Create a custom-built appearance with carefully selected cabinetry. The cabinets here are manufacturer produced, but with the inset door panels and incredible cove molding, they look like the work of a master craftsman. The gray color and marble vanity top are the perfect complements to the elegant and sophisticated storage features.

Combine functionality with sleek, streamlined, clutter-free panache by choosing European-styled fixtures and design elements. The blond flooring and wall-mounted vanity scream Scandinavia, and the urbane, upscale toilet and vessel sink reinforce that impression. Both the toilet and the vanity-sink combo can be mounted at a custom height to better accommodate a wheelchair user.

Let your bathroom shout “sophisticated” with a seductively stylish vessel sink. The range of materials and styles has never been greater, including unusual offerings such as this volcanic-rock sink with a fired-on finish that won’t chip, fade, or stain.

Match curves to curves. A tray vessel sink (below) is not unusual in today’s contemporary bathroom, but an oval version is. The shape of this lovely sink mirrors the shape of the bathtub, creating a repetition that helps guide the eye through the room’s design.

Rely on simplicity for timeless style. The uncomplicated traditional style of this toilet is coupled with a cutting-edge self-cleaning technology (using a set-it-and-forget-it tank cartridge), and the look marries perfectly with the basic contemporary tub and unfussy floating double-sink vanity. Because the elements all feature uncomplicated designs, the room will appear as fresh years from now as it does today.

Play it safe with matching fixtures. You can please the eye and streamline your fixture shopping by buying a suite of fixtures from the same family, such as the showerhead, controls, and faucets in this bathroom. The brushed-nickel finish is easier to keep clean than chrome, and it adds a sophisticated aspect to the look of the room.

Add grace with a gooseneck. Metal wall tiles and a stainless-steel undermount sink are sophisticated but could be a bit stark and cold. Adding a gooseneck faucet softens the look a bit and provides a counterpoint to the strong linear look of the wall.

Save space with a console sink. Most console sinks are modest in size, usually featuring only the sink and supporting structure. This one features the added bonus of a shelf between the legs, offering a place for towels or other small-item storage.

Incorporate small touches that deliver big comfort. A towel drawer built into this cabinet tower is a discreet yet extravagant addition, one that adds a lot to the daily use of this bathroom.

Walk into luxury. Today’s walk-in tubs are more than just pragmatic accessibility features for bathers with mobility issues. Manufacturers now outfit walk-in tubs with luxury features, such as the jets and chrome fixtures shown here.

Optimize vanity cabinets. There’s no excuse to leave your undersink area bare, with a clutter of odd-sized bottles, jars, and other bathroom necessities. You can organize the space and make the most of its storage potential with a few aftermarket installations, such as the corner shelf and screw-on door-back racks shown here.

Style and accessibility can go hand in hand, as this stunning shower illustrates. A chic trench drain ensures no water from this curbless shower makes it onto the floor outside, and a seat and handheld shower wand on a sliding bar make showering as easy for people with mobility issues as it is for anyone else in the house.

Steam your cares away. Among the many luxury features that have become available for home bathrooms, a steam shower is one of the most high impact. The steam unit in this room fits nicely under the sink in a modern vanity, and it services a wonderful shower enclosure with built-in, flip-down seat.

Focus on faucet flair. Where a bathroom has a calming color scheme and cool and elegant features such as the white solid-surface sink shown here, it only makes sense to go a bit wild with the choice of faucet. This elegant example is a beautiful addition that stands out from its understated surroundings and makes a statement that justifies the cost of the faucet.

In this chapter:

• Bathtubs & Jetted Tubs

• Showers

A deck-mounted tub can be customized to fit your space and your bathroom’s design. This deck was built to blend, and it complements the vanity, walls, and floor. The side-mounted faucet and controls allow bathers to recline completely in either direction without bumping up against the hardware. The jets inside the tub ensure a spa-like bathing experience that turns an everyday ritual into something special.

A clawfoot tub is an iconic bathroom fixture. The original models made of cast iron with an enameled porcelain finish can be found through architectural-salvage companies, although the supply is dwindling and the prices are climbing. Reproductions of this style are made with lighter-weight composites and polymers.

Traditional one-piece alcove tubs remain one of the most popular choices among homeowners. The tub lends itself to accents such as high-end surround tile and distinctive fixtures and hardware.

Match your tub to the sink and toilet by purchasing all at once as part of a suite. The freestanding tub in this room is a spectacular addition only made better with the inclusion of a sleek toilet and matching vanity-top sink. It’s a stunning look that makes the room stand out.

Large deck-mounted tubs offer options when it comes to locating the spout and valve handles. In many cases this means you can position the spout near the tub center so you can lean back against either end of the tub without hitting any hardware.

A tub platform can be tucked into a corner or even an alcove. If you add tile or another moisture-resistant wall covering on the corner walls, you may consider adding a handheld shower near the corner. Handheld showers are not a good idea for island tubs.

Install a curved-front alcove tub to enjoy maximum bathing space in a limited footprint. A model with the faucet and controls offset increases the usable interior space even more.

One-piece alcove shower enclosures can be simple and modest or incredibly upscale and detailed, such as the oversized unit shown here.

The most common shower in homes across America is the one that fits inside an existing alcove tub. It’s a simple setup, especially when paired with a shower curtain rather than a sliding glass door.

Custom shower enclosures are limited only by imagination and can include, as this one does, a wood-slat floor over a curbless drain pan, marble walls, and multiple showerheads for a sumptuous experience.

A simple shower enclosure using off-the-shelf pan, hardware, fixtures, and frameless glass panels can create a stunning centerpiece to an already stunning bathroom.

Prefab shower trays come in a variety of styles, including sleek features like the concealed trench drain in this unit.

A pedestal sink has visual appeal and an efficient footprint but lacks any storage.

Self-rimming sinks (also called drop-ins) fit into a cutout in a countertop and usually are secured with mounting clips from below.

A solid-surface sink and countertop are the perfect match for a modern single-handle faucet and chic wall-mounted vanity.

Undermount sinks have a very contemporary appearance and offer some clean-up advantages, but they can only be installed in countertops that have a contiguous waterproof composition (such as solid surface or poured concrete).

These artistic sinks are crafted from volcanic rock, as is the counter they rest on. The material offers a unique and incredibly durable surface.

Today’s toilets are wonderful style statements all on their own but ultimately should complement the tub if there is one and the sink if possible. Integrating the toilet in this way makes for a unified design; the comfort is already built right into modern toilets.

Wall-mounted toilets are space-saving options that offer other advantages as well.

Flushing mechanisms are changing rapidly to keep pace with the demand for greater water economy. One common technology is the dual-flush design, which has a light flush option for liquid waste only that can save 20% on water usage over standard 1.6-gallon models.

Bidets are a companion to the toilet, meant for basic washing and hygiene. They aren’t common in America and require extra space and plumbing in the bathroom, but they will give your bathroom a worldly, cosmopolitan feel if you choose to install one.

Wall-mounted storage, like the contemporary vanity and matching cabinet here, can be a space-saving solution—one that allows for cleaning underneath while still supplying handy, accessible storage space.

Tall, thin cabinets are often excellent choices for additional storage in a bathroom. The shape takes up a modest amount of space and provides abundant storage. Combining open shelving with enclosed cabinetry in a unit such as this ensures that just about anything you might need to store in the room has a proper place to go.

Vanities with legs lend an open and airy feeling to the bathroom and provide an option for useful shelving underneath. The hardware on this vanity was selected to match the brushed finish of the chic faucet and shower fixtures, creating a very unified look.

Medicine-chest designs have evolved right along with the look and function of most other bathroom features. This sleek unit represents a significant departure from the traditional swing-out-door medicine chest. The mirror slides up to allow access to the shelving inside, eliminating the door-swing arc that can be an awkward nuisance in the ever-space-challenged bathroom. Notice that in keeping with the sophisticated technology, the mirror is frameless, offering an appealingly streamlined and modern look.

A linen cabinet is a freestanding furnishing, but it can take on a built-in appearance if you integrate it with other cabinets and wall trim. Linen cabinets and linen closets can be made more efficient by customizing with features such as door-back shelves and pull-out laundry bins.

Slide-out storage racks are especially useful in base cabinets. Functioning basically as drawers, slide-out racks can be included at the time of purchase or added later.

Drawers are on the rise. Even in small to medium vanity cabinets, where cabinet drawers traditionally expose only sink traps, supply tubes, and dark, unfriendly space, cabinetmakers are finding ways to design a small drawer or two to provide discreet, clean storage space. The combination of a cabinet door to access plumbing and two small drawers breaks with the symmetry of a traditional vanity cabinet as well, providing a small design surprise.

Never lose sight of the fact that the right bathroom lighting not only supplies illumination, it can also be a decorative accent.

Some new medicine cabinet models come equipped with integral lighting, such as the side-mounted tube fixtures on these units. Medicine-chest lighting is developed to create the most realistic and accurate image in the mirror.

DIY radiant-heat floor systems are electric mats installed beneath floor coverings to warm your feet and heat your room.

Light and vent combinations serve the dual purpose of lighting the room and reducing moisture and odors. Some contain an infrared heating element for a third function (inset).

Solid-surface panels, such as this black quartz accent surface that matches the tub deck, can make ideal waterproof bathroom wall surfaces.

A marble-tiled wall is a classic upscale look, and a matching marble counter and vessel sink on top of a wall-hung vanity are a space-saving update to that look.

Larger ceramic tiles are ideal for more modest bathrooms. Choose a subtle color to complement other surfaces, like the sharp and refined quartz countertops and bathtub half wall here.

A faux-wood laminate floor provides an ideal durable stage. The star on that stage is a dramatic and luxurious jetted tub tucked in an alcove with a view.

A dramatic black marble tile floor helps a simple, elegant, deep freestanding tub pop in this chic bathroom.

In this chapter:

• Determining Your Needs

• Designing for Accessibility

A half bath need not lack drama. This small space includes the basics, using a compact wall-mounted vanity to save space. But the inclusion of sumptuous wall materials, high-end flooring, and near-theatrical lighting around a stunning mirror make it a showpiece space in the home.

A master bathroom is the place to splurge, especially when modern is your style. The floors and walls in this room are beautiful and waterproof quartz composite; every feature in the room combines luxurious comfort and astounding sculptural beauty.

There’s no rule that says a modest family bath needs to be less than opulent. You can fit a lot into a small space, like this skylight-lit, simple, elegant, and deep drop-in tub.

Aging-in-place bathroom design often deals with remodeling existing spaces to better suit users with age-related mobility issues. Those who can’t stand for the span of a shower can take one while sitting in this specially adapted stool. They can use the ergonomic handheld showerhead with a handle that clips onto a nearby grab bar. Even the toilet-paper holder has been replaced with one that has a grab bar built in.

Power lifts make toilet use easier for people with limited leg or joint strength.

A side-mounted faucet is easier to reach on this wheelchair-accessible, roll-under, wall-mounted sink.

A motion-sensing faucet is not only easier for the elderly and children to use but helps stop the spread of disease.

This bathroom sacrifices nothing to style but is completely accessible, with a roll-in curbless shower, roll-under sink with handy side ledges, and sturdy grab bars everywhere they might be needed.

A simple soap dish becomes a useful tub side grab bar featuring an elegant circular shape.

This innovative grab bar uses suction to hold to just about any bathroom surface, and it can be released and repositioned as needed with a click of the gray release tabs on either end.

This alcove tub features a chair-height seat and a slide-down front wall. To take a bath, the user simply sits on the seat, swings their legs over, and pulls the wall up. The tub offers many amenities, including simple-to-use controls, a heater, and jets.

A scale drawing shows everything in accurate proportion. After measuring the dimensions of your existing bathroom, draft a floor plan, including any adjoining space that could be used for expansion of the layout (such as the storage closet shown on next page). The normal scale for bathroom plans is 1/2” = 1’.

The existing-floor-plan draft should contain dimension lines noting the accurate measurements of the space, including the location of all existing fixtures. This draft also shows the location of electrical circuits. It is the starting point for your remodeled bathroom plan.

Most toilets are fragile and should be removed during full remodeling projects, even if you do not plan to replace them. Always use care when handling any fixture made of china or porcelain.

Turn off the water, then flush the toilet to empty the tank. Use a sponge to remove the remaining water in the tank and bowl. Disconnect the supply tube with an adjustable wrench.

Remove the nuts from the tank bolts with a ratchet wrench. Carefully remove the tank and set it aside.

Pry off the floor-bolt trim caps at the base of the toilet, then remove the floor nuts with an adjustable wrench.

Straddle the toilet and rock the bowl from side to side until the seal breaks. Carefully lift the toilet off the floor bolts and set it on its side. A small amount of water may spill from the toilet trap.

Remove the old wax from the toilet flange in the floor. Plug the drain opening with a damp rag to prevent sewer gases from rising into the house.

If the old toilet will be reused, clean the old wax and putty from the horn and the base of the toilet.

Cut apart cabinets and vanities to simplify their removal and disposal. A reciprocating saw or jigsaw works well for this job. Wear eye protection.

With a bucket beneath, remove the P-trap by loosening the slip nuts at both ends. If the nuts will not turn, cut out the drain trap with a hacksaw. When prying or cutting, take care to avoid damaging the trap arm that runs into the wall.

Disconnect the pop-up drain linkage from the tailpiece of the sink drain by unscrewing the retaining nut.

Disconnect the faucet through the access panel, usually located on the wall surface behind or next to the tub faucet and drain. (If the tub does not have an access panel, add one.) Turn off the shutoff valves, then cut the shower pipe above the faucet body. Disconnect or cut off the supply pipes above the shutoff valves.

Remove the tub spout by inserting a screwdriver into the spout and twisting counterclockwise until it unscrews from the stub-out that extends from the wall plumbing.

Unscrew the collar nut to remove the showerhead. Loosen the escutcheon, then twist the shower arm counterclockwise to unscrew it from the wall plumbing.

Spring-mounted drain plugs: Remove the plug by unscrewing it from the drain crosspiece.

Disconnect the drain assembly from the tub by inserting a pair of pliers into the drain opening and turning the crosspiece counterclockwise. Insert a long screwdriver between the handles and use it to twist the pliers.

Remove the screws in the overflow coverplate (top photo). Remove the coverplate along with any attached drain plug (bottom photo).

Remove the overflow pipe by unscrewing the slip nut that holds it to the rest of the drain assembly, then lift out the pipe. Stuff a rag into the waste pipe after the overflow pipe is removed to keep debris from entering the trap.

Slice the caulking around each shower panel using a utility knife. Remove any screws holding the panels together.

Pry shower panels away from the wall using a flat pry bar. If the panels are still intact, cut them into small pieces for easier disposal using a jigsaw or a sharp utility knife.

Fabricated shower bases (fiberglass or plastic): Slice the caulking between the base and the floor, then unscrew any fasteners holding the base to the wall studs. Pry the base from the floor with a wrecking bar.

