Carpentry & Woodworking
Black & Decker The Complete Guide To Cabinets & Countertops How To Customize Your Home With Cabinetry 2
Source: Black & Decker The Complete Guide To Cabinets & Countertops How To Customize Your Home With Cabinetry 2.pdf
Source file: Black & Decker The Complete Guide To Cabinets & Countertops How To Customize Your Home With Cabinetry 2.pdf
The Complete Guide to
CabineTs &
CounTerTops
How to Customize Your Home
with Cabinetry
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Contents
8
The Complete Guide to
Cabinets & Countertops
12 13
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Gallery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Tools & Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Power Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Jobsite Preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
33
Project safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
CabIneTs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Cabinet Selection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Cabinet Door Mounting & Construction Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
45 41
New Cabinet Prep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Stock Cabinets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Wall-Mounted Cabinets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Base Cabinets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Frameless Cabinetry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
58
Freestanding Cabinets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
Customizing Stock Cabinets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52
Slide-Out Storage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54
Custom Cabinetry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58
Advanced Kitchen Cabinets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70
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Contents (Cont.)
88
116 121
Building Drawers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
Building Cabinet Doors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100
Hanging Cabinet Doors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110
Bathroom Window Seat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116
Recessed Cabinet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120
137
Media Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128
Full-Height Medicine Cabinet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134
Custom Laundry Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .140
Compact Laundry Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146
Custom Double Vanity Cabinet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150
132 145
Double-Bowl Vanity Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156
149 150
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186
COuNTERTOPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
Countertop Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .162
Post-form Countertops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .168
Butcher Block Countertops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .172
Laminate Countertops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .178
162 191
Concrete Countertop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .186
Tile Countertops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .194
Granite Tile Countertops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204
Tile Backsplash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .208
Recycled Paper Countertops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .212
199 209
Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
Metric Conversions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
208
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Introduction
F ew home improvements can transform the look and function of a room more dramatically than new cabinets
and countertops. Install a set of cabinets in a laundry room, and suddenly the space is not only more
handsome, it’s actually a more pleasant and efficient place for washing clothes. Another popular improvement,
new kitchen countertops, can completely revitalize the appearance of the room while improving storage and
adding durable work surfaces. Even areas that you don’t normally think of as cabinetry rooms, like bedrooms and
mudrooms, can reap enormous benefits from a few strategically placed cabinets.
As useful and as beautiful as they can be, however, even modest cabinets and countertops represent a
significant investment in time, money, and effort. You’ll want to choose carefully so that you install permanent
home furnishings that meet your storage and work-surface needs perfectly, while fitting in with your décor for a
long time to come.
The truth is, appearance and function are inextricably intertwined in these high-impact home elements.
Some countertops are tough enough to withstand hot pots, fend off knife cuts, and resist stains: quite possibly
your primary objective. Others are fabulously attractive, but a little less tough. On the cabinetry side, you can
choose a traditional face-frame cabinet style that practically assures you’ll have no design failures, but at the
expense of maximizing your storage space and perhaps doing something a little more creative.
The bottom line, when it comes to cabinets and countertops, is that your cabinet and countertop decisions
must strike a balance between function and form. Fortunately, you will find no lack of choices when you visit your
local building center or specialty supplier, and all of them can be put to work to help you with that balance.
Countertops can be created with a vast array of materials, from the simplest post-form prefabs to imported
marble or granite tile. There is also an increasing number of countertop choices that are both beautiful and eco-
friendly, including recycled paper and recycled glass versions. This wealth of choices also has meant that there are
more inexpensive options available than ever before—as well as more high-tech and high-end choices.
You’ll face a similar range of options when choosing cabinets as you will when choosing countertops.
Although there are really two basic types—face-frame and frameless—there are countless options within those
two divisions. Door styles themselves vary from simple flat “slab” panels to incredibly ornate, handcrafted rail-
and-stile versions, and then to even less traditional options like glass fronts, which themselves come in a range
of styles. You can choose the convenience of stock cabinets, semi-custom, or entirely custom-made. And your
options don’t stop there. You’ll find many specialty features like pull-out spice racks and extendable cutting boards
that can make your cabinets even more useful.
Whether you’re building and installing cabinets and countertops yourself, having someone install them, or
something in between, you’ll find all the information you need in the pages that follow. We’ve included insight to
help you make the decision in the first place, and projects that will teach you all the skills and techniques you’ll
need to tackle any countertop or cabinet installation.
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■ Gallery of Countertops
Go stunning on a budget with a new laminate countertop. The looks available in modern laminate are incredibly varied … and
incredibly realistic. The faux stone countertop shown here is a prime example of what can be achieved with the latest laminate
products and a tight budget.
Pick from a variety of edge profiles with laminates. Long Today’s laminates deliver texture too! A mica-flecked
gone are the basic flat drop fronts of your mother’s laminate engineered surface? Hardly. This is a laminate countertop with
countertops; modern versions offer a wealth of edge profiles. a top texture that re-creates all the imperfections of the most
The choices include the rounded look shown here, which intriguing stone surface. Combined with the amazingly
effectively carries through the illusion of a real stone surface. realistic appearance, laminate textures add a whole new
You can also opt for thicker drop fronts, highly detailed dimension of options for any homeowner looking for a
profiles, and many more. low-cost, stunning countertop.
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Genuine quartz can be a stunning alternative to marble Add a splash of scintillating pattern to any kitchen with a
or granite. This “green” material is mined using eco-friendly quartz countertop. The mesmerizing, flowing design in this
methods, is incredibly durable, and simply looks luxurious. This stone surface contrasts the solid-colored surfaces throughout
white surface, with its bump-out sink edge, is clear evidence of the space and creates a high-quality focal point in the room.
the marvelous looks that can be achieved with quartz.
Turn to unusual materials for a stunning look in a hallmark Add a magical color element to your kitchen with a volcanic
room. This mirrored bathroom is perfectly accented by a rock countertop. The manufacturing process used to create
scintillating blue countertop formed of polished volcanic rock. these surfaces allows for colors from bold to nuanced, creating
Durable, waterproof, and available in a painter’s palette of unique appearances that are truly one-of-kind. The counters in
colors, these countertops are ideal in wet spaces where you this room combine an intriguing visual depth with an incredibly
want to make a design statement. hard, durable material.
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■ Gallery of Countertops
Choose a recycled glass countertop for an enduring surface Spruce up an otherwise sedate kitchen design with an
that sparkles under natural or artificial light. This subtle version island countertop of recycled glass. Not only is this counter a
fits right in with the sophisticated cabinets, backsplash, and wonderful departure from the neutral, solid-colored surfaces
accessories in this kitchen, but small variations in the color throughout the space, it’s also incredibly durable—making a
of the glass used create small, lovely focal points throughout wonderful work surface.
the countertop. Even when it’s time to update the kitchen, the
countertop can remain as a timeless part of the design.
Take advantage of the fun color potential recycled glass countertops offer. This upbeat, whimsical, and colorful kitchen is
perfectly accented with a recycled glass countertop featuring a rainbow of colors that looks like parade confetti. This particular
countertop was a brilliant choice, one that holds its own in a bright and bold kitchen design.
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Create a sophisticated look in the kitchen with granite Go eco-friendly in your kitchen by using a sustainable wood
countertops. Incredibly hard, heat-resistant and available in a countertop. The bamboo used to make this lovely countertop-
range of colors and patterns, this stone is a luxury choice. But and-backsplash combo is fast-growing and can be fabricated
it doesn’t have to break the bank; the countertops shown here to create a number of appearances from the blonde strips
are actually thinner than normal with drop fronts that make it here, to much more exotic colors and grain patterns.
appear as if they are solid granite. It’s an eco-friendly option
because it makes use of granite scraps, not to mention saving
the homeowner money.
Mix incredible durability with a unique appearance by choosing a solid-surface countertop. A countertop like the Corian®
units shown here are colored through and through so that you don’t have to worry about scratches. And the colors and patterns
available are enough to boggle the mind.
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■ Gallery of Countertops
Opt for illusion if you want to save money, help the Use countertops to balance the rest of the room’s design.
environment, and still have a super handsome countertop. Here, pure white recycled paper countertops are ideal to
This recycled paper countertop looks like slate and weighs counteract the effect of dark cabinets in a small kitchen.
every bit as much. It is water resistant, and is easy to install The surfaces also moderate the busy patterns in the space
and maintain. The material can be cut to different shapes, and and perfectly match the farmhouse apron sink. These paper
comes in a wide range of appearances and colors. countertops can be finished semi-gloss or polished to a high-
gloss, making them even more adaptable across a variety of
kitchen décor styles.
Leather? No, paper. Recycled paper countertops allow you to choose a convincingly faux leather or stone countertop that is
much easier to install and usually lower cost. These counters can also be fabricated with many different edge profiles, adding even
more variety to the look.
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■ Gallery of Cabinets
Choose face-frame cabinetry for a traditional look that is timeless and classic. The elegant brown finish of these detailed
cabinets is as practical as it is beautiful, because it won’t show small smudges and stains as a lighter color might. The finish also
matches the door and island table extension, and complements the wood floor.
Frameless cabinets don’t have to equal cold, spare appearances. These stunning cherry-finish frameless cabinets are warm and
stylish, and perfectly accent the other fixtures and appliances in the room. All for a less than what similar framed cabinets would
have cost.
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■ Gallery of Cabinets
Add eye-catching and practical function to any bathroom Make your kitchen a showplace with custom cabinetry in
with a full-height set of cabinets like this country-style unit. stunning high style. Glass fronts are an elegant addition to any
Equipped with special pull-out racks, the cabinets become kitchen, but glass fronts with one-of-a-kind details like the curving
even more useful and well suited to particular toiletries and elements shown here—and replicated in the kitchen’s windows—
linens that should be stored in the room. are a stylistic flourish that elevates the look of the kitchen.
Accessorize your kitchen to meet your cooking needs. Spruce up a laundry while adding a lot of useful storage
Today’s cabinetry includes a wealth of specialized features that space with a few simple cabinets. These frameless units add a
you can include to make cooking and food preparation easy handsome look to the laundry room and plentiful storage for
and pleasurable. This spice rack is one of a vast number of detergents and clothes. Frameless cabinets are a good choice
cabinetry options aimed at the avid home cook. for the laundry room because they maximize interior storage
areas and allow for ease of access.
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Create abundant extra storage by adding cabinets to almost Tailor your cabinet choices to your storage needs. This
any room in the house. This window seat structure makes the inviting window seat includes a cabinet bench with a simple,
most of display shelves built on top of a low-slung cabinet unit deep drawer that is ideal for storing blankets and other bed
that is useful and attractive. The shelves have been built and linens that are used on a seasonal basis.
painted to match the detailing and finish of the cabinet unit,
which creates a lovely unified overall appearance.
Create a spa-like experience by organizing bathroom luxury toiletries in a customized vanity cabinet. The tilt-out makeup
drawer, wire door-mount shelves, and corner shelves all combine to make this vanity cabinet significantly more useful than it
would be if left plain.
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Tools & Materials
I nstalling cabinets and countertops is all about
precision. getting it right means using the correct
tools, but it also means using tools that are in good
MeASUriNG & MArkiNG TOOLS
measuring and marking tools help you prepare cabinet
and countertop materials for fabrication, set up the
shape—like saw blades that are sharp enough to location for proper installation, and are your first
ensure against chipping. As a bonus, having exactly line of defense against small inaccuracies that will lead
the tools you need, when you need them, will make to glaring errors in the finished product. Errors are
detailed installation processes go much quicker and difficult and expensive to fix, so these tools are vitally
easier. last but certainly not least, with the help of the important. Fortunately, most measuring and marking
right tools in the right condition, you’ll wind up with tools are reasonably inexpensive and provide easy ways
cabinets and countertops that look sharp for years, if of measuring for level, square, and plumb. Technologies
not decades, to come. have advanced even among these simple tools, and
The good news is that many of the tools you’ll you’ll find levels, stud finders, and tape measures with
need for any cabinet or countertop project are probably built-in lasers, making them more accurate than ever
in your toolbox right now. The better news is, the before (though at a slightly higher price).
tools you might need buy—a router or biscuit joiner,
for instance—will be incredibly useful for other • A tape measure is one of the most common
woodworking and general DIY projects around the tools, and the odds are good that you already
house. unlike some plumbing or specialty project tools, own at least one. (Keep one in the car for
the implements you’ll need to install any cabinet or trips to the home center or lumberyard.) For
countertop are useful for many different applications. cabinetry and countertop projects, you’ll need a
The tools you’ll need for most cabinet and 25-ft. tape measure. It has a wider and thicker
countertop installations can be broken down into reading surface than a 16-ft. variety, making any
two basic groups: measuring and marking tools, and measuring job a whole lot easier. If you can’t
fabrication and installation tools. tell the difference between the smaller lines on
A
B
C
D
Measuring and marking tools for installing countertops and cabinets include:
(above) tape measure (A), 4-ft. level (B), 2-ft. level (C), combination square (D).
(Opposite page) framing square (E), chalkline (F), stud finder/laser level (G),
T-bevel (H), profile gauge (I).
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a standard tape, consider purchasing an “easy
read” variety. It’s essential that you read the tape
accurately because this is where a lot of mistaken
countertop cuts start.
• A framing square, also known as a carpenter’s
square, is commonly used to mark surfaces for
cutting and to check for square. This is especially
E
important for cutting countertop sections that will
be joined with a butt joint.
• Chalk lines are used to make temporary straight G
lines anywhere one is needed. The case of a chalk
line, or the “box,” is teardrop-shaped so that the
tool can double as a plumb bob. use a chalk line F
to mark walls for ledger or cabinet placement,
and countertops for cutting. Just keep in mind
that chalk can be difficult to remove from porous
surfaces like unsealed stone countertops.
• A stud finder is used to locate the framing
members in a wall or ceiling. higher-priced
versions also locate plumbing, electrical, or
other mechanicals inside the wall. Although stud
finders are not completely necessary, they’re a big
convenience when hanging a large kitchen’s worth
of cabinets.
• Levels are available in a variety of lengths and I
price ranges. The longer the level, the higher the H
price. The two most commonly used sizes are 2-ft.
and 4-ft. lengths. A 2-ft. level is handy for tight
spaces, while the 4-ft. variety serves as a better all-
purpose level. laser levels are handy for creating
a level line around the perimeter of a room or for
establishing level lines over longer lengths. They
provide a wide range of line or spot placement,
depending on the model.
• A T-bevel is a specialized tool for finding and
transferring angles precisely. T-bevels are
generally used in conjunction with a power miter
saw to find the angle of nonsquare corners. This
tool is especially handy in older homes where the
original states of square, plumb, and level may no
longer apply.
• A profile gauge uses a series of pins to re-create
the profile of any object so that you can transfer it
to a work piece. These are essential when running
a profiled backsplash into a perpendicular profiled
backsplash section. profile gauges are especially
useful when scribing to an irregular wall.
• A combination square is a multifunction tool that
provides an easy reference for 45- and 90-degree
angles, as well as marking reveal lines or a
constant specific distance from the edge of a
work piece.
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iNSTALLATiON & FAbriCATiON TOOLS
• A good quality hammer is a must for every • A rasp and metal file set are used to fit joints
cabinetry project. A curved claw hammer, precisely and take the edges off of certain types of
otherwise known as a finish hammer, is a good counters. The variety of shapes, sizes, and mills allow
all-purpose choice. Some people prefer a larger for faster rough removal of material, or smoother slow
straight claw hammer for heavy tear-down projects removal, depending on which you choose.
and rough framing, but these hammers are too • Use a putty knife to fill nail holes with wood filler
clumsy and heavy for driving smaller casing and and for light scraping tasks.
finish nails, and tend to mar the surface of trim. • Clamps are crucial for holding cabinets and
• Utility knives are available with fixed, folding, countertops correctly in position when fitting
or retractable blades. As the name indicates, the sections together, as well as for other chores.
tool is useful for an amazing variety of tasks from
cutting drywall to back-beveling miter joints.
Keep additional blades on hand (most knives
have storage in the handle). Folding fixed-blade
versions offer the durability and strength of a fixed
blade with the protection of a folding handle.
• A set of chisels can be a big plus when installing
cabinet door hardware as well as notching trim
around obstacles and final fitting of difficult pieces.
• A coping saw has a thin, flexible blade designed
to cut curves, and is used for making professional
trim joints on inside corners. Coping saw blades
should be fine toothed, between 16 and 24 teeth
per inch for most hardwoods.
• A sharp handsaw is convenient for quick cut-offs
and in some instances where power saws are
difficult to control. Choose a crosscut saw meant
for general-purpose cutting.
• Protective wear, including safety glasses and ear
protection, is key any time you are working with
loud tools or those that kick up fragments or dust. Pry bars
Dust masks are necessary when sanding, doing
demolition, or when working around fumes.
• Pry bars come in a variety of sizes and shapes. A
quality forged high-carbon steel flat bar is one of
the most useful. They make quick work of existing Protective
cabinets when you need to demo a space prior wear
to updating cabinets and countertops. no matter
what type of pry bar you use, protect finished
surfaces such as floors with a block of wood when
using the bar.
• Side cutters and end nippers are useful for
cutting off and pulling out bent nails. The added
handle length and curved head of end nippers
makes them ideal for pulling larger casing nails.
pneumatic brad nails and smaller pins will pull
out easier with side cutters. purchase a nail set for
countersinking nail heads. Three-piece sets are
available for different nail sizes.
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Putty knife
Handsaws
Nail
sets
Hammer
Utility knives
Coping saw
Rasp and metal file set
Side cutters and end nippers
Block plane
Chisels
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Power Tools
T he right power tools can make fabricating and
installing countertops and cabinets much easier
and quicker. Different cabinet or countertop materials
• A cordless drill (and bit set) is a must-have around
the house, and especially for cabinetry work. Add a
hole saw and a pocket jig to the mix and you’re set
may require different tools, but the ones shown here to work with cabinets and countertops of every type.
represent a well-rounded collection that gives you a • A circular saw is ideal for straight cuts and quick
weapon for any task you face. Some, such as a power cut-offs of solid material. Carbide-tipped blades
miter box, are crucial for truly professional results. look are recommended for most countertop surfaces,
to buy power tools that you’ll use on a regular basis even while a general-purpose blade will work for rough-
after your cabinets and countertops are installed. buy cutting chores.
quality and the extra cost will be amortized in the long • A jigsaw is the perfect tool for cutting curves or
run. When the job calls for a more specialized power sink cutouts in solid-surface countertops. Jigsaw
tool, it’s usually wisest to rent it. blades come in an array of designs for different
Circular saw
Compound power
miter saw
Jigsaw
Reciprocating saw Cordless drill
and bits
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Router Random orbit sander
Biscuit joiner
Power Finish
planer sander
Table saw
Belt sander
styles of cuts and different types and thicknesses • Random orbit sanders are the tool of choice to
of materials. Always use the right type of blade smooth wood and other countertop and cabinet
and do not force the saw during the cut or it may surfaces for a final finish. They don’t leave circular
bend or break. markings as disc sanders do, and can sand in any
• A biscuit joiner is a specialty tool used with glue direction regardless of wood grain.
and biscuits to make strong joints between two • Finish sanders (also called palm sanders) are
sections of some types of countertops. available in a variety of sizes and shapes for
• A reciprocating saw is ideal for removing old cabinets different light sanding applications. They’re best
and countertops quickly and with a minimum of for final sanding because they are slow and
sweat—or cutting wall studs when necessary. labor intensive.
• A compound power miter saw has a head that • A table saw is the best tool for ripping stock to
pivots to cut both bevels and miters, and produces width, and larger models can be fitted with a
pro-quality precision cuts. Sliding miter saws molding head for cutting profiles.
have more cutting capacity but are less portable. • A router (plunge router is shown here) is crucial
A fine-tooth carbide-tipped blade is best for most for putting detailed profiles on the outside edges
cabinetry and countertop materials. of countertops and for cleaning up the surfaces of
• A belt sander is not essential, but can come in other cuts.
handy for quickly removing countertop material.
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Jobsite Preparation
W hether you are installing elaborate, custom, wall-
mounted cabinets or a very basic freestanding
cabinet with built-in countertop, preparing the
Keep the work area clean and organized. A
dedicated table or set aside part of the floor can be
used as a staging platform to organize your tools and
jobsite will be crucial to making the project as easy materials, and instructions as necessary. A tool table
and efficient as possible. remove furniture and or staging area ensures that tools and equipment don’t
other possible obstructions from the room you will disappear, and that they are always at hand when you
be working in so that you won’t worry about getting need them. Add a set of clamps to the table and you
sawdust on your brand new kitchen table or all have a convenient space for fine-tuning the fit of
over your nice tile floor. Cover surfaces and fixtures each piece.
with plastic sheeting and protect vulnerable floors
with cardboard or dropcloths, to protect them from
scratches and make clean-up easier.
Set up tools such as a power miter saw at a central
workstation, to avoid walking long distances between
where you are installing and where you are cutting
material. This central location is key to professional
results because measurements are easier to remember
and quick trimming is possible without the added time
of exiting and entering the house.
make sure the work area is well lit. If you don’t
already own one, purchase a portable light (trouble
A staging area or large, dedicated work table is the perfect
light) to make viewing the work pieces easier. Keep your place to organize tools and materials so that you can find them
tools sharp and clean. Accidents are more likely when when you need them, protect them from damage, and avoid
blades are dull and tools are covered in dust and dirt. wearing a tool belt.
Larger cabinet and countertop installations are best approached by converting the entire room into a temporary workshop,
making sure to protect all the surfaces in the space.
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Project Safety
P ersonal safety should be priority one when working
with cabinets and countertops. The power tools and
hand tools you’ll use to install these fixtures have the
yourself with safety glasses, ear protection, and dust
masks and respirators as necessary.
It’s all a matter of getting into good work
potential to cause serious injuries. That’s why the first habits. Speed is the enemy of safety and can lead to
rule of project safety is to be prepared for any accident fabrication and installation mistakes as well as injury.
by keeping a properly stocked first aid kit nearby. Don’t work when you’re tired and keep your work
Equip your kit with a variety of bandage sizes and other environment clean and free of clutter. Clean your tools
necessary items such as antiseptic wipes, cotton swabs, and put them away after each work session, sweep up
tweezers, sterile gauze, and a first aid handbook. dust and any leftover fasteners, and collect scraps of
To help you avoid using that kit, read the owner’s cut-off trim in a work bucket. These scraps may come
manuals for all power tools before operating them, and in handy before the end of the project, so keep them
follow all the recommended precautions. most tool- around until you’re finished.
related injuries occur from improper or outright misuse Keep safety in mind and you’ll not only wind up
of the tool. never modify the guards on power tools, or with cabinets and countertops to be proud of, but
use a tool on a job for which it wasn’t designed. protect you’ll have gotten there injury free.
Safety Tip ▸
Always wear safety glasses and ear protection when read the owner’s manual before operating any power
operating power tools. Use dust masks when necessary, tool. Your tools may differ in many ways from those
and protect yourself from toxic chemicals with a described in this book, so it’s best to familiarize yourself
respirator. Work gloves save your hands when moving or with the features and capabilities of the tools you own.
handling large and unwieldy cabinets and countertops. Always wear eye and ear protection when operating
Kneepads are useful when working on floor-level projects, a power tool. Wear a dust mask when the project will
such as baseboard. produce dust.
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006-043_30601.indd 24 5/16/13 2:06 PM 006-043_30601.indd 24 5/16/13 1:57 PM (Fogra 39)Job:05-30601 Title:MBI-The Complete Guide to Cabinets & Countertops (Ray) #175 Dtp:225 Page:24
CABINETS
T he fact that cabinets can be neatly divided into two
categories—face-frame and frameless—belies the
incredible diversity of cabinet styles. Cabinets tend
to dominate the look of the rooms in which they are
installed, so it’s fortunate that you can find cabinets
in modern, contemporary, traditional, country, funky,
and even historical period designs. Where cabinets are
concerned, there really is a look for every homeowner
and every home.
Once you get past that decision of whether you
want a frameless or framed cabinet (really, whether
you want a bit more storage and accessibility), you’ll be
deciding on stock, semi-custom, or fully custom units.
Stock units derive their name from being “in-stock” at
the retail store. This means that there is a more limited
set of color and design options among stock cabinets,
but the number of options continues to grow along with
the potential outlets where you can buy these cabinets.
Semi-custom offers a bit more flexibility, allowing you
to swap features in and out of stock cases and door sets,
while custom means just that—a new set of cabinets
built to your specs and tastes.
regardless of which you choose, the most exciting
areas of innovation among cabinets on the market is
the development of increasingly specialized storage
features. These allow you to introduce pantry elements
within your new cabinets—you can add pull-out spice
racks, lid organizers, tiered “stadium” storage features,
and many more. put some thought into the cabinets
you select and the special features they contain, and
you’ll wind up with a wonderful design element that
adds immeasurably to the look and function of a room.006-043_30601.indd 25 5/16/13 2:06 PM 006-043_30601.indd 25 5/16/13 1:57 PM (Fogra 39)Job:05-30601 Title:MBI-The Complete Guide to Cabinets & Countertops (Text) (Ray) #175 Dtp:225 Page:25
Cabinet Selection
B uying new cabinets involves more decisions than
just the look of the cabinet. First, you need to
decide if you want to go with stock, semi-custom, or
some special features and a custom look, but at a
lower price than true custom cabinetry. You should
allow at least three to eight weeks of lead time when
custom cabinets. Then you need to choose between ordering semi-custom cabinets.
face-frame and frameless styles. Those decisions
will, in turn, lead to decisions on doors, drawers,
accessories, hardware, and finishes. ■ Custom
Stock cabinets and some semi-custom cabinets Custom cabinets give the most flexibility in design,
are manufactured and intended for homeowners appearance, and special features. These cabinets are
to install themselves; custom cabinets usually are designed, built, and installed to fit a unique space.
installed by the cabinetmaker. There’s a growing It is wise to shop around before settling on a custom
trend in “unfitted” kitchen systems, too. Seen most cabinetmaker because price, quality, and availability
frequently in European kitchens, the cabinets vary widely. The minimum lead time for custom
and shelves are modular—like pieces of storage cabinet construction is six weeks in most markets.
furniture—rather than built-in or fitted. When you get bids, find out if the lead time is from
acceptance of the bid or from when the condition of
■ Stock the kitchen allows the cabinetmaker to take accurate
measurements. remember that exotic or difficult-to-
Stock cabinets are available as either ready-to-assemble machine materials and intricate custom designs will
(rTA) or ready-to-install. ready-to-assemble cabinets, end up costing you more and taking more time
also referred to as knockdown or flat-pack, are shipped to deliver.
as flat components that the consumer puts together
using connecting hardware. In other words, in addition
to installing the cabinets, you have to assemble them.
Your options will be somewhat limited if you choose
rTA cabinets, but you will be able to achieve a slightly
different look from ready-to-install cabinets. rTA Standard Cabinet Sizes ▸
cabinets are known for their low price points. however,
although some rTA cabinets are made with low-quality base cabinets (without countertop)
materials, not all are poorly constructed. Carefully Height 341⁄2"
inspect samples of assembled cabinets to check Depth 24"
material and engineering quality. If possible, also look at Width 6" to 42", in 3" increments
assembly directions to check for clarity.
ready-to-install cabinets are purchased already Wall cabinets
assembled. They tend to be lower quality, but typical Height 12", 15", 18", 24", 30", 36"
utility units are suitable for a workshop or a weekend Depth 12"
home. larger home centers will generally carry a limited Width 6" to 36", in 3" increments
selection of ready-to-install units, usually made from a
relatively economical species of wood, such as red oak, Oven cabinets
or finished with a color layer such as white melamine. Height 83", 95"
Depth 24"
■ Semi-Custom Width 30", 33"
Semi-custom cabinets are also factory-made to Pantry cabinets
standard sizes, but they offer far more options in Height 83", 95"
finish, size, features, and materials than you’ll find Depth 24"
in stock cabinets. Semi-custom is the best choice for Width 18", 24"
homeowners who want better-quality cabinets with
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Face-Frame vs. Frameless ▸
Once you have decided between factory-
made or custom cabinets, you need to
choose the type of cabinet: face-frame
or frameless.
Face-frame cabinets have frames
made of solid wood around the front
of the cabinet box. Because the frame
extends into the opening space, the door
openings will be reduced and a certain
amount of “dead” space exists within the
cabinet behind the frames. The hinges
for doors on face-frame cabinets mount
on the frame. The door itself may be
flush within the frame or raised above
it. Flush-fitting doors were common on
older cabinets. But because they require
a precise fit, which means more time
and craftsmanship, they will be more
expensive and more difficult to find.
Face-frame cabinets have openings that are completely surrounded by
Frameless cabinets are often referred face frames made of vertical stiles and horizontal rails. They give kitchens a
traditional look and are the most common style used in bathrooms.
to as “Euro-style.” These cabinets do
not have a face-frame and the doors
and drawers span the entire width of
the carcass, which allows easier access
and a bit more storage space. The doors
are mounted using cup hinges that are
invisible when the doors are closed.
Frameless cabinets have a streamlined
look that makes them feel more
contemporary in style. One drawback
of frameless cabinets is that they do
not have the added strength of the face
frame, so it is critical that they are solidly
constructed and properly installed.
Frameless cabinets, sometimes called “European-style,” are more
contemporary. Because they have no face frames, frameless cabinets offer
slightly more storage space than framed cabinets. That’s why they are also
commonly used in laundry rooms and for utility spaces, such as a garage or
storage area.
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Cabinet Door Mounting Styles
T he appearance of any cabinet’s doors largely sets
the tone for the overall look of the cabinets. not
only are doors, like the cabinet cases themselves,
distinguished by the wood used and how it is finished,
cabinet doors can also look very different depending
on how they are mounted on the cabinets and the
construction of the door itself. Doors are mounted in
one of three ways: overlay, inset, or partial inset.
• Overlay doors are mounted in front of the face
frame, partially or completely obscuring the
face frame. Frameless overlay doors conceal the
cabinet case wall edges. Full overlay doors are a
A concealed hinge like this can usually be adjusted in three
contemporary look, with a streamlined appearance
directions, and many contain a self-closing feature that will pull
in which the style and finish of the doors the door shut by itself.
themselves dominates the appearance of
the cabinets.
• Inset doors are mounted between the inside you’ll most likely want to use a type of surface-mounted
edges of the face frame or within the cabinet case hinge, because cutting mortises in the material would
sides on a frameless cabinet. Consequently, the be problematic. You’ll also find specialty hinges, such
face frame or cabinet case edges are fully visible. as extension hinges for opening the door in a wider arc
This is a somewhat busier look because the face than normal, which can be a big help in a busy kitchen
frame—including the joint seams—are entirely or on an especially deep cabinet.
visible. It’s also the least efficient mounting Concealed hinges are just that, invisible when the
method in terms of accessible storage. door is closed. These are most often used on modern
• Partial inset cabinet doors have a lip that or frameless cabinets because they reinforce the sleek
partially conceals the face frame, while the look established by those door styles. most concealed
body of the door is inset between the face frame hinges are surface mounted, making them easy to
edges. This was once a popular style, but because install because they don’t require cutting a mortise.
fabrication and installation of partial inset doors These are usually adjustable as well, allowing you to
requires a greater level of craftsmanship, adding fine-tune the door fit in three directions without much
to the expense of the cabinets, this style has fallen expertise or specialized tools.
out of favor. Semi-concealed hinges are also known as inset
hinges because they are most commonly used for inset
■ Hinge Styles doors (you’ll find variations for use with partial inset
doors). In most cases, these hinges are simple “butt”
Cabinet door hinges come in an astounding number hinges, with a central post and two tongues pivoting
of variations, but can be broken into concealed, semi- off the post. The tongues are usually mortised into the
concealed, and decorative surface mounted. The door on one side, and the face frame or cabinet case
cabinet door style you’ve chosen may determine which on the other. The pin is usually visible.
hinge is best—or which you can and cannot use—but Decorative hinges can be surface mounted or
in most cases, you’ll have a choice of hinges. Also be mortised, but the idea is the same—to show both the
aware that the cabinet material may influence your pin and the tongues of the hinge. Decorative hinges
choice of hinge. For instance, if you’ve opted for the are mostly reserved for period-style or themed décor
lower cost of particle board or mDF cabinet cases, cabinets (such as a country kitchen).
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Cabinet Door Construction Styles
N o matter how they are mounted, the actual
appearance of a cabinet door is determined by
the way it is constructed. There are three basic types
the outer frame of the door and the inner panel).
The complexity in construction makes these some
of the most expensive doors on the market.
of cabinet door: flat (or recessed) panel, raised panel, • Recessed panel. A plainer look than raised panel
and slab or “flat front” doors. Each is associated with doors, this style features a center section that is
specific décor styles, and costs vary widely between the lower than the surrounding frame of the door—
three styles. Specialty units, such as those with louvers often just a flat section in the middle of the door.
or glass fronts, constitute a fourth group known as The transitional border between the frame and
accent doors. because they are usually more expensive the center of the door can be a detailed profile
than other versions, these are best used sparingly to molding, but is more often left plain. The look is
offset a wall full of more standard cabinet fronts. clean and streamlined, making this an obvious
choice for modern or contemporary rooms.
