Bathrooms
Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Bathrooms, Third Edition - Remodeling on a budget
Source: Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Bathrooms, Third Edition - Remodeling on a budget.pdf
Source file: Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Bathrooms, Third Edition - Remodeling on a budget.pdf
The Complete Guide to
BaThRoomS Third Edition
Remodeling Projects on a Budget • Vanities & Cabinets
Plumbing & Fixtures • Showers, Sinks & Tubs
MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOtA
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Contents
11 11
The Complete Guide to
Bathrooms
11
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
PLANNING & DESIGNING YOUR BATHROOM . . . 8
Gallery of Bathrooms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Bathroom Elements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Bathtubs & Jetted Tubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Showers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Sinks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 22 11
Toilets, Bidets & Urinals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Cabinets & Vanity Cabinets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Lighting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Heating & Ventilation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Walls & Ceilings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Flooring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Getting Started . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
30 32
Determining Your Needs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Designing for Accessibility . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Design Standards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Drawing Plans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Removal & Demolition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Removing Toilets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Removing Sinks & Cabinets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Removing Showers & Tubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 42
BATHROOM REMODELING PROJECTS . . . . . . . 67
Showers, Tubs & Whirlpools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
Installing Showers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
Shower Enclosure Kits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
Neo-Angle Showers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Custom Shower Bases . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Glass Block Showers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
44 92
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Contents (Cont.)
98
120 111
Alcove Bathtubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
3-Piece Tub Surrounds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Solid-Surface Surrounds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
Soaking Tubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
Sliding Tub Doors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
Air-Jet Tubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
Tub & Shower Fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
Adding a Shower to a Bathtub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 134 144
Dual Showerheads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Slide-Bar Showerheads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
Sinks & Vanities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
Pedestal & Console Sinks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
Wall-Hung Vanities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
Vessel Sinks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
Traditional Vanity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
Custom Double Vanity Cabinet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 158
Double-Bowl Vanity Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
Lavatory Faucets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
Wall-Mount Faucets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Lavatory Drains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
Toilets, Bidets & Urinals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
Toilets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
Bidets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
182 200
Urinals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
Lighting & Ventilation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
Vanity Lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
Ceiling Lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
Vent Fans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
Skylights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
Tubular Skylights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212
Glass Block Windows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 214001-019_C57259.indd 4 6/11/10 6:33:30 PM 001-019_C57259.indd 4 6/11/10 6:42:08 PM Job:05-19423 Title: CPI-HI 0605 CG to Bathrooms (Ray) Text 06-C57259(216) #175 Dtp:216 Page:4
234
222
Wall & Floor Projects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
Hanging Cementboard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
Wall Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
Embellished Wall Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
Tiled Tub Apron . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
Toilet Enclosure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241
Radiant Heat Floor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246
Ceramic Tile Floor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 231 241
Sheet Vinyl Floor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
Accessories & Upgrades . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265
Medicine Cabinets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
Grab Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268
Tilting Wall Mirrors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270
Mirror Defoggers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272
Glass Shelving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
270 274
Towel Warmers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
Appendix A: Plumbing Codes & Permits . . . . 278
Appendix B: Wiring Codes & Permits . . . . . . 281
Measurements & Conversions . . . . . . . . . . . 282
Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
Photo Credits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
276
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Introduction
A great bathroom means different things to different people. Some may need a bathroom that’s designed to
accommodate overlapping schedules by including double sinks, a separate shower enclosure, or even a
partitioned privacy room for the toilet. Another homeowner might have always dreamed about enjoying a regular,
rejuvenating soak, in which case her ideal bathroom might focus on a jetted tub or a deep soaking tub.
Creating a great bathroom (or bathrooms) in your home is important. Few rooms in the home affect our
daily routine, relaxation, and health as much as the bathroom. It is the room where the essential functions of
living intersect with our overwhelming need for comfort. The space must meet high standards of sanitation and
moisture-resistance, provide adequate privacy, and maintain (or at least work with) the design style throughout
the rest of the house. To ensure that your bathroom remodeling project results in a room that does all this and
more, you need some guidance and some clear instructions.
The Complete Guide to Bathrooms is a comprehensive guide to remodeling bathrooms to precisely suit your
individual needs and tastes. Including clear step-by-step instructions, full-color photos and illustrations, and
the latest information about bathroom technology and style, this revised and updated edition provides all the
information you need to create a bathroom that is perfect for you, your family, and your guests.
The book will guide you through the process of bringing your ideal bathroom to life, whether you’re
remodeling an existing space, building new, or adding on. We start with the Planning & Designing section, where
you’ll learn how to work out all the details that will go into your new bathroom, from putting your design on
paper, to choosing and pricing the different materials that will define the space, to handling all the administrative
details, such as working with contractors and building inspectors. We’ve also included a gallery of bathrooms,
which provides a treasure trove of ideas for anyone looking to update or redesign a bathroom.
Of course, you can’t talk about remodeling a bathroom without discussing how to strip out what’s already
there. That’s why we’ve included the Removal & Demolition section, with helpful tips and techniques to make
easy work of the dirtiest part of this process.
The Bathroom Projects section includes all the how-to information you’ll need to implement your project
designs in an actual bathroom space. You’ll find step-by-step instructions on adding tubs and showers, vanities
and faucets, and more. We’ve also included important information about installing lighting and ventilation, as well
as do-it-yourself instructions for adding luxury touches like ceramic or stone tile.
Even if you choose to hire professionals to do the actual work, The Complete Guide to Bathrooms remains an
incredibly useful tool. This book will give you an increased understanding of how to remodel a bathroom, work
with contractors, and make the best use of your money.
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Planning &
designing your
bathroom
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Gallery of
Bathrooms
T he bathroom fulfills many functions. First and
foremost, it addresses the specific wishes of
the homeowner—whether it’s a standalone shower
enclosure that’s easier to walk into than a tub, or small
luxuries like a towel warmer or an in-floor warming
system. But the bathroom must be comfortable to use,
with grab bars where necessary, vanities and cabinets
that provide sensibly placed storage space, and
surfaces that feel good to the touch.
The specific features of a well-designed bathroom
also depend on what type of bathroom it is. A half
bath for guests, or a powder room, may require only
a quiet, highly efficient toilet and a focal-point vessel
sink. The design of a family bath is more involved,
with upgraded ventilation and multi-user features
such as double sinks and a segregated toilet area. A
master bathroom suite may include luxury touches
such as sunken tub or a shower with multiple heads
and a sound system.
Regardless of the type of bathroom you’re looking
to create, you’ll find a wealth of design options in the
following gallery pages. Even if the specific features
shown in these pages aren’t exactly what you want for
your own project, they will inspire and help you to
discover your perfect bathroom.
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The polished stone tub deck and
flooring lends a feeling of luxury to
this bathroom. The hard surfaces have
the added benefit of water and mold
resistance. The wood floor adds warmth,
but is kept away from the tub and toilet
areas. The large window bathes the room
with natural light.
Shelving can provide useful and attractive storage space in a bathroom. Here, the rolled towels stored in open shelves contrast
with the angular, modern feel of this bathroom, adding a bit of softness. The natural color scheme provides a calm environment.
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The poured concrete bathtub, with A stylish glass shower enclosure maintains an open, airy feel in this small
its low profile, simple lines, and soothing bathroom. Multiple showerheads and in-wall shelves make for a luxurious shower
colors, sets the mood for a relaxing soak experience.
with a good novel. The ledge serves
as a handy bookshelf in this dream
bathroom and is just right for those who
can’t put a book down.
An attic master suite blurs the lines between bathroom and bedroom. Although an unorthodox approach, the room design
creates the perception of abundant and opulent space.
Gallery of Bathrooms ■ 13
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A wall-mounted countertop of glass and wood is right at home in this contemporary bathroom. The green glass adds brilliance
to the otherwise neutral room, while the wood contributes warmth and texture.
The widespread bathroom faucet is mounted to the This wall-hung sink with its traditional two-handled faucet
countertop and is paired with a stainless steel under-mount reflects the deco style of the floor tiles. The glass-and-steel
sink, adding to the high-tech look of the room. A striking base is mostly decorative.
backdrop of metal wall tiles reflects light and creates a
bright atmosphere.
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This simple, square, wall-mounted sink blends A towel warmer drawer built into a linen cabinet is a
well with the bright colors of the walls and distinctively discreet yet extravagant addition to the bathroom.
mid-century-modern décor. The rich, dark wood floor warms
up the room, while the flokati rug adds contrast and texture.
Storage space is at a premium in bathrooms. Employing some kitchen-style cabinet organizing tricks helps boost efficiency.
Gallery of Bathrooms ■ 15
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Multiple showerheads are given a new twist with water tile body sprays. The spray face can be adjusted and the nozzles offer
hydrotherapeutic benefits.
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A lovely neutral color scheme gives this room a clean and This modest guest bathroom is a perfect example of
calming appearance. A dark floor and accents ensure that the bringing a small space to life with bold colors and whimsical
room isn’t boring. touches, such as the photos of water lilies used here.
Shutters, soft earth tones, and mood lighting give this Sleek his-and-her wall-mounted sinks are
bathroom a sense of dreamy seclusion, and create a complemented by a low shelf underneath that provides
comfortable private retreat. a wealth of useful storage.
Gallery of Bathrooms ■ 17
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An oversized vanity mirror can make a small space seem A vibrant, bright orange brings this bathroom to life,
much larger and lighter, as it does in this powder room. serving as a wonderful counterpoint to the chunky, dark
wall-mounted lavatory.
The large corner whirlpool tub adds big luxury to this sedate bathroom. Easily accommodating two bathers, the tub offers
a spa indulgence at home.
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Artfully arranged towel hooks and a whimsical toilet paper dispenser add touches of fun to an otherwise lovely but
low-key bathroom.
Marble walls and floors, a high-tech toilet, and an oversized whirlpool tub with a multitude of adjustable jets all spell opulence
in this European-style bathroom.
Gallery of Bathrooms ■ 19
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Bathroom
Elements
B athroom fixtures and materials have changed
dramatically in recent years. Tubs can rival
healthclub spas, toilets and showerheads are more
water efficient, and sinks run the gamut from stainless
steel to wood basins.
Before you jump into a bathroom remodeling
project, decide what’s most important to you. Budget
determines how luxurious you can get, but maybe it’s
worthwhile to splurge on that one item that would
make you feel most pampered.
This chapter covers the most common bathroom
fixtures and materials, but several other good resources
are also available, such as magazines and websites.
Home centers and kitchen and bath showrooms have
a variety of bathroom setups you can browse through to
see how the products look and feel. It’s always a good
idea to see a product in person before you buy.
In this chapter:
• Bathtubs & Jetted Tubs
• Showers
• Sinks
• Toilets, Bidets & Urinals
• Cabinets & Vanity Cabinets
• Lighting
• Heating & Ventilation
• Walls & Ceilings
• Flooring
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Bathtubs & Jetted Tubs
A lthough you can find bathtubs in a wide variety
of sizes and shapes, your existing bathroom
floorplan usually dictates exactly what size you should
Freestanding tubs are available in modern styles
and in the traditional claw-foot design. They’re
usually made of enameled cast iron, which retains
buy. But if you don’t mind moving some plumbing, or heat well and is virtually indestructible. Although
you are building an all-new bathroom, your options they are heavy and difficult to move, they are simple
expand dramatically. to install. The plumbing for making the supply and
Tubs are categorized first by the method used to drain hookups is normally exposed and thus should
install them. The three basic installation styles are have an attractive finish.
attached apron, deck-mounted, and freestanding.
Rectangular tubs are the most common shape
Attached-apron tubs are the most common. They and are often combined with showers. They come
are often enclosed on three sides by alcove walls. in a wide range of widths, lengths, depths, and
One-piece tub-and-shower combination fixtures are colors in addition to the traditional 30" × 60" × 14"
also available to fit standard-size alcoves. Custom white version.
sizes can be made for odd-size alcoves.
Square and triangular tubs are very uncommon.
Deck-mounted tubs and whirlpools, also called drop-in They fit into corners to help visually open up
tubs, generally rest directly on the subfloor or in a thinset small bathrooms, and they often are combined with
mortar base. They are surrounded by custom-built decks a shower.
or platforms. Typically, these tubs have a larger capacity
than attached-apron tubs. The cost of making the deck Oval, round, and hourglass shapes make a
can cause tubs to be more expensive than other types, unique design statement but offer little by way of
but the design possibilities are nearly limitless. practical advantage.
This jetted tub with widespread faucet mounted on the deck lets bathers lean back and relax in a standard-size tub alcove.
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Freestanding tubs are available in the traditional claw-foot A deck-mounted tub is often the focal point of the bathroom,
design as well as up-to-date models. providing both visual appeal and a luxurious bathing experience.
Compact tubs are available for small bathrooms. Often A claw-foot tub is an iconic bathroom fixture. The original
smaller tubs are deeper than standard tubs, which can allow models made of cast iron with an enameled porcelain finish
for more comfortable bathing. can be found through architectural salvage companies,
although the supply is dwindling and the prices are climbing.
Reproductions of this style are made with lighter-weight
composites and polymers.
(continued)
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■ Tub Materials
Tubs are manufactured from many different materials, Cast iron is the most durable material available
each with its own advantages and disadvantages. for tubs. Iron is cast into a tub shape, then coated
with a baked-on enamel that is relatively thick (1⁄16"),
Fiberglass is an inexpensive, lightweight material resulting in a richly colored finish. The enamel is
that can be finished in a variety of colors. It is easily strong, durable, and resistant to chips, scratches,
molded, so fiberglass tubs can have seats, grab bars, and stains.
soap dishes, and shampoo shelves molded into the The cast iron itself is almost impervious to dents
sides. Though fiberglass has many benefits, its surface and cracks. Cast iron is just about indestructible, but
can scratch easily and its color will fade. it’s also heavy—a standard tub weighs between 300
and 400 pounds. In some cases, the floor framing
Acrylic, like fiberglass, can be molded into just must be reinforced to support the additional weight.
about any size and shape required. Unlike fiberglass, Cast iron is used most commonly for claw-foot and
however, the color runs through the entire substance other stand-alone bathtubs. A rapidly increasing
rather than just on the surface coat, making it less number of tubs, both freestanding and alcove type,
likely to show scratches or to fade. are now being made from composite materials that are
solid like cast iron but much lighter in weight.
Enameled steel tubs are pressed from sheets of steel The enamel finish of old, scratched, or marred
and coated with a baked-on enamel similar to that of cast-iron tubs can be reglazed, but the finish doesn’t
cast-iron tubs. The enamel layer is usually thin, though, last as long as the original and is more susceptible
and is susceptible to chipping. In addition, enameled to chips and scratches. Reglazing a cast-iron tub
steel doesn’t retain heat and tends to be noisy. When is not a do-it-yourself project, so hire a contractor
buying an enameled steel tub, check for a spray-on who is familiar with the process, look for a two-year
undercoating that helps muffle sound and retain heat. guarantee, and ask to see examples of previous work.
■ Specialty Tubs
Soaking tubs are deeper with higher sides than other may sit, rather than recline, although the shallowest
styles. Traditional Japanese versions feature sides as modern models are soaking tubs only to the extent
high as 4 feet, but contemporary American soaking that they will allow an adult to be covered completely
tubs usually have walls from 20 to 36 inches high. with water when reclined. The experience is luxurious
Traditional soaking tubs are tall enough that bathers and meditative.
Large deck-mounted tubs offer options
when it comes to locating the spout and
valve handles. In many cases this means
you can position the spout near the tub
center so you can lean back against
either end of the tub without hitting any
faucet parts.
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Jetted tubs circulate water that’s mixed with
air through jets mounted in the body of the tub.
The pumps move as much as 50 gallons of water
per minute to create a massaging effect that relieves
stress and muscle pain. Better quality jets can be
adjusted to alter both the stream’s direction and the
proportion of air and water (more air means a more
vigorous massage).
Jetted tubs are almost always made of acrylic, and
sizes and shapes vary tremendously. Prices also vary—
whirlpools can range from $700 to $10,000 and up before
installation. Price is determined by the number of jets
(from four to ten or more), size of the water pump, and
options such as an in-line heater.
You can find a variety of accessories for jetted
tubs. A multispeed motor allows you to choose various
settings from a gentle, relaxing soak to a vigorous
massage. An in-line heater maintains the water
temperature. Grab bars, mood lights, pillows, timers,
mirrors, and touch-pad controls are available for
convenience and comfort.
Before you invest in a jetted tub, review the
maintenance requirements. Some demand extensive A tub platform can be tucked into a corner or even
upkeep of pumps, timers, and controls, and many an alcove. If you add tile or another moisture-resistant
roomy models require an extra large water heater. wallcovering on the corner walls, you may consider adding a
A jetted tub can be installed by a skilled hand-held shower near the corner. Hand-held showers are not
a good idea for island tubs.
homeowner familiar with the basic techniques of
carpentry, plumbing, and tile setting. Some are small
enough to fit in the alcove used for standard bathtubs,
though most models require the construction of a
surrounding deck or platform. See pages 120 to 127 for
installing an air-jet tub.
An oversized tub can be installed in a
bathroom with limited wallspace if you
have sufficient floor area to accommodate
an extra-wide tub.
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Showers
S howers can stand alone or be combined with
tubs, and they come in a number of styles
and materials.
Shower surround panels are used to construct
simple, inexpensive shower stalls. They are built
above a preformed shower base made of PVC
A tub/shower combination is more common than plastic, fiberglass, acrylic, solid‑surface material,
a standalone shower stall. It uses space efficiently, quartz, or natural stone. Three individual panels are
is cheap to install, and can easily be added to an bonded to the walls of the framed alcove, and the
alcove tub. One‑piece molded fiberglass and acrylic seams are sealed.
tub‑and‑shower units are available, but they are often
too large to fit through doors and are better suited for Freestanding showers are complete units that are
new construction. not attached to walls. They range from inexpensive
Shower stalls are ideal for small bathrooms or sheet metal or fiberglass units to elaborate glass block
as a supplement in master or luxury bathrooms. showers. The vast majority of showers, however, fit
They can be purchased prefabricated or they can into corners or against one wall.
be custom‑built.
Custom shower stalls can be designed to fit into
One‑piece alcove showers are a common option for odd spaces (pages 86 to 91). The walls can be finished
do‑it‑yourself installation. The seamless stall is molded with ceramic tile, glass block, or a solid‑surface
from a single piece of fiberglass or acrylic, making it material. Specialized options, such as seats, steam
easy to clean and maintain. A wide range of shower bath units, and soap dishes, can be incorporated into
stall sizes and styles are available. Some feature seats, the design.
steam bath, or other added‑value functions.
Barrier‑free showers are designed for physically
Neo‑angle showers are designed to fit into a corner. challenged users. The shower entrance has a low
They are usually made of acrylic or fiberglass, and base curb or no curb at all, providing easy access to
have doors that open at an angle. the shower. One‑piece molded units are available, or
One-piece shower stalls are quick and easy to install, but Curved and neo-angle showers tuck efficiently into a
the units are large and cumbersome—make sure you can get corner and occupy only minimal floorspace. They are usually
it through your house and into your bathroom before deciding sold in a flat pack.
to buy one.
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barrier-free showers can be custom-built. Most have
built-in shower seats and grab bars. See pages 44 to 49
for more information on barrier-free showers.
Shower doors and curtains are usually purchased
separately from the shower itself. Options range
from simple plastic curtains costing a few dollars to
custom-made tempered glass doors.
Multiple showerheads, shower towers, and steam
showers can create a more luxurious shower. Steam
showers require extra plumbing, wiring, and a shower
stall with doors that seal tightly.
Shower Lights ▸
An overhead light ensures safety in the shower.
Make sure that any light installed in a shower
area is moisture-resistant. Some lights include a
heating element. A cast iron shower receptor is the ultimate in leak-free
durability when building a custom shower stall.
A custom tile shower surround is a perfect choice for today’s Glass block shower walls (many are actually clear acrylic)
modern, multiport shower systems. allow natural light into the showering area. They also have a
distinctive visual appeal all their own.
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Sinks
T he variety of sinks available today practically
guarantees that you can find a lavatory sink to
match your space, budget, and taste. The most
room where floorspace is particularly scarce. Console
sinks have legs supporting the front two corners and
often feature an apron to mask plumbing connections.
significant difference between the major sink types is The advantage of a console sink over a pedestal model
the manner in which they are installed: wall mounted, is that small baskets or a modest, simple shelving unit
pedestal or console, and countertop. can be placed underneath for additional storage.
Wall-mounted sinks hang directly from the
wall, taking up little space and offering easy access Self-rimming sinks drop into a cutout in the
to plumbing hookups. Basic wall-mounted sinks are countertop, with its rim overlapping the cutout’s edges.
good options for utility bathrooms or half baths, where
exposed plumbing and lack of storage space are not Integral sinks, usually made of solid-surface material
serious drawbacks. Designer wall-mounted styles or cultured marble, are molded into countertops (page
feature attached bodies or aprons that hide plumbing 140) and are easy to install and maintain.
and can even provide an extremely attractive focal
point for a small bathroom. Undermounted sinks are attached with clips
Pedestal sinks and console sinks are wall- beneath a cutout in a solid-surface, stone, or
mounted styles that rest on a pedestal or legs that may concrete countertop.
or may not provide actual support to the sink bowl. A
decorative pedestal may conceal plumbing and can be Vessel sinks sit on top of a countertop, with only a
a smart choice for a small guest bathroom or powder small cutout for the drain.
A pedestal sink has visual appeal and an efficient footprint, Wall-mounted sinks are sometimes installed in powder
but lacks any storage function. rooms and half-baths, where floor space is at a premium. A
wall-mounted faucet creates dramatic design options.
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Sinks can be made of a number of materials.
Cultured marble is an inexpensive material
often used to create integral sink-and-countertop
combinations to fit standard vanity sizes. Porcelain
(vitreous china) may be used for self-rimming sinks.
It has a durable glossy surface that is nonporous and
easy to clean. Porcelain sinks are readily available in
white and almond, and you can special order other
colors. For a truly unique addition to your bathroom
decor, consider a hand-painted porcelain sink in a
floral or other one-of-a-kind design.
Solid-surface material is long lasting and easy
to clean; scratches can be buffed or sanded out. It is Self-rimming sinks (also called drop-ins) fit into a cutout
one of the more expensive choices for bathroom sinks, in a countertop and usually are secured with mounting clips
but its durability and ease of care help justify the from below.
price. Solid-surface sinks are available in self-rimming,
undermounted, and integral models, with a variety of
colors and patterns to choose from.
Stainless steel brings a high-tech look and
durability to bathroom sinks. It is available in either
a satin or mirror finish. Price varies according to
thickness, or gauge—the lower the gauge number,
the thicker the steel. Look for 18-gauge material
with a noise-reducing undercoating. Because they
are lightweight, stainless steel sinks are often used
for undermounting.
Enameled cast iron is an extremely durable
material. Made of thick, heavy iron with an enamel Undermount sinks have a very contemporary appearance
coating, these sinks are available in only a few shapes and offer some clean-up advantages, but they can only be
and sizes, and they are rather expensive. A low-cost installed in countertops that have a contiguous waterproof
alternative is enameled steel, but it is lightweight and composition (such as solid surface or poured concrete).
not very durable—the enamel tends to chip easily.
Tempered glass is used to create stylish vessel sinks
for bathrooms. Undermounted styles can be lit from
underneath to create a mood-setting glow.
Other materials such as concrete, copper,
carved stone, and wood can be used to create more
stylized bathrooms. Before you select a sink made
of an unusual material, consider the shipping time,
installation procedures, maintenance, and cost.
Vessel sinks have a high impact visually, but because they
are more prone to leaking and have greater exposure they
aren’t the best choice for a family bath.
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Toilets, Bidets & Urinals
T oilets, bidets, and urinals don’t usually boast fine
design or a fancy finish, but these indispensable
fixtures can have a significant impact on a
restrictions becoming more of an issue every year,
these water-saving fixtures are showing up with some
frequency on green project lists (flushing a urinal uses
bathroom’s appearance if you let them. Or, they a small fraction of the amount of water consumed by
can recede into the background and let other less the flush of a toilet).
utilitarian features shine. So for most of us, the discussion of toilets, bidets,
The bidet is a popular bathroom furnishing in and urinals becomes mostly a look at toilets. Toilet
much of Europe, but it just has never developed a flush technology has changed dramatically over the last
significant following in the U.S., Mexico, or Canada. couple of decades. Today, you can choose from a host
This may change yet, as those who have included a of high-efficiency toilets with small, water-saving traps
bidet in their bathroom design typically love them and and optional flushing assistance mechanisms. You’ll
would not consider ever going back to a single-purpose also find a vast range of designs and styles to choose
water closet. Urinals have even less presence in the from, including standard round or elongated toilets but
residential area. In fact, you can pretty well bet that venturing out to wall-mounted models, oversize toilets,
any home plumber you ask about urinals will confess or toilets made from materials other than standard
to never having installed one. And yet, with water enameled porcelain, such as stainless steel.
The toilet can be hidden in an alcove and kept as simple as can be, or it can exhibit a bit of design flourish. If you really want your
toilet to make a design statement, combine it with a matching bidet for the ultimate in European-style luxury.
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■ Fixture Types
Two-piece toilets have a separate tank and bowl, and they account for the vast majority of toilets in homes today. Their main
advantage is low cost. They come with an elongated bowl (left) or a round bowl (right).
Flushing mechanisms are changing rapidly to keep pace Bidets are essentially wash basins with a very specific
with the demand for greater water economy. One new function.
technology is the dual-flush design, which has a light flush
option for liquid waste only that can save 20% on water usage
over standard 1.6 gallon models.
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Cabinets & Vanity Cabinets
T he typical bathroom lacks storage space. In fact,
creating better storage is one of the most common
reasons people remodel their bathrooms. As you design
popular spot is over the toilet. Some are freestanding
units with legs that straddle the toilet tank. Wall
cabinets can even be mounted low and topped with
your new bathroom, keep in mind three basic types of a counter. Or, they can be installed in banks.
storage: cabinetry, open shelving, and linen closets.
Vanity cabinets hide plumbing, provide storage,
Wall cabinets, because they are shallow, are versatile and support the countertop and sink. A vanity is
storage units for small spaces like bathrooms. They often a bathroom’s visual focal point and can set the
can be installed on any available wall space—the most decorative tone for the whole room.
Cabinetry can be a dominating design element, as in the large, luxurious bathroom above. For floor-to-ceiling banks of
cabinets you may use kitchen cabinetry, but choose a base cabinet that’s specifically designed for bathrooms if you are including a
sink or vanity. Vanity cabinets are 4” shorter than kitchen sink base cabinets.
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Medicine cabinets offer quick access to toiletries otherwise unused space (page 266). Many
and keep storage items beyond the reach of young incorporate lighting.
children. Most are designed with a mirror on
the door or doors and are installed above a sink. Linen cabinets are tall and narrow, taking advantage
They can be either surface-mounted or of floor-to-ceiling space. They can add significant towel
recessed into walls between studs to exploit and bedding storage without taking much floor space.
Storage is one good reason to choose a vanity cabinet over Cabinet countertops can be customized to add useful
other lavatory sink options, such as pedestal sinks or wall- horizontal surfaces in otherwise unusable space. This banjo-
hung sinks. Trends and styles change in relatively rapid fashion style, cleat-supported countertop is extended to create a shelf
when it comes to cabinetry. Current styles favor cabinets that directly above the toilet tank lid. Make sure to leave enough
look like movable furnishings (see the bun feet on the vanity space to get the lid on and off easily.
cabinet above) even though they are secured and plumbed the
same way as traditional base cabinets with kickspaces.
(continued)
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Whatever type of cabinet you’re considering, you’ll Other storage options for bathrooms include shelves
have the choice of stock or custom-made designs: and closets:
Stock cabinets are mass-produced in standard sizes Shelves are a useful addition to bathrooms that
and warehoused for quick delivery. They are less don’t have room for elaborate cabinetry. They can be
expensive than custom-made cabinets of comparable recessed or surface-mounted and are often combined
wood species, but a wide range of prices can be had with baskets and storage bins.
within both categories.
Linen closets are recessed in the wall and extend
Custom cabinets are built to order by a cabinetmaker or from floor to ceiling. Adding or relocating a closet
cabinet shop, so you get exactly the combination of size, requires significant structural modifications to
style, material, and finish that you want. Start shopping your walls.
for custom cabinets early and plan on at least six to eight
weeks and probably longer from design to delivery.
A medicine cabinet has mirrored doors that open to reveal Slide-out storage racks are especially useful in base
shallow shelving. Often, they have an integral light above or cabinets. Functioning basically as drawers, slide-out racks can
to the sides of the mirror. Despite the name, avoid storing be included at the time of purchase or added later.
medicine in a medicine cabinet; instead, look for a locking or
hard-to-reach cabinet with a cool, dry interior.
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A linen cabinet is a freestanding
furnishing, but it can take on a built-in
appearance if you integrate it with other
cabinets and wall trim. Linen cabinets and
linen closets can be made more efficient
by customizing with features such as door-
back shelves and pull-out laundry bins.
A full-length single door cabinet makes efficient use of space and can be matched stylistically to your medicine cabinet for
extra impact.
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Lighting
L ighting can set the mood of any room. Dim lights
and lit candles are perfect for a leisurely soak
in the tub. When it comes to shaving or applying
makeup, though, bright lights are best.
As with the rest of the house, the bathroom is best
served by a combination of general, task, and accent
lighting, to ensure personal safety, provide ambience,
and permit various uses of the space.
General lighting usually involves an overhead fixture
or fixtures that illuminate the whole room. Natural
lighting is considered part of your general lighting.
Task lighting provides directed light for specific
activities, such as applying makeup or shaving.
Accent lighting can be used to highlight decorative
points of interest, such as architectural details or artwork.
Recessed light fixtures provide nondirectional lighting and
have a fairly neutral design impact.
Surface-mounted fixtures are easy to install and
available in a variety of styles. Just be sure that all
fixtures you choose are moisture-proof and meant for
use in a bathroom environment.
Recessed ceiling fixtures are set into canisters and
have trim kits that are mounted flush with the surface
of the ceiling and some include adjustable heads that
allow you to direct the light one way or another. This
improves headroom in a small bath.
Wall-mount fixtures are common in bathrooms,
and provide ideal lighting for personal grooming,
especially when placed on both sides of a mirror,
as well as above.
A combination of general lighting, task lighting, and Ceiling mount fixtures are excellent overall light
natural lighting ensures that all lighting needs are met. sources in the small spaces of most bathrooms.
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Heating & Ventilation Good ventilation protects surfaces from moisture
damage, deters mold and mildew, and keeps air
fresh. Vents with electric fans (pages 200 to 203) are
required by code in any bathroom without windows.
C onsider room size, the number of windows, and the
type of heat in the rest of the house when making
decisions about your bathroom heating system. Consult
The vent must exhaust moist air directly out doors, not
into attics or wall cavities.
Purchase a vent fan that’s rated at least 5 cfm
a professional before making final decisions. If your higher than the square footage of your bathroom.
primary heat system is inadequate, you have three basic Local building codes may have specific requirements,
choices for auxiliary heat in bathrooms: so check with your building inspector or HVAC
contractor before selecting a ventilation unit.
Electric heaters are mounted either by themselves
or as part of light/vent/heating units.
Heat lamps use infrared lightbulbs to provide
radiant heat.
Radiant floor‑heating systems are installed beneath
the flooring and circulate either hot water or electricity.
DIY radiant heat floor systems are electric mats installed Vent and light combinations serve the dual purpose of
beneath floor coverings to warm your feet and heat your room. lighting the room and reducing moisture and odors. Some
contain an infrared heating element for a third function (inset).
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Walls & Ceilings
If you add, move, replace, or resurface walls in
your bathroom, use the best materials for the job.
Options include:
Drywall is adequate for most bathrooms, except for
the area around tubs and showers.
Greenboard is a drywall with waterproof facing. It
has fallen out of usage in recent years.
Cementboard is used primarily on an underlayment
for ceramic tile.
Glass block is a decorative building block that has
great visual appeal, but can’t bear loads.
You’ll want the wall and ceiling finishes to be easy
to maintain. Wall finishes for tub and shower surrounds,
and behind sinks and toilets should be waterproof.
Natural stone and ceramic tiles can be combined to create
custom wall surfaces.
Paint finishes range from flat to glossy (enamel).
Glossy finishes are best for areas that will be
cleaned often. Latex (water-based) paints are more
environmentally friendly than oil-based paints.
Wallpaper should be treated to withstand
moisture. Choose smooth-textured, solid vinyl
or vinyl-coated wallpaper.
Wall tiles are durable, easy to clean, and available
in hundreds of styles, colors, and materials, including
stone, ceramic, glass, and—if you want a really
unusual look—metals.
Solid-surface material is often used to fashion walls
in tub and shower surrounds.
Bathroom ceilings need moisture-resistant
Glass block allows light to penetrate the wall while serving as finishes. Avoid textured ceilings, which peel in humid
a partition. conditions and are difficult to clean, repair, or paint.
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Flooring
B athroom floors should stand up to daily use,
frequent cleaning, and moisture.
Resilient sheet vinyl flooring is inexpensive but
is seldom the first choice of professional designers.
It is simple to install, easy to clean, seamless, but
available in a limited number of of colors, patterns,
and styles.
Resilient tile and planks made of vinyl are easy
to install. The latest versions are made to stand up to
even the most demanding bathroom conditions.
Vinyl flooring is popular with homeowners because it is
Ceramic tile is available in three main types: relatively inexpensive, durable, and easy to clean.
glazed ceramic tile, quarry tile, and water-resistant
porcelain tile. Although cleaning issues are created
by the grout lines, mosaic sheets of ceramic tile are
highly popular.
Natural stone tile is a premium flooring material.
Granite, marble, and slate are the most common
stone products for floors.
Hardwood floors are difficult to totally waterproof so
they should be limited to half baths, where moisture is
not a big problem.
Stone floor tile creates an inviting atmosphere with
natural appeal.
Carpet typically doesn’t have the water resistance
required for bathroom floors, and it traps mold and
mildew. Be sure to select a product that’s designed
especially for bathrooms.
The condition of your floor structure may affect
the cost of installing new flooring. If the subfloor must
be replaced or repaired, more time and money will be
Ceramic floor tile, a popular choice for bathrooms, is durable required. Consult a professional to assess the state of
and water-resistant. your subfloor.
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Getting Started
A great bathroom provides a comfortable, attractive,
and convenient setting. It is a private retreat,
where you can tend to your needs in a relaxed and
pleasant fashion.
When designing a new bathroom or renovating
an existing one, style can be as big a consideration as
function. From the choice of materials to the layout of
fixtures, the space should reflect your individual sense
of style through the use of particular colors, textures,
and patterns.
And yet, a bathroom does have to be functional.
Without a strong foundation on which to express
your style, you may spend money and time creating
your new bath, yet it may not turn out as you’d
hoped. So the first step is to determine your needs
and budget, and draw up some plans.
In this chapter:
• Determining Your Needs
• Designing for Accessibility
• Design Standards
• Drawing Plans
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Determining Your Needs
A typical bathroom is divided into three activity
areas: the toilet, the sink, and the shower/
tub. To create a successful bath design, you need
The typical family bath can fit in a 5 × 7‑foot area.
A larger bathroom allows space for extra features,
such as double sinks or separate shower and tub
to consider the relationship of these areas, allowing area. A small family bath may conserve space by
for accessibility and safety. This relationship varies combining the tub and shower, incorporating recessed
depending on the type of bathroom being renovated: shelving, and featuring space‑efficient fixtures and
half bath, family bath, or master bath. storage cabinets. Finishes and fixtures should be
Half baths, also called powder rooms or guest low‑maintenance and highly durable, such as ceramic
baths, are small rooms near common areas of the tile and enameled fixtures.
home. They are designed largely for visitors to use. Bathrooms for children must be safe for them to
They can be as small as 20 square feet and are use unsupervised and should be easy to adapt as the
often located near entrances or entertainment children grow. Features that make daily hygiene easier
areas of a home. It’s best to have their doors open and safer for children include single‑handle faucets
into hallways. with antiscald guards, adjustable showerheads, safety
Half baths typically feature a toilet and a vanity plugs in receptacles, grab bars, smaller toilets, lowered
or pedestal sink finished with smaller fixtures and sinks, and vanities with built‑in step stools.
finer materials. When designed as a guest bath that The master bath is usually connected to the
includes a shower, these rooms require more space master bedroom and is a sanctuary for the owners
and are called three‑quarter baths. of the house. It is typically quite large and may have
The family bath is usually located near the separate activity centers containing features such as a
sleeping areas in a home. It is used by more than jetted tub, shower, toilet partition, and multiple sinks
one family member, and it should provide storage for and vanities. It may even feature a sauna or steam
toiletries, towels, laundry, and cleaning supplies. It room. The fixtures and finishing materials generally
features at least one sink, one toilet, and a shower and feature ceramic, stone, or marble tiles; custom
tub or tub/shower combination. cabinets; and upscale accessories.
The half-bath, sometimes called a
powder room, consists of a toilet and
sink, but no shower or tub. It is usually
found near entertainment areas for
guest convenience.
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This master bath easily accommodates a busy couple’s schedules with side-by-side sinks, separate tub and shower, and a roomy
makeup table built into the vanity.
The abundance of cabinetry makes the most of a narrow bathroom and provides additional storage for the attached master bedroom.
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Designing for Accessibility
T he safety and accessibility of nearly all aspects of a
bathroom can be improved.
For safer floors, add a slip‑resistant glaze to
Toilets, faucets, sinks, cabinets, tubs, and showers
can all be adapted or changed for increased usability
by people who have experienced inflexibility or loss
ceramic tile, and add nonslip adhesive strips or decals of strength.
to shower floors. If you’re replacing your floor, look for Toilet height can be adjusted with the installation
mosaic tiles, vinyl, and cork materials. Matte finishes of a height adapter that raises a standard toilet seat 2 to
tend to be less slippery than polished surfaces and 5 inches. You can also consider an adjustable‑height
they reduce glare. toilet or a model with a power‑lift seat.
A bathroom designed for accessibility is an increasingly important consideration as our population ages.
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A personal hygiene system can be installed to help people A touchless electronic faucet has a sensor that turns water
with physical disabilities maintain independence. Here, the flow on and off when hands are present.
system is built into an after-market toilet seat that functions as
a bidet, offering hands-free cleansing.
Power-lifts make toilet use easier for people with limited leg Roll-out base cabinets provide the option of seating space
or joint strength. at the countertop.
(continued)
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Consider replacing your toilet with a wall‑hung hardware to cabinets to bring items within reach for
style that can be installed at any height, providing seated people or those with limited mobility.
additional clear space for maneuvering a wheelchair Install your countertops at varied heights to
or walker. To help people with physical disabilities serve both seated and standing users. Also consider
maintain independent personal hygiene, install either mounting the faucet controls at the side of the sink,
a bidet or a toilet with an integral personal hygiene rather than the back, for easier access.
system. Grab bars are a must on walls around the toilet. If you are replacing your sink, choose a style
Install antiscald guard and volume‑control devices that is shallower at the front and deeper at the
to faucets and showerheads. Replace double‑handle drain. Or install a wall‑mounted sink positioned
faucets with single‑lever models, which are easier at 30 to 32 inches. Providing a clear space under
to use. A faucet with motion‑sensor operation for sinks and low sections of countertop allows
hands‑free use is a plus. seated users to comfortably reach the vanity. Use
Change a standard showerhead to an adjustable fold‑away doors, remove face frames on base
showerhead mounted on a vertical slide‑bar to cabinets, or install roll‑out base cabinets to gain
accommodate people of all heights. Look for handheld clear space. Always finish the floor under fold‑away
models for best control. or roll‑out cabinets. Then insulate hot‑water supply
Vanities and cabinets with C‑shaped pulls or pipes or install a protective panel to prevent burns
magnetic touch latches are easy to use. Add pull‑down to seated users.