Ceramic-tile shower base: Remove the drain strainer, and then stuff a rag into the drain opening. Wearing protective equipment, break apart a section of tile with a hammer and masonry chisel. Cut through any steel-mesh reinforcement using a wire cutter. Continue knocking tile and mortar loose until the waterproofing layers are exposed, then scrape off the layers with a long-handled floor scraper.

Remove the fasteners that hold the tub flanges to the wall studs, then use a wrecking bar or a piece of 2 × 4 to pry the bathtub loose.

Lift the edge of the bathtub and slip a pair of 1 × 4 runners beneath the tub apron. Pull the tub away from the wall using the runners as skids. Have helpers when removing steel and cast-iron tubs.

Cut or break the bathtub into small pieces for easy disposal. Fiberglass, reinforced polymer, and pressed-steel tubs can be cut with a reciprocating saw. Cast-iron and steel tubs should be carried out.

Begin removing wall coverings on the entire wall. There are many ways to go about this. One is to set your circular saw to a cutting depth equal to the wall covering thickness and make a few starter cuts. Remove any cover plates on the wall before you start.

Next, use a wrecking bar to pry the wallcovering loose. Work in sections that are large, but manageable. Discard the material you remove immediately.

Remove old drywall screws or nails that remain in the wall-framing members.

Cut 2 × 2 furring strips to length. Start with the sole plate of the wall. Apply a bead of construction adhesive to the 2 × 2.

Attach the furring strips to the wall-framing members with 8d finish or casing nails. Drive a nail every 12 to 16”.

Install the vertical furring strips next, using nails and construction adhesive. Finally, attach furring strips to the wall cap plate. Reroute wiring in the wall according to your plan. If you are keeping receptacles or switches in the same place, you’ll still need to move the boxes forward in the wall cavity so the edges will be flush with the new wall surface.

If you are installing a drain for a tub or shower, mark out the location of the drain on the subfloor. Remove floor coverings first. Mark a centerpoint for the drainage pipe onto the sole plate. The pipe should align with the location for the drain trap. If your plan calls for it, drill additional holes for fixture drains, such as the wall sink stub-out being installed in this wall.

Drill holes for the drain pipes using a hole saw that’s slightly larger than the outside diameter of the new pipe. In most cases, a 2”-diameter pipe is adequate for this type of branch drain, so a 21/2” hole saw is a good choice.

Feed sections of drain pipe up through the holes in the sole plate and floor (if you are tying in to the plumbing on the floor below—the easiest way to tap into the existing plumbing system). Connect the drain line to a drainage stack, maintaining a slope of at least 1/4” per 1’ It is always a good idea to include a cleanout on the new branch line.

Cut notches in the wall-framing members to hold the horizontal plumbing in the drain lines. See chart shown here. Cut no deeper than needed to hold the pipes.

Cut the horizontal lines to length and set them into the notches. You can hold them in place with tape if they don’t stay put.

Attach a 90° elbow to the end of the new horizontal line so it aligns with the drain pipe coming up through the floor. The other end of horizontal pipe is fitted with a T-fitting so the vent line can be extended up through the cap plate and ceiling.

With the drain pipes seated in the fitting below the floor (but not cemented), mark the free ends of the vertical pipes for cutting at the points where they will join the fittings on the horizontal line. Dry-fit this union. Do not cement yet.

Remove the subfloor in the section you’ve laid out for the drain. Cut with a jigsaw, using a starter hole if you need to. If you’ve planned the drain location wisely it will not fall over a floor joist.

Reach into the hole in the subfloor and mark the vertical pipe for cutting to accept a T-fitting. The tee should have a slight sweep downward. Normally, the open end of the tee is sized for a 11/2”-diameter drain tube to run from the vertical drain line to the drain trap.

Remove the drain pipes and cut them to the lengths you’ve marked.

Cement the reducing tee into the drain line for the tub, making sure to orient the sweep correctly and to align the opening with the drain-trap location.

Cement a reducing tee into the drain line for the sink stub-out.

Cement the drain lines into the drain fittings from below. Solvent-cement the branch drain line components on the floor below, tying the line into the main drain stack or another large branch drain.

Connect the vent pipe from the wet wall with another vent line in the attic or, if you prefer, run it out through the roof and flash and cover it according to your local plumbing codes.

Install cold and hot water-supply lines, connecting from the floor below.

Solder supply stub-outs onto the new water lines. Install protective metal plates on the wall studs to cover pipe (and electrical cable) penetrations. Have your work inspected and, when approved, you may go ahead and install wall coverings.

In this chapter:

• Installing Showers

• Shower Enclosure Kits

Ceramic tile for custom showers is installed the same way as in other applications. Ceramic shower accessories, such as a soap dish, are mortared in place during the tile installation.

Paneled shower surrounds are inexpensive and easy to install. Designed for alcove installations, they often are sold with matching shower pans (called receptors). Some include molded-in accessories, such as shelves or soap dishes. High-end versions include tiled sections, faux tile, and faux stone panels, and some even include matching fixtures, controls, and built-in grab bars.

If you are adding a wall to create the alcove, lay out the locations for the studs and plumbing on the new wood sill plate. Also lay out the stud locations on the cap plate that will be attached to the ceiling. Refer to the enclosure-kit instructions for exact locations and dimensions of studs. Attach the sill plate to the floor with deck screws and panel adhesive, making sure it is square to the back wall and the correct distance from the side wall.

Align a straight 2 × 4 right next to the sill plate and make a mark on the ceiling. Use a level to extend that line directly above the sill plate. Attach the cap plate at that point.

Install the 2 × 4 studs at the outlined locations. Check with a level to make sure each stud is plumb and then attach them by driving deck screws toenail style into the sill plate and cap plate.

Cut an access hole in the floor for the drain, according to the installation-manual instructions. Drill openings in the sill plate of the wet wall (the new wall in this project) for the supply pipes, also according to the instructions.

Install a drain pipe and branch line and then trim the drain pipe flush with the floor. If you are not experienced with plumbing, hire a plumber to install the new drain line.

Install new supply risers as directed in the instruction manual (again, have a plumber do this if necessary). Also install crossbraces between the studs in the wet wall for mounting the faucet body and shower arm.

If the supply plumbing is located in a wall (old or new) that is accessible from the non-shower side, install framing for a removable access panel.

Attach the drain tailpiece that came with your shower pan to the underside of the unit, following the manufacturer’s instructions precisely. Here, an adjustable spud wrench is being used to tighten the tailpiece.

Set the pan in place, check to make sure it is level, and shim it if necessary. Secure the pan with large-head roofing nails driven into the wall stud so the heads pin the flange against the stud. Do not overdrive the nails.

Lay out the locations for the valve hole or holes in the end wall panel that will be installed on the wet wall. Check your installation instructions. Some kits come with a template marked on the packaging carton. Cut the access hole with a hole saw and drill or with a jigsaw and fine-tooth blade. If using a jigsaw, orient the panel so the good surface is facing down.

Position the back wall so there is a slight gap (about 1/32”) between the bottom of the panel and the rim of the pan—set a few small spacers on the rim if need be. Tack a pair of roofing nails above the top of the back panel to hold it in place (or use duct tape). Position both end walls and test the fits. Make clip connections between panels (inset) if your kit uses them.

Remove the end walls so you can prepare the installation area for them. If your kit recommends panel adhesive, apply it to the wall or studs. In the kit shown here, only a small bead of silicone sealant on the pan flange is required.

Reinstall the end panels, permanently clipping them to the back panel according to the kit manufacturer’s instructions. Make sure the front edges of the end panels are flush with the front of the pan.

Once the panels are positioned correctly and snapped together, fasten them to the wall studs. If the panels have predrilled nail holes, drive roofing nails through them at each stud at the panel tops and every 4 to 6” along vertical surfaces.

Install wall-covering material above the enclosure panels and anywhere else it is needed. Use moisture-resistant materials, and maintain a gap of 1/4” between the shoulders of the top panel flanges and the wall covering.

Finish the walls and then caulk between the enclosure panels and the wall coverings with silicone caulk.

Install the faucet handles and escutcheon and caulk around the escutcheon plate. Install the shower-arm escutcheon and showerhead. Add a shower door.

Make an access panel and attach it at the framed opening created in step 8. A piece of 1/4” plywood framed with mitered case molding and painted to match the wall is one idea for access-panel covers.

Draw centerlines along the top of the outer thresholds of the shower pan. Position one of the metal wall channels vertically against the wall, so the bottom edge is centered on the centerline. Use a level to adjust the wall channel for plumb, then mark the mounting-hole locations on the wall through the holes in the wall channel.

Drill holes and drive plastic wall anchors for the metal shower channels. The plastic wall anchors are included in most shower kits.

Position the wall channels in place and secure them to the wall with mounting screws driven through the mounting holes and into the wall anchors.

Fill the gaps between the shower base and the wall with siliconized latex caulk. Install the other wall channel in the same way, and seal the remaining gap between the shower pan and the wall. Lightly sand the top face of the shower pan curbs with the sandpaper included in the kit. This will create a better bonding surface when you seal the pan at the end of the project.

Prepare the walls in whatever manner recommended by the kit instructions. Test-fit the side panels and the corner panel by taping them in place temporarily with masking tape, with the shiny side of the panels facing out. The wall panels should butt against the wall channels and rest flat against the shower-pan curbs. If the wall panels don’t line up correctly, it indicates that the wall channels are out of plumb or the shower pan is not level. The corner panel should slightly overlap the side wall panels, by about 1/2”. Some trimming may be necessary if the overlap is greater.

To prepare the side wall that will contain the plumbing fixtures, cut a cardboard template to the same size as the wall panel and place the template against the wall. Mark the location of the shower and faucet on the template. Make an X against this side of the cardboard for reference. Remove the cardboard template, then use a utility knife to cut away openings for the plumbing stub-outs on the template. Test-fit the cardboard template against the wall, making sure the plumbing pipes fit correctly.

Use the template to mark the opening on the wall panel that will hold the shower plumbing fixtures, then use an appropriately sized hole saw to cut openings in the wall panel. Make sure to align the wall panel correctly when marking: the shiny side will face into the shower.

Beginning with the panel without plumbing cutouts, spread a continuous 1/4” bead of panel adhesive along the four edges of the back of the wall panel, no closer than 2” to the edges. Leave gaps at the ends, so air can escape when pressing the panels against the wall. Also apply an S-shaped continuous bead to the center of the panel. Position the panel against the wall so the bottom rests firmly against the shower-pan curb and side edges are against the wall channel and the corner of the room. Press the panel against the wall firmly, and smooth it with even hand pressure until the panel is perfectly flat. Repeat with the wall that has plumbing cutouts, making sure to apply a bead of panel adhesive around the cutouts. Finally, apply panel adhesive to the back of the corner panel and press it into place. (Some shower models may have connecting rod that joins the corner panel to the shower-pan unit.) If any excess adhesive has squeezed out around the edges of the panel, clean it away with a rag moistened with mineral spirits.

Following the kit instructions, begin assembling the doorframes. With our kit, the first step is to attach the center guide to the bottom rail using the screws included with the kit.

Stand the sliding door panels upright so the hanging brackets are at the top. Install the rollers on the same side of the door panels as the door stops.

Most shower kits have both stationary glass panels and sliding panels. Begin by installing the first stationary panel by inserting it into the wall channel so the roller channel at the side of the top rail is facing inside the shower stall. Now insert the sliding door panel on this side, so that the rollers engage the roller channel inside the top rail. Repeat this step with the opposite-side stationary panel and sliding door panel. Secure the top and bottom rails of the glass panels to the side channels and to one another using the corner connectors included with the kit.

Install the seal strips on the back of both sliding door panels, as per the kit instructions. These pliable strips will allow the door to form a watertight seal against the stationary panels.

Make small adjustments to the entire assembly to center it on the top face of the shower pan curbs. Once positioned correctly, so that the entire unit is plumb and the bottoms of the stationary panels are flat and level on the shower pan, drill holes in the frame through the adjustment holes in the glass frames, and secure the unit to the wall channels with the provided screws. Test the doors and, if necessary, make small adjustments by loosening and then reattaching the roller screws at the top of the doors. Allow the shower unit to sit in place for 12 hours before beginning the waterproofing step.

Waterproofing the shower will require the use of two different but similar-sounding products: siliconized latex caulk and silicone sealant. First, apply siliconized caulk to the seams between the wall panels and corner panel, between the wall panels and the metal wall channels, the seam where the wall panels and corner panel meet the shower pan, and along the tops of the wall panels. Apply silicone sealant to the heads of all screws in the upright panel frames. From inside of the shower, apply silicone sealant along the seams where the bottom rails lay on the shower pan curb and along the bottoms of the wall channels and glass panel upright frames. Also apply silicone sealant around the center guide. Apply silicone sealant around the joint where the bottom rails butt up against the bottom connector. Finally, apply sealant to the heads of any exposed screws.

Let the caulked and sealed seams dry completely. To complete your shower, make the plumbing hookups of the shower faucet spray head and the shower valve. Test the shower to check for leaks.

Add small amounts of clean water to the dry mixture and blend to an evenly moist consistency using a masonry hoe. Be sure to wear gloves and a dust mask or respirator.

Check the consistency. A squeezed clump of deck mud should hold its shape without sagging or falling apart.

Staple 15# building paper to the subfloor of the shower base. Disassemble the 3-piece shower drain and glue the bottom piece to the drain pipe with PVC cement. Partially screw the drain bolts into the drain piece, and stuff a rag into the drain pipe to prevent mortar from falling into the drain.

Mark the height of the bottom drain piece on the wall farthest from the center of the drain. Measure from the center of the drain straight across to that wall, then raise the height mark 1/4” for every 12” of shower floor to slope the pre-pan toward the drain. Trace a reference line at the height mark around the perimeter of the entire alcove using a level.

Staple galvanized-metal lath over the building paper; cut a hole in the lath 1/2” from the drain. Mix floor mortar (or “deck mud”) to a fairly dry consistency using a latex additive for strength; mortar should hold its shape when squeezed (inset). Trowel the mortar onto the subfloor, building the prepan from the flange of the drain piece to the height line on the perimeter of the walls.

Continue using the trowel to form the prepan, checking the slope using a level and filling any low spots with mortar. Finish the surface of the prepan with a wood float until it is even and smooth. Allow the mortar to cure overnight.

Measure the dimensions of the shower floor and mark them out on a sheet of CPE waterproof membrane using a felt-tipped marker. From the floor outline, measure out and mark an additional 8” for each wall and 16” for the curb end. Cut the membrane to size using a utility knife and straightedge. Be careful to cut on a clean, smooth surface to prevent puncturing the membrane. Lay the membrane onto the shower pan.

Measure to find the exact location of the drain and mark it on the membrane, outlining the outer diameter of the drain flange. Cut a circular piece of CPE membrane roughly 2” larger than the drain flange, then use CPE membrane solvent glue to weld it into place and reinforce the seal at the drain.

