Carpentry & Woodworking
Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Custom Shelves & Built ins
Source: Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Custom Shelves & Built ins.pdf
Source file: Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Custom Shelves & Built ins.pdf
CUSTOM SHELVES &
-
Build Custom Add-ons toCreate a One-of-a-Kind Home
by Theresa Coleman
Creative Publishing
rnemational
CHANHASSE N, MINNESOTA
www.crcativepub.comNOTICE TO READERS For safety, use caution, care and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The Publisher and Black & Decker cannot assume responsibility for any damage to propenty or injury to persons as a result of misuse of the information provided. The techniques shown in this book are genera l techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions included with products, since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required: some may not be appropriate for al l do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help. Consult your local Building Department for information on building permits, codes and other laws as they apply to your project.
Copyright © 2007 President/CEO: Ken Fund Creative Publishing international, Inc. VP for Sales & Marketing: Peter Ackroyd 18705 Lake Drive East Chanhassen, Minnesota 55317 Home Improvement Group 1-800-328-3895 ‘WWVoJ.creativepub.com Publisher: Bryan Trandem All rights reserved Managing Editor: Tracy Stanley Senior Editor Mark Johanson Printed at R.R. Donnelley Editor: Jennifer Gehlhar 10987654321 Creative Director: Michele Lanci-Altomare Library of Congress Cataloging-in-publication Data Senior Design Manager: Brad Springer Design Managers: Jon Simpson, Mary Rohl Coleman, Theresa. The complete guide to custom shelves & built-ins: build custom add-ons to Director of Photography: Tim Himsel create a one-of-a-kind home / by Theresa Coleman. p,em. Lead Photographer: Steve Galvin At head of title: Black & Decker. Photo Coordinators: Julie Caruso, Joanne Wawra Summary: “More than 30 step-by-step projects to help homeowners Shop Managers.’ Randy Austin, Bryan McClain achieve custom built-ins that add function and style to any home decor”— Provided by publisher. Includes index. Production Managers: Laura Hokkanen, Linda Halls ISBN-13: 978-’ -58923-303-4 (soft cover) ISBN-10: 1-58923-303-4 (SoftCQver) Page Layout Artist: Danlelle Smith
- Built-in furniture. 2. Cabinetwork. 3. Shelving (Furniture) I. Title. II. Title: Black & Decker the complete guide to shelves & Photographer: Joel Schnell built-ins. Shop Help: Dan Anderson, Glenn Austin, Tami Helmer, John webb TI197.5.8SC592007 684.1’ 6—dc22
2007010500
The Complete Guide to Custom Shelves and Built-Ins Created by: The Editors of Creative Publishing international, Inc., in cooperation with Black & Decker. Black & Decker®is a trademark of The Black & Decker Corporation and is used under license.
Contents The Complete Guide to Custom Shelves & Built-Ins
Introduction … … . 4 Installing a Post-form countertop … 64 Shelving Projects … . . 180 portfolio of Built·1n Bu ilding a Custom Laminate Shelving Basics … . … 182 & Shelving projects …• … ..... 7 Countertop … … … … … 66 Modular Shelving … … 184 Creating wood Countertop Edges … 74 Techniques & Design . … . . 18 Installing Wire Shelving … . . 186 Built-In Projects . … . 78 Tools & Materials … … ...... .. 20 Formal Bookcase … … … . . 188 Window Seat … … … … … 80 Planning a Project … … . .... 30 Utility Shelves … … … … … 194 Bed surround … . … . • … . . 88 Jobsite Preparation … … … … . 34 Cube Shelves … … … … … . 198 Loft Bed … … … … … … 94 proiect Safety … … . .... 3S Closet Shelves … … … … 204 country Diner … … … … . 102 Cutting & Fitting Joints … … … .. 36 Joist Shelving … … … … . 206 wall Niche … . • … 11 2 Power Miter Saw Techn iques … . .. 37 Bin & Shelving Unit… … … … 210 Room Divider … … … … … … . 118 Trimwork Wa ll Shelves … … 214 Establishing Level, Plumb & square … 44 Laundry Center… … . • . · . . 128 Box Beam Shelves … … … … 222 Adding Doors … … … … … .. 46 Towel Tower … … … . · . . 136 Floor-to-Ceiling Shelves … … 228 Basic Drawers … … … … … . . 48 understairs project · .. 142 preparing for the Finish … 50 Resources .. … … … 234 Hobby Center … . … . • . · . . 150
Installing Cabinets … … … … S4 Bath Cabinet… … … … … . 1S6 Credits . … … 235
Creating a Kitchen Island … 60 Kneewall Cabinet … 162 Metric Conversions . … .. 236
Making Countertops … … … . .. 62 Club Bar … … … … … . 168 Index … ...... . 237
I
Introduction
e t read y to Aex yo ur ca rpe ntry m uscle~ a ndG im prove yo ur ho me w it h a little help from stock
and sem i ~stock cabinets.
Bui lt-ins a rc no longer just for kitchens . W ith
the range of availa ble ca bi net sizes, finishes, and
organization accessories avai lable in stock and sem i-
stock styles, combini ng ca binets a nd standard s heet
good s to create c ustom looks fo r yo ur favorite roo ms is
a reali stic optio n to b uying the pre- made s he lves cllld
h utc hes that everyo ne else in yo ur neig hbo rhood owns.
We designed the one-of-a-kind projects in t hi s
Comp le te Gu ide to live up to the essence of the
t itle- “com p le te”- wit hou t ma king the projects too
tough fo r weeke nd DlYe rs. The res ult: A var iety of fun
projects fo r va ri o us ski ll levels v,lith a range of desig n
styles fo r roo ms all over yo ur hOLise.
If yo u like th e look of slee k urban style, c hec k out
T he C lu b Bar (page 168) . Its s lick modular pa lette
is a to tal atte ntion gra bbe r that you m igh t fi nd in a n
avant-garde city hotel. T he classically appointed Formal
Bookcase (page 188 ), on the ot he r hand, is D IY-fri endly
project in spi red by traditi o na l hardwood libraries.
C has in g the brass ring of good desig n inspired
m o re th a n just a hip ~traditio n a l design ste’v. It begged
us to be min dful of the pe rmanence of th ese projec ts .
Sure, the projects a re fun to c rea te, but we too k th e
natu re of a built in serious ly. \A/hen yo u c rea te a
builtin o r a dd shelving, it becomes part of you r home,
part of your day-to-day rea lity- whet he r your bui lt- in
is used to sto re laun dry dete rge nt, display c heris he d
me me ntos, or cu rl up w ith <1 f<1vorite book.
We c rafted projects that YO LI can build. projects
w it h rock-sol id, real-vwrld assembl y an d fa bricatio n
tech n iques. And, si nce ma ny of th e designs incl ude
sem i ~s tock cab ine ts, the ca rpe ntry skill s needed a ren’t
• 5furniture gr<:lde. Personally, I like to think of this gu ide You’ll <:Ilso Ilnd super she lves, fu n furn iture, and CI S t he carpentry equ ivalent of using a cake mix: You spacious sto r<:lge projects for kid’s room s, bath rooms, still have to add a fe\’ of your ovm ingredients, but you and utility spaces that ca n meet your needs today and get to skip a few steps ,v ith the pre~made mix. grow ,vith yo u a nd yo ur family. While yo u need the proper tools to comb ine all In th e e nd, we hope that we’ve c rea ted a book th at of th e pieces, yo u don ‘t need a professional workshop, Iives up to its name- not so mu ch on these pages, but <:IS man y of them comb ine pre-made cabinets v” ith on - in your home and in you r life. s ite carpent’Y that ra nges from simple to intermediate If yo u aren’t inspired to c reate th at one-of-a-kind skill leve ls. perfect-fit look fo r your house after flippin g through Some projects call for so me fan cy fabri ca tion like th e des igns ,ve’ve in cluded in the Complete Guide the Country Diner (page 102 ) or the C lub Bar. Others , to Shelves & Built-Ins, yo u arc miss ing out on an li ke the -lobby Center (page 150 ), Lau ndry Center opportunity fo r maximizing the “\t\1ow” from yo ur (page 128), and Window Seat (page 80) are tied friends and fami ly. togeth e r with un ique site-bui lt details that integrate !Ve hope you have as much fun building these the built-in into your space. projects as we did building t hi s book. For a different mix of skills needed, c heck out the Trim Molding She lves (page 214) and the Loft Bed Theresa Coleman (page 94). Eac h of t hese projects com bines ro ugh and fini sh ca rpe nt ‘Y to create two totally c ustom built-ins.
6 • TH E COMPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
I Portfolio of Built-In & Shelving Projects
Built-ins add character and charm
to any space. While built-ins can be
purely functional, they can also be
decorative (as shown to the left) or
combine functionality with a showcase
element (as shown above). The type of
built-in that works best for you and your
home depends on your style and how
you enJoy showing off prized treasures.
PortJolio of Rlli/t-11l & SIJeI!lillg Projects • 7
Built-ins are more than just simple
shelves and wall cabinets. Whether
you are building a cozy kitchen nook
(left), an underbed platform (below) or
a storage cabinet that custom-fits your
bathroom floorplan (right)' unique little
extras like drawers and cubbies in one-
of-a-kind built-in furniture can maximize
storage options for every type of space.
~
I~,.J
-8 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
PortJolio of Rlli/t-11l & SIJeI!lillg Projects • 9
10 • TH E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Bookshelves are one of the most popular types of built-in projects. Bookshelves don’t have to just be showcased prominently in a formal living room, they also fit perfectly- and dramatically maximize smaller homes’ storage potential- along hallways (opposite page). Built-in storage also can act as a visual room divider in larger spaces, creating the opportunity to display keepsakes that can be viewed from both rooms, and giving homeowners additional nooks to stow other items away (left). Even the smallest, simplest of shelves can greatly increase the amount of usable space (below) and add visual impact.
PortJolio of Rlli/t-11l & SIJeI!lillg Projects • 11
Built-in projects aren't just for
traditionalists. In the built-ins category
you will fi nd countless perfect projects and
stock products that match the modern
style of many of today's homes. A uniquely
shaped room can benefit from a custom
built-in couch that maximizes the space
inside the frame. Drawers keep throw
blankets handy for colder days, and games
ready for guests. A kitchen with a view is
a perfect spot to integrate an eating area
without interrupting the floorplan or flow
of the space. And for th e home office,
there are many cabinets that offer semi-
stock accessories, from file drawers and
CD organizers to pull-out writing trays and
office supply organization trays (right).12 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
PortJolio of Rlli/t-11l & SIJeI!lillg Projects • 13
14 • TH E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
The bathroom (opposite page) is a smaller space in most homes, and really benefits from some custom built-in organization. Optimizing the space with a built-in cabinet outfitted with upgraded organization accessories can help keep all of those little bottles and grooming supplies much more easily managed.
Sports equipment, shoes, and coats are typically among the top clutter culprits in most houses. By creating a coat cubby or locker-room-styled organization (below) near the most-used entryway, you’ll create a greater chance that those items might be put away. For kids’ rooms, take advantage of the whimsy of color and style when decorating custom built-ins, and take the opportunity to maximize the storage possibilities (left).
PortJolio of Rlli/t-11l & SIJeI!lillg Projects • 15
Awkward spaces, nooks and crannies
don't offer much utility to the homeowner,
but when improved with a clever built-in
or shelving project, the space can become
a real asset for your home. Understairs
areas are prime examples of unused
space that can be exploited with a built-in,
as with this understairs wine rack (right).
If your idea of built-ins is simply
cabinet installations in a kitchen or a
bathroom, there are many styles, finishes,
and colors available. Cabinet-makers are
offering detailing options- moldings, wine
racks, spice racks, and pull-out trays, for
example- that help you create the exact
look and performance you desire (below).
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r [J16 • TH E COMP LETE GU IDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
PortJolio of Rlli/t-11l & SIJeI!lillg Projects • 17
I Tools & Materials LAYOUT TOOLS B uildin g she lves a nd built-ins is a c halle ngi ng job thal requ ires patience, atte nt io n to deta il , and th e ri ght tool for eac h task. \rVith out th ese basic Layou t tools help yo u measure, mar k, a nd set-up perfect c uts w ith accuracy. Man y layo ut tools are require me nts , YO ll arc sett ing yourself lip for pote nti al inexpe n sive and simply provide a mea ns of measu rin g failure a nd th e res ult wi ll suffe r. for level, sq uare , a nd plumb lines. However, rece nt Sta rt off ri ght by us ing hi gh-q uality tools. Good tec hno logies have inco rporated lase rs into levels, too ls la st longe r an d a rc ge ne ra ll y morc acc u rate t han stud find e rs , an d tape meas ures, mak ing th e m more less expensive ve rsions. aCC lIrate than ever before but, a t a s lightl y highe r M a ny people buy tools on ly as th ey a re needed price. Although th ese new too ls a re ha nd y in spec ifi c to avo id purc hases th ey will not use. T hi s ra ti o nale a ppli ca ti ons, their hi ghe r p ri ce is not always wa rranted sho uld only app ly to power tools and hi gher- priced for th e do- it-yo urselfer. specia lty items. A hi gh-qu ality bas ic too l se t is importan t for every dO- it-yo urselfer to have on ha nd . • A t a pe measure is o ne of t he most commo n tools DOing so avo ids im proper tool usage a nd ma kes your a round. The odd s a re good tha t you a lready own job easie r, with im proved res ults. a t leas t one. (If yo u a rc making frequent trips for The hand tools yo u will need fo r mos t fin ish building suppli es, in vest in a second ta pe th at ca rpentry jobs can be broke n down into two type s: stays in your car. ) Carpenlry projects req uire a layou t tool s a nd co nstru c tion too ls . It is co mm on for sturd y tape m eas u re with a length grea ter tha n most people to ow n co nstruction too ls, bu t to lac k yo ur longest stock. A 2S-ft . tape meas ure has a necessa ry layo ut tools for basic carpent!)’ jobs. w ider a nd thicke r readin g su rface t han a 16-ft. Purc hase th e highes t-qual ity layout too ls yo u va ri e ty, but e ithe r is adeq ua te fo r mos t ca rpe nt!)’ ca n afford. They are c ru cial fo r hdp ing jobs . If you ca n’t te ll th e diffe rence be tween yo u avo id cos tly meas uring and the sma lle r lines o n a sta nda rd tape, marking mi sta kes. co nside r purc has ing a n “Easy Head” v<Jrie ty. It is importa nt to read th e tape acc ura tel y.
"Easy Read"
tape measure
Combination
Levels
square20 • T H E COM PL ETE CUIf)E TO C USTOM SHELVES & BUILT·INS
Framing square• A framing square, a lso knO\vn as a carpenter’s
sq uare, is commonl y used to mark s heet goods
ctnd c heck recen tl y insta lled pieces for position . Stud finder!
Frami ng squares are also used CIS Cl n initial laser level
check for wa ll sq uareness an d pl umb in
relation to a fl oor o r ceiling.
• C halk lines are used to make te mporary straight
lines anywhe re one is needed. T he case of a
chal k line, or the “box,” is tea rdrop shaped so that
th e tool doubl es as a plumb bob. Use a c hal k line
to mark sheet good s for cutt ing or to esta blish CI
level li ne in a room. Keep in mind that chalk can
be difll cult to re move from poro us su rfClces.
• A stud finder is used to locate t he fra ming
me mbers in a .va ll or ce iling. Hi gh erpri ce d
vers ion s a lso locatc plumbing, elcc trica l, or
other mcchan ica ls in t he wa ll. Alt hough stud
Ilnders are not complete ly necessary, they are
convenient for larger jobs.
• Levels are ava ibble in a vari ety of le ngths Cl nd
price ranges. The longer a nd more accurate t he
level, the highe r th e price. The t\·vo most commonly
used sizes are 2-ft. and 4Ft. lengths. 2ft. levels
are handy for tighter spaces, while the 4-ft . variety
serves as a better all-pu rpose level. Laser levels
are handy for creating a level line around the
perim eter of a roo m or for level lines alo ng longe r
lengths. They provide a wide range of line or spot
placeme nt, depending on the model.
• A T-bevel is a spec ia li zed tool for find ing
and transfe rri ng precise angles. T beve l s
are ge ne rall y used in conj un cti on with
a pmve r miter saw to gauge ang led
miters of nonsquare co rn e rs. T hi s
tool is espec iall y handy in older homes
where t he ori ginal states of squa re,
plumb , an d level may no lo nge r appl y.
• A profile gauge uses a se ries of pins to recreate
th e profi le of any object so t hat you may
tran sfer it to a wo rk piece. Prollie gauges
are especia ll y useful when dealing -vith
irregular obstructions.
• A combination square is a mu ltifunctio n Profile gauge
sq uare that provides Cln easy refe rence for 45
an d 90-degree ang les, as .vell as marki ng revea l
lines or a constant spec illc di stance from t he edge
of a work piece.
Tools & Materials • 21CONSTRUCTION TOOLS Pne um at ic brad nui ls a nd sma ll e r pi ns will pull • A good qua lity hamme r is a must fo r every o ut eas ier wit h s ide cutters. P urc hase u nu il set fo r ca rpe nt ry project. A \6-oz. cu rved claw hammer, co un te rsin ki ng nail heads. T hree- p iece sets a re ot herwise known as a fi nis h hammer, is a good availab le for di fferent na il sizes. a ll -purpose c hoice. Some people prefer a large r • A ra sp and metal file s e t is important fo r fitt ing straight clelw ha mm er for heavy tear-dow n projects coped joints prec ise ly. The va ri ety of s hapes, an d ro ugh fram ing, bu t t hese hammers <:I re too sizes, and mi lls a llow fo r fas te r ro ugh removal of clumsy a nd heavy for dr iving s ma ller cas ing a nd mater ia l, or smoother slow re moval, depend ing on finis h nails, an d te n d to mar the su rface of t rim . t he fi le. • Utility kni ves are available in fixed, re tract ing, • Use a putty knife to fi ll na il ho les wi th wood an d re t rac table blades. T hi s tool is used fo r a wide fi ller and fo r light sCfuping t<Jsks. varie ty of cutting tasks fro m pe nci l s harpen ing to back -beveling mi ter jo in ts. Always have add it ional blades read ily ava ila b le. Fo ld ing fixed-blade ut ility kni ves offe r th e durab il ity an d strengt h of a fixed blade with the protection of a fo lding ha ndle. • A set of’ chisels is necessa ry fo r in sta lli ng door ha rdware as we ll as notching tri m aroun d obstacles an d final fitting o f d ifficult pieces. Keep a set o nly fo r lise w it h wood , <:I nd do no t s u bst itu te the m for screwd rive rs. • Block planes a re used to fi t doors into ope ni ngs an d re move fi ne a moun ts of materia l fro m trim. A finely tu ned bl ock p la ne ca n even be used to clean up a sloppy mite r join t. • A coping saw has a thin , fl exib le blade designed to cut curves a nd is essential for maki ng professiona l trim jo in ts on inside corners. Copi ng saw blad es shou ld be fine too thed , betwee n 16 an d 24 teet h per in ch for most hardv,roods, and set to c ut o n the pull stro ke of the S3’V to offer you more blade contro l. • A sha rp h a ndsaw is convenient for qu ick cu t- offs an d in some in stances w’he re power saws are difficu lt to co ntrol. Purchase a crosscut S3\V for general-purpose cutti ng. • Protec tive wear, incl ud ing safety gb sses and ea r protection, is requ ired any t ime yo u are worki ng wit h tools. Dust mas ks are necessary vvhe n sanding, doing de molition , or whe n worki ng around fum es . • Pry bars co me in a va ri e ty of sizes a nd shapes. A qual ity forged high-ca rbo n stecl fl a t ba r is t he most com mon c hoice. Wrecking bars make ligh ter wor k of trim a nd doo r removal d ue to thei r added we igh t. No ma tter what type of pry bar yo u use, protec t finis hed su rfaces from scra tches wit h a b lock of wood vv hen removing trim. • Side cutte rs and e nd nippe r s are use fu l for cutting off a nd pu ll ing out bent na ils. The added ha nd le lengt h and curved hea d of a n en d n ippers makes them idea l for larger cas ing nails.
22 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
• Irl , SANDVIK ” ’ r. i ~ "".~~~~1…)
Handsaw•• IRWIN
Tools & N/nterials • 23
•
Circular saw
Compound power
miter saw
Jig saw
Reciprocating Cordless drill
sawI Power Tools Despite th e hi ghe r price as compared to hand tools, • A cordless drill is one of th e hand iest too ls power tool s a re a gre at va lue. T hey al low you to -\lork availab le. Al though drill s a re not normall y used more quickly a nd accura te ly than w ith hand tools to in sta ll trim , they make quick wo rk of insta lling <:Ind ma ke repet it ive tasks like sa ndi ng, drilling, and st ructural compone nt s. OccaSio na ll y, trim -head smving more enjoya ble. Basic home ca rpe ntIY does not scre\vs are used to in stJ Il trim , rath e r than na ils o r req uire eve ry power tool show n here, but so me too ls, regul ar wood sc rews . sllc h as a powe r mite r box, a re c ru c ia l for profess iona l • A circular saw is ideal for stra ight c uts in pl)‘\vood res ults. Purchase powe r too ls on an as ~n eeded basi s, and qui c k c ut-offs of solid ma te ria l. Purchase a keepin g in m ind that .v hil c th e cheapes t too l is not plywood blade to make smooth cu ts in pl ywood , always you r best option, the most expensive and and a gene ral -purpose blade for other c uts. powerful is probabl y not necessary, e ithe r. C hea per • A jig saw is th e perfect tool for cu tting curves, tool s gene ra ll y sacrifice p rec is ion, whil e the mos t or notc hin g out trim around obstructions. Ji g saw ex pe nsive tools are made for people who lise them blades co me in a n array of deS igns for diffe re nt every day, not just occaSionall y. styles of c ut s and di ffere nt ty pes a nd thi cknesses of materi als . Always lise th e ri ght type of blade and do no t force the Sa\V during th e c ut: or it may bend or break.
24 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Router Random orbit
sander
Biscuit joiner
Finish
planer sander
Table saw
Belt sander• A biscuit joiner (also ca ll ed a plate joiner) is Ran dom-orbit sanders leave no circular ma rki ngs, a spec ialty tool used for alig nme nt and to make like a di sc sa nder, and can sand in any direction strong joints between t\vo squa re pieces of stock. rega rdl ess of wood gra in . • A reciprocating saw is used for remova l <:Ind • Finish sanders are ava ilable in a variety of tea r-down applications. This too l is es pec ia ll y sizes a nd shapes for different light sandin g handy for re moving doo r jambs. applications. • A power miter saw, or chop saw, wi ll yield • A power planer is lIsed to trim doors to fit professio na l resul ts. Most have a 10” or 12” openi ngs and fl atten or straighten ou t mate ri als. diameter blade. A compou nd power mite r saw has Power planers arc faster to use th a n ma nual a head that pivots to cut both bevels and miters. hand planes, but th e resu lts arc more difn eult to Sl idi ng miter sa\vs have more cuttin g capac ity but contro l. are less porta bl e. A nne-tooth carbide-tipped blade • A table saw is the best tool for ripping stock is best fo r built-in an d shelving projects. to width, and larger mode ls ca n be fitted with a • A belt sander is not essent ial but is a handy tool molding head for cutting profiles. for quick removal of materi al. • A router (plunge router is shown he re) has many • Random-orbit sanders are a good cho ice for uses in trim carpe nt ry, es pec iall y for cutt ing edge smoothing Aat areas, such as plyv,lOod, quickly. profi les to make your own custom \vorkpieces.
Tools & N/nterials • 25I Pneumatic Tools Pneu mat ic too ls ca n be a key to tim ely, profess iona l and the na ils are pos itione d at least } ‘I fro m trim carpent ry results. They save time an d ene rgy over e nd s . Na il gun s a lso allmv YO LI to co ncen t rate on t he traditi o na l ham me r- an cl-na il install a ti on. No t onl y do placement of th e \vork pi ece with one han d an d they drive fastene rs quic kl y, bu t they counte rsin k at fas ten it w ith th e ot he r. You needn’t fumbl e around th e sa me time, avoiding mu ltipl e strike s to trim , which \vith single faste ne rs beca use th ey are al ready loaded could thrmv jo in ts out of a li gn ment. Predrill ed ho les in the gun . are not necessary ,vith pneumatic too ls. Sp litti ng is T he costs of pne uma tic too ls, compresso rs, and infrequen t if th e wo rk piece is he ld firml y in place fas te ne rs has dec reased over th e yea rs, ma kin g t he m not on ly th e professiona l’s c hoice, but a grea t option for the do -it-yourselfe r as wel l. Pneuma tic kits a re ava ilab le at home ce nte rs with two diffe re nt gun s an d a compressor at a value price. For sma ll or in frequent jobs, cons ide r ren ting pneu matics. Porta ble com presso rs are ava ilab le in differe nt styles, including pancake ,md hot -dog styles . Any co mpressor w ith a ir press ure capa bility of 90 ps i or grea ter w ill dri ve a fini sh o r brad nail e r. Consider options like tank size, vve ight of th e unit, a nd no ise leve ls whil e the co mpressor is running. Ta lk to a home ce nte r spec ia list about w ha t yo ur spec ifi c com presso r needs are a nd keep in mind any future pn euma ti c too ls yo u might want. The t’vo bas ic pne umati c too ls used in c<:l rpen try are a fini sh nailer, and a brad nail e r. A finish na iler drives IS-ga uge na il s ranging from I II to 2Ih ”. These Brad nai ls wo rk for a va ri e ty of moldings, door an d windO,v nailer trim, and general-purpose fasten in g. Angled finis h n<:l ilers are easie r to m<:l ne uver in tight corners th an st ra igh t guns, but e ithe r o ptio n will wo rk. Brad na ile rs drive sma ller IS-ga uge faste ne rs rangin g in length from Ih ” to 211 . Some bra d nailers ’ max imu m length is Stapler I I//, . Becau se t he faste ne rs are sma ller, it is no surpri se that th e gun is lig hter and s ma ller than a fini sh gu n. Brad nailers a re used to attach th in ner stock, wit h less tendenc y to split the wood . Headl ess p in ners drive fasteners si mila r to brad nails, but without th e head. Pin T hese nai ls h<:lve less holding po,v er, but are normall y nailer used to hold sma ll moldin gs in p lace until the glue Angled dri es. Be Sllre to load headl ess pins with th e poin ts finish down , taking note of th e label on th e nailer magaz ine. %,11 c rown stap lers a re used to attac h t hin panels and in situat ions w he re maxim um holding pO\ve r is needed, but the fastener head will not be vis ible. Because stapl es have two legs an d a crown th<:lt co nn ec ts the m , the ir ho ldin g powe r is excelle nt. Howeve r, the ho le left by the sta ple’s crow n is la rge and ca n be diffi c ult to co nceal.
26 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUlLT-l NS
18 ga o x 1114" brads
15 gao x 2W' finish nails
1 1/4" X 3/4" narrow crown staples
15 gao x 2" finish nails
3/8" X 1" narrow crown staples
18 gao x 1W' brads
18 gao x 5/8" brads
3/8 " x 1 ' 12" narrow crown staplesI Pneumatic Fasteners IS -gauge angle d finish nai ls and regu lar fini sh na ils 1 8~gauge brad na ils ra nge in length up to 2” for range in le ngt h up to 2112”. The angled variety are some guns a nd leave s ma lle r hol es to Ill! than Ilnis h exactl y the same as the st r<:tight n<:t ils, b ut co me in gun s. Brad n<:t ils a re co mm on ly used fo r thinn e r a ngle d clips. These na ils a re m ade fro m ga lva nized casin gs that a re na ile d direc tly to a solid backer. A wire, so t hey a re suita ble for ex terior a pplica tion s . Use spec illc exa mpl e of thi s is a long th e inne r e dge of a fini sh na ils to attac h larger mold in gs a nd trim casings. door or wind mv cas in g. The ou ter e dge of th e trim is Dri ve fasteners at regu lar intervals a lon g th e moldin gs nailed with a llnis h gun throu gh th e wa ll board, whi le and kee p the posi tion of the na il s at leas t 1” from th e the inside edge re sts aga inst th e door jam b, so it ca n molding e nds . Faste ne r lengt h is de pe nden t upon the be fas te ne d with a brad nail e r. Headl ess pins leave size of workpi ece installed. Typical stock moldin gs and a lmost no nail hole to fill but a re li m ited in lengt h dimen s ional lumbe r is %” thick. ‘vVhe n installing buil t ~ to I ”. The ir holding pov.re r is gre<:t tly dimini she d due ins, the fastene r must pass through the moldin g a nd to th e lac k of head, but th ey a rc genera lly used in wa llboa rd a nd into the stud behind. Genera ll y, half th e co njunct io n .v it h wood glue . W’ c rovvn sta ples are used fastener should be e mbe dde d in the backing or stud, on ly when the fastene r head will not be visi ble. so in most app lications, 2” fasteners should sufllce.
Tools & N/nteria ls • 27I Sheet Goods There “re man y differen t types of plywood fo r a wide a rray of uses. For built· in an d shelf projects, finish· grade or paint·grade plywood is com monly used . Each type is made up of thinly sliced laye rs ca ll ed plies. T hese layers arc made of sol id hard wood, softwood, or wood products. The more plies a sheet good has, the stronger it \vill be. This is only true for veneer- based plies. Med ium density fiberboard, or MOF, is made of wood fibers that have been gl ued an d pressed together. T hese panels a rc extremely sta ble and rarely shrink, expan d, or warp . Plywood thick nesses range from I/S II to 1”. Many species of wood are avai lable for t he outer plywood veneers. T herefore , the core, or inner plies, give the panel its st ru ctural characterist ics. 3/4” or 2313/ AC plywood has a finish-grade face on one side a nd a utility grad e o n th e other. Standard AC pl yv.rood is made of seven plies of soft\·vood , sllc h as spruce or pine. Th is plywood is a good choice for paint-grade moldings. 3// ha rd wood veneer plywood is availab le in red oak, maple, and birch at most home ce nters. Its in ner core is basically the same as AC plywood, but it has a hardwood outer face. 3(,” M OF oak ve nee r plywood is made up of three layers: two outer o<:lk ve neers and a solid core made of i\ lIO F. This plyv.rood tends to be less expens ive than a veneer core product an d has a smoothe r face , but is heavy, less durable, and docs not hold faste ne rs as wel l. IVIOF is aV<:Iilable -v ith o r without an outer veneer. WI Baltic birch plywood is m<:lde up of thirteen plies, m aking it more dim e nsio nally stabl e than regular ve nee r core pl)‘\vood. This panel is comm on ly used in Modern-style trim a nd ca n be painted or stained . Lumber-core ply,.vood has strips of so lid wood edge- glued betvveen outer veneer plies. Med ium density overlay, or Nl DO, pl)~vood has a solid wood veneer core v·,Iith a n M O F face. This panel e liminates the ‘\reight of a MOF pa ne l and ha s the fastening stre ngth of” solid veneer core. The M O P face is perfect for paint-grade applications. Wainscoting paneling is available in several thicknesses from 3/ 16” to 5fs”.
I Lumber Solid hard vvood is ava ilab le at most home centers in va ryi ng w idths. Species va ry, depend ing on your locatio n. T hese boards make good so lid stoc k mate rial to co mbine w ith or mi ll into new trim moldings because they arc already planed to a uniform thickness. If yo u can’t find th e type of lumber you need at a horne cente r, chec k v,lith a lurn bel)‘ard or a smal l cab inet shop in you r area. For larger runs wi th a uniform thick ness, ma ny cabinet shops \·vi ll cha rge a nomina l nat fc c to plane th e boards for you. They may even be w illing to order the material for yo u throu gh a loca l distributor.
Tip ~
Whenever possible, do a quick inspection of each
board before you purchase it. Because hardwood
lumber is often stained, carefully take note of
cosmetic flaws such as splits, knots, checks, and
wanes. These issues can sometimes be cut around,
but once the finish is applied, the imperfection will
show through . Lumber that is twisted, cupped, or
crooked should not be used at full length. If a board
is slightly bowed, you can probably flatten it out as
you nail it. In any case, always choose the straightest,
flattest lumber you can fi nd.
Pine
Tools & Mnt erials • 29I Planning a Proiect ith any of the built-in and shelf projects found To e nsure a profess iona l look an d fUll ctionaiu se, W in thi s book, you ca n eit her build the project as plan your built-ins so th ey fa ll withi n the standard shown, or adapt the des ign to fit yo ur unique space range o f sizes ll sed by c<:I bin et makers <Jnd furniture and needs. To build th e projec t as shown, fo ll ow the man ufacture rs ( pa ge opposi te.) measureme nts in th e parts ta ble that accom panies vVhet her YOLI are adaptin g a project or following each project. Sma ll wi dth an d he ight adjustm e nts ca n a des ign as shown, it is safer to measure and cut th e be made using th e fitting tips on page 32. pi eces as you assem bl e the built-in in its location, vVhcn adapt ing a built- in des ign, it is vc ry ra th er than to prec ut all pieces in advance. Small importa nt to make accurate pl an drawings on graph discrepancies in marldng, cutting, and assem bl y paper to show hmv the project wi lt fit in you r space. techniques ca n lead to costly errors if you precut T hese drawings let yo u orga ni ze yo ur wo rk <:I nd fi nd all the pi eces. approxima te measu rements for parts; they also make it easier to estim ate the cost of materials .
............... ... '>oe
--~ ~:;",:I!>IlJiiT. 'S.lr ...
-28'·-Make accurate scaled drawings on graph paper when adapting one of the built-in projects featured in this book. use a Simple scale, like 1 square = 1”, to draw a side, top, and one or more front views of your project. For a complicated project, draw several front views showing the basic walls (carcase) of the built-in, the face frame construction, and the finished project including drawers and doors. Side views and top views should show all trim pieces and moldings. Make sure to use the actual measurements of sheet goods and dimension lumber when making your drawings.
30 • T H E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
STANDARD BUILT-IN MEASUREMENTS Highest shelf shou ld be no more th an 80” above the fl oo r to be w ithin casy reac h.
Shelves sho uld be at leas t 10” deep in bookcases, and 12” deep in han ging wall cab inets. Space th e shelves so the re is at least 1/2” of ope n space above t he ite m s yo u are sto ring.
First shelf in a wa ll -hung bu ilt-in should be a t leas t 18” above a co untertop.
Work-surface height varies dependin g on how the su rface is used. Place th e surface 28” to 30 ” a bove t he Aoar for a typi ng desk or sewing \vo rk center. Place th e countertop at 36 11 fo r sta ndard kitchen c<:tbinets, at 44 ” for a dry bar or ca ting cou nte r, or at 34 ” for accessible roo ms .
Standard seating surfaces , like vvindmv seClt s un d 11 desk c huirs, are between 16” a nd 20 hi gh.
Base cabinet depth varies from 15” fo r a room di vide r to 30” for ca bine ts th at suppo rt a des k surface. Sta nd a rd kitc hen -s tyle fl oor ca binets u suall y a rc 24” or 25” in depth.
Access space in front of a b u il t- in s hou ld be at leas t 36” to provide kn eeling space for open ing drawe rs an d ca binet doors.
Drawer sizes ra nge fro m a minimum of 3” hi gh , 8” wide, a nd 8” dee p ; to a m ax imu m of 10” high, 36” wide, a nd 30 ” deep . Large drawe rs, mo re than 24” wide, shou ld be equip ped wit h two drawe r s lides for sta bili ty.
P/mlllil1g (j Project • 31
Tips for Planning and Fitting Built-Ins ~
CeilIng jOist
Ceiling
J
Top plates
Floor JOist
Make small width adjustments (up to 6" on each side) Make small height adjustments by changing the
with hardwood strips measured and cut to fill the extra thickness of the sale plates or top plates that anchor the
space. Attach the strips to the edges of the face frame built-in to the floor and ceiling. The floor-to-ceiling projects
with counterbored wood screws. These "filler strips" let in this book are designed to fit rooms with 8·ft. ceilings.
you slightly enlarge a project without making changes If your room height differs slightly, adjusting the sale
to the basic design. Filler strips also can be scribed to fit plates or top plates lets you adapt a project without major
uneven walls. design changes.
Nominal size Actual size
1x 2 3/4" X 1112"
1x 3 314" X 2112"
1x4 3f4" x 3112"
1x6 3/4" x 5112"
1x 8 3/4" X 7114"
2x4 1112" x 31/2"
2x6 1112" x 5 112"
2x8 1112" x 7114"
2 x 10 1112" X 9114"
Measure spaces carefully. Floors, Measure your materials. Actual Use actual measurements,
walls, and ceilings are not always thickness for plywood can vary from not nominal measurements, of
level or plumb, so measure at several the listed nominal size; ¥," plywood, dimension lumber when planning
paints. If measurements vary from for example, can vary in thickness by a built-in. The table above shows
point-to-point, use the shortest nearly 'k" . the actual dimensions of common
measurement to determine the lumber.
height or width of your built-in.32 • T H E COMPLETE GUIDE TO C USTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Amount Cost for Total
Materials needed each cost
Plywood (4 ft. x 8 ft.)
V4" sheets
1/2" sheets
¥," sheets
Lumber
1 x 2 boards
1 x 3 boards
1 x 4 boards
1 x 6 boards
1 x 8 boards
2 x 4S
Moldings
Door-edge
Shelf-edge
Base shoe
Baseboard
Crown/coveRevise the listed measurements of a featured project, Ornamental if necessary, and record them. use your scaled drawings as Hardware a guide for estimating the revised measurements. Always double-check measurements before cutting pieces to prevent Finish nails costly cutting errors. Power-drive screws Angle brackets Countertop brackets Drawer Slides Hinges Door latches Pulls/knobs Other materials Wood glue Oil/stain Sanding sealer Paint Outlet stri ps Grommets Light fixtu res
Total cost:Make cutting diagrams to help you make efficient use of Make a list of materials, using your plan drawings and materials. Make scale drawings of sheet goods on graph paper, cutting diagrams as a guide. Photocopy this materials list, and and sketch cutting lines for each part of your project When use it to organize your work and estimate costs. laying out cutting lines, remem ber that the cutting path (kerf) of a saw blade usually consumes ’/,’ of wood.
P/mlllil1g (j Project • 33I Jobsite Preparation het her you are insta lling an elabora te, custom Keep t he wor k area clean a nd organ ized . A W buil t-in or a sim ple she lf, preparing the jobsite dedicated tool ta ble for staging your tools is a great is a n importa nt ste p of yo u r project. Remove furniture organizational a id. Too l tab les also make it poss ib le to and ot her objects from the rooms YOLI \v ill be wodu ng co nve ni e nt ly keep tools fro m d isappearing. If you only in so that YOLI \ov on’t worry about getting smvd ust o n use t he tools t ha t you need a nd set them o n the tool a ni ce u pho lstered cha ir, or accide n ta ll y damaging tab le ,v he n you are n’t usi ng t he m , tools stay off the an antique furnish ing. Cover any items you ca nn ot Aoor and ou t of other rooms. Ad d a set of c lam ps to remove w it h plastic s heetin g. You may a lso want to the tab le and you have a convenie nt space fo r fin e- cover fln ished floo rs wit h cardboa rd or plastic as \vell, tu ning t he fit of eac h piece. to protect t he m fro m scratc hes or just to make clean- li p easier. Set li p too ls sli c h as a power mi ter saw at a central wor ks tatio n, to avoid walk ing lo ng d istances between where yo u a re insta lling an d where YOLI are cutti ng mater ia l. This ce ntral locatio n is key to profess io na l resul ts because measure me nts a re easier to remember a nd qu ick trimmi ng is possible wit hout t he added t ime of ex iting and entering t he house. Make sure the work area is we ll li t. I f you don’t <:Ilready ow n one, pu rchase a porta ble light (t rou ble light) to ma ke vie\vi ng the workp ieces e<:ls ie r. Kee p your Organize your tools and avoid wearing a bulky work belt by tools s ha rp a nd c lea n. Acc ide nts a re more like ly ,vhe n setting up a dedicated tool table where all of your project tools blades are d ull an d tools are cove re d in d ust a nd di rt. and materials can be staged.
I
L~ -In some built-in or shelving projects, the most efficient way to accomplish the work is to convert the insta llation room into a temporary workshop.
34 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
I Proiect Safety P ersonal safety shou ld be a priority when working on any project. Power tools and hand tools ca n cause serio LI S injuries that require immediate eac h wo rk sess ion, sweep up dust and any leftover fasteners, and collect scraps of c ut-off trim in a work bucket. These sc raps may come in handy before the attention. Be prepared for such situa tio ns \vith a e nd of the project, so keep the m around until you are properly stocked first aid kit. Equ ip you r kit with a finis hed. variety of bandage s izes and ot her necessary items Mainta in safety throughout your project, and such as ant isepti c wipes, cotton swabs, twee ze rs, remember that being safe is a prio ri ty. Everyone needs sterile gauze, and a first aid handbook. to use ear protec tion when operating loud tools. If To help you avoid using the nrst aid kit, read the yo u don’t, yo u wi ll lose you r hearing. People don ‘t owner’s manuals of all power tools before operating just get used to loud no ise. They lose their hearing them, and fo llO\v all outli ned precautions. Protect and the noise doesn’t seem as loud. The concept t hat yo urself with sCifety glasses, eur protect ion, and dust safety applies to everyone but yo u is fool ish. Take the masks a nd resp irators when necessury. necessaI)’ precautions to prevent injury to yo urself and Keep your wo rk enviro n ment clea n and free of those aroun d yo u. clutter. C lean you r tools and put th em away after
Always wear safety glasses and ear protection when Read the owner’s manual before operating any power tool. operating power tools. Use dust masks when necessary, and Your tools may differ in many ways from those described in protect yourself from chemicals with a respirator. Work gloves this book, so it’s best to familiarize yourself with the features save your hands when moving or handling large amounts of and capabilities of the tools you own. Always wear eye and material. Knee pads are useful when working on floor-level ear protection when operating a power tool. wear a dust mask projects such as baseboard. when the project will produce dust.
