets.
cabinets for level, and shim underneath the edges of the base
if necessary.
Proof 1
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T WO - L E V E L T I L E I SL A N D
I slands are one of the most requested kitchen
features. People love them for many reasons,
including their value as bi-level counter space. In most
Tools & Materials ▸
cases, the lower level is used as work space and the Tape measure Paint
upper as casual dining space. The upper level provides Circular saw Tile spacers
a little camouflage for the work space, something Drill ¾" exterior-grade (CDX)
that’s especially welcome in open-plan kitchens where Utility knife plywood
meal preparation areas can be seen from other areas. Straightedge 4-mil polyethylene
When planning casual dining space, remember that Stapler sheeting
designers suggest at least 24 inches per person. For the Drywall knife Packing tape
work space, remember that standard design guidelines Framing square ½" cementboard
recommend at least 36 inches of uninterrupted work Notched trowel 3" deck screws
space to the side of a sink or cooktop. Tile cutter Fiberglass mesh tape
On worksurfaces, mosaic and other small tile is Carpeted 2 × 4 mallet Thinset mortar
rarely the best choice. Larger tile requires fewer grout Grout float Grout with latex additive
lines, always a good idea when it comes to cleaning Sponge Silicone caulk
and maintenance. But there is no rule that all three Foam brush Grout sealer
elements of a bi-level island have to use the same Caulk gun L-brackets
material. In fact, projects like this offer wonderful 1 × 2 hardwood 6d finish nails
opportunities to mix materials or colors or textures. 2 × 4 lumber Drywall screws
Choose floor tile or tile made especially for counters Ceramic tile Glue
and then branch out when it comes to the backsplash. Adhesive Eye and ear protection
Wall tile and mosaics work beautifully.
KITCHEN PROJECTS
This island adds storage, countertop space, and seating to a kitchen, revealing the truly astonishing transformation this simple
yet functional piece can achieve.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO BU I L D A T I L E D BI - L E V E L I SL A N D
1 2
Build a 2 × 4 base for the island cabinet by cutting the Cut the bottom panels the same dimensions as the base
2 × 4s to length and joining them in a square frame that lays frame from ¾" birch plywood. Attach it to the frame with finish
flat (wide sides down) on the floor. Use metal L-brackets to nails. Then, cut the side panels to size and shape and fasten
reinforce the joints. If you don’t wish to move the island, fasten them to the edges with 6d finish nails and adhesive. Slip ¾"
the frame to the floor in position with construction adhesive shims (scrap plywood works well) beneath the side panels
and/or deck screws. before fastening them.
3 4
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Cut the 2 × 4 cross supports to length and install them Prime and paint the cabinet interior and exterior.
between the side panels at every corner, including the
corners created by the L-shape cutout. Use 3" deck screws
driven through the side panels and into the ends of the
cross supports.
Proof 1
(continued)
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5 6
Build a face frame from 1 × 2 hardwood to fit the cabinet Cut strips of ¾" exterior plywood to make the subbases
front. Attach it to the cabinet with 6d finish nails and hang the for the countertops and a backer for the backsplash. The lower
cabinet doors (we installed three 13"-wide overlay doors). counter subbase should overhang by 2" on the front and sides.
The upper should overhang 2" on the sides and be centered on
the cabinet front to back. Attach the backer and subbases with
drywall screws driven down into the 2 × 4 cross supports.
7 8
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Cut 2" wide strips of plywood for buildup strips and attach Attach the tile backerboard to the counter subbases,
to the undersides of the subbases with glue and screws. the backsplash, and tape seams; cover screw heads with
compound (see page 55).Proof 1
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9 10
Cut mosaic sheets to fit the backsplash area and attach Cut the edge tiles and fasten them around the perimeter of
them with thinset adhesive (see Tile Backsplash, pages the subbase with thinset adhesive. The tiles should be flush
386 to 389). or slightly below the bottoms of the buildup strips and project
past the top surfaces so they will be level with the field tiles. If
you are not using edge tiles with a bullnose top, install the tiles
so they are level with the subbase surface and overhang them
with the field tiles.
11 12
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Install the field tiles for the countertops last (see How to Choose a suitable grout color and apply it to the tile with
Build a Tile Countertop, pages 192 to 195). a grout float. Buff off excess once it has dried. Seal the grout
with grout sealer.
Proof 1
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I SL A N D V E N T HOOD
A n island vent hood installation is a bit complicated
because the unit must be supported from above,
and because of the extra ductwork. Before installation,
a soffit around the ductwork. All vent hoods have
a maximum permissible length for duct runs. The
installation instructions will contain a chart giving
read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully for equivalent lengths for each type of duct fitting. For
recommended heights for cooktop and hood installation. example, a 90-degree elbow is the equivalent of
Most island vents weigh over 100 pounds, so you 15 feet of round straight duct. A round roof cap is the
will need assistance during parts of the installation. equivalent of 26 feet of round straight duct.
Install the vent hood prior to installing the cooktop,
if possible, to prevent damage to the cooktop. If not
possible, protect the cooktop and countertop with a Tools & Materials ▸
heavy moving pad. This installation is vented directly
through the roof through attic space above the Tape measure Roof vent
kitchen. You can also install the ductwork between Plumb bob 2 × 4 lumber
ceiling joists and out to a side wall, or you can build Ladder 3" #10 wood screws
Wallboard saw Sheet-metal screws
Drill Self-sealing roofing nails
Reciprocating saw NM cable
Shopping Tips ▸ Screwdriver Wire connectors
Wire stripper Tape
Professional-style cooktops require heavy-duty
6" round duct Metallic duct tape
vent hoods. Check your cooktop manual for
Hanger wire Duct straps
venting requirements.
Roofing cement Eye and ear protection
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Flooring
2×
2×
Ceiling
Variation: If you must install ductwork in the ceiling joists, turn one 2 × 4 brace flat to allow the duct to fit between the 2 × 4 and the
flooring above.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A N I SL A N D V E N T HOOD
1 2
Check manufacturer’s directions for the distance from Cut two lengths of 2 × 4 to fit between the joists. Check the
the front of the vent to the duct centerline and the necessary manufacturer’s instructions for the correct distance between
vent hood alignment over the cooktop. Use a plumb bob to the braces. Place the braces flush against the ceiling top. Drill
find the position of the duct centerline over the cooktop. Mark pilot holes and install with a minimum of two 3" #10 wood
the location of the duct centerline on the ceiling by poking a screws driven through the joist and into the brace. The cross
12" length of hanger wire through the ceiling. In the attic, pull bracing and the ceiling surface must be level for proper
back the insulation surrounding the wire and the adjoining installation of the vent hood. Insert the 6" round duct through
joists. Center a section of 6" duct over the wire hole and trace the ceiling so it extends down 3 or 4". This must be a female or
around it to mark the cutout for the duct. Using a wallboard external connection. Attach lengths of duct until you reach the
saw or a rotary saw, cut out the hole. roof deck.
3 4
Vent KITCHEN PROJECTS
cover
flange
Draw an outline of the duct on the roof deck. Drill a pilot Remove a section of shingles from around the cutout, leaving
hole, then saw through the sheathing and roofing material with the roofing paper intact. Remove enough shingles to create an
a reciprocating saw to make the cutout for the vent tailpiece. exposed area that is at least the size of the vent cover flange.
Proof 1
(continued)
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5 6 7
If the hole for the vent does Apply roofing cement to the Complete installation of the
not abut a rafter, attach a 2 × 4 brace bottom of the vent cover flange, ductwork by securing each joint with
between the roof rafters. Attach a then slide the vent cover over the self-tapping sheet-metal screws.
hose clamp to the brace or rafter tailpiece. Nail the vent cover flange Wrap each joint with metallic duct
about 1" below the roof sheathing into place with self-sealing roofing tape. Support the duct as it passes
(top). Insert the vent tailpiece into nails, then patch in shingles around through the ceiling with duct straps.
the cutout and through the hose the cover.
clamp, then tighten the clamp
screw (bottom).
8 9
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Secure the upper support frame to the ceiling In the attic, run a branch circuit from a nearby junction
joists or the cross bracing with the screws provided. The box. (This may be a job for an electrician.) Route the cable
screws must be driven into the center of the joists or cross through the ceiling hole. Pull the cable to reach the junction
braces. Check to make sure the frame is level in all directions. box, approximately 6" below the frame support. Tape the cable
Insert the lower support frame and secure loosely. Adjust to the frame support.
the lower support frame to the desired height above the
countertop and tighten the screws. Make sure the supportProof 1
frame is level and plumb.
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10 11
Measure from the bottom of the duct flange in the ceiling Slide the top decorative duct cover over the support frame
to the bottom of the support frame. Add 1" for insertion into to the ceiling and attach it to the support frame using the
the ceiling duct and subtract 1¾" for the hood insertion. (This supplied decorative screws. Slide the bottom decorative duct
will vary; check the manufacturer’s dimensions.) Cut 6" round cover over the support frame and the top duct cover. Secure
duct to this length. Install the duct and attach with sheet-metal with the provided stop screw to hold it in place while the hood
screws and metallic duct tape. is installed.
12 13
KITCHEN PROJECTS
With a helper, lift the hood up to the support frame. Align the Strip 8" of cable. Thread the cable through a cable clamp
hood mounting studs with the support frame holes and guide and through a knockout into the junction box. Connect the
the hood duct connector into the house duct. Install the nuts white supply wire to the white vent wire with a wire connector.
and lock washers to the mounting studs and tighten. Check Connect the black supply wire to the black vent wire. Connect
that the hood is level in all directions. Make sure the duct is the green or bare supply wire to the green or yellow vent wire.
positioned over the hood connector. Seal the joint with metallic Push the wires into the junction box and replace the cover
duct tape, not screws. without pinching the wires. Remove the stop screw and slide
Proof 1
down the decorative cover.
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R A NG E S, OV E NS & COOK TOP S
F or the most part, installing a new range is
simply a matter of positioning it, leveling it,
and making sure it is hooked up to a receptacle
and gas connection. If you are comfortable working
with gas and plumbing, hooking up a gas range or
cooktop is not difficult. But in many municipalities
only a licensed installer can make gas hook-ups.
Ask your local building department if you are
unsure (your appliance retailer is also a good source
for information).
When moving a range for painting or cleaning,
removing it for replacement, or installing a new range,
make sure you protect the flooring. Use an appliance
dolly to lift a new range from the side only—not the
front or the back. If the range will not fit through
doors, remove the oven door handle. An electric range
or cooktop must have its own dedicated 240-volt
Protect your flooring when moving a range, whether it is
an old one on the way out or a brand-new one being installed.
circuit. Gas ranges and cooktops also need a grounded
Typically, ranges have adjustable feet that can gouge floor 3-hole electrical outlet to power the electronic
coverings. A piece of cardboard, tagboard, or a carpet scrap ignition, clock, and timers.
can be slipped under the appliance.
■ I NSTA L L I NG E L E C T R IC R A NG E S
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Receptacles for electric ranges should look like this. They A dedicated circuit with a double pole 50-amp breaker
are 50-amp, combination 125/250 volt fittings with a three-slot supplies power to the high-voltage receptacle for your electric
configuration that will only work with electric range appliance range. Most codes require 6-gauge copper service entrance
cords. They provide 125-volt power to run lights, clocks, and round (SER) cable for the circuit. If your circuit does not meet
timers and 250-volt service to the heating elements. these standards, contact a qualified electrician to upgrade theProof 1
circuit. Note: Always shut off power at the main service panel
before removing a service panel cover.
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Tips for Installing Gas Ranges ▸
Flexible appliance connectors are required for Shut off gas at the nearest in-line shutoff or stopcock
hooking a gas inlet port up to a gas supply valve. Flexible valve, as well as the supply valve you will be hooking up
connectors are usually made of stainless steel, and some to. When closed, a stopcock valve is perpendicular to the
areas require that the steel be protected with a PVC gas pipe as seen here.
coating. These are sold in a variety of lengths. Buy the
shortest connector that will reach from the supply valve
to the inlet port.
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Use two wrenches to securely attach the appliance Attach the other end of the flexible appliance
connector tube to the gas supply valve. One wrench connector tube to the gas inlet port in your range
should be used to hold the tube securely and the other or cooktop. Also use yellow Teflon tape to lubricate
to tighten the male tube coupling onto the female supply the threads at this union. Turn on the gas supply and
valve. Be sure to wrap a layer of gas-rated (yellow) Teflon immediately test all connections with leak detector
tape around the supply valve threads before attaching the solution. If the connections pass, slide the appliance into
coupling. Do not overtighten the coupling. position, taking care not to cause stress on or kinks in the
Proof 1
connector tube.
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R E F R IG E R ATOR IC E M A K E R
T here’s nothing really tricky about installing a
refrigerator unless your new model has a built-in
icemaker. If your old refrigerator was equipped with
case, all you need to do is take the make and model
information to an appliance parts dealer, and they can
sell you an aftermarket icemaker. Plan to spend $100
an icemaker, you should already have a water supply to $200.
line running to the refrigerator area. If there is no
supply line, contact a plumber to install one for you
if you do not know how. Most icemakers either come
preinstalled or are purchased as an accessory when
you buy your new refrigerator. But if you have an
older refrigerator with no icemaker and you’d like it to
have one, all is not lost. Inspect the back of the unit,
behind the freezer compartment. If your refrigerator
has the required plumbing to support an icemaker, you
will see a port that is covered with backing. In that
Tools & Materials ▸
Screwdrivers Open-end or adjustable wrench
Nut drivers Icemaker kit
Needlenose pliers Saddle valve or T-fitting
Duct or (for supply tube)
masking tape Putty knife
Electric drill and Tape A built-in icemaker is easy to install as a retrofit appliance
assorted bits Eye and ear protection in most modern refrigerators. If you want to have an endless
Channel-type pliers supply of ice for home use, you may wonder how you ever got
along without one.
KITCHEN PROJECTS
How Icemakers Work ▸
An icemaker receives its supply of water for making cubes
through a ¼" copper supply line that runs from the icemaker
to a water pipe. The supply line runs through a valve in the
refrigerator and is controlled by a solenoid that monitors the
water supply and sends the water into the icemaker itself,
where it is turned into ice cubes. The cubes drop down into a
bin, and as the ice level rises, they also raise a bail wire that’s
connected to a shutoff. When the bin is full, the bail wire will
be high enough to trigger a mechanism that shuts off the
water supply.
Aftermarket automatic icemakers are simple to
install as long as your refrigerator is icemaker-ready. Buy the
correct model for your appliance and do careful installation
work—icemaker water supply lines are very common
sources for leaks.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A R E F R IG E R ATOR IC E M A K E R
1 2
Remove all the contents from the refrigerator and freezer On the back of the refrigerator, remove the backing or
compartments and store them in ice chests or in a neighbor’s unscrew the icemaker access panel that covers the
refrigerator. Unplug the unit and pull it out from the wall. Then icemaker port.
open the freezer door and remove the icemaker cover plate at
the back of the compartment.
3 Water port
4 5
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Wiring harness port
Locate and clear the ports. One Install the water tube assembly Hook up the harness. Icemaker kits
opening is for the water line. The (part of the icemaker kit) in its usually come with a wiring harness
other is for a wiring harness. Usually, access hole on the back of the that joins the icemaker motor to
these holes are filled with insulation refrigerator. This assembly features the power supply wires. Push this
plugs that keep the cold air inside a plastic elbow attached to the harness through the access hole and
the freezer from leaking out into plastic tube that reaches into the into the freezer compartment. Seal
the room. Remove these plugs with freezer compartment. the hole with the plastic grommet
Proof 1
needlenose pliers. supplied with the harness.
(continued)
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6 7
Solenoid
Tube to icemaker
Join the end of the icemaker wiring harness to the power Attach the water tube at the top of the refrigerator to the
connector that was preinstalled on the back of the refrigerator. solenoid that is mounted at the bottom with a plastic water
This connection should be flat against the back. If it isn’t, tape line. Run the tube down the back of the refrigerator and attach
it down with duct tape or masking tape. it to the solenoid valve with a compression fitting. This job is
easier to do before you attach the solenoid assembly to the
refrigerator cabinet.
8 9
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Identify the two snap connectors on the wiring Attach the solenoid to a mounting bracket that should be
harness. One goes to the preinstalled wires on the installed on the cabinet wall at the bottom of the refrigerator.
refrigerator and the other is attached to the solenoid. Mounting holes may be predrilled in the cabinet for this
Just push this second connector onto the brass tabs, purpose. But if not, drill holes to match the bracket and the
usually at the top of the solenoid. size of the screws. Then attach the bracket and make sure to
attach the solenoid ground wire to one of these screws.Proof 1
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10 11
Install the water-inlet copper tube once the solenoid Join the water-inlet tube to the water supply tubing
is mounted. Attach it by tightening the nut on one end with (from the house plumbing system) with a brass compression
channel-type pliers. The other end of the tube is held to the coupling. Tighten the compression nuts with an open-end or
refrigerator cabinet with a simple clamp. Make sure the end adjustable wrench.
of this tubing is pointing straight up.
12 13 14
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Make sure the water tube and Connect the wire harness to Install the icemaker. Remove
the wiring harness (from the back the plug on the icemaker unit. Also any small rubber caps that may
of the refrigerator) are free inside connect the water supply tube to the be installed in the mounting screw
the freezer compartment. If they are back of the icemaker with a spring holes with a narrow putty knife. Lift
caught on the cabinet, loosen them clip or hose clamp. the unit and screw it to the freezer
until they are easily accessible. wall. The mounting bracket holes are
usually slotted to permit leveling the
unit. Plug in the refrigerator and test
the icemaker.
Proof 1
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DI SH WA SH E R
A dishwasher that’s past its prime may be inefficient
in more ways than one. If it’s an old model, it
probably wasn’t designed to be very efficient to begin
In terms of sizing and utility hookups,
dishwashers are generally quite standard. If your
old machine is a built-in and your countertops
with. But more significantly, if it no longer cleans and cabinets are standard sizes, most full-sized
effectively, you’re probably spending a lot of time dishwashers will fit right in. Of course, you should
and hot water prerinsing the dishes. This alone can always measure the dimensions of the old unit
consume more energy and water than a complete before shopping for a new one to avoid an unpleasant
wash cycle on a newer machine. So even if your old surprise at installation time. Also be sure to review
dishwasher still runs, replacing it with an efficient the manufacturer’s instructions before starting
new model can be a good green upgrade. any work.
Replacing an old, inefficient
dishwasher is a straightforward project
that usually takes just a few hours.
The energy savings begin with the first
load of dishes and continue with every
load thereafter.
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Tools & Materials ▸
Screwdrivers Drill Hose clamps Bowl
Adjustable wrench 4" of ½" copper tubing Wire connectors Eye and ear protection
2' level Cable connector Carpet scrap
5
⁄8" automotive heater hose Teflon tapeProof 1
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Efficient Loading ▸
To get the best circulation of water for effective
wash action, follow these tips when loading dishes:
• Make sure dishes are loaded so water can
reach all of the soiled surfaces.
• Be sure that larger items are not blocking
smaller items from the wash action.
• Place all items in both racks so that they
are separated and face the center of the
dishwasher. This will help to ensure that water
reaches all soiled surfaces.
• Place glasses with the open end facing
downward to allow proper washing action.
• Do not place glasses over the tines, but
between them. This will allow the glasses to
lean toward the spray arm and will improve
washing. It also promotes drying by reducing
the amount of water remaining on the top of
the glass after the wash cycle is complete. • Load flatware, except knives, with some handles up and
• Do not allow flatware to “nest.” This prevents some down to prevent nesting. For safety, knives should
proper water distribution between the surfaces. always be loaded handles up.
■ HOW TO R E PL AC E A DI SH WA SH E R
1 2
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Shut off the electrical power to the dishwasher circuit at Disconnect the old plumbing connections. First unscrew
the service panel. Also, turn off the water supply at the shutoff the front access panel. Once the access panel is removed,
valve, usually located directly under the floor. disconnect the water supply line from the L-fitting on the
bottom of the unit. This is usually a brass compression fitting,
so just turning the compression nut counterclockwise with an
adjustable wrench should do the trick. Use a bowl to catch any
water that might leak out when the nut is removed.
Proof 1
(continued)
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3 4
Disconnect the old wiring connections. The dishwasher Disconnect the discharge hose, which is usually connected
has an integral electrical box at the front of the unit where the to the dishwasher port on the side of the garbage disposer. To
power cable is attached to the dishwasher’s fixture wires. Take remove it, loosen the screw on the hose clamp and pull it off.
off the box cover and remove the wire connectors that join the You may need to push this hose back through a hole in the
wires together. cabinet wall and into the dishwasher compartment so it won’t
get caught when you pull the dishwasher out.
5 6
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Detach the unit from the surrounding cabinets. Remove Prepare the new dishwasher. Tip it on its back and attach
the screws that hold the brackets to the underside of the the new L-fitting into the threaded port on the solenoid. Apply
countertop. Then put a piece of cardboard or old carpet under some Teflon tape or pipe sealant to the fitting threads beforeProof 1
the front legs to protect the floor from getting scratched, and tightening it in place to prevent possible leaks.
pull the dishwasher out.
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Lengthening a Discharge Hose ▸
1 2
If the discharge hose has to be modified to fit onto the Clamp the rubber disposer adapter to the end
disposer port, first insert a 4"-long piece of ½" copper of the copper tubing nipple. Then tighten the hose
tubing into the hose and hold it in place with a hose clamp securely.
clamp. This provides a nipple for the rubber adapter that
fits onto the disposer.
7 8
Attach a length of new automotive heater hose, usually Prepare for the wiring connections. Like the old
5
⁄8" dia., to the end of the dishwasher’s discharge hose nipple dishwasher, the new one will have an integral electrical box
with a hose clamp. The new hose you are adding should be for making the wiring connections. To gain access to the box,
KITCHEN PROJECTS
long enough to reach from the discharge nipple to the port on remove the box cover. Then install a cable connector on the
the side of the kitchen sink garbage disposer. back of the box and bring the power cable from the service
panel through this connector. Power should be shut off at the
main service panel at all times.
9 10
Install a leveling leg at each of the four corners while the Once the dishwasher is level, attach the brackets to
new dishwasher is still on its back. Just turn the legs into the the underside of the countertop to keep the appliance from
threaded holes designed for them. Leave about ½" of each leg moving. Then pull the discharge hose into the sink cabinet and
projecting from the bottom of the unit. These will have to be install it so there’s a loop that is attached with a bracket to the
adjusted later to level the appliance. Tip the appliance up onto underside of the countertop. This loop prevents waste water
Proof 1
the feet and slide it into the opening. Check for level in both from flowing from the disposer back into the dishwasher.
directions and adjust the feet as required. (continued)
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11 12
Discharge tube
from dishwasher
Supply
Fitting tube
Compression nut
Drain
Push the adapter over the disposer’s discharge nipple Adjust the L-fitting on the dishwasher’s water inlet valve
and tighten it in place with a hose clamp. If you don’t have until it points directly toward the water supply tubing. Lubricate
a disposer, this discharge hose can be clamped directly to the threads slightly with a drop of dishwashing liquid and
a modified sink tailpiece that’s installed below a standard tighten the tubing’s compression nut onto the fitting. Use an
sink strainer. adjustable wrench and turn the nut clockwise.
13 14
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Complete the electrical connections by tightening the Install the access panel, usually by hooking it on a couple
connector’s clamp on the cable and then joining the power of prongs just below the dishwasher’s door. Install the
wires to the fixture wires with wire connectors. Attach the screws (if any) that hold it in place, and turn on the water and
ground wire (or wires) to the grounding screw on the box, and power supplies. Replace the toe-kick panel at the bottom of
replace the cover. the dishwasher.Proof 1
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R A NG E HOOD/ V E N T FA N
Range hoods are vent fans that are mounted directly over a slide-in range or a cooktop. Some are meant to be seen while others
are designed to be hidden in a cabinet or soffit.
KITCHEN PROJECTS
E ffective ventilation is important for ridding your
kitchen of cooking odors, excess moisture (think:
mold), smoke, and exhaust fumes from gas burners.
in reversing the natural flow of air and vapor. Also,
many downdraft systems tend to draw heat away from
burners (especially gas burners), so your pans don’t
If you don’t already have a good vent system in place, heat as evenly when the fan is on.
you should consider installing one to improve your Sizing is important with hood systems. The hood
indoor air quality. Recirculating vent fans—those should be at least as wide as, but preferably up to
without a duct running outside—also should be 6 inches wider than, the cooktop and at least 20 inches
replaced, since all they really do is pretend to filter the deep. The power, or capacity, of the fan is another
air before blowing it right back into the kitchen. critical factor. Expert recommendations vary. Some
The two main types of mechanical ventilation say a standard hood fan should move 40 cubic feet
are overhead hoods and downdraft (or cooktop) per minute for every 12 inches of cooktop width; for
fans. Overhead systems include the basic under- example, a 30-inch-wide cooktop gets a 100 cfm fan,
cabinet types and the higher-end suspended styles which is the minimum required under many building
with exposed ducting extending from the ceiling. codes. The National Kitchen & Bath Association
Overheads are more effective and require less suction recommends 150 cfm as a minimum for hood fans.
than downdraft vents, primarily because they work The manufacturer of your range or cooktop may
with nature rather than against it: Hot air rises, have its own recommendations. Undersizing a fan
so all that steam, grease, and fragrant cooking air results in inadequate ventilation, but oversizing it
is easy to capture inside a hood for transfer to the could potentially lead to a dangerous backdrafting into
outdoors. Downdraft fans have to work much harder the home.
Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A R A NG E HOOD
1 2
Install the vent duct in the wall first, then cut a hole in Make sure the circuit power is turned off at the service
the back of the range hood cabinet and mount the cabinet panel, then join the power cable wires to the lead wires inside
over the duct. Cut a vent hole in the bottom of the cabinet to the range hood. Use wire connectors for this job.
match the opening on the top of the hood.
3 4
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Get someone to help lift the range hood into place and hold Run ductwork from the cabinet to the exhaust exit point. Use
it there while you attach it. Drive two screws through both two 45° adjustable elbows to join the duct in the wall to the
sides and into the adjacent cabinets. If the hood is slightly top of the range hood. Use sheet-metal screws and duct tape
small for the opening, slip a shim between the hood and the to hold all parts together and keep them from moving.
walls, trying to keep the gaps even.Proof 1
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5 6
Downdraft cooktop: With a built-in blower unit that vents Wall vent: If the duct comes out through the side wall of the
through the back or bottom of a base cabinet. A downdraft house, install a vertical duct cap. Make sure to seal around the
cooktop is a good choice for a kitchen island or peninsula. perimeter of the cap with exterior caulk.
7 8
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Ceiling vent: If the duct goes through an overhang soffit, Roof vent: For ducts that pass through the roof, cut an
you’ll need a transition fitting to connect the round duct to a access hole through the roofing and sheathing, then install a
short piece of rectangular duct. Once these parts are installed, weatherproof cap on top of the duct and under the roofing
add a protective grille to keep animals and insects from getting shingles. Make a waterproof seal by caulking the cap with
into the duct. plastic roof cement.
