Masonry & Tile
Black & Decker Ceramic Tile
Source: Black & Decker Ceramic Tile.pdf
Source file: Black & Decker Ceramic Tile.pdf
HERE ’S HOW ...CERAMIC TILE Easy, Elegant Makeovers
Skills & Techniques Countertops & Backsplashes Wall & Floor Tile Tile Floors Tile Shower Base Fireplace Surround Tile Bathtub Deck and more!
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HERE ’S HOW ...CERAMIC TILE Easy, Elegant Makeovers
MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA
www.creativepub.com
ebooksdownloadrace.blogspot.inContents
1 Purchasing Materials . . .4 2 Cutting Tile … … … . .6 3 Mixing & Using 4 Tools for Cutting Tile . . .14 Mortar … … … … . .12
5 Tools for Setting & 6 Preparation Materials . .16 7 Materials for Setting & 8 Installing Grouting Tile … … . . .15 Grouting Tile … … . . .17 Underlayment … … . .18
9 Installing & Finishing 10 Installing 11 Installing Wall 12 Laying Out Wallboard … … … . .22 Cementboard … . . .24 Membranes … … . .24 Floor Designs … . . .28
13 Laying Out 14 Installing a 15 Installing a Glass 16 Building a Tiled Wall Designs … … .35 Tile Floor … … … .40 Mosaic Floor … … .48 Shower Base … … .52
17 Installing a 18 Tiling a Kitchen 19 Building a Tiled 20 Building a Tile Tile Wall … … … . .60 Backsplash … … . .68 Tub Deck… … … .72 Countertop … … . .78
21 Tilng Concrete APPENDIX: Steps … … … . . .88 Glossary … … … … … … … … … . . 94
- Purchasing Materials
B efore you can select or purchase materials, you’ll need to figure out exactly what you need and how much. Start by drawing a room layout, a reference for sometimes very attractive for full walls to be tiled. To calculate the amount of field tile required, measure each wall and multiply the width times the you and for anyone advising you about the project. height of the area to be covered. Subtract the square To estimate the amount of tile you need for a footage of doors and windows. Do this for each wall, floor project, calculate the square footage of the room then add all the figures together to calculate the total and add five percent for waste. For example, in a square footage. Add five percent for waste. Calculate 10-foot × 12-foot room, the total area is 120 square feet. the number of cartons necessary (square footage of the (12’ × 10’ = 120 sq. ft.). Add five percent, 6 square feet, project divided by the square footage contained in a for breakage and other waste (120 × .05 = 6 sq. ft.). You carton). need to purchase enough tile to cover 126 square feet. Trim for floors and walls is sold by the lineal Tile cartons generally indicate the number of foot. Measure the lineal footage and calculate based square feet one carton will cover. Divide the square on that. Plan carefully—the cost of trim tile adds up footage to be covered by the square footage contained quickly. in a carton in order to determine the number of Before buying the tiles, ask about the dealer’s cartons required for your floor project. For example, if return policy. Most dealers allow you to return a carton holds 10 square feet, you will need 13 cartons unused tiles for a refund. In any case, think of it this to cover the 10 × 12 floor in our example. way: buying a few too many tiles is a small problem. Estimating tile for a wall project is slightly more Running out of tiles when the job’s almost done could complex. Start by deciding how much of each wall will turn into disaster if you can no longer get the tile or be tiled. In a shower, plan to tile to at least 6” above the colors don’t match. the showerhead. It’s common for tile to extend 4 feet up the remaining walls, although it’s possible and
4 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
■ How to Purchase Materials
Use your room drawing to identify all the types of trim that Buy all necessary tile, tools, and materials at once to will be necessary (above). Evaluate the trim available for the avoid wasted trips and to make sure all the elements are various tiles you’re considering and select a combination that appropriate for one another and the project. meets the specifications of your project.
Design and paint your own custom tiles at many specialty Mix tile from carton to carton. Slight variations in color ceramic stores. Order tile of the right size and have them won’t be as noticeable mixed throughout the project as they bisque-fired but not glazed. You can then paint or stencil would be if the color shifts from one area to another. designs on the tile and have them fired. Look in the phone book for specialty ceramic stores.
Purchasing Materials ■ 52. Cutting Tile
C areful planning will help you eliminate unnecessary cuts, but most tile jobs require cutting at least a few tiles and some jobs require cutting a large number Other cutting tools include nippers, hand-held tile cutters, and rod saws. Nippers can be used on most types of tile, but a rod saw is most effective with wall of tiles, no matter how carefully you plan. For a few tile, which generally is fairly soft. straight cuts on light- to medium-weight tile, use a A note of caution: hand-held tile cutters and tile snap cutter. If you’re working with heavy tile or a large nippers can create razor-sharp edges. Handle freshly number of cuts on any kind of tile, a wet saw greatly cut tile carefully, and immediately round over the simplifies the job. When using a wet saw, wear safety edges with a tile stone. glasses and hearing protection. Make sure the blade is Before beginning a project, practice making in good condition and the water container is full. Never straight and curved cuts on scrap tile. use the saw without water, even for a few seconds.
■ How to Cut Tile Mark a cutting line on the tile with a 1 pencil, then place the tile in the cutter so the cutting wheel is directly over the line. While pressing down firmly on the wheel handle, run the wheel across the tile to score the surface. For a clean cut, score the tile only once.
Snap the tile along the scored line, as
2 directed by the tool manufacturer. Usually,
snapping the tile is accomplished by
depressing a lever on the tile cutter.6 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
■ How to Use a Wet Saw 1 2
Individual saws vary, so read the manufacturer’s directions Place the tile on the sliding table and lock the fence to hold for use and make sure you understand them. Refer any the tile in place, then press down on the tile as you slide it past questions to the rental center. Wear safety glasses and hearing the blade. protection; make sure water is reaching the blade at all times.
■ How to Mark Square Notches 1 2
Place the tile to be notched over the last full tile on one Move the top two tiles and spacer to the adjoining wall, side of the corner. Set another full tile against the 1⁄2” spacer making sure not to turn the tile that is being marked. Make a along the wall and trace along the opposite edge onto the second mark on the tile as in step 1. Cut the tile and install. second tile.
Cutting Tile ■ 7■ How to Cut Square Notches
Cut along the marked line on one side of the notch. Turn To cut square notches in a small number of wall tiles, clamp the tile and cut along the other line to complete the notch. To the tile down on a worktable, then use a jigsaw with a tungsten keep the tile from breaking before you’re through, slow down carbide blade to make the cuts. If you need to notch quite a as you get close to the intersection with the first cut. few tiles, a wet saw is more efficient.
To make a small number of cuts in wall tile, you can use a To make a very small notch, use tile nippers. Score the rod saw. Fit a tungsten carbide rod saw into a hacksaw body. lines and then nibble up to the lines, biting very small pieces at Firmly support the tile and use a sawing motion to cut the tile. a time.
8 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
■ How to Mark & Cut Irregular Notches 1 2
Make a paper template of the contour or use a contour Use a wet saw to make a series of closely spaced, parallel gauge. To use a contour gauge, press the gauge onto the cuts, then nip away the waste. profile and trace it onto the tile.
■ How to Make Curved Cuts 1 2
Mark a cutting line on the tile face, then use the scoring Use tile nippers to nibble away the scored portion of the tile. wheel of a hand-held tile cutter to score the cut line. Make several parallel scores, no more than 1⁄4” apart, in the waste portion of the tile.
Cutting Tile ■ 9■ How to Mark & Cut Holes in Tile 1 2 3
Align the tile to be cut with the last Place a 1⁄4” spacer against the wall Starting from the intersection of the full row of tile and butt it against the and butt the tile against it. Mark the lines at the center, draw a circle slightly pipe. Mark the center of the pipe onto pipe center on the side edge of the tile. larger than the pipe or protrusion. the front edge of the tile. Using a combination square, draw a line through each mark to the edges of the tile.
4Drill around the edges of the hole, using a ceramic tile bit. Variation: Score and cut the tile so the hole is divided in half, Gently knock out the waste material with a hammer. The rough using the straight-cut method (page 6), then use the curved- edges of the hole will be covered by a protective plate (called cut method (page 9) to remove waste material from each half an escutcheon). of the circle.
10 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
■ How to Drill Holes in Tile 1 2
Make a dimple with a center punch to break through the Select a tungsten carbide hole saw in the appropriate glaze, to keep the drill bit from wandering. size and attach it to a power drill. Place the tip at the marked center and drill the hole.
Making Specialty Cuts ▸
Score cuts on mosaic tiles
with a tile cutter in the row
where the cut will occur. Cut
away excess strips of mosaics
from the sheet, using a utility
knife, then use a handheld tile
cutter to snap tiles one at a
time. Note: Use tile nippers to
cut narrow portions of tiles
after scoring.
Cutting Tile ■ 113. Mixing & Using Mortar
T hinset mortar is a fine-grained cement product used to adhere underlayment to the subfloor and to bond ceramic tile to underlayment. Some mortars floor or wall, the ridges of the mortar should hold their shape. Mortar is spread on the underlayment or substrate include a latex additive in the dry mix, but with others, with a notched trowel. The edge of the trowel creates you’ll need to add liquid latex additive as you prepare furrows in the mortar bed, then tile is placed on the the mortar. mortar using a twisting motion. When mixing mortar, start with the dry powder As you install tiles, spread only as much mortar as and gradually add water, stirring the mixture to you can use in 10 minutes. If the mortar sits too long, achieve a creamy consistency. You want the mortar it will begin to harden and the tiles will not adhere wet enough for the tiles to stick, but not so wet to it. If it does begin to harden, scrape it up, throw it that it’s runny. Once the mortar is spread on the away, and spread new mortar.
■ How to Mix Mortar
To prepare small batches (above), add liquid, a little at To prepare large batches or a series of batches (above), use a time, to the dry powder and stir the mixture until it has a a 1⁄2” drill and a mortar mixing paddle. This job easily can burn creamy consistency. If you’re adding liquid latex additive, mix it out a standard 3⁄8” drill, so it’s worth the money to rent a heavy- in when the mixture nears the proper consistency. duty drill if you don’t have one.
12 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
■ Options for Mortaring Tile
Spread mortar evenly onto the floor, using the appropriate Butter individual tiles by applying thinset mortar directly trowel. Use the notched edge of the trowel to create furrows in to the back of the tile. Use the notched edge of the trowel to the mortar bed. furrow the mortar.
Butter each wall tile and apply it to the wall with a slight Variation: Spread the mortar on a small section of wall, then twisting motion. set the tiles into it. Thinset mortar sets quickly, so work quickly if you choose this method.
Mixing & Using Mortar ■ 134. Tools for Cutting Tile
E ven though tile is a rigid material, it can be cut to fit a variety of applications. With the proper tools, tile can be trimmed, notched, and drilled. If you’re Coping saw with rod saw blade Tile nippers planning only one tile project, consider renting the more expensive pieces of equipment. Coping saws with rod saw blades are usually adequate for cutting soft tile, such as wall tile. Tile nippers are used to create curves and circles. Tile is first marked with the scoring wheel of a hand-held tile cutter or a wet saw blade to create a cutting guide. Hand-held tile cutters are used to snap tiles one at a time. They are often used for cutting mosaic tiles after they have been scored. Hand-held tile cutter Tile stones file away rough edges left by tile nippers and hand-held tile cutters. Stones can also be used to shave off small amounts of tile for fitting. Wet saws, also called “tile saws,” employ water to cool both the blade and the tile during cutting. This Tile stone
tool is used primarily for cutting floor tile—especially natural stone tile—but it is also useful for quickly cutting large quantities of tile or notches in hard tile. Diamond blades are used on hand-held wet saws Wet saw and grinders to cut through the hardest tile materials such as pavers, marble, granite, slate, and other natural stone. Tile cutters are quick, efficient tools for scoring and cutting straight lines in most types of light- to medium-weight tile. Grinders come in handy for cutting granite and marble when equipped with a diamond blade. Cuts made with this hand tool will be less accurate than with a wet saw, so it is best used to cut tile for areas that will be covered with molding or fixtures.
