Sheds & Outbuildings
Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Contemporary Sheds
Source: Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Contemporary Sheds.pdf
Source file: Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Contemporary Sheds.pdf
I •. . , r I
CONTEMPORARY
Complete Plans for 12 Sheds, including: • Garden Outbuilding • Storage Lean-to • Playhouse • Woodland Cottage • Hobby Studio • Lawn Tractor Barn
by Philip Schmidt
Creative Publishing
international
MINNEAPOLIS. MINNESOTA
www.creativepub.comCreative Publishing international
Copyright © 2008 PreSident/CEO: Ken Fund Creative Publishing international, Inc. Vice President for Sales & Marketing: Peter Ackroyd 400 First Avenue North SUite 300 Home Improvement Group Minneapolis, Minnesota 55401 1-800-328-3895 Publisher: Bryan Trandem WINW,creativepub,com Managing Editor: Tracy Stanley All lights reserved Senior Editor: Mark Johanson Editor: Jennifer Gehlhar Printed at R.R. Donnelley Creative Director: Michele Lanci-Altomare 10987654321 Senior Design Manager: Brad Springer Li brary of Congress Cataloging-in-publication Data Design Managers: Jon Simpson, Mary Rohl
Schmidt, Philip. Lead Photographer: Steve Galvin The complete guide to contemporary sheds: complete plans for 12 sheds, including playhouse, garden outbuilding, storage lean-to, lawn tractor barn, Photo Coordinator: Joanne Wawra hobby studio, woodland cottage / by Philip Schmidt. Shop Manager: Bryan MCLain p. cm. — (Complete guide) Shop Assistant: Cesar Fernandez Rodriguez At head of title: Branded by Black & Decker Summary: “Provides practical information for planning and building sheds of ali types” —Provided by publisher. Production Managers: Linda HailS, Laura Hokkanen Includes index. ISBN-13: 978-1-58923-335-5 (soft cover) Author: Philip Schmidt ISBN-l0: 1-58923-335-2 (soft cover) Page Layout Artist: Danlelle Smith
- Sheds—Design and construction—Amateurs’ manuals. 2. Toolsheds— Design and construction—Amateurs’ manuals. 3. Outbuildings—Design and Photographers: Peter Caley, Andrea Rugg, Joel Schnell construction—Amateurs’ manuals. I. Black & Decker Corporation (Towson , Shop Help: Dan Anderson, Taml Helmer, John Webb, Md.) II. Title. III. Title: Branded by Black & Decker. IV. Series. Glenn Austin, Scott Boyd, Lyle Ferguson, David Hartley, Russ Reininger, Syd Thomas, Kevin Weber TH4962.S532oo8 690.89—dc22 Technical Review: Arien Cartrette
2007039143
The Complete Guide to Contemporary Sheds Created by: The Editors of Creative Publishing international, Inc., in cooperation with Black & Decker. Black & Decke~ is a trademark of The Black & Decker Corporation and is used under license.
NOTICE TO READERS For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when fo llowing the procedures described in this book. The Publisher and Black & Decker cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse of the information provided. The techniques shown In this book are general techniques for various applications. In some Instances, additional techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions included with products, since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required: some may not be appropriate for al l dO-It-yourselfers, and some may requ ire professional help. Consult your local Buildi ng Department for information on building permits, codes and other laws as they apply to your project.
Contents The Complete Guide to Contemporary Sheds
Introduction … … … … … … 4 Essential Outbuildings . … . . 6 Clerestory Studio … .. . 86 Sunl ight Garden Shed … . 100 Building Basics . … . … … … 20 Choosing a Site for You r Shed … … … … … … . .. 22
Worki ng with Construction Drawings. · … 24
Anatomy of a Shed . · .. .. 26
Lumber & Hardware . · … 27
Building Foundations … … … . · … 28
Fram ing the Structu re … .. 40 Lean-to Too l Bin … .. … 114 Convenience Shed … .. 124
Siding & Trim … .. … . … 62
Doors & Windows … … … . • … … … … … .. 70
Ramps, Steps & Decks … . … … … •......... . 74
Shed projects … … … … … . 84 Clerestory Studio … . 86 Gambrel Garage … … 138 Simple Storage Shed … 154 Sunlight Garden Shed · … 100
Lea n-to Tool Bin … … . • … 11 4
Convenience Shed . · .. . 124
Gambrel Garage… … … … … 138
Simple Storage Shed … ....... 154
Gothic Playhouse … … … … … … … … 166 Timbe r-frame Shed … .. 180 Timber-frame Shed … … … … … … … … … . 180
Service Shed … .. … .. … 192
Metal & Wood Kit Sheds … … 202
Shed with Firewood Bin … … ... 220
Additional Shed Plans . … . , … … 230 Resources & Credits … . … … … 236 Index … 238 Service Shed. … . … 192 Metal & wood Kit Sheds . .. .202
I
Introduction T he contemporary backyard shed is muc h more than a place to park the law n rnmver. Sheds are still grea t for storage, of co urse, but many homeowners are flndin g added va lue in the ir sheds’ less ta ngible qual ities- privacy, perso nal exp ression, a connectio n to the o utdoors. Pe rhaps mos t of all, peop le like th e separation from the ma in house. A shed is th e perfect place to forget you r duti es or you r day job a nd spen d a fe w hours abso rbed in a hobby. For mclllY, it’s an open invi tatio n to come o ut and play in th e dirt. Keepi ng in m ind th at every s hed ca n have a nmge of uses, the c ustom bu ildings in thi s book a re designed to be versa til e, prac ti cal, and ada ptabl e. They’ re a lso designe d for good looks. In terms of prope rty val ue, a shed can be e ithe r a n asset o r a li a bi lity. Eve ryo ne ca n pi cture th e fa m ili a r di lap idated t in shed ,vith doors hangin g by one w heel a nd propped sh ut with conc re te blocks . T hi s is a wo rl d a part fro m a handsome building with solid proportions an d fittin g a rchi te ctural de tails . A well -bu ilt shed ca n evoke t he cha rac ter of a m iniature house or a small, private ca bin or playhouse. A shed can be an appealing outdoor retreat a nd a so lid comple me nt to yo ur home’s landscape. You can acq uire a DI Y shed in o ne of t\VO ways: bui ld it fro m sc ratc h or buy a kit shed made for easy assembly. This boo k covers both opt io ns. Eac h of the 10 custom she d projects includes a co mpl ete set of co nstructi o n dra w ings, a detailed materials list, a nd step-by-ste p inst ru ctions an d photos for building th e shed fro m th e g round u p. For th ose who pre fer the easy-asse mb ly route, th e re’s a full d isc ussio n of c hoosing a ki t shed , plus two projects shm’ving th e bas ic steps fo r asse mblin g popu lar kit bu ild ings . If you don ‘t have a lot of experie nce wit h ca rpentry, don ‘t worry- th e Bui lding Bas ics sec tion of th e book wa lks you t h rough th e entire co nstruction process . It wi ll a lso help you c hoose th e right foundation fo r your s hed and give you t he knowledge to make custom substitu tion s to t he projects as shown . Many shed kits in vo lve a fair amount of freehand \vork, as \ve ll , so you’re covered even if your kit comes wit hou t roofing o r a floor. One of t he best aspects of building a shed is that it does n’t disrupt da ily life in yo ur home. This makes the project infinitely more pleas urable th an, say, a co m plete kitche n re mode l. So take your time, e njoy t he process , und loo k forward to years of ge ttin g away from it a ll. You’ll find tha t ge tting eve n a fe-’ ya rd s away is some thin g special.
• 5I
Essential Outbuildings sk <1 dozen peop le what they wo uld do with a A bas ic shed in the ir backyard a nd you ‘re bound to hear as many di fferent answers. Some wo u ld ce rtai nly usc the outbu ilding fo r storage- yard and garden supplies, play equ ipment, bicycles, clll d other spi llover items fro m the garage. Others wo uld claim th e shed fo r more specific purs u its: raising exotic flowers, turn ing pottery, wa tchi ng spo rts on a big-screen T V. Some may eve n imagine th e shed as a fu ll y equ ipped home office Of, go ing in the opposite d irection, a sim p le, quiet retreat for reading and medi tat ion. Regardless of the answers you get, one note \vou ld ring true: Eac h person could picture himse lf in t hat sa me building, doing his own thing and Il lling the space with personal stuff. T hat’s v,fhat shed s are a ll about. Like a house, a good shed offe rs more t han shelter a nd square footage; it’s a lso an opportuni ty fo r self-exp ress ion . Pe rhaps best of a ll, a shed offers t he addit iona l advantage of privacy. You do n’t have to c lean it up for guests or wo rry about tracking mud on the ca rpet. And if you set it up just right, you v.,ron’t eve n hear the doorbe ll ringing in t he ho use (“Sorry, I m ust have been ou t in my works hop … ”). The fo ll owing pages feat u re backyard shed s of a ll desc ri ptio ns a nd for any number of pe rsona l uses. See if you can pictu re yourself in some of the m . Then try to identify features th at make those s heds spec ial to you. Chances a rc, you can apply th ose sa me ideas when bu ilding you r own backyard getaway.
Whether it’s perched at the water’s edge or tucked away in the trees, a well -appointed outbUilding can feel a lot like a vacation home.
• 7
Believe it or not, this graciously ornamented shed is easily built from a panelized kit special details like the dormer appear to be
the work of a highly skilled carpenter but can actually be assembled by the average do-it-yourselfer.
Door placement impacts a shed's appearance and Its No need to get fancy. This humble shed has plenty of charm
interior layout This centralized door flanked with windows and blends perfectly With its surroundings.
transforms an ordinary shed into a quaint cottage.8 • THE CO~!IP LETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORARY SHED S
Designed to suit the setting, this shed’s rustic materials and antique windows add an air of timelessness and easy country living.
Garden folly, playhouse, or work of art? Any of those would be an accurate description. And you can bet the owners had fun building this one.
EsseHlialOulhuildillgs • 9
While kit sheds are based on efficient,
modern building concepts, you can still
find them in traditional styles With nice,
custom details, such as this metal roof.Shed kit seliers offer a range of accessories and details for adding a custom touch to your shed, Including practical add-ons like window flower boxes and decorative trim.
10 • T H E COM PLETE GUID E TO CONT EM PORA IW SH ED S
A deep roof overhang adds character
but also shelters windows from hot
midday sun- an important consideration
for working sheds.
,Not everyone wants a large, freestanding building In Integrating a shed into a patio plan can help define the the backyard. Plenty of kit sheds are designed for discreet space, block unwanted views, and provide shade and handy placement against a house wall or a tall fence. storage for patio items.
EsseHlialOulhuildillgs • 11
A traditional saltbox shed may
look complicated but is nothing more
than a simple gabled building with a
shed-style addition.
This handsome shed demonstrates how a little trim and some custom details, such as window boxes, shutters, a dutch door,
and a chimney, can turn a basic gable structure into something extraordinary12 • T H E COM PLETE GUI DE TO CONTEM PORA IW SH ED S
In this abundant garden setting, two gambrel-roofed buildings evoke the farming traditions of the American landscape.
Knotty pine paneling and roof sheathing were given a diluted whitewash to create a rustic yet elegan t backdrop for this inviting country shed interior.
EsseHlialOulhuildillgs • 13
The most beloved sheds tend to fill
up over time, reflecting the passions and
philosophies of their owners.Cedar shingles and open eaves create a seaside-cottage feeling in this shed, even in the middle of a wooded lot.
14 • T H E COMPLETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORA IW SHEDS
The tranquil and graceful character of ASian garden structures has inspired countless western designers.
EsseH lialOulhuildillgs • 1516 • T H E COM PLETE GUID E TO CONT EM PORA IW SHED S
On the outside, th is artist’s retreat displays the proud utility of classic New England architecture (left), while the lovingly decorated interior (this page) bears the personal mark of its owners. With the finished ceiling, fireplace, and double-hung windows, this furnished shed functions as a guest house.
EsseHlialOulhuildillgs • 17
Because sheds are relatively small,
materials upgrades, such as cedar
shingles instead of asphalt roofing or
plywood siding, can stili be affordable.used as a sun room in cooler weather, this shed greatly enhances the function and beauty of th is outdoor gathering place.
18 • T H E CO M PLETE GUIDE TO CONT EM PORA IW SHEDS
Greenhouses have inspired many versatile shed designs. Windows on the roof bring in plentiful light for growing.
EsseHlialOulhuildillgs • 19I
Building Basics lmos t everything yo u’ve ever \‘anted to kno”v abou t A bu ild ing a shed is in this section. Each element of the construc tion project is covered in deta il- fro m selecting a site to bu il ding the foundatio n to framing t he Aoor, \Ved is, an d roof. You’ ll also learn <Jbout buy in g lumber <:I nd hard\vare. After your shed is b uilt, ret urn to this section for help w ith add ing a ram p, deck, or ste ps . Because th e va ri olls elements are presented a la carte , you can pic k an d choose t he designs and materi als you like best. For the foundat ion, it makes sense to choose a type based on the shed’s location. Severa l drawings in th is book call for a \vooden slUd foundation (which is the easiest to bui ld), but a concrete bloc k founda tion may be a better choice fo r a sloping site. Be Slife to have your project plans approved by the local bu ild ing department before starting co nstruction . This is espec ially impo rtant if you’re makin g substit utions to the plans featured in the Shed Projects section.
In This Chapter: • Choosing a Site for Your Shed • Working w ith Construction Draw ings • Anatomy of a Shed • Lumber & Hardw are • Building Foundations • Framing the Structure • Roofing • Siding & Trim • Doors & Window s • Ramps , Steps & Decks
• 21I Choosing a Site for Your Shed T he first step in choosi ng a site for your building doesn’t take place in you r backya rd but at th e local building and zoning de partments. By visiting the run throu gh yo ur property. Often, local ordinances a nd utility compa ni es requi re that lines a re marked before digging. This is an esse ntial step not only departme nts, or making calls, you s hould determine because of legalities , but also because you do n’t a few thin gs abollt yo ur project before making any \vant yo ur building si ttin g over lines that Illay de nnite plan s. iVlost importantly, find Ollt .v hether need repair. your proposed building will be a llowed by zon in g Setback requirements: Most zonin g laws dictate regulations an d w hat specifi c res tri c tio ns a ppl y to yo ur that all buildings, fences, e tc ., in a yard must be se t situation. Zo nin g laws govern such matters as the size back a spec ific distance from the property line. T hi s and he ight of the bUilding and the percentage of your setback may range from 6” to 3 feet or more. property it occupies, the building’s location , Clnd its Neighbors: To prevent civil unrest, o r eve n a fe\’ position rel ative to the hOllse, neighboring properties, “veeks of igno red greetings, talk to you r neighbors the street, e tc. about you r project. From the building s ide of things, as k if yo u need View from the house: Do you wan t to a dmire a permit to build your st ru cture. [f so, you’ ll have to you r handi,vork from the dinner ta ble, or wo uld submit plan drawings (photocopied plans from this you prefer that you r outbuilding blend in with t he book should suffice), as wcll as specifica tion s for the outdoors? A pl ay hou se in p lai n view makes it easy to foundation and materia ls an d esti mated cost. Once check o n th e kids. your project is a pproved , you may need to buy a permit to display on th e building site, a nd you may be required to show you r -vo rk at scheduled inspections. Setback Because outbuildings are detached a nd freestanding, codes typica ll y gove rn them loose ly. Many impose restrictions or require permits only on ” "" st ru ctures larger than 100, or even 120 , square feet. "" Others drmv the line ,v ith th e type of founda tion used. [n so me areClS, buildings \vith concrete s lClb or pier foundati on s are classifi ed as “perma ne nt” and thu s a re su bjec t to a spec ific set of res tri c tion s (and taxation, in some cases), while buildings th at a re se t on skids a nd ca n- in th eo ry at least- be moved are cons idered tempo rary or accessory and may be exe mp t from the genera l building codes. Once you get the gree n light from the local lin~ s ,, authorities, yo u CCln tro mp around you r yard vv ith ,, , a tape measure an d sta ke yo ur claim for th e new ,,, building. Of cou rse, you’ll have plenty of personal , :, an d practical reasons for placing th e building , in a particular a rea, but he re arc a few ge ne ral :, , cons id erations to keep in m ind: Soil & drainage: To e nsu re that yo ur foundation will last (whateve r type it is), plant you r building on sol id so il , in an ClreCl th at vvon’t collect \vater. Access: For trucks, vv heelbarrovvs, kid s, etc. Do you wa nt access in a ll seasons? Utility lin es : Contact loca l ordinances to find out where th e water, gas, septic, and e lectrical lines
22 • T H E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORA IW SHEDS
I Siting for Sunlight Like ho uses, sheds can benefit eno rmously from natu ra l light. Bringing su nli ght into you r backya rd ofnce, works hop, or garden house makes the i nterior June 22 space brighter an d warmer, a nd it’s the best: thi ng fo r
,,.co mba ti ng CI boxy feel. To make the most of natura l ligh t, t he ge ne ra l ru le is to o rie nt th e buildi ng so its •,, Mar/ Sept 22
lo ng side (or the side wit h th e most ,v indows) faces
...
\
\ ~ -so ut h. Hmveve r, be su re to consider t he sun’s pos itio n \ "" at all times of the yea r, as wel l as th e shadO,vs your , .,’ •I
, . .. '
y. I
,,,shed mig ht cast on su rrou nd ing a reas, suc h as a , I garden or outdoor si tt ing a rea. L-o—.- -.., .’ I Dec 22
SEASONAL CHANGES , ., …,..’” ----- . .. • … . • . ..,.. I … . . • … .. .. Each day the sun c rosses the sky CIt a sl ightly d iffe rent I I • angle, moving fro m its high poi n t in sum mer to its low I I poin t in ,vinte r. Shadows change accord ingly. In the , I
su m mer, shadows fo\l m·v th e east·\vest axis and are ve ry , ,, short at m idday. \A!inte r shadows poi nt to t he northeast ,, and nort hwest a nd a rc rela t ively lo ng at m idday. Gene rally, the south side of a buil di ng is exposed to ” su nlight throughout the year, whil e the north side may be shaded in fall, winter, and spring. Geographical location is <:I lso <:I factor: <:IS you move nort h from the equator, th e cha nges in the su n’s p<:lth become more ex treme. The sun moves from its high point in summer to its low pOint in winter. Shadows change accordingly.
Summer
afternoon
Summer
evening
Winter
afternoon
Winter
evening :x:
:x:
Winter
morning
Summer
morningShadows follow the east-west axis in the summer. Winter shadows point to the northeast and northwest and are relative ly long at midday.
BlIihii llg Basics • 23I Working with Construction Drawings
T he projec ts in t his book include com plete
construction drawings in t he style of arch itectural
blue prints. If yo u’re not fa miliar wi th reading plans,
Note: TIle drawings i-It this hooh are accurately
proportioned, but they are not sized to a specific scale.
Also, di1llensio’Hs specified in the drawings are given
don’t worry; they’re easy to use once YO LI kn ow how in feet and inches (for exa1/lple, 6’-8”), the standard
to look at the d ifferent views. Flip ping back and forth jonllot for architectural plan.s. For your convenience, the
benvee n the pla n drawings and the project’s s tepbys te p written instructions may give dimensions in inch.es so
photos \vill help you visua li ze the actua l structure. you don’t h.ave to make th.e conversion.
~_-- Wood shakes
_ - - - Roof hub
2 x 8 Hip rolter beyond
2 x 8 Intermediate rofter beyond
Eave detail
Floor beams
(2)2 x 8 x 8 Treated (enter
pier pad - shim to proper height
Concrete pier
12" Dio. poured (onuete
pier - extend below irostline
The building section is the most comprehensive drawing, giving you a side view of the structure sliced in half down the
middle. It shows both the framing and finish elements.24 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORA IW SHEDS
r-
I
r - fJ ,..-
1:'---
r--= r:=i,--
~Q
1'---
v--Elevations give you a direct, exterior view of the building from all sides. Drawings may include elevations for both the framing and the exterior finishes.
Plan views are overhead views looking
straight down from above the structure.
Floor plans show the layout of the walls
or upright supports, with the top half of
the structure sliced off. There are also
foundation plans, roof framing plans, and
other plan views.
Detail drawings and templates
show a close-up of a specific area or
----=-dil~~-- part of the structure. They typically show
a side or overhead view.I Anatomy of a Shed Shown as a c uta way, this shed ill ust rates man y ]. Foundation- inc luding preparing t he site an d of the s tand a rd building co m ponents an d how addin g a d ra inage bed; t hey fit toget her. It can also hel p you u nd ers ta nd 2. Fr”m ing- th e floo r is nrst , fo llowed by the wa lls, t he major co nst ru ct ion stages- eac h project t hen the roof; in thi s book incl udes a s pec ific cons tru ctio n 3. Roollng- add ing shea thing, building pa pe r, a nd seq ue nce, but mos t fo ll ow th e standard stages in roofl ng material; some fo rm : 4. Exterio r flni s hcs- inc luding siding, trim, a nd doo rs a nd windows.
Common
Roof sh"athin.~
overhang rafter
Building
Roof shingles
Drip
Cripple
stud
King
stud
Jack
stud
Floor frame
Foundation skid26 • T H E COM PL ETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PO RA IW SHEDS
I Lumber & Hardware L umbe r types most commo nl y used in outbuildings are pine- or re lated softwoods- or cedar, which is natu ra ll y rot- res istan t a nd is less ex pens ive t h eln most corrosio n-resistant. T he best all-aro und choice for nai ls and screws is hot-d ipped galvan ized steel, recogn izable by its rough, dull -silver coating. Hot-dipped faste ne rs ot he r rot- res ista nt “vood s. For pine to be rot-res is tan t , generally hold up better than th e smoother, e lec troplated it mllst be press ure-treated , typi call y w it h a c he mi ca l types, and they’re th e recomme nded c hoice for mixture called CCA (C h ro ma te d Coppe r Arsenate ). press ure-trea ted lumbe r. Alumi num and stain less steel are Pressu re- treated lu mbe r is cheape r than cedar, but it’s other materia ls suitab le for outdoor exposu re; howeve r, not as attractive, so you may want to usc it only in areas alu m inum faste ners corrode some types of treated lu m ber. w he re appearance is unimportant. Pl yvvood des ignated as vVh ile expensive, stainless steel is the best guaran tee exterior-grade is made wi th layers of cedar or treated wood agai nst stai ning from fasteners on cedar an d redw·ood. a nd a specia l glue tha t makes it weather-resista nt. For A nother type of hardwa re you’ll fi nd throughout the long fun, though, it’s a good idea to cove r any exposed t hi s book is the metal anc hor, or fra m ing co nn ec to r, pl)’,,‘ood edges to prevent \vate r intrusion. used to re info rce v,lood framin g connec tions. A ll Fram in g lumber- typica lly pine o r press ure-t rea ted of th e a ncho rs call ed for in the pla ns a re S impso n pi ne----comes in a fe\’ d iffere nt grades: Selec t Struc tura l Strong~Ti e® bran d (see Reso urces), w hi c h a re ava ila bl e (SEL STR), C ons truction (C O NST) o r Standard at most lumbe rya rds a nd home cente rs. If you ca n’t (STAND), an d Utility (UT IL) Fo r most a pplica tion s, find vvhat yo u need o n t he shel ves , look thro ug h one of Co nstruction Grade No.2 offers the bes t balance t he manufacturer’s catal ogs o r visit the man u fact u rer’s bet\veen quality a nd pri ce. Utili ty grade is a lower-cost \ve bsite. Yo u ca n a lso o rder c u stom-m ade hange rs. lumbe r suitable fo r blocking and similar uses but Keep in mind that meta l ancho rs are e ffec ti ve only sho uld no t be used for structura l mem be rs, s uch as if they arc insta lled co rrectly- a lways follow t he stud s and rafte rs . You ca n also buy “STU D” lumber: ma nufactu re r’s insta ll a tion ins tru ctions, and usc co nstructio n-grade 2 x 4s c ut at t he stan dard stud exactly the type and numbe r of faste ne r recommended. le ngt h of 92%”. Note: Treated lU1Itber stwuld be left Final ly, app lyin g a finish to you r project w ill he lp exposed for approxiJltately 6 ‘lIJ.onths before applying protect the wood from rot , fading a nd di sco loration, finishes. Finishes will not adhere well to treated lumber an d insec ts. Pine or s im ilar untreated lumbe r mu st t1wt is still very green or wet. Lumber manufacturers liheLy have a protec ti ve finish if it’s exposed to the e lements, have recO’lltJllended ti-III.es for their product. but even ceda r is s usce ptible to rot over tim e an d w ill Boa rd lumber, o r fi ni sh lumbe r, is g raded by turn gray if left ba re. If you pa int the wood, apply a qua lity a nd appearance, with the main cri teria being primer first- thi s helps th e paint stic k an d makes it last the numb er a nd size of kno ts presen t. “C lea r” pine, for longe r. If yo u wan t to preserve th e na tu ra l wood g ra in, exam ple , has no knots. use a stain or clea r nnish. AJ llumbe r has a nomi nal dime nsio n (w hat it’s ca ll ed ) and an ac tual dime nsio n (what it actually measures). A c hart on page 237 shO,,,s the differences For some common lumber sizes. Lumber that is greater than 4” thi ck (nomi na lly) generally is referred to as timber. De pe nd ing on its surface texture and type, a ti mber may actually measu re to its nom ina l di mens ions, so check th is o ut before buying. Ceda r lumber also va ries in size, de pe nd ing o n its s urface texture. S4S (S urfaced-Four-Sides) lu m ber is milled smooth on all sides a nd follows the standard dime nsio ning, wh ile boards with one or more rough surfaces can be over 1,1;” thi c ke r. vV he n selecting hardware for yo ur project, remem be r one thing: All nails, sc rews, bolts, hinges, and a nchors that \~II be exposed to wea the r or rest on conc rete A combination of sheet stOCk, appearance-grade lumber, or th at co me in contact wit h treated lumbe r must be and structural lumber is used in most sheds.
BlI ihiillg Basics • 27I Building Foundations our shed’s foundation provides a level, stab le Y structure to bui ld upon and protects the bUi lding fro m moisture a nd erosion. In this sectio n you’ ll lea rn department to learn w hat’s al lowed in your area. Some foundations, suc h as concrete slabs, m ay c laSS ify s heds as per manent structures, how to bu il d Rve of the most co mm on types of shed wh ic h can affect prope rty taxes, among ot h e r foundat ion s. All but the concrete p ier fo u ndat io n are consequences. Hes ide n ts in many areas may “o n- grade” designs, meani ng they are bu ilt on top of need to insta ll spec ial ti e-dow n s or gro und t he g round and can be subject to rising and 100vc ring anc hors accord ing to loca l laws . If your building a few inches du ring seasona l freezing and t haw ing department requ ires a “frost-p roof’ fou ndation (so of the u nderlying soi l. This usual ly is n’t a problem the bui lding won’t move with the freezing ground ), s ince a shed is a sma ll , freestand ing structure that’s you s hou ld be ab le to pass inspection by bui ld ing not attac he d to other buildi ngs. H ov,lever, it ca n yo u r s hed on co n crete piers (see page 32). Note: adversely affect some inter ior Il n is hes (wall boa rd, I-nfoflllation for fanning, reinforcing, and bracin.g fo r exa m p le ). deeper foundation. walls is Hot included here. A safe Whe n c hoosi ng a foundat ion type for rnle of thulltb is th.at tile depth required to get below yo u r shed, conside r t he spec ific s ite a nd the the frost li.ne in cold climates is 4 feet, though colder performance qua li ties of a ll sys tems in va rious places like Canad” and Alaska can have frost depth.s c li mates; t hen check w ith the loca l b ui ld ing up to 8 feet.
I Wooden Skid Foundation
A skid fou ndation couldn't be Si m ple r: t",/o or more treated cl imates. Ofte n a s hed that has risen out of level w ill
wood beams or landscape ti mbers (typ ically 4 X 4, 4 x 6, co rrect itself with the spr ing thaw, bu t if it doesn't, you
or 6 X 6) set on a bed of gravel. T he gravel provides a fiat, can lift t he s hed wi t h jacks on the low side and add
stable surface that drains we ll to help keep the timbers dl)'. gravel beneat h t he sk ids to level it .
O nce the skids are set, the floor fmme is buil t on top of
them a nd is ml iled to the skjds to keep everythi ng in place.
Bu ild ing a skid Fo un datio n is merely a matte r of
prepari ng the gravel base, th e n cutting, se tt ing, and Tools & Materials ~
leve ling the tim bers. The tim bers you use must be
ra ted for grou nd contact . It is customary, but purely S hove l Circu lar sa\v
optiona l, to make angled cuts on the ends of t he Rake Square
skids- these add a m inor decorat ive touc h and make it 4-ft. level Treated wood t imbers
easier to skid t he shed to a new location, if necessary. Straight, 8-ft. 4 x 4 Compac ti ble gravel
Because a skid fou ndat ion sits o n t he gro un d, it is Ha nd tampe r ''''ood scaler-preserva ti ve
s u bject to sl igh t s h ifting due to frost in cold-wea th er
I How to Build a Wooden Skid Foundation
STEP 1: PREPARE THE GRAVEL BASE straight, 8-ft .-long 2 x 4 . Rake the gravel until it is
A. He move 4" of so il in a n area abo ut 12" w ide r a nd fairly level.
lo nge r tha n t he d imens ions of the bu ild ing. C. Tamp the grave l thoroughly using a ha nd tamper
B. Fill t he excava ted area with a 4" laye r of or a re nted plate co m pactor. As you vm rk, c heck
compactible gravel. Rake t he gravel smooth, the surface w ith the board and level, and add or
then check it fo r level us in g a 4-ft. level and a remove grave l u nt il t he surface is leve l.28 • T H E COMPLETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORA IW SHEDS
Excavate the building site and add a
4" layer of compactible gravel. Level, then
tamp the gravel with a hand tamper or
rented plate compactor (inset).STEP 2: CUT & SET THE SKIDS STEP 3 : LEVEL THE SKIDS A. Cut the skids to le ngth, using a c irc ular s;:wv or A. Leve l one of the ou tside skids, adding or rec ip rocatin g saw. (Sk ids typi call y run parallel to removing gravel from underneath. Set the level the length of th e building a nd are cu t to the sa me parallel a nd level the skid a long its length , then dimension as the Aoor frame. ) set th e level perpe ndi cu lar an d level t he skid B. To angle-cut th e ends, measure down I Y21! to 211 alo ng its widt h. from the top edge of eac h skid. Use a squa re to B. Place the straight 2 x 4 a nd level across the erst mark a 45 ° cu tt ing line down to the botto m edge. a nd seco nd ski ds, the n adjust the seco nd skid then make th e c uts. un til it’s level \vi th the fi rst. lVlci ke SLI re the seco nd C. Coat the cut e nds of the slcids “‘.lith a wood sealer- skid is level along its vvidth. preservative a nd let them dry. C. Leve l t he re ma ini ng sk id s in th e same fashion , D. Set the skids on th e grave l so t hey are pa ra lle l an d then set th e board a nd level ac ross a ll of t he their en ds arc even. Make sure th e outer skids arc sk ids to ma ke su re t hey they a re leve l w ith spaced accord in g to the \liclth of t he building. one a not her.
If desired, mark and clip the bottom corners of the skid ends. using a board and a level, make sure each skid is level Use a square to mark a 45 angle cut. 0 along its width and length, and is level with the other skids.
BlIihiillg Basics • 29I Concrete Block Foundation Concrete block foundatio ns are easy and inexpensive (vv ith lu m ber or asphalt sh ingles ) the fo undatio n up to to build . In terms of si mp li city, a block foundation is level. Setting the blocks on smal l beds of gravel helps second only to the wooden skid. But the real beauty of prevent eros io n or excess water fro m underm ining th is design is its abi lity to accommodate a sloping site: the foundat ion. Avoid excavating and rell iling A ll you have to do is add blocks as needed to make the beneath the blocks other than to create a base fo r fOllndatio n leveL compactib le gravel, as that m ay lead to settling. Note: Blocks suitable for foundat ions are commonly All reinforcing steel (bars, mesh, or anchor bolts) should ava ilab le at ho me centers and masonry suppl ie rs. have a mini’lltulll of 1Y2”concre te cover. Without this 11 Standard blocks measure 8 X 16” and come in 211 and 4 cover, steel will likely rust and cause spalling of concrete. th icknesses . Be sure to usc only so li d concrete blocks, not rcgular bu ilding block- the kind with large voids for fil ling v’lith concrete. A lso avo id t he various types of decorative block, which may have holes or odd shapes Tip ~ and probctbly won’t be strong enough for th is application. On a level site, YOLI ca n lise a Single 41!-t hick block for each support point. O n a slope, a co m hi natio n of 4” and 2” bloc ks should ge t yo u close e no ugh to shim
Tools & Materials ~
Mason's li nes & stakes Solid conc rete bl ocks
Excavation tools Aspha lt shingles or
Hand tamper I X 8 p rcssu re-
2- ft . level treated lumber,
A 2 x 8 mud sill adds strength to a standard 2 x 6
4-ft. level as needed
floor frame. First, you fasten the side rim joists to
Long, straight 2 X 4 Construction the sill, then you set the assembly on top of the
Cau lkj ng gun ad hesive foundation blocks and install the remaining floor
Com pact ible gravel jOists.
A foundation created with solid concrete
blocks on a prepared base is simple to
build and makes an easy solution to
dealing with low slopes.30 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORA IW SHEDS
I How to Build a Concrete Block Foundation STEP 1: PREPARE THE SITE A. Using four mason’s lines t ied to stakes, plot the fo undation layout. T he foundation exterior should equa l the outer dimensions of the floor frame. Use the 3-4-5 me th od to e nsure pe rfect ly sq uare byollt lines. B. l~a rk the bl ock locations onto th e stri ngs, an d t hen onto the ground: Locate t he co rn e r blocks at th e string inte rsections, and locate th e intermed iate blocks at equa l inte rva ls between the corner blocks. For a n 8 x 10-ft. or 8 x 12-ft. shed, one row of fou r b locks (or block stacks) running do wn eac h s ide of t he shed is sufficient. create a bed of compacted gravel centered at each block C. Remove th e maso n’s li nes, but leave the stakes in location in your layout. p lace . At each bloc k location dig a 16 X 20” ho le tha t is 4” deep. Tamp the soi l. D. Add a laye r of compactib le grave l in eac h hole and tamp \vell, adding grave l if necessary to bring the top of the gravel up to grade. Tamp a ll added grave l.
STEP 2: SET THE BLOCKS A. For the first b lock, rc ti e th e maso n’s lines. At the hi ghest point on t he gravel bcd, squa re up a 4”-th ick block to th e layou t lines. B. Leve l the block in bot h directions, add ing or removing gravel as needed . C. Tape a 4-ft. level to t he cen te r of a long, straight 2 x 4. Set a block at the highest point on the site, check it with D. Set lip eac h of th e rema in ing blocks or bloc k a level, and adjust as needed. (Inset) Use a level and board stacks, using the level an d 2 X 4 spanni ng from spanning across the blocks to establish the height of each t he first block to ga uge the proper heigh t. Sta rt stack so all the tops are level. eac h stack wi th a 4”-thick block, an d make sure the b lock itse lf is level before add in g more b locks. Use 2” b loc ks as needed to add he ight, or s h im stacks “l ith tri mm e d pieces of asphalt shi ngles or I x 8 pressure-treated lumber. E. Use th e level a nd 2 X 4 to make su re a ll of t he blocks and stacks are leve l with one a not her.
STEP 3: GLUE THE BLOCK STACKS A. G lue sta c ked bl ocks together with co nstruc ti on ad hes ive. Also glue [lny shi m material to the tops of th e blocks. B. Afte r gl uing, c heck to make su re a ll blocks a nd stacks are level wit h one ano th er, and that they a re on the layout lines, th e n remove th e stri ngs Bind stacked blocks together with exterior-rated an d stakes. construction adhesive to prevent shifting.
BlIihiillg Basics • 31I Concrete Pier Foundation Foundatio n p iers are pou red co ncrete cylinders that Slire to co nsu lt yo ur loca l bu ilding departme n t for you for m using card boa rd tubes . T he tubes come in the recommended or requi red anchori ng specifications. severa l diameters and are commo nl y availab le from Pie rs that exte nd be low t he frost line- t he ground bu ilding materials supp liers. For a standard 8 x 10-ft. depth to wh ich the earth freezes each winter- wi ll shed, a su itable fou ndat io n consists of one row of kee p yo ur shed fro m sh ift ing during annuul freeze- 11 th ree 8 -diameter piers fu nning dO’VIl the lo ng sides t haw cyc les. T hi s is a stcllldu rd requ irement for of th e shed. mujo r st ructures, like houses, bu t not typ icall y Yo u can a nc hor the shed’s floor fra me to the pie rs fo r Freesta nd ing sheds (check ,vith you r bu ild ing llsing a va ri ety of methods. T he simp lest met hod department ), Anot her adva ntage of t he pier foun dation (shown he re) is to bo lt a wood block to t he top of each is th a t you can extend t he piers wel l above the ground pier, th e n faste n t he floor frame to t he blocks . Other to accom modate a s loping site . Note: All concrete anc hori ng options invo lve metal post bases and va ri ous sh01dd have contpacted gravel utu:lerneath and aga;-nst fram ing connectors e it her set into t he \vet concrete or bach walls as bachfill. All reinforcing steel shoHld have fastened to the piers after the concrete has cu red. Be a ntinimum of J Y2 ” concrete cover.
32 • T H E COMPLETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORA IW SHEDS
I How to Build a Concrete Pier Foundation Tools & Materials ~ C ircu lar saw Shovel 2 W’ scrc\vs Conc rete mix Drill Post hol e digger Stakes J-bo lts wit h washers Mason’s line Rec iprocating sm’ Nails and nuts Sledgehammer or handsaw Masking tape 2 X 10 pressu re· trea ted Line level Ut ility kni fe Cardboa rd lumber (rated for Framing squa re Ratc het w re nch concrete forms grou nd contac t) Plumb bob 2 x 4 lumber Pape r
STEP 1: CONSTRUCT THE BATTER BOARDS STEP 2 : SET THE BATTER BOARDS A. Cu t two 24”- long 2 X 4 legs for each batte r boa rd & ESTABLISH PERPENDICULAR (for most projects you ‘ll need eig ht batter boards MASON’S LINES tota l). Cut one end squa re and cut t he other end to A. Measure and ma rk t he locations of t he four corner a s harp point, using a circ ul ar saw. Cut one 2 x 4 piers wi th stakes, following your project p lan. crosspiece fo r each bCltter board at ctbout l8”, B. Set two batter boa rd s to form a co rn e r a bo ut B. Asse mble c<:Ich batter bOClrd lIsing 2 W’ sc rews. 18” be h ind eac h sta ke. Dri ve the ba tt e r Fasten the crossp iece about 2” from the square boards into th e gro und un ti l t hey are sec ure , e nds of the legs. fvJake sure the legs are para ll el keepi ng the c ro ss pi eces rough ly leve l w ith and t he crosspiece is perpendi cu lar to the legs. one a nother.
(continued)
BlI ihiillg Basics • 33Cut the batter board pieces from 2 x 4 lumber and Tie the mason’s lines securely to the nails, and level the assemble them with screws. lines with a line level (inset, left). Use tape to mark paints on the lines (inset, light).
C. St retc h a maso n’s line between t\·vo batter boards C. Plu mb down with a plumb bob and place a sta ke at opposing co rn e rs (not di agona ll y) and tic the directly under eac h li ne intersection. iVla rk the e nd s to neli ls dri ve n in to the top edge of t he locatio ns of inte rmedi ate piers onto the layout st rings, crossp ieces; align th e nai ls and li ne wit h t he the n plumb down <Jnd drive sta kes at those locations. sta kes. Attac h a li ne leve l to th e line, a nd pu ll th e D. Untie eac h line at one e nd onl y, th e n co il th e line line very taLlt , making Sli re it’s level before tying it. an d place it out of th e way. Leaving one e nd ti ed D. liu n a second level line perpendicu la r to th e wil l make it easie r to restring the lines la te r. first: Tie off th e end that’s closest to t he first strin g, then stretch th e line to the opposing batter STEP 4: SET THE FORMS board w hil e a he lper holds a framing sguare at A. Dig ho les for the forms, centering them aroun d the intersection of th e lines. ‘VVhen the lines are t he stakes. The ho les shoul d be a few inches pe rpendicu lar, drive a nail an d t ie off th e far e nd. larger in diameter t ha n th e card boa rd for ms. T he E. Confi rm that t he lines are exactly pe rpe nd icular, hole depth rn ust rneet the loca l b u ildin g code llsing th e 3A -5 me th od : Startin g at th e req ui re me nts- ad d 4 ” to t he de pth to a ll ow fo r intersection , measu re 3 ft. a long one string a layer of gravel. For deep ho les, use a posthole and ma ke a m a rk onto a pi ece of masking tape. digge r or a rented powe r auger. Add 4 II of gravel Mark the oth e r st rin g 4 ft. fro m the inte rsec tion. to t he bottom of eac h hole. Meas ure diagonally between the two marks; B. Cut each cardboa rd form so it will extend at least the distance sho uld eq ual 5 ft. lieposition th e 3” above th e grou nd . The tops of all pie rs/ forms seco nd st ring, if necessary, unti l the di agona l sho uld be level wit h eac h othe r. Also, th e top me<Jsure ment is 5 ft. e nds of the forms m ust be strai ght, so place th e fac tory-c ut e nd up , w henever possib le. Ot herwise, STEP 3: MARK THE FOOTING LOCATIONS ma rk a straight c utting li ne usi ng a large piece A. Foll owin g yo u r plan , meas ure from the exis ting of pa pe r vv ith at least one straight edge : \J\lrap lines and use the 3-4-5 method to ad d two more th e pa pe r completely arou nd t he for m so t hat it pe rp endi cu lar lines to form a layou t with four overlaps itse lf a few inches. Pos ition the straigh t 90° corners. Use th e li ne level to make su re t he edge of the paper on the cutting mark, and al ign mason’s lines a re level. The in tersectio ns of th e t he overl a ppi ng e dges of th e pape r with each other. lines sho uld mark th e centers of the co rn er p ie rs, iVlark aro und the tub e alo ng th e edge of the paper. not necessa ril y th e outside edge of Roo r fram ing. Cu t th e tube with a reciprocat ing saw or handsaw. B. C heck the squa re ness of you r line layout by C. Set the tubes in the holes and fill in arou nd them “oth measu ring diagonall y from corner to co rn er: vv hen di rt. Set a level across the top of each tube to make the measurements are equal, the frame is sq ua re. sure the top is level as yo u secu re the tube \A,~th dirt. iVla ke any necessary adjustme nts. Pack the dirt fi rmly, us ing a shovel handle or a stic k.
34 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORA IW SHED S
Use a plumb bob to mark the pier locations. Drive a stake Wrap paper around the form to mark a straight cutting line into the ground directly below the plumb bob pointer (Inset). Set the forms In the holes on top of a 4” gravel layer.
Fill the forms with concrete, then set the J-bolts. Check Anchor a block to each pier with a washer and nut. If with a plumb bob to make sure the bolts are centered. desired, countersink the hardware (inset).
STEP 5: POUR THE CONCRETE t he maso n’s line . Note: You can set the bolt at J Yi ll A. Hes tring the ma son’s lines an d co nfirm that the above the concrete so it will be flush with the top forms are posit ioned accurately. of the bloch, or extend it abont 2/1” so the washer B. Mix th e co nc rete follov,ring the manufact urer’s and nut will sit on top of tile block; doing the latter directio ns; pre pare on ly as muc h as YO LI ca n eas ily means you won’t have to countersink the washer and work ,vith before th e conc rete se ts . F ill each fo rm nut. Make sure the bolt is plu’lHb, then smooth the w ith co nc rete, llsin g a long stick to ta mp it dO\vn concrete around the bolt and let the concrete cnre. an d elim inate air pockets in the concrete. O verllll the form sligh tl y. STEP 6: INSTALL THE WOOD BLOCKS C. Leve l t he co nc rete by pullin g a 2 x 4 on edge A. Cut 8 X 8” square blocks f rom 2 X 10 pressure- across th e top of the form, usin g a side-to-side treate d lumber that’s rate d for ground contact. sawin g motion. Fill low s pots w ith co nc rete so B. Drill a hole for the J-bol t through the exact cen ter of that th e top is perfectly Aat. eac h bloc k; if you’re countersinlUng th e hClfd\vare, D. Set a J-bolt into the wet co ncrete in the ce nter of flrst drill a counterbore for th e was he r and nut. the form. Lower the bolt slowly, wiggling it slight ly C. Pos itio n eac h bloc k o n a pie r, th e n add a ga lva ni ze d to eliminate air pockets. Use a plumb bob to make was her a nd nu t. Use th e layo llt strings to align th e sure the bolt is al igned exactly with th e mark on blocks, then ti ghten thc nuts to secure th e blocks.
BlIihiillg Basics • 35
I Concrete Slab Foundation
The slab foundatio n commonly used for sheds is The slab shown in thi s project has a 3l;2"-thick
ca lled a sla b-o n-grade foundation. This co mbin es a interior wi th an 8 11 -wide X 8"-deep footi ng a long th e
3W'- to 4"-thick fl oor slab with an 8"- to 12"- thi ck perimeter. The top of the slab sits 4 " above gro und
perimeter foo tin g that provides ext ra s upport for th e level, or grade. T he re is a 4"-thick layer of co mpacted
wall s of the building. The whole foundation ca n be gravel underneath the slab cllld th e co nc re te is
poured at one time using a s imple \vood fOfm. rein fo rced intermtlly v.l ith a layer of 6 x 6" ''YIo we lded
Beca use they sit above gro und, slab-on-grade w ire mes h (WWM ). (In so me areas, yo u may be
found ations a rc susceptible to frost heave a nd in req uired to add rc har in the found atio n perimeter-
cold-wea th e r clima tes a rc suitabl e only for detached c heck th e loca l code. ) After th e conc re te is poured
buildings. Specific design requirements a lso vary by an d finished , 8"- long ga lva ni zed J-bo lts a rc set into th e
loca lity, so c hec k w ith the loca l building department sla b along the edges . These a rc used later to a ncho r
regarding the de pth of the slab, the meta l reinforcement t he wa ll framing to the slab. Note: ALL concrete should
required, the type an d amou nt of gravel required for have compacted graveL underneath and again.st the back
the subbase, and whether plastic or another type of wall as backfill. All reinforcing steel should ',ave a
moisture ba rrier is needed under the slab. minimum of J Y2!! concrete cover.
