Walls & Ceilings
Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Finishing Walls & Ceilings
Source: Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Finishing Walls & Ceilings.pdf
Source file: Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Finishing Walls & Ceilings.pdf
THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO ’!. 1,i,) I f/ :) \j~ r
-Includes Plaster, Skim-coating, and Textured Ceiling Finishes
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THE COMPLETE GUIDE TOFinishing WALLS & CEILINGS Includes Plaster, Skim-coating, and Texture Ceiling Finishes
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CHANHASSEN. MINNESOTA
www.creativepub.com
(j Publisher: Bryan Trandem
Senior Editor: Mark Johansono.tM~iIq Editor: Tom Lemmer ••111 … I11III Assistant Managing Editor: Tracy Stanley Copyright © 2007 Creative Photography Director: Tim Himsel Creat ive Publish ing international, Inc . Senior Art Director: Dave Schelitzche 18705 Lake Drive East Lead Photographer: Steve Galvin Chanhasse n, Minnesota 553 17 Additional Photographers: Andrea Rugg, Joel Schnell 1-800-328-3895 Scene Shop Carpenter: Randy Aust in www.creativepub.com Additional Shop Carpenter: Glenn Austin All rights reserved Photo Editor: Julie Caruso Technicallffustrator: Earl Slack Production Manager: Laura Hokkanen Printed in China Proofreader: Carolyn Henry-Johanson THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO FI NISHING WALLS & C EI LINGS 1098765432 1 Created by: T he Editors of Creative Publishing international, Inc., in cooperation with Black & Decker. Black & Deckert” is a trademark of President/CEO: Ken Fund T he Black & Decker Corporation and is used under license.
2
Contents Introduction . … 4 Devising a Layout Plan … 60 Portfolio of Wall & Ceiling Ideas … 6 Preparing for Wallboard Installation .. … 62 Measuring & Cutting Wallboard … .. 66 Building Basic Walls & Ceilings … 13 Fastening Wallboard … ..• …•…•. .72 Basic House Framing .. t4 Hanging Standard Wallboard …•… 74 Building Partition Walls .. t8 Hanging Wallboard in Multiple Layers. .. 84 Framing Soffits & Chases … … . … … 25 Hanging Decorative Wallboard Panels … 86 Framing with Steel … .28 .32 Hanging Wallboard on Curves … 88 Covering Foundation Walls Framing Curved Walls. … 36 Adding Architectural Detail with Wallboard .. … 90
Building Glass Block Walls … … … 38 Hanging Cementboard … 92
Installing Fiberglass Insulation .42 Soundproofing Walls & Ceilings .. 44 Finishing Wallboard … . … 95 Soundproofing Home Theaters .. 48 Wallboard Finish Materials … . … . … 96 Installing Wall Membranes .. … … 50 Tools for Finishing Wallboard . …•…•… 98 Installing Corner Bead … … 100 Installing Wallboard … 53 Recommended Levels of Wallboard Finish … . 104 Wallboard & Wallboard Installation Materials .54 Taping Wallboard Seams … 106 Tools for Installing Wallboard … … … … … 58 Final Inspection & Fixing Problems … 116
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Sanding Wallboard … . … . … . . 118 Tiling a Kitchen Backsplash … … … 196 Applying a Skim Coat … … 122 Installing Interior Trim … … … … ..... 200 Texturing Walls & Ceilings … 123 Installing Polymer Crown Molding … … ..... 206 Applying Veneer Plaster … 128 Installing Door & Window Casing … … … 208 Installing Paneling & Repairing Walls & Ceilings … 211 Ceiling Systems … 135 Repairing Wallboard … … 212 Installing Paneling … 136 Repairing Plaster … 217 Adding a Wainscot … … . . •… 140 Replacing Sheet Paneling … . ..•… 220 Installing Wainscot Frames … 144 Repairing Ceramic Tile …•.•… … ........ 222 Paneling a Ceiling .. 150 Repairing Wallcovering … … .224 Installing a Suspended Ceiling … 154 Repairing Ceilings … . .. 226 Installing Acoustical Ceiling Tile … 158 Repairing Water Damaged Walls & Ceilings .. 228 Installing Tin Ceiling Tile … . 161 Removing Wall & Ceiling Surfaces … 230 Conversion Charts/ Finishing Walls & Ceilings … 165 Contributors/Resources … 234 Basic Painting Techniques … 166 Index … 236 Hanging Wallcoverings … … … … … 176 Installing Ceramic Wall Tile … … … . 188
NOTICE TO READERS
For safety , use caution . care . and good judgment
when follow ing the procedures described in this
book. The publisher and Black & Decker cannot
assume responsibility for any damage to propertyLibrary of Congress or injury to persons as a result of misuse of the in- Cataloging-in-Publication Data formation provided. On file The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications . In some in- stances . additional techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufactur- Other titles from Creative Publishing internatiooal include : ers’ safety warnings and instructions included with The Complete Guide to Home Wiring, The Complete Guide to Home Plumbing, products. Deviation from the directions may create The Complete Guide to Home Carpentry, The Complete Guide to Decks, The injury exposure and void warranties . The projects Complete Guide to Painting & Decorating, The Complete Guide To Bathrooms, in this book vary widely as to skill levels required . The Complete Guide to Kitchens, The Complete Guide to Flooring, The Com- plete Guide to Roofing & Siding, The Complete Guide to Landscape Construc- Some may not be appropriate for al l do-it-your- tion, The Complete Guide to Yard & Garden Features, The Complete Guide to seifers, and some may require professional help. Creative Landscapes. The Complete Guide to Windows & Doors, The Com- Consult your local building department for infor- plete Guide to Wood Storage Projects, The Complete Guide to Easy Wood- working Projects, The Complete Guide to Trim & Finish C8rpentry, The mation on building permits . codes, and other laws Complete Guide to Gazebos & Arbors, The Complete Guide to Ceramic & as they apply to your project. Stone Tile, The Complete Guide to Masonry & Stonework.
3Introduction
This book is a comprehensive guide to every aspect of building and finishing walls and ceilings, providing just about all the in- formation most people are likely to need. It is an important ref- erence for anyone who wants to understand the structural elements of home construction and surface finishes , but is first and foremost a how-to guide for homeowners who want to do this work themselves with a level of quality that rivals that achieved by professional frame-and-finish carpenters. Profes- sionals may also find the book useful as a refresher, or as a helpful tool for explaining construction processes and finish op- tions to their customers. The Complete Guide to Finishing Walls & Ceilings is an indis- pensible guide to anyone interested in remodeling, especially those considering a major renovation or seeking to finish off un- finished space in their homes. It is organized to provide you with an encyclopedic understanding of this important element of the remodeling process. Section One, Building Basic Walls & Ceilings gives the essential steps in planning, laying out, and framing walls and ceilings. You ‘ll learn not only the basics of stud and joist construction , but how to frame with steel, how to attach walls to cement walls, and special techniques for soundproofing and for dealing with walls vulnerable to moisture. Section Two, Installing Wallboard, leads you through the steps for covering framing with surface panels of wallboard or ce - mentboard. It includes information on creating curves and ar- chitectural details. Section Three, Finishing Wallboard, shows the classic tech- niques for taping , mudding and smoothing wallboard joints, but also gives important information on decorative skim coats and plaster veneers. Section Four, Installing Paneling & Ceiling Systems, provides in - formation on alternatives to wallboard: paneling , wainscotting , suspended ceilings , acoustical ceilings, and tin ceiling tiles. Section Five, Finishing Walls & Ceilings, provides an overview of basic painting and wallpapering techniques , as well as the basics of wood trim installation. Finally, Section Six, Repairing Walls & Ceilings, will show you how to keep wallboard , plaster, and tiled surfaces in good shape. The Complete Guide to Finishing Walls & Ceilings is an essen- tial reference for the homeowner who wants to understand wall and ceiling construction and finish processes. A helpful com- panion volume is The Complete Guide to Trim & Finish Carpen- try, which offers additional information on creative trim carpentry and cabinet installation .
5Portfolio of Wall & Ceiling Ideas Your walls and ceilings are much more than increasing variety of wall and ceiling finish mate- structural barriers dividing your house into sepa- rials available to you . Most home centers and rate areas. They are canvases awaiting an in- lumberyards kee p an impressive selection in spired treatment that can set mood, distinguish stock and can easily accommodate special orders. space, and reflect your personality within each The photographs on the following pages show a individual room. few of the hundreds of ways you might use walls Through creative design and a thoughtful selection and ceilings as important design features in your of colors , textures , and materials, nearly any wall home . As you gather ideas , keep in mind that and ceiling design you dream up can become a good design doesn’t have to be complicated or reality. From basic painted wallboard and tradi- expensive- a little can go a long way. The key to tional wood paneling to elegant glass block and creating truly attractive walls and ceilings is sim- distinct veneer plaster finishes , there is an ever- ple: if you like it, it ‘s good design .
Ordinary stock moldings give plain walls a sense of depth and dimension when they are applied in a thoughtful manner, as with the faux wainscot panels seen here (right).
Wall shape and the type of sur- face materials used in the walls and ce ilings contribute to excel- lent sound reproduction in this home theater.
(Top photo) A raised panel ceiling with fluting painted in complemen- tary tones unifies this combined kitchen and social space.
A striking lavender wainscot treatment in this bathroom cre- ates a cottage mood.
(Right) Rounded walls and a lay- ered ceiling structure combine to form a tru ly unique entryway.
7
Tongue-and-groove planks , natu-
rally finished , instill a warm , homey
atmosphere in this attic , and pro-
vide contrast to the white-painted
woodwork. Built-in shelves and bed
make great use of limited space. A
floral wallpaper used on the gable
wall create a cottage mood.
i1 -
Archways are elegant. From a
modest curve at the top of a pas-
sage door to soaring masses of
curvilinear wall supported by clas-
sic columns, an archway conveys
timeless elegance in practically
any setting. And with today's kits
and preformed urethane millwork,
you don't need to be Leonardo da
Vinci to design and build an arch.8
An alcove built into a wall can provide a spot to display artwork. In this example, a piece of Eastern religious art is framed by architec- tural columns for additional emphasis.
Wood planks aren ‘t just for floors. Here, white planks con trast with darker ceiling beams to create drama in the kitchen.
9A simple raised-panel ceiling can be created simply by arranging wood trim mo ldings in squares on a flat ceil ing. The wall containing the fireplace is finished with pan- eled wood painted white for drama.
(Right) Light-colored woods used in ceiling beams, paneling, and edge trim contrast with white walls to create a modern-Scandi- navian interior style .
10
(below) Bare walls can be beautiful. In this unusual & treatment, walls stripped of wallpaper reveal an old plaster surface that is reminiscent of a castle or medieval monastery.
Curved walls can be used in all
sorts of ways in today's remodel-
ing . Here, a scalloped partition
wall creates room boundaries
while at the same time uniting ad-
joining spaces. A popular decor
trend is to paint or finish walls with
different colors or textu res for con-
trast and drama.
Wall texture sets moods and es-
tablishes setting. The stucco-like
textu re of the wall covering seen
here (left) creates an expansive
transi tion between these rooms
and puts forth an attitude of well-
anchored security. And this finish
can be accomplished on a wall
wi th any internal stru cture, includ-
ing a 2 x 4 stud wall covered in
wallboard.
11
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.. ” - - .. … ’,,..- …~ ”’:..;:.. : .- ’:, -”.-
Building Basic Walls & Ceilings Basic House Fram ing 14
Bu ilding Partition Walls … … … … … ... 18
Framing Soffits & Chases … . … 25
Framing with Steel … . … . … 28
Covering Foundation Walls … . .. ’” . … . … 32
Framing Curved Walls … … … 36
Bu ilding Glass Block Walls … … … … ..... 38
Installing Fiberglass Insulation … … … … .. 42
Soundproofing Walls & Ceilings .. … … … 44
Soundproofing Home Theaters … … . ..... 48
Installing Wall Membranes … 50
13Basic House Framing Finishing walls and ceilings often requires fas- tening panel materials to your home ‘s structural framing. A basic understanding of this framing will help you to properly plan and prepare for your wall and ceiling finishing projects. The basic structure of a house is made up of four systems that work together to form a solid struc- ture: the roof, the walls, the floors, and the foun- dation. Most houses are built using one of two framing styles-platform framing (left , below) or balloon framing (opposite page). Knowing your house’s framing style makes it easier to locate framing members and anticipate blocking needs for panel materials. If changes to the structural framing are necessary, such as replacement of severely bowed or twisted studs, the framing style also determines what kind of temporary supports you will need to install and can affect the complexity of a project. If you have trouble determining what type of framing was used in your house, refer to the original blueprints, if you have them, or consult a building contractor or licensed home inspector.