Apply CPE sealant around the drain. Fold the membrane along the floor outline. Set the membrane over the pre-pan so the reinforced drain seal is centered over the drain bolts. Working from the drain to the walls, carefully tuck the membrane tightly into each corner, folding the extra material into triangular flaps.

Apply CPE solvent glue to one side, press the flap flat, then staple it in place. Staple only the top edge of the membrane to the blocking; do not staple below the top of the curb or on the curb itself.

At the shower curb, cut the membrane along the studs so it can be folded over the curb. Solvent-glue a dam corner at each inside corner of the curb. Do not fasten the dam corners with staples.

At the reinforced drain seal on the membrane, locate and mark the drain bolts. Press the membrane down around the bolts, then use a utility knife to carefully cut a slit just large enough for the bolts to poke through. Push the membrane down over the bolts.

Use a utility knife to carefully cut away only enough of the membrane to expose the drain and allow the middle drain piece to fit in place. Remove the drain bolts, then position the middle drain piece over the bolt holes. Reinstall the bolts, tightening them evenly and firmly to create a watertight seal.

Test the shower pan for leaks overnight. Place a balloon tester in the drain below the weep holes, and fill the pan with water to 1” below the top of the curb. Mark the water level and let the water sit overnight. If the water level remains the same, the pan holds water. If the level is lower, locate and fix leaks in the pan using patches of membrane and CPE solvent.

Install cementboard on the alcove walls, using 1/4” wood shims to lift the bottom edge off the CPE membrane. To prevent puncturing the membrane, do not use fasteners in the lower 8” of the cementboard. Cut a piece of metal lath to fit around the three sides of the curb. Bend the lath so it tightly conforms to the curb. Pressing the lath against the top of the curb, staple it to the outside face of the curb. Mix enough mortar for the two sides of the curb.

Overhang the front edge of the curb with a straight 1× board, so it is flush with the outer wall material. Apply mortar to the mesh with a trowel, building to the edge of the board. Clear away excess mortar, then use a torpedo level to check for plumb, making adjustments as needed. Repeat for the inside face of the curb. Allow the mortar to cure overnight.

Attach the drain strainer piece to the drain, adjusting it to a minimum of 11/2” above the shower pan. On one wall, mark 11/2” up from the shower pan, then use a level to draw a reference line around the perimeter of the shower base. Because the prepan establishes the 1/4” per foot slope, this measurement will maintain that slope.

Spread tile spacers over the weep holes of the drain to prevent mortar from plugging the holes. Mix the floor mortar, then build up the shower floor to roughly half the thickness of the base. Cut metal lath to cover the mortar bed, keeping it 1/2” from the drain (see photo in step 18).

Continue to add mortar, building the floor to the reference line on the walls. Use a level to check the slope, and pack mortar into low spots with a trowel. Leave space at the drain for the thickness of the tile. Float the surface using a wood float until it is smooth and slopes evenly to the drain. When finished, allow the mortar to cure overnight before installing the tiles.

After the floor has cured, draw reference lines and establish the tile layout, then mix a batch of thinset mortar and install the floor tile. At the curb, cut the tiles for the inside to protrude 1/2” above the unfinished top of the curb and the tiles for the outside to protrude 5/8” above the top, establishing a 1/8” slope so water drains back into the shower. Use a level to check the tops of the tiles for level as you work.

Mix enough floor mortar to cover the unfinished top of the curb, then pack it in place between the tiles using a trowel. Screed off the excess mortar flush with the tops of the side tiles. Allow the mortar to cure, then install bullnose cap tile. Install the wall tile, then grout, clean, and seal all the tile. After the grout has cured fully, run a bead of silicone caulk around all inside corners to create control joints.

A curbless shower is a natural part of a wet room. A single wall-surface material is commonly used on all walls for ease of installation and to unify the look.

A curbless shower kit includes almost everything you need. All you have to supply are some basic tools, the tile, and a little elbow grease.

Reinforce the floor with blocking between joists as necessary. Toenail bridge blocking in on either side of the drain waste-pipe location, and between joists anywhere you’ll need a nailing surface along the edges of the shower pan. If trusses or joists are spaced more than 16” on center, add bridge blocking to adequately support the pan.

Set the pan in the opening to make sure it fits and is level. If it is not level, screw shims to the tops of any low joists and check again; repeat if necessary until the pan is perfectly level in all directions.

Install or relocate drain pipes as needed. Check with your local building department: if the drain and trap are not accessible from below you may need to have an onsite inspection before you cover up the plumbing.

Check the height of the drain pipe. Its top should be exactly 23/8” from the bottom of the pan—measure down from the top of the joist. If the drain pipe is too high, remove it and trim with a tubing cutter. If it is too low, replace the assembly with a new assembly that has a longer tailpiece.

Lay a thick bead of construction adhesive along the contact areas on all joists, nailing surfaces, and blocking.

Set the pan in place and screw it down using at least 2 screws along each side. Do not overtighten the screws. If you’ve cut off the screwing flange on one or more sides to accommodate an unusual shape, drill 1/8” pilot holes in the cut edges at joist or blocking locations and drive the screws through the holes.

Disassemble the supplied drain assembly. Be careful not to lose any of the screws. Place the drain tailpiece on the waste pipe under where the pan’s drainhole will be located and measure to check that it sits at the correct level. Solvent-glue the tailpiece to the end of the waste pipe.

Position the supplied gaskets on top of the tailpiece (check the manufacturer’s instructions; the gaskets usually need to be layered in the correct order). Set the drain flange piece on top of the tail and into the drain hole in the pan. Drill 1/8” pilot holes through the flange and into the pan. Screw the flange to the pan.

Thread the tail top piece into the tail through the drain flange. Use a speed square or other lever, such as spread-channel lock pliers, to snugly tighten the tail top piece in place.

Install tile underlayment for the rest of the project area. If the underlayment is higher than the top of the pan once it is installed, you’ll have to sand it to level, gradually tapering away from the pan.

Scrape any stickers or other blemishes off the pan with a putty knife. Lightly sand the entire surface of the pan using 120-grit sandpaper to help the sealant adhere. After you’re done sanding, wipe down the sanded pan with a damp sponge. Make sure the entire area is clean.

Seal the edge seams at the wall and between the pan and subfloor with waterproof latex sealant. Caulk any pan screw holes that were not used.

Cut strips of waterproofing tape to cover all seams in the tile underlayment (both walls and floor). Also cut strips for the joints where walls and floor meet. Open the pail of liquid waterproofing membrane and mix the liquid thoroughly. Beginning at the top and working down, brush a bed of waterproofing liquid over the seams. Before it dries, set the tape firmly into the waterproofing. Press and smooth the tape. Then brush a layer of waterproofing compound over the tape.

Trace a hole in the center of the waterproof drain gasket using the bottom of the drain clamping donut. Cut the hole out using scissors. Be careful cutting the gasket because it is a crucial part of the drain waterproofing. Check the fit with the gasket against the underside of the clamping donut top flange.

Apply a thin coat of the waterproofing compound around the drain hole and to the back of the drain gasket. Don’t apply too much; if the waterproofing is too thick under the gasket, it may not dry correctly.

Put the gasket in place and brush a coat of the waterproofing over the gasket. Screw the clamping donut in place on the top of the drain and over the membrane. Hand-tighten the bolts and then cover the clamping donut with the waterproofing compound (avoid covering the slide lock for the drain grate).

Use a roller to roll waterproofing compound across the walls and over the entire pan surface. The ideal is 4mm thick (about the thickness of a credit card). Allow this first coat to dry for 2 hours, then cover with a second coat. This should conclude the waterproofing phase of the project, and you’re ready to begin laying tile once the waterproofing compound has dried thoroughly.

Set the floor tile first. Begin by placing a sample of the floor tile directly next to the drain so you can set the drain grate height to match. The adjustable mounting plate for the grate should be flush with the tops of the tile.

Begin laying floor tile in the corner of the shower. Lay a bed of thinset tile adhesive, using a notched trowel. The thinset container should specify the notch size (3/8” square notch is common).

Place the corner tile into the bed of thinset and press it to set it. Don’t press down too hard or you will displace too much of the material. Continue laying tile, fanning out from the corner toward the drain opening. Leave space around the drain opening as it is likely you’ll need to cut tiles to fit.

Install tile so a small square of untiled area is left around the drain opening (which, in the system seen here, is square, making for an easier cutting job).

Mark the tiles that surround the drain opening for cutting. Leave a small gap between the tiles next to the drain-grate mounting plate.

Cut the tiles along the trim lines using a tile saw. If you are not comfortable using a tile saw, score the tiles and cut them with tile nippers.

Apply thinset onto the shower pan, taking care not to get any on the drain-grate mounting plate. You may need to use a small trowel or a putty knife to get into small gaps.

Set the cut tiles around the drain opening, doing your best to maintain even gaps that match the gaps in the rest of the floor. Once you’ve finished tiling around the drain, finish setting floor tile in the rest of the project area.

Let the floor tile set overnight and then apply grout. Using a grout sponge, wipe the grout over the gaps so all gaps are filled evenly. After the grout dries, buff the floor with a towel to wipe up excess residue.

Snap the grate cover into the cover mounting plate (if you’ve stuffed a rag into the drain opening to keep debris out, be sure to remove it first). The grate cover seen here locks in with a small key that should be saved in case you need to remove the grate cover.

Begin setting the wall tile. Generally, it’s easiest if you start at the bottom and work upward. Instead of thinset adhesive, an adhesive mat is being used here. This relatively new product is designed for walls and is rated for waterproof applications. It is a good idea to use a spacer (1/4” thick or so) to get an even border at the bottoms of the first tiles.

In the design used here, a border of the same mosaic tile used in the floor is installed all around the shower area to make the first course. Dark-brown accent tiles are installed in a single vertical column running upward, centered on the line formed by the shower faucet and showerhead. This vertical column is installed after the bottom border.

Next, another vertical column of accent tiles is installed on each side of the large, dark tiles. These columns are also laid using the floor tile, which connects the walls and floor visually in an effective way.

Finally, larger field tiles that match the floor tile used outside the shower area are installed up to the corner and outward from the shower area. Starting at the bottom, set a thin spacer on top of the border tiles to ensure even gaps.

Grout the gaps in the wall tiles. It’s usually a good idea to protect any fittings, such as the shower faucet handle escutcheon, with painter’s tape prior to grouting. If you wish, a clear surround may be installed to visually define the shower area, as in the photo to the right, but because the shower pan is pitched toward the drain it really is not necessary.

A tub alcove is sized to accept a standard bathtub, usually 5’ long in most of North America. A tub with an apron is typical, but you can build out the front instead if you choose.

The plumbing for a bathtub includes hot and cold supply pipes, shutoff valves, a faucet, and a spout. Supply connections can be made before or after the tub is installed. The drain-waste-overflow system for a bathtub includes the overflow pipe, drain T-fitting, P-trap, and branch drain. The overflow pipe assembly is attached to the tub before installation.

A drain-waste-overflow kit with a stopper mechanism must be attached to the tub before it is installed. Available in both brass and plastic types, most kits include an overflow coverplate, a height-adjustable overflow pipe, a drain T-fitting and tailpiece, a waste drain tube, and a drain coverplate that screws into the drain tube.

Add fiberglass insulation around the body of a steel bathtub to reduce noise and conserve heat. Before setting the tub in position, wrap unfaced batting around the tub and secure it with string or twine. For showers, deck-mounted whirlpools, and saunas, insulate between the framing members.

Check the subfloor for level—if it is not level, use pour-on floor leveler compound to correct it (ask at your local home center). Make sure the supply and drain pipes and the shutoff valves are in good repair and correct any problems you encounter. If you have no bath fan in the alcove, now is the perfect time to add one.

Check the height of the crossbraces for the faucet body and the showerhead. If your family members needed to stoop to use the old shower, consider raising the brace for the showerhead. Read the instructions for your new faucet/diverter and check to see that the brace for the faucet body will conform to the requirements (this includes distance from the surround wall as well as height). Adjust the brace locations as needed.

Begin by installing the new water-supply plumbing. Measure to determine the required height of your shower-riser tube and cut it to length. Attach the bottom of the riser to the faucet body and the top to the shower elbow.

Attach the faucet body to the crossbrace with pipe-hanger straps. Then, attach supply tubing from the stop valves to the faucet body, making sure to attach the hot water to the left port and cold to the right port. Also secure the shower elbow to its crossbrace with a pipe strap. Do not attach the shower arm yet.

Slide the bathtub into the alcove. Make sure the tub is flat on the floor and pressed flush against the back wall. If your tub did not come with a tub protector, cut a piece of cardboard to line the tub bottom, and tape pieces of cardboard around the rim to protect the finish from damage.

Mark locations for ledger boards. To do this, trace the height of the top of the tub’s nailing flange onto the wall studs in the alcove. Then remove the tub and measure the height of the nailing flange. Measure down this same amount from your flange lines and mark new ledger-board locations.

Install 1 × 4 ledger boards. Drive two or three 3” galvanized deck screws through the ledger board at each stud. All three walls should receive a ledger. Leave an open space in the wet wall to allow clearance for the drain-waste-overflow (DWO) kit.

Install the drain-waste-overflow (DWO) pipes before you install the tub. Make sure to get a good seal on the slip nuts at the pipe joints. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to make sure the pop-up drain linkage is connected properly. Make sure rubber gaskets are positioned correctly at the openings on the outside of the tub.

Thread the male-threaded drain strainer into the female-threaded drain-waste elbow. Wrap a coil of plumber’s putty around the drain outlet underneath the plug rim first. Hand-tighten only.

Attach the overflow coverplate, making sure the pop-up drain controls are in the correct position. Tighten the mounting screws that connect to the mounting plate to sandwich the rubber gasket snugly between the overflow pipe flange and the tub wall. Then, finish tightening the drain strainer against the waste elbow by inserting the handle of a pair of pliers into the strainer body and turning.

Place the tub back into the alcove, taking care not to bump the DWO assembly and disturb the connections. You definitely will want a helper for this job. If the drain outlet of the DWO assembly is not directly over the drain pipe when the tub is in position, you’ll need to remove it and adjust the drain line location.

Attach the drain outlet from the DWO assembly to the drain P-trap. If your alcove walls are covered, you will appreciate that you spent the time to create a roomy access panel for the tub plumbing. Test the drain and overflow to make sure they don’t leak. Also test the water-supply plumbing, temporarily attaching the handles, spout, and shower arm so you can operate the faucet and the diverter.

Drive a 11/2” galvanized roofing nail at each stud location, just over the top of the tub’s nailing flange (inset). The nail head should pin the flange to the stud. For extra protection against moisture penetration, nail strips of metal flashing to the studs so they cover the tub flange.

Install the wall coverings and tub surround (see here for a 3-piece surround installation). You can also make a custom surround from tileboard or cementboard and tile.