Diamond
blade
Tile cutter
Grinder14 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
- Tools for Setting & Grouting Tile
L aying tile requires quick, precise work, so it’s wise to assemble the necessary supplies before you begin. You don’t want to search for a tool with wet Buff rag Grout sealer applicator
mortar already in place. Most of the tools required for setting and grouting tile are probably already in your tool box, so take an inventory before you head to the home center or hardware store. Tile spacers are essential for achieving consistent spacing between tiles. They are set at corners of laid Grout sponge tile and are later removed so grout can be applied. Grout sponges, buff rags, foam brushes, and grout sealer applicators are used after grout is applied. Grout Foam brush sponges are used to wipe away grout residue, buff rags remove grout haze, and foam brushes and grout sealer applicators are for applying grout sealer. Rubber mallet Rubber mallets are used to gently tap tiles and set them evenly into mortar. Needlenose pliers come in handy for removing spacers placed between tiles. Caulk guns are used to fill expansion joints at the Needlenose floor and base trim, at inside corners, and where tile pliers
meets surfaces made of other materials. Grout floats are used to apply grout over tile and Tile spacers into joints. They are also used to remove excess grout from the surface of tiles after grout has been applied. For mosaic sheets, grout floats are handy for gently pressing tile into mortar. Trowels are used to apply mortar to surfaces where tile will be laid and to apply mortar directly to the backs of cut tiles. Caulk gun
Trowel Grout
float
Notched
trowel
Tools for Cutting Tile ■ 156. Preparation Materials
T he type of substrate you lay for ceramic tile will depend on where your new surface will be. Where moisture will be present, cementboard or Greenboard is drywall treated to withstand occasional moisture. It is a good choice for walls in bathrooms and other humid areas. fiber/cementboard should be installed. In other areas, Plywood is a good, all-around underlayment in plywood or cork can be suitable. Over concrete, low-moisture areas. For ceramic tile installations, use isolation membrane may be required. Installing the 1 ⁄2” exterior-grade AC plywood. proper foundation for your project will help prevent Trowel-applied membrane is a paste form of cracks and deterioration in laid tile. water-proofing membrane that can be applied in areas Cork makes an excellent underlayment when that will be exposed to moisture. sound control and warmth are an issue. In areas where Mesh tape or fiberglass tape is applied to moisture may be present, a waterproof membrane or cementboard seams, then a thin layer of mortar is sealant should be applied first. applied over the tape to seal them. Fiber/cementboard is a thin, high-density Waterproofing membrane is applied over underlayment used in wet areas where floor height is existing flooring and non-water-resistant a concern. substrate in areas that will be exposed Cementboard remains stable even when exposed to moisture. to moisture, so it is a good choice for wet tile areas, Shower pan liners are used to such as bathrooms. create custom shower pans. Isolation membrane is used either in strips or as a floor underlayment to cover cracks in Trowel-applied concrete floors membrane and protect tiles from movement. Cork
Fiber/
cementboard
Waterproofing
membrane
Fiberglass
tape
Cementboard
Greenboard
Shower pan
liner
Isolation
Plywood
membrane16 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
- Materials for Setting & Grouting Tile
T o ensure your tiling project lasts, it’s important to set and grout the tile properly. Follow directions for mixing and applying mortars, fortifiers, and adhesives. Thinset mortar Then seal grout to keep your tile beautiful and long-lasting. Thinset mortar is a cement-based adhesive that is purchased in dry form and prepared by adding liquid until a creamy consistency is achieved. Some mortars Grout include a latex additive in the dry mix. Other mortars require a liquid latex additive. Grout fills the spaces between tiles and is available in pre-tinted colors to match your tile. Grout width should be considered a decorative element of your tile project. Latex fortifier is a liquid added to mortar to strengthen its bonding power. Some mortar powders include fortifier in the dry mix. Grout sealer is applied with a sponge brush to ward off stains and make tile maintenance easier. Latex Wall tile mastic is used to install base-trim tile. fortifier
Wall and floor tile adhesive is available in Wall
tile masticpre-mixed formulas. Thinset mortar is, however, recommended for most flooring installations.
Grout
sealer
Floor tile
adhesive
Preparation Materials ■ 178. Installing Underlayment
C eramic and natural stone tile floors often require an underlayment that stands up to moisture, such as cementboard. If you will use your old flooring as Plywood
underlayment, apply an embossing leveler to prepare it for the new installation (see below, right). When installing new underlayment, make sure it is securely attached to the subfloor in all areas, Fiber/cementboard including below all movable appliances. Notch the underlayment to fit room contours. Around door casings and other moldings, undercut the moldings and insert the underlayment beneath them. Plywood is typically used as an underlayment for vinyl flooring and for ceramic tile installations in Cementboard dry areas. For ceramic tile, use 1⁄2” exterior-grade AC plywood. Do not use particleboard, oriented-strand board, or treated lumber as underlayment for tile. Fiber/cementboard is a thin, high-density underlayment used under ceramic tile in situations where floor height is a concern. (For installation, Isolation follow the steps for cementboard, on page 24.) membrane Cementboard is used exclusively for ceramic or stone tile installations. It remains stable even when exposed to moisture and is therefore the best underlayment to use in areas likely to get wet, such as bathrooms. Tool Tip ▸ Isolation membrane is used to protect ceramic Embossing leveler is a mortar-like substance used for tile installations from movement that may occur on preparing well-adhered resilient flooring or ceramic tile cracked concrete floors. It is often used to cover for use as an underlayment. Mix the leveler according individual cracks, but it can also be used over an to the manufacturer’s directions, and spread it thinly entire floor. Isolation membrane is also available in a over the floor with a flat-edged trowel. Wipe away liquid form that can be poured over the project area. any excess, making sure all dips and indentations are filled. Work quickly—embossing leveler begins to set in 10 minutes. After the leveler dries, scrape away ridges and high spots with the trowel. Tools & Materials ▸ Drill Plywood underlayment Circular saw 1” deck screws Wallboard knife Floor-patching Power sander compound 1 ⁄4” notched trowel Latex additive Straightedge Thinset mortar Utility knife 11⁄2” galvanized deck Jigsaw with carbide screws blade Cementboard 1 ⁄8” notched trowel Fiberglass-mesh Flooring roller wallboard tape
18 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
■ How to Install Plywood Underlayment 1 2
Begin by installing a full sheet of plywood along the longest Continue fastening sheets of plywood to the subfloor, wall, making sure the underlayment seams will not be aligned driving the screw heads slightly below the underlayment with the subfloor seams. Fasten the plywood to the subfloor, surface. Leave 1⁄4” expansion gaps at the walls and between using 1” deck screws driven every 6” along the edges and at 8” sheets. Offset seams in subsequent rows. intervals in the field of the sheet.
3 4 5
Using a circular saw or jigsaw, Mix floor-patching compound and Let the patching compound dry, notch plywood to meet existing flooring latex or acrylic additive, according to then sand the patched areas, using a in doorways, then fasten the notched the manufacturer’s directions. Spread power sander. sheets to the subfloor. it over seams and screw heads with a wallboard knife.
Installing Underlayment ■ 19■ How to Install Cementboard 1 2
Mix thinset mortar (see page 12) according to the Fasten the cementboard to the subfloor, using 11⁄2” manufacturer’s directions. Starting at the longest wall, spread galvanized deck screws driven every 6” along edges and 8” the mortar on the subfloor in a figure-eight pattern, using a 1⁄4” throughout the sheet. Drive the screw heads flush with the notched trowel. Spread only enough mortar for one sheet at a surface. Continue spreading mortar and installing sheets along time. Set the cementboard on the mortar with the rough side the wall. up, making sure the edges are offset from the subfloor seams.
3 4 5Cut cementboard pieces as To cut holes, notches, or irregular Place fiberglass-mesh wallboard necessary, leaving a 1⁄8” gap at all joints shapes, use a jigsaw with a carbide tape over the seams. Use a wallboard and a 1⁄4” gap along the room perimeter. blade. Continue installing cementboard knife to apply thinset mortar to the For straight cuts, use a utility knife to sheets to cover the entire floor. Inset: seams, filling the gaps between sheets score a line through the fiber-mesh A flange extender or additional wax and spreading a thin layer of mortar layer just beneath the surface, then ring may be needed to ensure a proper over the tape. Allow the mortar to snap the board along the scored line. toilet installation after additional layers cure for two days before starting the of underlayment have been installed in tile installation. a bathroom.
20 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
■ How to Install Isolation Membrane 1 2
Thoroughly clean the subfloor, then apply thinset mortar Roll out the membrane over the mortar. Cut the membrane (see page 12) with a 1⁄8” notched trowel. Start spreading the to fit tightly against the walls, using a straightedge and mortar along a wall in a section as wide as the membrane utility knife. and 8 to 10 ft. long. Note: For some membranes, you must use a bonding material other than mortar. Read and follow label directions.
3 4
Starting in the center of the membrane, use a heavy Repeat steps 1 through 3, cutting the membrane as flooring roller (available at rental centers) to smooth out the necessary at the walls and obstacles, until the floor is surface toward the edges. This frees trapped air and presses completely covered with membrane. Do not overlap the out excess bonding material. seams, but make sure they are tight. Allow the mortar to cure for two days before installing the tile.
Installing Underlayment ■ 219. Installing & Finishing Wallboard
R egular wallboard is an appropriate backer for ceramic tile in dry locations. Greenboard, a moisture-resistent form of wallboard, is good for kitchens and the dry areas of bathrooms. Tub and shower surrounds and kitchen backsplashes should have a cementboard backer. Wallboard panels are available in 4 × 8-ft. or 4 × 10-ft. sheets, and in 3⁄8”, 1⁄2”, and 5⁄8” thicknesses. For new walls, 1⁄2” thick is standard. Install wallboard panels so that seams fall over the center of framing members, not at sides. Use all- purpose wallboard compound and paper joint tape to finish seams.
Tools & Materials ▸
Tape measure Screw gun
Utility knife Wallboard
Wallboard Wallboard tape
T-square 11⁄4" coarse-thread
6" and 12" wallboard screws
wallboard knives Wallboard compound Score wallboard face paper with a utility knife, using a
150-grit sanding Metal inside corner bead drywall T-square as a guide. Bend the panel away from the
sponge Taping knife scored line until the core breaks, then cut through the back
paper (inset) with a utility knife, and separate the pieces.■ How to Install and Finish Wallboard 1 2 3
Install panels with their tapered Finish the seams by applying an even Center the wallboard tape over edges butted together. Fasten with 11⁄4” bed layer of wallboard compound over the seam and lightly embed it into the wallboard screws, driven every 8” along the seam, about 1⁄8” thick, using a 6” compound, making sure it’s smooth the edges, and every 12” in the field. taping knife. and straight. Drive screws deep enough to dimple surface without ripping face paper (inset).
22 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
4 5
Smooth the tape with the taping knife. Apply enough Second-coat the seams with a thin, even layer of pressure to force compound from underneath the tape, compound, using a 12” knife. Feather the sides of the leaving the tape flat and with a thin layer underneath. Cover compound first, holding the blade almost flat and applying all exposed screw heads with the first of three coats of pressure to the outside of the blade so the blade just skims compound (inset). Let compound dry overnight. over the center of the seam.
6 Tool Tip ▸
After feathering both sides, make a pass down the center Finish any inside corners, using paper-faced of the seam, leaving the seam smooth and even, the edges metal inside corner bead to produce straight, durable feathered out even with the wallboard surface. Completely corners with little fuss. Embed the bead into a thin cover the joint tape. Let the second coat dry, then apply a third layer of compound, then smooth the paper with a coat, using the 12” knife. After the third coat dries completely, taping knife. Apply two finish coats to the corner, sand the compound lightly with a wallboard sander or a 150- then sand the compound smooth. grit sanding sponge.
Installing & Finishing Wallboard ■ 2310. Installing Cementboard
U se tile backer board as the substrate for tile walls in wet areas. Unlike wallboard, tile backer won’t break down and cause damage if water gets behind the tile. The three basic types of tile backer are Cementboard
cementboard, fiber-cement board, and Dens-Shield. Though water cannot damage either cementboard or fiber-cement board, it can pass through them. To Fiber-cement protect the framing members, install a water barrier of board 4-mil plastic or 15# building paper behind the backer. Dens-Shield has a waterproof acrylic facing that provides the water barrier. It cuts and installs much like wallboard, but it requires galvanized screws to Dens-Shield prevent corrosion and must be sealed with caulk at all untaped joints and penetrations.
Tools & Materials ▸
Utility knife Stapler
T-square Drill
Drill with a small 4-mil plastic sheeting
masonry bit Cementboard
Hammer 11⁄4" cementboard screws Common tile backers are cementboard, fiber-cementboard,
and Dens-Shield. Cementboard is made from portland cement
Jigsaw with a Cementboard joint tape and sand reinforced by an outer layer of fiberglass mesh. Fiber-
bimetal blade Latex-portland cement cement board is made similarly, but with a fiber reinforcement
Wallboard knife mortar integrated throughout the panel. Dens-Shield is a water-
Carbide-tipped 15# building paper resistant gypsum board with a waterproof acrylic facing.
cutter■ How to Install Cementboard 1 2 3
Staple a water barrier of 4-mil Cut cementboard by scoring through Make cutouts for pipes and other plastic sheeting or 15# building paper the mesh just below the surface, using penetrations by drilling a series of over the framing. Overlap seams by a utility knife or carbide-tipped cutter. holes through the board, using a several inches, and leave the sheets Snap the panel back, then cut through small masonry bit. Tap the hole out long at the perimeter. Note: Framing for the back-side mesh (inset). Note: For with a hammer or a scrap of pipe. Cut cementboard must be 16” on-center; tile applications, the rough face of the holes along edges with a jigsaw and steel studs must be 20-gauge. board is the front. bimetal blade.
24 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
4 5
Install the sheets horizontally. Where possible, use full pieces to avoid cut-and- Cover the joints and corners with butted seams, which are difficult to fasten. If there are vertical seams, stagger them cementboard joint tape (alkali-resistant between rows. Leave a 1⁄8” gap between sheets at vertical seams and corners. Use fiberglass mesh) and latex-portland spacers to set the bottom row of panels 1⁄4” above the tub or shower base. Fasten cement mortar (thinset). Apply a layer the sheets with 11⁄4” cementboard screws, driven every 8” for walls and every 6” for of mortar with a wallboard knife, embed ceilings. Drive the screws 1⁄2” from the edges to prevent crumbling. If the studs are the tape into the mortar, then smooth steel, don’t fasten within 1” of the top track. and level the mortar.