Proof 1
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DROP- I N SI N K
M ost drop-in, self-rimming kitchen sinks are
easy to install. Drop-in sinks for do-it-yourself
installation are made from cast iron coated with
Stainless steel and enameled-steel sinks weigh
less than cast-iron, and most require mounting
brackets on the underside of the countertop. Some
enamel, stainless steel, enameled steel, acrylic, acrylic and resin sinks rely on silicone caulk to hold
fiberglass, or resin composites. Because cast-iron sinks them in place. If you are replacing a sink, but not the
are heavy, their weight holds them in place, and they countertop, make sure the new sink is the same size or
require no mounting hardware. larger than the old sink. All old silicone caulk residue
must be removed with acetone or denatured alcohol,
or the new caulk will not stick.
Shopping Tips ▸
• When purchasing a sink, you also need to buy Tools & Materials ▸
strainer bodies and baskets, sink clips, and a
drain trap kit. Caulk gun Drill
• Look for basin dividers that are lower than the Spud wrench Mounting clips
sink rim—this reduces splashing. Screwdriver Jigsaw
• Drain holes in the back or to the side make for Sink Pen or pencil
more usable space under the sink. Sink frame Wrench
• When choosing a sink, make sure the predrilled Plumber’s putty or Eye and ear protection
openings will fit your faucet. silicone caulk
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Drop-in sinks, also known as self-rimming sinks, have a wide sink flange that extends beyond the edges of the sink cutout.Proof 1
They have a wide back flange to which the faucet is mounted directly.
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A SE L F- R I M M I NG SI N K
1 2 3
Invert the sink and trace around the Drill a starter hole and cut out the Attach as much of the plumbing
edges as a reference for making the sink opening with a jigsaw. Cut right as makes sense to install prior to
sink cutout cutting lines, which should up to the line. Because the sink flange setting the sink into the opening.
be parallel to the outlines, but about fits over the edges of the cutout, the Having access to the underside of the
1" inside of them to create a 1" ledge. opening doesn’t need to be perfect, flange is a great help when it comes
If the sink comes with a template for but, as always, you should try to do a to attaching the faucet body, sprayer,
the cutout, use it. nice, neat job. and strainer, in particular.
4 5 6
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Apply a bead of silicone caulk Place the sink in the opening. Try to For sinks with mounting clips,
around the edges of the sink opening. get the sink centered right away so tighten the clips from below using a
The sink flange most likely is not flat, you don’t need to move it around and screwdriver or wrench (depending on
so apply the caulk in the area that will disturb the caulk, which can break the type of clip your sink has). There
make contact with the flange. the seal. If you are installing a heavy should be at least three clips on every
cast-iron sink, it’s best to leave the side. Don’t overtighten the clips—this
strainers off so you can grab onto the can cause the sink flange to flatten or
Proof 1
sink at the drain openings. become warped.
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U N DE R MOU N T SI N K
U ndermounted sinks have become quite popular in
contemporary kitchens for reasons that are both
practical and aesthetic. On the aesthetic side, they
Post-form and any laminated or tiled countertops are
not. (Some new products that claim to seal countertop
substrate edges around a sink opening are emerging,
look updated and sleek. Practically, they are easier to but are not yet proven or readily available). If you
clean than rimmed sinks because you eliminate that are not able to locate solid-surface seam adhesive or
area around the rim seal where stuff always collects. undermount clips, you can use the same installation
Most sink manufacturers make sinks that are method for undermounting that is shown in the apron
designed for undermounting, and if you don’t mind sink mounting project on pages 420 to 423 instead.
paying the $100 to $200 premium, a true undermount
sink is the best choice. But if your decision-making is
driven more by your frugal side, you can undermount
Tools & Materials ▸
a self-rimming (drop-in) stainless steel sink with little 2HP or larger plunge router Belt sander
difficulty using readily available undermount clips. ½" template-following Solid-surface scraps
(Self-rimmers also come in a much wider range of router bit Solid-surface seam
styles). Note: You can undermount any sink you wish, Roundover bit adhesive with
including heavy cast-iron models, if you support the MDF or particleboard applicator gun
sink from below instead of hanging it from clips. Not for template Denatured alcohol
all countertops are suitable for undermounting a sink. Jigsaw Undermount clips
The countertop material needs to be contiguous in Drill and bits Silicone caulk
nature. That is, the edges that are created when you Abrasive pads Pipe clamps
cut through it need to be of the same material as the Drum sander attachment Pad sander
surface. Solid-surface, granite, butcher block, and Laminate trimmer Eye and ear protection
concrete are good candidates for undermounting.
■ HOW TO M A K E A SI N K C U TOU T T E M PL AT E
KITCHEN PROJECTS
1 2
If you are undermounting a self-rimming sink, do not use
the sink template provided by the manufacturer. Instead, make
your own custom router template to use with a router and
pattern-following bit. The template should be sized and shaped
so the cutout you make with your pattern-following bit is the
same shape and about 1⁄8" larger than the basin opening in Drill a few starter holes just inside the template outline to
each direction. You can plot the cutout directly onto a piece of create access for your jigsaw blade. If the cutout has sharp
MDF, or make a preliminary paper or cardboard template and radii at the corners, look for a bit or hole-cutter of the sameProof 1
trace it onto the MDF. radius and carefully drill out the corners.
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3 4
Connect the starter holes by cutting just inside the cutout Use a belt sander or pad sander to smooth out the cutting
line with a jigsaw. You can use a straightedge cutting guide lines and to remove material until the cutout hits the lines
for straight runs if you have little confidence in your ability to precisely. A drum sander attachment mounted in a power drill
cut straight. is useful for smoothing out rounded corners.
■ HOW TO U N DE R MOU N T A SI N K
1 2
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Remove the countertop from the cabinet and transport it to Use a two-fluted, 1⁄8" pattern-following bit (preferably carbide
a work area with good light and ventilation. Set the countertop tipped) with a ½" shank into a plunge router with a minimum
section on sawhorses and then clamp the router template (see motor size of 2HP. Retract the bit and position the router so the
previous page) securely so the opening is centered exactly bit is an inch or so away from the edge of the template. Turn
over the planned cutout area. Make sure the router bit won’t the router on and let it develop to full velocity. Then, plunge the
be cutting into your work area. router bit into the countertop material until the bit breaks all
Proof 1
the way through.
(continued)
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3 4
Pull the router bit toward the template edge until the After routing three sides of the opening, stop routing and
bit sleeve contacts the edge, then slowly cut through the screw a support board to the waste piece. The ends of the
countertop, following the template. Pace is important here: support board should extend onto the template. Position
Cutting too fast will cause chatter, cutting too slowly will cause the support so it is near the center, but not in the way for
burning or melting. Cut three continuous sides of the opening, completing the fourth side of the cut. Finish the cut. The
hugging the template edge. support board will prevent the waste from breaking off as the
cut nears completion.
5 6
KITCHEN PROJECTS
If the sink outline has any chatter or the cutout is not Mount the sink on the countertop before you reinstall it
perfectly smooth, make another pass with a straight bit before on the cabinet. Cut several 1 × 1" mounting blocks from the
you remove the template. Remove the template and make solid-surface waste cutout. You’ll also need to purchase some
a 1⁄8" roundover cut on both the top and bottom of the sink seam adhesive to glue the mounting blocks to the underside of
cutout. If you know exactly where your faucet hole or holes the countertop. After they’re cut, break all the block edges with
need to be, cut them with a hole saw and round over their tops a stationary sander or by clamping a belt sander belt-side up
and bottoms as well. and using it as a stationary sander (breaking the edges reduces
the chance that the blocks will crack).Proof 1
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7 8
Clean the blocks and the underside of the solid-surface Drill pilot holes, ¼"-dia. × ¾" deep, for the sink clips into
around the cutouts with denatured alcohol. Apply solid-surface each mounting block. The holes should be in the centers of the
seam adhesive to the blocks and bond them to the underside mounting blocks. Tap the brass inserts for the mounting clips
of the countertop, set back ¾" from the cutout. Install three into the holes in the mounting blocks.
blocks along the long sides of the cutout and two on the front-
to-back sides. Clamp the blocks while the adhesive sets up.
Clean the sink rim and the underside
9 of the countertop with denatured
alcohol. When the alcohol has dried,
apply a bead of 100% silicone adhesive
caulk to the sink rim. Carefully center
the sink over the opening and press it
KITCHEN PROJECTS
in place. Hand-tighten the wing nuts
onto the mounting nuts to secure the
clips that hold the sink bowl. Replace
the countertop and hook up the faucet
and drain.
Proof 1
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A PRON SI N K
D espite their vintage look, apron sinks are relative
newcomers in modern kitchen design. Also known
as farmer’s sinks or farmhouse sinks, they are notable
for having an exposed front apron that usually projects
past the cabinets. Although they can be double-bowl
fixtures, most apron sinks are single bowl, and most
are made from fireclay (a durable enameled porcelain).
Other materials sometimes used for apron sinks
include enameled cast iron, copper, stainless steel,
and composite. The model seen here, made by Kohler,
is a fireclay sink.
Apron sinks typically are not suspended from
above as other undermount sinks are: they’re just
too heavy. Instead, you either attach wood ledgers to
the cabinet sides to support a board that bears the
sink from below, or you build a support platform that
rests on the floor. Either way, the sink is not actually
connected to the countertop except with caulk at the
seams. As kitchen sinks go, apron sinks are definitely
on the high-end side, with most models costing over
Apron sinks, also called farmer’s sinks or farmhouse sinks,
$1,000. But they create a focal point that makes them can be nestled into a tiled countertop (called a tile-in) or
rather unique. Plus, they have a warm, comforting pressed up against the underside of a solid countertop. Either
appearance that people who own them find appealing. way, they can be gorgeous.
Tools & Materials ▸
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Countertop material Level Various screws Silicone adhesive
Shims Belt sander Wood finish Strainer
Carpenter’s square Pad sander Brush Drain tailpiece
Straightedge Spindle sander Framing lumber ¾" plywood or MDF
Jigsaw Router or laminate trimmer Sheet stock Eye and ear protection
Tape measure Drill/driver Caulk gun
■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A N A PRON SI N K I N A BU TCH E R BLOCK COU N T E RTOP
If you are undermounting the sink,
1 outline the sink opening in your
countertop material. Plan the opening to
create an equal reveal of approximatel ½"
on all three sides (which basically means
making the opening 1" smaller than the
overall sink dimensions). For the 22 × 25"
sink seen here, the opening cut into the
butcher block is 24" wide and 21" deep
(½" reveal in the back plus ½" projection
of the sink in front).Proof 1
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2 3
Mount a downstroke blade in a jigsaw (see pages 178 to Sand up to the cutting lines with a belt sander after the
183 and be sure to read the material on working with butcher waste is removed. The goal is to create a smooth, even edge.
block if that is your countertop surface). Cut out the waste
to form the sink opening, cutting just inside the cutting lines.
Support the waste wood from below so it does not break
out prematurely.
4 5 6
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Sand into the corners of the cutout Flip the countertop and sand the Round over the top edges of
with a detail sander or, if you own one, a cutout along the bottom edges of the the cutout with a piloted roundover
spindle sander (you can mount a small- opening to prevent any splintering. bit mounted in a small router or a
diameter sanding drum in an electric laminate trimmer.
Proof 1
drill, but be sure to practice first on
some scrap wood). (continued)
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7 8
Apply several coats of urethane varnish to the exposed Measure and draw layout lines for a wood support frame
wood around the opening. This wood will have a high level of to be attached to the adjoining cabinet walls. Attach the frame
water exposure, so take care to get a good, even coat. Where members (2 × 4) to the cabinet sides first and then face-
possible, match the finish of the countertop (if any). screw through the front frame member and into the ends of
side members.
9 10
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Cut a support platform to size from ¾" plywood or MDF, Remove the countertop section containing the sink cutout,
then layout and cut a drain clearance hole (if your drain will if feasible (if you can’t remove the countertop, see sidebar next
include a garbage disposer, make the hole large enough to page). Then, screw the platform to the frame.
accommodate the disposer easily). Also cut holes for the water
supply lines if they come up through the floor and there is not
enough room between the platform and the wall for the lines
to fit.Proof 1
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11 12
Set the sink on the platform and confirm that it is level Apply silicone adhesive to the sink rim and then carefully
with the cabinet tops by setting a straightedge so it spans replace the countertop section before the silicone adhesive
the sink opening. If necessary, shim under the sink to bring sets up. Reattach the countertop.
it to level (if the sink is too high you’ll need to reposition the
frame members).
13 Option for Unremovable
Countertops ▸
KITCHEN PROJECTS
Temporary braces
If you are not able to remove the countertop, you’ll need to raise the sink up
Hook up the drain plumbing and against the underside of the countertop once you’ve caulked the rim. Create a
install the faucet. If you are drilling 3-piece 2 × 4 frame and platform (as seen in Step 8) but do not attach it to the
through the countertop material cabinets. Instead, support the platform with braces. With help, set the sink on the
to install a faucet, make sure your platform and raise it from below after the silicone adhesive has been applied to
installation hole or holes align with the the sink rim. When the sink rim is tight against the countertop, attach the frame
preformed holes in the back flange of members to the cabinet sides with screws.
the sink.
Proof 1
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B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T SProof 1
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BATHROOM
PROJEC T S
F ew rooms in the home get more use from
everybody in the family than the bathroom—and
no room is subjected to more wear and tear, if for no
other reason than the constant presence of moisture.
This is one of the major reasons why bathroom
remodeling is such a common occurrence.
Another reason is the changing requirements for a
bathroom over time. A family room or kitchen serving
a young couple can just as easily serve empty nesters,
but a bathroom designed for a family with young
children may be much different than a bathroom
aimed at serving adults—especially as they reach the
empty-nest years. A bathtub with watertight wall-
surround panels may be ideal for bathing splashing
youngsters, but eventually a large, curbless shower
might be a better use of that space. A double-sink
vanity may give way to an elegant and stylish vessel
sink. A bathroom that serves adults rather than
kids might be well served with a bidet or private
toilet enclosure.
The projects that follow have been chosen largely
with this in mind: the ways in which the use of a
bathroom changes as your family’s needs change. It
will serve as useful guide for tailoring your bathroom
remodeling project to match your evolving needs.
■ IN THIS CHAPTER:
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
• Designing for Accessibility
• Shower Enclosure Kits
• Custom Shower Base
• Curbless Shower
• Alcove Bathtubs
• Three-Piece Tub Surrounds
• Soaking Tubs
• Freestanding Tubs
• Sliding Tub Doors
• Pedestal & Console Sinks
• Wall-Mounted Sinks
• Vessel Sinks
• Bidets
• Vent Fans
• Toilet Enclosure
Proof 1
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DE SIG N I NG FOR ACC E S SI BI L I T Y
A ccessibility has become a key issue not only in
the codes that regulate residential bathroom
construction, but with almost every feature designed
individuals and those who use a wheelchair or
walker alike.
More recently, a focus has been placed on
for bathrooms. From toilets to faucets to lighting and accommodating the 78 million baby boomers who are
beyond, manufacturers are responding to an aging rapidly aging into a incredibly large elderly population.
population and the need to accommodate all potential Studies show that these people want to stay in their
users of a home’s bathroom. homes and remain independent as long as possible.
Designing bathrooms to accommodate the needs The Aging-in-Place movement has sprung up to
of any individual—including those with mobility facilitate that, and to set guidelines for bathroom
limitations and even the severely disabled—is at design specifically to suit elderly users. But in reality,
the heart of what is known as “Universal Design.” Aging-in-Place is a subset of Universal Design and
The term was coined by disabled architect Ronald it is a difference largely without a distinction. If you
Mace. The goal? In Mace’s words, “The design of take the steps outlined here, and select fixtures and
products and environments to be usable by all people features designed for maximum accessibility, your
to the greatest extent possible, without the need for bathroom will be welcoming and user-friendly now
adaptation or specialized design.” In practice, that and as you age, and for anyone who might need to
translates to turnkey fixtures that work for able-bodied use it.
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Aging-in-Place bathroom design often deals with remodeling existing spaces to better suit users with age-related mobility
issues. Those who can’t stand for the span of a shower can take one while sitting in this specially adapted stool. They can use the
ergonomic handheld showerhead with a handle that clips onto a nearby grab bar. Even the toilet paper holder has been replaced
with one that has a grab bar built in.Proof 1
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■ U N I V E R SA L DE SIG N STA N DA R DS
Bathroom elements that meet the mandates of Faucets. The first step in making faucets
Universal Design are continually being refined by accessible was the use of paddle handles and single-
manufacturers as they respond to legislation such as handle faucets that could easily be manipulated
the ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) and the by those lacking dexterity, hand strength, or motor
needs of an aging population. Design style is inevitably skills. Nowadays, technology is aiding people with
a part of the process. Utilitarian features such as grab coordination and hand-strength difficulties in the
bars are increasingly crafted with stunning looks and form of motion-activated and touch-activated faucets.
finishes that make them easy to integrate into even the These make using the faucet as easy as moving a
most sophisticated bathroom style. hand. They are also a breeze to install.
Grab bars. The new rule for grab bars is Bathtubs. The standard bathtub-shower
“dual purpose.” Towel racks, toilet paper holders, combination can be retrofitted to accommodate
and bathroom shelving are all being crafted with limited mobility users with the addition of special
integrated grab bars. Not only does this mean buying stools and handheld showerheads with ergonomic
and installing one fixture in place of two, it means grips. Better yet, consider replacing an existing tub
the grab bars are a blended part of the overall look of with a walk-in model equipped with a door. These
the bathroom. Even the grab bars used in bathtubs tubs typically have seats at chair height to make the
and showers are seeing style upgrades, with molded transition into the tub easier. Many also feature jets
finger grips and the same selection of surface finishes and heaters to create a luxurious experience. When
that you’ll find in other fixtures, such as showerheads shopping for a walk-in tub, pay close attention to the
and faucets. contours of the seat and back support. These will
Toilets. The key to making this essential fixture be key to how comfortable and supportive the tub is
comfortable for every potential user lies in seat height. over the course of a nice long soak. Choose a door
Manufacturers have come up with a multitude of style that best accommodates the user’s preference;
solutions, including power-lift toilet seats, height available styles open in or out, up or down. The lower
adapters, higher-than-normal traditional toilets the threshold, the better, and the door handle should
and those that can be adjusted, and wall-mounted be easy for the intended user to operate.
toilets that can installed at any height. Grab bars are Other types of tubs can be made easier to use by
essential to assist movement on and off any toilet, so locating the controls on the outside edge of the tub or
it’s fortunate that you can find attractive toilet paper tub deck. This allows the user to fill the tub without
holder–grab bar combinations. leaning over and possibly losing balance.
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Understanding Aging in Place ▸
The Aging-in-Place movement shares much with the This entails a combination of undercabinet and
general Universal Design trend, the key difference being undercounter lighting, baseboard or cove lighting,
the focus on the needs of the elderly. As we age, we special shower lights and more powerful ambient
lose strength in our hands, arms, and legs, and often lights on the wall and ceiling to dispel any visually
have to deal with nagging chronic injuries associated confusing shadows.
with aging—arthritis and limited flexibility and mobility Nonslip surfaces. Falls are the number-one
chief among those complaints. Many Aging-in-Place cause of elderly immobilization and can have serious
changes are focused on accommodating those health ramifications. It’s essential that tubs, floors,
conditions and preventing any injury that could short- and shower stalls have truly non-slip surfaces that
circuit independence. maintain traction even when wet. This means a slip-
Lighting. Older people often deal with diminished resistant glaze or texture on any bathroom flooring,
vision, so effective lighting is key to making Aging- and decals or slip-preventing strips in bathtub-
in-Place bathrooms more user-friendly and safer. shower combinations.
Proof 1
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SHOW E R E NC LOSU R E K I T S
T he fastest and easiest way to create a new shower
in your bathroom is to frame in the stall area
with lumber and wallboard and then install a shower
Tools & Materials ▸
enclosure kit. Typically consisting of three fiberglass Tape measure Slicone caulk
or plastic walls, these enclosure kits snap together at Pencil and caulk gun
the corners and nestle inside the flanges of the shower Hammer Shower enclosure kit
pan to create nearly foolproof mechanical seals. Often Carpenter’s square Shower door
the walls are formed with shelves, soap holders, and Screwdrivers Showerhead
other conveniences. Pipe wrench Faucet
If you are on a tight budget, you can find extremely Level Plumbing supplies
inexpensive enclosure kits to keep costs down. You Strap wrench Pry bar
can even create your own custom enclosure using Adjustable wrench Deck screws
waterproof beadboard panels and snap-together Pliers Jigsaw
connectors. Or, you can invest in a higher-grade kit Drill/driver Large-head
made from thicker material that will last much longer. Center punch roofing nails
Some kits are sold with the receptor (and perhaps even File Eye and ear
the door) included. The kit shown here is designed to Utility knife protection
be attached directly to wall studs, but others require a Hacksaw
backer wall for support. The panels are attached to the Masking tape
backer with high-tack panel adhesive.
A paneled shower surround
is inexpensive and easy to install.
Designed for alcove installations, they
often are sold with matching shower
pans (called receptors). Some include
molded-in accessories such as shelves or
soap dishes.
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T SProof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A SHOW E R E NC L OSU R E
1 2
Sill plate
Mark out the location of the shower, including any new If you are adding a wall to create the alcove, lay out
walls, on the floor and walls. Most kits can be installed over the locations for the studs and plumbing on the new wood
wallboard, but you can usually achieve a more professional sill plate. Also lay out the stud locations on the cap plate
looking wall finish if you remove the wall covering and floor that will be attached to the ceiling. Refer to the enclosure
covering in the installation area. Dispose of the materials kit instructions for exact locations and dimensions of studs.
immediately and thoroughly clean the area. Attach the sill plate to the floor with deck screws and panel
adhesive, making sure it is square to the back wall and the
correct distance from the side wall.
3 4
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
New wall stud
Align a straight 2 × 4 right next to the sill plate and make Install the 2 × 4 studs at the outlined locations. Check with
a mark on the ceiling. Use a level to extend that line directly a level to make sure each stud is plumb and then attach them
above the sill plate. Attach the cap plate at that point. by driving deck screws toenail style into the sill plate and
Proof 1
cap plate.
(continued)
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5 6
Drain location
Cut an access hole in the floor for the drain, according Install a drain pipe and branch line and then trim the
to the installation manual instructions. Drill openings in the drain pipe flush with the floor. If you are not experienced
sill plate of the wet wall (the new wall in this project) for the with plumbing, hire a plumber to install the new drain line.
supply pipes, also according to the instructions.
7 Faucet body
8
Cross brace
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Ball valves
Supply riser
Install new supply risers as directed in the instruction If the supply plumbing is located in a wall (old or new)
manual (again, have a plumber do this if necessary). Also install that is accessible from the non-shower side, install framing for
cross braces between the studs in the wet wall for mounting a removable access panel.
the faucet body and shower arm. Note: Some local codes
require that you use gate valve shutoffs, not ball valves.Proof 1
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9
Attach the drain tailpiece that came with your shower Option: To stabilize the pan, especially if the floor is uneven,
pan to the underside of the unit, following the manufacturer’s pour or trowel a layer of thinset mortar into the installation
instructions precisely. Here, an adjustable spud wrench is being area, taking care to keep the mortar out of the drain access
used to tighten the tailpiece. hole. Do not apply mortar in areas where the pan has feet that
are intended to make full contact with the floor.
10 11
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Set the pan in place, check to make sure it is level, and shim Lay out the locations for the valve hole or holes in the
it if necessary. Secure the pan with large-head roofing nails end wall panel that will be installed on the wet wall. Check
driven into the wall stud so the heads pin the flange against your installation instructions. Some kits come with a template
the stud. Do not overdrive the nails. marked on the packaging carton. Cut the access hole with
a hole saw and drill or with a jigsaw and fine-tooth blade.
If using a jigsaw, orient the panel so the good surface is
facing down.
Proof 1
(continued)
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12 13
Clip
connectors
Position the back wall so there is a slight gap (about 1⁄32") Remove the end walls so you can prepare the installation
between the bottom of the panel and the rim of the pan—set area for them. If your kit recommends panel adhesive, apply it
a few small spacers on the rim if need be. Tack a pair of roofing to the wall or studs. In the kit shown here, only a small bead of
nails above the top of the back panel to hold it in place (or use silicone sealant on the pan flange is required.
duct tape). Position both end walls and test the fits. Make clip
connections between panels (inset) if your kit uses them.
14 15
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Reinstall the end panels, permanently clipping them to the Once the panels are positioned correctly and snapped
back panel according to the kit manufacturer’s instructions. together, fasten them to the wall studs. If the panels have
Make sure the front edges of the end panels are flush with predrilled nail holes, drive roofing nails through them at each
the front of the pan. stud at the panel tops and every 4 to 6" along vertical surfaces.Proof 1
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16 17
Install wallcovering material above the enclosure panels Finish the walls and then caulk between the enclosure
and anywhere else it is needed. Use moisture-resistant panels and the wallcoverings with silicone caulk.
materials, and maintain a gap of ¼" between the shoulders of
the top panel flanges and the wallcovering.
18 19
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Access
panel
Install the faucet handles and escutcheon and caulk Make an access panel and attach it at the framed opening
around the escutcheon plate. Install the shower arm created in step 8. A piece of ¼" plywood framed with mitered
escutcheon and showerhead. Add a shower door. case molding and painted to match the wall is one idea for
access panel covers.
Proof 1
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C USTOM SHOW E R BA SE
B uilding a custom-tiled shower base lets you choose
the shape and size of your shower rather than
having its dimensions dictated by available products.
Tools & Materials ▸
Tape measure 16d galvanized
Building the base is quite simple, though it does require Circular saw common nails
time and some knowledge of basic masonry techniques Hammer 3-piece shower drain
because the base is formed primarily using mortar. What Utility knife PVC primer and
you get for your time and trouble can be spectacular. Straightedge cement
Before designing a shower base, contact your local Stapler Galvanized finish nails
building department regarding code restrictions and 2' level Galvanized metal lath
to secure the necessary permits. Most codes require Torpedo level Thinset mortar
water controls to be accessible from outside the Mortar mixing box Thick-bed floor mortar
shower and describe acceptable door positions and Trowel Latex mortar additive
operation. Requirements like these influence the size Wood float CPE waterproof
and position of the base. Felt-tip marker membrane
Choosing the tile before finalizing the design lets Ratchet wrench & preformed
you size the base to require mostly or only full tiles. Expandable stopper dam corners
Consider using small tile and create a color graduation Drill CPE membrane
from top to bottom or in a sweep across the walls. Tin snips solvent glue
Or, use trim tile and listellos on the walls to create an Torpedo level CPE membrane
interesting focal point. Tools and materials sealant
Whatever tile you choose, remember to seal the for installing tile Cementboard
grout in your new shower and to maintain it carefully 2 × 4 and 2 × 10 and materials
over the years. Water-resistant grout protects the framing lumber Eye and ear protection
structure of the shower and prolongs its useful life. 15# building paper
Mortar
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Metal lath
Mortar
CPE membrane
Mortar
Subfloor
Metal lath
3-piece Building paper
drain Tile
spacersProof 1 2 T
A custom shower base is built in three layers to ensure proper drainage: the underlayment, the shower pan, and the shower floor.