Platform Framing
SubfloorPlatform framing (left and above) is identified by the floor-level sole plates and ceiling-level top plates to which the wal l studs are attached. Most houses built after 1930 use platform framing . If you do not have access to unfinished areas , you can remove the wal l surface at the bottom of a wall to determine what kind of framing was used in your home.
There are two types of walls: load-bearing and partition (non-load-bearing). Load-bearing walls carry the weight of the house and require tempo- rary support if alterations to the framing is re- quired. Partition walls simply divide the space within the hou se to create rooms. They do not re- quire temporary supports. The on-center (O.C.) spacing of framing mem- bers determines the thickness of panel materials and size of fasteners you can use, as well as the fa stening pattern . (Typically, the greater the O.C. spacing, the greater the panel thickness.) Mod- ern build ing codes stipulate standard O.C. spacing for wall studs at 16-in . or 24-in., and for floor joists at 12-in., 16-in. or 24-in. When plan- ning the layout of panel materials, make sure all joints between panels fallon the center of fram- ing members. Install additional blocking where necessary to support panel ends. Comp lete any changes or additions to your home’s framing prior to covering the studs and joists.
Balloon Framing
Balloon framing (right and above) is identified by wall studs that run uninterrupted from the roof to a sill plate on the foundation, without the sole plates and top plates found in platform-framed walls (page op- posite). Balloon framing was used in houses built be- fore 1930.
Flooring and Ceiling Framing
Joists
Support
beam
run
Corne throug
1 X4
stud floors
Blocking ribbo
Subfloor shpwn set in 0
cutaway for clarity studsJoists carry the structural load of floors and ceilings. The ends of the Floor joists in balloon-frame joists rest on support beams, foundations , or load-bearing walls ; joists al- houses are nailed to the sides of ways run perpendicular to their supports. Floor joists typically are 2 x 10 continuous wall studs. Upper-story or larger lumber. Ceiling joists, which support only a ceiling finish and joists gain additional support from sometimes limited storage space , may be 2 x 4 or larger. Blocking or X- 1 x 4 ribbons notched into the bridging is often installed between joists to provide additional support. studs . Solid blocking between the joists provides fire protection.
Roof Framing
Rafters, typically made from 2 x 6 or larger lumber, Trusses, prefabricated frames made from 2 x lumber span from the exterior walls to the ridge board (or joined with metal plates or fasteners , are found in beam) at the peak of the roof. In most rafter-frame many houses built after 1950. Standard trusses con- roofs , the ceiling joists link the ends of opposing tain bottom and top cords and interconnecting webs rafters to create a structural triangle; the frame may that provide rigidity. Trusses rely on the sum of their also have rafter ties or collar ties for additional sup- parts for support and cannot be cut or altered . port (see page 153). Rafters are usually spaced 16” or 24” apart.
16
Wall Framing
Ceiling (or floor) joists
Wall studsCutaway view Cutaway view
Load-bearing walls carry the structural weight of Non-load-bearing, or partition, walls are interior your home. In platform-frame houses, load-bearing wal ls that do not carry the structural weight of the wa ll s can be identified by doub le top plates made house. They have a single top plate and can be per- from two layers of framing lumber. Load-bearing pendicular to floor and ceiling joists but are not walls include all exterior walls and any interior walls aligned above support beams. Any interior wall that that are al igned above support beams. is parallel to floor and ceiling joists is a partition wall.
Door and window frames , called rough openings, are use oversized headers , which eliminate the need for sized according to the dimensions of the door or win- cripples. Frames in non-load-bearing walls may have dow unit. In load-bearing walls, the weight from above only a single 2 x 4 for a header. Each end of the the opening is borne by the cripple studs, which are header is supported by a jack stud that extends to the supported by a header that spans the opening . A typical bottom plate and is nailed to a king stud for support. A header is made wi th two pieces of 2 x lumber sand- window frame has a si ll that defines the bottom of the wiched around a layer of \02” plywood; some builders opening.
17
Building Partition Walls
Partition walls are non-load -bearing walls typi-
cally built with 2 x 4 lumber, but they can also
be built with 3%" steel studs (pages 28 to 31).
Walls holding plumbing pipes can be framed
with 2 x 6 lumber. On a concrete floor, use pres-
sure-treated lum ber for the bottom plates.
This project involves bu ilding a wall in p lace,
rather than framing a complete wall on the floor
and tilting it upright, as in new construction. The
build -in -place method allows for variations in
floor and ceiling levels and is generally much
easier for remodeling projects.
If your wall will include a door or other opening,
see pages 22 to 23. Check the local bu ilding
codes for requirements about fireblocking in
partition walls. And after your walls are framed
and the mechanical rough -ins are completed,
install metal protector plates where pipes and
wires run through framing members.
Everything You Need
Tools: Protective eyewear, chalk line, circular
saw, frami ng square, plumb bob, pOWder-actu-
ated nailer, T-bevel.A typical partition wall consists of top and bottom Materials: 2 x 4 lumber, blocking lumber, 16d plates and 2 x 4 studs spaced 16” on- center. Use and 8d common nails, concrete fasteners, wall- 2 x 6 lumber for walls that will hold large plumbing board screws. pipes (inset).
Variations for Fastening Top Plates to Joists
When a new wall is perpendicular to the ceiling or When a new wall falls between parallel joists, in- floor joists above, attach the top plate directly to the stal l 2 x 4 blocking between the joists every 24”. If the joists, using 16d nails. new wa ll is aligned with a parallel joist, insta ll blocks on both sides of the wall, and attach the top plate to the joist (inset) .
18
Variations for Fastening Bottom Plates to Joists
Bottom
Bottom Bottom
plate
plate plate
JoistIf a new wall is aligned with a joist below, install the If a new wall falls between parallel joists, install 2 x 6 bottom plate directly over the joist or off-center over or larger blocking between the two joists below, spaced the joist (inset). Off-center placement allows you to 24” on center. Nail the bottom plate through the sub- nail into the jo ist but provides room underneath the floor and into the blocking. plate for pipes or wiring to go up into the wall.
How to Build a Partition Wall
1 Mark the location of the leading edge of the new wall ‘s top plate , then snap a chalk line through the marks across the joists or blocks . Use a framing 2 Set the plates together with the ir ends flush. Mea- su re from the end of one plate, and make marks for the location of each stud. The first stud shou ld fa ll square, or take measurements , to make sure the line 15%” from the end; every stud thereafter should fall is perpendicu lar to any intersecting walls. Cut the top 16” on center. Thus , the first 4 x 8-ft. wallboard panel and bottom plates to length. will cover the first stud and “break” in the center of the fou rth stud. Use a square to extend the marks across both p lates. Draw an X at each stud location. (continued next page)
19How to Build a Partition Wall (contin ued) - -…,
Position the top plate against the joists, aligning To pos ition the bottom plate , hang a plumb bob3 its leading edge with the cha lk line . Attach the plate with two 16d na ils driven into each joist. Start at 4 from the side edge of the top plate so the point nearly touches the floor. When it hangs motionless , one end , and adjust the plate as you go to keep the mark the point’s location on the floor. Make plumb leading edge flush with the chalk line. markings at each end of the top p late, then snap a cha lk line between the marks . Position the bottom plate along the chalk line, and use the plumb bob to align the stud markings between the two plates .
Fasten the bottom plate to the Measure between the plates Install the studs by toenailing5 floor. On concrete, use a powder-actuated nailer or masonry 6 for the length of each stud. Cut each stud so it fits snugly in place 7 them at a 60 0 angle th rough the sides of the studs and into the screws, driving a pin or screw every but is not so tight that it bows the p lates. At each end, drive two 8d 16”. On wood floors, use 16d nai ls joists above . If you cut a stud too nails through one side of the stud driven into the joists below. short, see if it will fit somewhere and one more through the center else down the wall. on the other side.
20
How to Frame Corners (shown in cutaways)
L-corners: Nail 2 x 4 spacers (A) T-corner meets stud: Fasten 2 x 2 T-corner between studs: Fasten to the inside of the end stud. Nail backers (A) to each side of the a 1 x 6 backer (A) to the end stud an extra stud (8) to the spacers . side-wall stud (8) . The backers (8) with wal lboard screws . The The extra stud provides a surface provide a nai ling surface for wal l- backer provides a nailing surface to attach wal lboard at the inside board. for wallboard . corner.
How to Frame an Angled Partition Wall in an Attic
Rafter-Full-size attic partition walls typical ly run parallel to again to transfer the stud layout marks from the bot- the rafters and have sloping top plates that extend tom to the top plate. To find the proper angle for cut- down to knee walls on either side. To build one, cut ting the top ends of the studs , set a level against the the top and bottom plates , and mark the stud loca- top plate (or rafter) and hold it plumb. Then, rest the tions on the bottom plate only. Nail the top plates in handle of a T-bevel against the level, and adjust the place , and use a plumb bob to position the bottom T-bevel blade to follow the plate. Transfer the angle to plate , as with a standard wal l. Use the plumb bob the stud ends, and cut them to length.
21
Door frames for prehung doors
(left) start with king studs that at-
tach to the top and bottom plates.
Inside the king studs , jack studs
support the header at the top of
the opening. Cripple studs con-
tinue the wall-stud layout above
the opening. In non-load-bearing
walls , the header may be a 2 x 4
laid flat or a built-up header (be-
low) . The dimensions of the
framed opening are referred to as
the rough opening.To mark the layout for the door frame, measure the width of the door After you’ve installed the wall 1 unit along the bottom. Add 1” to this dimension to determine the width of the rough opening (the distance between the jack studs). This gives 2 plates (see page 20) , cut the king studs and toenail them in you a -2” gap on each side for adjusting the door frame during installa- place at the appropriate markings. tion . Mark the top and bottom plates for the jack and king studs.
22
•
Measure the full length of the door unit, then add Cut and install a cripple stud above the header,3W to determine the height of the rough opening. Using that dimension, measure up from the floor and 4 centered between the king studs. Instal l any addi- tional cripples required to maintain the 16’ on- mark the king studs . Cut a 2 x 4 header to fit between center layout of the standard studs in the rest of the king studs. Position the header flat, with its bottom the wall. face at the marks, and secure it to the king studs with 16d nails.
Cut the jack studs to fit snugly under the header. Saw through the bottom plate so it’s flush with the 5 Fasten them in place by nailing down through the header , then drive 10d nai ls through the faces of the 6 inside faces of the jack studs. Remove the cut-out portion of the plate. NOTE: If you’re finishing the wall jack studs and into the king studs, spaced 16” apart. with drywall, hang the door after the drywall is in- stalled.
23
How to Install Archways
in Wall Openings
Arches add a touch of elegance to doorways,
windows , and other wall openings. A number of
preformed arches are currently available on the
market, turning a once specialized and labor-in-
tensive building technique into an easy, do-it-
yourself project.
Preformed arches are fabricated from various
materials , in a variety of styles, for a number of
applications. Steel track arches are ideal for new
framing, while wallboard forms are great for cre-
ating archways in remodels . Forms are also
available for applications involving plaster. You
can find forms to accommodate just about any
arch radius , from a perfect half-circle at a door-
way to a subtle elliptical arc for a kitchen pass-
through. You can even use a series of preformed
arches to create a barrel-arch ceiling in a hallway
or entryway.
Whether made from metal track or wallboard , the
installation of most preformed arches is the same:
Frame the opening as you normally would, then
center the form in the opening and fasten it to the
framing with wallboard screws. Some products
require additional blocking and others are in-
stalled after the wallboard is hung. Once installed,
preformed arches are finished using traditionalPreformed wallboard arches are typically installed wallboard techniques. after wallboard is in place. One-piece forms create an unbroken arch , while two-piece forms can be used to Although installing a preformed arch is simple, round-off corners . Joints are finished with wallboard always follow the manufacturer ‘s instructions for tape and joint compound (see pages 106 to 115). the product you choose.
Steel track arches are installed during wall construc- Corner forms are installed in the top corners of a tion to create a variety of archways and barrel-arched wall opening to create an arch . Some (left) are affixed ceilings . To finish steel track arches with wallboard, into the corner and fit flush with the walls ; others follow the curved walls techniques on page 88. (right) snap over the walls and are screwed to the door jambs. Cover with joint compound and paint.
24
Recessed
lighting
fixtureHide immovable obstructions in a soffit built from dimension lumber or stee l and covered with drywall or other finish material. An extra-wide soffit is also a great place to install recessed lighting fixtures.