Variation: Finishing Cementboard ▸
Greenboard Paint
Paint
Joint
Ceramic tile compound
adhesive
Tape Skim-coated joint
Trim tile compound
Ceramic tile
adhesive
Grout
Cementboard
Regular
tile
Cementboard
To finish a joint between cementboard and To finish small areas of cementboard that will
greenboard, seal the joint and exposed cementboard with not be tiled, seal the cementboard with ceramic tile
ceramic tile adhesive, a mixture of four parts adhesive to adhesive, a mixture of four parts adhesive to one part
one part water. Embed paper joint tape into the adhesive, water, then apply a skim-coat of all-purpose wallboard
smoothing the tape with a tape knife. Allow the adhesive joint compound, using a 12" wallboard knife. Then paint
to dry, then finish the joint with at least two coats of all- the wall.
purpose wallboard joint compound.
Installing Cementboard ■ 2511. Installing Wall Membranes
W all membranes may provide waterproofing or isolation from small underlayment movement, or both. Because water does not sit on wall spanned and the type of substrate on which it can be used. It is important to apply isolation membrane to surfaces as it does on floors, waterproofing of walls concrete walls to prevent hairline cracks from being is not as critical. In most cases, plastic sheeting transferred outward to the tile or grout surface. or building paper behind cement backer board Some products combine waterproofing and isolation is sufficient. Saunas and steam rooms may need properties. The tile adhesive is applied directly to the additional waterproofing. isolation membrane after it has cured. Isolation membrane comes in roll- or trowel-on Be sure to check for compatibility between the forms as well as in sheet form. It can be applied roll- or trowel-on membranes and your particular to existing cracks or potential areas of movement. application needs. Fountains and pools have specific Check the product directions for the maximum waterproofing needs—check with your tile dealer if width crack or expansion joint that can be you plan on using wall tile for a pool wall.
Plastic sheeting, sheet membrane, building paper, and trowel-applied membrane are all options for adding waterproofing to walls. Isolation membranes in strips or sheets also protect tile surfaces from cracking caused by small movements in the underlayment.
26 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
A water barrier of 4-mil plastic sheeting can be stapled to Building paper (15#) can also be used as a water barrier studs before installing cementboard or fiber-cement board. behind cementboard and fiber-cement board. Start from the bottom and install horizontally so each layer overlaps the previous one by two inches.
Waterproofing/isolation membranes are an easy way Isolation membrane may be used on wall and ceiling to add waterproofing and crack protection to existing walls. surfaces in areas such as steam rooms and saunas that This application is especially suited to smooth, solid concrete have extreme temperature fluctuation and high humidity. surfaces. The tile adhesive is applied directly to the membrane The membrane is typically installed with mortar, but some after it dries. membranes must be used with a specific bonding agent.
Installing Wall Membranes ■ 2712. Laying Out Floor Designs
O nce you have a stable, firm, smooth substrate in place, the next step is laying out the project. While it might be tempting to go directly to laying and detailed scale drawings. Use these drawings to experiment with potential layouts until you’re satisfied. Try to: the tile, resist the temptation. Planning is a very important step in the process and one that pays • Center the tile within the room and keep the final off in the long run. There are few things more tiles at opposite sides equal in size. frustrating than running into issues that could have • Minimize the number of cuts required. been avoided through a little more attention to • Disguise disparities in rooms that are not square. detail on the front end. A tile floor essentially is a giant grid, and Laying out borders, diagonal sets, or running imperfections can be quite obvious, especially if the bonds involves a few special considerations that are grout contrasts sharply with the tile. also discussed in the following pages. Good layouts start with accurate measurements
28 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
■ Drawing Layouts for Floor Designs It’s not necessary to draw layouts for projects in small, scale as you used for the room diagram, draw layouts square rooms with no tricky issues. On the other hand, until you find one that works. Sometimes there’s no drawings are helpful for projects in rooms that have more way to avoid narrow tiles at the edges. In that case, than four corners or are more than an inch out of square, plan to put them along the least visible wall in the and for projects that involve several adjacent rooms. room or in areas that will be covered with furniture To start, measure the room. Figure out a scale or fixtures. that’s easy to use—one square per tile for larger-scale Confirm your calculations by testing the layout. graph paper or four squares per tile on smaller-scale No matter how careful you are, it’s possible to make graph paper—and draw the room. Make several copies mistakes when you’re working with drawings and of the drawing so you can experiment with layouts measurements. It’s much better to discover any without redoing it. miscalculations before setting any tile or spreading any Next, lay out at least 10 tiles with spacers and mortar. Lay out one complete row of full-sized tile in measure them. Add the thickness of one grout line and at least two directions. Adjust the layout as necessary. divide the total by 10 to calculate the exact size of one If the layout is complicated or involves lots of tile with grout. Using this calculation and the same cuts, it’s worth the time to dry-fit the entire floor.
■ How to Test Corners for Square To get accurate room measurements, start in a corner of the room and measure along the wall to the opposite corner. Do this for each wall, writing down the measurements as you go. When measuring to locate permanent obstacles or fixtures, pick a point and take all measurements from it. That way you’ll have a constant reference point when you diagram the room.
Check for square by measuring a corner.
On one wall, mark a spot 3 feet from the
corner; on the other wall, mark a spot 4
feet from the corner. Measure between
the marks. If the distance between the
marks is exactly 5 feet, the room is square.
For greater accuracy in larger rooms, use
multiples of 3, 4, and 5 such as 6, 8, and
10, or 9, 12, and 15.
Laying Out Floor Designs ■ 29■ How to Lay Out Floor Designs
Diagram the entire room, drawing it to scale including Make a story stick to help you estimate how many tiles will any permanent fixtures such as cabinets and stairways. fit in a given area. Lay out a row of tile, with spacers, and set Draw possible tile layouts, at the same scale as your room an 8-ft.-long 1 × 2 next to it. (Position the end of the 1 × 2 in drawing, on transparency paper and place them over the the center of a grout line.) Holding the board in place, mark the room diagram. Experiment with layouts until you find a edges of each grout line. successful arrangement.
Space between
wall and tile
Vertical row
Horizontal row
Tiles
SpacersTest the layout by setting out one vertical and one horizontal Dry-lay the tile if you’re working with a complex layout, tiling row of tile, all the way to the walls in both directions. around a series of obstacles, or setting tiles on the diagonal. You may find that you need to shift the layout slightly to keep from cutting very small tile for edges or corners.
30 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
■ Establishing Reference Lines for Floor Designs Reference lines are used as guides for the first tiles Another way to help keep the tile straight is laid. Before you snap these lines, think about where to by using a batten, which is nothing more than a start tiling. The goal is to work it out so that you don’t long, straight board used as a guide. A piece of need to step on recently laid tile in order to continue plywood works well if you maintain the factory working. It often makes sense to start in the middle of edge. Just position the board and tack it in place, a room, but not always—sometimes it’s better to start using several screws. Butt the first row of tile up a few feet from a wall and work your way across the to it and leave it in place until the mortar starts room. If a room has only one door, start at the far end to dry. Remove the batten and continue setting and move toward the door. Give some thought to the tile. Maintaining even spacing will maintain the issue and make sure you don’t tile yourself into a corner! straight lines.
■ How to Mark Reference Lines for Straight Sets Position a reference line (X) by 1 measuring between opposite sides of the room and marking the center of each side. Snap a chalk line between these marks.
x
Measure and mark the centerpoint2 of the chalk line. From this point, use a framing square to establish a second line perpendicular to the first. Snap a second reference line (Y) across the room.
y
x
Laying Out Floor Designs ■ 31■ How to Mark Reference Lines for Diagonal Sets 1 2
Snap reference lines that meet in the exact center of the Snap lines to connect the marked points. The sides of the room. Make sure the lines are perpendicular, then mark a point resulting square will be tilted at a 45° angle to the room. Use on each line precisely the same distance from the center. the square to create working lines for laying out the room.
■ How to Mark Reference Lines for Running Bond Sets 1 2
Snap perpendicular reference lines as described on page Use this measurement to snap a series of equally 31. Dry-fit a few tiles side by side, using spacers. Offset the spaced parallel lines to help keep your tiles straight during rows by a measurement that’s equal to one-half the length of installation. (Running-bond layouts are most effective with the tile and one-half the width of the grout line. Measure the rectangular tiles.) total width of the dry-fitted section.
32 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
■ Planning Borders & Design Areas A border can divide a floor into sections or it can define a design area such as the one shown at right. You can create a design inside the border by merely turning the tiles at a 45° angle, by installing decorative tiles, or by creating a mosaic. Such designs should cover between 25 and 50 percent of the floor. If the design is too small, it’ll get lost in the floor. If it’s too big, it’ll be distracting. Determine the size and location of the border on graph paper, then transfer those measurements onto the floor. A dry run with the border and field tile is essential. The tile is installed in three stages. The border is placed first, followed by outside field tile, then the tile within the border.
■ How to Lay Out a Border Measure the length and width of 1 the room in which you’ll be installing the border.
Transfer the measurements onto
paper by making a scale drawing of the2 room. Include the locations of cabinets, doors, permanent fixtures, and furniture.
Laying Out Floor Designs ■ 33
3 4Determine the size of the border you want. Bordered Place the transparency of the border over the room designs should be between 1⁄4 and 1⁄2 the area of the room. drawing. Move it around to find the best layout. Tape the Draw the border on transparency paper, using the same scale border transparency in place over the room drawing. Draw as the room drawing. perpendicular lines through the center of the border and calculate the distance from the center lines to the border.
5 6Transfer the measurements from the border transparency Lay out the border along the reference lines in a dry run. onto your floor, starting with your center lines. Snap chalk lines Do a dry run of the field tiles inside and outside of the border to establish your layout for the border. along the center lines. Make any adjustments, if necessary.
34 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
- Laying Out Wall Designs
W all projects can be challenging because walls are so rarely plumb and true. In some cases, that means the walls themselves need to be adjusted Use the drawing to experiment with potential arrangements. The goal is to arrive at a layout that gives the walls a balanced, symmetrical look. before the tile portion of the project begins. Most of the time, though, it simply means being aware of the • Center the tile within the room and keep the final issues and working around them as discussed in the tiles at opposite sides equal in size. following pages. (If your walls need work before you • Minimize the number of cuts required and avoid begin tiling them, consult pages 22 to 27 for ideas and cutting very narrow pieces of tile. information.) • Disguise disparities on walls that are not square. Layout is critical to successful wall projects. Start • Plan effective placement of borders, liners, with accurate measurements and draw the room to scale. and trim.
Laying Out Wall Designs ■ 35■ Drawing Layouts for Wall Designs It may not be necessary to draw layouts for small, fixtures such as bathtubs. (Figure out a scale simple projects, but it’s a good idea if you’re tiling that’s easy to use—one square per tile for larger- more than one wall, creating designs or borders, or scale graph paper or four squares per tile on working with walls that aren’t plumb or a room that’s smaller-scale graph paper.) Make several copies out of square by more than an inch. Start by checking of the drawing so you can experiment with layouts to see whether the walls are plumb. Place a carpenter’s without redrawing it. level along the edge of a straight board, then place the Double check the size of your tile, including board against the walls and on the floor at the bottom borders or accent tiles, and begin evaluating layouts. of the walls. If a wall is out of square by more than The goal is to make the room look balanced and 1 ⁄4” per 8 feet, you’ll need to add moldings, build up to place cut tile in the least visible positions. For the wall with joint compound, or trim the tiles in a example, if the height of a wall above a sink or bathtub way that makes the imperfection less obvious. Check can’t be covered in full tile, it’s best to put cut tile on outside corners for plumb and make careful note of the bottom row so that the top row (which is more any problems. visible) is composed of full tile. If you’re adding Now, measure and draw the walls on graph accents, position them so that the repeating pattern is paper, including windows, doors, and permanent even or at least balanced across the wall.
■ How to Draw a Tile Layout for Wall Designs 1 2
Check the walls and corners to see if they’re plumb. Make Measure the walls, paying particular attention to the any adjustments necessary before beginning your tile project. placement of windows, doors, and permanent fixtures. Use these measurements to create a scale drawing of each wall to be tiled.
36 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
3 4
Lay out your tiles, accents, and trim. Take measurements of Draw your tile layout to scale on the wall drawing to the tile layout. establish your reference lines.
■ Testing Wall Layouts Establishing perpendicular reference lines is a critical tile and the wall is too narrow, adjust your starting part of every tile project, including wall projects. To point. Continue to dry-fit tile along the walls, paying create these lines, measure and mark the midpoint at special attention to any windows, doors, or permanent the top and bottom of the wall, and then again along fixtures in the wall. If you end up with very narrow each side. Snap chalk lines between opposite marks tiles anywhere, adjust the reference lines (and your to create your vertical and horizontal centerlines. Use layout) to avoid them. It’s best not to cut tiles by more the 3-4-5 triangle method to make sure the lines are than half. drawn correctly (see page 29). Adjust the lines until If your wall has an outside corner, start your dry they are exactly perpendicular. run there. Place bullnose tiles over the edges of the Next, do a dry run of your proposed layout, adjoining field tiles. If this results in a narrow gap starting at the center of the wall and working toward at the opposite wall, install trimmed tile next to the an adjoining wall. If the gap between the last full bullnose edge to even out or avoid the gap.
Measure and mark the horizontal and
vertical midpoints of the wall, then snap
chalk lines between sets of opposite
marks. Use the 3-4-5 triangle method
(see page 29) to make sure the lines are
perpendicular to one another.