A side-mounted faucet is easier to reach on this accessible, A tilted mirror allows seated or short users to easily
wall-hung sink. see themselves.
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Roll-in shower designs, roll-under sinks, grab bars, adjustable slide-bar showers, and open floor space make bathing easier for
people with disabilities.
Install grab bars in and around the shower Consider replacing a combination tub and shower
and tub. Adding a shower seat or installing a with a stand‑alone shower with a base that slopes
pull‑down or permanent seat in the shower allows gently toward the drain, rather than a curb to contain
elderly or disabled family members to sit while water. When fitted with a pull‑down seat and an
bathing. Install a permanently mounted shower adjustable handheld showerhead, roll‑in showers can
seat at 18 inches high, and be sure the seat is at accommodate people with a wide range of abilities.
least 15 inches deep. Reverse door hinges so doors open out. That way,
Water controls and faucets on tubs repositioned the door swing won’t be blocked if someone falls.
toward the outside edge at a height of 38 to 48 inches If needed, widen doorways to 32 to 36 inches so
allows the water to be turned on and adjusted before wheelchair and walker users can enter the bathroom
getting in to bathe. If you’re buying a new bathtub, easily. Or, replace a swing door with a pocket door to
consider one with a side‑access door. gain clear space.
(continued)
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A swing-in door makes bathtubs
accessible to practically anyone. The door
creates a tight seal when closed and
cannot be opened if the tub is full.
Install a pocket door in your bathroom
to gain more clearance room for wheel-
chairs and walkers. Pocket doors do not
require door stop molding, allowing for
some additional clearance.
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Recommended Clearances ▸
A bathroom should be planned with enough approach approach spaces (patterned areas) and clearances shown
space and clearance room to allow a wheelchair or walker here include some ADA guidelines and recommendations
user to enter and turn around easily. The guidelines for from universal design specialists.
18"
Wall to 17"–18"
center Seat height 40" max.
29" 30"–32"
min.
32"
min.
Toilet Sink & Vanity
Door 36"
(32" min.)
21" max. 30" min.
Tub
60" min.
Hand-held
showerhead
Sink 30" Radius
18"-wide
Handle surface
18" min.
15" 48"
48" min. Shower
Seat max.
48"
min.
38"–48"
18"
18" min. 36" min.
Shower Floor Plan
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Design Standards
O nce you’ve drawn up your plan and created a
materials list, you’ll need to have them reviewed
by your local building department. Getting approval
rooms that are safe and accessible to all users (see
Resources, page 283).
Your bathroom probably won’t conform to all of
early in the process can save you time and expense the recommended standards, but they can help guide
later. To help ensure success, here are some design your overall plan. What your plan must include is
standards for you to follow: everything prescribed by the local building codes,
The National Kitchen and Bath (NKBA) publishes including plumbing and wiring codes (see pages 278
a list of bathroom design standards to help people plan to 281).
Bathroom Design Standards ▸
Codes and permits are necessary to ensure safety in any sinks should have 30" clearance between bowls from
remodel. They’re not the most fun to focus on—not like centerline to centerline.
choosing just the right floor covering or deciding between • Provide access panels for all electrical, plumbing, and
granite or marble countertops—but they are important. HVAC systems connections.
• Include a ventilation fan that exchanges air at a rate
• Plan doorways with a clear floor space equal to the of 8 air changes per hour.
door’s width on the push side and greater than the • Choose countertops and other surfaces with edges
door’s width on the pull side. Note: Clear floor spaces that are smoothed, clipped, or radiused.
within the bathroom can overlap.
• Design toilet enclosures with at least 36" × 66" of
space; include a pocket door or a door that swings
out toward the rest of the bathroom.
• Install toiletpaper holders approximately 26" above
the floor, toward the front of the toilet bowl.
• Place fixtures so faucets are accessible from outside
the tub or shower. Add antiscald devices to tub and
sink faucets (they are required for shower faucets).
• Avoid steps around showers and tubs, if possible.
• Fit showers and tubs with safety rails and grab bars.
• Install shower doors so they swing open into the
bathroom, not the shower.
• Use tempered glass or another type of safety glass
for all glass doors and partitions.
• Include storage for soap, towels, and other items near
the shower, located within 15 to 48" above the floor.
These should be accessible to a person in the shower
or tub.
• Provide natural light equal to at least 10% of the floor
area in the room.
• Illuminate all activity centers in the bathroom with
task and ambient lighting.
• Provide a minimum clearance of 15" from the
centerline of sinks to any sidewalls. Double-bowl
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Building Codes for Bathrooms ▸
The following are some of the most common building codes for bathrooms. Contact your local building department for a
list of all codes enforced in your area.
• The minimum ceiling height in bathrooms is 7 ft. • Waste and drain lines must slope 1⁄4" per foot toward
(Minimum floor area is determined by clearances the main DWV stack to aid flow and prevent blockage.
around fixtures.) • Each bathroom must be wired with at least one
• Sinks must be at least 4" from side walls and have 20-amp circuit for GFCI-protected receptacles, and
21" of clearance in front. one 15-amp (minimum) circuit for light fixtures and
• Sinks must be spaced 4" away from neighboring vent fans without heating elements.
sinks and toilets, and 2" away from bathtubs. • All receptacles must be GFCI-protected.
• Toilets must be centered 15" from side walls and • There must be at least one permanent light fixture
tubs, with 21" clearance in front. controlled by a wall switch.
• New and replacement toilets must be low-flow • Wall switches must be at least 60" away from
models (1.6 gal./flush). bathtubs and showers.
• Shower stalls must be at least 30" × 30", with 24" of • Toilet, shower, vanity, or other bathroom
clearance in front of shower openings. compartments must have adequate lighting.
• Steps must be at least 10" deep and no higher • Light fixtures over bathtubs and showers must be
than 71⁄4". vaporproof, with a UL rating for wet areas.
• Faucets for showers and combination tub/showers • Vanity light fixtures with built-in electrical receptacles
must be equipped with antiscald devices. are prohibited.
• Supply lines that are 1⁄2" in diameter can supply a • Whirlpool motors must be powered by dedicated
single fixture, or one sink and one toilet. GFCI-protected circuits.
• A ⁄4"-diameter supply line must be used to supply
3
• Bathroom vent ducts must terminate no less than
two or more fixtures. 10 ft. horizontally or 3 ft. vertically above skylights.
*Note: Codes for accessible bathrooms may differ (see page 53).
Follow minimum clearance and size
15" from guidelines when planning locations of
center of bathroom fixtures. Easy access to fixtures
toilet to
nearest wall is fundamental to creating a bathroom that
or fixture is comfortable, safe, and easy to use.
21" clearance in front
of sinks and toilets
24" clearance for
shower door
Shower base
at least
30" × 30" 4" min.
between sinks
4" min.
from wall
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Drawing Plans
I f your new bathroom involves a layout change or
expansion, you’ll find it helpful to create floor plans
and elevation drawings. A floor plan illustrates an
overhead view, while an elevation drawing illustrates
a face‑on view. Your drawings will be the basis
for obtaining permits, negotiating contracts with
tradespeople, and ordering products.
To begin, make a rough sketch of the existing floor
plan. Measure and record the size and location of all
existing fixtures and mechanicals from a fixed point.
Sketch an elevation of each wall.
Use these rough sketches to draft a precise scale
drawing of your existing floor plan. You can now
sketch variations of your new bathroom using the scale
drawing of the floor plan as a guide. A scale drawing shows everything in accurate proportion.
Use the overall dimensions of your new floor plan After measuring the dimensions of your existing bathroom,
to sketch elevation options. In the end, the elevations draft a floor plan, including any adjoining space that could be
and floor plans must agree. used for expansion of the layout (such as the storage closet
shown below). The normal scale for bathroom plans is 1⁄2" = 1 ft.
The existing floor plan draft should
contain dimension lines noting the
accurate measurements of the space,
including the location of all existing
fixtures. This draft also shows the location
of electrical circuits. It is the starting point
for your remodeled bathroom plan.
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New Bathroom Floor Plan Samples ▸
Option A: This floor plan option Option B: This option explores Option C: The existing room is
of the draft on the opposite page expanding the room and expanded by annexing the adjacent
shows a layout change within the experimenting with some interesting closet. There’s plenty of floor space,
existing space. The sink and vanity angles. There is now plenty of floor a double vanity, and a built-in linen
stay in the same place, but the tub space for two people, plus room for cabinet. This plan has the practical
and toilet have been switched. There a double vanity and a large linen benefits of Option B, but is less
is room to add a linen cabinet, but cabinet for increased storage. expensive to build.
the space is still very cramped.
Bathroom Elevation Options ▸
Option A: This elevation shows a simple arrangement Option B: This variation shows a custom mirror framed in
with a standard mirror and light fixture. It also shows by a partition wall, and a soffit that runs above the vanity,
ceramic tile in the shower area, ending just above the toilet, and tub. Lights are recessed in the soffit.
shower curtain.
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Removal &
Demolition
T he teardown phase is one of the least glamorous
aspects of a bathroom renovation. But without it, you
can’t get started on your bathroom remodeling project.
Begin this phase of the project by removing
fixtures located near the door. Even if you plan on re‑
using these, get them out of the way so that they are
not damaged, and to clear the way for removal of other
bathroom elements. Then remove cabinets, vanities,
electrical fixtures, and accessories.
Carefully remove old bathtubs and shower stalls
only after you have created a clear path to get them
out. Trim, wall, and floor surfaces may need to be
removed first. Label all items you plan to reuse, then
store them where they won’t be damaged and won’t
be in the way. Get help when removing heavy fixtures
such as a cast‑iron bathtub.
Turn off water supply and electrical power to the
bathroom before removing electrical and plumbing
fixtures or cutting into walls or ceilings.
Work safely: wear eye protection, dust mask,
and heavy gloves during any demolition and removal
process. And protect the rest of the house by sealing
off the bathroom under renovation with plastic
sheeting or tarps placed over the doorway.
In this chapter:
• Removing Toilets
• Removing Sinks & Cabinets
• Removing Showers & Tubs
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Removing Toilets
T he toilet is the first fixture to be removed in most
remodeling projects. Loosening corroded or rusted
nuts and bolts is the most difficult part of the process.
See page 59 for tips on removing problem nuts.
Old toilets that will not be reinstalled may be
broken up into small, easily managed pieces, using a
sledgehammer. Disconnect the toilet and cover it with
a heavy blanket before breaking it. Wear eye protection,
long sleeves, and heavy gloves during the demolition.
Tools & Materials ▸
Adjustable wrench Basin wrench
Ratchet wrench and Sponge
sockets Rag
Most toilets are fragile and should be removed during
Screwdriver Bucket full remodeling projects, even if you do not plan to replace
Putty knife Drop cloth them. Always use care when handling any fixture made of
china or porcelain.
Tips for Removing Toilets ▸
Protect your floor with a drop cloth when removing Disconnect any pipes between a wall-mounted toilet tank
the toilet, if you plan to keep the original floor covering. and the bowl, after turning off the water supply and emptying
Residue from the wax ring seal between the bottom of the tank. Older toilets often have a metal elbow that connects
the toilet and the toilet flange is very difficult to remove the tank to the bowl. Set 2 × 4 braces below the tank before
from floor coverings. detaching it from the wall.
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■ How to Remove a Toilet & Wax Ring
1 2 3
Tank
bolt
Supply
tube
Shutoff
valve
Turn off the water, then flush the toilet Remove the nuts from the tank bolts Pry off the floor bolt trim caps at the
to empty the tank. Use a sponge to with a ratchet wrench. Carefully remove base of the toilet, then remove the floor
remove the remaining water in the tank the tank and set it aside. nuts with an adjustable wrench. See
and bowl. Disconnect the supply tube page 59 for tips on removing corroded
with an adjustable wrench. or rusted nuts.
4 5 6 Base
Horn
Floor
bolts
Wax ring
Toilet flange
Straddle the toilet and rock the bowl Remove the old wax from the toilet If the old toilet will be reused, clean
from side to side until the seal breaks. flange in the floor. Plug the drain the old wax and putty from the horn and
Carefully lift the toilet off the floor bolts opening with a damp rag to prevent the base of the toilet.
and set it on its side. A small amount of sewer gases from rising into the house.
water may spill from the toilet trap.
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Removing Sinks & Cabinets
R eplacing bathroom sinks, countertops, and
cabinets are a quick and relatively inexpensive
way to give your bathroom a fresh, new look.
First, disconnect the plumbing, then remove
the sink basin or integral sink/countertop unit. Next,
take out any remaining countertops. Finally, remove
the cabinets and vanities.
Tools & Materials ▸
Bucket Hacksaw
Channel‑type pliers or pipe cutter
Adjustable wrench Screwdriver
Basin wrench Utility knife
Reciprocating saw Flat pry bar
Cut apart cabinets and vanities to simplify their removal and
disposal. A reciprocating saw or jigsaw works well for this job.
Wear eye protection.
■ How to Disconnect Sink Plumbing
1 Faucet
tailpiece
2 3
Slip nuts
Coupling
nuts
Trap
arm
Supply Pop-up
tube drain linkage
Retaining
nut
P-trap
Turn off the shutoff valves, then With a bucket beneath, remove the Disconnect the pop-up drain linkage
remove the coupling nuts that connect P-trap by loosening the slip nuts at both from the tailpiece of the sink drain by
the supply tube to the faucet tailpieces ends. If the nuts will not turn, cut out the unscrewing the retaining nut.
using a basin wrench. If the supply drain trap with a hacksaw. When prying
tubes are soldered, cut them above or cutting, take care to avoid damaging
the shutoff valves. the trap arm that runs into the wall.
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Tips for Removing Sinks ▸
Shown in cross-section for clarity
Mounting
clips
Self-rimming sink: Disconnect the plumbing, then slice Rimless sink: Disconnect the plumbing, including the
through any caulking or sealant between the sink rim and drain tailpiece. To support the sink, tie wire around a piece
the countertop using a utility knife. Lift the sink off the of scrap wood and set the wood across the sink opening.
countertop. Thread the wire down through the drain hole and attach
it to another scrap of wood. Twist the wire until taut, then
detach the mounting clips. Slice through any caulking,
slowly loosen the wire, then remove the sink.
Wall-mounted sink: Disconnect the Pedestal sink: Disconnect the Integral sink/countertop:
plumbing, slice through any caulk or plumbing. If the sink and pedestal Disconnect the plumbing, then detach
sealant, then lift the sink off the wall are bolted together, disconnect the mounting hardware underneath
brackets. For models attached with them. Remove the pedestal first, the countertop. Slice through any
lag screws, wedge 2 × 4s between supporting the sink from below caulk or sealant between the
the sink and floor to support it while with 2 × 4s. Lift the sink off the wall countertop and wall, and between
the screws are removed. brackets (photo, left). the countertop and vanity. Lift the
sink/countertop unit off the vanity.
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■ How to Remove a Medicine Cabinet
1 2 3
Remove the cabinet doors and Remove screws or any other anchors Pull the cabinet out of the wall cavity.
mirrors, if possible. If the cabinet has that hold the sides of the cabinet to the Pry the cabinet loose with a pry bar, or
electrical features, see the variation wall studs. grip the face frame of the cabinet with
shown below. pliers to pull it out.
■ Variations for Wall-Mounted Cabinets
Cable
clamp
Cabinets with built-in electrical features: Shut off the Surface-mounted cabinets: Support the cabinet body from
power at the main circuit box, then disconnect the built‑in below with 2 × 4 braces, then remove the mounting screws to
lights or receptacles. Unscrew the cable clamp on the back free the cabinet from the wall. When removing a large cabinet,
of the connection box so the cable is loose when the cabinet have a helper hold the cabinet while you work.
is removed.
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■ How to Remove a Countertop & Vanity
1 2 3
Disconnect the plumbing, then cut Detach any mounting hardware, Remove the countertop from the
through any caulk or sealant between located underneath the countertop vanity, using a pry bar if necessary.
the backsplash and the wall. inside the vanity.
4 5 6
Turn off the main water supply, Remove the screws or nails (usually Cut through any caulk or sealant
then remove the shutoff valves, driven through the back rail of the between the vanity and wall, using a
preserving as much of the supply pipe cabinet) that anchor the vanity to utility knife, then pry the vanity away
as possible. Cap the supply pipes or the wall. from the wall.
install new shutoff valves after the
vanity is removed, then turn the water
supply back on.
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Removing Showers & Tubs
B athtubs and showers are heavy and bulky fixtures,
so they pose special problems for removal. Unless
the tub or shower has unique salvage value, cut or Shower
pipe
break the unit into pieces for easy removal and disposal.
This technique allows one person to handle most of the
disposal chores. Always wear eye protection and heavy Faucet
gloves when cutting or breaking apart fixtures. body
For most tubs and showers, you need to remove at
least 6" of wall surface around the tub or shower pan
to gain access to fasteners holding it to the wall studs. Shutoff
Maneuvering a tub out of an alcove is also easier when valves
the wall surfaces are removed. If you are replacing the
entire wall surface, do all the demolition work before
removing the tub.
Tools & Materials ▸ Supply
pipes
Reciprocating saw Hammer
Channel‑type pliers Masonry chisel
Screwdriver Wire cutter
Hacksaw Eye protection Disconnect the faucet through the access panel, usually
located on the wall surface behind or next to the tub faucet
Adjustable wrench Utility knife and drain. (If the tub does not have an access panel, add one.)
Flat pry bar 2 × 4 or 1 × 4 lumber Turn off the shutoff valves, then cut the shower pipe above the
Wrecking bar Rag faucet body. Disconnect or cut off the supply pipes above the
shutoff valves.
■ How to Remove Handles & Spouts
1 2 3
Escutcheon
Shower
arm
Collar
nut
Shut off the water supply, then Remove the tub spout by inserting a Unscrew the collar nut to remove the
remove the faucet handles by prying screwdriver into the spout and twisting showerhead. Loosen the escutcheon,
off the covers and unscrewing the counterclockwise until it unscrews from then twist the shower arm counter-
mounting screws. the stub‑out that extends from the clockwise to unscrew it from the
wall plumbing. wall plumbing.
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■ How to Disconnect Drain Plumbing
1 2
Drain
crosspiece
Drain plug
linkage
Remove the drain plug. Most bathtub Spring-mounted drain plugs: Disconnect the drain assembly
plugs are connected to drain plug Remove the plug by unscrewing it from from the tub by inserting a pair of pliers
linkage that is lifted out along with the drain crosspiece. into the drain opening and turning the
the plug. crosspiece counterclockwise. Insert a
long screwdriver between the handles
and use it to twist the pliers.
3 4
Overflow
pipe
Slip nut
Remove the screws in the overflow coverplate (top photo). Remove the overflow pipe by unscrewing the slip nut
Remove the coverplate along with any attached drain plug that holds it to the rest of the drain assembly, then lift out the
(bottom photo). pipe. Stuff a rag into the waste pipe after the overflow pipe is
removed to keep debris from entering the trap.
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■ How to Remove a Shower Stall
1 2 3
After disconnecting the faucet Slice the caulking around each shower Pry shower panels away from the
handles, spout, and showerhead, panel using a utility knife. Remove any wall using a flat pry bar. If the panels are
remove the shower curtain rod or screws holding the panels together. still intact, cut them into small pieces for
shower door, molding or trim, and easier disposal using a jigsaw or a sharp
any other accessories. utility knife.
Drain strainer
Ceramic tile
Steel mesh
Waterproofing
layers
Subfloor
Mortar Shower base shown in cutaway
Fabricated shower bases (fiberglass Ceramic-tile shower base: Remove the drain strainer, and then stuff a rag into
or plastic): Slice the caulking between the drain opening. Wearing protective equipment, break apart a section of tile with
the base and the floor, then unscrew a hammer and masonry chisel. Cut through any steel mesh reinforcement using a
any fasteners holding the base to the wire cutter. Continue knocking tile and mortar loose until the waterproofing layers are
wall studs. Pry the base from the floor exposed, then scrape off the layers with a long‑handled floor scraper.
with a wrecking bar.
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■ How to Remove a Bathtub
1 2
Use a reciprocating saw to cut away at least 6" of the Remove the fasteners that hold the tub flanges to the wall
wall surface above the tub on all sides. Before cutting studs, then use a wrecking bar or a piece of 2 × 4 to pry the
into a wall, be sure faucet handles, spouts, and drains are bathtub loose.
all disconnected.
3 4
Lift the edge of the bathtub and slip a pair of 1 × 4 runners Cut or break the bathtub into small pieces for easy
beneath the tub apron. Pull the tub away from the wall using disposal. Fiberglass, reinforced polymer, or pressed steel
the runners as skids. Have helpers when removing steel and tubs can be cut with a reciprocating saw. Cast-iron and
cast-iron tubs. steel tubs should be carried out.
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Bathroom remodeling
projects
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showers, tubs
& Whirlpools
I nstalling and hooking up plumbing for bathtubs and
showers is a fairly simple job. Jetted tubs are more
complicated because they require electrical hookups,
as well as structural frames.
The most difficult task you’ll face when installing
tubs, showers, and spas may be moving the bulky fixtures
and materials up stairways and through narrow doorways.
With a two‑wheel dolly and a little help, the job is much
easier. Be sure to measure doorways and hallways.
If you do not plan to remove and replace your wall
surfaces, you should still cut away at least six inches
of wall surface above a tub or whirlpool to allow easier
access during installation.
in this chapter:
• Installing Showers
• Shower Enclosure Kits
• Neo‑Angle Showers
• Custom Shower Bases
• Glass Block Showers
• Alcove Bathtubs
• 3‑Piece Tub Surrounds
• Solid‑Surface Surrounds
• Soaking Tubs
• Sliding Tub Doors
• Air‑Jet Tubs
• Tub & Shower Fittings
• Adding a Shower to a Bathtub
• Dual Showerheads
• Slide‑bar Showerheads
■ 69
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installing showers
S howers can be built in a number of ways, from
a number of materials, as discussed on pages 26
to 27. One of the easiest ways to build a shower is to
frame an alcove and line it with prefabricated panels.
Though water‑resistant drywall is the standard backer
for prefab panels, always check the manufacturer’s
recommendations. Some building codes also require
a waterproof membrane between the studs and the
backer material.
The type of shower base you use will affect the
installation sequence. Some bases are made to be
installed after the backer; others should be installed
first. If your base is going in after the wall surface,
be sure to account for the thickness of the surface
material when framing the alcove.
tools & materials ▸
Circular saw 2 × 4 and 1 × 4 lumber
Drill 16d and 8d nails
Plumbing tools Plumbing supplies
Hacksaw Shower base
Channel‑type pliers Rag
Trowel Dry‑set mortar (optional) Ceramic tile for custom showers is installed the same way as
Level Soap in other applications. Ceramic shower accessories, such as a
soap dish, are mortared in place during the tile installation.
■ Antiscald Valves
Antiscald valves are safety devices that protect against sudden water temperature changes. They are required by most building
codes for faucets in showers and combination tub/showers. Once installed, faucets with antiscald valves look like standard faucets.
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■ Anatomy of a Shower
Shower stalls are available in many different sizes The supply system: The shower arm extends from
and styles, but the basic elements are the same. Most the wall, where an elbow fitting connects it to the
shower stalls have a shower alcove, a supply system, shower pipe. The pipe runs up from the faucet, which
and a drain system. is fed by the hot and cold water supplies.
Shower alcove: The alcove is the frame for the stall, The drain system: The drain cover attaches to the
with 2 × 4 walls built to fit around a shower base and drain tailpiece. A rubber gasket on the tailpiece slips
blocking to secure the plumbing. The base sets into a over the drainpipe, leading to the P‑trap and the
mortar bed for support, and water‑resistant drywall or branch drain.
cementboard covers the alcove walls.
elbow shower arm
showerhead
alcove framing
cross-brace members
for showerhead
(72" minimum)
shower pipe
72" minimum
Faucet body
escutcheon
Faucet handle
cross-brace
for faucet (48")
48" shutoff valves
rubber gasket
drain tailpiece
shower base
drainpipe
drain cover
mortar base
drain tailpiece subfloor
drain p-trap
hot supply pipe
cold supply pipe Branch drain
shower stall shown cut away for clarity
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Shower Enclosure Kits
T he fastest and easiest way to create a new shower
in your bathroom is to frame in the stall area
with lumber and wallboard and then install a shower
Tools & Materials ▸
enclosure kit. Typically consisting of three fiberglass Tape measure Slicone caulk
or plastic walls, these enclosure kits snap together at Pencil and caulk gun
the corners and nestle inside the flanges of the shower Hammer Shower enclosure kit
pan to create nearly foolproof mechanical seals. Often Carpenter’s square Shower door
the walls are formed with shelves, soap holders, and Screwdrivers Showerhead
other conveniences. Pipe wrench Faucet
If you are on a tight budget, you can find extremely Level Plumbing supplies
inexpensive enclosure kits to keep costs down. You Strap wrench
can even create your own custom enclosure using Adjustable wrench
waterproof beadboard panels and snap-together Pliers
connectors. Or, you can invest in a higher grade kit Drill/driver
made from thicker material that will last much longer. Center punch
Some kits are sold with the receptor (and perhaps even File
the door) included. The kit shown here is designed to Utility knife
be attached directly to wall studs, but others require a Hacksaw
backer wall for support. The panels are attached to Masking tape
the backer with high-tack panel adhesive.
A paneled shower surround
is inexpensive and easy to install.
Designed for alcove installations, they
often are sold with matching shower
pans (called receptors).
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■ How to Install a Shower Enclosure
1 2
sill plate
Mark out the location of the shower, including any new If you are adding a wall to create the alcove, lay out
walls, on the floor and walls. Most kits can be installed over the locations for the studs and plumbing on the new wood
wallboard, but you can usually achieve a more professional sill plate. Also lay out the stud locations on the cap plate
looking wall finish if you remove the wall covering and floor that will be attached to the ceiling. Refer to the enclosure
covering in the installation area. Dispose of the materials kit instructions for exact locations and dimensions of studs.
immediately and thoroughly clean the area. Attach the sill plate to the floor with deck screws and panel
adhesive, making sure it is square to the back wall and the
correct distance from the side wall.
3 4
new wall stud
Align a straight 2 × 4 right next to the sill plate and make Install the 2 × 4 studs at the outlined locations. Check with
a mark on the ceiling. Use a level to extend that line directly a level to make sure each stud is plumb and then attach them
above the sill plate. Attach the cap plate at that point. by driving deck screws toenail style into the sill plate and
cap plate.
(continued)
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5 6
drain location
Cut an access hole in the floor for the drain, according Install a drain pipe and branch line and then trim the
to the installation manual instructions. Drill openings in the drain pipe flush with the floor. If you are not experienced
sill plate of the wet wall (the new wall in this project) for the with plumbing, hire a plumber to install the new drain line.
supply pipes, also according to the instructions.
7 Faucet body 8
cross brace
Ball valves
supply riser
Install new supply risers as directed in the instruction If the supply plumbing is located in a wall (old or new)
manual (again, have a plumber do this if necessary). Also install that is accessible from the non‑shower side, install framing for
cross braces between the studs in the wet wall for mounting a removable access panel.
the faucet body and shower arm. NOTE: Some local codes
require that you use gate valve shutoffs, not ball valves.
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9
Attach the drain tailpiece that came with your receptor Option: To stabilize the receptor, especially if the floor is
to the underside of the unit, following the manufacturer’s uneven, pour or trowel a layer of thinset mortar into the
instructions precisely. Here, an adjustable spud wrench is being installation area, taking care to keep the mortar out of the drain
used to tighten the tailpiece. access hole. Do not apply mortar in areas where the receptor
has feet that are intended to make full contact with the floor.
10 11
Set the receptor in place, check to make sure it is level, Lay out the locations for the valve hole or holes in the
and shim it if necessary. Secure the receptor with large‑head end wall panel that will be installed on the wet wall. Check
roofing nails driven into the wall stud so the heads pin the your installation instructions. Some kits come with a template
flange against the stud. Do not overdrive the nails. marked on the packaging carton. Cut the access hole with
a hole saw and drill or with a jigsaw and fine‑tooth blade.
If using a jigsaw, orient the panel so the good surface is
facing down.
(continued)
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12 13
clip
connectors
Position the back wall so there is a slight gap (about 1⁄32") Remove the end walls so you can prepare the installation
between the bottom of the panel and the rim of the receptor— area for them. If your kit recommends panel adhesive, apply it
set a few small spacers on the rim if need be. Tack a pair of to the wall or studs. In the kit shown here, only a small bead of
roofing nails above the top of the back panel to hold it in place silicone sealant on the receptor flange is required.
(or use duct tape). Position both end walls and test the fits. Make
clip connections between panels (inset) if your kit uses them.
14 15
Reinstall the end panels, permanently clipping them to the Once the panels are positioned correctly and snapped
back panel according to the kit manufacturer’s instructions. together, fasten them to the wall studs. If the panels have
Make sure the front edges of the end panels are flush with predrilled nail holes, drive roofing nails through them at each
the front of the receptor. stud at the panel tops and every 4 to 6" along vertical surfaces.
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16 17
Install wallcovering material above the enclosure panels Finish the walls and then caulk between the enclosure
and anywhere else it is needed. Use moisture‑resistant panels and the wallcoverings with silicone caulk.
materials, and maintain a gap of 1⁄4" between the shoulders of
the top panel flanges and the wallcovering.
18 19
access
panel
Install the faucet handles and escutcheon and caulk Make an access panel and attach it at the framed opening
around the escutcheon plate. Install the shower arm created in step 8. A piece of 1⁄4" plywood framed with mitered
escutcheon and showerhead (see pages 128 to 137). Add a case molding and painted to match the wall is one idea for
shower door (pages 78 to 79). access panel covers.
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■ How to Install a Hinged Shower Door
1 2
Measure the width of the shower opening. If the walls of Identify which side jamb will be the hinge jamb and
the shower slope inward slightly before meeting the base, take which will be the strike jamb according to the direction
your measurement from a higher point at the full width of the you want your hinged door to swing—an outward swing is
opening so you don’t cut the door base too short. Cut the base preferred. Prepare the jambs for installation as directed in
piece to fit using a hack saw and a miter box. File the cut ends your instructions.
if necessary to deburr them.
3 4
Place the base jamb on the curb of the shower base. If Remove the bottom track and prepare the shower
the joint where the wall meets the curb is sloped, you’ll need base curb for installation of the base track, following the
to trim the corners of the base piece to follow the profile. Place manufacturers directions. Permanently install the bottom track.
a jamb carefully onto the base and plumb it with a level. Then, Bottom tracks (not all doors have them) are usually attached
mark a drilling point by tapping a centerpunch in the middle of to the side jambs or are held in place with adhesive. Never use
each nail hole in each jamb. Remove the jambs, drill pilot holes, fasteners to secure the tracks to the curb.
and then attach the jambs with the provided screws.
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5 6
Working on the floor or another flat surface, attach the Attach the hinge to the door panel, according to the
door hinge to the hinge jamb, if required. In most systems, manufacturer’s instructions. Attach any cap fitting that keeps
the hinge is fitted over the hinge jamb after you attach it to water out of the jamb.
the wall.
7 8
Fit the hinge jamb over the side jamb and adjust it as Install the magnetic strike plate and any remaining caps
directed in your instruction manual. Once the clearances are or accessories such as towel rods. Also attach the sweep that
correct, fasten the jambs to hang the door. seals the passage, if provided.
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neo-angle showers
A neo‑angle shower is the perfect choice when space
is at a premium or when a corner is available. The
shower surrounds are available as one‑piece units or
minimum, but they are so bulky that they are usually
feasible only for new construction. The installation
shown here features a neo‑angle kit made by Kohler
as two‑ or three‑piece bases plus wall units. One‑piece (see Resources, page 283). The specific steps for other
units are preferable because leakage is kept at a models may slightly vary.
tools & materials ▸
Drill and bits Basin wrench or large Roofing nails Silicone sealant
Hole saw channel‑type pliers Scissors Moisture‑resistant wallboard
Hammer Shims File Shower base
Level Lath strips Phillips screwdriver Shower walls
Carpenter’s square Open‑end wrenches Drop cloth Enclosure
Tape measure Jigsaw Center punch Shower drain
C‑clamps Caulk gun Masking tape
Neo-angle showers make efficient use
of bathroom floorspace by fitting into a
corner. The real reason for their popularity,
however, may well be the appeal of the
contemporary glass wall design. Many
neo‑angle showers have frameless glass
panels and doors, which further intensifies
the contemporary appearance.
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■ How to Install a Neo-Angle Shower
1 2
Remove existing wall and floor surfaces in the shower Mark the position and size of the drain according to
location, or remove the existing corner shower. Add additional manufacturer’s specifications and cut the drain hole through
wall studs and cross braces according to the manufacturer’s the subfloor. Install the rough plumbing to the drain hole.
instructions. All studs must be plumb and stud faces even to Install the plumbing for the faucet and showerhead. If you are
create a flat surface. The corner must also be square. Cut and not experienced with home plumbing, hire a plumber for this
install spacers and shims to create plumb and even corners. portion of the job.
3 4
On a level surface, position the walls upright. Use C‑clamps Hold the base on its side and apply a bead of plumber’s
to join them at the top and bottom. Mark drilling points on putty around the underside of the strainer body flange.
the flanges with a marker according to the manufacturer’s Position the strainer body through the shower drain hole. Fit
instructions. At the marks, drill through both flanges with a the gasket and washer over the strainer body and secure
5
⁄16" bit. Remove the clamps and apply a minimum 1⁄4" bead of it with the provided nut. Place the base over the drain hole.
mildew‑resistant clear silicone sealant to one mating surface. Check that the drain pipe extends 11⁄4" into the drain body.
Reposition the walls and fasten them together with a bolt and
washer on one side and a washer, lock washer, and nut on the
other. Tighten with a wrench, but do not overtighten.
(continued)
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5 6
shower arm hole
Place the base in the corner, tight up against the studs. The Carefully cut the pipe entry holes in the shower walls.
three front edges of the base should fit tightly to the floor. If not, First, measure from the top ledge of the base to the valve stem
you may need to use a leveling agent to level the floor. Check of the faucet and the showerhead pipe. Be sure to measure
the base to make sure it’s level along the two back sides and the carefully as misplaced holes cannot be repaired. Drill 1⁄4" pilot
angled front side. Shim along the back of the base to make the holes, then use a hole saw to cut the outlets to the proper size.
base level if needed. When level, drill holes through the base’s Refer to the faucet directions for sizing. Make all cuts from the
nailing flanges at the stud locations, but do not nail it at this time. inside of the shower walls.
7 8
Faucet cutout
Apply a minimum 1⁄4" bead of silicone caulk around the back With a helper, carefully move and align the wall assembly
ledges of the base, where the walls will make contact with onto the base. Check that walls are level and plumb and add
the base. shims if necessary. Drill pilot holes through the nailing flanges
at the stud centers across the wall tops and every 8" down the
nailing flanges on the sides.
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9 10
Check that the shower base is still level. Nail through the Nail lath strips the thickness of the shower’s nailing flanges
pilot holes in the nailing flange using galvanized roofing nails. onto the studs so that the wallboard fits true. Apply silicone
The nails should penetrate the studs to at least 1". Use longer sealant to the nailing flanges before installing the wallboard.
nails if necessary due to shimming. Drive a nail at each stud
location and every 4 to 6" on vertical edges.
11 12
Install wallboard so the finished paper edge is a maximum Lubricate the drain gasket connector with soapy water.
of 1⁄4" above the top of the shower walls. Use greenboard or Push the connector down into the strainer body so it fits tightly.
a mold‑ and moisture‑resistant wallboard such as Sheetrock With a hammer and thin piece of wood, drive the connector
brand Humitek gypsum panels. Finish the wallboard by as far into the drain body as possible. You can now attach the
mudding and taping. Do not use metal tools to scrape mud shower arm and faucet.
spills from the shower surface. Use wood or plastic if necessary.
(continued)
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13 14
Mark the placement of the enclosure on the base ledge Mark the wall jamb screw locations onto the shower
near the wall. Refer to the manufacturer’s directions for the enclosure following the manufacturer’s instructions.
exact measurement. Align the outer edge of the wall jamb with Then, predrill 5⁄16" holes on the shower wall. Repeat for the
the mark so that the sealing groove is on the outside edge. Use second jamb.
a level to check for plumb.
15 16
Align the jamb with the marks on the shower base and with Carefully place the side panel expander jamb over the
the predrilled holes along the shower wall. Insert the wall wall jamb. From inside the shower, use a phillips screwdriver to
anchors through the pilot holes in the shower walls. Slightly turn the adjustment blocks counterclockwise until they firmly
overfill the sealing groove with silicone sealant and reposition contact the expander jamb. Repeat for the other side panel
the jamb over the mounting holes. Drive three panhead screws and check both panels for plumb.
through the holes that don’t contain adjustment blocks. Drive
screws by hand to avoid overtightening.
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17 18
Lay the shower door frame on a level surface with the beveled Decide whether the door will pivot to the left or to the right.
bridge members facing inward and the outside of the door frame Insert bushings into the holes on the pivot points and insert
facing up. Attach the flange and strike post to the bridge members plugs into the opposite side. Insert the short end of the pivot
with #8, 1" self‑piloting screws. Place the doorframe between the pin into the bottom bushing and slide a nylon washer over the
side panels and align the flange lip and strike post lips with the long end of the pivot pin. Push the door handle foam insert
column grooves. Push the lips into the grooves and secure with into the grooves of the door handle. Trim to fit.
#8, 5⁄8" flat‑head screws. Tighten by hand.
19 20
Lift the door panel and place the pivot hole over the bottom Finish and seal the seams. Apply a bead of silicone sealant
pivot pin. Insert the long end of the second pivot pin through around the outside of the shower enclosure where it meets the
the top bushing and into the door. Open and close the door. If it base. Do not apply sealant to the inside of shower. Apply sealant
rubs, make adjustments to the adjustment blocks as required. on the top and outside of the bottom bridge member where it
When adjustments are complete, drive a #8 × 31⁄2" flat‑head meets the door frame. Allow sealant to cure thoroughly before
screw through the top and bottom adjustment holes to secure using the shower.
the side panels to the wall. Install column and post caps. Press
the drain strainer plate into place.
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custom shower Bases
B uilding a custom‑tiled shower base lets you choose
the shape and size of your shower rather than
having its dimensions dictated by available products.
tools & materials ▸
Building the base is quite simple, though it does require Tape measure 16d galvanized
time and some knowledge of basic masonry techniques Circular saw common nails
because the base is formed primarily using mortar. What Hammer 15# building paper
you get for your time and trouble can be spectacular. Utility knife 3‑piece shower drain
Before designing a shower base, contact your local Stapler PVC primer & cement
building department regarding code restrictions and 2‑ft. level Galvanized finish nails
to secure the necessary permits. Most codes require Mortar mixing box Galvanized metal lath
water controls to be accessible from outside the Trowel Thick‑bed floor mortar
shower and describe acceptable door positions and Wood float Latex mortar additive
operation. Requirements like these influence the size Felt‑tip marker CPE waterproof
and position of the base. Ratchet wrench membrane &
Choosing the tile before finalizing the design lets Expandable stopper preformed dam
you size the base to require mostly or only full tiles. Drill corners
Consider using small tile and create a color graduation Tin snips CPE membrane
from top to bottom or in a sweep across the walls. Torpedo level solvent glue
Or, use trim tile and listellos on the walls to create an Tools & materials for CPE membrane
interesting focal point. installing tile sealant
Whatever tile you choose, remember to seal the 2 × 4 and 2 × 10 Cementboard &
grout in your new shower and to maintain it carefully framing lumber materials
over the years. Water‑resistant grout protects the
structure of the shower and prolongs its useful life.
mortar
metal lath
mortar
cpe membrane
mortar
subfloor
metal lath
3-piece Building paper
drain tile
spacers
A custom shower base is built in three layers to ensure proper drainage: the underlayment, the shower pan, and the shower floor.