• Raised panel. These are some of the most • Slab. Flat-front cabinet doors are simpler to
common cabinet door styles because they suit a construct, which is why they are associated with
wide range of room design styles, from traditional lower cost cabinetry. but flat-front doors are also a
to contemporary. The center panel is raised up (in key part of the “European” look, defined by clean
reality, there is usually a recess or miter between lines and an uncomplicated appearance.
Flat-front panels are common on less expensive cabinetry, The details of raised panel cabinet doors shows best with
but the sleek style also finds a home on high-end modern a dark finish that emphasizes the edge profile of the central
units, such as the boldly colored cabinets in this kitchen. panel. As this kitchen shows, it’s a sophisticated look that adds
immensely to the room’s appeal.
recessed panel doors present a stately look. They feature a recessed panels allow for special details such as the
timeless simplicity that makes this style appropriate for a wide curved decorative inserts that grace the doors on these
range of room designs. elegant dining room base cabinets.
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Create Your Drawings
use the icons shown here and 1⁄4" graph paper to create drawings for your new kitchen. use a scale of
1
⁄2"= 1 ft. (1 square = 6") when drawing your plans; the icons are drawn to match this scale.
Plan view (overhead) templates for 24"-deep base cabinets
8" 12" 18" 24" 30" 33"
36" 42" 48"
54" 60"
Corner base
Plan view (overhead) templates for 12"-deep wall cabinets
Refrigerator wall cabinet
36" wide × 24" deep Corner
12" 18" 24"
Refrigerator wall
Corner
cabinet 36" 42" wall cabinet
33" wide × 24" deep
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Universal Design
Design your kitchen around a clear, circular space of at least 5 ft. in diameter to provide room for a
wheelchair. If your kitchen doesn’t have 60" of clear space, allow 48" for pathways. Plan for 30 to 48" of
clear approach space in front of all appliances and workstations.
Note: The
arrangement of
elements does not
reflect an actual
layout.
Side-door Pull-down
Pull-out oven with Cooktop with open Foldaway shelving
surface open space space below doors
below
36" Cabinet
with 32"
30" to 34" drawers
36" 36" 36"
Cabinets
with
pull-
down
shelving
Pantry
with
Lazy
Pull-out Susan
Foldaway surface
doors
Raised
dishwasher
Rolling
cart
38" Side-
32" by-side 36"
Cabinet refrigerator
with
drawers
36"
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New Cabinet Prep
I nstalling new cabinets is easiest if the space—
preferably the whole room—is completely empty.
Where appropriate and possible, disconnect plumbing
and wiring, and temporarily remove the appliances
and any other fixtures that are not built in. remove
old cabinets and countertops as necessary. If the
new installation will require plumbing or electrical
changes, now is the time to have that work done.
If the flooring is to be replaced, finish it before
beginning the layout and the installation of cabinets. Filled-in
low area
no matter where you put them, cabinets must
be installed plumb and level. using a level as a guide,
draw reference lines on the walls to indicate cabinet
location. If the floor is uneven, find the highest point
of the floor area that will be covered by base cabinets.
measure up from this point to draw reference lines.
because cabinets call for precise installation,
detail-oriented preparation is key to a successful final
appearance and function. This is one of those projects
for which the advice, “measure twice, cut once,” is
especially applicable. Take care at this stage, and
you’ll be ensuring a smooth process for the rest of the
installation.
Tools & Materials ▸
Stud finder marking pencil
pry bar Tape measure
Trowel 1 × 3 boards
putty knife Straight 6- to 8-ft.-long
Screwdriver 2×4
Straightedge Wallboard compound
level 21⁄2" wallboard screws
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Stud locations
1×3
ledger
Reference
line
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■ removing Old Cabinets
Old cabinets can be salvaged fairly easily if they are
modular units that were installed with screws. Some Tools & Materials ▸
custom built-in cabinets can be removed in one piece.
If you’re not planning on salvaging the cabinets, they Tape measure reciprocating saw
should be cut into pieces or otherwise broken down pry bar hammer
and discarded. If you’re demolishing your old cabinets, putty knife Eye protection
you still need to exercise caution to prevent causing Cordless screwdriver Scrap wood
collateral damage in the room, especially to existing Sander 2×4
plumbing and electrical lines. Stud finder Wallboard compound
Taping knife 1 × 3 lumber
level 21⁄2" wallboard screws
laser level
■ How to remove Cabinets
1 2
remove trim moldings at the edges and tops of the remove base shoe from cabinet base if the molding is
cabinets with a flat pry bar or putty knife. attached to the floor.
3 4
remove baseboards and other trim moldings with a pry bar. remove valances above cabinets. Some valances are
Protect wall surfaces with scraps of wood. Label the baseboards attached to the cabinets or soffits with screws. Others are
and trim on the back so you can replace them correctly. nailed and must be pried loose.
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5 6
High-end countertops such as marble or granite should remove doors and drawers to make it easier to get at
be carefully separated from the tops of the cabinets. Less interior spaces. You may need to scrape away old paint to
expensive countertops are usually not salvageable. Cut them expose hinge screws and other fasteners.
into manageable pieces with a reciprocating saw, or take them
apart, piece by piece, with a hammer and pry bar.
7 8
At the backs of cabinets, remove any screws holding the Detach individual cabinets by removing screws that
cabinet to the wall. Cabinets can be removed as a group or hold face frames together. You may need to unscrew other
can be disassembled. attachment screws in the sides of cabinets.
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■ How to Prepare Walls
1 2
Find high and low spots on wall surfaces using a long, Fill in low spots in the wall by applying drywall joint
straight 2 × 4. Sand down any high spots. compound with a taping knife. Feather edges carefully. Let the
compound dry, and then sand lightly.
3 4
Locate and mark wall studs using an electronic stud finder. Find the highest point along the floor that will be covered by
Cabinets normally will be hung by driving screws into the studs base cabinets. Place a level on a long, straight 2 × 4, and move
through the back of the cabinets. the board across the floor to determine if the floor is uneven.
Mark the wall at the highest point.
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5 6
34 1⁄ 2"
84"
High
point
Measure up 341⁄2" from the high-point mark (for standard Measure up 84" from the high-point mark and draw a second
cabinets). Use a level (a laser level is perfect) to mark a reference line. Wall cabinets will be installed with their top
reference line on the walls. Base cabinets will be installed with edges flush against this line.
the top edges flush against this line.
7 8
30"
Measure down 30" from the wall-cabinet reference line and install 1 × 3 temporary ledgers with top edges flush against
draw another level line where the bottoms of the cabinets will the reference lines. Attach ledgers with 21⁄2" wallboard screws
be. Temporary ledgers will be installed against this line. driven into every other wall stud. Mark stud locations on
the ledgers. Cabinets will rest temporarily on ledgers during
installation (the ledgers alone will not support them, however).
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Stock Cabinets
W hen budget is your chief concern, you’ll probably
be shopping for stock cabinetry. These are
sometimes called “in-stock” cabinets because they are
it also makes stock cabinets ideal for more unusual
spaces such as laundry rooms or mud rooms. The
more modest quality of many stock units will also not
the standard units that home centers and other stores be so apparent in these types of utilitarian spaces.
either keep on hand or in a warehouse deliverable Stock cabinets are often frameless, a reflection of
within a day or two. These days, the design options inexpensive production costs. but you can also find
among stock cabinets are more varied than they once face-frame units on the higher end of the spectrum,
were, but they are still more limited than what you’ll and even special features like pull-out spice racks and
find among semi-custom or custom units. solid wood doors.
What you give up in style choices with stock no matter what extra features you choose,
cabinets, you gain in standardization. They are usually however, you want stock cabinets to be solidly built
offered in widths ranging from 1 foot to up to 5 feet and durable. Signs of quality are the same regardless
wide, in increments of 1 or 3 inches. This means you of price point.
will need to use filler strips when the gap between a
cabinet and a wall or fixture is less than the minimum • Dovetailed drawers ensure that these high-use
cabinet increment for the units you are buying. features won’t fall apart before the cabinets do.
heights vary from 30 inches up to 36 inches tall Drawer boxes constructed of solid wood are a sure
(34 1/2 inches tall by 24 inches deep is standard). sign of high-quality stock cabinetry.
Smaller units are also available for specialized • Plywood is an indicator of rugged cabinet boxes.
locations, such as over a stove. This uniformity can many lower-end stock cabinets are constructed
make laying out a full kitchen installation easy, but with particle board or mDF, with a very thin layer
of veneer. These boxes can be a weak spot for low
cost units; plywood is likely to last longer and stay
in better shape over the life of the cabinets.
• Drawer glides, rather than just channels or wood
guides, are a true sign of quality in stock cabinetry.
Although they may not make a big difference in
the look of the cabinets, metal drawer glides allow
the drawers to hold up better to wear and tear
over time, and make it much less frustrating to
use the drawers.
• The extras. Additional features can indicate a
better quality stock cabinet. glass inserts, special
moldings and kick plates, decorative corbels or
faux feet are all signs of stock cabinets that aspire
to semi-custom quality.
• Warranties and guarantees are also fairly
reliable gauges of how durable the cabinets will
be over time and use. The better and tougher the
construction, the longer the company will back up
the cabinets. At the lower end of the scale, expect
Stock cabinets are sold in boxes that are keyed to door warranties of a year or less. better cabinets will be
and drawer packs (you need to buy these separately). It is warrantied for up to five years. The length of the
important that you realize this when you are estimating your warranty usually directly relates to the durability
project costs (often a door pack will cost as much or more than
of the cabinets.
the cabinet itself).
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■ Working with Stock Cabinets
You have to honestly assess your abilities when ready-to-install units. Although assembly requires only
shopping for stock cabinetry. Although they don’t really moderate DIY skills, be prepared to spend nearly an
require much skill, ready-to-assemble units take a hour on each run of base or wall-mounted cabinets. As
little work and an attention to detail to fabricate. If you with all cabinet installations, patience and attention to
aren’t thrilled about tackling assembly, you can choose detail are crucial to good-looking results.
Stock cabinets can tend toward plain, but that doesn’t mean that they’re ugly. These modest units show that the right stock
cabinets in the right space can create a clean, streamlined, and handsome look. Especially when coupled with granite countertops
and stainless-steel appliances. The right stock units can add immeasurably to a laundry room or other utility or work space (inset).
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Wall-Mounted Cabinets
N o matter where they are installed, wall-mounted
cabinets are a great way to use vertical space. In
a kitchen, they supply ample room for dry goods on
Tools & Materials ▸
a wall above a countertop. bathroom wall cabinets handscrew clamps Toe-kick molding
are your chance to expand storage for toilet paper level Filler strips
and other essentials without taking up precious hammer Valance
floor space. laundry room wall-mounted cabinets utility knife 6d finish nails
put cleaning supplies right at fingertips, making an nail set Finish washers
unappealing chore less so. C-clamps 2 1/2", 4" wood screws
As with other types of cabinets, installing wall power drill 2 1/2" cabinet screws or
cabinets is a matter of precision. When mounting Counterbore drill bit flathead wood screws
a cabinet or row of cabinets at eye level, errors are phillips screwdriver Sheet-metal screws
magnified. That’s why it’s a good rule of thumb to 1 x 3 lumber #8 panhead wood screws
always install wall-mounted cabinets before you put Cabinets 3" drywall screws
base cabinets in place, or install any floor-mounted Trim molding Shims
fixtures. having plenty of room to move around is one
way to head off any potential mistakes.
The instructions in the pages that follow focus local codes regarding the proper distance between the
on surface-mounted units. When you’re installing a bottom of wall-mounted cabinets and heat sources
medicine chest or any cabinetry that requires inset such as a range top. We also suggest setting out a
installation, follow the manufacturer’s directions—and run of wall-mounted cabinets along the wall before
basic safety procedures such as checking the wall installation, to check measurements, fit, and visualize
cavities for electrical lines running inside walls. any problems or challenges. On bigger jobs such as
In any case, double-check that no vents, outlets, installing wall cabinets for a large kitchen, mark the
or other essential features will be blocked by the cabinets with notes referencing their relative positions,
installation of a wall cabinet. You’ll want to reference by using a marker and painter’s tape.
The right wall cabinets in
the right place can provide
a surprising amount of extra
storage, such as the upper
cabinets in this entryway
system. Using wall cabinets
that match the rest of the
structure maintains a unified
design that makes the space
look sharp.
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■ How to install Wall Cabinets
1 2
Position a corner upper cabinet on a ledger and hold it in Attach a filler strip to the front edge of the cabinet, if needed
place, making sure it is resting cleanly on the ledger. Drill 3⁄16" (see page 38). Clamp the strip in place and drill counterbored
pilot holes into the wall studs through the hanging strips at the pilot holes through the cabinet face frame near hinge
top rear of the cabinet. Attach the cabinet to the wall with 21⁄2" locations. Attach the filler strip to cabinet with 21⁄2" cabinet
screws. Do not tighten fully until all cabinets are hung. screws or flathead wood screws.
3 4
Position the adjoining cabinet on the ledger, tight against Check the front cabinet edges or face frames for plumb. Drill
the corner cabinet or filler strip. Clamp the corner cabinet 3
⁄16" pilot holes into the wall studs through the hanging strips in
and the adjoining cabinet together at the top and bottom. the rear of the cabinet. Attach the cabinet with 21⁄2" screws. Do
Handscrew clamps will not damage wood face frames. not tighten the wall screws fully until all the cabinets are hung.
(continued)
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5 6
Attach the corner cabinet to the adjoining cabinet. From the Position and attach each additional cabinet. Clamp the
inside corner cabinet, drill pilot holes through the case. Join the frames together, and drill counterbored pilot holes through the
cabinets with sheet-metal screws. side of the frame. Join the cabinets with wood screws. Drill 3⁄16"
pilot holes in the hanging strips, and attach the cabinet to the
studs with wood screws.
7 8
Join the cabinets with #8 × 11⁄4" panhead wood screws or Fill the gaps between the cabinet and wall or neighboring
wood screws with decorative washers. Each pair of cabinets appliance with a filler strip. Cut the filler strip to fit the space,
should be joined by at least four screws. then wedge wood shims between the filler strip and the wall
to create a friction fit that holds it in place temporarily. Drill
counterbored pilot holes through the side of the cabinet (or the
edge of the face frame) and attach the filler with screws.
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9 10
remove the temporary ledger. Check the cabinet run for Use trim moldings to cover any gaps between the cabinets
plumb, and adjust if necessary by placing wood shims behind and the walls. Stain the moldings to match the cabinet finish.
the cabinet, near the stud locations. Tighten the wall screws
completely. Cut off the shims with a utility knife.
11 12
Attach a decorative valance above the sink. Clamp the install the cabinet doors. If necessary, adjust the hinges so
valance to the edge of cabinet frames and drill counterbored that the doors are straight and plumb.
pilot holes through the cabinet frames and into the end of the
valance. Attach with sheet-metal screws.
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Base Cabinets
B ase cabinets can serve as the foundation for
a room's design, especially in the kitchen or
bathroom. Today’s base cabinets are much more than
But no matter what features you’ve chosen, the
cabinets need to be installed level for everything to
work correctly. You can also save yourself a lot of
simple storage boxes; they can be outfitted with a frustration and effort by performing any upgrades to
vast range of specialized features to accommodate electrical or plumbing systems before installing the
extremely specific storage needs. More and more stock cabinets.
cabinets are being offered with these features (and can Flooring represents an often-overlooked factor in
easily be retrofitted with them), including lazy Susans, base cabinet installation, but it’s immensely important.
pull-out spice racks, vertical inserts for plates, lids, You’ll need to figure in the finished floor height in your
or flat baking sheets and pans, and even specialized cabinet calculations, but that height will depend on
drawers designed to hold makeup or cutlery. more than the flooring you’ve chosen for the room.
Some flooring, such as linoleum, is not meant to be
placed under installed cabinetry because the material
needs to expand and contract. Most other flooring
materials should be run under the cabinets.
Just as it’s easier to install most final flooring
before installing the base cabinets, it’s also wise to
check the location of plumbing and electrical lines
and connections before attaching base cabinets
to wall surfaces. You’ll need to cut the appropriate
openings for these connections, but you’ll also need
to accommodate the placement and installation of
features such as sinks, faucets, and dishwasher lines
that run through cabinet sidewalls.
As much as possible, test-fit fixtures and features
before installing the base cabinets. You’ll want to know
that there is room for the sink to fit into the top of
the base cabinet, but this will also give you a chance
to determine the order of installation. For instance,
it may be wiser to install a faucet before installing
the sink, if the sink is so deep that it will make for
a difficult time getting to the nuts on the underside
of the faucet. The more you can troubleshoot issues
like this, the more likely your base cabinets will go in
without a hitch.
Obviously, there are a lot of variables involved
with base cabinet installation. But work through the
process one logical step at a time, and you’ll find that
the skills needed are actually fairly modest. Just about
anyone who can handle a power drill and jigsaw can
install a set of base cabinets in a day.
Base cabinets come in many sizes and shapes, but they all
share certain common traits. The cabinets under this window
seat were installed just as kitchen base cabinets would be,
with doors and a toe-kick plate that mimics those found on
kitchen base cabinets.
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1 2
Begin the installation with a corner cabinet. Draw plumb Place the cabinet in the corner. Make sure the cabinet is
lines that intersect the 341⁄2" reference line (measured from the plumb and level. If necessary, adjust by driving wood shims
high point of the floor) at the locations for the cabinet sides. under the cabinet base. Be careful not to damage the flooring.
Drill 3⁄16" pilot holes through the hanging strip and into the
wall studs. Tack the cabinet to the wall with wood screws or
wallboard screws.
3 4
Clamp the adjoining cabinet to the corner cabinet. Make Use a jigsaw to cut any cabinet openings needed in the
sure the new cabinet is plumb, then drill counterbored pilot cabinet backs (for example, in the sink base seen here) for
holes through the cabinet sides or the face frame and filler plumbing, wiring, or heating ducts.
strip. Screw the cabinets together. Drill 3⁄16" pilot holes through
the hanging strips and into the wall studs. Tack the cabinets
loosely to the wall studs with wood screws or wallboard
screws.
(continued)
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5 6
Position and attach additional cabinets, making sure the Make sure all the cabinets are level. If necessary, adjust by
frames are aligned and the cabinet tops are level. Clamp driving shims underneath the cabinets. Place the shims behind
cabinets together, then attach the face frames or cabinet sides the cabinets near the stud locations to fill any gaps. Tighten the
with screws driven into pilot holes. Tack the cabinets to the wall screws. Cut off the shims with a utility knife.
wall studs, but don’t drive screws too tight—you may need to
make adjustments once the entire bank is installed.
7 8
Toe-kick molding
Use trim moldings to cover gaps between the cabinets and Hang the cabinet doors and mount the drawer fronts, then
the wall or floor. The toe-kick area is often covered with a strip test to make sure they close smoothly and the doors fit evenly
of wood finished to match the cabinets or painted black. and flush. Self-closing cabinet hinges (by far the most common
type installed today) have adjustment screws that allow you to
make minor changes to the hardware to correct any problems.
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Adjusting European Hinges ▸
European hinges (also called cup hinges) are the standard
hinges used on frameless cabinets and some face-frame
A C
cabinets. One advantage of these hinges is their adjustability.
This adjustability means that you will need some patience to
tackle this project.
At first glance, European hinges appear to need a Phillips B
screwdriver to be adjusted, but you will have more success
A
if you use a Pozidrive #2 screwdriver. This looks like a
Phillips driver, but it is engineered with extra blade tips for
reduced slippage. Never use a power screwdriver for hinge
adjustments.
European hinges have three adjustment screws that secure Long-arm European hinges. The standard long-arm
the hinge to the door and cabinet while moving the door in European hinge has four adjustment screws. The first pair
(A) attach to the mounting plate to the side of the cabinet.
and out, up and down, or right to left. If you own face-frame
Loosen these screws slightly on both hinges to move the
cabinets, the hinges may be more compact than frameless
cabinet up and down vertically. Retighten the screws when
cabinet hinges. Some of the most compact hinges have you have the hinge aligned as desired. The third adjustment
unique adjustment systems, so you may have more trial and screw (B) attaches the hinge to the mounting plate. If this
error in installing them. screw is loose, the door will move in and out and seem
floppy. This screw should be in the same relative position in
its slot as the B screw on the other hinge, and they should
Before making any adjustments, try tightening the anchoring
both always be tight. The fourth screw (C) adjusts the door
screw or the vertical adjustment screws. Often these screws left and right horizontally. Adjust one hinge at a time in small
have worked loose over time and are affecting the door increments by turning the screw. Check the adjustment
alignment and function. results frequently by closing the door.
B C A
A
B
C Compact European hinges. The compact European
hinge for overlay doors on face-frame cabinets has three
adjustment screws. The first pair (A) attach to the mounting
European hinges. Cabinet doors with European hinges clip to the side or front of the face frame. Screws B and C
can be adjusted in three dimensions: vertical (up and down) attach the hinge to the mounting plate and serve as the left
(A); depth (in and out) (B); and horizontal (right and left) (C). and right adjustment. Loosen all the A screws slightly to adjust
If your cabinets are slightly out of alignment, begin door the door up or down, then tighten. Loosen or tighten one B
installation with the center cabinet and work your way out or C screw in small increments to move the door left or right.
to one side and then the other. Check the adjustment results frequently by closing the door.
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Frameless Cabinetry
U nderstanding frameless cabinetry means
understanding a bit of history. prior to the late
1950s, the only type of cabinets mass produced in
identifiable in its own right. most frameless cabinets
feature a clean, streamlined look that is called
“european,” a nod to the origin of the construction
america were those built with face frames. that style. the look also translates very well to high-end
was the traditional style of construction dating from contemporary and modern decors, where frameless
the turn of the century, when cabinets were hand cabinets just naturally fit into the uncluttered
crafted. as they geared up for mass production, aesthetic. Frameless cabinets are often fitted with
manufacturers tooled their operations to produce face- flat-front “slab doors” that reinforce the look, and
frame cabinetry, and that’s about all you could find make it ideal for presenting bold colors such as red
until european vendors—most notably iKea—began and lime green.
marketing in america. on the functional side, frameless cabinets offer
that history is why face-frame cabinetry still storage that is a bit easier to access because there is
dominates the american marketplace (over 80 percent no lip around the front edge of the cabinet to block
of the cabinets sold in america today are framed), and reaching into the interior—as there is on a face-
why the selection of frameless cabinets is somewhat framed unit. this is a nice extra that makes it that
more limited than the options among face-frame units. much simpler to slide plates and heavy objects in and
Fortunately, the frameless style continues to grow in out of the cabinets. it also means one less area where
popularity, and more frameless designs are available dirt can be trapped.
than ever before. Frameless cabinets are installed in pretty much
early frameless cabinets were low-end units, the same way, and with the same tools, that framed
usually reserved for utility spaces such as laundry cabinets are. however, attaching doors will usually be
rooms, garages, and college dorm rooms. the selection a bit easier because you won’t need to contend with
has expanded greatly since then, and today you’ll find the lip. in the final analysis, if the look appeals to
sleek, modern stock frameless cabinets well-suited to your tastes and suits the other fixtures and features in
a high-end kitchen remodel. the room, frameless cabinets can be the ideal storage
in fact, as the frameless cabinets have become option for both high-profile rooms such as the kitchen
more popular, their look has evolved and become and more utilitarian spaces such as a laundry room.
Simple, understated
and streamlined,
frameless cabinets are
a great look and easy to
install in the right space.
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Even a small kitchen such as this can be brought to life by the right stylish frameless cabinets. The addition of frosted glass fronts
to the wall-mounted cabinets in this room puts the icing on the cake.
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Freestanding Cabinets
A s you shop for cabinets, you’ll likely come
across a type that is fairly new in America but
that has been around for a long time in europe:
process without wrestling with large pieces. installing
a freestanding kitchen cabinet system is similar to
most other wall-cabinet installations. You need to
the freestanding cabinet. Boasting a contemporary begin with level wall surfaces. The cabinets are hung
appearance and ease of installation, these on a suspension rail and then bolted to the bar. The
cabinets bring the added benefits of portability bolts, in the upper inside corners of the cabinets,
and interchangeability (sink base cabinets are a are then covered with plastic caps. if you install
notable exception). Most freestanding bases come the suspension rail properly, this type of installation
in an assortment of materials, colors, and sizes with ensures that your cabinets will be level. if you add toe-
matching upper cabinets. The upper cabinets are hung kick panels to your base cabinets, they will be virtually
nontraditionally, usually mounting directly onto a rail indistinguishable from fully installed base cabinets.
that is attached to the wall, which can also support Or, you can create a european look by installing
shelves and organizer bins. attractive legs and leaving the toe-kick covers off.
Freestanding cabinets, like their permanently When opting for this look, cut the ledger board 5" to
installed counterparts, are usually shipped and sold 6" short, and install a third leg on the exposed end
in flat packs. Because they are sold ready to assemble cabinets so that the ledger board will not be visible.
(rTA), you’ll have to assemble your cabinets before When creating an island with base cabinets, you must
installing them. attach the legs to the floor to prevent movement. A
it is best to start your assembly with a basic, sink base cabinet must also be secured to ensure that
small cabinet. That way, you can get the knack of the it is stationary.
Freestanding base cabinets really have more in common with furniture—including ease of installation—than cabinetry, but they
serve the same important function as traditionally installed cabinets do.
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European-style freestanding base cabinets are a distinctive look that naturally pair well with metals such as the stainless
steel legs and sink shown in these photos, and with natural materials such as wood.
Tips for Installing Freestanding Cabinets ▸
• Carefully unpack each carton and double-check the
contents against the instruction sheets.
• Use painters’ tape to attach hardware packets and
instructions to their respective parts.
• Check nooks and crannies of packing materials.
Hardware bags are often encased in packing materials.
• Parts may be grouped—for example, the ledger
boards are packed with the toe-kick boards.
• If you are assembling large cabinets in another
room, make sure you have the space to move them
to the kitchen when fully assembled (check room
door widths).
• Make sure the proper side of the cabinet back faces
the inside of the cabinet.
• Check that drawers are right side up before drilling
handle holes.
• Fiberboard material is very heavy. You should have at
least one helper when installing.
Freestanding base cabinets come in as wide range
of styles as other types of cabinets. You’ll find units with
shelves, drawers, and simple cabinets.
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Customizing Stock Cabinets
E ven if you don’t have the time or need to pursue a
complete kitchen remodel, or you want to dress up
the stock cabinets you’ve purchased, there are ways to
easily freshen the look of your cabinets. raise a single
wall cabinet within a bank of cabinets to create more
space for countertop appliances or simply to change
the look. This tactic works especially well on corner
cabinets. Or, you can convert a cabinet to open shelving
and create a new display area. Adding crown molding
to stock cabinets will give your whole kitchen a more
finished look. You can really dress up a stock cabinet
by removing a cabinet door panel and replacing it with
glass, to form an enclosed display space.
Create a display cabinet from a frameless unit. If your
cabinets have removable shelves, you can transform one or
more of them into a display cabinet. Begin by removing the
door and hinges and removing the existing shelves and shelf
supports. Fill the screw holes and finish to match the cabinet
exterior. Paint the inside of the cabinet with gloss enamel.
Create a template with guide holes for pin-style shelf supports.
Drill the holes for the shelf supports. Measure the space and
order tempered glass shelves to fit.
Raise a cabinet. To raise a cabinet, remove the contents of the cabinet and the adjoining cabinets. Remove any trim or
crown molding. Remove the screws holding the face frames together or the binder bolts holding the cabinet cases together
in a frameless cabinet. Remove the screws holding the cabinet to the wall. Move the cabinet up 4 to 6". It is likely it will stick
from paint or age. If so, use a hammer against a padded piece of 2 × 4 to persuade it to move (you’ll want a helper to steady
the cabinet). Reinstall the cabinet at its new height. Refinish the cabinet sides to match.
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Attach crown molding. Generally, this
project works best for face-frame cabinets
because frameless cabinets do not have
the traditional look that crown molding
complements. If your cabinets have exposed
sides with a lip or edge trim, you will need
to remove a portion of the lip or add a 3⁄4"
wide x 1⁄8" trim strip to build up the side to
match the lip. To remove the lip, measure
down 3⁄4" from the top of the cabinets and
mark a line on the lip. Use a fine-tooth
backsaw to carefully cut down to the side
of the cabinet. Use a chisel to remove the
upper part of the lip. Cut the longest piece
of crown molding first. Measure the cabinet
run from end to end. Using a compound
miter saw, cut each end at 221⁄2°. Install
the molding 3⁄4" down from the top of the
cabinets. Nail the molding in place with a
finish nailer (photo). Cut the end piece to fit
and nail in place.
■ How to Install a Glass Panel Door
1 2
Cut a recess for a glass panel in the frame. Use a router with Install the glass. Measure the cutout and order a piece
a straight bit to cut away the lip on the rails and stiles of the of tempered glass to fit. Consider the many types of glass,
door frame. Set the router to the depth of the lip. Clamp the including frosted and pebbled glass to coordinate with the
door to the work surface. Clamp guides to the work surface. rest of the kitchen. Use glass clips to install the glass panel.
Rout out the lip. Remove the panel. Square the corners of the Reattach the hardware and rehang the door.
cutout with a chisel.
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Slide-Out Storage
A base cabinet with slide-out trays or shelves is
one of those great modern conveniences that
has become standard in new kitchen and bathroom
made with ¾"-thick plywood parts joined with glue
and finish nails. if you prefer a more finished look
(not that there’s anything wrong with the look of nice
designs. not only do slide-out trays make reaching plywood), you can use 1 × 4 hardwood stock for the
stored items easier than with standard cabinet tray sides and set a 3⁄8"-thick plywood bottom panel
spaces—no more crouching and diving into the deep into dadoes milled into the side pieces. Another option
recesses of cavernous low shelves—they also store is to assemble plywood tray pieces using pocket screws
more items far more efficiently. With a few shallow so that the screw heads don’t show on the front pieces
trays, a standard base cabinet can hold dozens of food of the trays.
cans or bottles of makeup, and still leave room for tall
items such as cereal boxes, cleaning supplies, bags of
flour, or even pots and countertop appliances.
To get the most from your new slide-out system, Tools & Materials ▸
think carefully about how you will use each tray.
Measure the items you’re most likely to store together, circular saw with ¾" finish-grade
and let the items dictate the spacing of the trays. Most straightedge guide or plywood
standard base cabinets are suitable for trays. Wide table saw Wood glue
cabinets (24" or wider) without a center partition power drill 6d finish nails
(middle stile) are best in terms of space usage, but Wood screws Finish materials
trays in narrow (18"-wide) cabinets are just as handy. drawer slides (1 set per Tape measure
if you have a wide cabinet with a middle stile, you tray) Varnish or
can add trays along one or both sides of the stile. For 1 × 2 hardwood stock polyurethane
economy and simplicity, the trays in this project are
Slide-out trays eliminate
the everyday problem of
hard-to-reach and hard-
to-see spaces in standard
base cabinets. Better still,
you can install your trays to
accommodate the stuff you
use most often.
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■ Drawer Slides
Drawer slides suitable for pull-out shelves are
commonly available in both standard (left) and full
extension (right) styles. Standard slides are less
expensive and good enough for most applications.
They allow the tray to be pulled out most of the
way. Full extension slides are a little pricier than
standard slides, but they allow the tray to be pulled
completely out of the cabinet box for easy access
to items in the back.
Spacer strip
Glide-out rail
Spacers must be mounted to the wall cabinets before you can install drawer slides for your slide-out shelves. They are necessary
for the drawers to clear the cabinet face frame and the door (these aren’t necessary for frameless cabinets). For a 3⁄4" spacer, a
1 × 3 or 1 × 4 works well. Paint or finish it to match the cabinet interior.
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■ How to Install Slide-Out Cabinet Trays
Lay out the tray positions, starting with
1 the bottom tray. Check the drawer slides to
see how much clearance you need for the
bottom tray. Draw lines on the side panels
of the cabinet to represent the bottom
edges of the slide supports. Make sure the
lines are level and are perpendicular to
the cabinet front. Cut the slide supports to
length from 1 × 2 hardwood stock (or any
hardwood ripped to 11⁄2" wide).
Mount the supports to the side panels
2 of the cabinet with glue and screws driven
through countersunk pilot holes. Note:
Depending on the overhang of the cabinet
face frames, you may need thicker support
stock to provide sufficient clearance for the
trays and slide rails.
Install the drawer slides flush with the
3 bottom edges of the slide supports using the
provided screws. Assemble the two halves
of each slide, and then measure between
the drawer side pieces (rails) to find the
exact width of each tray. Plan the depth of
the trays based on the cabinet depth.
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Cut the bottom piece for each tray from
3⁄4" plywood 11⁄2" smaller than the planned
width and depth of the finished tray. Rip
4
three 3⁄4”-wide pieces for the sides, front,
and back of each tray. Cut the side pieces to
length, equal to the depth dimension of the
bottom piece. Cut the front and back pieces
11⁄2" longer than the width of the bottom.