Projec t Safety • 35I Cutting & Fitting Joints C utti ng an d fittin g joints is a skill t ha t requ ires patience, know le dge, and wel l-mainta ine d eq uipment to achieve effec ti ve res ults . There a f C a lise of a bi scu it jointer or a pocket ho le jig. These arc specia lty too ls designed for join in g wood. Cu ttin g and fitting joints durin g insta lla tion few basic joints th at are genera ll y used for most can be very frustrat ing, es peciall y w hen it in vo lves carpe nt ry applications: butt, inside and outside mite r, difficu lt wal ls that are not plumb and corners th at scarf, a nd coped joints. are out of square. TClke th e time to read t hrough th e Although c Ll ttingjoints acc urately is the key proper tec hni q ues of using a mite r smv, as we ll CIS the fun c tion of a pm,ve r mite r saw, it is not th e onl y tool co rrect met hod for cu tting eac h ind ividua l jo int. These necessary for quality joine ry. Coped joints requ ire a techniq ues a re desc ri bed in de tai l to help you wo rk cop ing S3W as we ll as a se t of meta l files . For so me throug h the imperfections found in every house and app lica tion s, fitti ng butt joints is simp lifie d \vith t he to avo id com mo n problems during instal lat ion.
Careful cutting is the hallmark of good joinery, be it in making furniture or installing trim moldings. Used correctly, a power miter saw offers the speed and precision to make your project look like it was done by a pro.
36 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
I Power Miter Saw Techniques
T h. ere <:Ire two main types of power miter $mvs. The basic style cuts mite red angles when materi al is placed again st the fence or beve led angles whe n material is pl aced flat on th e wo rk surface. T he second type is ca lled a compound mite r saw. Compound saws allow you to cut a mite r and a beve l simu ltaneously. T he co mpound angle is extrem ely helpfu l in situatio ns w he re a corner is out of plumb an d a mi tered angle req uires <! beve l to compensate. So me com pound saws are Clvcti lable \lith a sl iding feature that allows YO LI to cut through wider stock with a small er blade size. T hi s optio n raises the cos t of Tip: To avoid cutting off too much, start out by making a cut the saw considerably. about W’ to the waste side of the cutting line, then nibble at the workpiece with one or more additional cuts until you have cut up to the cutting li ne. Wait until the blade stops before ra ising the arm on every cut
Tips for Cutting with a Power Miter Saw ~
Blade guard
removed for
clarity
TO cut multiple pieces of stock to Make a full downward cut with use a sliding miter saw equipped
the same length, clamp a stop block a compound saw to cut wide stock. with a saw carriage that slides
to your support table at the desired Release the trigger and let the blade away from the fence. These saws
distance from the blade. After come to a fu ll stop, then raise the have greater cutting capacity than a
cutting the first piece, position each saw arm. Flip the workpiece over and nonsliding saw so they can cut wider
additional length against the stop finish the cut stock. They're also more expensive,
block and the fence to cut pieces of but you may find it worth renting
equal length. one.
Power fI.4iter Saw Tecll11 j[J! les • 37I Mitering Outside Corners C utting outside m iters is one of t he main f unct ion s of a pm,vc r mi te r saw. Mos t S3\VS have positi ve stops Tools & Materials ~ (called de te nts) a t 4 5° in eac h di rec tion, so standa rd Combination square Air compressor outs ide corn ers a rc prac tica ll y c ut for you by t he saw. or framing square Air hose Kee p in mind th a t yo ur saw mu st be acc u rate ly se t Miter saw T-bevel up to c ut jo in ts sq ua re ly. Head t he owne r’s ma nua l for Pencil Molding sett ing u p your saw as \le ll as fo r safe ty precau tio ns . Tape measure Masking tape Before you begin , c hec k the walls for sq ua re ,vith a Pneumatic finish nail gun 1x 4 comb ination squ a re or a fra min g sq ua re . If the corn e r is ve l)’ close to sq ua re, proceed with th e squ a re corne r installatio n. If t he co rn e r is badl y ou t of sq uare, follo w th e “Out of Square” proced ure o n t he fo llowing page .
How TO Miter Square Outside CornersSet the miter saw to 45°. Position the first piece on-edge. Set the miter saw blade to the opposing 45° positive stop. flat on the miter box table, flush against the fence. Hold the Place the second piece of molding on-edge, flat on the saw piece firmly in place with your left hand and cut the trim with a table, flush against the fence. Fasten the piece tightly in place slow, steady motion . Release th e power button of the saw and with a hold-down or clamp. Cut the molding with a slow. remove the molding after the blade stops. steady motion.
Stud location
'I
First pieceWith the first piece of molding tacked in place, hold the If the corner joint does not fit tightly, shim the work piece second piece in position and check the fit of the joint If the away from the fence to make minor adjustments until the joint joint is tight, nail both pieces at stud locations. fits tightly. Shims should be a uniform thickness. Playing cards work well.
38 • T H E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUILT-INS
I How to Miter Out-ot-Square Outside Corners
line parallel
to wallDraw a reference line off each wall of the corner using a To find the angle you need to miter your moldings, place a straight 1 x 4. Put masking tape down on the finished floor to T-bevel with the handle flush against one wall, and adjust the avoid scuffing it and to see your lines clearly Trace along each blade so that it intersects the point where your reference lines wall, connecting the traced lines at a point out from the tip of meet. Lock the blade in place at this angle. the corner.
Transfer the angle of the T-bevel to the miter saw by locking Position the molding on-edge, flat on the saw table and the saw in the down position and adjusting the angle to match flush against the fence. Cut at your cutting mark. Tack the the angle of the T-bevel. workpiece in place and repeat steps 2 through 4 to measure and cut the mating piece. Or, you can subtract the angle of the first cut (for example, 47”) from 90 to find the angle for the 0
second cut (43 in this case). using math is faster; taking direct
0
measurements is more reliable.
Power fI.4iter Saw Tecll11ilJlles • 39I Mitering Inside Corners Although most profess ionals prefer to cope-c ut ins ide corners, it is com mon to see mo ldings that are mitered Tools & Materials ~ to inside co rn ers. These joi nts are more likely to Miter saw Pneumatic finish nail gun se parate ove r time an d to allow gaps to s how. For t hat Pencil Air compressor rcason it is not advised to use inside corner mite rs Tape measure Air hose whe n insta lling a stain-grade trim product:. The gaps Utility knife Molding will be visi ble and are very diffi cu lt to fil l with putty. For paint-grade projects, miteri ng in side co rn ers makes mo re se nse because joints ca n be fi lled an d sanded before th e top coats of pai nt a rc applied .
How To Miter Square Inside Corners
Front face ofSet the miter saw to 45° and place the first piece of trim Back·cut the inside edge of the trim piece with a utility knife on·edge, flat on the miter box table and flush against the fence. so that the top corner will sit flush against the wall corner. Hold the piece firmly in place with your left hand and cut the trim with a slow, steady motion. Release the power button and remove the molding after the blade stops.
3 Stud location 4
Stud location
\Butt the molding tightly against the wallboard and tack it Adjust the blade of the miter saw to the opposite 45° angle into place. and cut the mating piece. Test the fit of the jOint, adjusting the miter angle if necessary. Once the fit is tight, nail both pieces at stud locations.
40 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT·1NS
I Building a Straightedge Guide Making s trai gh t and acc urate cu ts on pl ywood or paneli ng is a challenge. Even the best carpenter ca n’t always keep the blade on the c ut line, espec iall y over a longer spa n. A straightedge gu ide solves this probl em <:IS lo ng as YO LI keep the sav/s ba se plate flu sh w ith the
edge of the cieClt. The cleated edge of th e gu id e provides an acc urate ancho r for th e base pl ate of th e S3’V as the blade passes throug h th e mate rial. You can ma ke a stra ight cleat edge by rippi ng th e fi rst 2” off of an existin g pl yvvood pa nel and using th e factory edge. Use a fine-toothed blade for rip c uts and a pl ywood blade for s plinter-free crossc uts .
Tools & Materials ~
C-clamps ~,' Plywood
Pencil cleat (2 x 96")
A straightedge guide overcomes the difficulty of making
Circular saw Carpenter's square rip cuts and other square cuts on long workpieces. The
v,' Plywood base (10 x 96") glue guide is built square, ensuring that any cuts made with it will
be square as well.I How to Build a Straightedge Guide
Apply carpenter’s glue to the bottom Position the circular saw with its foot TO use the guide, position it on top of the ¥,” plywood cleat. then position tight against the ~, ” plywood cleat. Cut of the workpiece, so the guide’S square the cleat on the W’ plywood base, away the excess portion of the plywood edge is flush with the cutting line on the 2” from one edge. Clamp the pieces base with a single pass of the saw to workpiece. Clamp the guide in place together until the glue dries. create a square edge. with C-clamps.
Power fI.4iter Saw Tecll11ilJlles • 41I cutting Mitered Returns Mi te re d return s are a decorative treatment lIsed to fina l cut of th e process leaves the re turn loose whe re h ide th e e nd gra in of ,vood an d provide a fi nished it can some tim es be thrown from th e saw du e to th e appeara nce. M ite red re turn s range from tiny p ieces of a ir curre nt of th e blade. Plan on llsin g a piece of trim base shoe up to vcry la rge crown moldings. They are that is long enough to cut comforta bl y, or you will find also commonly used when instal lin g a stool a nd apron yourse lf fighting the saw. treat me nt or on decora ti ve friezes above doors. Bevel returns <:Ife another simple return o ption for cha ir rail, baseboard, and base shoe . A bevel re turn is simpl y a c ut at th e e nd of th e mo ldin g t ha t Tools & Materials ~ “return s” t he ‘vo rkp iccc back to th e wa ll at a n angle. T he biggest advantage to using mitered returns rathe r Combination squar.e pneumatic finish nail gun than beve l re turn s is t hat mi tered returns a lready Utility knife Air compressor have a finish e d s urface. Beve l re turn s requ ire more Power miter saw Air hose touc hup s. Miter. box and back saw T-bevel C ut ting mite red retu rn s for s ma ll moldings, such Pencil Molding as q uarte r-round, or for thin stock, such as base board , Tape measure Wood glue ca n be tric ky when using a power mite r S3’V. The
/ MiteIed Ietum
--...l-. Straight
Mitered cut
jointMitered returns finish molding ends that would otherwise Returns are made fr.om two 45 angle cuts. The scr.ap piece 0
be exposed. Miter the main piece as you would at an outside is removed and the r.eturn piece is glued into place. corner. Cut a miter on the r.eturn piece, then cut it to length with a str.aight cut so it butts to the wall. Attach the return piece with wood glue.
42 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUlLT-l NS
How to Cut Mitered Base Shoe Returns
Measure and mark the molding to length. Adjust the miter Adjust the blade of the miter saw to the opposite 45° angle saw blade to 45° and back-miter the molding, cutting the front and miter-cut the molding using a slow, steady stroke. edge to the desired overall length of the trim. Nail the back- mitered piece in place using a square to line it up flush with the edge of the door casing.
Hold the mitered molding against Check the fit of the return against the OPTION: Beveled returns are a quick the baseboard at a right angle above the baseboard. If it is too small, repeat steps and simple alternative to mitered installed base shoe. Mark the molding 3 and 4, making the piece slightly larger. returns. They require finish touchup at the depth of the installed base shoe. If the return is too large, trim it to fit with after the trim is installed . Square-cut the molding at the cutoff a utility knife or sandpaper. Once the mark. Because making this cut with a return fits properly, glue it in place with power saw is very dangerous, use a wood glue. miter box and a back saw The cut-off piece will be the mitered return piece.
Power fI.4iter Saw Tecll11ilJlles • 43I Establishing Level, Plumb & Square G ood ca rpe nters stri ve to ach ieve three basic ideals in t he ir work: plumb, level, a nd sq uare. Go into <1Il Y hom e, however, and you a re bound to find walls
th at bow, Aoars th at slope, a nd co rners th at do n’t form right angles. This does n’t a lways mean the ca rpe nter did a poo r job , but ra ther refl ects the fact that wood and many bu ild ing mater ia ls arc natura l products that expand, contract, and settl e with th e seasons. T hese natural movements do not always occu r at t he same rate, howeve r, causing Auctuations th at sometim es become perm ane nt . That’s ,..,hy it’s no surpri se that older homes more cOlllmon ly have large r Auctu3 tion s. T hese movements cun make trimmin g a built - in projec t c ha llengin g. Level a nd plumb a re hard conce pts to ap ply when th e fl oo r s lopes heavil y a nd corners float in or ou t. Co mpoundin g the problem furt he r is th at powe r too ls arc made to cu t and sha pe wood pre ci sely. Preset angles o n a co m po und miter saw don’t include angles such as 47 degrees. In most cases, yo ur installat ion of built- ins a nd trim “v iII requ ire co mp rom ises. Keep in mind the overa ll appea rance of yo ur project an d remember th at t he conce pts of plumb an d level can be relative conce pts. Stri ve to achieve th em fo r quality join ts, bu t don ‘t insist on th e m whe n t hey affect t he overall appeara nce of you r project negati vely. Here are a couple of Ilne pieces of advice to keep in mind:
• Level to th e roo m is more important th an leve l to the ea rth . • Flat is mo rc impo rtant than leve l.
A plumb bob is hung to establish a plumb (exactly vertical)
line. Plumb can be difficult to visualize. Most chalk boxes can
double as plumb bobs for rough use.44 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUlLT-l NS
Window and door jambs are normally installed level and use a spacer block as a guide to install moldings near a plumb, but if they aren’t your casing should still follow an even ceiling. The spacer will allow you to easily follow any ups and reveal of 3/,,” to ’// (about the thickness of a nickel) around downs of an uneven ceiling, making the trim run parallel to it the inside edge. Set the blade on a combination square to the rather than exactly level. depth of the reveal, then use the square as a guide for your pencil when marking. Install the casings flush with the mark.
Install baseboard as close to level as possible, paying Use a T-bevel to measure for miter-cutting trim on out-of- attention to areas where a floor dips or slopes over a longer square corners. use a piece of scrap 1 x 4 to trace lines parallel length. In these instances, “cheat” the baseboard as close to to the corner walls. Place the T-bevel so the blade runs from level as you can, leaving a gap below it. You can only cheat the the corner of the wall to the point where the lines intersect. molding to less than the height of your base shoe, or quarter Transfer this angle to your miter saw to cut your moldings. round . These trim pieces will cover the gap because they are thinner and easier to flex to the contour of your floor. Cheating the molding will also make cutting miters easier because they will require less of a bevel.
ESfahlisiliJlg Lel'el, PIUIIII) & Square • 45I Adding Doors C a bine t doors are easy to ma ke using ‘h” nn is h- grade plywood, and door-edge moldi ngs . Wh en hung ,vith se mi-c on cealed overlay hi nges, do- it- yourse lf panel -s tyle doors requ ire no complica ted rout ing or m orti sing tec hni ques . You ca n buil d them to any size nee ded, and fin ish th em to match your tastes. Anoth e r casy o ptio n is to bu y rea dy- made cabi ne t doors fro m a ca bin et manu facturer or ca bine t refac ing co mpany, and hang th em yo urself us ing sem i- co ncealed hinges. You also ca n have a profess ional cab inetm uker des ign and bu ild custom cab inet doors to yo ur specifications- a good choice if yo u wa nt wood -fra me d doors \lith g lass pane ls . Other do- it-yourself door opt ions includ e sliding doors, so lid -gla ss doo rs, and fra me less doors (page opposite).
Easy-to-build overlay doors, made with ‘I,’ finish-grade plywood panels framed with door-edge moldings, are designed to overhang the face frame by about W’ on each side. semi-concealed overlay hinges, which require no mortising, are attached to the back of the door and to the edge of the face frame. This door style also can be adapted to make folding doors.
Door-catch hardware is recommended if your doors do not use self-closing hinges, or if you want to lock them. Common types of hardware include: utility hasp (AI, railer catch (B), keyed lock (C), brass door bolt (0), and magnetic push latch (E) commonly used for solid glass doors.
46 • T H E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
I Door Options
Ready-made cabinet doors are available in stock sizes from Sliding doors are a good choice if limited space makes it cabinet manufacturers and cabinet refacing companies. Or. you impractical to install swinging doors. Build a pair of sliding can have doors custom-built by a professional cabinetmaker. doors from ’/,” finish-grade plywood, cut so they are ‘h” shorter Install these doors with semi-concealed overlay hinge. than the opening and will overlap by about 2” in the center. Attach door-track moldings to the top, bottom, and sides of the door opening. Install the doors by sliding them up into the top track, then lowering them into the bottom track .
•
• (
Pivot hingeGlass doors give a contemporary look to built-in projects. Use Frameless doors are common on contemporary-style built- ’/,” tempered glass with smoothed edges, not ordinary window ins constructed without face frames - especially those made glass, for doors. To install a glass door, drill holes in the top and with melamine-covered particleboard. Frameless doors are bottom of the door opening, and insert pivot-hinge bushings. mounted with concealed hinges attached to the inside surface Mount the door using pivot-hinge brackets attached to the of the built-in. glass with setscrews (inset).
Adding Doors I 47I Basic Drawers In its simplest fOfm, a drawer is noth ing Illore t han a wooden box th at slides in and o ut o n a pe rm a nent I Directions: Overlay Drawer shelf. Adding drmver slide hard,vare, a hardvvood drawe r face, and orname ntal knobs or pull s makes INSTALL THE DRAWER TRACK drmve rs look more professio nal. Insta ll the track for the drmve r slide, foll ovving T he drawe r shown on the following page is si mple th e m an ufacturer’s directio ns, If th e slide will be to build and w ill wo rk for any of the projec ts in thi s sup ported by t he face frame and the back panel, book. T he design is ca ll ed an “ove rlay” clrm-vcr because mount it using th e rea r bracket included with the slide it featu res a hardwood d rawer face that overhangs the kit. If the track w ill rest on a she lf, install it before the cabinet face frame. ca bi net is assem bled. Ready-made hardwood d rawer faces are sold by co mpanies spec ializing i n ca bin et ref;::lC ing products. BUILD THE DRAWER FRAME You G ill also make yo ur O\vn clrm-ver faces by cli tt ing Measure th e inte rior dime nsio ns of th e face fra me hard,vQod boards to t he prope r size a nd usi ng a ro uter an d the dep th of t he cab inet fro m th e back edge of with an e dgi ng bit to crea te a deco ra ti ve Rai r. the face frame to th e interior su rface of t he back A cente r-mounted drawe r s lide attac hed to th e panel. Then follow th e d imensions l isted in t he table botto m of the drmver a llows th e drawer to gl ide (opposite page) to cu t the drawer pieces to size. smoothl y an d acts as a support for drawers i ns tall ed in open cab ine ts. T he height, w idth , an d depth of the cabi llet, and th e opening for the drmver must be ca refull y meas ured Tip: Measuring the Cabinet ~ befo re t he drawer is built, to e nsu re a good Ilt.
Side panels : 1f2" dado
finish-grade PlYWOOd~ove Part Dimension
Sides length Depth of opening, minus 3"
height Height of opening, minus Vl'
Bottom panel: W'
finish-grade plywood Front length Width of opening, minus 1y,"
height Height of opening, minus y, "
Front panel : 112" Face: 3/4"
finish-grade plywood hardwood Back length Width of opening, minus 1%"
height Height of opening, minus 1"The basic overlay drawer is made using y, ” plywood for the Bottom length Width of opening, minus 1” front, back, and side panels, and %” plywood for the bottom height Depth of opening, minus 2’(''' panel. The bottom panel fits into a %” dado near th e bottom of the front and side panels, and is nailed to the bottom edge of Face length Width of opening, plus 1” the back panel. The hardwood drawer face is screwed to the height Height of opening, plus 1” drawer front from inside the drawer box.
48 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS
Outline '/-I"-wide dado grooves on t he interior
faces of the front and side panels. Hout '/," -deep dado
grooves a long t he mmked ou tl ines, Llsing a route r v,fith
a '/-1" stra ig ht bi t and a st ra ightedge gu ide.
Cla m p and gl ue the drawer pa nels togeth er w ith
the fro nt a nd bac k pa nels between th e side pane ls
and the top edges of the panels a lig ned . He inforee the
jo ints with 21t finis h na ils driven t hrough the fron t a nd
back into the side panels.
ATTACH THE DRAWER BOTTOM
Let the gl ue dry and remove the cla mps. Slide the
bottom pa ne l into the dado g rooves from the bac k of
the drawer box. Do not apply gl ue to the dado grooves
or the bottom paneL
Attac h the back edge of the bottom pa nel to the
back panel, using b rad na ils spaced every 4".
APPLY THE FINISHING TOUCHES
Finis h the drav\rcr face to matc h your project, Cl nd 311mv
the fi n ish to dry. Positio n the drawe r box aga inst the
bac k side of th e drawer face, so the face overhangs by Ih ll
on the sides and bottom, and J" on the top. Attach the
face with III screws driven [Tom ins ide t he drawer box.
Attac h t he drawer s lide insert to the drawe r
bottom , fo ll mvin g the man u facturer's d irectio ns.
Attac h a ny d rawer p ull s o r knobs as desi red, a nd sl ide
the d rawer in to t he cab ine t , making Slire the d rawerMount the track for the drawer slide with the rear bracket slide a nd insert are a ligned . when in stalling a drawer in an open cabinet
Front of
drawer
\Outline and then rout a dado groove Slide the bottom panel into the dado Attach the face of the drawer by along the bottom edge of the front and grooves of the drawer assembly. driving screws through the front panel side panels. into the face.
Basic Drawers • 49I Preparing for the Finish properl y prepared wood surface absorbs Rnish gra in fi lle r to fi ll in c hecks an d large pores, creatin g a A mater ials evenly, focus ing attention on the qua li ty smoo th -as-glass surface. and color of t he wood and t he Rnish . A poorly prepared Before begin ni ng the fina l prepara ti ons fo r su rface foc uses attention on itself an d its fl aws. the finis h, sa nd the wo rkpi ece \v ith med ium-grit Sandi ng o r fi lling sc ra tc hes an d gouges, removing sa ndpaper to remove small scra tc hes and ot her su rface de nts a nd stai ns, and ca refu lly fi ni sh sa nd ing are the problems- th is is especia lly im po rtant if YOll d id not essential steps in prepari ng for t he fi nis h . \t/ith ma ny usc sand ing as a fi na l stage of fi n is h remova l. A ny woods (especia ll y softwoods like pine ) you ca n c reate scratc hes, gouges, dents, or stains that survive the a more even finis h by sea ling t he wood wit h san d ing intermed iate san ding shou ld be re med ied befo re you sealer im me di ate ly after flnis h sandi ng, t hen sa nding Rnis h-san d. the sealer lightly \v ith 220-gri t sandpape r afte r it d ri es. Do your fi nal stCige of fi ni sh sa ndin g immed iately For exceptionally smooth, rich Rnis hes (particularly before you apply the Rnish- the smooth surface created on open -gra in hurdwoods like ma hogany), Cl pply wood by finish sa nding is eas ily scrCltc hed or d iscolore d .
Sand wood with power sanders, like the random-orbit sander shown above, to make quick work of the initial finish sanding stages, while producing a very smooth wood surface.
50 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVE S & BUlLT-l NS
How to Prepare a Wood Surface
Sandpaper Grit Chart ~
Grit Task
80 to 100 Finish removal
120 t0150 Preliminary finish sanding
180 Final sanding for softwood; intermediate
stage of finish sanding for hardwood
220 Final sanding for hardwood
300 to 400 Sanding between finish layers
600 wet/dry Wet sanding of final finish layer
Choose the right sandpaper for the Jab. Aluminum
oxide and garnet are two common types. Aluminum
oxide is a good general-use product suitable for most
refinishing and finishing purposes. Garnet is usuallyGet rid of glue. Dried glue won’t absorb wood stain or any cheaper than aluminum oxide, but it wears out much other penetrating coloring agents, so glue spills and squeeze- more quickly use sandpaper with the proper grit out show up as bright blotches if they’re not removed by (higher numbers indicate finer grit-see chart above). sanding or scraping before the finish is applied.
Apply wood grain filler that approximately matches the Make your own sanding sealer by blending one part clear natural color of your wood. Available in light and dark colors, topcoat material with one part topcoat solvent. Note: Use grain filler creates a smooth surface in open wood grains. the same topcoat material you plan to apply to the project. Usually manufactured as a gel, it can be applied with a putty Sanding sealer is used before coloring soft or open-grain knife or a rag, but the excess material should be wiped off with woods to achieve even stain penetration. TO apply, wipe on a a plastic scraper. heavy coat, then wipe off the excess after a few minutes. Sand lightly with 220-grit sandpaper when dry
Preparillgfor tile Fillish • 51I Surface preparation Surface preparation ensures a n even, high-qual ity finis h. Finish-sa nd with progress ive ly Ilner grit s of sandpape r, sta rt ing ,v ith IOO-grit . Hardwood req u ires finer-grit sandpape r (a final sand in g with 220 -grit is common) than soft wood (sa nd to I 50-grit). To speed up the process, use a power san der for th e first stages of t he s<:I nding, the n svv itc h to hand-s<:t nd ing to complete th e process. Finis h sa nding alone creates a smooth su rface, but because ,vood a bso rbs stai n at different ratcs, the color can be blotchy and dark. Sca ling wood w ith sand ing sealer (e it he r a com mercial product or your ow n concoctio n of thinned fin is h) evens out the sta in - <Jbsorpt ion rates and yields a lighte r. more even fin ish. Fill i ng the gr<:li n w it h a co rnrn erci<1\ p<Jste fille r c reates a fina l fini sh that feels as smooth as it looks. Use sanding sealer or grain filler for a fine finish. Finish sanding alone (left) can leave a blotchy surface when stain is applied, but a coat of sanding sealer (center) or grain-filler (right), or both, allows you to create a smoother, more even finish.
I How to Finish-sand
Finish-sand all surfaces with 1S0-grit Raise the wood grain by dampening use sanding blocks to hand-sand sandpaper, following the direction of the surface with a wet rag. Let the wood the entire workpiece with the finest- the grain. Use a finishing sander on flat dry, then skim the surface with a fine grit paper in the sanding sequence. surfaces and specialty sanding blocks abrasive pad, following the grain. Sand until all sanding marks are gone on contours. When sanding hardwood, and the surface is smooth. (Use bright switch to 1BO-grit paper and sand again. side lighting to check your progress.) If using sanding sealer, do that now.
52 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
I How to Use Sanding Sealer
Make your own sanding sealer by blending one part clear Wipe on a heavy coat of the sealer. then wipe off the topcoat material (not water-based) with one part topcoat excess after a few minutes. When dry, sand lightly with 220-grit solvent. Note: use the same topcoat material you plan to apply sandpaper. to the project.
I How to Apply Grain Filler
After finish sanding, use a rag or Remove excess filler by drawing a Lightly hand-sand the surface, putty knife to spread a coat of grain filler plastic scraper across the grain of the following the direction of the grain, with onto the wood surface. With a polishing wood at a 45 angle. Let the grain fi ller 0 220-grit sandpaper. Finally, dampen a motion, work the filler into the grain. dry overnight. clean cloth with mineral spirits and use Let the filler dry until it becomes cloudy it to thoroughly clean the surface. (usually about 5 minutes).
Preparillg/or tile Fillish • 53I Installing Cabinets C abinets must be firm ly anchored to wa ll studs, and they must be plumb and level when installed. T he best v,ray to ensure thi s is by <:Ittnc hing a ledger boa rd to the vVCI\I to assist in the insta llat ion. As a ge ne ral rule, in sta ll th e uppe r cabi ne ts first so your access is not impeded by the base cabinets. (Although some p rofessionals prefer to insta ll the base cabi ne ts fi rst so th ey can be used to support th e u ppers during insta llation.) It’s also best to begin in a corner and wor k outward from there.
Tools & Materials ~
Handscrew clamps Cabinets
Level Trim molding
Hammer Toe-kick molding
Uti lity kn ife Filler strips
Nail set valance
Stepladder 6d finish nails Stock cabinets are sold in boxes that are keyed to door
Drill Finish washers and drawer packs (you need to buy these separately). It is
important that you realize this when you are estimating your
Counterbore drill bit #10 x 4" wood screws
project costs at the building center (often a door pack will cost
Cordless screwdriver #8 x 2W' screws as much or more than the cabinet). Also allow plenty of time
Jig saw 3" drywall screws for assembling the cabinets out of the box. It can take an hour
or more to put some more complex cabinets together.I How to Fit a Corner Cabinet Before installation, test-fit corner and adjoining cabinets to make sure doors and handles do not interfere with each other. If necessary, increase the clearance by pulling the corner cabinet away from the side wall by no more than 4” . To maintain II’ even spacing between the edges of the doors and the cabinet corner, cut a filler strip and attach it to the corner cabinet or the adjoining cabinet. Filler strips should be made from material that matches the cabinet doors and face frames.
54 • T H E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUtLT-tNS
How to Install Wall Cabinets1 2 Filler / strip
Position a corner upper cabinet on a ledger and hold it in Attach a filler strip to the front edge of the cabinet, if place, making sure it is resting cleanly on the ledger. Drill ~,, ” pilot needed. Clamp the filler in place, and drill counterbored pilot holes into the wall studs through the hanging strips at the top, holes through the cabinet face frame, near hinge locations. rear of cabinet Attach the cabinet to the wall with 2’h” screws. Attach filler to cabinet with 2’h” cabinet screws or flathead DO not tighten fully until all cabinets are hung. wood screws.
3
Position the adjoining cabinet on the ledger, tight against Check the front cabinet edges or face frames for plumb. the corner cabinet or filler strip. Clamp the corner cabinet Drill ~, ,.’ pilot holes into wall studs through hanging strips in and the adjoining cabinet together at the top and bottom. rear of cabinet Attach cabinet with 2’1,” screws. Do not tighten Handscrew clamps will not damage wood face frames. wall screws fully until all cabinets are hung.
/lIs/ailiJ1g Cabinets • 55
6Attach the corner cabinet to the adjoining cabinet. From Position and attach each additional cabinet. Clamp inside corner cabinet, drill pilot holes through face frame. Join frames together, and drill counterbored pilot holes through cabinets with sheet-metal screws. side of face frame. Join cabinets with wood screws. Drill ’/,,” pilot holes in hanging strips, and attach cabinet to studs with wood screws.
7Join frameless cabinets with #8 x , %” panhead wood Fill gaps between the cabinet and wall or neighboring screws or wood screws with decorative washers. Each pair of appliance with a filler strip. Cut the filler strip to fit the space, cabinets should be joined by at least four screws. then wedge wood shims between the filler and the wall to create a friction fit that holds it in place temporarily Drill counterbored pilot holes through the side of the cabinet (or the edge of the face frame) and attach filler with screws.
56 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
10Remove the temporary ledger. Check the cabinet run for plumb, and adjust if Use trim moldings to cover any gaps necessary by placing wood shims behind cabinet, near stud locations. Tighten wall between cabinets and walls. Stain screws completely. Cut off shims with utility knife. moldings to match cabinet finish.
12Attach decorative valance above sink. Clamp valance to Install the cabinet doors. If necessary, adjust the hinges so edge of cabinet frames, and drill counterbored pilot holes that the doors are straight and plumb. through cabinet frames into end of valance. Attach with sheet- meta I screws.
/lIs/a iliJ1g Cabinets • 57
How to Install Base Cabinets
1v
Begin the installation with a corner cabinet. Draw plumb Place cabinet in corner. Make sure the cabinet is plumb and lines that intersect the 34’// reference line (measured from the level. If necessary, adjust by driving wood shims under cabinet high point of the floor) at the locations for the cabinet sides. base. Be careful not to damage flooring. Drill ¥,,” pilot holes through the hanging strip and into wall studs. Tack the cabinet to the wall with wood screws or wallboard screws.
3Clamp the adjoining cabinet to the corner cabinet. Make sure the new cabinet is use a jig saw to cut any cabinet plumb, then drill counterbored pilot holes through the cabinet sides or the face frame openings needed in the cabinet backs and filler strip. Screw the cabinets together. Drill ‘h,” pilot holes through hanging strips (for example, in the sink base seen here) and into wall studs. Tack the cabinets loosely to the wall studs with wood screws or for plumbing, wiring or heating ducts. wallboard screws.
58 • T H E COM PL ETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT·1NS
5
Position and attach additional cabinets, making sure the Make sure all cabinets are level. If necessary, adjust by frames are aligned and the cabinet tops are level. Clamp driving shims underneath cabinets. Place shims behind the cabinets together, then attach the face frames or cabinet sides cabinets near stud locations to fill any gaps. Tighten wall with screws driven into pilot holes. Tack the cabinets to the screws. Cut off shims with utility knife. wall studs, but don’t drive screws too tight- you may need to make adjustments once the entire bank is installed .
7
use trim moldings to cover gaps Hang cabinet doors and mount drawer fronts, then test to make sure they close between the cabinets and the wall or smoothly and the doors fit evenly and flush. Self-closing cabinet hinges (by far the floor. The toe-kick area is often covered most common type installed today) have adjustment screws that allow you to make with a strip of wood finished to match minor changes to the hardware to correct any problems. the cabinets or painted black.
/lIs/a iliJ1g Cal)iJlelS • 59I Creating a Kitchen Island K itchen islands can be created using a ,v hole range of methods, from repurposing an o ld tab le to fine, Clistom ,voodworking. But perhaps the eas ies t Tools & Materials ~ Marker 2 base cabinets (approx. (a nd most fai lsafe) way to add the conveniences and Drill/driver 36” wide x 24” deep) conviviality of a kit chen island is to make one from 2 x 4 cleats Countertop stock base cabinets. The cabinets an d co untertops Pneumatic nailer and Wallboard screws don ‘t have to match you r kitc he n ca binetry, but that 2” fin ish nails or is ce rtainly an option you should conside r. ”‘!he n hammer and designing and positioning your new island, be sure 6d finish nails to maintain a minim um distance of 3 ft. bet\veen the island a nd other cabinets (4 ft. or more is better).
r 1TWO base cabinets arranged back-to-back make a sturdy kitchen island base that’s easy to install. When made with the same style cabinets and countertops as the rest of the kitchen, the island is a perfect match.
60 • T HE CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUlLT-l NS
How to Create a Stock-cabinet Island
Set two base cabinets back-to-back in position on the floor Cut 2 x 4 cleats to fit inside the inner outline to provide and outline the cabinet corners onto the flooring. Remove the nailing surfaces for the cabinets. Attach the cleats to the floor cabinets and draw a new outline inside the one you just created with screws or nails. TIP: Create an L-shape cleat for each to allow for the thickness of the cabinet sides (usually 3/,”). inside corner.
Join the two base cabinets together by driving 1’1,’ Attach the cabinets to the floor cleats using 6d finish nails. wallboard screws through the nailing strips on th e backs of Drill pilot holes for nails, and recess nail heads with a nail set. the cabinets from each direction. Make sure the cabinet sides Make a countertop and install it on top of the cabinets. are flush and aligned . Lower the base cabinets over the cleats. Check the cabinets for level, and shim underneath the edges of the base if necessary.
Creatillg a Kitchell Islalld • 61I Making Countertops M ore than si mply a work surface, a kitchen counte rto p is an important part of many buil t- in s th at can dazz le w ith the look-nt-me pi zzazz of grani te, be doing th e ,vork yo urself or co ntrac ting out, and what loo k yo u wa nt: to ac hieve. I n thi s chapter we w ill cove r several countertop op tio ns, identify ing th eir or bring toge th er a coun try theme w ith soapston e and plu ses and m inuses, and giving installat ion di rec tion s butc he r block. T he re are many c hoices in COllntertops, for th ose you ca n in stall yourse lf. from the less expensive laminate and post-form , Ste p-by-s te p instruc tio ns w it h photographs are through ce ramic and stone tile, to high-e nd stai nlcss- inc lud e d for t\VO countertop projec ts: pos t-form stee l, granite an d marble. laminate d, cus tom lam ina te. Countertop options fo r you r built- in depen d on how much you are wi lli ng to spend, wheth er you will
Butcher Block ~
End grain
Face grain
Edge grain
Typical countertop material is 1%" wide and 25" deep, Butcher block that's constructed with the end grain
available in a number of lengths from 4 ft to 12 ft. long. oriented up is the most deSirable, but it is relatively hard
to find and fairly expensive. Material with the face grain or
edge grain facing up is more common and more affordable
(prefinished, it still runs around $30 per lineal foot).62 • T H E COM PL ETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
A well-chosen countertop can give your built-in a high-end appearance and a professional finish.
!'\lIakillg e mlllte rrops • 63I Installing a Post-form Countertop P ost-form lam inate counter- tops are ava ilable in stock <J nd custo m co lors. Pre- m itered sect ions afe also avai lable. If the COllntertop has a n exposed e nd, YO LI \·v ill need an endeap kit th at
contains a prcshapcd strip of matc hing lam inate. Post-fo rm countertops have eith er a wate rfall edge or a no-drip edge. Stoc k colors a f C typicall y ava ilab le in 4-,6-,8-, j 0- and 12-foot stra ight lengths and 6- and 8-foot mitered lengths.
Materials and tools for installing a post-form countertop include: wood for shimming (A), take-up bolts for drawing miters together (81, household iron (CI, endcap laminate to match countertop (D), end cap battens (EI, file (F), adjustable wrench (G), buildup blocks (H), compass (I), fasteners (I), silicone caulk and sealer (K).
Post-form countertops are among the easiest and cheapest to install. They are a good choice for beginning DIYerS, but the design and color options are fairly limited .
64 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Tools & Materials ~
Tape measure Post-form countertop
Framing square Wood shims
Pencil Take-up bolts
Straightedge Drywall screws
C-clamps Wire brads
Hammer Endcap laminate
Level Silicone caulk
Caulking gun Wood glue.
Jig saw
Compass
Adjustable wrench
Belt sanderOPTION: Use a jig saw fitted with a downstroke blade to cut Drill and spade bit post-form if the saw foot must rest on the good surface of the Cordless screwdriver post form. If you are unable to locate a downstroke blade, you can try applying tape over the cutting lines, but you are still likely to get tear-out from a normal upstroke jig saw blade.
How to Install a Post-form Countertop
Use a framing square to mark a cutting line on the bottom Attach the battens from the endcap kit to the edge of the surface of the countertop. Cut the countertop with a jig saw, countertop, using carpenter’s glue and small brads. Sand out using a clamped straight-edge as a guide. any unevenness with a belt sander
Installil1g a Post -form COIlllfer/op • 65Hold the end cap laminate against the end, slightly Position the countertop on base cabinets. Make sure the overlapping the edges. Activate adhesive by pressing an iron front edge of the countertop is parallel to the cabinet faces. set at medium heat against the endcap. Cool with a wet cloth, Check the countertop for level. Make sure that drawers and then file the end cap laminate flush with the edges of the doors open and close freely. If needed, adjust the countertop countertop. with shims.
!iBecause walls are usually uneven, use a compass to Remove the countertop. use a belt sander to grind trace the wall outline onto the backsplash. Set the compass the backsplash to the scribe line. Replace and install the arms to match the widest gap, then move the compass along countertop. the length of the wall to transfer the outline to the top of the backsplash. Apply painter’s tape to the top edge of the backsplash, following the scribe line (inset).
66 • T H E COM PL ETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Tips for Installing Post-form Countertops ~
Mark the cutout for a self-rimming Drill a starter hole just inside the Apply a bead of silicone caulk to sink by tracing it. Position the sink cutting line. Make sink cutouts with the edges of the mitered countertop upside down on the countertop and a jig saw Support the cutout area sections. Force the countertop trace its outline. Remove the sink from below so that the falling cutout pieces tightly together. and draw a cutting line %” inside the does not damage the cabinet or sink outline. countertop.
From underneath the countertop, install and tighten Seal the seam between the backsplash and the wall with miter take-up bolts Position the countertop tightly against silicone caulk. Smooth the bead with a wet fingertip. Wipe the wall and fasten it to the cabinets by driving wallboard away excess caulk. screws up through corner brackets and into the countertop. Screws should be long enough to provide maximum holding power, but not long enough to puncture the laminate surface.
Installi l1g a Post-form COIlllfer/op • 67I Building a Custom Laminate Countertop B u ildi ng yo ur own c us tOIll la m inate cou nte rto p using sheets of plasti c laminate and part ic leboard offers two ctd va ntages: the co unterto p YOLI get ,vill be less Tools & Materials ~ Tape measure %” particleboard expe nsive tha n a c ustom-o rde red counte rtop , a nd it Framing square Sheet laminate will a llm,v YO LI m ore options in te rm s of colors a nd e dge Straightedge Contact cement and t rea tme nts. A cOllnte rtop made with la m inates a lso ca n Scoring tool thinner be ta ilored to fit any space, un like prc madc countcrtop paint roller wood glue materi al that is a standard wi dth (usua lly 25”). 3-way clamps Drywall screws. La minate commonly is sold in 8- ft. or j 2-ft. lengths Caulk gun that are a bo ut Ihol! t hic k. [n widt h, th ey range fro m 30 ‘1 J-roller stri ps to 48 11 sheets. The 30” strips <:Ire sized spec ifl cally Miter saw fo r cou nte rtops, a ll owing for a 2 51!-wide COll nterto p, a Scribing compass I lh” wide front edge stri p and a short bac ksplas h. Circular saw T he plastic lamin ate is bonded to th e parti cle- Screwdriver boa rd or j’vl D F sub st ra te wit h co ntac t ce m e n t Belt sander (a lth ough mos t profess iona l ins ta ll e rs usc ad hesives File that are avai lable only to th e trades) . Wa ter-base Router co ntact ceme nt is nonAa mm a bl e an d no ntoxic , but so lvent- base contact ceme nt (whi c h requ ires a res pi rator and is hi ghly Aa m ma b le ) c reates a m uc h stro nge r, more durable bond .