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■ How to Build a Custom-tiled Shower Base
1 2
Remove building materials to expose subfloor and stud Staple 15-pound building paper to the subfloor of the
walls. Cut three 2 × 4s for the curb and fasten them to the shower base. Disassemble the 3‑piece shower drain and glue
floor joists and the studs at the shower threshold with 16d the bottom piece to the drain pipe with PVC cement. Partially
galvanized common nails. Also cut 2 × 10 lumber to size and screw the drain bolts into the drain piece, and stuff a rag into
install in the stud bays around the perimeter of the shower the drain pipe to prevent mortar from falling into the drain.
base. Install (or have installed) drain and supply plumbing.
3 4
Mark the height of the bottom drain piece on the wall Staple galvanized metal lath over the building paper; cut a
farthest from the center of the drain. Measure from the center hole in the lath 1⁄2" from the drain. Mix thinset mortar to a fairly
of the drain straight across to that wall, then raise the height dry consistency, using a latex additive for strength; mortar
mark 1⁄4" for every 12" of shower floor to slope the pre pan should hold its shape when squeezed (inset). Trowel the mortar
toward the drain. Trace a reference line at the height mark onto the subfloor, building the pre pan from the flange of the
around the perimeter of the entire alcove, using a level. drain piece to the height line on the perimeter of the walls.
(continued)
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5 6
Continue using the trowel to form Measure the dimensions of the shower floor, and mark it out on a sheet of CPE
the pre pan, checking the slope using waterproof membrane, using a felt‑tipped marker. From the floor outline, measure
a level and filling any low spots with out and mark an additional 8" for each wall and 16" for the curb end. Cut the
mortar. Finish the surface of the pre membrane to size, using a utility knife and straightedge. Be careful to cut on a clean,
pan with a wood float until it is even smooth surface to prevent puncturing the membrane. Lay the membrane onto the
and smooth. Allow the mortar to shower pan.
cure overnight.
7 8
Measure to find the exact location of the drain and mark Apply CPE sealant around the drain. Fold the membrane
it on the membrane, outlining the outer diameter of the drain along the floor outline. Set the membrane over the pre
flange. Cut a circular piece of CPE membrane roughly 2" larger pan so the reinforced drain seal is centered over the drain
than the drain flange, then use CPE membrane solvent glue to bolts. Working from the drain to the walls, carefully tuck the
weld it into place and reinforce the seal at the drain. membrane tight into each corner, folding the extra material
into triangular flaps.
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9 10
dam corner
Apply CPE solvent glue to one side, press the flap flat, then At the shower curb, cut the membrane along the studs so
staple it in place. Staple only the top edge of the membrane to it can be folded over the curb. Solvent glue a dam corner at
the blocking; do not staple below the top of the curb, or on the each inside corner of the curb. Do not fasten the dam corners
curb itself. with staples.
11 12
At the reinforced drain seal on the membrane, locate and Use a utility knife to carefully cut away only enough of the
mark the drain bolts. Press the membrane down around the membrane to expose the drain and allow the middle drain
bolts, then use a utility knife to carefully cut a slit just large piece to fit in place. Remove the drain bolts, then position
enough for the bolts to poke through. Push the membrane the middle drain piece over the bolt holes. Reinstall the bolts,
down over the bolts. tightening them evenly and firmly to create a watertight seal.
(continued)
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13 14
Test the shower pan for leaks overnight. Fill the shower Install cementboard on the alcove walls, using 1⁄4" wood
pan with water, to 1" below the top of the curb. Mark the shims to lift the bottom edge off the CPE membrane. To
water level and let the water sit overnight. If the water level prevent puncturing the membrane, do not use fasteners in the
remains the same, the pan holds water. If the level is lower, lower 8" of the cementboard. Cut a piece of metal lath to fit
locate and fix leaks in the pan using patches of membrane around the three sides of the curb. Bend the lath so it tightly
and CPE solvent. conforms to the curb. Pressing the lath against the top of the
curb, staple it to the outside face of the curb. Mix enough
mortar for the two sides of the curb.
15 16
Overhang the front edge of the curb with a straight 1× Attach the drain strainer piece to the drain, adjusting it
board so it is flush with the outer wall material. Apply mortar to a minimum of 11⁄2" above the shower pan. On one wall,
to the mesh with a trowel, building to the edge of the board. mark 11⁄2" up from the shower pan, then use a level to draw
Clear away excess mortar; then use a torpedo level to check a reference line around the perimeter of the shower base.
for plumb, making adjustments as needed. Repeat for the Because the pre pan establishes the 1⁄4" per foot slope, this
inside face of the curb. Note: The top of the curb will be measurement will maintain that slope.
finished after tile is installed (Step 19). Allow the mortar to
cure overnight.
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17 18
Spread tile spacers over the weep holes of the drain to Continue to add mortar, building the floor to the reference
prevent mortar from plugging the holes. Mix the floor mortar, line on the walls. Use a level to check the slope, and pack
then build up the shower floor to roughly half the planned mortar into low spots with a trowel. Leave space around the
thickness of this layer. Cut metal lath to cover the mortar bed, drain flange for the thickness of the tile. Float the surface
keeping it 1⁄2" from the drain (see photo in Step 18). using a wood float until it is smooth and slopes evenly to the
drain. When finished, allow the mortar to cure overnight before
installing the tiles.
19 20 Bullnose tile
Built-up curb
shower pan
Install the tile. At the curb, cut the tiles for the inside to Mix enough mortar to cover the unfinished top of the curb,
protrude 1⁄2" above the unfinished top of the curb, and the tiles then pack it in place between the tiles, using a trowel. Screed
for the outside to protrude 5⁄8" above the top, establishing a off the excess mortar flush with the tops of the side tiles. Allow
1
⁄8" slope so water drains back into the shower. Use a level to the mortar to cure, then install bullnose cap tile. Install the
check the tops of the tiles for level as you work. wall tile, then grout, clean, and seal all the tile. After the grout
has cured fully, run a bead of silicone caulk around all inside
corners to create control joints.
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glass Block showers tools & materials ▸
4‑ft. level Plastic glass block
G lass block has been a popular building material 2‑ft. level spacers
for nearly a century. Its unique combination of Drill Glass block mortar
strength, transparency, and beauty make it the perfect Mixing box or bucket Foam expansion strips
solution for brightening a space without giving up Pointed (brick) trowel Flat 1× board
privacy or security. And those same characteristics make Rubber mallet 3
⁄8" and 1⁄4" scrap wood
glass block ideal for shower enclosures: it creates a Jointing tool Glass block panel
washable, waterproof barrier that lets plenty of light into Sponge anchors and
the shower while obscuring bathers from view. Caulking gun reinforcing wire
Glass blocks come in several sizes, including 8" Glass blocks 2" corrosion‑resistant
and 12" square blocks and 6 × 8" rectangular units. Shower base screws and washers
The standard thickness of blocks is about 4". As with Wall ties Nonsag polyurethane
brick and other masonry units, the nominal size of Track sealant
glass block includes an allowance for the mortar joints.
An 8" square block actually measures 73⁄4" square,
allowing for 1⁄4"‑thick mortar joints in the finished wall.
Unlike standard masonry, glass block cannot be cut, so adding color ▸
be sure to lay out your walls carefully, and do a dry run
with the actual blocks (and using spacers to represent To give your glass block wall a colorful accent, spray
mortar joints) to make sure everything fits. Specialty paint the edges of the block prior to setting the
blocks are available to let you turn corners, create blocks in place.
curves, or finish the exposed ends or tops of walls.
Real glass block creates a beautiful, light‑filled shower with low‑maintenance walls that are far more elegant than a shower
curtain or a flimsy glass‑paned enclosure. Blocks are available with various patterns and textures for special light effects and
different levels of privacy (inset).
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planning a glass Block shower ▸
1
⁄2" filler
strips
34" sister
48" stud
dry-set
mortar asphalt
roofing cement
glass 4" detail area
shower block
base
concrete curb
tile glass block 4"
mortar
concrete
curb subfloor
plastic
sheeting Blocking
Blocking sister
sister joist joists
Install water supply and drain pipes before you begin the construction of the glass block shower. If you have to adjust
the position of your base to fit the block wall, take this into account as you mark the location for the shower drain.
reinforcement ▸
Reinforcement
A glass block installation must be anchored to a supporting
wall stud on at least one end by means of panel anchors.
The block is mortared to its supporting base (see
right) but not to the adjoining walls or ceiling—at these
locations, foam expansion strips allow for movement
between the adjoining structures.
Ladder‑like reinforcement wire set into the mortar
between alternating courses strengthens the block
wall internally.
glass Block mortar mix calculator ▸
numBer 6" BlocK 8" BlocK 12"
oF BlocKs # oF Bags required* # oF Bags required* # oF Bags required*
40 1 2 2
100 3 4 5
200 5 7 10
500 13 16 25
*50-lb bags
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■ How to Build a Glass Block Shower Wall
1 2
Build the shower base with curb (see illustration, previous Lay out the project area. Using a 4‑ft. level, draw a plumb line
page) or install a custom‑order manufactured shower base onto the wall to represent the inside (or outside) face of the
with integral glass block curb following the manufacturer’s glass block wall.
directions. Here, a custom concrete curb and lined shower
receptor have been installed.
3 4
Dry-lay the first course of glass blocks to establish a layout Install wall ties to the walls after every other course. Use
and so you can mark the height of the first course on the wall wall anchors to secure the ties, and make sure the ties will
or walls you’ll be fastening the glass block wall to. reach past at least two glass block units in the layout.
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5 6
Add 3⁄8"-thick foam expansion strips between the panel Mix a batch of glass‑block mortar following the product
anchors on the supporting wall, cutting them to fit if necessary. directions. A stiff mix is easiest to work with, so add water
You can use daubs of caulk or sealant behind the strips to carefully to achieve the driest recommended consistency.
keep them in place. (As you work, mix only enough mortar as you can use in
about 30 minutes.)
7 8
Spread a 3⁄8"-thick full mortar bed along the curb for the first Butter one edge of the next block with a 3⁄8"‑ to 1⁄2"‑thick
few blocks using a pointed trowel. Do not furrow the mortar. layer of mortar. Install the block using a T‑spacer, and push it
Set the first block into the mortar using spacers at the wall and against the first block to create a 1⁄4" mortar joint. Install the
curb. Tap the block with a rubber mallet or trowel handle to set third block in the same manner.
it into the mortar.
(continued)
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9 10
Check the blocks with a level as you work to make sure When the first course is complete, fill any low spots at the
each one is plumb, level, and aligned with the other blocks. tops of the joints with mortar. Set the spacers for the next
Tap the blocks with the mallet or trowel handle to adjust them. course, then lay a full 3⁄8"‑thick mortar bed. Install the second
You can set a flat board across several blocks to check for course of block, checking your work with a level.
level and make adjustments.
using glass Block spacers ▸
Full spacers help maintain joint spacing where four glass blocks meet. To use spacers where blocks adjoin a wall,
ceiling, or curb, break off the side tabs, then trim off two of the spacer legs to create T‑spacers. For the outside corners of
a wall, trim off four legs to create L‑spacers.
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11 12
Lay down a half‑thickness mortar bed for the third course, Clean up the joints. When the mortar in the lower courses is
and then set the first panel anchor into the mortar. Cut a length hard enough to resist light finger pressure (typically within 30
of glass block reinforcement track to span the wall, and set it minutes), twist off the T‑spacer tabs and pack mortar into the
into the mortar, overlapping the anchor by 6". Add the other voids. Smooth the joints with a glass block jointing tool. Fill in low
half of the mortar over the wire and anchors, and install the spots with mortar and remove excess and spilled mortar with a
next course of block. soft brush or damp sponge, rinsing frequently.
13 14
Clean as you go. As you complete each row (about 30 minutes after tooling the Let the mortar cure for at least 24
joints), clean and smooth the joints with a wet tile setter’s sponge, rinsing frequently. hours, and then seal around the glass
After the wall is complete, remove the cloudy residue from the blocks using a clean, block wall(s) with silicone sealant or
dry cloth, and then buff with a piece of scrap carpeting. non‑sag polyurethane sealant. Apply a
sealant to the mortar joints, if desired,
following the manufacturer’s directions.
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Alcove Bathtubs you are contemplating replacing your tub, the first step in
the decision process should be to find the access panel
and determine if it is sufficient. If it is not (or there is no
panel at all), consider how you might enlarge it. Often,
M ost of our homes are equipped with an alcove
tub that includes a tub surround and shower
function. By combining the tub and the shower in one
this means cutting a hole in the wall on the adjoining
room and also in the ceiling below. This creates more
work, of course, but compared to the damage caused by
fixture, you conserve precious bathroom floorspace a leaky drain from a subpar installation, making an access
and simplify the initial installation. Plus, you only have opening is little inconvenience.
one bathing fixture that needs cleaning.
But because tub/showers are so efficient, they
do get a lot of use and tend to have fairly limited
lifespans. The fact that the most inexpensive tubs on
Tools & Materials ▸
the market are designed for alcove use also reduces
Channel‑type pliers Galvanized deck screws
the average tub/shower lifespan. Pressed steel tubs
Hacksaw Drain‑waste‑
have enamel finishes that crack and craze; plastic and
Carpenter’s level overflow kit
fiberglass tubs get grimy and stained; even acrylic and
Pencil 1 × 3, 1 × 4,
composite tubs show wear eventually (and as with
Tape measure 2 × 4 lumber
other fixtures, styles and colors change too).
Saw Galvanized roofing nails
Plumbing an alcove tub is a relatively difficult job
Screwdriver Galvanized roof
because getting access to the drain lines attached to the
Drill flashing
tub and into the floor is often very awkward. Although an
Adjustable wrench Thinset mortar
access panel is required by most codes, the truth is that
Trowel Tub & tile caulk
many tubs were installed without them or with panels
Shims Propane torch
that are too small or hard to reach to be of much use. If
A tub alcove is sized to accept a standard bathtub, usually 5 ft. long in most of North America. A tub with an apron is typical, but
you can build out the front instead if you choose.
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Tub spout
nipple
Faucet
Flashing
Tub ledger
Overflow pipe
Shutoff Drain tailpiece
valves
Hot water supply
Cold water
supply Drain T-fitting
Branch
drain
Wall and floor sections cut P-trap
away for clarity
The plumbing for a bathtub includes hot and cold supply pipes, shutoff valves, faucet, and a spout. Supply connections can be
made before or after the tub is installed. The drain‑waste‑overflow system for a bathtub includes the overflow pipe, drain T‑fitting,
P‑trap, and branch drain. The overflow pipe assembly is attached to the tub before installation.
Overflow
coverplate Overflow
pipe
Drain
Waste T-fitting
drain
Drain tube
coverplate
Drain
tailpiece
A drain-waste-overflow kit with a stopper mechanism Add fiberglass insulation around the body of a steel
must be attached to the tub before it is installed. Available in bathtub to reduce noise and conserve heat. Before
both brass and plastic types, most kits include an overflow setting the tub in position, wrap unfaced batting around
coverplate, a height‑adjustable overflow pipe, a drain T‑fitting the tub, and secure it with string or twine. For showers,
and tailpiece, a waste drain tube, and a drain coverplate that deck‑mounted whirlpools, and saunas, insulate between
screws into the drain tube. the framing members.
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■ How to Install a New Alcove Tub
1 2
Prepare for the new tub. Inspect and remove old or Check the subfloor for level—if it is not level, use pour‑on
deteriorated wall surfaces or framing members in the tub area. floor leveler compound to correct it (ask at your local flooring
With today’s mold‑resistant wallboard products, it makes extra store). Make sure the supply and drain pipes and the shutoff
sense to go ahead and strip off the old alcove wallcoverings valves are in good repair and correct any problems you
and ceiling down to the studs so you can replace them. This encounter. If you have no bath fan in the alcove, now is the
also allows you to inspect for hidden damage in the wall and perfect time to add one.
ceiling cavities.
3 4
Faucet
body
Heatproof
Riser tube mat
Check the height of the crossbraces for the faucet body Begin by installing the new water supply plumbing.
and the showerhead. If your family members needed to stoop Measure to determine the required height of your shower riser
to use the old shower, consider raising the brace for the tube and cut it to length. Attach the bottom of the riser to the
showerhead. Read the instructions for your new faucet/diverter faucet body and the top to the shower elbow.
and check to see that the brace for the faucet body will conform
to the requirements (this includes distance from the surround
wall as well as height). Adjust the brace locations as needed.
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5 6
Attach the faucet body to the cross brace with pipe Slide the bathtub into the alcove. Make sure tub is flat on
hanger straps. Then, attach supply tubing from the stop valves the floor and pressed flush against the back wall. If your tub
to the faucet body, making sure to attach the hot water to the did not come with a tub protector, cut a piece of cardboard to
left port and cold to the right port. Also secure the shower line the tub bottom, and tape pieces of cardboard around the
elbow to its cross brace with a pipe strap. Do not attach the rim to protect the finish from shoes and dropped tools.
shower arm yet.
7 8
Mark locations for ledger boards. To do this, trace the Install 1 × 4 ledger boards. Drive two or three 3"‑galvanized
height of the top of the tub’s nailing flange onto the wall studs deck screws through the ledger board at each stud. All three
in the alcove. Then remove the tub and measure the height of walls should receive a ledger. Leave an open space in the wet
the nailing flange. Measure down this same amount from your wall to allow clearance for the DWO kit.
flange lines and mark new ledger board location.
(continued)
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9 10
Drain strainer
Install the drain-waste-overflow (DWO) pipes before you Thread the male-threaded drain strainer into the
install the tub. Make sure to get a good seal on the slip nuts at female‑threaded drain waste elbow. Wrap a coil of plumber’s
the pipe joints. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to make putty around the drain outlet underneath the plug rim first.
sure the pop‑up drain linkage is connected properly. Make sure Hand tighten only.
rubber gaskets are positioned correctly at the openings on the
outside of the tub.
11 12
Attach the overflow coverplate, making sure the pop‑up Place the tub back into the alcove, taking care not to
drain controls are in the correct position. Tighten the mounting bump the DWO assembly and disturb the connections. You
screws that connect to the mounting plate to sandwich the definitely will want a helper for this job. If the drain outlet of
rubber gasket snugly between the overflow pipe flange and the DWO assembly is not directly over the drain pipe when the
the tub wall. Then, finish tightening the drain strainer against tub is in position, you’ll need to remove it and adjust the drain
the waste elbow by inserting the handle of a pair of pliers into line location.
the strainer body and turning.
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13 14
Attach the drain outlet from the DWO assembly to the drain Drive a 11⁄2" galvanized roofing nail at each stud location,
P‑trap. If your alcove walls are covered, you will appreciate just over the top of the tub’s nailing flange (inset). The nail head
that you spent the time to create a roomy access panel for the should pin the flange to the stud. For extra protection against
tub plumbing. Test the drain and overflow to make sure they moisture penetration, nail strips of metal flashing to the studs
don’t leak. Also test the water supply plumbing, temporarily so they cover the tub flange.
attaching the handles, spout, and shower arm so you can
operate the faucet and the diverter.
15 16
Install the wallcoverings and tub surround (see pages Install fittings. First, thread the shower arm into the shower
104 to 107 for a 3‑piece surround installation). You can also elbow and attach the spout nipple to the valve assembly. Also
make a custom surround from tileboard or cementboard attach the shower head and escutcheon, the faucet handle/
and tile. diverter with escutcheon, and the tub spout. Use thread
lubricant on all parts.
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3-Piece Tub Surrounds Tools & Materials ▸
Jigsaw Adhesive
N o one wants bathroom fixtures that are aging Hole saw Screwdriver
or yellowed from years of use. A shiny new Drill Adjustable wrench
tub surround can add sparkle and freshness to your Measuring tape Pry bar
dream bath. Level Hammer
Tub surrounds come in many different styles, Caulking gun 3‑piece tub surround
materials, and price ranges. Choose the features
you want and measure your existing bathtub
surround for sizing. Surrounds typically come in
three or five pieces. A three‑panel surround is removed and textured plaster must be sanded smooth.
being installed here, but the process is similar for Surrounds can be installed over ceramic tile that is
five‑panel systems. well attached and in good condition, but it must be
Surface preparation is important for good sanded and primed. All surfaces must be primed with
glue adhesion. Plastic tiles and wallpaper must be a water‑based primer.
Three-piece tub surrounds are
inexpensive and come in many colors
and styles. The typical unit has two end
panels and a back panel that overlap in
the corners to form a watertight seal. They
are formed from fiberglass, PVC, acrylic,
or proprietary resin‑based polymers.
Five‑piece versions are also available
and typically have more features such as
integral soap shelves and even cabinets.
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■ How to Install a 3-Piece Tub Surround
1 2
Remove the old plumbing fixtures and wallcoverings in the Replace the wallcoverings with appropriate materials, such
tub area. In some cases you can attach surround panels to as water and mold resistant wallboard or cementboard (for
old tileboard or even tile, but it is generally best to remove the ceramic tile installations). Make sure the new wall surfaces
wallcoverings down to the studs if you can, so you may inspect are smooth and flat. Some surround kit manufacturers
for leaks or damage. recommend that you apply a coat of primer to sheet goods
such as greenboard to create a better bonding surface for the
panel adhesive.
3 Test-fitting ▸
Ensure a perfect fit by taping the surround panels to
the walls in the tub area. Make sure the tops are level
when the overlap seams are aligned and that you
have a consistent gap between the panel bottoms
and the tub flange. Mark the panels for cutting if
necessary and, once the panels have been removed,
make any adjustments to the walls that are needed.
Test-fit the panels before you start; the tub may have
settled unevenly or the walls may be out of plumb. Check
the manufacturer’s directions for distinguishing right and left
panels. Place a panel in position on the tub ledge. Use a level
across the top of the panel to determine if it is level. Create
a vertical reference line to mark the edge of the panel on the
plumbing end.
(continued)
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4 5
After performing the testfit, check the fitting instructions Lay out the locations of the faucets, spout, and shower
to see if you need to trim any of the pieces. Follow the arm. Measure in from the vertical reference line (made in
manufacturer’s instructions for cutting. Here, we had to cut the Step 3) and up from the top of the tub ledge. Re‑measure for
corner panels because the instructions advise not to overlap accuracy, as any cuts to the surround are final. Place the panel
the back or side panel over the corner panels by more than face‑up on a sheet of plywood. Mark the location of the holes.
3". Cut panels using a jigsaw and a fine‑tooth blade that is Cut the holes 1⁄2" larger than the pipe diameter. If your faucet
appropriate for cutting fiberglass or acrylic tileboard. has a recessed trim plate, cut the hole to fit the recess. Using
a hole saw or a jigsaw, cut out the plumbing access holes.
6 7
Apply the panel adhesive to the back of an end plumbing Remove the protective backing from the tape. Carefully
panel. Circle the plumbing outlet holes 1" from the edge. lift the panel by the edges and place against the corner and
Follow the manufacturer’s application pattern. Do not apply top of the tub ledge. Press firmly from top to bottom in the
adhesive closer than 1" to the double‑sided tape or the bottom corner, then throughout the panel.
edge of the panel.
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8 9
Test-fit the opposite end panel and make any necessary Apply adhesive to the back panel following the
adjustments. Apply the adhesive, remove the protective manufacturer’s instructions. Maintain a 1" space between
backing from the tape, and put in place. Apply pressure adhesive tape and the bottom of the panel. Remove protective
to the corner first from top to bottom, and then apply backing from the tape. Lift the panel by the edges and carefully
pressure throughout. center between the two end panels. When positioned, firmly
press in place from top to bottom.
10 11
Apply caulk to the bottom and top edges of the panels Apply silicone caulk to escutcheons or trim plates and
and at panel joints. Dip your fingertip in water and use it to reinstall them. Allow a minimum of 24 hours for caulk and
smooth the caulk to a uniform bead. adhesive to cure thoroughly before using the shower or tub.
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Solid‑Surface Surrounds
B athtub surrounds are designed and installed in the
same way as shower surrounds. Though fiberglass
and plastic fabricated enclosures, as well as custom
ceramic tile, are traditional materials for surrounds,
the use of solid‑surface materials—materials common
to sinks and countertops—are growing in popularity.
Solid‑surface surrounds are available in kits with
1
⁄4" panels that are installed much the same way as
fiberglass enclosures. The panels can be fastened to
any wall material—cementboard and greenboard are
the most common in new construction. Walls must
be free of debris and sealed with two coats of primer.
Solid‑surface panels can be installed over old tile,
though you must chisel out any loose tiles and install
filler strips the same thickness as the tiles (usually 1⁄4")
to fill any gaps between the walls and panels.
Tools & Materials ▸
Tape measure Sandpaper
4‑ft. level Pressure‑sensitive
Jigsaw tape
Drill with a hole saw Panel adhesive
or spade bits Tub & tile caulk
Caulk gun Masking tape
Solid‑surface 1× and 2× lumber
surround kit Solid-surface bathtub surrounds are becoming ever-more
popular and are available as kits.
■ How to Install a Solid-Surface Bathtub Surround
1
Begin panel installation with the back wall. Measure and mark the dimensions on the back side of the panel, then cut using
a jigsaw (left photo). Remove rough edges with fine or medium sandpaper. Test-fit the panel to ensure a proper fit. On the back
side of the panel, apply pressure-sensitive tape 1" from each edge, then apply panel adhesive in the field (right photo). Keep the
adhesive 1" from the tape edges.
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2 3 4
Remove the backing of the For the wall with the plumbing outlets, Test-fit the panel and make any
pressure‑sensitive tape. Lift the panel measure and trim the panel to size. necessary adjustments, then install,
into position, tight into one corner, Measure the location of the plumbing following the same procedures as with
then firmly press the panel to the wall. outlets on the wall, then transfer the the first two panels. After all the panels
Using your hands, smooth across the dimensions to the finished side of the are installed, seal each joint, seam, and
entire panel while applying pressure panel. Drill holes 1⁄2" larger than the edge with a bead of caulk.
to ensure firm contact with the wall. plumbing outlets, using a drill and a hole
Follow the same procedures to install saw or spade bits. Place a scrap board
the panel on the side wall, opposite the beneath the cutout area to ensure a
plumbing outlets. clean cut.
5 6
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to install any trim. Use 1× and 2× lumber to construct temporary bracing to
For corner molding, test‑fit each piece and trim to size, then ensure a strong adhesive bond. Use soft cloth or carpet scraps
apply a bead of panel adhesive down the corner joints and to prevent the bracing from scratching the surround. Allow the
firmly press the moldings into position. Temporarily secure the adhesive to cure overnight, then remove the bracing. Wipe the
molding with tape. surround clean with a damp cloth.
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Soaking Tubs
L ong a favorite in the Japanese culture, soaking tubs
continue to gain fans in America. Although you can
soak in any tub, an actual soaking tub is designed so
As with other types of tubs, soaking tubs
come in a range of styles, shapes, and colors. We’ve
used a deck‑mounted fiberglass tub with a keyhole
that the bather sits—rather than reclines—immersed basin shape, courtesy of Kohler Cos. (see Resources,
in water up to the chin. It usually only takes one long page 283).
soak for a person to become a devotee of the soaking
tub’s relaxing benefits.
The key difference between a soaking tub and
other styles is the wall height, which allows for true
immersion. Traditional soaking tubs are manufactured Tools & Materials ▸
with sides that can rise 36" high or higher; but today’s
soaking tubs for home use are available in a range of Plumbing tools Deck mount
sizes, many with sides around 24" deep. (It’s crucial & supplies faucet set
for proper soaking that the overflow drain is positioned Tape measure Soaking tub
20" or more from the bottom to allow the tub to be Drill Tile mortar
almost completely filled.) Hammer Tile grout
Getting in and out of these types of tubs can be 4‑ft. level Grout float
a challenge, which is why they are often installed Utility knife Ceramic tile
into a platform built especially for the tub. The 2 × 4 lumber (field and
platform allows you to sit and then ease into the tub, 2" screws bullnose)
and it offers a surface to just relax as the tub fills 11⁄4" cementboard
with water. A wide and impressive platform such as screws
the one discussed here leaves plenty of space for Notched trowel
abundant candles, bath salts, plants, or other decor‑ Grout sponge
and mood‑enhancing additions. CDX plywood
The platform described in the instructions that Cementboard
follow is 22" high with a 14" wide ledge—comfortably Hacksaw
accommodating seating around the tub. The tub itself Circular saw
is 24" high, with a 2" lip. You can build a platform so Torpedo level
that the tub rim fits flush, but a lip is a good idea to Thin‑set mortar
keep towels and other items from accidentally sliding Silicone caulk
off the platform and into the bathwater.
Access Panels ▸
Making the supply and drain hook‑ups on a bathtub usually requires access from below or behind the installation area.
When installing a drop‑in tub in a framed deck platform, you can gain access through the platform apron area, too. If you
are hooking up the drain with a slip connection, the Universal Plumbing Code requires that you install a permanent access
panel (see page 77) in the wall behind the tub or in the floor and ceiling below. But regardless of codes, you should make
a point of creating permanent access to the plumbing hook‑ups whenever possible—you need only have one leaky drain
or supply connection to appreciate this. In the tub installation seen here, a removable access panel on the opposite side of
the wet wall provides access to both the drain and supply hookups. This allows the platform deck and apron to be tiled in
a contiguous manner. Because the faucet plumbing is readily accessible, each supply tube is connected to a shutoff valve
next to the fixture and supply risers are used to bring water to the faucet valve.
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■ How to Install a Soaking Tub with Platform
1 2
Place the tub in position on the subfloor. The tub should be 141⁄2" from the two Measure from under lip edge to
corner walls, measured from the underside of the tub lip—where the inside edge of subfloor. This will be the height of the
the platform deck will run—to wall studs. This allows for 1⁄2"‑thick wall surface. Shim as platform wall framing, minus the CDX
necessary to level the tub both ways, or adjust self‑leveling feet if tub has them. Hang plywood decking, 1⁄2" cementboard,
plumb bob from the underside of the lip at each corner of tub and mark the subfloor. and tile.
Check that marks on adjacent corners are the same distance from the wall.
3 4
Remove the tub and hammer a nail in at each corner point. Measure and mark 131⁄2" from the inside edge of the open
Snap chalk lines to represent the inside lines of the inner side sole plates, at several points along the plates. These
platform wall. Measure, cut, and align the 2 × 4 sole plates with marks will serve as guide points for placing the sole plates of
the chalk lines. Screw all four sole plates for the inside platform the outside platform walls. Line up the outside edge of the two
wall into position. Check diagonal measurements or use a outer wall sole plates and screw them in place to the subfloor.
framing square to ensure the sole plates are square. Measure again to ensure sole plates are positioned correctly.
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5 6
Measure and cut studs to create the proper platform height. Route supply lines from the wet wall to the location of
Install studs for both inside and outside platform walls, spacing the deck‑mount faucet. The connections will depend on
them every 16". Use L configurations at corners so that the top what type of deck mount faucet you’ve chosen. Follow the
plates intersect opposite the sole plates. Cut cross braces and manufacturer’s instructions for securing the hot and cold
screw them in place, staggering with the stud placement. connections for the faucet. If you’re unsure of how to plumb
the faucet, hire a plumber.
7 8
Measure and cut CDX plywood for the platform deck (plywood Measure and cut the deck cementboard to cover the
deck for the two open sides should overhang outside wall edge plywood. Cut to the same overhang as the plywood and drill
by 1⁄2" to cover the cementboard that will be used on the walls). holes for faucet if it will be deck‑mounted (the one seen here is
Screw plywood decking into position. If you will be mounting the mounted to the tub deck). Screw cementboard to the plywood
faucet on the deck, cut holes for the valve handles and spout deck over top rail and cross braces. Also attach cementboard
before screwing down that portion of the deck. to the platform aprons.
(continued)
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9 10
Attach wallcoverings in the installation area. Here, six courses Lay tile over the deck surface and the platform aprons
of wall tile will be installed on the walls above the tub deck. A using bullnose tile around the two outside edges. Tile on the
strip of cementboard the same width as the total tile height is inside edge of the platform does not need to be finished—it
attached to the wall as a backer for the tile. Then, water‑resistant will be covered by the tub lip. See pages 234 to 239 for more
drywall is installed to span from the cementboard to the ceiling information on tiling a tub apron. Also install wall tiles.
to create a smooth, paintable wall surface.
Grout the platform and walls with
11 sanded grout. Buff off excess grout with a
coarse rag. Apply a grout sealing product
after the grout has dried for several days
(this may be done after the tub is installed
if you do not want to wait).
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Install the tub. Attach the drain‑waste‑
12 overflow connection to the tub. Trowel
a 1⁄2" bed of mortar on the subfloor
where the tub bottom will sit (unless
manufacturer’s directions state otherwise).
Set the tub in place in the platform
opening, press down into the mortar, and
check for level. There should be a very
slight gap between tub lip bottom edge
and top of tile.
13 14
Let the mortar bed dry and, working Apply a bead of tab and tile caulk around the edges of the tub deck.
through the open walls and under
the platform deck, connect the drain
tailpiece to the trap. A large access
panel lets you get at both the supply
and drain hook ups. See page 99.
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Sliding Tub Doors Tools & Materials ▸
Measuring tape Masonry bit
C urtains on your bathtub shower are a hassle. If Pencil & marker for tile wall
you forget to tuck them inside the tub, water Hacksaw Phillips screwdriver
flows freely onto your bathroom floor. If you forget to Miter box Caulk gun
slide them closed, mildew sets up shop in the folds. Level Masking tape
And every time you brush against them they stick to Drill Silicone sealant
your skin. Shower curtains certainly don’t add much Center punch Tub door kit
elegance or charm to a dream bath. Neither does a
deteriorated door. Clean up the look of your bathroom,
and even give it an extra touch of elegance, with a new
sliding tub door. resemble gold, brass, or chrome. Glass options are also
When shopping for a sliding tub door, you have a plentiful. You can choose between frosted or pebbled
choice of framed or frameless. A framed door is edged glass, clear, mirrored, tinted, or patterned glass. Doors
in metal. The metal framing is typically aluminum can be installed on ceramic tile walls or through a
but is available in many finishes, including those that fiberglass tub surround.
A sliding tub door in a metal frame gives the room a sleek, clean look and is just one of the available options.
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■ How to Install Sliding Tub Doors
1 2
Remove the existing door and inspect the walls. Use a Measure the distance between the finished walls along
razor blade to cut sealant from tile and metal surfaces. Do not the top of the tub ledge. Refer to the manufacturer’s
use a razor blade on fiberglass surfaces. Remove remaining instructions for figuring the track dimensions. For the product
sealant by scraping or pulling. Use a silicone sealant remover seen here, 3⁄16" is subtracted from the measurement to
to remove all residue. Remove shower curtain rods, if present. calculate the track dimensions.
Check the walls and tub ledge for plumb and level.
3 4
Using a hacksaw and a miter box, carefully cut the track Place a wall channel against the wall with the longer
to the proper dimension. Center the track on the bathtub ledge side out and slide into place over the track so they overlap.
with the taller side out and so the gaps are even at each end. Use a level to check the channel for plumb, and then mark
Tape into position with masking tape. the locations of the mounting holes on the wall with a marker.
Repeat for the other wall channel. Remove the track.
(continued)
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5 6
Drill mounting holes for the wall channel at the marked Apply a bead of silicone sealant along the joint between
locations. In ceramic tile, nick the surface of the tile with a the tub and the wall at the ends of the track. Apply a minimum
center punch, use a 1⁄4" masonry bit to drill the hole, and then 1
⁄4" bead of sealant along the outside leg of the track underside.
insert the included wall anchors. For fiberglass surrounds, use
a 1⁄8" drill bit; wall anchors are not necessary.
7 8
Position the track on the tub ledge and against the wall. At a location above the tops of the wall channels,
Attach the wall channels using the provided screws. Do not measure the distance between the walls. Refer to the
use caulk on the wall channels at this time. manufacturer’s instructions for calculating the header
dimensions. For the doors seen here, the header dimension is
the distance between the walls minus 1⁄16". Measure the header
and carefully cut it to length using a hacksaw and a miter box.
Slide the header down on top of the wall channels until seated.
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9 10
Mount the rollers in the roller mounting holes. To begin, Carefully lift the inner panel by the sides and place the
use the second from the top roller mounting holes. Follow the rollers on the inner roller track. Roll the door toward the
manufacturer’s instructions for spacer or washer placement shower end of the tub. The edge of the panel should touch
and direction. both rubber bumpers. If it doesn’t, remove the door and move
the rollers to different holes. Drive the screws by hand to
prevent overtightening.
11 12
Lift the outer panel by the sides with the towel bar facing Apply a bead of silicone sealant to the inside seam of
out from the tub. Place the outer rollers over the outer roller the wall and wall channel at both ends and to the U‑shaped
track. Slide the door to the end opposite the shower end of the joint of the track and wall channels. Smooth the sealant with a
tub. If the door does not contact both bumpers, remove the fingertip dipped in water.
door and move the rollers to different mounting holes.
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Air-Jet Tubs Tools & Materials ▸
Plumbing tools Drain‑waste‑
A jetted spa is basically a bathtub that recirculates & supplies overflow assembly
water, air, or a combination of the two to create Utility knife Shims
an effect known as hydromassage. Hydromassage 4‑foot level 1 × 4 lumber
increases blood flow, relieves pressure on joints and Square‑edge trowel Deck screws
muscles, and relieves tension. Indoor hydromassage Drill or power driver Roofing nails
tubs usually have a water pump that blows a mixture Channel‑type pliers Plumber’s putty
of air and water through jets located in the tub body. Hacksaw Dry‑set mortar
Many include an integral water heater. Level Trowel
The product you’ll see installed on these pages Circular saw Silicone caulk
is a bit different. It is an air‑jet tub: a relatively new Screwdriver Jetted tub
entry in the jetted spa market that circulates only Adjustable wrench Faucet set
warm air, not water. This technology makes it safe to
use bath oils, bubble bath, and bath salts in the spa.
A model with no heater requires only a single 120‑volt
dedicated circuit. Models with heaters normally nailing flange) in a 3‑wall alcove. This may require the
require either multiple dedicated 120‑volt circuits construction of a new stub wall, like the short wall we
or a 240‑volt circuit. plumbed as the wet wall for this installation. Unless you
Like normal bathtubs, jetted tubs can be installed have a lot of wiring and plumbing experience, consider
in a variety of ways. Here, we install a drop‑in tub (no hiring professionals for all or parts of the project.
Air-jet tubs create massaging action, stirring the water with warm air. Air‑jets eliminate concerns about stagnant water and
bacteria that can remain in the pipes of whirlpool tubs.
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Whirlpools ▸
Installing a whirlpool is very similar to installing a bathtub, Select your faucet to match the trim kit that comes with
once the rough‑in is completed. Completing a rough‑in your whirlpool. When selecting a faucet, make sure
for a whirlpool requires that you install a separate the spout is large enough to reach over the tub rim.
GFCI‑protected electrical circuit for the pump motor. Some Most whirlpools use “widespread” faucets because the
building codes specify that a licensed electrician be hired handles and spout are separate, and can be positioned
to wire whirlpools; check with your local building inspector. however you like, even on opposite sides of the tub. Most
Select your whirlpool before you do rough‑in work, building centers carry flex tube in a variety of lengths for
because exact requirements will differ from model to model. connecting the faucet handles and spout.