Build the trays with glue and 6d finish
nails or pneumatic brads. Fasten the sides
flush with the bottom face and front and
5
back edges of the bottom piece, and then
add the front and back pieces. Sand any
rough surfaces, and finish the trays with
two or three coats of polyurethane or other
durable varnish. If desired, you can stain the
trays prior to finishing so they match your
cabinets.
Partially mount the drawer slide
rails to one of the trays, following the
manufacturer’s directions. Test-fit the tray
6
in the cabinet and make any necessary
adjustments before completely fastening the
rails. Mount the slide rails on the remaining
trays and install the trays to finish the job.
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Custom Cabinetry
T here are two types of custom cabinets: the high-
end cabinetry you can order from manufacturers
to meet your exact specifications and desired look,
Tools & Materials ▸
and the type you build yourself, from scratch. electronic stud pocket screw jig
either type will involve significant expense— finder Wood glue
high-end materials are never cheap. Order from a cordless screwdriver Biscuits, splines, or
manufacturer and you save yourself a lot of work, hammer dowels
not to mention that a manufacturer may be able Tape measure Finish nails (1", 2", 3",
to supply a finished product that you can’t make utility knife 4")
yourself. if you build your own custom cabinets, on router with bits Shims
the other hand, you’ll most likely have the cabinets in (¾" straight, 1/4" pin-style shelf supports
place more quickly, and you’ll be able to make small rabbet) ¾" plywood
changes and adjustments on the fly—changes that drill and bits 1 × 3, 1 × 6, 2 × 4
might have been costly and time-consuming if you right-angle drill lumber
were ordering through a manufacturer. guide 1 × 3 maple or other
You can use the methods outlined in the projects pegboard scraps hardwood
that follow to build the cabinets you envision. unless pipe clamps Finishing materials
you’re an accomplished woodworker, it’s always wise to level drawer and door
start out on a simpler project, such as a wall-mounted Sander hardware
or base cabinet that doesn’t involve installation in a circular saw Trim or base shoe
corner or contain any special fittings or other difficult- power-driver screws molding
to-fabricate details. Once you get comfortable with (¾", 2 1/2", 3 1/2") Wood putty
the cabinet fabrication process, you can move on
Cutting Sheet Goods ▸
You’ll find no better combination for cutting full-sheet
panels than a full-sized table saw and a helper, with the
possible exception of a panel saw. But if you are working
alone, it is still possible to cut full panels down to size
accurately and safely using a circular saw. The main
difficulty beginners encounter when cutting panels with
a circular saw is that they do not adequately support the
waste, so that it falls away prematurely and ruins the
cut (or causes an accident). Another common mistake
is to support both ends so that the area being cut binds
on the saw blade as the cut is made. The solution is
simply to support the entire panel along both edges with
sacrificial scraps of 2 × 4. Set your saw blade to cut just
slightly deeper than the thickness of the panel. The blade
will score the 2 × 4s as it cuts, but they will continue to
support the work piece all the way through the cut. Be
sure to use a straightedge guide for your saw, and always
cut with the good face down when using a circular saw.
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to one-of-a-kind entry hall cabinets; a new, highly feet. These draw the eye, so if you plan to add them to
detailed bathroom vanity; or even a suite of cabinets your cabinets, be absolutely certain you can execute
to transform the look and function of your kitchen. them. if you have doubts, you may want to outsource
custom-building your own cabinets is not only a way those features.
to completely control the process, it’s also your chance When going to the time, effort, and expense of
to put a signature look on your cabinetry. building custom cabinets, don’t skimp on hardware.
in any case, the first thing to realize is that the it’s amazing how much low-quality cabinet “jewelry”
cabinets themselves are essentially boxes. They should can detract from high-quality construction on custom
be constructed square, but with a little attention to cabinetry. This is true for the hidden hardware as well.
the measurements, fabricating cabinet cases shouldn’t You’re likely to be less satisfied with beautiful drawer
try your patience or your skills. fronts if the drawer sticks every time you pull it out
Focus most of your attention on the cabinet door simply because you skimped on the drawer slides.
fronts and drawers—the most highly visible parts Finally, make sure you put a lot of attention and
of the design. get these right, and the end result is time into the finish of your custom cabinets. This is
sure to be pleasing to the eye. if you want to take the the detail that most often separates manufacturer’s
design one step further, you can consider adding some products from home-fabricated units.
special features such as valances, columns, or faux
You can make your own features, or custom order cabinets with special touches, like the millworked columns, special-order glass
inserts, and cabinets with integrated shelving that define the look of this stunning kitchen.
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Exploded View of Hanging wall Cabinet
C
B
D A
E
E
F
E
A G
E
D
E
Exploded view of
hanging wall cabinet
Parts list: wall Cabinet
PrOjECT AS SHOwn
KEy PArT MATErIAl PIECES SIzE
A Side panels 3
⁄4" maple plywood 2 111⁄4" × 30"
B Back panel 1
⁄4" maple plywood 1 30" × 351⁄4"
C Nailing strip 1 × 3 maple 1 341⁄4"
D Top, bottom panels 3
⁄4" maple plywood 2 351⁄4 × 111⁄4"
E Face frame 1 × 3 maple 12 linear ft
F Shelves 3
⁄4" maple plywood 2 93⁄4 × 341⁄4"
G Glass panel or overlay doors
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Exploded View of Base Cabinet
E
I
A D B
D F
Detail
1 F F F F
F
B H
F F
C
E
Trim
G
D
B F
F
Parts list: Base Cabinet
PrOjECT AS SHOwn
KEy PArT MATErIAl PIECES SIzE
A Back panel 1
⁄2" maple plywood 1 341⁄2 × 351⁄4"
B Side panels 3
⁄4" maple plywood 2 341⁄2 × 171⁄4"
C Bottom panel 3
⁄4" maple plywood 1 163⁄4 × 351⁄4"
D Supports 1 × 3 maple 2 341⁄2"
E Countertop 3
⁄4" plywood 2 361⁄4 × 18"
F Face frame 1 × 3 maple 15 linear ft.
G Bottom rail 1 × 6 maple 1 311⁄4"
H Overlay drawers
I Trim molding 12 linear ft.
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■ Wall Cabinet Project Details
Side panels are made from 3⁄4" plywood and have 3⁄4"-wide, A back panel made from 1⁄4" plywood has a 1 × 3 nailing strip
3
⁄8"-deep dadoes where bottom and top panels fit, and mounted 11⁄2" below the top edge of the back panel and set in
1⁄4"-wide rabbets where the back panel fits. Rows of parallel 3
⁄8" on each side. It is fastened with glue and 3⁄4" screws driven
peg holes, 11⁄2" in from edges, hold pin-style shelf supports. through the back panel.
■ How to Build & Install a Wall Cabinet
1 2
Measure and cut 3⁄4" plywood side panels, then cut rabbets Drill two parallel rows of 1⁄4"-diameter holes for pin-style
and dadoes using a router and a straightedge guide, following shelf supports on the inside face of each side panel. Use a
the dimensions in the project details (see page 60 and 61). right-angle drill guide and a scrap of pegboard as a template to
ensure that holes line up correctly. Holes should be no deeper
than 3⁄8"—most right-angle drill guides include a depth stop.
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3 4
Measure and cut 3⁄4" plywood top and bottom panels, then Attach the back panel (see pages 60 and 61) using glue and
glue and clamp the side panels to the top and bottom panels 3⁄4" screws. Set the back panel into the rabbets at the back
to form the dado joints. Reinforce the joints with 2" finish nails edges of the cabinet. Secure the back with 11⁄2" finish nails
driven every 3". driven into the cabinet edges.
5 6
Attach a 1 × 3 nailing strip on the inside of the cabinet, about Measure the height and width of the cabinet interior and
11⁄2" down from the top. Drive three 3⁄4" wood screws through then cut 1 × 3 face-frame rails that are 4 3⁄4" shorter than the
the back panel and into the nailing strip, and then drive a pair cabinet width. Cut face-frame stiles 4” longer than the height.
of 2" finish nails through the side panel and into the ends of Glue, square, and then clamp the rails between the stiles. You
the nailing strip. could use biscuits, splines, or dowels to reinforce the joints
(these need to be installed before clamping). Here, pocket
screws are being driven at the joints of the face frame using a
pocket screw jig.
(continued)
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7 8
Center the face frame on the cabinet so the slight overhang Use tinted wood putty that matches the color of the stained
on each side is equal, and the top edge of the bottom rail is wood to fill nail holes. Sand all wood surfaces, and then
flush with the bottom shelf surface. Attach the face frame with apply wood stain (if desired) and two or three thin coats of
glue and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes. polyurethane or other topcoat material.
9 10
Mark a level reference line on the wall where the bottom Screw a temporary ledger strip to the wall studs so that the
edge of the cabinet will be located—54" above the floor is a top edge is flush with the reference line.
standard height. Locate the wall studs and mark their locations
beneath the reference line.
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11 12
Install the cabinet by setting it onto the temporary ledger, Use a level to make sure the cabinet is plumb. If not, loosen
and then brace it in position with a 2 × 4 wedged between the the screws slightly and insert shims behind the cabinet to
cabinet and the floor below (or the base cabinet, if present). adjust it to plumb. Tighten the screws completely, score the
Drill countersunk pilot holes in the nailing strip at the top of the shims with a utility knife, and break off any excess.
cabinet, and drive 3" screws into the wall studs.
13 14
Build or buy cabinet doors. A simple overlay door can be Build and install shelves. Here, shelves are made from
made from 1⁄2" plywood that matches the cabinet and door- 3⁄4"-thick plywood with a 1⁄4 × 3⁄4" hardwood strip nosing on the
edge molding that is mitered at the corners to frame the front edge. Set the finished shelves on shelf pins inserted in
plywood panel. Hang the cabinet doors with hinges. the pinholes drilled in the cabinet side.
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■ Base Cabinet Project Details
5 3⁄4" 16 1⁄2"
rabbet
14 3⁄8"
Dado 10" 34 1⁄2"
31 1⁄4"
Side panels made from 3⁄4" plywood have 3⁄4"-wide, 3⁄8"-deep The face frame includes 1 × 6 bottom rails and 1 × 3s for
dadoes to hold the bottom panel, and 1⁄2"-wide, 3⁄8"-deep the stiles and other rails. Cut and assemble the face frame,
rabbets where the back panel will fit. The bottom dado is following the dimensions shown in the photo above. Use
raised so the bottom drawer will be at a comfortable height. biscuits, splines, or dowels to reinforce the joints. Alternately,
drive pocket screws after the parts are glued and clamped.
■ How to Build & Install a Base Cabinet
1 2
Cut the side and bottom panels from 3⁄4" plywood (cabinet- Install two 1 × 3 spreaders between the side panels at the
grade maple is used here), and cut the 1⁄2" plywood back panel. top of the cabinet. Clamp the spreaders in position and
Use a router and piloted rabbet bit to create 3⁄8 × 1⁄2" rabbets in attach them with glue and 2" finish nails driven through the
the side panels for the back panel. Cut dadoes for the bottom side panels.
panel into the side panels using a router, straight bit, and
straightedge guide. Install the bottom panel between the side
panels. Glue, clamp, and then drive finish nails through the side
panels and into the ends of the bottom panel.
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3 4
Build the face frame from 1 × 3 maple (actual sizes 3⁄4 × 21⁄2" Attach the face frame to the cabinet with glue and 2" finish
and 3⁄4 × 51⁄4"). The glued joints can be reinforced with biscuits, nails driven through pilot holes. The face-frame should be flush
splines, or dowels prior to assembly, or they can be glued, with the cabinet tops, slightly above the cabinet bottoms, and
clamped, and reinforced with pocket screws, as seen here. overhanging the sides equally by a small amount. Sand and
finish the cabinet as desired.
5 6
Install the cabinet. Mark the locations of the wall studs in Anchor the cabinet by driving 31⁄2" screws through the back
the project area, and then set the cabinet in place. Check with panel and into wall studs just below the top of the cabinet.
a level and shim under the cabinet, if necessary, to level it.
Toenail the side panels to the floor at shim locations using 2"
finish nails. Score the shims, and break off any excess. (continued)
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7 8
Build or purchase drawers. Simple overlay drawers are easy Install drawer slide hardware on the drawer. Slides may be
to make from 1⁄2" plywood and a false front made of hardwood. center-mounted, as seen here, or side-mounted in pairs. Typically,
Refer to the information on page 69 for construction details side-mounted slides are rated for higher weight capacity.
and guidance on sizing drawers.
9 10
Mount drawer slide hardware in the cabinet interior Add the countertop of your choice. See pages 162 to 167
according to the manufacturer's instructions. Install the for information on choosing a countertop type and building it
drawers and test the fit. Add drawer pull hardware. yourself. If you are building just a single base cabinet, consider
a higher end material such as granite. The small scale will let
you introduce an expensive material without spending
a fortune.
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Project Highlight: Building Basic Overlay Drawers ▸
Back panel: 1⁄ 2"
finish-grade
plywood
1
⁄ 4" dadoes
side panels: 1⁄ 2"
finish-grade plywood
Bottom panels: 1⁄ 4"
finish-grade plywood
Face: 3⁄ 4" hardwood
Front panel:
1
⁄ 2" finish-grade
plywood
Anatomy of an overlay drawer: The basic drawer box is made using 1/2" plywood for the front, back, and side panels,
with a 1/4" plywood bottom panel. The bottom panel fits into 1/4" dadoes cut near the bottom of the front and side panels,
and is nailed to the bottom edge of the back panel. The hardwood drawer face is screwed to drawer front from the inside,
and it is sized to overhang the face frame by 1/2" on all sides. Note: This drawer is designed to be mounted with a center-
mount drawer slide attached to the bottom of the drawer. If you use different hardware, like side-mounted drawer slides,
you will need to alter this design according to the slide manufacturer’s directions.
Part MeasureMent
Sides Length Depth of opening, minus 3"
Sides Height Height of opening, minus 3"
Front Length Width of opening, minus 11⁄2"
Depth
Front Height Height of opening, minus 1⁄2"
Back Length Width of opening, minus 11⁄2"
Back Height Height of opening, minus 1"
Bottom Width Width of opening, minus 1"
Width Bottom Depth Depth of opening, minus 23⁄4"
Height
Face Length Width of opening, plus 1"
Face Height Height of opening, plus 1"
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Advanced Cabinet Projects
B uilding custom cabinets from scratch may seem daunting, but the construction process is actually simpler
than you might think. You’ll need some proficiency with a table saw and router, but the rest of the process
is mostly gluing, clamping, and fastening the pieces together—all very manageable and straightforward skills
for a proficient do-it-yourselfer. On the following pages, we provide the measured drawings and material lists
to build an upper and base cabinet in the style shown for this contemporary kitchen. The design is clean and
utilitarian but still very inviting, borrowing from both Shaker and Arts & crafts influences. Best of all, these
cabinets resonate quality and custom construction but are still quite easy to make. There’s no panel-raising or
cope-and-stick joinery to tackle when building the doors, and you won’t even need to install crown moldings with
complicated compound cuts to finish them off at the ceiling. Moldings are kept to a minimum here.
The upper cabinet doors feature a divided “field area,” where you have the option to fill the frame with a
plywood panel, glass panes, or a combination of both, depending on your preference. These doors overlay a face
frame on the cabinet carcasses—a common style these days—and they are hung on adjustable, euro-style cup
hinges. The base cabinet doors use the same construction process as the upper cabinets, but they’re even easier
to make with a single plywood panel inside a four-piece frame. drawer faces overlay the base cabinet face frames
for easier installation, and they’ll hide any minor irregularities that might occur when hanging the drawer boxes.
Obviously, these two plans will not cover the gamut of cabinet sizes your kitchen is likely to require, but they
do provide a good starting point. And, you can use the same construction procedure to make cabinets and doors
of different sizes by revising the material lists. plan your kitchen cabinet project carefully. it’s best to build each
cabinet as a separate component, but always think in terms of uniformity when sizing the parts: your cabinets
need to come together into a unified whole that looks intentional, while providing functional storage space for a
home’s busiest room. Also, be sure to follow the general guidelines provided on pages 30–31 to 88 for determining
the heights and depths of cabinet carcasses and drawers. This will help you get the most from your building
materials while meeting industry standards for accessibility and counter workspace.
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■ Advanced Upper Cabinets
Building an upper cabinet will set a benchmark for
how to build the rest of the cabinets in your kitchen, Tools & Materials ▸
home office, workshop, or wherever you need them.
The cabinet carcass, made of veneered plywood circular saw chisels
here, is typically joined at the four corners by rabbets Table saw ear and eye
reinforced with glue and screws. A wooden face frame Jointer/planer protection
covers the front of the carcass to hide the plywood router table (1) ¾" × 4 × 8 ft.
edges and give the cabinet a finished look. door- drill/driver maple plywood
building happens next, followed by shelf construction drill press (1) 1/4" × 4 × 4 ft.
so you can size the shelves to suit the "box" you've Brad nailer or crown maple plywood
made. We'll step out the procedure here, building a stapler ¾" maple lumber
double-door example measuring 34 inches wide and combination square Wood glue
30 inches tall — common proportions for a larger pocket hole jig #8 × 11/2" flathead
upper cabinet. Shelf pin jig wood screws
dado blade 11/4" pocket screws
35mm Forstner bit (4) half overlay
countersink bit euro-style hinges
piloted rabbeting bit 1
/8" tempered glass
clamps Shelf pins
If you have the proper woodworking and fabrication skills (and the time, tools, and energy), handsome, neat, and trim wall-
mounted cabinets such as these may well be within your reach at a fraction of the cost of purchased custom cabinetry.
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Cutting list
B
D H
G
I
n j
O
E
Q A S
M l M
r
A
Q
I P
r
D
C
K
G
S
F
F
I
H
KEy nO. DESCrIPTIOn DIMEnSIOnS MATErIAl KEy nO. DESCrIPTIOn DIMEnSIOnS MATErIAl
A 2 Sides 3/4 x 111/4 x 30" Plywood K 2 Door Panels 1/4 x 123/4 x 161/4" Plywood
B 1 Top 3/4 x 103/4 x 33" Plywood L 2 Glass, Large 1/
8 x 43/4 x 83/4" Tempered
C 1 Bottom 3/4 x 111/4 x 33" Plywood M 4 Glass, Small 1/
8 x 31/2 x 83/4" Tempered
D 2 Back Rails 3/4 x 4 x 32" Plywood N 8 Glass Retainer, Short 3/
8 x 3/8 x 31/2" Maple
E 1 Back 1/4 x 33 x 293/4" Plywood O 4 Glass Retainer, Med. 3/
8 x 3/8 x 43/4" Maple
F 2 Face-Frame Stiles 3/4 x 11/2 x 311/2" Maple P 12 Glass Retainer, Long 3/
8 x 3/8 x 8” Maple
G 2 Face-Frame Rails 3/4 x 11/2 x 31" Maple Q 2 Shelves 3/4 x 93/4 x 313/4" Plywood
H 4 Door Frame Stiles 3/4 x 2 x 291/2" Maple R 2 Shelf Edging 3/4 x 3/4 x 313/4” Maple
I 6 Door Frame Rails 3/4 x 2 x 123/4" Maple S 4 Hinges Euro-style,
Half Overlay
J 4 Glass Muntins 3/4 x 11/4 x 83/4" Maple
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■ How to Build an Advanced Upper Cabinet
1 2
Follow your material list to carefully lay out as many of the Mill rabbets into the edges of the side panels to house
cabinet carcass parts as possible on each sheet of plywood. the upper cabinet's top, bottom, and back panels. You can
Arrange the parts so you can cut the sheets down to size with use a stacked dado blade set in the table saw to make these
full-length or full-width cuts first. Then, use a fine-tooth blade cuts, or a large straight bit in the router table as shown here.
on a circular saw to minimize splintering, and use a clamped Attach featherboards to the router table fence to help press
straightedge to guide your cuts. When possible, cut the parts workpieces down flat against the table during routing.
slightly oversized, then reduce them to final dimensions on the
table saw.
3 4
Lay out and drill two rows of shelf pin holes into each of the While the side panels are still fully accessible, drill pocket
cabinet side panels. A shelf-pin drilling template, as shown hole recesses for attaching the cabinet's face frame. A pocket
here, can speed this process along and ensure consistent hole jig sets the steep drilling angle, and guides a stepped drill
spacing. It comes with a spring-loaded drilling guide that bit in boring these holes. You can attach the face frame with
centers the bit within the template openings. glue or brad nails instead.
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5 6
Sand the cabinet panels starting with 120-grit sandpaper Assemble the cabinet parts without glue to make sure the
and working down to 180 grit sandpaper, using a random orbit joints fit together correctly. Disassemble and spread glue along
sander. It’s much easier to do this now than when the cabinet the ends of the top, bottom, and side panels. Use bar or pipe
is assembled. clamps to hold the parts in place while the glue cures. Measure
the diagonals and adjust the clamps if the measurements are
not equal.
7 8
Drill countersunk pilot holes for the screws to keep the The upper cabinet's back rails help to square the carcass
plywood from splitting and to recess the screw heads. For and provide attachment points for screws when hanging the
added strength, reinforce the corner rabbet joints by driving cabinet on the wall. Cut these two rails to shape, and clamp
three or four #8 x 1 1⁄2" flathead wood screws through the side them to the top and bottom panels. Align the rails flush with
panels and into the top and bottom panels. the bottoms of the back panel rabbets. Drive countersunk
screws through the side panels to secure the rails.
(continued)
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9 10
Prepare the face-frame rails and stiles from solid wood. Lay out centered screw locations on the ends of the rails
If you start with flat, square stock, you can rip and crosscut only. Clamp the face-frame rails vertically in the jig and bore
these parts at your table saw. But a jointer and planer provides the screw holes. A single 1 1⁄4" pocket screw will be sufficient
the advantage of removing minor warping or twisting before for each joint.
and after rough-cutting the parts
to shape.
11 12
Clamp the rails and stiles together on your worksurface, Cut the cabinet's back panel to size from 1⁄4" plywood, and
one joint at a time, before driving the attachment screws. A sand it with 180 grit. Apply two coats of a varnish or other
specialized "quick clamp" for pocket screws can make this wood finish to the inside surfaces of the cabinet carcass and
process easier. It's unnecessary to drill a pilot hole in the stiles; the back panel. It's also a good idea to finish the outer surfaces
the screws have self-piloting auger tips. to stabilize the plywood from moisture, even though most of
these areas won't be visible after installation.
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13 14
Fasten the back panel into its rabbets. You can use a While the face frame could be installed with pocket screws
pneumatic crown stapler (as shown here), brad nails, or short alone, glue will reinforce these joints and keep the top and
screws to attach the back. Drive fasteners every 6 to 8" around bottom panels aligned. Spread glue along the front edges of
the panel's perimeter to hold it securely. the cabinet carcass, and clamp the face frame in place. It will
overhang the cabinet sides by 1⁄4” and the bottom by 3⁄4". Drive
a 1 1⁄4" pocket screw into each hole.
■ Building Advanced Cabinet Doors
1 2
Use a jointer to remove minor distortions from door frame Rip and crosscut the door frame rails, stiles, and glass
stock, and to help the doors stay flat once they're built and muntins to size. The drawer joinery begins with 1⁄4"-wide,
installed. If you don't have access to a jointer, buy the flattest 3
/8"-deep grooves cut into one edge of the rails and stiles and
boards you can find for your door frames. into both edges of the intermediate door rail and the glass
muntins. All the grooves can be milled at the table saw in two
passes with a standard blade. Cut one half of the groove in one
pass, then flip the piece end for end and cut the second half of
the groove in a second pass. (continued)
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3 4
Cut centered tongues in the door rails and muntins by Assemble the rails, stiles, and glass muntins without glue to
holding the workpieces vertically in a tenoning jig on the table check the fit of the tongue-and-groove joints. You may need
saw, as shown. Use a dado blade. You can make the cuts with to use a small hand plane or a file to pare down the tongues so
the same procedure, using a tenoning jig on the router table that they fit better. The joints should slip together without force
fitted with a straight bit. but not be overly loose.
5 6
Cut plywood door panels to fit the two large openings in the Glass panels will be fitted to the upper door frame openings
door frames; use the "dry-assembled" frames to determine by first removing the back wall of the grooved areas. Install a
the final proportions of these panels. Sand all of the door parts rabbeting bit in your router table, with a bearing on the bit that
with 180 grit sandpaper, and mark the glass muntin locations limits its cutting width to 3/8". Raise the bit until the cutters will
on the top and intermediate rails with pencil lines. Spread glue remove the entire back wall of material and the bearing will
on the frame joints and assemble the doors with the plywood ride along the groove's front wall.
panels in place. Clamp the doors until the glue cures.
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7 8
Rout the channel for the glass by feeding the door clockwise Mark the inside corners for squaring with a pencil and
around the bit with the bearing riding along the inside edge of square. Use a chisel and mallet to square the corners and
the glass openings. Press the doors down firmly against the create perfectly square, clean openings for the glass.
router table as you proceed, and keep your hands well clear of
the bit at all times.
9 10
Measure the openings and have panes cut about 1/16" Mark the location for the Euro-style cup hinges mounting
small all around. Prepare long and short glass retaining strips holes in the doors, using the instructions that come with the
from the same wood you used to make the frames. Install hinges. Use a drill press with a 35mm Forstner bit. The doors
each pane with four retainer strips. Secure the glass with 1/3" should be clamped to the table and held firm against the fence.
18-gauge brads or 23-gauge pin nails, driving them horizontally
through the retaining strips and into the frame.
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11 12 13
Mark a line perpendicular to the layout Measure the hinge locations on the Attach the door hinges to the cabinet
line through the center of the cup hinge door frames, and transfer centered carcass, and test their action. Adjust
hole. Insert the hinges and align them layout lines to the inside edges of the the doors to hang evenly, relative to one
with the lines. Use the screw opening face frames to locate the cabinet-side another, and squarely over the
on the hinges as references for drilling hinge leaves. A commercially made jig, face frame.
centered pilot holes for the mounting like the one shown here, makes it easy
screws. (A self-centering vix bit makes to locate the precise centerpoints for
this easy.) Fasten the hinges to the door. hinge leaf screws. Drill a pilot hole for
each hinge screw with a self-centering
Vix bit.
14 15
Cut the shelves for the cabinet. Cut 3⁄4 x 3⁄4" edging strips, a When the glue cures, trim off the overhang with a piloted
few inches longer than necessary. Mark the edging 1/16" wider flush-trim bit. Set the bit depth so the bearing will ride along
than the shelf, so it will overhang the top and bottom. Spread clean plywood. It may help to clamp both shelves together, as
glue on the contact surfaces and use long pieces of painter’s shown here, to provide a more stable surface for the router
tape to hold the edging in place. base. Trim the ends of the edging flush with the shelves to
complete them.
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■ Advanced Base Cabinets
in simplest terms, a base cabinet is really just a deeper
and shorter version of an upper cabinet. When you Tools & Materials ▸
build it, you'll follow almost the same construction
process. in the following project, we'll make a circular saw ear and eye
standard 30"-wide base cabinet with a single drawer Table saw protection
and double doors beneath. The overall height of this Jointer/planer Maple plywood
cabinet is 29¾" because it's intended to be set on router table ¾" × 4 × 8 ft. (1)
a separate 4¾"-tall toe-kick plinth to raise it to the drill/driver Maple plywood
standard 341/2" base cabinet height. (For more on this drill press 1/4" × 4 × 4 ft. (1)
toe-kick style, see pages 44–46.) You'll notice that in Brad nailer or crown Maple lumber ¾"
the first photo of this series, the base cabinet carcass stapler Wood glue
is already mostly assembled. Just follow the steps combination square Flathead wood
for building the upper cabinet, found on pages 72 to pocket hole jig screws
80, and use the Base cabinet Material list provided Shelf pin jig #8 × 11/2"
here. Aside from differences in part sizing, the only dovetail jig and bit pocket screws 11/4"
significant departure for building the carcass is that dado blade half overlay euro-
the top consists of two rails for attaching a countertop 35mm Forstner bit style hinges (4)
instead of a solid top panel. Build and hang the countersink bit Full-extension
paneled doors, and make the shelves just as you would clamps drawer slides 20"
for the upper cabinet. What makes the base cabinet Shelf pins
unique from the upper cabinet is drawer construction,
and that's what we'll focus on here.
Take the time to ensure your base cabinets are perfectly level and you’ll wind up with a simple and pleasing look like this.
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Cutting List
3
C Quayside B&D Base Cabinet
Exploded View
1
13
4
m 14
3 N
13 D
7
i
m G 10 9
14
5 J
e
7 11 8
1 9 H
N K
s i L 12
6
a
a
6 19
t
20 p
B r
2 16
p
G F o
15
F o
7o Q 15
Q
17
18 o
r
p
p
16
Key No. DesCriptioN DimeNsioNs materiaL Key No. DesCriptioN DimeNsioNs materiaL
A 2 Sides 3/4 x 221/2 x 293/4" Plywood K 1 Drawer Bottom 1/4 x 195/8 x 257/16" Plywood
B 1 Bottom 3/4 x 22 x 29" Plywood L 1 Drawer Face 3/4 x 6 x 28" Maple
C 2 Top Rails 3/4 x 6 x 28" Plywood M 2 Drawer Slide Spacers 1/2 x 3 x 20" Maple
D 1 Back Rail 3/4 x 4 x 28" Plywood N 2 Drawer Slides 20” Full Extension
E 1 Back 1/4 x 29 x 293/4" Plywood O 4 Door Stiles 3/4 x 2 x 22" Maple
F 2 Face-Frame Stiles 3/4 x 11/2 x 301/2" Maple P 4 Door Rails 3/4 x 2 x 103/4" Maple
G 3 Face-Frame Rails 3/4 x 11/2 x 27" Maple Q 2 Door Panels 1/4 x 1011/16 x 1811/16" Plywood
H 1 Drawer Front 1/2 x 41/2 x 26" Maple R 4 Hinges Euro-style, Half Overlay
I 2 Drawer Sides 1/2 x 41/2 x 20" Maple S 1 Shelf 3/4 x 21 x 273/4" Plywood
J 1 Drawer Back 1/2 x 3 7/8 x 251/2" Maple T 1 Shelf Edging 3/4 x 3/4 x 273/4" Maple
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■ How to Build an Advanced Base Cabinet
1 2
Attach the sides, bottom panel, and top and back rails Attach a pair of 1⁄2"-thick wood spacers to the cabinet walls
with glue and countersunk screws to form the base cabinet inside the drawer opening. Position these flush with the back
carcass. As with the upper cabinet, the bottom panel fits of the face frame and so the drawer slides will be centered
into a 3⁄4 x 3⁄4" rabbet in the side panels, and the back panel vertically on the drawer box. Then attach a drawer slide to
recesses into a 1⁄2 x 1⁄2" rabbet. Once the back is installed, each spacer with the short screws provided. The "cabinet
follow the drawings and Material List to build a face frame for side" slides should be flush with the front of the face frame
your base cabinet, and attach it to the front of the carcass with when retracted.
glue and pocket screws.
3 4
Clip the drawer side pieces of the drawer slides in place, Cut the drawer front and sides to size. Here we're using
and pull them out a few inches. Carefully measure the distance a dovetail jig and plunge router to create half-blind dovetail
between them to determine the final length of the drawer front; joints. It's a classic and sturdy option for custom cabinet
depending on how accurately you've built the cabinet carcass, drawers. If you don't have a dovetail jig, you can assemble
this distance may not match the drawer front dimension your drawer with rabbets, rabbet-and-dado joints, box joints,
specified in the Material List. Regardless, the drawer needs to or even simple butt joints reinforced with glue and brad nails.
fit this space as accurately as possible for smooth action.
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5 6
The drawer's ¼"-thick bottom panel fits into 1⁄4"-deep The drawer back fits between the drawer sides in 1⁄4"-deep
grooves in the drawer front and sides. Position these grooves dadoes. Mill them 1⁄2" wide with a stacked dado blade in your
on your corner joints so that they will be hidden when the table saw. Back the drawer sides up against a miter gauge
drawer box is assembled (see inset photo). Here, we're locating to make these cuts safely and accurately. If you don't have a
them 1⁄2" up from the bottom edges of the box parts. You can dado set, you can use a 1⁄2"-wide straight bit in a router table
cut the grooves with a standard blade in two side-by-side using the same technique.
passes, or with a 1⁄4"-wide dado blade.
7 8 9
Assemble the front, sides, and back Sand the drawer box. Mark center Cut the drawer face to size, and hang
panel with glue and clamps to form the lines along the length of the drawer the drawer box in the cabinet. Pull it
drawer box; be sure the bottom edge sides to position the drawer side slide out a few inches and install two small
of the drawer back is flush with the top components. The instructions that come clamps to keep it from closing. Use
edge of the drawer bottom grooves. with the slides will suggest driving just a short strips of double-sided carpet tape,
When the glue cures, slide the drawer few screws at first into the slotted holes applied to the drawer box front, to hold
bottom into place, and fasten it to the so you can make minor adjustments the drawer face in place. Position it for
drawer back with crown staples, brad with the drawer hanging in the cabinet. an even overhang all around the drawer
nails, or short screws. opening.