Framing Soffits &Chases
Unfinished basements and other areas often The following pages show you some basic tech- contain elements like beams, pipes, and duct- niques for bu ilding soffits and chases , but the work, that may be vital to your house but become design of your framing is up to you. For exam- big obstacles to finishing the space. When you ple, you may want to shape your soffits for a can’t conceal the obstructions within walls, and decorative effect or bu ild an oversized chase you’ve determined it’s too costly to move them , that holds bookshelves. Just make sure the hide them inside a framed soffit or chase . This framing conforms to local building codes. can also provide a place to run smaller mechan- There may be code restrictions about the types icals, like wiring and water supply lines. of mechanicals that can be grouped together, You can frame a soffit with a variety of materials. as well as minimum clearances between the 2 x 2 lumber and 15;8” steel studs both work framing and what it encloses. Most codes also well , because they’re small and lightweight specify that soffits, chases , and other framed (though steel is usually easier to work with be- structures have fireblocking every 10ft. and at cause it’s always straight). For large soffits that the intersections between soffits and neighbor- will house lighting fixtures or other elements, ing walls. Remember, too , that drain cleanouts you might want the strength of 2 x 4s or 3%” and shutoff valves must be accessible , so you’ll steel studs. Chases should be framed with need to install access panels at these locations. 2 x 4s or 3%” steel studs, so they’re as rigid as walls.
25Variations for Building Soffits 2 x 2 soffit : Build two ladder-like frames for the soffit sides, using standard 2 x 2s. Install braces every 16’ or 24’ to provide nailing support for the edges of the dry- wall. Attach the side frames to the joists on either side of the obstruc- tion, using nails or screws. Then, install cross pieces beneath the obstacle, tying the two sides together .
Cross pieces
Simple steel-frame soffit: With
'1.2' drywall, this construc tion
works for soffits up to 16' wide;
with %' drywall, up to 24' wide.
Use 1%', 2'k', or 3%' steel studs
and tracks (see pages 28 to 31).
Fasten a track to the ceiling and a
stud to the adjoining wall, using
drywall screws. Cut a strip of dry-
wall to form the side of the soffit,
and attach a steel stud flush with
the bottom edge of the strip, using
type S screws. Attach the assem-
bly to the ceiling track, then cut
and install drywall panels to form
W'or %" the soffit bottom.
drywall
Steel-frame soffit with braces:
Steel Use 1%' , 2'k', or 3%' steel studs
and tracks. Fasten a track to the
ceiling and wall with drywall
screws. Cut studs to form the side
and bottom of the soffit, fasten
them to the tracks every 16' or 24'
on-center, using type Span-head
screws, then join the pieces with
metal angle (you can use a steel
track cut in half lengthwise). Use a
string line and locki ng clamps to
help keep the frame straight and
square during construction.26
How to Frame a Chase Making Access Panels
Make access panels after installing drywall. In a hor-
izontal surface , cut out a square piece of drywall at
the access location, and set it inside the soffit. Glue
mitered trim around the opening so it overhangs the
edges by W. Rest the cutout on the trim overhang to
cover the opening . In a vertical surface, glue the trim
to the cutout to create the pane l. Install plywood
strips to the back of the drywall at two sides of the
opening. Secure the panel to the strips with screws.
Attaching Framing to Steel Members
Steel beam
Joists
Minimum 2 X8
fastening top plate
distance:
1W' from
edge
Support columnBu ild chases with 2 x 4s or 3%” steel framing . Use SHOWN steel or pressure-treated lumber for bottom plates on CUTAWAY concrete floors , attaching them with construction ad- hesive and powder-actuated nailer fasteners (see Use a powder-actuated nailer (see page 20) to at- page 20). Add top plates , then install studs to form tach wood and steel framing to steel I-beams and the corners of the chase. If desired, block in between columns. Hold the nailer at a right angle to the sur- the studs for stability. To make the chase smaller , face and drive the fastener at least 1W from the edge notch the top and bottom plates around the obstruc- of the steel. Use a fastener and power load appropri- tion, and install the studs flat. If you ‘re framing around ate to the tool and each application . The tool manu- a vertical drain pipe (especially the main DWV stack), facturer should supply a manual, fastener charts , leave room around the pipe for soundproofing insula- and load charts with the tool. Always wear eye and tion ; plastic pipes can be especially noisy . ear protection when working with these tools.
27
Framing with Steel
Steel framing is quickly becoming a popular alter-
native to wood in residential construction due to
the rising cost of wood and the advantages that
steel offers. Steel framing is fireproof, insect proof,
highly rot-resistant, and lightweight. But the most
significant advantage is that steel, unlike lumber,
is always perfectly uniform and straight.
Steel studs and tracks (or plates) are commonly
availab le at home centers and lumberyards in
nominal widths comparable to their wooden
counterparts: 1%' (2 x 2). 21,,2' (2 x 3). 3%' (2 x 4).
and 5 W (2 x 6). 25-gauge (or 18-mil) and 20-
gauge (or 33-mil) steel framing is su itable for
most non-load -bearing partition walls and soffits
that will be covered with wallboard. but 20-gauge
results in a somewhat sturdier wall. Use 20-gauge
studs for walls that wi ll receive cementboard.
With a few exceptions, the layout and framing
methods used for a steel-frame partition wall areSteel framing , when coupled with wallboard, creates a the same as those used for a wood-frame wall. rigid wall system as solid and strong as wood-framed For more information on framing partition walls. walls. Steel track is used to create plates , headers see pages 18 to 21; for help with framing soffits, and sills. Steel studs are installed so the open side see pages 25 to 26. faces in the same direction, except at door, window or other openings. The knockouts in studs are for Here are a few tips for working with steel: running utility lines through the framing. • Steel framing is fastened together with screws. not nails. Attach steel tracks to existing wood framing using long drywall screws. • Even pressure and slow drill speed make it easy to start screws. Drive the screws down tight. but be careful not to stri p the steel. Don’t use drill-point screws with 25-gauge steel. which can strip easily. • Most steel studs have punch-outs for running plumbing and electrical lines through the fram- ing. Cut the studs to length from the same end. to keep the punch-outs lined up. • The hand -cut edges of steel framing are very sharp; wear heavy gloves when handling them. • To provide support for electrical receptacle boxes. use boxes with spec ial brac ing for steel studs, or fasten boxes to wood framing installed between the studs. Steel studs and tracks have the same basic struc- • Use 16”-wide batts for insulating between ture-a web that spans two flanges sides- however, stee l studs . The added width al lows for a friction studs also contain a %’ lip to improve their rigidity. fit, whereas standard batts would slide down.
28
Tools & Materials for Framing with Steel
Steel framing requires a few specialty tools and ma- Protective eyewear and heavy work gloves (F, G) are terials . Aviation sn ips (A) are needed to cut tracks and necess ities when working with the sharp edges of studs , though a miter saw outfitted with a steel-cutting hand-cut stee l framing. Use self-tapping screws (in- abrasive blade (8) can speed up the process. A drill or set) to fasten steel components. To install wood trim, screwgun (C) is required for fastening framing. Handy use type S trim-head sc rews (H); to fasten wallboard , for large projects, a stud crimper (D) creates mechani- type S wallboard screws (I); and to fasten studs and cal joints between tracks and studs. Plastic grommets tracks together, 7/16” type S pan-head screws (J). (E) are placed in knockouts to help protect util ity lines.
Tips for Framing with Steel
When running metal plumbing pipe and electrical Frame door openings 3” wider and 1’k ” taller than cable through stee l studs, use plastic grommets at normal, then wrap the insides with 2 x 4s to provide a knockouts to prevent galvanic action and electrifica- nailing surface for hanging the door and installing the tion of the wall. Install wood blocking between studs casing . for hanging decorative accessories or wainscoting.
29How to Frame a Steel Partition Wall
Mark the wall location on the floor or ceiling, fol- Fasten the bottom track to the floor. For wood1 lowing the same procedure used for a wood- frame wall. Cut the top and bottom tracks to length 2 floors , use 2” coarse-thread drywall screws. For concrete floors, pin the track down with a powder-ac- with aviation snips . Cut through the side flanges first, tuated nailer (see page 20) , or use 1%” masonry then bend the waste piece back and cut across the screw. Drill pilot holes for screws using a masonry bit. web. Use a marker to layout the tracks with 16” on- Drive a fastener at each end of the track, then every center spacing (see page 19). 24” in between.
Plumb up from the bottom At the first stud location, mea- Clamp the stud flange to the3 track with a plumb bob to posi- tion the top track. Fasten the to£ 4 sure between the tracks and cut a stud to length. Insert the stud 5 track with C-clamp pliers and drive a 7/16” type Span-head track to the ceiling joists with 1 Xl” into the tracks at a slight angle screw through the tracks into the drywall screws. Drive two screws and twist into place. NOTE: Cut all stud. Drive one screw on each at each joist location. subsequent studs from the same side, at both ends of the stud. In- end so the knockouts align . stall remaining studs so the open sides face the same direction (ex- cept at door-frame studs).
30
To install a door header, cut track 8" longer than To provide running blocking for cabinets , wain-6 the opening. Measure in 4’ at each end, cut the flanges at an angle toward the mark, then bend down 7 scoting, or other fixtures , snap a chalkline across the face of the studs at the desired height, hold a the ends at 90”. Fasten the header in place with three track leve l at the line, then notch the flanges of the screws at each stud-two through the fastening tab track to bypass the studs. Fasten the track in place and one through the overlapping flange. with two screws at each stud location.
Slip stud
-.......
•Build corners using a slip stud : A slip stud is not fastened until the ad- Join sections with a spliced joint jacent drywall is in place. Form L-shaped corners (A) by overlapping the (A) or notched joint (8) . Make a tracks. Cut off the flange on one side of one track, removing enough to sp liced joint by cutting a 2’ slit in allow room for the overlapp ing track and drywall. Form a T-shaped cor- the web of one track . Slip the other ner (8) by leaving a gap between the tracks for the drywall. Secure each track into the slit and secu re with a slip stud by screwing through the stud into the tracks of the adjacent screw. For a notched joint cut wall . Also screw through the back side of the drywall into the slip stud , if back the flanges of one track and possible . Where there ‘s no backing behind the slip stud, drive screws at taper the web so it fits into the other a 45° angle through the back corners of the slip stud and into the drywall. track; secure with a screw.
31
~ Masonry .waterproofer
. ~ Plastic mois~lI*'tIlIrrier
/ Rigid foam insulation
Furring
strip
/ Plastic vapor barrierLocal building codes may require a barrier to prevent moisture from damaging wood and insulation covering foundation walls. This may be masonry waterproofer, or plastic sheeting placed behind or in front of the framing.
Covering Foundation Walls There are two common methods for covering ing foundation walls against moisture. Common foundation walls. Because it saves space , the types of moisture barriers include masonry wa- more popular method is to attach 2 x 2 furring terproofers that are applied like paint, and plas- strips directly to the masonry wall. These strips tic sheeting installed between masonry walls provide a 11,.2’ -deep cavity between strips for in- and wood framing. The local building code will sulation and service lines, as well as a frame- also specify whether you need a vapor barrier work for attaching drywall. The other method is between the framing and the drywall. to build a complete 2 x 4 stud wall or steel-frame Before you shop for materials, decide how you ‘ll wall just in front of the foundation wall. This fasten the framing to your foundation walls and method offers a full 31,.2” for insulation and lines, floor. If you’re covering a large wall area, it will and it provides a flat, plumb wall surface, re- be worth it to buy or rent a powder-actuated gardless of the foundation wall’s condition. nailer for the job. To determine the best method for your project, examine the foundation walls. If they’re fairly plumb and flat, you can consider furring them. If the walls are wavy or out of plumb, however, it Everything You Need may be easier to build stud walls. Also check with the local building department before you decide Tools : Circular saw, drill, powder-actuated on a framing method. There may be codes re- nailer, plumb bob. garding insulation minimums and methods of run- Materials: 2 x 2 and 2 x 4 lumber, 2)2” drywall ning service lines along foundation walls. screws, construction adhesive, concrete fas- A local building official can also tel l you what’s teners, insulation. recommended, or required, in your area for seal -
32
Options for Attaching Wood to Masonry
WebsPowder-actuated nailers fasten Masonry nails are the cheapest Self-tapping masonry screws framing to block , poured concrete, way to attach wood to concrete ho ld well in block or poured con- and steel. They use gunpowder block walls. Drive the nails into the crete, but they must be driven into caps (loads) to drive hardened- mortar joints for max imum hold ing predrilled holes. Use a hammer steel nails (pins). Trigger types power and to avoid cracking the drill to dri ll holes of the same size (shown) and hammer types are blocks . Drill pilot holes through the in both the wood and the con- available for sa le or rental. NOTE: strips if the nails cause splitting. crete, afte r the wood is positioned. With block, drive pins into the so lid Masonry nails are difficult to drive Drive the screws into the block webs , not into the voids. into poured concrete. webs, not into the voids.