Btl -thick
Tools & Materials ~ perimeter
Plywood
C ircu lar S3\'V Co ncrete edge r form
Drill Co mpacti ble gravel
Mason's line 2 X 3 & 2 X 4 lumbe r
Sledgehammer I ~!I & 2Y2"
Line level deck screws
Fra min g sq ua re lI," A-C pl ywood
Shovel Sd nails
Whee l ba rrow 5 X IO-ft. wel ded wire
Re nted plate co mpacto r mesh (W'vVM )
Bolt cu tte rs 1 Y21! brick pave rs
Bull floa t J-bolts
Hand-held 2"-thick rigid
concrete float fO<:lm in s ulatio n
I How to Build a Concrete Slab Foundation
STEP 1: EXCAVATE THE SITE C. Re m ove 3Y/ of soil ove r t he inte ri or
A. Set up batter boards and run level m ason's lines po rti on of th e s la b, th en s lo pe th e
to rep resen t t he outer dimens ions of th e s lab. inner si d es of th e trenc h a t 4 5°. Set up
Use the 3-4-5 me thod to ma ke s ure your lines temporary c ro ss strin gs t o c hec k th e depth as
a re perpe ndi c ul a r, a nd c heck yo ur final layout for yo u wo rk .
squareness by measuri ng the diagona ls. D. Add a 4" layer of compactible grave l ove r
11
B. Excava te th e a rea 4 wi de r and longer t han th e t he entire excavation and rake it level.
strin g layo ut- this provides some room to work . Compact the gravel thoroughly, usi ng a ren ted
Fo r the footi ng portion a lon g the perime ter, dig a plate co m pactor. No te: 1111 areas are to be
trench that is 8" wide X 8" deep. level (fiat ).36 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORA IW SHEDS
Measure down from the layout lines and temporary cross Assemble the form pieces with 2W deck screws, then strings to check the depth of the excavation . check the inner dimensions of the form. For long runs, jOin pieces with plywood mending plates.
Drive stakes every 12” to support the form , using the Layout sheets of wire mesh, tie the rows together, then mason’s lines to make sure the form remains straight. prop up the mesh with brick pavers or metal bolsters.
STEP 2: BUILD THE FORM one e xtra stake for eac h co rn e r. Tape r one e nd of A. C ut sheets of %” A-C plyv/ood into six strips eac h stake to a point. of equal \vidth-abo u t 7 ‘lij1l, a llowing for th e B. Plaee th e form in th e tre nch and align it with the th ic kn ess of the saw blade. To m ake sure th e maso n’s lines. Dri ve a stake near the e nd of each cuts a re st raight, lise a tabl e saw or a circular saw side of the form, setting t he stake edge aga inst th e 11 and strai ghtedge. form a nd d riving dovm to 3 above grad e. B. Cu t the p lywood strips to le ngth to c reate the sides C. M easurin g down from th e mason’s lines, positio n of th e form. Cut t\VO sides 1 W I long so they can t he form 4 ” above grade. Tack th e for m to th e ove rl ap t he remain ing two sides. For sides th at are sta kes w ith part ia ll y drive n 8d na ils (driven lo nger t heln 8 ft. , joi n t\VO st rips \·v it h a me nd ing through th e form into th e stakes). Measure the plate made of sc rap plywood; faste n the plate to diagona ls to make su re the form is sq ua re a nd the back sides of th e strips with I Y.t” screws . c heck that th e top of t he form is level. Drive the C. Asse mbl e th e form by fasten ing th e corn ers nails co m ple tel y. toge ther wi th screws . T he form ‘s in ne r d ime nsio ns D. Add a stake every 12” a nd drive th e m down must equa l t he outer dim e nsio ns of the s la b. be low th e top edge of the form . Sec u re th e form ”,‘it h two Sd na ils driven into each stake. As you STEP 3: SET THE FORM work, c heck with a string line to make su re th e A. Cut 18”- long stakes from 2 X 3 lu mbe r- you’ll for m sides are straight a nd the tops are level, and need o ne sta ke for eve!), linear foot of form , p lus meas ure the diago na ls to c hec k for square. (continued)
BlIihiillg Basics • 37
Screed the concrete after filling the form , uSing two Float the slab with a bull float, then set the J-bolts at the
people to screed, wh ile a th ird fi lls low spots with a shovel. marked locations (inset).
STEP 4: ADD THE METAL REINFORCEMENT STEP 6: FINISH THE CONCRETE
A. Layou t rO\·vs of 6 X 6" lo/io we lded \·vire mes h so & SET THE J-BOLTS
the ir ends are J V/ to 2" fro m t he insides of t he A. Im mediately after sc reeding t he conc rete, make
fo rms. C ut th e mes h "v ith bo lt cutters o r heavy one pass wit h a bull floa t to smooth t he su rface.
pl ie rs, and stand on t he u n ro lled mes h as you cu t, Add small amoun ts of co ncrete to fi ll low spots
to prevent it from sp rin ging back. Ove rl ap the created by the fl oatin g, t he n smooth those a reas
shee ts of mes h by 61! a nd t ic t he m toge th er with wit h th e fl oat. Floating fo rces the aggregate down
t ic wire . and d raws t he wa ter and sa nd to the su rface .
B. Prop up the mesh wit h pieces of I Yi'-th ick bric k B. Set t he ga lvanized J-bolts into th e concrete Il-\"
pavers or me tal bolsters. The WWM should be from t he outs ide edges of the sla b (bottom should
just belov,r the center of the slab (about 2" dow n t urn in toward the slab). Work t he bol ts into t he
in a 3V2" slab). concrete by wiggling the m slightl y to e liminate ai r
C. Ma rk the layout of the J-b olts onto th e top edges pockets. The bo lts sho u ld be plum b an d prot rude
of t he form , fol lowing yo ur plan . (J-bo lts typically 2Y2" from t he slab su rface. Afte r setting eac h bolt,
a re p laced 4" to 6" from eac h corner a nd every smooth the co ncrete arou nd the bolt, using a
3 ft. i n between, but may vary. ) magnes iu m or wood conc rete Roat.
C. vVa tch the concrete carefull y as it cures. The
STEP 5: POUR THE SLAB bull-floati ng will ca use water (called bleed wate r)
A. Esti mate and order co ncrete (see page 39). to ri se, casting a shee n on the su rface. \I\'ait fo r the
Sta rting at one end, fi ll in t he for m with co ncre te, bleed wate r to d isa ppea r and the su rface to hecome
using a shovel to d istrib ute it. Usc t he shovel du ll. Pressure- test t he concrete fo r fir mness by
blade or a 2 x 4 to sta b into th e conc re te to stepping on it with one foot: if you r foot sin ks YIn or
el iminate a ir pockets a nd settle it around th e wire less, the co nc rete is ready to be fin ished. Note: Air-
mesh and a long t he fo rms. Fill wit h co ncrete to entrained concrete may have very little bleed water, so
the top of the for m. it's best to rely all the pressure test.
B. As the for m fi ll s, have two he lpe rs screed t h e D. Float the concrete \v ith a hand-he ld mag nesi um
concrete, us ing a stra ight 2 x 4 or 2 X 6 t hat or wood fl oat, working t he fl oat back and fo rth
spans t he for m : D rag t he sc reed board a long un til the su rface is smooth. If yo u can 't reach the
t he top of t he fo rm, work ing it back a nd fo rt h entire sla b fro m the sides, lay pieces of 2"-t hick
in a saw ing mot io n. Throw shove lfu ls of rigid foam in sulation ove r t he co ncrete and kneel
concrete ahead of t he screed board to fi II low on th e insulation. \~!ork bac kwards to cover up
spots. T he goa l of screeding is to make t he any impressio ns.
surface of th e co ncrete perfectl y nat an d level, E. Use a co ncrete edging too l to roun d over the slab
if not smoot h . edge, run ni ng the edger bet\veen the slab an d t he
C. Gently rap the outsides of the for m wi th a fo rm. If yo u wa nt a very smoot h fin ish, work the
hamme r to settl e the concrete along the inside concrete \\lith a trowe l.
faces of the fo rm . This he lps smoo th the sides F. Le t the co ncrete cu re for 24 hours, the n stri p t he
of t he sla b, but too much wil l cause aggrega te to forms. Wait an addit iona l 24 hours before bu ildi ng
settle a nd concrete wil l "sca le" or "spa ll ." on the sla b .38 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORA IW SHEDS
Estimating & Ordering Concrete ~ A slab for a shed requires a lot of concrete: an 8 x 10-ft Timing is key to an attractive concrete finish. When slab designed like the one in this project calls for about concrete is poured, the heavy materials gradually sink, 1.3 cubic yards of concrete; a 12 x 12-ft. slab, about 2.3 leaving a thin layer of water- known as bleed water- on cubic yards. Considering the amount involved, you’ll the surface. To achieve an attractive finish, it’s Important probably want to order ready-mix concrete delivered by to let bleed water dry before proceeding with other steps. truck to the site (most companies have a minimum order Follow these rules to avoid problems: charge). Tell the mixing company that you’re using the concrete for an exterior slab. • Settle and screed the concrete and add control joints An alternative for smaller slabs is to rent a concrete immediately after pouring and before bleed water trailer from a rental center or landscaping company; they appears. Otherwise, crazing, spaliing. and other flaws fill the trailer with one yard of mixed concrete and you tow are likely. it home with your own vehicle. • Let bleed water dry before floating or edging. If you’re haVing your concrete delivered, be sure to Concrete should be hard enough that foot pressure have a few helpers on-hand when the truck arnves; neither leaves no more than a %“-deep impreSSion. the concrete nor the driver will wait for you to get organized. • Do not overfloat the concrete; it may cause bleed Also, concrete trucks must be unloaded completely, so water to reappear. Stop floating If a sheen appears, designate a dumping spot for any excess. Once the form IS and resume when It IS gone. filled, load a couple of wheelbarrows with concrete (in case you need it) then have the driver dump the rest Be sure Note. Bleed water does not appear with air-entrained to spread out and hose down the excess concrete so you concrete, which is used in regions where temperatures aren’t left with an immovable boulder in your yard. often fall below freezing If you’ve never worked with concrete, fi nishing a large slab can be a challenging introduction; you might want some experienced help with the pour.
ESTIMATING CONCRETE Calculate the amount of concrete needed for a slab of this design uSing this formula:
Width x Length x Depth, in ft. (of main slab)
Multiply by 1.5 (for footing edge and spillage)
Divide by 27 (to convert to cubic yards)
Example- for a 12 x 12-ft. slab:
12 x 12 x .29 (3W) = 41.76
41 .76x 1.5 = 62.64
62.64 .,. 27 = 2.32 cubic yardsTips for Pouring Concrete ~ • DO not overload your wheelbarrow Experiment with sand or dry mix to find a comfortable, controllable volume. This also helps you get a feel for how many wheelbarrow loads it will take to complete your project • Once concrete IS poured and floated It must cure. It should not dry. If it is a hot day It IS a good idea to spray mist from a hose after it has “set” to keep it moist Make sure you have a flat stable surface between the concrete source and the forms. • Start pouring concrete at the farthest point from the concrete source, and work your way back.
BlIihiillg Basics • 39I Framing the Structure F raming is one o f the most satisfying phases of a building project. Us ing basic tools and materia ls, yo u’ll <:Issemb le the skel eton of the structure, pi ece by The th ree most commonly used na iling tec hni ques a re shown in the illustrations below. Some framing con nections, suc h as w here rafte rs meet ,vall plates, piece, an d in the process learn the fu ndame ntals of req ui re meta l co nnectors fo r in c reased strength. carp entry. T he style of framing shown here is stand ard 2 X 4 framing, a lso ca lle d sti c k fram ing. For an a lternative style, sec the T imber-fram e Garde n Shed o n page 180. Nailing Techniques ~ T he tools you’ll use for most framin g are the ci rc ul ar saw (and power miter saw, if you have o ne ), fram ing sq uare, level, chalk line, an d, of course, a fram ing hamn1er. Na ils used fo r most framing are ca lled common na ils. These have a larger diamete r tha n box na ils, ma kin g them stron ger, but also more like ly to split t hinn e r stoc k. Box nai ls a re better Endnailing Facenailing Toenailing for siding, trim , and other non struc tura l mate rials.
I Floor Framing
Floor frames for sheds are simple versio ns of house
floor fra mes. They have outside, or rim , joists t hat are Tools & Materials ~
se t on edge an d n<Ji led to the e nds of th e co mlllon
jo ists. On top of floo r frallles , a laye r of tongue-and - C ircu lar saw Sd a nd l 6d ga lvanized
groove pl)'\,vood provides th e fl oo r su rface a nd add s Square com mon na ils
strength to th e frame. To prevent rot , a h'vays use Pressu re- trea ted 0/.; 11 ton gue-a nd -groove
pressure-treated lumber a nd galva n ized nai ls a nd 2x lumber exterio r-grade plywood
ha rd ware for floor frames.
I How to Build a Shed Floor Frame
STEP 1: CUT THE JOISTS
& MARK THE LAYOUT
A. Cu t th e two rim joists an d th e com mon jo ists to
length, m aking sure both ends a re sq uare. Note
that rim joists rlln th e full le ngt h of the Aoor, w hile
co m mo n joists are 3" sho rter tha n th e floor width.
B. C hec k th e ri m joists for crowning- arching
a long th e narrow edges. Pick up one e nd of th e
board a nd hold it flat. With one eye closed, sight
dO\vn the narrO\v e dges. If th e bO<Jrd a rches, eve n
slightl y, Illark t he edge o n the top (co nvex ) s ide
of the arch. T his is th e crowned edge and sho uld
a lways be in sta ll e d facing up. If the board is
crO\vned in bo t h direc t ions, Illark the edge with Tack together the rim joists, then mark the Joist layoul. Use
the Illost signi flcant c rmvnin g. a square to transfer the ma rks to the second 11m joist.40 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONT EM PORA IW SHEDS
2 - -I- - - — - .I -
--- --- - -I·~
- -- - - - - --- IMeasure diagonally from corner to corner. If the install the plywood perpendicular to the jOists. Start each measurements are equal. the frame is square. row with a full sheet and stagger the end-JOints between rows.
C. Lay one rim joist Aa t o n top o f t he oth e r so th e B. Install the remain ing joists, making sure the edges and e nds are Aus h and the crowned edges c row ned edges a re fac ing up. Joists should be are on t he same side. Tack th e joists toget her \lit h sq uare to edge of rim joists. a few 8d nai ls. Turn th e jo ists o n edge an d mark C. C heck the frame for squareness by measu ring the com mon joist layout on th e top edges: Ma rk di agona ll y from corner to co rn er: -vhe n th e 1 W’ an d 15Yi” from th e e nd of one joist. T he n, meas ure ments a re eq ua l, th e frame is sq ua re . To 11 meas urin g from t he J 5V4 mar k, ma ke a mark adjust th e fram e, app ly inward pressure to th e every 16”- at 32”, 48” , 64” and so on, to t he end co rners with t he longer meas ure ment. of the board (if th e p lan call s for 24” spac ing, D. If you’re bu ild ing the floo r ove r s kid s, sec ure eac h ma ke a mark at I Y2” unci 23 W’, the n every 24 ” joist to the outs ide skids with a meta l a nchor and from th ere). Don’t worry if the las t space be fore toena il the joists to the internal skid (s) wit h 16d th e opposi te e nd joist isn’t as \vide as the oth ers. ga lvan ized nails. Make a mark I W’ in fro m th e re m ain in g end . After each ma rk, draw a sma ll X de signa tin g STEP 3 : INSTALL THE PLYWOOD FLOOR whi c h side of the line th e joist goes- thi s is a A. Lay a fu ll sheet of %” tongue-and-groove exte rior- handy frame rs’ tri ck to p reve nt confusion . This grade plj’\vood over the frame so t he groove side is layou t e nsures that th e edges o f a 4-ft. or 8-ft. flush ,~ th a ri m joist and one end is flush with an board or sheet wi ll fa ll , or brea k, o n t he ce nter of end joist. Fasten the pl ywood to the joists with 8d a joist. gd lvanized na ils driven every 6” along the edges a nd D. Using a square, draw lines through eac h of t he every 8” in th e field ofth e sheet. Do not na il along the layou t ma rks , ca rrying th e m over to th e oth e r rim tongue edge until the next row of plywood is in place. jo ist. Draw Xs o n th e other joist, as ,ve ll. Separate B. C ut th e seco nd piece to fit next to th e first, a llowing the joists a nd remove t he nails. for a W’ gap between t he sheets. Install the seco nd sheet with its outside edges flu sh \vith the frame. STEP 2: ASSEMBLE & SQUARE THE FRAME C. Start t he next row wi th a full sheet (ripped to A. C heck th e (,vo end joists for crown ing, th en nail width, if necessary ). In stall t he shee t sta rtin g from th em be twee n th e rim joists so t he ir outside faces t he co rn e r opposite the first shee t, so t he joints a re flu sh “vith t he rim jo ist e nds an d the top edges between rows are offset. Make su re th e ton guc- a re flu sh. Drive two 16d ga lva nized com mon nai ls an d -groove joint is ti ght; if necessa ry, usc a wood th ro ugh the rim joists a nd in to the end s of th e end block a nd a sledge ha m mer to close the joint. Try jo ists, posi tio ning th e nai ls a bout ~ ” from the top to align factory edges to mee t adjacent sheets. and bottom edges. D. C ut a nd install t he re mainin g piece of p lywood .
BlIihiillg Basics • 41
I Wall Framing
Standard fra me d wa ll s have verti ca l 2 X 4 s tud s nail e d
~
between horizo ntal top an d bottom plates. The top
plates arc doub led to provide additional su ppo rt for !
Top /' !
Double
the roof frame and to strengthen th e wa ll connect ion s. plate
V !.Header top
plate
Door and \\l in dov. ! frames arc made up of king stud s;
a header, whic h sup ports cripple studs above the criPP:'
~ i'-
stud
opening; and jack stuels, which suppo rt the header. A
v\rindO\v fra me also has a rou gh sill and cripp le studs
belov,l the open ing. The opening defin ed by the fra me
is ca ll ed th e ro ugh o pe nin g. \I\'all frames ga in ri gid ity
from ply\vood shea thin g, siding, or diagonal I X lumber
braces . If yo u plan to store automob il es in your shed,
IV Studs
/
Rough
sill
"'- King
stud
usc #3 or #4 ba rs 12" on-center (in lieu of WWi\II ).
Building wa ll s invo lves three major phases: laying
out and framing th e wa lls; rais ing th e wa ll s; and ty ing
the \,valls toge th er an d Cldding the dou bl e top plates.
Bottom
p\
"'.
Cnpple
stud
Note: If your building llas a concrete slab floor, use
pressure-treated tum.ber for the bottom plates and anchor
the plates to the J-bolts set in the slab (see page 38 ).
Tools & Materials ~
Broom Sq uare 2x lumber WI plywood
C irc ular smv o r pm,v cr 4-ft. level Sd, IOd, and j 6d common nails Construct ion adh es ive
miter saw Hand saw
I How to Frame Walls
STEP 1: MARK THE BOTTOM-PLATE
LAYOUT LINES
A. Sweep off the fl oo r an d make sure it's dry. C ut
a sho rt (about 4 to 6") piece of plate material to
lise as a spacer. Posi ti on th e spacer at o ne co rn er
of th e Aoor, with its outs ide edge Rush w ith the
outside of th e fl oor frame. Mark a penc il line
along th e in side edge of the spa cer.
B. Use th e spacer to mark th e \>\,<1 11 ends at each
corner of the floor (eight marks total). Snap chalk
lin es through th e marks . These lines represent the
inside edges of th e bottom plates .
STEP 2: LAY OUT THE PLATES
A. Measure a long t he plate layout lines to lind the use a block cut from plate material to layout the bottom
lengths of the plates. Note: Follow your project plates. Mark at the ends of each wall, then snap a chalk line.42 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORA IW SHEDS
Mark the stud layout onto the wall plates, designating the stud locations with construct the headers from xs. Th rough wa lls have an extra corner stud 2%’ frorn each end. 2x lumber and a y,” plywood spacer.
plans to detennine which walls run to the edges of D. Using <J sq ua re , d mw lines t hrough each of th e
the building (called through walls ) and which butt layout marks. carrying them over to t he other
into the other walls (called butt walls ). plate. Draw Xs o n the oth e r plate, as wel l.B. Select st raight lumber for the plates. C ut a top and bottom plate fo r t he first wa ll , makin g su re STEP 3 : CUT THE STUDS their dimensio ns are the sa me. Use a circular saw & BUILD THE HEADERS or a powe r miter saw, but make SlIre both ends A. Cut the studs to length, fo llowin g the framing arc square. Lay the bottom plate flat on th e floor plan; make sure both ends are sguare. ( Before an d se t the top plate on top of it. IVlake sure their cutt ing. give eac h stud a quick in spectio n to c heck e dges an d e nd s arc flu sh, then tack the p lates fo r excess ive bm·v ing or c row nin g; rese rve any bad togethe r wi th a few Sd nails. stud s fo r scra p or blocking.) C. Tu rn the p lates on e dge an d mark the stud layout B. Select stra ight lumber for the d oor~fra m e studs. onto th e front edges. I f th e ,vall is a through Cut the jack stud s to eq ua l th e he igh t of th e \va ll , make a m ark a t I Y2 1! and 2%” to mark th e rough open in g minus 1 Y2” (this accounts for the e nd stud and extra co rn e r stud . T hen , mark at thickness of th e bottom plate); c ut the jack st ud s 15 Y/ (for 16” o n-ce nter spac ing) or 23 W’ (for for the window frame to egual the height of t he 2411 on-ce nter spaci ng)- measuring from this top of t he rough opening minus I WI . Cut the king mark, make a mark every J 6” (or 24”) to th e e nd stud s th e sa me length as the co mm on stud s. of t he plates. j/lake mClrks I Y2 and 2-14 ” in from 1l C. To build the headers , c ut two p ieces of 2x lum ber t he opposite end. Foll ovving you r plan, draw an (u sing the size prescri be d by th e pla ns) to equa l X next to eac h mark, des igna tin g to whi ch s ide t he width of the rough opening plus 3” . C hec k t he of t he line t he stud goes. Mark th e king a nd jac k boards for crownin g, and mar k the top e dges. Cut stud s with a K an d] respec ti vel y, a nd mark th e a p iece of WI plywood to the same dimensions as cripple stud s w ith a C. If th e wal l is a butt wa ll , t he lum ber pieces. mark the p late at] Y2 u , then move the tape so D. App ly two wavy bead s of cons tru c tion adhes ive to the 3 Y2 u tape mark is al igned ”,·,rith the e nd of the each side of th e pl y\vood an d sa nd wic h the lumber p late. Keep in g the tape at that position . mark at pieces aro und the p lyv.rood, keep ing a ll e dges J 5Y. . ” (fo r ]6” sp<Jc in g) or 23 Y. . ” (fo r 24” sp<Jc in g) flu sh . Na il the header together with pa irs of 16d t he n mark every 16” (o r 24”) from t here. The 3Y2” common nails spaced a bout 12” apa rt. Drive the th at a re “burie d ” accou nt for th e width of th e nails at a slight angle so th ey won’t protrude from through wa ll. the other s ide. Na il from both sides of the header.
(continued)
BlIihiillg Basics • 43
Frame the walls with 16d nails endnailed through the plates Install a diagonal brace to keep the wa ll square. Make sure
into the studs. Toenail cripples to headers with 8d nails. the brace ends won't interfere with the construction.
STEP 4: ASSEMBLE THE WALL pieces to Ilt behveen the jack stud s an d na il them
A. Separate t he marked p lates and remove the nai ls. together with IOd na ils . Toena il th e si ll to th e jack
Positio n the plates o n edge, about 8 ft. apart, \v ith stud s wit h 16d nai ls .
the marked edges fac in g up. E. Cu t th e cripple studs to fit between the header
B. Set the studs on edge between the plates, fo llowing and t he top p late (a nd th e si ll and bottom plate,
th e layo ut marks. C rown a ll co mm on and king for windO\v frames). Toenail the cripple studs to
studs to th e same side. Before settin g th e door~ or t he plates a nd headers (a nd sil l) wit h two Sd nai ls
window-frame stud s, face na il th e jack studs to th e on o ne side a nd o ne more th ro ugh t he ce nte r on
inside faces of the king stud s with 1ad common t he other side.
nails staggered and spaced every 1211; make sure
the bottom ends an d s ide edges are flu sh . STEP 5: SQUARE THE WALL FRAME
C. Na il all of the studs to the bottom plate, the n A. C heck the \va ll frame for squa reness by measu rin g
to the top plate. Pos ition eac h stud on its layollt di agona ll y from corner to co rn er: \t\1hcn the
mark so its front edge is flu sh \.vit h th e p late e dge meas ure ments are eq ual , th e frame is square. To
(s tud e nd s sq uare to le ngt h of plates), and nail adjust the frame, app ly inward pressure to th e
through the plate a nd into th e stud e nd with two co rne rs wit h t he lo nge r meas ure m en t.
16d common nails (usc ga lvan ized nails on the B. When t he frame is perfectly sq uare, insta ll a
bottom p late if you r floor is co nc rete). Dri ve the tempo ra l), I X 4 or 2 X 4 brace diago na ll y across th e
nails about ~ 'I in from t he p late e dges. studs a nd p lates. Nai l the brace to the fra me with
D . Set the header in place above the jack studs and 8d nails. Use t\vo nails on the p lates an d on every
n<:li l t hrough th e Izjng studs <:I nd in to the header ot he r st ud. To stabili ze the st ru cture, leave th e \-1/<:111
e n ds \v ith 16d na il s- use fo ur n<:l iis on eac h e nd braces in place un til the \,\'a ll s are sheathed or sided .
fo r a 2 X 6 heade r, a nd six for a 2 X S header. For C. At eac h en d of the \'\'<:IiI, attach a board to br<:lce
a windmv fra me, measure up from the bottom of t he wa ll upri gh t afte r it is raise d ; nai l it to th e end
the bottom plate a nd mark the top of t he si ll on stud w ith one 16d na il. Note: rnstall only one end
the inside faces o f the jack studs- t h is defines brace for the second and third walls; no end brace is
the bottom o f th e rough open ing. Cut two si ll needed for the finulwall.44 • T H E COM PL ETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORA IW SHEDS
STEP 6: RAISE THE WALL STEP 7: COMPLETE THE WALL FRAMES A. With a he lper, lift the top end of the wa ll and set & INSTALL THE DOUBLE TOP PLATES the bottom plate on the layout lines you snapped A. Build a nd ra ise th e remaining wa lls, follo wing in Step A. Swi ng out the free e nds of th e end the same procedure used for the first wa ll. After braces and tack them to the floor frame to keep eac h wa ll is plumbed and braced in position, nail the “vall upright. If yo u have a slab fl oor, nail the together the end studs of th e Cldjacent \valls with braces to stakes in t he ground. 16d na ils, dri ve n evc’Y 121!. iVlake SUfe the ,vall B. Fine· tune the \vall pos iti on so the bottom ends are flu sh. p late is flu sh w ith th e c halk li ne, th e n nail 8. Cut t he doubl e top plates from 2 X 4 lum ber. the pl a te to th e floor w it h 16d nai ls. Drive The double top p lates must overlap the top pl ate a nail eve ry 16” a nd stagge r them so that joi nts, so that on through wa lls, th e double pl ate h ulf go into the rim joist and half go into th e is 3 Y2 ‘1 shorte r on eac h e nd than the top plate; o n com mon joi sts. Do not nail t he plate in s ide th e butt ’.‘a ll s, the doubl e plate is 3 Y2” longer on eac h d oor ope nin g. e nd. Nai l th e doubl e top plates to the to p plates C. Pull th e na ils a t th e bottom ends of t he e nd “vit h I Od na il s. Dri ve two nai ls at t he e nd s of th e braces, an d adjust the wall until it is perfectly plates th at overlap inte rsec ting wa ll s, an d one nai l plumb, using a 4-ft. level; se t the level agains t a eve ry 16” in between. few diffe rent studs to get an accurate reading. C. Use a ha nd saw or reciprocating saw to cut out th e lieattaeh the e nd braces with 16d nails. bottom plate in the doo r opening.
Nail the bottom plate to the floor frame, then plumb the Nail together the corner studs of intersecting walls wall and secure it with end braces. (inset). Add the double top plates, overlapping the wa ll corners.
BlIihii llg Basics • 4546 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORAIW SHED S
I Roof Framing A roof fmme is an im porta nt structure no t only beca use In sta ndard roof fra ming, rafters a re the pri nc ipal it supports the roofing a nd hel ps keep t he bu il d in g dry, st ructura l membe rs, risi ng fro m the wa lls to t he ri dge bu t because its style a nd shape have a great impact o n board at t he peak of t he roo f. Rafters in ou tbu ild in gs the cha racter of th e bui lding, the fee l of the interio r typ ica lly are made fro m 2 X 4s or 2 X 6s, a re spaced space, Cl nd t he a mou nt of storage spuce Clva ilable. 16” or 24” o n ce nte r, a nd are insta ll ed perpendicu lm T here are fOllr common roof types shown in th is to the length of the bu ilding. To keep th e roof pla nes book. A gable roof is the classic, triangul<J r deSign, from spreading apa rt, rafter t ies, or coll ar ti es, a re with two sloped sides meeting at the pea k, a nd fl at nailed be t,v een opposing rafters to fo rm a st ruc tura l ends (ca ll ed gab le ends). Ga m brel roofs are like gable triangle. \Nit h shed -style roofs, t he rafters spa n fro m roofs w ith an extra jo int o n each side, resul ting in tV”D wa ll-to-,va ll an d no ridge board o r ties are needed . d iffe rent slopes . A hip roof is structurall y sim ila r to a The key to successfu l roof fram ing is mak ing gab le, but has no gab le enels. S hed roofs are the simplest accurate cuts on the rafte rs. Take your ti me to cut the style, with on ly one sloped pla ne. They ca n be buil t with nrst two rafters, making a ny necessary adjustments, frames or, fo r small st ru ctures, a shee t of plyv/ood. t hen lise one as a pattern for marking t he rest. Al l of t hese roof styles have a deS ignated slope, As an a lte rn at ive to rafter fram in g, yo u ca n take whic h is the degree of a ngle of each side. The slope is yo u r plans to a truss ma nu fact u rer and have c ustom expressed in a ra ti o that sta tes th e n um ber of in ches of trusses bui lt for yo ur project. H m,v eve r, t his w ill cost vertica l ri sc pe r 12” of ho ri zo ntal run. Fo r example , a you more a nd probab ly will limi t you r storage space: roof t hat rises 6” for every 12” of ru n is sa id to have a t he inte rn a l suppo rts in truss fra mes leave little room slope of 6-in- 12 . Roof slope is indica ted in draw ings by fo r storage. a triangular symbol knO\vn as the roof-slope ind icator. You’ll use t he roof slope to layout rafte rs and fascia.
Ridge bo a rd -~"""-I!
Tools & Materials ~
C ircu lar saw 2x lum be r
Fram in g sq ua re Sd , 10d, a nd 16d
Ra ft ers 4-ft. level co mm on nails
Marking Angles with a Speed Square ~
A speed square IS a handy tool for marking angled cuts-
using the degree of the cut or the roof slope. Set the
square flange against the board edge and align the pivot
point with the top of the cut. Pivot the square until the
board edge IS aligned wi th the desired degree marking or
the rise of the roof slope, indicated in the row of common
numbers. Mark along the right-angle edge of the square.
BlIihiillg Basics • 47
I How to Build a Roof Frame
Note: The following instnlctions are based on the sample STEP 2 : MARK THE BIRO'S MOUTH CUTS
rafter template sllOlIm 1tere, which is designed for a A. Measure from t he botto m of the lower p lumb
6-in- J2 roof slope. cut and mark t he plu m b cut of the bird's mouth .
Positio n t he square as you did for t he lower plumb
STEP 1: MARK THE PLUMB CUTS cut and d rmv a line across the board face at t he
A. Select a stra ight board to use for t he pattern new mark.
rafte r. Mark the top plu m b cut near one end of B. iVleas u re a long the bird's mouth pl u mb c u t a nd
the board: Positio n a framing square with the 6" mar k the bird's mouth leve l c ut. Use t he sq ua re to
mark of the to ngue (short part) a nd the 12" mark draw the leve l cut- it must be pe rpendicular to
of the b lade (w ide pa rt) on the top edge of the t he bird·s mou th p lumb cu t.
board. Draw a pe n c il line a long t he ou ts ide e dge
of t he to ngue.
B. Start in g from the top of t he plumb-cut ma rk,
Rafter Template
measu re <:lIa ng the top edge of the board and mark
the overa ll lengt h of the rafter, the n use the sq uare 12
to t ransfer t his mark to t he bottom edge of the ~ Roof-slope indi c ator
hoard. Pos ition the sq uare so the tongue points
dOvvn, and al ign the 6" ma rk of the to ngue a nd t he ,~_- Overa ll le ngth
12" mark of the b lade with th e bottom boa rd edge,
w hi le a li gni ng the tongue with the overall lengt h
mark. Drmva line a long t he tongue. [f the bottom
Bird's mouth level cut - _ _ _ _:::::".......----,
end cut of the rafter is square (perpendicular to
the e dges) rathe r tha n para llel to t he top end, Bird's mouth plumb cut - - - - - 1L
mark a square cut at the ove ra ll le ngt h mark. Bottom plumb cut
Position the framing square at the Mark the bird's mouth level cut Cut the bird 's mouth by overcutting
6" and 12" marks to draw the top and by squaring off of the blrd's mouth the lines just until the blade cuts entirely
bottom plumb-cut lines. plumb cut. through the board.48 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORA IW SHEDS
Test-fit the pattern rafters, uSing a spacer made of Mark the rafter layout onto the wall plates and the ridge 2x lumber to represent the ridge board. board, starting from the same end of the building for each.
STEP 3: MAKE THE CUTS C. Check the cuts fo r fit : The top-end plumb cuts should A. Cut the rafter ends at th e plumb-cut lines, using a mee t flush ” oth the spacer block, and the bird’s ci rc ular smv O f pO\ver miter Sa’V. mouths should sit flu sh agai nst th e wa ll plates. [!Jake B. Set the base of <1 circular smv to cut at the Sille the top e nds are at the same e levation. Rec ut any maximulll de pth . iVla ke the bird’s mout h cuts, angles that don ‘t fit and test-fit the rafters again. overcutting sl ightl y to complete the C lit through th e D. Write “PAT’ o n the pattern rafter, th e n use it to thickness of the boa rd. As an a lte rn a ti ve to trace th e c utting lines onto th e re maining rafters. ovcrcutting (for aesthetic reasons ), you ca n stop Befo re ma rking, c hec k eac h rLlfte r for crovmi ng the c irc ular smv a t the line intersections, then a nd mark the c rowne d edge; a h.vays insta ll the finish th e c uts with a handsa\v. It is no t necessary crown ed edge up. If your building has overhangs to ove rc ut 2 x 4 rafters with 8 ‘1 Of morc overhang. at the ga ble end s, mark th e end cu ts for th e C. Select anoth er strai ght board to lise as <J secon d overha ng mfte rs but not th e bird’s mouth c ut s- pattern rafter. Use th e origina l patte rn rafter to overha ng rLlfters don’t have th e m . Also, if yo u ha ve trace the cuttin g lines onto th e dupli cate, th en t he fascia ma te ri a l on ha nd , u se th e patte rn ra fter ma ke the cuts. to m a rk t he ang le for th e top e nd s of th e fasc ia boards (sec page 48). STEP 4: TEST-FIT THE RAFTERS E. Cu t th e remaining rafters. A. C ut a 12”- long space r block from 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 materia l. STEP 5: LAY OUT THE WALL PLATES B. With a he lper Of t’vo, set th e two rafte rs in pbce & RIDGE BOARD o n top o f th e ”,“lis, ho ldin g t he spacer block No te: Start the rafter layoHts from th e ends of tl18 lUalls he twee n th e top rafter end s. rVlake sure th e rafters where you started the wall stud layouts. This ensures the a re in line .vith eac h oth e r (pe rpe ndi c ul ar to th e rafters w ill fall above the studs . Install rafters aligned wa ll s) and a rc plumb. with the end studs but not the ev’Xtm corner studs.
(continued)
BlIihiillg Basics • 49
Endnail the first rafter to the ridge, then toena il the Angle-cut the ends of the coliar ties to match the roof
second. Re inforce the bottom connection with a metal slope and facenai l the ties to th e rafters.
anchor (Inset).
A. Make a mark on the top wa ll p late I y," in from t he rafters to the wa ll plates. Ho ld a level on the
the e nd . Then, ma rk at J 5 Y4" (for J6" on-center ridge board and make su re it's leve l, then have a
spaci ng) or 23 Y.!" (for 24" on-center spac ing)- he lper tack the support to the fa r wal l to keep the
meas urin g fro m this mark, make a mark eve ry 16" ridge level.
(or 24 ") to t he end of th e wa ll. Make a ma rk 1\1," B. Slide one rafter a fevv inc hes to t he side a nd
in from the remaining e nd. Fol lowing you r pla n , e ndnail the other rafte r through th e ridge board
drmv a n X nex t to each mark, designatin g to whi c h wit h three 16d com mon nai ls (u se two na il s for
side of the linc the rafter goes. 2 X 4 ra fters ). S lide the other rafte r onto its layou t
8. Mark the wa ll on the other side of th e building, mark and toenail it to the rid ge with fo u r 16d nails
sta rti ng from th e same en d . (three for 2 X 4s). Toenai l the lower end of eac h
C . Cut the ridge boa rd to le ngth , using the p lan rafter to the wa ll plate with two 16d nai ls, then
dimensions. C hec k t he board fo r crovvning, th en re in force th e joi nt wit h a meta l "lIlc hor, Llsin g t he
lay it on top of th e wa ll s next to one of th e marked na ils spec ified by th e manufacturer.
plates, making sure it overhangs th e end wa lls C. Ma ke sure th e rafters a re plu mb a nd the ridge is
eq ually at both e nds. Use a sq uare to transfer the level. I nstall th e re ma ining rafters, chec kin g for
rafte r IaYOllt onto both faces of th e ridge boa rd. plumb and leve l periodi ca lly as yo u wo rk.
STEP 6: INSTALL THE RAFTERS STEP 7: INSTAll THE COLLAR TIES
A. You'll need a co upl e of he lpers and a long, strCligh t A. Cut th e co llar ties (o r rafter ti es ) to spa n between
2 X 4 to ge t th e rafte rs sta rted. Lay th e fi rst two opposing rafters at t he prescribed e levatio n ,
rafters o n top of t he wa ll , t hen na il th e 2 X 4 a ngle-c uttin g t he e nd s to match the roof slope.
to the far end of th e ri dge boa rd to se rve as a B. Pos it ion the co ll a r tie e nds aga inst the rafte r faces so
temporary su pport. Set up th e rafters at th e e nd the ends are about 1J2" from the rafte rs edges. Make
of th e wa lls a nd ho ld the free e nd of the ridge su re the ties are level, th e n facenai l them to the
board in place between th em. Have a he lper tack rafters with three] ad co mmon na il s at eac h e nd.50 • T H E COM PL ETE GUIDE TO CO NTEMPORAIW SHEDS
STEP 8: FRAME THE GABLE WALL STEP 9: BUILD THE GABLE OVERHANG Note: Cable walls consist of top plates that attach to (GABLE & GAMBREL ROOFS) the undersides of the elld rafters, and short studs set on Note: Cable overhangs are built with additioNal rafters top of the wall plates. They appear only on gable and installed at the gable ends. They are SHpported by tllC get/nbrel roofs. ridge board and blocks-called loolwuts- attached to the cud rafters. A. C ut the top plates to exte nd from the side of the ridge board to the wall plates. Angle~cllt the ends so they A. Mark the layouts for the lookouts o nto meet flush with the ridge and wa ll plate. The top-end the e nd rafters, following th e project plan. angle matches the rafter plumb ClIt; the bottom angle Cut the lookouts and toenai l them to the matches the level cut of the bird’s mouth. rafters with Sd nails (o r cndnail them w ith B. Fasten the plates to the rafters so the front plate 16d nails) so that the top edges of the bloc ks edges are flush \·vith the outside faces of the are flush with, and parallel to , the tops of rafte rs; lise 16d nails . the rafters. C. Mark the ga bl e stud layout onto the wa ll plate, B. Install the overhclIlg rafters over the ends of the then usc a level to transfe r the la yo ut to the gable lookouts wit h 16d endnails. plates . Cut the gab le studs to fit, angle-cutt ing the ends to match the roof s lope. Install the gable studs with Sd toenai ls. Also in sta ll a square-cut stud directl y under t he ridge board.
Mark the gable stud layout onto the
main-wall top plate and gable-wall top
plate, then install the gable studs.
Nail the outer gable overhang rafters
to the lookouts. making sure the top edges
of the rafters are flush.
BlIihiillg Basics • 51I Roofing T he roofing phase typica lly follows t he framing, for most bui ldi ng projects. As it’s presented here, roollng includes installi ng the fasc ia board, the As phalt sh in gles are the sta ndard roofing mate rial for outbui ld ings, just as t hey are for houses. For t he money, aspha lt sh ingle s are the most durable a nd roof sheath ing, a nd of co urse, t he sh ingles Of ot her low-ma intena nce mater ial ava il a ble , a nd they co me in mate ri al. You’ ll also see how to insta ll roof ve nts . a wi de range of colo rs a nd styles. Fasc ia boa rd is I X trim mater ia l, typ ica ll y made Cedar shing les are a big ste p up in price from of ceda r, that cove rs th e ends of th e rafters . On gable aspha lt, but their visua l appea l is und e ni a ble . T he and ga mbrel roofs, fascia also covers th e e nd (or ga ble type shown here is th e factory-saw n s hin gle w ith fl a t, ove rh a ng) rafte rs. Sheathing is t he stru ctura l deck o f tapered sides. Cedar sh ingles are less expe nsive and the roof. De pending on th e type of roonng used , th e easier to insta ll than hand-s plit cedar shakes. shea thin g may be pl ywood, tonguc-&-groove declU ng iVletcd roollng has bee n used for cen turi es on boards , O f spaced Ix O f 2x lumber. eve rythin g fro m c hi cken coo ps to cat hedra ls, an d As for t he roofing, de c id ing o n a materia l is in rece nt years it has become increas in gly popular a matte r of pe rsona l taste a nd pract icality. Th ree in res ide nt ial cons tru c ti o n. iVlodern forms of meta l commo n types llsed for ou tbu ild ings a re covered here: roollng are extreme ly durable a nd easy to in stall , a nd asp halt sh ingles, ceda r shingles, and me tal roolln g. th ey still make that ni ce sound ""hen it ra in s.
52 • T H E COM PL ETE GUIDE TO CO NT EM PORA IW SHED S
I Fascia & Sheathing Fascia board a nd roof sheathi ng are al ways in stalled As a n alte rn ative to pl ywoo d s hea thing, before the roofin g, but w hich one you in sta ll llrst is yo u ca n u se deckin g board s as a s hi ngle up to you . Some bui ld ings also have a Ix or 2x board und e rla ym e nt. T ypi ca ll y so ld in % dimension in stall e d behind the fasc ia, ca ll ed subfas cia. Made ( l YI6” thi ck), board s heat hin g creates an of rough lumber, the subfasc ia helps co rnpensCite for attract ive “ce ilin g” for the in s ide of a buildin g, in consistency in ra fte r le ngt h , e n surin g th e fasc ia a nd th e nails wor)“t s hov.I thro ugh as th ey do ,v ith will be strai ght. It a lso provides a co ntinuolls nailing pl ywoo d sh ea thing. su rface for th e fas cia. To install subfascia, foll ow th e For me ta l roofing, in sta ll purlin s---evenly sa me procedure used for in stalling fasc ia, but don ‘t spaced , pa rall e l rows of I X or 2x boards na iled worry abo ut mitering the e nds- just overl ap th e perpendicular to th e rafters. Install th e fasc ia over boards at the corners. th e ends of the purlins, flu sh with the tops . T he type of sheathing you us e de pends on the roof cove rin g. Use CDX pl)“ood (it’s exterior-grade) for asphalt and cedar shi ngles. De pending on the bu ilding deSign, the fascia may be installed Aush with the top of Tools & Materials ~ the sheathing, or the ply\vood may ove rl ap the fascia. If YO LI install th e fascia first , cut spacers from the Framing square 6d and Sd galvanized sheathing stoc k and usc th em when measu ri ng a nd Circu la r saw finish nails install ing th e fasc ia . Both sh ingle types must be insta lled Stapler CDX pl ywood ove r a laye r of 1511 building pape r (a lso called ta r paper Fascia & roof sheathing or roofing felt ), whi c h goes on afte r the sheathing and trim material Sd box nails fascia. The pape r protects the sheat hing [Tom moisture 15# building paper a nd preve nts th e sh ingles fro m bonding to it.