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10 11
Clamp the drawer face and front together to keep Locate the center of the drawer face and clamp the handle
these workpieces from shifting, and pull the drawer out of drilling jig in place. Use a center punch or a scratch awl to poke
the cabinet. Drive several 1" countersunk screws through points for the drawer pulls through the jig’s holes. Drill the
the drawer front and into the drawer face to secure them holes for the hardware through the drawer face and front.
permanently. Re-hang the drawer.
12 13
Attach the drawer pull by driving the screws that come with Test the action of the drawer in its opening. If you are
it through the drawer front and face. Note: you may need to satisfied with the locations of the slides and the drawer sits
purchase longer screws than come with the hardware. Or, as evenly, drive more screws through the round holes in the
another option, you could drill deep counterbores through the slides to fix them permanently in place.
drawer front to make use of the shorter screws.
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Building Drawers
D rawers, and especially hand-built drawers, used
to be limited mostly to storing small items. but
the development of very reliable and smooth-operating
ensure a perfect final appearance. make drawer
fronts that match the rest of the cabinet. solid-wood
slab construction is a common type of drawer front
drawer slide hardware has made it possible for diYers because many drawers are too narrow for frame-
to build larger, custom drawers that function just as and-panel construction. to build a frame-and-panel
well as smaller drawers. For example, you can now drawer front, the drawer box should be at least 7
choose to install a set of large drawers instead of inches tall.
doors in a base cabinet, eliminating the need to stoop solid wood is most often used for drawer faces
and reach deep into the back of a base cabinet. this because the edge grain is exposed around the edge
convenience has made it possible for an increasing of the face. You can use plywood to make a drawer
number of homeowners to opt for drawers instead of face, but you must attach solid or veneer edge
doors when designing built-ins. banding if you want to cover the exposed plywood
modern mechanical drawer slides place less stress edges. plywood is a good material for building the
on drawer joints. as a result, the joinery required to drawer boxes. it’s very stable, eliminating most of the
build a drawer is less critical. it is not difficult to build construction concerns about expanding or contracting
a functional and durable drawer box. wood parts. use ½"-thick baltic birch plywood for the
it’s most practical to build drawers that feature sides and ¼"-thick plywood for the bottom. substitute
a separate drawer box and drawer face because ½"-thick plywood for the bottom if the drawer is wider
the position of the drawer face can be adjusted to than 30" or if you have extra ½" plywood.
Building drawers from scratch is much easier to do if your shop is equipped with a set of good pipe clamps.
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■ Drawer Face Styles
Inset drawer faces fit fully inside the
face-frame or frameless cabinet opening
with the front surfaces flush. Inset drawer
faces are the trickiest type to install
because they must fit perfectly inside the
Inset face frame or the uneven gap (called the
reveal) around the face will show the error.
Lipped drawer faces have rabbets cut
along the back edges to create a recess
that fits over the face frame. The net effect
is that the front surface of the drawer front
will be 3⁄8" proud of the cabinet. Lipped
Lipped drawers are not traditionally attached to a
separate drawer box, but they can be.
Overlay drawer faces close against the
face frame. The front edges of the drawer
front normally are profiled. Overlay drawer
faces are the most common type used
today because they are the easiest to
Overlay make and install. Overlay faces are almost
always used on frameless cabinets.
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■ Determining Drawer Dimensions
You need to consider several factors when calculating frame cabinets, measure the distance between the
drawer box dimensions; the type of cabinet, the size of inside edges of the face-frame stiles. For frameless
the cabinet, the type of drawer face, and the type of cabinets, measure the distance between the inside
drawer slides you plan to install. faces of the cabinet sides. Your width measurement
the length of the drawer box is calculated as the must be precise because most drawer slides have very
distance from the front of the box to the back. drawer limited play for adjustment.
boxes for standard (24"-deep) cabinets are typically the depth or height of the drawer should leave
22" long. if the drawer face will be inset, then subtract at least ¼" clearance above and below the top and
¾" for the drawer face. if the drawer face is lipped, bottom edges of the drawer. For face-frame cabinets,
then subtract the amount of drawer face that will measure the distance between the rails above and
be recessed into the face frame. if the drawer face below the drawer opening. then subtract at least ½"
is overlay, then the drawer box will be flush with (¼ + ¼") for clearance above and below the drawer.
the front of the cabinet. You must also leave space For frameless cabinets you must lay out the number of
(typically 1") behind the drawer to ensure that it will drawers that will fill the cabinet and determine each
close without hitting the back of the cabinet. drawer depth, including a ¼" clearance above, below
the width of the drawer box is the distance from and between each drawer.
the left outside edge of the box to the right outside once you have calculated the overall dimensions
edge. measure the width of the drawer opening and you can cut the drawer parts to size. the dimensions
subtract the required drawer slide clearance (see the of each part will depend on the type of joinery you use
manufacturer’s installation instructions). most drawer to construct your drawers.
slides require ½" on each side of the box. For face
Although this drawer and front were supplied by a custom manufacturer (you’ll have a hard time replicating the interior
organizers), the idea is simple and the same if you’re building your own drawers: overlay drawers will be easier to create and look
better in the end.
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■ Face-Frame Cabinets
Cabinets with face frames. When
Side space
Face-frame rail depends determining the required size for custom-
on drawer built cabinet drawers, use the inside
slide
¼" mininum thickness dimension of the face-frame opening as
space above your guide. There should be a gap of at
and below Drawer box front
drawer box
least ¼" (and not much more) at the top
and bottom of the opening. The side-to-
side measurement of the drawer should
Drawer
slide leave a gap of about ½" to create space
for a side-mounted drawer slide. The
Front view illustration shown here is for the drawer
Face- box and should not affect false-front
frame stile
dimensions if your drawer will have one.
Minimum 1" clearance behind drawer box
Face-
frame Drawer box
rails
Drawer slide
Minimum ¼" clearance between drawer
box and the edges of the face-frame rails
Side view
■ Frameless Cabinets
Cabinets without face frames. The
Cabinet top
clearances required for a drawer box in
Drawer slide a frameless cabinet are pretty much the
same as they are for framed cabinets.
¼" minimum Drawer box front
space above, Laying out drawer slide locations can be
below, and a little trickier without face-frame rails
between to frame the top and bottom of each
drawers
opening. The best way to manage this is to
lay your cabinet sides next to each other
Drawer box front
with the tops and bottoms aligned, and
Cabinet side
Side space then gang-mark the locations for
equals the slides.
drawer slide
thickness.
Front view Typically ½"
Front of
drawer box
is flush
Drawer box ¼" minimum
with front
clearance
of cabinet
above, below,
sides Drawer slide and between
drawers
Drawer Drawer box
fronts 1” mininum
space behind
Drawer slide drawer
Drawer box
Side view
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■ Butt-Joint Drawer Box Construction
a very simple, but effective, way to build drawers is to test the fit of the bottom panel. the bottom
join the corners with butt joints and secure the bottom should fit snug in the groove and the tops should align.
in grooves that are cut into the sides. You can build if it doesn’t fit, then move the fence out slightly and
this type of drawer using a router table or table saw. make another pass to make the groove a little wider.
or you can use a circular saw and miter saw to cut the assemble the drawer box with glue and brad nails.
parts to size and a router to cut the grooves. apply a thin bead of glue to the inside of the grooves. Fit
First calculate the part dimensions (see the bottom panel into the grooves. then apply a bead
illustration, below). then cut the parts to size. next, of glue to the end edges and bottom edges of the front
cut the groove in the sides that will hold the bottom and back pieces. next, slide the front and back pieces
panel. use a dado blade set or make multiple passes between the sides and attach them (photo 3). carefully
with a regular table saw blade to cut the groove wide flip the drawer over. adjust the drawer to be square and
enough to fit the drawer bottom. attach the bottom to the front and back (photo 4).
Drawer BOx wITh BuTT jOInTS
Side length = overall
drawer box length
Front/back
length = overall
drawer width – 1"
½"-thick
plywood sides
¼"-thick plywood bottom
Front/back
height = overall Bottom length = overall
drawer height – ¾" drawer length
Side
height = overall
drawer height
Bottom width = overall
drawer width – ½"
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■ How to Construct a Butt-Joint Drawer Box
1 2
Cut the drawer parts to width on a table saw if you have one. Cut a slot near the bottom of each drawer box part to create
Otherwise, use a circular saw and a straightedge cutting guide. access for the drawer bottom, which usually is made from ¼"
Cut the parts to length with a power miter saw. or ½"-thick plywood. The slot should be slightly wider than the
thickness of the drawer bottom panel. You can cut it with a
router, or on a table saw using multiple cutting passes.
3 4
Attach front and back to sides with 18 ga. × 1¼" brad nails. Use a square or measure across the diagonals to determine
Hold the nail gun in line with the sides to reduce the chance of if the drawer sides are square to the front and back. Adjust the
the nails curving and popping through the front or back pieces. drawer to be square and attach the bottom to front and back
with 18 ga. × 1" brad nails.
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■ Rabbet-and-Dado Box Construction
the rabbet-and-dado joint is a more advanced and although it’s not as intricate as a dovetail joint, it is
durable joint that is commonly used to build drawer attractive and more decorative than a simple butt joint.
boxes. there are several benefits that make the rabbet- after the parts are cut to size, you can make
and-dado joint a good choice for drawer box corner the joints with a router table and ¼" straight bit.
joints. it features multiple gluing surfaces. the tongue or, you can follow the same construction process
of the rabbet provides structural joint strength against and make these joints with a table saw and ¼"-wide
the force of opening or closing the drawer. and, dado blade set.
raBBeT-anD-DaDO Drawer BOx
Side height =
Side length = overall overall
drawer box length drawer height
½"-thick
plywood sides Bottom width = overall
drawer width – ½"
¼"-thick plywood bottom
Bottom length = overall
Front/back drawer length – ½"
height = overall
drawer height – ¾"
Front/back
length = overall
drawer width – ½"
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■ How to Make a Rabbet-and-Dado Box
Plywood Grades ▸
You’ll find many grades of plywood when shopping for
drawer box and cabinet case material. Plywood is graded
A through D, with the letter designations describing the
quality of the wood used in the outer plies, or faces.
Plywood is also designated for interior or exterior use. The
finish plywood used for drawer boxes should be grade
B-B or better (A-A would indicate a high-quality, flaw-
free exterior finish on both sides). We recommend Baltic
birch plywood, produced from the Baltic nations. This is
sheet plywood produced in both 5 x 5' and 4 x 8' sheets.
Furniture grade interior Baltic birch plywood is knot- and
streak-free, with an attractive appearance.
1 2
Place the drawer side face down on the router table and use Cut the ¼"-wide × ¼"-deep grooves that will contain the
a miter gauge to guide the piece through the cut. Cut a ¼ × ¼" bottom in the front, back, and side pieces. Set the fence
dado located ¼" from each end of the inside face. ½" away from the edge of the bit. If you are using ½"-thick
plywood for the bottom, make another pass to widen the
grooves to ½". Test the fit of the drawer bottom in the groove.
If the groove is too narrow, move the fence out slightly and
make another pass to widen the groove.
(continued)
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3 4
Cut the ¼ × ¼" rabbets in the ends of the front and back Bore 3⁄16- or ¼"-dia. pilot holes through the drawer box front.
pieces. Place each piece face down and use a miter gauge to Space the holes roughly 6" apart across the middle height of
push it through the cut. Cut the rabbet in a scrap piece first, to the drawer.
check how well the rabbet fits in the drawer side-piece dado.
5 6
Dry-assemble the drawer box to make sure all the parts fit Measure diagonally across the drawer to check for square.
together well. When you’re satisfied with the fit, assemble the If the diagonal measurements are equal, then the drawer is
drawer box with glue. Use cauls to apply even pressure across square. If not, place a clamp across the longer diagonal and
the joints. tighten the clamp to bring the drawer into square.
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■ Installing Drawers
drawers are mounted in the cabinet on drawer spacer, cleat, or bracket to support the slide and keep
slides. there are many types of drawer slides, ranging it flush with the inside edge of the face frame.
from basic slides that cost only a couple dollars a it’s easiest to mount the slides flush with the
pair, to very advanced motor-driven slides that can bottom of the drawer box. place the box on a flat
cost over $100 per pair. the two most common and surface and attach the runners. next, disconnect the
versatile types of slides are roller slides and telescopic guides from the runners. attach the guides to the
ball-bearing slides. both types feature two basic cabinet. make a template to position the guides for
components: a runner that attaches to the drawer and each drawer at exactly the same height on both sides
a guide that attaches to the cabinet. of the cabinet.
it doesn’t matter how beautifully constructed the front of the guide should be flush with
your drawers are; if the drawer slides aren’t installed the front of the cabinet or face frame when you are
correctly, the drawer will not operate properly. the installing overlay drawer fronts. the front of the
slides must be installed perpendicular to the cabinet guide should be set back from the front when you
face, level to each other, and the front edge of each are installing inset or lipped drawers. the setback
slide must be the same distance from the front of distance equals the thickness of the face that is inset
the cabinet. in the face frame. For example, if the drawer face on
the slides are mounted directly to the sides of an inset drawer is ¾" thick, then the guide is installed
frameless cabinets. Face-frame cabinets require a ¾" back from the front of the face frame.
Roller slides are inexpensive and easy
to install. The most common versions of
these slides open 4" less than the length
of the drawer.
Telescopic ball-bearing slides are
available in a wide range of sizes,
providing weight-bearing and extension
options to suit just about any application.
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■ How to Install Drawer Slides
1 2
Spacer
Guide
Spacer
Cabinet slide
runner arm
Place the drawer slide on a flat surface next to the drawer If your cabinet has face frames, make spacers that are the
box. Extend the runner arm from the guide and align the front same thickness as the distance from the cabinet side to the
of the runner with the front of the drawer box. Drive screws inside edge of the face frame and attach them to the cabinet
into a couple of the slotted screw holes. side. Use a framing square to mark a reference line on the
spacers for each slide, level with the face-frame rail top.
3 4
Face-frame rail
runner arm
Guide
Face-frame rail
Disconnect the drawer slide guides from the runner arms Install the drawer in the cabinet by sliding the runner arms
that are mounted to the drawer box. Position the slides inside back into the guides and snapping or locking them into place.
the cabinet drawer openings so the bottom edges are slightly Test the drawer operation and adjust the position of the runners
above the face-frame rail and the other ends are flush with the and guides as necessary. Drive screws into the fixed screw holes
reference lines marked on the spacer. Attach the guides to the once you are assured that the drawer operates properly.
cabinet by driving screws into the slotted screw holes.
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Drawer Slide Spacer Options ▸
The drawer slides in a face-frame cabinet must be flush with the inside edge of the face frame. Mount the drawer slide
guide to a spacer or bracket that is attached to the cabinet side or back.
Wood spacer Back wall bracket
■ How to Adjust Drawer Slides: Box Is Too Narrow
Cut enough shims to match the width
that must be added to the drawer. Make
the shims out of paper, cardboard, wood,
or plastic laminate. Install shims between
the slides and the cabinet side or spacer.
Reinstall the drawer and test the fit. Add or
remove shims until the drawer fits properly.
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■ How to Adjust Drawer Slides: Box Is Too Wide
Option 1: Attach a sacrificial fence to
your table-saw fence. Lower the blade
below the table. Move the edge of the
fence over the blade. Turn on the saw and
raise the blade up into the fence to the
height of the drawer runner. Adjust the
Sacrificial fence
fence so that the width of the amount
of blade that extends beyond the fence
equals the amount you need to trim off
the drawer. Make sure no fasteners are in
the drawer in the cut area. Trim the drawer.
Option 2: Install a straight cutting bit in
your router table. Set the fence so that the
Feed direction amount of the bit that extends above the
table equals the amount you need to trim
off the drawer. Set the fence so your first
Top of slide recess cut will be at the bottom of the recess for
the slide. Move the fence back after each
cut and continue cutting until you reach
the top of the slide recess.
Reattach the runner arm and test the fit
of the drawer. If the drawer is still too wide,
then move the fence over slightly and trim
a little more off the drawer side.
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■ Attaching the Drawer Face
Finish the drawer face before you attach it to the
drawer box. carefully position the drawer face before
you drive any screws. inset drawer faces are centered
in the face-frame drawer opening. overlay drawer
faces on frameless cabinets are centered over the
cabinet sides. drill screw starter holes in the back of
the drawer face and attach the face with screws that
will extend approximately halfway through the face.
For example, use 1" long screws to attach a ¾"-thick
face to a ½"-thick drawer box front.
Finally, attach the drawer knobs or pulls. if you
are installing several drawers, use a jig to consistently
bore the knob or pull pilot holes in the same place on
every drawer face. the screws that are included with
many knobs and pulls are intended for use on ¾"-thick
material. You may have to purchase longer hardware
screws to attach the knobs to a two-piece drawer face.
A drawer face made of solid hardwood gives the drawer a
presentable appearance while maintaining the economy and
strength of a plywood drawer box.
■ How to Attach the Drawer Face
1 2 3
Apply double-sided carpet tape or Carefully slide out the drawers and Use a marking jig to mark drilling
thin adhesive pads to the drawer front attach the faces with No. 8 × 1" washer- points for the drawer hardware pilot
to temporarily attach the drawer face. head screws or panhead screws and holes in the fronts of the drawer faces.
Press the drawer face against the tape, washers. Drive the screws through pilot Bore a 3⁄16"-dia. pilot hole for each
using paper or cardboard spacers to holes in the drawer box front. hardware screw. Attach the drawer pulls
help center drawer faces in face-frame and install the drawers.
openings as necessary.
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Building Cabinet Doors
I f you don’t want everything you’ve got stuffed in your
cabinet to be on constant display, then you’ll need to
build some doors. doors conceal and help keep dust
frame-and-panel doors. both types can be modified
using different wood species, edge profiles, and
finishes to create a style to fit just about any décor.
off the cabinet contents. doors also act as the face of in addition to choosing the door style, you must
the cabinet, defining the cabinet style. also decide how the doors will be mounted on the
there are many types of door construction, cabinet. there are three main types of door mounts:
but the two most common are slab doors and inset, overlay, and lipped.
Tools & Materials ▸
ear and eye 36" and 24" pipe or magnetic touch door self-centering drill bits
protection bar clamps catch (round (for drilling pilot holes
Work gloves small hand saw piston style) with jigs)
table saw (a Japanese pull rail and stile router Wrap-around hinges
router table saw is a good bit set Frameless overlay hinges
power drill choice) piloted rabbeting bit soft close hinge and
combination square brad pusher concealed hinge cabinet adapters
belt and random standard magnetic jig system
orbit sanders door catch
Building your own cabinet doors lets
you customize the design so you can have
precisely the door type you want, such as
these framed doors that are being fitted
with glass panel inserts.
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■ Common Cabinet Door Styles
A slab door is a flat panel. These doors can be made from Frame-and-panel doors are the most popular door style.
solid stock, but they are most often constructed with a These feature a panel that is framed by two vertical stiles and
plywood panel that has its edges concealed with wood edging. two horizontal rails.
■ Door Mount Options
Overlay doors are most often mounted
on frameless cabinets with concealed
hinges, but these versatile doors can also
be installed over a face-frame cabinet.
They are more forgiving to install than
inset doors because there is no exposed
gap between the door and cabinet.
Inset doors are usually mounted on
face-frame cabinets. The face of an inset
door is flush with the face frame. These
are the most challenging doors to install
because they must be perfectly centered
in the frame opening to maintain an even
gap around the door.
Lipped doors are a hybrid between inset
and overlay. They feature a rabbet that is
cut in the back edge to fit inside the
face-frame opening. Lipped doors are often
used on manufactured face-frame cabinets.
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■ Determining Cabinet Door Sizes
the first step in building doors is to determine the size wider than the top rail. a wider bottom rail gives the
of the doors. to prevent sagging, the maximum width of door good proportions by adding a little more visual
each door should not be more than 24". if the cabinet weight to the bottom of the door. a wider bottom rail
opening is greater than 24" wide, use two doors. also adds more gluing surface, creating a stronger
if you are building large frame-and-panel doors or frame to support the weight of the door.
glass doors, design the doors with a bottom rail that is
■ Measuring for Cabinet Door Dimensions
If you’re installing inset doors, measure the height and If you are installing overlay doors, measure the height
width of the face-frame openings. Determine the door width and width of the cabinet to the outside edges of the cabinet
and height by subtracting the width of the gaps that must be sides, top, and bottom. Then subtract 1⁄8" from the height and
left around the edges of the doors and between doors. width measurements.
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■ Building Frame-and-Panel Cabinet Doors
rail
Stile
Stile
Panel
rail
There are several ways to build frame-and-panel doors. The doors for this cabinet are made using a rail-and-stile, also referred to
as a cope-and-stick, router bit set. This set contains two router bits; one bit that cuts the stub tenon in the ends of the rails, and a
second bit that cuts the panel groove and edge profile.
Frame-and-Panel router Bit Set ▸
One of the most efficient ways to make a frame-and-
panel door is with a router table and bit set often called a Stick bit Cope bit
cope-and-stick bit set. The two bits in this set cut opposite
profiles that fit together to create a tight corner joint. The
coping bit (sometimes referred to as the rail cutter) cuts
the stub tenons in the ends of the rails. The sticking bit
(sometimes referred to as the stile cutter) cuts the groove
and top-edge profile in the inside edges of the rails and
stiles. There are also single combination router bits that
make both the cuts by adjusting the bit height.
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■ How to Build a Frame-and-Panel Door
Set the bit height so that the bit will
1 leave an 1⁄8"-deep rabbet above the stub
tenon. Set the fence so that it lines up
with the outside edge of the router bit
pilot bearing.
Make test cuts in the ends of scrap
2 pieces to check the bit height setting. Then
cut the stub tenons in the ends of the
actual rails, using a miter gauge to feed
the rails face down past the bit. Be careful
when routing small pieces like this; move
slowly and steadily.
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Set the sticking bit height so that the
3 groove-cutting blade is aligned with the
stub tenon on the rails. Set the fence so
that it lines up with the outside edge of the
router bit pilot bearing. Make test cuts in
a scrap piece and adjust the bit height as
necessary to create a perfect alignment
between the rail and stile pieces.
Feed the rails and stiles face down past
4 the bit to cut the grooves in the inside
edges of the stiles and rails. Use feather
boards to help maintain even pressure
throughout the cut.
Dry-assemble the frame and measure
5 the panel opening width and height. Cut
the panel to size and sand it smooth.
Apply finish to the frame parts and panel.
Apply glue to the stub tenon joints, insert
the panel in the grooves, and assemble
the door frame. Clamp the frames.
Measure across the diagonals to check
the doors for square. If the measurements
are equal, then the doors are square. If the
measurements aren’t equal, clamp across
the longer diagonal to square the door.
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■ Glass Panel Doors
glass panel doors are a great way to equip a cabinet
to highlight a favorite collection, beautiful glasses, Glass Cabinet Insert Options ▸
or special occasion dinnerware. it’s not much more
Although tempered glass is your safest and best
difficult to install glass panels than it is to install
choice for high-traffic cabinets that will be opened
solid insert panels made from plywood or another
and closed every day, if you’re building cabinets
wood product. if you’re installing real glass panels, it’s
that will see less use, you might consider a more
always safest to purchase tempered glass for any door
decorative glass for the opening. You can use
application. if you don’t mind the look, you can also
“machined glass” inserts for an interesting effect that
use clear acrylic or polycarbonate panels. these won’t
won’t add much to the cost of the panes. Machined
shatter, of course, but they tend to get scratched and
glass comes in uniform, repetitive textures, such
will become cloudy over time.
as dimples and straight-line striations, and more
make and join the door frame rails and stiles the
random, irregular patterns such as “reamy” or
same way you’d do it for a plywood panel door (see
“waterglass.” Spend a little bit more and you can
pages 104-105), but assemble the frames without
choose from a broad palette of stained-glass colors.
the panel and then install the glass panes in recesses
Use them as a single sheet insert, or go a little more
you cut into the completed frames. if you have the
complex and lead different colors into the same
capability and equipment, use mortise-and-tenon
cabinet door. You can also turn to other glass art
joints for the frame. the back inside edges of the
forms for a totally unique look, such as sandblasted,
frame opening must be rabbeted to create a recess
painted, or even fused glass panels.
against which the glass will fit.
When considering glass inserts, you can pick from a lot more options than plain clear glass. The pebbled machine glass shown
in these cabinets is just one of a wide range of textures available. You can also choose stained glass if you want to introduce a bit
of color.
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■ How to Make Glass Panel Cabinet Doors
1 2
Create the panel recess. First, install a 3⁄8"-dia. bottom- Finish the cuts by using a wood chisel to square the corners.
bearing rabbetting bit in your router. Secure the assembled Remove the waste wood a little at a time, taking care not to
wood frame to your work surface. Engage the router and cut split the wood or damage the corner joints.
a 3⁄8 × 3⁄8" recess around the entire back inside edge of the
frame opening. Make these rabbet cuts in multiple passes of
increasing depth.
3 4
Blade guard removed for clarity
On a table saw, rip-cut wood stock (the same type used for Cut the glass pieces (or have them cut) 1⁄8" shorter than the
the frame) into ¼ × ¼" lengths and then cut them to fit inside rabbeted frame opening in each direction. Cut the retainer
the frame opening, creating retainer strips. Use a push stick to strips to fit along each side of the glass. Bore 1⁄32"-dia. pilot
move the narrow pieces across the blade. Sand and finish the holes through the retainer strips, spaced 6 to 8" apart, making
doors and retainer strips to match the cabinet. sure the pilot holes are positioned so the brads will not contact
the glass panel. Use a brad pusher or small tack hammer
to drive ¾"-long brad nails through pilot holes and into the
vertical surfaces of the frame recess opening. Then, set the nail
heads with a nailset. Tip: Set a piece of cardboard over the
glass surface to protect it.
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■ Building Slab Doors
slab doors are flat wood (as opposed to frame-and-
panel doors). You can make them from a single piece Tools & Materials ▸
of wood stock if you can find one wide enough, but
this is usually not going to be possible. more often, table saw or circular saw with straightedge
slab doors are crafted by edge-gluing multiple strips of hand saw
solid wood, or by attaching edging to a plywood panel. masking tape
plywood is used to make most slab doors because it is ¾" cabinet-grade plywood
much more dimensionally stable than solid wood, and ¼"-thick edging strips
thus less likely to cup or warp. glue
the edges of plywood slab doors should be sandpaper
concealed with solid wood edging. if the doors will be eye and ear protection
used infrequently, iron-on veneer edge tape may be an Work gloves
acceptable way to cover the plywood edges.
the key to making a basic slab door is precise
measurements. if the door is out of square even a
minute amount, the error will be glaringly apparent
as soon as it is mounted on the cabinet. You can cut a to make plywood doors with ¼"-thick solid wood
single piece of wood for the door, but this is not only edging, first subtract ½" from the height and width
expensive, it’s often difficult to find lumber in the of the finished door size. cut the plywood to these
appropriate dimensions and in the species you prefer. dimensions. use solid stock that is slightly thicker
the method shown here is actually less expensive than the plywood to make the edge strips. this is
and easier and, when done correctly, every bit as pretty easy to do, since most of the veneered plywood
stable and sturdy. that we refer to as ¾" thick is actually slightly smaller.
Tip ▸
Blade guard removed
for clarity
Make your own edging strips instead of buying pre-
milled molding. Rip-cut ¼"-thick edge strips from ¾"
hardwood stock using a table saw. Use a push stick
to feed the thin stock past the blade.
Slab door with edging
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■ How to Make a Slab Door
1 2
Use a table saw or circular saw and straightedge guide to cut Attach the side edging strips with glue. Stretch masking
the plywood panels to size. Remember to allow for the edging tape across the strips to hold them down tightly while the glue
strip thickness when determining the required panel size to dries. Make sure none of the plywood edge is exposed beyond
yield a door that’s the final dimensions you need. the edge pieces.
3 4
After the glue dries, remove the tape or clamps and use a Cut the top and bottom edging strips to length and secure
hand saw (a gentleman’s saw, back saw, or flush-cutting saw them to the door edges with glue. Trim the ends of the edging
will do) to trim the ends of the edging flush. Touch up the strips once the glue has dried. Sand the edges of the edging
cuts with sandpaper so that the strip ends are flush with, and strips so they are flush with both the back and front plywood
square to, the panel. faces. Use a sanding block and 150-grit sandpaper, and be
careful not to sand through the veneer.
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hanging Cabinet Doors
U nlike others doors in your house, cabinet doors
don’t come pre-hung unless you buy stock
cabinets. but luckily, mounting a cabinet door is a
guide. there are also specially designed concealed
hinge jig kits that include the bit, right-angle guide,
and positioning jig. these kits make installing this type
good deal simpler than hanging a house door directly of hinge very easy.
into existing jambs with butt hinges. this is especially Follow the installation instructions included
true since newer, easier-to-install hinge hardware has with most concealed hinges. the basic installation
taken over most of the cabinetry market. the two most process is to first hold the door in position against the
popular of the newer hinge types are concealed “cup” cabinet or face frame. then mark the center location
hinges and wrap-around butt hinges. of the hinges on the door and cabinet side or face
concealed hinges are sometimes referred to as frame. next, bore the hinge cup mortise. then install
cup hinges because of the inset hinge cup component, the hinge cup component to the door. Fasten the
and also as european hinges because, until recently mounting bracket to the cabinet side. Finally, mount
they were primarily made by european hardware the hinge arms on the mounting plates and adjust the
manufacturers. these hinges have been used for door position.
many years by professionals and commercial cabinet
manufacturers, but they are now available at home
centers for woodworking hobbyists and diYers.
one of the biggest benefits of concealed hinges is
their adjustability. some models can be adjusted on all
three planes: up/down, left/right, and in/out, making it
much easier to achieve a perfect fit.
concealed hinges feature two components: a
hinge cup that recesses into the door, and a mounting
plate that attaches to the side of the cabinet or to the
Concealed cup hinge
face frame. installing these hinges typically requires a
35mm Forstner drill bit. this type of bit bores the flat
bottom hole into which the hinge cup sits. this hole
is drilled with a drill press or a special right-angle drill
Modern cabinet door hinges have two
big advantages over simple butt hinges:
they are faster to install and they are
easier to adjust.
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■ How to Install Concealed Hinges
1 2
Mark the center of the hinge location on the back of the Use a drill guide and jig or a drill press to bore the cup
door and cabinet side or face frame. Use a template to ensure mortise. This mortise dimension is typically 35mm dia. × 8-mm
that the hinge marks are exactly the same top and bottom. deep. Check your hinge installation directions for specific
mortise dimensions.
3 4 5
Fasten the hinge-cup component to Follow the manufacturer instructions Adjust the door position by loosening
the door with the supplied hinge screws. or use a jig to position the mounting or turning the hinge adjustment screws.
Use a combination square to make sure plate on the hinge center mark that you
the hinge arm is perpendicular to the made on the cabinet side.
door edge.
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■ Wrap-Around Butt Hinges
butt hinges are the hardware of choice for many face- because butt hinges are not self closing, you’ll
frame cabinets. consider using a wrap-around butt need to install either a mechanical latch, or a magnetic
hinge when you are hanging a heavy inset-door on a catch on the opening side of the face frame and door.
face frame. these hinges are rigid, which prevents the catches are far more popular than latches because
door from sagging the way it might if it were hanging they are quieter and require less precision to install.
on a concealed hinge with a long hinge arm. Full-wrap
butt hinges provide the same appearance and no-sag
benefits of butt hinges with the added benefit of being
easier to install. these hinges often feature slotted and
nonslotted screw holes for easy adjustment. Wrap-around butt hinge
Wrap-around butt hinges also come in many
different decorative styles. some simply feature
modestly ornamental hinge pins, while others boast
amazingly filigreed tongues that are well-suited
to period style or themed cabinetry with special
finishes. as with pulls and handles, you should
choose a butt hinge style that best suits the look and
function of the cabinets you’ve selected. butt hinges
are very rarely used on frameless cabinets.
■ How to Install Wrap-around Butt Hinges
Install wrap-around hinges so that the
1 top and bottom of the hinge barrel is 2 to
4" from the top or bottom (respectively) of
the door. Mark the hinge locations on the
back of the door.
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Bore pilot holes through the centers
2 of the slotted hinge holes only. Drive the
hinge screws in the slotted holes to attach
the hinge to the door.
Use a helper to center the door on the
3 face-frame stile, holding the hinge plates
against the stile. Bore pilot holes in the
slotted hinge holes and then drive the
hinge screws in the pilot holes. Once the
door is fully mounted, centered in the
face frame and operating properly, drive
screws in the nonslotted holes to lock the
door in place.
Attach a magnetic catch near the top of
4 the door. Adjust the position of the catch
so that the door is flush with the face
frame when closed.