How to Install Furring Strips on Masonry Walls
Sill plate Top plateCut a 2 x 2 top plate to span the length of the wall. Variation : If the joists run parallel to the wall , install 1 Mark the furring strip layout onto the bottom edge of the plate, using 16’ -on-center spacing. Attach the backers between the outer joist and the si ll plate to provide support for cei ling drywal l. Make T-shaped plate to the bottom of the joists wi th 21;2” drywall backers from short 2 x 4s and 2 x 2s . Install each so screws. The back edge of the plate should line up the bottom face of the 2 x 4 is flush with the bottoms with the front of the blocks. of the joists. Attach the top plate to the foundation wall with its top edge flush with the tops of the blocks. (continued next page)
33How to Install Furring Strips on Masonry Walls (continued) ""’;""---..
Install the bottom plate cut from pressure-treated2 2 x 2 lumber. Apply construction adhesive to the back and bottom of the plate, then attach it to the 3 Cut 2 x 2 furring strips to fit between the top and bottom plates . Apply construction adhesive to the back of each strip, and position it on the layout marks floor with a nailer or masonry screws . Use a plumb on the plates. Fasten along the length of each strip bob to transfer the furring-strip layout marks from the every 16”. top plate to the bottom plate.
Variation : Install shorter strips to leave a 2”-wide Fill the cavities between furring strips with rigid in- channel for adding wires or supply pipes. NOTE: Con- su lt local codes to ensure proper installation of elec- 4 sulation board. Cut the pieces so they fit snugly within the framing. If necessary, make cutouts in the trical or plumbing materials. insulation to fit around service lines, and cover any channels with metal protector plates before closing up the wall.
34
I
Stud
wall
Block
W' Air wall
space
InsulationPressure-treated bottom plate-___
II I I IIBuild a standard partition wall with 2 x 4s or 35Al” and avoid unevenness in foundation walls, leave a ‘h” steel framing , following the basic steps on pages 18 to air space between the stud wall and masonry wall (in- 21 (see pages 28 to 31 for help with steel framing). set). Insulate the stud wall with fiberg lass blankets , Use pressure-treated lumber for wood bottom plates and install a vapor barrier and fireblocking if required that rest on concrete . To minimize moisture problems by local code .
StudsFrame around a basement window so the framing Build a short stud wall to cover a low foundation is flush with the edges of the masonry on all sides. wall in a walkout or “daylight” basement. Install the Install a sill at the base of the window opening , and top plate flush with the top of the foundation wall. add a header, if necessary. Fill the space between Cover the wall with drywall or other finish, then cap it the framing members and the masonry with fiberglass with finish-grade lumber or plywood to create a deco- insulation or non-expand ing foam insulation. Install rative shelf. drywall so it butts against the window frame.
35
Framing Curved Walls
Curved walls have obvious appeal and are sur-
prisingly easy to build . Structurally, a curved wall
is very sim ilar to a standard non-load -bearing
partition wall, with two key differences: the stud
spacing , and the materials used for the top and
bottom wall plates.
Traditionally, plates for curved walls were cut from
3/4" plywood- a somewhat time-consuming and
wasteful process- but now a flexible track prod-
uct, made of light-gauge steel, has made the
construction much easier (see page 234 for sup-
plier information). Using the steel track , frame
the wall based on a layout drawn onto the floor.
Shape the track to follow the layout, screw to-
gether the track pieces to lock-in the shape,
then add the studs.
The best stud spacing for your project depends
upon the type of finish material you plan to
use. If it's wallboard, %" flexible panels re -
quire studs spaced a maximum of 9-in.
O.C. for curves with a minimum radius of
32-in. For radii less than 32-in ., you may
have to wet the panels; contact the wall-
board manufacturer to learn the bending proper-
ties of their product. (See pages 88 to 89.) If you
will be covering the wall with plywood , space theFlexible steel track makes it easy to build walls of al- studs at 2-in. per foot of outer radius. For exam- most any shape. Tracks come in 10-ft. lengths and fit ple, a wall with a 36” outer radius should have with 2 x 4s or 3% ” steel studs. studs spaced 6” O.C. By virtue of their shape, curved walls provide some of their own stability, so that half-walls with pronounced curves may not need additional support if they’re secured at one end. If your wall needs additional support , look for ways to tie it into the existing framing, or install cabinets or other permanent fixtures for stability. If you are planning a curved wall of full height, use a plumb bob to transfer the layout of the bottom track to ceiling for the layout of the top track. Check the alignment of using a few studs at the ends and middle, then fasten the top track to the ce iling joists with wallboard screws.
As a substitute for flexible track , use standard 20- or 25-gauge steel track. Along the curved portion Everything You Need of the wall, cut the web and flange along the outside Tools: Framing square, chalk line, marker, avia- of the curve at 2” intervals. From the web of a scrap tion snips, drill, 2-ft. level. piece, cut a 1’-wide strip that runs the length of the curve , plus 8”. Bend the track to fol low the curve , Materials: Flexible metal track, masking tape, then screw the strip to the inside of the outer flange, 7/16” Type S pan-head screws, 2 x 4 lumber, using 7/16” type S screws. This construction requires 1W coarse-thread drywall screws. 12” of straight (uncut) track at both ends of the curve .
36
How to Frame a Curved Half-wall
Chalk lines
/Radius
Existing w a l l /
Centerpoint ----..:>l
Draw the wall layout. Mark straight portions with parallel chalk lines Position the track along the lay-1 representing the outside edges of the wall track. Use a framing square to make sure the lines are perpendicu lar to the adjoining wall. At 2 out lines , fo llowing the curve exactly. Mark the end of the wall the start of the curve , square off from the chalk line and measure out the onto the track, using a marker, distance of the radius to mark the curve’s centerpoint. For small curves then cut the track to length with (4 ft., or so) , drive a nail at the centerpoint, hook the end of a tape mea- aviation snips. Cut the top track to sure on the nail , and draw the curve using the tape and a pencil as a the same length. compass; for larger curves , use a straight board nailed at the centerpoint.
Reposition the bottom track on Fasten the bottom track to the Fit the top track over the studs3 the layout, then apply masking tape along the outside flanges. 4 floor, using 1’14” drywall screws. Mark the stud layout onto 5 and align them with the layout marks. Fasten the studs to the top Secure the track by driving a type both tracks. Cut the studs to track with one screw on each side, S screw through each flange and length. Install the studs one at a checking the wall for level and into the strap. Screw both sides of time, using a level to plumb each height as you work. Set the level the track. Turn over the bottom along its narrow edge , then driving on top of the track, both parallel track , then set the top track on top a 11;4” screw through the flange or and perpendicular to the track , and match its shape . Tape and strap and into the stud on both before fastening each stud. screw the top track. sides.
37
Building Glass Block Walls
With its ability to transmit light, a glass block
partition wall defines separate living areas while
maintaining a sense of openness. You can find
glass block at specialty distributors and home
centers in a variety of patterns, shapes, and
sizes, along with all the products needed for the
installation.
You can build your wall to any height. Top a low
wall with a course of bullnose blocks to give it a
finished rounded edge, or with flat block to cre-
ate a shelf. To build a full -height wall, calculate
the number of courses of block you'll have, then
frame -in a header to fill the remaining space be-
tween the finished block and the ceiling .
Follow these tips for a successful installation:
When laying out your wall, keep in mind that
glass block cannot be cut , so measure carefully.
Lay-up the wall using plastic spacers set be-
tween the blocks. These ensure consistent mor-
tar joints, and they support the weight of the
block to prevent the mortar from squeezing out
before it sets. Use prem ixed glass block mortar,
available in dry-mix bags , in white and mortar-
gray. When mixing the mortar, follow the manu-
ExpanSion facturer's directions carefully to achieve the ideal
strip working conSistency.
/ Because of its weight, a glass block wall re-
quires a sturdy foundation. A 4"-thick concrete
Panel anchor basement floor should be strong enough , but a
wood floor may need to be reinforced. Contact
the local build ing department for requirements inGlass your area. Also bear in mind that glass block block ______ products and installation techniques vary by manufacturer- ask a glass block retailer or man- ufacturer for advice about the best products and Mortar--- methods for your project.
/T-spacer Everything You Need Emulsion Tools Chalk line, circular saw, jig saw, paint- brush, drill, mixing box, trowel, level, pliers, Sill— jointing tool, nylon- or natural-bristle brUSh, sponge. The block wall in this project Materials: 2 x 6 lumber, 16d common nails, has a sill made of two 2 x 6s cut water-based asphalt emulsion, panel anchors, to the exact width of the block. This 2)2” drywall screws , foam expansion strips , provides a stable base to help resist floor glass block mortar, 8” glass blocks, 14” T- movement and protect the lower courses. The block spacers, board, reinforcement wire , 16-gauge wall is secured to an anchor stud in an adjoining wire , caulk or wall trim , baseboard. wall, by means of metal panel anchors. Expansion strips between the two walls allow for movement.
38
How to Build a Glass Block Wall
Sister joists .Tip: If necessary, reinforce the floor joists nearest the Dry-lay the first course of glass block, using a 3,jJ” new wall by installing sister joists and blocking that are the same size as the existing joists. If the new 1 %’ and wood spacer between the wall and the first block, spacers between the remaining blocks , to set wa ll is not aligned with an existing wall stud, add an the gaps for the mortar joints. Mark the wall position anchor stud centered at the new wall location. You onto the floor, then remove the blocks. Snap chalk can install the sill directly over the subfloor or over a lines along the marks to create the sill outline. suitab le floorcovering .
"-
Determine the sill thickness based on the size of Mark plumb lines on the adjoining wall, straight up2 your baseboard and thickness of the floorcover- ing. Rip 2 x 6 lumber to the width of the block. If the 3 from sides of the sill. Mark the finished height of each course along the lines. Fasten a panel anchor end blocks are shaped, trim the sill pieces to match, to the anchor stud at the top of every second course , using a jig saw. Fasten the sill to the subfloor and using 2W drywall screws. Cut expansion strips to framing below with 16d common nails. Apply asphalt size and adhere them to the wall between the an- emulsion to the sill, using a paintbrush. chors. (continued next page)
39How to Build a Glass Block Wall (continued)
, J
Mix only as much mortar as you can apply in Lay the remainder of the course . If the wall has a4the about 30 minutes . Lay a 3,t”-thick mortar bed on si ll , enou?h for three or four blocks. Set the first 5 corner , work from both ends toward the center , and install the corner piece last. Use Y4’ T-spacers block, using Y4” T-spacers at the mortar joint locations between blocks to maintain proper spacing. Plumb (follow the manufacturer’s directions for modifying and level each block as you work, then check the en- T-spacers at the bottom and sides of the wa ll) . Do not tire course, using a flat board and a level. Tap blocks place mortar between blocks and expansion strips. into place using a rubber mallet- do not strike them Butter the trailing edge of each subsequent block with a metal tool. with enough mortar to fill the sides of both blocks.
,I
At the top of the course, fill the joints with mortar, App lya \.13' bed of mortar over the second course,6course. and then lay a bed of mortar for the second 1/4 ’ Lay the block for the second course , check- 7 then press the panel anchor into the mortar. Re- peat this process at each anchor location. ing each block for level and plumb as you work .
40
Add reinforcement wire in the same joints as the Build the wall in complete courses , checking the 8 panel anchors, overlapping the anchors by 6”. Also overlap the wire by 6’ where multiple pieces are 9 mortar after each course. When it is hard enough to resist light finger pressure (usually within 30 min- needed . At corners, cut the inner rail of the wire, utes) , twist off the T-spacer tabs (inset) and pack bend the outer rail to follow the corner, then tie the in- mortar in the voids. Then, tool all of the joints with a ner rail ends together with 16-gauge wire. Add an- jointing tool. Remove excess mortar from the glass, other l1j’ mortar bed, then lay the next course of block. using a brush or damp sponge.
Reinstall the flooring, if necessary, then cut10 Clean the glass block thoroughly, using a wet sponge and rinsing it often . Allow the surface to dry , then remove cloudy residue with a clean , dry 11 baseboard to fit around the si ll (see pages 200 to 205). If the end of your wall has curved (bullnose) cloth. After the mortar has cured for two weeks , apply block, wrap the end with three pieces of trim. a sealant. Caulk the seam between the glass block and the adjoining wall , or cover the gap with trim.