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■ HOW TO BU I L D A C USTOM -T I L E D SHOW E R BA SE
1 2
Remove building materials to expose subfloor and stud Staple 15-pound building paper to the subfloor of the
walls. Cut three 2 × 4s for the curb and fasten them to the shower base. Disassemble the 3-piece shower drain and glue
floor joists and the studs at the shower threshold with 16d the bottom piece to the drain pipe with PVC cement. Partially
galvanized common nails. Also cut 2 × 10 lumber to size and screw the drain bolts into the drain piece, and stuff a rag into
install in the stud bays around the perimeter of the shower the drain pipe to prevent mortar from falling into the drain.
base. Install (or have installed) drain and supply plumbing.
3 4
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Mark the height of the bottom drain piece on the wall Staple galvanized metal lath over the building paper;
farthest from the center of the drain. Measure from the center cut a hole in the lath ½" from the drain. Mix thinset mortar to a
of the drain straight across to that wall, then raise the height fairly dry consistency, using a latex additive for strength; mortar
mark ¼" for every 12" of shower floor to slope the pre pan should hold its shape when squeezed (inset). Trowel the mortar
toward the drain. Trace a reference line at the height mark onto the subfloor, building the pre pan from the flange of the
around the perimeter of the entire alcove, using a level. drain piece to the height line on the perimeter of the walls.
Proof 1
(continued)
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5 6
Continue using the trowel to form Measure the dimensions of the shower floor, and mark it out on a sheet of CPE
the pre pan, checking the slope using waterproof membrane, using a felt-tipped marker. From the floor outline, measure
a level and filling any low spots with out and mark an additional 8" for each wall and 16" for the curb end. Cut the
mortar. Finish the surface of the pre membrane to size, using a utility knife and straightedge. Be careful to cut on a clean,
pan with a wood float until it is even smooth surface to prevent puncturing the membrane. Lay the membrane onto the
and smooth. Allow the mortar to shower pan.
cure overnight.
7 8
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Measure to find the exact location of the drain and mark Apply CPE sealant around the drain. Fold the membrane
it on the membrane, outlining the outer diameter of the drain along the floor outline. Set the membrane over the pre
flange. Cut a circular piece of CPE membrane roughly 2" larger pan so the reinforced drain seal is centered over the drain
than the drain flange, then use CPE membrane solvent glue to bolts. Working from the drain to the walls, carefully tuck the
weld it into place and reinforce the seal at the drain. membrane tight into each corner, folding the extra material
into triangular flaps.Proof 1
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9 10
Dam corner
Apply CPE solvent glue to one side, press the flap flat, then At the shower curb, cut the membrane along the studs so
staple it in place. Staple only the top edge of the membrane to it can be folded over the curb. Solvent glue a dam corner at
the blocking; do not staple below the top of the curb, or on the each inside corner of the curb. Do not fasten the dam corners
curb itself. with staples.
11 12
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
At the reinforced drain seal on the membrane, locate and Use a utility knife to carefully cut away only enough of the
mark the drain bolts. Press the membrane down around the membrane to expose the drain and allow the middle drain
bolts, then use a utility knife to carefully cut a slit just large piece to fit in place. Remove the drain bolts, then position
enough for the bolts to poke through. Push the membrane the middle drain piece over the bolt holes. Reinstall the bolts,
down over the bolts. tightening them evenly and firmly to create a watertight seal.
Proof 1
(continued)
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13 14
Test the shower pan for leaks overnight. Fill the shower Install cementboard on the alcove walls, using ¼" wood
pan with water, to 1" below the top of the curb. Mark the shims to lift the bottom edge off the CPE membrane. To
water level and let the water sit overnight. If the water level prevent puncturing the membrane, do not use fasteners in the
remains the same, the pan holds water. If the level is lower, lower 8" of the cementboard. Cut a piece of metal lath to fit
locate and fix leaks in the pan using patches of membrane around the three sides of the curb. Bend the lath so it tightly
and CPE solvent. conforms to the curb. Pressing the lath against the top of the
curb, staple it to the outside face of the curb. Mix enough
mortar for the two sides of the curb.
15 16
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Overhang the front edge of the curb with a straight 1× Attach the drain strainer piece to the drain, adjusting
board so it is flush with the outer wall material. Apply mortar it to a minimum of 1½" above the shower pan. On one wall,
to the mesh with a trowel, building to the edge of the board. mark 1½" up from the shower pan, then use a level to draw
Clear away excess mortar; then use a torpedo level to check a reference line around the perimeter of the shower base.
for plumb, making adjustments as needed. Repeat for the Because the pre pan establishes the ¼" per foot slope, this
inside face of the curb. Note: The top of the curb will be measurement will maintain that slope.
finished after tile is installed (Step 19). Allow the mortar to
cure overnight.Proof 1
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17 18
Spread tile spacers over the weep holes of the drain to Continue to add mortar, building the floor to the reference
prevent mortar from plugging the holes. Mix the floor mortar, line on the walls. Use a level to check the slope, and pack
then build up the shower floor to roughly half the planned mortar into low spots with a trowel. Leave space around the
thickness of this layer. Cut metal lath to cover the mortar bed, drain flange for the thickness of the tile. Float the surface
keeping it ½" from the drain (see photo in Step 18). using a wood float until it is smooth and slopes evenly to the
drain. When finished, allow the mortar to cure overnight before
installing the tiles.
19 20 Bullnose tile
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Built-up curb
Shower pan
Install the tile. At the curb, cut the tiles for the inside to Mix enough mortar to cover the unfinished top of the curb,
protrude ½" above the unfinished top of the curb, and the tiles then pack it in place between the tiles, using a trowel. Screed
for the outside to protrude 5⁄8" above the top, establishing a off the excess mortar flush with the tops of the side tiles. Allow
1
⁄8" slope so water drains back into the shower. Use a level to the mortar to cure, then install bullnose cap tile. Install the
check the tops of the tiles for level as you work. wall tile, then grout, clean, and seal all the tile. After the grout
has cured fully, run a bead of silicone caulk around all inside
corners to create control joints.
Proof 1
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C U R BL E S S SHOW E R
W hether it’s part of a complete “wet room,” or
installed as a standalone feature, a curbless
shower combines easy access for those with limited
we used for this project is typical of the prefab curbless
pan construction; it can support 1,100 pounds even
though the pan itself weighs less than 70 pounds. It
mobility, convenience for other users, and a look that sits right on floor joists, with the addition of blocking
is trendy, sophisticated, and attractive. The trick to to support the area around the drain, and to provide
installing one of these water features is to ensure the nailing surfaces around the edges.
moisture stays inside the shower. Kits like these offer advantages beyond the ease
Once upon a time, creating a reliably waterproof of installation and a thoughtful configuration of parts.
enclosure for a curbless shower was no small chore. Usually, the plumbing can be completely adjusted and
It meant putting a lot of work into creating a custom connected from above, so you won’t need to work in
shower pan. This kind of project was usually above the basement or a crawl space, or open up a first-
the skill level or desire of the weekend DIYer, and it floor ceiling to install a second-floor shower. The kits
generally meant hiring a contractor. themselves generally include almost everything you’ll
Now you can buy curbless shower pan kits that need for the installation.
make installation a breeze. The manufacturers have
thought through all the issues that can arise and have
developed the kits and shower pans to be as foolproof
as possible, while also meeting prevailing codes and
Tools & Materials ▸
best standards and practices. Installing a curbless Circular saw Synthetic paintbrush
shower using one of these kits is a realistic project for Jigsaw Waterproof latex sealant
any home handyperson with even moderate DIY skills Caulking gun Caulkgun
and a weekend to spare. Torpedo level Waterproofing tape
These pans come with preconfigured slopes to Cordless drill and bits Liquid waterproofing
ensure optimal drainage away from the shower’s edges. PVC cement and brush membrane
The product we used for this project, the Tuff Form kit Screwdriver Roller and roller handle
from Access Reliability Center, includes an offset drain Speed square Tiles
hole that offers the option of rotating the pan in the Screws Thinset tile adhesive
event of a joist or mechanicals that are in the way. This Putty knife Notched trowel
product is offered in nine different sizes and can be cut Palm sander and Tile saw
with a circular saw to just about any shape—including 120-grit pad Adhesive mat
more unusual, curvy shapes for a truly custom look. Scissors Eye and ear protection
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Curbless shower pan manufacturers also sell pans Rubber gloves
with trench drains for an even sleeker look. The pan
A curbless shower kit includes almost
everything you need. All you have to
supply are some basic tools, the tile, and a
little elbow grease.Proof 1
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Wet Rooms and Universal Design ▸
Because a wet room allows the bathroom to be designed in showers. Most codes specify that grab bars must be
with fewer barriers and a single-level floor surface, able to support up to 200 pounds—which usually means
these rooms are natural partners to a Universal Design adding blocking in the walls behind the grab bars.
approach. If you’re thinking about converting a bathroom Shower stall. One of the benefits to adding a
to a wet room, it’s worthwhile to consider a little extra curbless shower is easy wheelchair (or walker) access. For
effort to make the space as accessible as possible for the maximum accessibility, the shower area should be at least
maximum number of users. 60" wide by at least 36" deep (60" by 60" is preferable).
Walls. Where codes allow it, consider using thick This allows a wheelchair-bound user to occupy the stall
plywood rather than cementboard for the wall sub- with a helper. And, although the idea is a wide-open
surfaces. Plywood allows for direct installation of grab shower space, it’s always a good idea to add a fold down
bars without the need for blocking or locating studs. If seat. This allows for transfer from a wheelchair, or a place
you’re set on using cementboard, plan out locations for for someone with limited leg strength and endurance
grab bars near toilets, behind and alongside bathtubs, and to sit.
■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A WAT E R PROOF SU BBA SE FOR A CU R BL ESS SHOW E R
Remove the existing flooring material
1 in the area of the shower pan (if you’re
remodeling an existing bathroom). Use a
circular saw to cut out and remove the
subfloor in the exact dimensions of the
shower pan. Finish the cuts with a jigsaw
or handsaw.
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Reinforce the floor with blocking
2 between joists as necessary. Toenail
bridge blocking in on either side of the
drain waste pipe location, and between
joists anywhere you’ll need a nailing
surface along the edges of the shower
pan. If trusses or joists are spaced more
than 16" on center, add bridge blocking to
adequately support the pan. Proof 1
(continued)
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3 4
Set the pan in the opening to make sure it fits and is level. Install or relocate drain pipes as needed. Check with
If it is not level, screw shims to the tops of any low joists and your local building department: if the drain and trap are not
check again: repeat if necessary until the pan is perfectly level accessible from below you may need to have an on-site
in all directions. inspection before you cover up the plumbing.
5 6
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Check the height of the drainpipe—its top should be Lay a thick bead of construction adhesive along the
exactly 23⁄8" from the bottom of the pan—measure down from contact areas on all joists, nailing surfaces, and blocking.
the top of the joist. If the drainpipe is too high, remove it and
trim with a tubing cutter. If it is too low, replace the assembly
with a new assembly that has a longer tailpiece.Proof 1
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7 8
Set the pan in place and screw it down, using at least Disassemble the supplied drain assembly. Be careful
2 screws along each side. Do not overtighten the screws. If not to lose any of the screws. Place the drain tailpiece on the
you’ve cut off the screwing flange on one or more sides to waste pipe under where the pan’s drainhole will be located,
accommodate an unusual shape, drill 1⁄8" pilot holes in the and measure to check that it sits at the correct level. Solvent-
cut edges at joist or blocking locations, and drive the screws glue the tailpiece to the end of the waste pipe.
through the holes.
9 10
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Position the supplied gaskets on top of the tailpiece (check Thread the tail top piece into the tail through the drain
the manufacturer’s instructions; the gaskets usually need to flange. Use a speed square or other lever, such as spread
be layered in the correct order). Set the drain flange piece on channel lock pliers, to snugly tighten the tail top piece in place.
top of the tail, and into the drain hole in the pan. Drill 1⁄8" pilot
holes through the flange and into the pan. Screw the flange to
the pan.
Proof 1
(continued)
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11 12
Install tile underlayment for the rest of the project area. If Scrape any stickers or other blemishes off the pan with
the underlayment is higher than the top of the pan once it is a putty knife. Lightly sand the entire surface of the pan using
installed, you’ll have to sand it to level, gradually tapering away 120-grit sandpaper to help the sealant adhere. After you’re
from the pan. done sanding, wipe down the sanded pan with a damp sponge.
Make sure the entire area is clean.
13 14
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Seal the edge seams at the wall and between the pan and Cut strips of waterproofing tape to cover all seams in
subfloor with waterproof latex sealant. Caulk any pan screw the tile underlayment (both walls and floor). Also cut strips
holes that were not used. for the joints where walls and floor meet. Open the pail of
liquid waterproofing membrane and mix the liquid thoroughly.
Beginning at the top and working down, brush a bed of
waterproofing liquid over the seams. Before it dries, set the
tape firmly into the waterproofing. Press and smooth the tape.
Then brush a layer of waterproofing compound over the tape.Proof 1
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15 16
Trace a hole in the center of the waterproof drain gasket, Apply a thin coat of the waterproofing compound around
using the bottom of the drain clamping donut. Cut the hole the drain hole and to the back of the drain gasket. Don’t apply
out using scissors. Be careful cutting the gasket because it is too much; if the waterproofing is too thick under the gasket, it
a crucial part of the drain waterproofing. Check the fit with the may not dry correctly.
gasket against the underside of the clamping donut top flange.
17 18
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Put the gasket in place and brush a coat of the Use a roller to roll waterproofing compound across the walls
waterproofing over the gasket. Screw the clamping donut in and over the entire pan surface. The ideal is 4mm thick (about
place on the top of the drain and over the membrane. Hand- the thickness of a credit card). Allow this first coat to dry for
tighten the bolts and then cover the clamping donut with the 2 hours, then cover with a second coat. This should conclude
waterproofing compound (avoid covering the slide lock for the the waterproofing phase of the project and you’re ready
drain grate). to begin laying tile once the waterproofing compound has
dried thoroughly.
Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L T I L E FOR A C U R BL E S S SHOW E R
1 2
Set the floor tile first. Begin by placing a sample of the floor Begin laying floor tile in the corner of the shower. Lay a bed
tile directly next to the drain so you can set the drain grate of thinset tile adhesive, using a notched trowel. The thinset
height to match. The adjustable mounting plate for the grate container should specify the notch size (3⁄8" square notch
should be flush with the tops of the tile. is common).
3 4
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Place the corner tile into the bed of thinset and press it Install tile so a small square of untiled area is left around
to set it. Don’t press down too hard or you will displace too the drain opening (which, in the system seen here, is square,
much of the material. Continue laying tile, fanning out from the making for an easier cutting job).
corner toward the drain opening. Leave space around the drain
opening as it is likely you’ll need to cut tiles to fit.Proof 1
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5 6
Mark the tiles that surround the drain opening for cutting. Cut the tiles along the trim lines using a tile saw. If you are
Leave a small gap between the tiles next to the drain grate not comfortable using a tile saw, score the tiles and cut them
mounting plate. with tile nippers.
7 8
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Apply thinset onto the shower pan, taking care not to get Set the cut tiles around the drain opening, doing your best
any on the drain grate mounting plate. You may need to use a to maintain even gaps that match the gaps in the rest of the
small trowel or a putty knife to get into small gaps. floor. Once you’ve finished tiling around the drain, complete
setting floor tile in the rest of the project area.
Proof 1
(continued)
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9 10
Let the floor tile set overnight and then apply grout. Using Snap the grate cover into the cover mounting plate (if
a grout sponge, wipe the grout over the gaps so all gaps are you’ve stuffed a rag into the drain opening to keep debris out,
filled evenly. After the grout dries, buff the floor with a towel to be sure to remove it first). The grate cover seen here locks
wipe up excess residue. in with a small key that should be saved in case you need to
remove the grate cover.
11 12
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Begin setting the wall tile. Generally, it’s easiest if you start In the design used here, a border of the same mosaic tile
at the bottom and work upward. Instead of thinset adhesive, used in the floor is installed all around the shower area to
an adhesive mat is being used here. This relatively new product make the first course. Dark brown accent tiles are installed in
is designed for walls and is rated for waterproof applications. a single vertical column running upward, centered on the line
It is a good idea to use a spacer (¼" thick or so) to get an even formed by the shower faucet and showerhead. This vertical
border at the bottoms of the first tiles. column is installed after the bottom border.Proof 1
448 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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13 14
Next, another vertical column of accent tiles is installed on Finally, larger field tiles that match the floor tile used outside
each side of the large, dark tiles. These columns are also laid the shower area are installed up to the corner and outward
using the floor tile, which connects the walls and floor visually from the shower area. Starting at the bottom, set a thin spacer
in an effective way. on top of the border tiles to ensure even gaps.
15
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Grout the gaps in the wall tiles. It’s usually a good idea
to protect any fittings, such as the shower faucet handle
escutcheon, with painters tape prior to grouting. If you wish, a
clear surround may be installed to visually define the shower
area, as in the photo to the right, but because the shower pan
is pitched toward the drain it really is not necessary.
Proof 1
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A LCOV E BAT H T U B S Tools & Materials ▸
Channel-type pliers Pliers
Hacksaw Galvanized deck screws
M ost of our homes are equipped with an alcove
tub that includes a tub surround and shower. By
combining the tub and the shower in one fixture, you
Carpenter’s level
Pencil
Drain-waste-overflow kit
1 × 3, 1 × 4, 2 × 4
Tape measure lumber
conserve precious bathroom floor space and simplify Saw Galvanized roofing nails
the initial installation. Plus, you only have one bathing Screwdriver Galvanized roof flashing
fixture that needs cleaning. Drill Thinset mortar
But because tub/showers are so efficient, they Adjustable wrench Plumber’s putty
do get a lot of use and tend to have fairly limited Trowel Tub and tile caulk
lifespans. The fact that the most inexpensive tubs on Shims Propane torch
the market are designed for alcove use also reduces Fiberglass insulation Eye and ear protection
the average tub/shower lifespan. Pressed steel tubs Hammer
have enamel finishes that crack and craze; plastic and
fiberglass tubs get grimy and stained; even acrylic and
composite tubs show wear eventually (and as with
other fixtures, styles and colors change too). the decision process should be to find the access panel
Plumbing an alcove tub is a relatively difficult job and determine if it is sufficient. If it is not (or there is no
because getting access to the drain lines attached to the panel at all), consider how you might enlarge it. Often,
tub and into the floor is often very awkward. Although an this means cutting a hole in the wall on the adjoining
access panel is required by most codes, the truth is that room and also in the ceiling below. This creates more
many tubs were installed without them or with panels work, of course, but compared to the damage caused by
that are too small or hard to reach to be of much use. If a leaky drain from a subpar installation, making an access
you are contemplating replacing your tub, the first step in opening is little inconvenience.
A tub alcove is sized to accept a
standard bathtub, usually 5' long in most
of North America. A tub with an apron is
typical, but you can build out the front
instead if you choose.
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T SProof 1
450 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Text SLC Page:450
Tub spout
nipple
Faucet
Flashing
Tub ledger
Overflow pipe
Shutoff Drain tailpiece
valves
Hot water supply
Cold water
supply Drain T-fitting
Branch
drain
Wall and floor sections cut P-trap
away for clarity
The plumbing for a bathtub includes hot and cold supply pipes, shutoff valves, faucet, and a spout. Supply connections can be
made before or after the tub is installed. The drain-waste-overflow system for a bathtub includes the overflow pipe, drain T-fitting,
P-trap, and branch drain. The overflow pipe assembly is attached to the tub before installation.
Overflow
coverplate Overflow
pipe
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Drain
Waste T-fitting
drain
Drain tube
coverplate
Drain
tailpiece
A drain-waste-overflow kit with a stopper mechanism Add fiberglass insulation around the body of a steel
must be attached to the tub before it is installed. Available in bathtub to reduce noise and conserve heat. Before
both brass and plastic types, most kits include an overflow setting the tub in position, wrap unfaced batting around
coverplate, a height-adjustable overflow pipe, a drain T-fitting the tub, and secure it with string or twine. For showers,
and tailpiece, a waste drain tube, and a drain coverplate that deck-mounted whirlpools, and saunas, insulate between
screws into the drain tube. the framing members.
Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A N E W A LCOV E T U B
1 2
Prepare for the new tub. Inspect and remove old or Check the subfloor for level—if it is not level, use pour-on
deteriorated wall surfaces or framing members in the tub area. floor leveler compound to correct it (ask at your local flooring
With today’s mold-resistant wallboard products, it makes extra store). Make sure the supply and drain pipes and the shutoff
sense to go ahead and strip off the old alcove wallcoverings valves are in good repair and correct any problems you
and ceiling down to the studs so you can replace them. This encounter. If you have no bath fan in the alcove, now is the
also allows you to inspect for hidden damage in the wall and perfect time to add one.
ceiling cavities.
3 4
Faucet
body
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Heatproof
Riser tube mat
Check the height of the crossbraces for the faucet body Begin by installing the new water supply plumbing.
and the showerhead. If your family members needed to stoop Measure to determine the required height of your shower riser
to use the old shower, consider raising the brace for the tube and cut it to length. Attach the bottom of the riser to the
showerhead. Read the instructions for your new faucet/diverter faucet body and the top to the shower elbow.
and check to see that the brace for the faucet body will conform
to the requirements (this includes distance from the surround
wall as well as height). Adjust the brace locations as needed.Proof 1
452 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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5 6
Attach the faucet body to the cross brace with pipe Slide the bathtub into the alcove. Make sure the tub is flat
hanger straps. Then, attach supply tubing from the stop valves on the floor and pressed flush against the back wall. If your tub
to the faucet body, making sure to attach the hot water to the did not come with a tub protector, cut a piece of cardboard to
left port and cold to the right port. Also secure the shower line the tub bottom, and tape pieces of cardboard around the
elbow to its cross brace with a pipe strap. Do not attach the rim to protect the finish from damage.
shower arm yet.
7 8
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Mark locations for ledger boards. To do this, trace the Install 1 × 4 ledger boards. Drive two or three 3"-galvanized
height of the top of the tub’s nailing flange onto the wall studs deck screws through the ledger board at each stud. All three
in the alcove. Then remove the tub and measure the height of walls should receive a ledger. Leave an open space in the wet
the nailing flange. Measure down this same amount from your wall to allow clearance for the drain-waste-overflow (DWO) kit.
flange lines and mark new ledger board locations.
Proof 1
(continued)
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9 10
Drain strainer
Install the drain-waste-overflow (DWO) pipes before you Thread the male-threaded drain strainer into the
install the tub. Make sure to get a good seal on the slip nuts at female-threaded drain waste elbow. Wrap a coil of plumber’s
the pipe joints. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to make putty around the drain outlet underneath the plug rim first.
sure the pop-up drain linkage is connected properly. Make sure Hand tighten only.
rubber gaskets are positioned correctly at the openings on the
outside of the tub.
11 12
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Attach the overflow coverplate, making sure the pop-up Place the tub back into the alcove, taking care not to
drain controls are in the correct position. Tighten the mounting bump the DWO assembly and disturb the connections. You
screws that connect to the mounting plate to sandwich the definitely will want a helper for this job. If the drain outlet of
rubber gasket snugly between the overflow pipe flange and the DWO assembly is not directly over the drain pipe when the
the tub wall. Then, finish tightening the drain strainer against tub is in position, you’ll need to remove it and adjust the drain
the waste elbow by inserting the handle of a pair of pliers into line location.
the strainer body and turning.Proof 1
454 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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13 14
Attach the drain outlet from the DWO assembly to the drain Drive a 11⁄2" galvanized roofing nail at each stud location,
P-trap. If your alcove walls are covered, you will appreciate just over the top of the tub’s nailing flange (inset). The nail head
that you spent the time to create a roomy access panel for the should pin the flange to the stud. For extra protection against
tub plumbing. Test the drain and overflow to make sure they moisture penetration, nail strips of metal flashing to the studs
don’t leak. Also test the water supply plumbing, temporarily so they cover the tub flange.
attaching the handles, spout, and shower arm so you can
operate the faucet and the diverter.
15 16
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Install the wallcoverings and tub surround (see pages Install fittings. First, thread the shower arm into the shower
456 to 459 for a three-piece surround installation). You can elbow and attach the spout nipple to the valve assembly. Also
also make a custom surround from tileboard or cementboard attach the shower head and escutcheon, the faucet handle/
and tile. diverter with escutcheon, and the tub spout. Use thread
lubricant on all parts.
Proof 1
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THREE-PIECE
TUB SURROUNDS Tools & Materials ▸
Jigsaw Adhesive
Hole saw Screwdriver
N o one wants bathroom fixtures that are aging
or yellowed from years of use. A shiny new
tub surround can add sparkle and freshness to your
Drill
Tape measure
Adjustable wrench
Pry bar
Level Hammer
dream bath. Caulking gun 3-piece tub surround
Tub surrounds come in many different styles, Panel adhesive Eye and ear protection
materials, and price ranges. Choose the features Silicone caulk
you want and measure your existing bathtub
surround for sizing. Surrounds typically come in
three or five pieces. A three-panel surround is removed and textured plaster must be sanded smooth.
being installed here, but the process is similar for Surrounds can be installed over ceramic tile that is
five-panel systems. well attached and in good condition, but it must be
Surface preparation is important for good sanded and primed. All surfaces must be primed with
glue adhesion. Plastic tiles and wallpaper must be a water-based primer.
Three-piece tub surrounds are
inexpensive and come in many colors
and styles. The typical unit has two end
panels and a back panel that overlap in
the corners to form a watertight seal. They
are formed from fiberglass, PVC, acrylic,
or proprietary resin-based polymers.
Five-piece versions are also available
and typically have more features such as
integral soap shelves and even cabinets.
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T SProof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A T H R E E - PI E C E T U B SU R ROU N D
1 2
Remove the old plumbing fixtures and wallcoverings in the Replace the wallcoverings with appropriate materials, such
tub area. In some cases you can attach surround panels to as water- and mold-resistant wallboard or cementboard (for
old tileboard or even tile, but it is generally best to remove the ceramic tile installations). Make sure the new wall surfaces
wallcoverings down to the studs if you can, so you may inspect are smooth and flat. Some surround kit manufacturers
for leaks or damage. recommend that you apply a coat of primer to sheet goods
such as greenboard to create a better bonding surface for the
panel adhesive.
3 Test-fitting ▸
Ensure a perfect fit by taping the surround panels to
the walls in the tub area. Make sure the tops are level
when the overlap seams are aligned and that you
have a consistent gap between the panel bottoms
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
and the tub flange. Mark the panels for cutting if
necessary and, once the panels have been removed,
make any adjustments to the walls that are needed.
Test-fit the panels before you start; the tub may have
settled unevenly or the walls may be out of plumb. Check
the manufacturer’s directions for distinguishing right and left
panels. Place a panel in position on the tub ledge. Use a level
across the top of the panel to determine if it is level. Create
a vertical reference line to mark the edge of the panel on the
plumbing end.
Proof 1
(continued)
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4 5
After performing the testfit, check the fitting instructions Lay out the locations of the faucets, spout, and shower
to see if you need to trim any of the pieces. Follow the arm. Measure in from the vertical reference line (made in
manufacturer’s instructions for cutting. Here, we had to cut the Step 3) and up from the top of the tub ledge. Re-measure for
corner panels because the instructions advise not to overlap accuracy, as any cuts to the surround are final. Place the panel
the back or side panel over the corner panels by more than face-up on a sheet of plywood. Mark the location of the holes.