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■ Door and Drawer Hardware
KNOBS & PULLS
despite their small size, knobs and pulls play a major
role in defining the style of the cabinets. simply
replacing the knobs is sometimes enough to refresh
the appearance of dated or worn-out cabinets.
there is no rule dictating whether to use knobs
or pulls on your doors. it’s really up to your personal
taste. You can use the same knobs or pulls on both
drawers and doors or use a combination of knobs and
pulls, such as pulls on the drawers and knobs on the
doors. pulls are easier to grab and a better choice if
the homeowner has less hand strength.
it’s important to install all the knobs or pulls in
exactly the same place on every door. the best method
is to use a hole-alignment jig to drill the pilot holes.
You can make a simple jig using scrap wood or clear
plastic, or you can purchase a manufactured jig.
■ How to Install Pulls
1 2
Use a jig to consistently mark positions for the pilot holes Position a backer board behind the door frame in the drilling
you’ll need to drill in order to install the knobs or pulls. You can area. A backer board prevents blowout in the wood on the
find these at hardware stores and home centers. backside of the hole. Drill guide holes for the knobs or pulls at
the positions you’ve marked. Install the pull or knob with the
mounting bolt that comes with the hardware.
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CATCHeS self-closing hinges do not require a catch, but
most butt hinges do not feature self-closing you can add a high-end touch by installing a soft-
mechanisms, so they require a catch to keep the door close piston. this easy-to-install accessory stops a
from opening at unwanted times. in most cases, the closing door about ½" before it hits the cabinet and
catch should be installed at the top and near the then gently closes it against the cabinet, eliminating
outside end of the door. banging doors.
■ Catches & Soft Closers
Hinge-mounted soft closers fit on a specific matching Cabinet mounted soft closers turn a door mounted on self-
brand and model of hinge. closing hinges into a soft closing door.
A magnetic catch is the standard catch to use with any door A touch latch pops open the door with a gentle tap on the
that is not mounted on a self-closing hinge. front of the door—no knob or pulls necessary.
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Bathroom window Seat
T wo things that many bathrooms (and other rooms
for that matter) lack are adequate storage and a
comfortable place to sit. this built-in window-seat
Tools & Materials ▸
bench is especially designed to address both those table saw or circular (1) ½ × 4 × 4, baltic
inadequacies. the drawer is deep enough to hold saw birch plywood
three or four large towels or a family-sized collection of router table or table (1) 1× 6 × 8, solid
toiletries. the bench is just the right height for taking saw wood (face
a seat while you get dressed, and with the addition cordless power drill frames)
of a seat cushion it will be comfortable enough for no. 8 pilot and (1) 1 × 2 × 8, solid
lounging. You can build the bench to fit a common countersink drill wood (seat edge)
cushion size or you can make your own cushion to fit bit (1 pr.) 18" drawer
the bench. pneumatic brad slides
this bench design will look most natural and nail gun and 1¼" wood screws
meet your particular needs best if you customize it compressor (or 2" wood screws
to fit the space you have. this will mean taking some hammer) 1" panhead screws
measurements and calculating the dimensions for Wood glue and washers
your project based on your available space. also, some ¼"-dia. straight router 1" brad nails
parts are optional depending on where the bench is bit or ¼"-wide 1½" brad nails
installed. For example, if the bench is installed with dado blade set optional:
a vanity directly against one side but the other side is (1) ¼ × 2 × 4, birch (1) ¼ × 2 × 4,
open and exposed, you will need to make a seat side veneer plywood veneer plywood
edge piece and a side finished panel. but if the bench (cabinet back) (finish end; same
is captured between two taller objects, such as a vanity (1) ¾ × 4 × 8, birch species as solid
and a tub with a high sidewall, then you won’t see the veneer plywood wood)
sides and do not need the side trim or finished panel. (bench cabinet eye and ear
sides, top and protection
bottom) Work gloves
This built-in bench tucks in snugly next to a vanity cabinet and in front of a window. Fitted with a comfortable cushion, it
provides convenient seating for getting dressed, and the ample storage is always a welcome addition to a bathroom.
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Cutting List
L
M
C n
a
B
D
e
K
G B
a
h F
O
I
h D
j
j G
Key nO. ParT DIMenSIOn Key nO. ParT DIMenSIOn
a 2 Cabinet sides ¾ × 16 × 18½" j 2 Drawer fronts ¾ × 5½ × (Y – (2¾))"
B 2 Cabinet top/bottom ¾ × 18½ × (Y – 2)" K 2 Drawer slide cleats ¾ × 2 × 18¼"
C 1 Back ¼ × 12¾ × (Y – 2)" L 1 Seat (without side trim) ¾ × 19½ × (Y + ¼)"
D 2 Stiles ¾ × 1¾ × 16" M 1 Seat front edge ¾ × 1 × (cut to fit)"
e 1 Top rail ¾ × 1¾ × (Y – (3½))" n 1 Seat side edge (Opt.) ¾ × 1 × 20"
F 1 Bottom rail ¾ × 4 × (Y – (3½))" O 1 Side finished panel (Opt.) ¼ × 16 × 18½"
G 2 Drawer box sides ½ × 9 × 18" * Y = width of opening for built-in (see step 1,
h 2 Drawer box front/back ½ × 9 × (Y – 5)" next page)
I 1 Drawer box bottom ½ × 17½ × (Y – 5)"
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■ How to Build a Bathroom Window Seat
1 2
Measure the width of the space where you plan to install Apply glue to the back edges of the top and bottom. Then
the cabinet. Measure in several places and record the smallest place the back between the sides on the back edges of the top
measurement. Plug this measurement in as Y in the cutting and bottom. Use a table saw and straightedge guide to cut the
list equations to determine your part dimensions. To alter the pieces to size. Place them on a flat work surface with the front
cabinet width, you’ll need to adjust the length (by a consistent edges down. Align the top face of the top with the top edges
amount) of the cabinet top, bottom and back panels, the top of the sides and position the top face of the bottom so it is 4"
and bottom rails, the seat and the drawers. Identify obstacles, from the bottom edge of the sides. Attach the sides to the top
such as electrical outlets or HVAC registers, that will have to be and bottom with 2" flathead wood screws. Drill a pilot hole and
removed or relocated for the bench to be installed. countersink at each screw location. Adjust the cabinet so it is
square and then attach the back with glue and 1" brads or
18-ga. pneumatic nails.
3 4
Cut the face-frame rails and stiles to size. Use a pocket- Place the drawer side face down on the router table and use
hole jig and drill bit to bore the pocket holes in the rails. Then a miter gauge to guide the piece through the cut. Cut a ¼ × ¼"
assemble the face-frame with pocket screws. Attach the face dado located ¼" from each end of the inside face.
frame to the cabinet with glue and 1½" brads. The outside
edges of the face frame overhang the bench cabinet sides by
¼". The inside edges of the face frame overhang the inside
faces of the cabinet sides by ¾".
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5 6
Cut the ½"-wide × ¼"-deep grooves that will contain the Dry-assemble the drawer, using clamps to hold the parts, to
bottom in the front, back, and side pieces (top photo). Cut the make sure all the parts fit together well. Assemble the drawer
groove in two passes. Test the fit of the drawer bottom in the with glue, adjusting the parts and clamps as necessary to
groove. If the groove is too narrow, move the fence out slightly make them square (perpendicular and parallel) to each other.
and make another pass to widen the groove. Then, cut the ¼ ×
¼" rabbets in the ends of the front and back pieces. Place each
piece face down and use a miter gauge to push it through the
cut. Test-cut a rabbet in a scrap piece first, to check how well
the rabbet fits in the drawer side-piece dado.
7 8
Mount the drawer slides (see page 55). Bore 3⁄16"-dia. pilot Attach the top to the bench with 1¼" screws. When
holes through the drawer box fronts. Then attach the drawer installing, use shims to fill any gaps between the side of the
faces with No. 8 × 1" panhead screws and washers. Use 4 to 6 bench and the vanity or other flat surface and attach the
screws per drawer face, depending on how large the faces are. cabinet to the vanity with 1½" screws. If you would like to
integrate the look of the bench with the vanity, wrap the base
with the same base molding that is used on the walls.
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recessed Cabinet
I f you’ve got a recessed wall area that you’re not sure
how to use, a built-in cabinet might be a perfect fit.
For example, the set-back space created on one or
You can build a recessed cabinet with or without
doors. in the version seen here, glass panel doors were
built, but you can also use solid, natural wood veneer,
both sides of a bumped-out fireplace is a perfect spot or painted plywood panels to conceal the cabinet
to install a built-in cabinet. interior. it is important to purchase tempered glass
building a recessed cabinet is very similar to when you are building glass panel doors. tempered
building a freestanding cabinet. the key difference glass is treated with heat so that if it is broken, it will
is that a recessed cabinet must fit perfectly between shatter into small pieces that are less likely to cause
the side walls. the easiest way to make a cabinet that serious cuts. it’s also stronger. You can’t cut it yourself,
will fit correctly is to make a basic interior cabinet so be sure to get the size correct when you order it
case that’s slightly smaller than the available space and cut-to-fit.
then build a face frame and top cover that will cover building this cabinet requires intermediate
the edges of the cabinet and fit snuggly against the woodworking skills and a few woodworking power tools,
walls. the secret to achieving a perfect fit is to make including a table saw, miter saw, and router table.
the face frame and top slightly oversized and then
scribe them to fit against the walls.
Tools & Materials ▸
table saw (1) ¾ × 4 × 8 plain-sawn cherry veneer plywood
miter saw (2) ¾ × 1½" × 8-ft. cherry
power drill (2) ¾ × 2½" × 8-ft. cherry
pocket hole jig kit (1) ¾ × 5 × 48" cherry
Finish or random orbit sander 2" flat-head wood screws
eye and ear protection 2½" flat-head wood screws
Work gloves 1¼" fine thread washer-head (pocket) screws
18-ga. × 2" brad nails
Doors: (24) ¼"-dia. shelf pins
router table
rail and stile router bit set Doors (to make four roughly 11 × 46" doors):
3
⁄8"-rad. rabbet bottom-bearing router bit (5) ¾ × 2" × 8-ft. solid cherry
(1) ¾ × 4 × 30 solid cherry
Cabinet materials (to make one roughly (4 pr.) nonmortise full-wrap hinges
4-ft.-wide × 4-ft.-tall × 12"-deep cabinet): (4) 1⁄8"-thick tempered glass panels
(2) 2 × 4 × 8-ft. pine (4) magnetic door catches
(1) ¼ × 4 × 8 plain-sawn cherry veneer plywood 18-ga. × ¾" brad nails
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Cutting List
L
M
C
n
F
e
O
I
D
P
D
S
h
C
r
B
Q B
K a
h
j
a
B
Key nO. DeSCrIPTIOn DIMenSIOn Key nO. DeSCrIPTIOn DIMenSIOn
Cabinet K 1 Face-frame center stile ¾ × 2¾ × 45¼"
a 2 Base rails 1½ × 3½ × 46" L 1 Top ¾ × 11¾ × 48"
B 3 Base cross pieces 1½ × 3½ × 8¼" M 1 Top front edge ¾ × 1¼ × 48"
C 2 Cabinet top and bottom ¾ × 11 × 43½" n 6 Shelf ¾ × 11 × 43¼"
D 2 Cabinet sides ¾ × 11 × 48" O 6 Shelf edge ¾ × 1 × 43¼"
e 1 Cabinet back ¼ × 45 × 48" P 4 Top rail ¾ × 1 5⁄ 8 × 6 5⁄ 8 "
F 1 Cabinet divider ¾ × 11 × 46½" Q 4 Bottom rail ¾ × 3 5⁄ 8 × 6 5⁄ 8 "
G 2 Back cleats ¾ × 2½ × 43½" r 8 Stiles ¾ × 2 × 44½"
h 2 Face-frame stiles ¾ × 2½ × 51½" S 16 Glass tack strips ¼ × ¼" × glass perimeter
I 1 Face-frame top rail ¾ × 2½ × 43"
j 1 Face-frame bottom rail ¾ × 4¼ × 43"
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■ How to Build a Recessed Cabinet
1 2
Measure the width of the space where the cabinet will be Cut the base frame parts to length and assemble the base
installed. Measure at several heights above the floor and at with 2½" wood screws. Center the base between the side
the front and back of the space. Record and use the smallest walls and against the back wall. Level the base with shims and
measurement. Note: You’ll need to limit the shelf lengths to then attach it to the back wall. Drive 3" drywall screws through
no more than 30" long—any span larger than that and they are the back base rail and into the wall studs. Trim off any exposed
likely to sag and break. Shorten shelf lengths in a wide cabinet shims flush with the front edge of the base.
by dividing the cabinet into multiple sections with vertical
divider panels. Also use vertical dividers if you plan to store
heavy objects on the shelves.
3 4
Cut the cabinet sides, dividers, top, and bottom. Bore the Attach the back panel with glue and 1" brads. Keep the
shelf-pin holes and cut the back cleats to length. Sand each cabinet sides, top, and bottom perpendicular as you attach
part and attach the sides to the top and bottom with 2" wood the back panel. Place the cabinet frame on the base. Center
screws. Bore pilot holes before driving screws into plywood the cabinet on the base and align the front edge of the cabinet
edges. Attach the back cleats to the sides and top with 2" with the front edge of the base.
wood screws. Attach the divider panels to the top and bottom
with 2" screws. Use a square to make sure the divider is
perpendicular to the top and bottom. Bore a pilot hole and
countersink hole for each screw. Drive the screws through the
top and bottom. (continued)
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5 6
Attach the cabinet to the wall. Bore a pilot and countersink The face frame and top are made to fit exactly between
hole through the back cleat and side panels at each stud the walls and will cover the gaps that were left between the
location. Place scrap blocks or shims behind each screw hole cabinet and walls. Cut the face-frame stiles and rails to size.
to fill the gap between the wall and cabinet. Secure the cabinet Temporarily attach the rails to the cabinet with tape. Then,
with 3" drywall screws. scribe the stiles to follow the profile of the wall. Hold the stile
perpendicular to the rails and against the side wall. Set a
compass opening to match the distance that the stile overlaps
the ends of the rails.
7 8
Hold the metal point of the Assemble the cabinet face frame with pocket screws. Clamp the parts to a large work
compass against the wall and surface to keep them perpendicular as they are connected. Sand the face frame smooth.
pull the compass down along the Attach the face frame to the cabinet frame with glue and a few 18 ga. × 1¼" brads.
wall to trace the profile of the
wall onto the face of the stile. The
stile must remain perpendicular
to the rails as you draw the scribe
line. Follow the same process to
scribe the other stile. Trim the
stiles along the scribe lines.
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Tape together pieces of paper or
9 cardboard to make a template for the
top. Leave a 1⁄8" space between the
template and the walls. Then, trace the
template on the top panel stock and cut
out the top. Cut the top front edge piece
the same length as the front edge of the
top panel. Attach the top front edge to
the top with glue.
Clamp the front edge until the glue
10 has cured. Remove the clamps, sand the
top assembly, and attach the top to the
cabinet with 1¼" screws. Drive the screws
through the underside of the cabinet top
panel and into the finished top. Use one
screw in each corner and two screws
evenly spaced near the front and back of
the cabinet.
This router bit set cuts a 3⁄8"–long stub
11 tenon. The extra ¾" necessary for the two
stub tenons must be added to the length
of the rails. Rout the stub tenons on the
ends of the rails. Set the router bit height
so the top cutter will mill a 1⁄8"-deep rabbet
above the stub tenon.
Guard lifted for visual clarity
(continued)
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Rout the groove profile in the inside
12 edges of the rails and stiles. Set the
router bit height to align the groove
with the stub tenon (inset). Make test
cuts in a scrap piece to adjust the bit
height for a perfect fit before cutting
the actual parts.
13 14
Assemble the door frame with glue. Measure diagonally Use a chisel to clean up the corners of the rabbet that the
across the corners to check the frame for square. router bit does not reach. Use a bottom-bearing rabbet bit to
remove the back lip of the groove. Set the bit depth so that
the bearing rides on the front edge or “stick” profile of the
door (inset).
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15 16
Fasten the hinge to the door using the slotted screw Install the glass in the doors after the finish is dry. Place a
holes first. These holes allow you to adjust the door position sheet of glass in each door. Cut the tack strips to fit along each
slightly. Drive screws in the fixed screw holes after the door side of the glass. Bore 1⁄32"-dia. pilot holes through the tack strips,
is positioned correctly in the cabinet. Drill pilot holes for each spacing them 6" apart. Place the strips over the glass and drive
screw to prevent stripping the screw head, breaking the an 18 ga. × ¾" brad nail into each pilot hole. Use a brad push tool
screws or splitting the door stile. to drive the brads or gently tap the brads with a small hammer.
Cover the glass with a piece of cardboard to protect it.
Door Dimensions ▸
To prevent sagging, the maximum width of each door should be less than 24". If the cabinet opening is greater than 24"
wide, use two doors. The bottom rail is wider than the top rail for two reasons. First, a wider bottom rail gives the door
good scale by adding a little more visual weight to the bottom of the door. Second, the wider dimension adds more gluing
surface, creating a stronger frame to support the glass panel.
1
⁄16 " gap
between
the top, Door overall dimensions:
bottom,
and sides Door width = face-frame
and the
face frame
opening width – side gaps
(1⁄16 sides and 3⁄32 between doors)
Door
opening
height Door height = face-frame
opening height – top and
bottom gaps (1⁄8 total)
Door part dimensions:
Door stile length = height of door
⁄32 " gap
3 Door opening
between width
Door rail length =
doors
width of door – 2 (stile width)
+ 2 (tenon length)
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Media Bar
Y our snacks and beverages will always be close at
hand during the big game when your flat-panel
tV is mounted in this media cabinet. it combines
Tools & Materials ▸
the functionality of an entertainment center and table saw or circular saw and straightedge
the convenience of a mini kitchen. the base and Jigsaw
upper cabinets provide storage for your home theater power drill
components, movies, games, and snacks. there’s level
also a space between the base cabinets for a small 2"-dia. hole saw bit
refrigerator or beverage cooler. the counter serves as drill bits (1⁄8, ¼")
a perfect serving station or a place to keep a couple caulk gun
additional small appliances, such as a microwave (5) 2 × 4 × 8-ft.
or blender. and, the integrated matching wood wall (2) 1 × 4 × 8-ft.
conceals a structural frame that is easy to mount your screws (1¼, 2, 2½")
tV to and provides a path for cables from the tV to panel adhesive
your electronic components in the base cabinet. (1) ½" × 4 × 8 finish-grade plywood
this unit may look like a custom-built piece of (3) 24" base cabinets
furniture, but it’s actually made from a combination (2) 24" wall cabinets
of stock kitchen cabinets and matching cover panels. (1) 25½" × 8 ft. countertop
building it only requires a few portable power tools eye and ear protection
and basic building skills. Work gloves
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Cutting List
24" wall cabinets
A
A
A
A
A
B
H
D
F
G
E
C J
I
24" base cabinets
KEy NO. DEsCrIpTION DIMENsION KEy NO. DEsCrIpTION DIMENsION
A 5 Wall frame studs 1½ × 3½ × 60" F 1 Back splash panels ½ × 20 × 48"
B 3 Wall frame cleats ¾ × 3½ × 47" G 1 Wall frame front cover panels ½ × 48 × 60"
C 1 Base cabinet cover panel ½ × 24 × 30" H 1 Wall cabinet side cover panel ½ × 85⁄8 × 40"
D 1 Left frame side cover panel ½ × 4¼ × 60" I 1 Front-toe kick ½ × 4½* × 24"
E 1 Right frame side cover panel ½ × 4¼ × 20" J 1 or 2 Side-toe kick ½ × 4½* × 24"
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■ How to Build a Media Bar
1
Install any necessary electrical outlets and cables or wire before you install the cabinets. Locate and mark the wall stud
locations. Assemble wall and base cabinet frames if they are not pre-assembled. Wait to install doors and drawers until the cover
panels are attached. Install the wall cabinets. In this case a metal bracket is attached to the wall and the cabinets are fastened
to the metal bracket. Attach the cabinets to each other with fasteners provided by the cabinet manufacturer or by driving short
screws through the cabinet sides.
2 3
Cut access holes in the base cabinet. Trace outlines for Position base cabinets against the wall and level them.
the access holes in the back panel and top spreader on the Screw them together and then to the wall. Cut the countertop
cabinet that will be installed in front of the wall outlet. Drill access hole. Attach masking tape to the countertop to help
3
⁄8"-dia. saw blade starter holes at each corner of the outline. prevent chipping the surface when it is cut. Mark the access
Use a jigsaw to cut the sides of the hole. notch outline on the countertop. Cut the notch with a jigsaw.
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Attach the countertop to the cabinets.
4 Drive 15⁄8" screws through the cabinet top
and into the countertop. Be careful not to
overdrive the screws and break through
the top surface of the countertop. Note:
Natural stone countertop materials require
a diamond abrasive blade and should be
cut by a stone countertop fabricator.
Cut the 2 × 4 wall frame posts and
5 1 × 4 cleats to length and assemble them
with 2" wood screws. Then place the wall
frame on the countertop and against the
wall cabinet. Attach the frame to the wall.
Drive 2½" drywall screws through the wall
frame cleats and into the room wall studs.
Drive three screws into each stud.
(continued)
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Cut the backsplash panels to size using
6 a plywood cutting blade with a high tooth
count to prevent the finished surface
from chipping. Cut any outlet openings
and attach the backsplash panels with
panel adhesive. Attach the wall frame
side cover panels to the wall frame with
panel adhesive and 15⁄8" screws. Clamp
the panels in position while you drive the
screws through the inside face of the wall
frame posts. Drill a 1⁄8"-dia. pilot hole and
countersink for each screw.
Cut the wall frame front panels to
7 size. The cover panel stock features one
finished edge. Install the panels with the
finished edges on the outside and the
unfinished edges butted together at the
middle seam. Attach the panels to the
frame with panel adhesive. Measure the
distance from the face of the front panel
to the front edge of the wall cabinet. Add
the thickness of the door to determine the
width of the wall cabinet side cover panel.
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Cut the wall cabinet side cover panel to
8 size. Attach the wall and base cabinet side
panels. Clamp the panel to the cabinet
side and drive 1" screws through the
inside face of the cabinet side. Then install
the toe-kick panels, doors, and drawers.
Use a 2" hole saw to bore an access hole
9 through the wall frame front panel. This
hole should be located directly above the
notch in the countertop and close to the
TV mounting bracket so that the TV will
conceal it. Follow the manufacturer
instructions to install the TV mounting
bracket. Fish the component cables and
speaker cable through the access holes
and behind the front panels. Follow the
manufacturer instructions to secure the
TV to the mounting bracket and mount
the speaker.
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Full-Height Medicine Cabinet
A classic medicine chest is a great storage solution
for several reasons. First, it keeps your personal
care products right where you need them—near the
Tools & Materials ▸
sink. second, its multiple shallow shelves store small Work gloves ac plywood
items in plain view, so there’s no digging around for eye and ear (¼", ¾")
everyday necessities. built-in medicine cabinets are protection poplar (1 × 4, 1 × 6)
recessed into the wall, minimizing the impact on tape measure shims
the room’s precious floor space. and finally, most circular saw pegboard
medicine chests serve a dual purpose in the bathroom miter saw shelf pins
by incorporating mirrored doors. power drill door catch
indeed, the basic medicine chest design leaves clamps Finish nails
little room for improvement. that’s why the bathroom chisel (1½, 2¼")
cabinet in this project takes the same great features mallet construction
and simply makes more of them. this built-in cabinet drywall saw adhesive
has a 3½"-deep storage space yet projects only ¾" putty knife mirror
from the wall (not counting the overhead crown level (approx. 10 × 48")
molding). inside, it’s loaded with adjustable shelves, drill guide Wood putty
so it can hold not only prescription bottles and paint brush Finishing materials
toiletries, but also taller items like shampoo bottles caulk gun crown molding
and cleaning supplies. and the cabinet’s door is tall
enough to accommodate a full-length mirror—a great
convenience feature for any bathroom.
the box of this medicine cabinet is sized to fit
into a standard 14½"-wide space between wall studs.
With the drywall cut away, the box slips into place
and mounts directly to the studs. then you trim out
the cabinet to fit the style of your bathroom. the
traditional molding treatment shown here is only one
way to do it; you can add any type of molding and
extras you like using the same techniques. another
option is to build a similar cabinet that mounts to the
surface of the wall, as shown in the variation on page
139. With this design, you’re not limited by the width
and depth of a stud cavity, but the cabinet will occupy
a greater amount of floor space.
Using less than two feet of wall space, this built-in cabinet
offers more than enough room for a household’s medicines,
toiletries, and backup bathroom supplies.
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Tools & Materials
Crown
Head casing
shelf
Door
side casing
Mirror
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■ How to Build & Install a Full-Height Medicine Cabinet
1 2
Determine the overall height of the finished cabinet (with Cut one or more exploratory holes in the drywall between the
trim), then subtract the height of the trim assembly above the host studs, then examine the stud cavity to make sure that no
door. Add ¼" to find the height of the cabinet box. Measure up electrical cables, plumbing pipes, or other elements intersect
from the floor and draw a level line at the installed box height the cavity. Cut out the drywall between the studs, up to the
between two wall studs where the cabinet will go. level line.
3 4
Measure between the studs to determine the overall width Cut the two side pieces for the cabinet box to length, 1½"
of the cabinet box. Tip: If the studs aren’t plumb, leave some shorter than the floor-to-top dimension from step 1. Cut the
extra room for adjusting the cabinet when you install it (see top piece, middle shelf, and bottom shelf 1½" shorter than the
step 8, on page 137). overall cabinet width. Cut the adjustable shelves 3⁄16" shorter
than the fixed shelves. Cut the back panel equal to the overall
width of the cabinet and the same length as the sides.
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5 6
Drill holes into the box sides for the Assemble the cabinet box by fastening the sides over the ends of the top and
adjustable shelf pins, using pegboard bottom and middle shelves using glue and 2" screws. Position the bottom shelf so its
with ¼" holes as a drilling guide. Align top face is 4½" from the ends of the sides. Position the top piece flush with the top
the pegboard so that the hole pairs are ends of the sides, and position the middle shelf roughly halfway in between.
evenly spaced across each side piece,
and drill the holes to the depth of the
pin plus the hardboard, using a stop
collar on the bit. Make sure the hole
pairs are matched on both pieces so the
shelves will hang level.
7 8
Fasten the back panel to the assembly with 1" screws. Set the box into place between the wall studs and check
Align the box sides and top with the panel edges as you work it for plumb. Use shims to fill any gaps along the studs and
to ensure the assembly is square. Prime all sides of the box, to adjust for plumb. Fasten the box sides to the studs with
including the back, and then add two top coats of paint to the 2" screws so the front edges of the sides are flush with the
box interior and front edges of the side pieces. surface of the drywall.
(continued)
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9 10
Cut, prime, and install the 1 × 4 side trim and 1 × 6 base trim Fill any voids in the panel edges with wood putty, sand
with 2¼" finish nails, overlapping the sides of the box by ¼". the panel smooth, and prime and paint the panel. Paint the
Add the bead and head trim over the ends of the side trim. cabinet trim, and fill and paint over the screw heads inside
Install the crown molding over the head trim with 1½" finish the cabinet box.
nails, mitering the corners and adding return pieces back to
the wall. Measure the opening created by the trim pieces and
cut the door panel 1⁄8" narrower and shorter than the opening.
11 12
Mount the door to the side trim with three small butt hinges Have the mirror cut to the desired size by a glass dealer.
or a single piano hinge. Mortise-in butt hinges for a flush fit. Secure the mirror to the front of the door panel with a
Install a drawer pull or knob, then add a magnetic door catch recommended adhesive (you can remove the door if you
onto the door and cabinet box side. used butt hinges). If desired, add trim around the edges of the
mirror. Install the adjustable shelves.
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Variation: surface-Mount Cabinet ▸
This surface-mount cabinet is a freestanding unit that you secure to the wall for stability. You can use this design if a
recessed cabinet is impractical or undesirable for your situation. The basic construction steps are similar to those of the
recessed unit:
1. Assemble the cabinet box with
Crown
a fixed top, middle shelf, bottom
shelf, and back panel. If you want a
deeper cabinet and it won’t impede
critical floorspace in the room, you
1×4
can substitute 1 × 6 lumber for the
box sides, top, and shelves.
1×2
2. Add 1 × 2 side trim pieces to the
front of the box, then add a 1 × 4
head trim piece and a 1 × 6 base
trim piece between the side trim.
Cut the door to fit between the
side, head, and base trim pieces.
3. Add the crown molding, then
prime and paint all parts. Hang the
door with hinges secured to the
side trim.
4. Secure the cabinet to a wall stud
with screws driven through the back
panel. Wrap the base of the cabinet
with baseboard trim for a built-in
look. Add quarter-round molding
along the cabinet sides to hide the
edges of the back panel and any
gapping caused by wall contours.
shelf
Mirror
Door
1×6
Base trim
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Custom Laundry Center
M any laundry rooms—or set-aside laundry areas
in larger rooms—lack two vitally important
features: organization and lighting. this laundry center
Tools & Materials ▸
answers both needs in style. this is a self-contained tape measure hammer or
built-in that functions like a room within a room, level pneumatic nailer
adding both storage space and task lighting for what pencil Jigsaw
can otherwise be a disagreeable task. it is built from a square circular saw
base cabinet and butcher block countertop on one side power drill and bits miter saw
of a 24"-wide, 7 ft.-tall stub wall, and a bank of wall powder-actuated eye and ear
cabinets on the other side of the wall. the cabinets nailer protection
are designed to fit above a washer and dryer combo, Work gloves
although you may need to adjust the measurements to
accommodate your particular washer and dryer.
the structure includes a ceiling with light fixtures ceiling, are clad with easy-to-wash tileboard that adds
mounted over both sides, and a switch wired into brightness while contrasting with the maple wood of
the stub wall to control the lights. the walls are built the cabinets. the edges of the center are trimmed
from inexpensive wall sheathing and, along with the with clear maple.
This sharp cabinet configuration not only helps you get your laundry room in order, but it also adds a good deal of style and
practical lighting.
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Cutting List
E
G G
G
G
A
Tileboard
K
F
I
I
J
B
H
D
Tileboard
A
C
(1) 4 × 8 × ½ plywood or osb (wall sheathing) pArT NO. DEsC. sIzE MATErIAL
(1) 4 × 8 × ¾ plywood or osb (ceiling) A 2 Cap/sill plate 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 23¾" 2×4
(3) 4 × 8 sheets tileboard with an 8-ft. inside corner B 3 Stud 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 79" 2×4
strip and panel adhesive
C 1 Full wall 1
⁄2 × 23¾ × 81¾" Sheathing
(3) recessed canister light with trim kit
D 1 Wall cap 3
⁄4 × 5 ⁄2 × 79"
1
Maple 1 × 6
(1) clothes rod (24") with mounting hardware
1 × 2, 1 × 4 and 1 × 6 maple for trim E 1 Ceiling ¾ × 24 × 100"* Sheathing
32"-wide base cabinet F 2 Half wall 1
⁄2 × 23¾ × 43" Sheathing
butcher block countertop for base cabinet G 4 Top trim 3
⁄4 × 5 ⁄2 × cut to fit Maple 1 × 6
1
(2) 30" 2-door uppers
H 1 Base cabinet 341⁄2" h × 36" w Stock cabinet
electrical box, switch, 14/2 romex, switch plate
I 2 Wall cabinets 12 × 30 × 30" Stock cabinets
end panel for upper cabinets (if unfinished)
panel adhesive J 1 Countertop 11⁄2 × 25 × 36 Countertop
drywall or deck screws K 1 Trim ¾ × 1½ × 43" 1×2
nails *can be pieced together from two boards joined
(4) 11/2 × 31/2 × 96 pine above a
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■ How to Build a Laundry Center
1 2
Attach the base plate for the stub wall perpendicular to the After toenailing the studs to the base plate (and facenailing
wall, allowing space between the stub wall and the corner the stud next to the wall if possible), attach the cap plate,
for your base cabinet. Use pressure-treated wood if your making sure the studs are vertical.
laundry is in the basement and use pressure-treated lumber
for the base plate and attach it by driving concrete nails with a
powder-actuated nailer for a concrete floor.
3 4
Run cable and install boxes for the light fixtures. Hire an Install the base cabinet between the stub wall and the
electrician to do this if you are not experienced with home corner, making sure it is level and securely attached to at least
wiring. Note: You may need to apply for a permit and have one wall.
your wiring inspected.
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5 6 stud location
Attach the countertop material (butcher block was used Cut a piece of wall sheathing that’s the same width as the
here). The countertop should be flush against both walls and it stub wall and reaches the same height when placed on the
should overhang the base cabinet slightly. countertop surface. Attach the sheathing to the side of the
countertop area. Insert a couple of furring strips between the
sheathing and the wall to create airspace.
7 8
Clad the stub wall on both sides with wall sheathing, making Cut pieces of tileboard to cover the wall surfaces and attach
sure to cut out accurately for the switch box. The sheathing on them with panel adhesive. Attach inside corner strips cut to fit
the countertop side should rest on the countertop. Slip shims at the inside corners of the countertop area. Rub the tileboard
underneath the wall sheathing on the washer and dryer side aggressively with rags to help seat it.
so it does not contact the floor.