Vertical
reference
line
Laying Out Wall Designs ■ 37■ How to Test a Wall Layout 1 2
Attach a batten to the wall along your horizontal reference If you end up with too narrow a gap along the wall in step 1, line, using screws. Dry-fit tiles on the batten, aligning the move over half the width of a tile by centering the middle tile middle tile with the vertical centerline. over the vertical centerline.
3 4Use a story stick (see page 30) to determine whether your Dry-fit the first row of tile, then hold a story stick along the planned layout works vertically. If necessary, adjust the size of horizontal guideline with one grout line matched to the vertical the first row of tile. reference line. Mark the grout lines, which will correspond with the grout lines of the first row and can be used as reference points.
38 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
■ How to Work Around Outside Corners 1 2
Cut
Bullnose field
Cut field tile tiles tiles
Bullnose tileOverlap field tiles with bullnose tiles on outside corners. Try Disguise walls that are badly out of plumb by installing the to use whole tiles on the corner, but if that’s not possible, plan field tile on that side, trimming them as necessary. Overlap to trim the field tiles. If the wall is slightly out of plumb and not the cut edges with bullnose tiles. Install tiles on both walls very wide, line up the bullnose tiles so they overlap the field at the same time, making sure the bullnose pieces cover the tiles evenly. cut edges.
■ How to Work Around Windows 1 2
Use a story stick to evaluate the layout around obstacles, Remove aprons (on windows that have them) and tile up to such as windows. Adjust reference lines as necessary to avoid the window, then replace the trim. Aprons are the only window cutting tiles by more than half, either vertically or horizontally. trim that can be removed and replaced in this manner.
Laying Out Wall Designs ■ 3914. Installing a Tile Floor
T ile flooring should be durable and slip-resistant. Look for floor tile that is textured or soft- glazed—for slip resistance—and has a Class or If you want to install trim tiles, consider their placement as you plan the layout. Some base-trim tile is set on the floor, with its finished edge flush with Group rating of 3, 4, or 5—for strength. Floor tile the field tile; other types are installed on top of the should also be glazed for protection from staining. field tile. If you use unglazed tile, be sure to seal it properly after installation. See pages 11 through 35 for more information on selecting floor tile. Tools & Materials ▸ Standard grouts also need stain protection. Mix your grout with a latex additive, and apply a Chalk line Foam brush grout sealer after the new grout sets, then reapply 1 ⁄4” square-notched Tile the sealer once a year thereafter. Successful tile trowel Thinset mortar installation involves careful preparation of the floor Drill Tile spacers and the proper combination of materials. For an Rubber mallet 2×4 underlayment, cementboard is the best for use over Tile-cutting tools Threshold material wood subfloors in bathrooms, since it is stable and Needlenose pliers Grout undamaged by moisture (page 24). Thinset is the Utility knife Latex additive most common adhesive for floor tile. It comes as Grout float (mortar and grout) a dry powder that is mixed with water. Premixed Grout sponge Grout sealer organic adhesives generally are not recommended Buff rag Silicone caulk for floors.
A
C
B
Trim and finishing materials for tile installations include
base-trim tiles (A), which fit around the room perimeter, and
bullnose tiles (B), used at doorways and other transition areas.
Doorway thresholds (C) are made from synthetic materials
as well as natural materials, such as marble, and come in
thicknesses ranging from 1⁄4" to 3⁄4" to match different floor levels.40 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
■ How to Install Cementboard Underlayment Starting at the longest wall, spread 1 thinset mortar on the subfloor in a figure- eight pattern. Spread only enough mortar for one sheet at a time. (See pages 12 to 13 for a full description of how to mix and apply thinset mortar.) Set the cementboard on the mortar with the rough side up, making sure the edges are offset from the subfloor seams.
2 Establishing Reference Lines for Floor Tile Installation ▸ To establish reference lines, position the first line (X) between the centerpoints of opposite sides of the room. Snap a chalk line between these points. Next, establish a second line perpendicular to the first. Snap a second reference line (Y) across the room. Make sure the lines are exactly perpendicular, using the 3-4-5 triangle method. (For a full description of establishing perpendicular reference lines for floor projects, see page 31).
Y
3 ft.
X
°
90
4 ft.
.
ft
5Fasten cementboard to the subfloor, using 11⁄2” cementboard screws. Drive the screw heads flush with the surface. Continue spreading mortar and installing sheets along the wall, leaving a 1⁄8” gap at all joints and a 1⁄4” gap along the room perimeter. (See page 24 for full description of installing cementboard).
Installing a Tile Floor ■ 41■ How to Install a Tile Floor 1 2
Draw reference lines and dry-fit full tiles along both lines, Set the first tile in the corner of the quadrant where the adjusting the layout as necessary. Mix a batch of thinset reference lines intersect. When setting tiles that are 8” square mortar (see pages 12 to 13), and spread it evenly against both or larger, twist each tile slightly as you set it into position. reference lines of one quadrant. Use the notched edge of the trowel to create furrows in the mortar bed. Note: For large or uneven tiles, you may need a trowel with 3⁄8” or larger notches.
3 4Using a soft rubber mallet, gently Variation: For mosaic sheets, use To ensure consistent spacing rap the central area of each tile a few a 3⁄16” V-notched trowel to spread the between tiles, place plastic tile spacers times to set it evenly into the mortar. mortar, and use a grout float to press at the corners of the set tile. Note: With the sheets into the mortar. Apply mosaic sheets, use spacers equal to the pressure gently to avoid creating an gaps between tiles. uneven surface.
42 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
5 6
Set tiles into the mortar along the reference lines. Make Measure and mark tiles for cutting to fit against walls and sure the tiles fit neatly against the spacers. To make sure the into corners, then cut the tiles to fit, following the tips on pages tiles are level with one another, lay a straight piece of 2 × 4 6 to 11. Apply thinset mortar directly to the back of the cut across several tiles, and rap the board with a mallet. Lay tile in tiles, instead of the floor, using the notched edge of the trowel the remaining area covered with mortar. Repeat steps 1 through to furrow the mortar. Set the tiles. 5, working in small sections, until you reach walls or fixtures.
7 8 9
Measure, cut, and install tiles Remove the spacers with needlenose Install threshold material in requiring notches or curves to fit around pliers before the mortar hardens. doorways. Set the threshold in thinset obstacles, such as exposed pipes or Inspect the joints and remove high mortar so the top is even with the tile. toilet drains. spots of mortar that could show through Use the same spacing used for the tiles. the grout, using a utility knife. Install tile Let the mortar cure for at least 24 hours. in the remaining quadrants, completing one quadrant at a time.
(continued)
Installing a Tile Floor ■ 43
10 11Mix a small batch of grout, following the manufacturer’s Use the grout float to remove excess grout from the surface directions. (For unglazed or stone tile, add a release agent to of the tile. Wipe diagonally across the joints, holding the float in prevent the grout from bonding to the tile surfaces.) Starting a nearly vertical position. Continue applying grout and wiping in a corner, pour the grout over the tile. Spread the grout off excess until about 25 sq. ft. of the floor has been grouted. outward from the corner, pressing firmly on the grout float to completely fill the joints. For best results, tilt the float at a 60° angle to the floor and use a figure-eight motion.
12 13Remove excess grout by wiping a damp grout sponge After the grout has cured completely (check the diagonally over about 2 sq. ft. of the tile at a time. Rinse the manufacturer’s instructions), apply grout sealer to the grout sponge in cool water between wipes. Wipe each area only lines, using a small sponge brush or sash brush. Avoid once; repeated wiping can pull grout from the joints. Repeat brushing sealer onto the tile surfaces. Wipe up any excess steps 10 through 12 to apply grout to the rest of the floor. Allow sealer immediately. the grout to dry for about 4 hours, then use a soft cloth to buff the tile surface and remove any remaining grout film.
44 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
■ How to Install Base & Trim Tile 1 2
Dry-fit the trim tiles to determine the best spacing (grout Leaving a 1⁄8” expansion gap between tiles at corners, mark lines in base tile do not always align with grout lines in the any contour cuts necessary to allow the coved edges to fit floor tile). Use rounded bullnose tiles at outside corners, and together. Use a jigsaw with a tungsten carbide blade to make mark tiles for cutting as needed. curved cuts.
3 4 5
Begin installing base-trim tiles at At outside corners, use a double- After the adhesive dries, grout the an inside corner. Use a notched trowel bullnose tile on one side to cover the vertical joints between tiles, and apply to apply wall-tile adhesive to the back edge of the adjoining tile. grout along the tops of the tiles to make of each tile. Slip 1⁄8” spacers under the a continuous grout line. After the grout tiles to create an expansion joint. Set cures, fill the expansion joint at the the tiles by pressing them firmly onto bottom of the tiles with silicone caulk. the wall.
Installing a Tile Floor ■ 45■ How to Set a Running Bond Tile Pattern 1 2 3
AStart running bond tile by dry-fitting Starting at a point where the layout Continue setting tiles, filling one tile to establish working reference lines. lines intersect, spread thinset mortar quadrant at a time. Use the parallel Dry-fit a few tiles side by side using to a small section and lay the first reference lines as guides to keep the spacers. Measure the total width of the row of tiles. Apply mortar directly to rows straight. Immediately wipe away fitted section (A). Use this measurement the underside of any tiles that extend any mortar from the surface of the to snap a series of equally spaced outside the mortar bed. Offset the next tiles. When finished, allow the mortar to parallel lines to help keep your tiles row by a measurement that’s equal to cure, then grout and clean the tile (see straight during installation. one-half the length of the tile and one- page 44). half the width of the grout line.
■ How to Set Hexagonal Tile 1 2
B
ASnap perpendicular reference lines on the underlayment. Apply thinset mortar to small sections at a time and begin Lay out three or four tiles in each direction along the layout setting tile. Apply mortar directly to the underside of any tiles lines. Place plastic spacers between the tiles to maintain even that extend outside the mortar bed. Continue setting the tiles, spacing. Measure the length of this layout in both directions (A using the grid layout and spacers to keep the tiles aligned. and B). Use measurement A to snap a series of equally spaced Wipe off any mortar from the tile surface. When finished, allow parallel lines across the entire floor, then do the same for the mortar to set, then grout. measurement B in the other direction.
46 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
■ How to Set a Diagonal Pattern within a Border 1 2
Plan your border layout in the room (see pages 28 to 34). Draw diagonal layout lines at a 45° angle to the Dry-fit border tiles with spacers in the planned area. Make perpendicular reference lines. sure the border tiles are aligned with the reference lines. Dry-fit tiles at the outside corners of the border arrangement. Adjust the tile positions as necessary to create a layout with minimal cutting. When the layout of the tiles is set, snap chalk lines around the border tiles and trace along the edges of the outside tiles. Install the border tiles.
Use standard tile-setting techniques3 to set field tiles inside the border. Kneel on a wide board to distribute your weight if you need to work in a tiled area that has not cured overnight.
Installing a Tile Floor ■ 4715. Installing a Glass Mosaic Floor
T hroughout history, mosaic tile has been more than a floor or wall covering—it’s been an art form. In fact, the Latin origins of the word mosaic refer to art It’s also important to know that adhesive made for other tile may not work with glass or specialty mosaic tile. Consult your tile retailer for advice on the right “worthy of the muses.” Mosaic tile is beautiful and mortar or mastic for your project. Before you start, durable, and working with it is easier than ever today. clean and prepare the floor. Measure the room and Modern mosaic floor tile is available in squares that draw reference lines (page 31). Lay out sheets of tile are held together by an underlayer of fabric mesh. along both the vertical and horizontal reference lines. These squares are set in much the same way as larger If these lines will produce small or difficult cuts at the tile, but their flexibility makes them slightly more edges, shift them until you’re satisfied with the layout. difficult to hold, place, and move. The instructions given with this project simplify the handling of these squares. Some manufacturers stabilize mosaic squares with Tools & Materials ▸ a paper facing on the front of the square. Most facings of this type can be removed with warm water, which Tape measure Mosaic tile we describe here. However, this can vary, so be sure Chalk line Tile adhesive to read and follow manufacturer’s recommendations 1 ⁄4” notched trowel Tile spacers regarding this facing and its removal. Grout float Grout The colors of mosaic tile shift just as much Grout sponge Latex additive as any other tile, so make sure all the boxes you Buff rag Grout sealer buy are from the same lot and batch. Colors often Sponge applicator Tile clippers vary from one box to another, too, but mixing tile Needlenose pliers 2×4 from boxes makes any shifts less noticeable.
48 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
■ How to Install a Glass Mosaic Floor 1 2
Beginning at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical Stabilize a sheet of tile by randomly inserting three or four lines, apply the recommended adhesive in one quadrant. plastic spacers into the open joints. Spread it outward evenly with a notched trowel. Lay down only as much adhesive as you can cover in 10 to 15 minutes.
Pick up diagonally opposite corners of3 the square and move it to the intersection of the horizontal and vertical references lines. Align the sides with the reference lines and gently press one corner into place on the adhesive. Slowly lower the opposite corner, making sure the sides remain square with the reference lines. Massage the sheet into the adhesive, being careful not to press too hard or twist the sheet out of position. Continue setting tile, filling in one square area after another.
(continued)
Installing a Glass Mosaic Floor ■ 49
4 5When two or three sheets are in place, lay a scrap of When you’ve tiled up close to the wall or another 2 × 4 wrapped in carpet across them and tap it with a rubber boundary, lay a full mosaic sheet into position and mark it for mallet to set the fabric mesh into the adhesive and force out trimming. If you’ve planned well and are installing small-tile any trapped air. mosaics, you can often avoid the need to cut tiles.