41Installing Fiberglass Insulation Before you insulate your walls, ceilings, or floors members over unfaced insulation provides a more (or even buy insulation), ask the local building effective, continuous ba rrier. If you decide to use department about two things: R-value and vapor faced insulation be aware that it comes with a few barriers. All insulation has an R-value clearly drawbacks: the paper tears easily, and facings printed on its packaging. This is the measure of make it difficult to cut around obstacles. Also , if how well the insulation keeps in the heat and you trim a batt to fit into a narrow bay, you lose keeps out the cold, and vice versa. The higher the facing flange- and thus the vapor seal- on the R-value , the better the insulation works- one side. Most facings are flammable and must and the thicker it is. The building department be covered with wallboard or another approved will tell you what R-values you need for your finish, even in unfinished areas, such as storage walls, ceilings, and floors, and whether the insu - rooms. One alternative is to use insulation with lation job must be inspected before you cover it. an approved flame -resistant foil facing. Vapor barriers come in a few different forms , but When installing insulation, make sure there are no all have a common purpose . They prevent the gaps between the insulation and framing, around water vapor present in warm indoor air from passing obstructions, or between pieces of insulation. beyond wall or ceiling surfaces and through the The idea is to create a continuous “thermal en- framing , where it would contact cold exterior sur- velope” that keeps interior air from coming into faces and condense. This condensation promotes contact with outdoor temperatures. mildew growth that can rot the framing and insu- lation. Vapor barriers are required in most climates and are typically installed on the “warm-in-winter” Everything You Need side of exterior walls and ceilings, between the Tools: Utility knife, stapler, gloves, goggles, dust insulation and the interior finish material. mask. Paper-faced, foil-faced , and encapsulated insu- Materials: Fiberglass insulation, 6-mil polyethyl- lation have their own vapor barriers, but a layer ene sheeting, staples, packing tape. of 6-mil polyethylene sheeting stapled to framing
Fiberglass insulation comes in batts cut to length for standard stud-wa ll Handling fiberglass is a lot less bays, as wel l as long rolls . Various options include : kraft-paper and foil uncomfortable when you’re dressed facings (A) , which serve as vapor barriers (some foils are flame-resistant); for it. Wear long pants, a long- plastic-encapsulated blankets (B) ; high density blankets (for rafters) (e); sleeve shirt, gloves, goggles , and and standard, unfaced rolls and batts (D) . Standard widths fit between a good-quality dust mask or respi- 16”- or 24”-on-center framing. rator . Shower as soon as you finish working.
42
H~'''nnl~,'''' InsulationNever compress insulation to fit Insulate around pipes, wires, and Use scraps of insulation to fill into a narrow space. Instead, use electrical boxes by peeling the gaps around window and door a sharp utility knife to trim the blanket in half and sliding the jambs. Fi ll the cavities loosely to blanket about 1/4” wider and longer back half behind the obstruction. avoid compressing the insu lation. than the space. To trim , hold the Then , lay the front ha lf in front of Fi ll narrow gaps with expand ing blanket in place and use a wa ll the obstruction . Trim the front half spray-foam insulation, following stud as a straightedge and cutting to fit snug ly around boxes . manufacturer’s instructions. surface.
Tips for Adding Vapor Barriers ~y ’ <f’
Provide a vapor barrier using faced insulation by Install a polyethylene vapor barrier by draping the tucking in the edges of the insu lation until the facing sheeting over the entire wall or ceiling, extending it a flanges are flush with the edges of the framing. Make few inches beyond the perimeter and overlapping the sure the flanges lie flat, with no wrinkles or gaps, and sheets at least 12”. Stap le the sheeting to the fram- staple them to the faces of the framing members ing , then carefully cut around obstructions. Sea l about every 8”. Patch any gaps or facing tears with around electrical boxes and other penetrations with packing tape or a construction tape supplied by the packing tape. Trim excess sheeting along the ceiling manufacturer. and floor after you install the surface material.
43Soundproofing Walls & Ceilings Caulk
In making homes quieter, build-
%” Drywall
ing professionals add sound-
proofing elements to combat
everything from the hum of ap- Soundproofing
pliances to the roar of airliners. board - - - _-
Many of the techniques they
use are simple improvements
involving common products
and materials. What will work
best in your home depends
upon a few factors , including
the types of noises involved,
your home ‘s construction, and
how much remodeling you
have planned. For starters, it Adding soundproofing board and insu lation are among the many
helps to know a little of the sci- simple ways you can reduce noise in your home.
ence behind sound control.
Sound is created by vibrations traveling through need , a sleeping room at 40 to 50 STC is quiet
air. Consequently, the best ways to reduce sound enough for most people; a reading room is com-
transmission are by limiting airflow and blocking fortable at 35 to 40 STC. For another gauge, con-
or absorbing vibrations. Effective soundproofing sider the fact that increasing the STC rating of an
typically involves a combination of methods. assembly by 10 reduces the perceived sound
levels by 50%. The chart on page 45 lists the STC
Stopping airflow- through walls, ceilings, floors,
ratings of several wall and ceiling assemblies.
windows, and doors-i s essential to any sound-
proofing effort. (Even a 2-ft. -thick brick wall would Improvements to walls and ceilings usually in-
not be very soundproof if it had cracks in the volve increasing the mass, absorbancy, or re-
mortar.) It’s also the simplest way to make minor siliency of the assembly; often, a combination is
improvements. Because you’re dealing with air, best. Adding layers of drywall increases mass,
this kind of soundproofing is a lot like weatheriz- helping a wall resist the vibrational force of
ing your home: add weatherstripping and door sound (%” fire -resistant drywall works best be -
sweeps, seal air leaks with caulk , install storm cause of its greater weight and density). Insulation
doors and windows, etc. The same techniques and soundproofing board absorb sound. Sound-
that keep out the cold also block exterior noise proofing board is available through drywall sup-
and prevent sound from traveling between rooms. pliers and manufacturers (see page 234). Some
After reducing airflow, the next level of sound- board products are gypsum-based ; others are
proofing is to improve the sound -blocking quali- lightweight fiberboard. Installing resilient steel
ties of your walls and ceilings. Engineers rate channels over the framing or old surface and
soundproofing performance of wall and ceiling adding a new layer of drywall increases mass,
assemblies using a system called Sound Trans- while the channels allow the surface to move
mission Class, or STC. The higher the STC rat- slightly and absorb vibrations. New walls built
ing, the more sound is blocked by the assembly. with staggered studs and insulation are highly
For example , if a wall is rated at 30 to 35 STC, effective at reducing vibration .
loud speech can be understood through the In addition to these permanent improvements,
wall. At 42 STC , loud speech is reduced to a you can reduce noise by decorating with soft
murmur. At 50 STC, loud speech cannot be materials that absorb sound. Rugs and carpet,
heard through the wall. drapery, fabric wall hangings, and soft furniture
Standard construction methods typically result in help reduce atmospheric noise within a room.
a 28 to 32 STC rating, while soundproofed walls Acoustical ceiling tiles effectively absorb and
and ceilings can carry ratings near 50. To give help contain sound within a room but do little to
you an idea of how much soundproofing you prevent sound from entering the room.
44
STC Ratings for Various Wall & Ceiling Constructions'Assembly STC Rating Assembly STC Rating Wood-frame Walls Steel-frame Wafts • 2 x 4 wal l; 1,,2” drywall on both sides; 30 • 3%’ metal studs , spaced 24” on- 40 no caulk center; %’ fire-resistant drywall • 2 x 4 wall; :>” drywall on both sides ; 35 on both sides caulked • 3%’ metal studs, spaced 24” on- 48 • 2 x 4 wall; 1,,2” drywall on both 38 center, \2’ fire-resistant drywall sides; additional layer of %” fire- sing le layer on one side, resistant drywal l on one side doubled on other side; insulated • 2 x 4 wall; 1,,2” drywall on both 40 • 21,,2” metal studs , spaced 24” on- 50 sides; additional layer of %” fire- center; soundproofing board resistant drywal l on both sides (base layer) and 1,,2” fire-resistant drywall on both sides; insulated • 2 x 4 wall; 1/,>” drywall on both sides; 39 insu lated Wood-frame Floor/Ceifing • Staggered-stud 2 x 4 wall; %’ 50 • Drywall below; subfloor and re- 32 fire-resistant drywall on each silient (vinyl) flooring above side; insulated • %” fire-resistant drywall attached 48 • 2 x 4 wall, sound~roofing board 50 to resilient steel channels below; (base layer) and )8” fire-resistant subfloor, pad, and carpet above drywall on each side; insulated • Double layer %” fire-resistant Up to 60 • 2 x 4 wall with resilien t steel 52 drywall attached to resilient channels on one side; %” fire- stee l channels below; subfloor, resistant drywall on both sides; pad , and carpet above insu lated
*AII assem blies are sealed with caulk, exc ept where noted. Rati ngs are approximate.
Tips for Reducing Exterior Noise …
Install weatherstripping on doors DO Add storm doors and windows Seal around pipes, A/C service and windows to seal off any air to minimize air leaks and create an lines , vents , and other penetra- leaks. If the wall framing around additional sound barrier. Use high- tions in exterior walls , using ex- the door or window is exposed, performance (air-tight) storm units panding foam or caulk. Make sure make sure all cavities are filled and maintain a 2’ air gap between through-wall A/C units are well- with loose ly packed insulation. the storm and the primary unit. sealed along their perimeters .
45
Interior NoiseStop airflow between rooms by sealing the joints Cover switch and receptacle boxes with foam gas- where walls meet floors. With finished walls, remove kets to prevent air leaks. Otherwise, seal around the the shoe molding and spray insulating foam, acoustic box perimeter with acoustic sealant or caulk and seal sealant, or non-hardening caulk under the base- around the knockout where the cables enter the box. boards . Also seal around door casings. With new walls , seal along the top and bottom p lates.
Soundproof doors between rooms by adding a Reduce sound transmission through ductwork by sweep at the bottom and weatherstripping along the lining ducts with special insulation (see page 234). If stops. If doors are hollow-core, replacing them with a duct supplying a quiet room has a takeoff point solid-core units will increase soundproofing perfor- close to that of a noisy room, move one or both ducts mance. Soundproof workshop and utility room doors so their takeoff points are as distant from each other with a layer of acoustical tiles . as possib le.
46
How to Install Resilient Steel Channels Joist
Channel
%" Drywatt
%" drywallOn ceilings, install channels perpendicu lar to the joists , spaced 24” on- On walls, use the same installa- center. Fasten at each joist with 11/4” type W drywall screws , driven tion techniques as with the ceiling through the channel flange . Stop the channels 1” short of all walls . Join application, installing the channels pieces on long runs by overlapping the ends and fastening through both horizontally. Position the bottom pieces. Insulate the joist bays with R-11 unfaced fiberg lass or other insu- channel 2” from the floor and the lation and install 5,.a” fire-resistant drywall, run perpendicular to the chan- top channel within 6” of the ceiling. nels. For double-layer app lication, install the second layer of drywal l Insulate the stud cavities and in- perpendicular to the first. stall the drywall vertically.
How to Build Staggered-stud Partition Walls
Weave R-11 unfaced fiberglass blanket insu lation1 Frame new partition walls using 2 x 6 plates . Space the studs 12” apart, staggering them so alternate studs are aligned with opposite sides of the 2 horizontally between the studs . Cover each side with one or more layers of 5,.a” fire-resistant drywall. plates. Seal under and above the p lates with acoustic sealant.