Install fittings. First, thread the shower arm into the shower elbow and attach the spout nipple to the valve assembly. Also attach the shower head and escutcheon, the faucet handle/diverter with escutcheon, and the tub spout. Use thread lubricant on all parts.

Three-piece tub surrounds are inexpensive and come in many colors and styles. The typical unit has two end panels and a back panel that overlap in the corners to form a watertight seal. They are formed from fiberglass, PVC, acrylic, or proprietary resin-based polymers. Five-piece versions are also available and typically have more features, such as integral soap shelves and even cabinets.

Replace the wall coverings with appropriate materials, such as water- and mold-resistant wallboard or cementboard (for ceramic-tile installations). Make sure the new wall surfaces are smooth and flat. Some surround-kit manufacturers recommend that you apply a coat of primer to sheet goods such as greenboard to create a better bonding surface for the panel adhesive.

Test-fit the panels before you start; the tub may have settled unevenly or the walls may be out of plumb. Check the manufacturer’s directions for distinguishing right and left panels. Place a panel in position on the tub ledge. Use a level across the top of the panel to determine if it is level. Create a vertical reference line to mark the edge of the panel on the plumbing end.

After performing the test fit, check the fitting instructions to see if you need to trim any of the pieces. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for cutting. Here, we had to cut the corner panels because the instructions advise not to overlap the back or side panel over the corner panels by more than 3”. Cut panels using a jigsaw and a fine-tooth blade that is appropriate for cutting fiberglass or acrylic tileboard.

Lay out the locations of the faucets, spout, and shower arm. Measure in from the vertical reference line (made in step 3) and up from the top of the tub ledge. Remeasure for accuracy, as any cuts to the surround are final. Place the panel face-up on a sheet of plywood. Mark the location of the holes. Cut the holes 1/2” larger than the pipe diameter. If your faucet has a recessed trim plate, cut the hole to fit the recess. Using a hole saw or a jigsaw, cut out the plumbing access holes.

Apply the panel adhesive to the back of an end plumbing panel. Circle the plumbing outlet holes 1” from the edge. Follow the manufacturer’s application pattern. Do not apply adhesive closer than 1” to the double-sided tape or the bottom edge of the panel.

Remove the protective backing from the tape. Carefully lift the panel by the edges and place against the corner and top of the tub ledge. Press firmly from top to bottom in the corner, then throughout the panel.

Test-fit the opposite end panel and make any necessary adjustments. Apply the adhesive, remove the protective backing from the tape, and put in place. Apply pressure to the corner first from top to bottom, and then apply pressure throughout.

Apply adhesive to the back panel following the manufacturer’s instructions. Maintain a 1” space between adhesive tape and the bottom of the panel. Remove protective backing from the tape. Lift the panel by the edges and carefully center between the two end panels. When positioned, firmly press in place from top to bottom.

Apply caulk to the bottom and top edges of the panels and at panel joints. Dip your fingertip in water and use it to smooth the caulk to a uniform bead.

Apply silicone caulk to escutcheons or trim plates and reinstall them. Allow a minimum of 24 hours for caulk and adhesive to cure thoroughly before using the shower or tub.

Drop-in tubs are usually deep but not necessarily wide. That makes them ideal for the long, narrow spaces that are so common in home bathrooms. They are especially effective when placed under windows, as this one has been. This tub has been set into a modest platform, but the tub itself adds big luxury in what amounts to a small footprint.

Measure and mark 131/2” from the inside edge of the open side sole plates at several points along the plates. These marks will serve as guide points for placing the sole plates of the outside platform walls. Line up the outside edge of the two outer-wall sole plates and screw them in place to the subfloor. Measure again to ensure the sole plates are positioned correctly.

Remove the tub and hammer a nail in at each corner point. Snap chalk lines to represent the inside lines of the inner platform wall. Measure, cut, and align the 2 × 4 sole plates with the chalk lines. Screw all four sole plates for the inside platform wall into position. Check diagonal measurements or use a framing square to ensure the sole plates are square.

Measure from under the lip edge to the subfloor. This will be the height of the platform wall framing, minus the CDX plywood decking, 1/2” cementboard, and tile.

Measure and cut studs to create the proper platform height. Install studs for both inside and outside platform walls, spacing them every 16”. Use L configurations at corners so that the top plates intersect opposite the sole plates. Cut crossbraces and screw them in place, staggering with the stud placement.

Route supply lines from the wet wall to the location of the deck-mount faucet. The connections will depend on what type of deck-mount faucet you’ve chosen. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for securing the hot and cold connections for the faucet. If you’re unsure of how to plumb the faucet, hire a plumber.

Measure and cut CDX plywood for the platform deck (the deck for the two open sides should overhang the outside wall edge by 1/2” to cover the cementboard that will be used on the walls). Screw the decking into position. If you will be mounting the faucet on the deck, cut holes for the valve handles and spout before screwing down that portion of the deck.

Measure and cut the deck cementboard to cover the plywood. Cut to the same overhang as the plywood and drill holes for the faucet if it will be deck mounted (the one seen here is mounted to the tub deck). Screw cementboard to the plywood deck over the top rail and crossbraces. Also attach cementboard to the platform aprons.

Attach wall coverings in the installation area. Here, six courses of wall tile will be installed on the walls above the tub deck. A strip of cementboard the same width as the total tile height is attached to the wall as a backer for the tile. Then, water-resistant drywall is installed to span from the cementboard to the ceiling to create a smooth, paintable wall surface.

Lay tile over the deck surface and the platform aprons using bullnose tile around the two outside edges. Tile on the inside edge of the platform does not need to be finished—it will be covered by the tub lip. Also install wall tiles.

Grout the platform and walls with sanded grout. Buff off excess grout with a coarse rag. Apply a grout sealing product after the grout has dried for several days (this may be done after the tub is installed if you do not want to wait).

Install the tub. Attach the drain-waste-overflow connection to the tub. Trowel a 1/2” bed of mortar on the subfloor where the tub bottom will sit (unless manufacturer’s directions state otherwise). Set the tub in place in the platform opening, press down into the mortar, and check for level. There should be a very slight gap between the tub lip’s bottom edge and the top of the tile.

Let the mortar bed dry and, working through the open walls and under the platform deck, connect the drain tailpiece to the trap. A large access panel lets you get at both the supply and drain hookups.

Apply a bead of tub-and-tile caulk in the seam between the tub lip and the tiled deck surface. Wet your finger and smooth the bead for a finished look.

Mark locations for supply risers and drain tailpipe on the floor. Drill starter holes and double-check below the floor to make sure floor joists will not be directly under the access holes. Use a hole saw slightly wider than each pipe to drill access holes. Install supply lines and drain line.

Install the drain-waste-overflow assembly according to the manufacturer’s instructions. With a freestanding tub, it is often easiest to join the assembly parts working upward from the drain-pipe connection in the floor. Install the drain flange in the tub, fastening it from the top into the drain shoe. Make the connection to the drain pipe in the floor—if the kit comes with a floor escutcheon that covers the drain connection, make sure it is in place before you attach the tailpipe to the T.

Fasten the overflow cover to the overflow receiver with the bolt or bolts that are provided. Be sure to position the rubber gasket that came with the drain kit so it fits neatly against the tub wall. Do not overtighten the fasteners.

Assemble the faucet according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Most older clawfoot tubs have a 2-valve faucet with a gooseneck spigot that mounts directly to the wall of the tub at the foot end. Many newer freestanding tubs utilize a wall-mounted faucet.

Mount the faucet body to the tub wall with the retainer nuts that thread onto the faucet valve stems.

Attach the supply risers to the valve inlets for the faucet. Put the supply-pipe base escutcheons in place on the floor over the supply-line connections. Secure the risers into the supply connections below the floor. Turn on the water supply and test to make sure there are no leaks in any of the pipes or fitting connections, including the drain and overflow.

A spout with a diverter, some metal supply tubing, and a shower-curtain frame can add showering capacity to a standalone tub.

A packaged kit for adding a shower to your tub features a faucet with diverter (A), shower-riser plumbing (B), showerhead (C), a frame for the shower curtain (D) that mounts on the wall and ceiling with threaded rods (E), and fasteners and fittings (F).

Assemble the curtain frame with a helper, securing it with setscrews. Hold the frame level and measure to the ceiling to determine the ceiling-brace pipe length. Cut the pipe and complete the ceiling-brace assembly. Set the shower riser to the desired height and connect the brace to the wall (ensure strong connections by driving the mounting screws into a wall stud and ceiling joist, if possible).

After the curtain frame is completely assembled and secured, tighten the faucet connection with a wrench. Full-size shower kits require one shower curtain on each side of the curtain frame. The hooks seen here feature roller bearings on the tops so they can be operated very smoothly with minimal resistance.

A sliding tub door in a metal frame gives the room a sleek, clean look and is just one of the available options.

Measure the distance between the finished walls along the top of the tub ledge. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for figuring the track dimensions. For the product seen here, 3/16” is subtracted from the measurement to calculate the track dimensions.

Using a hacksaw and a miter box, carefully cut the track to the proper dimension. Center the track on the bathtub ledge with the taller side out and so the gaps are even at each end. Tape into position with masking tape.

Place a wall channel against the wall with the longer side out and slide into place over the track so they overlap. Use a level to check the channel for plumb, and then mark the locations of the mounting holes on the wall with a marker. Repeat for the other wall channel. Remove the track.

Drill mounting holes for the wall channel at the marked locations. In ceramic tile, nick the surface of the tile with a center punch, use a 1/4” masonry bit to drill the hole, and then insert the included wall anchors. For fiberglass surrounds, use a 1/8” drill bit; wall anchors are not necessary.

Apply a bead of silicone sealant along the joint between the tub and the wall at the ends of the track. Apply a minimum 1/4” bead of sealant along the outside leg of the track underside.

Position the track on the tub ledge and against the wall. Attach the wall channels using the provided screws. Do not use caulk on the wall channels at this time.

At a location above the tops of the wall channels, measure the distance between the walls. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for calculating the header dimensions. For the doors seen here, the header dimension is the distance between the walls minus 1/16”. Measure the header and carefully cut it to length using a hacksaw and a miter box. Slide the header down on top of the wall channels until seated.

Mount the rollers in the roller-mounting holes. To begin, use the roller-mounting holes second from the top. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for spacer or washer placement and direction.

Carefully lift the inner panel by the sides and place the rollers on the inner roller track. Roll the door toward the shower end of the tub. The edge of the panel should touch both rubber bumpers. If it doesn’t, remove the door and move the rollers to different holes. Drive the screws by hand to prevent overtightening.

Lift the outer panel by the sides with the towel bar facing out from the tub. Place the outer rollers over the outer roller track. Slide the door to the end opposite the shower end of the tub. If the door does not contact both bumpers, remove the door and move the rollers to different mounting holes.

Apply a bead of silicone sealant to the inside seam of the wall and wall channel at both ends and to the U-shaped joint of the track and wall channels. Smooth the sealant with a fingertip dipped in water.

Air-jet tubs create a relaxing massage action, agitating the water with air. The air jets eliminate concerns about stagnant water and bacteria that can be a problem in the pipes of water-jet tubs.

Make framing improvements such as adding 1 × 4 bracing at supply risers and faucet-body locations. For drop-in tubs that do not have nailing flanges, you may need to add short stub walls to provide a stable resting point. Here, a short stub wall was installed at one end to serve as the tub wet wall.

Cut the drain tailpiece to length depending on the distance you’ll need to span to the trap. Use a hacksaw or tubing cutter to make the cut.

Prepare the floor or subfloor. Check with a level and fill any dips with floor leveling compound or mortar. If there is a joint in the subfloor in the installation area, make sure the sides are level. (The floor has to be level in order to support the weight of the tub, the water, and bathers.) Also make sure there is no rot or weakness in the structural elements.

Test the tub fit. First, cut a piece of the shipping carton to fit inside the tub and protect its surface. Have someone help you slide the tub into the installation area, flush against the wall studs, so you can check the fit.

Set a 4’ level across the rim of the tub and check it for level. If it is not level, place shims under the tub until it is.

Mark the top of the tub’s rim or nailing flange at each stud as a reference for installing additional supports or ledgers. Remove the tub from the alcove.

Add support frames or ledgers as directed by the manufacturer and secure them in the installation area so the top of the tub or nailing flange will be at the height you scribed in step 7.

Assemble the drain-waste-overflow kit to fit the drain and overflow openings, following the tub manufacturer’s directions. Install the DWO kit (it is virtually impossible to attach it once the tub is in place).

Fasten the threaded parts of the drain assembly. A ring of plumber’s putty between the drain coverplate and the tub will help create a good seal. If you will be installing a pop-up drain, install it now as well.

Attach the overflow coverplate so it conceals the overflow opening. Adjust the pop-up drain-plug linkage as directed by the manufacturer.

Begin the actual installation. For some tubs, it is recommended that you trowel a layer of thinset mortar in the installation area. But read your instructions carefully. Many tubs feature integral feet that are meant to rest directly on the floor.

Slide the tub back into the opening. Remove the skids, if you are using them. Press down evenly on the tub rims until they make solid contact with the ledgers or frames.

Provide support for the tub on the open side if it does not have a structural skirt. Here, a 2 × 4 stub wall is built to the exact height of the underside of the rim and then attached in place. Screw it to both end walls and to the floor.

Cover the gaps in the wall coverings around the tub. Here, cementboard is installed in preparation for a tile backsplash. If your tub has nailing flanges, attach strips of metal flashing to the wall so they extend down to within about 1/4” of the tub rim. If your tub has a removable apron, install it.

Make wiring connections according to the tub manufacturer’s instructions. The requirements vary greatly among jetted tubs. Some municipalities may require that a licensed professional do this work. Here, the airflow regulator is being wired. Note that most codes have a safety requirement that the on/off switch must be located so it cannot be reached by a bather in the tub.

Test the operation of the tub before you finish the walls or deck in case there is a hidden problem. Fill it with a hose if you have not installed the faucet (the faucet normally is installed after the wall surfaces, unless you are deck-mounting the faucet on the tub rim). Run the tub. If it works, go ahead and drain the water.

Finish the wall surfaces. Here, a tile surround and backsplash are being installed over the cementboard backer. The wall covering at the front of the wet wall is installed so it is easy to remove for plumbing access.

Hook up the faucet to the water supply plumbing according to the manufacturer’s directions (or have your plumber do the job). Remove the aerator from the tip of the spout and run water through it to clear out any debris. Attach the aerator, fill the tub, and have yourself a nice, relaxing soak.

In many bathtub-shower plumbing systems, the spout has the important job of housing the diverter—a gate inside the spout that is operated by a lever with a knob. An open gate allows water to come out of the spout when the faucet is turned on. When the diverter is pulled shut, the water is redirected up a riser pipe and to the showerhead. Failure of the diverter is one of the most common reasons for replacing a spout.