Fabricating your own custom countertop from particleboard and plastiC laminate is not exactly an easy DIY proJect, but it gives you unlimited options and the results can be very satisfying.
68 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Tips for Working with Laminate ~
Measure along tops of base cabinets to determine the size of the countertop. If wall corners are not square, use a framing square to establish a reference line (R) near the middle of the base cabinets, perpendicular to the front of the cabinets. Take four measurements (A, B, c, D) from the reference line to the cabinet ends. Allow for overhangs by adding 1” to the length for each exposed end, and 1” to the width (E).
Backsplash substrate
Countertop substrateLayout cutting lines on the particleboard so you can rip-cut the substrate and build-up strips to size, using a framing square to establish a reference line. Cut core to size using a circular saw with clamped straightedge as a guide. Cut 4” strips of particleboard for the backsplash, and for joint support where sections of countertop core are butted together. Cut 3” strips for edge buildups.
BllildiJlg a ellS/Om Lam il1ale COIllller/op • 69
How to Build a Custom Laminate Countertop
1 1 2
•
-Join the countertop substrate pieces on the bottom side. Attach 3”-wide edge buildup strips to the bottom of the Attach a 4” particleboard Joint support across the seam, using countertop, using 1%” wallboard screws. Fill any gaps on the carpenter’s glue and 1%” wallboard screws. outside edges with latex wood patch, and then sand the edges with a belt sander.
TO determine the size of the laminate
top, measure the countertop substrate.
Laminate seams should not overlap the
substrate. Add y," trimming margin to
both the length and width of each piece.
Measure laminate needed for face and
edges of backsplash, and for exposed
edges of countertop substrate. Add '(," to
each measurement70 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
4
Cut laminate by scoring and breaking it. Draw a cutting OPTION: Some laminate installers prefer to cut laminate line, then etch along the line with a utility knife or other sharp with special snips that resemble avaiator snips. Available cutting tool. Use a straightedge as a guide. Two passes of from laminate suppliers, the snips are faster than scoring scoring tool will help laminate break cleanly. and snapping, and less likely to cause cracks or tears in the material. You’ll still need to square the cut edges with a trimmer or router.
Bend laminate toward the scored line until the sheet Create tight-piloted seams with plastic laminate by using breaks cleanly. For better control on narrow pieces, clamp a a router and a straight bit to trim edges that will butt together straightedge along the scored line before bending laminate. Measure from cutting edge of the bit to edge of the router wear gloves to avoid being cut by sharp edges. baseplate (A). Place laminate on scrap wood and align edges. To guide the router, clamp a straightedge on the laminate at distance A plus v.”, parallel to laminate edge. Trim laminate.
BllildiJlg a ellS/Om Lamil1ale COIllller/op • 71Apply laminate to sides of countertop first Using a paint Use a router and flush-cutting bit to trim edge strip flush with roller, apply two coats of contact cement to the edge of the top and bottom surfaces of countertop substrate. At edges countertop and one coat to back of laminate. Let cement dry where router cannot reach, trim excess laminate with a file. according to manufacturer’s directions. Position laminate Apply laminate to remai ning edges, and trim with router. carefully, then press against edge of countertop. Bond by rolling with a !-roller.
Test-fit laminate top on countertop
9 \
substrate. Check that laminate overhangs
all edges. At seam locations, draw a
reference line on core where laminate
I edges will butt together. Remove laminate.
Make sure all surfaces are free of dust,
) then apply one coat of contact cement
to back of laminate and two coats to
substrate. Place spacers made of %"-
/ thick scrap wood at 6" intervals across
countertop core. Because contact cement
bonds instantly, spacers allow laminate
to be positioned accurately over core
without bonding. Align laminate with seam
reference line. Beginning at one end,
remove spacers and press laminate to
countertop core.72 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Apply contact cement to remaining
substrate and next piece of laminate. Let
the cement dry, then position laminate on
spacers, and carefully align the butt seam.
Beginning at seam edge, remove spacers
and press laminate to the countertop
substrate.11
cutting bitRoll the entire surface with a J-roller to bond the laminate to Remove excess laminate with a router and flush-cutting bit. the substrate. Clean off any excess contact cement with a soft At edges where router cannot reach, trim excess laminate with cloth and mineral spirits. a file. Countertop is now ready for final trimming with bevel- cutting bit.
BllildiJlg a ellS/Om Lamil1ale COIllller/op • 73
~
\.-
15° bevel-
cutting bitFinish-trim the edges with router and 15° bevel-cutting bit. TIP: File all edges smooth. Use downward file strokes to set bit depth so that the bevel edge is cut only on top laminate avoid chipping the laminate. layer. Bit should not cut into vertical edge surface.
14 15cut 1Y.”-wide strips of %” plywood to form an overhanging Test-fit the countertop and backsplash. Because your walls scribing strip for the backsplash. Attach to the top and sides of may be uneven, use a compass to trace the wall outline onto the backsplash substrate with glue and wallboard screws. Cut the backsplash scribing strip. Use a belt sander to grind the laminate pieces and apply to exposed sides, top and front of backsplash to scribe line. backsplash. Trim each piece as it is applied.
74 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
16
Apply a bead of silicone caulk to the bottom edge of the Position the backsplash on the countertop, and clamp backsplash . it into place with bar clamps. Wipe away excess caulk, and let dry completely.
screw 2" wallboard screws through the18 countertop and into the backsplash core. Make sure screw heads are countersunk I completely for a tight fit against the base cabinet Install countertops.
BllildiJlg a ellS/Om Lamil1ale COIllller/op • 75I Creating Wood Countertop Edges
FCOllntert~p)
or an e leaant Cldded tOllc h on a laminate
lise hardwood edges and s hape the mwith a ro uter. Hout th e edges before attac hi ng th e backsplas h to the counte rtop. Wood caps ca n also be add ed to the top edge of th e bac ksplas h. A sim ple edge is best for easy cleaning.
Tools & Materials ~
Hammer Router
Nail set 1 x 2 hardwood strips
Belt sander with 120-grit Wood glue
sanding belt Finish nails Incorporating hardwood into the countertop edging
3-way clamps presents a wealth of attractive and very durable solutions for
the nosing of a plastic laminate countertop.I How to Build Solid Hardwood Edges
Apply laminate to the top of the countertop before Mold the top and bottom edges of the strip with a router attaching the edge strip. Attach the edge strip flush with the and profiling bit, if desired. Stain and fi nish the wood as surface of the laminate, using wood glue and fi nish nails. desired.
76 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
I How to Build Coved Hardwood Edges
Cut 1 x 2 hardwood strips to fit the Attach edge strips to the countertop Sand the edge strips flush with the edges of the countertop. Sand the strips with wood glue and 3-way clamps. Drill top surface of the countertop, using a smooth. Miter-cut the inside and outside pilot holes, then attach strip with finish belt sander and 120-grit sandpaper. corners. nails. Recess nail heads with a nail set or, use a pneumatic finish nailer with 2” nails.
Apply laminate to the edge and top of the countertop after Cut cove edge with a router and cove bit with ball-bearing the hardwood edge has been sanded flush. pilot Smooth cove with 220-grit sandpaper. Stain and finish exposed wood as desired.
Crentillg Wood COIO/terrop Edges • 77I Window Seat O ne great way to add cozy charm to a room is to build a “lindow seat. Not on ly do window seats make a room more invit ing, they provide fu nctional be nellts as just the right he ight (when placed on a 3” curb) to create a comfortab le seat. Above the cab inets and Aanking celch side is a well, partic ularly “vhen yo u su rround them w ith bu ilt- in site-made bookcase. A top she lf bridges the t\iva cases shelving. The “vindow seat shown here has a base built an d ties t he who le thi ng toget he r-,v hile crea ting still from a bove-t he-refrigerator cabinets. This size provides more space for sto rage or d isplay.
80 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Tools Mi ter S3\Y Table saw Ci rcular saw Drill/driver Level Stud finder Hammer Tape measure Nail set Pneumatic nailer/compressor Hauter Shooting board Sander Fra ming square
Materials 2) lSI! upper refrigerator cabinets 2) %” x 4 x 8 ft. pes. M DF or plywood Screws/nails I ) ‘I,”~ x 4 x 8 ft. laua n plywood Caulk Primer Paint
Cutting List Part No. Desc. Size Material Part No. Desc. Size Material A 2 Outer standard %x llY2x 771// MOF H 2 Bridge “binets 15 h x 36” w Stock “binets B 2 Inner standard 3/4 x 111fl X 63 1/ / MDF 2 End panel ‘I, x 24 x IB” MDF C 6 Shelf ¥-i x 16 1/) x 1]1// MDF J 4 Nailer 3/. x 21/1 x 15” Plywood D Top shelf 0/4 x 11 1/ .. x 70W MDF K ledger 3/. x 2111 x 72” Plywood E Top bocker 1f4x13 /4 x71 %” Plywood 1 L 2 Curb rim o/4 x3x72” MDF F 2 Bllckers 1/. x 171/1 x 63 1/4 ” Plywood M 4 Curb strut 0/4 x 3 X 221/1” MDF G Seotboord 0/” 25 x 74” MDF N Cabinet nailer o/4 x3x72” MDF
Wi l1dOHl Seal • 81
How to Build a Window Seat
LAY OUT THE PROJECT
1 T h is w indo w seat is integrated v·,Iith the existing win dO\v
and trimwork. T he key contro l point for laying out
the base ca binets is locating the center of th e v·,Iindow
openi ng. It is al so important that the cabinets sit level
both le ft-to -rig ht and front-to- back. Level cab inet top s
make in sta lli ng th e uppe r cabinet cases mLl ch eas ie r.
Before YOLI begi n buildin g, re locate or re move a ny
electrica l outlets t hat' ll be cove red by the ca binet,
accordin g to you r local e lectri ca l codes . Fo r exa m p le,
yo u ca n't just dead-e nd w ires an d leave th em buri ed
in a wa ll. T hey usua ll y need to be capped and placed
in a ju nc tion box w ith a re mova ble faceplate that isThe key control point for laying this project out is the center access ible (vv hi c h ma y mean makin g a c utout in t he of the window sill. Measure and mark it back of a cab inet pane l). Mark the cen te r of th e win dow opening o n th e sill (pho to I ). Use a sq uare an d a level to t ransfer that mark plum b down the wa ll to t he ca binet he ig ht locat io n. At t he he ight of the cab ine ts mark a level line. i\ lleas ure from the Roa r up to th e level line in severa l loca tion s to make s ure th e cabine t s w ill fit a ll a lo ng the ir enti re run (photo 2). If t hey do n’t fit , make th e prope r adju stments; that is, raise the line . Ca binets tha t don·t co me up to th e li ne m ust be shim med so they are level. Using an elec troni c stud finder, Rnd and mark the wa ll stud loca t ions be neat h the w indO\v and on eac h side in t he project area. Note: You should find jack and king stlids directly on either side of the window and a header above the windollJ. Deter/nine the overall span of the cabinets you. choose. For the project ShOl lnt After striking a level line at cabinet height, measure from here, the bank will be 6 ft . long, nwasuringfrom ontside ~ the floor in three locations to make sure the cabinets will fit edge to outside-edge. Use a level to mark tile outside edges of the cabinet run Oil tlte wall. Mark plumb lines down to the floor and “1’ to the ceiling (photo 3).
3 INSTALL THE BASE CABINETS
With a ll th e layo ut lines ma r ked out, the next step
is to insta ll th e ca binets th at form the base of the
w in dmv seat. T hi s de te rmin es t he control points for
the rest of the project layout. Use a pull -saw an d sha rp
c hi se l to remove base moldin g between t he ve rti ca l
layo Llt lines (photo 4).
To e leva te the ca binets that \vill be used fo r th e
sea t to a mo re co mfo rtab le he ig ht, a nd to crea te a
toe~ ki c k space, build a s ho rt c urb t hat matc hes th e
footp rint of t he scat. Si nce t he cu rb will not be visibl e,Strike a plumb line on each edge of the cabinet run. use a yo u can usc j ust a bou t any sho p sc rap s you may have Hoot level and strike the line from floor to ceiling. to b u ild it. The o ne s hown here is made w ith iVlDF
82 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
shee t stoc k that is rip-c ut in to 3”-wide strips. Th en the curb is assem bled into a ladd er shape by attach ing struts betwee n th e front and back curb members with 4 glue and sc rews (p hoto 5). O nce the ladd e r is bu il t, se t th e cabinets on th e curb so th e ca bi ne t fron ts and sides align with t he cu rb. Ma rk the locatio n of the backs of the ca binets o nto the top of th e curb and th en remove the cabine ts. A ttac h a nailer to th e curb ju st behind the line fo r th e cab inet backs . T he n, pos it ion th e curb tight against the wa ll in the area w here the base molding has bee n removed. A ttac h it to the si ll plate of the wa ll wi th na il s or screws. To s upport the bac k edge of t he seatboard, attac h a ledge r to th e wa ll. Th e to p of th e ledge r (we used a 2 ‘j,“-wide st rip of plywood ) sho uld be Aus h w it h th e tops of th e cab ine ts w hen they are in stalled on top of th e curb. A tt ac h th e ledger w ith panel adh esive and nai ls or screws dri ve n at stud loca ti ons Because a pull-type saw requires almost zero clearance (photo 6). Measu re betwee n th e to p of t he curb and at the bottom of a cut (where it would hit the floor in this ledge r and cut a few naile rs to t his length . application), it’s great for removing the base molding so the cabinet carcases fit tight to the wall.
Assemble the curb members into a ladder-like frame and Attach a ledger for the back edge of the seatboard to the secure the butt joints with glue and screws driven through wall, using panel adhesive and screws or nails driven at stud pilot holes. locations.
Wil1dolV Seal • 83
Attach t hem to the wedl at the e nds of the project,
and add a coup le near the center to help support the
ledge r (photo 7).
Set t he cabinets in posi ti on on t he curb, \,v ith t he
back edges aga inst the nai ler. Drive shims betwee n the
curb and the Aoor if necessary to level the cabinets
(photo 8 ). Fasten the cabi nets to the na ile r strip.
Pre-dri ll , co un te rs ink a nd face-fasten the face frames
toge ther \<\I ith screws to form a "ga ng" of cab inets
(p hoto 9). If YOLI are lIsing cab inets t hat have no face
fram es, screw the cabinet sides together as dire cted by
the cabinet manufacturer. Cut off shims as necessary.
If the e nds of you r window seat are open (that
is, they don 't butt up against a wa ll), cut e nd pane lsCut nailers to fit between the ledger and the curb and attach to cover the ends of the cab inets and the open space them to the wall at the ends of the project area. behind them. Use 1/4 11 plywood or hardboard. You ma y need to remove a slive r of the baseboard on each side so you can butt the panels up aga in st the .va ll. Attach the pane l to the cabinet ends and the curb with pa ne l adhesive. Cut, rout and install the seat top. Cutting a 74” x 25” blank from M DF (medium -density fiberboard ) works wel l. This will c reate a one inch overha ng at the front and sides of the cab inets.
For floors that are out of level, shim the cabinets up to th e level line to keep them in a level plane.
After clamping the cabinet face-frames together, pre- Before installing the seat top, rout a profile on the front dri ll and fasten them together with screws. and side edges. Don’t rout the back.
84 • TH E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUlLT-l NS
Use <:I rou te r <:Ind bit w it h <:I deco rat ive profi le (s uc h <:IS <:I n ogee or a plain roun dove r) to smooth th e hard edge of the M OF (photo 10). Profilin g the edge red uces the chance th at th e edge wi ll chip or crack. Pos itio n the seat top on top of the cab inets and the wal l ledger a nd faste n it from the interior of the ca binets using coarse- threaded drywall sc rews. A bead of pane l adh es ive along t he top edges of the c<:l binet a nd the ledger he lps ens ure a sol id con necti on.
CUT THE CASE STOCK T he bookcase portion of the window seat ca n be assemb led from shee t stock (M OF is a good c hoice) or solid Ix stock, such as I x 12 pine or poplar (pine is c hea per, popla r is st ronger an d takes pain t better) or hmd,vood like mCiple, oCl k, or cheny for sta ining. WhCltever materiCi I yo u choose, insta ll CI backer sheet of ’/,” pl ywood that fi ts into rab be ts in th e backs of the case stoc k to help ensu re squa re assem bly and provide a strong con nec ti o n point to the wal l. T he ac tu al wid th of I x 12 di me nsio n lumber is 1 J 112”, so if usi ng sheet stock, rip all pieces to width . Any edges that face th e interior of th e room need to Clamp all work securely before milling the y, x % rabbet. be sanded smooth to remove SClW marks. Note that for the backers with a router, which will provide safe, accurate it’s usuCi ll y eas ie r to dress t he fac tory edge th an th e cuts. The remainder of the layout and sizing must be registered edge cut on-site. Running the pieces on a joi nter or from the seat top to accommodate specific site conditions. route r table is a fast, accurate ,vay to dress th e edge. A be lt sa nder or finish sander w ith fine grit paper wo rk s too, but be careful not to re move too mu c h stoc k. Of course, you ca n also hand sand it. 12 C ut <:I 1/21! ,vide by 1/.,,” deep rabbet (see drawing, page 81) on the backs of the stan dard s (p hoto I I). You can do t his ,vith a table saw (eit her make multip le passes on the tab le saw to remove stoc k or use a stacked dado head cutter blade); using a router with a rab beting bit; or on a jointer or router tab le. The remainder of th e layout and sizing must be registered from th e seat top to acco mmodate spec ific si te co nditions.
INSTALL THE TOP-SHELF BACKER The re maining measurements for th e backer and shelf dim ensions are now determ ined by th e dista nce betwee n you r window casing, ve rtical layout lines, and ce iling height. T hey must be si te-meas ured for accu racy. Layout the top shelf backer (photo 12). It sho uld fit ben·veen th e cei li ng a nd t he top o f the wi ndow cCisi ng- and be t,,\lee n you r verti cal layout lines. To calcu late the top she lf backer dimen sions, measu re between th e ve rt ical layout lines. Su btract %,1> . To calcu late to p shelf backer height, measu re fro m the use the layout lines to size the top shelf backer and the top of the window cas ing to the ceili ng. S ubtract 1/8” . backers for the vertical shelf units.
Wil1dolV Seal • 85
Marking layout lines all at once using a
framing square is a good way to keep lines
parallel from shelf-to-shelf. Make sure all
bottoms are held flush during the marking
procedure.
Install the rest of the shelves taking
care to drive fasteners straight to prevent
blow-outs in the shelf stock.[nsta ll th e top she lf backer tigh t to t he ceil ing by shelf that sits di rectly above t he seat top. The top shelf fastening to st uds wit h fi nis h nails or sc rews. is insta lled late r. Layou t and cu t the backer stock . To calcu [ate FABRICATE & ASSEMBLE THE BOOKCASES the widt h, measure the distance bc(\vcc n the T he bookcases’ outs ide edges run fro m the seat-top to \vi ndow casing a nd t he vertical layout li ne, m in us 1// . the ceili ng. T he inside edges run fro m the seat-top to To calculate the height, measure the distance fro m the top of t he \v indow casi ng. Me<1s lIre a nd cu t each the seat to p to t he bottom edge of the top bac ker and vertical bookcase mem ber to le ngt h . O n a fl at su rface, subtract 11/’,”. lay a[[ t he bottoms of th e boo kcase members flus h Asse mb[e the cabinet sides and t he bac kers. This is and mark out your shelves (photo [3). Use a framing an ideal app li cation for a pneumatic 1/./ crovm stapler, squa re to mar k t hem. Keep in mind t he re is a bottom but it ca n also be done effective ly by pre-dril [ing and
86 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
5 16Hold the shelf assembly as tight as possible to the window For paint grade units, caulk any gaps that appear to make trim, seat top and wall then fasten. shadow lines disappear You can caulk the gap on paint grade shelves too. Be extra diligent in wiping down the material after caulking.
sc rewing, or by lIsing a pneu ma ti c finish na ile r. Use a sits as tightly to th e wa ll , seat top, and \vindow trim framin g sq uare as a reference to be Slire the cabinet as poss ible . Expect to make some on -site correc tion s ca rcascs a rc as sq uare as poss ible during assem bl y. as necessary to accommodate out-oF-p lumb .va ll s iVlcasure, c ut, a nd insta ll shelves at the layo ut lines or other imperfection s. Sl igh t gaps ca n be ca ulked (photo J 4). Fasten through the ca bine t carcass into the later. Re peat for t he right-side bookcase and th e n shelves. Pre-drill and co untersink jf using sc re\vs. m eas ure, c ut a nd insta ll th e top shelf. If pa int ing, caulk whe reve r necessary (photo 16) . Fill exposed INSTAll THE BOOK CASES & TOP SHELF ho les for nails an d screws, then pri me a nd paint or Butt the left bookcase to th e window trim and fasten a ppl y a nothe r nni sh of your choice. Make or bu y it to a wa ll stud wit h a few screws or na il s dr ive n a comfo rta ble seat c ushio n. Fina lly, brew a c up of thro ugh the backer (photo 15 ). Make su re the case coffee, grab a good book, a nd get busy relaxing.
Wil1dolV Seal • 87I Bed Surround H eadboards aren’t the only way to adorn the head of a bead. In deed, it ca n be dressed not on ly with form but ,vi th terri fic function . Combi ning cab inets of bed lighting creates the halo of a wa rm and calm space for sta rtin g and ending the day or tucking a\vay for a q ui ck nap. differi ng sizes and shapes provides bot h th e finis h to Before getting started, determine if YO Ll \va nt a bed- that is often th e sole do main of the attractive the option of ca bin et· mounted lights. If so, rough- but purely decorative head board-an d the util ity of in th e w ires and S,v itc h(es) prior to insta lling th e cab inets th at doubl e as both decoratio n and much ca bin ets . Once the ca binets arc on site, prep th em needed storage. before hanging by drilling th e appro pri ate holes to T he ca binets’ c lea n, deAned lines len d this Bed accommodate the \vires and house the light fixtures. Surrou nd a modern fee l while the option for a bove-
88 • TH E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUILT-INS
30'l'~A
D A
,
,,
c ,: 81"
A
c
Cutting List
Part No. Desc. Size
A 4 Wall cabinet 12 x 30"
B 2 Wall cabinet 15 x 30"
C 2 Bose cabinet 18 x 34Y1"
D 2 Countertop 1'1 " 19 x 25"
Hed S'urrolllld • 89
How to Build a Bed SurroundLAY OUT THE PROJECT C hoose the exac t locat io n for your bed sur rou nd . Mark the left a nd rig ht edges of the project area, and t hen And t he center li ne. Be very exact. Usi ng a 4 ft. leve l, plu mb u p from t he ce nter poi nt. Ma rk a p lu m b li ne (p hoto I ). T h is is the control poi nt from whi ch YOLI map out th e rest of the IaYOLIt . Meas ure 30 1/8” left a nd rig ht of th e cen te r poin t to ma rk t he ou tsi de edges of th e ho rizon ta l uppers (p ho to 2 ). D rive a 6-pc nn y nail righ t on t he ce nte rli ne to ho ld your tape.
INSTALL THE UPPER CABINETS I nsta ll a temporary ledger <:It the locCltion of t he bottom edges of t he horizo n tal cabi ne ts (81” above the Aoor in OLif project). Carefull y insta ll the ho rizontal uppers by res t ing t he m in pos ition o n the tempo rary ledgers a nd t he n d riving sc rews through the cabinet backs a nd into wall st uds (p hoto 3). If yo u discover gaps between u pper cab ine ts, create fi ll e r st ri ps to inse rt bet\veen t he cab ine ts (p hoto 4 ) an d conceal the gaps (see page 32 ). From t he outs ide edges of t he in sta lled horizon tal uppe r assembly, plum b down to t he Aoor w ith a 4-ft. level. W ith t he uppers insta ll ed, you now have rock sol id contro l po ints to p lum b dow n to t he Aoor from. T hese li nes e nable you to place the lower ca b inets acc urately a nd keep all face fra mes ti ght. Measure the base ca bi ne ts’ \vidt h to the left Draw a plumb reference line in the exact center of the and ri gh t of the p lu m b lines an d ma rk t he baseboa rd project area. fo r re m oval (photo 5). Us ing a comb ination squa re and pu ll saw, ma r k a nd re move th e base mo lding. Be ca re ful not to da mage t he wal lboa rd w he n removing the base mo lding. 2 INSTALL THE VERTICAL ELEMENTS T he base cab inets w ill nee d so me type of .. co u n terto p s urface so they can fu nc t ion as n ightstands and a lso suppo rt the vert ical upper cab ine ts. ;\Ie made part ic leboard cou ntertops \v ith p lastic la mi nate app li ed to the tops and edges. Because the s izes are re la ti vely sma ll , thi s projec t <:I lso presents <:I good oppo rtu n ity to ex peri me n t with so m e h igh ~e nd co u n tert o p mater ia ls, s u ch as gran ite or q uartz. Install t he co u nte rtops before in sta lli ng t he base cabi ne ts in the projec t a rea (p hoto 6). Insta ll t he le ft base cabinet ti gh t to the plumb li ne Mark vertical reference lines %” further out from the (p hoto 7). centerline than the horizontal cabinet height.
90 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BUlLT-l NS
3
Move the upper cabinets into position and fasten them to wall at stand locations using screws.
4
Cut and attach filler strips to the edge of one of the From the plumb line, measure out the exact width of the cabinets if there is a gap between it and its neighbor. base cabinet carcass and mark the base molding for removal.
Bed Su rrolllld • 91Install the laminate countertop on the base cabinet prior to installation. Make sure it is flush to the inside edge and back of the base cabinets and overhangs the front and outside edges.
Install the left base cabinet tight to the plumb line. Drive screws into a stud at both the top and bottom of the cabinet carcase.
92 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUILT-INS
On top of the left base cabi net, mOll nt the firstvert ical uppe r tigh t to t he plumb li ne. Be carefu l of th e lami nate countertop durin g installation. Mount th e second vert ica l uppe r tight to th e first. Make su re the face frames are Aush. Shim the back as necessary and make sure to catch wa ll studs wi th the fasteners (p hoto 8). Repeat these steps for the base ca binet on th e right side.
JOIN THE CABINETS T he horizontal uppers and ve rti cal uppers shou ld be at th e same height. If so, Aush up and fasten th e face frames (photo 9). If the ca bin et gangs are not Aush, a djust the horizo ntcd uppers to mate \vith t he left a nd right vertical gangs . O nce Aush in all directions, fasten t he face frames a nd secu re to th e wa ll (p hoto 10). Install (or have installed) th e light fix tu res a nd swi tches. Remove the temporary ledger, patch drY’.va ll , Sometimes shims are required to keep face frames tight cau lk, and trim cabinet bases as required . Sand and and flush, due to irregularities in the wall surface. Insert shims spot-tollch the hnishes . behind the cabinets as needed and remove excess shim material after installation.
9 10
Fasten the face frames of the vertical uppers to the Once the face frames are fastened together, attach the horizontal uppers. Pre-drill and countersink before driving wall cabinets securely to the wall with screws driven through screws. the cabinet backs at stud locations.
Bed Surrolllld • 93I Loft Bed I f you had- or wa nted- a loft bed back in college or in your first apartment, then this is a project yo u’re going to like. But your kjds will probab ly li ke it more fo r yo unge r kids. VVhi le YO LI ca n ma ke the bed to yo ur own specification s follow ing t he techniques below, the bed des ign he re is based on a tw in-sized mattress, because it’s cool, fun , and t heir fr iends probably ,\ro n ‘t v” hi ch is 39” x 75 ”, have one. T he outside dim e nsio ns of the bed frame a re T hi s loft bed is designed to ope n lip fl oo r space 48 3/.. ” X 80”, wh ic h all O,vs roo m up to p fo r books, a usually co nsu med by a bed. It a lso provides a location drink, and a little ext ra room for th e bedding to drapc underneath it for a kid or kid s to play, do activi ti es or w hen the bed is ma de . Your little princess or prince set up a desk. An d , it because it ties in with the wa ll , wi ll love cl imbing the ladder to get in bed. it ca n wor k for kid s of all ages. Safety Note: Never attach hooks or handles to the Because YO LI ca n tie into th e \va ll , t hi s loft bed loft bed and do not hang ite1lls lr01I1- it, including rope probabl y has a little more oomp h th an th e o ne YOLI and belts. Children can catch thenlselves on these ite111.s mig ht have buil t with yo ur old roumnlelte. And, <! when. playing or in the event that {In accidental fall bllilt ~ i n safety rail ad ds a n ext ra laye r of protect ion occurs.
94 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Tools Mi te r S3\Y Table saw Ci rcular saw Drill/driver Level Stud finder Hammer Tape measure Nail set Pneumatic nailer/compressor Hauter and bits Sander Carpenter’s square Shooting board Of straightedge
Materials (2) W’ x 4 x 8 ft. maple pl)~vood (6) I x 2 x 8 ft. maple (4) lx6x8ft. maple (3) 2 x 2 x 8 ft. pine Brass screws ”‘,lith gromm et washers Deck screws Trim head ,‘ood screVl’s Finish ing materials
Cutting List Part No. Desc. Size Material Part No. Desc. Size Material A Box front Y. x Bx BO” Maple plywood J 10 Roil post %X1 V2X 4 I x 2 maple B Box end- left Y. x Bx 4B” Maple plywood K ladder leg-short %x WI X 59W’ I x 6 maple e Box bock %x5%x78W Maple plywood L ladder leg-long %x 5V1 x 79W’ I x 6 maple D Box end-right %x5%x48 Maple plywood M 6 ladder rung Y. x IV, x 24 I x 2 maple E Box bottom Y. x 4B x BO” Maple plywood N ladder filler %x 5Vlx 6W’ I x 6 maple F 2 Box/roil cop-front 0/4 x ]111 x 80” I x 2 maple 0 8 ladder filler Jh x 51/1 x lOY?” I x 6 maple G 2 Box cop-end ¥. x 1’1, x 48” I x 2 maple p ladder filler JI. x 51/1 X 31/1 I x 6 maple H Box cop- bock %x 11/2 X 78 1/2 I x 2 maple Q CleoHong ] lh x 11/1 X 79 1/4 2 x 2 maple (or pine) Roil cop-end %x 11h x 30 ,41 I x 2 maple R (leoHhort 1’/, x l’h x45 2 x 2 maple (or pine)
Lof' Red • 95
How to Build a Loft Bed
1once you’ve determined the height you want the mattress cut stock using a circular saw and straightedge guide, to be, strike a level line indicating the bottom of the mattress and stack it neatly. Label each piece (magic marker on blue support box. painters tape works) to make identifying it later easier.
LAY OUT THE WALL CLEATS hoi sted into position on th e wa ll c leats w hen you’ve Determine the length, width , and location of th e bed taken it as far as it makes sense to go. The two si des frame . P lan you r layout so that once the mattress is of the box that face o ut into the room are “rider in , you have 4” to 6” all the way around it inside the than the two th at go aga inst the wa ll s because the mattress box, providing room for bedd ing and other room-s ide of the box needs to conceal the c leats thin gs. Ma rk a level line o n both walls at the botto m that support the plywood box bottom. T hese clea ts of the mattress box (photo I). (the room side ones) a rc attac hed to the frame first and the other two are attached to the walls first. BUILD THE MATTRESS BOX The plywood bottom is butted agai nst the room sides The mattress box is fabricated from 3// thick maple of the box frame , and is Rush \vith the outs ide edges plywood, which creates a clean, mode rn look once of the wa ll si des of the frame. The top edges of the insta ll ed a nd finished . Maple is also a very stab le box are covered wit h I X 2 maple on-edge, ,vhich material t hat delivers dependa bl e mec han ica l a lso se rves as th e bottom rail of th e ra iling on the connectio ns for assemb ly. A nd , because vve can room s ides. make pa nels larger theln wi th dimensiona l lumber, I1ip-eut th e four box frame sides from ‘ii’ maple we create a nest for the mattress to set inside that plyv/Ood, using a tablesaw or a circ ul ar saw and resul ts in a c u rb that will he lp keep ch ildren safe at straightedge cu ttin g guide (photo 2). No te that th e n ight. The box shou ld be assemb led as co mpl e te ly t,VO frame sides that go against the wa ll are 21//1 as possib le on th e grou nd (in your s hop ) a nd then narrowe r than the ones fac ing the room.
96 • THE COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
The fastener sc he me we c hose fo r this bed is to tackth e parts togeth er w ith glu e and pneumat ic nail s, then 3
reinforce with brass screws an d gro mmetsty l e was he rs
once things arc squared up (the brass sc rews on ly need
to be used on visi ble surfaces) . Join the corners of the
box wi th glue and sc rews (photo 3). The two exposed
s ides should co nceal the e nd gra in of the side they’re
attached to. \t\1ork on a large, flat surface ,vith the box
sides ups id edO\vn so th eir top edges are even.
Cut th e c lea ts to length from 2 X 2 pine sto ck.
Attac h c lea ts to the bottom inside faces of the exposed
box sides, Aush with th e botto m edges of th e box
(photo 4). Use g lue and brass \vooc! screw’s dri ve n at
8” interval s to sec ure th e cleClts.
Once the cleats are in place, c ut the mattress
box bottom to size and attac h it to the cleats that
are co nn ec ted to th e room sides of th e box. Dri ve 211
dc c k sc rews through the plywood bottom an d into the
c lea ts, spaced no more th an 12” a pa rt (photo 5). At
th e wa ll -s ides of th e box, th e pl )~vood bottom should
be Aush with th e o uts ide edges of th e box. Also dri ve
2” deck or wa llb oard screws into th e ply’\vood box
e dges on thi s side.
C ut 3 2 X 2 stiffe ne rs “nd posit ion the m on the Join the corners of the mattress box with glue and a few nails
undersides of th e plywood. The e nds should be flu s h or with glue and clamps, and then rei nforce each joint with
agai nst th e room side cleat. Tac k in place and th e n three #8 x 2’h” brass wood screws. Space the screws evenly.
attach by dri ving screws throu gh the top of th e plywood. we added decorative grommet-style brass washers instead of
counterboring and plugging the screw holes.
5Attach the cleats that support the mattress box bottom to Attach the plywood mattress box bottom by driving the two sides of the box that face the room. screws through the plywood and into the two cleats mounted inside the box. Also drive screws through the box bottom and into the back and right end edges of the box.
Lo!t Red • 97
Run the top edges of the j x 2 map le stock for cap and in to the bottom ends of the posts. Then,the railing and edge caps parts through a router table attach the box caps with attac he d posts to the front fitted wit h a 1// roundover bit. Cut the box caps, cap an d left sides of the mattress box, llsing glue a nd 3” rails and rail posts to length (use a stop block on you r trim -head wood sc re’vs dri ven dovm through th e top power miter saw to make uniform length pieces). edges of the box ca ps and into th e box at t 211 inte rvals Attac h the I x 2 caps to the back e dge and ri ght end (photo 7). (the wa ll sides) with glue and Anish nails (drill pilot Next, attach the fCli ling caps to the tops of the hole for the Anish na ils if ha nd -dr iving them ). Before railing posts wit h glue and trimheCld wood screws attaching the fro nt and left side box caps, layou t driven down through th e rail caps and into the posts. positions for the railing posts accord in g to the diCigram Make sure the posts are a li gned \vith th e refe rence on page 95 (photo 6). For best accuracy, gang~ma rk lines you marked for their positions. F in ish-sand th e th e post locations on the rail caps a nd box caps. mattress box (you may wa nt to back out the sc rews a Attach each post to the box caps at ma rked ways to get underneath the grom mets), It’s best to wait locations, usi ng glue and two 3” deck screws or unti l a ll parts are built so you ca n apply Anish at the wood screws driven up through pilot holes in the box sa me tim e
Layout the locations for the rail ing posts on the mating ra il After screwing the railing posts to the box caps, attach the and box caps so you’ ll be sure they’re aligned perfectly. assemblies to the front and left sides of the mattress box using counterbored trim-head wood screws.
98 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS
..··g .....
.........
........ ..
· . .......
... .. ... .. ..Shape the bullnose profiles into the top edges of your 1 x 2 The ladder is a 3-ply assembly. The short leg is the first rung stock before cutting the rungs to length. layer. Next come the ladder blocks that run parallel to the leg. After you install a ladder block. you install a rung perpendicular to it, working your way down the ladder- block, rung. block, rung, etc. Make sure the blocks are flush to the edges of the leg and that the rungs are held tight to the blocks. use glue and screws (or pneumatic nails).
Adding a Ceiling ~
The bottom edges of the front side and left end of the mattress box are still exposed plywood edge grain . There are a
couple of ways of dealing with this. One is to conceal the edges with heat-activated maple veneer tape. Or, you can tack
on additional strips of maple 1 x 2. But we chose to create a "ceiling" for the area underneath the loft bed by attaching a
sheet of tempered W' hardboard to the underside of the box.MAKE THE LADDER Cu t t he ladde r legs a nd ladd e r b locks to le ngth T he ladder/pos t is made from bui lt-up I X 6 map le fro m I x 6 map le stock. Arra nge t he sho rte r legs on a boa rd s . T he run gs arc I x 2 map le boards with bull - Ra t surface wi th th e ou tside edges 24” apa rt a nd th e nose d edges. To sim plify th e mac hining, c ut th e e nd Au sh. Ma ke sure legs stay para llel at a ll tim es . bu ll noses by proA ling a ll fou r edges of you r 8-ft. I x 2 Install th e 6’1,’ b locks first Aus h wi th th e top ends stock o n a ro ute r ta bl e ntted with a %” ro undove r bit of th e legs. Use glue a nd a coup le of Anis h na il s or (photo 8) . The rungs should have CI more pro nounced pne um a ti c na ils to secu re th e blocks. T hen begin bullnose th a n the top of t he I x 2 box ca ps. T he n c ut v\lork,j ng dow nwa rd , ad d ing fu ngs and bloc ks acco rd ing th e ru ngs to le ngth .v ith a m ite r smv or power m ite r to th e d i”gram 0 11 page 95 (photo 9). smv (3 sto p b loc k is a good idea fo r e n su ring uniform length s).
Loft Red • 99
Faste n th e longe r legs ove r t he asse mb ly,
· . . .. ..
'1'0 "
...
·.. .. ... . ..
.. ,' . .. . .
'
sa nd\vic h ing the blocks and rlln g ends be twee n I x 6
.....
......., .." . legs (photo 10). The extra 15" of le ngth shou ld be a t
.... ... .. th e to p of th e longe r legs .
.........
·. , ...... .
· . .. . . . .
.........
.." ,.... .. INSTALL THE LOFT BED
.. .... .....
. ... ..
'
.. ..... Be fo re in sta lling t he loft bed , a pp ly yo ur fi nish of
.........
... c ho ice (a few coats of durable po lyure th ane varn ish
. ...
.. . ., ..
." . ..... .. is a good option). Pre ~asse mbl e th e long side c leat
....
........ . .... ...
....
... .. .. . and short side c leat into a n L~ s h ape, using glue a nd
....... ... 3" dec k sc rews . Attac h th e cleat to the \.va ll at th e
m attress box layo ut lines . App ly pa nel adh es ive to th e
back faces of t he c leats before insta lling. Attac h wi th
3/8 x 3 h" coun te rsun k lag sc re\vs \,vit h was he r at eac h
1
st ud loca tio n (photo j I).
C la m p a lo ng 2 x 4 to th e fro nt face of th e
mattress box so th e 2 x 4 w ill s up port t he fro nt
a t ro ugh ly t he co rrec t he ight \,v he n it is insta ll ed.
With a co u p le of he lpe rs (or more ), ra ise th e box
a nd res t th e bac k and right end on th e wa ll s c lea ts,
m a king su re t he box is sq ua re to th e co rn e rs an d
Attach the long outer legs to the blocks. rungs and short Rus h agai ns t t he wa ll s . Pl ace a level on th e box a nd
legs, ensuring that the bottoms and sides are flush. Glue adj ust th e c la mp a nd 2 x 4 brace so th e box is leve l
and screw securely with flat head brass wood screws and (photo j 2 ).
decorative grommet-type washers.
11 12
,.
'-' '.
?
pre-assemble the wall cleats into an L-shape and fasten Check with a 4 ft. level across the corner of the box near
them to the wall studs with lag screws and adhesive. the ladder location to make sure the box is level on both sides.100 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
13
••Position the ladder at the corner of the front and left side Secure the bottom of the ladder/corner post by attaching a edges. The rung layer and short leg layer should fit snugly cleat to the floor behind the ladder legs. underneath the box, since the ladder will serve as a corner support post. Attach the ladde r to the rnattress box.
Once the mattre ss box is leve l, face-nail through a post) to the mattress box (photo 13). Locate th ethe front and left ends of the box and into the wa ll screws so they hit the 2 x 2 cleat at the bottom , in side c leats to ho ld the bed in place. After th e ladde r is edge of the box. AJso dri ve a few counte rsunk 2” secu red “m el attached to the bed it ,v ill be safe enough screv/s dovm through th e plywood box bottom Cl nd in to to go topside and drive some nai ls through the box the top e nds of the s hort legs. bottom and in to the ,va ll cleats . DOLIb l e~chec k the ladder to make SLIre it is plum b and th en sc rew the sixth ladder rLIng to the INSTALL THE LADDER floor, direc tl y behi n d t he bottom of t he ladde r, Position the ladder under th e mattress support box. laying Rat (photo 14 ). The ends of t he rungs shou ld lvIake su re that the right side of the ladder is Rush be flush w ith the outside faces of th e ladde r legs. wit h the long, outsi de e dge of the mattress support Dri ve sc rews or na il s through th e rungs and in to box. Plumb it and fasten us in g glue and screws. The the bottom s of the legs to prevent the ladder from short legs of the ladder create a ledge to he lp support moving. A lso ClttClc h the top end s of the long ladder the free e nd of th e box. legs to th e top railing caps w ith tri m- head screws . Drive 3 1/ / brass scrclwvs with gromme t wash e rs Dri ve a few extra na il s throu gh th e box bottom and through t he ladder le g a nd upper ladder block at 8” into th e cleats, remove the temporary 2 x 4 brace, intelVa ls to sec ure the ladder (which functions as and add your mattress.