47
Sound-board
joints caulk
fire rated
gypsum joints
board
Floor gap
filled with
caulk2” vibration pads
Soundproofing Home Theaters Home theaters are quickly becom ing a common possibilities. Hanging soundproofing board , feature in many homes. And while finding an af- sound-rated wallboard, or multiple layers of wall- fordable yet impressive multimedia system is no board can increase STC ratings significantly. longer a problem , finding a space within your Two of the most effective systems are resilient home to enjoy it may not be so easy. The walls of channels (page 47) and mass loaded vinyl the average house are not designed to contain (MLV) underlayment, a heavy vinyl sheeting extreme sound levels. To combat this issue, which many manufacturers claim can more than there are numerous soundproofing products and double a wall’s STC rating . materials available to help keep those on both For sound absorption , closed-cell acoustical sides of a home theater wall happy. foam matting can be used to insulate between As discussed on page 44, engineers rate the wall board pane ls and framing. Similarly, padded soundproofing performance of wall and ceiling tape minimizes transmission of sound vibration assemblies using a system called Sound Trans- between wall panels and framing, and can be mission Class (STC). Standard partition walls carry used to line resilient channels for added insula- STC ratings of 28 to 32. Determining an appropri- tion. Sound isolation mounting clips contain ate STC rating for your home theate r is dependent molded neoprene to provide added insulation on a number of factors, such as the power of your between resilient channels and framing. Vibra- multimedia system and the type of room opposite tion pads made of cork and closed -cell acousti - the wall, but a minimum of 60 STC is adequate cal foam or neoprene isolates sound vibration to for most. Remember: The higher the STC rating, reduce transmission between objects. the more sound is blocked. When fastening soundproofing and wallboard But blocking sound is not the only consideration. panels to resilient channels, leave a Y4-in . be- The low frequencies generated by subwoofers tween all pane ls at corners, and fill the gaps with cause vibrations , which in turn create unwanted acoustical caulk. All gaps , seams, and cracks noise within the room. The most effective approach should be filled with acoustical caulk. The more for soundproofing a home theater is to install both airtight a home theater, the more soundproof it is . sound barriers to minimize sound escaping and Whichever soundproofing products or materials sound absorbers to reduce noise within the room. you choose, make sure to fo llow the manufactur- Adding mass to walls and ceilings is an effective er’s installation instruction to achieve the optimal way to block sound. In new construction, stag - performance. For more information regarding gered-stud partitions (page 47) or double stud soundproofing board and sound-rated wall- parti tions (two adjacent rows of studs) are board, see pages 55 and 84 to 85.
48
Tips for Soundproofing a Home Theater
Use contact cement to glue %” closed-ce ll acousti- Apply self-adhesive padded tape to resilient chan- cal matting directly to existing wall and ceiling sur- nels or directly to the edges of framing members. faces or to the backside of wallboard panels in new construction.
Staple MLV (mass loaded vinyl) Install 2” vibration pads every 2 Seal all gaps between panels and underlayment directly to framing feet between flooring and installed at wall and ceiling joints with members, between layers of wall- wallboard panels. Fasten base- acoustical cau lk. board and soundproofing board, board into framing on ly, not into vi- or directly to existing wal l and ceil- bration pads. ing surfaces. Overlap seams by at least 6”.
49Plastic sheeting, sheet membrane, building paper, and trowel-applied membrane are all options for adding waterproofing to walls. Isolation membranes in strips or sheets also protect tile surfaces from cracking due to small movements in the underlayment.
Installing Wall Membranes Wall membranes may provide waterproofing or and the type of substrate on which it can be used. isolation from small underlayment movement, or It is important to apply isolation membrane to both. Because water does not sit on wall sur- concrete walls to prevent hairline cracks from be- faces as it does on floors , waterproofing of walls ing transferred outward to the tile or grout surface. is not as critical. In most cases, plastic sheeting Some products combine waterproofing and iso- or building paper behind cement backer board lation properties. The tile adhesive is applied di- is sufficient. Saunas and steam rooms may need rectly to the isolation membrane after it has cured. additional waterproofing. Be sure to check for compatibility between the roll- Isolation membrane comes in roll- or trowel-on or trowel-on membranes and your particular ap- forms as well as in sheet form. It can be applied to plication needs. Fountains and pools have specific existing cracks or potential areas of movement. waterproofing needs- check with your tile dealer Check the product directions for the maximum if you plan on using wall tile for a pool wall. width crack or expansion joint that can be spanned
50
A water barrier of 4-mil plastic sheeting can be Building paper (15#) can also be used as a water stapled to studs before installing cementboard or barrier beh ind cementboard and fiber-cement board . fiber-cement board. Start from the bottom and install horizontally so each layer overlaps the previous one by two inches.
Waterproofing!isolation membranes are an easy Isolation membrane may be used on wall and ceil- way to add waterproofing and crack protection to ex- ing su rfaces in areas such as steam rooms and isting walls. This app lication is espec ially suited to saunas that have extreme temperature fluctuation smooth, solid concrete surfaces . The ti le adhesive is and high humidity. The membrane is typically in- app lied directly to the membrane after it dries. stalled with mortar, but some membranes must be used with a specific bonding agent.
51.p. r- (I’m nr- - - ;J>m r- -n —== m -< ----::- ;0-< - W 5° I;o (,Q -<- G) -tI O-t —=1
Installing Wallboard Wallboard & Wallboa rd Installation Materials … . … . … 54
Too ls for Installing Wallboard … … … … … ... 58
Devising a Layout Plan … . … . … 60
Preparing for Wallboard Installation … . … 62
Measuring & Cutting Wallboard … . … . … 66
Fastening Wallboard … 72
Hanging Standard Wallboard … . … . … 74
Hanging Wallboard in Multiple Layers .. . 84
Hanging Decorative Wallboard Panels .. .86
Hanging Wallboard on Curves … . … 88
Adding Architectural Detail with Wallboard … 90
Hanging Cementboard … … … 92
53Most home centers and lumberyards have ample supplies of common wallboard products and materials in stock. If you can’t find what you need, call a wallboard supplier, usually listed in the phone book under “Build- ing Materials,” “Wallboard ,” or “Drywall. ”
Wallboard & Wallboard Tapered seam Installation Materials Drywall in its present form was developed in 1917 as an economical substitute for plaster. It Wallboard Panels became popular during the 1940s and today has all but rep laced plaster in new construction. Be- Know by several common names, such as gyp- cause drywall is inexpensive, perfectly uniform , sum board , plasterboard, drywall , and Sheetrock, and easy to install, it’s also the best choice for wallboard comes in a variety of types and sizes, do-it-yourselfers working on remodeling projects. each designed to perform best under specific conditions. Drywall panels consist of a core of solid gypsum (a natural mineral product) wrapped in paper. Standard drywall is used for most walls and ceil- The paper, which is thick, smooth, and white on ings in dry, interior areas. It comes in 4-ft.-wide the panel face and rougher and gray on the back, panels in lengths ranqing from 8 ft. to 16 ft. and provides most of the panel ‘s strength, so it’s in thicknesses of Y4”, ‘3A3”, 1,,2”, and 5A3” . There are important that the paper remains intact. also 54”-wide panels for horizontal installations on walls with 9-ft. ceilings. The lon~ edges of drywall pane ls are tapered about 2 /2” from the edge. When two panels are Standard W panels are appropriate for walls butted together, the tapered edges create a re- and for ceilings with standard 16” on-center cess for the joint tape and drywall compound framing. Where ceiling framing is 24” on-center, that cover the seam and make the pane ls ap- %” standard panels or W’ ceiling panels are rec - pear continuous. The ends of the panels, which ommended to prevent sagging (ceiling panels are not tapered, are more difficult to finish when are specifically designed for this application, butted together. 54
and for when heavy, water-based textures will be applied). The Y4” and %” panels are useful for adding a smooth veneer over old , rough surfaces and for curved walls. Flexible drywall, specially made for curved walls, is a more flexible version of W’ flexible drywall standard Y4”-thick drywall. It can be installed dry or dampened with water to increase its flexibility. Fire-resistant drywall has a dense, fiber- reinforced core that helps contain fire. Th ick- nesses are 1,-2”, %”, and 3/4”. Your local building department may require fire-resistant panels in garages, on walls adjacent to garages, and in furnace and utility rooms. Moisture-resistant drywall, commonly called greenboard or blueboard, for the color of its face paper, is made to hold up in areas of high-hu- midity and against occasional contact with mois- ture. It is used most often in bathrooms, behind kitchen sinks, and in laundry rooms. For 16” on- center framin~, 1,~” -thick pane ls are appropriate for walls, and )t” panels for ceilings. For wet ar- eas that will receive tile , it’s better to use a tile backer (see page 56) rather than greenboard. Abuse-resistant drywall withstands surface ~- impacts and resists penetrations better than standard drywall. It’s available in 1,-2” regular and 5A3” fire-resistant types. Foil-backed drywall has a foil layer in its back side that serves as a vapor barrier to prevent interior I WI standard water vapor from migrating outward into the wall drywall cavity. These panels are not recommended for tile applications or for use in hot, humid climates. Decorative drywall products are available from various major and specialty manufacturers. Pop- ular options include prefinished vinyl-coated panel systems, decorative corner treatments, prefabricated arches, and drywall panels that quiet spaces. Both types are avail - look like traditional paneling. able in common thicknesses up to %-in.; Blueboard is the common name of the wallboard when used in multi-layer installations, their panels used with veneer plaster systems. Panels sound-deadening capabilities increase. are actually wrapped in two layers of paper. The Mold-resistant wallboard is a specialty board de- blue-colored face paper is highly absorptive signed for areas that are regularly damp, have while the second layer is moisture-resistant to high humidity or that are otherwise susceptible protect the gypsum core. The wet-mix plaster to mold and mildew growth. There are two main soaks into the face layer, but stops at the base types available: paperless and “purpleboard.” layer, thereby bonding with the former to create Paperless wallboard is a gypsum panel faced a solid, monolithic surface that is stronger and with glass matting that replaces the paper mold more consistent than wallboard. feeds on. “Pu rpleboard” is a paper-faced panel High -density gypsum and cellulose fiber sound- treated with a number of moisture-, mold-, and proofing board provide excellent noise attenua- mildew-resistant chemicals, and can be used as tion for home theaters, media rooms, and other a tile backer.
55
TILE BACKER
If you 're planning to tile new walls in wet areas,
such as tub and shower enclosures, use tile backer
board as a substrate rather than drywall. Unlike
drywall, tile backer won 't break down- and ruin the
tile job- if water gets behind the tile. There are
three basic types of tile backer (see page 234 for
supplier information):
Cementboard is made from portland cement and
sand reinforced by a continuous outer layer of fiber-
glass mesh. It's available in W and %" thicknesses.
See page 92 to 93 for installation instructions.
Fiber-cement board is simi lar to cementboard but
is somewhat lighter, with fiber reinforcement inte-
qrated throughout the panel material. It comes in
y." and 112' thicknesses . Cementboard and fiber-
cement board cannot be damaged by water, but
water can pass through them. To prevent damage
to the framing , install a water barrier of 4-mi l plastic
or 15# building paper behind the backer.
Dens-Shield", commonly called glass mat, is a wa-
ter-resistant gypsum board with a waterproof fiber-
glass facing . Dens-Shield cuts and installs much
like standard drywall but requires galvanized
screws to prevent corrosion. Because the front sur-
face provides the water barrier , all untaped joints
and penetrations must be sealed with caulk before
the tile is installed . Do not use a water barrier be-
hind Dens-Shield .
TIP: Pre-bowing panels helps ensure a tight seal with the framing when using adhesives. The day before
installation , stack panels face up , supporting each end with a pair of 2 x 4s . This helps create pressure
between the pane l and the studs as the memory of the panel tries to revert to the bowed shape.56
A B c o EScrews for attaching wallboard include (from left): type-G for multi-layer installations (A) , cementboard screws (8), type-S standard and self-tapping for attaching panels to steel framing (C , D), and type-W screws for screw- ing panels to wood framing (E).
Fasteners they reduce the number of fasteners needed by up to 75%, and they can bridge minor irregulari- Wallboard screws have replaced nails as the ties in framing members. Adhesives are avail- fastener-of-choice for most professionals, and able in tubes and applied in %” using a caulk gun. for good reason. Screws hold better than nails and are less likely to “pop,” they install faster, There are three types of adhesives used for in- and they’re easier to drive without damaging the stalling wallboard. Construction adhesive is used wallboard. Wallboard screws have bugle-shaped with screws for gluing panels directly to framing heads that help them countersink into the panel or a solid base, such as concrete basement walls. surface without breaking the face paper. There Panel or laminating adhesive is used for gluing are four types of screws common to wallboard wallboard panels to other pane ls in multi-layer installation: installations, or to bond wall board with concrete walls or rigid foam insulation. A few type-G wall- Type-W screws have coarse threads for secur- board screws may be needed to support panels ing panels to wood framing. They offer tremen- while the adhesive sets up . Contact cement is dous holding power when properly installed. used for attaching other coverings to wallboard Type-W screws must be long enough to pene- panels, such as mass loaded vinyl sheeting for trate wood framing by a minimum of %” soundproofing (see pages 48 to 49). Type-G screws have a thicker shank and a While not an adhesive, acoustical caulk is used coarse thread pattern for holding together pan- during multiple layer installations to seal all gaps els in multi-layer installations that do not require around the perimeter of installed panels, along fastening to framing. To use type-G screws, the corners, ceilings, and floors. Acoustical caulk also base layer must be a minimum of 1;,:>” thick. comes in tubes and is applied with a caulk gun. Type-S screws are fine-threaded fasteners for securing wallboard to steel framing resilient channels. Make sure type-S screws penetrate steel framing by at least %” Cementboard screws are made from stainless steel with ridges beneath the head that cut into the backer board to countersink the screw head. Wallboard screws are sold by the pound at home centers and lumberyards. Typically, you ‘ll use a Ph illips drive to install screws, though the square drive (or “Robertson) is finding popular- ity. Outfit your screwgun or drill with the proper bit and change it out for a new one at the first sign of wear. Adhesives Adhesives can be used in wallboard installation , Adhesives used for wallboard include: contact ce- and offer a number of benefits: they create a ment A), acoustical caulk (8) and panel adhesive (C) much stronger bond between framing and panels, and construction adhesive (D).