(continued)
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9 10
Mount the wall cabinets so they are level and their tops are It’s easiest to cut the ceiling board, attach tileboard, and
flush with the top of the stub wall and they butt up against the mount light fixtures before you attach the ceiling assembly to
stub wall. Drive screws through the mounting strips and into the stub wall and cabinets. Cut the ceiling board to size and
the wall at stud locations or into ledgers. shape from a piece of sheathing.
11 12
Mount the hardware and box for the light fixture to the Set the ceiling panel over the laundry center and attach it
ceiling panel before you install the ceiling. with nails or screws driven into the top plate of the stub wall
and the cabinet sides.
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13 14
Be sure the power is turned off to the room. Make the wiring Trim out the top of the structure with 1 × 4 hardwood to
connections at the light fixtures and at the switch (inset). conceal the gap beneath the ceiling panel. Miter the outside
Consult an electrician as necessary. and inside corners as you install the trim. If you prefer, you can
use crown molding here.
15 16
Attach the vertical trim boards, butting them up against the Install your washer and dryer (or have your appliance dealer
top trim and keeping the bottom slightly above the floor. Apply install them for you). Make sure to follow local codes for water
a finish and top coat to the trim boards as desired. and drain supply and for venting your dryer.
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Compact Laundry Center
A lthough there may be no scientific evidence
to prove it, we all know that there’s a direct
correlation between the quality of a laundry room
if this sounds all too familiar, you’ll be glad to
know that it doesn’t take much to turn an ordinary
laundry area into an efficient work center. nor does it
space and how much we dread doing the laundry. take a lot of space. the project shown here requires
cramped, cluttered, or poorly arranged rooms slow the only about nine feet of wall area, including where
work and add a general sense of unpleasantness. and the washer and dryer go. and with a few extra feet
things get complicated when you can’t complete the available on a nearby wall, you can add a hideaway
laundry tasks in the laundry room—you have to hang ironing board that folds up into a recessed cabinet
up your sweaters to dry over the bathtub and do all the when not in use.
folding on the kitchen table.
Tools & Materials ▸
Work gloves melamine-laminate polyurethane glue 2¼" finish nails
eye and ear wall cabinets coarse-thread drywall post-formed laminate
protection (30" × 24" and screws (1¼", 2") countertop straight
4-ft. level 36" × 30") melamine-laminate section, (48" long)
power drill and bits 3½" heavy-duty edge tape and countertop end cap kit
circular saw and wood screws stickers ¾" particleboard
straightedge guide ¾" melamine- hanger rod with Wood glue
drywall saw covered mounting brackets ironing board cabinet
plumb bob particleboard lumber (1 × 2, 2 × 2) for recessed wall
stud finder (laminated on deck screws mounting
household iron both sides) (3½", 2½") drop hook (optional)
What every laundry room needs:
dedicated areas for ironing, hanging,
folding, and stacking clothes, plus
convenient spaces for holding point-of-
use supplies and for stored items that you
want to keep clean.
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■ How to Create a Laundry Center
1 2
Mark the cabinet locations onto the wall, including level Assemble the cabinets, if necessary. Position each cabinet
lines to represent the cabinets’ top edges. Standard cabinet with its top edge flush to the level line, drill pilot holes, and
height is 84" above the floor, but make sure the washer door fasten through the back panel and into the wall studs with at
won’t block the hanging shelf. Locate and mark all of the wall least four 3½" heavy-duty wood screws (or install according to
studs behind the cabinet locations. the manufacturer’s directions).
3 4
Cut pieces of ¾" melamine-covered particleboard for the Assemble the shelf with polyurethane glue and 2" coarse-
hanging shelf. Cut the top and bottom pieces equal to the thread drywall screws or particleboard screws. Cover any
cabinet depth × the cabinet width minus 1½". Cut the side exposed front edges and screw heads with melamine-laminate
pieces equal to the cabinet depth × the overall shelf height (as edge tape and cosmetic stickers (inset). When the glue has
desired). Cut the back panel equal to the cabinet depth × the cured, mount the shelf to the bottom cabinet panel with 1¼"
shelf height minus 1½" in both directions. coarse-thread drywall screws driven through pilot holes.
(continued)
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5 6
Mount the hanger rod to the sides of the cabinets using the Mark the layout of the countertop and shelf unit onto the
provided screws. Locate the rod as close as possible to the wall. Draw level lines at 34½" and at the desired height for
front edge of the cabinets (without hindering door operation) the shelf top minus ¾". Draw plumb lines for the end panel at
and as high as you can comfortably reach. 46½ and 47¼" from the side wall and for the shelf support at
227⁄8 and 235⁄8" from the side wall. Also mark all wall studs in
the area.
7 8
Following the layout lines, cut and install 2 × 2 wall cleats Build the end panel and shelf to size at 34½" long × the
for the countertop along the back and side walls. Fasten the countertop depth minus ¾". Cut the shelf at 46½" long × the
cleats to the wall studs with 3½" deck screws. Cut and install same width as the end panel. Add a 2 × 2 cleat flush with the
1 × 2 cleats for the shelf, shelf support, and end panel using top edge of the end panel. Fasten the shelf and end panel to
2½" deck screws or drywall screws. the wall cleats with polyurethane glue and 2¼" finish nails.
Fasten through the end panel and into the shelf edge with
2" screws.
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9 10
Cut the shelf support to fit underneath the shelf. Notch the Prepare the countertop by cutting a stiffener panel from ¾"
back edge to fit around the 1 × 2 wall cleat, then install the particleboard to fit inside the edges on the underside of the
support to the cleat and shelf with glue and 2¼" finish nails. countertop. Fasten the panel with wood glue and 1¼" screws.
If desired, install an end cap kit onto the end opposite the side
wall following the manufacturer’s directions. Set the countertop
in place and secure it to the 2 × 2 cleats with 2" screws.
11 12
Begin the ironing board cabinet installation by locating two Fit the cabinet into the wall opening and secure it to the wall
adjacent wall studs and drawing level lines to mark the top studs using the recommended screws. Tip: Add a drop hook
and bottom of the wall opening. Make sure there’s no wiring or on the inside of the cabinet door for hanging up ironed clothes
plumbing inside the wall cavity, then cut the drywall along the (inset). The hook drops down against the door when not in use.
stud edges and the level lines using a drywall saw.
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Custom Double Vanity Cabinet
Y ou can purchase vanity tops with a matching stock
vanity cabinet, or you can put your own design
stamp on the bathroom by building a custom vanity
of the finished cabinet is contemporary and clean,
making it suitable to a wide range of bathroom decors.
the unit is wall mounted, but two legs at the front of
cabinet. crafting a your own vanity cabinet is a great the cabinet provide stability and create the appearance
way to seamlessly integrate the unit into the overall of a standalone piece of furniture.
bathroom design, especially when you haven’t been all panels are cut with the grain running
able to find the cabinet of your dreams at retail. horizontally. the doors offer easy access to the
the custom double cabinet in this project was abundant storage space inside the cabinet, and the
designed to support a stock double-bowl vanity. the bottom drawer is operable while the top is a false
cabinet is built with ½", 9-ply baltic birch plywood front. the project requires moderate woodworking
and solid birch framing. this particular plywood is a skills and precise measurements. but with a little
favorite of cabinetmakers because of its beautiful grain effort, you’ll wind up with gorgeous vanity cabinetry
structure and appealing edge appearance. the look that is uniquely your own.
This custom-made cabinet is built using Baltic birch plywood for a clean, contemporary feel. Because it is wall-hung, it feels
open and light, but the front legs guarantee that it is stable.
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Tools & Materials & Cutting List ▸
circular saw KEy NO. pArT sIzE MATErIAL
router A 2 Door 1
⁄2 × 23 ⁄4 × 19"
3
Baltic birch
drill B 2 Drawer fronts 1
⁄2 × 12 × 9 ⁄4"
3
Baltic birch
door pulls C 2 End Panels 1
⁄2 × 12 × 20" Baltic birch
pocket jig
D 1 Bottom panel 1
⁄2 × 19 × 59" Baltic birch
2" flathead wood
screws E 2 Top frame rail 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄2 × 59"
1
Birch
3⁄8" × 3½" lag screws F 3 Top frame stile 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄2 × 18"
1
Birch
with washers G 2 Cabinet divider 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄2 × 18 ⁄4"
1 3
Birch
½" baltic birch H 1 Back spreader 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄2 × 58 ⁄2"
1 1
Birch
plywood
I 1 Wall cleat 1 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 59"
1 1
2×4
½" plywood
self-closing cup J 1 Drawer bottom 1
⁄2 × 11 × 18" Plywood
hinges K 2 Drawer end 1
⁄2 × 11 × 6" Plywood
2 self-leveling 10" L 2 Drawer side 1
⁄2 × 17 × 6" Plywood
furniture legs
bottom-mount drawer HArDWArE
slide
4 Self closing cup hinges for 1⁄2" stock
2×4
1½" finish nails Bottom mount drawer slide (16")
no. 8 × ¾" panhead 2 10" × 2"-dia. brushed steel adjustable legs
screws 4 Brushed steel door pulls
E I
F
F
E
C
G G
C
H
A A
D
B K
L
B J
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Baltic Birch ▸
Baltic birch is considered the premier
cabinetry plywood because of its
extremely attractive and consistent
surface patterns, and its uniform edge
appearance that can eliminate the need
for additional edge treatments such as
wood veneer tape. This type of plywood
features voidless plies, so that the layers
have no visual gaps along the edges.
The facing takes stain well, but most
people choose to use a clear finish such
as polyurethane to allow the beauty of
the wood to come through. If you’re
determining the measurements for your
own vanity cabinet, be aware that Baltic
birch plywood usually comes in 5 × 5-ft.
sheets, as opposed to the standard
4 × 8-ft. sheets.
■ How to Build a Custom Vanity Cabinet
1 2
Cut the pieces for the top frame from solid ½" birch—two Cut the side and bottom panels, and door and drawer fronts,
59" rails and three 18" stiles. Use a pocket jig to drill two from a single sheet of Baltic birch plywood. Use a circular
pocket holes at each end of the stiles, and then glue and screw saw equipped with a sharp, thin-kerf ripping blade. Use a
them to the rails with pocket screws. straightedge guide and saw the panels with the good side
facing down.
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3 4
Cut rabbets for the bottom panel in the bottom inside edges Assemble the cabinet case by gluing and clamping the end
of the both side panels. Use a router fitted with a ½" piloted panels to the bottom panel. Glue and clamp the top frame into
rabbeting bit, set to ¼" depth. Sand as necessary to clean and position between the tops of the end panels. Screw the end
smooth the rabbets. panels into the top frame with two 2" wood screws on either
side. Secure the bottom panel in place with finishing nails
through end panels into the bottom panel.
5 6
Cut and position solid birch dividers between the bottom Attach legs to the bottom of the cabinet case, inset
panel and top frame. Measure to ensure the dividers are in about 2" from front corners. Secure the legs according to
correct position, check for level, then screw the bottom panel manufacturer’s directions. The 10" metal legs here were
and top frame to the dividers. Add a central divider between screwed onto a bolt projecting through a hole in the bottom
the vertical dividers to create a visual backing for the gap panel. The bolt is attached to a mounting plate screwed to the
between the drawer fronts. bottom of the bottom panel.
(continued)
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7 8
Position the cabinet in place, check for level, and measure Position the cabinet so that the top frame rests on the wall
from the floor to the bottom edge of the top frame. Mark cleat. Check level and shim as necessary, then nail finish nails
that line and screw a 2 × 4 cleat to wall with 3½" lag screws, through the end panels into the ends of the wall cleat. Adjust
keeping the top of the cleat aligned with the mark. the front feet according to manufacturer’s directions so that
the cabinet is level.
9 10
Cut the spreader for the rear of the cabinet and place it on Cut the sides, back, and bottom panels for the drawer box.
top of bottom panel, between the two side panels. Nail the Glue and clamp the pieces together, and edge nail them
spreader in place with finish nails, nailed through the end together with brads to reinforce the drawer box. Attach slides
panels into the ends of the spreader. to the bottom of the drawer and the bottom of the cabinet in
the drawer opening.
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11 12
Sand the edges of the drawer and door fronts, working from Mount the cabinet doors using adjustable cup hinges. Check
about 100 grit down to 180 grit. Note: If you aren’t satisfied that the doors are mounted square and plumb, adjusting the
with the look of the drawer and door edges, use filler before hinges as necessary.
sanding to ensure they are absolutely smooth, or cover the
edges with wood veneer tape prior to finishing the cabinet.
13 14
Clamp the drawer front into place on the divider. Drill Sink nailheads and cover exposed nail and screwheads with
pilot holes and attach the drawer front with four No. 8 × ¾" stainable wood putty. Sand the putty smooth and apply your
panhead screws. Check that the drawer slides in and out freely. finish of choice. We finished the cabinet with a brush-on stain,
Screw 1 × cleats for the top drawer (false) front onto the inside but use clear polyurethane if you prefer the natural look of the
faces of dividers. Screw through the cleats into the back of the birch. Mark positions of drawer pulls, drill mounting holes, and
drawer front to secure it in place. install pulls.
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Double-Bowl Vanity Top
S ide-by-side double sinks are a wonderful addition
to bathrooms large enough to accommodate the
extra fixture. often called “his-and-her” sinks, double
models, require new supply and drains. but a double
sink vanity like the one shown here can be added
simply by using dual-use hardware that splits the
sinks can be indispensable in a busy bathroom serving existing supply and drain lines.
a large household, or for a couple whose schedules put
them in the master bath at the same time each day.
the first issue to consider in adding a double sink
is available space. You need to maintain the minimum Tools & Materials ▸
required space around the sink, including 30 inches
of clear space in front of the sink (but no less than 21 carpenter’s level silicone caulk
inches) and 30 inches from the center of one sink to screwdrivers dual outlet valves
the center of the other. any sink or vanity edge should power drill braided steel supply
be at least 4 inches from a side wall, and should not basin wrench lines
impede door swing. stud finder p-trap
You’ll also want to decide how much plumbing adjustable wrench pVc connections
modification you’re willing to do. side-by-side hacksaw plumber’s putty
standalone sinks, such as pedestals or wall-mounted
A double-bowl vanity is a useful fixture for accommodating multiple users during rush hour in your bathroom. Most home centers
stock a selection of double-bowl options, but for the best variety allow enough time for a custom order (usually 1 to 6 weeks).
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■ Double Drains
Double-bowl vanities are plumbed very similar to double-bowl kitchen sinks. In most cases, the drain tailpieces are connected
beneath one of the tailpieces at a continuous waste T. The drain line from the second bowl must slope downward toward the T.
From the T, the drain should have a trap (usually a P-trap) that connects to the trap arm coming out of the wall.
■ Drain in Floor
Waste-T
Waste-T
Bottom
Top of s-trap Top of s-trap
Outlet
pipe
Floor drain stubout
Drain
If your drain stubout comes up out of the floor instead of Attach the other half of the S-trap to the stubout with a slip
the wall, you’ll need an S-trap to tie into it instead of a P-trap. fitting. This should result in the new fitting facing downward.
Attach one half of the S-trap to the threaded bottom of the Join the halves of the S-trap together with a slip nut, trimming
waste-T. the unthreaded end if necessary.
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■ How to Install a Double Sink and Vanity
1 2
Shut off the supply valves located under the sink. Disconnect Remove the existing countertop and vanity. Turn off the
and remove the supply lines connecting the faucet to the water supply at the main shut-off valve. Drain remaining water
valves. Loosen the P-trap nuts at both ends and remove the by opening the faucet at the lowest point in the house. Use a
P-trap. hacksaw to remove the existing undersink shut-off valves.
3 4
Slide the new dual-outlet valve onto Secure the new vanity in place by screwing it to the wall. Lay a bead of caulk along
the hot water supply line, pass the nut the underside and back edge of the countertop, where it will contact the vanity and
and compression washer over the pipe, wall. Set the countertop in place and check it for level. If your sinks are not integral,
and tighten with a wrench. Install the install them according to the type of sink you’re using.
dual-outlet valve on the cold water
supply line in the same way.
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5 6 7
Seat the faucets for the double Connect a new PVC P-trap to the Connect the linkage for the pop-up
sinks as you would for a single sink, undersink drain pipe, and attach a drain stopper. Connect the braided
by applying a bead of putty on the T-connector to the trap. Extend PVC steel cold water supply lines to the
underside of the bases (unless they connections to the drain assemblies of appropriate faucet tailpieces. Once
are to be used with gaskets instead both sinks. the lines are secure, repeat for the
of putty). Secure them in place by hot water supply lines. Check that all
tightening the locking nuts on the connections are tightened securely.
underside of the faucets.
8 Leak Finder ▸
To quickly and easily find an undersink leak, lay bright
white pieces of paper, or paper towels, under the
pipes and drain connections. Open the water supply
Turn on the main water supply and then turn on the water
valves and run water in the sinks. It should be clear
supply to the faucets. Remove the faucet aerators and
run water in the sinks to check the supply lines and drain exactly where the water dripped from by the location
connections for leaks. Tighten the connections if you find any, of any drips on the paper.
and replace the aerators.
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Countertops
C hoosing countertops for your kitchen, bathroom,
or even a workspace like a laundry room is an
exercise in sifting through an embarrassment of riches.
The number of countertop materials continues to
grow, and the variations in appearance are almost too
many to count.
So finding the right countertops for your space
and life is, like selecting cabinets, a matter of
balancing the look you prefer, the performance you
need, and the cost you can afford.
The best countertops hold up to day-to-day abuse
without scarring, chipping, or otherwise degrading.
This may be less of concern if you’re adding a
countertop to a vanity in a guest bathroom, and will
be top of mind if you’re seeking out new countertops
for a busy kitchen. Solid-surface materials, natural
stone, and some recycled countertop materials will
all provide durable surfaces that will take a lot of
punishment without looking any worse for the wear.
Of course, these materials all vary widely in cost,
which may be the deciding factor. There’s no denying
the unmatched beauty of natural marble or granite,
but they’ll set you back a pretty penny if you’re looking
to cover all the base cabinets in a large kitchen.
Fortunately, you can find the look of those stones
mimicked in engineered and laminate countertops for
significantly less cost.
Lastly, you’ll also need to decide if you want to
install your own countertops. Some materials, such
as solid-surface quartz countertops, should ideally be
installed by qualified professionals, while others—
such as post-form or tile counters—can easily be
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Countertop Basics
F inding the perfect countertop is a matter of honing
down all the possibilities to determine the one that
best meets your needs and tastes. It all boils down
to the look you want, how durable the surface needs
to be, and your budget. Start with the amount you’re
willing to spend because it will likely narrow your
choices quite a bit.
Three factors will affect the final cost of any
countertop: the actual cost of the material, the cost
of fabrication, and any special features. The most
expensive countertops are natural stone, reflecting
how difficult it is to quarry and process the material.
The look is considered the epitome of luxury, which is
why the surface appearances of stones from marble to
slate are reproduced in a variety of other countertops,
from engineered stone to laminates.
Engineered stone, quartz, and solid-surface
countertops are the next step down in terms of cost.
They are handsome, durable surfaces known for
sophisticated looks. But like stone, most of these
require professional installation—which means adding
the cost of fabrication to the final bill.
Wood, concrete, recycled materials, and metal A recycled glass countertop can be a sophisticated look in
the right kitchen, and offers a durable, long-lasting countertop
countertops or cheaper still, and in most cases you
surface at a reasonable price. You will, however, need to have
can choose to do the installation yourself, saving quite the countertop professionally installed.
a bit on the final cost of the countertop. Laminates
are the least expensive option and fairly simple for the
home DIYer to install. larger area. For instance, it has become a trend to
But even if you’re considering more expensive use marble or granite on a centerpiece island, with
options, you can save a little money by forgoing quartz or laminate on the other countertops in the
features like ogee or other profiled edges and kitchen. Lastly, if you’re having professionals fabricate
special fixtures that require extensive countertop and install your countertop, insist that they do the
modification. Another cost-saving strategy is to use original measurements as well—that way any errors
premium surfaces on an island or other small area of in fabrication come off their bottom line, rather than
a larger room, using a less-expensive option over the adding to your bill.
sink story ▸
Whether you’re choosing kitchen counters or a new top sink, you won’t be able to use a post-form counter
for your bathroom vanities, chances are good that the because the edges need to be waterproof. Likewise, the
countertop will need to be paired with a sink. The type of counter may influence sink selection. Some solid-
sink you already own or want to purchase may affect surface materials can be fabricated with integrated sinks
your choice of countertop. In general, self-rimming sinks and even integrated backsplashes. The point is,
will work with just about any countertop. But other sinks countertop selection and choosing a sink go hand in
will only work with certain types of counters. For glove, and should be done at the same time to head off
instance, if you’re determined to use an undermount potential problems.
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■ Design Considerations
As much as budget will play a part in the countertop Patterns are nearly as varied. The swirls of marble
material you choose, you’ll still have a diversity of and flecks of granite are reproduced in laminate
looks to choose from. You’ll be selecting from among and solid-surface countertops, and you’ll also find
different colors, patterns, and even textures. striations, repetitive patterns, and more. Textural
Colors, in particular, are a growing piece of the options are naturally more limited by practicality.
puzzle. There has never been a bigger selection of Although the vast majority of countertops are still
countertop colors available. You can certainly lean smooth, glossy surfaces, you can find matte and even
toward more traditional and “safe” grays, blacks, pebbled textures if you’re so inclined.
whites, and off-whites. You’ll find those hues in every Where countertops are concerned, design cannot
material offered. But you also find a full palette of other be separated from function. If you are an avid cook,
colors, in shades from subtle to bold. Recycled glass it may make sense to spend a bit more on a durable
countertops include dynamic options that allow you to and heat-resistant counter such as granite, and
integrate flecks of royal blue or shiny fire-engine red avoid those prone to showing wear and tear, such
into your kitchen design. Recycled paper countertops as traditional butcher block or ceramic tile. Natural
are offered in dusky colors that can lend a bit of drama stone countertops are going to be some of the most
to an otherwise understated room. Solid surface and durable, but many require regular maintenance, such
laminate manufacturers now offer a head-spinning as a yearly resealing. Whenever you’re considering
selection of colors that seem to be nearly limitless— these surfaces, inquire about upkeep. Solid-surface
with the potential to custom order even more unusual counters, including quartz, engineered stone, and
colors. A few products, such as the enameled volcanic surfaces such as Corian®, are all durable, tolerate hot
rock countertop Pyrolave, provide deep, vibrant pulse- pans and resist scratching well.
quickening blues, reds, and yellows that reward the
daring homeowner with a one-of-a-kind look.
The elegant countertops in this modest kitchen are just There are ways to save money even on high-end
one of the many faces of the solid-surface material Corian®, a countertops. Although these counters appear to be
fairly inexpensive option that must be professionally installed, solid granite, they are actually granite shells clad over a
but that is incredibly durable. subsurface—considerably less expensive than solid granite
counters, but no less durable.
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■ Countertop Materials
Choose a countertop material that fits your budget, • Laminate. Although laminate countertops are
but also make your selection based on how you’ll use still manufactured in the same way—layers
the surface and the look that appeals to you. of resin-soaked papers and plastic are bonded
together under extreme pressure to form a
• Natural stone. This broad category includes waterproof material—today’s laminate countertops
expensive luxury surfaces that can transform a come in an incredible range of looks featuring
kitchen into a showcase. These are some of the different colors, patterns, and even textures. And
priciest countertop options, but any natural stone though you’ll still have to contend with seams,
surfaces are likely to last the life of the house and they are subtler than ever before. Some laminate
just as unlikely to ever go out of style. Different manufacturers even offer countertops with color
quarry stones can display remarkably different that runs completely through the surface. These
appearances. Marble is the most expensive natural are pricier versions; the greater selection is
stone and truly distinctive with its enticing veining represented by the “post-form” counters widely
and rich whites, grays, blacks, and even reds and available at home centers in various lengths
greens. Granite is the most popular natural stone and styles. The surfaces are, in any case, more
both for its attractive flecks and colorations, and susceptible to heat damage and scratching than
for the naturally wear-and-tear-resistant surface other countertop options.
(it’s the hardest of countertop stones). Both marble
and granite should be resealed once a year or more • Solid-surface. Fabricated from a mixture of
to prevent staining and discoloration. Soapstone organic (usually stone chips) and inorganic
has been used in kitchens for centuries; it’s easy to additives, solid-surface countertops such as
work with and resists stains and other damage and Corian® are made and installed without seam
can be oiled to an attractive finish. Slate is durable, lines, and colored throughout so that scratches
hard, and dense. Scratches can be rubbed out and can be sanded or buffed out. They shouldn’t be
the surface does not need to be sealed. Slate also subjected to hot plates or used as cutting boards,
comes in appealing shades of green, purple, gray, but are otherwise sturdy and durable. Solid-
and black, and even the rare red. surface materials are available in an amazing
Marble is a timeless choice for any kitchen, one that is the height of style and nearly indestructible.
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Waterproof, durable, and easy to install, a countertop like this Corian® double sink vanity counter is also attractive and unique.
range of colors and patterns, and custom features
such as drain boards and integral sinks can be
fabricated into the countertop.
• Recycled paper. The newest type of countertops
are made from recycled paper mixed with organic
binders to create a solid surface that is the same
color throughout. These are installed with a
process similar to that used for other solid-surface
countertops, and are considered a “green” option.
The surface is waterproof, heat resistant, and
scratch resistant. The cost is also on par with
other solid-surface countertops, and the look
is unusual and unique. The countertops can
A recycled paper countertop like this can be crafted with
be fabricated with special edge treatments and built-in features like the drain board shown here.
features such as drain boards.
• Concrete. This industrial material makes for as part of the fabrication process. Any concrete
a very durable countertop that is less expensive countertop needs to be periodically resealed
than natural stone and can be crafted to suit to prevent staining, and acidic foods can etch
unusual shapes and layouts. Concrete can be the surface. The countertop has to be carefully
dyed or stained just about any color you desire installed and correctly supported or any long span
and features such as drain boards can be added will be prone to cracking.
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Ceramic tiles are a traditional choice for low-cost Stainless-steel countertops are a visually clean and
countertops that look handsome and are easy for the DIYer striking look that blends well in a cook's kitchen full of
to install. stainless-steel appliances.
• Tiles. The most common type of tile countertop can be finished light or dark, and sealed to inhibit
is ceramic, although natural stone and even the materials natural inclination to swell in the
metal tiles remain options in the middle of the presence of moisture. Most wood countertops
price range. Stone tiles are a way to have the should not be used for cutting or as a resting place
look of solid stone at far less cost—especially for hot pans, both of which can mar the surface.
if you’re willing and able to install the tiles. In
any case, you’ll always use floor rather than wall • Metals. Stainless steel brings to mind
tiles because wall tiles won’t stand up to the professional kitchens, and zinc is more unusual
abuse most counters endure. The drawbacks and distinctive metal countertop choice that
to tile countertops are the grout lines that will requires a good bit of upkeep. Stainless steel
inevitably get stained, and the fact that most is the countertop of choice in restaurants, and
tiles are very hard, which can lead to broken the reasons professionals like stainless steel is
glassware and dinnerware. that it doesn’t stain and can handle the hottest
pot you can throw at it. The metal is wrapped
• Wood. Butcher block is the most common wood around and bonded to a substrate such as plywood
countertop, made from thin slats of wood glued during fabrication and installation—something
face to face. Butcher block countertops are easy that should be done by a professional. The one
to install, and other wood styles are not much downside to this material—in addition to it being
harder. Today, you’ll find all kind of hardwood physically and visually cold—is that it shows
and softwood countertops, each with it’s own fingerprints and watermarks. You can opt for matte
particular graining and look. Wood countertops or satin surfaces if this is a big concern.
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• Glass. Recycled glass is a green countertop • Quartz. Quartz countertops resemble solid-
material offered in an astounding number of surface countertops, but contain a higher
colors and surface appearances. The surface can percentage of mineral matter versus binders.
look radically different, depending on the size and Because all quartz surfaces are manufactured
color of the glass fragments use, and the finished using essentially the same equipment and
surface is heat and scratch resist and as durable as formulas, any differences between products is
stone surfaces. Most of these countertops require due to the type of quartz used. A quartz surface
professional installation and select carefully—bold can’t be scratched, is nonporous, is nonstaining,
colors may grow old long before the counter wears and doesn’t need to be sealed. The surface can
out. You can also have a cast-glass countertop also withstand hot pots, and is hard as granite.
made to your specifications, but be sure you love It carries much of the attraction of granite and
the material and the look; they are pricey and marble, at a lower price.
difficult to install or remove.
Recycled glass countertops come in a myriad of color blends, A quartz countertop captures much of the beauty and
and single-color looks. All are unique, unusual and stunning. durability of a stone countertop at a lower price.
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Post-form Countertops
P ost-form laminate countertops are available in
stock and custom colors. Pre-mitered sections
are available for two- or three-piece countertops that
continue around corners. If the countertop has an
exposed end, you will need an endcap kit that contains
a pre-shaped strip of matching laminate. Post-form
countertops have either a waterfall edge or a no-drip
edge. Stock colors are typically available in 4-, 6-, 8-,
10-, and 12-foot straight lengths, and 6- and 8-foot
mitered lengths.
Tools & Materials ▸
tape measure belt sander
Framing square Power drill and spade bit
Pencil cordless screwdriver
Straightedge Post-form countertop
c-clamps Wood shims
hammer take-up bolts
level drywall screws Post-form countertops are among the easiest and cheapest
caulking gun Wire brads to install. They are a good choice for beginning DIYers, and the
Jigsaw endcap laminate number of pattern and color options continues to grow.
compass Silicone caulk
adjustable wrench Wood glue
The following tools and
C materials will be used in this
D project: wood shims (A); take-
B up bolts for drawing miters
together (B); household iron
(C); endcap laminate to match
A
countertop (D); endcap battens
(E); file (F); adjustable wrench
(G); buildup blocks (H); compass
(I); fasteners (J); silicone caulk
K E and sealer (K).
E
J
F
I
G
H
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■ How to Install a Post-form Countertop
Option: Use a jigsaw fitted with
1 a downstroke blade to cut post-
form. If you are unable to locate
a downstroke blade, you can try
applying tape over the cutting
lines, but you are still likely
to get tear-out from a normal
upstroke jigsaw blade.
2 3
Use a framing square to mark a cutting line on the bottom Attach the battens from the endcap kit to the edge of the
surface of the countertop. Cut off the countertop with a jigsaw countertop using carpenter’s glue and small brads. Sand out
using a clamped straightedge as a guide. any unevenness with a belt sander.
(continued)
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4 5
Hold the endcap laminate against the end, slightly Position the countertop on the base cabinets. Make sure
overlapping the edges. Activate the adhesive by pressing an the front edge of the countertop is parallel to the cabinet faces.
iron set on medium heat against the endcap. Cool with a wet Check the countertop for level. Make sure that drawers and
cloth, then file the endcap laminate flush with the edges of doors open and close freely. If needed, adjust the countertop
the countertop. with shims.
6 7
Because walls are usually uneven, use a compass to trace Remove the countertop. Use a belt sander to grind the
the wall outline onto the backsplash. Set the compass arms backsplash to the scribe line.
to match the widest gap, then move the compass along
the length of the wall to transfer the outline to the top of
the backsplash. Apply painter’s tape to the top edge of the
backsplash, following the scribed line (inset).
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8 9 10
Mark the cutout for the self-rimming Drill a starter hole just inside the Apply a bead of silicone caulk to
sink. Position the sink upside down on cutting line. Make sink cutouts with a the edges of the mitered countertop
the countertop and trace its outline. jigsaw. Support the cutout area from sections. Force the countertop pieces
Remove the sink and draw a cutting line below so that the falling cutout does not tightly together.
5
⁄8" inside the sink outline. damage the cabinet.
11 12
From underneath the countertop, install and tighten miter Seal the seam between the backsplash and the wall with
take-up bolts. Position the countertop tightly against the wall silicone caulk. Smooth the bead with a wet fingertip. Wipe
and fasten it to the cabinets by driving wallboard screws up away excess caulk.
through the corner brackets and into the countertop (inset).
Screws should be long enough to provide maximum holding
power, but not long enough to puncture the laminate surface.
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Butcher Block Countertops
B utcher block slabs come in a variety of woods
or—since they are made up of small pieces of
wood glued together—a combination of different
tools & Materials ▸
woods. They’re available most commonly in maple Circular saw with Wood screws with
or oak in end grain, which is composed of vertical cutting guide fender washers
pieces of wood, or edge grain and face grain, made Carpenter’s square Jigsaw with
up of long strips of wood. Making butcher block can Drill and bits downstroke bit
be accomplished as an advanced DIY project, but Bolt connector Brush and finish
it’s often more cost-effective (and always faster) to hardware material
purchase pieces in stock sizes and cut them down to fit Caulk gun and Tape
your kitchen. Because butcher block is ideal for food silicone adhesive Connector fittings
prep areas but can be impractical near a sink or stove, Clamps Forstner bit
another option is to install a small section of butcher Sander Silicone adhesive
block in combination with other countertop materials. Varnish Faucet and sink
Router with piloted
roundover bit
Butcher block countertops
enjoy continued popularity
because of their natural
beauty and warm wood tones.