I How to Install Fascia Board STEP 1: CUT & FIT THE GABLE-END FASCIA A. Mark a plumb cu t on th e top end of the nrst fascia boa rd : If you didn ‘t mark th e fascia boa rd s with th e pattern rafter (page 4S), us e a framing square to mark th e plumb c ut , follO\vin g the sa me me th od used for marlUn g rafters (page 49). Make th e c ut with a c irc ular savv or pO\ve r mite r smv. B. Ho ld the c ut e nd of th e fascia aga inst t he e nd rafte r. If th e fascia will be flu s h with th e to p of the sheathing, usc space rs se t on th e rafter and position the top e dge of the fascia flu sh wi th th e space rs. C. Have a he lpe r mark t he lowe r e nd for le ngth by tracing a long the rafter end onto th e bac k side of the fascia. Make th e c ut wi th a 45° beve l (miter). If yo u’re us ing a c ircu lar saw, tilt the bl ade to 4 5° and follow the traced line; if you have a com pound mite r saw, rotate the blade to matc h th e cu tting Mark the bottom end of the gable fascia by tracing along the end of the rafter (or the subfascia). If the fascia will be line and tilt the blade to 45 ° . installed flush with the sheathing, use a spacer for positioning.
(continued)
BlIihiillg Basics • 53
Fasten the fascia to the rafters (or subfascia) with 3d finish nalls, then locknail the corner joints with 6d nails. use scarf jOints to
Join boards in long runs (Inset).
D. Temporarily tack the fascia in place against the bevel ang led in the o pposite direction . This
rafter wi th a couple of Sci ga lva ni zed finish nails. is kno wn as a sca rf joint. Nail these with Sd
liepeat this process to mark, cut, and tack up th e galva ni zed Rnish nails and drill pilot hol es to
opposing fasc ia piece, then do the sa me at th e preve n t splitt ing.
other gable end. B. j\/lake sure the corner joints fit wel l, then ta c k t he
fasc ia to th e rafters.
STEP 2: INSTALL THE FASCIA C. Cut a nd tack up t he fa sc ia along the oth e r eave.
ALONG THE EAVES Make sure all of th e joints fit we ll , then fasten the
A. Cut a 45 ° bevel on th e end of anot he r fascia fascia permanentl y with 8d galvanized finish nails:
p iece a nd fit it aga inst one of th e pieces o n the dri ve t hree nails into each rafter end a nd a pa ir of
gab le en d. If t he board is long enough to s pan nails every 161\ along th e ga ble e nds.
th e buildin g, m ark t he opposite end to leng th . D. Locknail eac h corne r joint \,vith three 6d
If yo u'll need two pieces to comp lete th e eave, ga lvan ized fin ish nai ls . If necessary, drill pilot
mark the boa rd about Ij/ from the far edge of holes to prevent splitting.
a rafte r; cut that e nd with a 45 ° beve l, ang led E. Install any addi tion al trim, suc h as I X 2,
so the longer side of the board \vill be against cal led for by the plan. Miter th e e nds for the
the rafte r. Cut the remaining piece with a 45 ° best appearance.54 • T H E COMPL ETE GUIDE TO CO NT EM PORAIW SHED S
I How to Install Plywood Sheathing & Building Paper STEP 1: INSTALL THE SHEATHING STEP 2: INSTALL THE BUILDING PAPER A. Lay a fu ll sheet of CDX plywood o n top of the Note: If J’OU (fre installing asphaLt shingLes, add a drip rafters at o ne of t he ]mver corners of t he roof. edge “long the eaves before Laying the building paper. Position t he edges of the sheet VB” from t he fascia (or the ou tside e d ges of the rafters) and make sure A. Roll ou t J 5# bui lding paper ac ross the roof along the inside end of the s heet falls over the center of the eave edge . If yo u’ve in stalled a drip edge, ho ld a rafter; trim th e s heet, iF necessary. the pape r fiu s h with the drip e dge; if there’s no B. Fasten the s heet to t he rafters w ith Sd box na ils drip edge, ove rh a ng t he fasc ia o n th e eave by %11 . spaced every 6” a lo ng the edges a nd every 12” in Overhang th e gable e nd s by I to 2” . (On hip roofs , the field of the sheet. over ha ng the hip ridges by 6”.) C. Cut and instal l the next s heet to complete t he first B. Secure the pape r w it h staples dri ve n about row, leaving a WI ga p betv/ee n th e sheet e nds. every 12”. D. Start the second fO’V w ith a half-le ngth sheet so C. Ap pl y t he remaini ng rows, eac h ove rl ap pi ng the vertical joints wil l be staggered between rows. the p recedi ng row by at least 2”. Overhang th e Measure from th e top of th e first fO\V to th e cente r of ridge by 6” . Overlap any vert ical jo ints by a t the ridge board, and rip the shee t to that dimension. Icast4 !1 . E. Install the fi rst sheet of th e seeond row, then eut D. Install the pape r on the other roof side(s), aga in and install th e remaining sheet to comp le te th e row. overlapp in g the ridge by 6”, E S heat h th e o p posite side of the roof fo llowing th e E. Trim th e paper Rush ,vith the fascia on the sa me process. ga ble e nds.
Install the plywood sheathing so the
vertical joints are staggered between rows.
Apply building paper from the bottom
up, so the lower paper is overlapped by
the paper above it.
BlIihiillg Basics • 55I Asphalt Shingles Asphalt shingles come in a variety of styles. but Prepare the roof fo r sh ingles by install ing bu ilding most arc based on the standard three-tab sys tem, in paper and a metal d rip edge alo ng t he roof pe ri mete r. whi c h eac h shingle strip has notc hes creating three T he d rip edge covers th e edges of th e fasc ia and equa lly sized tabs on t he lower half of the strip. supports the shingle edges. “‘hen insta lled , the tubs cover the solid portio n of the shingle belm”.’ it, giving the appearance of in divid ual shi ngles. Tools & Materials ~ For du rab ility, lise fiberglass-based shi ngles rat her t ha n organ ic- based . If you choose a specia lty Nletal sn ips Nleta l drip edge style, suc h as a deco rative sh ingle or a type th a t C halk l ine Asp halt shingles is made to appear natural (s imilar to wood or U ti lity knife 2d roofi ng nails slate), c heck with t he manufactu rer fo r specific St raig htedge Roofi ng ce me nt insta ll ation instructio ns.
I How to Install Asphalt Shingles STEP 1: INSTAll THE DRIP EDGE B. App ly the bui ld ing paper over t he entire roof (see Note: Install the drip edge along the eaves before applying page 55). Insta ll the dri p edge along the gab le e nds, building paper; install the drip edge along the gable ends over t he pa per, cutting 45 ° miters to meet t he e nds on top of the paper. of the eave drip edge. Ove rl ap ho ri zonta l joints by 2 11 , ove rl a pping th e hi ghe r piece o n top of the A. Cut a 45° mi ter on the end of a drip-edge p iece, lowe r. At th e roof pea k, trim the front fla nges so lIsing me tal sn ips. Ho ld t he e nd flus h wit h t he oppos ing edge p ieces meet at a ve rtical joint. the corner of the fascia, a nd faste n the fla nge of t he drip edge to t he sheathing ,v ith roofing STEP 2 : INSTAll THE STARTER COURSE nai ls d riven eve!)’ 1211. To prevent corros ion, use OF SHINGLES galvanized na ils wit h ga lvanized drip edge a nd A. Snap a cha lk line I I WI li p from th e front edge of a luminum nai ls wit h alum inum edge . Ove rl ap t he d ri p edge (t his will resu lt in a Y2 11 overlap for vertica l joi nts by 211. sta nda rd 1211 s hin gles).
Install the drip edge along the eaves over the sheathing. Add Trim 6” from the end tab to begin the starter row. Position the building paper, then Install edging along the gable ends. the starter course shingles upside down so the tabs point up.
56 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORA IW SHEDS
Stagger each course of shingles by % tab, repeating the Divide the shingles into thirds, then trim the corners to pattern after overhanging the edge by 1% tabs. create the sh ingle caps (Inset). Install the caps at the ridge.
-
Trim off one- half (6” ) of th e end tab of a shingle, a 5” exposu re. Afte r every few courses, measure using a uti li ty kn ife a nd stra ightedge. from t he ridge to t he s hingle edges to make sure C. Pos itio n t he shingle ups ide-down , so the tabs are t he shi ngles are ru n ning paralle l to the ridge. If on the chalk line and the ha lf-tab overha ngs the necessary, m<J ke slight a djus tments wi th eac h gab le drip edge by %”, FCisten the shingle with co u rse un t il the shi ngles a re p<Jr<:l ll el to t he ridge. Fou f 2d roofi ng na ils, a bout 3V2” up fro m the D . T ri m the top cou rse of s h ingles at t he ridge. If bottom edge: d rive one below each tab, one 2” in you a re wo rki ng o n a hi p roof (gazebo), trim t he from th e ga ble edge, and one 1 II from t he ins ide shi ngles at each hip ri dge . edge. Dri ve the nails stra ight an d set the heads E. Repeat th e procedure to s hing le t he re maini ng just Aush to avoid tearing th e s hin gle. s ide (s) of the roof. Overlap t he ridge wi th the top D. Use fu ll s hi ngles for t he rema inder o f t he cou rse, course of shi ngles and na il them to the ot he r roof pbc ing them ups ide dO.vn a nd butting thei r edges s ide; do not overl<:lp mo re th<:ln 5”. O n a hip roof, together. Trim th e las t shingle so it overh a ngs th e tri m the s hi ngles a long the h ip ridge. gab le edge by %,”. STEP 4 : INSTALL THE RIDGE CAPS STEP 3: INSTALL THE REMAINING COURSES A. Cut ridge caps fro m standard shingle ta bs: taper A. Instal l the first course of s hi ngles, start ing with a eac h ta b alo ng the side edges, starting from the full shi ngle. Pos it ion the tubs dovm a nd align the top of the slots a nd cutt in g u p to the top edge. shin gle edges v” ith those in the starte r cou rse. D ri ve C u t t hree caps from eac h s hin gle- you ‘ll need fo ur na ils into each shingle: o ne %” above eac h ta b, one ca p fo r every 5” of rid ge. and one I II in fro m each e nd , at th e same leve l. B. S nap a cha lk line across t he s hingles, 6” from the T rim th e las t shingle to ma tch the starter course. ridge. Startin g at t he gab le ends (for a gab le roof) B. S nap a c ha lk li ne o n th e bui ld in g paper, 17” up o r th e botto m e dge (fo r a hi p roof), instal l t he from t he botto m edge of the nrst course; this w ill caps by bending t he m over t he ridge a nd alig ni ng resu lt in a 5” exposure for eac h cou rse. C heck one side edge wi th t he chalk li ne. Fasten eac h your shingle d imensions and adjust measurements cap w ith one nai l o n eac h roof side, 5Y/, from the as necessa ry. An ished (exposed ) e d ge a nd I” from the side edge. C. Begi n t he seco nd cou rse w it h a fu ll s hin gle, bu t J’vb inta in a 5” expos ure for each s hi ngle. Faste n ove rha ng the e nd of t he n rst co u rse by Y2 of a t he last shi ngle wi t h a nail a t each corner, the n tab. Begin the th ird cou rse by overhanging a full cover t he na il head s w ith roon ng ce me nt. tab, t hen I y, tabs for the fou rth co urse . Start C . Trim the ove rhanging s hin gles a long t he ga b le the nft h cou rse wit h a fu ll s hi ng le a ligned with e nds: Snap chalk lines alo ng the gable ends, %” the n rst cou rse, to repea t the staggered pattern. from t he dri p edges. T rim the sh in gles a t the lines. S nap a c ha lk li ne for each cou rse, maintai n ing Cover a ny exposed na ils w it h rooll ng ce m e nt.
BlIihiillg Basics • 57I Cedar Shingles Cedar sh ingles come in 161!, IS lt , and 24” len gt hs ridge ca p, w hich is eas ier to insta ll than ca p 11 and in random w idths , ge nera ll y be t wee n 3 and s hingl es . If you want to s hin g le a h ip roof, cons ult 10” w ide. The exposure of the shingles depends a professional. on the slope of th e roof and the length an d guality of the shin gles (c heck w it h the manufacturer ), Because they”re sold in a few different gr<:tdes, Tools & Materials ~ make Slife the sh ingles you get arc good enough to be u sed as roofi ng. A lso, be a\·va re that ga lva ni zed Utility knife 2 X 4 lumber nails Ill ay cause some stai ni ng or streaki ng on th e Cha lk line I Yt” and 2” shingles; if yo u can’t acce pt t ha t, u sc a luminum or Circu lar saw roofing nai ls stainless-steel nails. Table saw 6d ga lvanized nails The project s hmvn here uses 18” shingles w ith T-beve l I x 4 and I x 6 cedar a 5 1/ / exposure installed on a gab le roof. A t the Cedar shi ng les Cau lk/Sea lant ridge , t he s hingles are cove red vvit h 3 1x cedm
Installing Roof Vents ~ Roof vents used in conjunction with soffit vents can help Install roof vents centered between two rafters, about keep the air In your shed cooler and cleaner. Vents are rated 16" to 24" from the ridge board. Cut a hole through the by square inches of ventilation area; most sheds need only roof sheathing, following the manufacturer's instructions two roof vents and two to four soffit vents. (photo, fa r left). After applying building paper (page 55), center the vent over the hole, and trace around Its base flange. Install shingles to a point at least 2" Inside the bottom of the outline- don't cover the hole. Apply roofing cement to the underside of the base flange, then Install the vent over the shingles, using rubber-gasket roofing nails driven into all of the flange sides. Shingle over the Side and top vent flanges, leaving the bottom flange exposed; do not nail through the flanges with the shingle nails (photo, left).I How to Install Cedar Shingle Roofing STEP 1: INSTALL THE STARTER COURSE edges. Dri ve the nails just flu sh with the surface- A . App ly building paper to the entire roof, co unte rsinkin g crea tes a cavity th at collects \·va ter. overhanging th e eaves by %” (see page 55 ). C. Install the remaining shingles in the starter co urse, B. Position the first s hingl e in the sta rter course so it main ta ining a W’ to %” gap betwee n shingles. If ove rha ngs the ga ble edge by J ” and th e eave edge necessary, trim the last shingle to w idth. by I Y,” . Tack or clamp a 2 X 4 spacer to th e fascia to help set th e overhang. Make sure th e butt STEP 2: INSTALL THE REMAINING COURSES (thick ) end of the shingle is pointing down. Fasten A. Set the first sh in gle in th e first cou rse so its butt the shingJe with two 1 W’ roofing nails, driven 4 11 and outside e dges a re fiu s h ,vith the shingles in up from the butt end a nd at least I” from th e s ide th e starter co urse and it overlaps th e shingle gap
58 • T H E COMPLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORA IW SHEDS
belm'v by I Y2 1! . Fas te n th e shingle I to 21! above ove r th e ridge so it overlaps th e shi ngles on bot h
the exposu re line an d I" from th e side e dges. sides of th e roof; tac k it in p lace with sta ples.B. Ins ta ll th e re main ing s hingles in t he flrst co u rse, B. Install anoth er cou rse of shi ng les on eac h s ide, ma inta ining a Ytll to %” gap betwee n shin gles. t rimm ing th e top e dges so t hey a re flush with th e C. S nCl p a c ha lk li ne across the s hingles Cit t he ridge. C u t Cl noth e r str ip o f b ui lding pape r 12” ex posu re line (SY/ in th is exa m ple ). Install the wide , fold it, a nd lay it ove r t hese sh in gles. seco nd co urse, a li gni ng th e butt e nd s \vit h t he C. Insta ll t he flnCl I c ou rse o n ea c h s ide. t rimm in g th e c ha lk line . Ma ke sure shi ngle ga ps are offse t wit h e nd s flu s h with th e ridge. Na il the s hin gles a bout th e gaps in th e first c ourse by I Y211 . 2Y2” from t he ridge . D. Insta ll th e re ma ini ng cou rse s, usi ng c ha lk lines to se t th e ex pos ure. Measu re from th e ridge STEP 4 : INSTALL THE RIDGE CAP pe riodi ca lly to ma ke su re th e cou rses are pa ra lle l A. Find t he angle of the ridge usi ng a T- beve l a nd to th e ridge. O ffse t t he shi ngle ga ps by I Vi’ with two scra ps of I x boa rd: pos itio n t he boa rd s a lo ng t he gCl ps in the prec eding th ree cou rses- tha t is, the ridge with the ir e dges butte d toge th e r. Set the a ny ga ps th at are Cll igne d m ust be fou r co urses T-beve l to match th e a ngle. a pa rt. Add co urses u ntil t he top (thi n) e nds of th e B. Tra nsfe r th e a ngle to a ta ble saw or c irc ular saw shi ng les are wit hi n a fe”,! inc hes of the ridge. a nd rip tes t pieces of I x. Tes t-fit th e pieces on E. Shin gle th e oppos ite side of th e roof. th e ridge, a nd adjust the a ngles as neede d . C. Cu t t he I x 6 a nd I X 4 ca p boa rd s to run th e STEP 3: SHINGLE THE RIDGE le ngt h of the ridge. Join th e boa rd s w ith sea la nt A. Cu t a strip of bu ildin g pape r to 24” wide a nd as a nd 6d ga lva ni zed box na ils . Attac h the ca p to th e long as th e ridge. Fold th e pa pe r in ha lf an d lay it ridge wit h 2” rooflng na il s d rive n eve ry 12”.
Install the starter row of shingles, overhanging the gable Install the first course of shingles on top of the starter end by %” and the eave by 1W’. course, offsetting the shingle gaps 1%” between the courses.
Cover the ridge with 24” of building paper, then a course of use a T-bevel and scrap boards to filld the ridge angles, trimmed shingles. Repeat with 12” of paper and shingles. then cut the 1 x 4 and 1 x 6 for the ridge cap.
BlIihiillg Basics • 59I Metal Roofing Meta l roofing pane ls typica ll y a re ava il a ble in spac ing a nd load req uire me nts. So me roof panels 3-ft .-widc panels , with mo st styles using so me form req uire purlin s with matching profiles. At th e ga ble of stand in g sea m design, w h ich adds stre ngth and ends, add blocking he twee n th e purlins to provide a provides means for joining shee ts. You can buy th e nai lin g s urface for t he end pa nels and th e dri p edge. roollng through metal roofin g suppli e rs an d at home ce nte rs, but th e fo rrn er typicall y offe r more color optio ns, a nd th ey’ll c ustom -cut the pa ne ls to flr Tools & Materials ~ your project. Most manufacturers s uppl y fubber- was hered na ils or screws fo r a ,va tertight seal-u se t he Cha lk line 16d commo n nails recommended fasteners to prevent prematu re ru stin g Circu lar saw lVIeta l roofing pane ls due to galva ni c ac t io n (c aused by contac t bctv·,1ccn Drill a nd preformed dissimilar meta ls). I x 4 or ridge cap, Insta ll meta l roofi ng over 1 x 4 or 2 x 4 pur lins 2 x 4 lumber \·v it h fasteners Il Cli led pe rpe ndi c ular to th e rafters at J 2” to 24 ” o n ce nte r- c hec k “‘.l it h t he rnanufct ct ure r fo r purli n
I How to Install Metal Roofing STEP 1: INSTAll THE PURlINS the upper-most purlin s vvi ll sup port the roollng A. lVIark the purlin layo ut on t he top e dges of the rid ge cap. the rafters , and sna p a c halk line for eac h row. B. O n the ga ble e nds , c ut bl ocking to Ilt between Fasten 2 x 4 purl in s to th e ra fters wi th 16d th e purlins , a nd insta ll it so t he outs ide e dges arc co m mo n na ils ; LI se Sd na ils for I x 4s. j/lake sure flu sh with the outer faces of th e oute r rafte rs .
Install the purlins across the rafters,
then add blocking at the gable ends.60 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONT EM PORA IW SHED S
STEP 2 : INSTAll THE ROOF PANElS the precedin g panel by as much as necessa ry so A. Set the first roof panel across the purl ins so t he t he fln ished edge overhangs th e gable edge by 2”, finished side edge overha ngs the gab le-e nd fascia Fasten the fina l panel. by 2” and the bottom en d over hangs the eave by 2 11 , Fasten the pa ne l with self-tapping sc rews or STEP 3: INSTAll THE RIDGE CAP roofing na ils \v ith rubber w<Js he rs, fo llowing the A. Center th e prefo rm ed ridge cap over the peak man ufac ture r’s direc tions fo r spac ing. $0 it overlaps th e roofing panels. Make sure the
B. In sta ll the suhseq uen t pa nels, ove rlappin g eac h cap overha ngs th e gable e nds equally on bot h panel acco rding to the manufacturer’s direct ions . sides. Note: Some products include ridge-cap C. liotate the final panel 180 ’ from t he others, so sealing strips . the finished side edge is at the gab le end. Overlap B. Fasten the ridge cap to th e top purlins.
Install the panels to the purl ins using
pole barn screws or other rubber-washer,
self-tapping screws.
Add the ridge cap at the roof peak,
covering the panels on both roof sides.
------ -
BlIihiillg Basics • 61I Siding & Trim
T he s iding a nd exterio r t rim not only provide an
attract ive skin fo r your bu ilding, t hey protect t he
st ru ct ure from th e weat he r. It’s im po rtant to kee p this
cor ros ion- resistant, such as galvan ized, a lu mi n um,
or stainless steel na il s. Ga lvanized a re the c heapest
bu t ca n cause sta in ing o n u n pai nted ceda r;
fu nct ion in m ind as yo u insta ll the m : wa tch for areas al uminum wi ll s ta in ceda r less than galvan ized, b ut
\·v he re \·vate r ca n pool or tri c kJ e in, and ma ke su re a ll t he fasteners can he di ffi cu lt to dr ive; stai n less~
unfi ni shed edges and seams are covered or sea led stee l na il s a re expe ns ive bu t a re s tro ng an d pre tty
w it h cau lk. m uc h gua ra n teed to no t sta in ceda r o r eve r cor rode .
Many sid ing manufac tu rers recommen d staining or Ri ng~ or sp irals h an k sidi ng nails offer t he grea test
prim ing the bac k side of the siding (ca lled backpri ming) holdi ng powe r.
before insta lling it , w h ich ca n help preve nt the material App lya protective fin is h- sta in , pa int, o r
from cupping or warping. Since condi t ions V3’Y by vClfnish- to yo ur sid ing <:I nd tr im <:IS soo n as possible
regio n , ask you r suppl ier a bou t the best treat me nt for afte r insta lling t he m . Man m a de products, a lthough
you r sid ing, o r co ntact th e manufact urer. ofte n factory-pri med , a re especi<:llly s uscepti ble to
The na il s YO LI lise a re ano th er important \va ter da mage whe re ham mer blows, na il ho les, an d
co ns ide ratio n . All na il s use d outdoors mus t be Cll ts have marred the pro tec t ive fi ni sh .
wood siding is still the standard for building sheds, but as these photos show, not all wood siding looks alike.
62 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORA IW SHEDS
I Horizontal Siding Commo n types of ho ri zo ntal s idin g include cla pboard front s ide. \Nhichever sid ing you choose, chec k vvit h (a lso ca lle d beve l o r lap), w hi c h is ins ta ll ed to overlap t he man ufac turer regarding backp ri ming a nd moistu re th e piece be low it, and Do lly Varde n , shiplap, a nd p rotec ti o n . Determ ine th e overlap before sta rti ng. You drop styles, w hi ch have grooved Imver edges that can fol low the manu factu re r’s minimum (typ ica lly l it), receive the top edge of the bomd beneath. All types o r lise mo re overlap so that th e sid ing jo ints fal l even ly co me in <1 vm iety of sol id woods, a nd lap siding is a lso at openings o r [l Iang the tops of th e \va ll s. ava ilable in faux-text ure d hardbourd- an inexpensive alternative to solid wood. I nsta ll horizonta l siding over pl ywood .va ll sheath ing a nd 151/ building pape r. Fo r most Tools & Materials ~ appli cati ons, it’s easiest to in sta ll the exte ri or trim first then insta ll the s id ing to fit betwee n t he tri m boards. C irc ula r saw 12” CDX pl ywood T h is mea ns that the doors and windows wi ll be in Ji gsaw 6d box na il s place, too. Sta ple r 15# building paper T he sidi ng s how n in thi s project is a hard board lap U tility knife Sidin g sid ing insta lled \v ith a 6” expos ure. The boa rd s have C ha lk lin e 8d siding na ils been primed on hot h sides, w hi c h p rotec ts th e bac k Level Ca ulk side from mo ist ure a nd saves t ime whe n painting the
I How to Install Horizontal Siding STEP 1: INSTALL THE SHEATHING & BUILDING PAPER A. Insta ll W’ p lywood sheat h ing (*t min . for 16” a.c.; V:!” for 24” O.C.), s tarting at o ne corne r of the bu il di ng. H old the side e d ge flush with the corne r framing a nd th e botto m e d ge flu s h ,vith the bottom of the Aoo r frame. Ma ke su re th e othe r side edge breaks on the ce nte r of a wa ll st ud. The top edge should cove r at least one of th e wa ll plates. Na il the s heathing w ith 6 d box na ils, driven every 6” alo ng the e dges an d] 2” in the field of t he s heet. B. Install the re maining s hee ts, leaving a ygll ga p between shee ts. Ove rlap the sheathin g at the co rn e rs. S heat h over w indm,v an d door o pe nings , then c ut out the ope nin gs v.,Ii th a jigsaw or rec ip roca ting saw. C. App ly 151/ bui lding paper in ho rizo nta l strips ove r the e ntire wa ll surface, usi ng stap les driven about every 1211. O ve rlap horizo ntal join ts by 2”, vertica l jo ints by 6 11 , and co rn ers by 1211. H old or tr im t he paper Aus h w ith th e botto m of the Aoor frame. \Nrap doo r a nd ,v indow ope ni ngs w it h paper. D. Insta ll a ll exterior t rim, hold ing t he corne r a nd door t rim %” be\mA,T t he floor fram ing. Insta ll Install plywood sheathing over the entire frame, then staple flas hi ng over exposed doo rs a nd w in dovvs . building paper over the sheathing. (continuedl
BlIihiillg Basics • 63
STEP 2: INSTAll THE STARTER STRIP STEP 3: INSTAll THE REMAINING COURSES
& FIRST COURSE A. Using the exposure dimension , measu re from th e
A. Cu t 1!I-wide starter strip s of siding so there's top edge of th e first course and s nap a cha lk line.
e noug h to run t he le ngt h of a ll of th e wa lls. If the Make s ure the line is level; if it's not level, make
sidin g is beveled , cut: only from the top edge of sli ght adj ustments over the next few cou rses.
each piece, or lise stri ps of plywood t hat match B. Install the next co urse, a lig ni ng the top edge
the thi ckness of th e sid ing's top edge. w ith the chalk li ne. Na il the siding just above the
B. Pos ition t he starter strip a long th e bottom edge of top edge of th e cou rse below, dri vin g one na il at
the sheathing a nd fas te n it to the fra min g w ith 8 d eac h stud. If th e co urse has tvw board s, make
sid ing na il s . su re the joint falls one or two st ud s away from
C. S nap a c ha lk line above th e bottom edge of th e th e joint in th e first co urse (s tagger the joints fo r
shea thing at a height equ<:I l to the width of th e two more co urses, th e n repeat th e pa tte rn Cit the
sid ing minus -XI! , lVl a rk th e centers of the wa ll or iginal stud).
stud s onto th e bui ld ing pa pe r to fac ilitate na il ing. C. Sna p c ha lk lines for th e remaining cou rses, using
D. Cu t the first cou rse of sidin g to fit be t:\·v ee n th e t he reveal d imens ion , a nd chec k the lines for
trim boa rd s; make it snu g but not so ti ght tha t leve l. Install th e re ma in ing cou rses . Ma rk angled
you have to force th e siding into p lace. Fasten cu ts using a pattern made fro m sc rap sidin g.
the sidin g wit h one 8 d sid ing nai l driven at each D . A fte r comp leting one wa ll , use a leve l to tra nsfer
stud location , a bout I Y\" from the bottom edge. If t he s iding layou t onto the adjacen t wa ll , so that
YO LI need two boards to span the "va ll , ce nte r the the co urses are a li gned hor izo ntally.
inside e nds over a stud , leavin g a Ys" gap between E. W hen a ll of t he siding is insta ll ed, ca ulk a ll joints
them; drive two nails a t each end. w he re sid ing m eets trim or o th e r pieces of sid in g.
Nail a starter strip along the edge of the sheathing, Drive siding nails into the studs, just above the preceding
then snap a chalk line and install the first row of siding. course (inset). Caulk all end joints after the Insta llation.64 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORAIW SHEDS
I Plywood Siding P lywood sidin g is the least expensive and easiest to caulk the gap at vertica l seams or install a 1 x 2 batten insta ll of a ll the standa rd exterior Anis hes . It’s avai lab le strip ove r t he joint. All horizontal jo in ts must have in 4 x 8-ft., 9-ft., a nd l O-ft. shee ts; %”, WI, or %” meta l Z-fl as hing for mo isture pro tection. thicknesses; and in several styles, including st ri ated, rough sawn, chan nel groove, and board-&-batten . T he most co mm o n style, Text u re J - J] (s hown here), is made to rese mbl e vert ica l bomd siding <Jnd typ icully has Tools & Materials ~ shi p-lap e dges that form .v eather-proof ve rtical seams. Anothe r adva ntage of plywood sid ing is that t he Cha lk line Sd galvanized finis h nails panel s serve as bracing for framed wa lls, e li minat ing Level 6d galvanized box na ils the need fo r s heat hing. P lywood sid ing is cxtc ri o r- C ircu lar saw Ga lva nized or a luminum grade, but the layered edges must be protected from Plywood siding Z-fb shi ng mo isture. For types with unm illed (squ are ) edges,
I How to Install Plywood Siding STEP 1: INSTALL THE FIRST ROW OF SIDING a gauge.) At t he joi nts, do not na il t h rough both A. Snap a e ha lk li ne for the top edges of t he sid ing, sheets w ith o ne nail. Overlap the sheets a t the accounting fo r th e overhang at the bottom edge: corne rs, if desi red (they ,vi ll be covered by trim , fo r ”.,rood floors, ove rh a ng t he bottom of t he floor in any case). App ly sid in g ove r door and w indO\v frame by %I! to I ”; for slabs, overhang t he top of open in gs, but do not nai l into the headers if YO LI the slab by I”. will insta ll flas hi ng (sec page 73) . If you sta rt wit h B. Position th e Ilrst sheet- vertica lly- at LI co rne r so a trim med sheet, p lace t he cut edge at the corner. o ne s ide e dge is fl ush w ith the corne r fra min g LI nd the ot her hreaks on t he ce nter of a stud; hold the STEP 2 : INSTALL THE FLASHING top edge on th e c halk line. C heck wit h a level to & SECOND ROW make su re the sheet is p lum b, then fasten it with A. Install Z-flas hing a long the top edge of the siding, Sd galvan ized Ilnish nails, driven every 6” along t he using 6d galvanized box na il s . perimeter and every 12” in t he fie ld of t he sheet. B. Install the upper row of siding, leaving a y~” gap C. Insta ll the re maining s heets, c hecking eac h one above t he flas h ing. for pl umb a nd leaving a W’ gap bet\vee n sheets. C. Cut out t he door a nd window openings …rith a ( For ship- lap e dges, first fit the sheets t igh t, the n c ircular saw, jigsa\v, or rec iprocatin g saw. drav,l a pe nc il line a long the upper sheet’s edge. D. Install t rim over the flas hed joints and at the Sl ide ove r th e uppe r sheet W’, using the ma rk as bui ld in g co rn ers.
1
Install the plywood siding vertically. Plumb each sheet l Add galvanized metal flashing between rows of siding to and fasten it to the framing with 6d nails. prevent water from entering the seam.
BlIihiillg Basics • 65
I Tongue & Groove Vertical Siding
So lid-wood , tongu e-a nd -g roove boa rd siding has a n
a ttract ive, natu ral look that is we ll -su ited for outdoor
bui ld ings. Sta ndard sizes of si din g are I x 4 , I x 6,
and I x 8, avai lab le in cedar, reelwood, pine , and other
wood s pecies. The type shovv n in thi s project is cedar
1 X 8 siding with V-grooves . Buy your siding long
enough to rU Il the full height of the building, beca use
horizonta l joints are di fficu lt to make a nd th ey don't
a hvays loo k good.
Note: Unlike pl)~l'Ood siding, tongue-and-groove
boards do not provide adequate bracing for the wall
structure. Unless you use plywood sheathing as baching
for tonglle-and-groove siding, you must install} X 4 or
J x 6 "let-in " bracing.
S id ing that is 6" w ide ( no mi ned dim ens io n )
o r na rrowe r can be blindn a ile d \\l ith a ngled na il s
dri ven at th e base of th e tong ue onl y, so th e
head s are hidd en by t he groove of th e next pi ece Tools & Materials ~
(photo , ri ght top ); 8 11 o r wide r s id ing s hould be
face naile d w ith n vo nail s at eac h support (p hoto, C ircu la r saw 16d nail s
right bottom). C h"lk line Siding
If your building is stic k-fra med, add 2 x 4 Level 8d siding nail s or
bloc king bet\,vee n the stud s at 24" on ce nte r to 2 x 4 blocking 6d ga lva nized fini sh na ils
suppo rt th e Sidin g.
I How to Install Vertical Tongue & Groove Siding
Snap chalk lines at 24" intervals to
guide the blocking placement. Endnail the
blocking between the studs.66 • T H E COMPL ETE GUID E TO CO NT EM PORA IW SHED S
STEP 1: ADD BLOCKING (IF NEEDED) B. Hold a level alo ng the leading edge to make sure A. S nap horizo nta l c hal k lines across t he studs, 24” t he boa rd is plumb, t hen fas ten th e boa rd a long apart, measur ing from the fl oor. t he outs ide edge, every ] 6 11 , For blind na ili ng, B. Cut 2 x 4 b locks to fi t between the studs. dri ve a 6d ga lva ni zed fi ni sh na il into each support E ndnai l the bloc ks to th e studs w it h 16d na ils. <llo ng the tongue; for facena ii i ng, drive t\’ O 8c1 Pos it io n a ltern ate blocks below t he cha lk li ne to siding na il s at eac h support, 1 Y211 to 211 fro m t he fac ilita te nail in g. side edges. C. Ins tall the next boa rd, fitting toget her the STEP 2: INSTALL THE SIDING tongue · and -groove joi nt. Na il at eac h s u pport. A. If you arc b lindna ili ng t he s idin g, pos itio n th e D . Ins tall the remai nin g boards. C heck every th ird fi rst piece wit h the grooved edge flus h wit h t he o r fou rth board w it h t he level to ma ke sure it’s corne r framing; if you’re face nai li ng, use e ither p lumb. Notch boards to fit fl ush around window edge. Overhang t he bottom of the board V/ 1 to and door ope nin gs; do not na il in to t he headers if I II below th e bottom of t he fl oo r frami ng (for you plan to in sta ll flashing (see page 73 ). To sta rt wood Aoors ) or I” below t he top of th e slab (fo r <1 wa ll w ith <1 t rimm e d boa rd, place the cu t edge <1t concrete fl oo rs). t he co rn e r.
Plumb every third or fourth board with a level, making minor adjustments to the Joints, if necessary.
BlIihiillg Basics • 67
I Installing Trim
Trim in c ludes t he boards that conceal building an d door tr im (see photos, belovv), but yo u ca n mite r
sca m s, cove r gaps aroun d wi ndow an d door frames, co rne r trim, too.
finish co rn e rs, a nd perform o th er decorative To in stall w indow a nd doo r tr im with butt joints,
and wea th e rproofi ng fun c tion s. For s heds and add the head trim first , then cut t he t\VO side pieces
olltbuildings, simple trim det<Jiis with I x 3, I X 4, or to fit. In sta ll m itered trim pieces o n oppos ing sides,
j X 6 cedar boards wo rk we ll. (tha t is, top an d bottom , then s ides, or vice versa).
The type of siding YO Ll lise w ill determine w hen to Leave a ~11 reveal fo r all w indow and door t rim. T hi s
install the t ri m. For horizonta l siding, install th e trim ad ds interest and makes bowed jambs less noticeab le.
first; for mos t o th e r types, install the trim over t he Exposed doo rs and win dows must have Aas hin g above
siding. If the trim is insta lled before th e siding, make t he trim.
sure it's level and plum b- otherwise, yo u'll have to cut To in sta ll co rn e r trim , c ut tv·.'O pieces to length ,
custom angles o n t he s iding e nds. t hen nail them together at a right angle, using 6d or 8d
T he sim plest method for installing t ri m is to use ga lvanized box nails or nnish nails. Set the trim on the
butt jo in ts. A sli ghtl y fan c ie r a lternati ve is to miter co rn e r, plumb it \v it h a level, an d nail it to the fram ing
them. T rim jo ints are most no t icea ble on v,rindO\v w ith 8 d ga lva ni zed box or fin ish na ils.
Window trim with butt JOints
Window trim with miter joints Nail corner trim pieces together before insta lling them.68 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CO NTEMPORAIW SHEDS
Finishing Roof Overhangs ~ A common method for finishing the underside of a roof A roof overhang should also include means for overhang is to install soffit panels that enclose the rafter ventilating the building. With soffits, this can be achieved ends. Soffits can be attached directly to the rafters or with soffit vents- metal grates (available in rectangular, to horizontal blocking that extends back to the wall. An plug, and strip styles) that cover holes cut into the soffit alternative to sofflttlng IS leaving the rafter ends exposed. panels. Exposed overhangs are by nature ventilated but With this application, the wall siding is notched to fit should have bug screen to seal the gaps between the around the rafters. walls and the roof sheathing. To increase ventilation, you can also install roof vents (see page 58).
BlIihiillg Basics • 69I Doors & Windows S hed doors a nd windo ws can be e ither prehung (factory-bui lt ) or hom e made. The shed projects in th is book include plans for maki ng yo ur ovm doors and To keep wate r out, ins ta ll flashing above th e trim of a ny doors or w indows that are exposed- that is, w ithout a roof overhang above. If security is a v\rindO\vs . They’re simple designs Llsing bas ic materi als concern, install a deadbol t for a pre-hung doo r or a and can be built in an hour o r two. hasp la tch a nd padloc k for a ho memade door.
I prehung Doors & Windows Prchung door a nd window units come in standard sizes, or they can be ordered in custom sizes, though at a higher Tools & Materials ~ price. Before framing the \valls of your shed, select a door or window a nd confirm its exact dim ens ions before sizi ng Level Constructio n ad hesive the rough o peni ngs; be sure to lISC the outer dim ensions Ha ndsaw 16d galva ni zed cas in g of the unit’s frame, not those of the door or window itself. N a il se t nails (doo r) or Most exterior doo rs have preattac hed tr im, called Door o r w indow unit 1%” roofing nail s bric k mo ldin g, on the o u ts ides of t he jambs. You can Tapered cedar s him s (window) remove thi s if you wan t to add you r own trim .
I How to Install a prehung Window Add pairs of tapered shims under the side window jambs and under the center I’ I ~_ of the sill.
70 • T H E COMPL ETE GUIDE TO CONT EM PORA IW SHED S
Note: Window installations vary by product and corners of the wi ndow, but do not drive t he tIIanufacturer; follow the specific instmctiolls provided for na il complete ly. your window, including the steps fvr prepari-Hg th.e rough opening, shilll.ming, flashing, etc. Shown here are the basic STEP 2: LEVEL & FASTEN THE WINDOW steps for installing a utility window with a 11ailingfiange. A. Place a level across the si ll or top of the jam b, an d adjust the shi ms unti l the ,vindow is STEP 1: SET & SHIM THE WINDOW pc rfcc tly level. A. Se t the win dow into the rough opening and B. D ri ve one nail th rough the nailing fl ange at center it between the sides. Place pa irs of eac h corner of the win dow. Check the windm,v tapered s hims di rectly be neat h the s ide jambs operation to make sure it’s smooth, the n complete a nd at the cen ter of t he sill; position the sh ims the nailing, fo llowing the manufactu re r’s so the tape red ends are opposed to form a instructio ns for spacing. flat surface. C. If the ma nufacturer recommen ds leaving the shims B. From ou tside, d rive one I %” roofin g na il in place, tri m the sh ims with a uti lity knife, then th rough t he na ili ng fl a nge at one of th e lowe r glue them in place with construction ad hes ive.
Level the window, then fasten the unit In place with roofing nails driven through the nailing flange on the exterior.
BlIihiillg Basics • 71I How to Install a prehung Door STEP 1: PLUMB & FASTEN THE HINGE JAMB STEP 2: SECURE THE LATCH & HEAD JAMBS A. Cut out t he botto m p late ins ide the roug h A. Stan din g inside t he s hed, c lose the door, a nd open ing, using a ha ndsaw. Hemove any examine the gap between the door ancl latc h jamb. b raci ng or nails installed to protec t t he doo r Starting at t he top of t he latc h jamb, insta ll shi ms d ur ing sh ipp ing. betwee n t he ja mb and the fru m ing. C hec k the gap B. Set the doo r into the openi ng a nd cente r it to ma ke Slife yo u’re no t bowing the jam b . Fasten he twee n the sides. Pus h t he bri c k mol di ng Rat t he ja m b and shims with o ne 16d casin g nai l. against the shea thing or siding; if t he re’s no B. Shi m a nd faste n t he la tc h jamb at four more mo ld ing, position t he outs ide edge of t he jamb locations, level wit h t he hinge-side shi ms, mak ing Rus h with the siding or s heat hi ng. Inse rt pai rs of su re t he gap a long the doo r rema ins consiste nt. tape red s hi ms (w it h t he tapered ends opposed to C. Shim a nd fasten t he head jam b at two locations . form a flat surface) between the hi nge ja m b and For added support, you can replace one sc rew o n the framing. Add sh ims at the top and bottom a nd each hinge ”‘,lith a 3Y21! sc rew, hu t be careful not to a t each hinge loca ti on. ove rti ghten them an d pu ll the fra me out of square. C. Start ing wit h t he top sh ims, c heck the hi nge jamb D . N ai l t hrough th e bri ck mold ing and into t he with a level to make su re it’s p lu m b, a nd adjust sheathi ng (o r sid ing) and framing wi th 16d casing the shims as needed. Na il through the ja m b and nails driven every 16”, shims an d into the framing with o ne 16d cas ing E. Cut off the shims flus h wit h the fra ming, us ing a nai l. Repea t a t the re maini ng shi m locations. ut ility knife. Set a ll nails vvit h a nai l set.
Plumb the door jamb, working from the top down. Fasten Shim the latch jamb, uSing the gap between the door and through the jamb and each shim pair with a casing nail. the jamb as a gauge. Make sure the gap is consistent.
72 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORA IW SHEDS
I Homemade Doors & Windows To make yo ur O\vn doo r or wi ndo”v, build a nd install aga inst the stops. Inse rt shi ms und e rn ea th the door the frame, measu re the opening, then build a nd insta ll an d bet\vee n the door and latc h jamb to se t eve n the door to fit (or add the glass). Use I x lumber for gaps aro u nd the doo r. i\llount the hi nges to th e wa ll the frame, ripping it to \vi d th so it spa ns the wa ll with screws. section of the rough opening. Yo u can make a homemade door with almos t any rigid boctrd: siding, plywood, lumber, etc. Use the door pla ns provided in th e s hed project or create your own des ign. For w in dows, you ca n usc sta nd a rd plate glass, tempered safety glass, Plcxiglass 11\1, or super-tough Y.” po lycarbo nate glazing (used in public structures such as bus stop shelters ). Insta lling a ho me m ade door or window fmllle is sim ila r to instCllling a prehu ng door: ce nter t he frame in the roug h ope nin g, shim between the jambs and fra mi ng, plum b and level th e frame , and fasten it th roug h th e jamb a nd shims . Because a home made door frame has no threshold to secu re t he bo ttom en ds of t he side jambs, ins tal l a temporary Ix spreader across the jambs to keep t he frame squa re during insta llatio n. To insta ll a homemade doo r, moun t th e hinges to the door, th e n set t he door in t he frame a nd hold it
Flashing Above Doors & Windows ~
Install metal flashing where siding meets trim to help
divert water away from doors, windows, and their frames. 1
When the Siding IS installed after the trim:
Nail the flashing to the sheathing so It laps over the
trim, then install the siding over the vertical flange of
the flashing.
When the Siding IS installed before the trim :
Trace along the trim to mark the cutting lines for
removing the Siding.
• Set the trim in place above the door or window,
then trace along the top edge and ends of the trim
(photo 11.
Flashing
• Remove the trim and cut out the Siding along the
traced lines.
2
• Slip the flashing underneath the siding and fasten it
with nails driven through the siding (complete the
siding nailing).
• Reinstall the cut-out siding below the flashing- to
serve as backing- then install the trim (photo 21. Add the flashing, then install the siding cutout and the trim.
BlIihiillg Basics • 73I Ramps, Steps & Decks M ost of the sheds in this book wit h framed wood floo rs have a finished floor height that sits at least 10” above the grou nd. T his m<Jkes for a fa irly ta ll But not to worry- you can quickly bu il d a custom ramp or set: of steps for safe, easy access. As an alternat ive, YOLI might <Jdd a large platfor m that serves step up to the shed. On a slop ing site, t he approach as bot h a step a nd a su n porc h. to the shed may be considerab ly lowe r t han the floor.