Air volume
controls
Jets
On/off
switch
Overflow
pipe
Jets Drain T
Circulating pipes
Pump
A whirlpool circulates aerated water through jets mounted in the body of the tub. Whirlpool pumps move as much
as 50 gallons of water per minute to create a relaxing hydromassage effect. The pump, pipes, jets, and most of the
controls are installed at the factory, making the actual hookup in your home quite simple.
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■ How to Install a Jetted Tub
1 2
1×4
cross brace
Prepare the site for the installation. Remove wall coverings Make framing improvements such as adding 1 × 4 bracing
in the installation area to expose bare studs. Provide a dedicated at supply risers and the faucet body location. For drop‑in tubs
electrical circuit or circuits to the tub area according to the that do not have nailing flanges, you may need to add short
specifications in your installation manual (hire an electrician if stub walls to provide a stable resting point. Here, a short stub
you are not comfortable with wiring). This model plugs into a wall was installed at one end to serve as the tub wet wall.
GFCI‑protected receptacle on a dedicated 120‑volt, 20‑amp circuit.
Requirements for Making Electrical Hookups ▸
5 ft. min.
GFCI circuit breaker
Grounding wire
Dedicated
20-amp circuit
The electrical service for a whirlpool should be a dedicated 115‑ to 120‑volt, A GFCI circuit breaker at the
20‑amp circuit. The pump motor should be grounded separately, normally to a main service panel is required
metal cold water supply pipe. Most whirlpool motors are wired with 12/2 NM with whirlpool installations. Hire an
cable, but some local codes require the use of conduit. Remote timer switches electrician to connect new circuits
(inset), located at least 5 ft. from the tub, are required by some codes, even for a at your service panel if you are
tub with a built‑in timer. uncomfortable installing circuit
cables on your own.
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3 4
Floor leveler compound
Cut the drain tailpiece to length depending on the Prepare the floor or subfloor. Check with a level and fill any
distance you’ll need to span to the trap. Use a hacksaw or dips with floor leveling compound or mortar. If there is a joint
tubing cutter to make the cut. in the subfloor in the installation area, make sure the sides are
level. (The floor has to be level in order to support the weight
of the tub, the water, and bathers.) Also make sure there is no
rot or weakness in the structural elements.
5 6
Test the tub fit. First, cut a piece of the shipping carton to Set a 4-ft. level across the rim of the tub and check it for
fit inside the tub and protect its surface. Have someone help level. If it is not level, place shims under the tub until it is.
you slide the tub into the installation area, flush against the
wall studs, so you can check the fit. Tip: Lay a pair of 1 × 4s
perpendicular to the tub opening and use them as skids to
make it easier to slide the tub in. Remove the skids and lower
the tub on the floor.
(continued)
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7 8
Mark the top of the tub’s rim or nailing flange at each stud Add support frames or ledgers as directed by the
as a reference for installing additional supports or ledgers. manufacturer and secure them in the installation area so the
Remove the tub from the alcove. top of the tub or nailing flange will be at the height you scribed
in Step 7.
9 10
Assemble the drain-waste-overflow kit to fit the drain and Fasten the threaded parts of the drain assembly. A ring of
overflow openings, following the tub manufacturer’s directions. plumber’s putty between the drain coverplate and the tub will
Install the DWO kit (it is virtually impossible to attach it once help create a good seal. If you will be installing a pop‑up drain,
the tub is in place). install it now as well.
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11 12
Attach the overflow coverplate so it conceals the overflow Begin the actual installation. For some tubs, it is
opening. Adjust the pop‑up drain plug linkage as directed by recommended that you trowel a layer of thinset mortar in the
the manufacturer. installation area. But read your instructions carefully. Many tubs
feature integral feet that are meant to rest directly on the floor.
13 14
Slide the tub back into the opening. Remove the skids, if Provide support for the tub on the open side if it does not
you are using them. Press down evenly on the tub rims until have a structural skirt. Here, a 2 × 4 stub wall is built to the
they make solid contact with the ledgers or frames. exact height of the underside of the rim and then attached in
place. Screw it to both end walls and to the floor.
(continued)
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Drain Hookups ▸ 15
Overflow pipe
T-fitting
Branch drain
Tailpiece
Slip nut
P-trap
Cutaway view
Make the plumbing drain connections before you
proceed further. To connect the drain tailpiece to the Cover the gaps in the wallcoverings around the tub. Here,
trap you will need access either from below or from cementboard is installed in preparation for a tile backsplash. If
an access panel. The photo above shows a typical tub your tub has nailing flanges, attach strips of metal flashing to
drain configuration seen cutaway through the floor. the wall so they extend down to within about 1⁄4" of the tub rim.
If your tub has a removable apron, install it.
16 17
Make wiring connections according to the tub Test the operation of the jetted spa before you finish the
manufacturer’s instructions. The requirements vary greatly walls or deck in case there is a hidden problem. Fill it with a
among jetted spas. Some municipalities may require that a hose if you have not installed the faucet (the faucet normally is
licensed professional do this work. Here, the airflow regulator installed after the wall surfaces, unless you are deck‑mounting
is being wired. Note that most codes have a safety requirement the faucet on the tub rim). Run the spa. If it works, go ahead
that the on/off switch must be located so it cannot be reached and drain the water.
by a bather in the tub.
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18 19
Finish the wall surfaces. Here, a tile surround and Hook up the faucet to the water supply plumbing according
backsplash is being installed over the cementboard backer. to the manufacturer’s directions (or have your plumber do
The wallcovering at the front of the wet wall is installed so it the job). Remove the aerator from the tip of the spout and run
is easy to remove for plumbing access. water through it to clear out any debris. Attach the aerator, fill
the tub, and have yourself a nice, relaxing soak.
Optional Accessories ▸
Air volume Water jet
controls
Overflow coverplate
Mood light Overflow coverplate
Drain Grab
cover bar
Mood lights are sold as factory‑installed accessories by many manufacturers. Trim kits for whirlpools are
Most are available with several filters to let you adjust the color to suit your ordered at the time of purchase.
mood. Mood lights are low‑voltage fixtures wired through 12‑volt transformers. Available in a variety of finishes, all
Do not wire mood lights or other accessories into the electrical circuit that of the trim pieces except the grab
supplies the pump motor. bar and overflow coverplate are
normally installed at the factory.
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Tub & Shower Fittings
I n many situations, replacing a bathtub spout can
be almost as easy as hooking up a garden hose to
an outdoor spigot. There are some situations where
Tub spouts can be relatively complicated
plumbing fittings, often performing three or four
important functions. The spout itself is simple
it is a bit more difficult, but still pretty simple. The enough, since its only function is to deliver bathwater
only time it’s a real problem is when the spout is to the tub. But the diverter network and pop‑up drain
attached to a plain copper supply nipple, rather than contain multiple moving parts that require precise
a threaded nipple. You’ll know this is the case if the adjustment and occasional repair or replacement
spout has a setscrew on the underside where it meets (see photo, next page). The diverter is basically
the wall. Many bathtub spouts are sold in kits with a stop valve that’s activated by a lever or knob to
a matching showerhead and handle or handles. But block flow of water from the spout, forcing it up to a
for a simple one‑for‑one replacement, spouts are sold showerhead or out through a handheld showerhead,
separately. You just need to make sure the new spout as seen here.
is compatible with the existing nipple (see page 121).
Diverter lever
Gate diverter
In many bathtub/shower plumbing systems, the spout has the important job of housing the diverter—a gate inside the spout
that is operated by a lever with a knob. An open gate allows water to come out of the spout when the faucet is turned on. When
the diverter is pulled shut, the water is redirected up a riser pipe and to the showerhead. Failure of the diverter is one of the most
common reasons for replacing a spout.
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■ Tub & Shower Combination Faucets
Showerhead Showerhead Showerhead
Diverter valve
Cold
water
supply
line
Cold Cold
water water
supply supply
line line Gate
Gate diverter
diverter
Tub spout Tub spout Tub spout
Hot water Hot water Hot water
supply line supply line supply line
Three-handle faucet has valves that are Two-handle faucet has valves that are Single-handle faucet has valves that
either compression or cartridge design. either compression or cartridge design. are cartridge, ball‑type, or disc design.
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■ How to Install a Slip-Fit Spout
1 2
Slip fitting: Check underneath the tub spout to look for an Clean the copper nipple with steel wool. If you find any
access slot or cutout, which indicates the spout is a slip‑fit sharp edges where the nipple was cut, smooth them out with
style that is held in place with a setscrew and mounted on emery paper. Then, insert the O‑ring that comes with the spout
a copper supply nipple. Loosen the screw with a hex (Allen) onto the nipple (see the manufacturer’s instructions) and slide
wrench. Pull off the spout. the spout body over the nipple in an upside‑down position.
3 4
With the spout upside down for ease of access, tighten the Spin the spout so it’s right‑side‑up, then tighten the setscrew
setscrews on the clamp, working through the access slot or from below, making sure the wall end of the spout is flush
cutout, until you feel resistance. against the wall. Do not overtighten the setscrew.
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■ How to Install a Threaded Spout
1
If you see no setscrew or slot on the underside of the Option: Grip the spout with a padded pipe wrench or
spout, it is attached to a threaded nipple. Unscrew the tub channel‑type pliers. Buy a compatible replacement spout at
spout by inserting a heavy‑duty flat screwdriver into the spout a home center or hardware store.
opening and spinning it counterclockwise.
2 3
Copper nipple with
threaded adapter
Wrap several courses of Teflon tape clockwise onto Twist the new spout onto the nipple until it is flush
the pipe threads of the nipple. Using extra Teflon tape on the against the wall and the spout is oriented properly. If the spout
threads creates resistance if the spout tip points past six falls short of six o’clock, you may protect the finish of the
o’clock when tight. spout with tape and twist it a little beyond hand tight with your
channel‑type pliers—but don’t overdo it; the fitting can crack.
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Adding a Shower to a Bathtub
Y our dream bath remodel may include adding
a shower to your old built‑in bathtub—finally
you will be able to enjoy the ease of waking up and
hopping into a steamy shower. All you need to do is
remove the spout and replace it with one equipped
with an adapter hose outlet to which you can screw
a flexible shower hose. Then you need to install a
mounting bracket so you can hang the showerhead
and free your hands. Add a telescoping shower curtain
rod and a shower curtain and your new shower stall is
ready for duty.
A
3
⁄ 4" × 3"
B
1
⁄ 2" × 3"
C
Converting a plain bathtub into a tub/shower is a
relatively easy task when you use a flexible shower adapter
that fits onto a special replacement tub spout.
3
⁄ 4" × 1 1⁄ 2”
The appearance of the spout gives good clues as to which Tools & Materials ▸
kind of nipple it is connected to. A) A spout with no diverter
is probably connected to a 3"‑long threaded nipple. To install
a diverter spout you’ll need to replace the 3" threaded nipple Pipe wrench Brass nipple
with a shorter threaded nipple that sticks out no more than Drill Spout with diverter
1
⁄2" from the wall—not too big of a job. B) If the spout has Glass and tile outlet
a small setscrew in a slot on the underside, it is probably drill bit Hand‑held
attached with a slip fitting to a 1⁄2" copper supply nipple. Measuring tape mountable
Unless you are able to solder a new transition fitting onto the
old pipe after cutting it, call a plumber to install the new spout
Screwdriver showerhead
here. C) Spouts with outlets for shower adapters require a Marker with flexible hose
short threaded nipple (or comparable union) that sticks out Teflon tape Mounting hardware
from the wall no more than 3⁄4".
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1 2 3
Make sure the old spout is not held If you have a long iron or brass Wrap six layers of Teflon tape
in place with a setscrew (see previous nipple like this, you need to replace clockwise on the nipple and thread
page) and then remove it by wrapping it it with a short one. Threaded nipples into the wall. Thread the reducing
with a cloth and turning the spout with have threads at each end, so you can bushing onto the nipple. Thread the
channel‑type pliers or a pipe wrench. usually unscrew the old ones. Mark adapter spout on. Tighten farther with
the nipple at the face of the wall and a screwdriver or dowel to orient the
write “front” on your side. Unscrew it spout correctly.
counterclockwise with a pipe wrench.
Get a threaded brass nipple of the same
diameter that is about half an inch
longer than the distance from the back
of your old nipple to your line.
4 5 6
Attach a flexible shower hose to Determine the location of the Mark hole locations. Use a
the adapter hose outlet. Tighten with an showerhead bracket. Use the hose glass‑and‑tile drill bit for your electric
adjustable wrench. length as a guide, and make sure drill in the size recommended by the
the showerhead can be lifted off the shower bracket manufacturer. Put on eye
bracket with ease. protection and drill holes in the ceramic
tile on your marks. Insert anchors into the
holes and tap in place with a wooden or
rubber mallet. Fasten the showerhead
holder to the wall using a Phillips
screwdriver and the mounting screws.
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Dual Showerheads
W hat’s more luxurious than a hot shower? Two hot
showers at one time. That’s what you get with
a dual‑head, multifunction shower such as the one
shown in this project. Multiple showerheads let you
aim the pulsing action at your neck and shoulders,
your chest and legs, your hair and torso—you decide
where you need it most.
Although some multifunction showerheads
require elaborate and painstaking installation, others,
such as the one shown here, take less than an hour,
start to finish. This showerhead produces a lot of
enjoyment in return for a reasonable investment of
time and money.
At a flow of 2.5 gallons per minute, this showerhead
won’t overwhelm a water heater, either. Unless you and
your family members take longer showers to extend your
enjoyment of its pleasures, it shouldn’t radically increase
your water usage or your utility bills.
Tools & Materials ▸
Pipe wrench Stiff bristle brush
Dual‑head Teflon tape
multifunction Soft rag or cloth Gentle streams, invigorating massage, soothing pulses—
they’re all available at the touch of a finger after you replace
showerhead Electrical tape a standard showerhead with a two‑head model.
■ How to Replace a Showerhead with a Multi-head fitting
1 2
Place electrical tape on the jaws of a pipe wrench to Grasp the end of the existing showerhead. Using a pipe
protect the metal showerhead parts from the teeth of the wrench, turn the collar nut counterclockwise to remove the
pipe wrench. showerhead. Leave the shower arm and flange in place.
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3 4 5
Carefully clean the threads at the Make sure the pre‑installed rubber Wrap Teflon tape clockwise around
end of the shower arm with a stiff bristle washers are in place inside each the shower arm threads, making three
metal brush. Be careful not to damage showerhead as well as the shower or four loops of tape. Thread the shower
the threads. Run the water for a few arm’s swivel nut. arm extension from the new, dual‑head
seconds to flush debris from the arm. showerhead onto the shower arm,
turning clockwise. Hand‑tighten firmly.
6 7 8
Wrap three or four loops of Teflon Install one showerhead on each end Adjust and rotate the showerheads
tape clockwise around the threads at of the arm, hand tightening them by as desired. Turn on the water and check
each end of the shower arm extension. turning clockwise. Wrap several courses for leaks. Gently tighten if necessary.
of electrician’s tape around the pipe
wrench jaws and gently tighten the
showerhead nut. Do not overtighten.
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Slide-bar Showerheads
T he slide‑bar showerhead is an attractive and
practical shower addition for any bathroom. It
combines the flexibility of a handheld sprayer with
Tools & Materials ▸
a sliding mounted showerhead. This convenient Pipe wrench 1
⁄2"‑diameter
height adjustability makes it perfect for all family
3
⁄16" masonry drill bit × 11⁄2"‑long
members, including children or disabled users who
1
⁄2" masonry drill bit galvanized nipple
must sit to shower. The model shown uses a slide‑lock Screwdriver Teflon tape
mechanism that allows you to easily set the sprayer Level Chrome
height anywhere along the 2‑foot span of the bar. Nailset supply elbow
Slide‑bar showerheads are generally sold as a kit Hammer Wall anchors
that includes the bar, sprayer, hose, and mounting Drill or toggle bolts
hardware. Many basic kits contain only a simple Caulk gun 1
⁄4"‑20 stainless steel
coupling that attaches the hose to the end of the shower Slide‑bar machine bolt
arm. For a cleaner look, purchase a matching supply showerhead kit Silicone caulk
elbow that attaches to the pipe stub at the wall via a
galvanized nipple connector, as shown in this project.
A slide-bar showerhead allows you
to set the spray at varying heights,
which makes it a perfect choice for the
family bathroom.
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■ How to Install a Slide-bar Showerhead
1 2 3
4" to 6"
Supply from supply
elbow
48"
from base
Remove the existing showerhead. Attach a mounting bracket to each Drill holes in the tile using a masonry
Wrap the threads of a galvanized nipple end of the slide‑bar. Place the bar 4" to bit. If you hit a stud, attach the slide‑bar
with Teflon tape and thread it into the 6" to the side of the wall supply elbow to the wall, using the screws and wall
stub‑out, leaving about 9⁄16" of the nipple to avoid the water pipes. Locate the anchors provided with the kit.
protruding from the wall. Thread the lower end of the bar about 48" from the
supply elbow onto the nipple. Cover the bottom of the tub or shower. Use a level
elbow with a soft cloth and tighten it to make sure the bar is plumb, then
with a pipe wrench. mark the location of the mounting holes.
Anchoring to the Wall ▸ 4
Snap toggle
Collar
Stainless steel
machine bolt
If you don’t hit a stud, enlarge the hole, using a 1⁄2"
masonry bit, then insert a toggle anchor (inset) into
the hole. Slide the collar forward to hold the toggle
against the back of the wall, then snap off the plastic Slide the decorative end caps onto the mounting brackets.
straps. Attach the slide‑bar to the wall with 1⁄4"‑20 Thread the shower hose onto the wall supply elbow. Clip the
stainless steel machine bolts. showerhead into the slide‑lock mechanism. Apply silicone
caulk around the supply elbow and mounting brackets.
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Sinks & Vanities
W hen discussing bathroom sinks (lavatories) and
vanities, it is sometimes difficult to decide if the
conversation is about cabinetry or plumbing. In some
cases, such as installing a traditional vanity cabinet,
you’ll definitely need to do work in both areas. But for
other sink types, such as a wall-hung lavatory, the job
is mostly about plumbing.
Wood vanity cabinets with integral sinks have
been established as the standard in residential
bathrooms, but changing design standards have given
rise to newer, more modern-looking options. Wall-
hung vanities are one new choice. And instead of an
integral cultured marble top, they are often fitted
with gleaming glass countertops and intriguing vessel
sinks—sometimes with a high-end wall-mounted
faucet and spout. Drop-in sinks and pedestal sinks are
familiar options that continue to enjoy popularity.
If you have some experience with carpentry,
consider building your own custom vanity cabinet. In
this chapter we’ve included plans for a contemporary
cabinet that’s designed to support a very modern
double-bowl bathroom countertop.
In this chapter:
• Pedestal & Console Sinks
• Wall-Hung Vanities
• Vessel Sinks
• Traditional Vanity
• Custom Double Vanity Cabinet
• Double-Bowl Vanity
• Lavatory Faucets
• Wall-Mount Faucets
• Lavatory Drains
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Pedestal & Console Sinks
P edestal and console sinks move in and out of
popularity more frequently than other types, but
even during the times that they aren’t particularly
Pedestal sinks are mounted in one of two ways.
Most inexpensive models are hung in much the same
way as wall-mounted sinks. The pedestal is actually
trendy they still find a place in many remodels installed after the sink is hung and its purpose is
because of their classic and adaptable styling. You’ll purely decorative. But other, higher-end pedestal
find them most frequently in small half baths or sinks have structural pedestals that bear the weight
powder rooms, where their modest footprints make of the sink. All console sinks are mounted to the wall,
them space-efficient options. Designers are also although the front legs offer additional support and
increasingly using these styles as his-and-her sinks for resistance to users leaning on the front of the sink.
bathrooms in which the sinks are meant to visually
dominate the design.
The primary drawback to pedestal sinks is that Tools & Materials ▸
they don’t offer any storage. Their chief practical
benefit is that they conceal plumbing some Pedestal sink Basin wrench
homeowners would prefer to keep out of sight. 2 × 4 lumber Silicone caulk
Console sinks (see page 142), with their two front legs Water-resistant Lag screws
and modest apron, offer some space underneath for drywall Studfinder
rolling shelf units or a towel basket. Ratchet wrench
A console bathroom sink is a wall-mounted lavatory with A pedestal sink typically is hung on the wall. The primary
two front legs that provide back-up support. Many have a function of the pedestal is to conceal plumbing and provide
narrow apron to conceal the drain trap. visual appeal.
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■ How to Install a Pedestal Sink
1 2
Wall surface
shown cut away
for clarity
Install 2 × 4 blocking between the wall studs, Set the basin and pedestal in position and brace it with
behind the planned sink location. Cover the wall with 2 × 4s. Outline the top of the basin on the wall, and mark the
water-resistant drywall. base of the pedestal on the floor. Mark reference points on the
wall and floor through the mounting holes found on the back
of the sink and the bottom of the pedestal.
3 4 5
Set aside the basin and pedestal. Attach the faucet, then set the sink Hook up the drain and supply fittings.
Drill pilot holes in the wall and floor at on the pedestal. Align the holes in the Caulk between the back of the sink and
the reference points, then reposition back of the sink with the pilot holes the wall when installation is finished.
the pedestal. Anchor the pedestal to the drilled in the wall, then drive lag screws
floor with lag screws. and washers into the wall brace using
a ratchet wrench. Do not overtighten
the screws.
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Wall‑Hung Vanities
T hink of a wall-mounted sink or vanity cabinet
and you’re likely to conjure up images of public
restrooms, where these conveniences are installed to
Tools & Materials ▸
improve access for floor cleaning. However, wall-hung Studfinder Pencil
Drill Vanity
sinks and vanities made for home use are very different
Level
from the commercial installations. Often boasting high
design, beautiful modern vanities and sinks come in a
variety of styles and materials, including wood, metal, standard vanities, just without legs. Install wall-hung
and glass. Some attach with decorative wall brackets sinks and vanities by attaching them securely to studs
that are part of the presentation; others look like or wood blocking.
Today’s wall-hung sinks are stylish and
attractive, but they require mounting into
studs or added blocking to keep them secure.
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■ How to Install a Wall-hung Vanity Base
1 2
Remove the existing sink or fixture (pages 58 to 61) and Hold the sink or cabinet in the installation area and check
inspect the wall framing. Also determine if plumbing supply to see if the studs align with the sink or sink bracket mounting
and waste lines will need to be moved to accommodate the holes. If they do, skip to Step 3. If the studs do not align, remove
dimensions of the new fixture. Locate the studs in the sink the wallboard behind the mounting area. Install 2 × 6 blocking
location with a stud finder. between studs at the locations of the mounting screws.
Replace and repair wallboard.
3 4
Blocking
Mark the locations of the mounting holes on the wall using Drill pilot holes at the marks. Have a helper hold the vanity in
a template or by supporting the sink or vanity against the wall place while you drive the mounting screws. Hook up the plumbing.
with a temporary brace (here, made from scrap 2 × 4s) and
marking through the mounting holes.
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Vessel Sinks
T he vessel sink harkens back to the days of
washstands and washbowls. Whether it’s round,
square, or oval, shallow or deep, the vessel sink offers
Tools & Materials ▸
great opportunity for creativity and proudly displays Pliers Pop-up drain
its style. Vessel sinks are a perfect choice for a powder Wrench P-trap and drain kit
room, where they will have high visibility. Vanity or countertop Faucet
Most vessel sinks can be installed on any flat Vessel sink
surface—from a granite countertop to a wall-mounted
vanity to an antique dresser. Some sinks are designed
to contact the mounting surface only at the drain accommodate the height of the vessel. To minimize
flange. Others are made to be partially embedded in splashing, spouts should direct flow to the center of
the surface. Take care to follow the manufacturer’s the vessel, not down the side. Make sure your faucet
instructions for cutting holes for sinks and faucets. is compatible with your vessel choice. Look for a
A beautiful vessel sink demands an equally centerset or single-handle model if you’ll be custom
attractive faucet. Select a tall spout mounted on the drilling the countertop—you only need to drill one
countertop or vanity top or a wall-mounted spout to faucet hole.
Vessel sinks are available in countless styles and materials, shapes and sizes. Their one commonality is that they all need to be
installed on a flat surface.
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■ Vessel Sink Options
This glass vessel sink embedded in a “floating” glass The natural stone vessel sink blends elegantly into the
countertop is a stunning contrast to the strong and attractive stone countertop and is enhanced by the sleek faucet and
wood frame anchoring it to the wall. round mirror.
The stone vessel sink is complemented by the wall-hung Vitreous china with a glazed enamel finish is an economical
faucet. The rich wood vanity on which it’s perched adds and durable choice for a vessel sink (although it is less durable
warmth to the room. than stone). Because of the flexibility of both the material
and the glaze, the design options are virtually unlimited with
vitreous china.
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■ How to Install a Vessel Sink
1 2
Mounting
stud
Inlet hoses
Secure the vanity cabinet or other countertop that you’ll be Begin hooking up the faucet. Insert the brass mounting
using to mount the vessel sink. stud into the threaded hole in the faucet base with the
slotted end facing out. Hand tighten, and then use a slotted
screwdriver to tighten another half turn. Insert the inlet hoses
into the faucet body and hand tighten. Use an adjustable
wrench to tighten another half turn. Do not overtighten.
3 4
Stud O‑ring
Riser ring
Metal plate
Stud nut Gasket
Place the riser ring on top of the O-ring over the faucet To install the sink and pop-up drain, first place the
cutout in the countertop. From underneath, slide the rubber small metal ring between two O-rings and place over the
gasket and the metal plate over the mounting stud. Thread the drain cutout.
mounting stud nut onto the mounting stud and hand tighten.
Use an adjustable wrench to tighten another half turn.
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5 6
Place the vessel bowl on top of the O-rings. In this Put the small rubber gasket over the drain hole in the
installation, the vessel is not bonded to the countertop. vessel. From the top, push the pop-up assembly through the
drain hole.
7 8
Slip nut
Gasket
Tailpiece
Drain arm
Mounting nut
Escutcheon
Drum
From underneath, push the large rubber gasket onto the Install the drum trap. Loosen the rings on the top and
threaded portion of the pop-up assembly. Thread the nut onto outlet of the drum trap. Slide the drum trap top hole over the
the pop-up assembly and tighten. Use an adjustable wrench tailpiece. Slide the drain arm into the side outlet, with the flat
or basin wrench to tighten an additional half turn. Thread the side of the rubber gasket facing away from the trap. Insert the
tailpiece onto the pop-up assembly. drain arm into the wall outlet. Hand tighten the rings.
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Traditional Vanity
M ost bathroom countertops installed today are
integral (one-piece) sink/countertop units
made from cultured marble or other solid materials,
like solid surfacing. Integral sink/countertops are
convenient, and many are inexpensive, but style and
color options are limited.
Some remodelers and designers still prefer the
distinctive look of a custom-built countertop with
a self-rimming sink basin, which gives you a much
greater selection of styles and colors. Installing a
self-rimming sink is very simple.
Tools & Materials ▸
Pencil Lag screws
Carpenter’s level Tub & tile caulk
Screwdriver Studfinder
Basin wrench 4-ft. level
Cardboard Shims Integral sink/countertops are made in standard sizes to fit
Masking tape 3" drywall screws common vanity widths. Because the sink and countertop are
Plumber’s putty Drill cast from the same material, integral sink/countertops do not
leak, and do not require extensive caulking and sealing.
■ How to Install a Vanity Cabinet
1 2
Measure and mark the top edge of the vanity cabinet Slide the vanity into position so that the back rail of the
on the wall, then use a 4-ft. level to mark a level line at the cabinet can later be fastened to studs at both corners and in
cabinet height mark. Use an electronic stud finder to locate the the center. The back of the cabinet should also be flush against
framing members, then mark the stud locations along the line. the wall. (If the wall surface is uneven, position the vanity so it
contacts the wall in at least one spot, and the back cabinet rail
is parallel with the wall.)
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3
Using a 4-ft. level as a guide, shim Variation: To install two or more cabinets, set the cabinets in position against the
below the vanity cabinet until the unit wall, and align the cabinet fronts. If one cabinet is higher than the other, shim under
is level. the lower cabinet until the two are even. Clamp the cabinet faces together, then drill
countersunk pilot holes spaced 12" apart through the face frames so they go at least
halfway into the face frame of the second cabinet. Drive wood screws through the
pilot holes to join the cabinets together.
4 5
At the stud locations marked on the wall, drive 3" Run a bead of caulk along small gaps between the vanity
drywall screws through the rail on the cabinet back and into and wall, and between the vanity and floor. For larger gaps, use
the framing members. The screws should be driven at both quarter-round molding between the vanity and wall. Between
corners and in the center of the back rail. the vanity and floor, install the same baseboard material used
to cover the gap between the wall and floor.
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■ How to Install an Integral Vanity Countertop
1 2
Sealing
gasket
Pop‑up Locknut
drain lever
Drain
tailpiece
Drain flange
Tailpiece
extension
Set the sink/countertop unit onto sawhorses. Attach the Thread the locknut and sealing gasket onto the drain tailpiece,
faucet and slip the drain lever through the faucet body. Place a then insert the tailpiece into the drain opening and screw it onto
ring of plumber’s putty around the drain flange, then insert the the drain flange. Tighten the locknut securely. Attach the tailpiece
flange in the drain opening. extension. Insert the pop-up stopper linkage.
3 4
Apply a layer of tub & tile caulk (or adhesive, if specified by Center the sink/countertop unit over the vanity, so the
the countertop manufacturer) to the top edges of the cabinet overhang is equal on both sides and the backsplash of the
vanity, and to any corner braces. countertop is flush with the wall. Press the countertop evenly
into the caulk.
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5 6 Supply tube
Drain
tailpiece
Drain
arm
Drain
stub‑out
Slip nuts
P‑trap
Cabinets with corner braces: Secure the countertop to Attach the drain arm to the drain stub-out in the wall using
the cabinet by driving a mounting screw through each corner a slip nut. Attach one end of the P-trap to the drain arm, and
brace and up into the countertop. Note: Cultured marble the other to the tailpiece of the sink drain, using slip nuts.
and other hard countertops require predrilling and a plastic Connect supply tubes to the faucet tailpieces. Seal the gap
screw sleeve. between the backsplash and the wall with tub and tile caulk.
■ Variation: Drop-In Sinks
An inexpensive alternative to an integral vanity countertop is Install the drop-in sink. Some sinks rely mostly on their own
to build your own countertop from postform laminate or another weight to stay put, requiring only a bead of plumbers putty for
kitchen-style countertop material. Be sure to add buildup strips setting the sink flange. Lighter sinks are held in place with clips
and caps to the exposed ends. Position the countertop on your from below. It’s usually recommended that you attach your faucet
vanity cabinet and trace a cutout for the drop-in lavatory. to the sink before installing it, and then make your hookups.
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Custom Double Vanity Cabinet
Y ou can purchase vanity tops with a matching stock
vanity cabinet, or you can put your own design
stamp on the bathroom by building a custom vanity
look of the finished cabinet is contemporary and clean,
making it suitable to a wide range of bathroom decors.
The unit is wall mounted, but two legs at the front of the
cabinet. Crafting a your own vanity cabinet is a great cabinet provide stability and create the appearance of a
way to seamlessly integrate the unit into the overall standalone piece of furniture.
bathroom design, especially when you haven’t been All panels are cut with the grain running
able to find the cabinet of dreams at retail. horizontally. The doors offer easy access to the
The custom double vanity cabinet in this project was abundant storage space inside the cabinet, and the
designed to support the double-bowl vanity shown on bottom drawer is operable while the top is a false
page 158. The cabinet is built with 1⁄2", 9-ply Baltic birch front. The project requires moderate woodworking
plywood and solid birch framing. This particular plywood skills and an precise measurements. But with a little
is a favorite of cabinetmakers because of its beautiful effort, you’ll wind up with gorgeous vanity cabinetry
grain structure and appealing edge appearance. The that is uniquely your own.
This custom-made cabinet is built using Baltic Birch plywood for a clean, contemporary feel. Because it is wall-hung it feels
open and light, but the front legs guarantee that it is stable.
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tools & Materials & Cutting list ▸
Circular saw KEy NO. PARt sizE MAtERiAl
Router A 2 Door 1
⁄2 × 23 ⁄4 × 19"
3
Baltic birch
Drill B 2 Drawer fronts 1
⁄2 × 12 × 9 ⁄4"
3
Baltic birch
Door pulls C 2 End Panels 1
⁄2 × 12 × 20" Baltic birch
Pocket jig
D 1 Bottom panel 1
⁄2 × 19 × 59" Baltic birch
Door pulls
2" flathead wood E 2 Top frame rail 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄2 × 59"
1
Birch
screws F 3 Top frame stile 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄2 × 18"
1
Birch
3
⁄8" × 31⁄2" lag screws G 2 Cabinet divider 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄2 × 18 ⁄4"
1 3
Birch
with washers H 1 Back spreader 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄2 × 58 ⁄2"
1 1
Birch
1
⁄2" Baltic birch
i 1 Wall cleat 1 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 59"
1 1
2×4
plywood
1
⁄2" plywood J 1 Drawer bottom 1
⁄2 × 11 × 18" Plywood
Self-closing cup K 2 Drawer end 1
⁄2 × 11 × 6" Plywood
hinges l 2 Drawer side 1
⁄2 × 17 × 6" Plywood
2 self-leveling 10"
furniture legs HARDWARE
Bottom-mount drawer
4 Self closing cup hinges for 1⁄2" stock
slide
2×4 Bottom mount drawer slide (16")
11⁄2" finish nails 2 10" × 2" dia. brushed steel adjustable legs (item CM250 at www.tablelegsonline.com)
No. 8 × 3⁄4" panhead 4 Brushed steel door pulls
screws
E i
F
F
E
C
G G
C
H
A A
D
B K
l
B
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Baltic Birch ▸
Baltic birch is considered the premier
cabinetry plywood because of its
extremely attractive and consistent
surface patterns, and its uniform edge
appearance that can eliminate the
need for additional edge treatments
such as wood veneer tape. This type
of plywood features voidless plies, so
the layers have no visual gaps along
the edges. The facing takes stain well,
but most people choose to use a
clear finish such as polyurethane to
allow the beauty of the wood to come
through. If you’re determining the
measurements for your own vanity
cabinet, be aware that Baltic birch
plywood comes in 5 × 5' sheets, as
opposed to the standard 4 × 8' sheets.
■ How to Build a Custom Vanity Cabinet
1 2
Cut the pieces for the top frame from solid 1⁄2" birch—two Cut the side and bottom panels, and door and drawer
59" rails and three 18" stiles. Use a pocket jig to drill two fronts, from a single sheet of Baltic birch plywood. Use a
pocket holes at each end of the stiles, and then glue and screw circular saw equipped with a sharp, thin-kerf ripping blade.
them to the rails with pocket screws. Use a straightedge guide and saw the panels with the good
side facing down.
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3 4
Cut rabbets for the bottom panel in the bottom inside edges Assemble the cabinet case by gluing and clamping the end
of the both side panels. Use a router fitted with a 1⁄2" piloted panels to the bottom panel. Glue and clamp the top frame into
rabbeting bit, set to 1⁄4" depth. Sand as necessary to clean and position between the tops of the end panels. Screw the end
smooth the rabbets. panels into the top frame with two 2" woodscrews on either
side. Secure the bottom panel in place with finishing nails
through end panels into the bottom panel.
5 6
Cut and position solid birch dividers between the bottom Attach legs to the bottom of the cabinet case, inset
panel and top frame. Measure to ensure the dividers are in about 2" from front corners. Secure legs according to
correct position, check for level, then screw the bottom panel manufacturer’s directions. The 10" metal legs here were
and top frame to dividers. Add a central divider between the screwed onto a bolt projecting through a hole in the bottom
vertical dividers to create a visual backing for the gap between panel. The bolt is attached to a mounting plate screwed to the
the drawer fronts. bottom of the bottom panel.
(continued)
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7 8
Position cabinet in place, check for level, and measure from Position cabinet so that top frame rests on wall cleat. Check
the floor to the bottom edge of the top frame. Mark line and level and shim as necessary, then nail finish nails through end
screw 2 × 4 cleat to wall with 3 1⁄2" lag screws, keeping top of panels into ends of wall cleat. Adjust the front feet according
cleat aligned with mark. to manufacturer’s directions so that cabinet is level.
9 10
Cut spreader for rear of cabinet and place on top of bottom Cut sides, back, and bottom panels for the drawer box. Glue
panel, between two side panels. Nail spreader in place with and clamp pieces together, and edge nail pieces together with
finish nails, nailed through end panels into ends of spreader. brads to reinforce the drawer box. Attach slides to bottom of
drawer and bottom of cabinet in drawer opening.
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11 12
Sand edges of drawer and door fronts, working from about Mount the cabinet doors using adjustable cup hinges. Check
100 grit down to 180 grit. Note: If you aren’t satisfied with the that the doors are mounted square and plumb, adjusting the
look of the drawer and door edges, use filler before sanding hinges as necessary.
to ensure they are absolutely smooth, or cover the edges with
wood veneer tape prior to finishing the cabinet.
13 14
Clamp drawer front into place on divider. Drill pilot holes and Sink nailheads and cover exposed nail and screwheads
attach drawer front with four #8 × 3⁄4" panhead screws. Check with stainable wood putty. Sand putty smooth, then apply your
that drawer slides in an out freely. Screw 1 × cleats for top finish of choice. We finished the cabinet with a brush-on stain,
drawer (false) front onto inside faces of dividers. Screw through but use clear polyurethane if you prefer the natural look of the
cleats into back of drawer front to secure it in place. birch. Mark positions of drawer pulls, drill mounting holes, and
install pulls.
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Double‑Bowl Vanity Top
S ide-by-side double sinks are a wonderful addition
to bathrooms large enough to accommodate the
extra fixture. Often called “his-and-her” sinks, double
standalone sinks, such as pedestals or wall-mounted
models, require new supply and drains. But a double
sink vanity like the one shown here can be added
sinks can be indispensable in a busy bathroom simply by using dual-use hardware that splits the
serving a large household, or for a couple whose existing supply and drain lines.
schedules put them in the master bath at the same
time each day.
The first issue to consider in adding a double sink
is available space. You need to maintain the minimum
Tools & Materials ▸
required space around the sink, including 30 inches
of clear space in front of the sink (but no less than Carpenter’s leve1 Silicone caulk
21 inches) and 30 inches from the center of one sink Screwdrivers Dual outlet valves
to the center of the other. Any sink or vanity edge Drill Braided steel supply
should be at least 4 inches from a side wall, and Basin wrench lines
should not impede door swing. Stud finder P-trap
You’ll also want to decide how much plumbing Adjustable wrench PVC connections
modification you’re willing to do. Side-by-side Hacksaw Plumber’s putty
A double-bowl vanity is a useful fixture for allowing multiple users during rush hour in your bathroom. Most home centers stock
a couple of double-bowl options, but for best selection allow enough time for a custom order (usually 1 to 6 weeks). See pages 152
to 157 for instructions on how to build the custom vanity cabinet.
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■ Double Drains
Double-bowl vanities have drain plumbing that’s very similar to double-bowl kitchen sinks (except for the improbability that
you will have a garbage disposer in your lavatory drain lines). In most cases, the drain tailpieces are connected beneath one of the
tailpieces at a continuous waste T. The drainline from the second bowl must slope downward toward the T. From the T, the drain
should have a trap (usually a P-Trap) that connects to the trap arm coming out of the wall.
■ Drain in Floor
Waste-T Waste-T
Bottom
Top of S-trap Top of S-trap
Outlet
pipe
Floor drain stubout
Drain
If your drain stubout comes up out of the floor instead of Attach the other half of the S-trap to the stubout
the wall, you’ll need an S-trap to tie into it instead of a P-trap. with a slip fitting. This should result in the new fitting facing
Attach one half of the S-trap to the threaded bottom of the downward. Join the halves of the S-trap together with a slip
waste-T. nut, trimming the unthreaded end if necessary.