Loft Red • 101I Country Diner iners are traditiona l morning and late-night your fami ly. Wh ile .ve’ve llsed ply\vood for the benc h D ga th e ring spots, we ll-loved for being bright, su ppo rts, we wrapped it in war me r whi te pi ne that can fri endly, and upbea t. They have bee n gracious ly be left clea r, painted , or pic kl ed. The sea tboards a nd Izjcking off our days for ge nerations \lith hot food, tabletop are made fro m edge-glued pine, but you can grea t coffee and .varm co mpa ny. choose other mate rial s if yo u prefer. At home, breakfast noo ks e mulating din e r boot h The tongue-a nd-groove pine pane ling ‘vrapp ing de signs and ambience a rc traditi ona l gath ering spo ts the benches adds co ntour a nd shado w lines while for morning coffee, preparing for th e day a head , or th e bench’s bac k grows right out of the seat. T he qu iet evening conversa ti o ns with th e fami ly. Bu t ascend ing mode rn line delive rs a slee k shape whi le at-home breakfast nooks have traditionall y bee n the w ide bench ca p provides a ni ce capita l a long wi th in te rpre ted as dark-stai ned , hard-edged plyv/Ood and a flat surface. The modern su rface looks like it mi ght somewhat monol ithic designs. They lack the spunk, o nce have supported ,vhite cerami c coffee c ups a nd pop, a nd zip of the local dine r a nd ca ll overpO”le r a short-s ta c ks back when din e rs loo ked li ke train ca rs, small s pace. yet it’s mode rn and to ugh eno ugh to stand u p to busy The Country Diner com bines the fee l of th e sma ll - fam ilies t hat ,v ill use the co untry d ine r fo r a lot more town din e r with a modern Ra re that keeps up wi th than b rea kfast.
102 • TH E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Tools Materials Tablesav” Counters in k F in ish materials 2) 3/; x 4 ft. x 8 ft. plywood Circular saw and Combination sq uare (6) tab leto p clips 10) I x 4” x 8 ft. pi ne shooting board Framing square (2) Metal L-brackets 2) 1 X 8” X 8 ft. pinc Jig saw i\II iter saw Sc rews 7) 1 X 10” X 8 ft. pinc Tape measure Table saw Na ils 1) I X 12” X 8 ft . pine Cord less d rill/driver C lue 7) 3/8 x 3’12” X 8 ft. pine 2) 2 x 8” x 10ft. pine bead-board 4) 2 x 4” x 8 ft. pine
Cutting List Key Part No. Size Material Key Part No. Size Material A Bench upright 4 1’1, x 5Y, x 50 Rip from 2 x 8 Tobie strut/front 1 l’I, x3x28 Rip from 2 x 4 B Bench support 6 V.x lB x l8 Plywood J Tobie strut/ledger 3 1’/,x3x24 Rip from 2 x 4 C Bench strut 10 ¥. x 31h x 60 lx4 K Apron 2 J;4x 3x52 V4 Rip from 1 x 4 D Seot buck [UP 2 %x 7 x 61 Vl lxB L Tobie leg·front %x 1111. x 29 V4 Cut from 1 x 12 E Seot boords 4 V.x 9 x 61 Y, 1 x 10 (edge gluel M Tobie leg buck %x ll l/. x 26 V4 Cut from 1 x 12 F Buck ponel 2 ¥.x I8x57 Plywood N Tobletop boords 3 ‘i. xl0x60 Cut from 1 x 12 G 8uck cleot 8 0/4 X 3/4 X 18 Pine 0 T&G clodding %x6xcuttofil Beodboord H Buck cleut 4 1’4 X¥’ X2 1/4 Pine
COlllllry Di ller • 103
How to Build a Country Diner
MAKE THE BENCH FRAMES a ci rcular saw and jig sa"v, YO LI can lise the first be nc h
The framework for th e diner benches is made by support as a patte rn for markin g an d cuttin g the
fabricating six identical bench supports from p lywood ot he rs.
(three per bench ). The supports are notched to accept Cut ten 3 1h" by 5-ft.-long struts from I X 4 pine.
five 1 x 4 st rut s thelt tie the sup ports together <Jnd Then, to make th e legs, cu t %" plywood into six
provide flailing surfa ces for the tongue-and-groove identical J 8 x J 8" blanks. Taper one of the bl anks J"
cladding. It's important that the bench supports be at each side, so the top edge is J6" lo ng (photo I ).
identical so th e notches al ign co rrectly (othen,vise th e Lay Ollt t he 3/4 X 3 1h" notches for t he struts
benches won't be square). The best way to make this according to th e diagram on page I 03. Cut the
happen is by fabri cating a pattern that wi ll serve as notches with a jig saw (photo 2). Clean up cut edges
the template for cutting the other pieces. For greatest on the first bench support with a sande r, then use the
accuracy, use a route r and a template bit to cut the first support as a pattern for laying out the taper lines
bench suppo rt s. But if yo u are reasonab ly handy w ith and notches on the rest of the \vorkpieces.
Use a circular saw and straightedge
guide to make taper cuts on the first
bench support.
Carefully cut strut notches using a jig
saw. See drawing for locations. Using a
cut-off from a strut as a tracing pattern will
help you get accurate cuts.104 • THE COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUlLT-l NS
Startin g with the to p stru t, attac h th e strut s to the 2 x 8 stock. Ma ke sure to take stock from eac h sidebe nch support s, spac ing th e middl e be nch support so you remove the slight bu llnose edges that are cut exactly m id way in eac h benc h frame (photo 3) . Use at th e lu mber mil l. Se t yo ur pO\ver mi ter smv to m<Jke glue an d wood screws dri ven in counters unk pilot 12 degree cuts. T rim th e ends in parallel cuts to Cllt ho les to a ttac h th e struts to th e benc h supports . th e upri ghts to le ngt h (photo 4). Attach th e upri ghts F inall y, cut th e uprights. As shown, they are to th e ins ide faces of the outer be nch supports, sized to be rip -c ut to Rn ishecl size ( J ‘12 x 5’12”) fro m accordi ng to the placement in fo rmation on page 103.
Assemble the frames for the benches
by attaching the struts to the bench
supports with glue and screws. Take care
to keep everything square.
use a miter saw to cleanly cut the
angled seat upright prior to installation.
COlllllry Diller • 105
ADD THE BENCH BACKS v,lood glue or ad hesive and lay the pa nels in to the
The backs of the benches arc made by installing a L-s haped brackets created by the two cleats (pho to 6).
plywood back board between the uprights and then Drive cou nte rsunk 11/", " sc re\'vs th ro ugh the back panel
cladding the backboard on both faces with tongue-a nd- and into the long cleat. I nsta ll the re main ing trim
groove pa nel ing. Start by cutting the cleat that you'll pieces around the plywood seat backer.
use to anchor the back board from I X stock. Cut e ight
cleats (4 for each bench) to 18" and cut four to 2'/.". CLAD THE BENCHES
Install a short cleat and a long cleat in an L-s hape on T he bases and backs of the benches are clad wit h
th e inside face of each upright (photo 5). The top of the pi ne tongue-an d-groove paneling (sometimes called
long c leat should be Rush with th e top of the up right. carsiding) . Because the paneli ng on the en ds of the
Us ing a ta ble saw or a ci rcula r saw and shooting benches that face the room concea ls the ir edges,
board, cut the back pa nels to s ize. Apply a bead of insta ll the panel ing that's attached to t he benc h
Fabricate an L-shape to accept the
plywood bench back, then attach it to a
bench upright.
A plywood backer gives the bench
back its rigidity. Install the backer using
adhesive and fasteners.106 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS
<:I long its le ngth fi rst. C ut t he first pa neli ng boa rd App ly panel ing to the front and back of th e bench to le ngth so the bottom end is sligh tl y above the base. To clad the bench ends (yo u o nly need to clad floo r a nd the to p e nds are fl us h with the tops of the the end th at will face the room), hold a panel ing boa rd benc h sup ports (the top ends wi ll be concealed by up against t he end and trace the angled edge onto th e the sea tboard overhang). Then. trim off the groove back side of the paneli ng (photo 8). C ut a long thi s to create a sol id wood edge at t he end of the bench. line. Instal l this piece flus h to the bench en d. Fasten I f you ovm <:I pneumatic nail er, use it to drive nail s an d com plete paneling installatio n fo r the benc h th rough the tongue of the first pa neling board. base. Also insta ll tongue-an d-groove panel ing boards O th erwise, hand· nai l with 4d or 6d fin ish nails and on th e fro nt an d bac k sides of each back pane l. T he set the heads with a nail se t. D rive at leas t one nail boards s hou ld be flus h with th e top and bottom of the into each strut th at the pane ling board is posi ti oned plywood bac k pa ne l. over (photo 7).
Begin installing the tongue·and·
groove cladding on the base of the
bench . You'll find many options, but %".
thick paneling (sold in 14 sq. ft. packages)
is an economical choice.
Trace the angle of the tapered bench
onto the back side of a piece of paneli ng
and tri m it to fit.
CO lllll ry Di ller • 107
Edge-glue two 9" wide boards to
9 make each seat board, and glue up three
10" boards for the tabletop. Use a biscuit
joiner to help ensure that the boards are
aligned and level.
)
Mark the cutout locations for the
uprights onto the seatboard and cut them
with a jig saw
Cut the seat back cap to length from I X 8 stock it is not necessary to use splines, biscu its or dowels
an d attac h it to t he tops of the up ri gh ts a nd to t he to re in force th e edge g lued joi nts, but any of t hese
top of the benc h back us ing glue and na ils. The ca p devices wi ll ass ist wit h al ignme nt. v\le used a biscuit
s hould overhang the front up ri ght by abou t I lhll and joiner to al ign the glue-ups for bot h be nches and
be Aush vvit h the end of the bench that goes against t he tab letop. Use at least t h ree or four pipe clamps
the wa ll. w ith jav,l paddi ng to cla mp eac h glue- u p together
(pho to 9 ).
MAKE THE SEATBOARDS & TABLETOP Afte r th e glue has dried overn ight, remove the
Both th e seatboards and t he tab letop are co nstruc ted clamps a nd sand t he glue-ups to remove any d ried
by edge-glu ing pine boards toge ther. If you have glue squeeze-out.
access to a woodwor king s hop, you' ll wa nt to joint t he T he seat board must be no tched to fit mound t he
edges of t he boa rds be fore you gl ue them toget her. up rights. Positio n t he board s o n the seat base, Au sh
O thenvise, make a n ice, cl ei:1Il rip-c ut alo ng each at t he \va ll end an d overhanging abou t 11/2 11 on t he
edge \\lith a sharp circ ulur saw blade. For strength, room- side end . Mark th e location of the uprights o nto108 • TH E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
1 t ::::::: … j … Attach the seatboards to the bench base with tabletop clips that secure glued- up panels but also allow for some wood
4']:
t •••••
There are many tricks you can use12 to conceal the gap at the bottom of the cladding, as well as the ragged ends of the tongue-and-groove boards. A skilled woodworker would bevel-rip trim moldings and install them with compound miter joints.
th e seat boa rd s, then re move them and ma ke cutouts the backs of the benc hes. Make sure the wood grain with a j ig saw (photo 10 ). on th e fill e r strips has th e same orien tat ion as th e T ip the bench so th e end that goes against the seatboards. wa ll is Aa t on the Aoor. Attac h a pa ir of tabletop As a last finishing deta il for t he benches (ot he r clips to the inside of the bench base nem eac h end, than sa nding, p<:I inting O f sta ining), attach some type and a coup le more on eac h side . (Tab le top c lips a rc of wood trim to concea l th e ga p betwee n th e tonguc- so ld a t woodwor kin g sto res an d in woodworkin g an d -groove board s an d the fl oor. If yo u use very catalogs. T hey offer a means for faste nin g tab letops small mo lding, such as sc reen retainer or vc ry na rrow and benchtops, while still allowing for some ,“,vood base s hoe, you ca n probabl y get 3\vay with attaching moveme nt. ) Atta ch the seat board from undern e ath the moldin g as is, using butt joints at the co rn ers. using th e tab le top clips (photo 11 ). Bu t fo r larger moldings (and fo r a more profess ional Set the benches back down in the ir co rrect appea ra nce) yo u’ll need to bevel-rip th e moldin g to ori e ntation . C ut filler strips of 3/4!1~ thi c k pine and allow for th e ta per of th e be nch base, as well as ma ke glue th em into th e ga ps between th e upri ghts an d compound miter jo ints at th e co rn ers (p hoto 12).
COlllll ry Diller • 109
cut two identical leg halves, then trim 3"
13 off the back one and face glue it with the
front half to make a laminated table leg.
Attach the ledger for the tabletop to
the wall with heavy-duty fasteners, such
as counterbored lag screws driven at stud
locations.
MAKE & INSTALL THE TABLE (29'/,"), tapering from 4 " at the top to th e full wid th of
T he Co untry Di ne r ta ble is designed to be affixed the I X 12 ( 11 '//) a t th e bottom . Ma ke th e bac k ha lf-of
to a wall , su pporte d b y a le dger boa rd on the wa ll the lami nated leg identical to th e front, bu t th en trim
side while a leg fun s to t he Aoor o n t he ent ry side. off th e top 3" to c reate a le dge for th e front ta bletop
T he length an d wid th o f th e tabl e are adj ustable st rut (photo 13). Attach th e ledgers (photo 14).
to sllit you r pa rti cu lar set~u p but th e fabr ication liip -e u t 2 x 4 pi ne stock to 3" wide to make all
tech niqu es are th e same. The dimens ions spec ified four tabletop struts. Also rip-c ut so me I x 4 stock for
in the drawing arc 30" \.vide and 5 Fe long. T he top the tv<'O Clp rons. C ut the front stru t to 281! lo ng Cl nd
of the table s urface is 3 0" above the Aoo r. Struts c u t th e n clip th e bottom corners to give th e table both
from 2 x 4 pine a re added beneath t he tab le for bot h some "lift" and to create leg room as yo u enter the
loo ks a nd stab ility. \A/e c hose to gl ue up a ru stic p ine booth. C ut the ledger and the in ner struts to 24" long.
tabletop (w hi c h s hou ld ge t ma ny coats of po lyu ret ha ne Also cu t the aprons to 52 1/4" long from the 1 x 4 stock.
va rni sh). You may prefe r to have a ta ble top fabr icated Locate exac tl y w he re you r table w ill be fastened to
fro m so lid ~s llrfac i ng, quartz or na tural stone. yo ur wa ll by arrang ing th e location of yo ur be nches
Layo ut an d c ut th e leg fro m I X 12 pine. The an d then cen tering th e tab le between th e m. Us ing a
front ha lf of the face-glued leg should run full height ca rdboa rd cut·out to tai lor exactl y where you wan t th e110 • TH E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Assemble the table frame all at once15 on a flat surface.
Clamp the table leg to the front strut
temporarily and check the tabletop for
level. Attach the leg to the strut with glue
and screws.table and ben ches also ,viil help YO ll clistomi ze yo ur Attac h th e tab letop to th e struts with one tabl etop din er. Once YO ll find th e ce nter of the tab le location, cl ip near each end of each strut. Cla mp the leg to the find th e center of the ledger board a nd mark it. When front strut an d rest th e other end of the tab letop on installing th e ledger board, line up th ese two ma rks the wall ledger, w hi ch shou ld fit between the free ends for a perfect fit. At the ledger board location , strike a of th e apro ns (photo J 6). Adjust the height of the leg level line 29’/,” above th e Aoor. Find and mark the wa ll if necessary, and t hen attach it to the front stru t wit h st ud locatio ns- try to \oc<1te the ledger so it spa ns t\VO glue an d screws. Drive screws through the ap ro ns in to stud s. In sta ll the ledger on layout using glue and the the ends of the ledger. proper fasteners (photo 14). Idea lly, usc a %” X 3’h” countc rborcd lag sc rew dri ve r throu gh the ledge r and APPLY FINISH, POUR COFFEE into wa ll studs, plus add itional sc rews and/or togg les T he Co untry Dine r is shO\vn here with a light wood to stab ilize the ledge r. stain a nd high gloss polyurethane finish for ease On <:I nat surface, assemble the table frame of clea nin g. Le t all adhes ives, Ilnis h a nd pClint d I)’ by capturi ng th e short struts bet,veen the apro ns thoroughly befo re si ttin g dO>vn at the Country Dine r (p hoto 15). The front strut sho uld be attached to th e fo r a slO.v h o m e~cooked breakfast and tim e we ll spen t apron s w it h L-b rac kets on t he inside joint. w it h fami ly an d friends .
COlllllry Di,ler . 111I Wall Niche wa ll niche is kin d of c ubby ho le carved into a that th ese ni c hes a re inte nd e d for non-load bea ri ng A stud wa ll , us uall y to house display she lvin g. T hese wa ll s. If t he ni c he you wish to c reate wou ld invo lve da ys, they are often see n as prefash ioned inserts ,vith cutting framin g membe rs in a load beari ng ,vall, an arc h shape and Greco- Roman styling in higher- co nsider redesignin g t he project so you do not have end hOLising, ofte n with classical sta tu ary with in th e to c ut wa ll stud s. i\llaking st ru ctural a lterations to a n ic he sides . T he niche shovm he re is a ra th e r diffe re nt load -bea ring wa ll sho uld be done only by qualifie d animal. It is simply a wooden box that you s li p into a profess iona ls . ho lc in th e wa ll an d then tri m out. As a qui c k and e asy It’s a lso im porta nt to be awa re of a ny electri ca l sto rage p roject, it is a perfect accompan iment to our wires or gas or wate r p lumbing near your projec t area. Fast Country Diner proj ect (see pages J 02 to J J J). Check to see if there a re li ght switches or p lugs above A niche creates <1 perfect spot to stas h napkin or be low th e nic he open ing befo re cuttin g ;md try to ho lde rs, salt a nd pep per shakers a nd oth e r tab lewa re de du ce \vhe re plumbing mi ght be routed and located . so yo ur tab le surface is clea r for ea tin g, re laxin g or Safety Notice: TI,.is project should be installed only doin g a bi t of ho mewo rk. in non.loadbearing walls. Do not cut 1I7all studs in load The ste ps, ski lls an d tool s desc ribe d here ca n hearing 1I7alls unless you are 1I70rki-ng 1I7ith a certified be used to c reate wa ll ni c hes of va riou s sizes a nd in building engineer or professional carpenter. numerous locatio ns . It is importa nt to note, however,
112 • T H E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUlLT-l NS
Tools Materials DrY’Nall/plastcr cu tting saw Countersink Ix6 Reciproca ti ng sa’v DrY’,va ll finishing tool s Trim- head sc rews Co rdl ess drill/driver 2-foot leve l 1/4” birch plywood scra p C ircu lar $m,,· Aviato r sn ips 1%, ” d ry,.vall sc re’vs i\lliter S3\V Case mo lding Paint
Cutting List
Part No. Dese. Size Material
A 2 Top/bottom %x 3%X 25 Y2" Hordwood/MDF
B 2 Side 3/4 x 3% x 8" Hordwood/MDF
C Bock %x 91/2x 25 Y1" Plywood
D 4 Trim (opt.) lh x 2 7/a" x miter to fit (ose molding
Hl1l1 Nie/Ie • 113
How to Build a Wall Niche
LAY OUT THE NICHE MAKE THE CUTOUT
Determine that the wal l you're cutting into is not a Turn off electrical power at the main circuit breaker.
load-bearing wall. Determine the opening's finished Use a dr)1\vall saw or rec iprocating saw to cut along the
location and height and \vidth. An 8" tall by 24" wi de cut line. Make the cut as sha llow as you can in case
n ic he is just the right scale fo r the kitc hen booth there are hidden w ires or pipes in t he wall (p hoto 2).
project we designed this ni c he to acco mpany (see Re move th e drywall, expos ing t he wa ll studs.
page 102). Use a 2·ft . level and mark al l fou r sides of More than like ly, yo u're going to have a wa ll stud or
th e opening plumb an d leve l at t he finished loca tion. t\VO somew here in th e middle of the opening. Use a
T hese lines arc the co ntrol points for all ot her reciprocating saw to remove th e studs . Or, you ca n
measurements. usc a c ircula r saw to start the cut (photo 3a), ca refull y
Measure 3/:.'1out from each control point line aligning it with the edge of the drywall and using it to
(photo j ). Do t his at two points on each line and cut the stud. Then, finish the c ut with a reciprocating
con nect the dots using a 2-ft. level. saw (photo 3b). Be carefu l not to c ut t hrough t he
drywa ll on the back side of the cut.
2
Start your layout by mapping out the niche's finished With electrical power turned off, cut the opening in the
dimensions, then measure out from there for the rough wall covering. Use caution in case there are hidden wires or
opening where you will make your cuts. This is the cut line. pipes in the area.
use a circular saw to start the stud cut, then use a
reciprocating saw to fin ish the cut. This method is easier on the
drywall- especially if the studs back up to another room- and
provides a straighter cut.114 • T HE COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT·1NS
Rip-cut the niche frame boards to width.
Cutting them so th ey stop just short of the
opposite wallcovering when installed.
Assemble the niche box. Drill5 countersunk pilot holes for the screws.
vVhen removing stud s, you may pull a faste ner BUILD THE NICHE BOXthrough from a n adjo ining roo m and have to repair Measure the depth of yo ur wa ll cavity a nd su btract th at afte rwa rd s . Na il s or screws may be penetrating ‘hl! f rom the overa ll depth to give yo urself (l little bit from t he other side of the wa ll into th e stud . Ca re full y of Aexibil ity vI/hen insta lling the ni che and to <:tllow remove the stud sec tio n. It is like ly that re moving fo r the th ic kn ess ( ’//) of t he backer materia l. This the stud section will cause th e fastener to pull m easu re m e nt yie lds the requi re d w id t h of th e boa rds thro ugh t he oppos ite s ide of the wa ll , so touc h -up yo u’ll use to make th e ni c he box. Rip- c ut I X 6 X 8 may be necessary. Fo r most no n -loadbearing w<:I lI s lumber to t he required w idth , usi ng a tab lcsav” o r a th e compe te d ni c he box s hould provide adeq uate ci rc ul a r smv w ith a st ra ighte dge gu ide (photo 4). Cut su ppo rt fo r the cut stud s. But if yo u arc cu ttin g morc the frame parts to length. th a n one stud , or if yo u s impl y \va nt to be certajn the Fasten top a nd bottom niche frame parts to the nic he box does not sag fro m down wa rd pressure, make sides w ith dIYv,‘all screwS or trim -heud sc rews dri ven th e opening la rger a nd in sta ll a 2 X 4 fra me to hOllse into co unte rsun k pilot ho les (photo 5). C ut the backe r th e nic he box. Thi s ,v ill requ ire cons iderably more board to size an d attac h it to t he back edges of th e patc hing of th e wa ll coveri ng, bu t you may apprec iate fram e ,v ith drywall scre’vs o r llni sh nai ls. Install it for you r own peace of m ind. backer ma terial (9 12 X 25 12”) with drywall sc rews . 1 1
Hhll Niclle • 115
use standard casing to trim out the
6 niche like a picture frame. Pre-installing
the trim means you can slip the niche box
assembly into the opening and the trim
guides how the box sets against the wall,
similar to how a pre-hung door is installed.
Fasten the niche box up into the stud
ends with finish nails.
C ut trim mo ldings (s uch as doo r casing or picture cavity on eac h side. Locate eac h st ud and transfe r its
frame molding) to fit t he ni c he box. For the most location to the inte ri or of t he box a nd mark it.
satisfying res ults, c hoose a moldin g style a nd approach Test-fit th e n iche box to make s ure it lays Rat
th at refl ects the mold ing sche me already in the room. aga in st drywall. W hen yo u have estab li shed that th e fit
Faste n th e t rim to th e ni c he box wi th finis h nails and is good , rlln a bead of ca ul k/adh es ive on the backsides
glue or panel adhes ive (photo 6). Run a sma ll bead of th e trim p ieces .
of cau lk/adhes ive on th e face of th e nic he box. Na il Inse rt th e ni che box into the opening. Press firml y
casi ng to ni c he box. so t he trim squeezes into t he adh esive.
Pre-drill ho les at st ud locations an d fasten with a
INSTALL THE NICHE BOX pa ir of 6d Ilnis h na ils dri ve n through the fmllle boards
T he ni c he box is faste ned through the interior wa lls and into the e nds of the c ut wa ll stud s (photo 7).
of th e box to th e ends of the stud (s) you removed . It Fill and sa nd fastener holes. Sand an d ca ulk as
ca n also be fastened to blocks you in sta ll in t he wa ll necessal)'. Prime and paint or app ly another finish of
your c hoice.116 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Options for Making a Wall Niche ~ One key to cutting in a wall niche is to understand that you must cut a larger hole in your wall than the finished dimensions of the wall niche. So first, you determine the niche’s finished location and opening dimensions and mark them out on the wall. You then measure from those lines so that the niche box fits inside the wall. Although making the niche so it fits precisely within a stud bay has some built-in efficiencies, it is not necessary. As you’ll see in this project, as long as you’re building in a non- load bearing wall you can locate your niche just about anywhere you choose. Three options for trimming out a wall niche are described here. The first is to frame a wood niche insert with picture-frame trim. The second is to use a drywall wrap created with blocking inside the wall cavity and finished with joint compound to blend with the surrounding wall. The third option simply involves installing a prefabricated product.
Build your niche completely out of wood, insert it into
a hole cut in the wall and trim it with picture molding (as
seen on previous pages).Frame the niche opening and install a wood shelf at purchase a prefabricated wall niche from an the bottom, then trim out the opening with wallboard architectural millwork supplier and install it in a properly using common taping and finishing techniques. sized wall opening.
Hhll Niclle • 117I Room Divider A room divider, like a partition wall, separates one large room into two usable spaces, each \vith its ovm specific function. But unlike a partition >I/ a ll , a room divider adds storage space to your home, w hil e letting YOLI retain the open feeling of a larger room. Room dividers commonl y are llsed to separate a large kitchen/dining area into two different “rooms .” Add ing a pass-through and overhanging cQuntcrtop, as in the project shown here, creates a casual dining area. In the design featured here, the room divider is built in two main sectio ns: the base cab ine t with countertop, and the LIpper shelf unit. The two section s are joined by a Aoar-ta-ceiling plyv/ood framework to crea te one attractive built· in. A room divider lends itself to personal touches, like mounting a win e rac k and ste mwa re racks on the und e rside of th e she lf unit to make a conve nient dry bar. The overhanging cou ntertop gives this room divider eln <:Idded dim ension as a co nvenie nt dinin g surface loc<:Ited near the food preparation a rea of the kitchen. The cabinets o n the kit c hen sid e of the room divider also provide accessible storage space for pots, pans, and kitchenwa re . T he open shelves in the upper half of the room divider are ideal for displaying glass\vare or collectibles. \tVe deSigned this room divider with a built·up plyv.rood countertop that has a polyurethane varnis h finish. This is an eco nomi cal and perfectly approp riate so lution . But if you ‘re lookin g to spice up the design a bit, co nsider replac in g th e cou nte rtop v..rith a hi ghcr. e nd countertop material, suc h as granite or solid · surfac in g. You’ll be amazed at how much di ffere nce a fe\’ vve ll ·chosen design hi ghli ghts ca n make in the over<:tll appearance of th e project.
118 • T HE COMPLETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS
H
co Q
R
,
,
,
,JI 1r II , II
Construction Detail,
Front View
Room Di vider • 119
Tools Cutting List
Stepladder Handscrev.' clamps Part No. Desc. Size Material
Peneil Ba r clamps
A 4 Top ond sole plotes 71 Y,' 2x 4
Level Dri ll/driver and bits
Tupe meaSure Screwdriver B 4 Sale plate cross braces 15" 2x 4
Plumb bob Hammer C Outer end ponel 95 W' xiS" 3/, ook plywood
Framing square Na il set D I Inner end panel 91" xiS" '(." ook plywood
Route r v-l it h 3// st raight bit Putty knife 22" x 14'(."
E 3 Bose ponels 3(." ook plywood
C ircular saw or table saw
F 3 Cobinet shelves 21 3(." x 14'1, 3(." ook plywood
Materials G 6 Cabinet risers 30" x 14'(." 3(." ook plywood
Wood glue H Cobinet bock ponel 32" x 70" 1(." ook plywood
Finish nails ( I", 1/~1t, 2" ) (ountertop panels 70 W' x24" 3(." ook plywood
S'CreHIS ( I I! , ] 1/-I,
" 21\ , 21/:"
2) 3'1)
J Shelf unit supports 33" xiS" 3(." ook plywood
Shims
K Top, bottom shelf ponels 70y," xiS" 3(." ook plywood
3// hard wood strip s
Countertop trim
L Center shelf ponel 69'1." xiS" 3(." ook plywood
Shelf-edge trim M Shelf unit sides 25 W' xiS" 3(." ook plywood
Pin -style shelf supports N Shelf unit risers 12 W' x IS" '(." ook plywood
Fini sh ing materials 0 Face frame roils 33 lineor ft. I x 4 ook
Door ha rd wa re p Foce frome stiles 26 linear ft. Ix200k
5) 2 X 4" X 8 ft. pine
5) I X 4" X 8 ft. oak
Q Face frame stiles 12 linear ft. Ix300k
4) I x2"x8ft.oak R Overloy doors see poges 46 to 47
I ) 1/, X 4 ft. X 8 ft. oak p lywood
4) 3(, X 4 ft. X 8 ft. oak plywood
ROOM DIVIDER PROJECT DETAILS
2"0=
+
4"
.+
Cabinet risers, cut from ¥.' plywood, Shelf-unit panels, cut from 'I." plywood, have W'-wide by '!,"-deep dadoes to hold
have holes for pin-style shelf supports the shelf risers. The center shelf panel is dadoed on both the top and the bottom
drilled at 4" intervals, 2" in from edges faces, and the top and bottom shelf panels are dadoed on one face only.
of each riser face. Holes start 9" from
top and bottom.120 • T H E COMPLETE C UIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUILT-tNS
How to Build a Room Divider
1 2
Mark the location for the top plates cut two 2 x 4 top plates and cut two 2 x 4 sole plates, and align on the ceiling, using a framing square to position them against the ceiling, with them directly under the top plates, using ensure that lines are perpendicular to the outside edges flush against the a plumb bob as a guide. Check to see the wall. Locate wall studs and ceiling reference lines. Check to see if plates if plates are level, shim if needed, then joists in the project area, and install are level, and install shims if needed . anchor the sale plates to the floor, using blocking if necessary Anchor plates to ceiling Joists or 3” screws. blocking, using 3” screws.
4 5
Cut and attach 2 x 4 cross braces across the sale plates, Measure and cut the outer end panel ‘h” shorter than the floor- using 2’/''' screws. Position the cross braces at the ends of the to-ceiling height to allow for adjustments. Align end panel with sale plates, and below the planned cabinet riser locations. the edges of the 2 x 4 plates, then attach it to the top and sale plates, using 2’h” screws driven into counterbored pilot holes.
Room Divider • 121
Planned height
6 of countertop~
-------
tIll"
•
Measure and cut the inner end panel 'h" shorter than the Measure and cut plywood cabinet risers with holes for shelf
distance between the top plate and sale plate cross braces, supports (see Project Details, page 120). Risers should be '1."
and slide it in place. Align the panel with the edges of the top narrower than end panels, and 1'/," shorter than the distance
plate and sale plate cross braces, then attach it to the wall from sale plate cross braces to planned countertop height.
with 2'/," screws driven into wall studs or blocking. Attach a riser to each end panel, flush with the front edge, by
driving 1'1." screws through counterbored pilot holes.
Measure and cut plywood base panels the same width as Make riser assemblies (for inner riser locations) by Joining
the risers. Lay one base panel across the sale plate cross two risers together, back-to-back, with glue and 1'{," finish
braces, butted against the riser at the inner end panel, with the nails. Set one riser assembly on the cross brace next to the
'{," recess at the back side (inset). Attach the base panel, using first base panel, and attach it with 2W' screws driven through
2" finish nails. pilot holes and into the base panel edge.122 • T H E COMP LETE GU IDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
11Install the middle base panel, then the second riser Measure and cut two plywood countertop panels, 24” wide, assembly, then the last base panel, using the techniques to fit between the end panels and set the first panel on the shown in steps 8 to 9. cabinet risers, flush with the front edges of the end panels. use a framing square to adjust the risers so they are perpendicular to the countertop, then drill pilot holes and drive 2W’ screws through countertop and into risers.
12
Apply glue to the top of the fi rst countertop panel, then Measure and cut a W’ oak plywood back panel to fit into the set the second countertop panel on th e first panel. Clamp recess created by the back edges of the risers and base panels the panels together, then join them by driving ’” screws up (see step 8). Set the back panel into the recess, then attach it through the underside of the first panel. to the cabinet risers and base panels, using ’” wire nails driven at 8” intervals.
Room Divider • 123
Measure and cut plywood shelf panels for the upper shelf Measure and cut plywood shelf unit sides. Make a 'I," -wide,
unit, then cut '!."-wide, 'I,"-deep dadoes at shelf riser locations %"-deep dado in each side, where the center shelf panel will fit
(see Project Details, page 120). Tip: "Gang-cut" dadoes to speed
up your work: mark locations for dado cuts on panels, then
clamp them together so dado marks align.
Shelf
risers
.
Center s helfY
• panel
Bottom shelf panel
Measure and cut plywood shelf unit risers the same width as Assemble the remaining pieces of the upper shelf unit,
the center shelf Stand the center shelf panel on its side, then using glue and 2" screws driven into counterbored pilot holes.
glue the shelf risers into dadoes. Reinforce the joints with 2" Attach side panels to center shelf, then attach top and bottom
screws driven into counterbored pilot holes. shelf panels to side panel and shelf risers. Make sure diagonal
measurements of shelf unit are equal (if not, adjust unit as
needed until it is square).124 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUILT-INS
19Measure and cut plywood shelf unit supports. Supports With a helper, lift the shelf unit onto the tops of the shelf unit should be tall enough to leave a gap of about 1” beneath the supports. There should be a gap of about 1” between the shelf top plates when the shelf unit is mounted on their top edges. unit and the top plates. Attach the shelf unit supports to the inner and outer end panels, using glue and 1’1.” finish nails.
20 21
Align the edges of the upper shelf unit with the edges of Set a 2 x 4 brace between the countertop and the shelf unit, the end panels. Attach the shelf unit by driving 1’1.” finish nails then measure and cut 1 x 4 top and bottom rails for the face through the side panels and into the end panels. Space nails 4” frames. Miter the corner joints at the edges of the outer end apart, along outer edges of shelf unit. panel, and butt the trim against the wall at the inner end panel. Drill pilot holes, and attach rails with glue and 2” finish nails driven into panels and framing members.
Room Divider • 125
22 23
Measure and cut 1 x 4 countertop rail to reach from the wall Measure and cut 1 x 2 face frame stiles to fit between the
to the outside edge of the outer end panel, on the front side of bottom rail and the top rail at the back of the room divider.
the room divider. Attach the rail to the edge of the countertop, Make a %" x 1W' notch in each stile, where the edge of the
using glue and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes. countertop will fit Attach the stiles to the end panels, using
glue and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes.
24
Measure and cut 1 x 2 stiles to fit between the countertop Cover the countertop overhang with ornamental trim
rail and the top rail at the front of the room divider. Position molding mitered at a 45 angle at corner joints. Attach with
0
stiles over the edges of the end panel, and attach with glue glue and 1'/;" finish nails driven through pilot holes.
and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes.126 • T H E COMP L ETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
27Measure and cut 1 x 3 stiles to fit between the bottom rail Attach W’ shelf-edge strips to all exposed edges of the and the countertop rail on the back side of the room divider upper shelf unit, using glue and 1” finish nails driven through Position end stiles flush with the outside faces of the end pilot holes. Cut horizontal strips the full length of the shelf unit, panels, and center the interior stiles over the riser assemblies. then add vertical strips between the horizontal strips. Attach with glue and 2” finish nails driven through pilot holes.
28 29
..
•Cut adjustable shelves for the cabinets, attach shelf-edge Cover gaps at ceiling with cove molding, and along floor and trim if desired, then install shelves, using pin-style shelf wall with base shoe molding. Fill holes, sand, then apply fin ish. supports. Build, finish, and hang overlay cabinet doors (pages 46 to 47). Attach all remaining hardware.
Room Divider • 127I Laundry Center M any of the a reas where we do our laundry lack two important features: organization and li ghti ng. T h is la und I)’ ce nte r is a self-co ntai ned buil t- brightness \vh ile contrasting with the maple wood of the cab inets. The edges of the center are trim med v” it h c lea r map le. in t hat funct ions like a roo m w it hin a room, addi ng If yo u are creating your bu ilt-in laun dry center bo th storage s pace and tas k lighting fo r what can in a room tha t di d not previo usly ho use yo u r was he r otherwise be a disagreeab le tas k. It is built fro lll a base an d d ryer, arra nge for an d have insta ll e d the hookups cab inet and butc he r b lock countcrtop on o ne side for bo th app lia nces befo re you bui ld. If you arc not of a 24”-wide , 7 ft. ta ll stu b wall, and a ban k of wa ll experienced w ith plu m b in g an d wi ring, hire a plum ber cab inets o n t he ot her side of the wal l. The cab inets and elect ri cia n to run any new dra in , supply, d ryer are desig ned to Ilt above a was he r an d dryer co m bo. ve n t or e lectrical service li nes. A lso make sure to T he s tructu re in cludes a ce ilin g w ith light fixt u res identify potentia l so u rces for elect rical service to mou nted ove r bot h s ides, a nd a sw itc h \f ired into pO\ve r the ligh ts (in t he vers ion see n here, \ve ins ta ll e d the stu b wall to co nt rol t he Iigh ts. The \va ll s are b uilt recessed c<:tnister lights over t he cou ntertop <:tnd <:t bove fro m inexpe n sive wa ll shea th ing a nd, a long vl ith the the washer and dryer). ceili ng, a re c lad w ith easy to .vas h ti le board that adds
128 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Tools Tape Measure Level Pencil E Square Drill/driver & bits Pmvder-actuated nai ler H ammer or pneumatic nailer Jig saw
Tileboard ,/
"
F
H
TileboardMaterials Cutting List (2) 4 x 8 sheets wa ll sheathi ng (7/16 OK, 23/32 better) Part No. Desc. Size Material (3) 4 x 8 sheets tileboard with an 8-ft. inside corn er A Cop/Sill plate 1’I, x 3’1, x 24” 2x 4 strip and panel adhesive (2) Recessed ca ni ster light w ith trim kit B 3 Stud 1’/, x 3V, x 79” 2x 4 ( I) Undercabinet fluorescent fixture (direct wire ) - 24” C Full wall s;, x24x82” Sheathing ( I) Clothes rod (24” ) wi th mounting hardware D Wall cop %x 512 x 79” 1 Maple 1 x 6 I x 2, I X 4 a nd I x 6 map le for trim E Ceiling ‘I, x 24 x 100”’ Sheathing 32” vv ide base cab inet F Half wall ‘l, x24x43” Sheathing Butcher block countertop for base ca bi net (2) 28” 2-door uppers G 4 Top trim %x 51/1 X cut to fit Maple 1 x 6 Electrical box. switch, 14/2 romex , switch pla te H Bose cabinet 34’1,” h x 36” w Stock cabinet End pa ne l for upper cab inets Wall cabinets 12 x 30 x 30” Stock cabinets Panel adh es ive (ounlerlop 1’!. x2Sx36 J Counlertop D’Y’vall or dec k sc rews ‘IoCan be pieced toge th er from two boards joined at th e Na il s c rotch of the L. (4) I ‘h x 3’12 X 96 pine
LW/J!dry Cellfe r • 129
I How to Build a Laundry Center
Attach the base plate for the stub wall perpendicular to the After toe-nailing the studs to the base plate (and
wall, allowing space between the stub wall and the corner for face nailing the stud next to the wall if possible) attach the cap
your base cabinet plate, making sure the studs are vertical.
FRAME THE STUB WALL
T hi s blli l t ~ in laundry center is a nc hored by a 7 ~ foot ~
tal l, 24 "-widc stub wa ll , so start by framing the wa ll.
Measure out from the corner the width of your base
cab inet (3 6" here ) and draw a 24"- long reference line
perpendicu lar to the wa ll. Cut a 2 X 4 wa ll plate to
24" and attach it to the Aoor. If you are building in a
basement wi th a co ncrete Aoo r, lise pressure-trea ted
lumber for the base plate and attach it by dri ving
co nc rete nails with a powder-actuated nailer (photo I).