6 7If you do need to cut tiles in the mosaic sheet, and not just After you’ve scored the tiles, cut them each individually the backing, score the tiles with a tile cutter. Be sure the tiles with a pair of tile nippers. are still attached to the backing. Add spacers between the individual tiles to prevent them from shifting as you score.
50 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
8 9
Set tile in the remaining quadrants. Let the adhesive Mosaic tile has a much higher ratio of grout to tile than cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Remove larger tiles do, so it is especially important to seal the grout spacers with a needlenose pliers. Mix a batch of grout and fill with a quality sealer after it has cured. the joints (see page 44). Allow the grout to dry, according to manufacturer’s instructions.
Working Around Obstacles ▸
1 2
To work around pipes and other obstructions, Set the cut sheet into an adhesive bed, and then cut
cut through the backing to create an access point for small pieces of tile and fit them into the layout as necessary.
the sheet. Then, remove the tiles within the mosaic
sheet to clear a space large enough for the pipe or
other obstruction.
Installing a Glass Mosaic Floor ■ 5116. Building a Tiled Shower Base
B uilding a custom-tiled shower base lets you choose the shape and size of your shower rather than having its dimensions dictated by available products. Tools & Materials ▸ Building the base is quite simple, though it does require Tape measure 3-piece shower drain time and some knowledge of basic masonry techniques Circular saw PVC primer because the base is formed primarily using mortar. What Hammer PVC cement you get for your time and trouble can be spectacular. Utility knife Galvanized finish nails Before designing a shower base, contact your local Stapler Galvanized metal lath building department regarding code restrictions and 2-ft. level Thick-bed floor mortar to secure the necessary permits. Most codes require Mortar mixing box (“deck mud”) water controls to be accessible from outside the Trowel Latex mortar additive shower and describe acceptable door positions and Wood float Laminating adhesive operation. Requirements like these influence the size Felt-tip marker CPE waterproof and position of the base. Ratchet wrench membrane & Choosing the tile before finalizing the design lets Expandable stopper preformed dam you size the base to require mostly full tile. Showers Drill corners are among the most frequently used amenities in Tin snips CPE membrane the average home, so it really makes sense to build Torpedo level solvent glue one that is comfortable and pleasing to your senses. Tools for installing tile CPE membrane Consider using small tile and gradate the color from (page 56) sealant top to bottom or in a sweep across the walls. Or, 2 × 4 and 2 × 10 Cementboard use trim tile and listellos on the walls to create an framing lumber and materials interesting focal point. 16d galvanized for installing Whatever tile you choose, remember to seal the common nails cementboard grout in your new shower and to maintain it carefully 15# building paper Materials for over the years. Full, water-resistant grout protects the Staples installing tile structure of the shower and prolongs its useful life.
52 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
Top of CPE membrane
No fasteners below
top of CPE membrane
Floor mortar
Metal lath
Floor mortar
CPE membrane
Floor mortar
Subfloor
Metal lath
Tar paper
3-piece
drain
Tile
spacers
Shown cut away
for clarityTips for Building a Custom Shower Base ▸ A custom-tiled shower base is built in three layers to ensure proper water drainage: the pre pan, the shower pan, and the shower floor. A mortar pre pan is first built on top of the subfloor, establishing a slope toward the drain of 1⁄4” for every 12” of shower floor. Next, a waterproof chlorinated polyethylene (CPE) membrane forms the shower pan, providing a watertight seal for the shower base. Finally, a second mortar bed reinforced with wire mesh is installed for the shower floor, providing a surface for tile installation. If water penetrates the tiled shower floor, the shower pan and sloped pre pan will direct it to the weep holes of the 3-piece drain. One of the most important steps in building a custom-tiled shower base is testing the shower pan after installation (step 13). This allows you to locate and fix any leaks to prevent costly damage.
Building a Tiled Shower Base ■ 53■ How to Build a Custom-tiled Shower Base 1 2
Remove building materials to expose subfloor and stud Staple 15# building paper to the subfloor of the shower walls. Cut three 2 × 4s for the curb and fasten them to the base. Disassemble the 3-piece shower drain and glue the floor joists and the studs at the shower threshold with 16d bottom piece to the drain pipe with PVC cement. Partially galvanized common nails. Also cut 2 × 10 lumber to size and screw the drain bolts into the drain piece, and stuff a rag into install in the stud bays around the perimeter of the shower the drain pipe to prevent mortar from falling into the drain. base.
3 4Mark the height of the bottom drain piece on the wall Staple galvanized metal lath over the building paper; cut farthest from the center of the drain. Measure from the center a hole in the lath 1⁄2” from the drain. Mix floor mortar (or “deck of the drain straight across to that wall, then raise the height mud”) to a fairly dry consistency, using a latex additive for mark 1⁄4” for every 12” of shower floor to slope the pre pan strength; mortar should hold its shape when squeezed (inset). toward the drain. Trace a reference line at the height mark Trowel the mortar onto the subfloor, building the pre pan from around the perimeter of the entire alcove, using a level. the flange of the drain piece to the height line on the perimeter of the walls.
54 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
5 6
Continue using the trowel to form Measure the dimensions of the shower floor, and mark it out on a sheet of CPE the pre pan, checking the slope using waterproof membrane, using a felt-tipped marker. From the floor outline, measure a level and filling any low spots with out and mark an additional 8” for each wall and 16” for the curb end. Cut the mortar. Finish the surface of the pre membrane to size, using a utility knife and straightedge. Be careful to cut on a clean, pan with a wood float until it is even smooth surface to prevent puncturing the membrane. Lay the membrane onto the and smooth. Allow the mortar to shower pan. cure overnight.
7 8
Measure to find the exact location of the drain and mark Apply CPE sealant around the drain. Fold the membrane it on the membrane, outlining the outer diameter of the drain along the floor outline. Set the membrane over the pre flange. Cut a circular piece of CPE membrane roughly 2” larger pan so the reinforced drain seal is centered over the drain than the drain flange, then use CPE membrane solvent glue to bolts. Working from the drain to the walls, carefully tuck the weld it into place and reinforce the seal at the drain. membrane tight into each corner, folding the extra material into triangular flaps.
(continued)
Building a Tiled Shower Base ■ 55
9 10Apply CPE solvent glue to one side, press the flap flat, then At the shower curb, cut the membrane along the studs so staple it in place. Staple only the top edge of the membrane to it can be folded over the curb. Solvent-glue a dam corner at the blocking; do not staple below the top of the curb, or on the each inside corner of the curb. Do not fasten the dam corners curb itself. with staples.
11 12At the reinforced drain seal on the membrane, locate and Use a utility knife to carefully cut away only enough of the mark the drain bolts. Press the membrane down around the membrane to expose the drain and allow the middle drain bolts, then use a utility knife to carefully cut a slit just large piece to fit in place. Remove the drain bolts, then position enough for the bolts to poke through. Push the membrane the middle drain piece over the bolt holes. Reinstall the bolts, down over the bolts. tightening them evenly and firmly to create a watertight seal.
56 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
13 14
Test the shower pan for leaks overnight. Place a balloon Install cementboard on the alcove walls, using 1⁄4” wood tester in the drain below the weep holes, and fill the pan with shims to lift the bottom edge off the CPE membrane. To water, to 1” below the top of the curb. Mark the water level and prevent puncturing the membrane, do not use fasteners in the let the water sit overnight. If the water level remains the same, lower 8” of the cementboard. Cut a piece of metal lath to fit the pan holds water. If the level is lower, locate and fix leaks in around the three sides of the curb. Bend the lath so it tightly the pan using patches of membrane and CPE solvent. conforms to the curb. Pressing the lath against the top of the curb, staple it to the outside face of the curb. Mix enough mortar for the two sides of the curb.
15 16
Overhang the front edge of the curb with a straight 1× Attach the drain strainer piece to the drain, adjusting it board, so it is flush with the outer wall material. Apply mortar to a minimum of 11⁄2” above the shower pan. On one wall, to the mesh with a trowel, building to the edge of the board. mark 11⁄2” up from the shower pan, then use a level to draw Clear away excess mortar, then use a torpedo level to check a reference line around the perimeter of the shower base. for plumb, making adjustments as needed. Repeat for the Because the pre pan establishes the 1⁄4” per foot slope, this inside face of the curb. Note: The top of the curb will be measurement will maintain that slope. finished after tile is installed (step 19). Allow the mortar to cure overnight.
(continued)
Building a Tiled Shower Base ■ 57
17 18Spread tile spacers over the weep holes of the drain to Continue to add mortar, building the floor to the reference prevent mortar from plugging the holes. Mix the floor mortar, line on the walls. Use a level to check the slope, and pack then build up the shower floor to roughly half the thickness of mortar into low spots with a trowel. Leave space at the drain the base. Cut metal lath to cover the mortar bed, keeping it 1⁄2” for the thickness of the tile. Float the surface using a wood from the drain (see photo in step 18). float until it is smooth and slopes evenly to the drain. When finished, allow the mortar to cure overnight before installing the tiles.
19 20After the floor has cured, draw reference lines and Mix enough floor mortar to cover the unfinished top of the establish the tile layout, then mix a batch of thinset mortar and curb, then pack it in place between the tiles, using a trowel. install the floor tile (pages 40 to 47). At the curb, cut the tiles Screed off the excess mortar flush with the tops of the side for the inside to protrude 1⁄2” above the unfinished top of the tiles. Allow the mortar to cure, then install bullnose cap tile. curb, and the tiles for the outside to protrude 5⁄8” above the top, Install the wall tile, then grout, clean, and seal all the tile (page establishing a 1⁄8” slope so water drains back into the shower. 44). After the grout has cured fully, run a bead of silicone caulk Use a level to check the tops of the tiles for level as you work. around all inside corners to create control joints.
58 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
Design Suggestions ▸ Textured surfaces improve the safety of tile floors, especially in wet areas such as this open shower. The shower area is designated effectively by a simple shift in color and size.
The raised curb on this open shower keeps most of
the water headed toward the drain. But no matter, the
entire bathroom is tiled, so stray droplets are no problem.
Mosaic tile, with its mesh backing and small shapes,
often works well on curved walls such as the one that
forms this shower. The rectangular shape of the individual
mosaic tiles complements the shape of the post at the
corner of the shower.
Building a Tiled Shower Base ■ 5917. Installing a Tile Wall
T ile is an ideal covering for walls in kitchens and bathrooms, but there’s no reason to limit its use to those rooms. It’s not as common in North American cannot be damaged by water, though moisture can pass through it. To protect the framing, install a waterproof membrane, such as roofing felt or polyethylene homes, but in Europe tile has been used in rooms sheeting, between the framing members and the throughout the house for generations. And why not? cementboard. Be sure to tape and finish the seams Beautiful, practical, easy to clean and maintain, tile between cementboard panels before laying the tile. walls are well suited to many spaces. On the preceding See page 35 for information on planning and pages, you’ve seen some design ideas for tile walls. laying out tile walls. Now it’s time to get down to business. When shopping for tile, keep in mind that tiles that are at least 6” × 6” are easier to install than small tiles, because they require less cutting and cover more surface area. Larger tiles also have fewer grout lines Tools & Materials ▸ that must be cleaned and maintained. Check out the selection of trim and specialty tiles and ceramic Tile-cutting tools Dry-set tile mortar accessories that are available to help you customize Marker with latex additive your project. Tape measure Ceramic wall tile Most wall tile is designed to have narrow grout 4-ft. level Ceramic trim tile lines (less than 1⁄8” wide) filled with unsanded grout. Notched trowel (as needed) Grout lines wider than 1⁄8” should be filled with Mallet 2×4 sanded floor-tile grout. Either type will last longer if it Grout float Carpet scrap contains, or is mixed with, a latex additive. To prevent Grout sponge Tile grout with latex staining, it’s a good idea to seal your grout after it fully Soft cloth additive cures, then once a year thereafter. Small paintbrush Tub & tile caulk You can use standard drywall or water-resistant or foam brush Alkaline grout sealer drywall (called “greenboard”) as a backer for walls in Caulk gun Cardboard dry areas. In wet areas, install tile over cementboard. Straight 1 × 2 Story stick/pole Made from cement and fiberglass, cementboard
60 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
■ How to Set Wall Tile 1 2
Design the layout and mark the reference lines (see pages Mix a small batch of thinset mortar containing a latex 29 to 32). Begin installation with the second row of tiles above additive. (Some mortar has additive mixed in by the the floor. If the layout requires cut tiles for this row, mark and manufacturer and some must have additive mixed in cut the tiles for the entire row at one time. separately.) Cover the back of the first tile with adhesive, using a 1⁄4” notched trowel.
3Variation: Spread adhesive on a small section of the wall, Beginning near the center of the wall, apply the tile to the then set the tiles into the adhesive. Thinset adhesive sets wall with a slight twisting motion, aligning it exactly with the quickly, so work quickly if you choose this installation method. horizontal and vertical reference lines. When placing cut tiles, position the cut edges where they will be least visible.
(continued)
Installing a Tile Wall ■ 61
4 5Continue installing tiles, working from the center to the As small sections of tile are completed, “set” the tile by sides in a pyramid pattern. Keep the tiles aligned with the laying a scrap of 2 × 4 wrapped with carpet onto the tile and reference lines. If the tiles are not self-spacing, use plastic rapping it lightly with a mallet. This embeds the tile solidly in spacers inserted in the corner joints to maintain even grout the adhesive and creates a flat, even surface. lines. The base row should be the last row of full tiles installed. Cut tile as necessary (see pages 6 to 11).