57Hanging wallboard requires a number of support and safety tools and equipment. While stepladders (A) are the most readi ly available for accessing ceilings and upper walls, a wallboard lift (8) can hoist a panel tight against the framing. The lift’s frame can also be tilted to accommodate the pitch of attic and cathedral ceilings . Wallboard benches (C) and wallboard stilts (D) are other options, bringing you within reach of ceilings for easy panel installation. To avoid injury to your back , use a panel carrier and lower-back support (E) when moving or lifting panels.
Tools for Installing Wallboard To hang wallboard you’ll need a variety of tools use a wall board compass to score the panel. A to measure, mark, and cut panels to size , as well drill can also be outfitted with a hole saw for as fasten them to the framing. A tape measure is p ipes and other small round cutouts. A keyhole a necessity for measuring and marking wall- saw makes quick work of small holes, such as board. A T-square saves time by helping you those for electrical boxes. A wallboard saw cuts make straight , square cuts across the entire notches for doors, windows, and other openings width of a panel, while a chalk line creates lay- quickly. But for genuine speed in making out and cutting lines across greater spans. To cutouts , use a wallboard router to cut through check the framing for p lumb and square, a fram - panels after they have been installed. ing square and 4-ft. level are handy. The best tool for hanging wallboard is a screw- The main tool for cutting wallboard is a utility gun. Similar to a drill, a screw gun has an ad- knife. Make sure you have plenty of extra sharp justable clutch that stops driving the screw at a blades on hand, swapping out the dull ones of- preset depth. For large jobs, it’s practical to rent ten. Use a wallboard rasp to smooth cut panel a screwgun; otherwise , use a variable speed 3;8” edges. A standard compass is necessary for drill and drive the screws carefully. A wall board scribing adjacent surfaces onto a pane l and cre - lifter helps you prop up panels while fastening ating small circles for cutouts. For larger circles , them , but a flat bar can perform the same func-
58
Tools for installing wallboard include: plumb bob (A), drywall rasp (8), compass (C) , wallboard compass (D) , protective masks (E) , drill with hole saw (F), drywall router (G), drywal l gun (H) , utility knife (I), eye protection (J), tape measure (K), wallboard lifter (L) , caulk gun (M), pry bar (N), wallboard saw (0), keyhole saw (P), framing square (Q), level (R) , wallboard T-square (S).
tion. Apply adhesives and caulking using a caulk gun. Wallboard hand tools can be purchased at home centers at reasonable prices. If you don’t wish to buy power tools, most of them can be can be found at rental centers, along with a vari- ety of the specialty tools. During every phase of a wallboard project, make sure to protect your- self from the dust and debris generated- always wear protective eyewear, with a dust mask or respirator when cutting wallboard.
A pair of T-braces or "deadmen" that are 1-in. taller
than the ceiling height can help hold wallboard against
the framing during cei ling installations. Cut a straight
2 x 4 so it's a 1,,2" shorter than the ceiling height, then
fasten a 36-in .-Iong 2 x 4 to the end for the bracing arm .
59
I'- 12 ft. 100 1
Devising a Layout PlanT 8 ft. Planning the layout of wallboard panels prior to installation makes it a lot easier to create a mate- rials list, minimize seams and solve problems
1 PlanA before they crop up. Take careful measurements and make a sketch of each wall and ceiling to be covered. Note the ac. spacing of the fram- ing, which can affect the thickness of wallboard you can install as well as how you install it (either parallel or perpendicular to the framing) . See the 12 ft. -I chart on the opposite page for maximum fram- I” ing spacing allowances. T 4 ft. Standard wallboard is commonly available in
t widths of 4-fl. and 54-in. (4-fl. 6-in .). and lengths of 8-ft., 1O-fl., 12-fl., 14-fl., and 16-fl. It’s in your best interest to use the longest wallboard panels 4 ft. you can: it’ll save you a lot of work during the fin- i ishing phase. While home centers and lumber- yard always have 4-fl. x 8-fl. in stock, they often Plan B carry smaller quantities of the other sizes or can special order them. !-4ft. _I” 16 ft. -I The trick to plann ing the optimal wallboard lay- out is to minimize seams. Seams requ ire joint
T 8 ft. tape, compound, and sanding, which means the less of them there are, the less work you have ahead of you. For wall or ceiling surfaces 48-in. wide or less, cover the entire area using a single
1 Plane wallboard pane l. With no seams to tape, you’ll only have to cover the screw heads with a few thin coats of compound. Walls that are wider than 48-in. will require at least two panels. While there are a number of ways you could hang them, some possib ilities yield I’- 16 It. 1001’- 4ft.~ better results than others. For example, take a wall that is 8-fl. high and 12-fl. long, as shown in T 4 ft. first two plans at the top left. Three pane ls could be installed vertically (Plan A), resu lting in only tapered
t 4 ft. seams and no butt joints. However, this plan re- quires 16 linear fl. of vertical taping, working from floor to ceiling, which is more difficult than taping a horizontal seam . Using two 4-ft. x 12-ft. i panels (Plan B) reduces the amount of taping by Plan D 25% and places the seam about waist high, eas- ing the finishing process. While a reduction of 25% of the finish work may not mean much on a Wallboard Grain small project, on a large remodel or new con- struction it can save you a lot of time and money. Gypsum wallboard actually has a grain that runs parallel to its long tapered sides. giving panels Avoid butt joints where possible, but if they are more strength along their length then across their necessary, locate them as far from the center of width. Installing panels perpendicular to the the wall as possible to help mask the seam. framing provides stronger, more rigid wall and While it is best to use full panels, do not butt a ceiling surfaces. tapered edge to panel ends (Plan C). Th is con- figuration produces an 8-fl. long butt seam that
60
How to Devise a Drywall Layout I - -------:=-------==:::::::,, ~stagger 10lnts .. +--- Break over middle of openings
Tapered
edge
r-------, ---------------------
I, \
1111 Note utility
II! lines for
referenceWallboard seams must fallon the centers of framing Don’t place seams over the corners of doors, win- members, so measure the framing when planning your dows, and other openings: joints here often crack or layout. Use long sheets to span an entire wall, or hang cause bulges that interfere with trim. Where framing sheets vertically. Avoid butted end joints whenever contains utility lines, draw a map for future reference, possible; where they do occur, stagger them between noting locations of wiring, pipes and shutoff valves. rows so they don’t fallon the same framing member.
Maximum Framing Spacing Panel Thickness Installation Maximum Framing Spacing 3AJ” Ceilings , perpendicular to Framing 16-in.O.C. Walls 16-in.O.C. Ceilings , paral lel to Framing 16-in.O.C. Ceilings , perpendicular to Framing 24-in.O.C. Walls 24-in . O.C . Ceilings , parallel to Framing 16-in.O.C. Ceilings , perpendicular to Framing 24-in.O.C. Walls 24-in.O.C.
will be difficult to finish . The best solution is to ft. panels by measuring the length of the walls stagger the long panels and fill in with pieces and divide the total by 4. For each window, sub- cut from another (Plan D). For all butt joints, tract Y4 panel; for doors, a 1;2 panel. Keep in panel ends must break on a framing member mind that panels are sold in pairs, so round odd unless you plan to use back blocking to recess numbered totals up to an even amount. the seam (see page 83). The amount of screws you’ll need depends on the In rooms with ceilings over 8-ft in height, use 54- O.C. spacing of your framing and the fastener in. wide panels. If ceilings are 9-fl. or more, con- spacing schedule required (see page 73). For a sider using longer panels installed vertically. rough estimate, calculate the square footage of the wall and ceiling surfaces and multiply by 1 Estimating Materials fastener per every 1 sq. ft. Wallboard screws are To estimate the number of wallboard pane ls sold in pounds- one pound of screws equals you ‘ll need, you can simply count the number roughly 320 screws . Construction adhesive is used in your layout sketch. For larger projects, available is tubes. Check the manufacturer’s you can do a quick estimation for using 4-ft. x 8- specifications on the tube for coverage .
61
Preparing for Wallboard
Installation
Begin your installation project by checking the
framing - and adding blocking, if necessary-
and planning the layout of the panels. Minor
flaws in the framing can be hidden by the wall-
board and joint compound, but a severely
bowed or twisted stud or crowned or sagging
joists will result in an uneven wallboard surface.
Check the straightness and alignment of the
framing using your eye, a level , a straight board ,
or a string . Bad studs can be corrected or re-
placed, but for serious joist problems it's usually
easiest to add a grid of furring strips or install a
steel channel ceiling system (see page 65).
Everything You Need
Tools: Hammer, tape measu re, 4-ft. level , fram ing
square, handsaw, plane , screwgun or dri ll ,
chalkli ne .Following your layout plan , measure and mark the Materials: 2x framing lumber, 10d framing nails, location of wallboard seams to ensure there is ade- wood shims, wallboard screws, suspended ceil- quate backing for panels . Install 2x blocking where ing system. needed to provide additional fastening support.
Tips for Drywall Preparation
Install protector plates where Wrap cold-water pipes along the Mark the location and dimen- wires or pipes pass through fram- ceiling with foam insulation before sions of electrical boxes on the ing members and are less than covering them with drywall. This floor. This makes it easier to locate 1’/4” from the front edge . The prevents condensation on the them during wallboard installation. plates keep drywall screws from pipes that can drip onto the dry- puncturing wires or pipes. wall and cause staining.
62
Tips for Installing Blocking
Add backing to support panel Add crossblocking between Fasten 2 x 4 nailers to the top edges that won’t fal l over framing. framing members with 24-in. O.C. plate of walls that run parallel to When installing new panels next to spacing where needed , to help joints. This provides a fastening an existing wall surface, or where sup£ort edges of wallboard pan- surface for ceiling panels. The the framing layout doesn’t coincide els ~- i n.-thick or less. nailer should overhang the plate with the drywal l edges , it’s often by half its width . easiest to add an extra stud for backing. See page 33 for adding backing above foundation walls.
—~~~~~~~
:::-
~
;:::::::==:: - --- =
,— I sc:::;;: Jis~ :ffi
JOIst ? :;—:
----::-
1 x 3 furring Drywall 2 x 3 furring
strips laid flat strips laid flat
---- --- •
•
2 x 3 strips
installed on edgeAttach furring strips where service lines and other obstacles project be- Use plywood strips to join panel yond the framing. The strips create a flat surface for attaching drywall edges in problem areas between and can also be used to compensate for uneven joists. Use 1 x 3 or 2 x 3 framing, creating a floating seam. furring strips and attach them perpendicularly to the framing with drywall This method does not provide a screws. Space the strips 16” on-center and use wood shims secured be- substitute for structural backing; hind the strips to adjust for unevenness. the panels still must be supported by framing or blocking.
63How to Straighten Bowed Studs
Use a long, straight 2 x 4 as a guide to check the alignment of studs . For studs that bow slightly, use Hold the 2 x 4 against the studs both horizontally and diagonally , looking a plane or chisel to trim the facing for gaps. To check a corner for square, use a 24-in. fram ing square. edge just enough so it is flush with the surrounding framing .
How to Straighten Bowed Studs
Studs in non-load-bearing walls bowed inward more than 1;4” can be Variation : Staple cardboard strips straightened. Using a handsaw, make a 2” cut into the stud at the mid- to stud faces. Use solid strips (not point of the bow. Pull the stud outward , and glue a tapered wood shim corrugated), which are available into the saw cut to ho ld the stud straight. Attach a 2-ft.-long 2 x 4 brace from drywall suppliers, or mat to one side of the stud to strengthen it, then trim off the shim . For studs board from an art supply store. For that bow outward , plane down the stud surface with a portable power extreme bows, start with a 12” to plane or hand plane. Replace any studs that are severely twisted . 24” strip and add layers of succes- sively longer strips.