Cut three 2 x 45 to 79" long and attac h them to
the base plate by toe-nailing (reinforce con nections
w it h L-brackets if YOLI \\fish ). The n , cut a 24"- long cap
pbte and nai l it to th e free ends of t he st uds with 16d
co mm on na ils (photo 2). If yo u are instal li ng overhead
ligh ting, run cable from th e power so urce (don't hook
lip the \,v ires yet) through the stud s a nd to a n electrical
switch box mounted to the wa ll frame (photo 3). Also
run s hea thed ca bl e from the electrical box and out
through a ho le in the wal l cap p late. Run enoug h ca ble
to reach the li ght fixtures. \lI,!e wired the fixtures in
series: the pO\ver lead goes to the electrical box for
the undercabi net light Il rst, and then run s from the
Run cable and install boxes for the light fixtures. Hire an
electrician to do this if you are not experienced with home box to th e canister light. If yo u prefer to swi tch th e
wiring. (Note that you will need to apply for a permit and have light independen tl y, install a double gang box a nd
your wiring inspected.) ca ble for two switched circui ts .130 • T HE COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
INSTAll THE BASE CABINET INSTAll THE WAllS We designed thi s laundry center \v ith matc hin g base At the ve ry least, yo u’ll need to cove r bot h sides of and uppe r ca bine ts. Insta l1 t he base cabi ne t betwee n t he stub wa ll for your laundry center. If th e wal ls th e stub wa ll and the co rn er (p hoto 4- see pages 58 in your in stallation a rea are fit fo r coverin g with to 59 for informat ion o n inst<Jlling base cabine ts). You tileboard, yo u “von ‘t need to create a ny add itional ca n lise just about a ny type of cOllnte rtop mater ia l you “vall s ur faces. I n part to c reate an attachment wish . We selected map le butcher block because it can surfac e fo r t he c lothes rod , we a lso insta lle d a wa ll resist \vater and heat, req uires very littl e mainte na nce, surface on t he left s ide of th e project area. T he and makes a nice s urface fo r fo ld ing laundry. Plus, it wa ll s urfaces are c reated by attach ing sheath in g matc hes th e maple ca bine ts and trim boards . To secu re to the wa ll studs a nd th en bonding water-res ista n t butc he r b lock, you need to drill extra- la rge gu ide hol es tileboard over the faces of t he s hea thin g w ith pane l through t he na iling strips o n the base cabinet a nd ad hesive. C ut a piece of wa ll s heath ing that’s t he atta c h the co untertop with a s hort sc rews an d was hers same w idt h as th e stub wa ll a nd reac hes th e same (p hoto 5). Thi s a llows th e ma terial to move as it heig ht ,·v he n placed on th e countertop su rface. expa nds a nd con trac ts, \vhi c h bu tc he r block will do. Attach th e shea thin g to th e sid e of t h e co u n te rto p
4 5
!Install the base cabinet between the stub wall and the Attach the countertop material (butcher block is seen corner, making sure it is level and securely attached to at least here). The countertop should be flush against both walls and it one wall. should overhang the base cabinet slightly.
Lnwzdry Cellfer • 131
area (photo 6). I nse rt a couple of fur ring stri ps
bet\vee n the s heathin g and the wa ll to creute
C.O. aI rspace.
, ..,.1Stud C lad th e stub wa ll on both sides with wa ll
'1 •lot aiion shea thi ng (photo 7). Ma ke a cutout for the switc h box,
T he sheathin g o n the countertop s ide sho uld rest on
the cou nte rtop. Slip a co upl e of shi ms und erneath the
\,vail sheathing on the vvas her and dryer side so the
shea thing does not con tact th e floor, whi c h ca n lead to
wicking of wa ter.
C ut picccs of tile board to fit t he wa ll surfaces and
attach them wi th panel adhes ive . Attac h inside corner
stri ps c ut to Ilt at the inside corners of th e countertop
area (photo 8), Rub t he tile board su rfaces aggressively
w it h balled -up towe ls to he lp seat th e tileboard into
the adhes ive.
HANG THE UPPER CABINETS
The upper ca binets sho uld be mounted on th e \.va ll s
so th e ir tops a re nu sh wi th th e top of the st ub wa ll and
th ey butt up aga inst th e stub wa ll at the s ide . Attach
,",vith a ledger sys tem or by dri ving cabi ne t scre\vs
through the mounting strips and in to th e wa ll at stud
locations (photo 9 ), See p"ges 54 to 59 fo r more
informCitio n on hCl nging wCl II ca bin ets. If th e ex posed
ca binet e nd is not fini s hed, purchase a nd install an
e nd pane l to matc h th e ca binet type (or, make one
Attach wall sheathing to the wall to create a nailing surface from 'I," pl ywood).
at the wall end of the countertop area.
MAKE & INSTALL THE CEILING
You'll find that it's eCisiest to c ut th e ceil ing board,
attac h th e til eboard and mOllnt th e ligh t fixt u res a ll
before you attach the ce iling asse mbl y to th e st ub
wa ll and cabinets . Sta rt by cuttin g th e ce iling boa rd
to size an d s hape from a piece of 4 x 8 sheathi ng
(photo J 0 ). We des igned the cei li ng to be 24" wide
above th e ca bin et, then to c ut bac k to J 8" wide over
the \,va il cabin ets, whi ch creates CI 6 11 overhang above
the cabinets so an unde rcCl bine t light fixture can
be mounted if yo u \vish . As shown , th e si de ~ to- side
w idth of th e structure is over 96", so a single piece of
4 X 8 ft. wall sheathin g \,vo n't cove r it. You'll need to
make th e ceili ng in two pieces, so size th e pieces so
the scam falls in th e middle of th e top plate for the
stu b wall.
Clad the stub wall on both sides with wall sheathing, making
sure to cut out accurately for the switch box.132 • T HE CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
8
•Cover the wall surfaces with tile board, which is attached install the wall cabinets so they are level and their tops are with panel adhesive and set by rubbing with a rag. flush with the top of the stub wall.
10
Cut the ceiling to size and shape from a piece of sheathing (you’ll need multiple pieces if your project is more than 8 ft long).
Lnwzdry Ce llfer • 133
· I
'------.I
Mount the hardware and box for the light f,xture to the Attach the ceiling panel to the laundry center wall and the
ceiling panel before you install the ceiling. cabinets.
13a 13b
Make the wiring connections at the light fixtures (left) and
at the switch (right).134 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Att<:lc h t ileboa rd to the ceili ng p<:lnel o n th e facethat wi ll be fac ing dovvll,va rd. The n , plot out the location s for the ligh t fixt ures a nd mount t he housi ngs 14 a nd ceiling boxes to th e back of th e ce iling pa ne l as needed (photo II ). Set t he ceiling panel over the laun dry cente r and attac h it wit h nails or screws driven into the top plate of t he st ub wa ll a nd the cabinet sides (p hoto 12) .
HOOK UP LIGHTS & INSTALL TRIM Make th e w iring con nec tion s at t he light llxtures and at th e switch (photo s 13a and 13b) . You wi ll need to have a \v iring inspection before makin g the Ilna l hookup at the power source. C ut pieces of I x 6” map le to muke th e top t ri m. Miter th e outside and ins ide corne rs <:IS you inst<:l ll the trim . Use a pne um at ic nai ler to <:Ittach the trim if you have access to one (photo 14 ). Attac h the vertical trim mem be rs to cove r the wa ll at the left s ide of the project and t he e nd of th e st ub wa ll (photo 15 ). Scribe as ne cessa ry (see page 66) and rip th e stu b wa ll trim to Ilt. For a more Iln ished look, round over the edges of the vert ical trim pieces sl igh tl y. Fina ll y, sl ide in, level a nd hook up your was her a nd drye r (photo 16). Ma ke sure to follow loca l codes Trim out the top of the structure with 1 x 4 hardwood to for wate r a nd drain supply a nd for ve ntin g your dryer. conceal the gap beneath the ceiling panel. If you prefer, you can use crown molding here.
16Attach the vertical trim boards, butting them up against Install your washer and dryer (or have your appliance the top trim and keeping the bottom slightly above the floor. dealer install them for you). Apply a finish and top coat to the trim boards as desired.
Lnwzdry Cellfer • 135I Towel Tower I f there’s one place in the house that co ll ects everybody’s stuff, it’s th e bathroom. Towe ls, cloth es, cleaning supplies, eve n laundry. Bu t so me fancy design \vork lI sing a couple of refri gerator \va ll ca bin ets and some cool ca rpen try crea te a niche spot that can provide a ce ntral loca ti on For al l kind s of different items. Suitable even for sma ll bathrooms, this towe l to’ve r also adds texture and co lor to the space. And another added benefit to th is project is the sea ting provided by th e countertop to p on the ca bin et. The beadboard backi ng fo r thi s project is made v,lith painted -%“-thic k tongue and groove pine, some tim es called carsiding. IVlore advanced ca rpenters may pre fe r to make th e ir own Cll s tom bead board from hard wood an d give it a custom wood fini sh. The base for thi s projec t is an over-the-fridge si ze wa ll cabinet (sometimes ca lled a bridge cabinet). At I S!! high, it is within the range of comfortable seating heights. But if you prefer a slightly higher sea t (an d rnan y peo ple do), build a 2 X 4 c urb for the cabinet to rest on (see the Window Seat project on pages 80 to 87 for in fo rmation on how to install a seat in a 2 x 4 cu rb ). To concea l the sea m w here the towe l towe r mee ts the Aoor, we trimmed around the ba se w ith base shoe trim , mitering the corners. vVe used th e sa me trim stock to co nceal the ga p w here the sea tboard meets th e tongue-an d-groove paneling. H ere, however, \ve added small miter return s to th e en ds of th e ba se shoe (sec pages 42 to 43 ).
136 • T HE COM PLETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS
EMaterials 32 sq. ft. tongue-and-groove paneling (2) I X 6 X 8 Ft. pine 3 ft. crown molding liz sheet W’-thick MDF 12 ft. qU<:Irter- rou nd molding Towel hooks Faste ners
Cutting List Key No. Description Size Material A Over·fridge cobinel ISh x 30w x 24d B I Seotboord 0/, x 2S x 32* MOl C 8 T&6 pone ling %x S1flX 71 W** Pine c D 2 Towel hook bockers ¥. x SV1 x 27” Pinelx6 E 3 lin. ft. Crown molding CUi 10 fil (w/milers) Pine F 12 lin. ft. V.-round molding Cullo fil Pine ‘I- Finished size: requ ires slightly large r board for machi ni ng ** Length equa ls di stcll1ce from top of seatbo<:l rd to ceiling minus Ih”
Towel Tml'er • 137
How to Build a Towel Tower
INSTAll THE BASE CABINETS Attac h t he seatboard with screws d rive n through
Begin by making t he seatboard that tops t he the mountin g st rips on the cab inet top and in to the
refrigerator cab inet. Cut a piece of medium dens ity un derside of the seatboard. The back edge of the
fiberboard (M OF) so it is I " wider than t he cabinet seatboard s hould be nush with t he back edge of t he
<:I nc! a couple of inches lo nger front -to-back (make cab inet and t he overhang shou ld be equal on the
it about 26" if using a 24" ca binet as show n here ). sides. Since this cab inet is small, it might be best to
Mo unt a piloted ogee or ro un dove r bit (or ot he r clamp the blank in location on t he cabinet, then turn
profil ing bit of yo ur choice) into yo u r rou te r and s hape the cabinet on its back so you ca n access t he faste ner
the front and side edges (p hoto I). You'll p robab ly locatio ns more eas ily (p hoto 2).
get a litt le bit of blow-out at th e bac k edge, whic h is Insta ll the ca binet in t he project location.
why it's recommended that you make the workpiece 13aseboard and any othe r obstructions s hou ld be
a couple of inches too long. Once you've routed t he removed from the project area. Slip shi ms be low and
p rofiles, trim the back edge so the front overha ngs t he behi nd t he cab inet as needed to make sure it is leve l
cab inet by I II, Coat all faces and edges with pri me r an d pl umb. Attac h t he cabinet to the wall by driving
and at least tv,ro coats of paint. 2" wa ll board screws t h rough the cab inet bac k at wa ll
stud locations (p hoto 3) .
Rout a profile, such as an ogee or roundover, into the sides Because these cabinets are so small, it's easier to pre-gang
and front of the seatboard. use a router table if you have one, them together, then flip the assembly upside down to install
otherwise hand-machine it with a piloted profiling bit. the seatboard.138 • T H E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Drive screws through the back of the3 cabinet at the marked wall stud locations.
-INSTALL THE PANELING
T he backer boa rd fo r the towe l tower ca n be made
fro m a nu mber of bu ild ing materials, ,v hi le retai ning
the beadboard appea rance that lends a bit of co un try
style to t hi s project. The easiest and c heapest product
you can usc is beadboard pa neling: th in sheet stock
that comes in 4 X 8 ft . panels . You’ll find a wide range
of colors, patterns and qua lit ies in the beadboard sheet
stock, including some that is pre-s ized to around 42”
for ins ta ll at ion as v,ra in scot in g. The c he<Jpest materied
has a pri n ted pattern laye r lamina ted over hardboa rd .
Midpoint
T he better quali ty material has hardwood ve nee r over
a plywood or lauan backi ng. We chose real tongue-
and-groove boards made from pine. W it h actual -
d imens ions of 3/R x 5 1hl!, the carsid ing prod uct we llsed
has e nough depth to c rea te a convinc ing profi le but is
still relat ively inexpe nsive.
Because it is ve ry un likely that th e strips of
carsiding will be exac tly the same ,vidth as yo ur base
cab inet once t hey’re instal led, you’ ll need to ri p-cut
the outside boa rds to fit t he project area (it is bette r
to rip-c ut bot h outer boards a n equa l amount tha n to
take everythi ng out of one of the boards). To gauge
where to make yo ur cuts, asse mble enough boards to
cover t he widt h of the ca binet and lay t hem out on
Layout the tongue-and-groove carsiding boards in a
a flat surface (photo 4 ). Mark th e centerpoi nt of the row, with the tongues fitted into grooves. Measure out in one
middle boa rd and meas u re out half the distance in direction (half the width of base cabinets) from a midpoint line
each direction . Ma ke rip-cut lines at t hese poi nts . in the center board.
Towel Tower • 139
6
Clamp a straightedge over a tongue-and-groove board, Press the trimmed filler board to the wall, seating it in
placing a piece of scrap plywood underneath as a backer. Rip- construction adhesive, at the left edge of the panel area.
cut the board to the correct thickness for the filler piece.
Before ri pp ing the boards, tr im a ll of your Use" 4-ft. level to exte nd plumb lines di rectly
carsidi ng stock so it is 1/4" to 'htl shorte r tha n th e li p t he \.va ll fro m the outside edges of t he seatboa rd.
d istance from t he seat board to the cei li ng. The n, t ri m T hen, mark t he \,va ll stu d locatio ns o n t he seatboa rd
the outer carsiding board s to width lIsing a tab le saw an d cei ling \,v ith tape. Begin install ing the carsid ing
(make sure you arc tri mming off the correct edge, be on th e left side, wit h t he left trim me d boa rd. In mos t
it tongue or groove), If you have access to a tab lcsaw, cases, th e tongue will be preserved o n t hi s boa rd a nd
use it to make the cuts. Otherwise, use a c ircular saw shou ld be oriented inward (photo 6). App ly a hea\1'
a nd a straig htedge cutti ng guide. \rVith thin stock like bead of construction ad hesive to t he back of t he board
this, cutt ing a scrap wood backer board a long \\l ith an d st ick it to the wal l. If it happe ns to fal l ove r a
the wor kpiece wi ll resu lt in a c leane r cut . iVlakc the \,vall stu d, na il it in pl ace by dri vin g (l fin ish nai l (or,
rip cu t s (p hoto 5) and sa nd the edges if necessary to prefera bly, a p ne u matic brad) th ro ugh the to ngue at a n
smooth out the cuts. ang le. The nai ls shou ld be countersun k e nough t ha t
they do no t obstruct t he groove of t he adjo ining board.140 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUlLT-l NS
Continue installing boards until you reClch t he board by driving 21hl! de ck sc re\\/s, co untersunk, CIt vvallrig ht edge (photo 7) . Use plenty of adh es ive und dri ve stud locations. Fill the sc rew hol es with wood putty. several nails when yo u hit a \va ll stud. If none of th e In stall quarter~rou nd molding aro u nd th e bottom wa ll studs align be neat h cars idi ngjoi nts, tac k the of th e ca binet to conceal the gap whe re it meets th e boa rd that fal ls over a wa ll stud by face-nailing o nce Aoor. Al so in stall quarte r-round to co ncea l th e gap at the top an d once at th e bottom. In most cases, whe re the ca rsidin g meets th e ca binet seat board you shou ld be ub le to ta c k each board at the top (photo 8 ). i/lake mitered return s at the end for a more too, nailing t hrough the face Cl nd into the stud \vall fini s hed ap pearan ce (see pages 42 to 43 ). ca p plate (thi s will be concea led by crovm mo lding Atta c h c rown molding to th e top of th e projec t anyway). Note: TI-le 1Iloun.ting boards for the towel (photo 9), also making a mitered return to fini sh th e hooks will help hold the carsiding in place alice they are ends of th e molding (sec pages 42 to 43 ). attached at stlld locations. Sand a ll wood su rfaces and fill na il hol es, sc rcw Cut the towe l hook backe r boards to le ngth from ho les and visible gaps with wood putty. Paint th e I x 6 stock. For a more decorative effect, cut a c hamfer project wi th prime r and at leas t two coa ts of ename l profile into th e edges (o r just the top and bottom edges) paint. Finally, attach th e tov,‘e l hooks to the tov,lel hoo k with a ro uter a nd chamfe rin g bit. In stall the backe r backers .
7 ·8 •
Drive a pneumatic brad through the tongue of one of the Install quarter-round or base shoe molding at the top edge fa r-right boards, and into a marked wall stud. of the seatboard where it meets the carsiding. Tie the molding back to the wall with mitered returns (see pages 42 to 43).
9 - • -~- Attach crown molding at the top of the project, creating mitered returns at the ends. Mark the ceiling joists with tape.
Towel Tower • 141I Understairs Work Center understa irs wo rk center by s hortening or le ngth e nin g T he irregula r space beneat h a sta ircase can be used for a variety of creative bu il t-in projects. Because the dimensions and <1ngles of understa irs areas v<:I ry the cou nte rtop and connecting she lf. A smal l ca binet and upper she lves are added to fill out th e remaining wide ly, Ilnding stock cab inet ry that illS the space is space. The dept h of t he cou nte rtop also ca n be difficult. However, th e design show n he re ca n be built adj usted to matc h t he width of yo ur staircase. to fit almost any area . Most understairs projects requ ire that yo u make T he undcrstairs wo rk ce nter, in its simp lest fo rm , many angled c uts, but in th e project shown here, is a pair of bas ic ca binets that support a co untcrtop. you will need to ma ke only a few miters and bevels. T he basic cab ine ts are built to a sta ndard height, Beveled cu ts ca n be made with a pmver miter saw, depending on t he ir use. You can adapt the size of the ci rc ular saw, or tab le saw.
142 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
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"Tools Materials Pencil Cordless Drill/driver Sh im s 26 lineal ft. oak 1 x 3 Tape rn easure Drill bits Fini sh nails ( ]II , 11/”, ” , 2” ) 25 lineal ft. oak 1 x 2 Level H amrner U tility screws ( ] ”, ] 1/”, ”, 2Ih”) 1) ‘I, x 4 ft. x 8 ft. pl)~vood T-bevel Router with WI straight ] 11 ,,‘ire nails 3) % x 4 ft. x 8 ft. oak plywood C ircular saw bit and W’ rabbet bit Trim mold ing or table saw Bar clamps Finish rnaterials Power rn iter saw Door and drawer hardv·,Iare
Cutting List Part No. Desc. Size Material Part No. Desc. Size Material A Top shelf 28 x 18” 3(.” plywood J Small cobinet side 34 Y, x 24” W plywood B lower shelf 42 x 18” ‘I.” plywood K 2 Small cobinet bottom & top 19Y. x 24” W plywood C Shelf deats 12 lineal ft. I x 2 L Small cobinet bock 20” x 34” 3(. ” plywood
D 4 Cabinet sides 35’;’ x 24” 3(.” plywood M Connecting shelf 27’/. x 24” ’!.” plywood E 4 Cabinet bose, top panels 19’1. x 24 ” ‘I.” plywood N Face frome pieces 26 lineal ft. I x 3 ook F 4 Cabinet shelves 19’1. x 24” 3(.” plywood 0 Fa(e frome pieces 25 lineal ft. I x 2 ook G 2 Cabinet bocks 20 x 35” ‘I.” plywood p Shelf edge strips 4 lineal ft. ‘I, plywood H (ounlerlop 32 x 64” 3(.” plywood Q Drawers see pages 48 to 49 Small cobinet side 18 x 24” 3(.” plywood R Cabinet doors purchase to fit
Ulltlers/airs Work Cel1le r • 143
I project Details
The side panels for the short cabinet (left), made from W' plywood, differ in size. Shelves and cleats, made from
A line connecting the tops of the two panels should follow the slope line of the plywood and 1 x 2 strips, are beveled
staircase. The side panels for the main cabinets (right), are also made from ¥,' so they fit flush against the understairs
plywood, and have dadoes for the cabinet shelves and base, and rabbets for the cover. The shelf edging strips are cut
cabinet top. The taller side panel for the small cabinet fits against a main cabinet side from oak 1 x 2, and mitered at the same
panel when the work center is installed. angle as the shelves.
Duplicate the slope of your stairs using a T-bevel. Set one Cover stair underside before you install your understairs
arm of the T-bevel in a level position against the back wall, work center. Panels of 1%" plywood attached to the stringers
then align the other arm with the stairs (top photo). Transfer of the staircase create an understairs cover that can be
the angle directly to your saw to make mitered and beveled used to anchor shelf cleats. If you plan to add electrical or
cuts (bottom photo). plumbing lines, do the work (or hire a professional if you are
inexperienced) before installing your built-in.144 • TH E COM PL ETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUlLT-l NS
How to Build an Understairs Work Center
1
Mark the location for the shelf cleats Measure and cut 1 x 2 shelf cleats to Measure and cut ¥,’ plywood shelves, on the walls and understairs cover, fit along the reference lines on the walls then attach a ‘I,’ hardwood strip to each using a level as a guide. Butt the 12” and the understairs cover (see Project shelf edge (see page opposite) using cleats against the back wall, and allow Details, page opposite). Bevel the cleats glue and finish nails. Set shelves on at least 12” of clearance between the on the understairs cover to match the cleats and attach with 1’1,” finish nails countertop and the bottom shelf. stair slope angle. Attach the cleats with driven through pilot holes. 21// screws.
Measure and cut ‘I,’ plywood side Clamp and glue the cabinet sides to Reinforce each cabinet joint with 2” panels for main cabinets, then use a the top and bottom panels and shelves finish nails driven at 4” intervals. router and an edge guide to cut rabbets to form rabbet and dado joints. for top panels and dadoes for bottom Note: If you plan to install center- panels and shelves (see Project Details, mounted drawer slides, mount slide page opposite). tracks before you assemble the cabinet.
Ullders/airs Work Cellfer • 145
Cut a ",' plywood back panel for Position one cabinet so the top panel Position the other cabinet 'I,' away
each main cabinet. Set each back onto is pressed against the understairs cover from side wall, with front face aligned
a cabinet frame so that all sides align, and front face is flush with edge of with first cabinet. Check with a level
then attach them to cabinet side, base, stairway. Shim if needed, then toenail and shim if needed. Insert 'I. " spacers
and top panels using 1" wire nails. into the floor through the side panels, between cabinet and side wall, then
using 2" finish nails. For masonry floors, anchor to wall with 2" screws driven
attach with construction adhesive. into framing members.
cut 1 x 2 cleats for the connecting shelf that fits between the Measure and cut a ¥." plywood connecting shelf to fit
main cabinets. Mark level lines on the inner cabinet sides, then between the cabinets, and attach it to the cleats with 1v."
attach shelf cleats to the cabinet sides by driving 1'1. " screws finish nails. (If you plan to build a drawer using a center-
through counterbored pilot holes. mounted drawer slide, attach the slide track to the shelf before
you attach the shelf to the cleats.)146 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
1 13
Measure and cut a plywood countertop panel that extends Apply or install any special countertop finishing material, like all the way to the back wall, with one side flush against the ceramic tile or plastic laminate. Obtain installation instructions understairs cover. Attach the countertop to top panels of and follow them carefully if you have not installed tile or cabinets by driving finish nails down through the countertop. laminate before.
Back panel
Top panel
Side panelBuild a small cabinet the same width and depth as the main Position the small cabinet so the taller side panel is flush cabinets (steps 4 to 7). Adjust the height of the side panels to against the main cabinet. Align the face of the small cabinet follow the stair slope (see Project Details, page 144). Cut a v,” with the face of the main cabinet, then check with a level, plywood back panel, with the top edge sloped at the same shimming if necessary Connect the cabinets by drilling pilot angle as the line between the side panel tops. Attach the back holes, and driving 1,/,” screws through the side panels. panel to the cabinet with 1” wire nails.
Ullders/airs Work Cellfer • 147
16
If the corner is open at the bottom of the stairs, attach Measure and cut 1 x 3 bottom rails for the cabinets. Also
nailing strips to the understairs cover and cabinet sides, then cut a long, diagonal rail to fit along the edge of the understairs
cut a plywood panel to fit the space, and attach it to the nailing cover. Miter the ends of the diagonal rail to fit against the floor
strips with 1" screws. and the side wall, and miter the longer bottom rail to form a
clean Joint with the diagonal raii. Test-fit the rails, then attach
them with glue and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes.
18
Measure and cut 1 x 3 rails to cover the edges of the Measure and cut 1 x 2 stiles for the front edges of the
connecting shelf and the countertop. Miter the end of the cabinets. Attach the stiles, flush with the edges of the cabinet
countertop rail that Joins the long, diagonal raii. Attach the sides, using glue and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes.
shelf and countertop rails flush with the countertop and shelf
surfaces, using glue and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes.148 • T H E COM PL ETE GU IDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & RUI LT·I NS
Measure and cut 1 x 2 rails to fit between the stiles, so they cut base-shoe molding to cover gaps along wall and floor cover the cabinet shelf edges and are flush with the shelf tops. surfaces, miteri ng the corners. Tack the molding, using 2” finish Attach the rails, using glue and 2” finish nails driven through nails. sand, fill, and finish the understairs center. pilot holes.
21 22
Attach slide tracks for side-mounted Build, finish, and install drawers (see pages 48 to 49) and drawer hardware. drawer slides, according to the Purchase or build and finish cabinet doors and hang them using 3,,’ semi-concealed manufacturer’s directions. hinges.
Ullders/airs Work Cellfer • 149I Hobby Center If yo u or someo ne in yo ur family e njoys a hobby or activity, w het he r it’s co mputin g, sc rapboo ldng, drawing or anyt hing else that in vo lves pleasa nt time seated and I n thi s co rn er ho bby center, upper and ]mve r ca binets are combined to deli ve r exce llent and attractive sto rage o ptions. At th e sa me time, some engaged in yo ur avocat ion , YO LI deserve to have a specicd on -s ite ca rpe ntry c rea tes a sta ble frame for a spacious place set aside for that ac tivity. And here, it is important but not ove rpov,rering L ~s h aped des k. The laminate to note, “set aside” does not mea n “spread out on t he des kto p configu ration provides not just room to spread kitchen ta ble be tween family meals.” A dedi ca ted spot out a project or stage suppli es left an d ri ght, but a lso wi th loads of sto rage, a pleasing appeara nce a nd an provides three access points (ce nter, left, an d ri ght ) for efficien t foo tprint can all be obtained with this co rn e r you to e ither move around a large project or for othe rs hobby center provides th e thin gs you need to spend to pull up a c hair an d he lp or just watch, tim e o n you r act ivity, not managing it.
150 • TH E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
c
ATools Materials Cutting List Pe ncil (2) Base cabine ts Part No. Desc. Size Material Tape measure (2) Upper cab inets A Bose cabinets 24 x WI,” Level or laser level ( I ) Co rn er cabi net Drill/driver (2) 8 ft. 2 x 3 B Upper cobinets 18 x 30” Miter savv ( I ) Co untertop C Corner cabinet 24 x 30” Drl“‘all or deck D Wall deot l V1x 21/1 x 40 ” 2 x 3 screws E Oiogonol deal l V1 x2 Vl x59” 2 x 3 Finish na ils F l·shope (ounterlop IV1X 25 x 72” Custom make Finis hing materia ls
f-/ ohhyCellfer • 151
I How to Build a Hobby Center
LAY OUT UPPER CABINETS (photo 2 ). Set it be low the level line to s upport th e
Start wit h the upper ca binets first, then in stall cab inets during installatio n.
the base units. Once th e bases are set, frame
the desktop su pports and insta ll the countertop. LAY OUT THE BASES & DESKTOP
T he d es ktop is laminate an d while you can make Measuring along the top of the base molding from
it you rse lf, \vo rkin g \v ith laminates is a specia lty the corner, muke ma rks at 42" Cl nd 60" on the base
trad e a nd it is ofte n mu c h easie r to o rde r the unit trim. T hi s is t he locat ion of eClch base cabinet. Use a
and have it delivered pre~asse mbl ed. Locate and combinat ion sq uare and mark square lines dovm to
strike the leve l line for th e uppers 52 112" a bove th e the floor. The 18" of base/s hoe molding between the
flo o r. Project each line 42" out from th e v·/al l co rner lines \·vill be removed to accep t the base cabinets. In
(photo I ). the corne r, measure up 34 'h" (th e height of the base
Locate a nd mark the wal l studs below th e level ca binet) from th e Aoor a nd ma rk eac h side of t he wa ll
li ne. Fasten a temporary ledge r to the wa ll st uds (photo 3).
Project the level line for the upper cabinets 42" out from Fasten a ledger board for the upper cabinets just below the
each corner. level line.
Extend your tape in the corner and
3 mark each wall at 34%".152 • THE COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Plan Ahead ~
If you can pre-gang and install the upper cabinets in one shot, this will provide a quicker, more accurate installation, but
you'll need helpers to do this. It helps to transfer the location of the wall studs to the insides of the cabinets for future
reference so you're not searching for the studs while you're holding cabinets aloft (photo 41.4
.. … . \
Fasten the upper cabinet to the wall studs to hold it in Transfer the stud locations to the inside surfaces of the place, but do not drive the screws all the way (this allows for cabinets before you lift them. a little fine tuningl.
Note: If you have a carpet floor treat1llen t, it may be base molding. rn lis is dIe inside edge of the base cabinetw ise to place a base cahi’net in, position and use a 2Jt. and the outside edge of the desktop ledger board. Locate level to transfer its height to the wall. Remember, carpet the 1Vallstuds and mark them along the top edge of the ([-nd pad will COtllpreS5 some ance the cabinet has been level line . loadecllvith ite’lJ1.s so apply a little pressure lvhen doing this. O nce height is esta blished, strike a level line 61 ’/,” INSTALL THE UPPERS out on each wall. I f YO LI <:I re installing one cabinet at a ti me, start with TI1e reason to strike the line out to 61 !h- inches is the center ca bin et in th e corn er. Set it on th e ledger because the deshtop extends J ‘12 beyond the outside II board and then dri ve screws into the wa ll at stud edge of the base unit. Along the level line on eac1’.1Vall, locati ons (photo 5). Repeat for each e nd cabi net. mahe a 1uark at 42” and strike a plumb-Une down to the
Hohh)' Cellfer • 153
Before fully sinking wall screws, be sure the fronts of all Position the base cabinets at the layout lines and fasten
wall cabinets are flush. Make adjustments as necessary to get them to wall studs with screws.
them flush, clamp, pre-drill, then fasten.
8
Install ledgers below level line on wall studs. Note that cut the diagonal ledger brace with opposing miters. Long-
the second piece overlaps the first piece and must be cut 1'h" point to long-paint, it's 59".
shorter to fit
Before fully sinking t he wa ll screws, clamp the ATTACH DESKTOP LEDGER
cabinets toget her, dri ll pilot ho les in the cabinet sides Because the desktop is onl y suppo rted by cab inets
or face ffumes, <:I nd $creV,1 the m toge ther (pho to 6). on the olltside edges, YOLI m llst build a 3-p iece ledger
Complete the process by dr iving all wa ll screws tight ly system tha t supports the desktop both a long the
aga inst th e cabinet bac k. Add cabi net doors. wall and unde r the fron t edge of the desktop. 2 x 3s
\vork wel l for this. Cut a nd insta ll ledger pieces a lo ng
11
INSTALL THE BASE UNITS the \vall, fastening with two 3 screws into the wall
Remove the base mo ld ing a lread y marked usi ng a studs (pho to 8). Me"sure " nd c ut the fi rst piece to
pull -smv. Position the base un its <Jgainst the \,va ll at fit be t\.v een the wu ll a nd t he inside edge of a base
the layo ll t lines a nd the n shim a nd faste n t he base cab inet . A piece just shy of 42" sho uld fit. C ut and
cab inets to th e wa ll studs (photo 7). See pages 54 to insta ll t he second piece. A piece ju st s hy of 4 0 112 11
59 fo r more info rmat ion on insta lling ca binets. shou ld fit.154 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS
Cu t a 2 x 3 to 59" (Iong- to -Iong) with opposing insta lling scre\vs on a n angle (photo J 2). Be cu refuimiters (photo 9). Pre-dril l and pre-set screws in not to puncture th e top s urface of t he lam inate. th e mitered end s of the diagona l brace th e n insta ll (photo j 0 ). APPLY YOUR FINISH T he fini sh details are relatively minima l on this INSTAll THE DESKTOP project, since it is made out of prefin ished ca binets H ave a cus tom des ktop made to lit from particlebord and a pre-built desktop. Yo u ca n cau lk bet\vee n the and laminate, or any other suita bl e materials. Or, cab inet edges and t he wa ll as necessary, or \vrap t he make yo ur ow n (see pages 62 to 77). Get a he lper a nd base cab inet bottoms \·vi th base molding as necessa ry pb ce the desktop on top of t he base ca b ine t/ le dge r (you can skip thi s if the Aoor is carpe t) an d prime an d system (photo I I). F ine tun e th e desktop placeme n t pa int th e ledge r sys tem boa rds the sa me as th e wa ll o nto th e layo ut marks and faste n from be neath . color. One grea t addit ion is to instal l an undercab ine t Fasten from inside th e base ca binets as wel l as light be neat h the upper cabinets to provide focused throu gh th e ledger system’s di agonal brace . Fasten ing task li ghting (photo \3 ). throu gh th e di agona l brace req uires pre-drilling and
10
pre-drill (to prevent splitting) and pre-set screws in the With a helper, position the desktop on the cabinets and mitered ends of the diagonal brace and install. ledger system.
13pre-drill then drive screws at an angle through the diagonal install task lighting and add convenient receptacles brace into the desktop. according to your skill and comfort level with wiring.
Hohl')' Cellfer • 155I Bath Cabinet C abinetry and casework are fu ndame ntal to making bu il t- ins a nd boo kcases. T h is s ma ll wall-h un g ca b ine t is a useful item for bathroom the loo k and fee l of a ra ised pane l door, wi t hou t a ny of the fuss. \tVe bu ilt th e versio n of the cabi net YOLI see here or ki tchen, and it is a great project for a beginning out of No.2 and better p ine and t hen gave it a n ca rpe nte r to develop some bas ic cabi netry skill s. It ora ngey map le finis h. You ca n c hoose any lumber is also extremely inex pensive to make. The enti re you like fo r thi s, eve n sheet stock slich as j\lIDF, a nd case, in clud ing th e top, can be bui lt from an 8-ft.- app ly a clea r or a painted fi ni sh . For a trad itional look, lo ng p iccc of I X 10 wood (you’ ll nccd a li ttle extra c hoose a w hi te enamel pa int. Be su re and apply several material for the she lving a nd the towe l rod ). T he thin coats of polyuret hane varn ish , especia ll y if the mitered frames appl ied to t he fronts of t he door g ive cab inet wi ll be insta lled in a \vet area like a bathroo m .
156 • TH E COMPLETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS
Tools Pencil Tape measure Comb inati on square Router, proflling bit C ircular sa\, Jig saw C lamps Hammers Drill/driver 3// Spade bit
Materials ( 1)8ft.lxIO ( 1) 4ft. I x8 ( I) ‘1.” Dowel ( I) Scree n retainer molding ( 10 lineal ft. ) (2 ) Door knobs (2) Touch latches (2) Hi nges Drywall or deck sc rews Finish nails Finish ing material s
Cutting List Part No. Desc. Size Material A Top lf4 X 91/4 X 19 \11 I x 10 pine B 2 Sides 3f4 x 7 x 2m;. I x 100ri x 8pine 1/ ,
C 2 Doors 0/.x 9x15 IxlOpine D 2 Shelves 3/4 x 7 X 16 1/1 I X 8 pine t Square = 1” E Towel rod 0/. x 18” Dowel Wall cleot lf4 xl j, x16 I x 2 pine
TF 1 1h, 3/4” towel rod G Door molding Ishortl 1h x o/l x(utlont Retainer molding 0 H Door molding (long) lh x ¥. xcuttofit Retainer molding 51/4”
1
Bath Cab illet • 157
How to Build a Bath Cabinet
PREPARE THE STOCK Cut the top board to 19 1/2". Then , c ut a n ogee
This bathroom cabinet can be made a lmost entirely profile into th e fron t edge a nd the side edges llsin g a
from a single 8-ft. J x J 0 using basic too ls. (Jf yo u pi loted ogee bit (photo I). Be su re to attach blocking
buy a J O-footer you 'll have e noug h stoc k to make all a t th e back edges to preve nt the router bit from
but t he middl e she lf, whi c h ca n easil y be mad e from turning the corner and cutting into th e back edge. If
,m othe r piece of wood o r even glass. ) At you r local you don't own a router, you can simply hand-sand a
lum berya rd or building ce nter, hand-select a board roundover in the bottom edges or you can try cutti ng a
(pine or another wood: No.2 or better pine is mu c h chamfer profile with a hand plane (a tricky job, but a
cheaper than other types in most areas ). Look for a good ski ll to develop ).
board that's stra ight and free from defects li ke large Next, cu t the stock for both doors to length, plus a
knots or waney (bark-like ) edges. When you get th e litt le bit (cut a piece a round 30'h" long) a nd either rip-
board home, trim around 1/4 11 off eac h end (neve r trust cut the edges to get a clea n surface o n both si des or
the factory ends- they' re seldom squa re ly cut). sand them or plane them smooth (photo 2). The nna l
v,lidth of the materia l should be 9", Once th e stoc k is
prepared, cut the doors to length,
Shape a decorative profile into the top
using a router and pil oted agee bit. Do not
remove more than %" of material along
the bottom edges.
use a tablesaw, circu lar saw, plane or
sander to get straight, criSp edges on the
cabinet door stock.158 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS
Cut the stock fo r the cabinet sides to \vidth press. Las tl y, before you un elamp th e sides, locate(7 ’/''') or select a piece of I X 8 stock and si mpl y sand the cen terpoint for drilling th e ·W’-di a. dowel ho le th e edges . Then enlarge th e patt ern on page 157 for the towel rod . Drill t he ho le wit h a 3/)’ spade bi t, using a photocopier to make a hardboard template rn ak ing su re to s lip a backe r board underneat h the of th e curved sha pe . Trace the profile on one side , bottorn boa rd to preve nt tea rout \vhen the bit exits the refe renc ing up from t he bottom of the board (photo 3). workpiece (photo 5). Cbrnp the tvvo s ides together so th e ends a nd edges all are flu sh . The n, cu t out the profile in ASSEMBLE THE CABINET both pieces at once using a jig SJ>V (photo 4 ). Make Assembl ing your bathroorn ca binet is a sirnple process you r cuts j ust short of the cu tting line. When th e of glu ing, clarnping and nai ling. It is ,vo rth investing in cut is fin ished, do not unc larnp th e ga nged sides. a co upl e of 24” bar clarnps or pipe clarnps if you don ‘t Use a sa nder or a round file to srnoot h the cuts and O\vn t hem already, a lt hough another option is to use rernove waste wood exac tl y up to t he cutting lines. screws instead of nail s to faste n t he parts, relying on An osc illating spindle sander is t he best too l here. the scre\vs to provide clarnp-l ike press ure to the glue Another good idea is to rnOll nt a drurn sa nder in a drill joints. O nl y do thi s if yo u are painting the cab inet.
Photocopy the pattern on page 157 and use it to make a hardboard template a guide to trace the profile onto the bottom of one cabinet side.
Cut both side profiles at the same time, staying just outside Still with the sides ganged together, drill a %“·dia. hole for the cutting line so you can sand precisely up to the cutting line. the towel rod, using a backer board under the bottom side.
Balh Cahillel • 159
Press the two shelves and the cleat between the cabinet Reinforce the glued joints with 6d fillish nails driven into
sides after applying glue to the ends. pilot holes.
Glue the ends of the towel rod into the holes in the cabinet Miter the corners of screen retainer molding and nail and
sides and then pin it in place with a finish nail driven through glue decorative frames to the door fronts.
the back edge of each side.