3". Cut panels using a jigsaw and a fine-tooth blade that is Cut the holes ½" larger than the pipe diameter. If your faucet
appropriate for cutting fiberglass or acrylic tileboard. has a recessed trim plate, cut the hole to fit the recess. Using
a hole saw or a jigsaw, cut out the plumbing access holes.
6 7
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Apply the panel adhesive to the back of an end plumbing Remove the protective backing from the tape. Carefully
panel. Circle the plumbing outlet holes 1" from the edge. lift the panel by the edges and place against the corner and
Follow the manufacturer’s application pattern. Do not apply top of the tub ledge. Press firmly from top to bottom in the
adhesive closer than 1" to the double-sided tape or the bottom corner, then throughout the panel.
edge of the panel.Proof 1
458 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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8 9
Test-fit the opposite end panel and make any necessary Apply adhesive to the back panel following the
adjustments. Apply the adhesive, remove the protective manufacturer’s instructions. Maintain a 1" space between
backing from the tape, and put in place. Apply pressure adhesive tape and the bottom of the panel. Remove protective
to the corner first from top to bottom, and then apply backing from the tape. Lift the panel by the edges and carefully
pressure throughout. center between the two end panels. When positioned, firmly
press in place from top to bottom.
10 11
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Apply caulk to the bottom and top edges of the panels Apply silicone caulk to escutcheons or trim plates and
and at panel joints. Dip your fingertip in water and use it to reinstall them. Allow a minimum of 24 hours for caulk and
smooth the caulk to a uniform bead. adhesive to cure thoroughly before using the shower or tub.
Proof 1
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B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T SProof 1
460 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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SOA K I NG T U B S
L ong a favorite in the Japanese culture, soaking tubs
continue to gain fans in America. Although you
can soak in any tub, an actual soaking tub is designed
a platform built especially for the tub. The platform
allows you to sit and then ease into the tub. A wide
platform such as the one discussed here leaves plenty
so that the bather sits—rather than reclines— of space for candles, bath salts, plants, or other decor-
immersed in water up to the chin. It usually only takes and mood-enhancing additions.
one long soak for a person to become a devotee of the The platform described in the instructions that follow
soaking tub’s relaxing benefits. is 22 inches high with a 14-inch wide ledge—comfortably
Traditional soaking tubs are manufactured with accommodating seating around the tub. The tub itself is
sides that can rise 36 inches high or higher; but today’s 24 inches high, with a 2-inch lip. You can build a platform
soaking tubs for home use are available in a range of so that the tub rim fits flush, but a lip is a good idea to
sizes, many with sides around 24 inches deep. (It’s keep towels and other items from accidentally sliding off
crucial for proper soaking that the overflow drain is the platform and into the bathwater.
positioned 20 inches or more from the bottom to allow As with other types of tubs, soaking tubs come in
the tub to be almost completely filled.) a range of styles, shapes, and colors.
Getting in and out of these types of tubs can be a
challenge, which is why they are often installed into
Tools & Materials ▸
Plumbing tools Cementboard
& supplies Hacksaw
Tape measure Circular saw
Drill Torpedo level
Hammer Thinset mortar
4' level Silicone caulk
Utility knife Deck-mount faucet set
2 × 4 lumber Soaking tub
2" screws Tile mortar
11⁄4" cementboard screws Tile grout
Notched trowel Grout float
A soaking tub needs to be deep, but not necessarily wide.
Grout sponge Ceramic tile
CDX plywood (field and bullnose)
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
That makes them ideal for long narrow spaces such as this
under-window area. Here, a soaking tub with a modest ledge Framing square Eye and ear protection
adds big luxury in a small footprint.
Access Panels ▸
Making the supply and drain hook-ups on a bathtub usually requires access from below or behind the installation area.
When installing a drop-in tub in a framed deck platform, you can gain access through the platform apron area, too. If you are
hooking up the drain with a slip connection, the Universal Plumbing Code requires that you install a permanent access panel
(see page 433) in the wall behind the tub or in the floor and ceiling below. But regardless of codes, you should make a point
of creating permanent access to the plumbing hook-ups whenever possible. In the tub installation seen here, a removable
access panel on the opposite side of the wet wall provides access to both the drain and supply hookups. This allows the
platform deck and apron to be tiled in a contiguous manner. Because the faucet plumbing is readily accessible, each supply
tube is connected to a shutoff valve next to the fixture and supply risers are used to bring water to the faucet valve.
Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A S OA K I NG T U B W I T H PL AT FOR M
1 2
Place the tub in position on the subfloor. The tub should be 14½" from the two Measure from under the lip edge
corner walls, measured from the underside of the tub lip—where the inside edge of to the subfloor. This will be the height
the platform deck will run—to wall studs. This allows for ½"-thick wall surface. Shim of the platform wall framing, minus the
as necessary to level the tub both ways, or adjust self-leveling feet if tub has them. CDX plywood decking, ½" cementboard,
Hang a plumb bob from the underside of the lip at each corner of tub and mark the and tile.
subfloor. Check that marks on adjacent corners are the same distance from the wall.
3 4
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Remove the tub and hammer a nail in at each corner point. Measure and mark 131⁄2" from the inside edge of the open
Snap chalk lines to represent the inside lines of the inner side sole plates, at several points along the plates. These marks
platform wall. Measure, cut, and align the 2 × 4 sole plates with will serve as guide points for placing the sole plates of the
the chalk lines. Screw all four sole plates for the inside platform outside platform walls. Line up the outside edge of the two
wall into position. Check diagonal measurements or use a outer wall sole plates and screw them in place to the subfloor.
framing square to ensure the sole plates are square. Measure again to ensure the sole plates are positioned correctly.Proof 1
462 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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5 6
Measure and cut studs to create the proper platform height. Route supply lines from the wet wall to the location of
Install studs for both inside and outside platform walls, spacing the deck-mount faucet. The connections will depend on
them every 16". Use L configurations at corners so that the top what type of deck-mount faucet you’ve chosen. Follow the
plates intersect opposite the sole plates. Cut cross braces and manufacturer’s instructions for securing the hot and cold
screw them in place, staggering with the stud placement. connections for the faucet. If you’re unsure of how to plumb
the faucet, hire a plumber.
7 8
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Measure and cut CDX plywood for the platform deck (the Measure and cut the deck cementboard to cover the
deck for the two open sides should overhang the outside wall plywood. Cut to the same overhang as the plywood and drill
edge by ½" to cover the cementboard that will be used on the holes for the faucet if it will be deck-mounted (the one seen
walls). Screw the decking into position. If you will be mounting here is mounted to the tub deck). Screw cementboard to
the faucet on the deck, cut holes for the valve handles and the plywood deck over top rail and cross braces. Also attach
spout before screwing down that portion of the deck. cementboard to the platform aprons.
Proof 1
(continued)
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9 10
Attach wallcoverings in the installation area. Here, six courses Lay tile over the deck surface and the platform aprons using
of wall tile will be installed on the walls above the tub deck. A bullnose tile around the two outside edges. Tile on the inside
strip of cementboard the same width as the total tile height is edge of the platform does not need to be finished—it will be
attached to the wall as a backer for the tile. Then, water-resistant covered by the tub lip. Also install wall tiles.
drywall is installed to span from the cementboard to the ceiling
to create a smooth, paintable wall surface.
Grout the platform and walls with
11 sanded grout. Buff off excess grout with a
coarse rag. Apply a grout sealing product
after the grout has dried for several days
(this may be done after the tub is installed
if you do not want to wait).
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T SProof 1
464 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Install the tub. Attach the drain-waste-
12 overflow connection to the tub. Trowel
a ½" bed of mortar on the subfloor
where the tub bottom will sit (unless
manufacturer’s directions state otherwise).
Set the tub in place in the platform
opening, press down into the mortar, and
check for level. There should be a very
slight gap between tub lip bottom edge
and top of tile.
13 14
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Let the mortar bed dry and, working Apply a bead of tub-and-tile caulk in the seam between the tub lip and the tiled
through the open walls and under deck surface. Wet your finger and smooth the bead for a finished look.
the platform deck, connect the drain
tailpiece to the trap. A large access
panel lets you get at both the supply
and drain hook ups.
Proof 1
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B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T SProof 1
466 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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F R E E STA N DI NG T U B S
F reestanding tubs offer maximum versatility in
bathroom design because, theoretically, they can
be placed anywhere in the bathroom. They can even
pick from many different foot styles, including
ball feet, ornamental feet, and, of course, the
traditional claw feet. You can also outfit a clawfoot
be installed in an alcove, in place of an alcove tub. tub with a shower extension on the faucet body, a
However, because they are attractive from all sides, direct spray “rainwater” head, and a shower ring from
and one of the key benefits is total access, most which a shower curtain can be hung.
homeowners install freestanding tubs with some The clawfoot tub seen here is a salvaged, cast-
measure of floor space all around the tub. iron rolltop tub. Although the supply of vintage tubs
Another selling point is the amazing variety is dwindling, they are still not hard to find and in
among freestanding tubs. Options include the vast many cases you can get one for the price of hauling
array of clawfoot tubs and pedestal tubs in styles it away (no easy task). Often, the porcelain enamel
from modern to classical. Roll-top freestanding finish needs refurbishing, which is a job best done
tubs feature a rolled top lip that makes getting by a tub reglazing specialist. The installation process
into and out of the tub easy. These are often egg- is a fairly simple one. The hardest part is usually
shaped and deep, offering a comfortable soak after running new drain and supply lines under the floor,
a long day. Slipper tubs offer a more dramatic so if you can place the tub over existing lines, you
shape, like Cinderella’s ball slipper, with a high, greatly simplify the installation process.
sloped back that allows the bather to recline in Regardless of the tub you choose, check with
ultimate comfort. your local building inspector to help you determine
Clawfoot tubs are a category all their own. whether your floor has adequate structural strength
Although cast iron is the traditional material to safely support a freestanding tub. The inspector
for clawfoots, manufacturers also offer easier- may suggest (or require) that you have the potential
to-move acrylic and polymer options. You can location evaluated by a qualified structural engineer.
Tools & Materials ▸
Adjustable wrench Cordless drill and bits Hole saw
Plumber’s putty or silicone plumber’s grease Carpenter’s level Eye and ear protection
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Teflon tape
Prepping for a Clawfoot Tub ▸
The actual installation of a clawfoot tub is fairly basic. Success, though, relies on proper preparation so that the tub
is positioned just where you want it, and the supply and drain lines are correctly aligned with the tub. Place the tub
roughly where you want it and use a stud finder or other method to isolate the floor joists. Determine the location
for connections under the floor (new tubs usually come with a template) and mark them by drilling pilot holes all
the way through the subflooring. Install new drain and supply plumbing—this is a good time to call in a professional
plumber. Finally, lay the finish flooring, if it is not already in place, before installing the tub. Make sure the floor is as level
as possible.
Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A C L AW FOOT T U B
1
Position the tub exactly where you’d like it to rest, ideally over existing supply and drain lines. Install the feet first if they were not
preattached (inset photo).
2 3
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Mark locations for supply risers and drain tailpipe on the Install the drain-waste-overflow assembly according to
floor. Drill starter holes and double check below the floor to the manufacturer’s instructions. With a freestanding tub, it is
make sure floor joists will not be directly under the access often easiest to join the assembly parts working upward from
holes. Use a hole saw slightly wider than each pipe to drill the drainpipe connection in the floor. Install the drain flange in
access holes. Install supply lines and drainline. the tub, fastening it from the top into the drain shoe. Make the
connection to the drain pipe in the floor—if the kit comes with
a floor escutcheon that covers the drain connection, makeProof 1
sure it is in place before you attach the tailpipe to the T.
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4 5
Fasten the overflow cover to the overflow receiver with the Assemble the faucet according to the manufacturer’s
bolt or bolts that are provided. Be sure to position the rubber instructions. Most older clawfoot tubs have a two-valve faucet
gasket that came with the drain kit so it fits neatly against the with a gooseneck spigot that mounts directly to the wall of the
tub wall. Do not overtighten the fasteners. tub at the foot end. Many newer freestanding tubs utilize a
wall-mounted faucet.
6 7
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Mount the faucet body to the tub wall with the retainer nuts Attach the supply risers to the valve inlets for the faucet.
that thread onto the faucet valve stems. Put the supply pipe base escutcheons in place on the floor
over the supply line connections. Secure the risers into the
supply connections below the floor. Turn on the water supply
and test to make sure there are no leaks in any of the pipes or
fitting connections, including the drain and overflow.
Feet First ▸
Despite their great weight, it is always a good idea to anchor cast-iron tubs—even a small shift in position can cause
the drain or supply connections to fail. Older tubs often have screwholes in the bottoms of the feet so they may be
fastened to the floor once the hookups are made. Newer lighter-weight tubs generally use floor pins to stabilize the
tub. Some manufacturers recommend using rubber pads and epoxy under each foot, in conjunction with dowels or
mounting studs. Some tubs have self-leveling feet, with integral adjustment posts—check and follow the manufacturer’s
installation instructions.
Proof 1
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SL I DI NG T U B DOOR S Tools & Materials ▸
Tape measure Masonry bit
Pencil & marker for tile wall
C urtains on your bathtub shower are a hassle. If
you forget to tuck them inside the tub, water
flows freely onto your bathroom floor. If you forget to
Hacksaw
Miter box
Phillips screwdriver
Caulk gun
Level Masking tape
slide them closed, mildew sets up shop in the folds.
Drill Silicone sealant
And every time you brush against them they stick to
Center punch Tub door kit
your skin. Shower curtains certainly don’t add much
Utility knife blade Eye and ear protection
elegance or charm to a dream bath. Neither does a
deteriorated door. Clean up the look of your bathroom,
and even give it an extra touch of elegance, with a new
sliding tub door. resemble gold, brass, or chrome. Glass options are also
When shopping for a sliding tub door, you have a plentiful. You can choose between frosted or pebbled
choice of framed or frameless. A framed door is edged glass, clear, mirrored, tinted, or patterned glass. Doors
in metal. The metal framing is typically aluminum can be installed on ceramic tile walls or through a
but is available in many finishes, including those that fiberglass tub surround.
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T SProof 1
A sliding tub door in a metal frame gives the room a sleek, clean look and is just one of the available options.
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L SL I DI NG T U B DOOR S
1 2
Remove the existing door and inspect the walls. Use a Measure the distance between the finished walls along
utility knife blade to cut sealant from tile and metal surfaces. the top of the tub ledge. Refer to the manufacturer’s
Do not use a razor blade on fiberglass surfaces. Remove instructions for figuring the track dimensions. For the product
remaining sealant by scraping or pulling. Use a silicone sealant seen here, 3⁄16" is subtracted from the measurement to
remover to remove all residue. Remove shower curtain rods, if calculate the track dimensions.
present. Check the walls and tub ledge for plumb and level.
3 4
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Using a hacksaw and a miter box, carefully cut into the Place a wall channel against the wall with the longer
track to the proper dimension. Center the track on the bathtub side out and slide into place over the track so they overlap.
ledge with the taller side out and so the gaps are even at each Use a level to check the channel for plumb, and then mark
end. Tape into position with masking tape. the locations of the mounting holes on the wall with a marker.
Proof 1
Repeat for the other wall channel. Remove the track.
(continued)
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5 6
Drill mounting holes for the wall channel at the marked Apply a bead of silicone sealant along the joint between
locations. In ceramic tile, nick the surface of the tile with a the tub and the wall at the ends of the track. Apply a minimum
center punch, use a ¼" masonry bit to drill the hole, and then ¼" bead of sealant along the outside leg of the track underside.
insert the included wall anchors. For fiberglass surrounds, use
a 1⁄8" drill bit; wall anchors are not necessary.
7 8
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Position the track on the tub ledge and against the wall. At a location above the tops of the wall channels,
Attach the wall channels using the provided screws. Do not measure the distance between the walls. Refer to the
use caulk on the wall channels at this time. manufacturer’s instructions for calculating the header
dimensions. For the doors seen here, the header dimension is
the distance between the walls minus 1⁄16". Measure the header
and carefully cut it to length using a hacksaw and a miter box.
Slide the header down on top of the wall channels until seated.Proof 1
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9 10
Mount the rollers in the roller mounting holes. To begin, Carefully lift the inner panel by the sides and place the
use the second from the top roller mounting holes. Follow the rollers on the inner roller track. Roll the door toward the
manufacturer’s instructions for spacer or washer placement shower end of the tub. The edge of the panel should touch
and direction. both rubber bumpers. If it doesn’t, remove the door and move
the rollers to different holes. Drive the screws by hand to
prevent overtightening.
11 12
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Lift the outer panel by the sides with the towel bar facing Apply a bead of silicone sealant to the inside seam of
out from the tub. Place the outer rollers over the outer roller the wall and wall channel at both ends and to the U-shaped
track. Slide the door to the end opposite the shower end of the joint of the track and wall channels. Smooth the sealant with a
tub. If the door does not contact both bumpers, remove the fingertip dipped in water.
door and move the rollers to different mounting holes.
Proof 1
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PE DE STA L & CONSOL E SI N K S
P edestal and console sinks move in and out of
popularity more frequently than other types, but
even during the times that they aren’t particularly
Pedestal sinks are mounted in one of two ways.
Most inexpensive models are hung in much the same
way as wall-mounted sinks. The pedestal is actually
trendy they still find a place in many remodels installed after the sink is hung and its purpose is
because of their classic and adaptable styling. You’ll purely decorative. But other, higher-end pedestal
find them most frequently in small half baths or sinks have structural pedestals that bear the weight
powder rooms, where their modest footprints make of the sink. All console sinks are mounted to the wall,
them space-efficient options. Designers are also although the front legs offer additional support and
increasingly using these styles as his-and-her sinks for resistance to users leaning on the front of the sink.
bathrooms in which the sinks are meant to visually
dominate the design.
The primary drawback to pedestal sinks is that
Tools & Materials ▸
they don’t offer any storage. Their chief practical Pedestal sink Basin wrench
benefit is that they conceal plumbing some 2 × 4 lumber Silicone caulk
homeowners would prefer to keep out of sight. Water-resistant drywall Lag screws
Console sinks, with their two front legs and modest Ratchet wrench Studfinder
apron, offer some space underneath for rolling shelf Drill Eye and ear protection
units or a towel basket.
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
A console bathroom sink is a wall-mounted lavatory with A pedestal sink typically is hung on the wall. The primary
two front legs that provide back-up support. Many have a function of the pedestal is to conceal plumbing and provide
narrow apron to conceal the drain trap. visual appeal.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A PE DE STA L SI N K
1 2
Wall surface
shown cut away
for clarity
Install 2 × 4 blocking between the wall studs, Set the basin and pedestal in position and brace it with
behind the planned sink location. Cover the wall with 2 × 4s. Outline the top of the basin on the wall, and mark the
water-resistant drywall. base of the pedestal on the floor. Mark reference points on the
wall and floor through the mounting holes found on the back
of the sink and the bottom of the pedestal.
3 4 5
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Set aside the basin and pedestal. Attach the faucet, then set the sink Hook up the drain and supply fittings.
Drill pilot holes in the wall and floor at on the pedestal. Align the holes in the Caulk between the back of the sink and
the reference points, then reposition back of the sink with the pilot holes the wall when installation is finished.
the pedestal. Anchor the pedestal to the drilled in the wall, then drive lag screws
floor with lag screws. and washers into the wall brace using
a ratchet wrench. Do not overtighten
the screws.
Proof 1
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WA L L - MOU N T E D SI N K S
T here are many benefits to a wall-mounted sink
that, depending on your situation and needs, will
offset the inherent lack of storage space. In contrast
We’ve opted to illustrate the installation of just
such a sink in the instructions that follow. Keep in
mind that different manufacturers sometimes use very
to the footprint of a traditional vanity-mounted sink, different mounting procedures. In any case, the idea
wall-mounted units can save space on the sides and remains the same: strongly secure the sink to studs or
in front of the fixture. More importantly, they are an blocking, so that it is completely stable and will not fall.
essential addition to a Universal Design bathroom The most involved part of the installation process
where wheelchair accessibility is a key consideration. is usually rerouting water supply and drain lines as
It’s why these particular fixtures are sometimes called necessary. You should hire a licensed plumber for this
“roll-under” sinks. if you’re not comfortable with the work. Once the
All that practicality aside, early models at the plumbing is in place, the installation is quick and easy.
lower end of the price spectrum were somewhat
unattractive because their designs simply left the drain
tailpiece, trap, and supply shut-off valves in plain
sight. But there’s no need for you to settle for a less-
Tools & Materials ▸
than-handsome wall-mounted sink. Manufacturers Carpenter’s level Standard screwdriver
have developed two solutions to the problem of Adjustable wrenches Jigsaw
exposed plumbing. Some are designed with a bowl Pipe wrench Basin wrench
that conceals supply line shut-offs, replacing the Channel-type pliers Tape measure
trap with sleekly designed tailpieces and squared off Cordless power drill Hacksaw
trap bends. The other solution, and one more widely and bits 2 × 8 lumber
available, is a wall-mounted pedestal that covers the Tubing cutting Eye and ear protection
plumbing. Sinks with this feature are sometimes Phillips screwdriver
called “semi-pedestal.”
Although a wall-mounted sink
offers many benefits—accessibility to
wheelchair users among them—there’s
no need to sacrifice chic style for
that functionality.
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T SProof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A WA L L - MOU N T E D SI N K
Remove the existing sink if any.
1 Double 2 × 8 blocking Remove wall coverings as necessary to
install blocking for mounting the sink.
Reroute water supply and drain lines
as necessary, according to the sink
manufacturer’s directions. The sink in
2×4 this project required the centerpoints of
block the waste pipe be 21", and the supply
for
supply
lines 24¾" up from the finished floor. If
lines unsure of your plumbing skills or code
requirements, hire a professional plumber
24¾"
for this part of the project. Install blocking
between the studs for attaching the
21" mounting bracket for the sink. A doubled
2 × 8 is installed here. Have your plumbing
inspected, if required by your municipality,
before you install the drywall and finished
wall surface.
Drill guide holes for the mounting bolts
2 if your sink is a direct-mount model, as
this one is. Some wall-hung sinks are
hung from a mounting bracket. The bolts
used to hang this sink are threaded like
lag screws on one end, with a bolt end
that projects from the wall. The guide
holes should be spaced exactly as the
manufacturer specifies so they align with
the mounting holes in the back mounting
flange on the sink. Tip: Protect tile surfaces
with masking tape in the drilling areas to
avoid chip-out.
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Drive the threaded mounting bolts
3 (screw end first) into the guide holes. There
should be pilot holes (smaller than the guide
holes) driven into the blocking. To drive this
Doubled nuts
to drive bolt
hardware, spin a pair of nuts onto the bolt
into blocking end and turn the bolt closest to you with a
wrench. Drive the mounting bolt until the
end is projecting out from the wall by a little
more than 1½". Remove the nuts. Install the
pop-up drain in the sink , and then slide the
sink over the ends of the mounting bolts so
the mounting flange is flush against the wall.
You’ll want help for this. Thread the washers
and nuts onto the ends of the mounting
bolts and hand-tighten. Check to make sure
the sink is level and then tighten the nuts
with a socket or wrench, reaching up into the
void between the basin and the flange. Don’t
Proof 1
overtighten—you could crack the sink flange.
(continued)
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4 5
Have a helper hold the sink pedestal (in this model, a half- Remove the pedestal and drill the pilot holes for the
pedestal) in position against the underside of the sink. Mark pedestal-mounting bolts, which work much in the same way as
the edges of the pedestal on the wall covering as reference the sink-mounting bolts. Drill guide and pilot holes then drive
for installing the pedestal-mounting hardware. Remove the mounting bolts, leaving about 1¼" of the bolt end exposed.
the pedestal.
6 7
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Install the drain and drain tailpiece on the sink. Also Complete the drain connection by installing a P-trap
mount the faucet body to the sink deck if you have not done assembly that connects the tail piece and the trap arm. Also
so already. Also attach the drain trap arm to the drain stub out connect the drain pop-up rod that projects out of the tailpiece
in the wall and attach shutoff valves to the drain supply lines. to the pop-up plunger mechanism you’ve already installed.
You’ll find instructions for doing all of these jobs elsewhere in
this book.Proof 1
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8
Pedestal mounting hardware
Leak Finder ▸
Shutoff valves
Pop-up
plunger
Tailpiece
Drain
arm
To quickly and easily find an undersink leak, lay bright
white paper or paper towels under the pipes and
drain connections. Open the water supply valves
and run water in the sinks. It should be clear exactly
Make sure the shutoff valve fittings are tight and oriented where the water dripped from by the location of the
correctly, and then hook up the faucet supply risers to the drip on the paper.
shutoff valves. Turn on the water supply and test.
9 10
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Slide the pedestal into place on the mounting studs. Attach the towel bar to the sink by first pushing the well
Working through the access space under the sink, use a nuts into the holes on the underside of the sink rim. Set the bar
wrench to tighten the mounting nut over the washer on in place, and screw in the attachment screws on both sides,
the stud. Carefully tighten the nut until the pedestal is held just until snug.
securely in place. Be careful not to overtighten the nut.
Proof 1
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V E S SE L SI N K S
T he vessel sink harkens back to the days of
washstands and washbowls. Whether it’s round,
square, or oval, shallow or deep, the vessel sink offers
Tools & Materials ▸
great opportunity for creativity and proudly displays Pliers Pop-up drain
its style. Vessel sinks are a perfect choice for a powder Wrench P-trap and drain kit
room, where they will have high visibility. Vanity or countertop Faucet
Most vessel sinks can be installed on any flat Vessel sink Eye and ear protection
surface—from a granite countertop to a wall-mounted
vanity to an antique dresser. Some sinks are designed
to contact the mounting surface only at the drain accommodate the height of the vessel. To minimize
flange. Others are made to be partially embedded in splashing, spouts should direct flow to the center of
the surface. Take care to follow the manufacturer’s the vessel, not down the side. Make sure your faucet
instructions for cutting holes for sinks and faucets. is compatible with your vessel choice. Look for a
A beautiful vessel sink demands an equally centerset or single-handle model if you’ll be custom
attractive faucet. Select a tall spout mounted on the drilling the countertop—you only need to drill one
countertop or vanity top or a wall-mounted spout to faucet hole.
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Vessel sinks are available in countless styles of materials, shapes, and sizes. Their one commonality is that they all need to be
installed on a flat surface.Proof 1
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■ V E S SE L SI N K OP T IONS
This glass vessel sink embedded in a “floating” glass Vessel sinks come in many forms, including the dramatic
countertop is a stunning contrast to the strong and attractive sloped version here. The modern style fits perfectly with a
wood frame anchoring it to the wall. custom glass counter and sophisticated glass wall tiles.
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Vessel sinks don’t have to be shaped like a bowl. This Vitreous china with a glazed enamel finish is an economical
rectangular tray sink is a cool alternative to a more common and durable choice for a vessel sink (although it is less durable
bowl shape and accents the chic, light wood vanity and than stone). Because of the flexibility of both the material
cabinets in the room. and the glaze, the design options are virtually unlimited with
vitreous china.
Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A V E S SE L SI N K
1 2
Mounting
stud
Inlet hoses
Secure the vanity cabinet or other countertop that you’ll be Begin hooking up the faucet. Insert the brass mounting
using to mount the vessel sink. stud into the threaded hole in the faucet base with the
slotted end facing out. Hand tighten, and then use a slotted
screwdriver to tighten another half turn. Insert the inlet hoses
into the faucet body and hand tighten. Use an adjustable
wrench to tighten another half turn. Do not overtighten.