A 2-handle faucet has valves that are either compression or cartridge design.

A single-handle faucet has valves that are cartridge, ball-type, or disc design.

Clean the copper nipple with steel wool. If you find any sharp edges where the nipple was cut, smooth them out with emery paper. Then, insert the O-ring that comes with the spout onto the nipple (see the manufacturer’s instructions) and slide the spout body over the nipple in an upside-down position.

With the spout upside down for ease of access, tighten the setscrews on the clamp, working through the access slot or cutout, until you feel resistance.

Spin the spout so it’s right-side up, then tighten the setscrew from below, making sure the wall end of the spout is flush against the wall. Do not overtighten the setscrew.

Wrap several courses of Teflon tape clockwise onto the pipe threads of the nipple. Using extra Teflon tape on the threads creates resistance if the spout tip points past 6 o’clock when tight.

Twist the new spout onto the nipple until it is flush against the wall and the spout is oriented properly. If the spout falls short of 6 o’clock, you may protect the finish of the spout with tape and twist it a little beyond hand tight with your channel-type pliers—but don’t overdo it; the fitting can crack.

The appearance of the spout gives good clues as to which kind of nipple it is connected to. A spout with no diverter (A) is probably connected to a 3”-long threaded nipple. To install a diverter spout you’ll need to replace the 3” threaded nipple with a shorter threaded nipple that sticks out no more than 1/2” from the wall—not too big of a job. If the spout has a small setscrew in a slot on the underside (B), it is probably attached with a slip fitting to a 1/2” copper supply nipple. Unless you are able to solder a new transition fitting onto the old pipe after cutting it, call a plumber to install the new spout here. Spouts with outlets for shower adapters (C) require a short threaded nipple (or comparable union) that sticks out from the wall no more than 3/4”.

Converting a plain bathtub into a tub-shower is a relatively easy task when you use a flexible shower adapter that fits onto a special replacement tub spout.

If you have a long iron or brass nipple like this, you need to replace it with a short one. Threaded nipples have threads at each end, so you can usually unscrew the old one. Mark the nipple at the face of the wall and write “front” on your side. Unscrew it counterclockwise with a pipe wrench. Get a threaded brass nipple of the same diameter that is about 1/2” longer than the distance from the back of your old nipple to your line.

Wrap 6 layers of Teflon tape clockwise on the nipple and thread into the wall. Thread the reducing bushing onto the nipple. Thread the adapter spout on. Tighten farther with a screwdriver or dowel to orient the spout correctly.

Attach a flexible shower hose to the adapter hose outlet. Tighten with an adjustable wrench.

Determine the location of the showerhead bracket. Use the hose length as a guide, and make sure the showerhead can be lifted off the bracket with ease.

Mark the hole locations. Use a glass-and-tile bit in the size recommended by the manufacturer. Wear eye protection, and drill holes in the tile at the marks. Insert anchors and tap them in place with a wooden mallet. Screw the showerhead bracket to the wall.

In this chapter:

• Pedestal & Console Sinks

• Wall-Mounted Sinks

A console bathroom sink is a wall-mounted lavatory with two front legs that provide backup support. Many have a narrow apron to conceal the drain trap.

A pedestal sink typically is hung on the wall. The primary function of the pedestal is to conceal plumbing and provide visual appeal.

Set aside the basin and pedestal. Drill pilot holes in the wall and floor at the reference points, then reposition the pedestal. Anchor the pedestal to the floor with lag screws.

Set the basin and pedestal in position and brace them with 2 × 4s. Outline the top of the basin on the wall, and mark the base of the pedestal on the floor. Mark reference points on the wall and floor through the mounting holes found on the back of the sink and the bottom of the pedestal.

Attach the faucet set to the sink, then set the sink onto the pedestal. Align the holes on the back flange of the sink with the pilot holes drilled in the wall, then drive lag screws with washers into the wall brace using a ratchet wrench. Attach the sink-stopper mechanism to the sink drain.

Hook up the drain and supply fittings. Caulk between the back of the sink and the wall when installation is finished.

Although a wall-mounted sink offers many benefits—accessibility to wheelchair users among them—there’s no need to sacrifice chic style for that functionality.

Drill guide holes for the mounting bolts if your sink is a direct-mount model, as this one is. Some wall-hung sinks are hung from a mounting bracket. The bolts used to hang this sink are threaded like lag screws on one end, with a bolt end that projects from the wall. The guide holes should be spaced exactly as the manufacturer specifies so they align with the mounting holes in the back mounting flange on the sink.

Drive the threaded mounting bolts (screw end first) into the guide holes. There should be pilot holes (smaller than the guide holes) driven into the blocking. To drive this hardware, spin a pair of nuts onto the bolt end and turn the bolt closest to you with a wrench. Drive the mounting bolt until the end is projecting out from the wall by a little more than 11/2”. Remove the nuts. Install the pop-up drain in the sink and then slide the sink over the ends of the mounting bolts so the mounting flange is flush against the wall. You’ll want help for this. Thread the washers and nuts onto the ends of the mounting bolts and hand-tighten. Check to make sure the sink is level and then tighten the nuts with a socket or wrench, reaching up into the void between the basin and the flange. Don’t overtighten—you could crack the sink flange.

Have a helper hold the sink pedestal (in this model, a half pedestal) in position against the underside of the sink. Mark the edges of the pedestal on the wall covering as reference for installing the pedestal-mounting hardware.

Remove the pedestal and drill the pilot holes for the pedestal-mounting bolts, which work in much the same way as the sink-mounting bolts. Drill guide and pilot holes, then drive the mounting bolts, leaving about 11/4” of the bolt end exposed.

Install the drain and drain tailpiece on the sink. Also mount the faucet body to the sink deck if you have not done so already. Also attach the drain-trap arm to the drain stub-out in the wall and attach shutoff valves to the drain-supply lines.

Complete the drain connection by installing a P-trap assembly that connects the tailpiece and the trap arm. Also connect the drain pop-up rod that projects out of the tailpiece to the pop-up plunger mechanism you’ve already installed.

Make sure the shutoff valve fittings are tight and oriented correctly, and then hook up the faucet supply risers to the shutoff valves. Turn on the water supply and test.

Slide the pedestal into place on the mounting studs. Working through the access space under the sink, use a wrench to tighten the mounting nut over the washer on the stud. Carefully tighten the nut until the pedestal is held securely in place. Be careful not to overtighten the nut.

Attach the towel bar to the sink by first pushing the well nuts into the holes on the underside of the sink rim. Set the bar in place, and screw in the attachment screws on both sides, just until snug.

Vessel sinks are available in countless styles of materials, shapes, and sizes. Their one commonality is that they all need to be installed on a flat surface.

Vessel sinks come in many forms and colors, but a plain, curvy, brightwhite sink like this one is pleasing in almost any bathroom and with almost any faucet.

Vessel sinks don’t have to be shaped like bowls. This rectangular tray sink is a cool alternative to a more common bowl shape and accents the chic, light wood vanity and cabinets in the room.

Vitreous china with a glazed enamel finish is an economical and durable choice for a vessel sink (although it is less durable than stone). Because of the flexibility of both the material and the glaze, the design options are virtually unlimited with vitreous china.

Begin hooking up the faucet. Insert the brass mounting stud into the threaded hole in the faucet base with the slotted end facing out. Hand-tighten, and then use a slotted screwdriver to tighten another half turn. Insert the inlet hoses into the faucet body and hand-tighten. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten another half turn. Do not overtighten.

Place the O-ring on top of the riser ring over the faucet cutout in the countertop. From underneath, slide the rubber gasket and the metal plate over the mounting stud. Thread the mounting stud nut onto the mounting stud and hand-tighten. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten another half turn.

To install the sink and pop-up drain, first place the small metal ring between two O-rings and place over the drain cutout.

Place the vessel bowl on top of the O-rings. In this installation, the vessel is not bonded to the countertop.

Put the small rubber gasket over the drain hole in the vessel. From the top, push the pop-up assembly through the drain hole.

From underneath, push the large rubber gasket onto the threaded portion of the pop-up assembly. Thread the nut onto the pop-up assembly and tighten. Use an adjustable wrench or basin wrench to tighten an additional half turn. Thread the tailpiece onto the pop-up assembly.

Install the drum trap. Loosen the rings on the top and outlet of the drum trap. Slide the drum-trap top hole over the tailpiece. Slide the drain arm into the side outlet with the flat side of the rubber gasket facing away from the trap. Insert the drain arm into the wall outlet. Hand-tighten the rings.

A traditional bathroom base cabinet serves to support an integral sink-countertop unit.

Slide the vanity into position so that the back rail of the cabinet can later be fastened to studs at both corners and in the center. The back of the cabinet should also be flush against the wall. (If the wall surface is uneven, position the vanity so it contacts the wall in at least one spot and the back cabinet rail is parallel with the wall.)

Using a level as a guide, shim below the vanity cabinet until the unit is level.

At the stud locations marked on the wall, drive 3” drywall screws through the rail on the cabinet back and into the framing members. The screws should be driven at both corners and in the center of the back rail.

Run a bead of caulk along small gaps between the vanity and wall, and between the vanity and floor. For larger gaps, use 1/4-round molding between the vanity and wall. Between the vanity and floor, install the same baseboard material used to cover the gap between the wall and floor.

An integral sink-countertop is the traditional match to a stock bathroom base cabinet.

Test-fit the countertop-sink unit to make sure it fits solidly on the vanity. If it wobbles, or if the cabinet itself could not be leveled, you can level the countertop by placing shims between the bottom of the countertop and the top edge of the vanity cabinet.

Remove the sink-countertop, place it on sawhorses, and then attach the faucet unit using the predrilled cutouts in the countertop. This is an easy matter of threading the mounting nuts onto the faucet tailpieces from below, but always make sure to follow the faucet manufacturer’s directions. If you wish, you can also preattach the water-supply tubes to the bottom of the faucet tailpieces.

Begin installing the drain unit, again following the package instructions. Make sure to use plumber’s putty or sealant between the sink surface and the bottom of the drain flange.

Finish up the drain installation by connecting the drain-stopper cable or lever to the pop-up drain fitting on the drain tailpiece.

Apply a bead of silicone caulk around the top lip of the vanity cabinet. Silicone caulk has good adhesive properties, and no other fasteners are required. Set the sink-countertop unit onto the cabinet, and press down firmly to bond it to the cabinet. Let the caulk dry completely before completing the plumbing hookups.

Complete the drain hookups by connecting the drain trap to the sink tailpiece at to the drain-arm pipe. Connect the water-supply tubes from the faucet tailpieces to the shutoff valves inside the cabinet.

Double-bowl vanities have drain plumbing that’s very similar to double-bowl kitchen sinks. In most cases, the drain tailpieces are connected beneath one of the tailpieces at a continuous waste T. The drain line from the second bowl must slope downward toward the T. From the T, the drain should have a trap (usually a P-trap) that connects to the trap arm coming out of the wall.

Remove the existing countertop and vanity. Turn off the house water supply at the main shutoff valve. Drain the remaining water by opening the faucet at the lowest point in the house. Use a hacksaw to remove existing undersink shutoff valves.

Slide the new dual-outlet valve onto the hot-water supply line, pass the nut and compression washer over the pipe, and tighten with a wrench. Install the dual-outlet valve on the cold supply line in the same way.

Secure the new vanity in place by screwing it to the wall. Lay a bead of caulk along the underside and back edge of the countertop, where it will contact the vanity and wall. Set the countertop in place and check it for level. If your sinks are not integral, install them according to the type of sink you’re using.

Seat the faucets for the double sinks as you would for a single sink, by applying a bead of putty on the underside of the bases (unless they are to be used with gaskets instead of putty). Secure them in place by tightening the locking nuts on the underside of the faucets.

Connect a new PVC P-trap to the undersink drain pipe, and attach a T-connector to the trap. Extend PVC connections to the drain assemblies of both sinks.

Connect the pop-up stopper linkage. Connect the cold-water supply lines to the appropriate faucet tailpieces and repeat with the hot-water supply lines. Turn on the main water supply, remove the faucet aerator, and run the water in the sinks. Check for leaks and replace the aerator.

An increasingly popular subset of single-hole faucets are touch faucets or motion-sensing faucets, such as the one shown here. Easy to install, these are also less challenging for anyone with motor-skill difficulties or serious disabilities to use.

Clean away any existing plumber’s putty or sealant from the surface of the sink, then lay a new bead of plumbers putty around each of the 3 openings. Install the 2 valves into the sink cutout openings by inserting the spout and valves and then threading the mounting screws onto the tailpieces from below the sink.

Exact mounting procedures vary; our faucet has retainer screws that are tightened after the mounting nut is threaded over the tailpieces. This secures the valves and spout tightly to the sink.

Repeat this procedure to install the center spout. Make sure the spout is aligned correctly to be perpendicular to the back of the sink.

Tighten the spout mounting nut securely. A basin wrench will make this easier, since access to the mounting nut may be difficult.

Attach the water connection tubes from the valve tailpieces to the spout tailpiece. Thread the mounting nuts by hand, then tighten slightly with channel-type pliers or an adjustable wrench (in tight quarters, this can also be done with a basin wrench).

Connect water-supply tubes from the water shutoff valves to the water-supply tubes on the faucet-valve tailpieces using an adjustable wrench (or basin wrench, where access is limited). In standard practice, the hot water normally connects to the left faucet valve and the cold water to the right. Turn on the water and test the faucet. If any fittings leak, tighten them slightly until they are watertight.

Attach the drain-stopper linkage to the push rod and to the stopper pivot lever.

A touch-on, touch-off faucet such as this can save water, make life easier for children and physically challenged users, and they come in a nice selection of style and finish options.

Slide the mounting bracket into place under the sink, on the mounting post. Be sure that the LED wire and supply lines are not crimped by the bracket. The mounting bracket needs to be oriented correctly; check the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure it’s situated in the right way and secured with the metal side down.

Ensure the LED wire is not crimped and thread the mounting-post nut on the mounting post. Hand-tighten. Check again that the faucet body is positioned correctly on the top of the sink and the LED light is facing forward. Tighten the mounting nut with a wrench, or with the tool supplied by the manufacturer, as shown here.

Insert the outlet tube into the top of the solenoid until it is snugly attached. Secure the tube in place with the metal clip provided. These clips can often be attached more than one way, so check the instructions to make sure you’ve installed the clip correctly. Then lightly pull on the solenoid to ensure the tube is firmly attached and won’t come free under pressure.

Slide the feeder hose into the bottom of the solenoid until it is snug. Snap the attachment clip in place to secure the hose, and again pull gently on the hose to make sure the clip is secure.

Touch the cold supply knob or another ground with your hand to dissipate any residual static charge. Remove the protective cap or endpiece from the end of the LED wire hanging from the faucet. Plug the prong of the wire into the hole in the solenoid. Make sure it is all the way in (on this model, you push until you hear a click).