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tip ▸
Butcher block sold by the foot for countertop ranges durable, knife-friendly cutting surface. For economy, many
from 11⁄2" to 3" thick, although some end-grain products, of today’s butcher block sections are edge-glued with
used mostly for chopping blocks, can be up to 5" thick. exposed edge grain or face grain.
For residential kitchens, the 11⁄2"-thick material is the
most available and most affordable choice. Stock length
varies, but 6' and 12' slabs are common. You can also
order the material with sink cutouts completed. Pre-made
countertop is sold in the standard 25" depth, but wider
versions (30" and 36") for islands are not difficult to find.
Butcher block countertop material comes pre-sealed, but
a finish of varnish or oil, such as mineral or tung oil, is
recommended. Seal cut wood around sink cutouts and on
trimmed edges to keep it watertight.
A self-rimming sink is the easiest type to mount in a
butcher block countertop, but undermount types can look
stunning (just make sure to get a perfect seal on the end
grain around the sink cutout).
End grain vs. face grain: Traditionally, butcher block
countertop surfaces were made with square sections 25"
of wood (often maple) oriented with their end grain
1 1⁄ 2"
facing upward. This orientation creates a better, more
Typical countertop material is 11⁄2" wide and 25" deep,
available in a number of lengths from 4' to 12' long.
end grain
Face grain
Butcher block that’s constructed with the end
grain oriented up is the most desirable, but it is
relatively hard to find and fairly expensive. Material
with the face grain or edge grain facing up is more
common and more affordable.
edge grain
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■ How to Build a Butcher Block Countertop
1 2
sink
location
Dishwasher
Before beginning installation, allow the butcher block to Measure your countertop area, adding 1" to the base
acclimate to your home’s moisture level for a couple of days. cabinet depth to allow for overhang. Using a circular saw, cut
Wood contracts and expands with moisture and humidity, so it the piece to size if needed. Butcher block with pre-cut miter
may have warped or expanded during transport. Place it level corners and cutouts for kitchens is available, but if you’re
on the cabinet tops and let it sit until it’s settled. cutting the piece yourself, be sure to apply finish to each new
raw edge.
3 4 5
point 3
point 2
point 1
Butcher block should be attached Drill pilot holes for screws at drilling Drill corresponding holes in the
using wood screws that allow for some points. Stick tape to the bit 1" from the cabinet base that are slotted or at least
movement. Mark three points in a line on point to create a depth stop. 3
⁄8" larger than the screws you are using.
the underside of the countertop, spacing When driven with a washer under the
rows of drilling points at 12-inch intervals. screw head, screws will be able to move
slightly with the wood.
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6 35mm Forstner bit
7
Bolt connectors
Bolt driver bit
Tip: In most cases butcher block countertops are not mitered Make butt joints between countertop sections. Lay the two
at the corners as some other countertop types are. Instead, sections of countertop to be joined upside down on a flat work
they are butted at the corners. You also may need to join surface in their correct orientation. Mark drilling points for the
two in-line pieces with a butt joint. In both instances, use connector holes. Drill the holes with a Forstner bit.
connector fittings.
8 9
With the countertop sections roughly in position on the From below, insert the connector bolt so the two heads
cabinets and flipped right-side up, apply a bead of silicone are flat in the holes and then tighten the bolt with the driver
adhesive near the top of one mating edge. bit (supplied with bolt hardware) to draw the two sections of
countertop together. Do not overtighten.
(continued)
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10 11
Clamp a piece of scrap wood to the end of the countertop Pull the countertop section away from the wall a few inches
so the tops are flush. The scrap wood prevents the router and make a roundover cut along the front edges with a piloted
bit from rounding over the corner when the edge of the roundover bit.
countertop is profiled.
12 13
Attach the countertop to the cabinet mounting strips by If installing a sink in your countertop, start by outlining the
driving screws up through the cabinet strips and into the sink in the correct position as recommended in the installation
countertop. The screws should be 1⁄4" shorter than the distance material from the sink manufacturer. Mount a downstroke
from the bottom of the mounting strips to the top of the blade into the jigsaw (inset), and drill a starter hole just inside
countertop. Use 1" fender washers with the screws and snug the sink outline. Make the cutout, taking care to stay just
them up, but do not overtighten. Because of the counterbores inside the cutting line. If you are installing an undermount sink,
and the washers, the countertop will be able to move slightly smooth the cuts up to the line with a power sander.
as it expands and contracts.
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14
Variation: If you’re installing an undermount sink, mark a Seal the edges of the sink opening with a varnish as
centerpoint for drilling a hole to accommodate the faucet body instructed by the butcher block manufacturer, or by coating it
following the recommendations of the faucet manufacturer. A generously with pure mineral oil or tung oil for a natural finish.
13⁄8"-dia. hole is fairly standard. Let sit for 15 minutes then wipe off the excess with a clean,
lint-free cloth. Let it dry for 48 hours. Repeat six times, letting it
dry thoroughly between coats.
15 16
Add the backsplash of your choice and caulk between the Install the faucet and sink and make the water supply and
new countertop and the backsplash area with silicone caulk. drain hookups.
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Laminate Countertops
B uilding your own custom laminate countertop
using sheets of plastic laminate and particleboard
offers two advantages: the countertop you wind up will
tools & Materials ▸
be less expensive than a custom-ordered countertop, Tape measure Router (with bevel
and it may allow you more options in terms of colors Framing square cutting bit)
and edge treatments. A countertop made with Straightedge ½" scrap wood
laminates also can be tailored to fit any space, unlike Scoring tool 1⁄4" plywood
pre-made countertop material that is a standard width Paint roller 1 × 4 lumber
(usually 25"). Bar clamps 3⁄4" particleboard
Laminate is commonly sold in 8-ft. or 12-ft. lengths Caulk gun Sheet laminate
that are about 1⁄20" thick. The lengths range from 30" J-roller Contact cement
strips to 48" sheets. The 30" strips are sized specifically Miter saw (as Wood glue
for countertops, allowing for a 25"-wide countertop, a needed) 1⁄4" drywall screws
1½"-wide front edge strip, and a short backsplash. Compass 2" wallboard screws
The plastic laminate is bonded to the particle-board utility knife Mineral spirits
or MDF substrate with contact cement, though most Aviator snips Wood filler
professional installers use products that are available Circular saw Finishing materials
only to the trades. Water-based contact cement is Belt sander Laminate
nonflammable and nontoxic, but solvent-based contact Silicone caulk
cement, which requires a respirator and is highly
flammable, creates a much stronger, more durable bond.
Fabricating your own
custom countertop from
particleboard and plastic
laminate is not exactly
an easy DIY project, but
it gives you unlimited
options, and the results can
be very satisfying.
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tips for Working with Laminate ▸
A B
e r
C D
Add 1-inch overhang
Measure along the tops of the base cabinets to determine the size of the countertop. If the wall corners are not square,
use a framing square to establish a reference line (R) near the middle of the base cabinets, perpendicular to the front
of the cabinets. Take four measurements (A, B, C, D) from the reference line to the cabinet ends. Allow for overhangs by
adding 1" to the length for each exposed end, and 1" to the width (E).
Backsplash substrate
Countertop substrate
Buildup substrate
Lay out cutting lines on the particleboard so you can rip-cut the substrate and buildup strips to size using a framing
square to establish a reference line. Cut the core to size using a circular saw with a clamped straightedge as a guide. Cut
4" strips of particleboard for the backsplash and for joint support where sections of countertop core are butted together.
Cut 3" strips for the edge buildups.
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■ How to Build a Laminate Countertop
1 2
Join the countertop substrate pieces on the bottom side. Attach 3"-wide edge build-up strips to the bottom of the
Attach a 4" particleboard joint support across the seam using countertop, using 11⁄4" wallboard screws. Fill any gaps on the
carpenter’s glue and 11⁄4" wallboard screws. outside edges with latex wood patch, and then sand the edges
with a belt sander.
3 4
To determine the size of the laminate top, measure the Cut the laminate by scoring and then breaking it. Draw a
countertop substrate. Laminate seams should not overlap the cutting line, and then etch along the line with a utility knife
substrate. Add 1⁄2" trimming margin to both the length and or other sharp cutting tool. Use a straightedge as a guide.
width of each piece. Measure the laminate needed for face Making two passes with the scoring tool will help the laminate
and edges of backsplash and for exposed edges of countertop to break cleanly.
substrate. Add 1⁄2" to each measurement.
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5
Bend the laminate toward the scored line until the sheet Option: Some laminate installers prefer to cut laminate
breaks cleanly. For better control on narrow pieces, clamp a with special snips that resemble aviator snips. Available from
straightedge along the scored line before bending the laminate. laminate suppliers, the snips are faster than scoring and
Wear gloves to avoid being cut by the sharp edges. snapping, and they are less likely to cause cracks or tears in
the material. You’ll still need to square the cut edges with a
trimmer or router.
6 7
Create tight seams with plastic laminate by using a router Apply laminate to the sides of the countertop first. Using a
and a straight bit to trim the edges that will butt together. paint roller, apply two coats of contact cement to the edge
Measure from the cutting edge of the bit to the edge of the of the countertop and one coat to the back of the laminate. Let
router baseplate (A). Place the laminate on scrap wood and the cement dry according to manufacturer’s directions. Position
align the edges. To guide the router, clamp a straightedge on the laminate carefully, and then press against the edge of the
the laminate at distance A plus 1⁄4", parallel to the laminate countertop. Bond the laminate to the countertop with a J-roller.
edge. Trim the laminate. (continued)
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8 9
Use a router and a flush-cutting bit to trim the edge strip Test-fit the laminate top on the countertop substrate. Check
flush with top and bottom surfaces of the countertop that the laminate overhangs all the edges. At seam locations,
substrate. At edges where the router cannot reach, trim the draw a reference line on the core where the laminate edges
excess laminate with a file. Apply the laminate to the remaining will butt together. Remove the laminate. Make sure all the
edges, and trim with the router. surfaces are free of dust, and then apply one coat of contact
cement to the back of the laminate and two coats to the
substrate. Place spacers made of 1⁄2"-thick scrap wood at 6"
intervals across the countertop core. Because contact cement
bonds instantly, spacers allow the laminate to be positioned
accurately over the core without bonding. Align the laminate
with the seam reference line. Beginning at one end, remove
the spacers and press the laminate to the countertop core.
10 11
Apply contact cement to the remaining substrate and the Roll the entire surface with a J-roller to bond the laminate to
next piece of laminate. Let the cement dry, and then position the substrate. Clean off any excess contact cement with a soft
the laminate on the spacers and carefully align the butt seam. cloth and mineral spirits.
Beginning at the seam edge, remove the spacers and press the
laminate to the countertop substrate.
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12 13
Remove the excess laminate with a router and a flush- Finish-trim the edges with a router and a 15° bevel-cutting
cutting bit. At edges where the router cannot reach, trim the bit. Set the bit depth so that the bevel edge is cut only on
excess laminate with a file. The countertop is now ready for the the top laminate layer. The bit should not cut into the vertical
final trimming with a bevel-cutting bit. edge surface.
tip ▸ 14
Cut 11⁄4"-wide strips of 1⁄4" plywood to form an overhanging
scribing strip for the backsplash. Attach it to the top and sides
of the backsplash substrate with glue and wallboard screws.
File all the edges smooth. Use downward file Cut laminate pieces and apply to the exposed sides, top, and
strokes to avoid chipping the laminate. front of the backsplash. Trim each piece as it is applied.
(continued)
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15 16
Test-fit the countertop and backsplash. Because your walls Apply a bead of silicone caulk to the bottom edge of
may be uneven, use a compass to trace the wall outline onto the backsplash.
the backsplash-scribing strip. Use a belt sander to grind the
backsplash to the scribe line.
17 18
Position the backsplash on the countertop, and clamp it Screw 2" wallboard screws through the countertop and
into place with bar clamps. Wipe away the excess caulk, and into the backsplash core. Make sure the screw heads are
let it dry completely. countersunk completely for a tight fit against the base cabinet.
Install the countertops.
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repairing and Maintaining Laminate ▸
Laminate countertops can be found in more kitchens
than any other type of countertop material. The main
reason is that laminate is versatile and inexpensive.
It’s stain resistant, durable, sanitary, and it’s the only
material that requires no maintenance aside from
regular cleaning (you can’t say that about even the
most expensive marble or stainless-steel surfaces).
If you like the look of laminate, its only real drawbacks
are that it’s susceptible to damage.
Topping the list of common laminate damage
A vinyl and leather
problems are knife marks, burns, delamination, and
repair kit can be used to
misaligned or curling seams. Although damaged make touch-up repairs on laminate
laminate cannot be easily repaired and scars cannot countertops. To use this kit, prepare the
be removed, there are some simple repairs you can repair area with an abrasive pad, blend paints
make to spruce up your laminate. to achieve similar color, apply the paint to the repair
area, cover with a clear coat, and then heat-set with a
household iron after the paint dries.
Did someone forget to use a cutting board? You can
help hide scratches and light gouges in laminate with
a commercial seam filler, available from laminate
manufacturers. For chips or small holes, you can
purchase a repair kit from home and hardware
stores. Seam filler and repair kits consist of a plastic
compound that you mix to match the color of your
surface. Follow the product directions for mixing
and applying the patch. Again, the repair won’t be
invisible, but it’s better than doing nothing.
Burn marks are next on the list, as many a laminate
countertop has been marred by a hot pan, a fallen
cigarette, or a potholder left too close to a stovetop
burner. If the burn is near a cooking area, you’re in
luck: you can cut out the damage and set a large tile
into the surface to create a built-in trivet.
Seam-filling compound is purchased pretinted to Use a J-roller to rebond loose or bubbled laminate to its
match common plastic laminate colors. It can be used substrate. Heat the repair area with an iron first.
to repair minor chips and scratches or to fill separated
seams between laminate sheets.
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Concrete Countertop
C ast concrete countertops have many unique
characteristics. They are durable, heat resistant,
and relatively inexpensive (if you make them yourself).
dust out of your living spaces, working in a garage or
even outdoors lets you cast the countertops with the
finished surface face down in the form. This way, if
But most of all, they are highly attractive and a great you do a careful job building the form, you can keep
fit in contemporary kitchens or bathrooms. the grinding and polishing to a bare minimum. In
A concrete countertop may be cast in place some cases, you may even be able to simply remove
or formed offsite and installed like a natural stone the countertop from the form, flip it over, and install it
countertop. Casting offsite makes more sense for most essentially as is.
homeowners. In addition to keeping the mess and
tools & Materials ▸
Tape measure Wire mesh Black or colored Bagged concrete mix
Pencil Pliers silicone caulk Paste wax
Circular saw Concrete mixer Grinding and polishing Work gloves and eye
Jigsaw 5-gal. buckets pads protection
Power drill and right- Shovel Melamine-coated
angle drill guide Wheelbarrow particleboard If installing sink:
Level Wooden float Concrete sealer Knockout for faucet
Carpenter’s square Angle grinder Coloring agent Buffing bonnet
Reciprocating saw Belt sander Compass Faucet set
Aviation snips Automotive buffer No. 3 rebar Sink
2" coarse drywall Insulation board Tie wire Polyurethane varnish
screws Plastic sheeting Panel or silicone
Deck screws (3, 3½") Rubber mallet adhesive
Building a custom concrete countertop like this is an easier project than you might think. All of the building materials and
techniques are covered in this project.
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planning a Concrete Countertop ▸
G
A
B e H
F
C
I
L
J
K
D
The basic supplies needed to build your countertop form and cast the countertop include: (A) welded wire mesh for
reinforcement; (B) black or colored silicone caulk; (C) grinding and polishing pads; (D) melamine-coated particleboard for
constructing the form; (E) concrete sealer; (F) coloring agent (liquid or powder); (G) bagged concrete countertop mix or
high/early mix rated for 5,000 psi; (H) paste wax; (I) knockout for faucet, if installing sink; (J) buffing bonnet for polisher;
(K) faucet set; and (L) sink.
Custom Features: Concrete countertops are normally a countertop that will be 48" long × 24" deep × 31⁄2" thick
cast as flat slabs, but if you are willing to put a little will require 21⁄3 cu. ft. of mixed concrete (48 × 24 × 3.5 /
more time and effort into it, there are many additional 1,728 = 21⁄3) or four 80-lb. bags of countertop mix.
features you can create during the pour. A typical 3"-tall
backsplash is challenging, but if you have room behind
the faucet you can create a 3⁄4"-tall backsplash shelf in
the backsplash area. Or, if you search around for some
additional information, you can learn how to cast a drain
board directly into the countertop surface. And there is
practically no end to the decorative touches you can apply
using pigments and inserts.
Estimating Concrete for Countertops: After you
design your project and determine the actual dimensions,
you’ll need to estimate the amount of concrete you’ll
need. Concrete is measured by volume, in cubic feet;
Countertop mix is specially formulated concrete
multiply the length by the width and then by the thickness designed for use in either pre-cast or cast-in-place
of the finished countertop for volume in cubic inches, projects. Countertop mix contains additives that improve
then divide the sum by 1,728 for cubic feet. For example, the workability, strength, and finish of the mix.
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■ How to Cast a Concrete Countertop
1 2
Cut 11⁄2"-wide strips of 3⁄4" melamine-coated particleboard Use a power drill mounted in a right-angle drill guide to drill
for the form sides. Cut the strips to length (26 and 811⁄2" as 1⁄4"-dia. guide holes for 3" deck screws at 6" intervals all the
shown here) and drill two countersunk pilot holes 3⁄8" in from way through the tops of the form sides. Countersink the holes
the ends of the front and back form sides. Assemble the strips so the screw heads will be recessed slightly below the surface.
into a frame by driving a 2" drywall screws at each pilot hole
and into the mating ends of the end form strips.
3 4
With the base melamine-side up, center the melamine- Make the sink knockout blanks by stacking two pieces of 3⁄4"
strip frame pieces on the base. Check the corners with a melamine. The undermount sink we used requires a 20 × 31"
carpenter’s square to make sure they’re square. Drive one 31⁄2" knockout with corners that are rounded at a 2" radius. Cut
deck screw per form side near the middle. The screwheads two pieces of 3⁄4"-thick MDF to 20 × 31" square using a table
should be slightly below the top edges of the forms. Check saw. With a compass, mark 2"-radius curves at each corner
for square again, and continue driving the 31⁄2" screws at 6" for trimming. Make the trim cuts with a jigsaw. Cut just
intervals through the pilot holes. Check for square frequently. outside the trim line and sand up to it with a pad sander for a
Note: Do not drive any screws up through the underside of smooth curve.
the form base—you won’t be able to lift the countertop and
access the screws when it’s time to strip off the forms.
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5 6
Clamp the two pieces of melamine face-to-face for the Because gluing the faces together can add height to the
knockout and gang-sand the edges and corners so that they’re knockout (and cause the concrete finishing tools to bang into
smooth and even. Use a belt sander on a stationary table or an it when they ride on the form tops), attach each blank directly
oscillating spindle sander. Don’t oversand or the sink knockout to the layer below it using countersunk screws. Keep the edges
will be too small. aligned perfectly, especially if you’re planning to install an
undermount sink.
7
Faucet Knockouts Option: If your sink faucet will not be
mounted on the sink deck, you’ll need to add a knockout to
your form for the faucet hole (best to choose a single-handle
faucet), according to the requirements of the manufacturer.
You can order knockouts from a concrete countertop supplies
distributor, or you can create them with PVC pipe that has an
outside diameter equal to the required faucet hole size. To Seal exposed edges of the sink knockout with fast-drying
anchor the PVC knockout, cover one end with a flat cap made polyurethane varnish, and then caulk the form once the
for that size tubing. Drill a guide hole through the center of varnish is dry. Run a very thin bead of colored silicone caulk
the cap so you can secure it with a screw. The top of the cap (the coloring allows you to see where the caulk has been laid
should be exactly flush with the form sides once it is installed. on the white melamine) in all the seams and then smooth
Before securing, position the knockout next to a form side and carefully with your fingertip. In addition to keeping the wet
compare the heights. If the knockout is taller, file or sand the concrete from seeping into gaps in the form, the caulk will
uncapped end so their lengths match. create a slight roundover on the edges of the concrete. Caulk
around the bottoms of the knockouts as well.
(continued)
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8
Variation: If your countertop is more than 2" thick, use No. 3 Cut a piece of welded wire (also called rewire) in a 4 × 4" grid
rebar (3⁄8" dia.) for the primary reinforcement. Do not use rebar so it’s 2" smaller than the interior form dimensions. Make a
on thinner countertops because the rebar will be too close cutout for the sink and faucet knockouts, making sure the
to the surface and can telegraph through. Bend the rebar to rewire does not come closer than 1" to any edge, surface,
fit around the perimeter of the form using a rebar or conduit or knockout. Flatten it as best you can and then hang it with
bender. The rebar needs to be at least 1" away from all edges wires that are attached to the tops of the forms with screws
(including knockouts) and 1" away from the top surface. Tie the (you’ll remove the screws and cut the wires after the concrete
ends of the rebar with wire and set it in the form on temporary is placed).
1" spacers.
9 10
Clamp or screw the base of the form to a sturdy workbench Blend water with liquid cement color (if desired) in a 5-gal.
or table so it can’t move during finishing and curing. Check for bucket prior to adding to the mixer.
level and insert shims between the worktop and the benchtop
if needed for leveling. If you’re concerned about mess, slip a
sheet of 3-mil plastic on the floor under the workbench.
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11 12
Slowly pour concrete countertop mix Fill the countertop form, making sure to pack the concrete into corners and press
into the mixer and blend for a minimum it through the reinforcement. Overfill the form slightly.
of 5 minutes. Properly mixed material
will flow easily into molds. Add small
amounts of water as necessary to
achieve the desired consistency.
13 14
Vibrate the form vigorously as you work to settle concrete into all the voids. You Strike off excess concrete from the
can rent a concrete vibrator for this purpose, or simply strike the form repeatedly form using a 2 x 4 drawn along the
with a rubber mallet. If you have a helper and a sturdy floor and worktable, lift up and tops of the forms in a sawing motion. If
down on the ends of the table, bouncing it to cause vibrations. Make sure the table voids are created, pack them with fresh
remains level when you’re through. concrete and restrike. Do not overwork
the concrete.
(continued)
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15 16
Snip the wire ties holding the rewire mesh once you are Smooth the surface of the concrete with a screed, such
certain you won’t need to vibrate the form any further. Embed as a length of angle iron or square metal tubing. Work slowly
the cut ends attached to the rewire below the concrete surface. with a sawing motion, allowing the bleed water to fill in behind
the screed. Since this surface will be the underside of the
countertop, no further tooling is required. Cover the concrete
with plastic and let dry undisturbed for three to five days.
17 18
Remove the plastic covering and remove the forms. Do not Flip the countertop so the finished surface is exposed
pry against the fresh concrete. In most cases, you’ll need to cut (you’ll need a helper or two). Be extremely careful. The best
apart the sink knockout to prevent damaging the countertop technique is to roll the countertop onto an edge, position
when removing it. Drill a starter hole and then carefully cut up several shock-absorbing sleepers beneath it (rigid insulation
to the edge of the knockout. Cut the knockout into chunks until board works very well), and then gently lower the countertop
you can remove it all. The edges of the concrete will be fragile, onto the sleepers.
so be very careful.
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19 20
Grind the countertop surface with a series of increasingly fine grinding pads Clean and seal the concrete with
mounted on a shock-protected 5" angle grinder (variable speed). This is messy work several coats of quality concrete sealer
and can require hours to get the desired result. Rinse the surface regularly with clean (one with penetrating and film-forming
water and make sure it stays wet during grinding. For a gleaming surface, mount still agents). For extra protection and a
finer pads (up to 1,500 grit) on the grinder and wet-polish. renewable finish, apply a coat of paste
wax after the last coat of sealer dries.
21 22
Mount the sink (if undermount). Sinks are easier to install Make sure the cabinet is adequately reinforced and that
prior to attaching the countertop on the cabinet. Attach the as much plumbing as possible has been done, and apply a
sink according to the manufacturer’s directions. Undermount thick bead of silicone adhesive to the tops of the cabinets and
sinks like this are installed with undermount clips and stretchers. With at least one helper, lower the countertop onto
silicone adhesive. Self-rimming sinks likely will require some the base and position it where you wish. Let the adhesive dry
modifications to the mounting hardware (or at least you’ll need overnight before completing the sink and faucet hookups.
to buy some extra-long screws) to accommodate the thickness
of the countertop.
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tile Countertops
C eramic and porcelain tiles remain suitable choices
for countertops and backsplashes for a number
of reasons: they’re available in a vast range of sizes,
the tile layer. The tile is adhered to the cementboard
with thinset adhesive. The overall thickness of the
finished countertop is about 1½". If you want a thicker
styles, and colors; they’re durable and repairable; countertop, you can fasten an additional layer of
and many tiles are reasonably priced. With careful plywood (of any thickness) beneath the substrate.
planning, tile is also easy to install, making a custom
countertop a good do-it-yourself project.
The best tile for most countertops is glazed
ceramic or porcelain floor tile. Glazed tile is better tools & Materials ▸
than unglazed because of its stain resistance, and floor
tile is better than wall tile because it’s thicker and Tape measure Ceramic tile
more durable. While glaze protects tile from stains, Circular saw Tile spacers
the grout between tiles is still vulnerable because it’s Power drill 3⁄4" exterior-grade (CDX)
so porous. To minimize staining, apply a quality grout utility knife plywood
sealer, and reapply the sealer once a year thereafter. Straightedge 4-mil polyethylene sheeting
Choosing larger tiles reduces the number of grout Stapler Packing tape
lines. Although the selection is a bit limited, if you Drywall knife ½" cementboard
choose 13" × 13" floor tile, you can span from the Framing square 11⁄4" galvanized deck screws
front to the back edge of the countertop with a single Notched trowel Fiberglass mesh tape
seam. Tile cutter Thinset mortar
The countertop in this project has a substrate of Grout float Grout
3⁄4" exterior-grade plywood that’s cut to fit and fastened Sponge Silicone caulk
to the cabinets. The plywood is covered with a layer Corner bracket Silicone grout sealer
of plastic (a moisture barrier) and a layer of ½"-thick Moisture barrier Cement board screws
cementboard. Cementboard is an effective backer for Caulk gun Metal rule
tile because it won’t break down if water gets through
Ceramic or porcelain tile makes a durable countertop that is heat-resistant and relatively easy for a DIYer to create. By using
larger tiles, you minimize the grout lines (and the cleaning that goes with them).
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Backsplash
Bullnose
tiles
Grout
Field tiles
thinset
adhesive layer
Fiberglass
wallboard
Cementboard tape
Cementboard
edge strip
plastic
sheeting
thinset plywood core
fill layer
plywood
buildup strip
(optional)
A ceramic tile countertop made with wall tile starts with a core of 3⁄4" exterior-grade plywood that’s covered with a moisture
barrier of 4-mil polyethylene sheeting. Half-inch cementboard is screwed to the plywood, and the edges are capped with
cementboard and finished with fiberglass mesh tape and thinset mortar. Tiles for edging and backsplashes may be bullnose or
trimmed from the factory edges of field tiles.
■ Options for Backsplashes & Countertop Edges
Hardwood
edging
standard Cove tile
tile (cut)
Cove tile
V-cap
edge tile
Cementboard
plywood
Backsplashes can be made from cove tile attached to the Edge options include V-cap edge tile and hardwood strip
wall at the back of the countertop. You can use the tile alone edging. V-cap tiles have raised and rounded corners that
or build a shelf-type backsplash using the same construction create a ridge around the countertop perimeter—good for
as for the countertop. Attach the plywood backsplash to the containing spills and water. V-cap tiles must be cut with a tile
plywood core of the countertop. Wrap the front face and all saw. Hardwood strips should be pre-finished with at least three
edges of the plywood backsplash with cementboard before coats of polyurethane finish. Attach the strips to the plywood
laying tile. core so the top of the wood will be flush with the faces of the
tiles.
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tips for Laying out tile ▸
• You can lay tile over a laminate countertop that’s tiles, fasten a batten that’s the same thickness as
square, level, and structurally sound. Use a belt the edging tile, plus 1⁄8" for mortar thickness, to the
sander with 60- or 80-grit sandpaper to rough up the face of the countertop so the top is flush with the
surface before setting the tiles. The laminate cannot top of the counter. The bullnose tiles are aligned with
have a no-drip edge. If you’re using a new substrate the outside edge of the batten. For wood edge trim,
and need to remove your existing countertop, make fasten a 1 × 2 batten to the face of the countertop so
sure the base cabinets are level front to back, side to the top edge is above the top of the counter. The tiles
side, and with adjoining cabinets. Unscrew a cabinet are installed against the batten.
from the wall and use shims on the floor or against
the wall to level it, if necessary. • Before installing any tile, lay out the tiles in a dry run
using spacers. If your counter is L-shaped, start at the
• Installing battens along the front edge of the corner and work outward. Otherwise, start the layout
countertop helps ensure the first row of tiles is at a sink to ensure equal-sized cuts on both sides of
perfectly straight. For V-cap tiles, fasten a 1 × 2 batten the sink. If necessary, shift your starting point so you
along the reference line using screws. The first row don’t end up cutting very narrow tile segments.
of field tile is placed against this batten. For bullnose
13 × 13" tile 12 × 12" tile 6 × 6" tile 5 × 5" tile Mosaic tile
The bigger the tile, the fewer the grout lines. If you want a standard 25"-deep countertop, the only way to get there
without cutting tiles is to use mosaic strips or 1" tile. With 13 × 13" tile, you need to trim 1" off the back tile but have only
one grout line front to back. As you decrease tile size, the number of grout lines increases.
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■ How to Build a Tile Countertop
1 overhang here
overhang here
overhang
here
Determine the size of the plywood substrate by measuring across the top of the cabinets. The finished top should overhang the
drawer fronts by at least 1⁄4". Be sure to account for the thickness of the cementboard, adhesive, and tile when deciding how large to
make the overhang. Cut the substrate to size from 3⁄4" plywood using a circular saw. Also make any cutouts for sinks and other fixtures.
2 3
Corner
bracket
Set the plywood substrate on top of the cabinets, and attach Cut pieces of cementboard to size, then mark and make the
it with screws driven through the cabinet corner brackets. The cutout for the sink. Dry-fit them on the plywood core with the
screws should not be so long that they go through the top of rough sides of the panels facing up. Leave a 1⁄8" gap between
the substrate. the cementboard sheets and a 1⁄4" gap along the perimeter.
(continued)
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4
Option: Cut cementboard using a straightedge and utility Lay the 4-mil plastic moisture barrier over the plywood
knife or a cementboard cutter with a carbide tip. Hold the substrate, draping it over the edges. Tack it in place with a few
straightedge along the cutting line, and score the board several staples. Overlap seams in the plastic by 6", and seal them with
times with the knife. Bend the piece backward to break it along packing tape.
the scored line. Back-cut to finish.
5 6
Lay the cementboard pieces rough side up on the plywood Tape all cementboard joints with fiberglass mesh tape.
and attach them with cementboard screws driven every 6". Apply three layers of tape along the front edge where the
Drill pilot holes using a masonry bit, and make sure all screw horizontal cementboard sheets meet the cementboard edging.
heads are flush with the surface. Wrap the countertop edges
with 11⁄4"-wide cementboard strips, and attach them to the
core with cementboard screws.
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7 8
Fill all the gaps and cover all of the tape with a layer of Determine the required width of the edge tiles. Lay a field
thinset mortar. Feather out the mortar with a drywall knife to tile onto the tile base so it overhangs the front edge by 1⁄2".
create a smooth, flat surface. Hold a metal rule up to the underside of the tile and measure
the distance from it to the bottom of the subbase. The edge tiles
should be cut to this width (the gap for the grout line causes the
edge tile to extend the subbase that conceals it completely).
9 10
top edge 3 1⁄ 2”
Backsplash
1 1⁄ 2”
edge tile
1 1⁄ 2”
edge tile
1 1⁄ 2”
edge tile
1 1⁄ 2”
edge tile
3 1⁄ 2”
Backsplash top edge
Cut your edge tiles to the determined width using a tile saw. Cut tiles for the backsplash. The backsplash tiles (31⁄2" wide in
It’s worth renting a quality wet saw for tile if you don’t own our project) should be cut with a factory edge on each tile that
one. Floor tile is thick and difficult to cut with a hand cutter will be oriented upward when they’re installed. You can make
(especially porcelain tiles). efficient use of your tiles by cutting edge tiles from the center
area of the tiles you cut to make the backsplash.
(continued)
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11
sink cutout area
Dry-fit tiles on the countertop to find the layout that works best. Once the layout is established, make marks along the vertical
and horizontal rows. Draw reference lines through the marks and use a framing square to make sure the lines are perpendicular.