3 4
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Stud O-ring
Riser ring
Metal plate
Stud nut Gasket
Place the O-ring on top of the riser ring over the faucet To install the sink and pop-up drain, first place the
cutout in the countertop. From underneath, slide the rubber small metal ring between two O-rings and place over the
gasket and the metal plate over the mounting stud. Thread the drain cutout.
mounting stud nut onto the mounting stud and hand tighten.
Use an adjustable wrench to tighten another half turn.Proof 1
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5 6
Place the vessel bowl on top of the O-rings. In this Put the small rubber gasket over the drain hole in the
installation, the vessel is not bonded to the countertop. vessel. From the top, push the pop-up assembly through the
drain hole.
7 8
Slip nut
Gasket
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Tailpiece
Drain arm
Mounting nut
Escutcheon
Drum
From underneath, push the large rubber gasket onto the Install the drum trap. Loosen the rings on the top and
threaded portion of the pop-up assembly. Thread the nut onto outlet of the drum trap. Slide the drum trap top hole over the
the pop-up assembly and tighten. Use an adjustable wrench tailpiece. Slide the drain arm into the side outlet, with the flat
or basin wrench to tighten an additional half turn. Thread the side of the rubber gasket facing away from the trap. Insert the
tailpiece onto the pop-up assembly. drain arm into the wall outlet. Hand tighten the rings.
Proof 1
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BI DE T S Tools & Materials ▸
Tape measure Tubing cutter
Drill Plumber’s putty
B idets are becoming ever more popular in the
United States. Maybe that’s because they can
give a dream bath that European flare so many of us
Adjustable wrench
Level
Thread tape
Bidet
Silicone sealant Bidet faucet
find alluring. Go to Europe, Asia, or South America
(2) 3⁄8" shut-off valves Marker
and you’ll see how much people can come to rely on
(2) 3⁄8" supply lines Eye and ear protection
bidets. Some fans of this bathroom fixture think those
P-trap
who don’t use bidets are unhygienic.
With the trend moving toward larger and more
luxurious bathrooms, many Americans are becoming
intrigued by this personal hygiene appliance. The
standard model features hot and cold faucets, and Installing a bidet is very much like installing a
either a movable nozzle located by the faucet handles sink. The only difference is that the bidet can have
or a vertical sprayer located near the front of the the waste line plumbed below the floor, like a shower.
bowl. Most bidets are outfitted with a pop-up drain. But like sinks, bidets may have single or multiple
You can also buy a combination toilet and bidet if deck holes for faucets, so be certain to purchase
space is an issue. compatible components.
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
A bidet is a useful companion to a toilet, and it is a luxury item you and your family will appreciate. For people with limited
mobility, a bidet is an aide to independent personal sanitation.Proof 1
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Bidet faucet
Pop-up
Stopper lift rod
To wall
drain
Option:
Wall drain arm
Pop-up
mechanism
Option: To floor drain
Floor drain arm
Bidet drains have more in common with sink drains than with toilet drains. Some even attach to a drain arm in the wall,
with a P-trap that fits between the fixture drain tailpiece and the arm. Other bidets drain into a floor drain outlet with a trap that’s
situated between the tailpiece and the branch drain line.
Overflow
Stool (basin)
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Bidet faucet
Stopper
Drain line
Lift rod Bolts
Trap
A bidet requires a special faucet that allows you to mix hot You can get all the features of a bidet on your existing
and cold water to a temperature you find comfortable. It has a toilet with a number of aftermarket bidet seats. These seats
third knob to control the water pressure. The aerator and spout feature heaters, sprayers, and dryers in basic or deluxe
pivot to allow you to adjust the spray to a comfortable height. versions. Installation takes less than an hour and no additional
space is needed.
Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A BI DE T
1 2
Rough-in the supply and drain lines according to the Apply a coil of plumber’s putty around the underside of
manufacturer’s specifications. If you do not have experience the drain flange. Insert the flange in the drain hole, place the
installing home plumbing, hire a plumber for this part gasket and washer, and then thread the nut onto the flange.
of the job. Apply a coil of plumber’s putty to the base of Do not fully tighten.
the bidet faucet, and then insert the faucet body into the
mounting holes. Thread the washers and locknut onto the
faucet body shank and hand tighten. Remove any plumber’s
putty squeeze out.
3 4
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Install the pop-up drain apparatus according to the Place the bidet in its final location, checking that supply
manufacturer’s instructions. and drain lines will be in alignment. Mark the locations of the
two side-mounting holes through the predrilled holes on the
stool and onto the floor.Proof 1
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5 6
Remove the bidet and drill 3⁄16" pilot holes at the marks on Connect the water supply risers to the bidet faucet using
the floor. Drive the floor bolts (included with the bidet basin) compression unions. Make sure to hook the hot and cold risers
into the holes. Position the bidet so the floor bolts fit into the up to the correct ports on the faucet.
bolt holes in the base. Tighten nuts onto the floor bolts.
7 8
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Hook up the drain line by attaching the P-trap to the Remove the aerator so any debris in the supply line will
drain tailpiece. The trap is then attached to a branch drain clear and then turn on the water and open both faucets. Check
line coming out of the wall or floor in the same manner as for leaks in lines and fix, if found. Assemble the bolt caps and
a sink drain. thread them onto the floor bolts. Note: Do not dispose of paper
in the bidet—return to the toilet to dry off after using the bidet
for cleaning.
Proof 1
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V E N T FA NS
F or most of us, a dream bathroom does not include
foggy mirrors or unpleasant odors. Opening a
window, if your bathroom is equipped with one, can
Soffit venting involves routing the duct to a soffit
(roof overhang) instead of through the roof. Check
with the vent manufacturer for instructions for
help, but vent fans do the best job of clearing the air. soffit venting.
Most vent fans are installed in the center of the To prevent moisture damage, always terminate
bathroom ceiling or over the toilet area. A fan installed the vent outside your home—never into your attic
over the tub or shower area must be GFCI protected or basement.
and rated for use in wet areas. You can usually wire a You can install a vent fan while the framing is
fan with a light fixture into a main bathroom electrical exposed or as a retrofit, as shown in this project.
circuit, but units with built-in heat lamps or blowers
require separate circuits.
If the fan you choose doesn’t come with a
mounting kit, purchase one separately. A mounting kit Tools & Materials ▸
should include a vent hose (duct), a vent tailpiece, and
an exterior vent cover. Eye and ear protection Drill
Venting instructions vary among manufacturers, Flexible dryer vent duct Hammer
but the most common options are attic venting and Phillips and straight screwdrivers Nails
soffit venting. Attic venting routes fan ductwork into Jigsaw or drywall saw Wire connectors
the attic and out through the roof. Always insulate Reciprocating saw Dryer vent clamps
ducting in this application to keep condensation from Electrical tester Vent cover
forming and running down into the motor. Carefully Exhaust fan unit Drywall
install flashing around the outside vent cover to Drywall screws 4" hole saw
prevent roof leaks.
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Fan rating
(cubic feet
per minute)
Sone
rating
A combination light/vent fan is a great product in powder rooms and smaller baths that to do not generate excessive amounts
of air moisture. In larger baths with tubs and showers, install a dedicated vent fan with a CFM rating that’s at least 5 CFM higher
than the total square footage of the bathroom (inset photo).Proof 1
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■ HOW TO R E PL AC E A N OV E R H E A D L IG H T W I T H A L IG H T/ FA N
1 2
Shut off power to the ceiling light at the electrical service Test the wire connections with a current tester to make
panel. Remove the globe and bulb from the overhead ceiling sure they are not live, and then disconnect the wires and
light, and then disconnect the mounting screws that hold the remove the light fixture. Cap the wire ends.
light fixture to the ceiling box.
3 4
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Joist bay
Duct location
Plan your exhaust pipe route. In most cases, this means Remove ceiling covering in the fan unit installation area
determining the shortest distance between the fan and the and between the joists at the end of the run, next to the wall.
outdoors. If the room is located at the top living level, venting You’ll need at least 18" of access. If you are running rigid vent
through the roof is usually smartest. On lower levels and in pipe or the joist bay is insulated, you’ll need to remove ceiling
basements, you’ll need to go through an exterior wall. If you material between the joists for the entire run. Make cuts on
need to route through a wall in a room with a finished ceiling, the centerlines of the joists.
choose a route that runs through a single ceiling joist bay.
Proof 1
(continued)
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5 6
Insert flexible vent tubing into one of the ceiling openings Draw a 4"-dia. circle on the wall framing at the end of the
and expand it so the free end reaches to the ceiling opening at joist bay, marking the exit point for the duct. Choose a long,
the wall. A fish tape for running cable through walls can be a ¼"-dia. drill bit and drill a hole at the center of the circle. Drill
useful aid for extending the tubing. all the way through the wall so the bit exits on the exterior
side. This will mark your hole location outside.
7 8
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
On the exterior, draw a 4"-dia. circle centered on the exit Insert the vent cover assembly into the opening,
point of the drill bit. Cut out the opening for the vent cover with following the manufacturer’s directions for fastening and
a reciprocating saw or a 4" hole saw. sealing it to the house.Proof 1
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9 10
Attach the end of the vent tubing to the outlet on the Nail the housing for the light/fan unit to the ceiling
vent cover unit and secure it with a large pipe clamp. joist so the bottom edges of the housing are flush with the
ceiling surface.
11 12
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Make the wiring connections in the housing box Patch and paint the wall and ceiling in the project area.
according to the manufacturer’s instructions. In just about Mount the light (the model we installed plugs into a receptacle
every case you should be able to use the existing wires from in the fan box), grille, globe, and any other fixture parts.
the original light switch. Once you have connected the wires,
restore the power and test the fan.
Proof 1
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TOI L E T E NC LOSU R E
O ne of the best ways to make a busy family
bathroom more usable is to enclose the toilet in
a room of its own. Toilet enclosures—originally called
“water closets” after the cistern they enclosed—make
a privacy compartment within the bathroom. This
allows one person to shower while the other uses the
toilet. It also effectively hides the fixture that most
people think is the sore thumb of the bathroom.
Although toilet enclosures are basic structures
comprising framed walls and a prehung door, they
must be built to maintain adequate spacing around the A full enclosure with a door offers the maximum in privacy,
toilet for maximum comfort and to meet local codes. but it may be a more extreme solution than you require. A
As a general rule of thumb, you want to leave at least simple partition wall next to the toilet creates a sense of
15 inches from the center of the toilet bowl to the wall privacy without any claustrophobia.
surface on either side, and at least 21 inches from the
front of the bowl to the door. You may also want to add
baffles or soundproofing inside the walls, to make the
Tools & Materials ▸
space as private as possible. Prehung door unit Circular saw
The enclosure shown here includes a combination Hammer Drill
lighting/ventilation fixture. Both are absolute musts 16d nails Drywall
for appropriate hygiene and comfort, even if they are Screwdriver Handsaw
not mandated by local codes. (A window can serve 2 × 4 lumber Utility knife
the ventilation function, but you’ll still need to install Drywall tape Wall compound
lighting for nighttime use.) Prehung door Interior door lockset
When it comes to toilet enclosures, more room Wood shims Door trim
is always better. If you can dedicate extra space to Quarter-round molding Silicone caulk
the enclosure, you’ll not only make the space more Stud finder Fiberglass insulation
comfortable, you’ll be able to add nice finishing Level Eye and ear protection
touches such as a magazine rack or shelves for candles.
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
■ HOW TO BU I L D A TOI L E T E NC L OSU R E
1 2
Carefully plan out the enclosure. Sketch your plans with Run wiring and ducting for lighting and ventilation as necessary.
exact dimensions to ensure that you allow proper space Install a box for an overhead fixture and run wire for the switch.
between toilet and walls, and to ensure door swing won’t We installed a combination light/vent fan (see pages 488 to 491)
impede the shower, vanity drawers, or other fixtures. connected to an interior wall switch placed just on the latch-sideProof 1
of the enclosure wall. The fixture can be run off the light switch
circuit for the entire bathroom if that circuit has the capacity.
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3 4
Check existing connection walls for plumb and square. Secure sole plates to the floor. Plates installed over
Cut the sole and top plates accordingly, compensating as resilient flooring as shown here, can be nailed through to
needed for any variances. Place top and sole plates side by subfloor. When installing over a tile floor, use a masonry bit
side and mark stud locations, 16” on center. to drill pilot holes and then screw through to subfloor. (Over
mosaic floors, it’s best to remove the tiles from under the sole
plate and secure the plate directly to subfloor.)
5 6
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Use a stud finder to locate ceiling joists, and then nail the top plates into place. Frame the doorway with header,
Frame out the walls by toenailing studs between top and sole plates as marked. cripple studs, and jack studs (you should
Frame L-corner for walls, as shown (inset). purchase your prehung door first, so
that you can double-check the opening
Proof 1
measurements against the actual
door unit). (continued)
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7 8
Hang drywall on the framed walls, inside and out. The Position the prehung door in place. Check that it is
enclosure here was clad with standard drywall rather than oriented correctly, to open out from the enclosure and
greenboard, because the walls won’t be subjected to any against a wall, rather than blocking the central space or
direct moisture contact. If the enclosure abuts a shower or opening against the vanity.
bath, use greenboard or cementboard.
9 10
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Shim all around the jamb (specifically, behind hinges and Saw the shims off flush. Measure, cut, and nail the trim for
lockset location) until the door unit is plumb and square in the the door in place. Putty and sand over the nail heads on jambsProof 1
opening, and the door opens smoothly. Nail through the door and casework.
jambs into the framing at the shim points.
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Use the Wall Cavity ▸ 11
Because the partition wall you’ve built is essentially
empty, it is a good candidate for installing niche
fittings that are recessed into the wall. A recessed
toilet tissue holder is one easy-to-install fitting. Space
will be fairly tight in your enclosure, so using the wall
space makes a lot of sense. A wall-niche magazine
rack or niche shelving are just two additional ways Finish the drywall surfaces with tape and joint compound.
you may use the wall cavity space. Work as neatly as you can to minimize sanding. Seal the new
drywall with drywall primer before you paint.
12 13
B AT H R O O M P R OJ E C T S
Paint the enclosure walls and add any additional elements, Attach base quarter-round molding on bottom of walls,
including paper holders, grab bars, and shelves or cabinets. inside and out (or cove molding if you prefer). Apply a coat
Proof 1
The wall area behind the toilet tank is a good spot for installing of silicone caulk to the bottom of molding before nailing it
shallow shelving, but keep it at least 3 ft. above the tank lid. in place.
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ROOM ADDITION PROJECTSProof 1
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ROOM ADDITION
PROJEC T S
A t the very far end of the scale of home-remodeling
projects is the construction of a room addition
that expands the actual footprint of the house itself.
It is one of the most complicated projects a DIYer can
hope to undertake—the steps are virtually the same as
are used for the construction of an entire home, just
on a smaller scale.
While some very skilled DIYers do tackle this kind
of sophisticated home-improvement project, most
homeowners will want to do some parts of this job,
such as the finishing work, but will leave some of the
major work to professional contractors. Few DIYers,
for example, have the resources to excavate the soil
out of large spaces in order to pour foundations.
This final chapter of The Book of Home
Improvement covers representative stages in the
complete construction of a room addition. If you
already have a lot of DIY experience and plenty of
help, it might be possible to plan, build, and finish
a small room addition based on just the information
in this chapter. But it’s much more likely that this
chapter will serve as a helpful overview of the process,
one you can use to guide your project as you consult
other sources of information and work with a variety of
contractors to complete the job.
■ IN THIS CHAPTER:
• Evaluating Your Site
• Drawing Construction Plans
• Site Preparation
• Pouring a Footing
• Tying into an Existing Foundation
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
• Laying a Concrete Block Foundation
• Framing the Floor
• Framing a Wall
• Constructing the Addition’s Roof
• Installing Asphalt Shingles
• Sheathing Exterior Walls
• Building Wrap
• Installing Siding
• Soffits, Fascia & Gutters
• Installing Windows
• Installing an Entry Door
Proof 1
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E VA LUAT I NG YOU R SI T E
T he features of your property play almost as large
a part in the planning and design process as the
features of your house. Local codes and regulations
non-dwelling structure to be close to the property line,
converting it to a living space may suddenly violate the
setback rules for dwellings.
controlling the size of structures, the maximum Easements. You’ll also need to take into account
percentage of a lot that can be built upon, and the any easements on your property. All easements
minimum setback requirements are all important effectively do the same thing: they limit building
determining factors in most addition plans. Along with on parts of your property so that those parts can
regulations, your property’s topography and exposure be accessed by other parties. Common easements
should influence the building site. For instance, a include “easements in gross” that allow power, water,
yard that slopes severely or has extremely irregular and cable companies critical access to utilities on, or
terrain may present challenges to building a room crossing, your property. Appurtenances are “easements
addition foundation. In reviewing your property you in common,” such as a driveway that crosses your
also need to check with the local utility companies to property so that a neighbor can get to theirs. These,
determine and mark the location of any buried utilities like many property easements you’ll encounter,
(call 811). It’s far easier to identify these lines prior to are obvious. Others are not. That’s why you should
construction than it is to repair a ruptured main. check your deed and title for descriptions of property
Setback. The setback is the minimum distance easements before you settle on the final location for
that must be maintained between your structure and your addition.
your property line. Setbacks are established for a Code Limitations. Building codes and
number of reasons including safety and clear access regulations normally limit how far up you can build,
to public thoroughfares. Setbacks obviously affect as well as how far out. A local code may allow for
bump-outs and other types of additions that increase an attic conversion that adds dormers, but restricts
the footprint of your structure, but they can also a second-story addition that raises the height of
impact garage conversions. If the rules allow for a exterior walls.
Property line Garden Setback
Shed
Utility
lines
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
A plan view of your yard that includes all permanent A severe slope in back of this house makes adding on a
structures will help you determine which codes and challenge requiring specialized pier-and-post foundations.Proof 1
regulations will impact your design.
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Assessing Your Soil ▸
An important part of evaluating the suitability of your laying the foundation. You’ll need to spend more time
property for a room addition is determining if your soil is and effort on the drainage system to direct water well
going to present any challenges in laying the foundation. away from the area of the foundation.
Different types of soil can actually add to construction • Sand: Sandy soil is subject to shifting and movement,
costs because of the extra work required in excavating or but is only a serious problem when the sand content
reinforcing the foundation. That said, it’s always easier to is very high, such as along a river or in a coastal
deal preemptively with soil issues as they occur than to fix area. If you suspect your soil has an unusually high
the many and severe problems unstable soil can create. sand content, get a soil analysis. This may lead you
The first place to go for information on the soil in your to use a different type of foundation for the addition,
area is your county extension service. They’ll be able to such as deep piers rather than a poured concrete
give you information about the type of soil in your region. wall foundation.
If you don’t have a local office, you can contact the United • Muck: When soil contains large sections of
States Department of Agriculture and request a soil map decomposing organic matter, or “muck,” the soil base
for your area. The type of soil largely determines what can become quite unstable. If built on, the soil may
problems may occur and what preventative steps are compress over time, causing detrimental settling in
called for. the years to come. If you encounter a lot of muck in
excavating a foundation, the most reliable solution
• Clay: Clay shrinks and expands during dry and wet is to excavate all of it and replace it with more stable
periods more than other soils do. If you have high soil. Although this may seem excessive, it’s a matter
clay content in your soil, anticipate extra work in of heading off far worse problems down the road.
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Determining what type of soil you’ll be dealing with in excavating for a foundation is crucial to planning for an
addition. Common types include gravel and sandy gravel (left), sandy (middle), and clay/silt (right).
Proof 1
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DR AW I NG CONST RUC T ION PL A NS
B uilding plans are the roadmap for the journey that
leads from that vision of a new and wonderful space
in your head to the reality that you’ll live with after
This exercise also gives you the chance to test
furniture placement ideas. Cut top-view silhouettes
out of construction paper or other thick stock, in
the construction is completed. How closely the reality shapes representing existing furniture you want to
matches the vision depends on how detailed, concise, incorporate into the space or pieces you intend to buy.
and comprehensive your addition building plans are. This is a great way to work out details of the floor plan,
The best way to begin the process is to sketch out especially fixture and furniture placements that would
a preliminary floor plan yourself. This is easily done present significant problems if discovered later in the
with a few basic drafting supplies: a T-square or ruler, construction process.
an adjustable triangle, grid paper, and a sharp pencil. If you’re more inclined to use a mouse than a
Take measurements of the existing space that will pencil, you can try drafting your floor plan in one of
connect to the addition, or that will be converted, and the many computer-aided design (CAD) programs
decide on the measurements of the new space. Now created just for homeowners. Unless you’ve had
you can rough out the new space on the grid paper. experience with these types of programs, you’ll have
Use a standard scale of ¼ inch, ½ inch, or 1 inch to spend some time learning the software. However,
to 1 foot and start from the exterior walls. Add the working with software offers some unique and useful
locations of doors (marking arcs for the door swing), features such as calculating the amount of materials
windows, electrical outlets, plumbing fixtures, and you’ll need for the space you design.
other permanent features such as window seats. Think Ultimately, no matter how good your drafting
about where plumbing pipes and heating ducts will go. skills may be, you’ll probably need professionally
Finally, add interior walls. drawn plans to submit to the building department.
One of the advantages to sketching your own Some municipalities allow homeowners to submit
preliminary drawings is that you can play with the plans they’ve drawn, but most require professionally
dimensions, easily changing floor plan configurations drafted blueprints and building plans. Although some
and features to see which suits best. Concerned about contractors offer design services, for large, complex
light? Sketch in a bay or bow window. Suddenly realize projects use an architect to draft your plans. You’ll
the space is rather long and narrow? Break it up with a want to select someone who is familiar with the local
framed wall and doorway. building department and community.
Drawing preliminary floor plans
is your chance to exercise your creativity,
try different features and configurations,
and get a sense of what the new space
will look and feel like.
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTSProof 1
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One of the other benefits of using an architect sometimes include cutaway side views,
to create your plans is that he or she will also be able depending on the requirements of the building
to make suggestions on structural issues you may not department and the type of addition or
have considered. conversion you’re proposing.
Whoever drafts the plans will need to include • A materials list is included to show the building
the basic elements required by building departments. authorities that the construction will use only
These usually entail blueprints that incorporate a site materials that conform to code. (It does not need
plan, floor plans, elevation drawings where applicable, to list quantities.)
and a materials list.
As a collection of highly detailed drawings,
• Site plans show the addition in relation to the the blueprints form specific instructions that you,
existing property, structures, and surrounding the builder, and other professionals will follow in
areas. These lay out important dimensions such as constructing the addition. That’s why you’ll need
the lot size, distance from property setback lines multiple copies of the blueprints. The building
and the position of the structure in relation to department usually requires that two or more copies
existing utilities. be submitted with the permit application, and you’ll
• Floor plans are extremely accurate dimensional want contractors and subcontractors to have copies
overviews that clearly show all relevant details depending on how involved they are (i.e., a plumber
such as exact location and dimensions of walls, installing lines and fixtures for a kitchen and bath).
windows, doors, plumbing, and electrical fixtures. Be sure to forward revised blueprints to everyone
• Elevation drawings show the proposed whenever changes are made after the initial blueprints
addition from all sides. Elevation drawings are drafted.
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
A complete set of plans and blueprints drawn by a professional is the gold standard of home design and it will impress your
local permit-issuing authorities. But a DIY package can be effective as long as it is put together neatly and with care and includes all
of the required elements.
Proof 1
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SI T E PR E PA R AT ION
B efore the construction activity gets underway in
earnest you should make some site preparations to
ensure reasonable access to the work area, as well as
Remove landscape features as necessary
to make runs in parallel construction. Completing
a room addition that increases the footprint of your
to protect your house and grounds from the inevitable house usually requires that you relocate or remove
stresses of a major construction project. Readying your a landscape feature or two. If a tree or shrub is
building site entails moving features and fixtures that too large to be moved, you can either remove it,
are within the borders of the actual job site or the path protect it—such as wrapping the trunk of a tree
workers will use to move materials, equipment, and in used tires—or relocate it. You can actually plan
building waste in and out of the work area. the relocation of a tree or large bush as part of the
Start by moving the manmade structures. excavation process; a backhoe can do in minutes
These include outdoor furnishings such as patio tables what might take hours or even days to accomplish
and chairs, umbrellas, planters, playsets and sandboxes, by hand. When considering the plants on your
statuary, and garden ornaments. Prevent any chance lot, begin by looking upward. The altered roofline
of damage by storing these far from the work site, of a room addition or attic conversion may run
ideally in a protected space such as a garage or shed. In right into a large tree branch. It’s wise to remedy
some cases, providing access to the worksite requires the situation before, rather than in the middle
removing a fence—temporarily at least. of construction.
How to Limb a Tree ▸
The best tool for pruning is a telephone. Use it to call an branch meets the trunk. The undercut ensures the
arborist and have them assess the tree and make the bark doesn’t peel off as the branch drops.
appropriate cuts. If you do decide to go it alone, be careful, • Complete the cut from the top to remove the bulk of
and follow these basic rules: the branch.
• Make a final cut flush with the outside of the branch
• Never cut away more than ⁄3 of the tree’s branches.
1
bark collar. Do not cut into the collar.
• Start with a shallow undercut several inches away • Leave the wound to heal itself. Don’t paint it or add
from the branch bark collar—the bulge where the any kind of sealant or preservative.
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Start by undercutting from Finish the cut from above—this Trim the stub from the limb so
beneath the limb with your bow saw keeps the bark from tearing when it’s flush with the branch collar.
or chain saw. the limb breaks loose.Proof 1
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Mark underground utilities such as gas and
water lines prior to beginning any project that involves
digging. Even if lines are indicated on your original
plan drawings or site survey, contact the local utilities
(call 811) and have them come out to flag the exact
location of all lines that are anywhere near the building
site. Technicians from the utilities will visit your site
and identify the location of underground lines for free.
Mark your property boundaries, whether or
not you are expanding outward. Even a small attic
conversion will mean a lot of traffic through your yard,
with a high potential that pallets of materials will be
stationed temporarily on the ground. Marking property
lines helps ensure that neither you nor your workers
causes any damage to your neighbor’s property.
Prepare the interior of the work site,
especially if there will be substantial work done inside,
as with an attic conversion. Line the pathway in and
out of the house by taping down heavy-duty kraft
paper from the work area to the nearest exit. You’ll also
want to partition off any area or room in the house
that might be affected by work debris such as dust
from sanding drywall joints. Use double layers of thick
plastic sheeting to separate the worksite from other Have all utility lines flagged and marked with spray paint
areas in the home. before you dig. Utility companies provide this service free of
charge. There is now a national toll-free number in the United
States you can call to get referrals for free flagging of utility
lines (call 811).
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Erect temporary walls to create barriers between the work Clear the area around the building site to create a
area and the rest of your house. Heavy duty plastic sheeting is staging ground for building materials and temporary storage
best for this. for excavated dirt. Arrange to have dirt removed as soon as
possible. A temporary fence such as a snow fence is required
Proof 1
around excavation areas by some codes.
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POU R I NG A FOOT I NG
A n addition foundation is laid in stages, each stage
building on the previous one. The process starts
with excavation of the foundation hole and leveling
With the footing in place, forms are positioned or, if
you’re laying a concrete block wall, that process is begun.