Lay th e side boards o n a Aat surface, lying parallel cab inet sides . Once it is in position , pus h it in vvard Ihi!
and o n t heir back edges. C ut the j x 2 c leat a nd the or so o n one side a nd app ly g lue to the inside surfaces
7"-wide shelves to length ( j 6 'h"). Note: The sl/elves of the dowe l ho le. The n , press the rod from the other
are 1// narrower than the sides to provide clearance for side to revea l about 1// of the hole a nd app ly gl ue.
the doors. Position the cleat and the shelves between Push the rod so the e nd s are Au sh \,v ith the ca binet
the cabinet sides, making SHre ever),thing fits squarely. sides a nd the dri ve one 3d finish na il throug h th e back
Then, apply wood glHe to the ends of all three parts and e dge of eac h ca binet s ide a nd into th e dowel to pin it
clamp tl1Cm between the cabinet sides (photo 6). Then , in place (photo 8 ).
clamp the sides w ith bar c lamps an d c heck wit h a
framing squa re to ma ke sure the sides arc square HANG THE DOORS
to th e she lves. A lso make sure the middle shelf is C ut strips of half-round screen reta ine r mo ld ing to
perpen d icu lar to the s ides. m ake decorative fra mes fo r t he fro nts of the cabinet
Before the gl ue sets (abo llt 15 minutes) drive doors. Mi ter the co rn e rs (photo 9 ). The fra mes sho uld
three 6d nni s h nails thro ugh th e cabi ne t sid es and into be inset \11 or so from th e door edges on a ll sides .
eac h s he lf end . Drive a pair of nails into th e wa ll c leat Attac h the frames to th e door fronts w ith glue and a
(photo 7). It is always a good idea to drill pilot ho les few Ih!l wire b rad s.
for na iling. In sert the towel rod into the holes in the160 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Note: NOllJ is a good time to finish or paint your HANG THE CABINETbathroom cabinet. Be sure to sand all the surfaces well Loc ate wall stud s in th e insta lla tion a rea . Whe re
and Jllake sure yon remove any dried glue- th e stain poss ible, position th e ca binet so it hits two stud s.
and finish won’t stick to it. We used a geltype Swedish Attac h the c abinet wit h v·,rood sc rev,Is driven through
maple stain on our pine cabinet because it imparts a rich. the wa ll cleat an d int o the studs (photo J 3). If yo u
color (it resembles orange shellac ) and disguises the fact on ly have one stud avu ilable, dr ill u 1/4” ho le t hro ugh
that pine has very little wood grain . We added th ree thin t he c lea t , as fa r fro m stud locatio n as yo u cun ge t
coats of wipe-on varnish after the stain dried (photo 10). a nd still have access . Positi on th e ca binet agains t
Hang the cabinet doors with 11// brushed c hrome or t he wa ll a nd ma rk t he hole ont o th e wa ll by inserting
nic ke l butt hi nges (photo I I). In most cases, yo u’ll need a finish nail into th e hol e. Re move th e ca binet and
to c ut shallow mortises in the cu binet sides and doo r for install a plastic screw insert at the hole loca ti o n.
th e h inges. Ce nter the ca binet top so the overhang is He place the c abinet a nd dri ve a screw so it catc hes
equal on th e side and the back is flush with the cabinet the insert. Then releve l the cab inet and screw
back . Attach the top by d ri ving a fe w fini sh na ils through the wall clea t to th e wa ll at the s tud location. Drill
it and into th e top e dges of the cabine t sides, as \vcl l as p il ot ho les in the doors a nd install doo r knobs with
in to th e top edges of th e wa ll clea t (photo 12 ). You’re screws.
better off not usi ng glue to attac h the top.
Install a touch latc h at the top of each door opening.
Apply your finish or paint the cabinet before you hang the Hang the doors. Use care to position the doors so the outside doors and install the cabinet top. edges are flush with the outer faces of the cabinets sides. The tops should be about %” below the top edges of the cabinet sides.
13Attach the finished cabinet top to the cabinet sides with Hang the cabinet. If you don’t have access to two wall 4d finish nails. studs, use a plastic screw insert or other hanging hardware in addition to fastening the wall cleat to a wall stud.
Balh C(lhil1el • 161I Kneewall Cabinet kneewa ll is a sho rt wa ll that meets t he s lope o f The projec t shown here fits in a space that is A th e roo Rin e in an up sta irs room. By cutting a 30” wide- the standard width of two adjacent stud ho le in a kn eev.rall a nd instcdlin g a recesse d ca binet, cavities w it h a cente r st ud removed. Befo re begi n ni ng YO LI ca n turn t he wasted space beh in d it in to a useful ,vork, c heck th e spac ing of studs and the locat ion of storage area. e lec tri ca l or plumbing li nes be hind yo ur kn eewa ll. Because th e body (carcase ) of a kneewall cab inet Your kn eewa ll may have a remova ble access pa ne l, is not visi ble, it ca n be built using ordinary pl y’wod w hi c h makes it easy to c he ck behind th e wal l. and simple butt joints . T he face frame a nd drawe r You can make th e cabinet wider or na rrowe r to fit faces, however, shou ld be buil t \vith hardwood, and your wa ll st ud spacing, but regardl ess of size, be sure Anis hed carefull y. to leave a few inches of space between the back of th e ca binet a nd t he rafters.
162 • TH E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Cripple stud
Stud
Header (A)
, Stud
Rough
Outline of :
opening
-- face frame :
~ Cripple
Sill (A)
stu
FRAMING FRONT VIEW
Header (A)
, outlme
.
Outline of
cabinet_;'----:~--
V of face
frame
Sill
F;:::=;:t:;;lj-- (A)
Pedestals
FRAMING SIDE VIEW; CUTAWAYTools Materials Cutting List Level D ryv/a l\ or deck sc revvs Part No. Desc. Size Material C ircular saw or jig saw ( 1”, 2”, 3”) F inish nails ( 1Ihll, 2” , 3”) A H”der and sill 6 lin’” h. 2 x 4s Flat pry bar Reciprocating saw Wood glue B 2 Pedestals 14” xiS” 2 x 4s Dril l F inishing materi als C 2 Sides 19” x 28’/,” ‘I.” plywood Tape measure Drmver hardwa re D 2 Top and bottom 19” x 30” W plywood Bar or pip e clamps E 2 Shelves 19” x 28Y,” W plywood Hammer F Bock ponel 30” x 30” ’!.” plywood Na il set G Face frame II lin’” ft. Ix400k H Shelf roils 5 lin”, h. Ix200k Drawers see poges 4B to 49
Klleewall Cabillet • 163
KNEEWALL CABINET PROJECT DETAILS
pedestals installed behind the kneewall create a sturdy Face frame is 1 x 4 hardwood, which will cover the rough
base for the cabinet Built from 2 x 4s, the pedestals raise the edges of the wall opening The shelf rails are made from 1 x 2
cabinet so it fits above the sill. Raising the cabinet also makes hardwood to maximize the size of the drawer openings.
drawers more accessible.
I How to Build a Kneewall Cabinet
Locate wall studs in area where cabinet will be installed. Cut away the center stud at the top and bottom of
Mark the cutout on the wall, using a level as a guide. Bottom the opening, using a reciprocating saw Remove the stud .
of cutout should be at least 3" above baseboard, and sides Remaining portions of cut studs are called "cripple" studs.
of cutout should follow edges of wall studs. Height of cutout
should be 3'/." taller than overall height of cabinet, to allow
space for a header and sill. Caution: Check for wiring, pipes,
and ductwork before cutting into any wall.164 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Measure and cut a 2 x 4 header and sill to fit snugly between Measure the distance from the floor behind the opening to side studs. Position in opening, check for level, and shim if the top of the sill, and build two 2 x 4 pedestals to this height necessary. Attach the header and sill to the cripple studs and {see Project Details, previous pagel. Join pedestal pieces side studs, using 3” screws. together with glue and 3” screws.
set the pedestals on the floor inside the wall opening, even Measure width and height of the rough opening between with the sides of the framed opening. Check to make sure framing members. Cut side panels 2” shorter than the height pedestals are level, and shim between the pedestals and the of rough opening. Cut top and bottom panels ’/,” shorter than floor if necessary. Attach pedestals to the floor, using 3” screws. the width of rough opening. Cut shelves 1’j,” shorter than the width of the opening
Klleell'nll Cnhillel • 165
Attach drawer slide tracks to the Clamp and glue the shelves to the Clamp and glue the top and bottom
center of the bottom panel and the side panels to form butt Joints. Reinforce panels to the side panels, then reinforce
shelves, following manufacturer's the joints with 2" screws driven through the joints with 2" screws.
directions. the side panels and into the edges of
shelves.
Measure and cut 'f," plywood panel to cover the back of the Measure the width and height between the inside edges
cabinet. Attach with 1" screws or wire nails driven through the of the cabinet. Cut the rails to the width. Cut the stiles to
back and into the side, top, and bottom panels. the height plus 7". Clamp and glue rails between stiles, and
reinforce joints by toenailing 3" fin ish nails through the rails
and into the stiles.166 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Apply glue to the edges of the cabinet. then position the face Slide the cabinet into the opening so it rests on the frame over the cabinet so the inside edges of the face frame pedestals and the face frame is against the wall surface. are flush with the top, bottom, and side panels. Attach the face frame by drilling pilot holes and driving 1’/,” finish nails into the cabinet every 8”. use a nail set to countersink the nail heads.
Anchor the cabinet by drilling pilot holes and driving 3” Sand and finish the cabinet face frame, then build, finish, and finish nails through the face frame and into the wall framing install overlay drawers (pages 48 to 49). members. Also, drive 3” finish nails through the bottom of the cabinet and into the sill.
Klleell'nll Cnhillel • 167I Club Bar O wning your own in-house bar makes a statement about you. For some, it might say ”[ have arrived <J nd this is my space!” vV hi le fo r others a bar might Wh ile thi s is a “dry bar” (no plum bing), the design could be mod ified in any number of \vays to add runn ing V,lelter if you v,fish . AJI yo u need to get the party started is say “vVelcome, friends, O U f home is you r home.” And a GFC ! electrical outlet a nd t he proper Aoor space. for ot he rs, we ll , let’s just say t he possi bil it ies a re fa irl y T h is compact corner bar des ign Featu res glossy wide-ra ngi ng. Bu t whatever stol)’ you r bar te ll s- be it black MDF aprons with decorative c herry app liques one of quiet aperi tifs before d ining, casual afternoo ns fo rm ing a horizo ntal grid pattern on the aprons. A che rry watch ing t he big game, or raucous evenings of wild p lywood ba rtop sits atop a 2 X 6 L-shapcd knccwall , revelry- building you r bar yourself personalizes t he harboring so me practica l amen ities o n t he bartender tale a nd adds a featu re to you r home that wil l have a side. A Ai p-up lift gate in t he bartop on one end prO\odes d irect impact on ho”v we ll YO LI e njoy yo ur home li fe. reiss-through access a nd ca n even function as a v,lait T he bar show n here is sleekly styled and smartl y station if you “/ant to get really fancy in yo ur hosting laid out for the effic ient ba rkeeper. A sma ll refrigerator T he key co m po nents- base ca binets, a laminate gives YOll access to cold dri n ks an d ice \v hi le coun te rtop, the fridge , an d the wood For a sleek Asia n- conve ni e nt cabinets create excellent storage spo ts For ins pi red style trim-ou t -se t the stage fo r you r next pa rty favo rs. gathering. Let’s pa rty.
168 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
C11l1~ Bar • 169
170 • T H E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUILT-INS
Tools
Miter saw
Tab le saw
Circular S3\V
Drill/driver
Level
Stud finder
Pull S3\'V
Flat bar
Pn eu matic nai ler/compressor
Comb ina tion squareMaterials 24” base cabine t (l0) 2 x 6” x 8 ft. SPF Hefrigerator ( 19w 22d 32- 3/’” h) (I ) % x 4 x 8 cherry plywood for bartop Postform cou ntertop (I ) 3j, x 4 x 8 particleboard (mi tered, 6 ft. eac h leg) (2 ) 6 ft. st ri ps ‘h x 16” cemen t board 16d co m mon nails 20 sq . ft. 4 x 4 \·va ll tile Pan el adhesive Thinset and grout [ Ih” wa llboard screH’s ‘1;” thi ck cherry- 2 @8 x 42” (actual ) Finish nai ls (4d, 6d ) 3/, x 1’I,” c he rry approx 80 lineal ft. Finishing materials (2) ‘I,” x 4 x 8 ft. MDP Glue 36” base cabinet~ co rn er ( 12” ,vide doors ) Piano hi nge
Cutting List
Part No. Desc. Size Material
A 4 Sill/heoder 11/1x 5111 x 68" 2x 6
B II Stud lVl x 5Vl x 38" 2x 6
c 2 Bartop 0/. x 16 Vl X 80" Cherry plywood
D Bm substrate 3,1. x 16 Vl x 80" Particleboard
E I Bar substrate 0/. x 16Vl x 65 V4' Particleboard
F 2 lift gote 0/. x 16 Vl X 22 1//' Cherry plywood
G Bortop trim 0/. x 1W' x cut to fit Cherry
H 2 End cop 0/. x 7V. x 41" Cherry
7 Trim stiles l/. x lVl x41" Cherry
J 16 Trim rails 3f4 x lVl x cut to fit Cherry
K (ountertop cleol 1111 x 1111 x 22" 2x 2
L lift gote stop black %x lVl x 18" Cherry
M Apran Vl x 40Vl x 68%" MDF
N Apran Vl x 40Vl x 68%" MDF
Cluh Bar • 171
How to Build a Club Bar
Anchor the sill plates for the kneewalls
to the floor so they form a right angle at
the corner where they meet.
use panel adhesive and deck screws
to attach the end kneewall stud to the
back wall, attaching at a stud location
wherever possible.
BUILD THE KNEEWALLS overlaps the open end of th e Rrst si ll plate and the two
The ba r top is s upported by a pa ir of heavy-duty 2 x 6 form a perfect 90 degree angle. Join t he corne rs w ith
kncc\valls th at arc anchored to t he wal l and fl oo r unci screws or a metal connector to keep them from moving
m ee t in an L. This co nfi guration pres um es rhGlt yo u'll during installation, and the n anchor the si ll plates to the
be in sta lling the bar in th e corn e r of th e room . If th at fl oor. Use 16d common nails or screws (shown in photo
con fi guration does n't work for your space, YO LI ca n use I) and panel adhes ive for a wood floor; use a powder-
si m ilar build ing strategies, but redeSign the project as actuated nailer on a concrete floor (photo I).
a stra ight -l in e o r a U-s ha pe bar. Once the sills are in place, attac h the e nd stud
Cut the 2 x 6 sill plates to length (68"). Measu re aga inst the back wa ll. If yo u are lucky (or planned we ll)
out from the corner the distance of the sill plates plus Lhe th e stud will fa ll over a wa ll stud. If th e new kneewa ll
pass-through opening width plus 3// for the thi ckness of must fall ove r a stud bay in th e room wal l, you'll need
the end panel (923j," here). Mark a refere nce line and to remove some wa llcovcring and install a nailing cleat
lay a sill plate at this di stance, perpendi cu lar to the bac k between the closest wall sluds so YO LI have a very sturdy
project wa ll. Arra nge th e second sill plate so th e end surface to anchor the e nd of the wa ll (photo 2).172 • T HE COM PL ETE CU I DE TO CUSTOM SHELVES & BU l t:l’ INS
Toe-nail the corner studs to the3 sill plates as shown in the diagram on page 170. Use a level to make sure the studs are vertical.
complete the framing for the L-shaped
kneewa ll section. For extra strength, drive
a few 3" deck screws through the studs
where they meet at the corner.
Next , make th e stud wa ll corne r, follo wing th e MAKE THE APRONS AND TRIMdiagram on page 170. Use 16d co mm o n nail s to toe- The decorative front apro ns for thi s ba r a re made na il the studs to the si ll pla tes (photo 3). Install a stud from ‘h”-thi c k IV1 DF (medium-density fibe rboard) at th e free end of the return , then fill in wi th eve nl y panels that have a glossy blac k finish a nd arc trimmed spaced inte rm ed iate studs spaced no morc than 16 1t \vit h strips of c herry arranged ina staggered ladde r apart. C ut cap p lates th e sa me size as the si ll plates pattern. If you’ re feel ing ambitious, app ly a genuine and insta ll them with pane l adhesive and three 16d black lacquer Ilni sh. Or, yo u ca n co rn e close to th e common Il<:liis dri ve n t hrough th e top s of the ca ps and black lacquer look wit h a q ua lity sa tin or gloss jet into th e end of eac h wall stud (photo 4). C heck eac h black enamel pai nt. Either way, for the smoo th es t stud with a level before na ili ng. possible fi ni sh, c ut a nd prepare th e pane ls a nd spray on the blac k lacquer fini s h wi th an H VLP spraye r.
C 11l1~ Bar • 173
Rip tvvo sheets of Ill" iVI DF to 42" \,vide a nd then trim Sa nd the edges of th e cherry trim to re move saw
th em to length to make the bar fro nt pa nels. Sand t he marks and smooth the surfaces. Apply a clear protective
edges to re move any saw marks. Then, appl y primer wood fi nish, suc h as wipe-o n polyurethane varni sh,
to a ll faces and edges. When the primer dri es, spray to half th e stoc k for LI se as apron trim (p hoto 7). T he
b lac k lacquer or pai nt onto th e fro nt face and edges other halF of the stock \,vill be lIsed Fo r edging the
(photo 5). I f you do not have access to a good sprayer, coun tertop . You 'll need to cut an edge profi le in this
use a pain t ro lle r with a sho rt-nap sleeve. stoc k and attach it to the cou ntertop befo re fi ni shing it.
After installa t ion , th e bla c k apro ns w il l be
decorated with a grid made fro m strips of che ny. INSTALL THE KNEEWALL COVERINGS
You can use dim e nsio nal 1 X 2 che rry fo r thi s, but T he front faces of th e L -shaped kneewall are cove red
yo u' ll save a lot of money a nd ge t better edges if you with th e aprons and apron trim. T he bac k sides
purchase rando m widt h cherry, th en plane an d jo int (the bartende r view) can be cove red with ju st about
it to thi ckn ess and rip it to widt h (p hoto 6) . For th e anythi ng you wis h. \;Ve used a ceme nt board bac ker
projec t sh own here, yo u'l l need at leas t 40 l inea l fee t and some wa ll tile for a nice looking wa lt coverin g that's
of stock fo r t he apron t rim , pillS another 40 ft. for the du rable and easy to clea n. It's easier to insta ll th ese
bar co un te rtop edging. wa llcoveri ngs before the bartop has been in stalled.
For the smoothest possible finish, spray the front apron prepare at least 80 lineal feet of '/. x 1'(," hardwood stock to
panels with an HVLP sprayer Apply the paint or lacquer over trim out the aprons and edges of the bartop.
primer, in thi n coats.
For efficiency, apply a protective finish to the cherry apron Apply panel adhesive to the kneewall studs to strengthen
trim stock. Dab some finish on the cut ends after you cut each the bond with the black aprons. Slip a 'I.-thick spacer beneath
trim piece to length. each apron to create a gap between the panel and the floor.174 • TH E COM PL ETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Nail the apron panels to the wall studs at 8” to 12” intervals. Attach cement board strips to the edges of the kneewall framing members as a backer for the backsplash area.
Install the inside wallcovering before11 you cap the wa ll.
You don't need to create fu ll toe-kick recesses Depending o n \vha t type of cab ine ts you're<:It the bottoms of the Clpro n panels, alt hough you insta ll ing, it like ly is not necess<:Iry to fin ish the inside
ce rtainly ca ll if YO LI w ish. But it is a good idea to in sta ll faces of the kneewa lls lovve r than the COlln tertop
the MDF apro ns so they arc not in co ntact .vith t he he ight. For install in g ,vall ti le, we cut 1 61’wide
fl oo r, espec ia lly if yo ur installat ion is going into a strips of ‘h ” t hic k ceme nt board and attac hed t he m
base ment or any ot he r area that Inay be subject to to t he wa ll st uds flus h wi t h the top of the cap p late
moistu re problems . The eas iest \·vay to do th is is simply (p ho to I 0 ). Make sure that scams fa ll ove r studs.
to cut a p iece of II/I-thick sheet stoc k sc rap an d sli p it Insta ll the wall ti le (p hoto I I ). We used
up aga inst the sill plate. T he n, test the fit of t he apron inexpe nsive 4 x 4 ” ceramic \va ll ti le set into a layer
panels. Trim if needed , t hen app ly beads of pa ne l of th inset adh esive t hat’s trowe led onto the cemen t
ad hesive to t he front edges of t he .va ll frame members board . Whic hever \va ll covering yo u use, it sho u ld
(p hoto 8 ) a nd attac h t he ap ro ns w it h a pneuma t ic extend down past th e top of t he cou nte rtop (in th is
na il er a nd 2 ‘h” finis h nails (pho to 9). You can hand- nai l case , t he top of t he p refo rm ed backs p lash ), and the
them at wal l stud locatio ns wit h 6d finish nai ls if you e dges shou ld be cove red by the e nd panel you’ ll be
p refer. Cover nail heads w it h wood putty. insta ll ing at t he free end of the kneewal l.
C 11l1~ Bar • 175
INSTALL THE BARTOP
12 T he bartop insta ll ed here is made of a particleboard
subbase that's thoroughly bo nd ed and screwed to the
top p lates of the !meewal!. A cherry p lywood top layer
then is attached to the narrow particleboard subbase.
The s ubbase is laid out wi th a butt joint at the corn er
for ease and for strengt h, but for a more refined
appearance th e pl ywood top is mitered at the corn er.
When 3// ~t hick c herry edging is added on all sides,
the barlop g rO\vs to a finished width of ISH (a normal
countc rtop, suc h as the bartender's cou ntc rtop on th e
ca bi nets below, is 25" wide ).
liip the particleboard to 16'/, " wide and th e n
crosscut it to le ngth (one piece is lo nge r so they can be
Bond the particleboard subbase directly to the top plates
of the kneewalls, taking care to achieve even overhangs of 6" bu tted together). Attac h the strip s to the to p plates of
in front and 4" on the bartender side of the walls. the knccwalls using panel adhes ive and co untersu nk
deck sc rews (photo 12). Iv lake sure to al ig n the
subbase strips carefu ll y. T hey s hou ld overhang the
!meewa lls by roughl y 6" in front a nd 4 " in back.
13 Once you have bot h subb ase parts arranged
perfectly, drive 2" d eck sc re\vs through the subb ase
and into th e bar wall (photo 13 ). Be very genero u s
he re. If yo u can't ge t th e screw head s to seat
beneath the s urface of the subbase, drill cou nter-
sun k pilot ho les.
Cut the c he rry plywood sheet into 16 1h" wide
str ips, then cut mat in g miter jo ints at the ends
(photo J 4 ). Take care here: most hardwood pl ywood
has one side that is mllch nicer, so be Slife the cuts are
made so the co rrect faces ,·viil be facing up when th e
bartop is insta lled. A c irc ula r saw \,vith a sharp panel~
Drive plenty of 2" deck screws to secure the subbase to cuttin g blade and a straig htedge gui de may be u sed to
the walls. The screw heads must be sunk beneath the wood make th ese cuts.
surface. Attac h th e top layer of che rry pl ywood to the
subbase v·,Iit h pane l adhesive a nd J 1/4" wa ll board screws
drive n li p through the subbase a nd into the underside
of th e plywood laye r (photo 15 ). Make su re the
mite red corn er fits together correctly before ap plyi ng
any adhes ive or cutting the p lywood s trip s to le ngth
(T ip: Wa it until the plywood layer is attached to the
subbase to cu t the s trip on t he free en d to length. T hat
\vay, you ca n cut it and th e sub base at th e same tim e
and e ns ure that they a re exac tl y Aush ).
C heck to make s ure the e dges of the glu ed- up
bartop are s mooth an d fiat , a nd sand w ith a belt
sa nde r if th ey a re out of al ignm en t o r there is a lot
of g lue squeeze-ou t (usc n ne grit sandpape r to hclp
prevent a n y splintering of th e venee r layer). tVlount
a 'h l! to W' rou ndover bit in a router or router tabl e
Make 4s-degree miter cuts in the bartop top layer using a and cu t rou ndover pron les alo ng one edge of t he
circular saw and cutting guide. J X 2 stock you dressed to use for bartop e dging.176 • TH E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS
Attac h t he edging strips to the countertop with glue , sectio n of t he co un te rtop as \ve ll and fi n ish it the same 4d Rnis h nails d rive n into pilot ho les, a nd plenty of v,lay, except make it fro m t\VO layers of c herry plyvvood pipe clamps or bar clam ps (p hoto 16). Make sure th e an d ap ply a clear finish to bot h faces. tops of t he e dging boards a re flu sh ,vit h o r s li ghtly h igher t ha n t he plywood surface. If necessary, sand t he INSTALL TRIM AND HARDWARE edg ing unti l it is flush a fter you remove t he c lamps. At Hip-cut a strip of c her ry t hat’s sl igh tl y wider tha n the open countertop end , exte nd th e edg ing 3/./ pas t t he distance fro m the t il ed wall surface to 3/./ past the end of t he glued -up layers. t he apro n fro nt s (a bo ut 8”) and th e n c u t it to fit C ut a piece of 1 X 2 edgi ng to fit be t,veen the be t\A/ ee n t he fl oo r a nd the u nd ersi de of the bart o p , ends of th e edg ing o n t he ope n e nd of th e counte rtop w h ich shou ld overhang the en d wall stud by 3// o r a nd attach it wit h glue a nd Rn is h nails (p hoto 17). s light ly mo re (photo 18 ). Cu t another ident ica l Sand a ll wood su rfaces . Apply mu ltip le coats of very stri p. Attach one st rip to t he e n d of the kneewa ll dura ble, glossy polyu ret hane varn is h to achieve a a nd attac h t he other to th e wall on the oppos ite protective bu ilt-up Rnis h. Also pa in t t he unde rs ide of s ide of the pass-through so t he t\vo strips a re the ba rtop blac k where it is visible. Bui ld the lift gate pe rfec tl y alig ned .
Laminate the top layer of cherry plywood to the subbase Cut a roundover profile in one edge of the cherry edging with panel adhesives and 1’/,’ screws driven up through the stock and then cut the parts to length and attach them to the subbase. edges of the bartop with nails, glue and clamps.
Square-cut a piece of 1 x 2 edging to fit exactly between the Nail the cherry end panel to the wall end to conceal the ends of the roundover edging, and nail and glue it into place. stud wall and the edges of the wallcoverings and trim.
C11l1~ Bar • 177
C ut a strip of I x 2 cherry to 18" long a nd attach
19 it to the wa ll , centered over th e 9tl-wide end pane l
(photo 19). This st rip wi ll fun c tion as the stop for
the lift ga te sec tion of co unte rtop. For cons iste ncy,
roundovcr th e to p e dges of th e I x 2 so it looks like a
section of co untc rtop .
Attac h a pia no hinge to the square-cut mating
e dge of t he lift gate co unte rto p section (photo 20).
The barre l of th e piano hin ge shou ld be ori e nte d
upwmd relative to th e burtop surface. Attac h the
ot he r leaf of t he piano hin ge to th e edge of t he main
counte rtop a nd tes t to see if it opens and closes easil y
an d is level whe n open (photo 2 1).
Cut the c he rry t ri m pieces to size to make the
Attach a 1 x 2 stop block for the li ft gate to the wall directly ladder grid s that de corate the aprons. Instal l th e strips,
above the wall-mounted end panel.
following th e patterns shown o n page 170 (photo 22).
Make su re the e nds of the st rips a re tucked Aus h
again st th e inside fa ce o f th e c he rry e nd pa ne l.
20 INSTALL THE CABINETS
You ca n a ppoint th e bartender's area of t he Club Bar
just about any way yo u wish because th e bartop and
wa ll are freestanding, inde pende nt stru ctures . \Ale
c hose to insta ll a cou ple of base ca bin ets, a dorm -s ize
refrigerator an d an econom ica l, low-maintenance
postform cOllntertop. Start by placing th e corn e r
ca binet in th e corn er. Place the 24" ca binet to th e
right of the corne r ca binet . Flush up th e face frames
( if they have th e m ; th e ones seen here are frameless )
and clamp th e ca bine ts together wi th ba r clamps.
Pre-drill , co untersin k, and sc rew th e face frames or
cab inets s ides together (see pages 62 to 77 for more
Attach the piano hinge to the lift gate section of countertop informatio n on in stalling cOllntertops).
first, then attach the other leaf to the countertop.
21
Attach the lift gate to the countertop and test to make sure Add the decorative cherry strips in a ladder grid pattern,
it operates smoothly and correctly using an air nailer. Start with the vertical strips, then cut the
horizontals to fit.178 • THE COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Attach a countertop to the base
cabinets to create an easy-to-clean
work surface for the bartender.
Slide in a refrigerator, keg-o-rator
or any appliance you choose.
Install a cou n tertop for th e barte nder (photo 23 ). PARTY TIMEWe c hose <:111 inexpensive postform co unte rto p ,vit h In vite fri e nd s an d family to gat her ‘ro und . As th ey say in a pre-c lit mite red corne r. If you’ve left o ne e nd of Latin: Hes Ipso Loquitor: “T he T hing Speaks For Itself.’· t he ba r open for a refrigera to r, install a wa ll clea t to Or, as one of my frien ds might say: “Jt’s beer-thirty.” s upport t he cou ntc rtop above t he refrigerator. Plug in a nd s li de in you r refrigerator (photo 2 4 ), add a cou ple of strand s of holid ay li ghts or any ot he r decor you fancy.
C llll~ Bar • 179
•
.J
J
I"' ,
SHELVING , ' '1
PROJECTS •
II .
I Shelving Basics he n making shelves for your Aoor-to-ceil ing W she lves or util ity she lves, choose shelving materials appropriate for the loads they mll s t support. T hin glass shelves or particleboard ca n eas il y support light loads, sll c h as decorati ve glassware, but on ly the sturdi es t she lves ca n hold a large tel evision set or heavy re fere nce books without bend ing or breaking. T he strength of a she lf depend s on its span- the di stance be tween ve rtica l ri sers. I n general, the span shou ld be no more than 36” long. Bui lding yo ur O\vn shelves from fi ni sh-grade plywood edged with hardvmod st rips is a good choice for most carpentry projects. Edged pl yv,‘ood shelves are stro ng, attrac ti ve , and much less expens ive th an so lid hardwood shelves.
Tools & Materials ~
Hight-angle drill gu ide Sc rap pegboard
Drill with bi ts Pin -s tyle she lf
IVi arlGn g gauge supports
Rou ter Metal she lf
Ham mer standards
Na il set Shelf clips
Shelvi ng ma teri al Fi ni sh nail s
314" finish-grade
plywood edged
with 1 x 2
hardwood
Attaeh hardwood edging or moldings to the front face of
plywood shelves, using wood glue and finish nails. Position
the edging so the top is slightly above the plywood surface,
then drill pilot holes and drive finish nails. Use a nail set to
countersink the nail heads. sand the edging so it is smooth
with the plywood surface before you finish the shelf For
greater strength, edge plywood shelves with 1 x 2 or 1 x 3
hardwood boards.182 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUlLT-l NS
• •Shelf peg • • • • • • • • • •
Clip
CleatsCleats are Track often fastened to shelves with Dado joint glue and dowels. The tracks sit in They are fixed to grooves in the vertical. verticals and the wall with screws.
There are several types of l- brackets available at home centers. Choose the bracket most suitable for the weight load of Shelf span is the distance between risers. A shorter span shelving. strengthens a shelf.
I Modular Shelving S he lving is not a one-size-fits-all pro pos ition. You r bee r ca n co ll ectio n has enti re ly diffe rent shelving needs from yo ur Encyc lopedia Bri ttan ica volum es, One good way to custom ize shelvin g is to ma ke modu lar shelves with adjustab le supports. \tVh ile display shelves can be as narrow as a which in turn have equ<J ll y d iffere nt de mands from couple of inches, typical storage shelves range yo u r pape rback novels. The bea uty of making yo ur between I I ” (bookcases) an d 24” (closet or cabinet ow n she lving is that YO LI ca n eas ily c ll stom ize bot h depth). In th is sec tion you’ll learn how to make and th e size an d th e support mecha n ism to yo u r needs . fini s h custom shelves to any w idt h you choose.
Great for closets and utility storage, modular shelves are supported by adjustable pins or brackets so you can easily increase or
decrease the space between shelves to meet your storage needs.
Tips for Making Shelves ~
Rip-cut shelves to the exact width you need from sheet Heat-activated veneer edge tape can be applied to
stOCk. Quality plywood offers the most strength, but the edges of plywood or particleboard shelves for a more
for ease of cleaning you'll appreciate melamine-coated finished appearance.
particleboard.184 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS
I How to Install Pin-style Supports for Adjustable Shelves
Mount a drill and %” bit in a right-angle drill guide, with the When the bookcase or built-in is completed, build drill-stop set for %” cutting depth . Align a pegboard scrap shelves that are W’ shorter than the distance between along the inside face of each shelf standard, exactly flush with standards. To mount each shelf, insert a pair of W’ pin-style the end, to use as a template. Drill two rows of parallel holes shelf supports in each riser in each riser, about 1’h” from the edges of riser, using the pegboard holes as a guide.
I How to Install Metal Standards for Adjustable Shelves
Mark two parallel dado grooves on the inside face of each Cut dadoes to depth and thickness of metal tracks, using standard, using a marking gauge. Grooves should be at least 1” a router. Test-fit tracks to make sure they fit, then remove from the edges. them.
After finishing the built-in, cut metal tracks to length to fit into Make shelves so they are W’ shorter than the distance dadoes and attach them using nails or screws provided by the between standards, then insert shelf clips into the slots in the manufacturer. Make sure slots in tracks are aligned properly so metal tracks, and install shelves. shelves will be level.
Modular SlleiFillg • 185I Installing Wire Shelving ire s helving provides a quick and easy solution vert ical may be di rectl y fastened to the wa ll. Shelf W to a cluttered closet. It lacks adjustability bu t is brackets the n snap into the ve rticals an d shelves are set neve rtheless an inexpensive option to help o rgclll ize o n top of the shelf supports. These syste ms a re via ble you r closet. Basic wire shelving is attac hed to \va ll s closet orga ni zers but ca nnot bear as much we ight as wit h su pport brackets. Fo r e nti re wa ll le ngt hs we wood or me lam ine systems. T he span should be kept to reco m me nd fi nd ing a sys te m that also has re tu rn 36” or less and have adeq uate suppo rt- by hitting studs wa ll brac kets (o ften called “s ide wa ll brackets”) a nd where you can and us ing togg le bo lts every 16” . suppo rt clips. Both drywa ll shclf clips a nd stud s he lf cl ips are ava ilable at home cen ters. Support brackets p laced at stud locations furt her sta b ilize the unit. Tools & Materials ~ A sl ightly adva nced style of wire shelving that is increas ing in popularity is track-mounted . It is available Measuri ng tape She lVing system and in more styles tha n stclll dard w hi te Vinyl-coated \A/ire Level ha rd vvare shelving. This type of \·vi re shelving consists of a Hacksaw Dri ll ho ri zo nta l ra il track that s u pports vertica l ra ils, o r the
I How to Install Wire Shelving
MEASURE WALLS AND MARK FOR
SHELVING PLACEMENT
Measu re the le ngt h of t he back wa ll a nd t he side
wa lls. l\ileasure up from the gro und to the desired
he ight for the top shelf and drm-v a leve l li ne on eac h
side wall. Note: The average miIdmU1H height above
ground is 48". Mark a ll stud locations along the back
wa ll and side wa lls.
CUT WIRE SHELVING
Measure your closet. and draw a level li ne 48" up from the
C ut wire shelving to fi t between wa lls, using a
floor.
hacksm-v. For shelving lengt hs greater than 8 ft.,
cut mu lti ple shelves an d con nect them with the
manufactu rer's co nnectors (w hic h are ofte n sold at
home centers th at carry \,vire s helving) .
ATTACH SIDE-WALL SUPPORTS
On a side \va ll , dete rm ine placement of the side-\va ll
support accord ing to man ufacturer instructio ns. If
instructions are not provided by the manuFact ure r, fi t
the su ppo rt in place on the wire shelf an d then, \,vhile
ho ld ing th e shelf in place along the leve l lines, mark
the screw hole placeme nts for the side-wall su ppo rts
on the s ide wa lls.
Predri ll ho les at th e marked side-wall support
locations. Hold a support in place and insert a toggle
bolt thro ugh the su pport into the \va ll. Repeat \vith Measure and mark the length of the shelving onto the wire.
the other side-wa ll su pport. Note: If YO H can hit a stld, Cut the wire shelving to length, using a hacksaw186 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Fit the side-wall bracket in place on the wire shelf and then, Mark the clip locations centered on spaces in the wire. holding the shelf in place along the level line on back wall, mark (Inset) Mark actual Clip-pin hole placement according to the screw hole placements for the support on the side wall. manufacturer instructions.
5 6
predrill holes for the wall clips to the size and depth Lower the wire shelving into place. Snap the support clips recommended by the clip manufacturer over th e wire shelving.
a toggLe bolt is not necessary; i’nstclld, use a standard by pressing the manufacturer pi n through th e c li p J ‘f, ” drpvall screw. and into the wa ll. Use C;I ha rnrn er to tap st u bbo rn pins Place the wire shelving into t he s ide-wa ll into the wal l. Lower \f ire shelvin g into the side-v,rall su pports. Simply lower t he shelvi ng into place until it supports u nt il they sna p into place. Gently press the c li cks into the supports. Have a helper hold the she lf back of the shel vin g into the s upport c lips. so that th e two side-wa ll brackets a re not beari ng the load of the s helf. Check for leve l. ATTACH SUPPORT BRACKETS Wh e re possib le, align support brackets at stud MARK WALL FOR SUPPORT CLIPS locations. Ma rk screw ho les on \vaJI. Deterrn ine w here ‘vVith w ire s he lving sti ll fit into the side-\val l sup ports, the ot her brackets w ill go o n the wa ll for C;I uni for rn 11 11 make a ma rk approximatel y every 6 a long the \val L appear<:II1ce. Space brackets approx irnate ly eve ry 16 Space the mar ks even ly be twee n st uds. apart a long th e bac k wa ll. Remove the w ire she lving. Hold a c lip at each Attach wa ll brac kets at stud marks, drilling screws mark, acco rding to manufactu rer instructions, and th rough t he bracke t holes and into the ancho rs. For mark the pin-hole loca ti o n . Note: There is an offset fr01ll brackets that are not faste ned to studs, use toggJ e bolts. the level line on. the wall that must be taken i-l1tO account. Fasten the ot her end of the brackets to the w ire shelving accord ing to the rn anufac turer ins tru ctio ns. INSERT THE SUPPORT CLIPS IN THE WALL Predrill holes at th e s upport clip marks on the back wed l for the pin-hole plClcem ent. In se rt the vVC;l lI cl ips
II/Mal/il1g Wire SlleiFil1g • 187I Formal Bookcase F ew furnishings add prestige to a space like a form a l Aoor-to-ceiling bookcase. Typica ll y built from clear hardvvood, the class ica ll y-designed bookcase deli vers bu ilt in a modular fash ion , yo u can design it to any dim ensions yo u w ish. The fo rma l bookcase shown he re is 8 ft . long, 8 ft. a re Rn ed, O ld World fee l. The bookcase show n here is high and in stall ed on a J 2-ft. long wal l. Because it’s made from red oak plywood an d red oak I x stock and ce ntered in th e space , the mold ings an d sides return moldi ngs flni shed with a high gloss urethane. V\1hat’s to th e wa ll , crea tin g nic hes on th e left an d right that also nice about thi s piece is that it incorporate s the arc great for decoration . Howeve r, thi s bookcase can wa ll be hi nd it to ba lance all th at clear hardwood wit h be built wa ll -to-wall if desired . It’s a Aexi ble des ign. a spl as h of co lor and depth. Th is is a fixed-shelf design Fina ll y, the exact same style shelf ca n be built to take th at enables you to bu ild s he lves anyw here you like pa int. I nstead of using red oak, though, pop lar is a to matc h your needs. And, beca use th e s he lf bays me grea t choice for a pai nted finis h.
188 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS
Tools Mi te r saw Table saw C ircu lar saw Router Drill/driver Level Stud nnder Pull saw Flat bar Step ladder or work platform Air nailer Combin<Jtion square Drywall or deck screws Finish nails Glue Finish ing materi als
Materials (3) 3/, x 4 x 8 red oak plywood ( I ) I x lO x 96 red oak plywood (4) Plinth Blocks (16) I x 2 X 96 red oak plywood (4) % X 3% X 84 oak pl)‘vood I I lineal ft. red oak crown molding (4) I X 6 X 96 red oak plywood (4) Rosettes (3) 2 X 2 X 96 pine
Cutting List Part No. Desc. Size Material Part No. Desc. Size Material A 2 Upright (outerl ’!. x 11 Y, x 96” Red ook plywood H 4 Rosette %x 4 x 4” Red ook molding B 2 Upright (innerl 3/. x 11 1/1 X 94 W’ Red ook plywood 4 Plinth block %x 4 x 4” Red ook molding C 14 Shelf 3!. X 11’1, x 31 Red ook plywood J 11 Shelf cleot (woll) %xl Vl x31” Red ook D 11 Shelf nosing J/. x l V2 x3l” Red oak 1 x 2 K 22 Shelf cleot (sidel %x 1111 x 10 3// Red ook E 4 Upright bocker 3;’ x SYl X 96” Red oak 1 x 6 L 3 Crown molding 112 x 331i6” X cut to fit Red ook F 1 Fascia %X9 Y1 X96” Red ook 1 x 10 M Ceiling cleot (longl J1/zx J h x94 h 1 1 2x 2 G 4 Fluted molding %x 3%x 78 12 1 Red oak molding N Ceiling cleot (short) ]1h x 11/1 x 81/:t 2x 2
Formal Bookcase • 189
I How to Build a Formal Bookcase
LAY OUT THE PROJECT ON YOUR WALL
T hi s bookcase is des igned to be stick-bu ilt at your
installation site. T he best place to begin is by drawing
layout lines o n t he wa ll. T he most important lines
mark the locat ions of the fou f uprights, \vhich need
to be vert ical a nd para ll e l, an d for the shelf cleats that
mu st be horizo ntal a nd parallel. Sta rt by locatin g th e
ce nte rli ne fo r the bookcase installation an d markin g
it on th e base boa rd a nd on th e lVa ll. Measu re ou t 4-ft.
on eac h side of the ce nte rlin e and make mar ks for the
outside e dges of the bookcase. These lines re presen t
th e outer faces of th e left and ri g ht uprights. Us in g
a pull saw (if you have one), c ut and re move th e
Cut through the base molding at the edges of the project baseboard betwee n th e left and ri g ht ma rks. Make
area and remove it so the bookcase can fit tightly up against
your c uts as sq ua re as poss ible (pho to I ).
the wal l.
Measure and make a mark I 53k" on each side of
the centerline, dividing the project area into three equal
bays. On eac h s ide of al l three verti ca l lines, mark out
%" to establish the locations of the 3/./'- thick uprights.