Slide the solenoid ground wire onto the mounting post and secure it in place with a nut. Tighten the nut with a wrench, ensuring that the wires don’t twist together. Put the batteries in the battery box and then connect the wire from the solenoid to the connection on the battery box. Secure the battery box to the cabinet floor, wall, or underside of the sink according to the manufacturer’s directions and the type of vanity you have.

Installing a lavatory drain is a bit trickier than installing a kitchen-sink drain because most have a pop-up stopper with linkage.

Pop-up stoppers keep objects from falling down the drain, and they make filling and draining the sink easy. When you pull up on the lift rod, the clevis strap is raised, which raises the pivot rod, which seesaws on the pivot ball and pulls the pop-up stopper down against the flange. This blocks water through the sink drain, but water may still overflow into the overflow channel drain through overflow ports in the pop-up body. This is a nice feature if you leave the water running in a plugged basin by mistake.

The lavatory drain trap holds water that seals the drain line and prevents sewer gases from entering the home. Each time a drain is used, the standing trap water is flushed away and replaced by new water. The shape of the trap and fixture drain line resembles the letter P, and sink traps are called P-traps.

Unscrew the cap holding the ball-and-pivot rod in the pop-up body and withdraw the ball. Compress the spring clip on the clevis and withdraw the pivot rod from the clevis.

Remove the pop-up stopper. Then, from below, remove the lock nut on the stopper body. If needed, keep the flange from turning by inserting a large screwdriver in the drain from the top. Thrust the stopper body up through the hole to free the flange from the basin, and then remove the flange and the stopper body.

Clean the drain opening above and below, and then thread the locknut all the way down the new pop-up body followed by the flat washer and the rubber gasket (beveled side up). Wrap three layers of Teflon tape clockwise onto the top of the threaded body. Make a 1/2”-diameter snake from plumber’s putty, form it into a ring, and stick the ring underneath the drain flange.

From below, face the pivot-rod opening directly back toward the middle of the faucet and pull the body straight down to seat the flange. Thread the locknut/washer assembly up under the sink, then fully tighten the locknut with channel-type pliers. Do not twist the flange in the process, as this can break the putty seal. Clean off the squeezeout of plumber’s putty from around the flange.

Drop the pop-up stopper into the drain hole so the hole at the bottom of its post is closest to the back of the sink. Put the beveled nylon washer into the opening in the back of the pop-up body with the bevel facing back.

Put the cap behind the ball on the pivot rod as shown. Sandwich a hole in the clevis with the spring clip and thread the long end of the pivot rod through the clip and clevis. Put the ball end of the pivot rod into the pop-up body opening and into the hole in the the stopper stem. Screw the cap onto the pop-up body over the ball.

Loosen the clevis screw holding the clevis strap to the lift rod. Push the pivot rod all the way down (which fully opens the pop-up stopper). With the lift rod also all the way down, tighten the clevis screw to the rod. If the clevis runs into the top of the trap, cut it short with your hacksaw or tin snips. Reassemble the J-bend trap.

In this chapter:

• Toilets

• Bidets

Sleek new toilet options offer attractive bathroom additions that are also more comfortable than ever before. This toilet features a compact design with a rough-in distance of 10 inches, translating to a lot of extra floor space in front of the toilet. The seat itself is positioned at chair height, making it extra comfortable for most users.

Buy a toilet that will fit the space. Measure the distance from the floor bolts back to the wall (if your old toilet has two pairs of bolts, go by the rear pair). This is your rough-in distance and will be either 10”, 12”, or approximately 14”. Make note of the bowl shape, round or oval (long). Oval bowls (also called elongated bowls) are a few inches longer for greater comfort, but may be too big for your space. The safest bet is to buy a replacement with the same bowl shape. You can also opt for a wall-mounted unit. Although the installation is more involved, you can save up to a foot of floor space in front of the toilet—with the added bonus of being able to mount the toilet at whatever height works best for the primary users of the room.

Knowing how a toilet works isn’t essential to successful installation, but it helps. This cutaway photo features a pre-1.6-gallon-law model, so your new toilet will have a much smaller trap. When the flush handle on the tank is depressed, the water in the tank rushes out through the hole in the underside of the bowl rim. The onrushing water forces the contents of the bowl and the trap out through the closet flange and into the drain line, while the fresh tank water refills the bowl and trap.

Insert new closet bolts (don’t reuse old ones) into the openings in the closet flange. Make sure the heads of the bolts are oriented to catch the maximum amount of flange material.

Remove the wax ring and apply it to the underside of the bowl, around the horn. Remove the protective covering. Do not touch the wax ring. It is very sticky.

Lower the bowl onto the flange, taking care not to disturb the wax ring. The holes in the bowl base should align perfectly with the tank bolts. Add a washer and tighten a nut on each bolt. Hand-tighten each nut and then use channel-type pliers to further tighten the nuts. Alternate back and forth between nuts until the bowl is secure. Do not overtighten.

Attach the toilet tank. Some tanks come with a flush valve and a fill valve preinstalled, but if yours does not, insert the flush valve through the tank opening and tighten a spud nut over the threaded end of the valve. Place a foam or rubber spud washer on top of the spud nut.

Adjust the fill valve as directed by the manufacturer to set the correct tank water-level height and install the valve inside the tank. Hand-tighten the nylon lock nut that secures the valve to the tank (inset photo) and then tighten it farther with channel-type pliers.

With the tank lying on its back, thread a rubber washer onto each tank bolt and insert it into the bolt holes from inside the tank. Then, thread a brass washer and hex nut onto the tank bolts from below and tighten them to a 1/4-turn past hand tight. Do not overtighten.

Position the tank on the bowl, spud washer on the opening, bolts through bolt holes. Put a rubber washer followed by a brass washer and a wing nut on each bolt and tighten these up evenly.

You may stabilize the bolts with a large slotted screwdriver from inside the tank, but tighten the nuts, not the bolts. You may press down a little on a side, the front, or the rear of the tank to level it as you tighten the nuts by hand. Do not overtighten and crack the tank. The tank should be level and stable when you’re done.

Hook up the water supply by connecting the supply tube to the threaded fill valve with the coupling nut provided. Turn on the water and test for leaks.

Attach the toilet seat by threading the plastic or brass bolts provided with the seat through the openings on the back of the rim and attaching nuts.

Remove the old seat. If the nuts for the seat bolts are corroded, slip a hacksaw blade between the hinge plates and stool and cut the bolts.

Install the new height extender by bolting it to the stool through the seat-bolt holes. Attach a standard toilet seat to the extender.

A bidet is a useful companion to a toilet, and it is a luxury item you and your family will appreciate. For people with limited mobility, a bidet is an aid to independent personal sanitation.

Bidet drains have more in common with sink drains than with toilet drains. Some even attach to a drain arm in the wall with a P-trap that fits between the fixture drain tailpiece and the arm. Other bidets drain into a floor-drain outlet with a trap that’s situated between the tailpiece and the branch drain line.

A bidet requires a special faucet that allows you to mix hot and cold water to a temperature you find comfortable. It has a third knob to control the water pressure. The aerator and spout pivot to allow you to adjust the spray to a comfortable height.

You can get all the features of a bidet on your existing toilet with a number of aftermarket bidet seats. These seats feature heaters, sprayers, and dryers in basic or deluxe versions. Installation takes less than an hour, and no additional space is needed.

Apply a coil of plumber’s putty around the underside of the drain flange. Insert the flange in the drain hole, place the gasket and washer, and then thread the nut onto the flange. Do not fully tighten.

Install the pop-up drain apparatus according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Place the bidet in its final location, checking that supply and drain lines will be in alignment. Mark the locations of the two side-mounting holes through the predrilled holes on the stool and onto the floor.

Remove the bidet and drill 3/16” pilot holes at the marks on the floor. Drive the floor bolts (included with the bidet basin) into the holes. Position the bidet so the floor bolts fit into the bolt holes in the base. Tighten nuts onto the floor bolts.

Connect the water-supply risers to the bidet faucet using compression unions. Make sure to hook the hot and cold risers up to the correct ports on the faucet.

Hook up the drain line by attaching the P-trap to the drain tailpiece. The trap is then attached to a branch drain line coming out of the wall or floor in the same manner as a sink drain.

Remove the aerator so any debris in the supply line will clear and then turn on the water and open both faucets. Check for leaks in lines and fix, if found. Assemble the bolt caps and thread them onto the floor bolts.

In this chapter:

• Vanity Lights

• LED-Backlit Mirror

Vanity lights on the sides of the mirror provide ideal lighting for shaving, applying makeup, and other grooming tasks.

Mark the location for the fixtures and install new boxes. Install the boxes about 66” above the floor and 18 to 20” from the centerline of the mirror (the mounting base of some fixtures is above or below the bulb, so adjust the height of the bracing accordingly). If the correct location is on or next to a stud, you can attach the box directly to the stud; otherwise you’ll need to install blocking or use boxes with adjustable braces (shown).

Open the side knockouts on the electrical box above the vanity. Then drill 5/8” holes in the centers of any studs between the old fixture and the new ones. Run two NM cables from the new boxes for the fixtures to the box above the vanity. Protect the cable with metal protector plates. Secure the cables with cable clamps, leaving 11” of extra cable for making the connection to the new fixtures. Remove sheathing and strip insulation from the ends of the wires.

Connect the white wires from the new cables to the white wire from the old cable, and connect the black wires from the new cables to the black wire from the old cable. Connect the ground wires. Cover all open boxes and then replace the drywall, leaving openings for the fixture and the old box. (Cover the old box with a solid junction-box cover plate.)

Install the fixture mounting braces on the boxes. Attach the fixtures by connecting the black circuit wire to the black fixture wire and connecting the white circuit wire to the white fixture wire. Connect the ground wires. Position each fixture over each box, and attach with the mounting screws. Restore power and test the circuit.

An LED-backlit mirror adds a special element to a small—or even a large—bathroom, but the real benefit is a true-to-life representation in the mirror so you’ll see exactly what other people will see.

Detach the mirror from the base by loosening the mounting screws. If your mirror has illuminated LED strips, there may also be wire connections running from the base to the mirror panel that need to be detached before you go any further.

Remove the mirror base from the mirror panel. Establish a level line on the wall to mark where the bottom of the mirror will go. Installing a temporary ledger board along this line can help make installation easier.

Position the mirror base against the wall, and mark the location for the mounting holes on the wall. Ideally, you should be able to find locations over studs where you can mount the mirror base securely. Should this not be possible, you will need to attach plastic wall anchors to secure the mirror base or use toggle bolts to secure the mirror to the wall.

Secure the mirror base to the wall by driving mounting screws into wall studs, both at the top and bottom of the mirror on both sides. If you have access to wall studs on both sides, four screws driven near each corner should be sufficient to mount the mirror base securely. Plug in the electrical cord on the mirror base into the wall outlet.

Holding the mirror panel in place, use the quick-fit connector to establish the electrical connection between the mirror panel and the base. This work is easiest if you have a helper hold the mirror panel as you plug in the wiring.

Carefully hang the mirror panel onto the mounting bracket on the base. Align the mirror panel so the mounting screws are properly positioned.

Secure the mirror panel to the base using the mounting screws included with the kit. Test the LED mirror to make sure it works properly.

Although most homeowners choose a general bathroom overhead fixture that complements and blends into the existing design style, you can always install a fixture that serves as a focal point itself. A small chandelier, like the one shown here, is an elegant and unusual addition.

No matter what a ceiling light fixture looks like on the outside, they all attach in basically the same way. An electrical box in the ceiling is fitted with a mounting strap, which holds the fixture in place. The bare wire from the ceiling typically connects to the mounting strap. The two wires coming from the fixture connect to the black and the white wires from the ceiling.

If the new fixture is much heavier than the original fixture, it will require additional bracing in the ceiling to support the electrical box and the fixture. The manufacturer’s instructions should specify the size and type of box. If the ceiling is finished and there is no access from above, you can remove the old box and use an adjustable remodeling brace appropriate for your fixture (shown). The brace fits into a small hole in the ceiling (inset). Once the bracing is in place, install a new electrical box specified for the new fixture.

Inexpensive light fixtures have screw terminals mounted directly to the back side of the fixture plate. Often, as seen here, they have no grounding terminal. Some codes do not allow this type of fixture, but even if your hometown does approve them, it is a good idea to replace them with a better-quality, safer fixture that is UL approved.

Remove the twist connectors from the fixture wires or unscrew the screw terminals and remove the white neutral wire and the black lead wire (inset).

Before you install the new fixture, check the ends of the wires coming from the ceiling electrical box. They should be clean and free of nicks or scorch marks. If they’re dirty or worn, clip off the stripped portion with your combination tool. Then strip away about 3/4” of insulation from the end of each wire.

Attach a mounting strap to the ceiling fixture box if there is not one already present. Your new light may come equipped with a strap; otherwise you can find one for purchase at any hardware store.

Lift the new fixture up to the ceiling (you may want a helper for this) and attach the bare copper ground wire from the power-supply cable to the grounding screw or clip on the mounting strap. Also attach the ground wire from the fixture to the screw or clip.

With the fixture supported by a ladder or a helper, join the white wire lead and the white fixture wire with a wire connector (often supplied with the fixture).

Connect the black power-supply wire to the black fixture wire with a wire connector.

Position the new fixture mounting plate over the box so the mounting-screw holes align. Drive the screws until the fixture is secure against the ceiling. Install light bulbs and attach the shade or diffuser.

A combination light/vent fan is a great product in powder rooms and smaller baths that to do not generate excessive amounts of air moisture. In larger baths with tubs and showers, install a dedicated vent fan with a CFM rating that’s at least 5 CFM higher than the total square footage of the bathroom (inset photo).

Test the wire connections with a current tester to make sure they are not live, and then disconnect the wires and remove the light fixture. Cap the wire ends.

Plan your exhaust-pipe route. In most cases, this means determining the shortest distance between the fan and the outdoors. If the room is located at the top living level, venting through the roof is usually smartest. On lower levels and in basements, you’ll need to go through an exterior wall. If you need to route through a wall in a room with a finished ceiling, choose a route that runs through a single ceiling joist bay.

Remove ceiling covering in the fan-unit installation area and between the joists at the end of the run, next to the wall. You’ll need at least 18” of access. If you are running rigid vent pipe or the joist bay is insulated, you’ll need to remove ceiling material between the joists for the entire run. Make cuts on the centerlines of the joists.

Insert flexible vent tubing into one of the ceiling openings and expand it so the free end reaches to the ceiling opening at the wall. A fish tape for running cable through walls can be a useful aid for extending the tubing.

Draw a 4”-diameter circle on the wall framing at the end of the joist bay, marking the exit point for the duct. Choose a long, 1/4”-diameter drill bit and drill a hole at the center of the circle. Drill all the way through the wall so the bit exits on the exterior side. This will mark your hole location outside.