In either case, the first step is tying into the existing
of the grade on which the foundation will stand. foundation, usually with rebar “pins” that are affixed in
Then the trench for the footing—the solid base for holes drilled into the existing foundation. The addition’s
everything that comes after—is dug, and the footing is foundation walls are reinforced throughout, and the floor
laid. Finally, the walls are laid or poured and the floor of the crawlspace or basement is completed with a vapor
constructed in preparation for the main structure of barrier and, in the case of a basement, a slab. Finally, the
the addition. If the foundation is developed correctly, floor is built, setting the stage on which the rest of the
the rest of the addition will mesh fluidly with, and last room addition will take shape.
as long as, the existing structure.
The footing is the least visible part of the
whole structure, but it’s an essential underpinning
nonetheless. The footing trench is marked using
Tools & Materials ▸
a plumb line in reference to the corners defined Sledgehammer Spade or square-edged shovel
by your original string lines. The trench needs to Hammer Bolsters or bricks
accommodate a footing that’s typically twice as wide Cordless drill No. 4 rebar
as the wall that stands on it, and twice as deep as the 2 × 4s Steel stakes
wall is wide. The footing can be poured into a cleanly Vegetable oil Eye and ear protection
cut trench or, if the soil is not that stable, form boards Metal tie wires
can be used.
A concrete footing provides a flat,
sturdy surface on which you can stack
concrete block foundation walls or pour
concrete walls.
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTSProof 1
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■ HOW TO PR E PA R E A FOOT I NG T R E NC H
1 2 3
Dig the trench to the plan-specified Frame the top of the trench with Reinforce the footing with No. 4
depth and width. Use a square-end 2 × 4 form lumber. Drive stakes next to rebar. Set the rebar on bricks, stones, or
spade to smooth and square the sides the 2 × 4 form boards and attach the use rebar bolsters to raise the rods off
of the trench. Thoroughly compact the boards to the stakes (the round steel the bottom of the trench.
floor of the trench with a tamper. stakes seen here are predrilled for deck
screws). Level the form boards side-to-
side and along their lengths.
4 5
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Bind the rebar with metal tie wires to keep the parallel rods Drive sections of rebar, at least 24" long, into the ground
from separating when the concrete is poured. Installing a vertically, every 4' and at least 1' from corners. Position the
few spacers between rods to keep them separated is also a vertical rebar so it will fall in the void areas of concrete blocks.
Proof 1
good idea. Fill the forms with concrete.
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T Y I NG I N TO A N E X I ST I NG FOU N DAT ION
C onnecting a new foundation for an addition onto
the existing house foundation is an engineering
requirement. If you don’t physically couple the two
rebar ties to full lengths of rebar that are installed
to reinforce the new foundation when you set up
the forms.
foundations, sooner or later you may end up with two This technique was developed for poured
separate buildings. By linking the two foundations you foundations, but can also be used with other types.
take a big step toward ensuring that the construction When laying a new foundation of concrete block
is structurally sound. walls, you can either drill the end blocks to accept
The traditional technique for tying in the new the epoxied pins, or you can use special blocks with
foundation to the old is to drill holes in the existing cavities meant just for this purpose. As you add each
mating wall, insert rebar “pins” 6 inches to 8 inches course and slip the end blocks onto the pins, tie them
deep, securing them in the concrete with epoxy to rebar rods positioned vertically through the holes in
glue. Then it’s just a matter of grafting the exposed the blocks, and fill the holes with concrete.
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Tie rods cut from No. 4 rebar, usually around 8 to 10" in length, are inserted into holes drilled into the foundation wall and then
secured with epoxy glue. The free ends of the tie rods are bound to full-length rebar rods with tie wire.Proof 1
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Tie-in Challenges ▸
In some situations, the traditional method of tying a new
foundation wall to an existing one isn’t going to work. For
instance, if your new foundation wall abuts a concrete
block foundation, the existing foundation may be hollow
at the points you want to drive the rebar in and set it.
If this is the case, you’ll have to use one of the many
masonry fasteners available (after consulting your local
building department for code restrictions, of course).
One example is a vertical ladder of fastener strips that
are screwed into the existing wall with masonry screws,
and locked into the new wall by means of arms that
project horizontally from the mounting strips. You’ll find
other types of wall ties suited to different situations at
masonry supply stores. As a last resort—and only if code
allows—you can line the joint between the two walls with
waterproof expansion material just as you would a large
concrete slab. Once the new wall is in place, the joint
will tolerate a certain amount of movement while still
maintaining a waterproof seal.
■ T Y I NG I N TO CONC R E T E
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Use a corded hammer drill with a ½" or 5⁄8" masonry bit to drill access holes for Use injectable two-part epoxy glue
the No. 4 rebar tie rods. Drilling concrete can be a slow job, but do not get impatient to secure the ends of the rebar tie rods
and lean too hard on the drill—let the bit do the work. into the holes drilled in your existing
foundation wall. Make sure the concrete
dust is all cleared from the hole before
injecting glue and inserting rods.
Proof 1
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L AY I NG A CONC R E T E BLOC K FOU N DAT ION
B uilding a concrete block foundation wall is a
project even the unskilled home handyman can
tackle, because the skills needed are minimal and can
will become difficult to work with. If you’re having
problems, don’t hesitate to mix a new batch of mortar—
it should be just stiff enough so that it’s not runny. Toss
be honed through practice. The chief requirement in old mortar down the cavities of the wall. Beyond that,
laying this type of foundation is careful attention to follow the steps here and you’ll build a sound, plumb
detail, beginning with the measurements. and level foundation for your room addition.
Although it may seem counterintuitive, the best
way to measure for a concrete block wall is from the top
down. If you’ve laid out your string lines correctly, you’ve
Tools & Materials ▸
already determined the top-of-foundation height; ideally Eye and ear protection Level
you want the distance down to the footing to equal an Circular saw with masonry blade Mason’s jointer
exact number of block courses (which, with standard Mason’s chisel and maul Mortar
blocks, will be a multiple of eight). Once you’ve got the Sledgehammer Mortar box
measurement right, you can help yourself by working Masonry hoe 1 × 1 piece
slowly and methodically and following some time- Trowel No. 4 rebar
tested rules. When it comes to mortar, be conservative. Plywood Steel ladder braces
You should only mix the mortar you’ll use in about Anchor bolts
30 minutes; if mortar sits around longer than that it
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Buttering a concrete block involves laying narrow slices of mortar on the two flanges at the end of the block. It is not necessaryProof 1
to butter the valley between the flanges unless the project calls for it.
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■ HOW TO C U T CONC R E T E BL OC K
1 2
Mark cutting lines on both faces of Use a mason’s chisel and maul Option: Cut half blocks from
the block, and then score 1⁄8 to ¼"-deep to split one face of the block along the combination corner blocks. Corner
cuts along the lines using a circular saw cutting line. Turn the block over and split blocks have preformed cores in the
equipped with a masonry blade. the other face. center of the web. Score lightly above
the core, and then rap with a mason’s
chisel to break off half blocks.
■ HOW TO M I X MOR TA R
1 2 3
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Empty mortar mix into a mortar box Set a piece of plywood on blocks Snap the trowel gently downward to
and form a depression in the center. Add at a convenient height, and place a dislodge excess mortar clinging to the
about ¾ of the recommended amount shovelful of mortar onto the surface. edges. Position the trowel at the starting
of water into the depression, and then Slice off a strip of mortar from the pile point, and “throw” a line of mortar onto
mix it in with a masonry hoe. Do not using the edge of your mason’s trowel. the building surface. Do not get ahead
overwork the mortar. Continue adding Slip the trowel point-first under the of yourself. If you throw too much
small amounts of water and mixing section of mortar and lift up. mortar, it will set before you are ready.
until the mortar reaches the proper
consistency. Do not mix too much
mortar at one time—mortar is much
Proof 1
easier to work with when it is fresh.
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■ HOW TO BU I L D A BLOC K FOU N DAT ION WA L L
1 2
Position story poles at each corner of the foundation. Lay the first course in a “dry run” to determine if you’ll need
Mark the top line using the string lines as reference, and then to cut or use any special blocks. Use a scrap piece 3⁄8" thick as
mark down 8" for each course of blocks. a spacer for the mortar joints.
3 4
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Lay the first block by spreading enough mortar for three Set the opposite corner block in place and position
blocks in a ladder pattern. Set the corner block in place and mason line blocks and guide string. Follow the string in laying
check plumb and level against the story pole. the rest of the course.Proof 1
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5 6
As you build courses, tie supporting rebar to the footing Cut blocks as necessary, scoring on your mark and breaking
rebar. Fill the rebar cavities with concrete. with a hammer and broad cold chisel. You can also use a
grinder equipped with a diamond blade.
7 8
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Tool the mortar joints with a mason’s Provide additional lateral reinforcement by using steel truss work braces or
jointer when the mortar is “thumbprint” “ladders” made to lay across the top of a course around the block cavities. These
ready. Sink anchor bolts for the mudsill should be used every other course for best effect. Lastly, you can use special metal
into block cavities filled with concrete lath to isolate a course and fill just that course with concrete—a requirement of some
(inset). Space them roughly every 4'. codes for the top-most course.
Proof 1
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F R A M I NG T H E F LOOR
T he floor structure is the stage for the rest of
your addition, so take pains to maintain a level
surface and solid construction throughout. You’ll also
solid wood blocking between joists even if the codes
don’t require it for your addition.
Otherwise, you need only follow the plans. If your
make all the construction that follows that much building plans have been carefully developed, they
easier, from framing the walls to laying down the address code considerations and best standards and
final flooring. practices. Put all the pieces in place accurately and the
Because so much depends on the floor structural load will be evenly distributed across the floor’s
structure, precise measurements are vital. Before surface, guaranteeing a floor that won’t sag over time and
you even start framing the floor, re-check level and that provides a comfortable, solid feel underfoot.
plumb on the foundation walls and re-measure
the existing floor structure. You can adjust to
suit minor variations by shimming the mudsill Tools & Materials ▸
where necessary.
Once you begin building the floor, constantly Hammer Metal joist hangers
check level and measurements, and always use sound Circular saw 16d nails
construction techniques. For instance, never butt floor Lag screws 10d nails
joists up to one another where the ends meet over a 2 × 6s (pressure- ¾" tongue-and-groove
beam. They should overlap to ensure the strongest treated and not) plywood sheets
possible floor structure. And to prevent squeaky floors Socket wrench Eye and ear protection
and add to the integrity, brace with metal X-braces or
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
The floor structure for a new addition is not complicated, but making sure it is built correctly and carefully is
extremely important.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO F R A M E A F LOOR
1 2
Attach 2 × 6 pressure-treated mudsills to the tops of the foundation walls. They Cut the rim joists to length and
must be positioned flush with the outside edges of the foundation wall. Lay the sills in then toenail them to the mudsill. Align
position so the J-bolts set in the foundation walls mark drilling points in the underside the outside face of each rim joist
of the sill plates. Drill guide holes for the bolts. Secure the mudsills with the bolts with the outer edges of the sill plate.
and washers and nuts. Tip: Add a layer of sill-seal barrier between the sill and the Mark the inside face of the mudsill for
foundation wall. the joist positions. Use galvanized nails
whenever nailing into treated wood.
3 Lap siding
Insulation
Sheathing
Flashing
Ledger
Header joist
Lag screws
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Nail metal joist hangers to the home’s existing rim joist, to Option: In some areas, you may be allowed to remove only the
support the new joists. In most areas, the joists do not need siding and attach a ledger board instead of attaching hangers
to be made from pressure treated lumber, but if they do you’ll directly to the house’s rim joist.
need to use triple-coated, hot-dipped fasteners. Position the
hangers 16" on center, unless otherwise designated by code.
Remove siding and sheathing as needed to expose the rim
joist in the rim joist area.
Proof 1
(continued)
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4
Cut the floor joists to length and set the ends in the Option: If the subfloor sheets you are installing do not have
hangers, with the other ends resting on the mudsill, flush against tongue-and-groove edges, or if you’ll need to cut it such that
the new rim joist. Crown all joists (the bow facing upwards, two pieces will meet at a plain butt joint, install blocking to
not sagging down). Secure the joists in the hangers with joist support any seams that will not fall over joists. Blocking also
hanger nails or 10d common nails, filling every predrilled nail helps stiffen the floor. Use three 16d common nails to attach
hole in each hanger. Nail the joists into the hangers and nail the the end of each piece of blocking to the joists.
opposite ends to the new rim joist. Check joists for level.
5 Tongue-and-Groove
Sheathing ▸
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Subfloor panels must be made of sheathing that is
rated for use in a floor system. These may be made
either of plywood or oriented strandboards. They
are generally ¾" thick (or within a 1⁄16" or 1⁄32" of ¾").
Subfloor sheathing often is milled with tongue-and-
Install the subfloor sheeting. If you are using sheathing groove edges that fit together during installation.
that has no tongue-and-groove edges, install the subfloor so This provides greater rigidity and reduces bounce.
there is a 1⁄8" expansion gap between panels. Apply a bead of In some cases, using tongue-and-groove sheathing
construction adhesive to the tops of the joists before setting panels can eliminate the need to install nailers
each panel. If you have installed nailing blocks, make sure between joists if a seam will fall over the spot.
panel seams fall over blocks.Proof 1
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Engineered Lumber ▸
Engineered lumber offers a viable alternative to the
dimensional sawn lumber used in the structural
members of your floor system. Engineered members,
such as beams and truss chords, are constructed from
a variety of wood fiber sources—reclaimed wood,
mill waste, etc.—that are bonded and manufactured
into lumber that performs the same job as their sawn
counterparts, only more efficiently. Because engineered
lumber uses byproducts that would otherwise have gone
into the waste stream, this type of lumber is considered
a “green” building option. Engineered components are
usually more expensive than sawn pieces, but are lighter
and easier to work with. Engineered beams can bear
greater amounts of weight than dimensional lumber of
the same size, which can sometimes allow you to fit a
structural element into a spot that would otherwise be
too small.
Two key pieces that can be used in constructing
an addition floor are engineered “I” joists or beams, and
truss joists.
Engineered I beams come in the same sizes as
standard lumber but in the I-form common to steel beams.
Light and strong, an entire joist can be carried by a single
worker. However, because of their composition, I joists and
beams tend to be somewhat “floppy” over their lengths,
and are consequently crossbraced more frequently than
sawn joists are.
Truss joists are fabricated components with an
open-web design similar to the steel joists and beams
seen on many bridges. Wooden truss joists are usually
constructed of pieces of smaller lumber, such as 2 × 4s.
The web design gives the joists exceptional strength
and offers more room to run plumbing, wiring and other
services through the joists.
Special hangers and braces may be required for
engineered lumber, but otherwise the installation process
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
is the same.
Proper floor support is crucial to not only guarantee
that the addition’s floor doesn’t sag or flex, but also
to provide necessary structural stability to the whole
addition. Building codes and manufacturers instructions
will mandate exactly how long you can run an
engineered joist. Engineered lumber usually is made by laminating
plywood, OSB or sawn lumber into thick beams with
widths corresponding to standard dimensional stock.
This beam is made from face-glued strips of plywood and
it can span greater distances than a beam of the same
width made from solid 2× stock
Proof 1
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F R A M I NG A WA L L Hand Nailing ▸
M easurements are critical in framing a wall,
but the actual components that go into the
structure are fairly basic. Refer to your plans and
be sure to account for all of the elements of your
framed wall, including door and window openings.
For any frame carpentry it usually works best to build
the wall on the ground or floor, including the sill
and cap plates. Then, raise the assembly, position
it, and anchor it to the structural members beneath The best hand-nailing technique for joining
framing members depends on whether you assemble
the subfloor.
the framed wall and then raise it, or you add
boards one at a time in their final position. If you’re
assembling the wall on the floor or ground, end-
nail the studs to the plates whenever you can (left
Tools & Materials ▸ sample). End-nailed joints, usually made with 10d
common nails, are strong and fast to make. To double
up wall studs or headers, facenail the parts (right
Hammer Carpenter’s pencil
sample) with 8d common nails. Facenailing is also
Tape measure 2 × 6 lumber used for attaching jack studs to king studs. To fasten
Level 16d and 10d nails a vertical stud to a top or sole plate that is already in
Circular saw Eye and ear protection place, toenailing (middle sample) is your best option.
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
The wall raising is one of the more exciting moments in construction, as the shape of the structure begins to emerge. The basicProof 1
idea is to build the addition as completely as you can before you cut into the house.
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■ HOW TO F R A M E A WA L L
1 2
Sight down the studs and top and sole plates and Gang-mark the wall stud locations on the sole and top
replace any with warps or obvious imperfections. Cut the plates. Cut the plates to length first and clamp the ends
plates and studs to uniform lengths, using a stop block. If together, making sure they are flush. In most cases, the studs
you have designed your addition with 8'-tall walls, look for should be 16" on center. Draw an X on the side of the marking
precut 925⁄8" studs. Note: In most climates today, your wall lines where the stud will fit.
framing members should be made of 2 × 6 lumber, not the
2 × 4 lumber seen here. Code requirements for minimum wall
insulation generally require a deeper 2 × 6 stud bay.
3 4
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
With sole plate lying on-edge, face nail through the sole Build the wall corners. There are several ways you can
plate and into the bottoms of the studs. Use two or three 16d create interlocking corners so the wall can be attached easily
common nails per stud. Then, nail the top plate to the other and accurately to the adjoining framed wall. Here, a pair of
end of the studs so that the wall is framed, lying down. studs are installed perpendicular to the corner stud to create
nailing surfaces for the adjoining wall and for the exterior wall
Proof 1
sheathing at the corner.
(continued)
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5 6
Measure the diagonals of the wall to check that it is Raise the first wall. Nail guide blocks to the outside edge
square. If the diagonal measurements are not identical, use of the rim joist to create stops for the soleplate. With a helper,
pressure (and clamps if necessary) to pull the wall frame into raise the wall into position and check the studs for plumb and
square. If the diagonals just won’t match, measure the wall the wall for level. If the wall abuts the house make sure it fits
studs and make sure none of the studs is too long or too short. cleanly against the wall (the siding should have been removed
at the wall tie-in spot by this point).
7 8
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Nail the soleplate to the structural members beneath Plumb the wall, then nail the corner wall stud to the existing
the subfloor with pairs of 16d common nails spaced every house structure. If you did not plan your addition so the wall
14" to 16". Attach a 2 × 4 brace to an intermediate stud and meets the house at a house stud location, you’ll need to
anchor the other end to a stake in the ground. remove the exterior wall sheathing in the installation area and
install 2 × 4 or 2 × 6 nailing blocks between the wall studs on
each side of the opening.Proof 1
518 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Text SLC Page:518
9
Begin building the second wall. If the wall includes an exterior door, nail king studs into place allowing for the rough-in width of
the prehung door unit plus 3" (for the jack studs). Face nail jack studs in place.
Constructing a Header ▸
Door and window openings are wider than normal stud spacing, so they require a head beam, or header, to transfer the
overhead weight to the studs at the sides of the opening. Professional builders commonly make their own headers by
sandwiching ½" plywood between two 2× pieces. The width of the 2× depends on the width of the opening and how
much overhead load the wall carries; check your local codes. The pieces are laminated with construction adhesive and
then nailed from both sides to create a strong header that measures exactly as wide as the thickness of a 2 × 4 wall. For
2 × 6 walls, construct a box from parallel 2×s on all sides and fill it with insulation.
Built-up header
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Construction adhesive
2×
½" plywood
2×
Proof 1
(continued)
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10 11
Place the header on the tops of the jack studs with the Add extra blocking next to the door opening for
ends flush against the king studs. Drive 10d common nails improved security.
through the king studs and into the header. Then, cut cripple
studs to fit between the header and the top plate, maintaining
the 16" on center spacing. Toenail the cripple studs into position.
12 13
Window sill
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Jack stud
Add framing for windows as needed. Nail king studs Nail a doubled 2 × 4 window sill into place on top of jack
into place, allowing for the rough-in width of the window plus studs. Drive 10d common nails through the king studs and into
3". Face nail jack studs into place above the sole plate to the the ends of the double sill.
bottom of the sill.Proof 1
520 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Text SLC Page:520
14 15
Sill
Window header Cripple stud
Header
Nail the window header into position above the top jack Nail cripple studs above the header and below the sill,
studs, face-nailing it through the king studs. adding more cripples as necessary to maintain at least 16" on
center spacing for studs.
16
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Tie adjoining wall frames together by nailing them at the corners, and add overlapping top plates to lock the walls together.
Proof 1
521CGHI_496-560_11984.indd 521 12/1/17 2:47 PM CGHI_496-560_11984.indd 521 Job: 11984 Title: #225388_Black & Decker Of Home Improvement (MBI) 12/1/17 2:38 PM Text SLC Page:521
CONST RUC T I NG T H E A DDI T ION ’S ROOF
A well-built roof helps define architectural style
while protecting your house from the elements. An
addition’s roof is no different—it too has to complement
or vertical height in relation to the “run” or span of the
roof surface. For instance, a common pitch would be
6-in-12, meaning that the roof slopes 6 inches for every
the architecture and shield the space below. But the 12 inches of span. Other variables include the depth
roof on an addition must also link the new space to the of the eaves, the soffit style, and end wall overhang,
existing structure, both visually and structurally. if any. Because your original roof was engineered with
The first step in effectively making that link is these variables in mind, the easiest and most common
choosing a roof style. Although a basic triangular gable strategy is to mimic the existing roof and features.
roof is the most common—and one of the easiest to Regardless, the roof details will be worked
frame—the look or function of your particular addition out in the planning stage and will be detailed in
may be better suited to a more complex hip roof with the building plans, according to best practices and
intersecting planes and multiple valleys, an easy-to- code requirements. The plans serve as a roadmap
build shed roof with its single sloping plane, or the for framing the roof, a process that requires a well-
distinctive gambrel roof that adds two additional angles thought-out construction process because it happens
to the gable’s design and increases the attic’s head room. mostly in midair. Because the framing members of
The possibilities increase when you consider the a roof are usually large and unwieldy, it’s unwise to
many variations of these basic styles, but the roof you attempt framing even a small roof without at least one
choose for your addition will likely be most influenced or two strong helpers.
by the existing architecture. Because any new roof must
complement and tie into existing roof lines, a good
design normally matches the addition’s roof to the style Tools & Materials ▸
used on the rest of the house. That’s the easiest way to Carpenter’s square Metal rafter ties
prevent the addition from looking like an afterthought. Hammer Hanger brackets
Practical considerations also play a big role in roof Tape measure 16d and 8d nails
choice. The most important of these is the angle of the Carpenter’s pencil 2 × 10 ridge board
roof ’s slope, called the pitch. The appropriate pitch Jigsaw 2 × 6 joists
for your roof depends on a number of variables, such Tablesaw 2 × 4s (for ties and blocking)
as rafter size and spacing and local climate conditions. Circular saw Building paper
For instance, a more severe pitch is better where heavy Oriented strandboard Aviation snips
snowfall is common but a more moderate pitch will Drip edge flashing Eye and ear protection
resist high winds better. Pitch is expressed as the “rise”
Roof rafters are usually attached to the
wall top plates with a combination of
fasteners and metal hangers or ties.
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTSProof 1
522 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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■ C U T T I NG T H E T E M PL AT E R A F T E R
Framing the roof will go much quicker if you
measure, mark, and cut one rafter, and then use that
rafter as a template for laying out the other rafters. All
rafters will have top and bottom plumb cuts that are
parallel to the roof ridge board, as well as birdsmouth
cuts that create an angled notch that fits over the
cap plate of the framed wall. Depending on the soffit
structure of your roof, you may or may not need a
decorative tail cut. The rafter shown here is cut for a
6-in-12 roof pitch.
Birdsmouth cut
Rafter tail
Plumb cut
The two cuts you’ll need to make on any rafter are the plumb cuts, which cause the ends of the rafter to be vertical when
installed, and the birdsmouth cut, which creates a notch for the rafter to fit over the wall. Some rafter ends also receive a
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
decorative tail cut.
Constructing a Header ▸
For added strength (or as required by code), use metal
fasteners or braces to attach the rafters. Always use
hardware rated for the size rafters you are using and
fasten them securely in place using the recommended
fasteners. If you live in a hurricane or earthquake
zone, your local codes will have very specific rafter tie
requirements that you will need to follow.
Proof 1
523CGHI_496-560_11984.indd 523 12/1/17 2:47 PM CGHI_496-560_11984.indd 523 Job: 11984 Title: #225388_Black & Decker Of Home Improvement (MBI) 12/1/17 2:38 PM Text SLC Page:523
■ HOW TO C U T A T E M PL AT E R A F T E R
1 2
Mark the top plumb cut where the rafter will fit against Measure and mark the overall length of the rafter, and then
the ridge board. Tip: Sight down the rafter to determine which mark the bottom plumb cut so it is parallel to, and the same
edge, if either, crowns. When installing the rafter, you’ll want angle as, the top plumb cut.
to position the board with the crown facing in a frown-like
orientation—the crown holds up the weight of the roof better.
3 4
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Mark the birdsmouth cut. Measure from top to the outside Make the cuts. Use a circular saw to make the plumb cuts
edge of wall, and mark the birdsmouth plumb cut in from and a jigsaw to make the birdsmouth cuts, and then test fit the
that point. Use the framing square to square and mark off the template rafter. Once it fits perfectly, label it as the template
level cut. and use it to mark the rest of the rafters.Proof 1
524 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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■ HOW TO F R A M E A ROOF
1 2
Mark the positions of the rafters and ceiling joists onto Mark and cut the ends of joists as necessary to match
the top plates of the framed walls. Rafters should sit above wall rafter width and roof slope. Mark the first joist in place, then
stud location, if possible. copy the cuts on the remaining rafters.
3 Adjustable Ridge Board Supports ▸
One of the challenges of framing a roof is dealing with large, heavy, ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
and cumbersome framing members. The heaviest is usually the ridge board,
which ideally should be in place for the rafters to be installed accurately. But
because the ridge board can’t simply float in space, it needs to be supported
while the rafters are being positioned and attached. Simple 2 × 8 supports
Toenail the rim joists to the top of the nailed to the joist and ridge board can hold the ridge in place with very little
wall and reinforce the connections with flex in the ridge board positioning. To make this “fork” brace, use a tablesaw
metal ties. The ends of the rim joists to cut the shoulders of a notch centered along one end and running
should be flush with the edges of the down the length of the brace. The notch should be slightly wider than the
front wall and the outer faces should be thickness of the ridge board. Each ridge board brace should be about 10 to
set back 1½" to create a recess for the 12" longer than the required height of the ridge from the top plate.
vertical rafter supports.
Proof 1
(continued)
525CGHI_496-560_11984.indd 525 12/1/17 2:47 PM CGHI_496-560_11984.indd 525 Job: 11984 Title: #225388_Black & Decker Of Home Improvement (MBI) 12/1/17 2:38 PM Text SLC Page:525
4 5
Build a pair of temporary ridge board supports to hold Set a rafter in place against the house siding, making
the ridge board in place. Cut a notch for the ridge board in the sure it fits cleanly against the ridge board and rests cleanly
top of each support. The distance from the uncut end of the on the wall. On each side of the ridge, trace the top edges of
support to the bottom of the notch should be the planned the rafter onto the siding, then add 2" for sheathing, shingles,
distance between the tops of the walls and the bottom of the flashing, and (for vinyl roofs) J-channel to make cutting lines.
ridge board. Use at least four nails to facenail the supports
in place at both ends of the addition. Set the ridge board in
position in the supports and tack in place. Install the ceiling
joists by toenailing to the top plates of the walls and then
reinforcing with metal ties.