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■ How to Install a Double Sink and Vanity
1 2
Shut off the supply valves located under the sink. Disconnect Remove the existing countertop and vanity. Turn off house
and remove the supply lines connecting the faucet to the water supply at the main shut-off valve. Drain remaining water
valves. Loosen the P-trap nuts at both ends and remove the by opening the faucet at the lowest point in the house. Use a
P-trap. hacksaw to remove existing undersink shut-off valves.
3 4
Slide the new dual-outlet valve onto Secure the new vanity in place by screwing it to the wall. Lay a bead of caulk along
the hot water supply line, pass nut and the underside and back edge of the countertop, where it will contact the vanity and
compression washer over the pipe, and wall. Set the countertop in place and check it for level. If your sinks are not integral,
tighten with wrench. Install dual-outlet install them according to the type of sink you’re using.
valve on cold supply line in the same way.
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5 6 7
Seat the faucets for the double Connect a new PVC P-trap to the Connect the linkage for the pop-up
sinks as you would for a single sink, undersink drain pipe, and attach a drain stopper. Connect the braided
by applying a bead of putty on the T-connector to the trap. Extend PVC steel cold water supply lines to the
underside of the bases (unless they connections to the drain assemblies of appropriate faucet tailpieces. Once
are to be used with gaskets instead both sinks. the lines are secure, repeat for the
of putty). Secure them in place by hot water supply lines. Check that all
tightening the locking nuts on the connections are tightened securely.
underside of the faucets.
8 Leak Finder ▸
To quickly and easily find an undersink leak, lay bright
white paper or paper towels under the pipes and
drain connections. Open the water supply valves
Turn on the main water supply and then turn on the water
and run water in the sinks. It should be clear exactly
supply to the faucets. Remove the faucet aerators and
run water in the sinks to check the supply lines and drain where the water dripped from by the location of the
connections for leaks. Tighten the connections if you find any drip on the paper.
and replace the aerators.
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Lavatory Faucets
B athroom faucets come in four basic mounting
styles: centerset, single hole, wall mounted, and
widespread. The type you choose depends largely on
Single-body and centerset faucets are designed to fit
into standard hole configurations. Make sure you know
your sink’s dimensions before buying the faucet: the
the sink or faucet body you are using—the new faucet most important dimension is the hole spread: 4 inches
may need to match the existing fixture. But in any on center and 8 inches on center are common.
case, the range of designs available in all mounting
styles is astounding.
Widespread faucets have a clean, sophisticated
look. They come in three pieces instead of one: a hot Tools & Materials ▸
tap, a cold tap, and a spout. Each piece is mounted
separately in its own hole in the sink. The hot and Heatproof grease Adjustable wrench
cold taps (valves) are connected to the spout with Teflon tape Basin wrench
reinforced flexible hoses. If your lavatory doesn’t Measuring tape Channel-type pliers
have a predrilled flange, the great advantage to the Loctite Screwdriver
widespread configuration is that you gain flexibility Pipe joint compound Standing flashlight
in locating your spout and handles (probably a bigger Plumber’s putty Eye protection
advantage for tubs than for lavatories). Even models New 3-piece faucet
made for bathroom lavatories, like the one you see Supply lines
here, offer many creative configuration options.
Your lavatory faucet should echo or complement some aspects of your sink. These aspects can include the overall geometry
and shape, the style (traditional, contemporary, etc.), or the finish, for example.
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Basic Lavatory Faucet Types ▸
Widespread faucets allow you to customize the locations Single-body faucets are faster and easier to install and
and orientation of the faucets and spout in your sink deck. are extremely reliable.
Spout Pop‑up stopper lift rod
Index caps Spout
Handle screw
Handles Aerator
Handle
Aerator Tailpiece
Tailpiece
Spout
1
⁄ 2" coupling nuts
tailpiece
Lift rod
Faucet
valves
T‑fitting
Clevis
Flex tube
Pivot rod
Supply
risers
Supply
risers Stop valves
Widespread faucets come in three pieces, a spout
and two valves. Supply risers carry hot and cold water to The tailpieces of a standard deck-mounted, one-
the valves, which are turned to regulate the amount of piece bathroom sink faucet are 4" apart on center. As long
water going to the spout, where the water is mixed. Water as the two outside holes in the back of your sink measure
travels from the valves to the spout through flex tubes, 4" from center to center, and you have a middle hole for
which in turn attach to the spout tailpiece via a T-fitting. a pop-up stopper, you can put in any standard one-piece
Three-piece faucets designed to work with a pop-up bathroom faucet with a pop-up stopper. The faucet is
stopper have a clevis and a lift rod. The handles attach secured to the sink with mounting nuts that screw onto
with handle screws that are covered with index caps. the tailpieces from below. Also get two flexible stainless
An aerator is screwed on the faucet spout after debris is steel supply risers for sinks, long enough to replace the
flushed from the faucet. old tubes. These typically attach to the stop valves with 3⁄8"
compression-sized coupling nuts and to the faucet with
standard faucet coupling nuts. But take your old tubes and
the old compression nuts from the stop valves to the store
to ensure a match. The clevis, lift rod, and pivot rod are
parts of the pop-up stopper assembly. The handles attach
with handle screws that are covered with index caps.
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■ How to Install a Widespread Faucet
1 2
Spout shank
Spout shank
Sink deck
Plumber’s
putty
Retainer/
spacer
Mounting nut
Sink deck seen in
cutaway for clarity
Insert the shank of the faucet spout through one of the In addition to mounting nuts, many spout valves for
holes in the sink deck (usually the center hole but you can widespread faucets have an open retainer fitting that goes
offset it in one of the end holes if you prefer). If the faucet is not between the underside of the deck and the mounting nut.
equipped with seals or O-rings for the spout and handles, pack Others have only a mounting nut. In either case, tighten the
plumber’s putty on the undersides before inserting the valves mounting nut with pliers or a basin wrench to secure the spout
into the deck. Note: If you are installing the widespread faucet valve. You may need a helper to keep the spout centered and
in a new sink deck, drill three holes of the size suggested by the facing forward.
faucet manufacturer.
3 Helping hand 4
Temporary clip
Mounting ring
Plumber’s
putty
Valve
Valve
(cold supply)
Spout
shank
Mount the valves to the deck using whichever method the From below, thread the mounting nuts that secure the valves
manufacturer specifies (it varies quite a bit). In the model seen to the sink deck. Make sure the cold water valve (usually has
here, a mounting ring is positioned over the deck hole (with a blue cartridge inside) is in the right hole (from the front) and
plumber’s putty seal) and the valve is inserted from below. the hot water valve (red cartridge) is in the left hole. Install
A clip snaps onto the valve from above to hold it in place both valves.
temporarily (you’ll want a helper for this).
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5 6
Water
outlet Water outlet
(cold) (hot)
T‑fitting
Water inlet
(spout)
Once you’ve started the nut on the threaded valve shank, Attach the flexible supply tubes (supplied with the faucet)
secure the valve with a basin wrench squeezing the lugs to the water outlets on the valves. Some twist onto the outlets,
where the valve fits against the deck. Use an adjustable but others (like the ones above) click into place. The supply
wrench to finish tightening the lock nut onto the valve. The hoses meet in a T-fitting that is attached to the water inlet on
valves should be oriented so the water outlets are aimed at the spout.
the inlet on the spout shank.
7 8 Spout
Special hex wrench
(supplied with faucet)
Teflon Twist‑on
tape fitting
Water supply risers
Spout shank
Attach flexible braided metal supply risers to the water Attach the spout. The model shown here comes with a
stop valves and then attach the tubes to the inlet port on each special hex wrench that is threaded through the hole in the
valve (usually with Teflon tape and a twist-on fitting at the valve spout where the lift rod for the pop-up drain will be located.
end of the supply riser). Once the spout is seated cleanly on the spout shank you
tighten the hex wrench to secure the spout. Different faucets
will use other methods to secure the spout to the shank.
(continued)
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9 Lift rod
10
Lift rod
Clevis screw
Clevis
screw
housing Clevis strap
Clevis
strap
If your sink did not have a pop-up stopper, you’ll need Attach the clevis strap to the pivot rod that enters the
to replace the sink drain tailpiece with a pop-up stopper body pop-up drain body and adjust the position of the strap so
(often supplied with the faucet). Insert the lift rod through the it raises and lowers properly when the lift rod is pulled
hole in the back of the spout and, from below, thread the pivot up. Tighten the clevis screw at this point. It’s hard to fit a
rod through the housing for the clevis screw. screwdriver in here, so you may need to use a wrench or pliers.
11 12
Aerator
Attach the faucet handles to the valves using whichever Remove the faucet aerator, turn on the water supply and
method is required by the faucet manufacturer. Most faucets test the faucet so any debris in the lines can clear the spout.
are designed with registration methods to ensure that the
handles are symmetrical and oriented in an ergonomic way
once you secure them to the valves.
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■ Variation: Single-piece Faucets
1 2
Coupling nut
Clevis screw
Flexible sink
supply riser
Pivot rod
Insert the faucet tailpieces through the holes in the sink. Slide the lift rod of the new faucet into its hole behind the
From below, thread washers and mounting nuts over the spout. Thread it into the clevis past the clevis screw. Push the
tailpieces, then tighten the mounting nuts with a basin wrench pivot rod all the way down so the stopper is open. With the lift
until snug. Put a dab of pipe joint compound on the threads of rod also all the way down, tighten the clevis to the lift rod.
the stop valves and thread the metal nuts of the flexible supply
risers to these. Wrench tighten about a half turn past hand tight.
Overtightening these nuts will strip the threads. Now tighten the
coupling nuts to the faucet tailpieces with a basin wrench.
3 4
Grease the fluted valve stems with heatproof grease, then Unscrew the aerator from the end of the spout. Turn the hot
put the handles in place. Put a drop of Loctite on each handle and cold water taps on full. Turn the water back on at the stop
screw before tightening it on to keep the handles from coming valves and flush out the faucet for a couple of minutes before
loose. Cover each handle screw with the appropriate index turning off the water at the faucet. Check the riser connections
cap—Hot or Cold. for drips. Tighten a compression nut only until the drip stops.
Replace the aerator.
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Wall‑Mount Faucets
A wall-mounted faucet adds a touch of elegance
to your bathroom. It’s perfect for vessel sinks
and hanging vanities, because the hoses and shut-off
Tools & Materials ▸
valves are out of view. Tubing cutter Lead-free solder
A wall-mounted sink faucet is similar to a shower Tape measure Flux
or bathtub faucet. The main difference is that the Level 2 × 4 lumber
handles and faucet are usually in a line, rather than at Torch #10, 1" wood screws
a distance from each other. Like the shower or bathtub Channel-type pliers Two-handle valve
faucet, you will need to have an access door behind Allen wrench Wall-mount faucet
the sink, or have the plumbing easily accessible in the Wallboard Plumber’s putty
basement for a first floor bathroom. finishing tools Wallboard
The valve unit and the faucets and spout will
likely need to be made by the same manufacturer,
as the parts are generally not interchangeable.
Wall-mounted faucets have a spare, futuristic appeal that many high-end designers prefer. Functionally, they have the added
advantage of keeping the sink deck clear.
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■ How to Install a Wall-Mounted Sink Faucet
1 2
Determine the location for the faucet. Make reference Attach the wall plate from the faucet kit to the studs with
marks for the faucet location on walls that will not be removed #10, 1" wood screws. Check the installation for level and
or create a cardboard template. Remove the wallboard correct it if necessary. Solder the lines from the valve assembly
between the studs at the faucet location and where necessary to 1⁄2" copper supply lines using couplings (left is hot, right is
to run supply and drain lines. Install 2 × 4 bracing according to cold). Turn the water on and check for leaks.
the faucet manufacturer’s instructions.
3 4 Spline adapter
Escutcheon
Handle bonnet
Valve assembly
Replace the wallboard and finish the wall surface. The Thread the handle assemblies onto the valve bodies
circular cutouts for the handles and spout should be no more and tighten. If the handles are not horizontal when closed,
than 11⁄2" in diameter. Remove the plaster guards from the remove them. Remove the spline adapter and give it a quarter
valve. Thread the spout into the spout stub until tight. Back turn. Repeat until the handles are horizontal when closed.
off the spout until it faces downward and tighten the screws. Remove the handles. Apply plumber’s putty to the back of the
Apply plumber’s putty to the back of the escutcheon and slide escutcheons and slide over the handle bonnets. Securely hand
it into place. tighten the handles and slide escutcheons into place. Remove
excess putty from escutcheons.
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Lavatory Drains
P op-up stoppers are chrome-plated, long-legged
plugs in bathroom sinks that are opened and
closed with a knob behind the spout. The stopper
may also purchase one by itself. This will include
everything from the stopper to the pipe that drops into
the trap (the trap is that drooping piece of drainpipe
itself is just the visible part of a behind-the-scenes under your sink). Choose a pop-up stopper assembly
assembly that makes sure the stopper sits and stands that’s heavy brass under the chrome finish. This will
on cue. New faucets come with their own pop-up hold up better to time and abuse than a plastic or
stopper assemblies, assuming they use one, but you light-gauge metal model.
Installing a lavatory drain is a bit trickier than installing a kitchen sink drain because most have a pop-up stopper with linkage.
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Pop-up stoppers keep objects from
falling down the drain, and they make
Surface of
filling and draining the sink easy. When you
Stopper sink basin pull up on the lift rod, the clevis strap is
Flange
raised, which raises the pivot rod, which
seesaws on the pivot ball and pulls the
pop-up stopper down against the flange.
Pop‑up
stopper body Hollow channel This blocks water through the sink drain,
for overflow but water may still overflow into the
water
overflow channel drain through overflow
Rubber Clevis ports in the pop-up body. This is a nice
gasket strap feature if you leave the water running in a
plugged basin by mistake.
Underside
of sink
Nylon
washer Lock nut
Pivot ball gasket
Pivot ball & rod
Drain
tailpiece
Spring clip
Retaining nut on the pivot rod
The lavatory drain trap holds water that
seals the drain line and prevents sewer
gases from entering the home. Each time
a drain is used, the standing trap water is
Sink
flushed away and replaced by new water.
Supply tube
The shape of the trap and fixture drain line
may resemble the letter P, and sink traps
Clevis sometimes are called P-traps.
Drain stopper
pivot rod
Fixture drain
line
Drain trap
Shutoff valve
Standing water
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■ How to Replace a Pop-up Stopper
1 Lock nuts Pop‑up
drain
2 Bottom
of sink
tailpiece Clevis
Stopper
body
Spring clip
Cap
Trap arm
Ball‑and‑
pivot rod
Trap J‑bend
Put a basin under the trap to catch water. Loosen the Unscrew the cap holding the ball-and-pivot rod in the
nuts at the outlet and inlet to the trap J-bend by hand or with pop-up body and withdraw the ball. Compress the spring clip
channel-type pliers and remove the bend. The trap will slide off on the clevis and withdraw the pivot rod from the clevis.
the pop-up body tailpiece when the nuts are loose. Keep track
of washers and nuts and their up/down orientation by leaving
them on the tubes.
3 4
Wrap tape
in clockwise
direction
Stopper
body
Stopper
Flange
Remove the pop-up stopper. Then, from below, remove Clean the drain opening above and below, and then thread
the lock nut on the stopper body. If needed, keep the flange the locknut all the way down the new pop-up body followed
from turning by inserting a large screwdriver in the drain from by the flat washer and the rubber gasket (beveled side up).
the top. Thrust the stopper body up through the hole to free Wrap three layers of Teflon tape clockwise onto the top of the
the flange from the basin, and then remove the flange and the threaded body. Make a 1⁄2"-dia. snake from plumber’s putty, form
stopper body. it into a ring, and stick the ring underneath the drain flange.
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5 6
Stopper in
drain
Plumber’s
putty
From below, face the pivot rod opening directly back toward the Drop the pop-up stopper into the drain hole so the hole at
middle of the faucet and pull the body straight down to seat the the bottom of its post is closest to the back of the sink. Put
flange. Thread the locknut/washer assembly up under the sink, the beveled nylon washer into the opening in the back of the
then fully tighten the locknut with channel-type pliers. Do not twist pop-up body with the bevel facing back.
the flange in the process, as this can break the putty seal. Clean
off the squeezeout of plumber’s putty from around the flange.
7 Clevis 8
Adjust so clevis
is vertical
Clevis screw
Put the cap behind the ball on the pivot rod as shown. Loosen the clevis screw holding the clevis strap to the lift
Sandwich a hole in the clevis with the spring clip and thread rod. Push the pivot rod all the way down (which fully opens the
the long end of the pivot rod through the clip and clevis. Put pop-up stopper). With the lift rod also all the way down, tighten
the ball end of the pivot rod into the pop-up body opening and the clevis screw to the rod. If the clevis runs into the top of the
into the hole in the the stopper stem. Screw the cap onto the trap, cut it short with your hacksaw or tin snips. Reassemble
pop-up body over the ball. the J-bend trap.
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Toilets, Bidets
& Urinals
S ince the invention of the original water closet in
the 19th Century, toilets have become (arguably)
the most indispensable piece of household equipment.
If your toilet is not functioning acceptably, no one is
happy. Advancing technology has given us toilets that
perform more reliably and more efficiently than ever,
but it is still estimated that toilets are responsible for
as many as half of all home plumbing repair calls. It is
worth installing a quality fixture and taking the time to
do it right.
The toilet has two close relatives that are
becoming increasingly popular in modern homes: the
bidet and the urinal. A longtime standard in Europe,
the bidet is positioned directly next to the toilet and
is used for personal sanitation after the toilet. The
warm water stream is a much more effective sanitation
solution than paper alone, and is also useful for people
with limited mobility.
The urinal has become a very trendy piece of
bathroom equipment. As water becomes more scarce,
expect to see more and more urinals being installed
in homes. They use just a fraction of the water that a
toilet consumes per flush, and some types use no water
at all.
In this chapter:
• Toilets
• Bidets
• Urinals
■ 175
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Toilets
Y ou can replace a poorly functioning toilet with
a new high-efficiency, high-quality toilet for a
couple hundred dollars, an investment that will lead
All this technological advancement means fewer
second flushes and fewer clogged toilets, which were
the common complaints about the first generation
to savings in water usage and frustration—especially if of 1.6-gallon “low flow” toilets. Unfortunately, these
you have a very old toilet. All toilets made since 1996 problems still exist in some lower-end inferior models.
have been required to use 1.6 gallons or less per flush, Do your research when shopping for a new toilet
which initially presented something of a challenge to and don’t necessary look for the cheapest model you
the industry. Technology has evolved so that most new can find; a time-tested model with few customer
toilets have wide passages behind the bowl and wide complaints will be the better bargain in the long run.
(3") flush valve openings—features that facilitate short, Your criteria in selecting a new toilet should
powerful flushes. Manufacturers have also developed include ease of installation, proven flush performance,
new alternatives, such as dual-flush technology that and reliability. With a little research, you should be
allows you to choose between two flushing options able to find a highly efficient and economical gravity-
depending on what needs to be flushed. flush toilet that will serve you for years to come.
Replacing a toilet is simple, and the
latest generation of 1.6‑gal. water‑saving
toilets has overcome the performance
problems of earlier models.
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Buy a toilet that will fit the space.
Measure the distance from the floor bolts
back to the wall (if your old toilet has two
pairs of bolts, go by the rear pair). This is
your rough‑in distance and will be either
10" or approximately 12". Make note of
the bowl shape, round or oval (long). Oval
bowls (also called elongated bowls) are a
few inches longer for greater comfort, but
may be too big for your space. The safest
bet is to buy a replacement with the same
bowl shape.
Round
front
Rough‑in distance
10", 12", or 14" Floor bolt
(12" most common) (cap on)
Knowing how a toilet works isn’t
essential to successful installation, but
it helps. This cutaway photo features a
pre‑1.6‑gal. law model, so your new toilet
will have a much smaller trap. When the
flush handle on the tank is depressed, the
water in the tank rushes out through the
Drain outlet hole in the underside of the bowl rim. The
onrushing water forces the contents of the
bowl and the trap out through the closet
Trap flange and into the drain line, while the
fresh tank water refills the bowl and trap.
Drain line
Floor
Closet
flange
Main waste‑vent stack
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■ How to Install a Toilet Replacing a Flange ▸
If the old flange is solvent-welded to the closet pipe,
1 cut the pipe flush with the floor. Dry-fit the new flange
into the pipe. Turn the flange until the side cut-out
screw slots are parallel to the wall. (Do not use the
curved keyhole slots, as they are not as strong.)
Attach the new flange with solvent glue.
Clean and inspect the old closet flange. Look for breaks
or wear. Also inspect the flooring around the flange. If either
the flange or floor is worn or damaged, repair the damage.
Use a rag and mineral spirits to completely remove residue
from the old wax ring.
2 3
Insert new closet bolts (don’t reuse old ones) into the Remove the wax ring and apply it to the underside of the
openings in the closet flange. Make sure the heads of the bolts bowl, around the horn. Remove the protective covering. Do
are oriented to catch the maximum amount of flange material. not touch the wax ring. It is very sticky.
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4 5
Spud nut
Spud washer
Lower the bowl onto the flange, taking care not to disturb Attach the toilet tank. Some tanks come with a flush valve
the wax ring. The holes in the bowl base should align perfectly and a fill valve preinstalled, but if yours does not, insert the
with the tank bolts. Add a washer and tighten a nut on each flush valve through the tank opening and tighten a spud nut
bolt. Hand tighten each nut and then use channel‑type pliers to over the threaded end of the valve. Place a foam or rubber
further tighten the nuts. Alternate back and forth between nuts spud washer on top of the spud nut.
until the bowl is secure. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
6 7 Intermediate nut goes
between tank and bowl
Adjust the fill valve as directed by the manufacturer to set With the tank lying on its back, thread a rubber washer
the correct tank water level height and install the valve inside onto each tank bolt and insert it into the bolt holes from inside
the tank. Hand‑tighten the nylon lock nut that secures the the tank. Then, thread a brass washer and hex nut onto the
valve to the tank (inset photo) and then tighten it farther with tank bolts from below and tighten them to a quarter‑turn past
channel‑type pliers. hand tight. Do not overtighten.
(continued)
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8 9
Intermediate
nut
Position the tank on the bowl, spud washer on the opening, You may stabilize the bolts with a large slotted screwdriver
bolts through bolt holes. Put a rubber washer followed by a from inside the tank, but tighten the nuts, not the bolts. You
brass washer and a wing nut on each bolt and tighten these may press down a little on a side, the front, or the rear of
up evenly. the tank to level it as you tighten the nuts by hand. Do not
overtighten and crack the tank. The tank should be level and
stable when you’re done.
10 11
Hook up the water supply by connecting the supply tube to Attach the toilet seat by threading the plastic or brass bolts
the threaded fill valve with the coupling nut provided. Turn on provided with the seat through the openings on the back of
the water and test for leaks. the rim and attaching nuts.
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Toilet Height Extenders ▸
Although today’s toilets are being made with higher seats
than in the past, physically challenged and elderly people
often find it difficult to use standard toilets, especially
compact toilets (most of the more inexpensive toilets are
compact). To address the problem of low toilet seats, you
can retrofit your toilet with a seat riser or reinstall the
toilet on a platform. See Resources, page 284.
Hinged Seat Risers: By replacing your old toilet
seat with a riser seat, you can raise the functional height
of the toilet by 3" to 4". Look for models that are hinged or
removable for easy cleaning.
Platforms: It is possible to use a closet flange
extender and plywood to rig up a DIY toilet platform so
you can install a standard toilet with the seat higher.
A cleaner and simpler option is to purchase a tall
toilet platform that is designed to fit over your existing
closet flange and is predrilled with holes for the closet
flange bolts.
1 2
Remove the old seat. If the nuts for the seat bolts are Install the new height extender by bolting it to the
corroded, slip a hack saw blade between the hinge plates stool through the seat bolt holes. Attach a standard toilet
and stool and cut the bolts. seat to the extender.
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Bidets Tools & Materials ▸
Tape measure Tubing cutter
B idets are becoming ever more popular in the Drill Plumber’s putty
United States. Maybe that’s because they can Adjustable wrench Thread tape
give a dream bath that European flare so many of us Level Bidet
find alluring. Go to Europe, Asia, or South America Silicone sealant Bidet faucet
and you’ll see how much people can come to rely on (2) 3⁄8" shut off valves Marker
bidets. Some fans of this bathroom fixture think those (2) 3⁄8" supply lines
who don’t use bidets are unhygienic. P-trap
With the trend moving toward larger and more
luxurious bathrooms, many Americans are becoming
intrigued by this personal hygiene appliance. The
standard model features hot and cold faucets, and Installing a bidet is very much like installing a
either a movable nozzle located by the faucet handles sink. The only difference is that the bidet can have
or a vertical sprayer located near the front of the the waste line plumbed below the floor, like a shower.
bowl. Most bidets are outfitted with a pop-up drain. But like sinks, bidets may have single or multiple
You can also buy a combination toilet and bidet if deck holes for faucets, so be certain to purchase
space is an issue. compatible components.
A bidet is a useful companion to a toilet, and it is a luxury item you and your family will appreciate. For people with limited
mobility, a bidet is an aide to independent personal sanitation.
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Bidet faucet
Stopper Pop‑up
lift rod
To wall
Option: drain
Wall drain arm
Pop‑up
mechanism
Option:
Floor drain arm
To floor drain
Bidet drains have more in common with sink drains than with toilet drains. Some even attach to a drain arm in the wall,
with a P‑trap that fits between the fixture drain tailpiece and the arm. Other bidets drain into a floor drain outlet with a trap that’s
situated between the tailpiece and the branch drain line.
Overflow
Stool (basin)
Bidet faucet
Stopper
Drain line
Lift rod Bolts
Trap
A bidet requires a special faucet that allows you to mix hot You can get all the features of a bidet on your existing
and cold water to a temperature you find comfortable. It has a toilet with a number of aftermarket bidet seats. These seats
third knob to control the water pressure. The aerator and spout feature heaters, sprayers, and dryers in basic or deluxe
pivot to allow you to adjust the spray to a comfortable height. versions. Installation takes less than an hour and no additional
space is needed.
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■ How to Install a Bidet
1 2
Rough‑in the supply and drain lines according to the Apply a coil of plumber’s putty around the underside of
manufacturer’s specifications. If you do not have experience the drain flange. Insert the flange in the drain hole, place the
installing home plumbing, hire a plumber for this part gasket and washer, and then thread the nut onto the flange.
of the job. Apply a coil of plumber’s putty to the base of Do not fully tighten.
the bidet faucet, and then insert the faucet body into the
mounting holes. Thread the washers and locknut onto the
faucet body shank and hand tighten. Remove any plumber’s
putty squeeze out.
3 4
Install the pop‑up drain apparatus according to the Place the bidet in its final location, checking that supply
manufacturer’s instructions. and drain lines will be in alignment. Mark the locations of the
two side‑mounting holes through the predrilled holes on the
stool and onto the floor.
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5 6
Remove the bidet and drill 3⁄16" pilot holes at the marks on Connect the water supply risers to the bidet faucet using
the floor. Drive the floor bolts (included with the bidet basin) compression unions. Make sure to hook the hot and cold risers
into the holes. Position the bidet so the floor bolts fit into the up to the correct ports on the faucet.
bolt holes in the base. Tighten nuts onto the floor bolts.
7 8
Hook up the drain line by attaching the P‑trap to the Remove the aerator so any debris in the supply line will
drain tailpiece. The trap is then attached to a branch drain clear and then turn on the water and open both faucets. Check
line coming out of the wall or floor in the same manner as for leaks in lines and fix, if found. Assemble the bolt caps and
a sink drain. thread them onto the floor bolts. Note: Do not dispose of paper
in the bidet—return to the toilet to dry off after using the bidet
for cleaning.
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Urinals
M ost people consider a urinal to be a commercial
or industrial bathroom accessory, so why
would you want one in your home—and in your
dream bathroom no less? The answer is in the
many advantages a urinal has to offer and the fact
that most major bathroom fixture manufacturers
are now producing urinals designed for
residential installation.
A urinal doesn’t take up much space and it uses
much less water per flush than a standard toilet: .5
to 1.0 gallon of water per flush for the urinal, as
opposed to the low-flow toilet’s 1.6 gallons of water
per flush. You also have the option of a waterless
urinal, a real boon in water-scarce areas. A urinal
also has the emotional benefit of ending the “up versus
down” toilet seat debate. Finally, a urinal is generally
easier to keep clean than a toilet because splashing
is minimized.
In today’s homes with large multiple bathrooms
and his and hers master baths, there are plenty of
places you can choose to install a urinal. Of course,
the perfect place is where it will get used the most: in
the bathroom closest to the TV if the guys congregate
at your house to watch sporting events; or in the
bathroom closest to boys’ bedrooms if you’ve got a
passel of them.
Tools & Materials ▸
Tape measure Urinal flushometer
Adjustable wrench Emery cloth
Pencil Wire brush
Level Allen wrench
Sealant tape Drywall
Utility knife Drywall tape
Drywall saw Drywall compound
Tubing cutter 2 × 6 lumber
Hacksaw PVC 2" drainpipe
Miter box PVC 2" male threaded
Hex wrenches drain outlet
Smooth-jawed 1
⁄2" copper pipe
spud wrench Urinal
Slotted screwdriver Sealant tape
Urinals are great water savers and are becoming
increasingly popular in today’s dream bathroom.
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Waterless Urinals ▸
For the ultimate in water‑conservation, you can
now purchase a home urinal that uses zero water. A
waterless urinal is never flushed, so you’ll save about a
gallon of water per usage. Naturally, waterless urinals
are plumbed into your drain line system. But where
typical plumbing fixtures rely on fresh water to carry
the waste into the system, the waterless system relies
simply on gravity for the liquid waste to find its way out
of the fixture and into the drain. The secret is a layer of
sealing liquid that is lighter than the water and forms
a skim coat over the urine. When the urine enters the
trap it displaces the sealing liquid, which immediately
reforms on the surface to create a layer that seals in
odors. The Kohler fixture seen here (see Resources,
page 284) is an example of the sealing liquid system. A layer of sealing liquid forms a skim coat that floats on top of
Other waterless urinals use replaceable cartridges. the liquid to trap odors.
■ Flushing Options for Urinals
A manual flush handle is still the most common and least Motion sensors automatically flush touchless urinals, which
expensive flushing mechanism for urinals. It is reliable but not is a great improvement in sanitation. These tend to be more
as sanitary as touchless types such as the Flushometer on expensive, however, and are more likely to develop problems. Also,
page 166. because they flush automatically when users step away from the
fixture they don’t allow you to conserve water by limiting flushing.
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■ How to Install a Urinal
1 2 2×6
mounting board
Remove the drywall or other surface coverings between the Following the manufacturer’s directions for the urinal
urinal location and the closest water supply and waste lines. and flushometer, determine the mounting height of the
Remove enough wall surface to reveal half of the stud face on urinal, and mark the location of the supply and waste lines.
each side of the opening to make patch work simpler. For this installation, the 2" waste line is centered 171⁄2" above
the finished floor. Cut 51⁄2" × 11⁄2" notches in the wall studs
centered at 32" above the finished floor surface, then attach a
2 × 6 mounting board.
3 4
Install the copper cold water supply line according to the Install the 2" drainpipe and vent pipe, making sure that
manufacturer’s specifications. Here, it is 43⁄4" to the side of the the centerline of the drain outlet is positioned correctly (here,
fixture centerline and 45" from the finished floor (111⁄2" from 171⁄2" above the finished floor and 43⁄4" to the side of the supply
the top of the fixture). Cap the stub‑out 3" from the finished line).Attach the male threaded waste outlet to the drain pipe.
wall surface. It should extend beyond the finished wall surface. Replace the
wall covering and finish as desired.
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5 6
Attach the mounting brackets 32" above the floor, 31⁄4" to Apply Teflon tape to the waste outlet. Thread the female
the sides of the centerline of the waste outlet. collar onto the waste outlet until it is firmly seated and the
flanges are horizontally level. Place the gasket onto the
female collar. The beveled surface of the gasket faces toward
the urinal.
7 8
Hang the urinal on the brackets, being careful not to bump Determine the distance from the centerline of the water
the porcelain as it chips easily. Thread the screws through the inlet on the top of the urinal, called the spud, to the finished
washers, the holes in the urinal, and into the collar. Tighten the wall. Subtract 11⁄4" from this distance and cut the water supply
screws by hand, then one full turn with an adjustable wrench. pipe to that length using a tubing cutter. Turn off the water
Do not overtighten. before cutting. After cutting, deburr the inside and outside
diameter of the supply pipe. Attach the threaded adapter to
the cut pipe.
(continued)
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9 10
Supply flange
Control stop
Covering tube
Measure from the wall surface to the first thread of the Apply a small amount of pipe sealant to the adapter
adapter. Using a hacksaw and a miter box or a tubing cutter, threads, then thread the control stop onto the adapter
cut the covering tube to this length. Slide the covering tube threads. Position the outlet toward the urinal so that it is
over the water supply pipe. Slide the supply flange over horizontally level.
the covering tube until it rests against the wall. Tighten the
setscrew on the flange with an Allen wrench.
11 12
Valve body
Slip nut
Tailpiece
Hand tighten the tailpiece into the flushometer valve body. Hand tighten the slip nut that connects the valve body to
the control stop.
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13 The Flush‑o‑Meter ▸
For maximum sanitation, choose a urinal flush
mechanism with an electronic sensor, like the Kohler
Flush‑o‑meter being installed here. The electronic
eye on this type of flush mechanism senses when
a user approaches the fixture and then commands
the fixture to flush when the user steps away. This
eliminates the need to touch the handle before the
user has the opportunity to wash his hands.
Use a smooth‑jawed spud wrench to securely tighten the
tailpiece, vacuum breaker, and spud couplings.
While testing the flush, adjust the
14 supply stop screw counter‑clockwise until
adequate flow is achieved.
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Lighting &
Ventilaton
L ighting plays an important role in every bathroom.
Without good lighting placed in strategic areas,
we wouldn’t be able to conduct most of our bathroom
business. Many different types of lighting and a
seemingly infinite array of styles are available to light
up your dream bath. Unless you’re starting from
scratch or tearing down the walls is part of your
bathroom remodel, be sure to choose fixtures designed
for retrofit installations.
Ventilation also plays an important role in every
bathroom. It’s so important that most building codes
require a vent fan in any bathroom lacking natural
ventilation. Remodeling your dream bath gives you the
perfect opportunity to add a new vent fan or upgrade
to a quieter, more efficient model, maybe even one
with a built-in heat lamp.
In this chapter:
• Vanity Lights
• Ceiling Lights
• Vent Fans
• Skylights
• Tubular Skylights
• Glass Block Windows
■ 193
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Vanity Lights
M any bathrooms have a single fixture positioned
above the vanity, but a light source in this
position casts shadows on the face and makes
grooming more difficult. Light fixtures on either side
of the mirror is a better arrangement.
For a remodel, mark the mirror location, run
cable, and position boxes before drywall installation.
You can also retrofit by installing new boxes and
drawing power from the existing fixture.
The light sources should be at eye level; 66" is
typical. The size of your mirror and its location on
the wall may affect how far apart you can place the
sconces, but 36 to 40" apart is a good guideline.
Tools & Materials ▸
Drywall tools Electrical boxes
Drill and braces
Combination tool Vanity light fixtures
Circuit tester NM cable
Screwdrivers Wire connectors
Hammer Drywall
Vanity lights on the sides of the mirror provide good lighting.
■ How to Replace Vanity Lights in a Finished Bathroom
1 2
Turn off the power at the service panel. Remove the old Mark the location for the fixtures and install new boxes.
fixture from the wall and test to make sure that the power is Install the boxes about 66" above the floor and 18 to 20" from
off. Then remove a strip of drywall from around the old fixture the centerline of the mirror (the mounting base of some fixtures
to the first studs beyond the approximate location of the new is above or below the bulb, so adjust the height of the bracing
fixtures. Make the opening large enough that you have room to accordingly). If the correct location is on or next to a stud, you
route cable from the existing fixture to the boxes. can attach the box directly to the stud, otherwise you’ll need to
install blocking or use boxes with adjustable braces (shown).
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3
Cable protector plates
Open the side knockouts on the electrical box above the vanity. Then drill 5⁄8" holes in the centers of any studs between the old
fixture and the new ones. Run two NM cables from the new boxes for the fixtures to the box above the vanity. Protect the cable
with metal protector plates. Secure the cables with cable clamps, leaving 11" of extra cable for making the connection to the new
fixtures. Remove sheathing and strip insulation from the ends of the wires.
4 5
Connect the white wires from the new cables to the white Install the fixture mounting braces on the boxes. Attach
wire from the old cable, and connect the black wires from the fixtures by connecting the black circuit wire to the black
the new cables to the black wire from the old cable. Connect fixture wire, and connecting the white circuit wire to the white
the ground wires. Cover all open boxes and then replace the fixture wire. Connect the ground wires. Position each fixture
drywall, leaving openings for the fixture and the old box. (Cover over each box, and attach with the mounting screws. Restore
the old box with a solid junction box cover plate.) power and test the circuit.
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Ceiling Lights
C eiling fixtures don’t have any moving parts and
their wiring is very simple, so, other than changing
bulbs, you’re likely to get decades of trouble-free
Tools & Materials ▸
service from a fixture. This sounds like a good thing, Replacement
but it also means that the fixture probably won’t fail light fixture
and give you an excuse to update a room’s look with Combination tool
a new one. Fortunately, you don’t need an excuse. Voltage sensor
Upgrading a fixture is easy and can make a dramatic Insulated
impact on a room. You can substantially increase the screwdrivers
light in a room by replacing a globe-style fixture by one Wire connectors
with separate spot lights, or you can simply install a
new fixture that matches the room’s décor.
It’s a fairly unusual bathroom that has room for a fancy ceiling light fixture, but even modest bathrooms should have a bright,
pleasant overhead light for general illumination and safety.
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Shown cutaway
Electrical box
Metal braces
Joist
Hot wire
Brace
Grounding wire
Wallboard
Neutral wire
Mounting strap
Grounding
screw
If the new fixture is much heavier than the original fixture,
it will require additional bracing in the ceiling to support the
Mounting
electrical box and the fixture. The manufacturer’s instructions
screws should specify the size and type of box. If the ceiling is finished
and there is no access from above, you can remove the old
box and use an adjustable remodeling brace appropriate
for your fixture (shown). The brace fits into a small hole in
the ceiling (inset). Once the bracing is in place, install a new
Fixture base
electrical box specified for the new fixture.
Tab
Brass screw
terminal
Socket (cutaway)
Shade
Filament
No matter what a ceiling light fixture looks like on the Inexpensive light fixtures have screw terminals mounted
outside, they all attach in basically the same way. An electrical directly to the back side of the fixture plate. Often, as seen
box in the ceiling is fitted with a mounting strap, which holds the here, they have no grounding terminal. Some codes do not
fixture in place. The bare wire from the ceiling typically connects allow this type of fixture, but even if your hometown does
to the mounting strap. The two wires coming from the fixture approve them, it is a good idea to replace them with a better
connect to the black and the white wires from the ceiling. quality, safer fixture that is UL‑approved.
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■ How to Replace a Ceiling Light
1 2
Shut off power to the ceiling light and remove the shade Remove the twist connectors from the fixture wires or
or diffuser. Loosen the mounting screws and carefully lower unscrew the screw terminals and remove the white neutral
the fixture, supporting it as you work (do not let light fixtures wire and the black lead wire (inset).
hang by their electrical wires alone). Test with a voltage sensor
to make sure no power is reaching the connections.