I Simple Ramp
A basic, sturdy ramp is a great convenience for moving
heavy eq u ip me nt in and out of your shed. Us ing the Tools & Materials ~
sim ple design shovm here, YOLI can make the slope
of the ramp as ge n tle or as steep as YOLI like (vlit hi n Saw 2 x 6 pressure-
reason ). Of cou rse, the gentler the slope, the easier it D rill treated lum be r
is ro ll things up the ramp . Construct your ramp from Fram ing sq ua re 3" corrosio n-
pressu re-trea ted lumber ra ted for "grou nd con tace" If 2 X 4 pressu rc- resistant scre\vs
des ired, set the bottom end of the ramp on a bed of treated lumbe r
compacted grave l for added stability.74 • T H E COMPLETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORA IW SHEDS
I How to Build a Shed Ramp STEP 1: DETERMINE THE SLOPE STEP 2: INSTALL THE LEDGER & INSTALL THE LEDGER A. Drmva leve l line o nto the shed’s Aoar frame 4 %” A. Set a board onto the shed floo r in front of the door be low the shed’s floor surface. opening ,vit h its end on th e ground . Experi ment 8 . Cu t a 2 X 4 ledger board to length so it eq ua ls t he with different placements until you flnd the bes t to ta l width of th e ra mp. Note: The ramp sllOuld be slope for you r needs. at least as wide as the door opening. B. lVlark vvhere the end of the bOClrd meets t he C. Position t he ledger on t he level line so it is grou nd. iVleasure in toward t he shed about 6 11 ,md ce nte red fro m side to side underneath th e door. make another mark- this represe nts the en d of the ra m p .
Place a board between the ground and the shed floor to find the desired ramp slope.
(continued)
BlIihiillg Basics • 75STEP 3: CUT THE FIRST STRINGER B. P lace a 2 X 6 s trin ger bO<:l rd o n to th e layout lines A. To mark t he angles for t he stri nger c uts, plot th e so its top edge meets the t\‘o I1lClrks. Use the layout of the ram p onto a sheet of plywood (or th e pe rpe nd ic u lar lines to ma rk the angled e nd c uts shed floor). Fi rst, use a framing square to ma ke on t he stri nger. iVla ke the cu ts. two perpe nd icu lar lines represent ing the front: of C . Cu t the uppe r e nd of th e stringer to accept the the shed an d the gro un d. Measu re the he ight of ledge r by mak ing a I WI- d eep notc h starti ng about the shed fl oor, then subt ract I %”, Transfer this 2%” down fro m the top edge. T he notc h shou ld be d ime nsion to one of the layoll t lines. j\ /!eas ure from para ll el to t he end of t he stringer. the shed to th e e n d~of. ra m p mark on the gro und , then tra nsfe r th is d imension to t he othe r layout linc.
Mark a level line 4%" below the floor to
locate the top edge of the ledger.
use perpendicular layout lines to mark
the angled end cuts on the first stringer.76 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORA IW SHEDS
STEP 4: CUT & INSTALL STEP 5: INSTALL THE DECKING THE REMAINING STRINGERS A. Cu t 2 x 6 de cking boards to equa l th e width of A. Test-fit the first stringer on th e ledger. Ma ke s ure the ramp. the 2 x 6 decking will no t exten d above t he shed B. IVlake su re the stringe rs are perpendicular to the floor w he n installed. Make adjustments to the shed, and then fasten the decking boards to the 1t strin ger c uts CIS neede d. st ringers w it h 3 sc rews. Leave a Y4” gap between B. Use th e first stringe r as a template to ma rk the boa rd s to promote drainClge a nd add trac tion on cu ts on the remaining stringers . You’ll need one t he ramp surface. Note: If the top or bottom board strin ger for each e nd a nd every 121! to 16” in will be narrower dwn 2”, plan the deck ing layout so between . Cut th e remaining st ri ngers. the first and last boards are roughly the sallie width. C. Fasten th e stringers to the ledger a nd th e shed’s C. If desi red, beve l the front edge o f the boa rd at t he floor fra me lIsing 3” screws. The e nd st ri ngers bottorn of th e ramp to ease the tran sitio n . sho uld be flus h wit h t he e nd s of th e ledger. D. Fasten the ledge r to the floor fra min g w it h 3” co rros io n-resis ta nt sc rews.
Make sure the first stringer fits well,
then use it to mark the remain ing stringers
for cutting.
Fasten the decking to the stringers With
3" screws to complete the ramp.
BlIihiillg Basics • 77
I Traditional Stairs
A s lllail set of fra me d wooden stairs is usua lly cu ll ed • M ini m u m tread dept h : 10"
for H,hen a s hed fl oo r stands at about 21 II or morc • iVlaximum rise r height : 7 ~ 1! (7W' is a good
above the ground (for Imve r floors, you mig h t prefer to standard height )
bu il d a couple of s imp le platfo r ms for t h ree easy steps • iVlin imum stair vvidth: 36" (make your staircase at
into the shed; see p<Jge 82 ). But regardless of the floo r least a few inc hes \".'ider tha n the shed's door open ing)
he ight, notc hed-stringer sta irs add a nice handmade, • A h a n dra il is ofte n req ui red for s tairs w it h
bu il t- in look to a n entrance. And it's fun to lea rn m o re than o ne riser, b ut this m ay not ap p ly fo r
the geo metry and ca rpe ntry skill s behind tradi ti ona l storage s h eds an d t he like (check wi th the loca l
stair bu ildin g. bu ildin g departmen t )
\~! h cn planni ng your project, bear in mind tha t
stairs in ge nera l arc strictly gove rn ed by bui ld ing Because stai rs arc easie r and safe r to usc when
cod es. Your local bUi ld ing depart m ent may impose starting fro m a Aat la n ding a rea, it's a good idea to
spec ific design requ irements for your project, or t hey inc lude a level pad of compacted grave l at t he base of
may no t get involved at all- just be Sli re to fi nd out. In yo u r stai rs. This a lso p rovides stctb ility for the staircase
any case, h ere are so m e of th e stan d ard req u ireme n ts an d el im in ates t he poten tia l for a sl ippery, mu ddy
for stairs: patch fo rm ing at the la ndi ng area .78 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORA IW SHEDS
Calculating Step Size ~
Properly built stairs have perfectly uniform treads (the part you step onl and risers (the vertical section of each step).
To determine the riser height, all you have to do IS divide the total rise- the distance from the ground to the shed
floor- and divide by the number of steps. If you end up with risers over 7%", add another step.
Determining the tread depth is up to you. However, because shallow steps are hard to climb and easy to triP on,
you should make your treads at least 10" deep, but preferably 11" or more. The tread depth multiplied by the number of
steps gives you the total run- how far the steps extend in front of the shed . When cutting the stringers, you cut the first
(bottom) riser shorter than the others to account for the thickness of the tread material.
Tools, Materials & Cutting List ~
Framing squa re Com pactib le gra ve l ] Od x I WI ga lvan ized nails 2 16" lengths of
C ircular 53\'V 2 x 12 pressure- 3" gal va ni zed sc revvs #4 ("'''-dia. )
i-Iandsm,v treated lumber 2Y2" ga lv(:I ni zed screvvs reba r
Drill and bits Corrosio n resis tant 2 x 4 pre ss ure ~ Y.. X 6 press urc ~
Sledge hammer fra mi ng connec tors trea ted lumber treated lumberSTEP 1: LAY OUT THE FIRST STRINGER A. Use CI fra ming sq uare to layo ut the Ilrst st ringer onto a straight piece of 2 x 12 lumbe r. Starting at one e nd of the board, position the square along the board’s top edge. A lign th e 12” mark of th e bbde (long leg of the sq uare ) and the 6 W’ mark o n th e to ngue (short leg of t he square ) “vith the edge of t he boa rd . Trace alo ng the edges of the hlade and ton gue. The ton gue ma rk represe nts the first riser. B. Usc the square to exte nd t he b lade ma rking ac ross stringer cuts the full width of the board . Then, draw a para llel line I” up fro m th is linc. T he new li ne marks th e bottom c ut for th e st ringe r (t he 1II offset accounts Bottom for t he thickn ess of th e tread material ). stringer C. Continue t he ste p layo ut , startin g at the po int cuts whe re th e first riser mee ts th e top of th e board. D . M a rk th e c uttin g line a t the top e nd of th e strin ge r by extending th e t hi rd (top) tread markin g across the full width of the board . From thi s line, make offset a pe rpe ndi cu lar line 12” from th e top riser: this is \v he re you ‘ll cu t the edge of t he stringe r that: fits use a framing square to mark the treads, risers, and end against th e shed. cuts on the stringer.
BlIihii llg Basics • 79I How to Build Notched-Stringer Stairs STEP 2: CUT THE STRINGERS STEP 3 : INSTAll THE STRINGERS A. Make the cuts on t he fi rst stringer using a circular A. Mark a level line onto t he she d’s floor frame, I ” saw se t to fu ll depth. Where treads and risers be low th e finis hed floo r surface. O nto t he level intersect, cut just up to the li nes, then finis h t he line, mark t he center and outsides of the stairs. cuts w ith a ha ndsmv. Tra nsfe r the side markings to the gro u nd lI s ing <1 B. Test-fit t he stringe r o n t he shed. The top tread squme and straightedge . cut sho u ld be I” be low t he shed floo r. Make B. Cu t 2x bloc kin g to carry t he botto m e nds of the adjust ments to th e stringer cu ts as needed. st rin gers. Fasten the blockin g to t he ground llsi ng C. Usc the first stri nge r as a te m p late to ma rk t he 16” p ieces of 114 rcbar driven t hrough Y2 !1 holes. remain ing stringers. You ‘ll need one stringer for For concrete or masonry, usc masonry sc rews or a each end and every 12” to 16” in between. Cut powder-ac tuated nai ler. the remaining stringers.
Cut out stringers With a circular saw,
and fi nish the corners of the cuts with
a handsaw
Mount the top ends of the stringers
to the shed using framing connectors
(shown). Anchor the bottom ends
to blocking.80 • T H E COM PL ETE GUIDE TO CONT EM PORA IW SHED S
C. Anc hor the tops of the stringers to t he floor frame with corrosio n-resistant framing con nectors, us ing ] YZ”- Iong ] Od ga lvanized common nails. T he tops of th e st rin ge rs shou ld be Aush wit h t he level line. D. Anc hor th e bottom e nds of the stringers w it h nai ls or sc rews.
STEP 4: ADD THE TREAD & RISER BOARDS A. Cut the treads to length fro m ‘Y.l X 8” pressu re-trea ted decking lum ber or two ‘Y.l X 6” boards ripp ed to 4” eac h. You can c ut the treads to fit fl us h wit h the outs ide stringers or overhang them by 1/2 ” or so for a different look. B. On e<:lc h ste p, position a full -vvidth tread at th e front v,rith the des ired ove rhang beyond the ri ser belov,r. Fasten the tread to the stringers \vith 2Y2” galvan ized scre\‘s. Rip the second tread to size and faste n it behind the first tread, leavi ng a ~” gap be tween th e boards. Insta ll the remain ing tread boa rd s. C. If des ired , insta ll I x 6 ri se r boards so t he e nd s a re flush with the outside stri nge rs (no overhang). Or, Trim the rear tread boards as needed to fit behind the yo u can omit the ri se r boa rds for open ste ps. front treads.
Option: Add riser boards to enclose each step. Option: Leave off riser boards for an open staircase.
BlIihiillg Basics • 81I Platforms for Steps & Decking This simp le platfo rm is a popular o ption fo r s he ds because it’s so casy to bu ild and it provides a stu rd y Tools & Materials ~ step for comfortable access. You can use the sa me basic design to make pla tfo rms of any size. A large Shovel 2x treated lumbe r platform call beco me eln outdoor sitting area, w hile a Level 16d galvanized stac k of smaller plu t fo rms can c reate [.I se t of ste ps t hat Saw co mmon nails are Clccessib le from three directions. For stab ili ty and Drill 3” deck screws longevity, set yo ur platfo rm s on top of solid concrete Compactib le grave l blocks- the same type u sed for b lock foundat ions. (optiona l) Sec page 30 for morc information abou t bu ying concrete bloc k.
82 • T H E COM PL ETE GUIDE TO CONT EM PO RA IW SHEDS
I How to Build a Basic Platform
STEP 1: BUILD THE PLATFORM FRAME
A. C ut two long side pieces fro m 2 x 6 lum ber. These
sho uld egual the total le ngth of t he [Ta me. C ut
two e nd pieces to fit betwee n the s ide pieces. For
exa mple, ifyo Uf platform will meas ure 24 X 36”, cut
the sides at 36” and c ut t he e nds at 23” . AJso c ut
an inte rm e di ate support fo r every 16” in he tween :
ma ke th ese the sa me le ngth as the end pieces.
B. Fas ten th e e nd pieces be twee n th e sides v.l ith
pairs of 16d ga lvanized commo n na ils .
C. Fasten t he in te rm edi a te sup port at th e cente r of
11
t he frame or at \ 6 in te rva ls.
Assemble the frame pieces with pairs of 16d common nails.
STEP 2: INSTALL THE DECKING
A. C ut 2 X 6 decking boa rd s to fit t hc long d imens ion
of th e platform fra m e (you can also use Y; X 6
dec ki ng boa rd s). Option: For C/ finished look, wt
the decking about J” too long so it overhangs the
frame structure.
B. lVleas ure the frame diagonally from corner to
co rn e r to make S life it is sq ua re.
C. Sta rtin g a t th e front edge of th e fra me, a ttac h th e
k-
dec ki ng to th e fram ing pieces with pairs of 3”
dec k sc rews. Leave a Y/ ga p between th e boards.
Hip th e last board to width so that it: over ha ngs
the front edge of th e frame by I ”.
D . Set t he platfo rm in posi ti on o n top of the block
fo un(bti on. If des ired, fa sten th e platform to t he Install the decking with screws, leaving a Y/ gap
shed with 3” screws. between boards.
Option: Building Stepped Platforms ~
TO stack platforms for a
set of steps, build the upper
platform at least 20" narrower
and 10" shallower than the lower
platform. This creates a 10"-deep
step along the entire lower level.
Fasten the platforms together
with screws to keep the upper
platform in place.
BlIihiillg Basics • 83I
Shed Projects I t’s time to ro ll out your cords, buckle on your too l belt, and start building. Each c ustom project fea tu res a com plete materials list- lise this as a shopping list for bu ying all the raw materials at yo ur loca l home ce nter or lumberyard . From the deta iled drawi ngs and how- to in struction s you’ll learn \A/ hat le ngth to c ut eac h piece and whe re it goes in the fini shed product. The ste p- by-step in stru ct ions will wa lk yo u through the entire sequence, high lighting important and unique details along the way. If you choose to build a kit shed, kecp in mind that the manufacture r of the kit yo u c hoose should provide detailed instru ction s. Note: Ma/{illg sheds la rger thall shown llU1Y require review of code/design criteria for 11Imber sizes, especially floor joists, roof joists, (flld headers.
In This Chapter: • Clerestory Studio • Sunlight Garden Shed • Lean-to Tool Bin • Convenience Shed • Gambrel Garage • Simple Storage Shed • Gothic Playhouse • Timber-frame Shed • Service Shed • Metal & Wood Kit Sheds • Shed with Firewood Bin
• 85I Clerestory Studio
86 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORAIW SHED S
his easy~to~blli ld shed is made distinctive by itsT three cle restory wi ndows on the front s ide. In addi tion to their unique architectura l effec t, c le res tory 2 \12 ft. of ad ditio na l (and highl y prized ) wa ll space by framing th e open ing for a 30” wi de door. The studio’s striking roo fli nc is c reated by two s hed-s tyle roof windows offe r so me practical advantages over standard planes, whi c h makes for de ce pti vel y casy co nstruction . windows. First, their posi tion at the top of th e building The shed’s wa lls and floor follo w standard a llows sun light to spread downward over the inte ri or stick-frame cons truc ti on. Fo r simp licity, you can fra me space to maxi mi ze illuminatio n . Most of t he light is t he squa re portion s of th e lowe r ,vall s first, th e n piece indirect, c reating a soft glo,,’ wit hout the harsh glare in th e fmm ing fo r the fOllr ura ke ,” Of a ngled , wedl of direc t sunli ght. C le res to ri es also save on \va ll space sec tion s. To support th e roof ra fte rs, t he clerestory wa ll an d offer morc pri vacy and sec uri ty th a n windO.vs at has tv/O large headers (beams) that run th e fu]1 le ngth eye leve l. These cha racte ri sti cs make this s hed design of the building. These a nd the door header arc a ll made a grea t c hoice for a bac kya rd ofll cc, a rtist’s studio or with standard 2x lumbe r a nd a V21! pty’\Tood spacer. eve n a re mote spot for th e mus ica ll y incl ined to get You can increase the natura l light in you r studio- together an d jam . an d add some passive solar hea tin g- by including As shown, th e Clerestory Studio h” s a lOx 10-ft. t he two op tion ed skylights. To prevent leaks, be sure floorplan. It ca n be outfitted wit h dou ble doo rs th”t to ca refull y seal arollnd the glazing a nd th e skylight open lip to a 5 ft. -wide ope ning, CI S seen he re. But jf fra me. Flashi ng around the fram e will provide an ext ra you don ‘t need a door t hat la rge, you ca n pick lip a bout meas ure of protec ti on .
S f! ed Projects • 87
Cutting List
Description Quantity/ Size Material Description Quantity/ Size Material
Foundation I S# building paper I roll
Drainage moleriol 1.S cu. yd. Compoctible grovel Shingles 1%squares Asphalt shingles-
Skids 2@10' 4 x 6 pressure-treated 2S0# per sq. min.
landscope timbers Roof flashing 10'-6" Aluminum
Floor Windows
Rim joists 2@10' 2 x 6 pressure-treated Glozing 3 pieces@ 21 x 36" lit -thick acrylic or
Joists 9@10' 2 x 6 pressure-treated polycmbanote glozing
Flam sheathing 4 sheets, Y/ longue-&-groove Window stops S@8' I x 2 cedm
4 x 8' ext.-grode plywood Glozing tope 60 linear ft.
Wall Framing Clem exterim coulk I rube
8ottom plates 4@10' 2x 4 Door
Top plates, front walls S@IO' 2x4 Panels 2 sheets@4x8' 3/4M exterior-grade
Top plates, rem wall 2@10' 2x 4 plywood
Top plates, side walls 6@10' 2x 4 Panel trim 8@8' I x 4 cedm
Studs, rem wall II @8' 2x 4 Stops 3@8' I x 2 cedm
Studs, front wall II @8' 2x 4 Flashing 6 linem ft. Aluminum
(& clerestory wolll Skylights (optional)
Studs, side walls 26@8' 2x 4 Glozing 2 pieces @ 13 x 22'11" lit-thick plastic or
Header, above windows 2@10' 2x 6 polycmbonote glozing
Header, below windows 2@10' 2 x 10 Frome 2@8' I x 4 cedor
Header, dam 2@8' 2x 6 Stops 2@8' I x 2 cedm
Header & post spocers See Sheathing, below Glozing tope 2S linem ft.
Roof Framing Fasteners & Hardware
Rafters (& blocking) 20@8' 2x 6 16d galvanized common noils 4 Ibs.
Exterior Finishes 16d common noils 16 r;' lbs.
Side wall fascia 4@8' 2x 6 1Od common nails I Ib_
Eave fascia 3@12' 2x 6 8d galvanized common noils 3 Ibs.
Fascia drip edge 8@8' Ix2 8d box noils 3Y, lbs.
Siding 10 sheets @ 4 x 8' 'Is" Texture I-II 8d galvanized siding noils 7 Ibs.
plywood siding I" galvanized roofing noils Sibs.
Corner 'lim 1O@8' I x 4 cedm 8d galvanized cosing noils 2 Ibs.
Bottom siding trim S@12' I x 4 cedm 1%" galvanized screws I Ib_
Vents 8 2" ~io . round 2" galvanized screws I Ib_
metal vents Door hinges with screws 6@3 r/,"
Roofing
Dam hondle 2
Sheathing 6 sheets @ 4 x 8' Y)" exterior-grade Dam lock (optionoll
(& header/post spocers) plywood roof sheathing88 T H E COMPLETE CUJrJ E TO CO NT EMPORARY SHEDS
10 x 10 FRONT ELEVATION - - 2x6Foscia
- - 1 x 4 Trim boo rd,
I t Clear ploSli( windows
1 x 2 Windows lops
Tl -ll siding or equalI I I I I- - - - I I- - - - I
Tl -ll siding or equal
1 x 4 Trim boo rd,
/ Grode10 x 10 REAR ELEVATION
Aspholl shingle
- f- 2 x 6 Fascia
w/1)( 2 drip edge
Tl -ll siding or equal
/ , 1 x 4 Trim boo rd,
~ 4 x 6 Skid
~
Si!cd Projects 89
BUILDING SECTION
I x 2 Drip edge
2 x 6 Fascia
Nolch I,· for drip
lell~seal ""'gl" ____ Blocking w/T· diD. venls
11# Building g~t--,~~~---- 2 x 4 Top plole
11" Plywood sheeting MMI=======::::
ri
2 ~ 2 x 6 Header wi'" plywood
T1 -11 siding or equal (typicol)
2 x 6 Raflers
1/ Cleor plastic window
I x 2 Window slops w/coulking
2· 2x 4Plotes
Flashing
2· 2 x 10 Header Wfi l" plywood
2 x 6 Rohers
Opl. skylight
Blocking
"-
=
0.,
x6
Fascia
II ~ II Ii ding
x 4 stud ~ 16" O.C
1I ·llliding
2 x 4 Bollom plate
3/ Plywood floor
~t;;;;;;~;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;*;;~;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;~;;~;j~ 2 x 4 Bollom pi ole
1 x 4 Trim 2 x 6 Floor joist x 4 Trim
4 x 6 Treated skid
Gro yel bed
fill (provide for
positive drainage)90 T H E COM PLETE CUtrlE TO CONTEM PORARY SH EDS
FRONT FRAMING
10'-1 Y,"
- ---- 2 x 4 Top plole
2 - 2 x 6 Header
w/ Yl"plywood
1'-9" X 9'-OY." Opening
2· 2x 4Sluds
2· 2 x 4 Top plol,
2 - 2 x 10 HeaderNole: Stort W Plywood sheathing t— wi VI” plywood ~ t— 2 x 6 Rollers 181 on this end ill” ~ 16” 16” 16” 16” 16” 0.( 0.( O( 0.( 0.( 0.( r----- 2 x 6 Fascia Boord 1Y, ‘---4 2· 2 x 4 Top pl’I’ 1 Y’;=~ r— 2 x 4 Siuds . 16” 0.( 9’-10lll” ., . ~
~ =
0
;,.
~
V-- 6Y,
16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16"
0.( 0.( 0.( 0.( 0.( 0.(
1Y, '---:l
F= 2 x 4 Bollam plole
REAR FRAMINGNole: 5torl W Plywood sheathing on this end WA” 16” 16” 16” 16” 16” 16” 8Yt 0.( 0.( 0.( 0.( 0.( 0.(
1 Y,"'---4~
2 - 2 x 4 Top plole
1%"/ i'--
..,'=" .
~
=
0
r-- 2 x 4 Siuds . 16" 0.(
9'·10Y,"
'"
~
~
V-- 6Y,
16" 16" 1'" 1'" 1'" 16" 16"
0.( 0(. 0.( 0.( 0.( O(
1Y,,---;
F=
Si!cd Projects 91
LEFT SIDE WALL FRAMING RAKE DETAIL
2 x 6 Fascia
Self-seal shingles
11 ·11 sid ing
1x 2
Drip edge
2- 2 x 10 Header 2x 6
Fascia Boord
2 x 6 Rafter
2 x 411Ud
2x 4
Tap 11 ,11 liding
ploles
2x 4
Itud,
I, I, 2 x 4 Bollom plale
S'·SW
DOOR DETAIL JAMB/ CORNER DETAIL
2 ', 6 ~·
2 x 41tud
~~
¥t Plywood door
lin Vt Plywood spacer
1 x 2 Door slop
2 , 2 x 4ltud,
Hinge ~
r;" Plywood door
I·
~
;.,
~~ D10 f> Handle & latch ht
~~
l x 4Trim / '"[on
I
I x 4 (orner board
2 - 1 x 4 Trim boards,
(ul end piece to IiI
11.- Spoce92 T il E COM PL ET E CU IDE TO CONTEM POHA IW SII EI) S
RIGHT SIDE ELEVATION1 x 6 Fos(io ------------~
1 x 4 Trim boards - - - - - - - - - - - i Tl -ll Siding or equal
2 x 6 Fosdo
IINote: Insloll siding on sides after 2 x 6 fascia board is installed ----++------
FLOOR PLAN
~
, •, 16" ,I 16" ,I 16" ,r 16" ,r 16" 16" I 16" ~ ~
\J o.c o.c o.c o.c o.c o.c ., / /
~ + 1£ J
;,;::i %" Plywoodspocer - -
v----
;,;::i
.
.,;
~
=
;,;::i
''""
9 0-
VI" Plywood flooring $
~ )
k---- f-- %" Plywood spom 1=====
1=====
~
;..
..,';..." \ "-
I~
St:
:.:.~
;,;::i -0
1 x 4 Studs
\
I~
;, -
~
" ;t- 1--1:,
.! 16" ,
~ O.C
16"
~ O16".C 16"
O.C
,~ 16"
O.C
,~ 16"
O.C
,~ 16"
O.C
, 6*" :-
Si!cd Projects 93
RAFTER TEMPLATE (A)
1y,~
(; Jf1.
~ordriP
4Y1" ,I 4Y,"
,~ 6', Oll"
'f
3V," ,f 4'h"
:I: 7' · 6V." j:
RAFTER TEMPLATE (B)
20/4" 4', OVo 40/1" 6'
5' , Ill"94 T H E C O ~ IP L E TE CUIDE TO CO NT EM PORARY SH EDS
I How to Build the Clerestory Studio
Prepare the foundation site with a 4”-deep layer of Cut two 2 x 6 rim joists at 118%”. Cut nine 2 x 6 jOists at compacted gravel. Cut the two 4 x 6 timber skids at 118%”. 115%” . Build the floor frame on the skids and measure the Position the skids on the gravel bed so their outside edges diagonals to make sure the frame is square. Fasten the rim are 118’1/ apart, making sure they are level and parallel with jOists to the skids with 16d galvanized common nails driven one another. toenail style through the joists and into the skids.
Install oor sheathing onto the oor frame, starting Cut the studs and top and bottom plates for the front at the left rear corner of the shed, as shown In the FLOOR wall and nail together with 8d common nails. Position the wall PlAN (page 93). Rip the two outer pieces and final corner on the floor deck and raise It. Fasten It by driving 16d common piece so their outside edges are flush with the sides of the nails through the sole plate and into the floor deck and frame. foundation skids.
(continued)
Sf!ed Projects • 95Assemble the back wall framing with a bottom plate and Take measurements to confirm the dimensions for the double top plate at 118%” and 82%” studs 16” O.c. Assemble clerestory wall frame. Build the clerestory frame wall to match the square portions of the left and right side walls. Attach the the dimensions. back wall and nail the side walls in place.
construct the sloped portions of the side walls. Install Create the headers by sandwiching a Y/ plywood strip them by nailing them to the floor deck with 16d common nails. between two 2x dimensional framing members. Assemble the Also nail the corners to the front wall. header with deck screws driven through both faces.
96 • T H E COM PLETE GUID E TO CONTEM PORA IW SH ED S
Set the main header on top of the sidewall posts and Lift the clerestory wall frame onto the main header. toenail it In place with 16d common nails. The main header Orient the wall so it is flush in front and on the ends and then ends should be flush with the outsides of the side walls. attach it to the main header with 16d nails.
Install T1-11 siding on the front wall, starting at the left cut one of each “A” and “B” pattern rafters from a single side (when facing the front of the shed). Cut the siding to 16-ft. 2 x 6, using the RAFTER TEMPLATES (page 94). Both roof length so it’s flush with the top of the top plate and the bottom planes have a 6-in-12 slope. Test-fit the rafters and make any of the floor jOists. Make sure any vertical seams fall at stud necessary adjustments, then use the patterns to cut eight locations. Add strips of siding to cover the framing on the more rafters of each type. Install the rafters as shown In the clerestory wall. Install siding on the rear wall, starting at the left REAR FRAMING and FRONT FRAMING (page 91). Toenail the side (when facing the rear side of the shed). top ends of the “B” rafters to the main header
(continued)
Sf!ed Projects • 97
Frame each of the upper rake walls following the same Install 2 x 6 fascia boards ush with the top edges and
technique used for gable walls (see page 51). Cut the top plate ends of the rafters. The upper roof gets fascia on all four sides;
to t between the clerestory header and the door header (on the lower roof on three sides. Miter the corner jOints if desired.
the right side wall) or the top plate (on the left side wall). Install Install siding on the side walls, ush with the bottom of the
four studs in each wall using 16" on-center spacing. fascia; see the RAKE DETAIL (page 92.)
Install' ," plywood roof sheathing, starting at the bottom left Fasten 1 x 2 stops inside the window rough openings,
side of the roof on both sides of the shed. Run the sheathing ush with the Inside edges of the framing, using 2" screws.
to the outside edge of the fascia. Add 1 x 2 trim to serve as Set each window panel into its opening, using glazing tape as
a drip edge along all fascia boards, ush with the top of the a sealant. Install the outer stops; see the BUILDING SECTION
sheathing. (page 90). Caulk around the Windows and the bottom outside
stops to prevent leaks. Add 2 x 6 blocking (and vents) or screen
to enclose the rafter bays above the walls.98 • T H E COM PLETE GUI DE TO CONTEM PORA IW SH ED S
Add vertical trim at the wall corners. Trim and ash around Add 15# building paper and Insta ll the asphalt shingle the door opening and windows (also see sidebar: Flashing roo ng. The shingles should overhang the faSCia drip edge by Above Doors & Windows, on page 73). Install ashlng and 3,’ , ,” along the bottom of the roof and by along the sides. trim, if desired along the Joint where the lower roof plane Install 1 x 4 horizontal trim boards ush with the bottom of the meets the clerestory wall. siding on all four walls.
cut out the bottom plate inside the door s rough opening. Finish the interior to your desired level. If you will be Cut the two door panels at 30’ ,’ x 81”. Install 1 x 4 trim around occupying the shed for actiVities, adding some wall covering, the panels, as shown in the DOOR DETAIL (page 92), using such as paneling, makes the interior much more pleasant. If exterior wood glue and 1'''' screws or nails. Add 1 x 2 stops at you add wiring and wall insulation, the Clerestory Studio can the sides and top of the rough opening; see the JAMB DETAIL function as a 3-season studio in practically any climate. (page 92). Also add a 1 x 4 stop to the back side of one of the doors. Hang the doors With galvanized hinges, leaVing a’,’ gap all around .
Sf!ed Projects • 99I Sunlight Garden Shed
I !U,~ I100 • T H E COM PLETE GUID E TO CONTEM PORA IW SHED S
his unique, ou~bui ld ing is part gree nho use an d partT s hed, makm g It pe rfect for a yea r-roun d garden space or backyard sUllroom, Of eve n an artist’s studio. desion Becct use su nlight plctys a central role in th is shed b’ consider th e loca tion and orientation carefull y. To avoid shadO.vs from nearby stru ctures, ma intai n a T he fro nt facade is do mi nated by .v indows- foU f di stance between the shed and the structure that’s at 29 X 72” .vindows on th e roof, plu s fou r 29 X 18” least 2Vz times the he ight of the obstruction . Wit h a ll of wind mvs on the front wa ll. W hen appointed as a that su nlight, th e tem pe rature inside the shed is another greenhouse, two long planting tables in side th e shed important co nside ration. You may wa nt to install some let yo u water and te nd to plants without floodin g th e roof ve nts (see page 58) to re lease hot air an d water vapor. floo r. [f gardening isn’t in your plans, you can o mit Bu ildi nob t he Sunliuht Garde n S hed in vo lves ct b the tab les a nd cove r th e enti re floor with plywood, or fev,l un co nven tional co nstruct ion steps. First, the side perhaps fill in betvveen t he floor timbe rs v,lith pavers \va lls a re fram ed in tv,10 pa rt s: Yo u build th e sq ua re or stones. portion of th e e nd wa ll s fi rst, then move onto th e So me oth e r det a il s t hat make t h is lOx 12-ft. roof framing. Afte r th e rafte rs are up , yo u complete shed stand Oll t a re the ho me made Dutc h doo r, with t he “ra ke ,” o r a ngled, sec tion s of the s ide wa ll s. T h is top and bottom ha lves th at YO LI ca n ope n toget her ma kes it easy to measure for eac h wa ll st ud, rat he r or ind e pen dentl y, and its traditi o na l saltbox sha pe. th a n having to ca lcu late the le ngth s beforehand. The roof cove ring shown he re consis ts of stan dard Secon d , th e shed’s 4 x 4 floo r st ru c ture also serves asp halt s hin gles, but cedar s h ingles make for a as its fo undcttio n . T he pl ywood floor decki ng goes on ni ce upgrade. afte r t he wa lls a re installed, rather thct n befo re.
"!II.!
-:IIP" II ,
Sf!ed Projects • 101
Cutting List
Description Quantity/ Size Material Description Quantity/ Size Material
Foundation/ Floor Shingles 2%squares Asphalt shingles -
Foundation bose S (u. yds. [ampactible gravel 250# per sq. min.
& interior drainage beds Windows
Floor joists & blacking 7@ 10' 4 x 4 pressure-treated Glazing 4 pi"es@3I V, x76'(" V,"-thi(k deor
landswpe timbers 4 pi"es@ 31 V, x 20'/," plasti( glazing
4 x 4 blacking I @IO' 4 x 4 pressure-treated Window stops 12@10' 2x 4
I @8' landswpe timbers Glazing tape 60 linear ft_
80x sills irim joists) 2@ 12' 2 x 4 pressure-treated [lear exterior wulk 5 tubes
Nailing deats 2@8' 2 x 4 pressure-treated Door
& 2 x 4 blacking
Trim & stops 3@8' I x 2 "dor
Floor sheathing 2 sheets@4 x 8' '/," ext.-grade plywood
Surround 4@8' 2x2"dor
Wall Framing
I-flashing 3 linear ft.
Bottom plates 2 @ 12', 2 @ 10' 2 x 4 pressure-treated
Plant Tables (optional)
Tap plates 4 @ 12', 2 @ 10' 2x 4
Frant table, tap & trim 6@12' 1 x 6 "dor or
Studs 43 @8' 2x 4 pressure-treated
Oaor header & jack studs 3@8' 2x 4 Frant table, plates & legs 4@12' 2 x 4 pressure-treated
Rafter header 2@ 12' 2x 8 Reor table, tap & trim 6@8' 1 x 6 cedar or
Roof Framing pressure-treated
Rafters - A& [, & nailers 10@12' 2x 4 Reor table, plates & legs 4@8' 2 x 4 pressure-treated
Rafters - 8 & lookouts 10@10' 2x 4 Fasteners & Hardware
Ridge baord I @14 ' 2x 6 16d galvanized common noils 5 Ibs_
Exterior Finishes 16d wmman nails 16 Ibs_
Rear fascia I @14 ' I x 6 "dor I Od <amman nails I'/l lbs.
Rear soffit I @14' I x 8 "dor 8d galvanized <amman nails 2 Ibs_
Gable fa"ia irake baord) 4@ 16' I x 6 "dor 8d galvanized box nails 3 Ibs_
& soffit 10d galvanized finish nails 2'(' lbs.
Siding 10 sheets @ 4 x 8' '/," Texture 1-11 8d galvanized siding nails 8 Ibs.
plywood siding
1" galvanized roofing nails 7 Ibs_
Siding flashing 10 linear ft. Metal I-flashing
8d galvanized casing nails 3 Ibs.
Trim* 4@ 12' I x 4 "dor
I @12' 6d galvanized CDsing nails 2 Ibs_
I x 2 "dor
6@8' Door hinges with screws 4@3V,' Corrosion·resista nt
Wall corner trim I x 4 "d"
hinges
Roofing
00" handle
Sheathing S sheets@4x8' W' exterior·grade
plywood roof sheathing Sliding bol t lat(h
15# building paper I roll Construction odhesive I tube
Orip edge 72 linear ft. Metal drip edge 'Note: TI,e I X 4 trim. bevel at the bottom of the sloped
windaws can be steeper (45° or more ) so the trim slopes
cnvay from the window if there is concern that the trim trUlY
capture water mnning dmlln the glazing (see WIN DOW
DETAIL, page J08 ).102 T H E COMPLETE CU JrJ E TO CO NT EM PORARY SHEDS
BUILDING SECTION
2 x 6 Ridge board
2 , 4 Roher "C," 16" O.CSelf-seal shingles over #15 bUilding paper and 1h” exterior- 2 - 2 x 8 Headers grade plywood sheathing 2 x 4 Nailer
h 4 Roher “A: 16” O.C ~~~~~~~========= ~ 2I xx 44 Trim board Ripped window stops
1-6 \4” (lear plastic window Fascia board 2 - 2 x 4 Rafter MB-
I , 8 Soffil 2”x 4”Window stop
2 x 4 Tie plate 2 x 4 Window stop
6’ -2¥!” wlW b.vel
2 x 4 Top plate I x 4 Trim board
2’-0”x 38”High polling
1’-4” 2 x 4 Ripped
2 , 4 Wofl slud, lobi. w/sh.lf
window stops
16” O.C ----‘—it-
\4” Clear plastic window
Yo” lI ·1I Siidin!I -----j 6’ llI”
I x 4 Trim boards
F=====~~~--------------~~
¥!” Plywood 2 x 4 Nailer
flooring
2 , 4 Cripples, 16” O.C
4 x 4 Treated
floor i YI”Tl -Il Siding
2>4 2 x 4 8ottom plate Bollom 4”Gravel bed, compacted ”-------
- - - - - - 4>4
Treated blocking
Si!ed Projects 103
FLOOR FRAMING PLAN
2 x 4Boxsili
~ f!"" J
~
2 )( 4 Blocking ~ \\ \ /
/1 '"
/
\ / .,.;
Treated 2 )( 4 noiling deal / " , I/~
\ /////
'-""
4 x 8 Plywood flooring ...---- '---i /
\
\ ;,:
..,.
;,:
:=
I"~"~ t--,
/ \ //'
,
/
/ \
\
/
/
'" '"
\ //'
4 )( 4 Treated floor joists
"----
l.
4 )( 4 Trea ted bIOIking /
. - Grovel bed, compocted -'" ~ , Lo ~ b...ff '"
"\
I' -II Y' 2' -0" 2'-0" 2' -0" 2' -0" I'-II Y'
1I '-10Y."
LEFT SIDE FRAMING RIGHT SIDE FRAMING
2x 6
Ridge board
2 x 6 Ridge boord -----~"i'o-
~ _ _- - - R,IIer "A"
~L--------=~0:-:-- R,IIer "8"
2 x 4Noiler
Rofter · B" 2- 2 x 8
Header pocket
2 • 2 )( 8 2x 4
Header pocket n
-------' ,I ',-f-
F
1111'F=lf=='*'==#"5i'lt:::::tTi2e)( plale
4
2 x 4 Noiler --
3%" Top plole
3/
V".,
2 x 4 liepl,le /
2 x 4 Top plate
'" ~
:el
~ {~
:., '---
4 Hooder
plywoodspoce
3'-2!/'"
CUi oul
3'-7\\" ~6" 1 " 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 1\\
9'-3)\" 1:v." 3%" 9'-3)\"
Ponel "D- Ponel "B"104 T Il E COMPLETE CU IDE TO CONTEM POH AIW SII ED S
FRONT FRAMING
6" 1' OVO 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" I' OVO 6"
2 x 6 Ridge board
-s. r- -
-;-
r- - r- 2 x 4 Rolter "C," 16" 0.(
'"
~
Ie LJ. 2x8
/
V
/'
"-- I'-- 2 - 2 4 Rofterx ~B H
Header
J i"- 2 x 4 Nailer
-=• ~
. ;.,
~ 1 x 6 Rake board
p.- 2 x 4 Ripped window slops
~
1\ 2 4 lookouts
x
@2'·0" 0.(
.1'/," 11 '-lOlA" l V,"
Y 3' -01 y),. 2'-10 Vi,·
'" F 6"
2'-10Ylt 3'-01 Yl, " 6"
2 x 4 Tie plate1’·9” R.O. I’ Iffi’ ~ 2 x 4 Top plate Window siz e ~ ~~ :” ~ -” --- 2 4 Ripped windowslops x
1’-1\14” 2· 2x411ud ~ t— Cripple size ---- -’” I’·OYO 16” 16” 16” 16” 16” 16” 16” I’·OYO ----- 2 4 Bollom plate 2 x 4 (ripples x
II '·1 0\\"
REAR FRAMING
6" I' 0%" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" I' Oll" 6"
~
- 2 x 6 Ridge board
---
0
.~
~ ~
2 x 4 Rolter "A: 16" 0.(
'"
.E
= - 1 x 6 Rake board
=
-=
~
.,;
f--- -- 2 x 4 lookouts, 2' -0" O.c.
2 x 4 Top plate
-'"
2 x 4 Woll slud, 16" O.c.
'"
~
'- ;.,
'" 1' -0lit," 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 1'·0)\"
2 x 4 Bollam plate
11'·10Vo
Panel ~ ( "
S/!ed Projects 105
FRONT ELEVATION REAR ELEVATION
S If-sea l shingles
/;;;: x 4 Trim board
x 4 Window
ops ripped
y,• (lear
SIf I h' I
- :e-seasmges
pi osli( window
1 x 6 Trim board
~ ~/ I imx 4board
fr: Tr
~~
/ ,7 ,7
2-
~
~ :iIler ripped
x4
2x4
(orner boards
I' I'
---- I
I' y
1x 4
Tr im board 1- 1I ~1I Siding
Ix4
I I I III I II II~
"
( orner boards
~ 1I ~1I Siding
/ Grod.
Grode
RIGHT SIDE ELEVATION SOFFIT DETAIL
Self-seal shingles over
#15 building paper and Yt"
eKlerior plywood sheathing
Z ~ flOIhing 2 x 4 Rafters,
16" O.C
1x 6
Fascia board Melal drip edge
1x 4 9 1 x 6 Fascia board
Trim board <>
1 x 8 Ripped soffil
1x 4 2 x 4 Tie pi ole _ _ _ _-*_+--1
(orner boards
2 x 4 Top plot. -----It--t----'
11 ~ II Siding
wi 1 x 4
1I ~ 1I Siding
Grode (ornerboards (typ.)
2 x 4 won studs, 16" O.C106 T H E CO~ IP LETE CU ID E TO CONTEM POR ARY SHEDS
FRONT & SIDE DOOR CONSTRUCTION
3'-0·
'r
- r- TI -II Siding
~
'"
.''"- I-- 1 x 2 Wood him
2>4
------
~
;"
~
~
6· '"
.,- ~
~
TI -II Siding - t -_ _--I-
"\'"
'"
~F ~ ~ 0. ~ ’” ’” 2 x 4 Trim ---+~tI
~ ..- ~ ~ ~- 6· 2 x 2 Surround
6"
21"
~ ;"
~
l'l ~
~
'"
"\
'"
FRONT & SIDE DOOR CONSTRUCTION (DOOR JAMB, REAR, DOOR HEADER)
2 x 2 Bracing
on bockside wi
lfi" lop joint
Door pull Provide lotch
behind lor
1 x 2 Door slop dutch door
2 x 2 Surround 2 x 4 Dutch door
bollom roil
II-II Siding
1 x 2 Door slop
2- 2< 4
2 x 2 Surround Header
3Y1" hinge wi Y!"
plywood
1 x 2 Trim TI -II Siding spocer
Bol.lo.th
1 x 2 Trim
'--_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _-' 2 x 4 hallom roil
Si!cd Projects 107
HEADER & WINDOW DETAIL WINDOW SECTION
2-2x4Rofters
Self-seal shingles 12
over #15 building -"""":->,"---",,,
paper and Y1" exterior ~ 12
plywood sheathing ---''<-----'>~ lit Clear plastic wi ndow panel
Z~flO\hing -~---"'-----',~
1 x 4 Trim boor.~d--===:=:::=~;pr:;~~ 2 - 2x4Rofters
2 x 4 Nailer
2 - 2 x 8 Header
glued and nOiled'- - - - - - - j i
2<4
2 x 4 Ripped Ripped window
window slop ---------===--.J slops with caulking
IJt Cleor plastic
(lyp.1
window panel - - - - - - - - - - - - "
2 x 4 Ripped window 1 x 4 Trim boord
slop with (Dulking - - - - - - - - - - - - - - '
WINDOW DETAIL TABLE & LOWER WINDOW DETAIL
1/." Clear plastic W(I
4 eor p osll( Win. dOW panel \
window ponel
2 x 4 Ripped windowslop \
2 . 2 x 4 Rafters -~'--
2 x 4 Ripped window
3' -Olh" 1\
slop wi 45° bevel r~ r ~ O" \
and caulking ~=====s:~~~~ f
(aulking (lypi,,11
r
2 x 4 Tie plate
1 )( 4 Trim board
;...
'"'" ''""
'"
0,
,;, -=<;:~r ~ll liding
~ l x 6 lohle hoords
1 )( 6 Trim board
2 )( 4 Top plote
V
'"~ 2 x 4 lohlelop sluds, 16" O.C f.2:
2 x 4 Top plate
2 )( 4 Ripped window
;...
=
szIj-
2)(4Le~er
2 x 411u s @ 16" O.C -
2 x 4 8o"om plole
_
,
slops with caulking
(lypi"I1- - - - J
2 ~ 2 x 4 Woll slud
~
"
-
\; Plywood flOOring "". 4 Gravel bed
"
r
x 4 Ripped
RAFTER TEMPLATES RAKE BOARD DETAIL
..
r~o y
2 )( 6 Ridge board
2 )( 4 Blocking
2)( 4 Rafter ~ Aff
2 )( 4 Rafter M
Bff
8'·rx·
8'-6%"
H2 4 Roher . ::I ,
x ,,
I ,,
3h"
1 21a"
1
- - 2'-' Ylt
,,
,
I l'
'~I ~
2 )( 4 Rafter -CW
I 1,1 1 )( 6 Rake board
3W 1'-7Vi t 2 Va"108 T H E CO MPLET E CUIf)E TO CONT EM PORARY SH EDS
I How to Build the Sunlight Garden Shed
Build the foundation, following the basic steps used for a wooden Cut ten 4 x 4 blocks to fit between the jOists. Install SIX skid foundation (page 28). First, prepare a bed of compacted gravel. blocks 34’/,” from the front rim jOiSt, and install four blocks Make sure the bed is flat and level. Cut seven 4 x 4” x 10 ft. pressure- 31V/ from the rear. Toenail the blocks to the jOists. All blocks, treated posts down to 1151” to serve as floor JOIsts. PosItion the jOiStS, and sills must be flush at the top. joists as shown in the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN. Level each jOiSt, and make sure all are level with one another and the ends are flush .Add rim joists and blocking: Cut two 12-ft. 2 x 4s (1421”) for rim joists. Fasten the rim joists to the ends of the 4 x 4 jOists (see the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN) w.h 16d ga”,anized common nails.