Variation: small Floor tiles & Bullnose edging ▸
Lay out tiles and spacers in a dry run. Adjust the starting Place the first row of field tile against the edge tile,
lines, if necessary. If using battens, lay the field tile flush separating the tile with spacers. Lay out the remaining
with the battens, then apply the edge tile. Otherwise, rows of tile. Adjust the starting lines if necessary to create
install the edging first. If the countertop has an inside a layout using the smallest number of cut tiles.
corner, start there by installing a ready-made inside
corner or by cutting a 45° miter in the edge tile to make
your own inside corner.
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12 13
Use a 3⁄8" square notched trowel to apply a layer of thinset Set the first tile into the adhesive. Hold a piece of the edge
adhesive to the cementboard. Apply enough for two or three against the countertop edge as a guide to show you exactly
tiles, starting at one end. Hold the trowel at roughly a 30° angle how much the tile should overhang the edge.
and try not to overwork the adhesive or remove too much.
14
Cut all the back tiles for the layout to fit (you’ll need to Option: To maintain even grout lines, some beginning tilers
remove about 1" of a 13 × 13" tile) before you begin the actual insert plus-sign-shaped plastic spacers at the joints. This is less
installation. Set the back tiles into the thinset, maintaining the likely to be useful with large tiles like those shown here, but it
gap for grout lines created by the small spacers cast into the is effective. Many tiles today feature built-in spacing lugs, so
tiles. If your tiles have no spacer nubs, see the option. the spacers are of no use. Make sure to remove the spacers
before the thin set sets. If you leave them in place, they will
corrupt your grout lines.
(continued)
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15
B
A
Variation: To mark border tiles for cutting, allow space for the To create a support ledge for the edge tiles, prop pieces of
backsplash tiles, grout, and mortar by placing a tile against the 2 × 4 underneath the front edge of the substrate overhang
back wall. Set another tile (A) on top of the last full tile in the using wood scraps to prop the ledge tightly up against
field, then place a third tile (B) over tile (A) and hold it against the substrate.
the upright tile. Mark and cut tile (A) and install it with the cut
edge toward the wall. Finish filling in your field tiles.
16 17
Apply a thick layer of thinset to the backside of the edge tile Butter each backsplash tile and press it into place, doing
with your trowel. This is called “buttering” and it is easier and your best to keep all of the grout lines aligned.
neater than attempting to trowel adhesive onto the countertop
edge. Press the tiles into position so they are flush with the
leading edges of the field tiles.
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18 19
Mix a batch of grout to complement the tile (keeping in mind Let the grout dry until a light film is created on the
that darker grout won’t look dirty as soon as lighter grout). Press countertop surface, then wipe the excess grout off with a
the grout down into the grout line areas with a grout float. sponge and warm, clean water. See the grout manufacturer's
instructions on drying tiles and polishing.
20 21
Run a bead of clear silicone caulk along the joint between the Wait at least one week and then seal the grout lines with
backsplash and the wall. Install your sink and faucet after the a penetrating grout sealer. This is important to do. Sealing
grout has dried. the tiles themselves is not a good idea unless you are using
unglazed tiles (a poor choice for countertops, however).
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Granite tile Countertops
S olid granite countertops are hugely popular
today, and for good reason: they are stunningly
beautiful, amazingly hard and durable, and completely
ends. This creates a more uniform look. Granite tile
can be installed over laminate countertop (not post-
form) if you remove the nosing and backsplash first.
natural. however, they are also expensive and virtually The laminate substrate must be in good condition with
impossible for a do-it-yourselfer to install. Take heart no peeling or water damage.
though, there is a way for an enterprising DIYer to
achieve the look and feel of natural granite, but at a
fraction of the price: granite tile countertops.
You have two basic product options with granite tools & Materials ▸
tile. You can use standard granite tiles, which consist
of field tiles and edge tiles with square edges that are 5
⁄8" exterior-grade plywood utility knife
installed just like ceramic or porcelain tiles are, and 1⁄4" tile backer or Straightedge
finished with thin edge tiles to create the nosing; or you cementboard 1⁄4" notched trowel
can use granite tiles that are installed with front tiles Cementboard screws Modified thinset
that feature an integral bullnose that better imitates the Tiles unsanded grout
look of solid granite. Typically, granite tiles fit together Tile wet saw with diamond Grout sealer
more snugly than ceramic tiles do. This gives you the blade Stone sealer
option of finishing with grout that’s the same color as honing stone Sponge
the tiles for a near-seamless appearance. Power drill Bucket
Layout is the most important step on any tile Circular saw Rubber gloves
project, and no less so when working with granite tiles. Jigsaw Pry bar
If tiles need to be cut to fit, it is best to cut the tiles at Compass Carpeted mallet
the center of the installation or the sets of tiles at both
Granite tiles are installed
in much the same way
as ceramic tiles are, but
the ultra-narrow gaps and
matching grout mimic
the appearance of solid
polished granite.
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■ How to Install Granite Tile Countertops
1 2
Remove old countertops by unscrewing the countertops Measure the cabinet bank from outside edges to outside
from the cabinets. Unscrew the take-up bolts on mitered edges on all sides and cut a piece of 5⁄8"-thick exterior-grade
sections of the countertop. Use a utility knife to cut through plywood to fit. The edges of the plywood should be flush with
any caulk. The countertops should lift off easily; if they don’t, the outside edges of the cabinet tops. Screw the plywood to
use a pry bar to carefully pry them away from the base the cabinet braces from underneath.
cabinets. Note: In some cases you can install the tiles over old
laminate countertops.
3 4
Place the sink upside down in the desired location and trace Granite tile, like ceramic tile, requires a cementboard or
around it to mark the cutting lines. To create support for the denseboard underlayment layer. Cut the material to the same
drop-in sink flange, use a compass to trace new cutting lines dimension as the plywood subbase and lay the cementboard
inside the traced lines (usually 5⁄8"). See the manufacturer’s over the plywood with the edges flush. From inside the sink
instructions to confirm dimensions (some sinks come with a base, trace around the sink cutout with a marker. Remove the
template for making the cutout). Use a jigsaw to cut out the underlayment and make the cutout with a jigsaw.
sink opening.
(continued)
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5 6
Apply a 1⁄8"-thick layer of modified thinset to the top of the Cut (as needed) and lay out the tiles, beginning with an
plywood using a 1⁄4" notched trowel. Screw the cementboard to inside corner if you have one. Arrange tiles for the best color
the plywood with cementboard screws. Space the screws 4" to match. Tiles abut directly, with no space for grout. Cut the tiles
5" apart across the entire surface. as necessary to fit. Cut self-edged tiles edge side first. Cut
the tiles with the polished side up. Use a fine-honing stone to
relieve the cut edge to match the manufactured edges.
■ Variations for Corners & Angles
Mitered inside corners are a bit tricky to cut because the Kitchen islands often have corners that do not form a
mitered point needs to align with the starting point of the right angle. In such cases, you can avoid a sharp angle on the
bullnose edge. This has the effect of making the corner set countertop by cutting a triangular bullnose piece to fill in.
back roughly 1 inch.
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7 8
Even though the flange of the sink shown here will cover the Start laying tiles. Use modified thinset and a 1⁄4" trowel. If
inside corners in the sink cutout, take care to make a gentle you have an inside corner in your countertop, begin there.
rounded corner cut by drilling at the corner with a 1⁄2" masonry Apply thinset at the inside corner, enough to place four or five
bit. Perpendicular corner cuts can lead to cracking. Finish the tiles. Set the left and right inside corner pieces and the first
straight legs of the cutout with a tile saw or a jigsaw with a field tile.
masonry blade.
9 10
Continue setting tiles. Apply the thinset mortar to an area After the thin set has dried for at least 24 hours, grout with
big enough for two to four tiles and place the tiles. Use a 2 × 4 an unsanded grout. When the grout has dried, seal with natural
covered with carpeting to set the tiles. Push down on tiles to stone sealer.
set, and also across the edges to ensure an even face.
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tile Backsplash
T here are few spaces in your home with as much
potential for creativity and visual impact as the
space between a countertop and wall-mounted
tip ▸
cabinets. A well-designed backsplash can transform the
ordinary into the extraordinary. Tiles for the backsplash
can be attached directly to wallboard or plaster and do
not require backerboard. When purchasing the tile,
order 10 percent extra to cover breakage and cutting.
Remove the switch and receptacle coverplates, and
install box extenders to make up for the extra thickness
of the tile. Protect the countertop from scratches by
covering it with a drop cloth.
tools & Materials ▸
Level Bucket
Tape measure Story stick
Pencil Straight 1 × 2
Break tiles into fragments and make a mosaic
Tile cutter Wall tile
backsplash. Always use a sanded grout for joints
Rod saw Tile spacers (if needed) wider than 1⁄8".
Notched trowel Mastic adhesive
Rubber grout float Masking tape
Beating block Caulk
Rubber mallet Drop cloth
Sponge Grout
Contemporary glass
mosaic sheets create
a counter-to-cabinet
backsplash for a waterproof,
splash-proof wall with very
high visual impact.
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■ How to Install a Tile Backsplash
1 2
Make a story stick by marking a board at least half as long as Starting at the midpoint of the installation area, use the story
the backsplash area to match the tile spacing. stick to make layout marks along the wall. If an end piece is
too small (less than half a tile), adjust the midpoint to give you
larger, more attractive end pieces. Use a level to mark this
point with a vertical reference line.
3
Although it may appear straight, your countertop may not be Variation: Diagonal Layout. Mark vertical and horizontal
level and therefore is not a reliable reference line. Run a level reference lines, making sure the angle is 90°. To establish
along the counter to find the lowest point on the countertop. diagonal layout lines, measure out equal distances from the
Mark a point two tiles up from the low point and extend a level cross point, and then connect the points with a line. Additional
line across the entire work area. layout lines can be extended from these as needed.
(continued)
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4 5
Protect the countertop with a strip of painter’s tape. Apply Press tiles into the adhesive with a slight twisting motion. If
mastic adhesive evenly to the area beneath the horizontal the tiles are not self-spacing, use plastic spacers to maintain
reference line using a notched trowel. Comb the adhesive even grout lines. If the tiles do not hang in place, use masking
horizontally with the notched edge. tape to hold them in place until the adhesive sets.
6 7
Install a whole row along the reference line, checking Install an edge border as needed or desired. Mosaic sheets
occasionally to make sure the tiles are level. Continue installing normally do not have bullnose tiles on the edges, so if you
tiles below the first row, trimming tiles that butt against the don’t wish to see the cut edges of the outer tiles, install a
countertop as needed. vertical column of edge tiles at the end of the backsplash area.
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8 9
When the tiles are in place, make sure they are flat and firmly Mix the grout and apply it with a rubber grout float. Spread
embedded by laying a beating block against the tile and rapping it over the tiles, keeping the float at a low 30° angle, pressing
it lightly with a mallet. Remove the spacers. Allow the mastic to the grout deep into the joints. Note: For grout joints 1⁄8" and
dry for at least 24 hours, or as directed by the manufacturer. smaller, be sure to use a nonsanded grout.
10 11
Wipe off excess grout, holding the float at a right angle to Clean excess grout with a damp sponge. When the grout
the tile, working diagonally so as not to remove grout from has dried to a haze, buff the tile clean with a soft cloth. Apply a
the joints. Clean any remaining grout from the tiles with a bead of caulk between the countertop and the tiles.
damp sponge, working in a circular motion. Rinse the sponge
thoroughly and often.
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Installing a recycled paper countertop requires moderate DIY skills and attention to detail. But the result, as seen here, is a
stunning surface that is both unique and lasting. This particular product is a full 11⁄2" thick. Thinner versions are available and may
be easier to fabricate.
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recycled paper Countertops
I f you’re on the hunt for a handsome, distinctive,
durable, and eco-friendly countertop, you’re not
likely to do better than a recycled paper surface.
tools & Materials ▸
Countertops like the PaperStone® product used in Circular saw with Silicone adhesive
this project are 100 percent post-consumer recycled fine-tooth Silicone caulk
paper, emitting no volatile organic compounds (VOCs) carbide blade Orbital sander with an
and certified “food safe” by the National Safety Biscuit joiner assortment of grits
Foundation (NSF). Router with carbide (80 to 240)
You might not think that paper would make for bits Maroon nonwoven pads
effective countertop surface—especially in water- hole saw (13/8") Straight edge and radius
prone rooms such as kitchens and bathrooms. But Jigsaw guides
fortunately, you’d be wrong. This material is non- Take-up bolts Recycled paper
porous and stain resistant. It can withstand heat Measuring tape countertop panels
up to 350°F (although many finishes used to seal Cordless power Sink/stove templates
the surface cannot), and scratches can be buffed or drill with an (included with sink/
sanded out. assortment of stove or available
There are a few restrictions with this type of drill bits online)
countertop. You should never use a bleach cleanser, Carpenter’s level Speed square
and although cuts can be buffed out, it’s best to Caulk gun Bar clamps
use a cutting board rather than cutting directly on Painter’s tape Acetone
the countertop. You should also be aware that the 2-part epoxy
counter comes in different thicknesses—we’ve used
the thickest version here to show the fabrication and
installation steps more clearly; a thinner panel (with a
built-up edge) would be easier for the home DIYer to
work with.
This PaperStone countertop product is a full 11⁄2" thick. It can be cut with normal cutting tools, but give yourself plenty of time.
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■ How to Install a Recycled Paper Countertop
1 2
Check that the cabinets are secure and level. Measure Fabricate the template for the countertop using
twice and make a precise drawing of the entire countertop cardboard. Set the cardboard on top of the base cabinets and
surface, including the location of seams, to optimize the trace the outline on the underside. Note overhangs, appropriate
surface area of the panels you order. Note the exact sink, anchor screw locations, and other features. Scribe the template
faucet, and stove opening center points. to the wall on the backside (the fit can be less accurate if you
are installing a backsplash). Note: Plan for joining countertop
sections, using butt seams rather than miter seams.
3 4
Order the panel(s) for the countertop. Recycled paper Position the template over the panel and clamp it in place.
counters have a “grain” and slight variations across the Trace the template outline on the panel top face, and mark the
surface; decide the best panel orientation when you have it position of fixtures such as sinks. We used a silver marker on
in the space. Inspect the panel(s) to determine if there is a this product, which can be removed later with acetone.
crown, which should face up. Check manufacturer’s directions,
however, because some recommend flattening any crown
prior to installation.
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5 6
Remove the cardboard and position any sink, faucet, and Cut the material to length using a circular saw equipped
fixture templates on the panel. Trace outlines for fixtures, with an 80- to 100-tooth, triple-chip carbide blade. Cut
checking the number and diameter of faucet holes (normally approximately 1/8" outside of the marked line. Also use the
1" diameter). Recheck all measurements against the master circular saw to make straight portions of the sink cutout (for
drawing, before cutting the panel. the sink, cut 1/8" inside the cutting line).
7 8
Use a jigsaw and fine-tooth carbide blade to make Use an random orbit sander to smooth out the cuts,
curved cuts (be sure that the blade is kept perpendicular to sanding up to the cutting line as needed. For long edges, you
the countertop’s surface during cutting). Drill faucet holes with can speed things up by using a belt sander to remove material.
a hole saw. Use a router with a guide to make clean-up cuts Finish-sand all edges with180- to 220-grit sandpaper.
precisely to the traced line. Use a radius guide with the router
on inside radius corners.
9 10
Test-fit the countertop(s) in position on the cabinet bases and Rout exposed countertop edges to the preferred profile,
check for appropriate and correct alignment. Specifically, check using the appropriate router bit and a guide. Move the router
that all cutouts are in the correct positions, that any overhangs steadily along the edge and avoid sitting too long at any one
are consistent, and that the surface is level across its span. spot, which can lead to burn marks. (continued)
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11 12
Dry-fit the countertop sections to Turn the countertops over and mark T channels for the take-up bolts. Note that
ensure a tight fit. To help with alignment, the channels must be exactly mirrored on the connecting countertop. Check that the
mark and cut matching biscuit slots in marks line up when the countertops are correctly aligned. Rout the channels using a
the edge of each countertop, using a plunge router set to a depth half of the panel’s thickness. Set the biscuits in the slots,
biscuit joiner. coat the countertop seam edges with the adhesive recommended by the manufacturer
(normally a two-part epoxy), and secure the countertops tightly with bar clamps. Install
the take-up bolts, check once again that the seam is precisely aligned—in particular,
that no portion of the top seam surface is higher than any other—and tighten the bolts.
13 14 15
Install an undermount sink before Drill guide holes for the sleeves that Apply a bead of silicone caulk to the
installing the counter. (Drop-in sinks will hold the sink-mounting clips. Insert sink flange. Set the sink into position in
are installed after.) Mark the edges the sleeves into the holes. the underside of the countertop. Install
of the sink and the edges of the sink the sink clips to secure the sink in place.
cutout with centerline marks. With the
countertop upside down, align the sink
over the opening mark for the mounting
screw guide holes.
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16 17 18
Remove all clamps. With several Locate the anchor screw locations Wipe away any squeeze out or
helpers, carefully invert the countertop on the cabinet top frames and drill pilot excess adhesive from around the sink
so it is rightside-up. Apply beads of holes using a carbide bit and a drill and underside edges of the counter as
silicone caulk to the tops of the cabinets stop. Secure the countertop in place well as along any seams. Use a clean
and then lower the countertop in place. with screws driven into the pilot holes. cloth dipped in acetone to clean up
Tap the sink if needed to adjust its the adhesives.
position, and then finish tightening the
mounting screws.
19 20
Measure, mark, and cut the backsplash sections from the Lay a thin bead of silicone adhesive on the back and
leftover panel segments. (Sections should be joined with 90° bottom of the backsplash sections. Carefully press the
butt seams.) Test-fit the backsplash sections in place. (Although backsplash pieces into place and wipe away any squeezout or
they can be scribed to the back wall profile, this is usually excess adhesive. Allow the adhesive to cure according to the
unnecessary because the caulk will fill any gap.) Add a profile manufacturer’s directions.
to the top of the backsplash as desired, using a router and bit.
(continued)
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21 22
Clean all exposed surfaces using a clean, wet cloth, and Remove the tape and allow the caulk to cure entirely. Use
let dry. Use painter’s tape or masking tape to mark of the a general-purpose woven hand pad to rub down the entire
backsplash for caulk along both the countertop seam and the countertop surface. Use 180- to 240-grit sandpaper to smooth
wall seam. This will ensure crisp caulk lines. Apply a thin bead any rough edges or profiles.
of caulk along the seams.
23 24
If you want a perfectly smooth finish, sand the top and edges Apply a sealer to the countertop surface for a rich color.
beginning with a 180-grit pad and working up to a 240-grit pad. If the manufacturer does not sell a product made for their
Clean the surface between sandings, using a clean, lint-free counters, like the PaperStone sealer seen here, you can use
cloth moistened with denatured alcohol. Note: Check the food-safe mineral oil in most cases. Buff the surface for a
manufacturer’s recommendations—many types of recycled nice sheen.
paper countertops have a textured surface that will not
support a smooth finish.
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Resources
Aristokraft Cabinetry Merillat Cabinets
www.aristokraft.com www.merillat.com
Cambria Natural Quartz Countertops National Kitchen & Bath Association
www.cambria.com 800-843-6522
www.nkba.org
Dupont Corian
www2.dupont.com PaperStone Sustainable Composite Surfaces
www.paperstoneproducts.com
EcoTop Surfaces
www.kliptech.com Pyrolave
www.pyrolave.com
Formica Surfaces
www.formica.com Silestone Quartz Surfaces
www.silestoneusa.com
Granite Transformations
www.granitetransformations.com Vetrazzo
www.vetrazzo.com
IKEA Home Furnishings
www.ikea.com Wilsonart
www.wilsonart.com
KraftMaid Kitchen and Bathroom Cabinets
www.kraftmaid.com
Photo Credits
Photos courtesy of Cambria, www.cambriausa.com: Photos courtesy of Merillat®, www.merillat.com:
pp. 9 (top both), 167 (right) pp. 13 (top left), 14 (lower left),88
Todd Caverly, pp. 106 Photos courtesy of PanelTech/PaperStone®,
www.paperstoneproducts.com, 360-538-9815: pp. 12
Photos courtesy of Dupont/Corian®, www2.dupont.com, (top left and lower), 165 (lower), 166 (left)
800-441-7515: pp. 11 (lower), 163 (left), 149 (top)
Photos courtesy of Pyrolave, www.pyrolave.fr: pp. 9
Photos courtesy of Formica Corporation, (lower, both)
www.formica.com, 800-367-6422: page 8 (top and
lower right) Eric Roth for Thomas Buckborough: pp. 172
Photos courtesy of Granite Transformations, Photo courtesy of Shutterstock.com/©Artazum:
www.granitetransformations.com: pp. 11 (top left), pp. 39 (both)
163 (right)
Photo courtesy of Shutterstock.com/©Lipskiy: pp. 28
Photos ©IKEA®,www.ikea.com: pp. 13 (lower), 49, 50,
51 (top left and lower two) Photo courtesy of Shutterstock.com/©MarishaSha:
pp. 48
iStock: pp. 11 (top right), 70, 72, 81, 164
Photos courtesy of Vetrazzo, www.vetrazzo.com: pp.
Photo courtesy of KlipTech®, www.kliptech.com: 10 (all), 162, 167 (left)
pp. 12 (top right)
Photo courtesy of Wilsonart LLC, www.wilsonart.com:
Photo courtesy of Kohler Plumbing, www.kohler.com, pp. 8 (lower left)
pp. 51 (top right)
Photos courtesy of Kraftmaid®, www.kraftmaid.com:
pp. 6, 14 (top right), 29 (all), 40, 59
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Conversions
Metric equivalent
Inches (in.) 1
⁄64 1
⁄32 1
⁄25 1
⁄16 1
⁄8 1
⁄4 3
⁄8 2
⁄5 1
⁄2 5
⁄8 3
⁄4 7
⁄8 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 36 39.4
Feet (ft.) 1 3 31⁄12
Yards (yd.) 1 11⁄12
Millimeters (mm) 0.40 0.79 1 1.59 3.18 6.35 9.53 10 12.7 15.9 19.1 22.2 25.4 50.8 76.2 101.6127 152 178 203 229 254 279 305 914 1,000
Centimeters (cm) 0.95 1 1.27 1.59 1.91 2.22 2.54 5.08 7.62 10.1612.7 15.2 17.8 20.3 22.9 25.4 27.9 30.5 91.4 100
Meters (m) .30 .91 1.00
Converting Measurements
to ConVert: to: MuLtIpLy By: to ConVert: to: MuLtIpLy By:
Inches Millimeters 25.4 Millimeters Inches 0.039
Inches Centimeters 2.54 Centimeters Inches 0.394
Feet Meters 0.305 Meters Feet 3.28
Yards Meters 0.914 Meters Yards 1.09
Miles Kilometers 1.609 Kilometers Miles 0.621
Square inches Square centimeters 6.45 Square centimeters Square inches 0.155
Square feet Square meters 0.093 Square meters Square feet 10.8
Square yards Square meters 0.836 Square meters Square yards 1.2
Cubic inches Cubic centimeters 16.4 Cubic centimeters Cubic inches 0.061
Cubic feet Cubic meters 0.0283 Cubic meters Cubic feet 35.3
Cubic yards Cubic meters 0.765 Cubic meters Cubic yards 1.31
Pints (U.S.) Liters 0.473 (lmp. 0.568) Liters Pints (U.S.) 2.114 (lmp. 1.76)
Quarts (U.S.) Liters 0.946 (lmp. 1.136) Liters Quarts (U.S.) 1.057 (lmp. 0.88)
Gallons (U.S.) Liters 3.785 (lmp. 4.546) Liters Gallons (U.S.) 0.264 (lmp. 0.22)
Ounces Grams 28.4 Grams Ounces 0.035
Pounds Kilograms 0.454 Kilograms Pounds 2.2
Tons Metric tons 0.907 Metric tons Tons 1.1
Converting temperatures Fahrenheit Celsius
Convert degrees Fahrenheit (F) to degrees Celsius (C) by following this simple
formula: Subtract 32 from the Fahrenheit temperature reading. Then mulitply that
number by 5⁄9. For example, 77°F ‑ 32 = 45. 45 × 5⁄9 = 25°C. 55° 25°
To convert degrees Celsius to degrees Fahrenheit, multiply the Celsius temperature 50° 20°
reading by 9⁄5, then add 32. For example, 25°C × 9⁄5 = 45. 45 + 32 = 77°F. 45° 15°
40° 10°
35° 5°
30° Freezing 0°
25° −5°
20° −10°
15° −15°
10° −20°
5° −25°
0° −30°
220 ■ ThE COMPLETE GuIDE TO CABINETS & COuNTERTOPS160-224_30601.indd 220 5/16/13 2:49 PM 160-224_30601.indd 220 5/16/13 2:00 PM (Fogra 39)Job:05-30601 Title:MBI-The Complete Guide to Cabinets & Countertops (Text) (Ray) #175 Dtp:225 Page:220
Index
B
Backsplashes, 10–11, 17, 132, 163, 170–171, 177–178, measuring for dimensions, 102
180, 183–184, 187, 194 mounting styles, 28
about, 208 inset, 28, 101–102
ideas for, 10–11, 195, 208 partial-inset, 28, 101
tile, installing step-by-step, 209–211 overlay, 28, 101–102
Baltic birch plywood, 86, 93, 150, 152 Cabinet drawers
Bathroom cabinets, 14, 27, 40, 44, 161, 163, 186, 213 building, 69, 86
organizational drawers and shelves, 15 butt-joint construction
vanity, 15 about, 90–91
custom step-by-step, 91
about, 150–155 determining dimensions, 88
building step-by-step, 152–155 dovetailed, 38
ideas for, 150 face
double-sink top attaching step-by-step, 99
about, 156–159 styles, 87
ideas for, 156 hardware
installing step-by-step, 158–159 about, 114
window seat catches and soft closers, 115
about, 116–119 knobs, 114
building step-by-step, 118–119 pulls, 114
ideas for, 116 installing step-by-step, 114
Bathroom countertops, 161 installing, 95–99
Bedroom cabinets, 7 interior organizers, 88
Biscuit joiner, 21 rabbet-and-dado construction
about, 92–94
C step-by-step, 93–94
Cabinet door slides, 38, 55
building, 100 adjusting, 97–98
construction styles, 29, 101 installing step-by-step, 96
raised panel, 29, 101 spacers, 55, 97
recessed (flat) panel, 29 types of, 95, 97–98
slab, 29, 101 roller, 95
building step-by-step, 108–109 telescopic ball-bearing, 95
determining sizes of, 102, 127 Cabinet kick plates, 38, 44, 46, 50
frame-and-panel Cabinet legs, 50, 150, 153
building, 103 Cabinet lighting, 140
step-by-step, 104–105 Cabinetry styles, 7
router bit set, 103 face-frame, 7, 13, 25, 27, 88–89
glass panel frameless, 7, 13–14, 25, 27, 48–49, 88–89
about, 106 advantages of, 48
building step-by-step, 107 ideas for, 48–49
insert options, 106 installing, 48
installing step-by-step, 53 rising popularity of, 48
hardware glass-front, 14
about, 114 selecting, 26
catches and soft closers, 115 ideas for, 13–15
knobs and pulls, 99, 114 Cabinets
installing pulls step-by-step, 114 base, 44, 61, 66
hanging, 110 advanced, 81–85
hinge styles, 28 building step-by-step, 83–85
concealed building and installing step-by-step, 66–68
about, 28, 110 ideas for, 44
installing step-by-step, 111 installing step-by-step, 45–46
decorative, 28 creating a layout for, 30–31
European, cup custom, 25, 38
about, 47, 110 building, 71
adjusting, 47 ideas for, 58–59
semi-concealed, 28 laundry center
wrap-around butt about, 140–145
about, 112 building step-by-step, 142–145
installing step-by-step, 112–113 planning for, 71
(continued)
Index ■ 221160-224_30601.indd 221 5/16/13 2:49 PM 160-224_30601.indd 221 5/16/13 2:00 PM (Fogra 39)Job:05-30601 Title:MBI-The Complete Guide to Cabinets & Countertops (Text) (Ray) #175 Dtp:225 Page:221
freestanding or modular, 26 ideas for, 204
about, 50–51 installing step-by-step, 204–207
ideas for, 50–51 laminate, 8, 162–164, 178–185
installing, 51 building step-by-step, 180–184
media bar repairing and maintaining, 185
about, 128–133 tips for working with, 179
ideas for, 128 marble, 7, 162–164
installing step-by-step, 130–133 polished volcanic rock, 9
medicine cabinet, full-height post-form prefab, 7, 161, 164, 168–171
about, 134–139 installing step-by-step, 169–171
building step-by-step, 136–139 quartz, 9, 161–162, 167
ideas for, 134 recycled glass, 7, 10, 161–162, 167
surface-mount vs. wall-mounted, 139 recycled paper, 7, 12, 161–162, 165
prepping to install new ones, 32–33 about, 212–218
preparing walls, step-by-step, 36–37 ideas for, 212–213
recessed installing step-by-step, 214–218
about, 120–127 solid surface, 164–165
building step-by-step, 123–127 Corian ®, 11, 163–165
ideas about, 121 stainless-steel, 166
removing old ones, 34–35 stone, 161–164
step-by-step, 35 tile, 163, 166, 194–203
semi-stock, 25, 38 building step-by-step, 197–203
standard sizes, 26 ideas for, 194
stock, 25, 38–39 options for backsplashes and countertop
assembling, 52–53 edges, 195
customizing, 52–53 tips for laying out, 196
ready-to-assemble (RTA), 26, 39 wood, 11, 162
ready-to-install, 26, 39 bamboo, 11
wall-mounted, 40–43, 60, 62 butcher block, 163, 166
advanced upper, 72–80 about, 172–177
building step-by-step, 74–80 ideas for, 172
building and installing step-by-step, 62–65 installing step-by-step, 173–177
ideas for, 40 Crown molding, 52–53, 71, 134, 138–139, 145
installing step-by-step, 41–43 Cutting sheet goods, 59
warranties, 38
Cabinets, storage features D
benches, 15 Double drain, 157
slide-out trays or shelves Drill, cordless, 20
about, 14, 54
ideas for, 14, 54 E
installing step-by-step, 56–57 Electrical considerations, 17, 32, 34, 40, 44, 130, 136, 140
spice racks, 14
Caulking countertops and backsplashes, 158, 171, 177, F
184, 189, 203, 205, 211, 216–218 Flooring considerations, 44
Contact cement, 178, 181–182, 187 Framing square (carpenter’s square), 16–17, 96,
Constructing and installing cabinets and countertops 169, 179, 200
jobsite preparation, 22
tools and materials for, 16–22 K
installation and fabrication tools, 18–20 Kitchen cabinets, 14, 26–27, 30–31, 40, 44, 48–50
measuring and marking tools, 16–17 Kitchen countertops, 7, 9–11, 14, 161, 163, 186, 213
power tools, 22
Countertops
basics, 162
L
Laundry room cabinets, 14
choosing, 161
compact laundry center
cost considerations, 162
about, 146–149
design considerations, 162–163
building step-by-step, 147–149
ideas for, 8–12
ideas for, 146
edge profiles, 8, 178
custom laundry center
materials
about, 140–145
concrete, 162
building step-by-step, 142–145
about, 186–193
ironing board cabinet, 149
casting step-by-step, 188–193
Laundry room countertops, 161
ideas for, 186
planning, 187
granite, 7, 11, 39, 162–163 M
shells, 163 Measurement conversions, 220
tile Media bar cabinets
222 ■ the complete guide to cabinets & countertops160-224_30601.indd 222 5/16/13 2:49 PM 160-224_30601.indd 222 5/16/13 2:00 PM (Fogra 39)Job:05-30601 Title:MBI-The Complete Guide to Cabinets & Countertops (Text) (Ray) #175 Dtp:225 Page:222
about, 128–133 Saws
ideas for, 128 circular, 20, 59
installing step-by-step, 130–133 compound power miter, 21–22
Medicine cabinet, full-height coping, 18
about, 134–139 hand, 18
building step-by-step, 136–139 jigsaw, 20
ideas for, 134 miter, 120
Mudroom cabinets, 7 reciprocating, 20–21
table, 21, 59, 120
P Sanders, 21
Plumbing considerations, 17, 32, 44, 140, 156–159 Seam-filling compound, 185
finding sink links, 159 Side cutters and end nippers, 18–19
Plywood grades, 93 Sinks, 163
finding leaks, 159
R self-rimming, 163
Recessed cabinets undermount, 163
about, 120–127 Stud finders, 17
ideas for, 120
building step-by-step, 123–127 T
Routers, 21 T-bevels, 17
S W
Safety Window seat cabinets, 15
equipment, 18, 23 about, 116–119
precautions, 23 building step-by-step, 118–119
tips, 23 ideas for 116,
Index ■ 223160-224_30601.indd 223 5/16/13 2:49 PM 160-224_30601.indd 223 5/16/13 2:00 PM (Fogra 39)Job:05-30601 Title:MBI-The Complete Guide to Cabinets & Countertops (Text) (Ray) #175 Dtp:225 Page:223
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