3 4
Before you install the new fixture, check the ends of the Attach a mounting strap to the ceiling fixture box if there is
wires coming from the ceiling electrical box. They should be not one already present. Your new light may come equipped
clean and free of nicks or scorch marks. If they’re dirty or worn, with a strap, otherwise you can find one for purchase at any
clip off the stripped portion with your combination tool. Then hardware store.
strip away about 3⁄4" of insulation from the end of each wire.
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5 6
Lift the new fixture up to the ceiling (you may want a With the fixture supported by a ladder or a helper,
helper for this) and attach the bare copper ground wire from join the white wire lead and the white fixture wire with a wire
the power supply cable to the grounding screw or clip on the connector (often supplied with the fixture).
mounting strap. Also attach the ground wire from the fixture to
the screw or clip.
7 8
Connect the black power supply wire to the black fixture Position the new fixture mounting plate over the box
wire with a wire connector. so the mounting screw holes align. Drive the screws until the
fixture is secure against the ceiling.
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Vent Fans Tools & Materials ▸
Phillips and straight Dryer vent clamps
F or most of us, a dream bathroom does not screwdrivers Vent cover
include foggy mirrors or unpleasant odors. Jigsaw or drywall saw Drywall
Opening a window, if your bathroom is equipped Reciprocating saw 4" hole saw
with one, can help, but vent fans do the best job Drill
of clearing the air. Electrical tester
Most vent fans are installed in the center of the Exhaust fan unit
bathroom ceiling or over the toilet area. A fan installed Drywall screws
over the tub or shower area must be GFCI protected Wire connectors
and rated for use in wet areas. You can usually wire a Flexible dryer
fan with a light fixture into a main bathroom electrical vent duct
circuit, but units with built-in heat lamps or blowers
require separate circuits.
If the fan you choose doesn’t come with a mounting install flashing around the outside vent cover to
kit, purchase one separately. A mounting kit should prevent roof leaks.
include a vent hose (duct), a vent tailpiece, and an Soffit venting involves routing the duct to a soffit
exterior vent cover. (roof overhang) instead of through the roof. Check with
Venting instructions vary among manufacturers, the vent manufacturer for instructions for soffit venting.
but the most common options are attic venting and To prevent moisture damage, always terminate
soffit venting. Attic venting routes fan ductwork into the vent outside your home—never into your attic
the attic and out through the roof. Always insulate or basement.
ducting in this application to keep condensation from You can install a vent fan while the framing is
forming and running down into the motor. Carefully exposed or as a retrofit, as shown in this project.
Fan rating
(cubic feet
per minute)
Sone
rating
A combination light/vent fan is a great product in powder rooms and smaller baths that to do not generate excessive amounts
of air moisture. In larger baths with tubs and showers, install a dedicated vent fan with a CFM rating that’s at least 5 CFM higher
than the total square footage of the bathroom (inset photo).
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■ How to Replace an Overhead Light with a Light/Fan
1 2
Shut off power to the ceiling light at the electrical service Test the wire connections with a current tester to make
panel. Remove the globe and bulb from the overhead ceiling sure they are not live, and then disconnect the wires and
light, and then disconnect the mounting screws that hold the remove the light fixture. Cap the wire ends.
light fixture to the ceiling box.
3 4
Joist bay
Duct location
Plan your exhaust pipe route. In most cases, this means Remove ceiling covering in the fan unit installation area
determining the shortest distance between the fan and the and between the joists at the end of the run, next to the wall.
outdoors. If the room is located at the top living level, venting You’ll need at least 18" of access. If you are running rigid vent
through the roof is usually smartest. On lower levels and in pipe or the joist bay is insulated, you’ll need to remove ceiling
basements, you’ll need to go through an exterior wall. If you material between the joists for the entire run. Make cuts on
need to route through a wall in a room with a finished ceiling, the centerlines of the joists.
choose a route that runs through a single ceiling joist bay.
(continued)
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5 6
Insert flexible vent tubing into one of the ceiling openings Draw a 4"‑dia. circle on the wall framing at the end of the
and expand it so the free end reaches to the ceiling opening at joist bay, marking the exit point for the duct. Choose a long,
the wall. A fish‑tape for running cable through walls can be a 1
⁄4"‑dia. drill bit and drill a hole at the center of the circle. Drill all
useful aid for extending the tubing. the way through the wall so the bit exits on the exterior side.
This will mark your hole location outside.
7 8
On the exterior, draw a 4"‑dia. circle centered on the exit Insert the vent cover assembly into the opening,
point of the drill bit. Cut out the opening for the vent cover with following the manufacturer’s directions for fastening and
a reciprocating saw or a 4" hole saw. sealing it to the house.
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9 10
Attach the end of the vent tubing to the outlet on the Nail the housing for the light/fan unit to the ceiling
vent cover unit and secure it with a large pipe clamp. joist so the bottom edges of the housing are flush with the
ceiling surface.
11 12
Make the wiring connections in the housing box Patch and paint the wall and ceiling in the project area.
according to the manufacturer’s instructions. In just about Mount the light (the model we installed plugs into a receptacle
every case you should be able to use the existing wires from in the fan box), grille, globe, and any other fixture parts.
the original light switch. Once you have connected the wires,
restore the power and test the fan.
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Skylights Tools & Materials ▸
4-ft. level 2× lumber
S kylights let an amazing amount of light into a Circular saw 1×4
bathroom. Do not select a skylight that’s too big, Drill Building paper
it can overheat a space. The same is true of using too Combination square Roofing cement
many skylights in any one room. For that reason it’s Reciprocating saw Skylight flashing
often best to position a skylight away from the day’s Pry bar 2", 11⁄4", and 3⁄4"
brightest sun. You may want an operable skylight that Chalk line roofing nails
opens and closes to vent warm air. Stapler Finish nails
When a skylight is installed above an unfinished Caulk gun Fiberglass insulation
Utility knife 1⁄2" wallboard
attic space, a special skylight shaft must be constructed
to channel light directly to the room below. Aviation snips Twine
Installing a skylight above finished space involves Plumb bob Wallboard screws
other considerations. First, the ceiling surface must Jig saw 6-mil polyethylene
be removed to expose the rafters. To remove wall and Wallboard tools sheeting
ceiling surfaces, see pages 86 to 89. 16d and 10d Finishing materials
A skylight frame is similar to a standard window common nails Screws
frame. It has a header and sill, like a window frame,
but it has king rafters rather than king studs. Skylight
frames also have trimmers that define the sides
of the rough opening. Refer to the manufacturer’s is made with unusually heavy material, such as clay,
instructions to determine what size to make the tile, or slate, consult an architect or engineer before
opening for the skylight you select. starting the project.
With standard rafter-frame roof construction, Today’s good-quality skylight units are unlikely
you can safely cut into one or two rafters as long as to leak, but a skylight is only as leakproof as its
you permanently support the cut rafters, as shown installation. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions,
in the following steps. If your skylight requires and install the flashing meticulously, as it will last a lot
alteration of more than two rafters or if your roofing longer than any sealant.
A skylight or a tubular skylight is a great way to bring natural light and ventilation into a bathroom without sacrificing privacy.
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■ How to Install a Skylight
1 Intermediate
rafter
2 3 Sister
rafter
Double
King header
rafters mark
Double
Planned sill
rough mark
opening
Use the first rafter on each side of Brace the intermediate rafter by Reinforce each king rafter by attaching
the planned rough opening as a king installing two 2 × 4s between the rafter a full-length “sister” rafter against its
rafter. Measure and mark where the and the attic floor. Position the braces outside face. Cut sister rafters from the
double header and sill will fit against just above the header marks and just same size of lumber as existing rafters,
the king rafters. Then, use a level as a below the sill marks. Secure them matching lengths and end cuts exactly.
straightedge to extend the marks across temporarily to the rafter and subfloor (or Work each one into position, flush against
the intermediate rafter. joists) with screws. the outside face of the king rafters, then
nail the sisters to the kings with pairs of
10d common nails spaced 12" apart.
4 5 6 Cripple
rafter
Use a combination square to transfer Build a double header and double sill Install the header and sill, anchoring
the sill and header marks across the face to fit snugly between the king rafters, them to the king rafters and cripple
of the intermediate rafter, then cut along using 2× lumber that is the same size rafters with 16d common nails. Make
the outermost lines with a reciprocating as the rafters. Nail the header pieces sure the ends of the header and sill are
saw. Do not cut into the roof sheathing. together using pairs of 10d nails spaced aligned with the appropriate marks on
Carefully remove the cutout section with 6" apart. the king rafters.
a pry bar. The remaining rafter portions
will serve as cripple rafters.
(continued)
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7 8 9
Trimmers
If your skylight unit is narrower than Mark the opening for the roof cutout Cut out the roof opening. Mount an
the opening between the king studs, by driving a screw through the sheathing old blade in a circular saw or cordless
measure and make marks for the at each corner of the frame. Then, tack trim saw and plunge cut along the top
trimmers: They should be centered in a couple of scrap boards across the and bottom cutting lines. Stop short of
the opening and spaced according to opening to prevent the roof cutout from the corners so you don’t overcut. Tack
the manufacturer’s specifications. Cut falling and causing damage below. a piece of 1 × 4 across the opening to
the trimmers from the same 2× lumber catch the waste piece and then make
used for the rest of the frame, and nail the side cuts. Finish the cuts at the
them in place with 10d common nails. corners with a jig saw or handsaw.
Remove the 2 × 4 braces. Remove the waste.
10 11 12
Remove the shingles surrounding Seal the bottom of the rough frame Position the skylight in the
the opening, but try and maintain the opening. Apply a strip of self‑adhesive opening. Different models use different
integrity of the building paper beneath. flashing at the bottom of the roof fastening and centering devices. The
Try to salvage the shingles if you can so opening to create a seal on the curb one seen here is installed using pairs of
they can be reinstalled (they’ll match and to cover the seam between the adjustable brackets that are fastened
better than new shingles). Start with the underlayment and the roof deck. This is to the roof deck and to the sides of the
row of shingles above the opening. Once for extra protection. skylight frame.
these are removed you’ll have access to
the roofing nails on lower courses.
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13 14 15
Fasten the skylight unit. Many models Install self‑adhesive flashing strips Install the metal flashing beginning
employ adjustable brackets like the ones around the skylight curb. Start with the with the sill. Some skylights have a
seen here so the skylight can be raised or base strip, cutting slits in the corners so 4‑piece flashing kit where the side
lowered and centered in the opening. The the flashing extends all the way up the flashing is simply shingled over.
brackets seen here have a slot and several curb (you’ll need to remove metal cladding Others, like the one seen here,
nail holes in the horizontal flange. Drive strips first). Install the head flashing last include solid base and head flashing
a ring shank nail in all four slots and then so all strips overlap from above. components and step flashing that is
shift the unit side to side as necessary woven in with the shingles as the roof
until it is centered in the opening. coverings are installed.
16 17 18
Replace shingles up to the skylight Install side flashing. Here, metal step Install the head flashing piece so
curb. Install shingles in complete rows, flashing is interwoven with the shingles it overlaps the last course of shingle
notching them to fit around the curb. during the shingling process. Whether and step flashing. Finish shingling in
Stop once the granular surfaces of the it’s the shingle layer or the step flashing the installation area, again taking care
top row of shingles meet the curb. layer, make sure that all components not to nail through any metal flashing.
always overlap from above and the Replace the metal cladding and caulk if
horizontal tabs on the step flashing are recommended by the manufacturer.
all covered with shingles. Do not nail
through flashing.
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■ How to Build a Skylight Shaft
Header Cripple
rafter 1
King
rafter
Sister
rafter
Trimmer
Nailing strips
Short corner
post
Vapor
barrier
Front and
side cut away Insulation
for clarity
A skylight shaft is made with 2 × 4 lumber and wallboard Remove any insulation in the area where the skylight
and includes a vapor barrier and fiberglass insulation. You can will be located; turn off and reroute electrical circuits as
build a straight shaft with four vertical sides or an angled shaft necessary. Use a plumb bob as a guide to mark reference
that has a longer frame at ceiling level and one or more sides points on the ceiling surface directly below the inside
set at an angle. Since the ceiling opening is larger, an angled corners of the skylight frame.
shaft lets in more direct light than a straight shaft.
2 3
Plumb
mark
If you are installing a straight shaft, use the plumb marks From the room below, mark cutting lines, then remove the
made in step 1 to define the corners of the ceiling opening; ceiling surface.
drive a finish nail through the ceiling surface at each mark. If
you are installing an angled shaft, measure out from the plumb
marks and make new marks that define the corners of the
ceiling opening; drive finish nails at the new marks.
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4 5
King
joist
Intermediate
joist
Sister
King joist
joists
Use the nearest joists on either side of the ceiling opening If you will be removing a section of an intermediate joist,
to serve as king joists. Measure and mark where the double reinforce the king joists by nailing full-length “sister” joists to
header and double sill will fit against the king joists and the outside faces of the king joists using 10d nails.
where the outside edge of the header and sill will cross any
intermediate joists.
6 7
Install temporary supports below the project area to Build a double header and double sill to span the distance
support the intermediate rafter on both sides of the opening. between the king joists using 2× dimensional lumber the same
Use a combination square to extend cutting lines down the size as the joists.
sides of the intermediate joist, then cut out the joist section
with a reciprocating saw. Pry loose the cutout portion of the
joist, being careful not to damage the ceiling surface.
(continued)
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8 9
Trimmers
Cripple
joist
Install the double header and double sill, anchoring them Complete the ceiling opening by cutting and attaching
to the king joists and cripple joists with 10d nails. The inside trimmers, if required, along the sides of the ceiling cutout
edges of the header and sill should be aligned with the edge of between the header and sill. Toenail the trimmers to the
the ceiling cutout. header and sill with 10d nails.
10 Rafter header
Nailing strip Rafter
location
Corner post
(positioned for
marking)
Cutting
lines
Joist
header
Joist
Install 2 × 4 corner posts for the skylight shaft. To measure for the posts, begin with a 2 × 4 that is long enough to reach from
the top to the bottom of the shaft. Hold the 2 × 4 against the inside of the framed openings, so it is flush with the top of the rafter
header and the bottom of the joist header (left photo). Mark cutting lines where the 2 × 4 meets the top of the joist or trimmer and
the bottom of the rafter or trimmer (right photo). Cut along the lines, then toenail the posts to the top and bottom of the frame with
10d nails.
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11 12
Nailing Nailing
strips strips
Attach a 2 × 4 nailing strip to the outside edge of each Install additional 2 × 4 nailing strips between the corner
corner post to provide a nailing surface for attaching the posts if the distances between posts are more than 24". Miter
wallboard. Notch the ends of the nailing strips to fit around the the top ends of the nailing strips to fit against the rafter trimmers.
trimmers; a perfect fit is not necessary.
13 14 15
Wallboard and insulation
Insulation removed for clarity
removed for clarity
Wrap the skylight shaft with From inside the shaft, staple a plastic Finish the inside of the shaft with
fiberglass insulation. Secure the vapor barrier of 6-mil polyethylene wallboard. Tip: To reflect light, paint
insulation by wrapping twine around the sheeting over the insulation. the shaft interior with a light-colored,
shaft and insulation. semigloss paint.
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Tubular Skylights
A ny interior room, including a bathroom, can
be brightened with a tubular skylight. Tubular
skylights are quite energy-efficient and are relatively
easy to install, with no complicated framing involved.
The design of tubular skylights varies among
manufacturers, with some using solid plastic reflecting
tubes and others using flexible tubing. Various
diameters are also available. Measure the distance
between the framing members in your attic before
purchasing your skylight to be sure it will fit.
This project shows the installation of a tubular
skylight on a sloped, asphalt-shingled roof. Consult A tubular skylight is an economical way to introduce
the dealer or manufacturer for installation procedures more sunlight into a room without embarking on a major
on other roof types. framing project.
Tools & Materials ▸
Pencil Reciprocating saw Wire cutters Stiff wire
Drill Pry bar Utility knife 2" roofing nails or
Tape measure Screwdriver Chalk flashing screws
Wallboard saw Hammer Tubular skylight kit Roofing cement
■ How to Install a Tubular Skylight
1 2 3
Drill a pilot hole through the ceiling Center the ceiling ring frame over In the attic, choose the most direct
at the approximate location for your the hole and trace around it with a route for the tubing to reach the
skylight. Push a stiff wire up into the pencil. Carefully cut along the pencil line roof. Find the center between the
attic to help locate the hole. In the with a wallboard saw or reciprocating appropriate rafters and drive a nail up
attic, make sure the space around the saw. Save the wallboard ceiling cutout through the roof sheathing and shingles.
hole is clear of any insulation. Drill a to use as your roof-hole pattern. Attach
second hole through the ceiling at the the ceiling frame ring around the hole
centerpoint between two joists. with the included screws.
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4 5
Top frame
ring
Lower
tubing
ring
Use the wallboard ceiling cutout, centered over the nail Pull the tubing over the top frame ring. Bend the frame tabs
hole, as a template for the roof opening. Trace the cutout out through the tubing, keeping two or three rings of the tubing
onto the roof with chalk. Drill a starter hole to insert the wire above the tabs. Wrap the junction three times around with
reciprocating saw blade, then cut out the hole in the roof. Pry included PVC tape. Then, in the attic, measure from the roof
up the lower portion of the shingles above the hole. Remove to the ceiling. Stretch out the tubing and cut it to length with a
any staples or nails around the hole edge. utility knife and wire cutters. Pull the loose end of tubing over
the lower ring and wrap it three times with PVC tape.
6 7 8 Diffuser
Ceiling
frame
lens ring
Gasket
Lower the tubing through the roof Secure the flashing to the roof with Pull the lower end of the tubing down
hole and slide the flashing into place 2" roofing nails or flashing screws. Seal through the ceiling hole. Attach the
with the upper portion of the flashing under the shingles and over all the nail lower tubing ring to the ceiling frame
underneath the existing shingles. This is heads with roofing cement. Attach the ring and fasten it with screws. Attach
easier with two people, one on the roof skylight dome and venting to the frame the gasket to the diffuser lens and work
and one in the attic. with the included screws. the gasket around the perimeter of the
ceiling frame. Repack any insulation
around the tubing in the attic.
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Glass Block Windows Tools & Materials ▸
Tape measure 2 × 4 lumber
P robably one of the more enthralling design Circular saw 16d common nails
features that can be added to a dream bath is the Hammer Glass block
glass block window with its tease of light infusion Utility knife perimeter channels
and reduced visibility. It is a highly energy efficient Tin snips 1" galvanized
material and offers great security when used for Drill flat-head screws
windows. Glass block is a great choice for accent Mixing box Glass block mortar
windows and for windows in rooms where privacy Trowel Glass blocks
is a must. 4-ft. level 1
⁄4" T-spacers
Glass block is available in a wide variety of sizes, Rubber mallet Expansion strips
shapes, and patterns. It can be found, along with Jointing tool Silicone caulk
other necessary installation products, at specialty Sponge Construction adhesive
distributors and home centers. Scrub brush Mortar sealant
Building with glass block is much like Caulk gun
building with mortared brick, with two important
differences. First, glass block must be supported
by another structure and cannot function in a
loadbearing capacity. Second, glass block cannot
be cut, so take extra time to make sure the layout
is accurate.
When installing a glass block window, the size of
the rough opening is based on the size and number
of blocks you are using. It is much easier to make an
existing opening smaller to accommodate the glass
block than make it larger, which requires reframing
the rough opening. To determine the rough opening
width, multiply the nominal width of the glass block
by the number of blocks horizontally, and add 1⁄4". For
the height, multiply the nominal height by the number
of blocks vertically and add 1⁄4".
Because of its weight, a glass block window
requires a solid base. The framing members of the
rough opening will need to be reinforced. Contact
your local building department for requirements in
your area.
Use 1⁄4" plastic T-spacers between blocks to ensure
consistent mortar joints and to support the weight
of the block to prevent mortar from squeezing out
before it sets. (T-spacers can be modified into L or
flat shapes for use at corners and along the channel.)
For best results, use premixed glass block mortar. This
high-strength mortar is a little drier than regular brick
mortar, because glass doesn’t wick water out of the
mortar as brick does.
Because there are many applications for glass
block, and installation techniques may vary, ask a glass Glass block windows add both light and privacy to a
block retailer or manufacturer about the best products bathroom, but keep in mind that glass block cannot be cut
and methods for your specific project. and it cannot be load bearing.
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■ How to Install a Glass Block Window
1 2
Jack
stud
Window
rough
opening
Rough sill
Cripple
studs
Sole
plate
Measure the size of the rough opening and determine the Cut the perimeter channel to length for the sill and side
size of the glass block window you will install (opposite page). jambs, mitering the ends at 45°. Align the front edge of
Reinforce the rough opening framing by doubling the rough sill the channel flush with the front edge of the exterior wall
and installing additional cripple studs. Cut all pieces to size and sheathing. Drill pilot holes every 12" through the channels
fasten with 16d common nails. (if not provided), and fasten the channels in place with 1"
galvanized flat‑head screws. Note: Paint the screw heads
white to help conceal them.
3 4
For the header, cut a channel to length, mitering the ends Set two blocks into the sill channel, one against each jamb—
at 45°, then cut it in half lengthwise using a utility knife. do not place mortar between blocks and channels. Place a 1⁄4" flat
Align one half of the channel flush with the exterior face spacer against the first block. Mix glass block mortar and liberally
of the sheathing, and fasten in place with 1" galvanized butter the leading edge of another block, then push it tight against
flat‑head screws. the first block. Make sure the joint is filled with mortar.
(continued)
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5 6
Lay the remainder of the first course, building from both At the top of the course, fill any depression at the top of
jambs toward the center. Use flat spacers between blocks to each mortar joint with mortar, insert a 1⁄4" T‑spacer, then lay a
maintain proper spacing. Plumb and level each block as you 3
⁄8" bed of mortar for the next course. Lay the blocks for each
work, then check the entire course for level. Tap blocks into course using T‑spacers to maintain proper spacing. Check each
place using the rubber handle of the trowel—do not use metal block for level and plumb as you work.
tools with glass block. Butter both sides of the final block in the
course to install it.
7 8
Test the mortar as you work. When it can resist light finger To ease block placement in the final course, use tin snips
pressure, remove the T‑spacers and pack mortar into the voids, to trim the outer tabs off one side of the T‑spacers. Install the
then tool the joints with a jointing tool. Remove excess mortar blocks of the final course. After the final block is installed, work
with a damp sponge, or a nylon or natural‑bristle brush. in any mortar that has been forced out of the joints.
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9 Expansion strip
10
Cut an expansion strip for the header 11⁄2" wide and to Clean the glass block thoroughly with a wet sponge,
length. Slide it between the top course of block and the header rinsing often. Allow the surface to dry, then remove cloudy
of the rough opening. Apply a bead of construction adhesive to residue with a clean, dry cloth. Caulk between glass block and
the top edge of the remaining half of the header channel, and channels, and between channels and framing members before
slide it between the expansion strip and header. installing the exterior trim. After the molding is installed, allow
mortar to cure for two weeks, then apply silicone caulk.
■ Glass Block Window Kits
Some glass block window kits do not require mortar. Preassembled glass or acrylic block windows are simple
Instead, the blocks are set into the perimeter channels and the to install. These vinyl‑clad units have a nailing flange around
joints are created using plastic spacer strips. Silicone caulk is the frame, which allows them to be hung using the same
then used to seal the joints. installation techniques used for standard windows.
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Wall & Floor
Projects
B athroom walls and floors are easy to ignore
because we tend to believe that only practical
(and boring) surfaces can be used in bathrooms. After
all, they need to be water resistant and easy to clean,
right? There are a couple of errors in that assumption.
Yes, bathroom walls and floors should be water
resistant, but that doesn’t mean they have to be utterly
impervious to moisture (unless, of course, they are
in a shower stall). You’d do well to avoid delicate wall
surfaces such as wallpaper or plain drywall with flat
paint, and absorbent floor materials, such as carpeting.
The other error many homeowners make when
considering bathroom walls and floors is to think that
traditional materials, such as glazed tile, are necessarily
dull and institutional in feel. This is most certainly not
true, as the following wall projects will bear out.
In this chapter:
• Hanging Cementboard
• Hanging Wall Tile
• Embellished Wall Tile
• Tiled Tub Apron
• Toilet Enclosure
• Radiant Heat Floor Mats
• Ceramic Tile Floor
• Sheet Vinyl Floor
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Hanging Cementboard
Cementboard
U se tile backer board as the substrate for tile walls
in wet areas. Unlike drywall, tile backer won’t
break down and cause damage if water gets behind Fiber-cement board
the tile. The three basic types of tile backer are
cementboard, fiber-cement board, and Dens-Shield.
Though water cannot damage either cementboard
or fiber-cement board, it can pass through them.
To protect the framing members, install a water Dens-Shield
barrier of 4-mil plastic or 15# building paper behind
the backer.
Dens-Shield has a waterproof acrylic facing that Common tile backers are cementboard, fiber-cement board,
and Dens-Shield. Cementboard is made from portland cement
provides the water barrier. It cuts and installs much
and sand reinforced by an outer layer of fiberglass mesh. Fiber-
like drywall, but requires galvanized screws to prevent cement board is made similarly, but with a fiber reinforcement
corrosion and must be sealed with caulk at all untaped integrated throughout the panel. Dens-Shield is a water-
joints and penetrations. resistant gypsum board with a waterproof acrylic facing.
Tools & Materials ▸
Work gloves Small masonry bits Stapler Latex-portland
Eye protection Hammer 4-mil plastic sheeting cement mortar
Utility knife or carbide- Jigsaw with a carbide Cementboard 15# building paper
tipped cutter grit blade 11⁄4" cementboard screws Spacers
T-square Taping knives Cementboard joint tape Screwgun
■ How to Hang Cementboard
1 2 3
Staple a water barrier of 4-mil Cut cementboard by scoring through Make cutouts for pipes and other
plastic sheeting or 15# building paper the mesh just below the surface with penetrations by drilling a series of
over the framing. Overlap seams by a utility knife or carbide-tipped cutter. holes through the board, using a small
several inches, and leave the sheets Snap the panel back, then cut through masonry bit. Tap the hole out with a
long at the perimeter. Note: Framing for the back-side mesh (inset). Note: For hammer or a scrap of pipe. Cut holes
cementboard must be 16" on center; tile applications, the rough face of the along edges with a jigsaw and carbide
steel studs must be 20-gauge. board is the front. grit blade.
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4 5
Install the sheets horizontally. Where possible, use full pieces to avoid butted Cover the joints and corners with
seams, which are difficult to fasten. If there are vertical seams, stagger them between cementboard joint tape (alkali-resistant
rows. Leave a 1⁄8" gap between sheets at vertical seams and corners. Use spacers to fiberglass mesh) and latex-portland
set the bottom row of panels 1⁄4" above the tub or shower base. Fasten the sheets cement mortar (thin-set). Apply a layer
with 11⁄4" cementboard screws, driven every 8" for walls and every 6" for ceilings. of mortar with a taping knife, embed the
Drive the screws at least 1⁄2" from the edges to prevent crumbling. If the studs are tape into the mortar, then smooth and
steel, don’t fasten within 1" of the top track. level the mortar.
■ Finishing Cementboard
Greenboard Paint
Paint
Ceramic tile adhesive
Joint compound
Tape Skim-coated joint compound
Trim tile
Ceramic tile adhesive
Grout
Cementboard
Regular tile
Cementboard
To finish a joint between cementboard and greenboard, To finish small areas of cementboard that will not be tiled,
seal the joint and exposed cementboard with ceramic tile seal the cementboard with ceramic tile adhesive, a mixture of
adhesive, a mixture of four parts adhesive to one part water. four parts adhesive to one part water, then apply a skim-coat
Embed paper joint tape into the adhesive, smoothing the tape of all-purpose drywall joint compound using a 12" drywall
with a taping knife. Allow the adhesive to dry, then finish the joint knife. Then prime and paint the wall.
with at least two coats of all-purpose drywall joint compound.
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Wall Tile Tools & Materials ▸
Tile-cutting tools Carpet
T ile is an ideal covering for walls in bathrooms. Marker Thinset tile mortar
Beautiful, practical, and easy to clean and Tape measure with latex additive
maintain, tile walls are well suited to bathrooms. 4-ft. level Ceramic wall tile
When shopping for tile, keep in mind that tiles Notched trowel Ceramic trim tile
that are at least 6" × 6" are easier to install than small Mallet (as needed)
tiles, because they require less cutting and cover Grout float 2×4
more surface area. Larger tiles also have fewer grout Grout sponge Carpet scrap
lines that must be cleaned and maintained. Check Soft cloth Tile grout with latex
out the selection of trim, specialty tiles, and ceramic Small paintbrush additive
accessories that are available to help you customize or foam brush Tub & tile caulk
your project. Caulk gun Alkaline grout sealer
Most wall tile is designed to have narrow grout Straight 1 × 2 Cardboard
lines (less than 1⁄8" wide) filled with unsanded grout. Scrap 2 × 4 Story stick/pole
Grout lines wider than 1⁄8" should be filled with
sanded floor-tile grout. Either type will last longer if it
contains, or is mixed with, a latex additive. To prevent
staining, it’s a good idea to seal your grout after it fully cannot be damaged by water, though moisture can pass
cures, then once a year thereafter. through it. To protect the framing, install a waterproof
You can use standard drywall or water-resistant membrane, such as roofing felt or polyethylene
drywall (called “greenboard”) as a backer for walls in sheeting, between the framing members and the
dry areas. In wet areas, install tile over cementboard. cementboard. Be sure to tape and finish the seams
Made from cement and fiberglass, cementboard between cementboard panels before laying the tile.
Tile is a practical, easy-to-maintain
choice for bathroom walls. The variety of
colors, shapes, and sizes ensure there’s a
tile for everyone. Keep in mind that larger
tiles are easier to install, maintain, and
clean than smaller tiles.
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■ How to Set Wall Tile
1 2
Design the layout and mark the reference lines. Begin Mix a small batch of thinset mortar containing a latex
installation with the second row of tiles above the floor. If the additive. (Some mortar has additive mixed in by the
layout requires cut tiles for this row, mark and cut the tiles for manufacturer and some must have additive mixed in
the entire row at one time. separately.) Cover the back of the first tile with adhesive,
using a 1⁄4" notched trowel.
3
Variation: Spread adhesive on a small section of the wall, Beginning near the center of the wall, apply the tile to the
then set the tiles into the adhesive. Thinset adhesive sets wall with a slight twisting motion, aligning it exactly with the
fast, so work quickly if you choose this installation method. horizontal and vertical reference lines. When placing cut tiles,
position the cut edges where they will be least visible.
(continued)
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4 5
Continue installing tiles, working from the center to the As small sections of tile are completed, set the tile by laying
sides in a pyramid pattern. Keep the tiles aligned with the a scrap of 2 × 4 wrapped with carpet onto the tile and rapping
reference lines. If the tiles are not self-spacing, use plastic it lightly with a mallet. This embeds the tile solidly in the
spacers inserted in the corner joints to maintain even grout adhesive and creates a flat, even surface.
lines. The base row should be the last row of full tiles installed.
Cut tile as necessary.
6 7
Spacers
Tile marked
for cutting
To mark tiles for straight cuts, begin by taping 1⁄8" spacers Install any trim tiles, such as the bullnose edge tiles shown
against the surfaces below and to the side of the tile. Position above, at border areas. Wipe away excess mortar along the top
a tile directly over the last full tile installed, then place a third edges of the edge tiles. Use bullnose and corner bullnose tiles
tile so the edge butts against the spacers. Trace the edge of (with two adjacent bullnose edges) at outside corners to cover
the top tile onto the middle tile to mark it for cutting. the rough edges of the adjoining tiles.
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8 9
Let mortar dry completely (12 to 24 hrs.), then mix a batch Wipe a damp grout sponge diagonally over the tile, rinsing
of grout containing latex additive. Apply the grout with a the sponge in cool water between wipes. Wipe each area only
rubber grout float, using a sweeping motion to force it deep once; repeated wiping can pull grout from the joints. Allow the
into the joints. Do not grout joints adjoining bathtubs, floors, or grout to dry for about 4 hours, then use a soft cloth to buff the
room corners. These will serve as expansion joints and will be tile surface and remove any remaining grout film.
caulked later.
10 11
When the grout has cured completely, use a small Seal expansion joints at the floor and corners with silicone
foam brush to apply grout sealer to the joints, following the caulk. After the caulk dries, buff the tile with a soft, dry cloth.
manufacturer’s directions. Avoid brushing sealer on the tile
surfaces, and wipe up excess sealer immediately.
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■ How to Install Wall Tile in a Bathtub Alcove
1 2
Horizontal
reference line
Midpoint
Tile
height
Beginning with the back wall, measure up and mark a Measure and mark the midpoint on the horizontal reference
point at a distance equal to the height of one ceramic tile (if line. Using a story stick, mark along the reference line where
the tub edge is not level, measure up from the lowest spot). the vertical grout joints will be located. If the story stick shows
Draw a level line through this point, along the entire back that the corner tiles will be less than half of a full tile width,
wall. This line represents a tile grout line and will be used as move the midpoint half the width of a tile in either direction
a reference line for making the entire tile layout. and mark (shown in next step).
3 4
Vertical
reference
line
Original
midpoint
Adjusted
midpoint
Use a level to draw a vertical reference line through the Use the story stick to mark the horizontal grout joints along
adjusted midpoint from the tub edge to the ceiling. Measure the vertical reference line, beginning at the mark for the top
up from the tub edge along the vertical reference line and row of tiles. If the cut tiles at the tub edge will be less than half
mark the rough height of the top row of tiles. the height of a full tile, move the top row up half the height of a
tile. Note: If tiling to a ceiling, evenly divide the tiles to be cut at
the ceiling and tub edge, as for the corner tiles.
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5 6
Adjusted horizontal
reference line
Use a level to draw an adjusted horizontal reference line Use a level to transfer the adjusted horizontal reference
through the vertical reference line at a grout joint mark close line from the back wall to both side walls, then follow Step 3
to the center of the layout. This splits the tile area into four through Step 6 to lay out both side walls. Adjust the layout as
workable quadrants. needed so the final column of tiles ends at the outside edge of
the tub. Use only the adjusted horizontal and vertical reference
lines for ceramic tile installation.
7 8
Mix a small batch of thinset mortar containing a latex Use the edge of the trowel to create furrows in the mortar.
additive. (Some mortar has additive mixed in by the Set the first tile in the corner of the quadrant where the lines
manufacturer and some must have additive mixed separately.) intersect, using a slight twisting motion. Align the tile exactly
Spread adhesive on a small section of the wall, along both legs with both reference lines. When placing cut tiles, position the
of one quadrant, using a 1⁄4" notched trowel. cut edges where they will be least visible.
(continued)
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9 10
Continue installing tiles, working from the center out into the field of the quadrant. Install trim tiles, such as the bullnose
Keep the tiles aligned with the reference lines and tile in one quadrant at a time. If the tiles shown above, at border areas.
tiles are not self-spacing, use plastic spacers inserted in the corner joints to maintain Wipe away excess mortar along the top
even grout lines (inset). The base row against the tub edge should be the last row of edges of the edge tiles.
tiles installed.
11 12
Mark and cut tiles to fit around all plumbing accessories or Install any ceramic accessories by applying thinset mortar
plumbing fixtures. to the back side, then pressing the accessory into place. Use
masking tape to support the weight until the mortar dries
(inset). Fill the tub with water, then seal expansion joints
around the bathtub, floor, and corners with silicone caulk.
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■ Tiling Bathroom Walls
Layout adjusted so the row Tiles at each end of the
of accent tiles is unbroken by same wall should be cut
medicine cabinet. to a similar size.
Row of trimmed tiles should
be positioned near the top Tiles above tub should be full
and bottom of tiled area to size or nearly full size.
make them less obvious.
Tiling an entire bathroom requires careful planning. The bathroom shown here was designed so that the tiles directly above
the bathtub (the most visible surface) are nearly full height. To accomplish this, cut tiles were used in the second row up from the
floor. The short second row also allows the row of accent tiles to run uninterrupted below the medicine cabinet. Cut tiles in both
corners should be of similar width to maintain a symmetrical look in the room.
Bullnose border tile
Greenboard
Cementboard
Cut tile panels
Accent
Vertical tile
reference lines
Cabinet Vertical
outlines reference
Original lines
reference
line
Adjusted
Cut tile reference line
The key to a successful wall‑tile project is the layout. Mark the wall to show the planned location of all wall cabinets,
fixtures, and wall accessories, then locate the most visible horizontal line in the bathroom, which is usually the top edge of the
bathtub. Use a story stick to see how the tile pattern will run in relation to the other features in the room. After establishing the
working reference lines, mark additional vertical reference lines on the walls every 5 to 6 tile spaces along the adjusted horizontal
reference line to split large walls into smaller, workable quadrants, then install the tile. Note: Premixed, latex mastic adhesives are
generally acceptable for wall tile in dry areas.
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Wall tile can be spruced up, even modernized, simply by removing and replacing just a section of it with a decorative accent
that suits your style.
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Embellished Wall Tile Tools & Materials ▸
Tape measure Masking tape
M any of us live with tile we don’t particularly like. Grout saw Safety glasses
It’s easy to see why: builders and remodelers Grout scraper Drywall screws
often install simple, neutral tile in an effort not to put Flat head screwdriver Cementboard
anyone off. Older homes sometimes have tile that’s Straightedge Construction adhesive
not quite vintage but certainly no longer stylish. Or, a Utility knife Drywall screws
previous owner might just have had different tastes. Drill Thinset mortar
Because tile is so long-lasting, new styles and trends
1
⁄4" notched trowel Mosaic medallion or
often overtake it and make it look dated. Here’s a bit Grout float decorative tile
of good news: there’s a choice beyond simply living Grout sponge Tile spacers
with it or tearing out perfectly good tile to start over. Buff rag Grout
Removing a section of boring tile and replacing it Foam brush Latex additive
with some decorative accent tile can transform a plain Needlenose pliers Grout sealer
wall into one that makes a unique design statement. And Drop cloth Dust mask
while a project like this requires a bit of demolition, it Grease pencil
can be done with very little mess and fuss. Because it
involves breaking the seal of the wall surface, it’s a better
choice for a tiled wall that gets little exposure to water
(as opposed to a shower wall or tub deck). the grout surrounding the tile on the project wall. If you
The new tile you install will need to be grouted, and are tiling two or more walls, regrout the whole room.
the new grout undoubtedly will be a different color. The This project is easier if you don’t have to cut any
only way to blend the new tile into the old is to regrout the existing tile. It’s not especially difficult if you do, but
entire area. If the project involves only one wall and the it’s always best to know what you’re getting into before
same grout color is still available, it is necessary to remove committing to a project.
■ How to Embellish a Tiled Wall
1 2
Measure the decorative tiles and draw a detailed plan for Protect the floor with a drop cloth. So you can patch the tile
your project. Indicate a removal area at least one tile larger backer, you’ll need to remove a section of tile that’s a minimum
than the space required. If it will be necessary to cut tile, create of one tile all around the project installation area. Using a grease
a plan that will result in symmetrical tiles. pencil, mark the tiles to be removed, according to the plan
drawing. Put masking tape on the edges of the bordering tiles
that will remain to keep them from being scratched or otherwise
damaged by the grout saw. If you will be reinstalling some of the
old tiles, protect them as well.
(continued)
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3 4 5
Wearing eye protection and a dust With a flathead screwdriver, pry up Draw cutting lines on the drywall that
mask, use a grout saw to cut grooves in the edges of the tile at the center of the are at least 1⁄2" inside the borders of the
all of the grout lines in the removal area. removal area. Wiggle the blade toward area where you removed tiles. Using a
If the grout lines are soft this will only the center of the tile and pry up to pop straightedge and utility knife, carefully
take one or two passes. If the grout’s it off. cut out the old drywall. If the tile comes
hard, it may take several. Using a grout off very easily and the tile backer is not
scraper, remove any remaining material damaged, you may be able to scrape it
in the joint. Angle the tools toward the clean and reuse it.
open area to protect the tile.