On the exterior, draw a 4”-diameter circle centered on the exit point of the drill bit. Cut out the opening for the vent cover with a reciprocating saw or a 4” hole saw.

Insert the vent-cover assembly into the opening, following the manufacturer’s directions for fastening and sealing it to the house.

Attach the end of the vent tubing to the outlet on the vent-cover unit and secure it with a large pipe clamp.

Nail the housing for the light/fan unit to the ceiling joist so the bottom edges of the housing are flush with the ceiling surface.

Make the wiring connections in the housing box according to the manufacturer’s instructions. In just about every case you should be able to use the existing wires from the original light switch. Once you have connected the wires, restore the power and test the fan.

Patch and paint the wall and ceiling in the project area. Mount the light (the model we installed plugs into a receptacle in the fan box), grille, globe, and any other fixture parts.

In this chapter:

• Installing Cementboard on Walls

• Wall Tile

Attach 1/2”-thick cementboard to the framing members horizontally with the rough side facing out. Use 11/4” cementboard screws. Fasten screws every 6” on center for ceiling applications and every 8” on center for wall applications. Keep fasteners 2” away from each corner and no less than 3/8” from the panel edges.

Asphalt roofing felt (15# building paper) can also be used as a moisture barrier behind cementboard panels in damp areas.

Fill the joints using a modified thinset mortar, and then embed fiberglass mesh tape into the mortar. Skim off excess mortar from the joint using a joint knife.

Complete the cementboard installation by applying thinset mortar over the tape and feathering out the edges. If you will be applying a waterproofing membrane over the cementboard surfaces, allow 24 hours for the thinset in the seams to dry.

Tile is a practical, easy-to-maintain choice for bathroom walls. The variety of colors, shapes, patterns, and styles is nearly endless. Ceramic tile (above) remains a low-cost, versatile, and attractive option, but glass tile (below) adds shimmer to a room. Glass tiles can also offer a stunning contemporary edge with brilliant colors and patterns unlike any other material.

Tiling an entire bathroom requires careful planning. The bathroom shown here was designed so that the tiles directly above the bathtub (the most visible surface) are nearly full height. To accomplish this, cut tiles were used in the second row up from the floor. The short second row also allows the row of accent tiles to run uninterrupted below the medicine cabinet. Cut tiles in both corners should be of similar width to maintain a symmetrical look in the room.

Mix a small batch of thinset mortar containing a latex additive. (Some mortar has additive mixed in by the manufacturer and some must have additive mixed in separately.) Cover the back of the first tile with adhesive using a 1/4” notched trowel.

Beginning near the center of the wall, apply the tile to the wall with a slight twisting motion, aligning it exactly with the horizontal and vertical reference lines. When placing cut tiles, position the cut edges where they will be least visible.

Continue installing tiles, working from the center to the sides in a pyramid pattern. Keep the tiles aligned with the reference lines. If the tiles are not self-spacing, use plastic spacers inserted between tiles to maintain even grout lines. The base row should be the last row of full tiles installed. Cut tile as necessary.

As small sections of tile are completed, set the tile by laying a scrap of 2 × 4 wrapped with carpet onto the tile and rapping it lightly with a mallet. This embeds the tile solidly in the adhesive and creates a flat, even surface.

To mark bottom and edge row tiles for straight cuts, begin by taping 1/8” spacers against the surfaces below and to the side of the tile. Position a tile directly over the last full tile installed, then place a third tile so the edge butts against the spacers. Trace the edge of the top tile onto the middle tile to mark it for cutting.

Install any trim tiles, such as the bullnose edge tiles shown above, at border areas. Wipe away excess mortar along the top edges of the edge tiles. Use bullnose and corner bullnose tiles (with two adjacent bullnose edges) at outside corners to cover the rough edges of the adjoining tiles.

Let mortar dry completely (12 to 24 hours), then mix a batch of grout containing latex additive. Apply the grout with a rubber grout float, using a sweeping motion to force it deep into the joints. Do not grout joints adjoining bathtubs, floors, or room corners. These will serve as expansion joints and will be caulked later.

Wipe a damp grout sponge diagonally over the tile, rinsing the sponge in cool water between wipes. Wipe each area only once; repeated wiping can pull grout from the joints. Allow the grout to dry for about 4 hours, then use a soft cloth to buff the tile surface and remove any remaining grout film.

When the grout has cured completely, use a small foam brush to apply grout sealer to the joints, following the manufacturer’s directions. Avoid brushing sealer on the tile surfaces, and wipe up excess sealer immediately.

Seal expansion joints at the floor and corners with silicone caulk. After the caulk dries, buff the tile with a soft, dry cloth.

A perfectly functional alcove bathtub surround (above) can be utterly transformed with tile (see photo).

Cut out old surround panels or tiles. A keyhole or drywall saw can be used to safely cut through the drywall at the junction where it meets the surround. Use the edge of the tile or panel as a guide, taking care to feel for and avoid plumbing or other unseen obstacles hidden within the wall cavity.

Remove the old fittings. To begin, remove the tub spout, faucet handles, and showerhead. Then, slice and remove the caulk from the corner joints. Existing ceramic fittings, such as soap dishes, should also be removed to prevent them from falling later and damaging the tub. Use a utility knife to remove old caulk, grout, and adhesive from around the lip of the tub. Finally, lay protective cardboard over the exposed surfaces of the tub and drape tarps over cabinets and toilets.

Install a moisture barrier. Fasten 4-mil clear polyethylene sheeting to the studs using staples. This step may be omitted if a waterproofing membrane will be applied over the surface of the cementboard later.

Install 1/2”-thick cementboard horizontally on the back wall first, and then on the side walls. Fasten the panels to the studs using 11/4” cementboard screws. To make straight cuts, score the panel using a carbide scoring tool, then snap the panel along the scored line. To make hole cuts for plumbing protrusions, use a drill fitted with a carbide hole-saw bit.

Fill the gaps between cementboard panels with thinset mortar, overlapping at least 2 to 3” on each side of the joint. Center and embed 2”-wide alkaline-resistant fiberglass tape over the joint and lightly skim thinset over the joint. If your local codes require it, apply a roll-on waterproofing membrane to the cementboard (see here).

Dry-lay tile for your surround on a flat surface, inserting 1/8” spacers between the tiles to set the gap. Lay out enough for roughly half the surround height and then measure the length of the dry-laid row to find the actual height of the tiles on the wall.

Draw horizontal reference lines on the wall using a 4’ level to make sure the lines are level. Extend these reference lines to each side wall. Measure down from the horizontal lines to the tub at several points on all walls to make sure the tub deck and the lines are parallel. If they aren’t, remeasure from the point where the tub deck is highest and transfer level lines all around from that point.

Draw a vertical reference line down the center of the back wall. To temporarily support the weight of the tile that will be installed above, align and fasten 1 × 2 furring strips just below the horizontal reference lines located in the midsection of the tub surround.

Set the first tiles. Mix a small batch of thinset mortar. Apply the thinset using a 1/4” square-notched trowel held at a 45º angle. Spread the adhesive within the guidelines on the wall, aligning the ridges of the setting bed in a horizontal direction. Install tile on the back wall first, keeping tile aligned to the centered guide line.

Install two or three rows of tiles—here, a row of decorative accent tiles is installed as well.

To mark tiles for straight cuts, place a full tile directly on top of the field tile that is installed adjacent to the void. Position another full tile over the void, abutting the overhanging edge of the tile against a 1/8” spacer. Trace the edge of this tile to mark the underlying tile for cutting.

Complete the upper sections. After the top portion of the back wall is tiled, fill in the upper portions of each side wall. Leave out tiles as needed to accommodate tiled-in accessories such as a soap dish or towel rod.

Mark and cut tiles to fit around the valve stems and water pipes as required to install your tub spout, diverter, and showerhead (often, showerheads are installed above the tiles). Finish tiling the lower portions of the tile installation, then allow to dry for 24 hours.

Coat the tile surfaces with a sealer or other grout-release agent if they are not glazed by the manufacturer. This treatment will prevent grout from getting into places where it should not go.

Grout the tiles (see here). To apply grout, hold the grout float at an angle and force the mortar into the joints, skimming excess grout from the tile surface with each pass. Wipe tile clean using a damp grout sponge. After grouting, buff tile surfaces with a soft cloth to remove haze. Install fittings and hardware, and caulk around the tub deck.

A full enclosure with a door offers the maximum in privacy, but it may be a more extreme solution than you require. A simple partition wall next to the toilet creates a sense of privacy without any claustrophobia.

Run wiring and ducting for lighting and ventilation as necessary. Install a box for an overhead fixture and run wire for the switch. We installed a combination light/vent fan (see here) connected to an interior wall switch placed just on the latch side of the enclosure wall. The fixture can be run off the light-switch circuit for the entire bathroom if that circuit has the capacity.

Check existing connection walls for plumb and square. Cut the sole and top plates accordingly, compensating as needed for any variances. Place top and sole plates side by side and mark stud locations, 16” on center.

Secure sole plates to the floor. Plates installed over resilient flooring, as shown here, can be nailed through to the subfloor. When installing over a tile floor, use a masonry bit to drill pilot holes and then screw through to the subfloor. (Over mosaic floors, it’s best to remove the tiles from under the sole plate and secure the plate directly to the subfloor.)

Use a stud finder to locate ceiling joists, then nail the top plates into place. Frame out the walls by toenailing studs between top and sole plates as marked. Frame L-corner for walls, as shown (inset).

Frame the doorway with header, cripple studs, and jack studs (you should purchase your prehung door first, so that you can double-check the opening measurements against the actual door unit).

Hang drywall on the framed walls, inside and out. The enclosure here was clad with standard drywall rather than greenboard, because the walls won’t be subjected to any direct moisture contact. If the enclosure abuts a shower or bath, use greenboard or cementboard.

Position the prehung door in place. Check that it is oriented correctly, to open out from the enclosure and against a wall, rather than blocking the central space or opening against the vanity.

Shim all around the jamb (specifically, behind hinges and lockset location) until the door unit is plumb and square in the opening and the door opens smoothly. Nail through the door jambs into the framing at the shim points.

Saw the shims off flush. Measure, cut, and nail the trim for the door in place. Putty and sand over the nail heads on jambs and casework.

Finish the drywall surfaces with tape and joint compound. Work as neatly as you can to minimize sanding. Seal the new drywall with drywall primer before you paint.

Paint the enclosure walls and add any additional elements, including paper holders, grab bars, and shelves or cabinets. The wall area behind the toilet tank is a good spot for installing shallow shelving, but keep it at least 3’ above the tank lid.

Attach base 1/4-round molding on the bottom of the walls, inside and out (or cove molding if you prefer). Apply a coat of silicone caulk to the bottom of the molding before nailing it in place.

A radiant floor-warming system employs electric heating mats that are covered with floor tile to create a floor that’s cozy underfoot.

An electric wire fault indicator monitors each floor mat for continuity during the installation process. If there is a break in continuity (for example, if a wire is cut), an alarm sounds. If you choose not to use an installation tool to monitor the mat, test for continuity frequently using a multimeter.

Drill access holes in the sole plate for the power leads that are preattached to the mats (they should be over 10’ long). The leads should be connected to a supply wire from the thermostat in a junction box located in a wall near the floor and below the thermostat box. The access hole for each mat should be located directly beneath the knockout for that cable in the thermostat box. Drill through the sill plate vertically and horizontally so the holes meet in an L-shape.

Run conduit from the electrical boxes to the sill plate. The line for the supply cable should be 3/4” conduit. If you are installing multiple mats, the supply conduit should feed into a junction box about 6” above the sill plate and then continue into the 3/4” hole you drilled for the supply leads. The sensor wire needs only 1/2” conduit that runs straight from the thermostat box via the thermostat. The mats should be powered by a dedicated 20-amp GFCI circuit of 12/2 NM cable run from your main service panel to the electrical box (this is for 120-volt mats—check your instruction manual for specific circuit recommendations).

Clean the floor surface thoroughly to get rid of any debris that could potentially damage the wire mats. A vacuum cleaner generally does a more effective job than a broom.

Test for resistance using a multimeter set to measure ohms. This is a test you should make frequently during the installation, along with checking for continuity. If the resistance is off by more than 10% from the theoretical resistance listing (see manufacturer’s chart in installation instructions), contact technical support for the kit manufacturer. For example, the theoretical resistance for the 1 × 50’ mat seen here is 19, so the ohms reading should be between 17 and 21.

Finalize your mat layout plan. Most radiant floor-warming mat manufacturers will provide a layout plan for you at the time of purchase, or they will give you access to an online design tool so you can come up with your own plan. This is an important step to the success of your project, and the assistance is free.

Unroll the radiant mat or mats and allow them to settle. Arrange the mat or mats according to the plan you created. It’s okay to cut the plastic mesh so you can make curves or switchbacks, but do not cut the heating wire under any circumstances, even to shorten it.

Finalize the mat layout and then test the resistance again using a multimeter. Also check for continuity in several different spots. If there is a problem with any of the mats, you should identify it and correct it before proceeding with the mortar installation.

Run the thermostat sensor wire from the electrical box down the 1/2” conduit raceway and out the access hole in the sill plate. Select the best location for the thermostat sensor and mark the location onto the flooring. Also mark the locations of the wires that connect to and lead from the sensor.

Bond the mats to the floor. If the mats in your system have adhesive strips, peel off the adhesive backing and roll out the mats in the correct position, pressing them against the floor to set the adhesive. If your mats have no adhesive, bind them with strips of double-sided carpet tape. The thermostat sensor and the power supply leads should be attached with hot glue (inset) and run up into their respective holes in the sill plate if you have not done this already. Test all mats for resistance and continuity.

Cover the floor installation areas with a layer of thinset mortar that is thick enough to fully cover all the wires and mats (usually around 1/4” in thickness). Check the wires for continuity and resistance regularly and stop working immediately if there is a drop in resistance or a failure of continuity. Allow the mortar to dry overnight.

Connect the power supply leads from the mat or mats to the NM cable coming from the thermostat inside the junction box near the sill. Power must be turned off. The power leads should be cut so about 8” of wire feeds into the box. Be sure to use cable clamps to protect the wires.

Connect the sensor wire and the power-supply lead (from the junction box) to the thermostat/timer according to the manufacturer’s directions. Attach the device to the electrical box, restore power, and test the system to make sure it works. Once you are convinced that it is operating properly, install floor tiles and repair the wall surfaces.

Floor tile can be laid in many different patterns, but for your first effort, it’s wise to stick to a basic grid. Generally, you’ll combine the floor tile with a profiled base tile or cove molding, installed after the flooring is completely dry and set.

Draw reference lines and establish the tile layout. Check that the lines are square to each other using the 3-4-5 method. Dry-lay 2 half rows of tiles in place, running from the center in 2 directions out to the wall. Determine if the layout leaves less than 1/3 of a tile at either wall, and adjust your reference lines if it does.