IVleas uri ng up fro m th e Aoor, ma rk ho ri zo nta l shelf
cleat locations on th e wa lls a t th e back of eac h bay.
The c leats sho uld sto p at the upright loca tion s so th e
3/.t" -th ick u prigh ts ca n fit snugly in betwee n the cleat
end s. [n the drawing, there is one bo ttom s helf, se t
6'1z" off the Aoo r in al l three bays. The left a nd right
bays have shelves 24", 48", a nd 72" up from the Aoor.
T he center bay has a Single center she lf set at 36" off
the top of t he bottom shelf ledge r a nd a top shelf at
7211 (see Diag mm , page 189). Usi ng a 4 -ft. level, ma rk
ho ri zontal reference lines fo r the she lf clea ts in a ll three
Carefully mark out the plumb lines for the outside edges bays. Draw a small "X'. below each line as a reminder of
of the uprights and continue the mark up onto the ceiling. w hi c h side of th e line to fas te n the c leat. The n , usc th e
4-ft. level to exte nd the outlines for the uprights a ll the
way up from the Aoar to th e ceiling (photo 2). T hese
sets of paralle l lines sho uld be %" apart and plumb.
3 At th e ceiling, layout the locat ion for the 2 x 2
frame t hat c reates na iling s urfaces for the o ute r
upri g hts and th e 1 x 6 upri ght backe rs th a t a re
ce ntered o n the front edges of the uprights. The 2 x 2
fram e sho uld span from th e insi de faces of th e outer
up ri g hts and ex te nd J J 'Iz" ou t fro m th e wa ll (photo 3).
Tip ~
use a spacer as a gauge for marking the position of the front Make an 11 v,' wide spacer to use as a marking gauge.
edge of the 2 x 2 nailing frame that is attached to the ceiling.190 • TH E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
4 5
Attach the 2 x 2 nailing frame to the ceiling at the layout Attach all of the shelf cleats to the wall, making sure to lines, making sure to catch a ceiling joist where possible and preserve an even ‘J.” gap between cleat ends to make room for using appropriate anchors in spots where no joist is present. the inner uprights.
If yo u're insta lling undcrcabinet lights such as you may need to usc toggle bo lts or othe r wall anchorspu ck lights, locate thc cc ntc r of cach bay on th c to secu re th e frame a long th e front edge. ceiling a nd mark them for li ghts. Get a qualified e lectrician to install the wiring, fixtures, a nd svdtc hes. ATTACH THE SHELF CLEATS TO THE WALL If yo u’re doing the \fork yo urself, follow loca l bu il di ng Whi le plenty of f<:lsteners, in c luding tr im-head wood codes. Pull the “vire through the dryv.‘all or plaster a nd screv,ls or 8d n<:lils, may be de pendabl y used to connect pigta il (c u rl up ) for fixture installation later. th e I X 2 red oak she lf c lea ts to the wa lls at st ud locations, a pneumatic or cordless finish nai le r loaded INSTALL THE NAILING FRAME w it h 2” na ils is ideal for the ta sk. It e liminates th e need For case of instal lat ion , assemble th e 2 X 2 nailing to pre-d rill and counte rsink fasteners, as you wo uld frame on the ground. Usc 2 12” pne umatic finish 1 w he n driving sc rews or hand-nai ling into hard wood . A nai ls or wa ll board screws to join the 2 x 2 frame pneumatic nailer also di spe nses fasteners quickly and com ponents. Test to make sure the assembly is accurately, malzjng it much easier \v hen you’re worlzj ng sq uare. Attach the fra me to th e ceiling by screwing a lone. C ut a nd in sta ll th e c leats at the layout li nes. A up through th e members at ce iling joist locations (usc few dab s of constr uction <:Idhesive appl ied to t he wa ll an elcctronic stu d findcr to idcntify th csc). Attach th e behin d the cleats w ill add eve n more strength to th e frame to th e wa ll’s top p late at th e wa illcei lingjoint co nn ectio n . Fasten th e c leat s so th e upright ret urn s (photo 4). If the ceiling joists are parallel to the wa ll, can be insta lled around th em (photo 5).
Formal Rookcase • 191
INSTALL THE UPRIGHTS the \vall and then position a I x 6 upright backer over
Cut the outer upri ghts ( 1 I lh" wide ) to full room the upright edge. Center the backer on the upri ght
height in length. Re st the bottoms on the fl oor and edge and nail it to the 2 x 2 nailing frame. Double-
nai l the top ends to the ends of the 2 x 2 nailing c heck that the upright is perpendicular to th e wa ll by
frame (photo 6 ). Also drive Sd finish nails through the measu ring the bays CIt t he \,va ll and at the fro nt of the
uprights and in to the ends of the she lf cleats in the upright and making sure th e measurements are the
outer bays (drill pilot ho les first ). same. Then drill pilot ho les and dri ve Sd finish nai ls
Rout a roundover, bead or c hamfe r onto each edge (or pneumatic nai ls) through the backer and into t he
of th e uprig ht backer if des ired (pho to 7). Cut t he e d ge of t he upright at 12" interva ls (photo 8 ). In sta ll
inner uprights ( I I 'h" wide ) to length. They s hould be bot h inner uprights.
11// shorte r th an the outer uprights because they butt
up against the underside of th e 2 x 2 nai ling frame INSTALL THE SHELVES
on the ceiling. Position the inner uprights between The she lves a nd she lf cleats help s tabil ize th e
the ends of the s he lf cleats that are attached to th e st ructure, so install them next . Start by na iling a
wu ll in eClch bay. At the cei ling, lise a fmm in g sq uare s helf to the 2 x 2 cei ling frame a t the top of each
to make s ure the inner uprights arc perpendicular to bay (p hoto 9 ).
6
Nail the outer uprights to the ends of the nailing frame Routing a bead, round over, or chamfer adds nice detail and
attached to the ceiling. shadow lines to the upright backers.
9
Attach the upright backers to the front edges of the inner Attach a shelf board at the top of each bay to conceal the
uprights with pneumatic or hand-driven finish nails. framework attached to the ceiling.192 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVE S & BUlLT-l NS
10
Attach the shelf cleats to the uprights, being careful to drive Edge the red oak shelves with 1 x 2 red oak nosing that’s fasteners straight to prevent blow-outs in the upright returns. bonded to the shelves with glue and finish nails.
12
Conceal the gap between the top of the bookcase and Attach the plinth blocks, rosettes and fluted case moldings ceiling with crown molding or sprung cove molding. Installing to compete the trimwork installation. crown molding can get complicated- consult a trim carpentry book if you are unsure how to work with crown molding.
A ttac h th e s hort she lf c lea ts to t he s ides of th e with th e ou te r faces of the outer upri gh ts. Make sureuprights so each shelf is supported on three sides the fasci <:t board is level before attac hing it with nai ls (photo 10 ). Use a leve l to make sure t he cleats a re drive n into the tops of the upright backers. O nce the level and a ttach th e m \vi th 4d fini sh na ils o r 1%,1 brads fasc ia board is in place, c ut , fit a nd attach th e crown and adh esive. moldin g a nd m old ing retu rn at th e top (photo 12). C ut th e re ma ining she lves to le ngt h and se t th em Insta ll th e plinth bloc ks at th e bottom of eac h on t he cleats . C ut the I X 2 shel f nosing and a ttac h it u pright backe r, resting on th e Aoo r a nd ce nte re d sid e to the front edges of th e exposed s hel ves, making su re to side. The n, a ttach the rosettes a t the top of eac h the s he lves are flu sh with th e top edge of t he nos ing up rig ht backer, ce nte red si de to si de. Meas ure fro m (photo II ). Use 4d fini sh na il s dri ven through p il ot the bottom of t he rosette to the top of th e plinth holes or pn eumatic Ilnish na ils to Cl ttac h th e nosing. bloc k and cut fluted Gise molding to fit. Insta ll with ad hesive and na ils (p hoto 13). Fill nail ho les, san d ATTACH THE TRIM an d appl y fini sh . If th e insta ll atio n room has base s hoe C ut th e I x 10 red oak fascia board the full width of moldin gs, yo u may wan t: to add th em to you r bookcase th e bookcase an d na il it to t he top so t he e nds are Aush for a cons istent look.
Formal Rookcase • 193I Utility Shelves a total wi dth of 68 11 • Yo u can e nlarge th e projec t Y OU ca n bui ld adjustable u tility shelves in a si ngl e afte rnoon using 2 x 45 and plai n 3/4 1\ plywood. Perfec t for lise in a ga rage Of basement, utility shelves eaS il y by addin g more 2 X 4 ri se rs and pl ywood she lves. Do not increase the indi vidua l s helf wid ths ca n be modiA ed by addin g s ide panels an d a face to more t han 36”. The so le pla tes fo r the utility fram e to crea te a fini shed look suitable for a fami ly she lves are installed perpe ndic ular to the wa ll to roo m or recreation area . improve access to the space under th e bottom T he q ui ck-and-easy s he lf project s hown on th e she lves . following pages creates two colu mn s of s he lves wit h
194 • TH E COMP LETE GU IDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
D
D I
I
1
D I
I
~ L&l
~ L&l
~
~ ~ ~ (Tools Materials Cutting List Pencil ( 15) 2 x4x8 pine Part No. Desc. Size Material T<:Ipe measure (2) 3/, X 4 x 8 plywood A Top plotes 68” 2 x 4s Level \t\1ood glue Framing square Sh ims B 3 Sole plotes 24” 2 x 4s Drill/dri ver Drywall or deck sc rews (21//, 3”) C 8 Shelf risers 93” 2 x 4s Plumb bob Fi ni shi ng ma terials D 4 End risers 93” 2 x 4s Powder-actuated nai ler E 12 Shelves 30Y. x 24” ‘I.” plywood C lamps Router \vith 3// straight bit C irc ular sa,,, Step lad der
Utility She/pes • 195
I How to Build utility Shelves
2
Mark the location of top plates Mark pOints directly beneath outside Cut outer 2 x 4 sole plates and position
on ceiling. One plate should be flush corners of the top plates to find outer them perpendicular to the wall, just
against wall, and the other should be sole plate locations, using a plumb inside the outlines. Shim plates to level
parallel to first plate, with the front edge bob as a guide (topl. Mark sole plate if needed, then attach to floor with a
24" from the wall. Cut 2 x 4 top plates to locations by drawing lines perpendicular powder-actuated nailer or 3" screws.
full length of utility shelves, then attach to the wall connecting each pair of Attach a center sole plate midway
to ceiling joists or blocking, using 3" points (bottom). between the outer sole plates.
screws.
Prepare the shelf risers by cutting ,,"-wide, ~"'-deep dadoes with a router. Cut Trim the shelf risers to uniform length
dadoes every 4" along the inside face of each 2 x 4 riser, with the top and bottom before unclamping them. Use a circular
dadoes cut about 12" from the ends of the 2 x 4. Tip: Gang-cut the risers by laying saw and a straightedge guide.
them flat and clamping them together, then attaching an edge guide (page 41) to align
the dado cuts. For each cut, make several passes with the router, gradually extending
the bit depth until dadoes are ~..' deep.196 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Build two center shelf supports by Build four end shelf supports by Position an end shelf support positioning pairs of shelf risers back~ to~ positioning the back of a dadoed shelf at each corner of the shelving unit, back and joining them with wood glue riser against a 2 x 4 of the same length, between top and sole plates. Attach the and 2’/2” screws. then Joining the 2 x 4 and the riser with supports by driving 3” screws toena il~ glue and 2’.” screws. style into the top plate and sole plates.
9 10
Position a center shelf support (both faces dadoed) at Measure the distance between the fac ing dado grooves each end of the center sole plate, then anchor shelf supports and subtract ’/”. Cut the plywood shelves to fit and slide the to the sole plate using 3” screws driven toenail~style. Use a shelves into the grooves. fram ing square to align the center shelf supports perpendicular to the top plates, then anchor to top plates.
Uti lit), She/Jles • 197I Cube Shelves T his shelving project w ill yie ld some lovely and distinctive display she lves, but building them is as m uc h a slzj ll -building advent ure for learni ng in the assembly instru c ti ons a re a few tip s for making square corners so you r handcrafted box is perfec tl y mac hin e d. new tech ni ques as it is a carpentry projec t. If The asse mbl y a nd co n nection deta ils he re are yo u’re c homping a t t he bit to give you r nC\A,I s liding intended for small she lves an d di sp lay in g light ite ms, compound mi ter saw a wo rkollt, th is project "" ill be but fi nal des ign is up to you. The she lf un it shown vcry sati sfying for you . Yet th ese cu be-s haped s hel ves he re is a 12” sq ua re made from c herry. You can use arc qui te a ttract ive and functiona l in their own rig ht, ot he r spec ies for diffe rent loo ks, or yo u can eve n mix co nstructed as they are wit h a combi natio n of basic and match species, paint some and leave others clea r, boa rds, sim ple hardware, and imagination. or stain t hem to bring out the gra in in the wood. Using YO LI can make the cube-s haped disp lay shelves a brad na iler an d glue, or fi n is h screv,ls and gl ue, will fro m solid saw n \food or sheet goods, depending on provide so lid mec hanica l co nn ections fo r th e corners. the look you’ re after, w hat yo u’d like to di sp lay, and Trying to hand -na il this projec t is like ly to resu lt in yo u r deco r. Yo u can make them d ifferent sizes, frustrat ion. O th e r a ttac h me nt choices t hat work sq ua res or rec ta ngles, dee p or sha ll ow. You can eve n we ll for thi s project include a spline joint or using a take one of t hose squares and flip it on point to make plate joiner an d biscuits . These ten d to be more in a diamond. Ve rsa tility and fun is the na me of t he th e dom a in of th e advance d woodwo rke r due to the game here, along w ith careful assem bl y. In c luded precision and tools required, however.
198 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
B
A
BACK SIDE
,,Tools Materials Cutting List Cordl ess drill/dri ve r Scrap wood for jig Part No. Desc. Size Material C irc ular savv I x 8 ha rdwood (5 ft., o r so) A 4 (ubeside ‘I. x IY, x 12” Hardwood Stn:ti ghtedge Keyhole pi cture hangers Sand er Fas teners ‘h”·wide wood chise l Ta bl e saw
ClIhe She/pes • 199
I How to Build Cube Shelves
MAKE A FOOLPROOF ASSEMBLY JIG
For mak ing square joints, do yourse lf a favor and
build a very si m ple asse mbl y jig. The one s hown
here is easy to rnake frorn scra p stoc k. Al l you need
to do is fctsten fo ur pieces of gil- long sc rap stoc k
(poplar is good because it's ve ry strai ght and easy to
\<\Iark w ith ) to a Aat pi ece of scrap plyv.rood o r M DF
to form two L's th at meet at a ri ght angle. Before
cu ttin g yo ur wo rkp icccs, make su re your miter saw is
set up fo r a perfect perp endi cu lar cut. T hen , cut the
four pieces and lay two of th em nat on th e plywood
(about a 12" square will work ) so th ey butt together
and form a 90° joi nt. Fas te n the two boa rds to the
plywood , tak ing ca re to m<Ji nta in an exact 90 ° jo in t.
Pre-drill th e board s so th ey don't move \.vh il e yo u
sc rew th em down . AFter the flat pi eces are insta ll ed,
in stall th e ve rti ca l pi eces in a similar fash ion,
fas tening th em to th e edges of the first workpieces
(photo I ). Coat th e outer faces of th e j ig w ith wax
Build this simple jig to assist you in making perfectly square or va rni sh to preven t glued wo rkpieces from st icking
miter jOints. to it.
If You're Using a Power Miter Saw ... ~
The easiest way to rnake
the miter cuts in stock that's
wider than 3" or 4" is to use
a large capacity power miter
saw or a radial arm saw. If
you have a large capacity
power miter saw, such as a
10" compound sliding miter
saw, you need to make sure
your miter saw is tuned
to cut precise 45 miters.
0
You'll also need a stop for
your miter saw so you don't
have to measure each piece
individually. Because it's vital
that each of the workpieces
be exactly the sarne (even the
smallest difference in the cuts
will show up in the miters)' Accuracy is important in this project-especially for the tools. Double check your
the stop is key for making saw's setting before you begin cutting and adjust as necessary If you're using a 10"
accurate cuts. saw, you'll be cutting on the bevel, so be sure to check this adjustment.200 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS
CUT THE SHELF PARTS o ne e nd (the en ds of th e boa rd s sho ul d be Aush). Set You can use a sl iding miter saw or rad ia l ar m S3>V to your c irc ular $3’V to C lit a 45 ° bevel. T hen, clamp a make the bevel cuts t hat form t he miters (see “If You’re strai ghtedge gu ide in place so th e di stance from th e Using a Powe r Miter Saw, .. ”, page 200). But jf yo u u ncl amped ends is slig htl y mo re t ha n the offset of the don’r ow n a saw ,vith e no ugh c<:Ipac ity to make a 45° saw foot. Cut a ll four boa rds at once (photo 2). bevel c ut in a 7 Ih”-wide bomd, YO LI ca n lise an ordinary 11elocate the clamp nea r th e bevel-cut e nds, c ircular smv. F irst, ca refully c ut th e vw rkpieces so reposition the straightedge gUide an d bevel-c ut the they’re a co upl e of inc hes lo nger than the fi nished other ends. Re -orient the workpi ece so th e miters will length ( 12” is the finis he d length we usc he re ). Then, be fac ing in the correct directions. iV1ake Slire the bevels clamp the four boards toget he r edge- to-edge usi ng both slope inwa rd , and ma ke th e seco nd cut so the a bar c lamp or pi pe clam p. Leave plenty of room at outside face of each wor kpiece is 12” long (photo 3).
Clamp a straightedge guide to the
ganged work pieces and make a 45 bevel
0
cut near one end.
Re-orient the workpieces so th e bevels
wi ll not be parallel and gang them together
again. Bevel-cut the other ends.
ClIiJe She/Jles • 201
ASSEMBLE THE SHELF v,lit h keyhole-style pic ture frame hangers that fit in to
Set two of the bevel-c ut workpi cccs up in the recessed c uts in t he back edges of the box. To hang
assemb ly jig. Dry- fit th e co rn e r to see th at it fits and th e box with thi s ha rdware , posi ti on th e box o n th e
11
the joint is tight. If it's no t, something is off a nd an worksu rface with th e bac k edges up. The n , drill a 1/4 -
adjustment is re quired. deep by '/I6"-dia. ho le t hat's 3" from eac h e nd a long the
A pply gl ue to both ends a nd re-c rea te the jo in t. e dge you want to be on top. Chisel out a '/sll-deep, 112"-
Reinforce v,lith fi nish nails driven w it h a pneum atic \,v ide x %"- Iong rn o rt ise t hat's ce nte re d ove r eac h hole
brad na ile r (photo 4). Faste n the othe r two wo rkpi eces and stop s just shy of t he edges of the board (photo 6).
in th e same fas hion, a nd th e n attac h th e two L-s hapes P lace the hanger in th e slot over the p re-drilled
to fo rm th e fi nis he d squa re (photo 5). Ma ke sure you hole an d rn ark t he sc rew holes \v it h a penc il. Pre-
wipe away a ll glue sq ueeze-o ut wit h a da mp clot h o r dril l th e hanger ho les a nd install the hangers, using a
sponge a nd al low it to dry. screwd ri ve r to prevent ove rdriving (photo 7).
INSTALL HANGING HARDWARE FINISH & HANG THE SHELF
T he cu be-s hape boxes look most im press ive if they are App ly yo ur finis h of c hoice a nd a ll O\>I/ it to d ry. Treati ng
mou nted on the wa ll with no visible mea ns of support. all faces of th e she lf \v ill help p reve nt environ rn ental
A good me thod for accompl ishing th is is to ha ng t hem forces (like hurnidity a nd tern pe rat ure chunge) frorn
After testing the fit. glue the first miter JOint together and
reinforce it with an air nailer (if you must hand-nail. carefully
drill pilots holes first). Use the assembly jig to square up the
workpieces.
using the jig. assemble both LS with glue and fasteners. cut a mortise for the body of the hanger hardware to rest
in. Be sure not to cut through to the edge of the shelf so the
connection will be invisible once the box is mounted.202 • TH E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUlLT-l NS
opening the joi nts. Set the cube she lf leve l on the wa ll and mark the locat ions fo r the sc reV,is that will Ilt into th e keyho le picture ha ngers. Drill guide holes fo r plasti c .va ll anc hors at th e hanger locations an d drive round -head wood sc rews so they leave a gap of about ‘/8” between the screw head and th e wal l. Slip the box over the sc rev” heads and tug dovmwmd to sec ure it (photo 8).
Stepback box variation ~
Making cube-shaped shelves can take you further
than single layer display shelves, enabling you to add
layers and depth to your display boxes and the items
in them. In other words, some photos look great in a
plain frame while others call out for more detail. The
good news is that adding detail to the shelf doesn't
requ ire a major re-tool ing of your set-up. You can
still use all kinds of materials, including MDF (shown
here), though sizing down to smaller stock for smaller
shelves looks more proportional. And, because this
Pre-drill the hanger holes and install the hanger hardware
version is layered, you can mix and match species to using a screwdriver or a drill/driver and a light touch.
create an eye-catching color contrast.
Since there are 16 pieces in this system (not four)
as in the project box- the easiest and fastest way
to make accurate cuts is to cut and shape the stock
for both the inner cube and outer cube, and then
laminate them together with glue so the front edges
are oriented correctly and the back edges are flush.
Then, simply cut the workpieces, bevel the ends and
assemble the cube as shown in the main sequence.
This 16-piece variation of the cube shelf has
the added feature of shadow lines created by the Drive roundhead screws into the wall, using sleeves or
stepped back sides. anchors as needed. Then hang the keyhole hanger hardware
mounted to the back of the shelf onto the screwheads.
Cube She/Jles • 203I Closet Shelves T hi s si mpl e p roj ect wi llmo re than double the sto rage potential in a s m a ll linen or pantry c loset. It is pe rfect for light loads in closets \vith a span of Tools & Materials ~ 36” or less. The I x 3 furring strips are inexpensive Stud fi nde r 3/4 “-thick shelving
and easy to insta ll , and th e s he lving seen from th e Tape meas ure stoc k (w itho ut
outs ide o f t he door lend s a profess iona l tOll c h. If yo u Leve l predrilled ho les)
don't have a lot of time, but wo uld li ke to try you r Screwdriver X 3 pine
hand a t a n insta ll ation to max imi ze )'our sto raoe Jig saw \;Vood sc rews
0'
sta rt here. Nail gun L-brackcts (optional )
6d and 8 d finish nai ls Finish materia ls204 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
I How to Install Closet Shelves Measure fro m the floor lip J 5” and mark a level line. Repea t level l ines every 12” Lip fro m ori ginal line (repea t fo u r t imes for an 80 ”- tall c lose t) (ph oto I ) . C u t I x 3 stri ps to fit along the bac k side of the wall , flu sh into eac h corner. C ut I x 3 strips to Ilt a lo ng \va lls, flu sh aga inst th e bac k wa ll 1 x 3 strips and 4” short of th e inside wa l l (a pproximately 6 ” in f rom close t door t rack) . Al ign the tops of I x 3 strips wit h level lines o n ,va ll and Faste n to th e ,va ll , hitt in g stud s where po ssi bl e (p hoto 2). Note: If you cannot hit a stud, use a self-driving 1uetal ancho r with machine screws every 10”, Cut melam ine shelving stoc k (wit hout pre- dril led holes) to fit along th e back side wa l l (meas ure wa l l and su btrac t 4”). Rest shelves on top of th e I x 3 st ri ps (p hoto 3) . Measure from the floor up 15” and mark a level line. Repeat level lines every 12” up from original line (repeat four times for an 80”-tall closet).
2 3
Fasten 1 x 3 strips to back side wall, flush into each Cut melamine-coated shelving stock (without predrilled corner, and fasten 1 x 3 strips along the side wall (as shown, holes) to fit along back side wall (measure wall and ending approximately 6” in from door track). Align the tops of subtract 4”). Rest shelves on top of 1 x 3 strips. the 1 x 3 strips with level lines on wall and fasten to wall with a nail gun at studs. Note: If you cannot hit a stud, use a sel f- driving metal anchor with machine screw every 10”.
Closet She/Jles • 205I Joist Shelving If yo u think you have comp lete ly run out of storage space , but st ill have an unfini s hed ce ilin g so mewhere in the house or garage, think agai n. Thi s YO LI don’t li se eve ry day. If yo u pl an on storin g liqu ids on the she lf, make su re t he lids are closed t igh tl y before fo lding li p t he she lf. The des ign of the shelf handy little she lf is built to At and fold lip directl y is easy to c ha nge to m<Jke it statio nary or d ee per. be tween u nfi nis he d joists, stor ing utility it e m s until ;Vith a mi nimu m of effort and materi als, YO LI can yo u need them . It is a good place fo r too ls, laundry bu ild a si mpl e sto rage so luti o n for utility ite ms. room supplies, smal ler sportin g goods, or oth er items
Turn joist cavities into
efficient storage cabinets
with these inexpensive,
easy,to,build folding shelves.206 • TH E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT,l NS
E
A
-- 1 Joist
lineTools Materials Cutting List Drill with bits (1 ) I x 6” x 10 ft. pine ‘hll spade bit (J) I x 4” x 6 ft. pine Key Part Dimension C irc ular saw ( I) ‘I,”~ X 4 X 4 ft. pine plywood A (21 Side ‘/4x SVl X 30W pine Hatchet set (2) ‘h”-d ia. X 3” carriage bolts B (I) Top 0/4 X SVl X 14*” pine Combination square (2) ’/,” lock was he rs C (I) Bottom 0/4x 51/2X 14*” pine C-cla mps (4) ’/,” nat was hers D (I) Middle shelf %x SVl X 121/1*“pine Level (2) ’/,” hex nuts T<Jpe measure ( I) 3/. “-thick plywood scrap E (I) Botk ’/’ x 14’ x 32” pine plywood Wood screws (#6 X 1’/,” ) F (21 Shelf roil %x 2V2 X 12111*” pine \t\1ood glue ‘C ut to fit (2) I/~ x 2” lag sc re’vs
Joist SlwiFillg • 207
I How to Make Joist Shelving
Before YOLI begin clitting th e pieces for the frame of
the joist she lvin g, measu re th e space be twee n th e
joists w he re YOLI plan to insta ll the unit. Standard
construc tion shou ld leave a 14 11z1! space between
ceiling joists . Ho\VCVCf, depen ding on how old th e
wood is and hmv you r house has settled, th e space
between yo ur jo ists co uld be anyvvhere fro m 12!1 to
16" . Make SlIre YO LI know th ose dim e nsions so YO LI can
plan the rest o f the box cons tru ction acco rd ingly.
Us ing a co mbination square as a guide, mark a
MAKE THE BOX refere nce line ac ross th e interior face of each side
Measu re a nd eut th e sides (A), top (B), bottom panel, 15 '1)' up from th e top of the bottom panel.
(C ), and m iddle shelf ( D) of t he box frame to size T hese lines represent th e botto m of the shelf.
from J x 6 pin e lumber an d san d the edges smoo th. S lide the middl e she lf into pos ition so the
Position the sides, top, and botto m panels w ith their bottom edge is Rush with the reference lines. Drill
back edges on the wo rk surFace, \.vith the perimeter of coun terbored pilot holes through th e sides and into
the box Ru sh at the outer edges. the shelf. A ttac h th e shelf using gl ue and Sc re\vs.
Dril l eou nterbo red pilot ho les th rough th e bottom Cut the shelf ra ils (F) to th e proper le ngth a nd
and top pane ls into the si de panels and assem ble the sa nd th e edges smooth . rVl ark reference lines for the
frame, usi ng glue and wood screws driven through th e shelf ra ils 6" up from t he top of the botto m panel and
ends and in to th e sides (p hoto I ). 6" up from t he top of the m iddle shelf.
Assemble the frame of the box, using Clamp the shelf in place between the Insert a carriage bolt through the
glue and 1'k " wood screws. joists and drill holes for the carriage shelf walls and joists, then add a
bolts. washer, lock wash er, and hex nut.208 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BUlLT-l N S
Atta c h th e rails so th e ir top edges are Aush with INSTALL THE SWINGING ASSEMBLYth e refe re nce lines an d the front surface of th e ra il Slide the ca rri age bolts through t he hol es fro m t he is flu sh w ith the sides. Drill co unterbored p ilot holes interior of th e shelf, and thread a fl at washe r, lock throu gh the rails and into the sides and attach th e m, \lasher, and nut onto the carri age bo lt unti l they are using glue and wood sc rews . Cu t th e bac k panel (E) to snu g, using a ratchet set if necessa ry (photo 3). Do not size and attach it to th e back edges of th e box frame , overtigh ten the assembly or the shelf ,vill not rotate. using glue and \lood sc rews. Test th e shelf by rotating it up into the cei ling, making su re it glides easil y between th e joists. vVith DRILL HOLES THROUGH THE JOISTS a penci l, make a reference mark on both joists, Hcfe r to th e top in se t of the diagram on page 207 for approxi mately 2” in from the bottom edge of the shelf spec ifi c instructions on th e location of the swinging in th e up position . assembly holes . Clam p th e unit into position betw·een the INSTALL THE CLEATS jo ists so it is leve l and so th e to p o f t he shelf is C ut the sc rClp piece of 1/.,,” plyvvood into tv.‘O pieces approximately 3” from th e subAoor above. Wh en t he approxi mately 1/.” x I lh X 4”. Use two 1/.” X 2” lag sc rews shelf is in pos ition and c lamped ti ghtl y, drill a Ih ” ho le to attach the sc ra p pieces of pl yv.100d to th e bott om o n ei th e r side of th e shelf, through th e joists an d in to edges of th e joists so th at the edges are Aus h with the th e shelf (photo 2 ). inside edges of the joists (photo 4) . T he scra p pieces shou ld be tight but still easy to rotate. Hotate cleats to hold t he shelf in its closed position.
Variation ~
If you want a deeper shelf (photo 5), use the same
construction method, but alter the dimensions. Install this The shelf must be clamped tightly in place; otherwise,
larger box by driving four lag screws through the jOists. it may fall during installation. Do not place weight on
The shelf will be stationary, but it will still utilize space near the shelf until it is completely installed, or you could
the ceiling. See the bottom inset diagram on page 207. risk injury.Screw plywood cleats into position to act as latches for TO build a deeper, stationary shelf, build the unit with wider the shelf. lumber, and drive two ‘k x 2” lag bolts through each side of the shelf and into the adjoining Joists.
Joist SlleiFillg • 209I Bin & Shelving Unit T his versatile wa ll accessory offers clever storage space for ro lled hand towels, soaps, and other sma ll items. The uni t can be custom-des igned to fi t th e with less wall space, a shorter unit may be buil t by making on ly two V-sec tions . Or, add more V-sec tio ns for a large r wa ll space. For eve n mo re ve rsa ti lity, the ava ilable wa ll space and depth for any roo m. In areas V-sections may be mounted in stair-s tep fas hion.
store smaller items in the bins of this shelving unit, reducing clutter on your countertop or vanity.210 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
D
,
i ,
• e D
e-Tools Materials Cutting List Mi te r saw J x 6” x 4 ft. pine Key Part Dimension Jig saw J x 8” x 4 ft. pine A (I) Shelf panel 3/~ x SV1 x 8W’ lumber C lamps 3/8 ”~ di a. dO.vei Drill with bits Cotton s\vabs B (5) Shelf panel V. x SV1 X 7W’ lumber 118 adju stable counterbore bit Wallboa rd sc rews (/18 x I ‘Is”) C (I) Bocker board ¥. x IV<’ x 3 ft. lumber Hamme r Wood glue D II 5) Dowel pieces %“-dio x Ill” dowel Sma ll hand saw Finis hing materia ls Stud ~nder Sandpaper
Bill & Slle illiJ1g U J1il • 211
I How to Make a Bin & Shelving Unit
CUT SHElF PANELS PREPARE THE BACKER BOARD
& ASSEMBLE A V-SECTION Lay the completed shelf assembl y on the backer
Cut the longer s helf panel (A ) and all five additiona l board, so that the top point of each V-sect ion is Aush
she lf panels (8 ) to size using a miter saw. Sand a ny wit h t he backer board's top e dge.
rough e dges smooth using ISO-grit sa ndpape r. Trace t he outline of th e V-sectio ns on th e bclCke r
Position the panels o n the table as they w ill be board and cut a lo ng th e lmver cutti ng li nes using a j ig
assemb le d , checkin g the fit and layout of each panel. saw (photo 3).
Make sure the longe r she lf panel (A) is fa rth est to th e Draw lines on the Front of t he bac ker board
right of the assembly. showing th e locations of the wa llboa rd sc rews in th e
C lamp the longer shelf pane l (A) to o ne of the V-sect ion asse mbl y.
regular shelf panels (8 ) at a right a ngl e so that the Mark the position for three sc rews along each
edges are Aush against the works urfaee (photo I ). side of the V-sections, avo iding the lines made for
Adj ust a #8 counterbo re bit to a tota l depth of 2". the wallboard screws inside the V-sectio ns. Then
Dri ll th ree eq ually spaced counterbo red pilot hol es drill ho les t hrough the backer board at the p laceme nt
through the longer shelf, 3/.," from the 100,v er edge. Each marks, using I/~ !I drill bit.
ho le should have a 1// cOllnterbo re. Drive 1%" wa llboa rd
screws into eac h hole of the cla mped assembly. INSTALL THE BACKER BOARD
P lace unit o n the table, wit h the front e dge facing
ATTACH THE REMAINING SHELF PANELS dO\vn. Turn the backer board over, a nd pos itio n it on
Attac h each remaini ng shelf panel at a right <1ngle, top of the wor kpi ece, aligni ng t he edges.
repeating the constru ctio n meth ods described in th e Keeping th e unit a ligned w ith t he backer board,
first step. Cla mp eac h new shelf to the work piece so drill a pi lot hol e in the placeme nt mark closest to the
that the ne w shelf is flush agains t the wo rksurfacc, ce nter of the middl e V-sectio n w ith the adjusta bl e
with the side edges of eac h new panel Rush \,vith the eoun te rbore bit. On ly dri ll deep enough with the bit to
side edges of the workpiece (p hoto 2 ). create a counters ink for th e head of the screw.
2
Clamp shelf A to shelf B and drill three equally spaced Clamp each new shelf to the workpiece so that the new
counterbored pilot holes through shelf A into shelf B. shelf is flush against the worksurface.212 • T HE COMP LETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BUlLT-l NS
Drive a vva ll board sc rew into t he co un te rsunk Sand t he plugs Ru sh with t he su rfClce, usi ngpilot hole (pho to 4 ) and recheck t he al ign ment of th e SO-grit sa ndpape r on a sandi ng bloc k. Sand t he en ti re two pieces. unit un til smooth, using fi ne-grit sandpaper. Dril l and cou nte rsink t he remai ning pi lot holes Paint th e uni t or app ly t he stain of you r cho ice and drive wal lboa rd sc rews t h rough th e ho les into and a c lear acrylic finis h . Let th e finis h d ry according the V-sec ti ons, startjng \vith t he ends of t he u nit and to the manufactu rer’s instructions. worki ng your way back to\vard the cen ter. To mount t he s helving unit, locate studs in the wall to use as mounting points. If no studs are avai lab le, APPLY THE FINISHING TOUCHES mClke su re to use t he prope r type of \vall fastener. Cut a 3/8” dowel in to Ill” lengths to usc as wood plugs for t he eounterbored holes. Bevel onc end of cae h p lug by sa nding or fi l ing it sl ightly. Variation ~ Place a smal l amount of wood glue in t he counterbored holes using a cotto n swab. Insert a wood Using the same assembly steps, make a diagonal plug into eac h hole, beve led e nd first, a nd tap it in shelving unit as shown on page 210. Increase the place w it h a hammer o r a ru bber m allet (p hoto 5). “step up” effect by cutting the shelf panels to ‘v\fipe away any excess gl ue usi ng a da mp ened cloth. graduated lengths. Cut the lowest shelf at 8’1,’ long, Allow the glue to dry ove rn ight. the second shelf at 7’k” long, the next two at 6’k”, and Sand thc ou ter edgcs of t he backer board and edges the last two at 5’k” long. Then hang the shelf on the of the shelves . Cut off thc excess of the plugs af ter t he wall diagonally The graduated shelves allow you to glue has d ried us ing a smal l hand saw. T he p lugs should place heavier, larger objects on the lower shelves and onl y extend sl ightly from the surface. Take care not to lighter more decorative pieces above. sc ratch the wood surface vvhe n trimm ing t he plugs.
•Mark lines on the backer board front Position the back er board over the Tap the wood plugs into the indicating where the V-sections are workpiece, aligning the edges, and drive counterbored holes. Allow the glue to screwed together. Then mark reference screws through countersunk pilot holes dry, and trim the wood plugs using a lines for three screws along each starting with the hole closest to the small hand saw. section. center.
Rill & SIIe/viJ1g Uuil • 213I Trimwork Wall Shelves H ere’s a nea t trick: Build a she lf that sto res, displays and elevates your favo rite collectibles and kni ck knacks so they’re ,ve ll w ithin sight but safely out of If you’ re building the crovm molding version of this project, o ne skill you may wish to brush up on ahead of t ime is cutting cmd cop ing crovm molding. the way. Building these built-up projects is a fun mix Working with crown molding requires some mental of rough and finish ca rpe nt ry. \t\1e shO,v you hO”1to gym nastics, but once YO LI learn the fl oor rO lltin e you ‘ll make (‘vo varia ti ons here: one is a mass of step ped- be glad yo u did . back M DF strips that has rcal presence w hen painted. You can hang your new s helves at just about any The other is a more refi ned three-part assembly sim ilar he ight, alt hou gh they natura ll y loo k more comfortable to cornice mol ding that is made with pine and pine hi gher up o n th e wa ll. At least try and position them at mol di ngs an d boasts a c lea r wood fi nish. The feature or s lightly above eye leve l. Locating the shelves so the both shelves share is a bro<:ld, Aat surf<:lce that bottom edge rests on top of a door head casing is one performs as a handy display shelf. good strategy.
214 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
In this proj ect we detai l two basic interpre tati ons And by c hoos ing trim types and styles th at alreadyof th e she lving strategy. Both are essent iall y bu ilt-up are prese nt in yo ur home yo u ca n e nh ance th e built- box beams, al though o ne uses c row n mold ing as th e in look. featured trim whil e th e other is base d on ste pped -bac k The two styles of trim work she lves seen here strips of stock. The re a re a lso diffe re nt va ri at ions on a re cons tructed with s imple butt joi nts for ease of how t he shel f ca n be installed. For exa mple, you can building. If you have t he woodwo rki ng eq uipm e nt and wrap t he e ntire room with it, si mpl y spa n from one skill s, cons ide r using dado joints instead of butt joints wa ll to a noth e r, or place it on three wa ll s on ly, e tc . w here it ma kes se nse. \t\lith dad o joints, t he wood Not on ly is thi s built-in tota ll y home-m ade, but t he parts ca n expand and co ntract (as th ey a re pro ne to ) design is Aex ible to suit d iffe re nt needs and tastes . withou t: c reat ing se pa rati o n gaps.
Trimwork H01l She/Jles • 215
Crown Molding Shelf
A
E
B
Stepped Version Shelf
Tools Materials
Table saw Drill/d river and bits Drywall or deck screws
Mi ter smv Tape iV1easure Finish nails
Level or laser level Square Finishing materials
Cutting List: Crown version Cutting List: Stepped Version
Part Desc. No. Size Material Part Desc. No. Size Material
A Shelf top %x 7" x length Pine or oak A Shelf top %x 6111 x length MDF
B Shelf bottom %x 2%" x length Pine or oak B Shelf bottom %x 3111 x length MDF
C Shelf front %x 4W' x length Pine or oak C Shelf front l %x 4111 x length MDF
D (rown I' %x 41/." x length Crown molding D Shelf front M %x 3 x length MDF
E ledger ] 1/2 x 3W' x length 2x 4 E Shelf front S %x ] 1/1 x length MDF
F Filler (opt.) lor2 %x 2%x 3W Pine or ook F ledger ] Vl x 3Vl x length 2 x 4
• Make m itered return if end of s helf is open G Filler (opt.) lor2 0/4 x 31/1 X 3Vl MDF216 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUILT- tNS
How to Build Trimwork Wall Shelves
MARK LAYOUT LINES AND INSTALL LEDGER layo ut and Jill t he gap that’ll be crea ted over th e oth er While yo u can use a spi rit level to create level lin es at w indO,v5 .vith caulk. the spec iAed height across the wa ll , use a laser level Select a straigh t 2 X 4 and ClIt it to le ngth. Use instead if you have access to one (photo I ). There are an electronic stud find e r to locate wa ll studs in th e many types of lase r levels on th e market a nd eac h is insta llation area, a nd mark the wa ll stud s just below operated different ly from th e others, but all w ill do the leve l line. C hoose high quality, 41!-long screws for a nn e job of acc u rately projec tin g a line arollnd th e attaching th e ledge r: e ithe r use te mpered hex-head room quick ly so you can mark it on th e \va ll. Some, dec k sc rews or square drive multipurpose ca binet suc h as a rotating lase r leve l, al lo w yo u to use the li ght screws . Apply panel adhesive to th e back of t he ledger beam cast by th e lase r level as the refe ren ce, so yo u and position it so th e bottom edge fall s just above th e don’t need to ma ke marks on the wa ll s. level line and th e e nds are in th e cor rect spot. Dri ve If yo u plan to install yo ur shelving Aus h w ith the a pai r of sc rews through t he ledger and into th e wal l top s of yo ur doo r or vvindO\v casing and you find th at studs at eac h stu d location (p hoto 2). These screws th ey are not leve l but a re close to level (say, ,vithin 1/4”), don ‘t nor mall y req uire a pilot hole. use th e highest opening as th e contro l poi nt for yo ur
How to Build a Crown Molding Shelf Use a laser level to create a level 1 ___r- reference line for the shelf ledger installation. Mark the location of the bottom edge of the ledger, making sure to allow room for the bottom panel above the door trim and for the full height of the finished project.