To frame the rear wall, cut one top plate and one pressure- For the front wall, cut two top plates and one treated treated bottom plate (142%”). Cut twelve studs (81 ”). Assemble bottom plate (142%”). Cut ten studs (35’/.”) and eight Cripple the wall following the layout in the REAR FRAMING (page studs (13%”). Cut four 2 x 4 window sills (311 Y,,”). Assemble the 105). Raise the wall and fasten it to the rear rim joist and the wall follOWing the layout In the FRONT FRAMING (page 105). intermediate joists, using 16d galvanized common nails. Brace Add the double top plate, but do not Install the window stops the wall in position With 2 x 4 braces staked to the ground . at this time. Raise, attach, and brace the front wall.
(continued)
Sf!ed Projects • 109
cut lumber for the right side wall: one top plate (54' .'1, Trim two sheets of 'J." plywood as needed and insta ll them
one treated bottom plate (11 P ,'I, four studs (81 "), and two over the jOists and blocking as shown in the FLOOR FRAMING
header post studs (86' "); and for the left side wall : top plate PLAN, leaving open cavities along the front of the shed and
(54' .'1, bottom plate (11 P , '), three studs (81 "I, two jack studs a portion of the rear. Fasten the sheets with 8d galvanized
(77','1, two posts (86'.'1, and a built-up 2 x 4 header (39' "). common nails driven every 6" along the edges and 8" in the
Assemble and Install the walls as shown in the RIGHT SIDE eld . Fill the exposed foundation cavities With 4" of gravel and
FRAMING and LEFT SIDE FRAMING (page 104). Add the doubled compact It thoroughly.
top plates along the rear and side walls. Install treated 2 x 4
nailing cleats to the joists and blocking as shown in the FLOOR
FRAMING PLAN (page 104) and BUILDING SECTION (page 103).
construct the rafter header from two 2 x 8s cut to 142','. Cut one of each A and B pattern rafters uSing the RAFTER
Join the pieces with construction adheSive and pairs of 10d TEMPLATES (page 108). Test- t the rafters. The B rafter should
common nails driven every 24" on both Sides. Set the header rest squarely on the rafter header, and its bottom end should
on top of the side wall posts, and toenail it to the posts with sit ush with outside of the front wall. Adjust the rafter cuts
four 16d common nails at each end. as needed, then use the pattern rafters to mark and cut the
remaining A and B rafters.110 • T H E COM PLETE GUID E TO CONTEM PO RA IW SH ED S
cut the 2 x 6 ridge board (154%”). Mark the rafter layout cut a pattern “C” rafter, test-fit, and adjust as needed. onto the ridge and front and rear wall plates following the Cut the remaining seven C rafters and Install them. Measure FRONT FRAMING and REAR FRAM ING. Install the A and and cut four 2 x 4 nailers (3 11’1,,”) to fit between the sets B rafters and ridge. Make sure the B rafters are spaced of B rafters (as shown). Position the nailers as shown In the accurately so the windows will fit properly into their frames; HEADER & WINDOW DETAIL (page 108) and toenail them to see the WINDOW SECTION (page 108). the rafters.
Complete the rake portions of each side wall. Mark the Create the inner and outer window stops from 10-ft-long stud layouts onto the bottom plate, and onto the top plate 2 x 4S. For stops at the sides and tops of the roof windows and of the square wall section; see the RIGHT and LEFT SIDE all sides of the front wall windows, rip the inner stops to 2%” FRAMING. Use a plumb bob to transfer the layout to the rafters. wide and the outer stops to 1” wide; see the WINDOW SECTION Measure for each stud, cutling the top ends of the studs and WINDOW DETAIL (page 108). For the bottom of each roof under the B rafters at 45° and those under the A rafters at 30°. window, rip the inner stop to 1V/; bevel the edge of the outer Toenail the studs to the plates and rafters. Add horizontal 2 x 4 stop at 45°. nailers as shown in the framing drawings.
(continued)
Sf!ed Projects • 111
Install each window as follows: Attach inner stops as shown Cover the walls with T1-11 siding, starting with the rear wall.
in the drawings, uSing galvanized finish nails. Paint or varnish the Trim the sheets as needed so they extend from the bottom
rafters and stops for moisture protection. Apply a heavy bead edges of the rafters down to at least 1" below the tops of the
of caulk at each location shown on the drawings (HEADER & foundation timbers. On the side walls, add Z-flashing above the
WINDOW DETAIL, WINDOW SECTION/DETAIL, TABLE & LOWER first row and continue the siding up to the rafters.
WINDOW DETAIL). Set the glazing in place, add another bead
of caulk, and attach the outer stops. Cover the rafters and stop
edges with 1 x 4 tnrn.
Install 1 x 6 fascia over the ends of the A rafters. Keep all Rip 1 x 6 boards to 5%" width (some may come milled to 5%"
fascia v," above the rafters so it will be flush with the roof already) for the gable soffits. Fasten the soffits to the lookouts
sheathing. USing scrap rafter matenal, cut the 2 x 4 lookouts with Siding nails. Rip a 1 x 8 board for the soffit along the rear
(5%" ). On each outer B rafter, install one lookout at the bottom eave, beveling the edges at 30° to match the A rafter ends.
end and four more spaced 24" on center going up. On the A Install the soffit.
rafters, add a lookout at both ends and two spaced evenly In
between. Install the 1 x 6 rake boards (fascia) as shown in the
RAKE BOARD DETAIL (page 108).1 12 • T H E CO MPLETE GUID E TO CONTEMPORA IW SH ED S
Deck the roof with ‘j,” plywood sheathing, starting at the construct the planting tables from 2 x 4 lumber and 1 x 6 bottom ends of the rafters. Install metal drip edge, building boards, as shown in the TABLE & LOWER WINDOW DETAIL and paper, and asphalt shingles following the steps on page 56. BUILDING SECTION. The bottom plates of the table legs should If desired, add one or more roof vents dUring the shingle be flush with the outside edges of the foundation blocking. installation . Be sure to overlap shingles onto the 1 x 4 trim board above the roof windows, as shown in the HEADER & WINDOW DETAIL.
Build each ofthe two door panels using T1-11 siding, 2 x 2 Complete the trim details with 1 x 4 vertical corner boards, bracing, a 2 x 4 bottom rail, and 1 x 2 trim on the front side; 1 x 4 horizontal trim above the front wall windows, and see the DOOR CONSTRUCTION drawings (page 1071. The panels ripped 1 x 4 trim and 1 x 2 trim at the bottom of the front wall are identical except for a 2 x 4 sill added to the top of the windows (see the TABLE & LOWER WINDOW DETAIL). Paint the lower panel. Install 1 x 2 stops at the sides and top of the door siding and trim, or coat with exterior wood finish . opening. Hang the doors with four hinges, leaving even gaps all around. Install a bolt latch for locking the two panels together.
Sf!ed Projects • 113I Lean-to Tool Bin out in the ope n- where it \Ion’t be protected against ‘~nd T he lean-to is a classic outbuil ding intended as a supplemental)’ structu re for a larger bui lding. Its silll p le shed-style roof he lps it ble nd with the ne ighboring and extre me weather- be sure to anc hor it securely to the ground to prevent it from blowing over. structure a nd directs \va ter avvay and keeps leaves and As s hovvn here , the b in is fin ished with asp halt debris from gett ing trapped be tween th e two bu il d ings. s h ingle roofi ng, T I ~ I I p ly,v ood sid ing, a nd I X cedar W he n buil t to a sillall shed scale, the lea n-to (soilleti llles tri m , bu t you can s u bst it u te any type of fin ish to called a closet shed) is most useful as an easy-access mat c h or co mp lement a neig h boring structure . Its storage locker that saves you extra trips into the garage 65”-ta ll doub le doors provide easy access to its 18 for often-used lawn a nd garden tools and supplies. sguare feet of Aoor space. T he 8-ft.-ta ll rear wa ll Th is lean-to tool bin is not actua lly attac hed to can accommodate a set of shelves while leavi ng the hOllse, though it appears to be. It is designed as a eno ugh roo m below for long- hand le d too ls. freestandi ng bu ilding \~th a wooden skid fou ndation that Beca use the tool bin sits on the ground, in cold makes it easy to move. \t\1ith all four sides Il nished, the bin cl imates it will be subject to shifting with seasonal freeze- can be placed any’\vhere, but it works best \vhen set next to thaw cycles. T he refore, do not attac h the tool bin to your a hOllse or garage wall or a tall fence. If you locate the bin house or any other bu ilding set on a frost-proof fou ndation.
114 • T H E COM PL ETE GUIDE TO CONT EM PORA IW SHED S
Sf!ed Projects • 115
Cutting List
Description Quantity/ Size Material Description Quantity/ Size Material
Foundation Door trim 2@8' I x 10 545 cedar
Droinage molerial 0.5 cu. yd. Compoctible gravel 2@6' I x 8 545 cedar
Skids 2@6' 4 x 4 treated timbers (orner trim 6@8' I x 4 545 cedar
Floor framing Fascia 3@6' I x 8 545 cedar
1@6' I x 4 545 cedar
Rim joists 2@6' 2 x 6 pressure-trealed
Bug screen 8" x 6' Fiberglass
Joist 3@8' 2 x 6 pressure·treoted
Doors
Floar sheathing I sheet@ 4 x 8 Jf." tongue-g-grnove
ex t.·grade plywood Frame 3@6' 'I. x 3'1," (octuol) cedar
Joist clip angles 4 3 x 3 x 3" x 16'gouge Stops 3@6' I x 2 S4S cedar
galvanized Panel material 12@6' I x 6 T&G V'joint
Wall Framing 545 cedar
80ttom plates I @8', 2@6' 2x 4 I·braces 2@ 10' I x 6 S4S cedar
Top plates I @8', 3@6' 2x 4 Construction adhesive I tube
Studs 14@8', 8@6' 2x 4 Interiar trim (optional) 3@6' I x 3 S45 cedar
Header 2@6' 2x 6 5trap hinges 6, with screws
Header spacer I piece @ 6' 'I, plywood - 5" wide Fasteners
Roof Framing 16d galvanized common nails 3'1, Ibs.
Rafters 6@6' 2x 6 16d common nails 3'1, Ibs.
ledger* I @6' 2x 6 lOd (ommon noils 12 nails
Roofing 10d galvanized cosing na ils 20 nails
Rool sheathing 2 sheets@4x8' '/," ext.·grade plywood 8d galvanized box na ils y, lb.
5hingles 30 sq. ft. 250# per square min. 8d galvanized finish nails 2 Ibs.
Roofing storter strip 7 linear ft. 8d common nails 24 nails
15# bu ilding paper 30 sq. ft. 8d box nails y, lb.
Metal drip edge 24 linear ft. Galvanized metal 1W' joist hanger noils 16 nails
Roofing cement I tube %- galvanized roofing noils 'I. lb.
Exterior Finishes 21f2" deck screws 6 screws
Plywood siding 4 sheets@4x8 ' 'I. Texture 1·11 plywood 1%" wood screws 60 screws
siding, grooves 8" O.c. >(-Note: 6-foot m£tlerial is often unavailable at locallulIlber
stores, so bu)' half as muc h of / 2-foot materia/.1 16 T H E COM PLETE CUJrJE TO CO NT EM PORARY SH EDS
FLOOR FRAMING PLAN
5'-10¥,"
To outsides of joists
~ 2x 6
'- Treated joists 16" O_L
f---
f---
-;;;.::: -:2-~ ~ / 4x 4 —;- —;- ;., ~ ~
'- Treated timber skids
~
0
'" f---- /
/
f---
9
-- ~ 2 x 6
Treated rim joists
ROOF FRAMING PLAN
t
5' -1 O¥,"
To outsides of rofters
t .
-
- '-
> Wolilines below
/
/
2x 6
Rofters 16" O_L
- / 2 x 6 Ledger
Si!cd Projects 117
FRONT FRAMING ELEVATION LEFT FRAMING ELEVATION
2 x 6 Ledger
-u 2 x 6 Rollers
16" O.L
Double 2 x 4
Top plole
2 x 6 Rollers,
16" O.L
2 x 6 ledger
2 x 4 Top plole Double 2 x 4
--'Ic--c- Top plate
.,.-
2-2x 6
2 x 4 Top plole
Header w/Yl"
plywood spocer ;;::
2 x 4 Siuds,
=
9"':'
c
.~
~
0 4' -9)\"
16" O.c.
"e
'"
;...
::,:,u.. 1x 4 :.,
j Rough opening Hallom plate
Y4" Plywood
2 x 6 Treated
I---- y." Plywood joists, 16" O.L
--'r ..- - - 4 x 4 Treated
2 x 6 Treated
joists, 16"O.c. limber skid
4 x 4 Treated
limber skid
REAR SIDE FRAMING ELEVATION RIGHT SIDE FRAMING ELEVATION
--'-- - - 2 x 6 Ledger 2 x 6 ledger
Double 2 x 4
~ Double 2 x 4 Top plole
--
Top plole
2 x 6 Rafters
16" O.c.
2 x 4 Studs,
~ 16" O.c. 2 x 4 Top plate
;;:: ---- 2x 4
2 x 4 Siuds, $
'"
~
'"
;... Ballom plole
16" O.L
"e
;...
2x 4 :.,
¥t Plywood Ballam plate
y," Plywood
-'-- I /
2 x 6 Treated
joists, 16" 0.C.
2 x 6 Treated
joists, 16"O.c.
" 4 x 4 Treoled 4 x 4 Treated
limber skid limber skid118 T i lE COM PL ETE CUI DE TO CONTEM PORA IW SHEDS
BUILDING SECTION SIDE ELEVATION1 x 8 FOSdlll - _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ >~
‘h” Plywood 12 Double 2 x 4 Top plate 1 x 8 Fascia ~ 6
2 x 6 Rollers, 16” O.C-~_L
Ix 4 Foscia 2x 4 Top plale 2· 2 x 6 Header w/Vt” plywood space 2 x 411udl, JU-------l x I 4 Trim “---tt~+-+_~-ll
16” O.C *” Texlure 1-11 plywood siding VI” Texture I -II plywood siding y.” Plywood
1 x 8 Trim 4 x 4 Trealeedd~_~=~8L…L-~i-.l-.J 2 x 6 Treated joist, timber skid - 16” O.C
4 x 4 Treated limber sk id
FRONT ELEVATION REAR ELEVATION
Alphalt
I I I II I I I 11--1 shingles l x 8FoS( ia
II
I I I
IT IT TT IT lIT L--- 1 x 4 fascia
,L '
-
1 x 4 Trim
Ho memade
- f-- door
-l--- 1 x 10Trim,
ripped 10 IiI YI" Texture 1·11
plywood I iding
V
V 1 x 8 Trim
/
- 4 x 4 Treated
limber skid
4 x 4Treo led
limber skid
Slwd Projects 119
WALL PLAN RAFTER TEMPLATE
'~ '~
5'·IOY'
6V
12
J0:2"
f\.\\\\~
..,,.,'"
2x 6Roiter
'I~- I y."
"
4'-9V." 2~a1 I
6W 3Vl"
I
Dimensions
6Vl" to faces 01 studs WI"
SIDE ROOF EDGE DETAIL OVERHANG DETAIL
Asphalt sh",I,,·_ _ Aspholl shingles - - - -_ _ _ _ _ _ __
15# Building poper - - - - - - - - - - - - :
2 x 6 Roher
WPlywood - _ _ __
Melal drip edge -..,,"(~
Fiberglass screen
2x 6 @ each raher spo(e
1 x 4 Fascia
VI"
2 x 4 Top plate
Ys" Plywood siding -_~" 1 x 8 Trim, notched
around rafter toils
DOOR JAMB DETAIL DOOR ELEVATION
2'-351a"
¥I"Plywood siding
--' ;;;-
1 x 3 Trim
/ VI-Joint
x 6 T&G
(optional)
2 x 411ud
16" o.c.---4t~-=l----"C:r;:~J,
/
V cedar boords
1\\
.J.-\
'"'"
'? I x 6( edor
1 x 4Trim Z-broce - \
1 x 10 Trim
ripped 10 size ---f~~==~=~=;tJ' I\~---
2 Doors required
\\
Y4" Frame - - - - - - - - - - - . J I
--' c -
OUTIIOE ELEVATION INIIOE ELEVATION
I x 21Iap - - - - - - - - - - - - - - '120 T H E CO MPLET E CUIf) E TO CONT EM PO RARY SH EDS
I How to Build the Lean-to Tool Bin
prepare the site with a 4” layer of compacted gravel. Cut the Cut plates and studs for the walls: Side walls- two two 4 x 4 skids at 70%”. Set and level the skids follOWing FLOOR bottom plates at 47’1.”, four studs at 89”, and four studs at 69”; FRAMING PLAN (page 117). Cut two 2 x 6 rim joists at 70%” and Front wall- one bottom plate at 63%”, one top plate at 70%”, six Joists at 44’1.”. Assemble the floor and set It on the skids as and four jacks studs at 63%”. Rear wall- one bottom plate at shown in the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN. Check for square, and 63%”, two top plates at 70’1/, and six studs at 89”. Mark the then anchor the frame to the skids with four Joist clip angles stud layouts onto the plates. (inset photo). Sheath the floor frame with ‘I.”’ plywood .
Fasten the four end studs of each side wall to the bottom cut the six 2 x 6 rafters following the RAFTER TEMPLATE plate. Install these assemblies. Construct the built-up 2 x 6 (page 120). Cut the 2 x 6 ledger at 70%” and bevel the top edge door header at 63%” . Frame and install the front and rear walls, at 26S so the overall width is 4’/,,”. Mark the rafter layout onto leaving the top plates off at this time. Nail together the corner the wall plates and ledger, as shown In the ROOF FRAMING studs, making sure they are plumb. Install the rear top plates PLAN (page 1171, then install the ledger flush with the back flush to the outsides of the Side wall studs. Install the front top side of the rear wall. Install the rafters. plate in the same fashion .
(continued)
Sf!ed Projects • 121
Complete the side wall framing: Cut a top plate for each Sheath the side walls and rear walls with plywood siding,
side to fit between the front and rear walls, mitering the ends keeping the bottom edges %" below the floor frame and the
at 26.5°. Install the plates flush with the outsides of the end top edges flush with the tops of the rafters. Overlap the siding
rafters. Mark the stud layouts onto the side wall bottom plates, at the rear corners, and stop it flush with the face of the
then use a plumb bob to transfer the marks to the top plate. front wall.
Cut the two studs In each wall to fit, mitering the top ends at
26.5°. Install the studs.
Add the 1 x 4 fascia over the bottom rafter ends as shown Install the 'Ii' roof sheathing, starting with a full-width
in the OVERHANG DETAIL (page 120). Install 1 x 8 fascia over sheet at the bottom edge of the roof. Fasten metal drip edge
the top rafter ends. Overhang the front and rear faSCia to cover along the front edge of the roof. Cover the roof with building
the ends of the side fascia, or plan to miter all fascia JOints. Cut paper, then add the drip edge along the Sides and top of the
the 1 x 8 side fascia to length, and then clip the bottom front roof. Shingle the roof, and fi nish the top edge with cut shingles
corners to meet the front fascia . Install the side fascia. or a solid starter strip.122 • T H E COM PLETE GUID E TO CONTEM PORA IW SH EDS
10Cut and remove the bottom plate inside the door opening. For each door, cut six 1 x 6 tongue-and-groove boards at Cut the 1 x 4 head jamb for the door frame at 57%” and cut the 63%”. Fit them together, then mark and trim the two end side jambs at 64”. Fasten the head jamb over the sides with boards so the total width is 27%”. Cut the 1 x 6 Z-brace boards 2W’ deck screws. Install 1 x 2 door stops ‘I.” from the front following the DOOR ELEVATION (page 120). The ends of the edges of jambs, as shown in the DOOR JAMB DETAIL (page horizontal braces should be 1” from the door edges. Attach the 120). Install the frame in the door opening, using shims and braces with construction adhesive and 1%” screws. Install each 10d casing nails. door with three hinges.
Staple fiberglass insect mesh along the underside of the Rip vertical and horizontal trim boards to width, then roof from each side 2 x 6 rafter. Cut and install the 1 x 8 trim notch them to fit around the rafters, as shown in the DOOR above the door, overlapping the side door jambs about y.” on JAMB DETAIL (page 120). Notch the top ends of the 1 x lOs each side (see the OVERHANG DETAIL, page 120). to fit between the rafters and install them. Add 1 x 8 trim horizontally between the 1 x lOS below the door. Install the 1 x 4 corner trim, overlapping the pieces at the rear corners.
Sf!ed Projects • 123I Convenience Shed T he Convenience Shed is so named for its exceptional versati lity and ample storage space. This classic gabled outbuilding has CI footprint that measures] 2 x 16 ft. and Above the main space of the Conve nie nce Shed is a fully framed attic built “,th 2 x 6 joists for supporti ng plenty of stored goods. The steep pi tch of th e roof allows it includes several features not found in most storage for over 3 ft. of headroom LInder the peak. Access to the sheds. For sta rters, its 8·ft.~wide overhead garage door attic is provided by a drop-down staircase that folds lip provides easy access for large equ ipment, supplies, and O llt of th e way, leaving th e \vorkspace clear helO\v. projects or even a small au to mobile. The foundation and The garage door, se rvice door, stai rcase, and both shed floor is a poured conc rete slab, so it’s ideal for heavy windows of the shed arc pre-built factory units that you items like lawn tractors and stationary too ls. install follmving the manufacturers’ instructions. Be sure To the ri ght of the garage door is a box bay to order aUof the units before starting construction. Th is vv indO\v. This spec ial architectural detail gives the ma kes it easy to adj ust the fmmed openings, if necessary, to building’s facade CI surpri sing house-l ike quality \vhile match the precise sizi ng of e(:lch unit. AJso consult your local filling the interior v,lith Ilcttural light. And the bay’s buikhng department to learn (:Ibout design requirements 33” -deep x 60”-wide s ill platform is the perfect place for the concrete foundation. l.‘Ou may need to extend ancVor fo r he rb pots or a n indoor fl ower box. The adjace nt reinforce the perimeter portion of the slab or include a wall incl udes a seco nd la rge winclm·v and a sta nd a rd footing that exte nds below the frost line. An exte nded apron se rvice door, making this end of the shed a pleasant, (as seen in the Gamb rel Ga rage, page 138) is very useful if co nven ie nt space for all kinds of wo rk or leisure. you intend to house vehicles in the shed.
124 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONT EM PORAIW SHEDS
Sf!ed Projects • 125
Cutting List
Description Quantity/ Size Material Description Quantity/ Size Material
Foundation Drip edge & gable trim 160 line" ft Ix2ced"
Droinage malerial 2.75 cu. yd. [ompoctible grovel Siding 15 sheets@4x8' 'Is" Texture 1·11
[onerete slob Field measure 3,000 psi concrete plywood siding wi
vertiml grooves 8"
Mesh 200 sq. ft. 6 x 6", W1.4 x Wl.4
on center (or similar)
welded wire mesh
Siding flashing 30 line" ft. Metoll-flashing
Reinforcing bar As required by local code As required by local code
Overhead do" iambs I @ 10', 2@8' I x 6 ced"
Wall Framing
Overhead do" stops 3@8' [ed" do" stop
Bottom plates I @ 16', 2 @ 12', 2 x 4 pressure-treated
I@IO' Overhead door surround I @ 10', 2@8' 2x 6
Top plates 2 @ 14', 4 @ 12', 2x 4 (orner trim 8@8' Ix4ced"
4@10' Door &windowhim 4@8', 5@ 10' Ix4cedor
Stond"d wall studs 51 @B" 2x 4 Box boy bottom trim 1@8' I x 10 ced"
*moy use 92%" precut studs Roofing
Diagonal bracing 5@12' I x 4 (std. lumber) Sheathing 14 sheets@4x8' V2" exteriorllrode
Jock studs 5@14' 2x 4 (& hender, stud spocers) plywood roof sheathing
Goble end studs 5@8' 2x 4 15# building paper 2 mils
Header, overhead door 2@10' 2 x 12 Shingles 4%squares Asphalt shingles -
Header, windows 2@10' 2 x 12 250# per sq. min .
Header, service door I @8' 2 x 12 Roof flashing 10'6"
Header & stud spocers See Sheathing, below Doors & Windows
Box Bay Framing Overhead g"oge door l@ %x %
w/hordwore
Holf·woll bottom plate 1@8' 2 x 4 pressure· heated
Service door I unit for 38 x 72 ~B Prehung exterior
Holf·woll top plate & studs 3@8' 2x 4
mugh opening door unit
Joist 3@8' 2x 6
Window 2unitsfor57x41%" (osement mullion
Window frome 4@12' 2x 4 window unit-complete
Sill plorlorm & top I sheet @ 4 x 8' y,"' plywood Fasteners & Hardware
Rafter blocking I @8' 2x 8 Holts wlnuts & washers 14 '!,"·dio. x 12"
Roof Framing 16d galvanized common noils 3 Ibs.
Rafters 36@10' 2x 6 16d common noils 15 Ibs.
(& lookouts, blocking)
I Dd common noils 2Y, lbs.
Ridge board I @18' 2x 8
8d box noils 16 Ibs.
Attic
8d common noils 5 Ibs.
Floor iOists 16@12' 2x 6
8d galvanized siding noils 10 Ibs.
Floor decking 6sheets@4x8' v," plywood
1 galvanized roofing noils
H 10 Ibs.
Staircase I unit for 22 x 48" Disappearing attic
8d galvanized casing nails 3 Ibs.
rough opening stair unit
Entry door lockset I
Exterior Finishes
Eo" fascia 2@18' 2x8cedor
Goble fascia 4@ID' I x 8 cedor126 T H E COMPLETE CU JrJ E TO CONTEM PORARY SHEDS
FOUNDATION PLAN
IS' -IOY'
9%" 7'-10" I' -II ¥'" 4'-6" 9Y{
'[ '[ [ '[ ""
I~
~
~~ . 1-------------------------- ,
• • • • . r-C-
1
t 1?At
~ 2
'"
'" 4" Reinforced (oncrete slob wi
6 x 6 W2.9 x 2.9 wire mesh
over 4" compacted granular fill
~
~ . . [-
Ie""
:=
-'-
1%" Typical 10 cenler of
%" dia. x 12" anchor bolts
~ ~
'" '"
l _________________________ ~
"~ ~ .
•
'" • •• • ~Ie
} 4l\" 9' 1" 4y'{l S'-6V' l6" "" ~
FOUNDATION DETAIL BUILDING SECTION
2 )( 8 Ridge board
VI" Plywood flooring
Disappearing
sloirwoy- - -___
l~" Typical 10 (enler of
%" dio. x 12" anchor bolts4” Reinforced concrete 1>6 TI-II w/6 x 6 W2.9 x 2.9 wire Trim board ~ Siding mesh over 4” compacted ,.., ”- gravel 2x4 W,II slud 2 -#4 — ------ ’< To extend below II’ -lOY. ~
10(01 frost line (12” min. 1’-0” wino frost line) 2 x 4 Ballam plate 4” gravel bed, compacted
Si!cd Projects 127
FRONT ELEVATION
Self·" ol'hingles--.
r---
I x 2 Drip edge '"
~
2 x S Fascia
i;f-
rn
II v
(osem enl window II I
I x 4 Trim - - - - -
r II I
S"·wid
e --------
Overh eod door
I II I
11 ·11 Siding -
Grode
I II I
I /
I /
l __ /
RIGHT SIDE ELEVATION REAR ELEVATION
I x 2 Drip. e ge 12
sV:;:;
Ix
S FOIci, ~ """"f<;",
I x 2Trim ~ ",,:;;"" f',f', Self-seal shingles
Z·lIo ,hing .d.:d ~
~ I
1'·6"
(ase menl
wind ow-
- /.
S"
Ix 4
Trim -
Ix4 '---
Trim
e--
11 ·1I Siding -
Grad e
1/ -
~
'-
--I Gro ) i-1
(oncrele slob
'- I
'- _J
(one rete slob 11 ·11 Siding wi
grooves, S" o.c.128 T H E C O~ IPL E T E CU ID E TO CO NTEM PORA RY SH ED S
WALL FRAMING PLAN
WIOY,"
6' H,
Ponel ~ ( " Ponel MB"
2 - 2 x 12 Headers
l--:t
i!;
wI V1" plywood belweerr---
•
Disappearing stair ~ __ .., l' -0'
0q---::~
L. I :... ... < <=>
~
- f'
~II ;:t::~
~-;;;""7
I I GFI :::~;::
.if!. I I "
I I I
L _ _ --.J
I •
~:'''.
I
,Gil ~+ I
•
!/ s' x 7' Overhead door -- ~
. :I ~ '"
2'-0" 2' -0" "l'>,
- - - . 1-1-
,, "" " " '" GFI
WP/ GFI,/!
, " . "" "" '"
'"
Note: Wiring pions
ore optional
\ 2 - 2 x 12 Headers
w/W plywood between
J+ 5'-0"
Panel "G"
I,
9' ·8Va" 6' -2V,
Ponel " E" Ponel " F"
BACK SIDE FRAMING LEFT SIDE FRAMING
12
2 x 8 Ridge board sV::::
2 x 4 Gable studs
2 x 6 Rafters --r-- /"
15\\" 16" 16" 16" S" S" 16" 16" 16" 15\\"
2 x 4 Tie plole ............... 11'-1011"
\
9' OY," 6; 3V." r-=- 2 x 4 \lYrfl ” I’ (r lY, Ti. pl,l. l
+
T ”
~ ’/ 2 x 4 Top plale 1.4
~ / 1.4
T,p pi, I.-V
~” f ~ Oi,goo,1 bro<ing Id V ~
’ \ ” - Siocking b.lween
Diogon ,1 /
bracing
I~~
~~
(orner studs
I” ”,,’- 1’//
r’.”
,5 I---- __ 1.4
w,n sl uds
~~
I I. - 2 x 4 Wall studs
16” 16 16 16” 16 16 16” 16” 16”16
1.4
I Poo.I “S” I 2d Boltom, I----
lE·r 11 Va” Bottom pi ole 11 \ 16” 16” 16” 16” 16” 16” 16” 11 \
11’-3 l/4”
Ponel “D”
Si!cd Projects 129
FRONT SIDE FRAMING
8" lWo" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" ¥o"~ W 16" 16" 16" YO" IO" 8"
2 x 6 Lookouts,
1I 2'-0" O.C
~ V 2 x 8 Ridge board
== 2 x 6 Rollers
- -- - - I - JIL I 2 x 6 Allie floor joists,
--
-~ -~ ~~
I
I I 16" O.C
I I
Secondary cui needed for box bay window ~ 2 ' 4Tieplale
3Y,." F===;;=;;;';;;====:=======;9;c'_"0~"'o"C======~r 3 y,"
ly,"
\
'r+ 6' 3Y' ,f 'r'r
2 x 4 Top plate
\'-0"
R.O.* ~ Blocking between
~ * corner studs
~ wi
-6
~ ~
=
e ,.,
""7 ....
--
~"]
~
g;
-;-
:",
$:
; Ti I ;
2 - 2x 12 Header
Y!" plywood spocer
;-:::
'"
N ---- 2 x 4 Top plate
2 x 4 Bottom plate
1% 3W-- i-- 4Y" 8'2" 4Yo"il 16" 16" 16" -- 3%"
wi/'
' 2Y{
..
9' ·8Y,"
Ponel E 4Y1 60/.
6' -2VO" 5Yo"/'
Ponel F".
ATTIC FLOOR JOIST FRAMING BOX BAY WINDOW FRAMING
2>6
Allie floor joists,
16"0.C
3V?
n n n ,,-5'V,.
5'-0"
- ( )- 2 - 2 x 4 Header ---- R.O, * .
n' p.c
.0. 2 x 4 Side stud - - - -
2 x 41i11 plale
~
~,
~
-,.
6
I'
WI" ,[ 16"t I6"t, 16" 5Yo"
2 x 6 Extension box
boy joists 5' 0"
---~,
'-- Ponel ~ G "
3%"
I
- -- - - -- - - - - -- -
13Vi" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" I ¥t 15Y4 16" 16 Va"
6¥t 9Yt130 THE COMPLETE CUIf) E TO CONTEM POR ARY SHEDS
OVERHEAD DOOR HEADER DETAILSelf-seal shingles over #15 building paper over It exlerior grade plywood
2 x 6 Blocking :-;-:_ _ _ _ _ _ _==
2 x 6 Floor joisls, 16” O.c
2 )( 6 Roller, 16” O.C
2 )( 4 TIe plate
2 )( 4 Top plate
1 )( 2 Drip edge
2 )( 8 Fascia
II -II Siding
2 - 2 x 12 Header wi I )” plywood spocer
2)( 6 Trim
Caulk @ joint
Shim spoce
1 )( 4 Wood trim 6’· JOI ,”
1 )( 6 Ripped To lop 01
concrete slob
Wood door slop’ ===::::=:::::=-------:jt~U
Overhead door ~
OVERHEAD DOOR JAMB DETAIL SERVICE DOOR HEADER/JAMB DETAIL
2)( 4 Tie plate ----t~~~
2 )( 4 Top plate ----nL;::o,.J
2- 2x 12 Header
W/ll" plywood spocer2 )( 6 Surround II -II Siding - -_ _ + Caulk @ joint
Shim spoce
1 )( 4 Wood trimWood door slop 1 )( 6 Ripped Shim spoce Wood slop
2 )( 4 Wall stud
I )( 6 Ripped -’-’-‘v’llL==~ Shim spoce
1 )( 4 Wood trim 2 )( 4 Wall stud I Service door {
Caulk @ joint ~j=i=~~:;~S~~~~t/: : ~ WOOd door l I ll -II Siding slop I dRipped Caulk @ joinl 1 x 4 Wood Irim
Si!ed Projects 13 1
RAFTER TEMPLATE CORNER DETAIL
Optional V,"
gypsum board
9' -2Y,"
l V." 8'-IO Yl" JI·lI liding
2 x 4 Wall
t 2x6Ralter
/1 studs
II interior finish "u";:-::,,j
l' ·9Ya" 6'-8Y&" l Ya" is used,
add2 x 4slud
-~~~~====J
1 x 4 (orner
Secondary wt for rafters trim
10/1,"
over box bay windowonly
Blocking between
1%" corner studs
(aulk @ joint
BOX BAY WINDOW DETAIL ISOMETRIC
Sell-seal shingles over , - - - - - - - - - 2 x6 Allie
#15 building paper over floor joists,
%" exterior-grade plywood 16' O.C
2 x 6 Blocking ,-----2 x 8
board
2 x 6 Rafters, 16" O.c.
x 6 Lookouts,
2 x 6 Allie floor joists, 16" O.c. 2'·0' O.C
2 x 4 Tie plate
2 x 4 Top plate
2>4
spacer Gable studs
Ix2 @16'
Drip edge
1 x 4 Diagonal bracing
2 x8
Foscio 2 x 4 Wall studs,
16' O.C
2 x 2 Nailer
%" 1
2 x 411ud
2 x 41ill
plate
2 x 68ay 2x 4
extension j lill plale
I' x 10'
Yl" Plywood
Ripped to
2x 6
4" Reinforced Joists
conuete slo b over 4"
compacted granular lill132 T H E COM PL ETE CUtrlE TO CONTEM PORARY SH EDS
I How to Build the Convenience Shed
Build the concrete foundation using the specifications Snap chalk lines for the bottom plates so they will be flush shown In the FOUNDATION DETAIL (page 127) and following with the outside edges of the foundation . You can frame the the basic procedure on pages 36 to 39. The slab should walls In four continuous panels or break them up Into panels measure 190%” x 142%”. Set the 14 J-bolts into the concrete “p;’ through T’, as shown in the WALL FRAMING PLAN (page as shown in FOUNDATION PLAN (page 127). Note: All slab 129). we completely assembled and squared all four walls specifications must comply with local building codes. before ra ising and anchoring them.
Frame the back wall(s) following the BACK SIDE FRAMING Raise the back wall and anchor It to the foundation J-bolts (page 129). use pressure treated lumber for the bottom plate, with washers and nuts. Brace the wall upright. Frame and and nail it to the studs with galvanized 16d common nails. All raise the rema ining walls one at a time, then tie all of the walls of the standard studs are 92%” long. Square the wall, then add together with double top plates. Cover the outside of the walls 1 x 4 let-in bracing. with T1-11 siding.
(continued)
Sf!ed Projects • 133
Mark the joist layout onto the wall plates following the
Cut fifteen 2 x 6 attic floor joists at 142%". Cut the top ATIlC FLOOR JOIST FRAMING (page 130). Leave 3'1/' between
corner at both ends of each JOist: Mark FI,' along the top edge the outsides of the end walls and the outer jOists. Toenail the
and "/'o" down the end; connect the marks, then cut along jOists to the plates with three 8d common nails at each end.
the line. Clipping the corner prevents the jOist from extending Frame the rough opening for the staircase with doubled side
above the rafters. JOists and doubled headers; fasten doubled members together
with pairs of 10d nails every 16". Install the drop-down
staircase unit following the manufacturer's instructions.
Cover the attic floor with Vi' plywood, fastening it to the Use the RAFTER TEMPLATE (page 132) to mark and cut
jOists with 8d nails. two pattern rafters. Test-flt the rafters and adjust the cuts as
needed. Cut all (24) standard rafters. Cut four special rafters
with an extra blJd's-mouth cut for the box bay. Cut four gable
overhang rafters- these have no bird's-mouth cuts.134 • T H E COM PL ETE GUIDE TO CONT EM PORA IW SHED S
cut the 2 x 8 ridge board at 206%”. Mark the rafter layout on Mark the stud layout for the gable end walls onto the end the ridge and wall plates as shown in the FRONT SIDE FRAMING wall plates following the SIDE FRAMING (page 129). Transfer the (page 130) and BACK SIDE FRAMING (page 129). Frame the roof layout to the rafters, using a level. Cut each of the 2 x 4 studs following the steps on pages 48 to 51. Install 6%“-long lookouts to fit, mitering the top ends at 33.5°. Install the studs flush with 24” on center, then attach the overhang rafters. Fasten the attic the end walls. Joists to the rafters with three 10d nails at each end.
construct the 2 x 4 half-wall for the intenor apron beneath Cut six 2 x 6 joists at 36W. Toenail the joists to the Inner and the box bay: Cut two plates at 60” (pressure-treated lumber for outer half-walls follOWing the layout in the BOX BAY WINDOW bottom plate); cut five studs at 32Yi’. Fasten one stud at each FRAMING (page 130); the joists should extend 15” past the outer end, and space the remaining studs evenly in between. Mark a shed wall. Add a 6O”-long 2 x 4 sill plate at the ends of the JOiStS. layout line 12” from the inside of the shed’s front wall (see the Cut two 2 x 4 side studs to extend from the sill plate to the top BUILDING SECTION page 127). Anchor the half-wall to the slab edges of the rafters (angle top ends at 33S), and install them. using masonry screws or a powder-actuated nailer. Install a built-up 2 x 4 header between the Side studs 41%” above the sill plate.
(continued)
Sf!ed Projects • 135
Install a 2 x 2 nailer W' up from the bottom of the 2 x 4 bay Bevel the side edge of the 2 x 6 blocking stock at 33.5°.
header. Cover the top and bottom of the bay with W' plywood Cut individual blocks to fit between the rafters and attic jOists,
as shown in the BOX BAY WINDOW DETAIL. Cut a 2 x 4 stud to and install them to seal off the rafter bays; see the OVERHEAD
fi t between the plywood panels at each end of the 2 x 4 shed DOOR HEADER (page 131). The blocks should be flush with
wall header; fasten these to the studs supporting the studs the tops of the rafters. Custom-cut 2 x 8 blocking to enclose
and the header. the rafter bays above the box bay header; see the BOX BAY
WINDOW DETAIL.
Add 2 x 8 fascia to the ends of the rafters along each Add Z-flashing above the first row of siding, then cut and
eave so the top outer edge will be flush with the top of the roof fitT1-11 siding for the gable ends. Cover the horizontal seam
sheathing. Cover the gable overhang rafters with 1 x 8 fascia. with 1 x 4 trim snugged up against the flashing .
Add 1 x 2 trim to serve as a drip edge along the eaves and
gable ends so it will be flush with the top of the roof sheathing.136 • THE COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORA IW SHEDS
TO complete the t rim details, add 1 x 2 along the gable Rip-cut 1 x 6 boards to 4W’ wide for the overhead door ends and sides of the box bay. Use 1 x 4 on all vertical corners jambs. Insta ll the jambs using the door manufacturer’s and around the windows, service door, and overhead door. dimensions for the opening. Shim behind the jambs If RIp down 1 x 10s for hOrizontal trim along the bottom of the necessary Make sure the jambs are flush with the inSide of the box bay Also cover underneath the bay JOists with Vi’ exterior- wall framing and extend %” beyond the outside of the framing . grade plywood. Install the 2 x 6 trim as shown In the OVERHEAD DOOR HEADER and OVERHEAD DOOR JAMB.
Install the two windows and the service door following Install’ ,” plywood roof sheathing, starting at the bottom the manufacturers’ instructions. Position the jambs of the units ends of the rafters. Add building paper and asphalt shingles so they will be flush with the siding, if applicable. Install the following the steps on pages 55 to 57. overhead door, then add stop molding along the top and side jambs; see the SERVICE DOOR HEADER/JAMB.
Sf!ed Projects • 137I Gambrel Garage F allowing classic barn des igns , this 12 x ] 2-ft. garage-size storage shed has severa l features that make it a versa tile stomge shed or <‘orkshop. The garctge’s I44-squa re-foot floor is a poured concrete slab v.lith a thi ckened edge that all mvs it to serve as the hu ildi ng’s foundati on. Designed fo r economy and durab ili ty, th e floor can easily support heavy mac hin ery, wood wo rking tools , and rec reational veh icles . The garage’s section al overhead door makes for qU ick access to equip ment and supplies and provides ple nty of air and natu ral light for ,vo rlGng inside. The door opening is sized for an 8-ft.-wide x 7-ft.-tall door, but you ca n buy any size or style of door YOll li ke- just make your door se lection be fore YOLI start framing the ga rage. Ano th er im portant design featu re of th is building is its gambrel roof, w hich maxim izes th e usable inte rior space (see Sidebar next page). Beneath th e roof is a sizeable storage attic wit h 3 J5 cubic feet of space and its own double doors above the garage door. Note: we added a patio section to the front of this shed. 17J.is optional slab will appear throughout the how-to photos.
138 • T H E COMPLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORA IW SHEDS
The Gambrel Roof ~ The gambrel roof is the defining feature of two structures in American architecture: the barn and the Dutch Colonial house. Adopted from earlier English buildings, the gambrel style became popular in America during the early 17th century and was used on homes and farm buildings throughout the Atlantic region. Today, the gambrel roof remains a favorite detail for designers of sheds, garages, and carriage houses. The basic gambrel shape has two flat planes on each side, with the lower plane sloped much more steeply than the upper More elaborate versions Incorporate a flared eave, known as a “Dutch kick,” that was often extended to shelter the front and rear facades of the bUilding. Barns typically feature an extended peak at the front, sheltering the doors of the hayloft. The main advantage of the gambrel roof is the Increased space underneath the roof, providing additional headroom for upper floors In homes or extra storage space in outbuildings.
Sf!ed Proj ects • 139
Cutting List
Description Quantity/ Size Material Description Quantity/ Size Material
Foundation Roofing
Droinoge material 1.7 5 cu. yds. (ompactible grovel Roof sheothing 12 sheets@4x8' '/," plywood
(oncrete slob 2.5 cu. yds. 3,000 psi concrete Shingles 3 squares 250# per squore (min.)
Mesh 144 sq. fl. 6 x 6", Wl.4 x Wl.4 15# building poper 300 sq. fl.
welded wire mesh Metol drip edge 2@14 ',2@12' Golvonized metal
Wall Framing Roof vents (optional) 2 units
Bottom plotes 4@12' 2 x 4 pressure-treated Window
Top plates 8@12' 2x 4 3@6' l\ x 4" (actual) S4S cedor
Frame
Studs 47@92'1s" 2x 4
Stops 4@8' I x 2 S4S cedor
Heoders 2@10',2@6' 2x 8
Glozing tope 30 lineor ft.