Mix a batch of thinset mortar and spread it evenly across a square along both reference lines of the quadrant. Use the notched edge to create furrows, being careful not to press down all the way to the backer board.

Press the first tile down into the mortar at the corner of the quadrant where the reference lines intersect. Twist it slightly and press down. Use a putty knife to pull the tile up to check that the mortar consistency is correct and coating all areas on the bottom of the tile. Press the tile back into position. Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the center area of the tile to set it properly.

Continue laying tiles along one row, using spacers to maintain spacing between tiles. Use the appropriate spacers for the size tile you are laying, and stand them upright; do not lay spacers flat at tile intersections because they will be impossible to remove from the mortar and can compromise the integrity of the grout lines.

To make sure tiles are level with one another, place a straight 2 × 4 across several tiles in a row and tap the top of the board with a rubber mallet.

As you work, clean up any mortar on the top of the tiles as soon as you detect it. Use a damp sponge to wipe up the mortar completely, to ensure it doesn’t dry on the surface of the tile.

Lay the rest of the tile in the remaining area of the quadrant, repeating steps 2 through 7. Be careful to plan tile placement so that you don’t tile yourself into a corner. Avoid stepping or kneeling on the laid tiles.

In corners and against walls leave a gap of at least 1/4” between the tiles and the walls or cabinets. Make sure the gap is still narrow enough that your base shoe molding or trim will cover it.

To mark tile for cutting so it will fit between the end or edge of a row and the wall, lay the tile to be cut directly on top of the full tile it will sit next to. Stand one or two tiles up flat against the wall as spacers (this will account for an expansion and the grout space between tiles) and lay another tile on top of the tile to be marked, with the edge butted against the tiles on the wall. Mark the second tile for cutting. Check the dry fit and then apply mortar for two partial tiles at a time and set them in place, leaving an expansion gap between the tile edge and the wall or obstruction.

Measure, cut, and install tiles that require notches or curves to fit around obstacles, such as exposed pipes or toilet drains. See here for instructions on using nippers or a saw to make the cuts.

Continue laying tiles until the floor is complete. Allow 24 hours for the mortar to dry and then remove the spacers. To prepare for grouting, use painter’s tape to protect any trim that abuts the tiled surface.

Mix the grout using the drill and paddle bit. Follow the instructions for the grout you’re using.

Start in a corner and pour a small amount of grout onto the tiles. Use the float to spread the grout out from the corner, working in smooth arcs and pressing the grout into the spaces between tiles. Hold the float at about a 60° angle and work in a figure-eight motion. Work on 4-tile sections.

As you finish one small quadrant of tile, use the float and a small trowel to clean the excess grout off the surface of the tiles. Continue applying the grout at a 45° angle to the joints until you’ve finished about 25 sq. ft. of the floor.

Wipe a damp grout sponge diagonally over about 2 sq. ft. of the floor to remove grout residue. Rinse the sponge in cool water between passes. Be careful not to press so hard you pull grout out of the joints, but use as many passes as necessary to clean the surface of the tiles. Change the rinse water frequently.

Allow the grout to dry for the recommended period (4 hours is a common drying time). Use a soft cloth such as folded cheesecloth to buff the tile surface and remove any remaining grout film. If any grout film remains, use a grout-remover solution.

Ensure the integrity of the grout by misting it with water two to three times per day, for the first two or three days. This will help the grout cure evenly and completely and make it less likely to crack.

Apply grout sealer to all the grout lines. You can use an applicator bottle such as the one shown here, or you can use a formula meant to be applied with a small sponge or foam brush. Be careful to apply the sealer on the grout lines only.

Install threshold transitions in doorways and between transitions to different flooring materials. If the threshold is too long for the doorway, cut it to fit with a jigsaw or circular saw equipped with a tungsten-carbide blade (if you are using a threshold made of tile). Depending on the type of threshold strip, either screw it down or set it in a bed of thinset mortar and allow 24 hours for the mortar to dry.

Leaving a 1/8” expansion gap between tiles at corners, mark any contour cuts necessary to allow the coved edges to fit together. Use a jigsaw with a tungsten-carbide blade to make curved cuts.

Begin installing base-trim tiles at an inside corner. Use a notched trowel to apply wall adhesive to the back of the tile. Place 1/8” spacers on the floor under each tile to create an expansion joint.

Press the tile onto the wall. Continue setting tiles, using spacers to maintain 1/8” gaps between the tiles and 1/8” expansion joints between the tiles and floor.

Use a double-bullnose tile on one side of outside corners to cover the edge of the adjoining tile.

After the adhesive dries, grout the vertical joints between tiles and apply grout along the tops of the tiles to make a continuous grout line. Once the grout hardens, fill the expansion joint between the tiles and floor with caulk.

In this chapter:

• Medicine Cabinets

• Grab Bars

Medicine cabinets don’t have to be frumpy. This sleek version has a simple knob handle and sleek aesthetic.

Attach a temporary ledger board (usually 1 × 4) just below the lower level line using duplex nails. Rest the base of the cabinet on the ledger and hold it in place or brace it with 2 × 4s.

Attach the cabinet to the wall at the stud locations by drilling pilot holes and driving wood screws. Remove the ledger when finished, and patch the nail holes with drywall compound.

Use a stud finder to locate the wall-framing members and then draw an outline for the new cabinet, with the sides of the outline at the edges of the stud bay. (If you need to adjust the cabinet position or the cabinet you are installing is wider than the stud bay, see the option at left).

Shut off power at the main circuit panel in case there are any live wires in the stud cavity. Cut out the marked opening in the wall covering. A hand drywall saw will make neat work of this job.

Remove the door/mirror from the cabinet and position the cabinet carcass in the opening. The opening should be slightly taller and wider than the cabinet. Set the height by resting the cabinet on a level and raising or lowering it. Tack the cabinet to a wall stud on one side with a nail driven through one of the screw access holes in the cabinet side.

Move the level to the cabinet side and adjust the cabinet until it is vertical. Tack it to the wall stud on the side opposite the first nail.

Drive a 2” drywall screw through one of the screw access holes on each side of the cabinet. Do not overdrive. Double-check for level and plumb, then add additional screws on each side until the cabinet is secure. Reattach the door/mirror.

This handsome bathroom is an example of ultimate accessibility, with a curbless shower that allows a wheelchair- or walker-using individual to easily take a shower (fold-down seat and grab bars assure stability). A roll-under sink is great for all users, and a toilet-side fold-down grab bar makes it simple for those with limited mobility to get on and off the essential fixture.

A stylish accent ring around the faucet controls in this tub doubles as a grip bar that helps bathers safely get into and out of the tub.

Why install just a towel bar, when you can add a safety feature with a combination towel-and-grab bar accessory? This one features a handsome rubbed-bronze finish, but you’ll find these in a range of surface styles.

Combine stability with convenience by adding a simple shelf holder–grab bar combo like this one. The sleek curving style of this unit is just one of many forms and finishes available in this type of accessory.

Manufacturers continue to create accessible fixtures like this showerhead that is both a fixed and handheld unit. The head is easily removed from the stem—held in place by a magnetic connection. Once removed, a valve automatically redistributes the water to the head.

Blocking or backing is required for secure grab bars. If you know where the grab bars will be located, add 2× blocking between studs (Illustration A). You also can cover the entire wall with 3/4” plywood backing, which allows you to install grab bars virtually anywhere on the wall (illustration B).

Grab bars of different styles and configurations meet varied needs in any bathroom, and in different areas of the bathroom.

Mark the grab-bar height at one stud location, then use a level to transfer the height mark to the stud that will receive the other end of the bar. Position the grab bar on the height marks so at least 2 of the 3 mounting holes are aligned with the stud centers. Mark the mounting-hole locations onto the wall.

Drill pilot holes for the mounting screws. If you are drilling through tile, start with a small bit (about 1/8”), then redrill the hole with the larger bit. For screws that won’t hit studs, drill holes for wall anchors, following the manufacturer’s directions for sizing. Install anchors, if necessary.

Apply a continuous bead of silicone caulk to the back side of each bar end (inset). Secure the bar to the studs using #12 stainless-steel screws (the screws should penetrate the stud by at least 1”). Install a stainless-steel screw or bolt into the wall anchors. Test the bar to make sure it’s secure.

Glass shelves fit any style and size of bathroom. They are held in place with metal mounts, which can be decorative and attached to the wall.

Remove the shelves and use the level to extend the mark into a 3” vertical line. Use the level to mark a horizontal line across the centers of these lines.

Center the middle round hole of the bracket over the intersection of the vertical and horizontal lines. Mark the center of each of the oblong holes. Put the bracket aside and drill a 1/4” hole at each mark. Insert the included wall anchors in the holes. Replace the bracket, insert the screws into the wall anchors, and drive the screws. Repeat for the second bracket.

Remove the shelf from the holders. Slide a holder over a bracket, check that the shelf mount is level, and tighten the setscrew. Repeat with the other holder. Insert the shelf and fix in place. Check the shelf for level. If it’s not level, remove one holder and loosen the bracket screws. Slide the bracket up or down to make the unit level. Replace the holder and shelf.

A hard-wired towel warmer offers the luxury of heated towels without the safety concerns of a plug-in device.

Shut off electrical power at the main service panel. At the mark for the wall-bracket outlet, cut a hole in the wall covering for a retrofit electrical box. Run NM cable from the opening to a GFCI-protected circuit (here, we ran cable down to a receptacle directly beneath it) or install a separate GFCI-protected circuit (you’ll need to consult a wiring book or an electrician). Pull the cable through the hole in the retrofit box, then tighten the cable clamp. Place the box in the hole flush with the wall surface and tighten the mounting screw in the rear of the box. Cut the wires so about 5” extends into the box and strip the insulation off at 3/8” from the end of each wire.

Position the towel warmer over the outlet box and mark the locations of the screw holes for the wall brackets. Make sure the appliance is level. Remove the warmer and drill 1/4” pilot holes at the marked locations. If the marks are located over studs, drill 1/8” pilot holes. If not, push wall anchors into the holes. Thread the mounting screws through the brackets. Have a helper hold the towel rack in place and use wire connectors to connect the wires, including the ground wire, according to the instructions.

After the electrical connections are made, fasten the towel rack brackets to the wall. Turn on power and test the towel warmer. Finally, attach the electrical cover plate with integral on/off switch.

The supply-riser diagram shows the length of the hot and cold water pipes and the relation of the fixtures to one another. The inspector will use this diagram to determine the proper size for the new water-supply pipes in your system.

The site plan shows the location of the water main and sewer main with respect to your yard and home. The distances from your foundation to the water main and from the foundation to the main sewer should be indicated on the site map.

A DWV diagram shows the routing of drain and vent pipes in your system. Indicate the lengths of drain pipes and the distances between fixtures. The inspector will use this diagram to determine if you have properly sized the drain traps, drain pipes, and vent pipes.

FIXTURE SUPPLY PIPE & TRAP SIZES

To determine the minimum size of supply pipes and fixture drain traps, you must know the fixture’s unit rating, a unit of measure assigned by the plumbing code.

NOTE: Branch pipes are the water-supply lines that run from the distribution pipes toward the individual fixtures. Supply tubes carry water from the branch pipes to the fixtures.

MAXIMUM HOLE & NOTCH SIZES

The maximum hole and notch sizes that can be cut into framing members for running pipes is shown above. Where possible, use notches rather than bored holes to ease pipe installation. When boring holes, there must be at least 5/8” of wood between the edge of a stud and the hole and at least 2” between the edge of a joist and the hole. Joists can be notched only in the end 1/3 of the overall span; never in the middle 1/3 of the joist. When 2 pipes are run through a stud, the pipes should be stacked 1 over the other, never side by side.

SIZES FOR HORIZONTAL & VERTICAL DRAIN PIPES

Drain-pipe sizes are determined by the load on the pipes, as measured by the total fixture units. Horizontal drain pipes less than 3” in diameter should slope 1/4” per 1’ toward the main drain. Pipes 3” or more in diameter should slope 1/8” per 1’.

NOTE: Horizontal or vertical drain pipes for a toilet must be 3” or larger.

PIPE SUPPORT INTERVALS

Minimum intervals for supporting pipes are determined by the type of pipe and its orientation in the system. Use only brackets and supports made of the same (or compatible) materials as the pipes. Remember that the measurements shown above are minimum requirements; many plumbers install pipe supports at closer intervals.

WET VENTING

Wet vents are pipes that serve as a vent for 1 fixture and a drain for another. The sizing of a wet vent is based on the total fixture units it supports: a 3” wet vent can serve up to 12 fixture units; a 2” wet vent is rated for 4 fixture units; a 11/2” wet vent for only 1 fixture unit.

NOTE: The distance between the wet-vented fixture and the wet vent itself must be no more than the maximum critical distance.

AUXILIARY VENTING

Fixtures must have auxiliary vents if the distance to the main waste-vent stack exceeds the critical distance. A toilet, for example, should have a separate vent pipe if it is located more than 6’ from the main waste-vent stack. This secondary vent pipe should connect to the stack or an existing vent pipe at a point at least 6” above the highest fixture on the system.

VENT-PIPE SIZES & CRITICAL DISTANCES

Vent pipes are usually one pipe size smaller than the drain pipes they serve. Code requires that the distance between the drain trap and the vent pipe fall within a maximum critical distance, a measurement that is determined by the size of the fixture drain. Use this chart to determine both the minimum size for the vent pipe and the maximum critical distance.

Cables must be protected against damage by nails and screws by at least 11/4” of wood (above). When cables pass through 2 × 2 furring strips (below), protect the cables with metal protector plates.

Kitchen and bathroom receptacles must be protected by a GFCI. Also, all outdoor receptacles and general-use receptacles in an unfinished basement or crawlspace must be protected by a GFCI.

CONVERTING TEMPERATURES

Convert degrees Fahrenheit (F) to degrees Celsius (C) by following this simple formula: Subtract 32 from the Fahrenheit temperature reading. Then multiply that number by 5/9. For example, 77°F - 32 = 45. 45 × 5/9 = 25°C.

METRIC PLYWOOD PANELS

Metric plywood panels are commonly available in two sizes: 1,200 mm × 2,400 mm and 1,220 mm × 2,400 mm, which is roughly equivalent to a 4 × 8’ sheet. Standard and Select sheathing panels come in standard thicknesses, while Sanded grade panels are available in special thicknesses.

LUMBER DIMENSIONS

LIQUID MEASUREMENT EQUIVALENTS

COUNTERBORE, SHANK & PILOT HOLE DIAMETERS

NAILS

Nail lengths are identified by numbers from 4 to 60 followed by the letter “d,” which stands for “penny.” For general framing and repair work, use common or box nails. Common nails are best suited to framing work where strength is important. Box nails are smaller in diameter than common nails, which makes them easier to drive and less likely to split wood. Use box nails for light work and thin materials. Most common and box nails have a cement or vinyl coating that improves their holding power.