6 7
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Cut out the siding to make space for the rafter against the Mark, cut, and test fit the gable end rafters to ensure
wall. Tip: To cut vinyl siding, reverse the blade direction on a the accuracy of the template. Toenail the rafters to the
circular saw or cordless trim saw. Once the siding is removed, wall plate and also facenail the rafters next to the house at
find the stud locations with a stud finder and mark them. stud locations.Proof 1
526 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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8 9
Attach the rafters to the ridge board using hanger Install rafter ties near the tops of the rafters to stiffen
brackets. Make sure the distances between rafters are equal, the roof structure. Trim the top corners of the 2 × 4 ties first,
which confirms that the rafters are parallel. to match the roof slope.
10 11
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Install 2 × 4 nailers at the front of the If your plans include a gable overhang, or “rake,” nail lookouts between the
roof gables at 16" intervals. gable-end rafter and the overhang rafter. The lookouts should be installed so their top
edges are flush with the rafter tops and they should be cut from the same thickness
of 2× stock as the rafters. If your plan includes a fascia, nail the fascia board (or the
subfascia) to the rafter ends.
Proof 1
527CGHI_496-560_11984.indd 527 12/1/17 2:47 PM CGHI_496-560_11984.indd 527 Job: 11984 Title: #225388_Black & Decker Of Home Improvement (MBI) 12/1/17 2:38 PM Text SLC Page:527
■ HOW TO I NSTA L L ROOF U N DE R L AY M E N T
1 2
Nail a full sheet of oriented strandboard (OSB) or exterior- Start installing the second row of roof sheathing with
grade plywood rated sheathing to the rafter tops. Make sure a half sheet to stagger the joints. Leave a 1⁄8" gap between
the sheathing meets the minimum thickness requirements for sheets to allow for expansion (unless you are using tongue-
your project. Follow the nailing schedules required by your and-groove sheathing, where the expansion gap sets itself
local codes. Spacing of 6" on center is common along the if the panels are installed correctly). Tip: Tack the corners of
panel edges; 2½" × 8d galvanized box nails are typical when the panel by handnailing and then, when the panel is safely in
hand-nailing; 0.131" × 2½" clipped head or bent shank nails position, use a pneumatic nailer to fill in the field.
are used most often for pneumatic nailing. Start at the bottom,
gable-end corner.
Installing Drip Edge & Building Paper ▸
Eave
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Rake
The metal drip edge flashing and the building paper are woven together during the installation to create a barrier
that sheds water properly. It is important that you install drip edge and building paper in the correct order. First, cut a 45°
miter at one end of the drip edge using aviation snips. Place the drip edge along the eaves end of the roof, aligning the
mitered end with the rake edge. Nail the drip edge in place every 12". Overlap pieces of drip edge by 2". Install drip edge
across the entire eaves, ending with a mitered cut on the opposite corner. Apply felt paper, and ice guard if needed, to
the roof, overhanging the eaves by 3⁄8". Cut a 45° miter in a piece of drip edge and install it along the rake edge, forming a
miter joint with the drip edge along the eaves. Overlap pieces by 2", making sure the higher piece is on top at the overlap.
Apply drip edge all the way to the peak. Install drip edge along the other rake edges the same way.Proof 1
528 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Text SLC Page:528
3
Option: Install one or two courses of ice guard membrane Roll building paper horizontally and install drip edge
at the eave area in colder climates and as required by local flashing. Overlap the rows of paper at least 4".
codes. This self-adhesive product forms a fully-bonded layer
of protection to prevent ice dams from infiltrating beneath the
roofcovering as snow melts.
4 5
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Install building paper on one side of the roof up to the ridge, Make sure any obstructions or penetrations in
then cover the other side and overlap ridge by at least 4". the building paper layer are patched over with building
Staple down the overlap with a hammer stapler. paper or with ice guard membrane. You will still need
to flash penetrations such as this vent pipe during the
Proof 1
roofcovering installation.
529CGHI_496-560_11984.indd 529 12/1/17 2:47 PM CGHI_496-560_11984.indd 529 Job: 11984 Title: #225388_Black & Decker Of Home Improvement (MBI) 12/1/17 2:38 PM Text SLC Page:529
I NSTA L L I NG A SPH A LT SH I NG L E S
I f you want to install asphalt shingles on your roof,
then you’re in good company. Asphalt shingles,
also known as composition shingles, are the roofing
shingle is still the most common, which is the product
we’re using for this addition. The tabs provide an easy
reference for aligning shingles for installation.
of choice for nearly four out of five homeowners in To help get the job done faster, rent an air
America. They perform well in all types of climate, are compressor and pneumatic roofing gun. This will
available in a multitude of colors, shapes, and textures greatly reduce the time you spend nailing.
to complement every housing design, and are less
expensive than most other roofing products.
Asphalt shingles are available as either fiberglass
shingles or organic shingles. Both types are made Tools & Materials ▸
with asphalt, the difference being that one uses a
fiberglass reinforcing mat, while the other uses a Aviation snips Building paper
cellulose-fiber mat. Fiberglass shingles are lighter, Carpenter’s square Caulk gun
thinner, and have a better fire rating. Organic Chalk line Flashing
shingles have a higher tear strength, are more Flat bar Shingles
flexible in cold climates, and are used more often in Roofer’s hatchet or Nailing cartridges
northern regions. pneumatic nailer Roofing cement
Although the roofing market has exploded with Utility knife Roofing nails (7⁄8", 11⁄4")
innovative new asphalt shingle designs, such as Straightedge Rubber gasket nails
the architectural or laminated shingle that offers a Tape measure Eye and ear protection
three-dimensional look, the standard three-tab asphalt
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Stagger shingles for effective protection against leaks. If the tab slots are aligned in successive rows, water forms channels,
increasing erosion of the mineral surface of the shingles. Creating a 6" offset between rows of shingles—with the three-tab
shingles shown above—ensures that the tab slots do not align.Proof 1
530 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Text SLC Page:530
■ HOW TO I NSTA L L T H R E E -TA B SH I NG L E S
1 2
Full tab
Half tab
Cover the roof with building paper (page 529) and install Trim off one-half (6") of an end tab on a shingle. Position the
drip edge (page 528). Snap a chalk line onto the felt paper or shingle upside down, so the tabs are aligned with the chalk line
ice guard 11½" up from the eaves edge to mark the alignment and the half-tab is flush against the rake edge. Drive 7⁄8" roofing
of the starter course. This will result in a ½" shingle overhang nails near each end, 1" down from each slot between tabs.
for standard 12" shingles. Tip: Use blue chalk rather than red. Butt a full upside-down shingle next to the trimmed shingle,
Red chalk will stain roofing materials. and nail it. Fill out the row, trimming the last shingle flush with
the opposite rake edge.
3 4
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Apply the first full course of shingles over the starter Snap a chalk line from the eaves edge to the ridge to create
course with the tabs pointing down. Begin at the rake edge a vertical line to align the shingles. Choose an area with no
where you began the starter row. Place the first shingle so it obstructions, as close as possible to the center of the roof. The
overhangs the rake edge by 3⁄8" and the eaves edge by ½". chalk line should pass through a slot or a shingle edge on the
Make sure the top of each shingle is flush with the top of the first full shingle course. Use a carpenter’s square to establish a
starter course, following the chalk line. line perpendicular to the eaves edge.
Proof 1
(continued)
531CGHI_496-560_11984.indd 531 12/1/17 2:48 PM CGHI_496-560_11984.indd 531 Job: 11984 Title: #225388_Black & Decker Of Home Improvement (MBI) 12/1/17 2:38 PM Text SLC Page:531
5 6
18"
12"
6"
5" reveal
Use the vertical reference line to establish a shingle Fill in shingles in the second through fifth courses, working
pattern with slots that are offset by 6" in succeeding courses. upward from the second course and maintaining a consistent
Tack down a shingle 6" to one side of the vertical line, 5" 5" reveal. Slide lower-course shingles under any upper-course
above the bottom edge of the first-course shingles to start shingles left partially nailed, and then nail them down. Tip:
the second row. Tack down shingles for the third and fourth Install roof jacks, if needed, after filling out the fifth course.
courses, 12" and 18" from the vertical line. Butt the fifth course
against the line.
7 8
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Check the alignment of the shingles after each four-course When you reach obstructions, such as dormers, install
cycle. In several spots on the last installed course, measure a full course of shingles above them so you can retain
from the bottom edge of a shingle to the nearest felt your shingle offset pattern. On the unshingled side of the
paper line. If you discover any misalignment, make minor obstruction, snap another vertical reference line using the
adjustments over the next few rows until it’s corrected. shingles above the obstruction as a guide.Proof 1
532 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Text SLC Page:532
Options for Valley Flashing ▸
Here are three options for flashing a valley where two roof planes meet. Closed Valley (left): Create a seamless roof
by first laying waterproof membrane in the valley, then mitering shingles at the top and overlapping in the valley. Open
Valley (middle): Nail metal flashing down the intersection joint, and overlap shingles from both sides, at least 2". Terminate
the flashing at the gutter and lay a bead of roofing cement along the joint between shingles and flashing. W-Flashed
Valley (right): Special “W” channel flashing is used where two roofs with different pitches meet. The channel is attached to
the roof decks with clips and the clips are bent up at bottom to deflect water back into the flashing.
9 10
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Shingle upward from the eaves on the unshingled side Trim off excess shingle material at the V in the valley
of the obstruction using the vertical line as a reference for flashing using a utility knife and straightedge. Do not cut into
re-establishing your shingle slot offset pattern. Fill out the the flashing. The edges will be trimmed back farther at a slight
shingle courses past the rake edges of the roof, then trim taper after both roof decks are completely shingled.
off the excess.
Proof 1
(continued)
533CGHI_496-560_11984.indd 533 12/1/17 2:48 PM CGHI_496-560_11984.indd 533 Job: 11984 Title: #225388_Black & Decker Of Home Improvement (MBI) 12/1/17 2:38 PM Text SLC Page:533
11 12
Install shingles on adjoining roof decks, starting at the Install shingles up to the vent pipe so the flashing rests
bottom edge using the same offset alignment pattern shown on at least one row of shingles. Apply a heavy double bead of
in steps 1 to 6. Install shingles until courses overlap the center roofing cement along the bottom edge of the flange.
of the valley flashing. Trim shingles at both sides of the valley
when finished.
13 14
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Sleeve
Place the flashing over the vent pipe. Position the Cut shingles to fit around the neck of the flashing so they lie
flashing collar so the longer portion of the tapered neck slopes flat against the flange. Do not drive roofing nails through the
down the roof and the flange lies over the shingles. Nail the flashing. Instead, apply roofing cement to the back of shingles
perimeter of the flange using rubber gasket nails. where they lie over the flashing.Proof 1
534 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Text SLC Page:534
15 Outline of shape
16
for first piece
Base flashing of step flashing
Spacer
Trim line
Waste section
Shingle up to an element that requires flashing so the Pry out the lowest courses of siding and any trim at the
top of the reveal areas are within 5" of the element. Install base base of the element. Insert spacers to prop the trim or siding
flashing using the old base flashing as a template. Bend a piece away from the work area. Apply roofing cement to the base
of step flashing in half and set it next to the lowest corner of flashing in the area where the overlap with the step flashing
the element. Mark a trim line on the flashing, following the will be formed. Tuck the trimmed piece of step flashing under
vertical edge of the element. Cut the flashing to fit. the propped area, and secure the flashing. Fasten the flashing
with one rubber gasket nail driven near the top and into the
roof deck.
17 18
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Apply roofing cement to the top side of the first piece of Tuck another piece of flashing under the trim or siding,
step flashing where it will be covered by the next shingle overlapping the first piece of flashing at least 2". Set the
course. Install the shingle by pressing it firmly into the roofing flashing into roofing cement applied on the top of the shingle.
cement. Do not nail through the flashing underneath. Nail the shingle in place without driving nails through the
flashing. Install flashing up to the top of the element the same
way. Trim the last piece of flashing to fit the top corner of the
element. Reattach the siding and trim.
Proof 1
(continued)
535CGHI_496-560_11984.indd 535 12/1/17 2:48 PM CGHI_496-560_11984.indd 535 Job: 11984 Title: #225388_Black & Decker Of Home Improvement (MBI) 12/1/17 2:38 PM Text SLC Page:535
19 20
Second side overlaps peak
First side trimmed at ridge
When you reach a hip or ridge, shingle up the first side Cut three 12"-sq. cap shingles from each three-tab shingle.
until the top of the uppermost reveal area is within 5" of the With the back surface facing up, cut the shingles at the tab
hip or ridge. Trim the shingles along the peak. Install shingles lines. Trim the top corners of each square with an angled
on the opposite side of the hip or ridge. Overlap the peak no cut, starting just below the seal strip to avoid overlaps in the
more than 5". reveal area.
21 22
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Snap a chalk line 6" down from the ridge, parallel to the Following the chalk line, install cap shingles halfway along
peak. Attach cap shingles, starting at one end of the ridge, the ridge, creating a 5" reveal for each cap. Then, starting at
aligned with the chalk line. Drive two 11⁄4" roofing nails per cap the opposite end, install caps over the other half of the ridge
about 1" from each edge, just below the seal strip. to meet the first run in the center. Cut a 5"-wide section from
the reveal area of a shingle tab, and use it as a “closure cap” to
cover the joint where the caps meet.Proof 1
536 THE BOOK OF HOME IMPROVEMENT
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Text SLC Page:536
23
Shingle the hips in the same manner using a chalk Option: Install a ridge vent all along the roof ridge to create
reference line and cap shingles. Start at the bottom of each hip ventilation. A ridge vent is usually made of a strip of loosely
and work to the peak. Where hips join with roof ridges, install woven batting that allows airflow. This is installed over long
a custom shingle cut from the center of a cap shingle. Set the slots that are cut into the roof on both sides next to the
cap at the end of the ridge and bend the corners so they fit ridge. Some ridge vents have a granular mineral surface that
over the hips. Secure each corner with a roofing nail, and cover matches your shingle color preattached; other are designed to
the nail heads with roofing cement. be shingled over as you would a normal roof ridge.
24 25
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
After all shingles are installed, trim them at the valleys Mark and trim the shingles at the rake edges of the roof.
to create a gap that’s 3" wide at the top and widens at a Snap a chalk line 3⁄8" from the edge to make an overhang, then
rate of 1⁄8" per foot as it moves downward. Use a utility knife trim the shingles.
and straightedge to cut the shingles, making sure not to cut
through the valley flashing. At the valleys, seal the undersides
and edges of shingles with roofing cement. Also cover exposed
nail heads with roofing cement.
Proof 1
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SH E AT H I NG E X T E R IOR WA L L S
W all sheathing is the skin that serves as a base
for the final siding. There are basically two
types of sheathing—structural and non-structural.
Structural sheathing is the option of choice in
most additions, and in most cases that means using
plywood or oriented strandboard (OSB). Regardless
Structural sheathing supports the framing, increasing of which you choose, the sheets should be rated for
the overall strength of the structure. Non-structural exterior wall use. The most common size is ½ inch,
sheathing is used where the structure is supported although local code requirements may call for
in other ways such as metal ties or let-in boards. different thicknesses.
The category includes insulation panels and other Although the standard dimensions for sheets
lightweight alternatives. are 4 × 8 feet, you can also purchase 4 × 9 feet,
4 × 10 feet, or even 4 × 12 feet sheets to
accommodate your needs. Many people choose
Tools & Materials ▸ to install the panels before raising the walls into
position, which makes it easier to work with the
Hammer 4 × 8 OSTS sheets
large panels, but heavier lifting. Installing the
Circular saw 2 × 4 blocking
panels after the walls are up, however, makes
Reciprocating saw Eye and ear protection
marking the cuts for window and door openings
8d nails
easier and faster.
Plywood versus
OSB Wall Sheathing ▸
The most common wall sheathing materials are
plywood, which is formed of laminated wood layers,
and OSB, made of wood strands mixed with adhesive.
These two types of sheathing are interchangeable,
but in most areas of the country, OSB is cheaper.
OSB can also be formed into much larger panels
than plywood can, making it a good choice for
unusually large wall surfaces. However, plywood
absorbs water and dries in a much more efficient and
uniform fashion. This means it’s a better option in
high-moisture areas and as a base for some types of
siding such as stucco and wood shingles.
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Plywood or OSB panels that are rated for use as wall
sheathing are a much better choice for exterior addition walls
than insulation boards or other panels that may be allowed but
have little or no structural value.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L WA L L SH E AT H I NG
1 2
Nail the first full panel into place, starting at a bottom Start installing the second row of sheathing panels with
corner. If it works for your layout and situation, install the a half sheet to stagger the joints between panels. Leave a 1⁄8"
panels horizontally to cut down on trips up and down the expansion gap horizontally and 1⁄16" gap vertically.
ladder. Space nails at 6" intervals around the edges and every
12" in the field.
3
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Measure carefully and then mark and cut the openings for Option: Install 4 × 9' sheets of sheathing in installations where
windows, doors, and other openings such as vents. In many the sheathing needs to fill past the wall top plate and up to or
cases, you may find it easier to trace around framed openings near the rafter tops.
Proof 1 2 T
after the sheathing is installed and then cut them out with a
reciprocating saw.
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BU I L DI NG W R A P
H ousewrap is a specially engineered fabric that
blocks air and water infiltration from the outside
but allows moisture vapor to pass through from the
inside. It’s best to apply the housewrap before installing
windows and doors, but since that’s not always possible
with a remodeling or siding replacement job, you can
cut the housewrap to fit around them. Most siding
materials need to be nailed to studs, and the marks
on the housewrap identify their locations. Staples are
permissible for fastening housewrap, but cap nails are
recommended and have better holding power.
Felt paper is not the same as housewrap. It’s not
necessarily designed to work as an air barrier, and it
may absorb water. Do not substitute felt paper when
housewrap is supposed to be used.
Tools & Materials ▸
Hammer Housewrap (3, 5, 9, or
Utility knife 10' widths)
Tape dispenser Housewrap tape Make “martini glass” cutouts in the building wrap for
Cap nails (2 or 3") Eye and ear protection window and vent openings. Fold the flaps inside and staple
along studs and sill.
■ HOW TO I NSTA L L BU I L DI NG W R A P
1 2
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Starting 6 to 12" around a corner and 3" over the Nail the housewrap every 12 to 18" on the vertical stud
foundation to cover the sill plate, unroll the housewrap along lines using cap nails. Keep the housewrap pulled snug as it’s
the side of the house with the printed side facing out. Align the unrolled. Cut holes in the housewrap for extrusions such as
printed stud marks on the housewrap with the stud marks on hose spigots and the electric meter.
the sheathing. Keep the roll straight as you unwrap it.Proof 1
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3 4
When starting a new roll, overlap vertical seams by 6 to At window and door locations, cut the housewrap at the
12", aligning the stud marks. Begin the second course by middle of the nailing flanges. At the bottom, cut the housewrap
overlapping the bottom course by 6". Once again, make sure at the sill. Pull the sill and jamb flashing over the housewrap.
stud marks are lined up. Be careful not to slice the nailing flanges and windowsills when
cutting the housewrap.
5 6
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Tape all seams with housewrap tape to assist the Also apply housewrap tape to accidental tears, and
vapor seal. seams around doors, windows, and plumbing and electrical
protrusions. Tape the bottom of the protrusion first, then the
sides, then place a piece of tape over the top.
Proof 1
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I NSTA L L I NG SI DI NG
T he best way to seamlessly blend the addition
with the rest of the house is to use the exact
same siding for the addition. However, the transition
of the existing wall. Leave the steel mesh lath, and
overlap with the lath from the new wall. Then stucco
the joint carefully to avoid cracks.
will be convincing only if the siding runs from the Brick and stone: There are two methods for
house to the addition without visual interruption. incorporating the brick or stone wall of a new wall
The following illustrations demonstrate how to with an older surface. The most solid connection is
integrate your new siding with your old as naturally made by “toothing” out the existing wall—removing
as possible. bricks or stones along the edge and cementing in
Vinyl, fiber cement, or wood clapboard: connecting pieces from new wall to old. On irregular
Although the mounting method is different for siding stone walls or where you want to save the labor of
and clapboard, the method for incorporating old with toothing a brick wall, you can use steel wall ties.
new is the same: on parallel walls, remove short end These are rails that are attached to the existing wall
sections and panels, pry up starter strips, and overlap with tongues that are hooked in and sit between the
building wrap from the addition onto the old wall. mortar joints of the new wall.
Replace the siding with new full-length pieces that Shingles and shakes: Pry up shingles 1 foot in
run onto the addition wall. On inside corners, run from the edge (leaving only whole shingles) at which
inside corner trim up the intersection and side the the parallel addition wall will attach. Overlap addition
addition as new. wall building wrap and begin installing shingles from
Stucco: Stucco is a difficult material to work the exposed part of the existing wall, repeating the
with at any time, but blending two stucco walls is a existing pattern. Where the walls meet at a right angle
challenge usually best left to a professional. The trick use inside corner trim and shingle the addition wall as
is to score and hammer out several inches at the end you would any new construction.
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Lap siding to lap siding Stucco to stuccoProof 1
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Sheathing
Masonry unit to masonry unit
Insulation
Felt paper
Siding
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Lap siding, backers for stucco, furring strips for shakes,
and any panelized siding products should be attached
with fasteners that go through the sheathing and into the
Shingle to shingle wall framing.
Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L V I N Y L SI DI NG
1 2
Nail the inside and outside corner posts for the siding Measure, cut, and nail J-channels in place on either
into place, starting ¼" below top of corners. Drive nails in on side of windows and doors, in the same manner that you
either side of each post and check for plumb, then nail every nailed the corner posts, leaving them slightly loose to allow
8" down the post, overlapping the top pieces. Leave a gap for expansion.
between the nails and the surface of the siding so that the
post is loose enough to move slightly.
3 4
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Cut a 1"-long piece of J-channel for the top corner of each Measure, cut, and install J-channel along the roof lines. To
window and door. Bend over the flange of each cut corner overlap, cut 1" from the nailing hem. Overlap ¾", leaving ¼"
piece slightly so it fits over the top J-channel and functions as for expansion.
a drip edge.Proof 1
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5 6
At an outside corner, measure up from the point where the Measure and snap starter strip chalk lines around the
bottom edge of the siding will hang to the width of the starter other walls of the addition. Position the starter strip so that
strip minus ¼". Hammer in a nail at this point and repeat at the top edges are even with the reference chalk lines. Fasten the
opposite corner. Snap a chalk line between nails as a reference starter strips by hammering nails in the centers of the slots at
for starter strips. 10" intervals.
7 8
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Securely lock the first horizontal siding panel into the Check that the panel can move freely from side to side.
starter strip. Ensure that the panel is locked in over its entire Continue nailing panels as needed to complete the course.
length before nailing. Nail the first panel to the sheathing. Overlap adjacent panels by approximately 1", or about one-half
Hammer nails in the centers of slots, leaving a 1⁄32" gap the length of the notch at the end of the panel.
between the nailheads and the siding surfaces.
Proof 1
(continued)
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9 10
Lock and nail the panels for the second course into place. Measure and cut panels to fit around the openings, leaving
Stagger the panel lengths so that the overlaps are offset by an extra ¼" all around for expansion. At cutout areas beneath
at least 12" from course to course. Check alignment and level an opening, punch the upper cut edge of the panel with a snap
after every course and make adjustments as necessary. lock punch and nail through the hole. Install utility trim over
the edge.
11 Blending Old & New ▸
Making the siding on your addition blend with
the existing siding, and look good in its own right,
is mostly a matter of using a few simple design
techniques. Overlap panels as far away as possible
from doorways and other areas that see significant
foot traffic. This will place vertical seams where they
are less noticeable. And to keep unsightly seams to a
minimum, use panels that are as long as possible and
never shorter than 3'.
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Cut slots in the panels to fit around fixtures such as a
hose bibb or a service entry cable housing, leaving an extra
¼" around the fixture. Add a decorative trim ring, available at
home centers or your siding retailer, for a finished look.Proof 1
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■ OT H E R T Y PE S OF L A P SI DI NG
Wood lap siding comes in wide or narrow strips and is Fiber-cement lap siding is a relative newcomer but its use is
normally beveled. Exterior-rated wood that can be clear coated spreading quickly. It is very durable but requires some special
is common (usually cedar or redwood). Other wood types tools for cutting and installation.
are used, too, but these are usually sold preprimed and are
suitable for painting only.
Starting Wood & Fiber Cement Lap Siding ▸
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Attach a starter strip at the base of each wall section. Nail the first course of beveled siding in place. For fiber
Cut the strip from the top (narrow) edge of the worst- cement board drive nails only through the area of the
looking pieces of siding. Nail the strip all along the bottom siding board that will be overlapped by the next course,
of the wall, keeping a gap of about 1⁄8" beneath it to limit which will conceal the nailhead.
contact with moisture.
Proof 1
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SOF F I T S, FA SC I A & GU T T E R S
S ome older homes and certain house styles
such as Arts & Crafts are designed with open
eaves in which the ends of the rafters are exposed.
maintenance-free. Vinyl panels and channels are
easily cut to fit with special shears or a saw. The
soffit panels come in solid and perforated styles
But installing fascia and soffits creates a finished and, although the standard practice is to install one
appearance to the roofline. perforated panel for about every three or four solid
In addition, modern vinyl soffits offer many panels, you can actually create an entire soffit of
advantages over traditional wood styles; they perforated panels—which will make ordering the
are easy to clean, simple to install, and virtually materials much easier.
■ SOF F I T & FA S C I A T Y PE S
Fascia cladding. Clad an existing fascia
with aluminum or vinyl, or nail F-channel
to the bottom of the fascia if you prefer to
maintain the wood surface. You can also
select vinyl fascia, with the soffit channel
molded into the design.
Metal soffit panels. Nail F-channel to
the wall, leaving a small gap between
the nailhead and channel to allow for
expansion. Soffit panels rest on a fascia
cladding ledge and F-channel. A portion
of each panel is usually perforated
for ventilation.
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Wood soffits. Wood panels are custom
cut from ¼ or ½" exterior rated plywood.
The panels can be nailed to rafter lookouts
or set onto narrow ledges similar to
F-channels. Vent covers are attached over
ventilation holes cut into the panels.Proof 1
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■ HOW TO I NSTA L L GU T T E R S & DOW NSPOU T S
1 2
Mark the starting point of the gutter at one end (or the Attach a drop outlet to the fascia at the low point, preferably
middle of a long run), and at the low point at the other end, with a long deck screw that extends into the rafter end.
allowing for ¼ to ½" to slope for every 10' of run. Snap a chalk
line between the two points.
3 4
Mount hangers for the gutters, beginning at the high-end Cut the gutter sections and downspouts to fit using
mark. Mount the hangers approximately every 30" unless a fine-toothed hacksaw. Remove any burrs with fine-grade
directed otherwise by the manufacturer. sandpaper and test-fit the sections.