Header splicers I @9', I @6' '/," plywood -)" wide
Gloss 1 piece - field measure 1;'" clear, tempered
Angle broces I @4' 2x 4
Exterior trim 3@6' I x 4 S4S cedor
Gable Wall Framing
Interior trim (optional) 3@6' I x 2 S4S cedor
Plates 2@10' 2x 4
Door
Studs 7@10' 2x 4
Frame 3@8' I x 6 S4S cedor
Heoder 2@6' 2x 6
Door sill I @6' I x 6 S4S cedor
Header splicer I @S' '/," plywood-S" wide
Stops I @8', 1@6' I x 2 S4S cedor
Attic Floor
Ponel material 4@8' I x 8 T&G V-joint
Joists 10@12' 2x 6 S4S cedor
Floor sheothing 3 sheets@4x8' Y/ tongue-&-groove Door X-broce/panel trim 4@ 6', 2@ 8' I x 4 S4S cedor
ext.-grode plywood
Exterior trim I @8', 1@6' I x 4 S4S cedor
Kneewall Framing
Interior trim (optional) I @8', 1@6' I x 2 S4S cedor
Bottom plotes 2@ 12 ' 2x 4
StTOP hinges 4
Top plates 4@ 12' 2x 4
Garage Door
Studs 8@ 10' 2x 4
Frame 3@8' I x 8 S4S cedor
Nailers 2@ 14 ' 2x 8
Door I @ 8' x 6' -8" Sectional flush door
Roof Framing
w/2" trock
Rafters 28@ 10' 2x 4 Roils 2@8' 2x 6
Metol anchors - rafters 20, with nails Simpson H2_S Trim 3@8' I x 4 S4S cedor
(ollor ties 2@6' 2x 4 Fasteners
Ridge boord I @14' 2x 6 Anchor bolts 16 %- x 8", with washers
lookouts I@IO' 2x 4 &nuts, golvonized
Soffit ledgers 2@ 14' 2x 4 16d golvonized common nails 2 Ibs.
Soffit blocking 6@8' 2x 4 16d common nails 17 Ibs.
Exterior Finishes 10d common nails 2 Ibs.
Plywood siding 14 sheets@4x8' 'Is" Texture I-II plywood, 10d golvonized cosing nails I Ib_
grooves 8" 0_ C. 8d (ommon nails 3 Ibs.
I-flashing -siding 2 pieces@ 12' Golvonized 18-gouge 8d golvonized finish nails 6 Ibs.
Horizontal wall trim 2@12' Ix4cedor 8d box nails 6 Ibs.
Corner trim 8@8' Ix4cedor 6d golvonized finish nails 20 noils
Fascio 6@ 10', 2@8' Ix6cedor 3d golvonized box noils '/, lb.
Subloscio 4@8' I x 4 pine Va" golvonized roofing nails 2'/' Ibs.
Plywood soffits I sheet@ 10' Ys" cedor or fir plywood 2112" deck screws 24 screws
Soffit vents 4@4xl2" louver w/ bug screen 1%"wood screws 48 screws
I-flashing - goroge door I @IO' Golvonized 18-gouge (onstruction adhesive 2 tubes
Silicone-latex coulk 2 tubes140 T H E COM PL ETE CU JrJ E TO CONTEM PORARY SHEDS
BUILDING SECTION
S'·ll¥t 1'-6 Y."
2 x 6 Ridge
~~~~~;;~~-==j==t==
~:
2 x 4 (oliar, 32' 0.(.
,~--t----lr--- Plywood roof sheathing
yt
~...--I---f---;7 2 x 4 Roher, 16" 0.(.1’::----=t===T=7~::::::-------------=::::iF-b_L:..- Double 2 x 4 lop plales
2 x 8 Nailer
:----_j;i.~— 2 x 4 Soltom plole, set on joistsl—“i-AfJJj============:;;;=!±:::f==- 2 x 4 Studs, 16’ 0.(.
-“I---+c—’------++I i*--------------.::,.,<----=""-
*"betwPlywood, set
een ploles
1 x 6 Fascia
2 x 6 Joists, 16" o.c
Double 2 x 4 lop ploles
2 . 2 x 8 Header
wi Yl" plywood spacer
Texture 1-11 plywood siding. : ==k===~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~§=:2 x 4 Studs, 16” 0.(.
3%” Concrete slab on-grade
4” Compacted grovel
Si!cd Projects 14 1
FLOOR PLAN
Roof lines shown dashed
2 x 4 Studs 16" O.c.
31h" Floaling concrete slob on-grade
wi 6 x 6' ~ 10/10W~W.M.
I' I'
-r.-
8' x 6' -8" Garage door
I' I' , :
... _.. --- _.- --~.-- .- --- --- _.- --- --- _.- --- --- _. --- --- --- -- - ------ --- --- --- .- ....- --- _.- -- ----
Rough opening
2' ·0" S' O" 2'·0"
12'·0"
Dimensions are 10 outside faces of studs142 T tt E CO tP L E TE CU tD E TO CO NT EM PORA RY SHEDS
RAFTER TEMPLATES
11
Rool
slope
14
1 x 4 Rafter- - --\-
11
Rool
slope 61 x 4 Rafter
4- 1Yo"
-+J-
Si!cd Projects 143
FRONT ELEVATION LEFT SIDE ELEVATION
Roof venl
Double door-
see detail
Asphoh shingles
1 x4 Trim
I
1 x 6 Fascia
Pork chop
Flashing
1 x 6 Fascia
1 x 4 Trim,
mitered corners 1 x 4 Trim/-
mitered corners
Texture ]·11
plywood siding Texture 1-11 -
Flush overhead ~Iywood S:d~
garage door
I X 4Trim ~~
1 x 4 Trim
Window with
14" dear
tempered gloss
REAR ELEVATION RIGHT SIDE ELEVATION
12 Asphoh shingles
617
1 x 4 Trim
1 x 6 Fascia
1 x 6 Fascia
1 x 4 Trim, 1 x 4 Trim
mitered corners
Texlure 1·11
plywood siding Texture 1·11
plywood siding144 T H E CO MPLET E CU Jrl E TO CO NT EM PO RARY SH EDS
GABLE OVERHANG DETAIL GABLE OVERHANG RAFTER DETAILSAsphalt shingles over 15# building paper W Plywood Melal drip edge 2x 4 Overhang ralters 1 x 6 Fascia 2 2 x 4 Rofter ¥a” Plywood soffit 4 Overhang rohers 01 front & reor 2 x 4 Lookouts (side view) 16” 0.(. w ~ S” Texture ]-11 plywood siding S’
2 x 4 Ilud ~-;:::‘r==:>’=—’ 16” 0.(. rafter 01 IranI (lop view)
EAVE DETAIL SILL DETAIL
2 x 4 Ilud - - - - - - - - - - ,
Anchors @ each rafter
Texture 1-11 plywood siding
Asphalt shingles V," Anchor boll,
over 1S# building paper S" long, 4'·0" 0.(. mox .
6"from corner
V{ Plywood
2x4Roiter
3%"(oncrele
2 x 4 Ilud 16" 0.(. slob-on-grade. wi 6 x 6"-
Wl.4 x Wl.4 W.W.M.
2 x 4 Soffillroming ~, 4
Melal drip edge
Grode
1 x 4 Subfosdo
1 x 6 Fascia
,U---\---tlfH--- 2 x 4 loffilledger
Soffit venl
4" Compocted grovel
' - - - - - - - - Y," Plywood soffit S"
' - - - - - - - - - I"lure 1·11
plywood siding
S/!ed Projects 145
ATTIC DOOR ELEVATION
1 x 4 Boards glued
and mewed 10
1 x 8 boards
I x 8 T&G V-JT
boards
Slrop hinge
ATTIC DOOR JAMB DETAIL GARAGE DOOR TRIM DETAIL
1 x 2 Trim
*" Frome
2
Sectional garage door
2x 6 Roil
,.." Boord door
wi 1 x 4 broce I x 6 Full-depth fro me
'- \4"
I x 4Trim 1 x 4 Trim
Texture I-I! Texture 1-11
plywood siding plywood siding
ATTIC DOOR SILL DETAIL WINDOW JAMB DETAIL
I x 2110p CuI slope
• lor drainOge\
..J~t-Il-+_- l x 6 Frome, ripped to IiI
T&G 1 x 8 door ponel ~ ~===='t;-y..
1 x 2 Redwood slop 1 x 2 Trim
"""§2ll!§"""~~l---titl-- *" Plywood 01 window sill 1 x 2SIop
~1.,II--I--I1t:r-- 2 x 6Allie joists 16"0,(.
Glozing lope, both sides
1 x 4 Door slile & roil
Sloped slop @ still
Iloped sill cui
from 1 x 6 cedar
If," x Vi" Drip edge
1ft (Ieor gloss, tempered
1 x 4Trim
I x2110p
_--lIl- -- 2 x 4 Ilud 1 x 4 Trim
~_-- Texture 1·11 plywood siding
' - - - - - - - - - Texture \-11 plywood siding146 T H E COM PL ETE CUIf) E TO CONTEM POR ARY SHEDS
FRONT FRAMING ELEVATION LEFT SIDE FRAMING ELEVATION
2 x 6 R'd
'~
2 x 6 Ridge
4' -11 1ft" Oouhle 2 x 4 2 x 4( ~lIor lie -
Rough opening stud under ridge 32" 0,(Gohle . 011 top plote 2 x 4 Rafters 2x SN oiler 2 - 2 x 6 ~—~~~~~~==~~~ ----.: Header W/Yl” plywood spocer 2x 4R oilers …,
2 x 6 JOiSIS ~ '--
----- RI:2’-1X4ltUd’~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 2x 4
Douhle 2 x 4
top plot os :]
.~ Angle broce,
2x 4
~ g. installed @ 45 0 lollitle dger / f-:”
Co 1> 9
‘7 2-2x 8
S Hooder V
/ ’”
~ :.:. Header w/’h” f— -----
;:Sv
Iywood 'poeer /
;;:~
~ plywood spocer
;., 2 x 4 Itud, Douhle----‘t-+:‘lsC=========~ 16” O_C 2x 41tud
~ f
2 x 4Treoted
16" 0,(
-"-'
0' '2'-0",.,
----''--+-____,--''---''----____ f2':'-!!.
"--+~' bollom plole
I I S'-O"
Rough opening
----->1_
_ '_
2 x 4 Treoted
bollom plole
REAR FRAMING ELEVATION RIGHT SIDE FRAMING ELEVATION
2x 6Ridge
Double 2 x 4 2 x 6 R'Id ge
stud under ridge 14' -0" Ridge length
2 x 4 (0 liar lie,
~-
2 x 8 Nailer 32" D,C
12
6 v:: 2 x Ho
1'-.:>.".------ Gohle .011 16" O_C
lop plole
2x 4R oilers
2 x 4 Rafters
2x SN oiler -
t
2 x 6 Jo isis
./
2x 4
f--
d~,V
lollitle
.'"
Soffit blocking
Douhle 2 x4
2x 4
Soflitledger
Douhle 2 x 4
lop plole
2 x 41t
16" O_C ~
f- --
lop ploles 2 x 4 Treoted
bollom plole
2 x 4 Studs
16" O_C
2 x 4 Treated
hallam plole
Si!cd Projects 147
I How to Build the Gambrel Garage
Build the slab foundation at 144" x 144", following the steps Snap chalk lines on the slab for the wall plates. Cut two bottom
on page 36. Set I-bolts into the concrete 1%" from the outer plates and two top plates at 137" for the sidewalls. Cut two
edges and extending 2y," from the surface. Set a bolt 6" from bottom and two top plates at 144" for the front and rear walls. Use
each corner and every 48" in between (except in the door pressure-treated lumber for all bottom plates. Cut 38 studs at 92%",
opening). Let the slab cure for at least three days before you plus two jack studs for the garage door at 78W and two window
begin construction. studs at 75W'. Note: Add the optional slab now, as desired.
construct the built-up 2 x 8 headers at 99" (garage door) Build the attic floor, Cut ten 2 x 6 joists to 144" long, then
and 63" (window). Frame, install, and brace the walls with clip each top corner with a 1W-long, 45 cut Install the jOists
0
double top plates one at a time, following the FLOOR PLAN as shown In the FRAMING ELEVATIONS, leaving a 3Yi' space
(page 142) and ELEVATION drawings (page 144). use galvanized at the front and rear walls for the gable wall studs. Fasten the
nails to attach the studs to the sale plates. Anchor the walls to JOists with three 8d nails at each end.
the I-bolts In the slab with galvanized washers and nuts.148 • T H E COM PLETE GUID E TO CONTEM PORA IW SH ED S
Frame the attic kneewalls: Cut four top plates at 144” and Cover the attic oor between the kneewalls with %” two bottom plates at 137”. Cut 20 studs at 26%” and four end plywood. Run the sheets perpendicular to the joists, and stop studs at 33%”. Layout the plates so the studs fall over the attic them flush with the outer joists. Fasten the flooring with 8d JOiStS. Frame the walls and install them 18Va” from the ends of ring-shank nails every 6” along the edges and every 12” In the the joists, then add temporary bracing. Option: You can begin field of the sheets. building the roofframe by cutting two 2 x 8 nailers to 144” long Fasten the nailers to the kneewalls so their top edges are 32%” above the attic jOists.
Mark the rafter layouts onto the top and outside faces of Cut the 2 x 6 ridge board at 168”, mitering the front end at the 2 x 8 nailers; see the FRAMING ELEVATIONS. 16°. Mark the rafter layout onto the ridge. The outer common rafters should be 16” from the front end and 8” from the rear end of the ridge.
(continued)
Sf!ed Projects • 149
Use the RAFTER TEMPLATES (page 143) to mark and cut two Install the common rafters; then reinforce the joints at the
upper pattern rafters and one lower pattern rafter Test-fit the knee walls with framing connectors. Also nail the attic joists
rafters and make any needed adjustments. use the patterns to to the sides of the floor rafters. Cut four 2 x 4 collar ties at
mark and cut the remaining common rafters (20 total of each 34", mitering the ends at 26.5" . Fasten them between pairs of
type). For the gable overhangs, cut an additional eight lower upper rafters, as shown in the BUILDING SECTION (page 141)
and six upper rafters following the GABLE OVERHANG RAFTER and FRAMING ELEVATIONS.
DETAILS (page 145).
Snap a chalk line across the sidewall studs, level with Frame the gable overhangs. Cut 12 2 x 4 lookouts at 5"
the ends of the rafters. Cut two 2 x 4 soffit ledgers at 160" and nail them to the inner overhang rafters as shown in the
and fasten them to the studs on top of the chalk lines, with LEFT and RIGHT SIDE FRAMING ELEVATIONS. Install the inner
their ends overhanging the walls by 8". Cut 24 2 x 4 blocks to overhang rafters over the common rafters, using 10d nails.
fi t between the ledger and rafter ends, as shown in the EAVE Cut the two front (angled) overhang rafters; see the GABLE
DETAIL (page 145). Install the blocks. OVERHANG RAFTER DETAILS. Install those rafters; then add two
custom-cut lookouts for each rafter.150 • T H E COM PLETE GUID E TO CONTEM PORA IW SH EDS
TO complete the gable walls, cut top plates to fit between Install siding on the walls, holding it 1” below the top of the ridge and the attic kneewalls. Install the plates flush with the concrete slab. Add Z-flashing along the top edges, and the outer common rafters. Mark the stud layout onto the then continue the siding up to the rafters. Below the attic door walls and gable top plate; see the FRONT and REAR FRAMING opening, stop the siding about %” below the top wall plate, as ELEVATIONS. Cut the gable studs to fit and install them. shown in the ATTIC DOOR SILL DETAIL (page 146). Don’t nail the Construct the built-up 2 x 6 attic door header at 62Y;’; then clip siding to the garage door header until the flashing IS installed the top corners to match the roof slope. Install the header with (Step 20) jack studs cut at 40%”.
Mill a ’,‘-wide x ’ .”-deep groove into the 1 x 6 boards for Install the 1 x 4 subfascia along the eaves, keeping the the horizontal fascia along the eaves and gable ends (about bottom edge flush with the ends of the rafters and the ends 36 linear ft.); see the EAVE DETAIL. Use a router or table saw flush with the outsides of the outer-most rafters; see the EAVE with a dado-head blade to mill the groove, and make the DETAIL. Add the milled fascia at the eaves, aligning the top of groove ‘is” above the bottom edge of the fascia. the groove with the bottom of the subfascla. Cut fascia to wrap around the overhangs at the gable ends but don’t install them until Step 17.
(continued)
Sf!ed Projects ' 151
7
Soffit panel
'\
Soffit panel
Soffit ledger
Add fascia at the gable ends, holding it up)/," to be flush Sheath the roof, starting at one of the lower corners. Add
with the roof sheathing. Cut soffit panels to fit between the metal drip edge along the eaves, followed by building paper;
fascia and walls, and fasten them with 3d galvanized nails. then add drip edge along the gable ends, over the paper Install
Install the end and return faSCia pieces at the gable overhangs. the asphalt shingles (see page 56) . Plan the courses so the
Enclose each overhang at the corners with a triangular piece roof transition occurs midshingle, not between courses; the
of grooved fascia (called a pork chop) and a piece of soffit overlapping shingles will relax over time. If desired, add roof
material. Install the soffit vents as shown in the EAVE DETAIL. vents (page 58).
20
Cover the Z-flashing at the rear wall with horizontal 1 x 4 For the garage doorframe, rip 1 x 8 trim boards to width
trim . Finish the four wall corners with overlapping vertical so they cover the front wall siding and 2 x 6 rails, as shown
1 x 4 trim. Install the 2 x 6 ralls that will support the garage in the GARAGE DOOR TRIM DETAIL. Install the trim, mitering
door tracks, following the door manufacturer's instructions to the pieces at 22S. Install the 1 x 4 trim around the outside
determine the sizing and placement; see the GARAGE DOOR of the opening, adding flashing along the top; see the FRONT
TRIM DETAIL (page 146). ELEVATION (page 144).152 • T H E COM PLETE GUID E TO CONTEM PORA IW SH EDS
Install the garage door in the door opening, following the Build the window frame, which should be Y/ narrower and manufacturer’s directions. shorter than the rough opening. Install the frame using shims and 10d galvanized casing nails, as shown in the WINDOW JAMB DETAIL (page 146). Cut eight 1 x 2 stop pieces to fit the frame. Bevel the outer sill stop for drainage. Order glass to fit, or cut your own plastic panel. Install the glazing and stops, using glazing tape for a watertight seal. Add the window trim.
For the attic doorframe, rip 1 x 6s to match the depth of Build the attic doors as shown in the ATTIC DOOR the opening and cut the head jamb and side jambs. Cut the Sill ELEVATION (page 1461. using glue and 1%” screws. Each door from full-width 1 x 6 stock; then cut a kerf for a drip edge (see measures 28W’ x 38”, including the panel braces. Cut the 1 x 8 the ATTIC DOOR SILL DETAIL). Fasten the head jamb to the side panel boards about y.” short along the bottom to compensate jambs and install the sill at a 50 slope between the side jambs. for the sloping sill. Install the door with two hinges each. Add Install the doorframe using shims and 10d casing nails. Add 1 x 4 horizontal trim on the front wall, up against the doorsill; shims or cedar shingles along the length of the sill to provide then trim around both sides of the doorframe. Prime and paint support underneath . The front edge of the frame should be as desired. flush with the face of the siding. Add 1 x 2 stops at the frame sides and top, ’(.” from the front edges.
Sf!ed Projects • 153I Simple Storage Shed T he name of this practical outbuilding says it a ll. It’s an easy-to-bui ld, sturdy, 8 x 10-ft. shed with plenty of storage space. ,Vith no \vindows it also offers good and provides a custom look that you can’t get with kit buildings. Ins ide t he shed, YOLI ca n max imize storClge space security. The clean, symmetricu ] in te ri or a nd cent rally by bu ild ing an attic: Insta ll full-length 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 loca ted double doors make for easy access to your stuff. joists (whic h a lso serve as rafter ties) a nd cover t hem T he .va lls are ready to be lined .vith util ity shelves, \vit h Y2 1! ply\vood. Include one or more fra med- in and you can qu ickly add a ramp to simp lify parking t he access openings t hat you ca n easily reach w ith a lawnmowcr, w heelba rrow, and other ya rd equipment. step ladder. T h is type of sto rage space is ideal for This shed is indeed bas ic, but it’s also a nicely se ldom -used househo ld items- like winter clothing proportioned bu il ding wit h arc hi tecturally appropriate and holiday decorations- that you can stow in covered fe<:ltures l ike overhanging eaves and just enough trim plastiC bi ns. to give it a qua lity, hand- built appear<:lllce. \Vithout The simpl icity a nd eco no my of th is shed des ign getti ng too feln ey- re me m ber, s impl icity is the ce n tral also make it a great cho ice for cab ins, vacation homes, des ign idea- yo u might co nsider fi ni shi ng the exte rior and oth er re mote locations. A heavy-duty hasp latch walls a nd roof of the shed wit h t he same materials and padlock on the door, along with hea d and foot used on you r house. T h is casy modification visua ll y slide bolts inside, wi ll provide t he security you need integrates t he shed \A/ith t he rest of t he prope rty whe n you’ re away for long pe ri ods.
154 • T H E COM PL ETE GUIDE TO CONT EM PORA IW SHEDS
Sf!ed Projects • 155
Cutting List
Description Quantity/ Size Material Description Quantity/Size Material
Foundation Roofing
Droinage malerial 1.25 (u. yd. Compoctoble gravel Sheathing 5 sheets@4x8' 1/2" exterior-grade
Skids 2@10' 4 x 6 pressure-treated (& door header spocer) plywood roof sheathing
landscape ti mbers 151 building paper I roll
Floor Shingles 1%squares Asphalt shingles-
Rim joists 2@10' 2 x 8 pressure-treated, 250# per sq. min.
rated for ground contoct Drip edge 45 lineor ft. Metal drip edge
Joist 9@8' 2 x 8 pressurHreoted Door
Floor sheathing 3sheets@4x8' lh- tongue-g-groove Frames 7@8' 2 x 4 pressure-treated
"t.-grade plywood Panels I sheet@4x8' Vn"ture I-II
Wall Framing plywood siding
Bottom plates 2@ 10', 2 @8' 2x 4 Stops & overlap trim 4@B' I x 2 pressure-treated
Top plates 4@ 10', 4 @8' 2x 4 Fasteners & Hardware
Studs 36@8' 2x 4 16d galvanized common noils 4 Ibs_
Door header I@IO' 2x 6 16d (ommon nails 10 Ibs.
Roof Framing I Od common nails 2 lb.
Rafters 6@12' 2x 6 8d galvanized common nails 3 Ibs_
Rafter blocking 2@10' 2x 6 8d box nails 3 Ibs_
Ridge boord I@IO' I x8 8d galvanized siding or finish nails 9 Ibs_
Collor ties 2@12' 2x 4 I" galvanized roofing nails 5 Ibs_
Exterior Finishes Door hinges with screws 6 @ 3'1'- Galvanized metal hinges
Siding II sheet @ 4 x B' '/," Texture I-II Door handle
plywood siding Door lock (optional)
Fascia 4@12' Ix8 Door head bolt
Corner him 8@8' Ix2 Door foot bolt
Goble wall trim 2@8' Ix4 Construction adhesive
Siding flashing 16 lineor ft_ Metoll-flashing156 T H E COM PL ETE CUJrJE TO CONTEMPORARY SHEDS
ELEVATION
Aspholt shinglesIx 8 1 x 8 Foscio Goble x 6 Siocking
1 x4Trim
Ix 2 ~~i~~~~~~~~~~ff~~~llf~~~4 x 8 Top plotes
(orner i
2x 8 Sose frome ------''''<:
2 Doors, eoch
6',8" high x 2',0" wide,
2 x 4 frome with Tl -ll
treoted plywood siding
48 1;1" x SO yt
Door R.O.
4x 61kid
Si!cd Projects 157
FRAMING ELEVATION
Ix8
Ridge board
~~~~------ 2 x 4
Collar lies
2x 6
R,her 2'·0' 0.(.
2x 4
Goble studs
2· 2x 4
Rofter supporh
2x 4 Ply."d
S.ud .,11
2x 8 4x 6Skid
Bose fro me
SIDE FRAMING
2x 4
(,II, r lies
g "~~~ -----~
Top of woll
V
2x 4
S.ud
-""'-
"d ~
Ply.
4x 6
Skid, ----------
d i=
],·11'
I158 T i lE COMPLETE CU m E TO CONT EM POR AIW SHEDS
FLOOR FRAMING
r-- r-- 2x 8
Rim joist
r--- 2x 8
Joist’- -;- ;…
4 x 6 Skid
f-- LL
1/
2x 8
Rim joist
9',11"REAR FRAMING FRONT FRAMING 2x 4
~'.' Top plol Top plol
2x 4
Siud 51 Yt" Header ~: xX 6 Header
/2 4
t II II II
't Siud
~ ;;:
;... -;...
~
~
9',11" ~ T·ll Y." 4' -1ft" R.O. 1~ 2'-11 Y4·
~ 2x
, 4
Soltorn
plale
9',11"
"" " 2x 4
Bollom
plate
Shed Projects 159
ROOF PLAN
" I 1 1 1 1
"- 1 1 1 1 1
1 1 1 1
,,\1 1 1 1 1
,,\ 1 1 1 1
1 1 Aspholl shingles
" 1
"\ 1 1 1
'\I 1 1 1
1 1 1
vi 1 1 1
~ 1 1
'( 1 1 --
"- 1 1
" 1
1
2x4
"\ 1 (ollar lies
"-
"t- 2x6
'f Rafters 2"O.L
FLOOR PLAN
2x 4
l;\~
Studs 16" O.c.
/> 2x8
/ = Floor joists 16" O.c.
II ,\ ~
- ~ A_ 1
;;
tv t'\ f(\\
b
;"
-"-
1IV 10 \ If\\
V
¥t Plywood
{/~
2'·1l !4"
~ 4'·lh" 2'·Il W
9' -II" (10'0" @ sheathing)160 T H E CO~ tPL E T E CU tD E TO CO NT EM PO RARY SH ED S
RAFTER TEMPLATE
,~
11
6", I’ I ’~~ 1”~~~~~~f~ 4_~” I _____ __ _________ 2x_6 ______________ ~;1
DOOR DETAIL
24"
2 x 4 Frame
Hinge
/'
V VI" Plywoodsiding
2 x 4 (ross brc(e
(angle down to
hinge side)
Reor View Front View
S i!cd Projects 161
I How to Build the Simple Storage Shed
Prepare the foundation site with a 4" layer of compacted Cut two 2 x 8 rim joists at 119" . Cut nine 2 x 3 joists at 92" .
gravel where the skids will be located . Cut the two 4 x 6 timber Assemble the floor frame following the FLOOR FRAMING (page
skids at 119". Position the skids on the gravel beds so their 159), then set it on the skids and measure the diagonals to
outside edges are 95" apart, making sure they are level make sure the frame IS square. Fasten the jOists to the skids
and parallel. with 16d galvanized common nails.
Attach tongue-and-groove plywood flooring to the floor Frame the rear wall: Cut one 2 x 4 bottom plate and one top
frame, starting at the left front corner of the shed. Begin the plate at 119". Cut ten 2 x 4 studs at 92%" . Assemble the wall
second row of plywood with a full sheet in the right rear corner uSing 16" on-center spacing, as shown in the REAR FRAMING
to stagger end jOints. Make sure the tongues are fully seated in (page 159). Raise the wall and fasten it flush to the rear edge
the mating grooves. Fasten the sheathing With 3d galvanized of the floor, then brace the wall in position with 2 x 4 braces.
common nails.162 • T H E COM PLETE GUID E TO CONTEM PORA IW SH ED S
Build the side walls following the SIDE FRAMING (page 158). Frame the front wall following the FRONT FRAMING (page The two side walls are identical. Each has a bottom and top 159): Cut two plates at 119”, cut eight studs at 92%”, and cut plate at 88” and seven studs at 92%”. Assemble each wall, then two jack studs at 79”. Install the 2 x 6 built-up header (add a install it and brace It in position . layer of Y;’ plywood as a spacer between the 2 x 6s), then add three cripple studs. Raise and fasten the front wall, then install the double top plates along all four walls.
... J M
,
/Cut two 2 x 6 pattern rafters following the RAFTER Cover the shed exterior with y,” siding, starting at the TEMPLATE (page 161). Test-fit the rafters and make any left end of the rear wall. Butt full sheets up against the rafters, necessary adjustments. Use one of the patterns to mark and letting the bottom edges overhang the floor frame by at least cut the remaining 10 rafters. Cut the 1 x 8 ridge board at 1”. Complete th e front wall, and then the side walls, keeping 119”. Mark the rafter layout onto the ridge and the front and the bottom edges even with the sheets on the front and side rear wall plates following the ROOF PLAN (page 160). Note: walls. Add Z-flashing, and continue the siding to th e tops of the Before installing the ralters on the long sides of the shed (door end rafters. face and wall parallel to door), first install siding. The rafters overhang the siding on the long sides, therefore the siding (at least on those sides) needs to be in place before the ralters are installed.
(continued)
Sf!ed Projects • 163
Install the rafters and ridge board . Cut four 2 x 4 collar Mark the gable wall stud layout onto the Sidewall top
ties at 64", mitering the ends at 33S. Fasten the collar ties plates. Use a level to transfer the marks to the end rafters. Cut
between each set of the four inner rafters, using 10d common each of the 102 x 4 studs to fit, mitering the top ends at 33.5'.
nails. Make sure the ties are level and extend close to but not Install the studs. Note: The center stud on each wall is located
above the top edges of the rafters. Note: Do not install collar to the rear side of the ridge board. If desired, frame in the attic
ties if you're building an attic floor. floor at this time (see Adding an Attic, below).
Adding an Attic ~
TO bUild an attic floor for storage, cut six 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 floor Frame access openings with two header joists
joists at 95" (use 2 x 6s if you plan to store heavy items in the spanning neighboring floor joists (photo B). For heavier
attic). If necessary, clip the top corners of the joists so they storage, double up the floor joists on either side of the
won't extend above the tops of the rafters. Fasten the jOists opening, then use doubled headers to frame the opening.
to the rafters and wall plates with 10d common nails (photo Join doubled members with pails of 10d common nails
A). At the end rafters, Install 2" blocking against the rafters, every 16" . Cover the joists with 'Ii' plywood fastened with
then attach the joists to the blocking and gable wall studs. 3d nails to complete the attic floor.164 • T H E COM PLETE GUID E TO CONTEM PORA IW SH EDS
Enclose the rafter bays over the walls with 2 x 6 blocking. Apply ‘Ii’ roof sheathing, starting at the bottom corner of Bevel the top edge of the blocking at 33S so it will be flush either roof plane. The sheathing should be flush with the tops of with the rafters. Cut the blocks to fit snugly between pairs of the fascia boards. Add the metal drip edge, building paper, and rafters and install them. Install 1 x 8 fascia boards at the ends asphalt shingle roofing following the steps on pages 55 to 57. of the rafters along the eaves, and over the siding on the gable ends. Keep the fascia W’ above the tops of the rafters.
construct the two doors from 2 x 4 bracing and ’/,” siding, Trim the corners of the shed with 1 x 2s. Also add a piece as shown In the DOOR DETAIL (page 161). The doors are of 1 x 2 trim on one of the doors to cover the gap between the identical. Each measures 48W’ x 80’li’ . Mortise the butt hinges doors. Install 1 x 4 trim horizontally to cover the Z-flashing at into the door brace and wall frame, and install the doors leaving the side walls. Install door locks and hardware as desired. a ‘f,” gap between the doors and along the top and bottom.
Sf!ed Projects • 165I Gothic Playhouse P layhouses are all about stirring th e im agination . Loaded with fan cy Ameri ca n Goth ic detail s, this charm ing little hOllse makes a spec ial play horne for As an a ltern ati ve, you can se t the pl ay house on 4 X 6 timber skids . Anot he r c ustom variat ion yo u mi gh t cons ider is in the styling of the ve rge boards (the kid s an d an attractive backyard feat ure for adults. gingerbread gab le trim ) . In stea d of using th e provided I n addition to its arc hitec tural c haracter (see Gothic patte rn , you ca n creClte a curdboard template of yo ur Style , helmv), w hat makes thi s a grea t playhouse own des ign. A rc hitec tural plCl n and pattern books des ign is its size- the e nc losed house measu res fro m th e Got hic period a re full of in spiration for 5 X 7Y, ft. an d includes a 5-ft .-tall door and plenty decora ti ve ideas . of headroom ins ide. T his mea ns your ki ds will likely “outgrow” th e playhouse before they get too big for it. A nd you ca n ahvays give the hOll se a second li fe as a storage she d. At th e front of the hOllse is a 30” -deep porch co mple te “l ith rea l decking boards an d a nicely decorated railing. Each side ,va il fea tures a w ind ow an d flowe r box, and the “foundation” has the look of stone crea ted by wood blocks applied to th e floor fra ming. A ll of these fea ture s are optional, but eac h one adds to th e charm of thi s we ll-appointed playhouse. As shown here, the floor of th e playhouse is ancho red to fou r 4 X 4 posts buri ed in th e ground .
Gothic Style ~
The architectural style known as American Gothic
(also called Gothic ReVival and Carpenter Gothic)
dates back to the 1830s and essentially marks
the beginning of the Victorian period in American
home design . Adapted from a similar movement in
England, Gothic style was inspired by the ornately
decorated stone cathedrals found throughout
Europe. The style qUickly evolved in America
as thrifty carpenters learned to re-create and
reinterpret the original decorative motifs using wood
instead of stone.
American Gothic's most characteristic feature
is the steeply pitched roof with fancy scroll-cut
barge boards, or verge boards, which gave the style
its popular nickname, "gingerbread." Other typical
features found on Gothic homes (and the Gothic
Playhouse) Include board-and-batten siding, doors
and windows shaped with Gothic arches, and spires
or finials adorning roof peaks.166 • T H E COM PL ETE GUID E TO CONTEM PORA IW SHE D S
Sf!ed Projects • 167
Cutting List
Description Quantity/ Size Material Description Quantity/Size Material
Foundation/ Floor Bolls 1 @ 3 " ~io. Wooden sphere,
Droinage material I cu. yd . Compoctible grovel pressure-treated
4 @ field meosure Roofing
Foundation posts 4 x 4 pressure-treated
lundscope timbers Sheothing 4 sheets@4xB' W' exlerior-grode plywood
Concrete Field meosure 3,000 psi concrete roof sheothing
Rim joists 3@10', I @B' 2 x 12 pressure-trea ted, 11# building po per I roll
roted for ground con toct Orip edge 40 lineor ft. Metol drip edge
Floor jOists I @IO', 1@B' 1 x 6 pressure-treoted Shingles 1 squore Aspholt shingles - 110#
Box sills (rim joists) 1@11' 2 x 4 pressure-treated per sq. min.
Floor sheothing 1 sheets @ 4 x B' 'I," ext.-grode plywood Fasteners & Hardware
Porch decking I@IO' 1 x 6 pressure-treated decking 16d golvanized 3V, lbs_
(ommon noils
Foundation uslonesu 7@10' 'I, x 6" treoted decking
w/rodius edge (no.), 16d common noils I Ibs.
roted for ground con toet 10d common noils V, lb.
Framing Ifor double top plotes)
Woll froming & roilings 19@ 11' 1x 4 10d golvanized finish/ 4 Ibs.
((Ising nails
Rafters & spacers 7@ 11' 1x 4
Bd golvanized I lb.
Ridge boord I @B' Ix6 (ommon nails
Collor ties I@IO' Ix4 Bd box noils 1lbs.
Exterior Finishes Bd golvanized siding noils Bibs.
Siding, window boxes 16@ 10' I x Bpressure-treoted 1" galvanized roofing nails 3 Ibs.
& door trim or cedor
2" deck screws I lb.
Battens & trim 30@B' 1 x 2 pressure-treated (for porch decking)
or cedar
6d golvanized finish noils 1lbs.
Door ponel, verge boords & 10@10' 1 x 6 pressure-treated
3W' galvanized 24 screws
fascia or cedar
waod screws
Door broces, trim 1@10' 1 x 4 pressure-treated
11// galvanized 12 screws
&. roiling trim or cedar
wood screws
Roiling bolusters 4@B' 2 x 2 pressure-treated
Dowel screws (for spire) 3 screws Galvanized dowel screws
or cedar
log screws w/wushers 1@6" W' galvanized log screws
Window stops 1@B' ¥s" pressure-treated or cedar
quarter-round molding Door hinges w/screws 3 Corrosion-resistant hinges
Window glozing (optionol) 4@10x9V," V," plustic glozing Door hundle/lotch
Spire Exterior wood glue
Post I@B' 4 x 4 pressure-treated Cleor exterior coulk (for
- - optional window pones)
Trim I @4' 1 x 2 pressure-treated
1@4' Construction adhesive
Molding Cop molding,
pressure-trea ted168 T H E COMPLETE CU JrJ E TO CONTEM PORARY SHEDS
SECTION
+
.,
______1 x84Y,
6 Ridge
------+-
2 x 4 Spacer
2Y/ Both ends
30"1Picture
1
V? Plywood
15# Roofing felt
J:':~~~~;M§~~~f~~~~~~~~~~:=
~~~~~nff~-- I X 6 sh ingles
Green
I lJ.l----;::-- 1 x 8 Boards with
1 x 2 Bollens
CuI robbet
on bock side
for optional
plastic window pones
Y4 x 6" Rod. edge
2 x 6 Joists decking blocks
.16" O.C
I I 4 - 4 x 4s1x 6 : I ; - Sel in (oncrete decking I : . belowfroslline on porch 2 x 12 End joist Rim joisls, trealed
Si!cd Projects 169
FLOOR PLAN
110'
:
t 30"
~ 2 x 2 Railing posls Xl
=
28"
[Xl
80"
[Xl
28"
~
p-
I
I
I
I J 24" R.O.
~
~
I
~ I
~~ :8
fg:
I
I I
1 x 6 Oe(kin g----,
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
-
a
~
~
~
overhangs fro me I I
by 1114" '0 (O Ver I I
2 x 4 Ilud,20" 0.(,- ~
i~
foundation HSlones ~ ~
8
I
I
I
I "'-'" 24" R.O.
'I 'r
:~ ~
"X Is<
~
Xl [Xl [Xl ~
VERGE BOARD TEMPLATE DECK RAILING DETAIL SPIRE DETAIL
Nole 4x 4
detail Topered lo ~'
below on 0114 sides
1- - 1-
F- Scrap
3" Ball
2x 4
\ Ix 2
4x 4Posi
!.,I
~=;I- Molding
,, ,,
,,
,
i-
,,
l- , ,, ,,
I/ 3~~,"k----=±::iT}'c-J~I~~~ ,, , ,,
Verge 'l~" R.
board ICullrom 1 x 4)
1 Square = 1"
{(ulfrom I x 61170 T H E COM PLET E CUIt) E TO CO NTEM PORA RY SH EDS
DOOR DETAIL DOOR ARCH TEMPLATETop View 1 x 1 Slops _ _ ~ 4 frome /i”---, II ! Door ‘9’ 1 x 2 Trim I 1/,1 4” Sq. cutout / !
3" Sq. cutout
/I
/ I
Door arch trim
hullrom 1x 8)
II1
I
r-- I" Grid
I
I
Door arch cui
(\4" in from
Irimculj
1
-
I
\\
\\
\1
\ ~\
~
~
1\-+,1,— 11” —’+-f
1
I ~,
1 x 2 Trim
4- 1 x 8son2 x 4frome \ j
BOARD & BATTEN DETAIL
;:--- W Gop
-,'--8d Gol..
(Osing/siding
,
t------—-[=:====:::::==:;:::=1-
’” I
_
,
1
IOd Gol •.
(Osing/finish
noil
I 1 ”’”
nOils ----1=====T==d=;::::±===I----=t— Blocking/plate
l 4 x
1 x8Siding - - - - - - - - - . /
1 t ~‘-------1 x 8Siding
wY ~ 1,1” 1x2Bollen
(centered over siding joint)
Si!cd Projects 17 1
FRONT FRAMING
30"
1 + - ' , - - - - - 1 x 6 Ridge boord
-----',-----"<--- 1 x 4 Collar lie
---''<--- 2 x Hofter
2 x 4 (ross piece
2x4Broce
2 x Block
22'h" R.O.
2x 4Block
2 x 4 Door Studs 2 x 4 Hollom Plate
I·
60" Side~.172 T H E CO~ IP LE T E CU ID E TO CONTEM PORA RY SH ED S
FLOOR FRAMING PLAN
110·l
”
I lA” Plywood floor sheathing (indicoted with dolled lines)
!-
2 x 6 POrth joist (even spocing )
~
j/ ’\ //
/
/
JS
\ /
\ /
- 2 x 12 End ioisl - 2 x l2
\ / '"" A
/
/
Hooder l /
ioisl /
/
\
\
\
/ ""
/
/ \ /1
""
/ \ /
"
"~
\ /
~ \ // \ 2X6 JOist!
J 4 x 4 Foundahon post
~-
80·
SIDE FRAMING
(enler line on ralter
84W /
/
L 1 II
1~6
Ridge
board r- 2 x 4 Rafter
2 x 4 Top plates
r---
-,
.,;
~
~ • R.O.
i
80·
Si!cd Projects 173
RAFTER TEMPLATE
12
20 V
11 Roolslope
'k~/"\-=--=--=----=----=--_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-- - - - - 7-='- - - r-~
WINDOW BOX DETAIL
8"
6"
-'k_J=======l~r;;:::::::::;;;;. (ullrom 1 x 8's
6"174 T H E CO~ IP LETE CUIDE TO CONTEM PORARY SH EDS
I How to Build the Gothic Playhouse
Set up perpendicular mason’s lines and batter boards After the concrete dries (overnight) add compactable gravel to plot out the excavation area and the post hole locations, and tamp It down so it is 4” thick and flat. Cut two 2 x 12 rim as shown in FLOOR FRAMING PLAN (page 173). Excavate and jOists for the floor frame, two 2 x 12 end joists and one header grade the construction area, preparing for a 4”-thick gravel JOISt. Cut four 2 x 6 Joists at 57” and two porch Joists at 27%”. base. Dig 12”-dia. holes to a depth below the frost line, plus 4”. Assemble the floor frame with 16d galvanized common nails Add 4” of gravel to each hole. Set the posts in concrete so they following FLOOR FRAMING PLAN. extend about 10” above the ground.
Make sure the frame is square and level (prop it up Cover the interior floor with plywood, starting at the rear temporarily), and then fasten it to the posts with 16d end. Trim the second piece so it covers % of the header JOIst. galvanized common nails. Install the 1 x 6 porch decking starting at the front edge and leaving a %” gap between boards. Extend the porch decking 1Yo” beyond the front and sides of the floor frame.
(continued)
Sf!ed Projects • 175
Frame the side walls as shown in the SIDE FRAMING Build the rear wall. Raise the side and rear wails, and fasten
(page 173) and FLOOR PLAN (page 170). Each wall has four them to each other and to the floor frame. Add double top
2 x 4 studs at 48%", a top and bottom plate at 80", and a 2 x plates. Both sidewall top plates should stop flush with the end
4 window header and sill at 24". Install the horizontal 2 x 4 stud at the front of the wall.
blocking, spaced evenly between the plates. Install only one
top plate per wall at this time.
TO frame the front wall, cut two treated bottom plates at Cut one set of 2 x 4 pattern rafters following the RAFTER
15%", two end studs at 51Yi' and two door studs at 59" . Cut a TEMPLATE (page 174). Test-fit the rafters and make any
2 x 4 crosspiece and two braces, mitering the brace ends at necessary adjustments. use one of the pattern rafters to
45°. Cut SIX 2 x 4 blocks at 12%".Assemble the wall as shown mark and cut the remaining eight rafters. Also cut four 2 x 4
in the FRONT FRAMING (page 172). Raise the front wall and spacers- these should match the rafters but have no blJd's-
fasten it to the floor and sidewall frames. mouth cuts.176 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORAIW SHEDS
Cut the ridge board to size and mark the rafter layout Install the 1 x 8 siding boards so they overlap the floor following the SIDE FRAMING, and then screw the rafters to the frame by 1” at the bottom and extend to the tops of the side ridge. Cut five 1 x 4 collar ties, mltellng the ends at 31°. Fasten walls, and to the tops of the rafters on the front and rear walls. the collar ties across each set of rafters so the ends of the ties Gap the boards ‘Ii’, and fasten them to the framing with pairs are fl ush with the rafter edges. Fasten the 2 x 4 crosspiece of 8d galvanized casing nails or siding nails. Install the four above the door to the two end rafters. Install remaining cross- 2 x 4 spacers on top of the siding at the front and rear so they pieces as In the FRONT/REAR FRAMING. match the rafter placement.
Cut the arched sections of door trim from 1 x 8 lumber, Build the 1 x 2 window frames to fit snugly inside the following the arch template (page 171). Install the arched trimmed openings. Assemble the parts with exterior wood pieces and straight 1 x 2 side pieces flush with the inside of glue and galvanized finish nails. If desired, cut a Yo” rabbet in the door opening. Wrap the window openings with lipped 1 x the back side and Install plastic windowpanes with silicone 6 boards, and then frame the outsides of the openings with 1 caulk. Secure the window frames in the openings with ‘1.” x 2 tllm. lnstall a 1 x 2 batten over each siding Joint as shown quarter-round molding. Construct the window boxes as shown in step 10. in the WINDOW BOX DETAIL (page 174). Install the boxes below the windows with 1%” screws.
(continued)
Sf!ed Projects • 177
TO build the spire, start by drawing a line around a 4 x 4 TO cut the verge boards, enlarge the VERGE BOARD
post, 9" from one end . Draw cutting lines to taper each side TEMPLATE (page 170) on a photocopier so the squares
down to W', as shown in the SPIRE DETAIL (page 170). Taper measure 1". Draw the pattern on a 1 x 6. Cut the board with
the end with a circular saw or handsaw, and then cut off the a Jigsaw Test-fit the board and adjust as needed. Use the
point at the 9" mark. Cu t the post at 43". Add 1 x 2 trim and cut board as a pattern to mark and cut the remaining verge
cap molding as shown in the detail, mitering the ends at the boards. Install the boards over the front and rear fascia, then
corners. Drill centered pilot holes into the post, balls, and paint, add picture molding along the top edges.
and join the parts with dowel screws.