Attach the ledger to the wall studs with2 4” cabinet screws and panel adhesive. Double-check to make sure the ledger is level after you drive the first screw.
Trimwork H01l She/Jles • 217
Attach the bottom strip to the ledger
•
3 board with panel adhesive and wood
screws driven into counterbored pil ot
holes.
Attach the shelf to the top of the ledger,
making sure the ends are flush with the
ends of the bottom strip.
BUILD A CROWN-MOLDING SHELF before in stallin g the part s. O n th e bo tto m strip, drill
We des ig ne d thi s crown -moldin g based shelf to be a co untcrborcd p il ot hol e every I t', located in a line
proportiona l to the same size and sha pe mo lding that 3// in from th e back edge of th e strip . Attac h th e
already existed at the ceiling in our insta ll ation room bottom strip to the ledge r wit h pane l adhesive and 2 3//'
(% " x 4 1/4" crown ), Jn stall molding pieces from the Rat head wood sc rews (photo 3).
bo ttom a nd wo rk yo ur \"/a)' lip. If yo u're w rapp ing a Next, rip a nd c ro ssc ut th e top pane l to w idth
roo m , do "laps" w ith eac h layer of trim. Rip oak stock and le ngt h and th e n attClc h it to the top of the ledge r
for th e bottom pane l to w idth (2W' as seen here ) a nd w ith pa nel ad hesive a nd 6 d fi n ish nails (photo 4 ).
cu t it to le ngth. Finis h sand all oak parts to 150 g rit Th e en d s s hou ld be Ru s h w ith th e bottom strip ends ,218 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS
Attach wood spacers to the front face5 of th e ledger to align the front panel when it is pressed against the spacers.
Attach the front panel by nailing it to
the bottom strip first, and then driving
finish nails through the top panel.
oand t he top pu ne l s ho uld be butted c lean ly agai nst Rip a nd crossc ut the front panel to v,lidt h a nd th e wa ll. length , press it against the space rs so the top edge is Measu re th e di stance from the front face of the Ru s h agains t the un de rside of th e top panel and a ll ledge r to the front edge of th e bottom strip an d cu t e nd s a rc aligne d . [nsta ll th e front pa nel by driving 6d a few spacers to this le ngt h from sc rap. Attac h th e finis h nails through th e fro nt panel a nd into th e edge spacers to th e face of the ledger at severa l spots a long of th e bo ttom stri p (photo 6). You a lso may nail at the th e length of th e le dger (p hoto 5). T hese space rs s p<:I cer loca tio ns if yo u \vish. A lso dri ve na ils thro ugh w ill ensu re th<:lt the front p<:tnel is ve rt ical w hen it is the top pa ne l a nd into th e top e dge of the front panel. pos itio ned aga inst th e spacers. Set t he na il heads with a na il set.
Trimwork H01l She/Jles • 219
Cut the crO\vn molding to length. If yo ur shelf
has one or m Of e open ends or occ upies more tha n
o ne wa ll , see th e materia l o n ma kin g a crovm mold ing
return (pages 42 to 43 ). Fit the mold ing between the
bottom of t he top panel and t he top of the bottom
strip, maki ng sure the flat ends of t he molding are
fl ush against t he surfaces. Dri ll pilot ho les and drive
nai ls <:It J 2" in terva ls through the molding a nd in to the
top an d bottom stri ps (p hoto 7).
Cove r na il a nd sc rew hea ds wi th \.vood putty a nd
the n sand and fi nis h t he she lf, matc hin g the o th er
room t ri m if poss ibl e .
Finally, nail the crown molding in place at 12" intervals.
I How to Build a stepped Shelf
Attach the 2 x 4 ledger or ledger to the
1 wall at your installation lines, using cabinet
screws and panel adhesive.
This variation of the trinnvo rk wa ll shelf idea lIses face- couple of sc rev,ls t h ro ug h t he lo ng ledge r a nd in to t he
gl ued strips of MDF to create a stepped-down \.vaterfall e nd of the ret u rn ledger.
effect . 'vVhi le you can certa in ly build the w hole Attac h t he top a nd botto m strips as show n in
project piece-by-piece, yo u'll be a ble to do faster, mo re steps 0 a nd E of the crow n she lf mol d ing project.
accu rate \vo rk if you can preassemble the t hree stepped T hen rip stoc k for t he t hree step strips to \,vidth ( Jlh",
down strips on your worksurface . [f you a re add in g a 3" a nd 4 Ih"). Cu t t he stri ps sl igh tl y too lo ng an d the n
re turn o n the shelf, as we do here, pre-assem ble t he glue t hem toget her o n your \vorksurface, maki ng sure
strips for the lo ng wa ll o nl y, the n cut each strip for the the tops are Rush. Drive some 2" wa ll board screws
mating section to le ngt h a nd butt them up aga inst t he ir through t he back face of t he ta ll stri p a nd into th e two
counterpmt on t he Il rst section of shelving. sho rter stri ps to draw the m toge ther (pho to 2).
Layout and ins tal l the ledge r o r ledge rs as shown Afte r the glue-up dries, cut th e glue-up assembly to
for the previous crown mo lding project. Make a si m p le final lengt h . Trim bot h ends to ma ke sure the e nds are
butt joi nt in the corner (photo I). If t he ret urn shelf a ligned. T hen, attach some s pace rs to the front face of
is sho rt, yo u can strengt he n the ledger by d rivin g a the ledger a nd attac h the three-st rip glue- u p by d ri ving220 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS
screvvs th ro ugh the assembly und into the front edge of be approximately 3/./ longe r workin g from to p to the bottom panel (photo 3) . A lso drive screws thro ugh bottom ). I nstall t he tall strip Rrst , and then attach the top panel an d into the tops of the glued-up strips. th e sho rte r ones in success ion using glue and screv/s Attac h th e top an d bottom strip for th e return (ph oto 4) . shelf. Make the top long enough to overhang the end If the return has an exposed e nd, measure th e of th e return , if visibl e, by j ” . Butt the ends of the opening between th e ledger and the shel f front and top and bottom strips up aga inst th e top and bottom cut a fill e r piece to fit (in thi s project, th e piece V,ICl S strips alread y mounted on the \lu ll. Th e n, measure 2” wide and 3 1/2 ” tal l. G lue and nai l the fille r into th e fo r eac h of th e three stepped strips, measuring opening. The n, cover nail and sc rev/ heads with wood from th e mating edge of its co unt erpart o n th e wa ll filler, ca ulk any ga ps between th e project and th e wa ll to th e end of th e return (each successive strip will (photo 5), and th cn san d, prime and paint th c projcct .
3On a flat worksurface, join the three stepped strips together Attach the stepped strips to the top and bottom strips to create strong joints and simplify assembly of the shelf. mounted on the ledger.
4 5
Cut each stepped strip individually to butt up against the Caulk gaps and fill nail and screw holes before sanding and mating strip in the corner and fasten with wallboard screws. painting your shelf project.
Trimwork H01l She/Jles • 221I Box Beam Shelves I f you’ re looking for a basic sta rter project that you can finish wi th yo ur own Aouri shes a nd Aai r, you’ve come to th e ri ght place. This she lf is made fro m a c he ri shed items and an ideal spot for lo ng, Ao wing potted plants. Anot her possibi lity is to dado in a plate groove fo r di splayi ng plates and c hin a. basic des ign platform that looks great as is, but it I f yo u \V<:IIlt to c hange t he size, shape, a nd ca n be eas ily al te red with t rim and fini sh options . In reveals o n t he basic box you ca n add diffe re nt add itio n to its ve rsa tility, this she lf has the be nefi t m o ldings a nd trim to m a ke it you r own. T he good th at its co nn ec ti on to the wa ll su rface is invisib le. The news is that th e assem bl y te c hni ques for bu ilding th e reason is that th e “box” has no back and yo u ca n sl ip box remain th e sa me . All yo u need to do is adjust the it ove r a ledger board fas tened to the wall. Fastening measurell1en ts. through the top of the box holds the assemb ly secu re ly T he s he lf laid out here is fabr icated from MDF in place wit ho ut brac kets or even any visi bl e faste ne rs, and show n painted , but YO Ll co uld ll1<1ke it OLl t of c rea ting a tight, integrated look. hardwood stock a nd matching hardwood ply\vood if As a des ign e leme nt in any li ving spuce YO LI ca n yo u prefer. The basic she lf-box is co mposed of five make severa l Box Beam She lves and hang th e m at pieces: three sides, a bottom , an d a top. T he shelf is diffe re nt heights in a room to create a n acce nt wa ll. 25 ‘h” wide, 10’1:’ deep, a nd 3’1:’ tall. T he top she lf Or, hang several of them at the sa me level an d c reate panel is a single piece of 3// M DF th at is 26 1h” wide a picture ra il , of sorts. They’re perfec t for displaying and I 13// deep. The ledge r is a 2x ripped I lh” sq ua re .
222 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS
Tools Materials Cutting List Table saw 3/;” MDF Part No. Desc. Size Material Miter sav,{ F<:Isteners A Top ponel 3/4 X 11 3f4 x 26W MDF C ircular saw I) 2 x 4 scrap (at least 24” ) Router I) tube adhesive cau lk B Bottom ponel ‘l.xlDx24” MDF Ladder I ) scrap of 1/. / plywood C Side wrops %x 2Yz x 10 3/ / MDF Level D Front wrap %x2 1h x2SW MDF Cord less drill/driver E [Ieot l V1 x l Y1x 23%” 2 x 4 (or 2 x 21 Sctnder or pmver planer
Box Beam She/pes • 223
How to Build Box Beam Shelves
M ost power miter saw s do not have a
10" cutting capacity. To cut the wide stock
for this project, you can either make a
portion of the cut on the miter saw then
turn the board around so you can finish
the cut, or use a circular saw and square-
guide.
The key to a durable, good-looking
assembly is to cut the sides and the front
strips that wrap the bottom panel bottom
panel accurately. Careful measurement
and cutting keeps the miter joints tight and
together duri ng assembly.
CUT THE PARTS Cut the bottom panel to size ll sing a sliding power
Th e first step is to c ut all th e pieces on th e miter and miter smv (or a circu lar saw and straightedge guide
tab le saw. II' you need to, rough-cut the M DF sheet if yo ur miter saw does n't have a 10" cut ca pac ity-
to size lIsing a circu lar 5a\,V, but make th e final cuts photo I ), or a table saw. Beca use th e sides and front
w ith the miter saw <Jnd tab le smv. Sta rt by fabri ca ting w rap around the bottom panel, it is the control point
th e sheWs bOLtom panel. Then , make th e pieces for a for the rest of th e layout. Cutting it accurately is
three-s ided (or C-S haped) shelf box. Th e pieces wi ll important. Be careful Lo be as exac L as yo u ca n while
be assem bled aroulld the bottom panel. C ut th e top- cutting. Cu t stoc k for the shell' si des (ca lled the panel
shelf pane l. Finally, rip the ledger from a piece of 2x w raps ) to 21h" wi dth and sand , joint, or plane out any
stock . T his asse mbly wor ks best if c utting tolerances saw marks left behind. A lso c ut th e top panel to size.
are kep t ti ght, so be extra careful w ith measuring, Rip th e ledger to w idth ( I 'h") and cross-cut it to
marking, and cutting. length. Cut the panel wraps to length using th e miter
saw (photo 2).224 • T HE COM PLETE CU I DE TO CUSTOM SHELVES & BU l t:l’ INS
Clamp the bottom panel to the bench
to keep it stationary while you fasten
the panel wraps around it, enabling you
to focus your attention on getting the
assembly tight.
prior to installing the front panel wrap
to the left panel wrap, dab each miter with
adhesive caulk.ASSEMBLE THE PARTS the be nch then clampi ng t he bo ttom panel ove r it, Assembl ing the parts squure and tight all starts with propping it up (photo 3) . Fo ll ow up by w rapp ing t he the bottom pa nel -it’s t he guide for getting the mi ters bottom panel \vit h t he pa ne l wraps. n ice a nd t ight. For fasten in g, a cordl ess dri ll a nd tr im Fasten the left pa ne l wrap to t he botto m pane l. drive screws (p re·dri ll a nd co un ters in k a ll holes) is Use the front p<1nei v,lmp to g u ide yo ur exac t place me nt great. A brad na il e r or ll nis h na ile r \·v ill also wo rk of t he left panel v,rrap. I n other words , matc h up the n icely. Should you u se a pneumatic too l like this, miters o n the front and left panel wraps, t hen fasten make sure to drive fasteners stra ight into the stock. the left pa nel wrap . App ly ad hesive cau lk to t he le ft Na ils drive n at a n angle can blO\·v out of t he material pane l wrap m ite r a nd the left side miter on t he fro nt <J nd are tough to remove. panel wrap (photo 4), then insta ll the front panel w rap. A good tr ick fo r add in g s hadow lines is to inset iVIake su re to have a damp clot h or spo nge to vv ipe the bottom into the pa nel wraps aboll t 1// . Do this away any squeeze-o ut. Repeat this process fo r t he ri ght by nrst screwing a scrap of 1/./ plywood (c ut just a panel .vrap a nd insta ll. O nly fasten the bottom edge. little sma ll er t han t he bottom panel’s dimens ions ) o n
Box Bealll She/Jles • 225
Use a rou ter and profllin g bit to shape a decorative HANG THE SHELF
edge " lo ng th e fro nt of the top pane l (ph oto 5). Att"ch I nstalling th e Box Beam Shelf on th e wa ll ledger
th e top piece to the box frame. Before fastening, use a provides an in visi bl e con nec tion. The open bae k of
combinati on square and doubl e~c h eck th at all revea ls the shelf slips over a ledger board you fasten to the
are the saille (photo 6). wall studs. You then drive sc rews through the shelf
panel down into the ledger for a very snug, ve ry secure
CAULK & FINISH connec tion. It may be tempt ing on some wa ll s to
I t's easier to ca ulk and paint thi s projec t in the shop si mpl y use h ollow~\,va ll anchors in stead of locating an d
tha n it is on th e wa ll. Caulk, prime, an d pain t as fastening to two stud s, but because all the weight of
desired. A sma ll paint roller sleeve wi ll give a smooth, the Box Beam She lf is ou t at the front edge, that is not
professional fini sh (photo 7) . a recommended co nnec ti on. Besides, at 24 II long, th e
ledger for the Box Beam Shel f shou ld cover at least
6
cut a decorative profile along the front edge of the top Before fastening the top panel on top of the box frame,
panel, such as the agee profile being routed into the top panel make sure that the reveals are equal all the way around and
here. that the back is flush to the back edge of the box assembly.
8
Finishing this BOX Beam Shelf in the shop is much easier Make a solid connection with the studs by driving two
than finishing it in location . Prop it up on its back edge during screws per stud through the ledger. 1f the stud is near the end
finishing so you can access the top, sides, and bottom with a of the ledger, pre-drill and countersink before fastening.
paint brush. Be careful not to knock it over.226 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
two vvu ll studs ulmost anY”lhere you put it (es peciull y if you r “lu ll s have 16 o.c. framing), D eterm ine the sheWs fin a l loca t io n and mark it 9 on the wa ll . T ry to locate it so that the ledge r fall s over two wa ll framing members. Strike a leve l li ne. Sc rew th e ledger to th e wa ll studs with 3’h ” deck sc rews (photo 8). U se two screws per stud. Predri ll countersunk pilot holes for at least th ree dec k screws 3// in fro m th e bac k edge of the top panel. Slip the Box Bea m Shelf over the ledger so the bac k edges are flu sh agains t the wa ll su rface. Faste n the Hold the shelf tight to the wa ll and fasten using at least three shelf to the wa ll by driving t’ dec k sc rews through the 2” deck screws driven through pilot holes and into the tops of p ilot holes and in to th e top of th e ledger (photo 9). the ledger.
"Other Ideas" ~
One great feature about this shelf design is the numerous rail you choose, you may not even have to alter the
ways you can add your own details to it. You can use your measurements on the shel f box, and you can apply
table saw to cut in a plate groove in the top shelf panel the chair rail right to the box. However, if you select a
or apply a molding detail with casing, chair rail or crown molding that is more than W' thick, trim th e box size by
under the top shelf panel to provide lift, create texture and %" so you can keep the top shelf panel's 1" overhang.
add shadow lines. You can add a second top shelf panel If you add a molding that's 1" thick or thicker, make the
a littler larger than the first to create a layered effect. And sides of the box 1" shorter and 1" thinner to compensate.
you can wrap the back with a picture-frame molding. The
sky is the limit. LAYERS
You need to alter the sizes of the shelf box and the using two- instead of one- top shelf panels is another
top shelf to fit these additions so lay them out carefully simple but interesting way to add detail. Make the
before you begin cutting wood. But, because the ledger second top shelf panel 'h" deeper and 1" longer than
board connection is strong but small, th ere is room to the original shelf panel shown above. Then, instead of
move. Here are some ideas to get you started : routing a bead on the top of the panel, rout a chamfer
on the bottom of each shelf panel to make them look
PLATE GROOVE like they are stepped and ascending. Routing a cove is
Adding a plate groove is easy and a smart addition if also a nice detail.
you plan to display plates or other items like framed
photos that you intend to lean on the wall. You can cut PICTURE FRAME
the grooves in a single pass on your table saw using a Whichever shel f you build, you can add a picture frame
dado head cutter, or you can take multiple passes with a molding to the back of the unit to make the unit look
standard saw blade to create the groove. Make the groove like it is an extension of the wall space. The idea is to
%" to %" wide and '/4" deep. You can even use a router use 1 x 4 or MDF ri pped to width and wrap the back
and edge guide to plow a dado into the top of the shelf of the Box Beam Shelf with it. Install the shel f box
panel. Tip: When cutting the groove, do not cut all the way without the top shelf panel and fasten into the ledger
up to the ends of the board. That way, the groove will be board from the sides. Install the picture frame molding
invisible when viewed from below or straight on. If you cut before installing the top shelf panel or any other
past the shelf ends you'll be able to see the groove. molding combinations. Also be aware that the picture
frame molding adds 'I,' to the overall depth of the shelf
MOLDING DETAIL so you may want to trim a corresponding 'I,' off your top
Adding a basic chair rail molding is the easiest add-on shelf panels.
option for the Box Beam Shel f. Depending on the chair
Box Bealll She/Jles • 227I Floor-to-Ceiling Shelves F loor-to-ce i ling s he lves are sturdie r and make better use of space t han freestanding bookcases. Wh e n fini s he d a nd tri mmed to matc h t he surroun din g rOOIll , Aoor-to -ce iling shelves t urn an ord inary roo m into an invit ing den or lib rary. T hi s projec t llses finis h-grade oak p lywood a nd a so lid oak face frame to create t he look of an expensive, so lid oak s helf unit at a fra c t ion of the cost . The pl ywood pa ne ls are supported a nd st rengthened by a n interna l fram ework of 2 x 4 stud lumbe r. ;Vhen instu ll ing Aoor-to-ce iling shelves in a corner, as shovvn he re, add 1// ply,vood spacers to the support s t uds t hat <Jdjoi n the wa ll . Spacers e nsure tha t face frame stiles of equal w idth can be insta lle d at bo th she lf ends (see diagram, page opposite) . Al though it is sim il a r in so me fashio ns to t he formal boo kcase project fea tu red on pages 188 to 193, this mo re casua l vers ion u tili zes somewhat differe nt building tec hn iques and has a more conte m porary! casual <:tppe<:tra nce. The e nd panels a nd stand<:trds are made from relut ivel y inexpe ns ive plyv.:ood vv ith a rotal)r~c u t re d oak veneer t hat ha s a medi um oak finis h . If this high ly recogni za ble look doesn ‘t gu ite lit in w it h your decor, simply use pl ywood with a diffe re nt oute r ve neer, suc h as maple or bi rch or wa ln ut , and eit her leave the ‘\food u ncolored or give it a da rk sta in . Or, yo u ca n bu ild t he project fro m pa jn t ~grade pl yv.rood a nd fi ni sh it w ith a livel y color.
228 • T H E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Tools Materials Cutting List Tape measure ( 12) 2 X 4 X 8 pinc Part No. Des c. Size Material Penci l (3) ‘t X 4 x 8 oak plywood A 6 Top ond sole plotes 59y,” 2 x 4s Level (2) 3j, x 4 x 8 oak plywood Fra ming square (3) I x 4 x lOft. oak B 6 Support studs 91 ’;’” 2 x 4s Plumb bob ( I ) I x 3 X 10ft. oak C End ponel 950/. x 13” y,” ook plywood Dri ll with d rive bits Fin ish nails ( 11/1”, 2” ) D 4 Top. bottom ponels 27 ‘1. x 13” y,” ook plywood Hammer Dr)“vall or deck screws E 8 Risers 44’1. x 13” ’;’” ook plywood C ircular saw ( ]3/-t”, 2” , 3”) F 2 Permanent shelves 27 ‘1. x 13” %” ook plywood Houte r Sh ims 3// straight bi t Meta l s helf standards and c li ps G 8 Adjustoble shelves 26 ‘1. x 11’1. %” ook plywood Fin ish ing materials H Stiles ond bottom roil 28 lineal ft. I x 4 ook 1// plywood scraps Top roil, middle roil 10 lineal ft. I x 3 ook Carpen ter’s gl ue J Shelf edging 18 lineal ft. I x 2 ook
Flonr-/o-Ceili l1g She/pes • 229
How to Build Floor-to-Ceiling Shelves
Mark the location for two parallel 2 x 4 top plates on the Measure and cut the 2 x 4 top plates. Position each plate,
ceiling, using a framing square as a guide. The front edge of the check to make sure it is level, and install shims if necessary.
outer top plate should be 13" from the back wall, and the other Attach the plates to the ceiling with 3" screws driven into the
top plate should be flush against the wall. Mark the location of joists or blocking.
the ceiling joists; if necessary, install blocking between joists to
provide a surface for anchoring the top plates.
3 ~-
Cut 2 x 4 sale plates and screw them Install 2 x 4 support studs between the Install the center support studs
together to form two doubled sale ends of the top plates and sole plates. midway between the end support studs.
plates. Use a plumb bob suspended Attach support studs with 3" screws Attach them to the bottom plate first,
from the outside corners of the top driven toenail-style into the top plates using 3" screws driven toenail-style. Use
plates to align the sole plates. Shim the and sole plates. a level to make sure that each stud is
plates to level, if needed. Anchor the plumb, then attach the studs to the top
plates by driving 3" screws toenail-style plate with 3" screws.
into the floor230 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Where the shelves fit into a corner, Where the end of the project is Measure and cut ‘k ” plywood top use 1%” screws to attach ’.” plywood exposed, measure and cut a ‘h” plywood and bottom panels to fit between the spacers on the inside faces of the end panel to floor-to-ceiling height. support studs. Attach to the top and support studs, spaced every 4” . Make Attach the panel to the support studs sale plates using 1’. ” fin ish nails. sure spacers do not extend past the so the front edges are flush, using n… front face of the studs. screws driven through the support studs and into the end panel.
10Measure and cut lower risers from Install lower risers on each side of Measure and cut permanent shelves ‘k ” plywood, then cut dadoes for metal the 2 x 4 support studs so the front from ¥.’ plywood to fit between the shelf standards using an edge guide edges are flush with the edges of the support studs, just above the lower (page 41). studs. Attach risers with 1’.” finish nails risers. Set the shelves on the risers and driven into the support studs. For risers attach them with 1’k ” fin ish nails driven that adjoin the wall, drive nails at spacer down into the risers. locations.
Floor-to-Ceilil1g She/Jles • 231
13
Measure and cut upper risers to fit between the permanent Measure and cut 1 x 3 stiles to reach from floor to ceiling
shelves and the top panels. Cut dadoes for metal shelf along the front edges of the exposed support studs. Drill pilot
standards, then attach the risers to the support studs with 1'h" holes and attach the stiles to the support studs so they are
finish nails. flush with the risers, using glue and 1'h" finish nails driven at 8"
intervals.
15
Measure and cut 1 x 3 top rails to fit between the stiles. Drill Measure and cut 1 x 4 bottom rails to fit between the stiles.
pilot holes and attach the rails to the top plate and top panels, Drill pilot holes, and attach the rails to the sale plates and
using carpenter's glue and 1'k" finish nails. bottom panels, using glue and 1'h" finish nails. The top edge of
the rails should be flush with the top surface of the plywood
panels.232 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Fill nail holes, then sand and finish the Measure, cut, and install metal shelf Measure and cut adjustable shelves wood surfaces. standards into the dadoes, using nails or ,, ” shorter than the distance between screws provided by the manufacturer. metal standards. Cut shelf edging, and attach it with glue and 1’h” finish nails. Sand and finish the shelves.
20Insert shelf clips into the metal shelf standards and install Cover gaps between the project and walls and floor with the adjustable shelves at desired heights. molding that has been finished to match the shelf unit.
Floor-fa-Ceilillg She/Jles • 233I Photo Credits Aristokraft Cabinetry © Aristokraft Cabin etry; p. 6 www.aristokraft.com
Todd Caverly
© Todd Caverly fo r Judy Ostrow, Designer; p. 7 (right)
© Tod d Caverly fo r G. M. Wild Construction, Inc.; pp.1D, 15 (bottom left)
© Todd Caverly; p. 15 (top)
Diamond Cabinets
© Di amond Cabinets, a division of MasterBrand Cabin ets, Inc.; pp. 5, 9
www.d iamondcabinets.com
Focal point Architectural products
© Focal point Archi tectural product s; p. 7 (left)
www.foca lpointa p.com
KraftMaid Cabinetry, Inc.
© KraftMa id Cabinetry, Inc.; pp.13, 16 (bottom)
www kraftma id.com
Omega Cabinetry
© Omega Cabin etry; p. 15 (bottom right)
wwwomegacab.co m
Quality Cabinets
© Quality Cabinet s; p. 14
www. quali tycab inets.com
Quentin Harriot
© Quenti n Harriotlwwwewastock.com; p. 17
Brian VandenBrink
© Brian VandenBrink for Elli ott Elliott Norelius Arc hitect s; p. 8 (top)
© Brian VandenBrink for Brett Donham Architect; p. 8 (bottom)
© Brian VandenBrink for Centerbrook Archi tect s; p. 12 (top)
© Brian VandenBrink for Lo Yi Chan Arc hitect; p. 12 (bottom)
Wellborn Cabinet, Inc.
© Wellborn Cabinet, lnc., pp.11 (both), 16 (top)
wwwwellborn .com234 • TH E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS
Index A Bevel returns, 42 Couches, storage under, 12 Access space, standard built-in Biscuit joiners, 25 Countertops measurements for, 31 Block planes, 22, 23 installing laminate, 68-75 AC plywood, 28 Bookshelves/ bookcases installing post-form, 64-67 Actual vs. nominal sizes, 32 building floor-to-ceiling shelves, materials, 62-63 Adjustable shelves, installing, 185 228-233 wood edges for, 76-77 Adjustments, making small width building formal, 188-193 Country-style eating nooks, or height, 32 ideas for, 10-11 building, 102-111 Angled finish nailers, 26 for window seats, 80-87 benches, 104-109 Assembly jigs, making, 200 Box beam shelves, building, 222-227 tables, 108-11 1 Brad nailers, 26 Crown molding wall shelves, B Brads, 27 building, 214-220 Bars, building, 168-179 Butcher block, 62 Crown staples, 27 installing bartop, 176-177 Cube shelves, building, 198-203 installing cabinets, 177-178 C Cutting jOints, 36 installing countertop, 179 Cabinets instal ling trim & hardware, 177-178 adding doors, 46 o making aprons and trims, 173-174 carpeting and, 153 Dado jOints, 215 making kneewall coverings, door options, 47 Diagrams 174-175 installing, 54-59 accurately scaled, 30 making kneewalls, 172-173 base, 58-59,82-84,90, 91-93 for cutting, 33 overview of, 168-171 corner, 54 Display units Base cabinets kneewall,162-167 building box beam shelves, instal ling, 58-59 wall, 55-57,90,9 1 222- 227 installing for window seats, 82-85 Chalk lines, 21 building cubes, 198-203 standard built-in depth Children’s rooms building floor-to-ceiling shelves, measurements for, 31 ideas for, 15 228-233 Basements making loft beds for, 94-101 building trimwork wall shelves, bu ilding joist shelves for, 206-209 Chisels, 22, 23 214-221 building shelves for, 194-197 Chop saws, 24, 25 building V-step bin and shelving Base shoe returns, cutting mitered, 43 Circu lar saws, 24 units, 210-213 Bathrooms Closet shelves, installing, 204-205 building wall niches,l12-117 building towel towers, 136-141 Combination squares, 21 ideas for, 7, 11 building wall cabinets, 156-161 compound power miter saws, 24, 25 step back boxes, 203 ideas for, 8-9, 14-15 Compound power miter saw stops, 200 Doors making bin & shelving units, 210-213 Compressors, 26 adding, 46 Bedrooms Construction tools, 22-23 options for, 47 ideas for, 8 Contact cement, 68, 73 Drawers making bed surrounds, 88- 93 coping saws, 22, 23 building basic overlay, 48-49 making loft beds, 94-101 Cordless drills, 24 measuring for, 48 Belt sanders, 25 Corner cabinets, installing, 54 standard built-in measurements Benches, building country-style, Corner unit hobby centers, for, 31 104-109 building, 150-155 Drawings, making, 30
frub: • 235
Drills, cordless, 24 Home offices M
Dry bars, building, 168-179 building understairs work Materials
installing bartop, 176-177 centers, 142-149 actual vs. nominal sizes, 32
installing cabinets, 177-178 ideas for, 12-13 list of, 33
installing countertop, 179 lumber, 29
installing trim & hardware, 177-178 sheet goods, 28
making aprons and trims, 173-174 Inside corners, mitering, 40 Measurements, 31-33
making kneewall coverings, 174-175 Medium density fiberboard (MDF), 28
making kneewalls, 172-173 J Medium density overlay (MDO), 28
overviewof,168-171 Jig saws, 24 Metal files, 22, 23
Dust masks, 22 JOints, cutting & fitting, 36 Metals standards for adjustable
Joist shelving, making, 206-209 shelves, installing, 185
E Mitered returns, cutting, 42-43
Ear protection, 22, 35 K Modular shelves, 184
End nippers, 22, 23 Kitchens Moldings, adding, 227
Eye protection, 22, 35 building dividers to separate eating
& cooking areas, 118-127 N
F building eating nooks, 102-111 Nail guns, 26
Fasteners, pneumatic, 27 benches, 104-109 Nails, 27
Files, 22, 23 tables, 108- 111 Niches, building, 112-117
Finishes creating islands for, 60-61 Nominal vs. actual sizes, 32
applying grain fillers, 53 ideas for, 8,11, 12, 16 Nooks and crannies storage
making sanding sealers, 51 making countertops, 62-77 ideas, 16- 17
for moist areas, 156 installing post-form, 64-67
preparing wood for, 50-52 laminate, 68-75 o
using sanding sealers, 53 wood edges for, 76-77 Odd-shaped room seating ideas, 12
when to apply, 161 Kneewall areas Out-of-square outside corners,
Finish nailers, 26 building work centers, 142-149 mitering, 39
Finish nails, 27 ideas, 16-17 Outside corners, mitering, 38-39
Finish sanders, 25 installing cabinets in, 162-167
Fitting joints, 36 Knives, 22, 23 p
Frameless doors, 47 Pin nailers, 26
Framing squares, 21 L Pin-style supports for adjustable
Laminate countertops, building, 68-75 shelves, installing, 185
G Laser levels, 21 Planers, 25
Garages, building utility shelves Laundry centers, 128-135 Planning steps, 30-33
for, 194-197 building utility shelves for, 194-197 Plate grooves, 227
Glass doors, 47 lighting in, 128, 130, 134-135 Plumb, establishing, 44-45
Grain fillers, applying, 53 making joist shelving for, 206-209 Plywood,28
Layout tools, 20-21 Pneumatic fasteners, 27
H Level, establishing, 44-45 Pneumatic tools, 26
Hammers, 22, 23 Levers, 21 portable compressors, 26
Handsaws, 22, 23 Lighting Post-form countertops,
Hardwood veneer plywood, 28 for bed surrounds, 88 installing, 64-67
Headless pins, 26, 27 in laundry centers, 128, 130, Power miter saws, 24, 25
Height adjustments, making small, 32 134-135 Power miter saw stops, 200
Hidden shelving, making, 206-209 in work area, 34 Power miter saw techniques, 37-43
Hobby centers, building, 150-155 Loft beds, making, 94-101 mitering inside corners, 40
Lumber, 29236 • THE COMPLETE CUIf)E TO C USTOM SHELVES & BUILT·INS
mitering outside corners, 38-39 installing wire, 186-187 V Power planers, 25 modular, 184 Veneer edge tapes, 184 Power tools, 24-25, 35 standard built-in measurements V-step bin and shelving units, Preparation steps for, 31 making, 210-213 jobsite organizing, 34 strength of, 182, 183 planning, 30-33 Side cutters, 22, 23 W profile gauges, 21 Sliding doors, 47 wainscoting paneling, 28 Protective gear, 22, 35 Sliding miter saws, 37 Wall cabinets, installing, 55-57 Pry bars, 22 Sale plates, thickness of, 32 Wall display units Putty knives, 22, 23 Solvent-base contact cement, 68 building box beam shelves, Sports equipment storage ideas, 15 222-227 R Square corners, establishing, 44-45 building cubes, 198- 203 Random-orbit sanders, 25 Square inside corners, mitering, 40 building floor-to-ceiling Rasps, 22, 23 Square outside corners, mitering, 38 shelves, 228- 233 Ready-made cabinet doors, 47 Standard built-in measurements, 31 building trimwork wal l shelves, Reciprocating saws, 24, 25 Staplers, 26 214-221 Room dividers Staples, 27 building V-step bin and shelving building, 118-127 Stepback boxes, 203 units, 210-213 storage idea, 11 Stepped wall shelves, building wall niches, 112-117 Routers, 25 building, 214-217, 220-221 ideas for, 7, 11 Stops for miters, 200 step back boxes, 203 S Straightedge guides, 41 Water-base contact cement, 68 Safety gear, 22, 35 Stud finders, 21 Width adjustments, making small, 32 Safety issues, 35 Window seats, making, 80-87 Sanders, 25 T installing base cabinets, 82-85 Sanding sealers Table saws, 25 making bookcases for sides, 86-87 making, 51 Tape measures, 20 Wine racks, 16- 17 using, 53 T-bevels, 21, 45 Wire shelves, installing, 186-187 Sandpaper grit chart, 51 Tools Wood Saws, 22, 23, 24,25, 37 construction, 22-23 glues and headless pins for, 27 Seating importance of quality, 20 grain fillers for, 51, 53 building country-style for layout, 20-21 lumber, 29 benches, 104-109 pneumatic, 26 preparing for finishes, 50-52 ideas for, 8, 12 power, 24-25, 35 sheet goods, 28 standard built-in measurements TOp plates, thickness of, 32 Work area set-up, 34 for, 31 Towel towers, building, 136-141 Work-surface height, standard built-in Sheet goods, 28 measurements for, 31 Shelves U attaching cleats to wall, 191 Underbed storage ideas, 8 attachment methods, 183 Understairs building box beam, 222-227 building kneewall cabinets building cube, 198-203 for, 162-167 building floor-to-ceiling, 228-233 building work centers, 142-149 building joist, 206-209 wine storage ideas for, 16-17 building trimwork wall, 214-221 Utility knives, 22, 23 building utility, 194-197 Utility rooms installing adjustable, 185 building joist shelves for, 206- 209 installing closet, 204-205 building shelves for, 194-197 ideas for, 15
I I/dex • 237I Conversion Charts Converting Measurements To Convert: To: Multiply by: To Convert: To: Multiply by: Inches Millimeters 25.4 Millimeters Inches 0.039 Inches Centimeters 2.54 Centimeters Inches 0.394 Feet Meters 0.305 Meters Feet 3.28
' YardS
Square inches
Meiers
Square centimeters
0.914
6.45
IMeters
Square centimeters
Yards
Square inches
1.09
0 .155
I
[square feet Square meters 0.093 Ilsquare meters Square feet 10.8
Square yards Square meters 0.836 Square meters Square yards 1.2
Cubic inches Cubic centimeters 16.4 Cubic centimeters Cubic inches 0.061
Cubic feet Cubic meters 0.0283 Cubic meters Cubic feet 35.3
Cubic yards Cubic meters 0.765 Cubic meters Cubic yards 1.31
Ounces Milliliters 30.0 Milliliters Ounces 033
[ Pints (U .S.) Liters 0.473 (Imp. 0.568) Iliters Pints (US.) 2.114 (Imp. 1.76)
Quarts (U.S.) liters 0.946 (Imp. 1.136) liters Quarts (US .) 1.057 (Imp. 0.88)
tGaliOnS (U.S.) Liters 3.785 (Imp. 4.546) Liters Gallons (U.S.) 0.264 (Imp. 022)
Ounces Grams 28.4 Grams Ounces 0.035
t pounds Kilograms 0.454 IKilograms Pounds 22
!
Lumber Dimensions Liquid Measurement Equivalents
Nominal - U.S. Actual - U.S . METRIC
1x 2 ¥4 x 11k' 19x 38 mm 1 Pint = 16 Fluid Ounces = 2 Cups
1x3 =¥4 x 21h' 19 x 64 mm
1 Quart = 32 Fluid Ounces = 2 Pints
1x4 =¥4 x 31;2' 19 x 89 mm
1x5 ¥4 x 4112' 19x114mm 1 Gallon = 128 Fluid Ounces = 4 Quarts
1x6 =¥4 x 51;2' 19x 140mm
1x 7 ¥4 X 6V4' 19x159mm
1x 8 ¥4 X 7V4' 19 x 184 mm
converting Temperatures
1 x 10 =¥4 X 9V4' 19x 235 mm Convert degrees Fahrenheit (F) to degrees Celsius (C) by
1 x 12 ¥4 X 11V4' 19x 286 mm following th is simple formula: Subtract 32 from the Fahrenheit
1V4 x 4 1 x 31;2' 25x89mm temperature reading. Then, multiply that number by &t.
1V4 x 6 1 x 51;2' For example, nOF - 32 = 45. 45 x % = 25°C.
25x140mm
1V4 x 8 1 x 7114' 25x184mm To convert degrees Celsius to degrees Fahrenheit, multiply the
lV4xlO 1 x 9V4' 25 x 235 mm Celsius temperature reading by 9;5. Then, add 32 For example,
1V4 x 12 1 x 111/4' 25 x 286 mm 25°C x 9;5 = 45. 45 + 32 = n°F.
11k x 4 lV4x31h' 32x89mm
H 2x 6 1V4X5112' 32 x 140 mm FAHRENHEIT CELSIUS
11k x 8 1114 x 7114' 32x184mm
11;2 x 10 1114 x 9V4' 32 x 235 mm
11k x 12 1114 X 11114' 32 x 286 mm
2x4 11k x 31;2' 38x89mm
2x6 11k x 51;2' 38x 140mm
2x8 11k x 7114' 38x184mm
Freezi ng
2 x 10 11k X 9V4' 38 x 235 mm
2 x 12 11kx 11114' 38 x 286 mm
3x6 2112 x 51;2' 64 x 140 mm
4x4 3 112 x 31;2' B9xB9mm
4x6 3 112 x 5 112' 89x140mm238 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT· 1NS
CREATIVE
PUBLISHING
INTERNATIONAL
Build Your Own
Custom Closet
GZ:re’s almost nothing in the modern home mar can delight us
~ :: an inrelligenrly organized. nicely featured closer-a place
where things are organized in pleasing geometry. where we can find
and retrieve that perfect tie or that just-right sweater, insrandy.
Build Your Own Custom Cwset is the first book ro show consumers a1l me inside tips on designing a CUS[Qm closet, and how to install it using materials they can buy themselves. T his is the book that willlifr readers from closet purgatory inm the heaven of th e well-organized closet- withom selling their souls.
ISBN 1-58923-306-9
The Complete Guide to Attics & Basements CZ::Complete Guide to Attics & Basements is the perfect y i~~ ~omeowners who need more living space but aren’t able or willing to move to a larger home or build an expensive roo m addition. More man 75% of homes have unfinished space in an anic or basemem, JUSt waiting for a creative touch, and this book will show readers how to conven thac territo ry into praccicalliving space. Armed with this book, homeowners will be able to add a bedroom, bathroom, recreation room, or home office wi mom changing th e basic blueprint of the home.
ISBN 1-58923-302-6
CREATIVE PUBLISHING INTERNATIONAL
Complete Guide to Bathrooms Complete Guide to Ceramic & Stone Tile Complete Guide to Creative Landscapes Complete Guide to Decks Complete Guide to Dream Kitchens Complete Gu ide to Finishing Walls & Ceilings Complete Guide to Flooring Complete Guide to Home Carpentry Complete Guide to Home Plumbing Complete Guide to Home Wiring Complete Guide to Landscape Construction Complete Guide to Masonry & Stonework ISBN: 1-58923-304-2 Complete Guide to Outdoor Wood Projects Complete Guide to Painting & Decorating Complete Guide to Roofing & Siding Complete Guide to Trim & Finish Carpentry Complete Guide to Windows & Doors Complete Guide to Wood Storage Projects Complete Guide to Yard & Garden Features Complete Outdoor Builder Complete Photo Guide to Home Repair Complete Photo Guide to Home Improvement
ISBN: 1-58923-331-XRather have me do it?
Carpentry is my craft. Shelves, trim, doors — built to last.