6 7
Spacers
Tile marked
for cuttingTo mark tiles for straight cuts, begin by taping 1⁄8” spacers Install any trim tiles, such as the bullnose edge tiles shown against the surfaces below and to the side of the tile. Position above, at border areas. Wipe away excess mortar along the top a tile directly over the last full tile installed, then place a third edges of the edge tiles. Use bullnose and corner bullnose (with tile so the edge butts against the spacers. Trace the edge of the two adjacent bullnose edges) tiles at outside corners to cover top tile onto the middle tile to mark it for cutting. the rough edges of the adjoining tiles.
62 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
8 9
Let mortar dry completely (12 to 24 hours), then mix a Wipe a damp grout sponge diagonally over the tile, rinsing batch of grout containing latex additive. Apply the grout with the sponge in cool water between wipes. Wipe each area only a rubber grout float, using a sweeping motion to force it deep once; repeated wiping can pull grout from the joints. Allow the into the joints. Do not grout joints adjoining bathtubs, floors, or grout to dry for about 4 hours, then use a soft cloth to buff the room corners. These will serve as expansion joints and will be tile surface and remove any remaining grout film. caulked later.
10 11
When the grout has cured completely, use a small Seal expansion joints at the floor and corners with silicone foam brush to apply grout sealer to the joints, following the caulk. After the caulk dries, buff the tile with a dry, soft cloth. manufacturer’s directions. Avoid brushing sealer on the tile surfaces, and wipe up excess sealer immediately.
Installing a Tile Wall ■ 63■ How to Install Wall Tile in a Bathtub Alcove 1 2 Horizontal reference line
Midpoint
Tile
heightBeginning with the back wall, measure up and mark a Measure and mark the midpoint on the horizontal reference point at a distance equal to the height of one ceramic tile (if line. Using a story stick, mark along the reference line where the tub edge is not level, measure up from the lowest spot). the vertical grout joints will be located. If the story stick shows Draw a level line through this point, along the entire back that the corner tiles will be less than half of a full tile width, wall. This line represents a tile grout line and will be used as a move the midpoint half the width of a tile in either direction reference line for making the entire tile layout. and mark (shown in next step).
3 4
Vertical
reference
line
Original
midpoint
Adjusted
midpointUse a level to draw a vertical reference line through the Use the story stick to mark the horizontal grout joints along adjusted midpoint from the tub edge to the ceiling. Measure up the vertical reference line, beginning at the mark for the top from the tub edge along the vertical reference line and mark row of tiles. If the cut tiles at the tub edge will be less than half the rough height of the top row of tiles. the height of a full tile, move the top row up half the height of a tile. Note: If tiling to a ceiling, evenly divide the tiles to be cut at the ceiling and tub edge, as for the corner tiles.
64 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
5 6 Adjusted horizontal reference line
Use a level to draw an adjusted horizontal reference line Use a level to transfer the adjusted horizontal reference through the vertical reference line at a grout joint mark close line from the back wall to both side walls, then follow step 3 to the center of the layout. This splits the tile area into four through step 6 to lay out both side walls. Adjust the layout as workable quadrants. needed so the final column of tiles ends at the outside edge of the tub. Use only the adjusted horizontal and vertical reference lines for ceramic tile installation.
7 8
Mix a small batch of thinset mortar containing a latex Use the edge of the trowel to create furrows in the mortar. additive. (Some mortar has additive mixed in by the Set the first tile in the corner of the quadrant where the lines manufacturer and some must have additive mixed separately.) intersect, using a slight twisting motion. Align the tile exactly Spread adhesive on a small section of the wall, along both legs with both reference lines. When placing cut tiles, position the of one quadrant, using a 1⁄4” notched trowel. cut edges where they will be least visible.
Installing a Tile Wall ■ 65
9 10Continue installing tiles, working from the center out into the field of the quadrant. Install trim tiles, such as the bullnose Keep the tiles aligned with the reference lines and tile in one quadrant at a time. If the tiles shown above, at border areas. tiles are not self-spacing, use plastic spacers inserted in the corner joints to maintain Wipe away excess mortar along the top even grout lines (inset). The base row against the tub edge should be the last row of edges of the edge tiles. tiles installed.
11 12Mark and cut tiles to fit around all plumbing accessories Install any ceramic accessories by applying thinset mortar or plumbing fixtures. Refer to pages 6 to 11 for tile to the back side, then pressing the accessory into place. Use cutting techniques. masking tape to support the weight until the mortar dries (inset). Fill the tub with water, then seal expansion joints around the bathtub, floor, and corners with silicone caulk.
66 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
■ Variation: Tiling Bathroom Walls Layout adjusted so the row Tiles at each end of the of accent tiles is unbroken by same wall should be cut medicine cabinet. to a similar size.
Row of trimmed tiles should
be positioned near the top Tiles above tub should be full
and bottom of tiled area to size or nearly full size.
make them less obvious.Tiling an entire bathroom requires careful planning. The bathroom shown here was designed so that the tiles directly above the bathtub (the most visible surface) are nearly full height. To accomplish this, cut tiles were used in the second row up from the floor. The short second row also allows the row of accent tiles to run uninterrupted below the medicine cabinet. Cut tiles in both corners should be of similar width to maintain a symmetrical look in the room.
Bullnose border tile
Greenboard
Cut tile Cementboard
panels
Accent
Vertical tile
reference linesCabinet Vertical outlines reference lines Original reference line
Adjusted
Cut tile reference lineThe key to a successful wall-tile project is the layout. Mark the wall to show the planned location of all wall cabinets, fixtures, and wall accessories, then locate the most visible horizontal line in the bathroom, which is usually the top edge of the bathtub. Follow the steps on pages 28 to 34 to establish the layout, using a story stick to see how the tile pattern will run in relation to the other features in the room. After establishing the working reference lines, mark additional vertical reference lines on the walls every 5 to 6 tile spaces along the adjusted horizontal reference line to split large walls into smaller, workable quadrants, then install the tile. Note: Premixed, latex mastic adhesives generally are acceptable for wall tile in dry areas.
Installing a Tile Wall ■ 6718. Tiling a Kitchen Backsplash
T here are few spaces in your home with as much potential for creativity and visual impact as the 18” between your kitchen countertop and cupboards. A well-designed backsplash can transform an ordinary kitchen into something extraordinary. Tiles for the backsplash can be attached directly to wallboard or plaster and do not require backerboard. When purchasing the tile, order 10 percent extra to cover breakage and cutting. Before installing, prepare the work area by removing switch and receptacle coverplates. Protect the countertop from scratches by covering it with a drop cloth.
Tools & Materials ▸
Level Straight 1 × 2
Tape measure Wall tile
Pencil Tile spacers
Tile cutter (if needed)
Rod saw Bullnose trim tile
Notched trowel Mastic tile adhesive
Rubber grout float Masking tape
Beating block Grout
Rubber mallet Caulk
Sponge Drop cloth
Bucket Grout sealer
Tips for Planning Tile Layouts ▸
Gather planning brochures and Break tiles into fragments and Add painted mural tiles to create
design catalogs to help you create make a mosaic backsplash. Always a focal point. Mixing various tile
decorative patterns and borders for use a sanded grout for joints wider styles adds an appealing contrast.
the backsplash. than 1⁄8".68 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
■ How to Tile a Backsplash 1 2
Make a story stick by marking a board at least half as long Starting at the midpoint of the installation area, use the as the backsplash area to match the tile spacing. story stick to make layout marks along the wall. If an end piece is too small (less than half a tile), adjust the midpoint to give you larger, more attractive end pieces. Use a level to mark this point with a vertical reference line.
3
While it may appear straight, your countertop may not be level and therefore is not a reliable reference line. Run a level along the counter to find the lowest point on the countertop. Mark a point two tiles up from the low point and extend a level line across the entire work area. (continued)
Tiling a Kitchen Backsplash ■ 69
Border
FieldVariation: Diagonal layout. Mark vertical and horizontal reference lines, making sure the angle is 90°. To establish diagonal layout lines, measure out equal distances from the crosspoint, then connect the points with a line. Additional layout lines can be extended from these as needed. To avoid the numerous, unattractive perimeter cuts common to diagonal layouts, try using a standard border pattern as shown. Diagonally set a field of full tiles only, then cut enough half tiles to fill out the perimeter. Finally, border the diagonal field with tiles set square to the field.
4 5 6Apply mastic adhesive evenly to the Starting at the vertical reference line, Install a whole row along the area beneath the horizontal reference press tiles into the adhesive with a slight reference line, checking occasionally to line, using a notched trowel. Comb twisting motion. If the tiles are not self- make sure the tiles are level. Continue the adhesive horizontally with the spacing, use plastic spacers to maintain installing tiles below the first row, notched edge. even grout lines. If the tiles do not hang in trimming tiles that butt against the place, use masking tape to hold them in countertop as needed. place until the adhesive sets.
70 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
7 8 9
Apply adhesive to an area above the When the tiles are in place, make Mix the grout and apply it with a line and continue placing tiles, working sure they are flat and firmly embedded rubber grout float. Spread it over the from the center to the sides. Install trim by laying a beating block against the tiles, keeping the float at a low 30° tile, such as bullnose tile, to the edges of tile and rapping it lightly with a mallet. angle, pressing the grout deep into the rows. Remove the spacers. Allow the mastic the joints. Note: For grout joints 1⁄8” to dry for at least 24 hours, or as and smaller, be sure to use a non- directed by the manufacturer. sanded grout.
10 11
Wipe off excess grout, holding the float at a right angle to Shape the grout joints by making slow, short, passes with the tile, working diagonally so as not to remove grout from the sponge, shaving down any high spots; rinse the sponge the joints. Clean any remaining grout from the tiles with a frequently. Fill any voids by applying a dab of grout with damp sponge, working in a circular motion. Rinse the sponge your fingertip. When the grout has dried to a haze, buff the thoroughly and often. tile clean with a soft cloth. Apply a bead of caulk between the countertop and tiles. Reinstall any electrical fixtures you removed. After the grout has completely cured, you may want to apply a grout sealer to help prevent discoloration.
Tiling a Kitchen Backsplash ■ 7119. Building a Tiled Tub Deck
T he aprons that are cast into alcove bathtubs simplify the tub installation, but they often come up a bit short in the style department. One way to Tools & Materials ▸ improve the appearance of a plain apron and create Stud finder Cementboard the look of a built-in tub is simply to build and tile Tape measure Drywall screws a short wall in front of the tub. All it takes is a little Circular saw Tile simple framing and a few square feet of tile. Drill Thinset mortar The basic strategy is to construct a 2 × 4 stub Hammer Scrap of carpet wall in front of the tub apron and then tile the top Laser or Carbide paper and front of the wall. One design option is to try and carpenter’s level or wet stone match existing tile, but it’s unlikely you’ll be able to Tile cutting tools Wide painter’s tape find the exact tile unless it’s relatively new. Choosing Utility knife Grout complementary or contrasting tile is usually a better Grout float Silicone caulk bet. Specialty tile, such as listellos, pencils, and accent Grout sponge Grout sealer tile, can create a lot of impact without breaking the Buff rag Permanent marker bank because you’re covering such a small area. Ask Foam brush Notched trowel your tile retailer to direct you to families of tile with 2 × 4 lumber Rubbing alcohol multiple shapes and accessories. Construction adhesive Be sure to include a waterproof backer 21⁄2” screws (cementboard is recommended) and get a good grout seal, since the stub wall will be in a wet area.
72 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
■ How to Build a Tiled Tub Deck 1 2
Measure the distance of the tub rim from the floor, as well Cut the 2 × 4s to length for the base plate and top plate (581⁄2” as the distance from one wall to the other at the ends of the long as shown). Cut the studs (five 11” pieces as shown). Set tub. Allowing for the thickness of the tiles, create a layout for the base plate on edge and lay out the studs, spacing them the project and draw a detailed plan for your project, spacing 16” on center. Make sure the first and last studs are perfectly the studs 16” apart on center. parallel with the end of the base plate, then drive two 21⁄2” screws through the base plate and each stud.
3 4
Draw a placement line on the floor, using a permanent Drive two or three 21⁄2” screws through the studs and into marker. Spread a generous bead of construction adhesive on the room walls at each end of the stub wall. If the stub wall the bottom of the base plate. Align the base plate with the does not happen to line up with any wall studs, at least drive placement line and set it into position. Put concrete blocks two 3” deck screws toenail style through the stub wall and into or other weights between the studs to anchor the base the room wall sole plate. plate to the flooring and let the adhesive cure according to manufacturer’s instructions.
(continued)
Building a Tiled Tub Deck ■ 73
5 6Set the top plate on the stud wall and attach it, using two Cut cementboard to fit the front (141⁄2” as shown). With 21⁄2” screws for each stud. Offset the screws slightly to increase the factory-finished edge of the cementboard at the top of the strength of the assembly. The top of the stud wall should the wall, attach the cementboard to the studs, using drywall be 21⁄2” below the top of the tub. screws (see page 24).
7 8Cut cementboard to fit the top of the stub wall (31⁄2”). With Design the layout and mark reference lines (see page 31) the factory-finished edge facing the tub edge, attach the on the wall. Draw horizontal and vertical reference lines for cement board to the top plate, using drywall screws. the corner tile (used to transition from vertical to horizontal at the top stub wall edge) and the coved base tile (if your project includes them, as ours does). Lay out tile along the floor, including spacers.