Add a 1 x 2 block under the front end of the ridge board. cut the 1 x 6 eave fascia to fit between the verge boards,
Center the spire at the roof peak, drill pilot holes, and anchor and install it so it will be flush with the top of the roof
the post with 6" lag screws. Cut and install the 1 x 6 front sheathing. Cut and install the roof sheathing. Add bUilding
fascia to run from the spire to the rafter ends, keeping the paper, rnetal drip edge, and asphalt shingles, following the
fascia Y/ above the tops of the rafters. Install the rear fascia steps on page 56.
so it covers the ridge board. Cut and Install two 1 x 4 brackets
to fit between the spire post and front fascia, as shown In the
SPIRE DETAIL.178 • T H E COM PLETE GUID E TO CONTEM PORA IW SH ED S
Mark the deck post locations 1%” in from the ends and Assemble the railing sections following the DECK RAILING front edge of the porch decking, as shown in the FLOOR PLAN. DETAIL. Each section has a 2 x 4 top and bottom rail, two Cut four 4 x 4 railing posts at 30”. Bevel the top edges of the 1 x 2 nailers, and 2 x 2 balusters spaced so the edges of the posts at 45°, as shown in DECK RAILING DETAIL (page 170). balusters are no more than 4” apart. You can build the sections Fasten the posts to the decking and floor frame With 3y,” completely and then fasten them to the posts and front wall, or screws. Cut six 2 x 4 treated blocks at 3y,”. Fasten these to the you can construct them in place starting with the rails. Cut the bottoms of the posts, on the sides that will receive the railings. shaped trim boards from 1 x 4 lumber, using a Jigsaw. Notch the rails to fit around the house battens as needed.
construct the door with 1 x 6 boards fastened to 2 x 4 Make the foundation “stones” by cutting 116 6”-lengths of Z-bracing, as shown in the DOOR DETAIL. Fasten the boards % x 6 deck boards (the pieces in the top row must be ripped to the bracing with glue and 6d finish nails. Cut the square down 1”). Round over the cut edges of all pieces with a router. notches and the top of the door with a jigsaw. Add the 2 x 2 Attach the top row of stones uSing construction adhesive and brace as shown . Install the door with two hinges, leaving a %” 6d galvanized finish nails. Install the bottom row, starting with a gap all around. Add a knob or latch as desired. half-piece to create a staggered joint pattern. If deSired, finish the playhouse interior with plywood or tongue-and-groove siding.
Sf!ed Projects • 179I Timber-frame Shed T imber-frami ng is a trad itional style of building that uses a s impl e framework of heavy ti m ber posts a nd beams con nec ted vvith ha nd-carved joint s. From th e The materia ls fo r this project we re ca refu ll y c hose n to e nhan ce th e traditional styling. T he 1 x 8 tongue-and-groove s idi ng an d a ll exteri o r trim boards olltside, a timbe r-frame building looks like a standard a re made fro m rough-sawn cedar, giving the shed a sti ck- frame st ru ct ure, but o n t he inside, t he sto ut, nat ural, ru stic qua lity. T he door is ha nd-b u ilt from ro ugh-saw n framin g members evo ke the look and feel ro ugh ceda r boards an d incl ud es ex posed Z-bracing, of an 18th-century wo rkshop. T h is 8 X IO-ft . shed has a classic outbui ld ing detail. As shown herc, the roof the sa me basic design u sed in tradi tion al timber- frame frame is made with sta ndard 2 X 4s, but if you’re willing structures but wit h joi nts that are easy to make. to pay a little more to improve t he appearance, you can In addition to the [Taming, some notabJe featu res use rough-cut 2 x 4s or 4 X 4s fo r the roof frami ng. of this shed Clre its simpli city and proportions. It’s a Anot he r option to cons ider is traditi onal spaced ni cely symmetrical building with full-height vvalls and sheath ing instead o f p lywood for th e roof deck. an Clttractively steep-p itched roof, somethi ng you seldom Spaced sheathin g cons ists of I X 4 boards na iled fi nd on ma nufactured kit sheds. The clean styling gives pe rpe n d icular to the roof fra me, with a I Y2” ga p it a traditional, ru stic look, but also makes the shed ideal be twee n boa rds . The roof shin gles a re nailed direc tl y for adding c ustom deta ils. Insta ll a skyli ght or \vindows to to the shea thing without building pape r in between, bri ghte n the interior, or perhaps c ut a c rescent moon in to creat ing a n attractive ceiling of exposed board s and the door in the style of o ld-fashioned backyard privies. shingles ins ide th e s hed.
180 • T H E COM PL ETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PO RA IW SHEDS
Sf!ed Projects • 181
Cutting List
Description Quantity/Size Material Description Quantity/ Size Material
Foundation Sollit vents (optional) 4@4xI2" Louver with bug screen
Drainage malerial I cu. yard Compactible grovel Flashing (door I 4 linear ft. Galvanized - 18 gouge
Skids 3@10' 6 x 6 treated timbers Roofing
Floor Framing Roof sheathing 6 sheets@4x8' 'I, ex t.·grode plywood
Rim joists 2@ 10' 2 x 6 pressure-treated Cedar shingles 1.7 squares
Joist 9@8' 2 x 6 pressure·treoted 15# bUilding paper 140 sq. ft.
Joist clip angles 18 3 x 3 x 3" x 18·gouge Roof vents (op tional I 2 units
galvanized Door
Floor sheathing 3 sheets@4x8' Y. tongue-&-groove Frome 2 @7' 'I. x 4'1." (octuol) S4S cedar
ext.·grode plywood 1@4'
Wall Framing Stops 2@7' I x 2 S4S cedar
Posts 6@8' 4 x 4 rough-sown cedor 1@4'
Window pasts 2@4' 4 x 4 rough-sown cedm Panel material 7 @7' I x 6 T&G V·joint
Girts 2@10' 4 x 4 rough-sown cedor rough -sown cedar
2@8' l·broce I @8'to 1 x 6 rough-sown cedar
Beams 2@ 10' 4 x 6 rough-sown cedar 2@8'
2@8' Strop hinges
Braces 8@2' 4 x 4 rough-sown cedm Trim S@7' 1 x 3 rough-sown cedar
Post bases 6, with nails Simpson 8C40 Flashing 42" metal flashing
Post-beam connectors 8 pieces, with nails Simpson LCE Fasteners
L-connectors 4, with nails Simpson A34 60d common nails 16 nails
Additional posts 6@8' 4 x 4 rough·sown cedor 20d cammon nails 32 nails
Roof Framing 16d galvanized cammon nails 3'I, lbs.
Rafters 12@ 7' 2x 4 I Od cammon nails I lb.
Collor ties 2@10' 2x 4 10d galvanized casing nails '1, lb.
Ridge boord I @IO' 2x 6 8d galvanized box nails I'j, Ibs.
Metal anchors - rafters 8, with nails Simpson HI 8d galvanized finish nails 7 Ibs.
Goble·end blocking 4@ 7' 2x 2 8d box nails 'I. lb.
Exterior Finishes 6d galvanized finish nails 40 noils
Siding 2@ 14' I x 8 V·joint 3d golvanized finish noils 50 noils
8@ 12' rough-sown cedor 1W' joist hanger nails 72 nails
10@ 10'
29@ 9' 2W' deck screws 2S screws
Cornertrim 8@9' I x 4 rough·sown cedor 1W' wood screws 50 screws
4@7' 1 x 6 rough-sown cedar 1Je- galvanized rooling nails 2 Ibs.
Fascia
2@ 12' Yo" x 6" log screws, wlwoshers 16 screws
Fascia trim 4@7' 1 x 2 rOlJgh-sown cedar '/," x 6" log screws, wlwoshers
2@ 12' Construction adhesive 4 tubes
Subfoscio 2@ 12' I x 4 pine Note : Additional posts tIloy be added as a safety
Plywood soffit I sheet4x8' Yo" cedor or fir plywood precaution to prevent eave beam defiectio'l'l.182 T H E COMPLETE CU JrJ E TO CONTEM PORARY SHEDS
FRONT FRAMING ELEVATION LEFT SIDE FRAMING ELEVATION2 x 6 Ridge 2 x 4 (ollar lie 2 x 4 Rofter 12 Melal connector 24” 0.(.-----,—,.”’) ’; :sJ 12 2 x 8 Ikylighl 4 x 6 Beam 2x 6R idge frome·‘----T:;:L====:::;;£«(
- D
4 x 4Post 2x 4R alter
4 x 4 Brace
24"0.( .- ......------'
4 x 4 Header 2 x 4C ollorlie ~
Door notch 10 post
4x68 eom
4 x 4 Girl, y ~
notched 10 posl 4x 4P
OSI./
4x48 roce
3'.2"
4x 46 irt,
notched 10 p
Rough
opening
y." Ext. ply.
~
2 X 6TreOled
floor joist
16" 0.(.
6 x 6 Treated
timber skid~ Oplionol
REAR FRAMING ELEVATION RIGHT SIDE FRAMING ELEVATION
2x 6Ridge
2x4Roiter
24" 0.(.
12 2 x 8 Ikylighl 2x 6R idge
I2V;; frome-
2x 4R alter
---
2 x 4 Collar lie 24" 0.(
4 x 6 Beam 2 x 4C ollorlie -
4 x 4 Broce
4x68 eom
4x4Posi
4x 48 roce - - - - V Window
rough openinf ~ ~
4 x 4 Girl, "r
;.,
notched to post 4x 4Posl 1'·2"’”’ 00 4x 46 irf, notched 10 p .,.’” Post bose (onneelor / Posl bose !Onneelor @ eoch post @ each posl ________
Yo Exl. ply.
2 x 6 Treated
floor joist 16" O.c
6 x 6 Treated~ Oplionol limber skid ·Oplionol
Si!cd Projects 183
BUILDING SECTION RAFTER TEMPLATE
2 x 6 Ridge
y? N Plywood sheathing
2 x 4 Roher 24" O.C
2 x 4 Collor lie
4 x 6 Timber holl·
~ 12
lap joint 01 (orner
$
'G
1x 2Trim ~~::::;::=:========~).-~:t-r
l x 6Fosdo S" .,.'" 12
Roof slope
4 x bBeom
Rough
'"'
4 x 4PosI openin
4 x 4 Girl,
'""" 2 x 4 Rofter
.'"
r
notched into
(orner posts
Ix8 2Y
T&6 siding
'
%" Exl. ply.
2 x 6 Treated
floor joisl16"O.L
6 x 6 Treated
limber skid
FLOOR FRAMING PLAN FLOOR PLAN
6x 6 ROOf'ines
Treated
limber skid "'-~i2~~~::~~~~::::';;;~~I---' __ r----------------- ----l--4__ L shown dashed
~~
2x 6
Treated
flooriois~ 4 x 4PosI
16" O.C "
1l=i=}====i=l====={H
2x6 ~
Treated ",~g~~~"""""'=FF=======ffl b'= ~
4 x 4 Additional post
rimjoisl -" .::
4x 4Posi S> 4 x 4PosI
'"'
Rough Opening
8
:: J'
1 "
3'·4"
,I, 3'·4"
'
~f~
:
3'·2"
8'·0"
2'·S"
8'·0"
Dimensions 10 outsides of joists
Dimensions 10 outsides of joists184 T H E COM PL ET E CU Jrl E TO CO NTEM PORA RY SH EDS
FRONT ELEVATION LEFT SIDE ELEVATION
Skylighl'
Asphalt shingles Asphal I
shingles -I I ,II II 1111 I
II II II I II II
1 x 2 Trim I I I
Skylig hi
1 x 6 Fosdo
II
I x 2 Trim
~--:;:--~-~-§-~-~-i-rrr11t-- Flashing
Ii-
I x 6 Fascia /
Ix 8
+1+-- I x 8 T&G siding T&6 siding -
[\c"i-t++-++I+-- Homemade door I x 4 Trim ~
1+--- 1 x 4 Trim 6x 6 Treated
limber skid -
~ l x 3Trim
6 x 6 Treated
limber skid‘Optional “Optional
REAR ELEVATION RIGHT SIDE ELEVATION
Skylighl' Asphall
shingles
Asphalt
shingles
1 x 2Trim
I x 2 Trim
I x 6 Fosda
~ 1 x 6Foscio
Ix8
1&6 sidin g
2x 4M ullion
Homem ode
window -
I x 3 Trim - - - -
-I-
D
Ix 8
T&G sid ing
1+--- 1 x 4 Trim
I x 4 Trim
6x 6Treoled_..::±:r====:::J:t::==’:::::‘:rl~=- 6 x 6 Treated limber 5kid limber sk id
· Optional
Si!cd Projects 185
GABLE OVERHANG DETAIL EAVE DETAIL
%" Plywood %" Plywood sheothing
2 x 4 Roher 24" O.C
Metol anchors, each rolle
1 x 2 Trim l-conneclor,
eoch corner
4 x 6 Beom,
--+-~=F~f-
half-lop joint ot corner
2 x 4 Rafter
Soffit yent - -_ _~
1 x 6 Fascia 1 x 2 Trim
1 x 4 Subloscio
1 x 6 Foscio ----'------"~
1 x 8 T&G siding
1'1" Plywood soffit
4 x 6Beom
1 x 8 T&G siding
4 x 4Posl - - - - - - - - - - - - - - '
DOOR JAMB DETAIL DOOR DETAIL
, - - - - - - - - - - 4 x 4 POll
, - - - - - - 1 x 3 Trim
3' 0"
i-- r Hold bock hom door edge
"-
.\ ",,- "x
L-, t - Strop hinge
\\ "[> 1 x 6 Boards glued
./
/' ond mewed to 1 x 6 ponel
~" 800rd door
w/ 1 x 6 broce \\/
~
:"
0-
c=
1 x 2SIop 1\\ t-- ,
1 x 6T&GV·Jl
'A" *" Frome \\ boords, vertical
' - - - - - - - - - 1 x 3 Trim \'" ----
' - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1 x 8 T&G siding186 T H E COM PLETE CUJrlE TO CO NTEM PORARY SH EDS
I How to Build the Timber-frame Shed
prepare the foundation site with a 4”·deep layer of compacted Cut two 2 x 6 rim joists (120”) and nine joists (93”). and leveled gravel. Cut three 6 x 6 treated timber skids (120”). Assemble the floor frame with galvanized nails, as shown in Place the skids follOWing the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN (page 184). the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN. Check the frame to make sure it is Lay a straight 2 x 4 across the skids and test with a level. square by measuring the diagonals.
Position the floor frame on top of the skids and measure Install the tongue·and·groove plywood floor sheathing, the diagonals to make sure it’s square. Install joist clip angles starting with a full sheet at one corner of the frame. The at each joist along the two outer skids with galvanized nails. flooring should extend all the way to the outside edges of the Toenail each joist to the center skid. floor frame.
(continued)
Sf!ed Projects • 187
To prepare the wall posts, cut six 4 x 4 posts (90'/,"), Mark the door frame posts for notches to receive a girt at
making sure both ends are square. On the four corner posts, 46%" and for the door header at 82"; see the FRONT FRAMING
mark for 3Y,"-long x 1Y/-deep notches (to accept the girts) on ELEVATION (page 183). Remove the waste from the notch areas
the two adjacent inside faces of each post. start the notches with a circular saw and clean up with a broad wood chisel.
46%" from the bottom ends of the posts. Test-fit the notches to make sure the 4 x 4 girts will fit snugly
Position the post bases so the posts will be flush with the cut two 4 x 6 beams at 10 ft. and two at 8 ft. Notch the
outsides of the shed floor. Install the bases with 16d galvanized ends of the beams for half-lap joints: Measure the width and
common nails. The insides of the door posts should be 29" depth of the beams and mark notches equal to the width x
from the floor sides. Brace each post so it is perfectly plumb, % the depth. Orient the notches as shown in the FRAMING
and then fasten it to ItS base uSing the base manufacturer's ELEVATIONS (page 183). Cut the notches with a handsaw, then
recommended fasteners. test-fit the JOints, and make fine adjustments with a chisel.188 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PO RA IW SHEDS
set an 8-ft. beam onto the front wall posts and tack it Reinforce the beam connections with a metal post-beam in place with a 16d nail at each end. Tack the other 8-ft. beam connector on the outside of each corner and on both sides of to the back posts. Then, position the 10 ft. beams on top of the door posts, using the recommended fasteners. Install an the short beam ends, forming the half-lap joints. Measure the L-connector on the inside of the beam-to-beam jOints; see the diagonals of the front wall frame to make sure it’s square, and EAVE DETAIL (page 186). then anchor the beams with two 60d galvanized nails at each corner (drill pilot holes for the nails).
cut eight 4 x 4 corner braces (20”), mitering the ends at Measure between the posts at the notches, and cut the 45°. Install the braces flush with the outsides of the beams 4 x 4 girts to fit. To allow the girts to meet at the corner posts, and corner posts, uSing two 3(,” x 6” lag screws (with washers) make a 1y,” x 1y,” notch at both ends of the rear wall girts and driven through counterbored pilot holes. the outside ends of the front wall girts. Install the girts with construction adhesive and two 20d nails driven through the outsides of the posts (make pilot holes). Cut and install the 4 x 4 door header in the same fashion.
(continued)
Sf!ed Projects • 189
Frame the roof: Cut two pattern rafters using the RAFTER Cut four 2 x 4 collar ties (58"), mitering the tops of the
TEMPlATE (page 184). Test-fit the patterns, and th en cut the ends at 45'. Install the ties y," below the tops of the rafters, as
remaining ten rafters. Cut the 2 x 6 ridge (120"). Install the shown in the FRAMING ELEVATIONS.
rafters and ridge using 24" on-center spacing. Cut four 2 x 2S
to extend from the roof peak to the rafter ends, and install
them flush with the tops of the rafters; see the GABLE
OVERHANG DETAIL (page 186). Add framing connectors at
the rafter-beam connections (except the outer rafters). Note:
if desired, you can add framing for a skylight.
Install the 1 x 8 siding on the front and rear walls so it runs Cover the rafter ends along the eaves with 1 x 4
from the 2 x 2s down to %" below the bottom of the floor subfascia, flush with the tops of the rafters; see the EAVE
frame. Fasten the siding with 8d corrosion-resistant fi nish DETAIL. Install the 1 x 6 fascia and 1 x 2 trim at the gable ends,
nails or siding nails. Don't nail the siding to the door header then along the eaves, mitering the corner joints. Keep the
in this step. fascia and trim Y/ above the rafters so it will be flush with the
roof sheathing.190 • T H E COM PLETE GUID E TO CONTEM PORA IW SHED S
Rip the plywood soffit panels to fit between the wall Deck the roof with ’/,” plywood sheathing, starting at framing and the fascia, and Install them with 3d galvanized box the bottom corners. Cover the sheathing with bUilding paper, nails; see the EAVE DETAIL overhanging the 1 x 2 fascia trim by ‘I.”. Install the cedar shingle roofing or asphalt shingles following the steps on pages 56 to 59. Include roof vents, if desired (they’re a good idea). Finish the roof at the peak with a 1x ridge cap.
·19,
·I '.construct the door frame from ‘I.” x 4%” stock. Cut the Build the door with seven pieces of 1 x 6 siding cu t at head Jamb at 37W’ and the side jambs at 81 ”. Fasten the head 80%” . Fit the boards together, then mark and trim the outer jamb over the ends of the side jambs with 2W’ deck screws. pieces so the door is 36” wide. Install the 1 x 6 Z-bracing Install the frame in the door opening, using shims and 10d with adhesive and 1%” wood screws, as shown in the DOOR galvanized casing nails. Add 1 x 2 stops to the jambs, ‘I.” from DETAIL (page 186). Install flashing over the outside of the door, the outside edges. then add 1 x 3 trim around both sides of the door opening, as shown In the DOOR JAMB DETAIL (page 186). Hang the door with three strap hinges.
Sf!ed Projects • 191I Service Shed T his versatile shelter st ructure is actual ly two projects in one. Us ing the same primary des ign, yo u can build an ope n-s ided nrev,lood shelte r, o r door openings. The adap ted shed won’t offer secu re storage for va lua ble items like tools, but it will prevent dogs, sq uirrels, ra ccoo ns a nd other pests from getting yo u can add doors a nd a shel f and create a secu red into you r trashcans. shed th at’s pe rfect for trash ca ns o r recyc lables. Both As for mate ri als, you ca n save a lot of money by projects have four ve rti cal co rn e r posts, a rectangular building this p roject w ith pressu re-t reated lumber. floor frame decked with 2 X 6s, and gapped side s lats Stain or pai nt the gree ni sh lumber to c ha nge its that provide cross ve nti latio n. The plyvvood , s hcd- co lori ng or leave it bare an d allO\’ it to weat he r to a style roof is covered \vith cedar sh ingles, but yo u ca n s il very gray. If you prefer t he look of ceda r lumber, substitute wit h a ny type of roofing. use it for every thi ng but the she lter’s floor frame and To <Jdapt the service shed for use as a c losed decking. Also, yo u might “/a nt to set the corner posts sto rage shed, yo u can add a center post (mostly to on co nc rete blocks o r sto nes to prevent t he ced<:lr from function as a naile r) and attac h slats to c rea te a rear rotting prematurely du e to gro und co nt<:l ct. wa ll. With two mo re posts in the front , you may define
192 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONT EM PORAIW SHEDS
Seasoning Firewood ~ Proper seasoning, or drying, of firewood takes time. After freshly cut logs are split, the drying process can take SIX to 12 months, given the right conditions. Stacking split wood under a shelter with one or more open sides is Ideal because it protects the wood from rain and snow moisture while letting airflow through the stack to hasten drying. You can test wood for seasoning by its look and feel and by how it burns. The ends of dry logs show cracks and typically have a grayish color, while unseasoned wood still looks freshly cut and may be moist to the touch . Fresher wood also makes a heavy, dull thud when pieces are knocked together When it comes to burning, dry wood lights easily and burns consistently, while wet wood tends to burn out if unattended and often smokes excessively as the Internal moisture turns to steam. If you order split firewood from a supplier and can’t guarantee how well seasoned It IS, have It delivered at least six months before the start of the burning season. This gives the wood plenty of time to dry out. Regarding quantity, a “cord” of neatly stacked split logs measures 128 cubic feet- a stack that’s 4 ft. high, 4 ft. deep, and 8 ft. long. A “half cord” measures 64 cubic feet.
Sf!ed Projects • 193
Cutting List
Pa rt Qua ntity/Size Quantity/ Size Material Part Quantity/ Size Quantity/Size Material
Firewood Shed Garbage Shed Firewood Shed Garbage Shed
Framing Shelf & Doors
Side & end 2@10' 2@ 10' 2x4 Shelf I @ 24'1, x 28 '1." lit ext.-grade
floor supporls pressure-l1eated plywood
Cenler floor supporl I @8' 1@8' 2x4 Shelf cleols 1@6' I x 3 cedor
pressure-treated Door pOllels I sheel@4x8' 3// ext.-grode
Floor boords 3@10' 3@ 10' 2x6 plywood
pressure-neated Snles 3@8' I x 4 cedor
Corner posts 4@8' 4@8' 2 x 4 cedor (wide doors)
Headers 2@8' 2@8' 2 x 4 cedor I@ IO'
(norrow door)
Rafters 1@8' 1@8' 2 x 4 cedor
I @4' 1@4' Hinges 6 Exterior hinges
Rear center post 1@4' 2 x 4 cedar Door handles 3 Ex terior
hoodles
Door posls 1@8' 2 x 4 cedor
Fasteners
Door ledger I @8' 2 x 4 cedar
lit," x 3" log screws 8, wilh washers 10, wilh washers
Slats
Deck screws
End slols 5@8 ' S@8' I x 6 cedar
3W 12 12
Bock slols 5@8' I x 6 cedar
3" 62 62
Roofing
2'11" 36 48
Sheolhing I sheel@4x8' I sheel@4x8' 'I."CDX
plywood 2" SO 62
Roof edging 2@10' 2@ 10' I x 2T 1%" 100 160
151 building paper 37 sq. ft. 37 sq. ft. n.. - 116
Shingles 25 sq. ft 25 sq. ft. I B" cedar 6d galvanized 30 30
shingles finish nai ls
Roof cop I @8' I @8' I x 4 cedar 3d galvanized lib. lib.
I @8' I @8' I x3 cedor roofing nails194 T I-I E COM PLETE CUtrJ E TO CO NT EMPORARY SH EDS
FLOOR FRAMING PLAN
6' -8"
6'-5"(orner post …=l
(enter post for garbage ,hed - --- 2x 4 (enter suppor’
2x 4 N ’” N
Side support ------ 2x 4 End support ~
FLOOR PLAN
8<1-
~
;'n-------
i~:::r2-=rr-='-Ir-:::=-=n::=-==-nc-:::::C~==~§~~~~;::;;:;;:::~~~;-
---------- ---------- --------- ------- -------- ------- --------- ---------- ------"" ----------
lor gorb,ge ,hed -I"> '"
------T~'
(enter post
II I 1'--, _ _ _ _ 1,,11 (orner past
I I: ""
: Ii i I i-------- I x 6 Reorsl,.,
11,::::::: ---------- ---------- ---------- -----.J I I for garbage shed
I il
II I!
Ii '--- !iiiI ""'" I x 6lidesl,,,
RBI ~:-i ~- ~- :i-~ - :=- :o-~ =:- :=- =:- ?- =- =;:- g- ~Vl~- - ~- ~-!:- :=- =:- =- %- : -= -~ ~-: :- =-'-i-~-~-l'-! :;:-~=-~=: :=-, ~:~- ~-"i.~l~f- - - - :~:~2~ ~;~ or.
H
Door panels for garbage shed shown dOlled
2' 0'
2'0" ,1)Vl 1'-8"
l V"~ Dimensians for garbage shed
ROOF FRAMING PLAN
6'8"
," "I
-----------
~
(enter post
for garbage shed
~
2 x 4 Rafters
@ sides and Yl paints
:> 2 x 4 Headers
/ (orner post
S i!ed Projects 195
BUILDING SECTION RAFTER TEMPLATES
2 x 4 Header
Cedar shingles over
15# bUilding paper
--:::O"""'~- 2 x 4 End rofters
¥t Plywood
rool shealhing ~4
12
12
4 c:::::::::d
2x 4
Header
2 x 4 (enler rofters
Door for
garbage shed
2· 2 x 4
Pasl
UPPER ROOF EDGE DETAIL
Ix 6
End slols - -t-Ili+-- Cedar shingles over
IS" building paper
1 x 6 Rear slols
~-~ I x 4/ 1 x3
lor garbage shed yt Plywood Roof (OP
Floor boards -
2x 6 -~~========~;=========~ll Ix 2
Roof edging
2 x 4 Header
2x 4
Floor supports
;;::L"': :'=========!"'o;t:hf---- (orner post
j 2x 4Rofter
2 x 4 ledger
~ ooorfor
garbage shed
for garbage shed
DOOR ELEVATION DOOR EDGE
& CORNER POST DETAIL
4' -21f{ 1'-9%" 1/,"
-
1 n
r I I I 1 x 4 Cedar
I II I I stiles and roils
I II ...:::::--- I ¥," Cedar
I
I I plywood ponel
II I I I
I II I I I
I
I
II
II
I I
I I
I 2 x 4 Posl=-~=:g:r&1~
;;;
I 1 x 6 Rear SIDls
I II I I for garbage shed
I
I
II
II
I I
I l- V!
t7 Hold
bock
plywood
Va" 1 x 6 Side slols - - - - , 1
I ----- II ----- I I __ L ~
from edges
Cul2 x 4
K- Posl - - - - - - - - - '196 T H E COM PLETE cu m E TO CONTEM PORARY SH EDS
FRONT ELEVATION1 x 4/ 1 x 3 Roof cop
Door panels & shell lor garbage shed , - - - - - - III , - - - - - - I 11 I , - - - - l shown dOlled I I III I I I II I
(orner Posl-====f-r+-------IHIHII—+------IIII II----J!
I III I I
y, Plywood shell I III I I II U _____ 1
on 1 x 3 deals
lor garbage shed III I II
I III I I I I I-----+-
2 x 6 Floor boards
I III I I II I I I
III I I I II I I I
I III I I I II I I I
2· yt·dio.
Log screws I
_____ 1 III I I
L ______ I
I I II I I
~ ____ ..J II
@ each post
g~~~~~~~~~~~~- I.
2 x 4 ledger
lor garbage shed
Rear cenler post lor garbage shed
REAR ELEVATION SIDE ELEVATIONCedar shingles
1 x 2 Roof edging
x;;." ~
12
,:-=::::::::::: 4
, , ----::::::::
---------~~--------- , , \ ~
r
-~~~~~~~~~!-~~~~~~~~~~ 0
0
------
i
-~~~~~~~~ -~F~~~~~~~~~
, I
, I
!
! i . ':£
~
i5
~
$
co:" .§
0
0
.~
-~~~~~~~~-!~-~~~~~~~~~ M~
! I
-~~~~~~~--~~~~~~~~~~~
/'
2 . W-dio . log screws @ each post .~
(orner post
1 x 6 Slots for garbage shed
2 x 4 (enler post for garbage shed
(orner post
S i!cd Projects 197
I How to Build the Service Shed
construct the oor frame: Cut the side supports, end Cut twelve 2 x 6 oorboards to length. Make sure the
supports, and one center support. Fasten the end supports floor frame IS square, then install the first board at one end,
between the sides with 3W' deck screws, as shown In the flush with the outsides of the frame, using 3" deck screws. Use
FLOOR FRAMING PLAN (page 195); locate the screws where 1" spacers to set the gaps as you install the remaining boards.
they won't interfere with the corner post lag screws (see Rip the last board as needed. (For the closed shed, create a
Step 4). Fasten the center support between the end supports, 1%" x 2" notch for the left door post, starting 26" from the left
centered between the side supports. end of the floor frame).
Build the corner posts: Rip two 8-ft. 2 x 4s to 2" in width. Trim the corner posts to length: First, cut the front posts
Make an 18° cut at about 53", leaving a 43" piece from each at 49", measuring from the longest point of the angled ends.
board. Cut two full-width 2 x 4 pieces at 53" and two at 43", Cut the rear posts at 38%", measuring from the shortest point
beveling the top ends at 18°. Assemble each front post to form of the angled ends. Mark the insides of the posts 1%" from
an "L', using the 53" pieces and keeping the angled ends flush; the bottom ends. Set each post on the floor frame so the
use 2%" deck screws. Assemble the rear posts the same way, mark is aligned with the bottom of the frame, then anchor
using th e 43" pieces. the post with two 3" lag screws and washers, driven through
counterbored pilot holes.198 • T H E COM PLETE GUID E TO CONTEM PORA IW SHED S
TO begin framing the roof, cut two 2 x 4 roof headers at 73”. Cut two upper and two lower rafters, following the Bevel the top edges of the headers at 18 using a CIrcular saw 0 RAFTER TEMPLATES (page 196). Install the end rafters between and cutting gUide or a tablesaw (the broad face of the header the corner posts, flush with the tops of the posts, using 2%” should still measure 3Yi’). Position the headers between the deck screws. Install the two center rafters between the headers, corner posts, flush with the outsides of the posts. Also, the 25” in from the end rafters. For the closed shed, cut the 2 x 4 beveled edges should be flush with the post tops. Fasten the rear center post to run from the bottom of the rear header headers to the posts with 2y,” deck screws. down to 1y,” below the bottom of the floor frame (as shown). Install the center post centered between the corner posts.
Plan the layout of the 1 x 6 slats,
gapping the slats as deSired . On each side,
the bottom slat mounts to the outside of
the floor, covenng the floor from view. The
remaining slats mount to the insides of the
corner posts. Cut the side slats to fit and
install them with 1%" deck screws. For the
closed shed, cover the rear side with slats,
using the same techniques.
(continued)
Sf!ed Projects • 199
Sheath the roof with a piece of ;;."
exterior plywood cut to 35W' x 81 %".
Overhang the posts by 3(." on all sides, and
fasten the sheathing to the posts, headers,
and rafters with 2" deck screws. Add 1 x 2
tJlm along all edges of the sheathing,
mitering the ends at the corners. Fasten
the trim with 6d galvanized fiJilsh nails so
the top edges are flush with the sheathing.
Apply building paper over the sheathing
and trim, overhanging the bottom roof
edge by 1" and the sides by '/," . Install the
cedar shingles (see page 58). Construct
the roof cap with 1 x 3 and 1 x 4 trim
boards. Join the boards to form an ''I.''
using 6d finish nails. Fasten the cap along
the top edge of the roof with 6d nails.200 • T H E COM PLETE GUID E TO CONT EM PORA IW SH EDS
I For the closed shed only, complete the following four steps
Cut the 2 x 2 door ledger at 73”. Install the ledger flush Install 1 x 3 shelf cleats at the desired height, fastening with the top of the floor frame, screwing through the back of them to the rear and side slats and the right doorpost. Cut the side support with 2Vi’ screws. Cut the 2 x 4 door posts the ‘I.” plywood shelf to fit the space and install It with 1%” to fit between the ledger and door header, as shown In the deck screws. FLOOR PLAN (page 195). Note: The left post is on edge, and the right post is flat. Make sure the posts are plumb, and fasten them with 2’h” screws.
For the door trim , cut four stiles at 41%” and four rails at Fasten the rails and stiles to the door panels with 1%” 18%” from three 8·ft. 1 x 4S. Cut two stiles at 41%” and two deck screws, following the DOOR ELEVATION (page 196). Screw rails at 14%” from one 10·ft. 1 x 4. Cut two ‘I.” plywood panels through the backsides of the panels. Install the doors with two at 23%” x 40” and one panel at 19%” x 40”. hinges each. use offset sash hinges mounted to the shed posts, or use standard strap hinges mounted to ‘1… ·thick blocks.
Sf!ed Projects • 20 1I Metal & Wood Kit Sheds T he fo ll owing pages walk you t hrough the steps of building two ne\v sheds from Idts. The meta l shed meas u res 8 x 9 ft. and comes \vith every piece in the comes “,th a comp lete wood floor, but t he building needs a standard fou ndation, such as wooden slzjd, co nc rete bloc k, or concrete slab fo un dation. To help keep e ither main bui ldi ng pre-cut an d pre-dri lled. All you need is a type of shed level and to reduce rn oisture fro rn ground ladder and a few hand too ls fo r assemb ly. The wood shed contact, it’s a good idea to bui ld it over a bed of cornpacted is a cedar build ing .vith panelized co nstruction-most of gravel. A 4”-deep bed that extends about 6” beyond the the major clements come in prcasscm blcd sectio ns. The bu ilding footprin t makes for a stable fou nda tion and helps wa lls pa nels have exterior sid ing insta lled, and the roof keep the interior dry throughou t the seasons. sectio ns are a lready sh ingled. For both sheds, the pieces Before you purc hase a shed kit, c heck wit h your are lightweight and ma neuverable, but it he lps to have at local bu il d ing departrne nt to learn about restrictions least t,·vo people for RUing everyt h ing toget her. that affect your project. It’s reco rnrn e nded- a nd often As with most kits, these sheds do not include requ ired- that lightvveigh t rnetal sheds be a nchored to fou ndations as part of the standa rd pClckage. The met<JI the groun d . Shed rnctnufact urers offer d ifferent ctnc horing shed can be built on top of a patio surface or out in the sys tems, includi ng cables fo r teth e ri ng the shed into soil, yard, with or without an optional floor. Th e ,vood shed and conc rete anc hors for tying into a co ncrete sla b.
202 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORA IW SHEDS
Sf!ed Projects • 203
I Building a Metal or Wood Kit Shed
If you need an outbu ilding but don't have th e time The best place to start s hopping fo r shed kits is
or inclinati on to buil d one from scra tch, a ki t shed on th e Inte rnet . Large man ufac ture rs and sma ll -s hop
is th e a nswer. Toda/s kit sheds are ava ila bl e in a custom des igners ali ke have we bsites fea turi ng th eir
\-vi de ra nge of ma te ria ls, sizes, an d styles- from prod ucts an d avai la bl e options. A quic k o nli ne sea rc h
snap-toge th er pl asti c lockers to Norwegian pin e cCl bin s shou ld help you narrO\v dO\vn your choices to sheds
w ith di vided-light w indows Cl nd loa ds of arc hitectural t hat fi t your needs an d budget. F rom th ere, you ca n
detail s. Eq uall y di verse is the range of quali ty Cl nci visit loca l dea lers or buil ders to vievv assem bled
prices for shed kj ts. O ne thin g to kee p in mind w he n sheds firsth and. \J\lhe n figuring cos t, be sure to
c hoos ing a s he d is that muc h of w hat you're payin g fac tor in all aspec ts of th e project, includi ng the
for is th e ma teri als and th e case of ins tallation. Better foundation, extra ha rdware, too ls you don't already
kits arc made with quali ty, long-las ti ng materi als, an d own, and pa int and ot her fin ishes not inc luded wi th
many come la rge ly preassem bled . Mos t of the featu res your kit.
discussed be low "viII have an im pact on a shed's cost.
High-tech plastics, like polyethylene
and vinyl are often combined with steel
and other IIgid materials to create tough,
weather-resistant- and washable-
kit bUildings.
If you're looking for something special.
higher-end shed kits allow you to break
With convention without breaking your
budget on a custom-built structure.204 • T H E COM PLETE GUI DE TO CONTEM PORA IW SHE D S
Features to Consider ~ Here are some of the key elements to check out before ASSEMBLY purchasing a kit shed: Many kit manufacturers have downloadable assembly instructions on their websites, so you can really see what’s MATERIALS involved In putting their shed together. Assembly of wood Shed kits are made of wood, metal, vinyl, various plastic sheds varies considerably among manufacturers- the kit compounds, or any combination thereof Consider may arrive as a bundle of pre-cut lumber or With screw- aesthetics, of course, but also durability and appropriateness together prefabricated panels. Easy-assembly models for your climate. For example, check the snow load rating may have wall siding and roof shingles already installed on the roof If you live in a snowy climate, or inquire about onto panels. the material’s UV resistance If your shed will receive heavy sun exposure. The finish on metal sheds is important for EXTENDERS durability. Protective finishes include paint, powder-coating, Some kits offer the option of extending the main building and vinyl. For wood sheds, consider all of the materials, with extenders, or expansion kits, making it easy to turn from the framing to the siding, roofing, and trimwork. an 8 x 10-ft. shed into a 10 x 12-ft. shed, for example.
EXTRA FEATURES FOUNDATION Do you want a shed With windows or a skylight? Some Check with the manufacturer for recommended kits come with these features, while others offer them as foundation types to use under their sheds. The optional add-ons. For a shed workshop, office, or other foundations shown in the Building Basics section (page 21) workspace where you’ll be spending a lot of time, consider should be appropriate for most kit sheds. the livability and practicality of the interior space, and shop accordingly for special features.
WHAT’S INCLUDED? Many kits do not include foundations or floors, and floors are commonly available as extras. Other elements that may not be Included:
• Paint, stain, etc- Also, some sheds come pre-painted (or pre-primed), but you won’t want to pay extra for a nice paint job if you plan to paint the shed to match your house • Roofing- Often the plywood roof sheathing is included but not the building paper, drip edge, or shingles. Shed hardware kits make it easy to build a shed from scratch. Using the structural gussets and framing Most shed kits include hardware (nails, screws) for connectors, you avoid tricky rafter cuts and roof assembly assembling the building, but always check this to Many hardware kits come with lumber cutting lists so you make sure. can build the shed to the desired size Without using plans.
Sf!ed Projects • 205
I How to Assemble a Metal Kit Shed
Prepare the building site by leveling and grading as needed, Note: Always wear work gloves when handling shed parts-
and then excavating and adding a 4"-thlck layer of compactible the metal edges can be very sharp. Begin by assembling the
gravel. If desired, apply landscape fabric under the gravel to I/oor kit according to the manufacturer's directions- these
inhibit weed growth. Compact the gravel with a tamper and will vary quite a bit among models, even within the same
use a level and a long, straight 2 x 4 to make sure the area IS manufacturer Be sure that the I/oor system parts are arranged
flat and level. so the door is located where you wish it to be. Do not fasten
the pieces at this stage.
Once you've laid out the floor system parts, check to Fasten the floor system parts together with kit
make sure they're square before you begin fastening them . connectors once you've established that the floor is square.
Measuring the diagonals to see if they're the same is a qUick Anchor the floor to the site if your kit suggests. Some kits are
and easy way to check for square. designed to be anchored after full assembly is completed.206 • T H E COM PLETE GUID E TO CONTEM PORA IW SH EDS
Begin installing the wall panels according to the Tack together mating corner panels on at least two instructions. Most panels are prednlled for fasteners, so the adjacent corners. If your frame stiffeners require assembly, main trick is to make sure the fastener holes align between have them ready to go before you form the corners. With a panels and with the floor. helper, attach the frame stiffener ralls to the corner panels.
Install the remaining fasteners at the shed corners once Layout the parts for assembling the roof beams and the you’ve established that the corners all are square. upper side frames and confirm that they fit together properly Then, join the assemblies with the fasteners provided.
(continued)
Sf!ed Projects • 207
10
Attach the moving and nonmoving parts for the upper Fasten the shed panels to the top frames, making sure to
door track to the side frames if your shed has sliding doors. that any fasteners holes are aligned and that crimped tabs are
snapped together correctly.
Fill in the wall panels between the completed corners, Fasten the doorframe trim pieces to the frames to finish
attaching them to the frames with the provided fasteners. Take the door opening. If the fasteners are colored to match the
care not to overdrive the fasteners. trim, make sure you choose the correct ones.208 • T H E COM PLETE GUID E TO CONTEM PORA IW SHED S
Insert the shed gable panels into the side frames and the Fit the main roof beam into the clips or other fittings on door track and slide them together so the fastener holes are the gable panels. Have a helper hold the free end of the beam . aligned . Attach the panels with the provided fasteners. Position the beam and secure it to both gable ends before attaching it.
Drive fasteners to affix the roof
beam to the gable ends and install any
supplementary support hardware for the
beam, such as gussets or angle braces.
(continued)
Sf!ed Projects • 209
Begin installing the roof panels at one end, fastening Apply weatherstripping tape to the top ends of the roof
them to the roof beam and to the top flanges of the panels to seal the Joints before you attach the overlapping
side frames. roof panels. If your kit does not include weatherstripping tape,
look for adhesive-backed foam tape In the weatherstripPing
products section of your local building center.
As the overlapping roof panels are installed and sealed, Attach the peak caps to cover the openings at the
attach the roof cap sections at the roof ridge to cover the ends of the roof cap and then Install the roof trim pieces at
panel overlaps. Seal as directed . Note: Completing one section the bottoms of the roof panels, tucking the flanges or tabs
at a time allows you to access subsequent sections from into the roof as directed. Install plywood floor, according to
below so you don't risk damaging the roof manufacturer Instructions.210 • T H E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORA IW SHEDS
21
\Assemble the doors, paying close attention to right/left Install door tracks and door roller hardware on the differences on double doors. Attach hinges for swinging doors floor as directed and then Install the doors according to the and rollers for sliding doors. manufacturer’s Instructions. Test the action of the doors and make adjustments so the doors roll or swing smoothly and are aligned properly.
Tips for Maintaining a Metal Shed ~
Touch up scratches or any exposed metal as soon as possible to prevent rust. Clean the area With a wire brush, and then
apply a paint recommended by the shed's manufacturer.
Inspect your shed once or twice a year and tighten loose screws, bolts, and other hardware. Loose connections lead
to premature wear.
Sweep off the roof to remove wet leaves and debris, which can be hard on the finish. Also clear the roof after heavy
snowfall to reduce the risk of collapse.
Seal open seams and other potential entry pOints for water with silicone caulk. Keep the shed's doors closed and
latched to prevent damage from Wind gusts.
Anchor the Shed ~
Metal sheds tend to be light In weight and require secure
anchOring to the ground, generally with an anchor kit that
may be sold separately by your kit manufacturer. There are
many ways to accomplish this. The method you choose
depends mostly on the type of base you've built on, be it
concrete or wood or gravel. On concrete and wood bases,
look for corner gusset anchors that are attached directly to
the floor frame and then fastened with landscape screws
(wood) or masonry anchors driven Into concrete. Sheds that
have been built on a gravel or dirt base can be anchored
With auger-type anchors that are driven into the ground Just
outside the shed. you'll need to anchor the shed on at least
two sides. Once the anchors are driven, cables are strung
through the shed so they are connected to the roof beam.
The ends of the cables should exit the shed at ground level
and then be attached to the anchors with cable clamps.
Sf!ed Projects • 21 1
I How to Build a Wood Kit Shed
Prepare the base for the shed's wooden skid foundation with Cut three 4 x 4 (or 6 x 6) pressure-treated timbers to
a 4" layer of compacted gravel. Make sure the gravel is flat, match the length of the shed's floor frame. Position two outer
smooth, and perfectly level. Note: For a sloping site, a concrete skids so they will be flush with the outside edges of the frame,
block foundation may be more appropriate (check with your and center one skid In between . Make sure that each skid is
shed's manufacturer). perfectly level and the skids are level with one another.
Prepare for the Delivery ~
Panelized shed kits are shipped on pallets. The delivery Once the load is on the ground, carry the pieces to
truck may have a forklift, and the driver can take off the the building site and stack them on pallets or scrap-wood
load by whole pallets. Otherwise, you'll have to unload the skids to keep them clean and dry. Look through the
pieces one at a time. Make sure to have two helpers on manufacturer's instructions and arrange the stacks
hand to help you unload (often drivers aren't allowed to according to the assembly steps.
help due to insurance liability).2 12 • T H E COM PLETE GUID E TO CONT EM PORA IW SH EDS
Assemble the floor frame pieces with screws. First. Join Attach the floor runners to the bottom of the floor frame, alternating pairs of large and small pieces to create three uSing exterior screws. Locate the side runners flush to the full-width sections. Fasten the sections together to complete outsides of the frame, and center the middle runner in the floor frame. between . set the frame on the skids with the runners facing down. Check the frame to make sure it is level. Secure the floor to the skids following the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Cover the floor frame with plywood, starting with a large Layout the shed’s wall panels in their relative positions sheet at the left rear corner of the frame. Fasten the plywood around the floor. Make sure you have them right-slde-up: the with screws. Install the two outer deck boards. Layout all of windows are on the top half of the walls; on the windowless the remaining boards In between, then set even gapping for panels, the siding tells you which end is up. each board. Fasten the remai ning deck boards.