5 6
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Build the downspout by connecting the pipe sections with Complete the downspout assembly with a final elbow and
elbows to run down the wall. Connect the downspout to the pipe section, routed onto a splash drain or into a drain culvert
Proof 1
wall with straps spaced approximately at 8' intervals. so that water drains away from the foundation.
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I NSTA L L I NG W I N DOWS I N A N A DDI T ION
P reventing water from getting in is one of the
most important considerations when installing
a window in an addition. The key is to seal all joints
Tools & Materials ▸
around the window and block anyplace the water Hammer Metal drip edge
could wick in. Although caulking can be effective, Tape measure Brickmold
it’s also easy to miss small spots, and caulking will Level Roofing nails
deteriorate over time. That’s why builders in wetter Utility knife Minimal-expanding
parts of the country install plenty of flashing around Handsaw spray foam
the window with waterproof membrane. If you want Caulk gun insulation
extra protection against water infiltration, start from Window Eye and ear
the bottom, cut strips of self-adhesive waterproof Self-adhesive flashing protection
membrane, and apply them under the window, up the Exterior-grade
sides, and then on top of the window. All seams should silicone caulk
face down and the top and bottom strips should run Shims
out 6 inches on either side of the window. Repeat the Flashing
procedure over the nailing flanges.
New windows can be installed after
the wall framing and sheathing is done.
Many builders sheath over the window
openings, then cut them out as they
install each window, to keep weather and
wildlife out.
Mullion post
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTSProof 1
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Green Window Choices ▸
Installing the right windows for your home and region
can instantly trim your energy usage. That’s why, when
choosing windows for an addition, you should always
look for the Energy Star label. A designation given by the
US Department of Energy, the Energy Star label ensures
a window meets or exceeds federal guidelines for home
energy efficiency. An even more important gauge than
simply looking for an Energy Star label is to read the NFRC
label on the window. Specifically, note the U-factor and
Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) ratings for the window.
If you live in a fairly cold region of the country, you want
the lowest U-factor you can find, with a moderate to high
SHGC. If your home is located in a temperate area with
consistently warm temperatures, the SHGC number is
the most important one to you, and it should be as low
as possible.
■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A W I N DOW I N A N A DDI T ION
1 2
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Flash the rough sill. Apply 9"-wide self-adhesive flashing Caulk the opening. Apply a ½"-wide bead of caulk around
tape to the rough sill to prevent moisture infiltration below the the outside edges of the jack studs and header to seal the
window. Install the flashing tape so it wraps completely over window flange in the opening. Leave the rough sill uncaulked
the sill and extends 10 to 12" up the jack studs. Fold the rest of to allow any water that may penetrate the flashing to drain out.
the tape over the housewrap to create a 3" overlap. Peel off the
backing and press the tape firmly in place. Install tape on the
side jambs butting up to the header, and then flash the header.
Proof 1
(continued)
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3 4
Position the window. Set the window unit into the rough Tack the top corners. Drive a roofing nail through each top
opening, and center it side to side. Check the sill for level. corner hole of the top window flange to tack it in place. Do not
drive the rest of the nails into the top flange yet.
5 6
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Plumb the window. Have a helper hold the window in Nail the flanges. Drive 2" roofing nails through the flange
place from outside while you work inside. Check the window nailing holes and into the rough sill to secure it. Handnail
jamb for square by measuring from corner to corner. If the this flange, being careful not to damage the flange or
measurements are the same, the jamb is square. Insert shims window cladding.
between the side jambs and rough opening near the top
corners to hold the jambs in position. Use additional shims as
needed to bring the jamb into square. Recheck the diagonals
after shimming.Proof 1
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7 8
Flash the side flanges. Seal the side flanges with flashing Install the drip cap. Cut a piece of metal drip edge to fit
tape, starting 4 to 6" below the sill flashing and ending 4 to 6" over the top window jamb. This is particularly important if your
above the top flange. Press the tape firmly in place. new window has an unclad wooden jamb with preinstalled
brickmold. Set the drip edge in place on the top jamb, and
secure the flange with a strip of wide flashing tape. Do not nail
it. Overlap the side flashing tape by 6". Note: If you plan to trim
the window with wood brickmold or other moldings, install the
drip edge above that trim instead.
9 10
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Finish the installation. Cut the shim ends so they are flush Spray the foam insulation around the perimeter of the
with the inside of the wall using a utility knife or handsaw. window on the interior side.
Proof 1
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I NSTA L L I NG A N E N T RY DOOR I N A N A DDI T ION
I f your addition is to the front of your house and
includes an entry, the new entry door will provide
you with a fine opportunity to dress up the house and
away from the wall so that visitors don’t feel crowded
upon entering.
If your addition is in the rear of the house, it may
to integrate the new part with the old. Your choice of contain an entry door that is less of a design statement
exterior door design should be driven by the style of than simply a serviceable way to get in and out. The
the exterior doors on the existing house. Matching following service door installation includes a fairly
door styles is just one more way of integrating the plain steel door leading to a workshop addition. If you
addition with the design of the house. In addition to are installing a fancier front door, the techniques are
the number of panels or other design elements, you’ll fundamentally the same.
need to determine whether you want an “inswing” or
“outswing” door, and what “hand” it should be. This is
a matter of space and precedent. Most exterior doors
Tools & Materials ▸
swing in, but if your addition’s space will be small Handsaw Exterior-grade
and cluttered, you may want to opt for an outswing Hammer silicone caulk
door. The “hand” of the door is simply the location of Caulk gun Galvanized
the handle on the side the door swings toward. For Brick mold casing nails
example, a left handed inswing door will have the Shims Self-adhesive
handle on the left side as you face it from inside the Prehung exterior door flashing tape
space. The hand of the door should be determined Minimal-expanding spray Eye and ear
by practicality; if there is a perpendicular wall right foam insulation protection
next to the door, the door should open on the side
■ HOW TO I NSTA L L A PR E H U NG E N T RY DOOR I N A N A DDI T ION
1 2
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Flash the bottom and sides. Apply two strips of self- Flash the header. Cover the header with a third piece of
adhesive flashing tape to cover the jack studs in the door’s self-adhesive flashing tape, extending the ends of the tape
rough opening. Cut a slit in the tape and extend the outer ear 6" beyond the side flashing. Fold the extra tape over the
4 to 6" past the bottom edge of the header. Fold the tape over housewrap to form a 3" overlap.
the housewrap to create a 3" overlap. Peel off the backing and
press the tape firmly in place.Proof 1
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3 4
Seal the opening. Apply a ½"-wide bead of caulk up the Position the door in the opening. Set the bottoms of the
outside edges of the jack stud area and around the header to side jambs inside the rough opening, and tip the door into
seal the brickmold casing. place. Adjust the door so it’s level, plumb, and centered in
the opening.
5 6
ROOM ADDITION PROJECTS
Attach the door. Drive 2½" galvanized casing nails through Shim at the dead bolt and behind the hinges. Insert pairs
the brickmold to fasten the door to the jack studs and header. of shims with the door closed, adjusting the shims in or out
Space the nails every 12". until there’s a consistent 1⁄8" gap between the door and the
jamb. If your door came with them, insert one long screw at
each hinge into the framing. Then fill the gap with foam.
Proof 1
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I N DE X
A base shoe, 37 buffing bonnet, 185
AC plywood, 150 base trim spacers, 117 building codes and permits, 14–16,
access ladders, attic, 316–319 basement foundation walls, framing, 326, 327, 328, 344, 374, 375,
access panels, 342, 450, 460 54–57 434, 498
additions basement stairway shelving, building inspectors, 375
building wrap for, 540–541 158–161 building paper, 285, 528
constructing roof for, 522–529 basement storage wall, 162–167 building wrap, 540–541
drawing construction plans for, basement windows built-up base molding, 116–119
500–501 egress, 268–273 built-up chair rail, 80–83
foundation for, 506–511 replacing, 254–255 built-up crown molding, 84–89
framing floor for, 512–515 trim for, 74–77 bulkhead enclosures, 15, 329
framing walls for, 516–521 basements butcher block countertops
installing asphalt shingles on, building bathroom in, 360–363 about, 383, 385
530–537 controlling moisture in, 330–335 apron sink in, 420–423
installing entry door in, 554–555 evaluating, 328–329 building, 178–183
installing siding on, 542–547 insulating, 336–341 buttering concrete block, 508
installing windows in, 550–553 bathroom
sheathing exterior walls for, building basement, 360–363 C
538–539 designing for accessibility, cabinets
site evaluation for, 498 426–427 recessed, 200–209
site preparation for, 502–503 for efficiency apartment, 354 slide-out storage in, 376–379
soffits, fascia, and gutters for, plumbing in basement, 355–359 window seat with, 210–217
548–549 vent fans for, 488–491 cap molding profiles, 35
adhesive, for floor, 123 see also bathtubs; bidets; case molding profiles, 33
Aging-in-Place movement, 426, 427 showers; sinks; toilets case studies, 18–21
alcove bathtubs, 450–455 bathtubs casing, basic, 78–79
Americans with Disabilities Act alcove, 450–455 cast concrete countertops, 184–191
(ADA), 17, 427 anchoring freestanding, 469 ceilings
apron sink, 420–423 clawfoot, 466–469 coffered, 96–99
archways, 60–61 freestanding, 466–469 framing attic, 352–353
Arts and Crafts casing, 72–73 sliding doors for, 470–473 framing flat, 353
asbestos, 22, 123, 329 soaking, 460–465 medallions on, 100–101
asphalt building paper, 285 3-piece surrounds for, 456–459 chair rail, built-up, 80–83
asphalt shingles, installing, 530–537 universal design and, 427 chair rail profiles, 32
astragal molding profiles, 36 bay windows, 280–289 chalkline, 24–25
attics bead, 32 chamfer, 32
access ladders for, 316–319 beams, exposed, 97 chases, framing, 56
building floors in, 346–349 bed molding profiles, profiles for, 36 chisels, 26–27
building kneewalls in, 350–351 belt sander, 29 chords, 326
evaluating, 326–327 bidets, 484–487 circuit testers, 23
framing ceilings in, 352–353 bifold doors, 51 circular saw, 28
awning windows, 254 biscuit joiner, 29 clawfoot tubs, 466–469
block planes, 26–27 clay, 499
B blocking, 349 cleanout, 356–357
backsplash, tile, 386–389 blueprints, 500–501 closed-cell acoustical foam
balloon-style framing, 10–11 bookcases matting, 66
Baltic birch plywood, 150 formal, 222–227 club bar, 240–249
bamboo strip flooring, bonded, understairs, 152–157 code, 14–16
138–141 window seat with, 210–217 coffered ceilings, 96–99
banquette, 196–199 booth, built-in, 196–199 cold water supply, 451
bars box beam shelves, 228–233 collar ties, 326, 327, 352
club, 240–249 bracing, 11 coloring agent, 185
media, 234–239 branch drain, 451 combination square, 24–25
base molding branch pipes, sizing for, 43 compound power miter saw, 28–29
built-up, 116–119 brick, 542–543 computer-aided design (CAD)
bridging, 349 programs, 500Proof 1
profiles for, 34
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concrete block measuring, 253 fireplace, in family room, 364–371
buttering, 508 planning and preparation for, 252 first-aid kits, 23
cutting, 509 prehung, 49 fixed windows, 254
laying foundation with, 508–511 recessed cabinet with, 200–209 flashing, 280, 286–287, 339, 533–535
concrete countertops, 184–191, sliding tub, 470–473 flexible appliance connectors, 401
384, 385 storm, 312–315 flextime, 375
concrete sealer, 185 walkout patio, 320–323 floor covering, 123
concrete slab, raised subfloor panels dormers, 326 floor plans, 252, 500–501
over, 124–125 downdraft fans, 411 floors
condensation, 330 downspouts, installing, 549 anatomy of, 123
console sinks, 474 drain line, 355–356 bonded bamboo strip flooring,
construction plans, drawing, drain tailpiece, 451 138–141
500–501 drain T-fitting, 451 building attic, 346–349
construction tools, 26–27 drainage solutions cork tile, 142–145
cooktops, 400–401 dry wells, 335 decorative medallion in, 136–137
coping saw, 26–27 re-grading, 334 framing, 509
corded hammer drill, 507 drains, double, 175 installing laminate flooring, 126–129
cordless drill, 28 drain-waste overflow kit, 451, 454 installing raised subfloor panels,
Corian, 382 drawer slides, 377 124–125
cork tile, 142–145 drills, 28 mosaic tile, 146–147
corner molding, 37 drip edges, 280, 285, 528 planning for, 122
cornice molding, 84–89 drop-in sink, 414–415 radiant heat systems in, 130–135
countertops dry walls, 337 flute, 32
butcher block, 178–183 dry wells, installing, 335 folding doors, 51
concrete, 184–191 dust masks, 22, 26 footing, pouring, 504–505
granite tile, 192–195 footing drains, 330
selection of, 380–385 E footing trench, 505
undermount sinks and, 416 earplugs, 22 formal bookcases, 222–227
cove molding profiles, 35 easements, 498 foundation
crawlspaces, 330 edge grain, 179 anatomy of house and, 10, 11
cripple studs, 11, 12, 13, 301, 521 efficiency apartment bathroom, 354 laying concrete block, 508–511
crown molding egress windows, 15, 268–273, 329 pouring footing for, 504–505
built-up, 84–89 electric ranges, installing, 400 repairing/sealing cracks in,
installing basic, 110–113 elevation drawings, 252, 253 330, 332
profiles for, 36 end grain, 179 skim-coating walls of, 332
end nippers, 26–27 tying into existing, 506–507
D Energy Star labels, 549 foundation walls, framing basement,
dentil, 32 engineered I beams, 515 54–57
design, accessibility and, 426–427 engineered lumber, 515 framing
direct vent gas fireplace, 364 entry doors, 308–311, 554–555 for exterior door, 296–299
discharge hose, lengthening, 409 epoxy glue, 507 for exterior doors, 296–299
dishwashers exits, 15 for floor, 509
about, 406 exposed beams, 97 for interior prehung door, 49
efficient loading of, 407 exterior apron insulation, 338–339 for load-bearing prehung interior
replacing, 407–410 exterior doors installing, 308–311, doors, 50
domes, preformed, 62–65 554–555 in non-loadbearing wall, 51
doors exterior walls, sheathing, 538–539 options for windows and
anatomy of, 12–13 doors, 13
basic casing for, 78–79 F for roof, 525–527
decorative header for, 114–115 face grain, 179 for sliding and folding doors, 51
entry/exit, 15, 308–311, 554–555 family room with fireplace, 364–371 for soffits, 342–343
framing exterior, 296–299 farmer’s/farmhouse sinks, 420 styles of, 10–11
framing for, 49–51 fascia, 548 wainscot, 92–95
framing for sliding and folding, 51 fascia cladding, 548 for walls, 516–521
framing load-bearing prehung faucets, 427 framing square, 24–25
interior, 50 fiber cement siding, 542, 547 freestanding tubs, 466–469
French, 300–303 fiberglass shingles, 530 French doors, 300–303
hanging new in old jamb, 304–307 file set, 26–27 frieze, 32
installing entry, 554–555 finish sanders, 29 furnace duct
installing interior, 48–53 fire blocks, 11 framing, 57
Proof 1
installing prehung interior, 52–53 fire protection, 16 sealing, 337
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G K media bar, 234–239
gable vents, 327 king studs, 10, 11, 12, 13, 296–299 medium density fiberboard
gable walls kitchen islands (MDF), 150
anatomy of attic and, 327 stock-cabinet, 390–391 medium density overlay (MDO), 150
framing window in, 274–275 tile on, 194 melamine-coated particleboard, 185
garden windows, 276–279 two-level tile, 392–395 metal soffit panels, 548
gas fireplaces, 364 vent hood for, 396–399 moisture, controlling, 330–335
gas ranges, 401 kitchens molding
GFCI receptacles, 23 planning tips for, 374–375 on box beam shelves, 233
glass, tempered, 200 see also countertops; built-up base, 116–119
glass block windows, 290–293 dishwashers; kitchen islands; built-up chair rail, 80–83
glass composite countertops, 385 range hood; sinks built-up crown, 84–89
grab bars, 427, 441 kneewalls, 243–245, 350–351 polymer, 88–89
granite countertops, 384 knives, 26–27 profiles for, 32–37
granite tile countertops, 192–195 wall frame, 90–91
grinding pads, 185 L mortar, mixing, 509
gutter systems, 331, 333, 548–549 ladders, attic access, 316–319 mosaic tile, 146–147
laminate countertops, 381, 385 muck (soil), 499
H laminate flooring Mullion post, 548
hammer, 26–27 cutting for openings and
hammer drill, corded, 507 obstacles, 129 N
hand nailing, 516 installing, 126–129 nailing flange, replacement window
handsaw, 26–27 landscaping, additions and, 502 with, 263–265
hardwood veneer plywood, 150 lap siding, 542–543, 547 nailing frame, 225
hazardous materials, 22 laser level, 24–25 National Electric Code, 14
header sizes, 12 laundry center, custom, 168–173 National Kitchen and Bath
headers, 10, 12, 13, 519, 523 layout tools, 24–25 Association (NKBA), 17
headroom, 328 leak finder, 177, 479 natural light, 16, 327
heat registers, 119 levels, 24–25 niche, wall, 218–221
heat systems, underfloor radiant, light, natural, 16 non-slip surfaces, 427
130–135 lighting non-structural sheathing, 538
hopper windows, 254 Aging-in-Place movement and, 427
hot water supply, 451 for custom laundry center, O
house, anatomy of, 10–13 168–173 ogee, 32
housewrap, 540–541 limbing trees, 502 openings, code for, 15
load-bearing walls oriented strandboard (OSB), 538
I about, 38 ovens, 400–401
I beams, 515 anatomy of house and, 10, 11 overflow pipe, 451
icemakers, 402–405 framing prehung interior door overhead hoods, 411
injectable two-part epoxy glue, 507 opening in, 50
inspections, 14 locksets, 311, 314 P
insulation L-shaped stair, 345 padded tape, 66
for basements, 336–341 lumber, 151, 515 paper-resin countertops, 385
for bathtub, 451 lumber-core plywood, 150 partition walls
for bay window, 280–281, 289 anchoring, 38
exterior apron, 338–339 M building, 39–40
fire protection and, 16 Mace, Ronald, 426 paste wax, 185
interior wall, 340–341 main beams, 11 patio doors, walkout, 320–323
rigid foam, 337 main stack, 355–357 pedestal sinks, 474
island vent hood, 396–399 marble countertops, 384 permits, 14–16
marking gauge, 224 picture frame molding, 233
J marking tools, 24–25 picture rail molding, 37, 84–89
jack studs, 10, 11, 12, 13, masonry clips, 265 pipes, sizing for, 43
296–299, 301 masonry paints, 333 pitch, 522
jamb extensions, 52, 70 mass loaded vinyl (MLV), 66 plate groove, 233
jambs, 12, 13 materials list, permits and, 501 platform, soaking tub with, 460–465
jigsaw, 28 maximum hold and notch chart, 43 platform-style framing, 10
jointless rail-and-stile wainscot, MDF, 102 plumbing
102–105 medallions for basement bathroom, 355–359
joists, 10, 11, 123, 326, 327, 346–348 ceiling, 100–101 for bathtub, 451Proof 1
joists, truss, 515 floor, 136–137 dishwashers, 406–410
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double-bowl vanity top, 174–177 room dimensions, code for, 15 with stainless steel
refrigerator icemakers, 402–405 rosette, 32 countertops, 383
plywood, 150, 441, 538 rough opening, for interior prehung undermount, 416–419
pocket screw joint, 152 door, 49 vessel, 480–483
polishing pads, 185 rough sill, 10, 11, 13 wall-mounted, 476–479
polymer crown, 88–89 router, 29 sister joists/sistering, 327, 346, 347
post-form countertop, 381 site evaluation, 498
power planer, 29 S site plans, 501
power tools safety, 22–23 site preparation, 502–503
safety and, 22 safety glasses, 22, 26 skim-coating foundation walls, 332
types of, 28–29 sand (soil), 499 skirt frames and boards, 280,
preformed domes, 62–65 sanders, 29 288–289
prehung doors sash-replacement kits, 256–259 skylight header, 10
framing in loadbearing walls, 50 saws, 26–27, 28 skylights, tubular, 294–295
framing in non-loadbearing walls, 51 screen retainer profiles, 37 slate countertops, 384
installing, 52–53 seepage, 330 slide-out storage, 376–379
rough opening for, 49 self-rimming sinks, 414–415 sliding doors, 51
profile gauge, 24–25 setbacks, 498 soaking tubs, 460–465
project planning, 9 shakes, 542 soapstone, 384
property boundaries, 503 sharpening tools, 23 soffits
protective gear, 26. see also safety sheathing exterior walls, 538–539 framing, 56, 342–343
pry bars, 26 sheet goods, 150 types of, 548
P-trap, 451 shelf cleats, 225 where to use, 57
purlins, 326, 327 shelf edge profiles, 37 soil, assessing, 499
putty knives, 26–27 shelves Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC)
basement stairway shelving, ratings, 549
Q 158–161 soldering, 359
quarter-round, 37 box beam shelves, 228–233 sole plates, 10, 12, 13
quartersawn oak, 72 stairway wall shelves, 158–159 solid surface countertops, 382, 385
quartz countertop surfaces, 382 shingles Sound Transmission Class (STC), 66
anatomy of house and, 10, 11 sound-deadening board, 66
R for bay window, 280, 285–289 soundproof rooms, 66–67
radon, evaluating, 328–329 installing, 530–537 stainless steel countertops, 383, 385
rafters, 10, 11, 326, 327, 523– as siding, 542–543 stairs and stairways
524, 527 three-tab, 530–537 to attic, 327
raised subfloor panels, installing, shower drain, 357 attic access ladders, 316–319
124–125 showers basement stairway shelving,
raised-panel router bits, 106 in basement bathrooms, 361–362 158–161
raised-panel wainscot, 106–109 curbless, 440–449 in basements, 329
random-orbit sanders, 29 custom bases for, 434–439 building codes for, 344
range hood, 411–413 enclosure kits, 428–433 measurements for, 344
ranges, 400–401 in wet rooms, 441 stairway wall shelves, 158–159
rasps, 26–27 shutoff valves, 451 styles of, 345
recessed cabinet, 200–209 side cutters, 26–27 understairs bookcases, 152–157
reciprocating saw, 28–29 side-flight stair, 345 standard switchback stair, 345
refrigerator icemakers, 402–405 sidelights, 308–311 steel studs, 41
registers, heat, 119 siding, installing, 542–547 step flashing, 280, 286–287
re-grading for drainage, 334 silicone caulk, 185 stock-cabinet island, 390–391
resilient channels, 66 sill plates, 11 stone countertops, 384, 385
respirators, 22, 26 sinks stone siding, 542
ridge board, 10, 11 apron, 420–423 stool and apron trim, 68–71
ridge board supports, console, 474 stool molding, 37
adjustable, 525 cutout template for, 416–417 stop molding profiles, 37
ridge caps, 287 double-bowl vanity top, 174–177 storage, slide-out, 376–379
ridge vents, 537 drop-in, 414–415 storage wall, basement, 162–167
rigid foam insulation, 337 installing in butcher block storm doors, 312–315
rim joist, 10 countertop, 182–183 straight stair, 345
roof, constructing for addition, installing in concrete straight stair with open risers, 345
522–529 countertops, 191 structural sheathing, 538
roof sheathing, 10, 11 with laminate countertops, 381 struts, 327
Proof 1
roof underlayment, 528–529 pedestal, 474–475 stucco, 542–543
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stud finder, 24–25 trim wall-mounted sinks, 476–479
studs Arts and Crafts casing, 72–73 walls
anatomy of house and, 10, 11 basement window, 74–77 anatomy of, 38
framing wall and, 517 basic casing, 78–79 anchoring partition, 38
steel, 41 basic crown molding, 110–113 building, 38–42
subbase, waterproof, 441 built-up base molding, 116–119 building wet, 42–47
subfloor built-up chair rail, 80–83 dry, 337
anatomy of house and, 10, 11 built-up crown molding, 84–89 framing, 516–521
in attic, 349 decorative door header, 114–115 framing basement foundation,
floor anatomy and, 123 stool and apron, 68–71 54–57
installing raised subfloor panels, truss joists, 515 insulation wall insulation,
124–125 trusses, 326 340–341
installing sheeting for, 514 T-spacers, 290 load-bearing, 38
sump pumps, 330 tub ledger, 451 removing non-loadbearing, 58–59
supply tubes, sizing for, 43 tub spout nipple, 451 sheathing exterior, 538–539
support beams, 10 tubs. see bathtubs water distribution pipes, sizing
support posts, 10, 11 tubular skylights, 294–295 for, 43
switchback stair with intermediate 2-foot level, 24–25 water heaters, upgrading, 336
flight, 345 two-level tile island, 392–395 water supply, 451
switchback stair with winders, 345 tying into concrete, 507 waterproof membrane, 548
waterproof paint, 333
T U webs, 326
table saw, 29 U-factor, 549 welded wire mesh, 185
tape measure, 24–25 underfloor heat systems, 130–135 wet rooms, 441
T-bevel, 24–25 underlayment, 123, 528–529 wet walls, building, 42–47
tempered glass, 200 undermount sink, 416–419 window seat, 210–217
template rafters, 523–524 understairs bookcases, 152–157 window wells, 333
test-fitting, 457 universal design, 17, 426–427, windows
three-piece tub surrounds, 456–459 441, 476 anatomy of, 12–13
tile utility knives, 26–27 basement window trim, 74–77
backsplash from, 386–389 utility lines, 498, 503 casing, Arts and Crafts style,
for bathtub platform, 464 72–73
cork, 142–145 V casing, basic, 78–79
for countertop, 381, 385 valley flashing, 533 bay, 280–289
for curbless shower, 446–449 vanity top, double-bowl, 174–177 code for, 16
for custom shower base, 434–439 vapor barriers, 280, 288 egress, 15, 268–273, 329
fireplace surround, 368–369 vent fans, 411, 488–491 framing and installing, 260–267
granite tile countertops, 192–195 vent hood, island, 396–399 framing in gable wall, 274–275
mosaic, 146–147 vent pipes, 357, 358–359 garden, 276–279
radiant heat systems under, vent-free gas fireplace, 364, 367–371 glass block, 290–293
130–135 ventilation, 16, 327, 361, 374, green choices for, 549
two-level tile island, 392–395 411–413 installing, 550–553
toilet drain, 357 vessel sinks, 480–483 installing egress, 268–273
toilets vibration pads, 66 installing round-top, 266–267
in basement bathrooms, 363 vinyl siding, 542, 544–546 measuring, 253
enclosure for, 492–495 vinyl soffit panels, 548 new sash for, 256–259
universal design and, 427 planning and preparation for, 252
tongue-and-groove sheathing, 514 W replacement, with nailing flange,
tools wainscot 263–265
construction, 26–27 frames for, 92–95 replacing basement, 254–255
layout, 24–25 jointless rail-and-stile, 102–105 stool and apron for, 68–71
power, 28–29 paneling for, 150 tubular skylights, 294–295
safety and, 22–23 raised-panel, 106–109 wood clapboard siding, 542
top plates, 10, 12, 13 walkout patio doors, 320–323 wood countertops, 383
topography, 498 wall frame moldings, 90–91 wood lap siding, 547
trees, limbing, 502 wall niche, 218–221 wood soffits, 548Proof 1
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