74 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
9 10
Start tiling at the bottom of the wall. Lay out the bottom Beginning at the center intersection of the vertical field row of tile on the floor, using spacers if necessary. Adjust the area, apply mortar, using a notched trowel to spread it evenly. layout to make end tiles balanced in size. Mark and cut the Cover as much area as required for a few field tiles. Install the tiles as necessary, and then smooth any sharp edges with field tiles, keeping the grout lines in alignment. carbide paper or a wet stone. Mix a small batch of thinset mortar (see page 12) and install the base tiles by buttering the backs with mortar (see page 13).
11 12
Finish installing the field tiles up to the horizontal line Apply thinset mortar to the backs of the accent tiles and marking the accent tile location. install them in a straight line. The grout lines will likely not align with the field tile grout lines.
(continued)
Building a Tiled Tub Deck ■ 75
13 14Install corner tiles to create a rounded transition at the Fill in the top course of field tile on the wall face, between top edge of the wall. Install these before you install the the accent tiles and the corner tiles. If you have planned well filed tiles in the top row of the wall face or on the top of the you won’t need to trim the field tiles to fit. (If you need to cut stub wall (corner tiles are virtually impossible to cut if your tiles to create the correct wall height, choose the tiles in the measurements are off). Dry-lay the top row of tiles. Mark and first row of field tiles.) cut tile if necessary.
15 16Remove the dry-lay row of tile along the top of the wall. Mix a batch of grout and use a grout float to force it into the Shield the edge of the tub with painter’s tape, then spread joints between the tiles. Keep the space between the top field thinset adhesive on the wall and begin to lay tile. Keep the tiles and the tub clear of grout to create space for a bead of joints of the field tiles on the top aligned with the grout joints silicone caulk between the tub and tile. of the field tile on the face of the wall.
76 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
17 18
Remove excess grout and clean the tile using a damp After 24 hours, clean the area where the tile and tub meet sponge. Rinse the sponge often. with rubbing alcohol, then put tape on the edge of the tub and the face of the tile. Apply clear silicone caulk into the gap, overfilling it slightly.
19 20
Smooth the caulk with a moistened plastic straw or a When the grout has cured completely (consult moistened fingertip to create an even finish. Make sure this manufacturer’s directions), apply grout sealer to the joints. spot is well-sealed, as it is a prime spot for water to penetrate into the tub wall.
Building a Tiled Tub Deck ■ 7720. Building a Tile Countertop
C eramic and porcelain tile remain popular choices for countertops and backsplashes for a number of reasons: It’s available in a vast range of sizes, styles, of plywood (of any thickness) beneath the substrate. Two layers of 3⁄4” exterior-grade plywood without cementboard is also an acceptable substrate. and colors; it’s durable and repairable; and some tile— You can purchase tiles made specifically to serve not all—is reasonably priced. With careful planning, as backsplashes and front edging. While the color and tile is also easy to install, making a custom countertop texture may match, these tiles usually come in only a good do-it-yourself project. one length, making it difficult to get your grout lines The best tile for most countertops is glazed to align with the field tiles. You can solve this problem ceramic or porcelain floor tile. Glazed tile is better by cutting your own edging and backsplash tiles from than unglazed because of its stain resistance, and floor field tiles (see step 5, page 70). tile is better than wall tile because it’s thicker and more durable. While glazing protects tile from stains, the grout Tools & Materials ▸ between tiles is still vulnerable because it’s so porous. To minimize staining, use a grout that contains a latex Tape measure Tile spacers additive, or mix the grout using a liquid latex additive. Circular saw 3 ⁄4” exterior-grade After the grout cures fully, apply a quality grout sealer, Drill (CDX) plywood and reapply the sealer once a year thereafter. Choosing Utility knife 4-mil polyethylene larger tiles reduces the number of grout lines. Straightedge sheeting Although the selection is a bit limited, if you choose Stapler Packing tape 13” × 13” floor tile, you can span from the front to the Drywall knife 1 ⁄2” cementboard back edge of the countertop with a single seam. Framing square 11⁄4” galvanized deck screws The countertop in this project has a substrate of Notched trowel Fiberglass mesh tape 3 ⁄4” exterior-grade plywood that’s cut to fit and fastened Tile cutter Thinset mortar to the cabinets. The plywood is covered with a layer of Carpeted 2 × 4 Grout with latex additive plastic (for a moisture barrier) and a layer of 1⁄2”-thick Mallet Silicone caulk cementboard. Cementboard is an effective backer for Rubber grout float Silicone grout sealer tile because it won’t break down if water gets through Sponge Tile saw the tile layer. The tile is adhered to the cementboard Foam brush Grout float with thinset adhesive. The overall thickness of the Caulk gun Metal ruler finished countertop is about 11⁄2”. If you want a Ceramic tile Writing utensil thicker countertop, you can fasten an additional layer
Ceramic or porcelain makes a durable countertop that is heat-resistant and relatively easy for a DIYer to create. By using larger tiles, you minimize the grout lines (and the cleaning that goes with them).
78 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
Backsplash
Bullnose tiles
Grout
Field tiles
Thinset adhesive layer
Fiberglass
Cementboard wallboard tape
Cementboard
edge strip
Plastic
sheeting
Thinset Plywood core
fill layer
Plywood buildup strip
(optional)Cutaway view
A ceramic tile countertop made with wall tile starts with a core of 3⁄4” exterior-grade plywood that’s covered with a moisture barrier of 4-mil polyethylene sheeting. Half-inch cementboard is screwed to the plywood, and the edges are capped with cementboard and finished with fiberglass mesh tape and thinset mortar. Tiles for edging and backsplashes may be bullnose or trimmed from the factory edges of field tiles.
■ Options for Backsplashes & Countertop Edges
Hardwood
edging
Standard Cove tile
tile (cut)
Cove tile
V-cap
edge tile
Cementboard
PlywoodBacksplashes can be made from cove tile attached to the Edge options include V-cap edge tile and hardwood strip wall at the back of the countertop. You can use the tile alone edging. V-cap tiles have raised and rounded corners that create or build a shelf-type backsplash, using the same construction a ridge around the countertop perimeter—good for containing as for the countertop. Attach the plywood backsplash to the spills and water. V-cap tiles must be cut with a tile saw. plywood core of the countertop. Wrap the front face and all Hardwood strips should be prefinished with at least three coats edges of the plywood backsplash with cementboard before of polyurethane finish. Attach the strips to the plywood core so laying tile. the top of the wood will be flush with the faces of the tiles.
Building a Tile Countertop ■ 79
Tips for Laying Out Tile ▸
• You can lay tile over a laminate countertop that’s tiles, fasten a batten that’s the same thickness as
square, level, and structurally sound. Use a belt the edging tile, plus 1⁄8" for mortar thickness, to the
sander with 60- or 80-grit sandpaper to rough up the face of the countertop so the top is flush with the
surface before setting the tiles. The laminate cannot top of the counter. The bullnose tiles are aligned with
have a no-drip edge. If you’re using a new substrate the outside edge of the batten. For wood edge trim,
and need to remove your existing countertop, make fasten a 1 × 2 batten to the face of the countertop so
sure the base cabinets are level front to back, side to the top edge is above the top of the counter. The tiles
side, and with adjoining cabinets. Unscrew a cabinet are installed against the batten.
from the wall and use shims on the floor or against • Before installing any tile, lay out the tiles in a dry
the wall to level it, if necessary. run using spacers. If your counter is L-shaped,
• Installing battens along the front edge of the start at the corner and work outward. Otherwise,
countertop helps ensure the first row of tile is start the layout at a sink to ensure equal-sized cuts
perfectly straight. For V-cap tiles, fasten a 1 × 2 batten on both sides of the sink. If necessary, shift your
along the reference line, using screws. The first row starting point so you don’t end up cutting very
of field tile is placed against this batten. For bullnose narrow tile segments.
13 × 13" tile 12 × 12" tile 6 × 6" tile 5 × 5" tile Mosaic tile
The bigger the tile the fewer the grout lines. If you want a standard 25"-deep countertop, the only way to get there
without cutting tiles is to use mosaic strips or 1" tile. With 13 × 13" tile, you need to trim 1" off the back tile but have only
one grout line front to back. As you decrease tile size, the number of grout lines increases.80 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
■ How to Build a Tile Countertop 1 Overhang here Overhang here
Overhang hereDetermine the size of the plywood substrate by measuring across the top of the cabinets. The finished top should overhang the drawer fronts by at least 1⁄4”. Be sure to account for the thickness of the cementboard, adhesive, and tile when deciding how large to make the overhang. Cut the substrate to size from 3⁄4” plywood, using a circular saw. Also make any cutouts for sinks and other fixtures.
2 3
Corner
bracketSet the plywood substrate on top of the cabinets, and Cut pieces of cementboard to size, then mark and make attach it with screws driven through the cabinet corner the cutout for the sink. Dry-fit them on the plywood core brackets. The screws should not be long enough to go through with the rough sides of the panels facing up. Leave a 1⁄8” the top of the substrate. gap between the cementboard sheets and a 1⁄4” gap along the perimeter.
(continued)
Building a Tile Countertop ■ 81
4Option: Cut cementboard using a straightedge and utility Lay the 4-mil plastic moisture barrier over the plywood knife or a cementboard cutter with a carbide tip. Hold the substrate, draping it over the edges. Tack it in place with a few straightedge along the cutting line, and score the board several staples. Overlap seams in the plastic by 6”, and seal them with times with the knife. Bend the piece backward to break it along packing tape. the scored line. Back-cut to finish.
5 6Lay the cementboard pieces rough-side up on the plywood Tape all cementboard joints with fiberglass mesh tape. and attach them with cementboard screws driven every 6”. Apply three layers of tape along the front edge where the Drill pilot holes using a masonry bit, and make sure all screw horizontal cementboard sheets meet the cementboard edging. heads are flush with the surface. Wrap the countertop edges with 11⁄4”-wide cementboard strips, and attach them to the core with cementboard screws.
82 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
7 8
Fill all gaps and cover all of the tape with a layer of thinset Determine the required width of your edge tiles. Lay a field mortar. Feather out the mortar with a drywall knife to create a tile onto the tile base so it overhangs the front edge by 1⁄2” smooth, flat surface. or so. Then, hold a metal ruler up to the underside of the tile and measure the distance from the tile to the bottom of the subbase. Your edge tiles should be cut to this width. (The gap for the grout line will cause the edge tile to extend past the subbase, concealing it completely.)
9 10 Top edge 3 1⁄ 2” Backsplash
Edge tile 1 1⁄ 2"
Edge tile 1 1⁄ 2"
Edge tile 1 1⁄ 2"
Edge tile 1 1⁄ 2"
Backsplash 3 1⁄ 2"
Top edgeCut your edge tiles to the determined width, using a tile saw. Cut tiles for the backsplash. The backsplash tiles (31⁄2” wide It’s worth renting a quality wet saw for tile if you don’t own in our project) should be cut with a factory edge on each tile one. Floor tile is thick and difficult to cut with a hand cutter that will be oriented upward when they’re installed. You can (especially porcelain tiles). make efficient use of your tiles by cutting edge tiles from the center area of the tiles you cut to make the backsplash.
(continued)
Building a Tile Countertop ■ 83
11
Sink cutout areaDry-fit tiles on the countertop to find the layout that works best. Once the layout is established, make marks along the vertical and horizontal rows. Draw reference lines through the marks and use a framing square to make sure the lines are perpendicular.
Variation: Laying Out with Small Floor Tiles and Bullnose Edging ▸
Lay out tiles and spacers in a dry run. Adjust starting Place the first row of field tile against the edge tile,
lines, if necessary. If using battens, lay the field tile flush separating the tile with spacers. Lay out the remaining
with the battens, then apply edge tile. Otherwise, install rows of tile. Adjust starting lines if necessary to create a
the edging first. If the countertop has an inside corner, layout using the least number of cut tiles.
start there by installing a ready-made inside corner
or cutting a 45° miter in edge tile to make your own
inside corner.84 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
12 13
Use a 3⁄8” square notched trowel to apply a layer of Set the first tile into the adhesive. Hold a piece of the edge thinset adhesive to the cementboard. Apply enough for two tile against the countertop edge as a guide to show you exactly or three tiles, starting at one end. Hold the trowel at roughly how much the tile should overhang the edge. a 30-degree angle and try not to overwork the adhesive or remove too much.
14
Cut all the back tiles for the layout to fit (you’ll need to Option: To maintain even grout lines, some beginning tilers remove about 1” of a 13 × 13” tile) before you begin the actual insert plus-sign shaped plastic spacers at the joints. This is less installation. Set the back tiles into the thinset, maintaining the likely to be useful with large tiles like those shown here, but it gap for groutlines created by the small spacer nubs cast into is effective. Many tiles today feature built-in spacing lugs, so the tiles. If your tiles have no spacer nubs, see next step. the spacers are of no use. Make sure to remove the spacers before the thinset sets. If you leave them in place they will corrupt your grout lines.