(continued)
Sf!ed Projects • 213
Position the two rear corner walls upright onto the floor Place the door header on top of the narrow front wall panel
so the wall framing is flush with the floor's edges. Fasten the so it's flush with the wall framing. Fasten the header with
wall panels together. Raise and jOin the remaining wall panels screws. Fasten the door Jamb to the right-side wall framing to
one at a time. DO not fasten the wall panels to the shed floor in create a y," overhang at the end of the wall. Fasten the header
this step. to the jamb with screws.
confirm that all wall panels are properly positioned on Install the wall's top plates starting with the rear wall.
the floor: The wall framing should be flush with edges of the Install the side wall plates as directed- these overhang the
floor frame; the wall siding overhangs the outsides of the floor. front of the shed and will become part of the porch framing.
Fasten the wall panels by screwing through the bottom wall Finally, Install the front wall top plates.
plate, through the plywood flooring, and into the floor framing.2 14 • T H E COM PLETE GUID E TO CONT EM PORA IW SH ED S
11
•
Assemble the porch rail sections using the screws provided Install each of the porch rail sections: Fasten through th e for each piece. Attach the top plate extension to the 4 x 4 wall trim/support and Into the Side wall, locating the screws porch post, and then attach the wall tnm/support to the where they will be least visible. Fasten down through the wall extension. Fasten the corner brackets, centered on the post top plate at the post and corner bracket locations to hide the and extension. Install the handrail section 4” up from the ends of the screws. Anchor the post to the decking and floor bottom of the post. frame with screws driven through angled pilot holes.
Hang the Dutch door using two hinge pairs. Install the Join the two pieces to create the rear wall gable, hinges onto the door panels. Use three pairs of shims to screwing through the uprights on the back Side. On th e outer position the bottom door panel: Vi’ shims at the bottom, ‘fa” side of the gable, slide in a filler shingle until it’s even with shims on the left side, and ]I.” shims on the right side. Fasten the neighbonng shingles. Fasten the fi ller with two finish nails the hinges to the wall trim/support Hang the top door panel in located above the shingle exposure line, two courses up. the same fashion, using %” shims between the door panels. Attach the top filler shingle with two (exposed) galvanized finish nails.
(continued)
Sf!ed Projects • 215
Position the rear gable on top of the rear wall top plates Arrange the roof panels on the ground according to their
and center it from side to side. use a square or straightedge installation. Flip the panels over and attach framing connectors
to align the angled gable supports with the angled ends of the to the rafters at the marked locations, using screws.
outer plates. Fasten the gable to the plates and wall framing
with screws. Assemble and install the middle gable wall.
With one or two helpers, set the first
roof panel at the rear of the shed, then set
the opposing roof panel In place. Align the
ridge boards of the two panels, and then
fasten them together with screws. Do not
fasten the panels to the walls at this stage.2 16 • T H E COM PLETE GUID E TO CONTEM PORA IW SH EDS
Position one of the middle roof panels, aligning its outer Check the fit of all roof panels at the outside corners of rafter with that of the adjacent rear roof panel. Fasten the the shed. Make any necessary adjustments. Fasten the panels rafters together with screws. Install the opposing middle panel to the shed with screws, starting with the porch roof Inside the in the same way. Set the porch roof panels into place one at a shed, fasten the panels to the gable framing, then anchor the time- these rest on a y,” ledge at the front of the shed. From framing connectors to the wall plates. inside the shed, fasten the middle and porch panels together along their rafters.
Install the two roof gussets between
the middle rafters of the shed roof panels
(not the porch panels): First measure
between the side walls- this should equal
91" for this kit (see resources). If not have
two helpers push on the walls until the
measurement matches your requirement.
Hold the gussets level, and fasten them to
the rafters With screws.
(continued)
Sf!ed Projects • 217
Add filler shingles at the roof panel seams. Slide In the Cover the underside of the rafter tails (except on the
bottom shingle and fasten it above the exposure line two porch) with soffit panels, fastening to the rafters with fi nish
courses up, using two screws. Drive the screws into the rafters. nails. Cover the floor framing with skirting boards, starting at
Install the remaining filler shingles the same way. Attach the the porch sides. Hold the skirting flush with the decking boards
top shingle with two galvanized finish nails. on the porch and with the siding on the walls, and fasten it
with screws.
Add vertical trim boards to cover the wall seams and shed At the rear of the shed, fit the two fascia boards over the
corners. The rear corners get a filler tllm piece, followed by ends of the roof battens so they meet at the roof peak. Fasten
a Wide tllm board on top. Add horizontal trim boards at the the fascia with screws. Install the side fascia pieces over the
front wall and along the top of the door. Fasten all tllm with rafter tails with finish nails. The rear fascia overlaps the ends of
finish nails. the side fascia. Cover the fascia Joints and the horizontal trim
jOint at the front wall with decorative plates.2 18 • T H E COM PLETE GUID E TO CONTEM PORA IW SH ED S
Place the two roof ridge caps along the roof peak, complete the porch assembly by fastening each front overlapping the caps’ roofing felt In the center. Fasten the caps handrail section to a deck post, using screws. Fasten the with screws. Install the decorative gusset gable underneath the handrail to the corner porch post. The handrail should start porch roof panels using mounting clips. Finish the gable ends 4” above the bottoms of the posts, as with the Side handrail with two fascia pieces installed with screws. sections. Anchor each deck post to the decking and floor frame with screws (see Drilling Counterbored Pilot Holes, this page).
Drilling Counterbored Pilot Holes ~
use a combination piloting!
counterbore bit to pre-drill holes
for installing posts. Angle the
pilot holes at about 60', and
drive the screws Into the framing
below whenever possible.
The counterbore created by
the piloting bit helps hide the
screw head.
J
Sf!ed Projects • 219I Shed with Firewood Bin ilh over 37 square feet of sec ure storage space by th e classic shed-style roof. Shed roofs are not o nly and an open-air log bin th at ho lds over a ha lf c heaper to build than ga bles a nd o the r roof styles, cord of firewood, thi s shed is an es pecially ha ndy th ey’re al so much eas ier to frame and shingle (and less o utbuilding for bac kya rds, cabin lots, and vacm ion likely to leak) because th ere’s o nly o ne roof plane a nd properties alike. Its ec on omica l design makes it casy to no peak to deal with. fit anywhere and also simple and inexpensive to build . A noth er di stin ctive feature of thi s shed is its The s hed’s footprint measures 6 X 10ft. At th e timber-fra me floor. In stead of us ing a 2x fl oo r frame rea r s id e, th e roof stands at j ust over 7 ft” so th e shed set atop timbe r skid s, this floor has 4 x 4 timber filS nicel y aga inst a standard privacy fence. I n front , joists integrated wi th th e skid foundati on. Whil e a th e to p of th e s hed ri ses to nearl y 9 ft . above grade, standard shed floor req uires a ste p up of a lmost 12”, leaving roo m fo r two full -height doors and amp le thi s integrated design crea Les a step of onl y 4 ~ ”. A n headroom inside th e storage area . Th is low- profil e incline of tamped grave l or a short ra mp is all yo u need sha pe with no loss of usa ble space is made poss ible for rolling eq uipment right into th e shed .
ISOMETRIC
..o--_--------------- sef.sea shingles
::: 15# Roofing fell
VI" Roof sheeling
2 x 6 Rolters 16" O.L
::::;;t:.A;"t------------VI" Plywood shealhing
2 x 4 lookoul roffers
@ends
2 . 2 x 6 Header
ti-tHI--+ I+4!-+- - - - Door iamb & header
+ - - - - - Dauble 2 x 4 (orner
::::"~;,J!~_--- Floor froming for lag sloroge
III-+P:oP""::;:;.~~:::-------- Triple 2x 4 (orner
Provide ¥I" p~wood shim
under woll220 T i lE COM PLETE CU I[) E TO CONT EM PORA IW SH EDS
Cutting List Description Quantity/ Size Material Description Quantity/ Size Material Foundation/Floor (omer trim at log bin 2 @ 10’, 2@B’ I x 6 cedar Drainage moleriol I cu. yd. Compaclible grovel Drip edge, door slops 9@B’ I x 2 cedar Skids 2@10’ 4 x 4 pressUie-lreoted & bollom Irim landscape limbers Roofing Floor jOisls 3@ 12’ 4 x 4 pressure-treated Shealhing 3 sheels@4xB’ 111- exterior-grade plywood landscape limbers (& door header spacer) roof shealhing Bin jOisls & floor S@ 12’ 2 x 4 pressure’lreoled IS# bUilding paper I roll Corner brockels 20 @ 3W x 3W Galvanized melol Shingles 1 square Asphalt shingles- 2S0# (orner bl(]cket per sq. min. Shealhing 2 sheels@4xB’ l/4 ” tongue-&-groove Doors exl.·grode plywood Doors 2@ %x% xl ¥/ Exterior wood doors Wall Framing Fasteners & Hardware Bollom ploles 2@10’,3@B’ 2 x 4 pressure-treated 16d galvanized 10 Ibs. Top ploles 2@12’,4@IO’ 2x 4 common noils Sluds 42@B’ 2x 4 16d (ommon nails Bibs. Door header 2@B’ 2x 6 I Od cammon nails I lb. Bin header I @12’ 2x 6 Bd galvanized 2 Ibs. Roof Framing common noils
Rafters 9@B’ 2x 6 Bd box nails 2 Ibs. Exterior Finishes Bd galvanized siding nails Sibs. Siding 2 sheels@4x9’ ‘fa” Texlure 1·11 Bd galvanized casing 2 Ibs. 7 sheels@4xB’ plywood siding nails (Irim) Z·floshing 20 lineor ft. Melol Z·floshing ]1/4” galvanized 2 Ibs. rooling noils Bin shealhing (oplionol) 3 sheels@4xB’ ’(,” exl.·grode plywood Door hinges with screws 6@3W’ Galvanized melol hinges Fascia 2@12’,2@IO’ I x Bcedar Door handle w/lock Cornertrim 3@ 1O’,3@B’ I x 4 cedar Door head boll Soffil I sheel @ 4 x B’ ‘Ir” exl.·grode plywood Door fool bolt Soffil venls (oplionol) 6@ 12” Metol louvered vents (onstruction adhesive Door jambs &trim 6@B’ I x 4 cedar Door & panel molding B@B’ 2 x 2 cedar (oplionol)
S/!ed Projects 221
SECTION
Self-seal shii na l,, ~_
15# BUilding paper
1ft" Roof sheathing
2 x 6 Rafters, 16" 0.(,
1 x 2 Roof edge trim
2· 2 x 4 Top plole
1 x 8 Fascia
*" b:l. plywd
w/louver yenls
Ifi" n ·11 Siding _ --1i l
2 x 4 Wall studs --------=j---lI-
2 x 4 Bollomplole
Treated 4 x 4 skid
3%" MIL (orner b"d"t/II"
4" Gravel bose
FRONT FRAMING
10'-OYo'
10'- 0"
Nolch lor (om ma nwall I' I v.-,
lop plale I I I,
Ib--<--"" III I
2- 2 x 4Tap plote f-_ ----
~ ---- V
I
2- 2 x 6Heo der
~ "\ ---- /
2· 2 x 6Heo
i~ I
I ~
.,;
>~
w/ Vt" plYWDO
-
II -II Siding layout
~
0
'"~
'- '"
:.,
. I
2 x 4Walisi uds
I
~. 16' 16\
yt Plywood shimunder wall
@ log 510rog e only 10"
5'- 2"
2 x 4 Plale
"\ ~
4 x 4 Treated skid
41f1"/
/
*" Plywoodfloar
(UIOUI2 x 4 bottom plale in
doorwayafte rwoll is assembled
/222 T il E COM PL ET E CU 11)E TO CONTEM POHA IW SII EJ) S
REAR FRAMING
10'-OYo"
10'-0"
~c--'
1
I \\
I
I
\
/ \\ I I
/
I
I
8"---j
/
\ x\ 1\ \.0"
X
/
1\"
" 16\
OC \
I
1/
C
16"
O.C
0\ I
1/ 16"
--- all Plywood shim under wall
@ log storage only
FLOOR FRAMING
10'-0"
,3%” MIL <Orne r bro(e @ each corner l , ,- ,- ‘I -+ I 1\ I
I iii I" ill /2 x 4 Treated floor joists … . . r— I 1:”- II I I II \
\ / \ /
I II II~ ~I2 x 4 Treated flooring
<
\~. Plywood 110 or layoul
1 /
4 x 4 Treated skid - ‘2’-6” 1’/ 2\ 2’iC \ 0”
0(
No plywd. 1100 r in this area -
/'
-i!k I! /
/
, --.J L ---" IL
I
-.J L
\Apply lI” plywd. shim 10 lop of 4 x 4 in thiS area /0”
Si!cd Projects 223
COMMON WALL FRAMING
..
2x 6Rafte rs,16" 0(
2 x 4SIUds
~
:..
""
3 Y,"~1A
161ft" 16" 16" 16Y,"
O.t 0.(.
S' .S" J} 3Y,
RIGHT SIDE FRAMING
- 2, x 6 Rafters, 16" 0.(.
[C---u----:: 2 x 4 Lookout rafter
I\~~
~
\ II
I' /
I~\ ".
:.,
8"~
\ I
16"\ 16"
I'
~
II
0(, \
It 0.(.
1\
S'·S"224 T il E COM PL ET E C UIDE TO CONT EM POH AIW SII EDS
LEFT SIDE FRAMING
t---8;!;:--:--:-~;~~~~~;~~;;t==t== 2 x 4lookolll ralter
"'7 2 - 2 x 6Heoder
'-':\:Tt---+-- 2 x 4 Haunch
6'0"
FLOOR PLAN
II II II
- -
F2 x 4 Fromin 9 below = = *” Plywood floor =
(ommon wall = = =
- -
II rTlrT
y,Apply plyw d. shim .I under stud wall 01 log storage orea
Si!cd Projects 225
FRONT ELEVATION REAR ELEVATION
1 x 2 Edge lrim
1 x 8 Fascia
""''' ~ ..
I x SFoscio ~
~~
~
Typ.
1 x 4 (orner boards YO Il _1I7~ ---------
YO II -II 1 x 4 (orner boards
2 x 2 Molding
1 x 4 Trim
RIGHT ELEVATION LEFT ELEVATION
I x 2 Edge trim
1 x 2 Edge trim
1 x 8 Fosdo
1 x 8 Fascia
S"
Typ.
YO II -II
Siding on back wall only
1 x 4 (orner boards 1 x 4 (orner boa rds
YO II -II226 T il E COMPLETE CUIDE TO CONTEMPOHA IW SII EDS
RAFTER TEMPLATE
1%"
2 x 6 Roher templale 2 x 6 Rafter templole
(ullor lop plate CUI for lop plate
~.
r ~
4Yt l¥i"
7' · o ~·r
HEAD & SILL DETAIL DOOR DETAILS
~S3--- 2 x 4 Ii. plol.
""'' '1--_
2 x 4 Top plate
I x 4 Irim - - - - - - - - - - - - ,
1 x 2 Door slop
- , - - 2 x 4 Studs
1 x 2 Weather slop trim
'''1--
2 - 2 x 6 Header W/Vl" plywood
II -II Siding @insideface of door ~1
2', 6" x 6' -8" x 1%"
1 x 4 Trim Flush door w/2 x 2 molding
1 x 2 Door slop
Yi x Y. x m"
Flush door w/2 x 2 molding
2 x 2 Molding 2x 4SIud
1 x 2 Irim under door only & cripple wall
4 x 4 Floor framing II -II Siding
%" Plywood 2 x 2 Molding
3·3%" x 3%"
~ Door hinges (per door)
1 x 4 Trim
HEADER DETAILS CORNER DETAIL
if1" Plywood Provide ¥t
rool sheathing plywood shim
under wall2 x 4 Siud 2” x 6” Rafter 1 x 2Roof 2x 4 2” x 4” Tie plate edge trim 2 x 4 Bottom plate 2” x 4” Top plate I-I-II Siding 2x4 8” Ilyp.1 1 x 8 Fascia Bollam plate 2 x 4 Studs below 2 x 4 Lookout rofter, 2” x4” noiled in through bock 2 x 4 Cripple stud Blocking of 2” x 6” ralter 2 x 4 Bonom plote 2 - 2” x 6” Bull up 10 2- 2x 6 Heoder fro me 1 x 4Trim on top of 2x 4slud Heoder 2” x 4” stud I-I-II Shim 2x 4 Trim or Blo(king 2” x 4” siding (overing 1 x 6 Trim (orner studs
Si!ed Projects 227
I How to Build the Shed with Firewood Bin
1. Prepare the foundat io n site wi th a 4" layer of stud s in t he door openi ng are 79 Y2" long, a nd th e
compac ted grave l. C ut t he two outer 4 x 4 bui lt-up 2 x 6 door headcr is 65" long. Add both
t imber sk ids (120" ). Pos itio n the skids on th e top plates on the front wal l. Insta ll the front wa ll ,
gravel bed so t heir outside edges are 72" apa rt, t hen add th e double top plates on t he right side
making s ure they are level an d para ll e l vv ith an d reur \".ra ll s, ove rlapp ing the plutes at the ri ght
one <:IIlother. reur co rn er.
2. C ut six 4 x 4 Aoor joists (65" ) and four 2 x 4 6. Bu ild t he com mon wall in place (see th e
bin jo ist s (26 W'). A nc ho r th e joists to t he skids COMMON WA LL FRAM ING , page 22 4).
with metal angles fastened wit h 16d galva ni zed Cu t t he trea te d bottom pla te (65") a nd in stall it
co mmon na il s, as shown in th e FLOOR Aush to th c cdgc of th c shed arca fl oo r dcckin g.
FRAMING (pagc 223 ). Toc na il thc inncr bin M itcr thc c nd of the rcar c nd stu d at 14 0 so the
jo ists to t he Aoor joists. All joists must be flush outer edge is flush wit h the rea r wa ll top plate.
with the tops of the outer skid s. N otch the front wa ll top plates to make room fo r
3. Deck t he cab in area of the shed Aou r fra me with the com mon wu ll top plate , plus I Yi 6 i! of t he rafter
t\VO trimmed sheets of -Y.! " plywood, as shown in depth. Cut a nd insta ll the top plate. Cu t and
the SKID FRAM ING. The sheets should be Au sh insta ll the four studs as shown.
wi th th e oll ts ides of t he skid s and joists ove r the 7. Cu t two 2 x 6s (72" ) for the hin heade r. C lip t he
e ntire s hed po rti on of th e frame. Cover the e nds top rear corne r of each boa rd : Mark 1 ~" down
of th e sk ids in the bin area with 3 Y2"-widc stri ps of fro m th e top and 4%" fro m th e end; con nect th e
ply\vood fl oo r sheathin g. mar ks, then cu t along th e line. Join the heade r
4. Fra me the rear wal l as shown in the REAR pieces with construction adhes ive and pairs of 1ad
FRAM ING (page 223 ), using a treated bottom common na il s d riven every 121!. In sta ll t he header
plate an d a single top plate. The studs a re 73 %" on top of th e front wa ll studs and rear wa ll top
long. In sta ll and brace the wa ll. Frame an d instal l plate. Leave a I Y2 ' T space between th e header a nd
the square portion of th e ri gh t side \va ll as s hown th e c nd of the rca r wa ll. Add 2 X 4 blocks betwcen
in th e HIG HT S IDE FHAM ING (page 224). the header a nd front wa ll top p lates.
Do not ins ta ll the doubl e top p late or the rake 8. Complete the bin Aoor fo ll owi ng the FLOOR
(angled) studs at thi s time. PLAN (page 225 ). Cut e ight treated 2 x 45 (65" )
5. Cons truct th e fro nt wa ll following th e FRONT un d constr uct the th ree assem blies as shovm
F RAM ING (page 222 ). The two studs that will in t he plan. Install th e assemb lies using 16d
su pport th e bin header are 761'4" long. The jack ga lvan ized com mon nai ls.228 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORA IW SHEDS
-
In sta ll plywood s id ing alo ng th e fron t a nd cove r t he inte ri o r \va ll s of th e bin w it h Y211 rea r wa ll s as shown in th e FRO NTIHEA R exte rio r pl ywood. F RAM ING . T rim t he s heets fo r th e rea r wa ll 13. Add Rve 2 X 4 looko uts (7%”) to eac h e nd so t hey run from t he to p of t he \va ll down to 111 ra fte r as s hown in th e LEFT an d RI G HT SID E below t he pl ywood fl oor sheat hin g. On th e fro nt F RAM ING. In stall I x 8 fa sc ia boa rd s a lo ng v,lall , ru n full shee ts sta rt ing ] 11 be lm’v t he fl oor. all fo ur s ides of t he roof, fl us h wit h th e to ps Add Z-fl as hin g on top of t he s heets, a nd th en of t he ra fte rs. C ut strips o f %11 so ffit mate rial co nti nu e with strips of siding u p to th e top of to enc lose th e rafte r bays , beve ling t he in side th e wa lt. edges a t 14 ’ . Insta ll th e soffit s so th ey are flu sh
-
C ut a pa tte rn rafte r foll owing th e RAFTE R wi th th e outs ides of th e e nd rafte rs. Add soffit TEM P LAT E (page 227 ). Tes t-fit t he raft e r ve nti ng, if d esired. a nd make a ny necessa ry adj ustmen ts. Use 14 . Dec k t he roof w ith sheat hi ng, sta rti ng a t o ne t he patte rn to c ut t he eight rema in ing rafters. of t he lowe r co rn ers . T he s hea thin g s hou ld In stall t he ra fte rs us ing 16 11 o n-ce n te r s pac ing. cove r th e to ps o f th e fascia boards. In sta ll Th e oute r ru ft e rs s ho uld be ftu s h wit h t he I X 2 dri p ed ge a lo ng a ll s ides of th e roof, flu s h sid e wa ll s. with th e top of th e s hea thin g. Add buildin g ] 1. Co mpl ete th e left wa ll fram ing as sho”,m in th e pa pe r an d s hin gles, fo ll owing th e ste ps o n LEFT S I DE FR AM I NG: C ut th e rea r en d of th e page 56 . 2 X 4 na ile r to fo llow th e en d rafter, and insta ll 15. T rim t he s id es an d to p of th e bi n o pening wi th it flu sh wi t h t he botto m edge of th e bi n heade r. I X 4 a nd I X 6, as s ho wn in th e C OR NE R Cut two 2 x 4 co rn er braces (24”), m ite rin g th e D ETA IL (page 227 ); use I X 6 a long th e top of e nds at 45’ . In sta ll th e braces so th ei r e nds are t he ope n ing. Cove r the s hed corn e rs wit h 1 x 4 equidista nt from th e co rn e rs an d th e ir oute r trim . If desi red , c rea te d ecor<:ltive 2 x 2 fram es edges <:I re flu sh vv ith th e naile r an d ,\r<:l ll studs. a nd a ppl y th e m to th e s iding a nd d oors (see t he Insta ll a 2 X 4 jac k stud to fit betwee n th e FR ONT ELEVAT IO N, page 226 ) hin fl oo r and th e corner brace o n each side of ] 6. Prepare t he d oo r ope n ing w ith 1 x 4 t rim as t he openi ng. s how n in th e DO O R D ETA ILS (page 227).
-
C u t a nd insta ll th e fou r ra ke studs on th e In sta ll th e doo rs us ing th ree hin ges for e<:lc h . right s ide wa ll , as show n in th e RI G HT S IDE Add] x 2 stops a ro un d th e ope nin g, plu s a t rim F RAM ING. Cove r th e s ide wa lls w it h s iding, piece und e rn eath t he doo r. Add a I x 2 wea th er starting with a full shee t at t he rea r of th e ri ght stop to th e back s ide of o ne doo r. Ins ta ll doo r side wa ll. O n t he le ft s ide wa ll , run th e siding la tc h hardv,la re , as des ired. Pa int o r a ppl y clear to t he in s ide edges of th e bin opening. If d esired, woo d protec tant:.
S f! ed Projects • 229
I Additional Shed Plans I Salt Box Storage Sheds • Three popular sizes: 8’ x 8’ 12’ x 8’ 16’ x 8’ • Wood floor on gravel base or concrete lIoor • Height, floor to peok: 8’·2” • Front woll height: 7’ • 6’·0” x 6’·5” double door for eosy oecess • Complete list of moteriols • Step-by-step instructions
16'-0"
.. 12 '- 0" :>
0[: :
~
Q)
I I
I
I
I
l. L .
I
I
I
I
::
I
I
I
I
__ L.J
I
I
I
I
}\.
Design # 002D-4500
I Barn Storage Sheds with Loft
• Three popular sizes:
12' x 12'
12' x 16'
12' x 20'
• Wood floor on concrete pier founda tion
or concrete floor
• Height, floor to peok: 12'·10"
• Ceiling height: 7'-4"
• 4'·0" x 6'·8" double door for eosy oecess
• Complete list of moteriols
• Step-by-step instructions
.-----,-- ------- -,
, ,
r-r----------i
~O · 'D
~~?
- N ' ,
I.' .I
12 '- 0 "
De sign #002D·4501
Visit vvvvvv.projectplans.com to order and view additiona l proj ects.230 T H E COMPL ETE CUIJ) E TO CO NT EMPORA IW SHEDS
I Gable Storage Sheds • Four populor sizes: 8’ x 8’ 8’ x 10’ 8’ x 12’ 8’ x 16’ • Wood floor on 4 x 4 runners • Height, floor to peak: 8’-4v,” • Ceiling height: 7’ • 4’-0” x 6’-5” double door lor easy access • Economicol and easy-to-build shed • Complete list of materials • Step-by-step instructions
"
~ \> b~D-
------i
N.' 0
- 0 ,
-"
~
8 '-OA
Design # 002D-4503I Large Gable Storage Sheds • Three popular sizes: 10’ x 12’ 10’ x 16’ 10’ x 20’ • Wood floor on 4 x 4 runners • Height floor to peak: 8’-8 Y,” • Ceiling height: 7’ • 4’-0” x 6’-4” double door lor easy access • Complete list of moterials • Step-by-step instructions
,,
'0 0
,,.... ---------
,
" ,
00
N , IO
~ ,
~
-'
I( I; 0-,I
Design #002D-4504
Visit wvvw. projec tplans.com to order and view additional projec ts.
Additiolln i Shed Plans 231
I Children's Playhouse
• Size: 8' x 8'
• Wood floor on 4 x 4 runners
• Height, floor to peol: 9'-2"
• Ceiling height: 6'-i"
• 2' ~eep porch
• Attroctive window boxes
• Includes operoble windowl
• Complete lilt of moteriol,
• Step-by-step inshuctions
8'-0"
,
o
,t
IX)
Design #002D-4505
I Barn Storage Sheds
• Three popular sizes:
i2' x 8'
12' x i2'
i2' x i6'
• Wood floor on concrete pier foundation
or concrete floor
• Height, floor to peol: 9'-iO"
• Ceiling height: 7'-i 0"
• 5'-6" x 6'-8" double door for eolY O([ess
• Gambrel roof design
• Complete lilt of moteriol,
• Step-by-step instructions
1< i 2'- 0" 'I
i-----------:
:i-----------:'
a-' . : '
5e . 1 0
,
Co
o
Design #002D-4508
Visit wvvw.projectp lans.com to order and view additional projects.232 T H E COMPL ETE CUJrlE TO CO NT EMPORA IW SHEDS
I Mini-Barn Storage Sheds • Four populor sizes: 7’3” x 6’ 7’3” x B’ 7’3” x 10’ 7’3” x 12’ • Wood floor on 4 x 6 runners or concrete floor • Height, floor to peol: 9’ • Ceiling height: 7’·4” • 3’·0” x 6’·B” door • Am”tive styling with gombrel roof • Complete list of moteriols • Step-by-step instructions
,
;r-----+, ----- - ~
:9£" 9 b, l:- 'Q------~
, ,0
~ a:, , I
to
,.. ' i ;:
~
De sign #002D-4510I Gable Storage Shed with Cupola • • • Size: 12’ x 10’ Wood floor on concrete piers or concrete floor Height, floor to peol: 9’·B” ,. ~ ~~
• Ceiling height: 7’·4” ~~” • 3’·0” x 6’·8” door to , : ~
r~" ~
~.
. .• Mode of cedor plywood with bottens • Complete list of moteriols • Step·by·step instructions
12' -0·
1< :> I
.-i----.,
,
o
,I
o
\
~L..--V
;----"--""
De sign #002D-4511
Visit wvvw. projec tp lans.com to orde r and view additional projects.
Addi tiolln i Shed Plans 233
I Deluxe Cabana
• Size: II'O"x 13'6"
• Conc"te floor
• Height, floor to pook: II '-7"
• Ceiling height: 8'
• Unique roof design with skylight
• Convenient dressing room and servicing oreo
• Perfect storege for poolside furniture
and equipment
• Complete list of moteriols
• Step-by-step inst/octions
11'- 0'
,
<0
,I
M
Design #002D-451 8
I Yard Barn with Loft Storage
• Size: 10' x 12'
• Wood floor on 4 x 4 runners
• Height, floor to pook: 10'-/"
• Ceiling height: 6'-11"
• 6'-0" x 6'-2" double door for oosy oecess
• Loft provides additional storage oreo
• Amoetive styling is suitoble for ony yOid
• Complete list of moteriols
• Step-by-step inst/uctions
10'-0'
I'" ~I
•o
,I
N
Design #002D-4520
Visit wvvw.projectp lans.com to order and view additional projects.234 T H E COMPL ETE CUJrl E TO CO NT EMPORA IW SHEDS
I Garden Shed • Size: 10’ x 10’ • Wood floor on 4 x 4 runners • Height, floor to pook: 11 ‘-3 ‘1,” • left woll height: 8’ • Wonderful complement to ony bockyord • Perfect spoce for lown equipment or plonts ond flowers • Plenty of windows for gordening yeor-round • Complete list of moteriols • Step-by-step instluctions
10'-0'
E
t "t
•o
I r-lr-lr-,
b t II
II
II
II
I
II II
Design #002D-4523I Workroom with Covered Porch • Size: 24’ x 20’ • Building height: 13’-6” • Roof pitch: ‘/11 • Ceiling height: B’ • Slob foundotion • Eosy occess through double-door en tlY • Interior enhanced by lorge windows • Lorge enough for storoge • Complete list of moteliols • Step-by-step instructions
{ Walk loom
1 ry l
t-. 24 '- Q"
Design #002D-7520
Visit wvvw.projectp lans.com to order and view additional projects.
Additiolln i Shed Plans 235I Resources Asphalt Roofing Manufacturers Association Paint Quality institute 202-207-0917 wwwpaintquality.com wwwasphaltroofing.org Simpson Strong-Tie Co. The Betty Mills Company 800-999-5099 2121 S. EI Camino Real, Suite D-100 wwwstrongtie.com San Mateo, CA 94403 800-BettyMills Southern Pine Council wwwbettymills.com Designs by Bruce Pierce: Simple Storage Shed (p. 154 to 165), Gothic Playhouse (p. 166 to 179) The Big eZee Kemer, LA Metal Kit Sheds www southernpine.com 101 N. Fourth St Breese, IL 62230 DuraMAX 800-851-1085 Available at the Betty Mills Company 800-BettyMills Cedar Shake & shingle Bureau wwwbettymills.com 604-820-7700 wwwcedarbureau.org Finley products, Inc. 1018 New Holland Ave. Certified Wood Products Council Lancaster, PA 17601 503-224-2205 888-626-5301 wwwcertifiedwood.org www.2x4basics.com
HDA, Inc. Summerwood Products
Designs: Clerestory Studio (p. 86 to 99), sunlight Garden 735 Progress Avenue
Shed (p. 100 to 113), Convenience Shed (p. 124 to 137), Toronto, Ontario M1 H 2W7
Service Shed (p. 192 to 201), Shed with Firewood Bin Canada
(p. 220 to 229) 866-519-4634
St Louis, MO www.summerwood .com
800-373-2646/ plan sales
314-770-2228/ technical assistance
www.houseplansandmore.com
Photo Credits
Photo courtesy of The Betty Mills Company Dency Kane
p. 204 (top) p. 8 (lower right), 9 (top)
Photo courtesy of Finley Products Inc. Eric Roth
p. 205 p. 6, 13 (lower), 14 (top)
Dennis Henderson Jerry pavia
p. 16, 17 (top & lower) p. 9 (lower), 12 (top & lower), 13 (top)
Douglas Keister Photos courtesy of Summerwood Outdoors, Inc.
p. 14 (lower) p. 8 (top & lower left), 10 (top & lower), 11 (top), 18 (top),
62 (left & right), 204 (lower)
Photo courtesy of DuraMAX
p. 11 (lower left) Photo courtesy of Spirit Elements
p. 203
Clive Nichols
p. 11 (lower right), 15, 18 (lower), 19236 • T H E COM PLETE GUID E TO CONT EM PORA IW SH ED S
Metric Conversion Charts Converting Measurements To Convert: To: Multiply by: To Convert: To: Multiply by: Inches Millimeters 2.4 Millimeters Inches 0.039 Inches Centimeters 2.\4 Centimeters Inches 0.394 Feet Meters 0.30\ Meters Feet 3.28 Yords Meters 0.914 Meters Yords 1.09 Square inches Squore centimeters 6.4\ Square centimeters Square inches 0.1\5 Squore fee t Square meters 0.093 Square meters Squore feet 10.8 Squore yords Square meters 0.836 Square meters Squore yords 1.2 Cubic inches Cubic centimeters 16.4 Cubic centimeters Cubic in ches 0.061 Cubic feet Cubic meters 0.0283 Cubic meters Cubic feet 3\ .3 Cubic yords Cubic meters OJ 6\ Cubic meters Cubic ords 1.31 Pounds Kilograms 0.4\4 Kilograms Pounds 2.2
Lumber Dimensions Nominal - U.S. Actual - U.S. (in inches) Metric Nominal - U.S. Actual - U.S. (in inches) Metric Ix2 3f4 x 1111 19x38mm 2x 3 11/1 X 2111 38x64mm Ix3 %X 21/1 19x64mm 2x 4 11/1 X 31J2 38 x 89 mm Ix4 %x 311 1 19 x 89 mm 2x 6 11/1 X 5111 38 x 140 mm Ix\ %X 41/1 19x114mm 2x 8 11/2 X 7if. 38 x 184 mm Ix6 %x 51/1 19x140mm 2 x 10 11/1 X 9V. 38 x 235mm Ix7 3f4 X 61/4 19x1S9mm 2 x 12 1V1 x 11 V. 38 x 286 mm Ix8 3f4 x 7if. 19x184mm 4x 4 31/1 X 3V1 89x89mm I x 10 31. X 91/. 19 x 23S mm 4x 6 31/1 X 51/7 89 x 140 mm I x 12 0/. x 1P/4 19 x 286 mm 6x 6 51/1 X 51/] 140 x 140 mm 2x 2 l V1 xPh 38x38mm 8x 8 7 1~ X 7”1. 184 x 184 mm
Metric Plywood Counterbore, Shank & Pilot Hole Diameters
Standard Sheathing Grade Sanded Grade Counterbore Clearance Pilot Hole Diameter
Screw
7.S mm (1~ 6”) 6 mm (‘M) Diameter for Hole for
Size
Screw Head Screw Shank Hard Wood Soft Wood
9.\ mm (3;a”) 8 mm (16 ”)
#1 .146 (%,) ‘/64 %4 1/32
12.\ mm (1;/’) II mm e 6”) #2 y, %1 %4 Vn
1.\ mm (1/8”) 14mm (96”) #3 y, 7/.4 1/16 %.
18.5 mm (‘14”) 17 mm (2/3”) # y, ’/, YH %.
#5 y, ’/, %4 IA.
20.\ mm (131i6”) 19 mm (‘14 ”) %. Y••
#6 VI. %2
22.5 mm (7;,”) 21 mm (13 6”) #7 VI6 ‘/31 %2 ‘/.4
2\ .5 mm (I”) 24 mm (111i6”) #8 % 11/64 y, %1
#9 % 11/64 y, 3/31
#10 % VI. y, %4
#11 y, Vi. Vl1 %4
#12 '/' %2 %. ,/,
I\"elric Cml1'erSiOIl Charts • 237I Index A drawings, 127-132 lumber for, 27 Accessories overview of, 124-125 roofs, 46- 51 ideas for, 12 Costs and size, 18 walls, 42-45 kits and, 10 counterbored pilot holes, drilling, 219 Frost lines, 28 Al uminum hardware, 27 Country style Anatomy of sheds, 26 exteriors, 9, 180 G Angles, marking, 47 inte riors, 13, 18 1 Gable roofs Approvals needed, 21 Cupola, plan for gable storage shed described, 47 Asian style, 15 with,233 fascia on, 52 Asphalt shingles, 52, 56-57 framing, 51 Attached sheds, 11 D Gable storage shed plans, 231, 233 Deluxe cabana plan, 234 Galvanized steel hardware, hot-dipped, 27 B Dimensions of lumber, 27 Gambrel garage shed Barn storage shed plans, 230, 232-233, 234 Doors building, 148-153 Barn storage sheds with loft, 230 building platforms to, 82-83 cutting list, 140 Basic storage shed building ramps to, 74-77 drawings, 141- 147 building, 162-165 building stairs to, 79-81 overview of, 138-139 considerations, 154-155 Gothic, 166, 167 Gambrel roofs cutti ng list, 156 homemade, 73 described, 47, 139 drawings, 157-161 installing flashing above, 73 fascia on, 52 Bird’s mouth cuts, 48 installing prehung, 72 framing, 51 Board lumber, 27 installing trim, 68 Garden shed plan, 235 Building codes placement of, 8 Gothic playhouse building department approval, 21 Dormers, 8 building, 175-179 foundations and, 28 Drainage and siting, 22 considerations, 166-167 siting and, 22 Drawings, wo rking with construction, cutting list, 168 Building paper, installing on roofing, 55 24-25 drawings, 169-174 Building section drawings, 24 Drilling counterbored pilot holes, 219 Gothic style architecture, 166 Greenhouses C E building, 109-113 Cabana plan, 234 Elevations (drawings), 25 cutting list, 102 Cedar drawings, 103-108 advantages, 27 F ideas for, 19 roof shingles, 52, 58-59 Fasteners, 27 overview of, 100-101 shingle ideas, 14, 18 Finishes, 27 Guest houses, 16-17 Children’s playhouses. See Playhouses Finish lumber, 27 Clerestory studio Firewood bin shed H building, 95- 99 building, 228-229 Hardware cutti ng list, 88 cutti ng list. 221 described, 27 drawings, 89-94 drawings, 220, 222- 227 for metal roofing, 60 overview of, 86-87 overview of, 220 used on siding, 62 Closet sheds. See Lean-to tool bin Firewood seasoning shed Hip roofs, described, 47 Collar ties, 47 building, 198-200 Holes, pre-drilling, 219 components of sheds, 26 considerations, 192-193 Homemade doors & win dows, 73 Concrete cutti ng list, 194 Horizontal siding building block fou ndations, 30-31 drawings, 195-197 installing, 63-64 building pier foundations, 32- 35 Flashing above doors & windows, trim and, 68 building slabs fou ndations, 36-39 installing, 73 Hot-dipped galvanized steel hardware, 27 estimating amount needed, 39 Floors foundations and permanent structure framing, 40-4 1 K classification, 22 installing plywood, 41 Kit sheds lumber for slab fou ndations, 42 Foundations considerations, 202-203, 205 pouring tips, 39 building codes and, 28 custom details with, 8, 10 construction (CON5n Grade No.2 building concrete block, 30-31 See a/so Metal kit sheds; Wood kit sheds lumber, 27 building concrete pier, 32-35 Knotty pine paneling ideas, 13, 180 Construction drawings, worki ng with, building concrete slab, 36-39 24- 25 building wooden skid, 28-29 L construction stages, 26 taxes and, 22 Large gable storage shed plan, 231 convenience shed Framing Lean-to tool bin building, 133-137 con nectors used, 27 building, 121-123 cutti ng list, 126 floors, 40-41 cutting list, 116
238 • T H E COM PL ETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORA IW 5HED S
drawings, 117-120 R Standard (STAND) lumber, 27 overview of, 114-115 Rafters, 47 Stick framing Lumber, 27 Rafter ties, 47 described, 40 Ramps tongue & groove siding and, 66-67 M building, 75-77 Storage shed, basic Metal anchors, 27 considerations, 74 building, 162-165 Metal kit sheds Roofs considerations, 154-155 anchoring, 211 fin ishing overhangs, 69 cutting list, 156 assembling, 206-211 framing, 46-51 drawings, 157- 161 considerations, 202, 204-205 installing fascia, 53-54 STUD lumber, 27 maintaining, 211 installing sheathing & building paper, 55 Sunlight and siting, 23 Metal roofing, 52, 60-61 installing vents, 58 Sunrooms, 18 Mini-barn storage shed plan, 233 knotty pine sheathing, 13 materials for, 52 T N overhangs, 11 Taxes, 22 Nailing techn iques, 40 styles, 47 Timber-frame shed Nail types, 40 Rubber washered nails & screws, 60 building, 187-191 Neighbors and shed siting, 22 considerations, 180-181 New England style, 16-17 S cutting list, 182 Notched-stringer stairs, building, 80-81 Saltbox storage shed drawings, 183- 186 ideas for, 12 Trim o plan, 230 considerations, 62 Overhead plan views, 25 “seaside” sheds, 14 installing, 68 Seasonal changes and siting, 23 Trusses, custom, 47 p Select Structural (SEL STR) lumber, 27 Patios, integrating sheds with, 11, 18 Service shed U pier foundations building, 198-201 uses,S,7 advantages, 32 considerations, 192 Utility lines and siting, 22 building concrete, 32-35 cutting list. 194 Utility (UTIL) grade lumber, 27 permanent structure classification drawings, 195- 197 and,22 Setback requirements and siting, 22 V Plans Shade vents, installing roof. 58 barn storage sheds, 230, greenhouses and, 101 232-233,234 overhangs for, 11 W deluxe cabana, 234 Sheathing Walls, fram ing, 42-45 gable storage shed, 231 installing on roofing, 55 Windows gable storage shed with cupola, 233 knotty pine, 13 box bay, 124 garden shed, 235 for roof decks, 180 clerestory, 86-87 large gable storage shed, 231 Shed anatomy, 26 Gothic, 166 mini-barn storage shed, 233 Shed roofs, described, 47 homemade, 73 playhouse, 232 Siding installing flash ing above, 73 working with, 24-25 considerations, 62 installing prehung, 70-71 workroom with covered porch, 235 installing horizontal, 63-64 installing trim, 68 yard barn with loft storage, 234 installing plywood, 65 sheltering with overhangs, 11 Plan views (drawings), 25 installing tongue & groove, 66-67 Wooden skid foundations Platforms, building, 82-83 trim and, 68 building, 28-29 Playhouses Sites, choosing, 22-23, 101 permanent structure classification building, 175- 179 Skid foundations and,22 considerations, 166- 167 building, 28-29 Wood kit sheds cutting list, 168 permanent structure classification building, 212-219 drawings, 169-174 and,22 considerations, 202-205 plan, 232 Slopes of roofs, 47 ideas for, 8, 10 Plywood Soil and Siting, 22 workroom with covered porch plan, 235 exterior grade, 27 Speed squares, 47 installing floors, 41 y Stages of construction, 26 installing siding, 65 Yard barn with loft storage plan, 234 Stainless steel hardware, 27 Prehung doors & wi ndows, installing, Stairs 70-72 Z building, 79-81 Pressure-treated lumber, 27, 42 zoning laws and Siting, 22 calculating size of step, 79 Primers, 27 considerations, 78 Privacy, 7 stepped platforms as, 83
Illdex • 239
CREATIVE PUBLISHING international
Complete Guide to Attics & Basements
i BIACK&DECKER
Complete Gu ide to Basic \Voodworj,;jng
Complete Gu ide to Bathrooms
Complete Gu ide Bu ild Your Kids a TreehoLlse
Complete Guide to Carpentry for Homeowners
Complete Gu ide to Ceramic & Stone Ti le
Complete Gu ide to Contemporary Sheds
Complete Gu ide to Creative La ndscapes
Complete Guide to Cus tom S helves & Built- Ins
Complete Guide to Decks
Complete Gu ide to Decorating v,"ith Ceramic Tile
ISBN 1-58923-305-0
Comp lete Gu ide to DIY Projects for Luxurious Living
Complete Guide to Dream Kitchens
Complete Gu ide to Finishing Wa lls & Ceil ings
Complete Gu ide to Floor Decor
Complete Gu ide to Gazebos & Arbors
Complete Guide to Horne Plumbing
Complete Guide to Home Wiring
Complete Gu ide to Landscape Construc tion
Complete Gu ide Maintain Your Pool & Spa
Complete Guide to .Masonry & Ston e\,vork
Complete Gu ide to Outdoor \lVooe! Projects
ISBN 1-58923-245-3
Complete Gu ide to Pain ting & Decorating
Complete Gu ide to Patios
Complete Guide to Roofing & Sid ing
Complete Gu ide to Trim & Finish Carpently
Complete Gu ide to \,Vindows & Doors
Complete Gu ide to \"food Storage Projects
Complete Outdoor Buil der
Complete Photo Guide to Home Repair
Complete Photo Gu ide to Home Improvement
ISBN 1-58923-287-9CNiIIIw P\jJIlshlng inll!mational
• 400 First Avenue North . SUite 300 • Minneapolis, MN 55401 • wwwcreatlvepub comRather have me do it?
I build sheds, playhouses, and backyard structures.