6 7 8
Cut cementboard strips that are Cut a cementboard patch to fit the Cover the edges with wallboard tape.
slightly longer than the width of the opening in the tile backer. Place the Mix a small batch of thinset mortar.
opening. Insert the strips into the patch in the opening and drive drywall Apply the mortar, using a notched
opening and orient them so the ends screws through the cementboard and trowel to spread it evenly.
are pressed against the back surface of into the backer strips. Also drive screws
the tile backer. Drive wallboard screws at any stud locations.
through the edges of the old tile backer
and into the strips to hold them in place.
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9 10 11
Gently press the accent tiles into Use a damp sponge to soak the Mix a batch of grout and fill the joints
the adhesive, smoothing it from the protective sheet on the tile. Once wet, between tile on the entire wall, one
center toward the edges. Let the mortar slide the sheet off and throw it away. section at a time. (Inset) Clean the tile
cure as directed. with a damp sponge. Occasionally rinse
the sponge in cool water.
Design Suggestions ▸
Inserts add interest, texture, and color to tile This stone insert adds a contemporary flair to a simple
designs. This piece combines tumbled stone with tile design.
marble in a delicate floral motif.
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Tiled Tub Apron Tools & Materials ▸
Stud finder Carbide paper
Y our dream bathroom is dressed to the nines, but Tape measure or wet stone
that alcove bathtub is as plain as can be. You Circular saw Wide painter’s tape
probably appreciated that prefab apron when you were Drill Grout
installing the tub, but now it’s time to beautify it. One Hammer Silicone caulk
Level Grout sealer
way to improve the appearance of a plain apron and
Tile cutting tools Permanent marker
create the look of a built-in tub is simply to build and
Utility knife Notched trowel
tile a short wall in front of the tub. All it takes is a
Grout float Rubbing alcohol
little simple framing and a few square feet of tile.
Grout sponge
The basic strategy is to construct a 2 × 4 stub Buff rag
wall in front of the tub apron, and then tile the top Foam brush
and front of the wall. One design option is to try and 2 × 4 lumber
match existing tile, but it’s unlikely you’ll be able to Construction adhesive
find the exact tile unless it’s relatively new. Choosing 21⁄2" screws
complementary or contrasting tile is usually a better Cementboard
bet. Ask your tile retailer to direct you to families of Drywall screws
tile with multiple shapes and accessories. Tile
Be sure to include a waterproof backer Thinset mortar
(cementboard is recommended) and get a good grout Scrap of carpet
seal, since the stub wall will be in a wet area.
An old, boring bathtub can be spruced up to match a newly remodeled dream bathroom by building and tiling a stub wall to
dress up the tub apron.
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■ How to Build a Tiled Tub Wall
1 2
Measure the distance of the tub rim from the floor, as well Cut the 2 × 4s to length for the base plate and top plate (581⁄2"
as the distance from one wall to the other at the ends of the long as shown). Cut the studs (five 11" pieces as shown). Set
tub. Allowing for the thickness of the tiles, create a layout and the base plate on edge and lay out the studs, spacing them
draw a detailed plan of your project, spacing the studs 16" 16" on center. Make sure the first and last studs are perfectly
apart on center. parallel with the end of the base plate, then drive two 21⁄2"
screws through the base plate and each stud.
3 4
Draw a placement line on the floor using a permanent Drive two or three 21⁄2" screws through the studs and into
marker. Spread a generous bead of construction adhesive on the room walls at each end of the stub wall. If the stub wall
the bottom of the base plate. Align the base plate with the does not happen to line up with any wall studs, drive at least
placement line and set it into position. Put concrete blocks two 3" deck screws toenail-style through the stub wall and into
or other weights between the studs to anchor the base the room wall sole plate.
plate to the flooring and let the adhesive cure according
to manufacturer’s instructions.
(continued)
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5 6
Set the top plate on the stud wall and attach it using two Cut cementboard to fit the front (141⁄2" as shown). With
21⁄2" screws for each stud. Offset the screws slightly to increase the factory-finished edge of the cementboard at the top
the strength of the assembly. The top of the stud wall should of the wall, attach the cementboard to the studs using
be 21⁄2" below the top of the tub. drywall screws.
7 8
Cut cementboard to fit the top of the stub wall (31⁄2"). With Design the layout and mark reference lines on the wall.
the factory-finished edge facing the tub edge, attach the Draw horizontal and vertical reference lines for the corner
cement board to the top plate using drywall screws. tile (used to transition from vertical to horizontal at the
top stub wall edge) and the coved base tile (if your project
includes them, as ours does). Lay out tile along the floor,
including spacers.
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9 10
Start tiling at the bottom of the wall. Lay out the bottom Beginning at the center intersection of the vertical field
row of tile on the floor, using spacers if necessary. Adjust the area, apply mortar using a notched trowel to spread it evenly.
layout to make end tiles balanced in size. Mark and cut the tiles Cover as much area as required for a few field tiles. Install the
as necessary, and then smooth any sharp edges with carbide field tiles, keeping the grout lines in alignment.
paper or a wet stone. Mix a small batch of thinset mortar and
install the base tiles by buttering the backs with mortar.
11 12
Finish installing the field tiles up to the horizontal line Apply thinset mortar to the backs of the accent tiles and
marking the accent tile location. install them in a straight line. The grout lines will likely not align
with the field tile grout lines.
(continued)
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13 14
Install corner tiles to create a rounded transition at the Fill in the top course of field tile on the wall face between
top edge of the wall. Install these before you install the the accent tiles and the corner tiles. If you have planned well
filed tiles in the top row of the wall face or on the top of the you won’t need to trim the field tiles to fit. (If you need to cut
stub wall (corner tiles are virtually impossible to cut if your tiles to create the correct wall height, choose the tiles in the
measurements are off). Dry-lay the top row of tiles. Mark and first row of field tiles.)
cut tile if necessary.
15 16
Remove the dry‑lay row of tile along the top of the wall. Mix a batch of grout and use a grout float to force it into the
Shield the edge of the tub with painter’s tape, then spread joints between the tiles. Keep the space between the top field
thinset adhesive on the wall and begin to lay tile. Keep the tiles and the tub clear of grout to create space for a bead of
joints of the field tiles on the top aligned with the grout joints silicone caulk between the tub and tile.
of the field tile on the face of the wall.
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17 18
Remove excess grout and clean the tile using a damp After 24 hours, clean the area with rubbing alcohol where
sponge. Rinse the sponge often. the tile and tub meet, then put tape on the edge of the tub
and the face of the tile. Apply clear silicone caulk into the gap,
overfilling it slightly.
19 20
Smooth the caulk with a moistened plastic straw or a When the grout has cured completely (consult
moistened fingertip to create an even finish. Make sure this manufacturer’s directions), apply grout sealer to the joints.
spot is well sealed as it is a prime spot for water to penetrate
into the tub wall.
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Toilet Enclosure
O ne of the best ways to make a busy family
bathroom more usable is to enclose the toilet
in a room of its own. Toilet enclosures—originally
the ventilation function, but you’ll still need to install
lighting for nighttime use.)
When it comes to toilet enclosures, more room
called “water closets” after the cistern they is always better. If you can dedicate extra space to
enclosed—make a privacy compartment within the the enclosure, you’ll not only make the space more
bathroom. This allows one person to shower while comfortable, you’ll be able to add nice finishing touches
the other uses the toilet. It also effectively hides the such as a magazine rack or shelves for candles.
fixture that most people think is the sore thumb of
the bathroom.
Although toilet enclosures are basic structures
comprised of framed walls and a pre-hung door, they Tools & Materials ▸
must be built to maintain adequate spacing around
the toilet for maximum comfort and to meet local Prehung door unit Circular saw
codes. As a general rule of thumb, you want to leave Hammer Drill
at least 15" from the center of the toilet bowl to the 16d nails Drywall
wall surface on either side, and at least 21" from the Screwdriver Handsaw
front of the bowl to the door. You may also want to add 2 × 4 lumber Utility knife
baffles or soundproofing inside the walls, to make the Drywall tape Wall compound
space as private as possible. Prehung door Interior door lockset
The enclosure shown here includes a combination Wood shims Door trim
lighting/ventilation fixture. Both are absolute musts Quarter-round molding Silicone caulk
for appropriate hygiene and comfort, even if they are Stud finder Fiberglass insulation
not mandated by local codes. (A window can serve
A full enclosure with a door offers
the maximum in privacy, but it may be
a more extreme solution than you
require. A simple partition wall next to
the toilet creates a sense of privacy
without any claustrophobia.
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■ How to Build a Toilet Enclosure
1 2
Carefully plan out the enclosure. Sketch your plans with Run wiring and ducting for lighting and ventilation as
exact dimensions to ensure that you allow proper space necessary. Install box for overhead fixture and run wire for
between toilet and walls, and to ensure door swing won’t switch. We installed a combination light/vent fan (see page 200)
impede the shower, vanity drawers, or other fixtures. connected to an interior wall switch placed just on the latch-side
of the enclosure wall. The fixture can be run off the light switch
circuit for the entire bathroom if that circuit has the capacity.
3 4
Check existing connection walls for plumb and square. Cut Secure sole plates to floor. Plates installed over resilient
the sole and top plates accordingly, compensating as needed flooring as shown here, can be nailed through to subfloor.
for any variances. Place top and sole plates side by side and When installing over a tile floor, use a masonry bit to drill pilot
mark stud locations, 16” on center. holes and then screw through to subfloor. (Over mosaic floors,
it’s best to remove the tiles from under sole plate and secure
the plate directly to subfloor.)
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5
Use a stud finder to locate ceiling joists, and then nail the top plates into place. Frame out the walls by toe-nailing studs between
top and sole plates as marked. Frame L-corner for walls, as shown (inset).
6 7
Frame the doorway with header, cripple studs, and jack Hang drywall on the framed walls, inside and out. The
studs (you should purchase your prehung door first, so that enclosure here was clad with standard drywall rather than
you can double-check the opening measurements against the greenboard, because the walls won’t be subjected to any
actual door unit). direct moisture contact. If the enclosure abuts a shower or
bath, use greenboard or cementboard.
(continued)
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8 9
Position the prehung door in place. Check that it is Shim all around the jamb (specifically, behind hinges and
oriented correctly, to open out from the enclosure and lockset location) until the door unit is plumb and square in the
against a wall, rather than blocking the central space or opening, and the door opens smoothly. Nail through the door
opening against the vanity. jambs into the framing at the shim points.
10 Use the Wall Cavity ▸
Because the partition wall you’ve built is essentially
empty, it is a good candidate for installing niche
fittings that are recessed into the wall. A recessed
toilet tissue holder is one easy to install fitting. Space
Saw the shims off flush. Measure, cut and nail the trim for will be fairly tight in your enclosure, so using the wall
the door in place. Putty and sand over the nail heads on jambs
space makes a lot of sense. A wall niche magazine
and casework.
rack or niches shelving are just two additional ways
you may use the wall cavity space.
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11 12
Finish the drywall surfaces with tape and joint compound. Paint the enclosure walls and add any additional elements,
Work as neatly as you can to minimize sanding. Seal the new including paper holders, grab bars, and shelves or cabinets.
drywall with drywall primer before you paint. The wall area behind the toilet tank is a good spot for installing
shallow shelving, but keep it at least 3 ft. above the tank lid.
13
Attach base quarter‑round molding on bottom of walls, inside and out (or cove molding if you prefer). Apply a coat of silicone
caulk to the bottom of molding before nailing it in place.
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Radiant Heat Floor Tools & Materials ▸
Vacuum cleaner Trowel or rubber float
F loor-warming systems require very little energy to Multimeter Conduit
run and are designed to heat ceramic tile floors Tape measure Thinset mortar
only; they generally are not used as sole heat sources Scissors Thermostat with sensor
for rooms. Router/rotary tool Junction box(es)
A typical floor-warming system consists of one or Marker Tile or stone
more thin mats containing electric resistance wires Electric wire fault floorcovering
that heat up when energized like an electric blanket. indicator (optional) Drill
The mats are installed beneath the tile and are Hot glue gun Double-sided
hardwired to a 120-volt GFCI circuit. A thermostat Radiant floor mats carpet tape
controls the temperature, and a timer turns the system 12/2 NM cable Cable clamps
off automatically.
The system shown in this project includes two
plastic mesh mats, each with its own power lead that
is wired directly to the thermostat. Radiant mats may Electrical service required for a floor-warming
be installed over a plywood subfloor, but if you plan system is based on size. A smaller system may
to install floor tile you should put down a base of connect to an existing GFCI circuit, but a larger
cementboard first, and then install the mats on top of one will need a dedicated circuit; follow the
the cementboard. manufacturer’s requirements.
A crucial part of installing this system is to use To order a floor-warming system, contact the
a multimeter to perform several resistance checks to manufacturer or dealer (see Resources, page 283).
make sure the heating wires have not been damaged In most cases, you can send them plans and they’ll
during shipping or installation. custom-fit a system for your project area.
A radiant floor‑warming system
employs electric heating mats that are
covered with floor tile to create a floor
that’s cozy underfoot.
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Installation Tips ▸
Thermostat
Dedicated circuit cable
Timer
Thermostat sensor wire
Electrical conduit
Power lead
Heating mats
Floor tile
Thinset mortar
Heating mat
Concrete or cementboard underlayment
A floor‑warming system requires a dedicated circuit to
power and control its heating mats, thermostat, and timer.
• Each radiant mat must have a direct connection to the power lead from the thermostat, with the connection made in
a junction box in the wall cavity. Do not install mats in series.
• Do not install radiant floor mats under shower areas.
• Do not overlap mats or let them touch.
• Do not cut heating wire or damage heating wire insulation.
• The distance between wires in adjoining mats should equal the distance between wire loops measured center
to center.
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■ Installing a Radiant Floor‑Warming System
Floor‑warming systems must be installed on a circuit with An electric wire fault indicator monitors each floor mat for
adequate amperage and a GFCI breaker. Smaller systems may continuity during the installation process. If there is a break in
tie into an existing circuit, but larger ones need a dedicated continuity (for example, if a wire is cut) an alarm sounds. If you
circuit. Follow local building and electrical codes that apply to choose not to use an installation tool to monitor the mat, test
your project. for continuity frequently using a multimeter.
■ How To Install a Radiant Floor‑Warming System
1 2
Install electrical boxes to house the thermostat and timer. Drill access holes in the sole plate for the power leads
In most cases, the box should be located 60" above floor level. that are preattached to the mats (they should be over 10 ft.
Use a 4"‑deep × 4"‑wide double‑gang box for the thermostat/ long). The leads should be connected to a supply wire from the
timer control if your kit has an integral model. If your timer thermostat in a junction box located in a wall near the floor
and thermostat are separate, install a separate single box for and below the thermostat box. The access hole for each mat
the timer. should be located directly beneath the knockout for that cable
in the thermostat box. Drill through the sill plate vertically and
horizontally so the holes meet in an L‑shape.
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3 4
Clean the floor surface thoroughly to get rid of any debris
that could potentially damage the wire mats. A vacuum cleaner
generally does a more effective job than a broom.
5
Test for resistance using a multimeter set to measure
ohms. This is a test you should make frequently during
the installation, along with checking for continuity. If the
resistance is off by more than 10% from the theoretical
resistance listing (see manufacturer’s chart in installation
instructions), contact a technical support operator for the kit
manufacturer. For example, the theoretical resistance for the
1 × 50 ft. mat seen here is 19, so the ohms reading should be
between 17 and 21.
6
Run conduit from the electrical boxes to the sill plate.
The line for the supply cable should be 3⁄4" conduit. If you
are installing multiple mats, the supply conduit should feed
into a junction box about 6" above the sill plate and then
continue into the 3⁄4" hole you drilled for the supply leads. The
sensor wire needs only 1⁄2" conduit that runs straight from Finalize your mat layout plan. Most radiant floor warming
the thermostat box via the thermostat. The mats should be mat manufacturers will provide a layout plan for you at the
powered by a dedicated 20‑amp GFCI circuit of 12/2 NM cable time of purchase, or they will give you access to an online
run from your main service panel to the electrical box (this is design tool so you can come up with your own plan. This is
for 120‑volt mats—check your instruction manual for specific an important step to the success of your project, and the
circuit recommendations). assistance is free.
(continued)
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7 8
Unroll the radiant mat or mats and allow them to settle. Finalize the mat layout and then test the resistance
Arrange the mat or mats according to the plan you created. again using a multimeter. Also check for continuity in several
It’s okay to cut the plastic mesh so you can make curves different spots. If there is a problem with any of the mats, you
or switchbacks, but do not cut the heating wire under any should identify it and correct it before proceeding with the
circumstances, even to shorten it. mortar installation.
9
Run the thermostat sensor wire from the electrical box Variation: If your local codes require it, roll the mats out of
down the 1⁄2" conduit raceway and out the access hole in the the way and cut a channel for the sensor and the sensor wires
sill plate. Select the best location for the thermostat sensor and into the floor or floor underlayment. For most floor materials,
mark the location onto the flooring. Also mark the locations of a spiral cutting tool does a quick and neat job of this task.
the wires that connect to and lead from the sensor. Remove any debris.
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10 11
Bond the mats to the floor. If the mats in your system have Cover the floor installation areas with a layer of thinset
adhesive strips, peel off the adhesive backing and roll out mortar that is thick enough to fully encapsulate all the wires
the mats in the correct position, pressing them against the and mats (usually around 1⁄4" in thickness). Check the wires
floor to set the adhesive. If your mats have no adhesive, bind for continuity and resistance regularly and stop working
them with strips of double‑sided carpet tape. The thermostat immediately if there is a drop in resistance or a failure of
sensor and the power supply leads should be attached with continuity. Allow the mortar to dry overnight.
hot glue (inset photo) and run up into their respective holes in
the sill plate if you have not done this already. Test all mats for
resistance and continuity.
12 13
Connect the power supply leads from the mat or mats to Connect the sensor wire and the power supply lead
the NM cable coming from the thermostat inside the junction (from the junction box) to the thermostat/timer according
box near the sill. Power must be turned off. The power leads to the manufacturer’s directions. Attach the device to the
should be cut so about 8" of wire feeds into the box. Be sure to electrical box, restore power, and test the system to make sure
use cable clamps to protect the wires. it works. Once you are convinced that it is operating properly,
install floor tiles and repair the wall surfaces.
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Ceramic Tile Floor Tools & Materials ▸
1
⁄4" square trowel Thin-set mortar
C eramic tile installation starts with determining Rubber mallet Tile
the best layout. You snap perpendicular reference Tile cutter Tile spacers
lines and dry-fit tiles to ensure the best placement. Tile nippers Grout
When setting tiles, work in small sections so Hand-held tile cutter Latex grout additive
the mortar doesn’t dry before the tiles are set. Use Needlenose pliers Wall adhesive
spacers between tiles to ensure consistent spacing. Grout float 2 × 4 lumber
Plan an installation sequence to avoid kneeling on set Grout sponge Grout sealer
tiles. Be careful not to kneel or walk on tiles until the Soft cloth Tile caulk
designated drying period is over. Small paint brush Sponge brush
Floor tile can be laid in many decorative patterns, but for your first effort stick to a basic grid. In most cases, floor tile is combined
with profiled base tile (installed after flooring).
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1 2
Make sure the subfloor is smooth, level, and stable. Fasten it in place with 11⁄4" cementboard screws. Place
Spread thin‑set mortar on the subfloor for one sheet of fiberglass‑mesh wallboard tape over the seams. Cover the
cementboard. Place the cementboard on the mortar, keeping a remainder of the floor.
1
⁄4" gap along the walls.
3 4
Draw reference lines and establish the tile layout (see Set the first tile in the corner of the quadrant where the
page 229). Mix a batch of thin‑set mortar, then spread the reference lines intersect. When setting tiles that are 8" square
mortar evenly against both reference lines of one quadrant, or larger, twist each tile slightly as you set it into position.
using a 1⁄4" square‑notched trowel. Use the notched edge of
the trowel to create furrows in the mortar bed.
(continued)
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5
Using a soft rubber mallet, gently tap the central area of Variation: For large tiles or uneven stone, use a larger trowel
each tile a few times to set it evenly into the mortar. with notches that are at least 1⁄2" deep.
6
Variation: For mosaic sheets, use a 3⁄16" V‑notched trowel To ensure consistent spacing between tiles, place plastic
to spread the mortar and a grout float to press the sheets tile spacers at the corners of the set tile. With mosaic sheets,
into the mortar. Apply pressure gently to avoid creating an use spacers equal to the gaps between tiles.
uneven surface.
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7 8
Position and set adjacent tiles into the mortar along To make sure the tiles are level with one another, place
the reference lines. Make sure the tiles fit neatly against a straight piece of 2 × 4 across several tiles, then tap the board
the spacers. with a mallet.
9 10
Lay tile in the remaining area covered with mortar. Repeat Measure and mark tiles to fit against walls and into corners.
steps 2 to 7, continuing to work in small sections, until you Cut the tiles to fit. Apply thin‑set mortar directly to the back of
reach walls or fixtures. the cut tiles, instead of the floor, using the notched edge of the
trowel to furrow the mortar.
(continued)
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11 12
Set the cut pieces of tile into position. Press down on the Measure, cut, and install tiles that require notches or curves
tile until each piece is level with adjacent tiles. to fit around obstacles, such as exposed pipes or toilet drains.
13 14
Carefully remove the spacers with needlenose pliers Apply mortar and set tiles in the remaining quadrants,
before the mortar hardens. completing one quadrant before starting the next. Inspect all
of the tile joints and use a utility knife or grout knife to remove
any high spots of mortar that could show through the grout.
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15 16
Install threshold material in doorways. If the threshold is Prepare a small batch of floor grout to fill the tile joints.
too long for the doorway, cut it to fit with a jigsaw or circular When mixing grout for porous tile, such as quarry or natural
saw and a tungsten‑carbide blade. Set the threshold in thin‑set stone, use an additive with a release agent to prevent grout
mortar so the top is even with the tile. Keep the same space from bonding to the tile surfaces.
between the threshold as between tiles. Let the mortar set for
at least 24 hours.
17 18
Starting in a corner, pour the grout over the tile. Use a Use the grout float to remove excess grout from the surface
rubber grout float to spread the grout outward from the corner, of the tile. Wipe diagonally across the joints, holding the float in
pressing firmly on the float to completely fill the joints. For best a near‑vertical position. Continue applying grout and wiping off
results, tilt the float at a 60° angle to the floor and use a figure excess until about 25 sq. ft. of the floor has been grouted.
eight motion.
(continued)
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Wipe a damp grout sponge diagonally over about 2 sq. ft. Allow the grout to dry for about 4 hours, then use a
of the floor at a time. Rinse the sponge in cool water between soft cloth to buff the tile surface and remove any remaining
wipes. Wipe each area only once since repeated wiping can grout film.
pull grout back out of joints. Repeat steps 15 to 18 to apply.
21
Apply grout sealer to the grout lines, using a small sponge Variation: Use a tile sealer to seal porous tile, such as quarry
brush or sash brush. Avoid brushing sealer on tile surfaces. tile or unglazed tile. Following the manufacturer’s instructions,
Wipe up any excess sealer immediately. roll a thin coat of sealer over the tile and grout joints, using a
paint roller and extension handle.
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■ How to Install Bullnose Base Trim
1 2 3
Dry‑fit the tiles to determine the Leaving a 1⁄8" expansion gap between Begin installing base‑trim tiles at an
best spacing. Grout lines in base tile do tiles at corners, mark any contour inside corner. Use a notched trowel to
not always align with grout lines in the cuts necessary to allow the coved apply wall adhesive to the back of the
floor tile. Use rounded bullnose tiles edges to fit together. Use a jigsaw with tile. Place 1⁄8" spacers on the floor under
at outside corners, and mark tiles for a tungsten‑carbide blade to make each tile to create an expansion joint.
cutting as needed. curved cuts.
4 5 6
Press the tile onto the wall. Use a double‑bullnose tile on one After the adhesive dries, grout the
Continue setting tiles, using spacers to side of outside corners to cover the vertical joints between tiles and apply
maintain 1⁄8" gaps between the tiles and edge of the adjoining tile. grout along the tops of the tiles to make
1
⁄8" expansion joints between the tiles a continuous grout line. Once the grout
and floor. hardens, fill the expansion joint between
the tiles and floor with caulk.
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Sheet Vinyl Flooring Tools & Materials ▸
Linoleum knife Heat gun
P reparing a perfect underlayment is the most Framing square 1
⁄16" V-notched trowel
important phase of resilient sheet vinyl Compass Straightedge
installation. Cutting the material to fit the contours Scissors Vinyl flooring
of the room is a close second. The best way to Non-permanent Masking tape
ensure accurate cuts is to make a cutting template. felt-tipped pen Heavy butcher
Some manufacturers offer template kits, or you Utility knife or brown
can make one by following the instructions on the Straightedge wrapping paper
opposite page. Be sure to use the recommended
1
⁄4" V-notched trowel Duct tape
adhesive for the sheet vinyl you are installing. Many J-roller Flooring adhesive
manufacturers require that you use their glue for Stapler 3
⁄8" staples
installation. Use extreme care when handling the Flooring roller Metal threshold bars
sheet vinyl, especially felt-backed products, to avoid Chalk line Nails
creasing and tearing.
Resilient sheet vinyl is a very popular choice for bathroom floors because it is resistant to moisture and easy to clean. It is also
relatively inexpensive, but you will find that the style and design options are more limited than with some other floorcovering types.
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■ How to Make a Cutting Template
1 2
Place sheets of heavy butcher paper or brown wrapping Follow the outline of the room, working with one sheet
paper along the walls, leaving a 1⁄8" gap. Cut triangular holes in of paper at a time. Overlap the edges of adjoining sheets by
the paper with a utility knife. Fasten the template to the floor about 2" and tape the sheets together.
by placing masking tape over the holes.
3 4
To fit the template around pipes, tape sheets of paper on Transfer the measurement to a separate piece of paper.
either side. Measure the distance from the wall to the center of Use a compass to draw the pipe diameter on the paper, then
the pipe, then subtract 1⁄8". cut out the hole with scissors or a utility knife. Cut a slit from
the edge of the paper to the hole.
5 6
Fit the hole cutout around the pipe. Tape the hole When completed, roll or loosely fold the paper template
template to the adjoining sheets. for carrying.
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■ How to Install Perimeter‑bond Sheet Vinyl
1 2 3
Unroll the flooring on any large, flat, For two‑piece installations, Make a paper template (see page
clean surface. To prevent wrinkles, sheet overlap the edges of the sheets by at 261) and position it. Trace the outline of
vinyl comes from the manufacturer least 2". Plan to have the seams fall the template onto the flooring using a
rolled with the pattern‑side out. Unroll along the pattern lines or simulated non‑permanent felt‑tipped pen.
the sheet and turn it pattern‑side up grout joints. Align the sheets so the
for marking. pattern matches, then tape the sheets
together with duct tape.
4 5 6
Remove the template. Cut the sheet Cut holes for pipes and other Roll up the flooring loosely and
vinyl with a sharp linoleum knife or permanent obstructions. Cut a slit from transfer it to the installation area. Do
a utility knife with a new blade. Use each hole to the nearest edge of the not fold the flooring. Unroll and position
a straightedge as a guide for making flooring. Whenever possible, make slits the sheet vinyl carefully. Slide the edges
longer cuts. along pattern lines. beneath undercut door casings.
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7 8 9
Cut the seams for two‑piece Remove both pieces of scrap Fold back the edges of both sheets.
installations using a straightedge as flooring. The pattern should now run Apply a 3" band of multipurpose flooring
a guide. Hold the straightedge tightly continuously across the adjoining adhesive to the underlayment or old
against the flooring, and cut along the sheets of flooring. flooring, using a 1⁄4" V‑notched trowel or
pattern lines through both pieces of wallboard knife.
vinyl flooring.
10 11 12
Lay the seam edges one at a time onto Apply flooring adhesive underneath If you’re applying flooring over a
the adhesive. Make sure the seam is tight, flooring cuts at pipes or posts and wood underlayment, fasten the outer
pressing the gaps together with your around the entire perimeter of the edges of the sheet with 3⁄8" staples
fingers, if needed. Roll the seam edges room. Roll the flooring with the roller to driven every 3". Make sure the staples
with a J‑roller or wallpaper seam roller. ensure good contact with the adhesive. will be covered by the base molding.
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Accessories
& Upgrades
T he accessories you include in a bathroom remodel
or new design are the finishing touches that add
immeasurably to the room’s decor and function. This
is your chance to add simple but big-impact luxuries
such as towel warmers and fog-free mirrors.
Whenever possible, anchor permanently mounted
accessories to wall studs or blocking for maximum
holding power. If no studs or blocking are located
in the area where accessories will be installed, use
toggle bolts or molly bolts to anchor the accessories
to drywall or plaster walls.
In this chapter:
• Medicine Cabinets
• Grab Bars
• Tilting Wall Mirrors
• Mirror Defoggers
• Glass Shelving
• Towel Warmers
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Medicine Cabinets
C ommon bathroom cabinets include vanities,
medicine cabinets, linen cabinets, and “tank
topper” cabinets that mount over the toilet area. See
pages 32 to 35 for more information on cabinets.
When installing cabinets in a damp location, like a
bathroom, choose the best cabinets you can afford. Look
for quality indicators, like doweled construction, hardwood
doors and drawers, and high-gloss, moisture-resistant
finishes. Avoid cabinets with sides or doors that are painted
on one side and finished with laminate or veneer on the
other because these cabinets are more likely to warp.
Tools & Materials ▸
Electronic stud finder Bar clamp
Level Framing square
Pry bar Duplex nails
Hammer 10d common nails
Screwdriver Finish nails
Drill 1 × 4 lumber
Circular saw 21⁄2" wood screws
Reciprocating saw Wood shims A medicine cabinet is wall‑mounted or recessed above
Pencil Cabinet a lavatory sink. They are better suited for storing toiletries
than medicine.
■ How to Install a Surface‑Mounted Cabinet
1 2 3
Locate the wall studs and mark them Attach a temporary ledger board Attach the cabinet to the wall at the
clearly on the wall surface. Draw a level (usually 1 × 4) just below the lower level stud locations by drilling pilot holes and
line at the desired top height of the line using duplex nails. Rest the base of driving wood screws. Remove the ledger
cabinet body, then measure and mark the cabinet on the ledger and hold it in when finished, and patch the nail holes
a second line to indicate the bottom of place or brace it with 2 × 4s. with drywall compound.
the cabinet.
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■ How to Install a Recessed Cabinet
1 2 3
Header
Sill
plate
Locate the first stud beyond either Mark a rough opening 1⁄2" taller than Frame out the top and bottom of
side of the planned cabinet location, the cabinet frame onto the exposed the rough opening by installing a header
then remove the wall surface between wall studs. Add 11⁄2" for each header and and a sill plate between the cut wall
the studs. (Removing the wall surface all sill plate, then cut out the studs in the studs. Make sure the header and sill
the way to the ceiling simplifies patch rough opening area. plate are level, then nail them in place
work.) Cut along the center of the studs, with 10d common nails.
using a circular saw with the blade depth
set to the thickness of the wall surface.
4 5
Header
Rough
opening
Sill
plate
Cripple studs
Mark the rough opening width on the header and sill Position the cabinet in the opening. Check it for level with
plates, centering the opening over the sink. Cut and nail jack a carpenter’s level, then attach the cabinet by drilling pilot
studs between the header and the sill plate, just outside the holes and driving wood screws through the top and bottom of
rough opening marks. Install any wiring for new light fixtures the cabinet sides and into the wall studs, header, and sill plate.
and receptacles, then patch the wall where necessary. Attach the doors, shelves, and hardware.
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Grab Bars
B athrooms are beautiful with their shiny ceramic
tubs, showers, and floors, but add water and
moisture to the mix and you’ve created the perfect
conditions for a fall. The good news is many falls in
the bathroom can be avoided by installing grab bars
at key locations.
Grab bars help family members steady
themselves on slippery shower, tub, and other floor
surfaces. Plus, they provide support for people
transferring from a wheelchair or walker to the
shower, tub, or toilet.
Grab bars come in a variety of colors, shapes,
sizes, and textures. Choose a style with a 11⁄4" to
11⁄2" diameter that fits comfortably between your
thumb and fingers. Then properly install it 11⁄2"
from the wall with anchors that can support at least
250 pounds.
The easiest way to install grab bars is to screw
them into wall studs or into blocking or backing
attached to studs. Blocking is a good option if you
are framing a new bathroom or have the wall surface
removed during a major remodel (see Illustration A).
Use 2 × 6 or 2 × 8 lumber to provide room for
adjustments, and fasten the blocks to the framing
Grab bars promote independence in the bathroom, where
with 16d nails. Note the locations of your blocking
privacy is especially important. Grab bars not only help prevent
for future reference. slips and falls, they also help people steady themselves in
As an alternative, cover the entire wall with 3⁄4" showers and lower themselves into tubs.
plywood backing secured with screws to the wall
framing, so you can install grab bars virtually anywhere
on the wall (see Illustration B). A B
Grab bars can be installed in areas without studs.
For these installations, use specialized heavy-duty Wallboard
hollow-wall anchors designed to support at least
250 pounds.
Tools & Materials ▸
Measuring tape Hollow-wall
Pencil anchors Studs 2× blocking Studs
3
⁄ 4" plywood
Stud finder #12 stainless steel
Level screws
Blocking or backing is required for secure grab bars. If you
Drill Silicone caulk know where the grab bars will be located, add 2× blocking
Masonry bit between studs (Illustration A). You also can cover the entire
Grab bar wall with 3⁄4" plywood backing, which allows you to install grab
bars virtually anywhere on the wall.
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■ How to Install Grab Bars
1 2
Locate the wall studs in the installation area using a stud Mark the grab bar height at one stud location, then use a
finder. If the area is tiled, the stud finder may not detect studs, level to transfer the height mark to the stud that will receive
so try to locate the studs above the tile, if possible, then use a the other end of the bar. Position the grab bar on the height
level to transfer the marks lower on the wall. Otherwise, you marks so at least two of the three mounting holes are aligned
can drill small, exploratory holes through grout joints in the tile, with the stud centers. Mark the mounting hole locations onto
then fill the holes with silicone caulk to seal them. Be careful the wall.
not to drill into pipes.
3 4
Drill pilot holes for the mounting screws. If you are drilling Apply a continuous bead of silicone caulk to the back
through tile, start with a small bit (about 1⁄8"), then redrill the side of each bar end (inset). Secure the bar to the studs using
hole with the larger bit. For screws that won’t hit studs, drill #12 stainless steel screws (the screws should penetrate the
holes for wall anchors, following the manufacturer’s directions stud by at least 1"). Install a stainless steel screw or bolt into
for sizing. Install anchors, if necessary. the wall anchors. Test the bar to make sure it’s secure.
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Tilting Wall Mirrors Tools & Materials ▸
Level Allen wrench
A mirror is a necessity in any bathroom, but not every Drill Tilting wall mirror
bathroom mirror has to be attached to a medicine Flat-bladed Extending
cabinet. Tilting mirrors and telescoping makeup mirrors screwdriver arm mirror
are only two of the nearly endless options available.
The most important part of mounting a mirror is
accurate placement. A mirror over the vanity should be
centered over the centerline of the sink. If you have an A smaller tilting mirror can take the place of a large
asymmetrical sink, center the mirror over the vanity. stationary mirror.
Mirror height is also important, especially to those Extending arm mirrors are handy for shaving or
who are above or below average height. Tilting mirrors applying makeup. These mirrors typically have two
are useful if there is a dramatic difference between sides with one side providing magnification. Some
the tallest and the shortest person in the household. come with lights and antifogging as well.
A tilting wall mirror adjusts to people of varying heights and should be centered over the sink or the vanity. Extending arm mirrors are
installed off to the side, since the arm allows the mirror to be drawn closer when needed.
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■ How to Install a Tilting Wall Mirror
1 2
Determine the height of the mirror mounts by dividing Insert the included wall anchors and tap into place.
the overall height of the mirror by two and adding the result to Remove the brackets from the mounting posts by loosening
the number of inches above the vanity you want the bottom the setscrew. Attach the brackets to the wall at the wall
edge of the mirror to be placed. In this case, the mirror came anchor locations.
with a mounting template. Tape the template to the wall and
drill two 5⁄16" holes at each of the mounting post locations.
3
Assemble the mirror if necessary. Make sure the Variation: How to Hang an Extending Arm Mirror. Most
setscrews on the mounting posts are facing downward. extending wall mirrors are surface mounted. Next to the vanity
Carefully lift the mirror, place the mounting posts over mirror, use a level to mark a vertical line at the eye level of the
the brackets, and slide into place. Tighten the setscrews. mirror’s main user. Make sure there is sufficient space for the
mirror to fold back against the wall. Hold the mirror unit over
the line and mark the screw hole locations. Drill two 1⁄4" holes
at the marks and insert the wall anchors. Hold the mirror in
position and drive in the screws.
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Mirror Defoggers Tools & Materials ▸
Measuring tape Fish tape
Y ou may not want to deal with the inconvenience Level Drill
of a foggy mirror after your long, hot soak or Staple gun Painter’s tape
invigorating shower. Let’s face it—no one’s dream Stud finder Mirror defogger
bath includes inconveniences of any sort. But even Keyhole saw
with an exhaust fan, your bathroom mirror can get
foggy. Instead of wiping off the moisture, which only
results in streaks and drips, prevent its formation with
a mirror defogger.
A mirror defogger works by gently heating defogger. Mirror defoggers come in a number of
the mirror to prevent condensation. Typically it is sizes and with many operating systems. They can be
hardwired into the vanity light so that when you installed under a flat wall-mounted mirror attached to
switch on the light you’re also switching on the the back of a framed mirror.
Mirror defoggers are heaters that are installed behind flat wall‑mounted mirrors. The heat prevents condensation on the mirror
and does away with the inconvenience of a foggy mirror in your dream bathroom.
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■ How to Install a Mirror Defogger
1 2
Use painter’s tape to outline the mirror top and sides on Provide power to the installation area by running cable
the wall. Carefully remove the mirror and place it in a safe from a nearby electrical box and into a new box behind the
location. Mark the location of the defogger. It should be mirror location. If you tie into the electricity at the vanity light
centered over the sink with the top 6 ft. from the floor. Mark (as we have done here), the defogger will turn on and off with
a 4" × 6" box on the wall around the defogger’s wire connector. the vanity light. If you are not experienced with home wiring,
We aligned this mirror’s power connection at the top, where it hire an electrician for this part of the job.
is closest to the power supply. Turn off the circuit breaker for
the light fixture.
3 4
Patch any holes in the wallboard that will not be covered Make (or have made) the electrical connections according
by the mirror. Position the defogger with the wire connector to the manufacturer’s instructions. Here, we are re‑installing
centered over the access hole and within the lines marked the bathroom vanity light. Remount the mirror with clips (do
in Step 1. Staple the defogger to the wall surface around the not use mastic over the defogger).
edges only.
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Glass Shelving Tools & Materials ▸
Level Pencil
G lass shelving is unobtrusive so it can fit many Drill Glass shelves
styles of bathrooms—from sleek modern to
elaborate Victorian. You can find a wide variety of
shelving available in home stores and online.