(continued)
Building a Tile Countertop ■ 85
15
B
AVariation: To mark border tiles for cutting, allow space for To create a support ledge for the edge tiles, prop pieces backsplash tiles, grout, and mortar by placing a tile against the of 2 × 4 underneath the front edge of the substrate overhang, back wall. Set another tile (A) on top of the last full tile in the using wood scraps to prop the ledge tightly up against field, then place a third tile (B) over tile A and hold it against the the substrate. upright tile. Mark and cut tile A and install it with the cut edge toward the wall. Finish filling in your field tiles.
16 17Apply a thick layer of thinset to the backside of the edge Butter each backsplash tile and press it into place, doing tile with your trowel. This is called “buttering” and it is easier your best to keep all of the grout lines aligned. and neater than attempting to trowel adhesive onto the countertop edge. Press the tiles into position so they are flush with the leading edges of the field tiles.
86 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
18 19
Mix a batch of grout to complement the tile (keeping in Let the grout dry until a light film is created on the mind that darker grout won’t look dirty as soon as lighter countertop surface and then wipe the excess grout off with a grout). Apply the grout to the grout line areas with a grout float. sponge and warm, clean water.
20 21
After the grout has dried (and before you use the sink, Wait at least one week and then seal the grout lines with if possible) run a bead of clear silicone caulk along the a penetrating grout sealer. This is important to do. Sealing joint between the backsplash and the wall. Install your sink the tiles themselves is not a good idea unless you are using and faucet. unglazed tiles (a poor choice for countertops, however).
Building a Tile Countertop ■ 8721. Tiling Concrete Steps
I n addition to the traditional tricks for improving your home’s curb appeal—landscaping, fresh paint, pretty windows—a tiled entry makes a wonderful, positive Tools & Materials ▸ impression. To be suitable for tiling, stair treads Pressure washer Tile spacers must be deep enough to walk on safely. Check local Masonry trowel Buckets building codes for specifics, but most require that 4-foot level Paintbrush and roller treads be at least 11” deep (from front to back) after Carpenter’s square Plastic sheeting the tile is added. Straightedge Paper towels Before you start laying any tiles, the concrete Tape measure Dry-set mortar must be free of curing agents, clean, and in good Chalk line Field tile shape. Make necessary repairs and give them time Tile cutter or wet saw Bullnose tile to cure. An isolation membrane can be applied Tile nippers Grout before the tile. This membrane can be a fiberglass Square-notched Grout additive sheet or it can be brushed on as a liquid to dry. In trowel Latex tile caulk either case, it separates the tile from the concrete, Needle-nose plier Grout sealer which allows the two to move independently and Rubber mallet Tile sealer protects the tile from potential settling or shifting of Grout float 2×4 the concrete. Grout sponge Carpet scrap Choose exterior-rated, unglazed floor tile with a Caulk gun Cold chisel or skid-resistant surface. Tile for the walking surfaces Latex or epoxy flat-head should be at least 1⁄2” thick. Use bullnose tiles at the patching screwdriver front edges of treads (as you would on a countertop) compound Wire brush and use cove tiles as the bottom course on risers. Isolation membrane Broom
88 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
■ How to Tile Concrete Steps 1 2
Use a pressure washer to clean the surface of the concrete. Dig out rubble in large cracks and chips, using a small cold (Use a washer with at least 4,000 psi and follow manufacturer’s chisel or flat-head screwdriver. Use a wire brush to loosen dirt instructions carefully to avoid damaging the concrete with the and debris in small cracks. Sweep the area or use a wet/dry pressurized spray.) vacuum to remove all debris.
3 4 5
Fill small cracks and chips with If damage is located at a front Test the surface of the steps and masonry patching compound, using edge, clean it as described above. Place stoop for low spots, using a 4-foot level a masonry trowel. Allow the patching a board in front and block the board in or other straightedge. Fill any low spots compound to cure according to place with bricks or concrete blocks. with patching compound and allow the manufacturer’s directions. Wet the damaged area and fill it with compound to cure thoroughly. patching compound. Use a masonry trowel to smooth the patch and then allow it to cure thoroughly.
(continued)
Tiling Concrete Steps ■ 89
6 7Spread a layer of isolation membrane over the concrete, The sequence is important when tiling a stairway with using a notched trowel. Smooth the surface of the membrane, landing. The primary objective is to install the tile in such a way using the flat edge of a trowel. Allow the membrane to cure that the fewest possible cut edges are visible from the main according to manufacturer’s directions. viewing position. If you are tiling the sides of concrete steps, start laying tile there first. Begin by extending horizontal lines from the tops of the stair treads back to the house on the sides of the steps. Use a 4-foot level.
8 9 10Mix a batch of thinset mortar with Begin setting tiles into the thinset Wrap a 2 × 4 in old carpet and drag it latex bonding adhesive and trowel mortar on the sides of the steps. Start at back and forth across the tile surfaces it onto the sides of the steps, trying the top and work your way downward. to set them evenly. Don’t get too to retain visibility of the layout lines. Try to lay out tile so the vertical gaps aggressive here—you don’t want to Because the top steps are likely more between tiles align. Use spacers if you dislodge all of the thinset mortar. visible than the bottom steps, start on need to. top and work your way down.
90 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
11 12
Measure the width of a riser, including the thickness of the Next, install the tiles on the stair risers. Because the tiles you’ve laid on the step sides. Calculate the centerpoint location of the tops of the riser tiles affects the positioning of and mark it clearly with chalk or a high visibility marker. the tread and landing tiles, you’ll get the most accurate layout if the riser tiles are laid first. Start by stacking tiles vertically against the riser. (In some cases, you’ll only need one tile to reach from tread to tread.) Add spacers. Trace the location of the tread across the back of the top tile to mark it for cutting.
13 14 15
Cut enough tiles to size to lay tiles Trowel thinset mortar mixed with Lay tiles on the risers. The bottom for all the stair risers. Be sure to allow bonding adhesive onto the faces of the tile edges can rest on the tread, and the enough space for grout joints if you are risers. In most cases, you should be able tops of the top tiles should be flush with stacking tiles. to tile each riser all at once. or slightly lower than the plane of the tread above.
(continued)
Tiling Concrete Steps ■ 91
16 17Dry-lay tile in both directions on the stair landing. You’ll want Cut tiles as indicated by your dry run, and then begin to maintain the same grout lines that are established by the installing them by troweling thinset adhesive for the bullnose riser tiles, but you’ll want to evaluate the front-to-back layout tiles at the front edge of the landing. The tiles should overlap to make sure you don’t end up with a row of tiles that is less the top edges of the riser tiles, but not extend past their faces. than 2” or so in thickness.
18 19
Field tile
Bullnose tileSet the first row of field tiles, maintaining an even gap Add the last row of tiles next to the house and threshold, between the field tiles and the bullnose tiles. cutting them as needed so they are between 1⁄4” and 1⁄2” away from the house.
92 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
20 21
Install tiles on the stair treads, starting at the top tread and Fill in the field tiles on the stair treads, being sure to leave a working your way downward. Set a bullnose tile on each side gap between the back tiles and the riser tiles that’s the same of the centerline and work your way toward the sides, making thickness as the other tile gaps. sure to conceal the step side tiles with the tread tiles.
22 23 24
Let the thinset mortar cure for a After a few weeks, seal the grout Select (or have prepared) a few days, and then apply grout in the lines with an exterior-rated grout sealer. pretinted caulk that’s the same color gaps between tiles using a grout float. as your grout. Fill the gap between Wipe away the grout after it clouds over. the back row of tiles and the house Cover with plastic, in the event of rain. with caulk. Smooth with a wet finger if needed.
Tiling Concrete Steps ■ 93Glossary American National Standards Expansion joint: An expansion joint Grout: A dry powder, usually cement Institute (ANSI): A standards- is a joint in a tile layout filled with a based, that is mixed with water and making organization that rates tile for flexible material like caulk instead of pressed into the joints between water permeability. grout. The expansion joint allows the tiles. Grout also comes with latex or tile to shift without cracking. acrylic added for greater adhesion Art tiles: Hand-finished tiles with and impermeability. designs, pictures, or patterns. Art Field tiles: The main tile in a tile tiles are often used to accent a large design. As opposed to trim or Impervious: Tile that absorbs less tile layout. accent tiles. than .5% of its weight in water. Back buttering: Spreading mortar on Floor tile: Any type of tile designated Isolation membrane: Isolation the back of a tile before pressing it for use on floors. It can generally also membrane is a flexible material onto the substrate. be used for walls or countertops. installed in sheets or troweled onto an unstable or damaged base floor, Baseboard tile: Baseboard- Floor-warming systems: A system subfloor, or wall before installing tile. shaped tiles used to replace of heating elements installed directly The isolation membrane prevents wood baseboards. under the floor material. Floor- shifts in the base from damaging the warming systems are intended to Bullnose trim tile: Tile with one tile above. provide supplemental radiant heat for rounded edge that is meant to be a room. Joists: The framing members that left exposed. support the floor. Glass tile: Tile made of translucent Cement body tile: Tile made from glass. Glass tile is often used as Kiln: A high-temperature oven used to concrete poured into forms. accent tile. harden clay tile. Coefficient of friction: The measure Glazed ceramic: Tile made from Liners: Narrow tiles used for adding of a tile’s slip resistance. Tiles with refined clay that has been coated with contrasting lines to tile layouts. high numbers are more slip-resistant. a glaze and then fired in a kiln. Listello: A border tile, usually with a Decorative: Tile with designs, Grade: Ratings applied to some raised design. Also called listel. pictures, or relief. Decorative tiles are tile indicating the quality and generally used as accents in a field of Mastic or organic mastic: A type consistency of manufacturing. Grade solid-color tiles. of glue for installing tile. It comes 1 tile is standard, suitable for most premixed and cures as it dries. It is Dry fit: Installing tile without mortar in applications; grade 2 may have minor convenient for wall tiles smaller than order to test the layout. glaze and size imperfections; grade 3 6 × 6, but it is not suitable for floors. tile is thin and suitable only for wall or decorative applications.
94 ■ HERE’S HOW: CERAMIC TILE
Metal tile: Tile made of iron, stainless Saltillo: Terra-cotta tile from Terra-cotta tile: Tile made from steel, copper, or brass. Metal tile is Mexico. Saltillos have a distinctly unrefined clay. Terra-cotta is fired often used as accent tile. rustic appearance. at low temperature. Its color varies greatly depending on where the Mortar or thinset mortar: A mixture Sealants: Sealants protect non- and source of the clay. of portland cement and sand and semi-vitreous tile from stains and occasionally a latex or acrylic additive from water damage. Sealants are also Trim tile: Tile with a finished edge for to improve adhesion. important for protecting grout. completing wall tile layouts. Mosaic tile: Small colored tiles used Self-spacing tile: Tile with attached V-cap tiles: V- or L-shaped tile to make patterns or pictures on walls tabs for maintaining even spacing. for finishing the exposed edges and floors. of countertops. Semi-vitreous: Moderately Natural stone tile: Tile cut from permeable tile. Absorbs 3-7% of its Vitreous: Slightly permeable tile. marble, slate, granite, or other total weight in water. Not suitable for Absorbs .5-3% of its total weight natural stone. outdoor installations. in water. Non-vitreous: Very permeable tile. Spacers: Plastic lugs meant to Wall tile: Tile intended for use on Non-vitreous tile absorbs more than be inserted between tiles to walls. It is generally thinner than floor 7% of its total weight in water. Not help maintain uniform spacing tile and should not be used on floors suitable for outdoor installations. during installation. or countertops. Porcelain Enamel Institute (PEI): A Story stick: A length of 1 × 2 lumbar Water absorption or permeability: tile industry group that issues ratings marked with the tile spacing for a The measure of the amount of water on tile’s resistance to wear. specific layout. that will penetrate a tile when it is wet. Measurement ranges from non- Porcelain tile: Tile made from refined Subfloor: The surface, usually vitreous to semi-vitreous to vitreous white clay fired at high temperatures. made of plywood, attached to the to impervious. Porcelain is usually dyed rather than floor joists. glazed, and thus its color runs the Waterproofing membrane: A Substrates or underlayment: tile’s full thickness. flexible, water-proof material installed A surface installed on top of an in sheets or brushed on to protect the Quarry tile: Tile formed to look like existing floor, subfloor, or wall. The subfloor from water damage. quarried stone. substrate creates a suitable surface for installing tile. Substrate materials Reference lines: Lines marked on the include cementboard, plywood, cork, substrate to guide the placement of backerboard, greenboard, or water- the first row of tile. proofing membrane.
Glossary ■ 95Copyright © 2010 President/CEO: Ken Fund Creative Publishing international, Inc. VP for Sales & Marketing: Kevin Hamric 400 First Avenue North, Suite 300 Minneapolis, Minnesota 55401 Home Improvement Group 1-800-328-0590 www.creativepub.com Publisher: Bryan Trandem All rights reserved Managing Editor: Tracy Stanley Senior Editor: Mark Johanson Printed at R.R. Donnelley Editor: Jennifer Gehlhar 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Creative Director: Michele Lanci-Altomare Senior Design Managers: Jon Simpson, Brad Springer Design Manager: James Kegley
Lead Photographer: Joel SchnellHere’s How Ceramic Tile Created by: The Editors of Creative Publishing international, Inc., in Production Managers: Linda Halls, Laura Hokkanen cooperation with Black & Decker. Black & Decker® is a trademark of The Black & Decker Corporation and is used under license. Page Layout Artist: Danielle Smith
NOTICE TO READERS For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The publisher and Black & Decker cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse of the information provided. The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions included with products, since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required: some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help. Consult your local building department for information on building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to your project.
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