Most glass shelves are held in place with metal the wall with exposed screws. The directions here are
mounts. How the shelves are secured to the mounts for shelving that uses hidden brackets.
differs and how the mounts are attached to the wall If you are installing shelves on a tiled wall, mount
also differs. Most shelves have a hidden bracket that the brackets in grout lines if at all possible to minimize
is secured to the wall. The mount then slips over the the possibility of cracking the tiles. Many glass
bracket and is secured with a setscrew. The most basic shelves have some flexibility in the distance between
models may have mounts that are screwed directly into the mounts.
Glass shelves fit any style and size of bathroom. They are held in place with metal mounts, which can be decorative, that are
attached to the wall.
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■ How to Install Glass Shelves
1 2
Assemble the shelf and shelf holders (not the brackets). Remove the shelves and use the level to extend the mark
Hold the shelf against the wall in the desired location. On into a 3" vertical line. Use the level to mark a horizontal line
the wall, mark the center point of each holder, where the across the centers of these lines.
setscrew is.
3 4
Center the middle round hole of the bracket over the Remove the shelf from the holders. Slide a holder over
intersection of the vertical and horizontal lines. Mark the a bracket, check that the shelf mount is level, and tighten the
center of each of the oblong holes. Put the bracket aside and setscrew. Repeat with the other holder. Insert the shelf and fix
drill a 1⁄4" hole at each mark. Insert the included wall anchors in in place. Check the shelf for level. If it’s not level, remove one
the holes. Replace the bracket, insert the screws into the wall holder and loosen the bracket screws. Slide the bracket up or
anchors, and drive the screws. Repeat for the second bracket. down to make the unit level. Replace the holder and shelf.
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Towel Warmers Tools & Materials ▸
Drill Retrofit electrical
H ere’s a little bit of luxury that need not be limited Level outlet box
to high-end hotel stays. You can have toasty Keyhole saw Wire connectors
towels in your own bathroom with an easy-to-install Wiring tools NM cable
towel warmer. In a relatively cold room, this can Phillips screwdriver Towel warmer
make stepping out of the shower a much more Stud finder Pencil
pleasant experience. Masking tape
Heated towel racks are available in a wide range
of styles and sizes. Freestanding floor models as
well as door- and wall-mounted versions can warmer directly above an existing receptacle, you
be plugged in for use when desired. Hardwired can save a lot of time and mess by running cable
wall-mounted versions can be switched on when you up from the receptacle to the new electrical box
enter the bathroom so your towels are warm when for the warmer.
you step out of the shower. Although installing them Before installing hardwired models, check your
requires some electrical skills, the hardwired models local electrical codes for applicable regulations.
do not need to be located near wall receptacles and If you are not experienced with home wiring, have
they do not have exposed cords or extension cords an electrician do this job for you or opt for a
hanging on the wall. However, if you locate the plug-in model.
A hard‑wired towel warmer offers the luxury of heated towels without the safety concerns of a plug‑in device.
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■ How to Install a Hardwired Towel Warmer
1 2
Use a stud finder to locate the studs in the area you wish to Shut off electrical power at the main service panel. At the
place the towel warmer. Mark the stud locations with masking mark for the wall bracket outlet, cut a hole in the wallcovering
tape or pencil lines. Attach the wall brackets to the towel for a retrofit electrical box. Run NM cable from the opening to a
warmer and hold the unit against the wall at least 7" from GFCI‑protected circuit (here, we ran cable down to a receptacle
the floor and 3" from the ceiling or any overhang. Mark the directly beneath it), or install a separate GFCI‑protected circuit
locations of the wall bracket outlet plate (where the electrical (you’ll need to consult a wiring book or an electrician). Pull
connection will be made) and the mounting brackets. the cable through the hole in the retrofit box, and then tighten
the cable clamp. Place the box in the hole flush with the wall
surface and tighten the mounting screw in the rear of the box.
Cut the wires so about 5" extends into the box and strip the
insulation off at 3⁄8" from the end of each wire.
3 4
Position the towel warmer over the outlet box and mark After the electrical connections are made, fasten the
the locations of the screw holes for the wall brackets. Make towel rack brackets to the wall. Turn on power and test the
sure the appliance is level. Remove the warmer and drill towel warmer. Finally, attach the electrical cover plate with
1
⁄4" pilot holes at the marked locations. If the marks are located integral on/off switch.
over studs, drill 1⁄8" pilot holes. If not, push wall anchors into the
holes. Thread the mounting screws through the brackets. Have
a helper hold the towel rack in place and use wire connectors
to connect the wires, including the ground wire, according to
the instructions.
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Appendix A: Plumbing Codes & Permits
T he Plumbing Code is the set of regulations that
building officials and inspectors use to evaluate
your project plans and the quality of your work. Codes
3
6 ft. of
⁄ 4" pipe
M
To street
WH Water Meter
vary from region to region, but most are based on the heater
65 ft. of
National Uniform Plumbing Code, a highly technical, 1" pipe
difficult-to-read manual. More user-friendly code
handbooks are available at bookstores and libraries.
These handbooks are based on the National Uniform 8 ft. of
3
⁄ 4" pipe
Plumbing Code, but they are easier to read and
include diagrams and photos.
8 ft. of
Sometimes these handbooks discuss three different 1
⁄ 2" pipe
plumbing zones in an effort to accommodate state
variations in regulations. Remember that local plumbing
code always supersedes national code. Your local building
inspector can be a valuable source of information and 5 ft. of Toilet
may provide you with a convenient summary sheet of the 1
⁄ 2" pipe stub‑outs Sink
regulations that apply to your project. stub‑outs
As part of its effort to ensure public safety, your
community building department requires a permit for
most plumbing projects. When you apply for a permit,
The supply riser diagram shows the length of the hot and
the building official will want to review three drawings cold water pipes and the relation of the fixtures to one another.
of your plumbing project: a site plan, a water supply The inspector will use this diagram to determine the proper
diagram, and a drain-waste-vent diagram. If the official size for the new water supply pipes in your system.
is satisfied that your project meets code requirements,
you will be issued a plumbing permit, which is your
legal permission to begin work. As your project nears
completion, the inspector will visit your home to 3" vent stack
check your work.
2" vent pipe
Note: These specifications may not conform to
all building codes; check with your local building
department regarding regulations in your area. Sink
2" drain
1 1⁄ 2" drain
House Tub
3" toilet
drain
Sewer 65 ft.
3" waste stack
3" cleanout
Water service 65 ft.
Street
Driveway 3" drain To
sewer
A DWV diagram shows the routing of drain and vent pipes
The site plan shows the location of the water main and sewer in your system. Indicate the lengths of drain pipes and the
main with respect to your yard and home. The distances from distances between fixtures. The inspector will use this diagram
your foundation to the water main and from the foundation to to determine if you have properly sized the drain traps, drain
the main sewer should be indicated on the site map. pipes, and vent pipes.
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Fixture Supply Pipe & Trap Sizes Sizes for Horizontal & Vertical Drain Pipes
FIxTURE UnIT MInIMUM MInIMUM MInIMUM PIPE MAxIMUM MAxIMUM
RATInG BRAnCH SUPPly TRAP SIzE SIzE FIxTURE UnITS FIxTURE UnITS
PIPE SIzE TUBE SIzE FoR FoR
HoRIzonTAl VERTICAl
Toilet 3 1
⁄ 2" 3
⁄ 8" n/a BRAnCH DRAIn DRAIn STACkS
Vanity Sink 1 1
⁄ 2" 3
⁄ 8" 1 1⁄ 4" 1 1⁄ 4" 1 2
Shower 2 1
⁄ 2" 3
⁄ 8" 2" 1 1⁄ 2" 3 4
Bathtub 2 1
⁄ 2" 1
⁄ 2" 1 1⁄ 2" 2" 6 10
To determine the minimum size of supply pipes and fixture 2 ⁄ 2"
1
12 20
drain traps, you must know the fixture’s unit rating, a unit of 3" 20 30
measure assigned by the plumbing code. Note: Branch pipes
are the water supply lines that run from the distribution pipes 4" 160 240
toward the individual fixtures. Supply tubes carry water from
the branch pipes to the fixtures. Drain pipe sizes are determined by the load on the pipes, as
measured by the total fixture units. Horizontal drain pipes less
than 3" in diameter should slope 1⁄4" per foot toward the main
drain. Pipes 3" or more in diameter should slope 1⁄8" per foot.
Note: Horizontal or vertical drain pipes for a toilet must be 3"
or larger.
Maximum Hole & notch Sizes Pipe Support Intervals
FRAMInG MAxIMUM MAxIMUM TyPE VERTICAl HoRIzonTAl
MEMBER HolE SIzE noTCH SIzE oF PIPE SUPPoRT InTERVAl SUPPoRT InTERVAl
2 × 4 loadbearing stud 17⁄16" diameter ⁄8" deep
7
Copper 6 ft. 10 ft.
2 × 4 non‑loadbearing stud 2 ⁄2" diameter
1
1 ⁄16" deep
7
ABS 4 ft. 4 ft.
2 × 6 loadbearing stud 2 ⁄4" diameter
1
1 ⁄8" deep
3
CPVC 3 ft. 3 ft.
2 × 6 non‑loadbearing stud 3 ⁄16" diameter
5
2 ⁄16" deep
3
PVC 4 ft. 4 ft.
2 × 6 joists 1 ⁄2" diameter
1
⁄8" deep
7
Galvanized Iron 12 ft. 15 ft.
2 × 8 joists 2 ⁄8" diameter
3
1 ⁄4" deep
1
Cast Iron 5 ft. 15 ft.
2 × 10 joists 3 ⁄16" diameter
1
1 ⁄2" deep
1
Minimum intervals for supporting pipes are determined
2 × 12 joists 33⁄4" diameter 17⁄8" deep by the type of pipe and its orientation in the system. Use only
brackets and supports made of the same (or compatible)
The maximum hole and notch sizes that can be cut into materials as the pipes. Remember that the measurements
framing members for running pipes is shown above. Where shown above are minimum requirements; many plumbers
possible, use notches rather than bored holes to ease pipe install pipe supports at closer intervals.
installation. When boring holes, there must be at least 5⁄8" of
wood between the edge of a stud and the hole, and at least 2"
between the edge of a joist and the hole. Joists can be notched
only in the end one‑third of the overall span; never in the
middle one‑third of the joist. When two pipes are run through
a stud, the pipes should be stacked one over the other, never
side by side.
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Wet Venting Auxiliary Venting
Vent
pipe
Critical
distance
Min. 6" Separate 2" vent
required if
toilet‑to‑stack
2" sink drain distance is more
serves as than 6 ft.
wet vent for
bathtub
Critical distance
Wet vents are pipes that serve as a vent for one fixture and Fixtures must have auxiliary vents if the distance to
a drain for another. The sizing of a wet vent is based on the the main waste‑vent stack exceeds the critical distance.
total fixture units it supports: a 3" wet vent can serve up to 12 A toilet, for example, should have a separate vent pipe if it
fixture units; a 2" wet vent is rated for 4 fixture units; a 11⁄2" wet is located more than 6 ft. from the main waste–vent stack.
vent, for only 1 fixture unit. Note: The distance between the This secondary vent pipe should connect to the stack or an
wet‑vented fixture and the wet vent itself must be no more existing vent pipe at a point at least 6" above the highest
than the maximum critical distance. fixture on the system.
Vent Pipe Sizes, Critical Distances Vent Pipe orientation to Drain Pipe
SIzE oF MInIMUM MAxIMUM
FIxTURE VEnT PIPE TRAP‑To‑VEnT Vent pipe
DRAIn SIzE DISTAnCE
1 1⁄ 4" 1 1⁄ 4" 21⁄2 ft.
1 1⁄ 2" 1 1⁄ 4" 31⁄2 ft.
2" 1 1⁄ 2" 5 ft.
3" 2" 6 ft.
4" 3" 10 ft.
Drain pipe
Vent pipes are usually one pipe size smaller than the drain
pipes they serve. Code requires that the distance between
the drain trap and the vent pipe fall within a maximum critical
distance, a measurement that is determined by the size of the 45°
fixture drain. Use this chart to determine both the minimum
size for the vent pipe and the maximum critical distance.
Vent pipes must extend in an upward direction from drains,
no less than 45° from horizontal. This ensures that waste water
cannot flow into the vent pipe and block it. At the opposite
end, a new vent pipe should connect to an existing vent pipe
or main waste–vent stack at a point at least 6" above the
highest fixture draining into the system.
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Appendix B: Wiring Codes & Permits
T o ensure public safety, every community requires
that you get a permit to install new wiring and
have the completed work reviewed by an appointed
As with any project, if you are uncomfortable
working with electricity, hire a professional electrician
to complete new wiring installations and connections.
inspector. Electrical inspectors use the National The bathroom requirements listed below are for
Electrical Code (NEC) as the primary authority general information only. Contact your local electrical
for evaluating wiring, but they also follow the local inspector for specific wiring regulations:
building code and electrical code standards.
As you begin planning new circuits, call or visit • A separate 20‑amp receptacle circuit for small
your local electrical inspector and discuss the project appliances is required.
with him or her. The inspector can tell you which of • All receptacles must be GFCI protected.
the national and local code requirements apply to • Light fixtures and switches must be on a separate
your job, and may give you a packet of information circuit. (A minimum 15-amp circuit.)
summarizing these regulations. Later, when you apply • All fixture and appliance switches must
to the inspector for a work permit, he or she will be grounded.
expect you to understand the local guidelines as well • There must be at least one ceiling‑mounted
as a few basic NEC requirements. light fixture.
The NEC is a set of standards that provides • Whirlpools and other large fixtures or appliances
minimum safety requirements for wiring installations. are required to be on a dedicated circuit.
It is revised every three years.
In addition to being the final authority of code The manufacturers of some home spa fixtures, such
requirements, inspectors are electrical professionals as saunas and whirlpools, may specify that a certified
with years of experience. Although they have busy electrician make the electrical connections for their
schedules, most inspectors are happy to answer product. Make sure to follow these directions, as doing
questions and help you design well-planned circuits. otherwise may result in the warranty being voided.
1 1⁄ 4”
5
⁄ 8" hole
Protector
plate
Furring
strip
Cutaway
view
Cables must be protected against damage by nails and Kitchen and bathroom receptacles must be protected by a
screws by at least 11⁄4" of wood (top). When cables pass GFCI. Also, all outdoor receptacles and general use receptacles
through 2 × 2 furring strips (bottom), protect the cables in an unfinished basement or crawlspace must be protected
with metal protector plates. by a GFCI.
Appendix: Wiring Codes & Permits ■ 281
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Measurement Conversions
lumber Dimensions
noMInAl ‑ U.S. ACTUAl ‑ U.S. (In InCHES) METRIC noMInAl ‑ U.S. ACTUAl ‑ U.S. (In InCHES) METRIC
1×2 3
⁄ 4 × 1 1⁄ 2 19 × 38 mm 1 1⁄ 2 × 4 1 1⁄ 4 × 3 1⁄ 2 32 × 89 mm
1×3 3
⁄ 4 × 2 1⁄ 2 19 × 64 mm 1 1⁄ 2 × 6 1 1⁄ 4 × 5 1⁄ 2 32 × 140 mm
1×4 3
⁄ 4 × 3 1⁄ 2 19 × 89 mm 1 1⁄ 2 × 8 1 1⁄ 4 × 7 1⁄ 4 32 × 184 mm
1×5 3
⁄ 4 × 4 1⁄ 2 19 × 114 mm 11⁄2 × 10 1 1⁄ 4 × 9 1⁄ 4 32 × 235 mm
1×6 3
⁄ 4 × 5 1⁄ 2 19 × 140 mm 11⁄2 × 12 11⁄4 × 111⁄4 32 × 286 mm
1×7 3
⁄ 4 × 6 1⁄ 4 19 × 159 mm 2×4 1 1⁄ 2 × 3 1⁄ 2 38 × 89 mm
1×8 3
⁄ 4 × 7 1⁄ 4 19 × 184 mm 2×6 1 1⁄ 2 × 5 1⁄ 2 38 × 140 mm
1 × 10 3
⁄ 4 × 9 1⁄ 4 19 × 235 mm 2×8 1 1⁄ 2 × 7 1⁄ 4 38 × 184 mm
1 × 12 3
⁄4 × 111⁄4 19 × 286 mm 2 × 10 1 1⁄ 2 × 9 1⁄ 4 38 × 235 mm
1 1⁄ 4 × 4 1 × 3 1⁄ 2 25 × 89 mm 2 × 12 11⁄2 × 111⁄4 38 × 286 mm
1 1⁄ 4 × 6 1 × 5 1⁄ 2 25 × 140 mm 3×6 2 1⁄ 2 × 5 1⁄ 2 64 × 140 mm
1 1⁄ 4 × 8 1 × 7 1⁄ 4 25 × 184 mm 4×4 3 1⁄ 2 × 3 1⁄ 2 89 × 89 mm
11⁄4 × 10 1 × 9 1⁄ 4 25 × 235 mm 4×6 3 1⁄ 2 × 5 1⁄ 2 89 × 140 mm
11⁄4 × 12 1 × 111⁄4 25 × 286 mm
Metric Conversions
To ConVERT: To: MUlTIPly By: To ConVERT: To: MUlTIPly By:
Inches Millimeters 25.4 Millimeters Inches 0.039
Inches Centimeters 2.54 Centimeters Inches 0.394
Feet Meters 0.305 Meters Feet 3.28
Yards Meters 0.914 Meters Yards 1.09
Square inches Square centimeters 6.45 Square centimeters Square inches 0.155
Square feet Square meters 0.093 Square meters Square feet 10.8
Square yards Square meters 0.836 Square meters Square yards 1.2
Ounces Milliliters 30.0 Milliliters Ounces .033
Pints (U.S.) Liters 0.473 (lmp. 0.568) Liters Pints (U.S.) 2.114 (lmp. 1.76)
Quarts (U.S.) Liters 0.946 (lmp. 1.136) Liters Quarts (U.S.) 1.057 (lmp. 0.88)
Gallons (U.S.) Liters 3.785 (lmp. 4.546) Liters Gallons (U.S.) 0.264 (lmp. 0.22)
Ounces Grams 28.4 Grams Ounces 0.035
Pounds Kilograms 0.454 Kilograms Pounds 2.2
Counterbore, Shank & Pilot Hole Diameters
SCREW CoUnTERBoRE DIAMETER FoR ClEARAnCE HolE FoR PIloT HolE DIAMETER
SIzE SCREW HEAD (In InCHES) SCREW SHAnk (In InCHES) HARD WooD (In InCHES) SoFT WooD (In InCHES)
#1 .146 (9⁄64) 5
⁄64 3
⁄64 1
⁄32
#2 1
⁄4 3
⁄32 3
⁄64 1
⁄32
#3 1
⁄4 7
⁄64 1
⁄16 3
⁄64
#4 1
⁄4 1
⁄8 1
⁄16 3
⁄64
#5 1
⁄4 1
⁄8 5
⁄64 1
⁄16
#6 5
⁄16 9
⁄64 3
⁄32 5
⁄64
#7 5
⁄16 5
⁄32 3
⁄32 5
⁄64
#8 3
⁄8 11
⁄64 1
⁄8 3
⁄32
#9 3
⁄8 11
⁄64 1
⁄8 3
⁄32
#10 3
⁄8 3
⁄16 1
⁄8 7
⁄64
#11 1
⁄2 3
⁄16 5
⁄32 9
⁄64
#12 1
⁄2 7
⁄32 9
⁄64 1
⁄8
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Resources
Black & Decker Laticrete
Power tools & Accessories Floor warming mats & supplies
800-544-6986 800-24304788
www.blackanddecker.com www.laticrete.com
International Assoc. of Plumbing & Mechanical Officials National Kitchen & Bath Association (NKBA)
20001 E. Walnut Dr. South 800-843-6522
Walnut, CA 91789 www.nkba.org
www.iapmo.org
Red Wing Shoes Co.
International Conference of Building Officials Work shoes and boots shown throughout book
5360 Workman Mill Rd. 800-733-9464
Whittier, CA 90601 www.redwingshoes.com
800-284-4406
Kohler Co.
800-4-KOHLER
www.kohlerco.com
Photo Credits
American Standard Encore Ceramics (top right, bottom left and right), 146,
800-442-1902 Email:info@encoreceramics.com 187 (top left and right), 194 (top), 241,
www.americanstandard-us.com www.encoreceramics.com 266 (top)
p. 39 (top) p. 27 (bottom right), 38 (right),
Pittsburgh Corning
Armstrong Floors Eric Roth 800-624-2120
717-397-0611 p. 43 (bottom) www.pittsburghcorning.com
www.armstrong.com p. 214
p. 39 (bottom right) Ginger
888-469-6511 Seattle Glass Block
Broan-NuTone www.gingerco.com 425-483-9977
800-558-1711 p. 46 (right) www.seattleglassblock.com
www.broan.com p. 38 (left)
p. 36 (right), 37 (right, top and bottom) Harrell Remodeling, Inc.
www.harrell-remodeling.com Shutterstock
Ceramic Tiles of Italy p. 47, 268 P. 10, 17 (top right, bottom left and right),
www.italiatiles.com 18 (all), 19 (all), 23 (bottom right), 30,
p. 12 (bottom), 13 (top left), Istock / www.istock.com 33 (right), 42, 43 (top), 192, 196, 265
p. 33 (left) photo © Robert Perron, 36 (left)
Cherry Tree Design photo © Tor Lindqvist, 187, 204 Toto
www.cherrytreedesign.com 800-350-8686
p. 48 (bottom) Jacuzzi www.totousa.com
909.606.1416 p. 45 (top left)
Diamond Cabinets www.jacuzzi.com
www.diamond2.com p. 12 (top), 14 (bottom right), 15 (top right), Walker Zanger
p. 15 (bottom), 32, 34 (right), 35 (top) 24, 26 (right), 48 (top) 732-697-7700
www.walkerzanger.com
Economic Mobility, Inc. Kohler p. 14 (bottom left)
800-342-8801 800-4-KOHLER
www.toiletlift.com www.kohlerco.com Wellborn Cabinet, Inc.
p. 45 (bottom left) p. 13 (top right and bottom), 15 (top left), 800-336-8040
16, 17, (top left), 20, 23 (top left and www.wellborn.com
Elkay right, bottom left), 25 (both), 26 (left), p. 34 (left)
630-574-8484 27 (top right and bottom left), 28 (both),
www.elkay.com 29 (all), 31 (all), 35 (bottom), 44, 45 (top
p. 46 (left) and bottom right), 138, 140 (both), 145,
Resources & Photo Credits ■ 283283-288-C57259.indd 283 6/11/10 6:14:13 PM 283-288-C57259.indd 283 6/11/10 6:14:54 PM Job:05-19423 Title: CPI-HI 0605 CG to Bathrooms (Ray) Text 06-C57259 #175 Dtp:204 Page:283
Index
A showers, 74, 86 Custom cabinets
Accent lighting, 36 wiring, 281 about, 34
Accessibility Bullnose base trim, installing, 259 double vanity, building, 152–157
barrier-free showers, 26–27 Custom shower stalls
clearances, 49 C about, 26
designing for, 44–48 Cabinets bases, building tiled, 86–89
grab bars, installing, 268–269 accessibility, increasing, 45, 46
toilets, 45, 46, 181 baltic birch plywood, 154 D
Access panels medicine cabinets, about, 33, Deck-mounted tubs
about, 111 34, 266 about, 22
installing, 77 medicine cabinets, installing, idea, 23
Acrylic tubs, about, 24 266–267 large, 24
Alcove bathtubs removing, 60 Deco style, idea, 14
about, 98–99 traditional, installing, 148–149 Dens-Shield, 220
installing, 100–103 types, 32–35 Design standards, 50
Antiscald valves, 70 vanity, installing, 148–149 Diagrams, 278
Attached-apron tubs vanity, installing custom double, Doorways
about, 22 152–157 accessibility, increasing, 47, 48
tiles, installing, 234–239 Carpet, about, 39 width, 47
Attics and skylights, 204 Cast iron tubs, about, 24 Double-bowl vanity tops, installing
Attic venting routes, 200 Ceiling lights about, 158
about, 196 drains, 159
B components, 197 step-by-step, 160–161
Baltic birch plywood, 154 light/vent fan combinations, Double vanity cabinets, building
Barrier-free showers, about, 26–27 replacing, 200–203 custom
Base trim, installing bullnose, 259 replacing, 198–199 about, 152–153
Bathtubs Ceiling mount fixtures, 36 step-by-step, 154–157
accessibility, increasing, 48 Ceilings, materials for, 38 Drain pipe, requirements for vent
alcove, installing, 98–103 Cementboard pipe orientation to, 280
aprons, tiling, 234–239 about, 38 Drains
fittings, installing, 128–131 finishing, 221 bidet, 183
ideas, 12, 13 hanging, 220–221 double-bowl vanity top, 159
materials, 24 wall tile and, 222 horizontal & vertical drain pipes
plumbing basics, 98–99 Ceramic tile floors, installing sizes requirements, 279
removal of, 62–63, 65 about, 39, 252 pop-up stopper, installing,
showers in, installing, 132–133 bullnose base trim, 259 170–173
sliding doors, installing, 116–119 step-by-step, 253–258 showers & tubs, disconnecting, 63
soaking tubs, installing, 110–115 China vessel sinks, about, 145 shower system, 71
solid-surface surrounds, installing, Claw-foot tubs, about, 22, 23 Drop-in tubs, 22
108–109 Color schemes, ideas, 17, 18 Drywall, about, 38
space savers, 23 Compact tubs, about, 23 Dual showerheads, installing,
3-piece tub surrounds, installing, Console sinks 134–135
104–107 about, 28, 140 DWV diagrams, 278
types, 22–23, 24 See also Wall-mounted sinks
wall tiles, installing in alcoves, Corner showers E
226–228 about, 26, 80 Electrical service
See also Jetted tubs installing, 81–85 cable protection requirements, 281
Bidets Countertops radiant floor-warming systems,
about, 30, 31, 182–183 accessibility, increasing, 46 246, 248
installing, 184–185 cabinet, 33 whirlpool hookup requirements, 122
Building codes idea, 14 wiring codes & permits, 281
ceiling lights, 197 integral vanity, installing, 150–151 Electric heaters, 37
common requirements, 51 removing, 61 Electric towel warmers, installing
local, 278 Cultured marble sinks, about, 29 hardwired, 276–277
plumbing, 278–280 Elevation drawings, 53
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Embellished wall tiles, 230–233 Glass shelves, installing, 274–275 M
Enameled cast iron sinks, about, 29 Glass vessel sinks, about, 145 Marble sinks, about, 29
Enameled steel tubs, about, 24 Grab bars Master bathrooms
Enclosure kits for showers, for accessibility, 46, 47 about, 42
installing, 72–77 installing, 268–269 ideas, 13, 43
European-style bathrooms, idea, Greenboard, about, 38, 222 Maximum plumbing hole & notch
19, 30 Grout, 222 sizes requirements, 279
Extending arm wall mirrors, Guest bathroom Medicine cabinets
installing, 270–271 about, 42 about, 33, 34, 266
idea, 17, 18 installing, 266–267
F removal, 60
Family bathrooms, about, 42 H Mirror defoggers, installing, 272–273
Fans (vent), about, 200 Half-bathrooms Mirrors
Faucets about, 42 accessibility, increasing, 9
accessibility, increasing, 45, 46, 47 idea, 17 idea, 18
bidet, 183 Handicap accessibility. See tilting wall, installing, 270–271
combination, 129 Accessibility Mood lights for jetted tubs, 127
ideas, 14 Hardwired towel warmers, installing, Multiple showerheads
single-body, installing, 162, 167 276–277 about, 27
spout and handle removal, 62 Hardwood floors, about, 39 idea, 16
wall-mount, installing, 168–169 Heating & ventilation, about, 37 installing, 134–135
widespread, installing, 162, 163, Heat lamps, about, 37
164–166 Horizontal drain pipes sizes N
Fiberglass tubs, about, 24 requirements, 279 National Electrical Code (NEC), 281
Fixtures, ceiling, 36 Hourglass tubs, about, 22 National Kitchen and Bath (NKBA)
See also Ceiling lights standards, 50
Fixture supply pipe & trap sizes I National Uniform Plumbing
requirements, 279 Integral sinks, about, 28 Code, 278
Flanges, replacing, 178 Natural stone tile floors, about, 39
Floor plans, 52, 53 J Natural stone vessel sinks,
Floors Jetted tubs about, 145
bullnose base trim, installing on about, 22, 25 Neo-angle showers
ceramic tile, 259 accessories, 127 about, 26, 80
ceramic tile, installing, 252–258 air-jet, about, 120–121 installing, 81–85
idea, 12 electrical hookup requirements,
materials, 38 122 O
safety, increasing, 44 idea, 18 One-piece alcove showers, about, 26
sheet vinyl, installing, 260–263 installing, 122–127 Oval tubs, about, 22
Flush-o-Meters, 191
Framed sliding tub doors, 116 L P
Frameless sliding tub doors, 116 Lavatory drains, installing, 170–173 Paint, about, 38
Freestanding showers, about, 26 Lavatory faucets, installing Pedestal sinks
Freestanding tubs, about, 22, 23 about, 162 about, 28, 140
basic types, 163 installing, 141
G single-body, step-by-step, 167 Permits
GFCI circuit breakers widespread, step-by-step, plumbing, 278–280
jetted tubs/whirlpools, 122 164–166 wiring, 281
radiant floor-warming systems, Leaks, finding, 161 Pipe support intervals requirements,
246, 248 Lighting 279
wiring code requirements, 281 mood lights for jetted tubs, 127 Planning
Glass blocks, about, 38 for showers, 27 accessibility and, 44–49
Glass block showers types, 36 building codes, 51
about, 92 vanity lights, installing, 194–195 design standards, 50
installing, 93–97 See also Ceiling lights; Skylights needs determination, 42–43
planning, 93 Light/vent fan combinations, plans, drawing, 52–53
Glass block spacers, using, 96 replacing overhead lights with, plans, plumbing, 278
Glass block windows 200–203 plumbing codes & permits,
about, 214 Linen cabinets, 33–34 278–280
installing, 215–217 Linen closets, 34–35 wiring codes & permits, 281
kits for, 217
Index ■ 285
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Plumbing Sheet vinyl floors, installing wall-mounted, installing, 142–143
access panels, 77, 111 about, 39, 260 Site plan, 278
bathtub basics, 98–99 cutting template for, 261 Skylights
code & permit information, step-by-step, 262–263 about, 204
278–280 Shelves for storage, 34 installing, 205–207
drains of showers & tubs, Shelves, glass, installing, 274–275 shaft, building, 208–211
disconnecting, 63 Shower alcove, described, 71 tubular, installing, 212–213
fixture supply pipe & trap sizes Shower enclosures Slide-out racks for storage, 34
requirements, 279 doors and curtains, 27 Sliding tub doors, installing, 116–119
horizontal & vertical drain pipes hinged doors, installing, 78–79 Slip-fit spouts, installing, 130
sizes requirements, 279 ideas, 13, 27 Soaking tubs
maximum hole & notch sizes safety, 47 about, 24, 111
requirements, 279 Showerheads, installing idea, 110
pipe support intervals dual, 134–135 installing with platform, 112–115
requirements, 279 slide-bar, 136–137 Soffitt venting routes, 200
plans, 278 Showers Solid-surface bathtub surrounds,
sink, disconnecting, 59 accessibility, increasing, 46, 47 installing, 108–109
vent pipe orientation to drain pipe anatomy of, 71 Solid-surface sinks, about, 29
requirements, 280 ideas, enclosure, 13, 27 Specialty tubs, 24
vent pipe sizes & critical distances ideas, multiple heads, 16 Spouts, installing
requirements, 289 materials, 27 slip-fit, 130
Plumbing fittings, tub & shower, removal of, 62–64 threaded, 131
128–131 space savers, 26 Square tubs, about, 22
Pop-up stopper drains, installing, types, 26–27 Stainless steel sinks, about, 29
170–173 See also Custom shower stalls Stock cabinets, 34
Porcelain sinks, about, 29 Showers, installing Stone vessel sinks, about, 145
Powder rooms about, 70–71 Storage
about, 42 in bathtubs, 132–133 ideas, 12, 17, 33–35
idea, 17, 18 dual showerheads, 134–135 shelves, 34
enclosure kits, 72–77 shelves, glass, installing, 274–275
R fittings, 128–131 slide-out racks, 34
Radiant floor-heating systems glass block, 92–97 types, 33–35
about, 37, 246, 248 hinged doors, 78–79 Storage cabinets
installation tips, 247 neo-angle, 81–85 accessibility, increasing, 45, 46
step-by-step installation, 248–251 slide-bar showerheads, 136–137 baltic birch plywood, 154
Recessed ceiling fixtures, 36 Shower surround panels, about, 26 medicine cabinets, about, 33,
Recessed medicine cabinets, Single-body faucets, installing, 34, 266
installing, 267 162, 167 medicine cabinets, installing,
Rectangular tubs, about, 22 Single-handle faucets, 129 266–267
Removal Sink faucets, installing removing, 60
of cabinets, 60 about, 162 traditional, installing, 148–149
of countertops & vanities, 61 basic types, 163 types, 32–35
of showers & tubs, 62–65 single-body, step-by-step, 167 vanity, installing, 148–149
of sinks, 58–59 widespread, step-by-step, vanity, installing custom double,
steps, 55 164–166 152–157
of toilets, 56–57 Sinks Supply system (shower), described, 71
Resilient sheet vinyl floors accessibility, increasing, 46, 47 Surface-mounted medicine cabinets,
about, 39, 260 double-bowl and vanity, installing, installing, 266
cutting template for, 261 158–161
step-by-step, 262–263 drains, installing, 170–173 T
Riser diagrams, 278 drop-in, installing, 151 Task lighting, 36
Round tubs, about, 22 ideas, 14, 15, 17 Tempered glass, sinks, 29
materials, 29, 145 Threaded spouts, installing, 131
S pedestal, installing, 141 Three-handle faucets, 129
Scale drawings, 52 removing, 58–59 3-piece tub surrounds
Screw terminals on ceiling lights, 197 types, 28, 140, 144 about, 104
Self-rimming sinks, about, 28, 29 vessel sinks, installing, 146–147 installing, 105–107
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Tile backer boards Vanities Wall tiles, installing
about, 220 about, 32 about, 222
cementboard, installing & accessibility, increasing, 46 in bathtub alcoves, 226–228
finishing, 220–221 double sinks, installing, 158–161 embellishing, 230–233
Tile floors, installing ceramic drop-in sinks, installing, 151 planning, 229
about, 252 integral countertops, installing, step-by-step, 223–225
bullnose base trim, 259 150–151 Warmers for towels, installing,
step-by-step, 253–258 removing, 61 276–277
Tiles vessel sinks, installing, 144–147 Waterless urinals, 187
custom shower stall bases, Vanity cabinets Water usage, toilets and, 30, 31
installing, 86–89 custom double, installing, 152–157 Wax ring (toilet) removal, 57
embellishing, 230–233 installing, 148–149 Whirlpools
tub aprons, installing, 234–239 Vanity lights, installing, 194–195 about, 22, 25
wall in bathtub alcoves, installing, Ventilation accessories, 127
226–228 light/vent fan combinations, air-jet, about, 120–121
wall, installing, 222–225 replacing, 200–203 electrical hookup requirements,
Tilting wall mirrors, installing, routes, 200 122
270–271 vent fans, about, 200 idea, 18
Toilet enclosures, building Vent pipes installing, 122–127
about, 241 orientation to drain pipe Widespread faucets, installing,
ideas, 240, 241 requirements, 280 164–166
step-by-step, 242–245 sizes & critical distances Windows
Toilets requirements, 289 glass block, installing, 214–217
about, 30, 177 Vertical drain pipes sizes idea, 17
accessibility, increasing, 45, requirements, 279 Wiring codes & permits, 281
46, 181 Vessel sinks
bidet seats, 183 about, 28, 29, 144
height extenders, installing, 181 installing, 146–147
installing, about, 176–177 options, 145
installing, step-by-step, 178–180 Vinyl floors, installing sheet
removing, 56–57 about, 260
types, 31 cutting template for, 261
Towel warmers, installing hardwired, step-by-step, 262–263
276–277 Vitreous china vessel sinks,
Traditional vanities about, 145
countertops, installing integral,
150–151 W
drop-in sinks, installing, 151 Wall cabinets, about, 32
installing, 148–149 Wall-mounted cabinets
Trap sizes, plumbing code about, 32
requirements, 279 removal, 60
Triangular tubs, about, 22 Wall-mounted faucets, installing,
Tubs. See Bathtubs 168–169
Tubular skylights, installing, 212–213 Wall-mounted fixtures, 36
Two-handle faucets, 129 Wall-mounted mirrors, tilting,
installing, 270–271
U Wall-mounted sinks
Undermounted sinks, about, 28, 29 about, 28
Urinals ideas, 14, 15, 17
about, 30, 186 installing, 142–143
flushing options, 187, 191 Wall-mounted vanities
installing, 188–191 about, 142
waterless, 187 installing, 143
Wallpaper, about, 38
V Walls
Valves ideas, 14
antiscald, 70 materials, 38
code requirements, 74
Index ■ 287
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You are welcome to use it in any way that is useful for you, including printing
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400 First Avenue North • Suite 300 • Minneapolis, MN 55401 • 800-328-0590, opt 2 • www.creativepub.com283-288-C57259.indd 288 6/11/10 6:14:14 PM 283-288-C57259.indd 288 6/11/10 6:14:55 PM Job:05-19423 Title: CPI-HI 0605 CG to Bathrooms (Ray) Text 06-C57259 #175 Dtp:204 Page:288
Copyright © 2010, 2011 President/CEO: Ken Fund
Creative Publishing international, Inc.
400 First Avenue North, Suite 300 Home Improvement Group
Minneapolis, Minnesota 55401
1-800-328-0590 Publisher: Bryan Trandem
www.creativepub.com Managing Editor: Tracy Stanley
All rights reserved Senior Editor: Mark Johanson
Printed in China
Creative Director: Michele Lanci-Altomare
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Art Direction/Design: Jon Simpson, Brad Springer, James Kegley
Digital edition: 978-1-61059-006-8
Lead Photographer: Joel Schnell
Softcover edition: 978-1-58923-562-5 Set Builder: James Parmeter
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Production Managers: Laura Hokkanen, Linda Halls
The complete guide to bathrooms. -- 3rd ed. Page Layout Artist: Parlato Design Studio
p. cm. Edition Editor: Chris Peterson
At head of title: Branded by Black & Decker. Copy Editor: Karen Ruth
“Remodeling projects on a budget; vanities & cabinets; plumbing Shop Help: Charles Boldt
& fixtures; showers, sinks & tubs.” Proofreader: Drew Siqveland
Summary: “Step-by-step photos and live DVD action demonstrate
inexpensive projects that make a bathroom more pleasant and
efficient”--Provided by publisher.
ISBN-13: 978-1-58923-562-5 (soft cover)
ISBN-10: 1-58923-562-2 (soft cover)
1. Bathrooms--Remodeling--Amateurs’ manuals. I. Black & Decker
Corporation (Towson, Md.) II. Title.
TH4816.3.B37C66 2010
643’.52--dc22
2010020979
The Complete Guide to Bathrooms
Created by: The Editors of Creative Publishing international, Inc., in cooperation with Black & Decker.
Black & Decker® is a trademark of The Black & Decker Corporation and is used under license.
NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The publisher
and Black & Decker cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse
of the information provided.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional
techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions included with products,
since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required:
some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help.
Consult your local building department for information on building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to
your project.001-019_19423.indd 2 5/26/10 7:43:04 PM 001-019_C57259.indd 2 6/18/10 12:45:33 PM Job:05-19423 Title: CPI-HI 0605 CG to Bathrooms (Ray) Text 06-C57274 (204) #175 Dtp:216 Page:2