64
Installing a Suspended Ceiling System for Wallboard
Orl/w,,11 main tees
2 gaohanger wires— — -. -.. Orlrw,,11 cross tees
~ - -0; - - —~ -
-... ..- " ..
..""'-
Wallboard
panel
Channel moldingSuspended ceiling systems for wallboard are in- and tees can be cut to length using aviation snips or a stalled similarly to suspended acoustical ceilings (see saw outfitted with a metal cutting blade. Once the ceil- pages 154 to 157). The resilient steel tees, channels , ing system is in place , wallboard panels are installed and heavy-gauge wire work together to create a base as in a conventional installation. For W’ and % ” pan- grid strong enough to support up to two layers of % ” els, use 1” type-S (fine thread) wallboard screws. fire-rated wallboard. Like steel framing, steel channels
I Tee
Transition clip
12 gao
hanger wire
24" O.C. 5/8" wallboard
panel
\Main tee
•
I
Fire expansion
notch
/
Wallboard Angle
panel moldingMain tees should be supported every 24-in. O.C. for Form vertical surfaces for ceiling soffits or ductwork 1;2-in. and %-in. ceiling panels, and a maximum of raceways by screwing wa llboard panels to tees that 16-in. O.C. for th icker panels . Use 12-gauge hanger are attached to the main tees with transition clips . wires fastened to the ceiling joists. Fasten the mold- ing to framing members with 1%” wallboard screws .
65Measuring & Cutting Wallboard
Wallboard is one of the easiest building materi- board and keyhole saws , make all cuts from the als to install , partly because it allows so much front side to prevent tearing the face paper. For margin for error. Most professionals measure projects that require a number of cutouts, use a and cut to the nearest 1/8-in., and it’s perfectly wallboard router. They make short work of large acceptable to trim off a little extra from a panel openings and electrical boxes , though they gen- to make it easier to get into a tight space. The erate a lot of dust, so make sure to wear a dust exceptions to this are cutouts for electrical mask. Wallboard routers are available at rental boxes and recessed light fixtures, which must centers, or you can use a standard router outfit- be accurate, because the coverplates usually ted with a piloted wallboard bit. hide less then you think they will. Make sure your utility knife is sharp. A sharp blade ensures clean , accurate cuts that slice through the face paper and score the gypsum Everything You Need core in one pass. A dull blade can slip from the Tools: Tape measure, T-square , pencil , chalkline, cutting line to snag and rip the face paper, and utility knife, wall board rasp, wal lboard saw, key- is more likely to cause injury. hole saw, compass, wallboard router. With a sharp utility knife, you can make cuts Materials: Wallboard panels. from either side of panels. But when using wall-
How to Make Straight Cuts
Mark the length on the face of Bend the scored section back- Fold back the waste piece and1at thethe panel, then set aT-square mark. Hold the square in 2 ward with both hands to snap the gypsum core. 3 cut through the back paper with the utility knife. place with your hand and foot, and cut through the face paper, using a utility knife with sharp blade.
66
How to Make Angled Cuts
Measure both the vertica l "rise" and horizontal Connect the marks with a T-square, ho ld down1 “run” of the area and mark the dimensions along the corresponding edges of the wallboard. 2 firmly , and score the wallboard from point to point. Finish the cut using the “snap cut” method on page 66; be careful not to damage the po inted ends.
Tips for Making Straight Cuts
Variation: Make horizontal cuts Smooth rough edges with a Tip: Where untapered panel ends using a tape measure and utility knife. With one hand, hold the 3 drywall rasp. One or two passes with the rasp should be will be butted together, bevel-cut the outside edges of each panel at knife blade at the end of the tape. sufficient. To he lp fit a piece into a 45°, remov ing about 11ll” of mater- With the other hand, grip the tape tight space, bevel the edge ia l. This helps prevent the paper at the desired measurement- slightly toward the back of the from creating a ridge along the slide th is hand along the panel panel. seam. Peel off any loose paper edge as you make the cut. from the edge.
67How to Cut Notches
Using a large drywall saw, cut the vertical sides of Cut the face paper along the bottom of the notch ,1 the notch . (These saws are also handy for cutting out door and window openings after the drywall is in- 2 using a utility knife. Snap the waste piece back- ward to break the core, then cut through the back stalled.) paper.
How to Cut Large Openings_ _IGJ
I
~
I
IMeasure the location of the cutout and transfer Install the panel over the opening. The scored line 1 the dimensions to the backside of the panel. Score along the line that represents the header of the 2 should fall at the header. Cut the wallboard along the jambs and up to the header, using a wallboard opening , using a straightedge and utility knife. saw. Snap forward the waste piece to break the core, then cut through the face paper and remove.
68
How to Cut an Electrical Box Opening : Coordinate Method
Locate the four corners of the Transfer the coordinates to the Drill a pilot hole in one corner1 box by measuring from the nearest fixed edge- a corner, the 2 panel and connect the points, using a T-square. Measure from 3 of the outline, then make the cutout with a keyhole saw. ceiling , or the edge of an installed the panel edge that will abut the panel- to the outside edges of the fixed edge you measured from . If box. the panel has been cut short for a better fit, make sure to account for this in your measurements .
How to Cut an Electrical Box Opening: Chalk Method r---~
Rub the face of the electrical box with chalk, then Pull the panel back from the wall; a chalk outline 1 position the panel where it wil l be instal led , and press it into the box. 2 of the box is on the back of the panel. Drill a pilot hole in one corner of the outline , then make the cut with a keyhole saw.
69How to Cut Holes in Drywall
•
I
+ I
~l
To make round cutouts, mea- Force the pointed end of a dry- Variation: Drive the point of a dry-1 sure to the center of the object, then transfer the centerpoint to the 2 wall saw through the panel from the face side, then saw along wall compass into the center marking, then rotate the compass drywall panel. Use a compass set the marked line. (These saws work wheel to cut the face paper. Tap a to ” the diameter of the cutout to well for all internal cuts.) nail through the centerpoint, score mark the circle on the panel face. the back paper, then knock out the hole through the face.
How to Make a Cutout for a Round Fixture Box
1 Locate the four outmost edges of the round box by measuring from the nearest fixed edge-a 2 Transfer the coordinates to the panel, measuring from the panel edge that will abut the fixed edge 3 Use a compass to draw the outline of the round box on the panel (see above) . Drill a pilot corner, the ceiling, or the edge of you measured from, then connect ho le at one point of the outline , an insta lled panel-to the outer- the points using a T-square. The then make the cutout with a key- most edges of the box . point where the lines intersect is ho le saw. the centerpoint of the circ le. Note: If the panel has been cut short for a better fit, make sure to account for this in your measurements.
70
How to Make Cuts with a Compass
For out-of-square corners, cut the panel 1” longer Irregular surfaces can be scribed onto panels using than necessary, then ho ld it in position so it is plumb. the same method. Cut along the scribe line with a Set a compass at 1\14”, then run it along the wall to keyhole saw, then test fit the piece and make adjust- scribe the corner onto the face of the panel. Snap cut ments as necessary. along the line , using a utility knife (see page 66).
How to Cut Drywall with a Router
Standard or drywall routers are For electrical boxes, mark the For doorways and other open- handy for cutting holes for electri- floor at the locations of the box ings, insta ll the drywall over the cal boxes and openings . You can centers. Hang the drywall , fasten- opening . Moving clockwise , let the use a router made for the purpose ing only at the top edge . Plunge router bit follow the inside of the or outfit a standard router by the router bit into the box center , frame to make the cutout. Always removing the router base and in- move the bit sideways to the work clockwise when cutting along stalling a piloted drywal l b it edge, then carefully work the bit to the inside of a frame; counterclock- (typically a X” shank) . the outside. Follow the outside of wise when following the outside of the box, cutting counterclockwise . an object, like an electrical box.
71
Fastening Wallboard
The key to fastening wallboard is to countersink
screwheads to create a slight recess , or "dim -
ple ," without breaking the face paper. The best
tool for the job is a screwgun, which has an ad -
justable clutch that can be set to stop screws at
a preset depth. A variable speed drill/driver and
a light touch will also get the job done.
When driving screws, hold the screwgun or drill at
a right angle to the framing, placing the fastener
%" from the panel edge. Space screws evenly
along the perimeter and across the field of the
panel, following the chart on the opposite page.
Do not fasten the entire perimeter and then fasten
the field; work along the length or width of the
panel, moving across to the sides as you push
the push the wallboard tight against the framing.
In addition to screws, construction adhesive can
be used to create a stronger bond between wall-
board and framing.Pre-drive fasteners along the top edge of panels, at Everything You Need the location of each framing member, to help facili- Tools: Screwgun or 3;8-in. d rill, caulk gun. tate installation. Drive fasteners deep enough to hold Materials: Wallboard, wallboard nails, wallboard their place but not enough to penetrate the backside of the panel. screws, construction adhesive.
Tips for Fastening Wallboard At panel edges, drive fasteners 3;8_ in. from the edges , making sure to hit the framing squarely. If the fas- tener tears the pa- per or crumbles the edge, drive another about 2-in. away from the first.
Recess all screws
to provide a space ,
called a "dimple ,"
for the joint com-
pound . However,
driving a screw too
far and breaking
the paper renders itAdhesives create stronger bonds than fasteners, useless. If this hap- and reduce the number of screws need for panel in- pens , drive another stallation . Apply a 3;8” bead along framing members, screw about 2’ stopping 6-in. from panel edges (left) . At butt joints, away . apply beads to both sides of the joint (right). Panels are then fastened along the perimeter.
72
Size of Fasteners Fastener Wallboard Minimum Fastener Wallboard Minimum type thickness fastener length type thickness fastener length
Wood screws 3IB” 1” Steel screws 3IB” 3/4” (Type W; coarse thread) 1,.2” 11,‘8” (Type S; fi ne thread, l,.2” 7A1” self-tapping) sIB” 1%” 51B” 1”
*For mu ltiple layers of wallboard , fasteners must penetrate the framing by 7k-in . Add the thickness of the two layers plus 7k-in . to determine the mini- mum fastener length .
Fastening Schedules MAXIMUM FASTENER SPACING MAXIMUM FASTENER SPACING
O.C. Maximum O.C. MaximumFraming spacing Installation style screw spacing Fram ing spacing Installation style screw spacing
Wood 16”O.C. Single panel w/screws 12”O.C. Multiple layers w/screws joists Base layer: 24”O.C. Single panel wladhesive & screws 16”O.C. Face layer: 12”a.C. Multiple layers w/screws Multiple layers w/adhesive & Screws: Base layer: 24”O.C. Face layer: 12”O.C. Base layer: 12”a.C. Face layer: 16” a.c. (at top & Multiple layers bottom only) w/adhesive & screws: Base layer: 12”O.C. Face layer: 12” G.C. (perimeter) Steel 16”O.C. Single panel w/screws 16”O.C. 16” O.C. (Iield) studs Multiple layers w/screws: Base layer: 24”O.C. Single panel w/screws 12”O.C. Parallel panels 24”O.C. Single panel w/adhesive Perpendicular *(See below) & screws 16”O.C. Face layer: 16’·O.C. Multiple layers w/screws 12’·O.C. Multiple layers w/adhesive & screws: Multiple layers Base layer: 24’·O.C. w/adhesive & screws: Face layer: 12” a.c. (perimeter) Base layer: 12’·O.C. 16” O.C. (field) Face layer: 12” a.c. (perimeter) 16” O.C. (field) Steel 24”O.C. Single panel w/screws 12”O.C. studs & Multiple layers w/screws: Wood 16”O.C. Single panel w/screws 16”O.C. resilient Base layer: studs channel: Single panel w/adhesive Parallel panels 24”O.C. walls Perpendicular *(See below & screws: Face layer: 12”O.C. Load-bearing partitions 24”O.C. Non-load-bearing Multiple layers w/adhesive partitions 24”O.C. & screws: Multiple layers w/screws Base layer: 24”O.C. Face layer: 12” a.c. (perimeter) Base layer: 24”O.C. 16·’ O.C. (field) Face layer: 16”O.C. Multiple layers w/adhesive & screws: Resilient 24”O.C. Single panel w/screws 12”O.C. Base layer: 16”O.C. channel: 16” O.C. (attop & ceilings Multiple layers w/screws: Face layer: Base layer: bottom only) Parallel panels 24”O.C. Perpendicular *(See below) 24”O.C. Single panel w/screws 12”O.C. Face layer: 12”O.C. Single panel w/adhesive Multiple layers w/adhesive & screws: & screws: Load-bearing partitions 16”O.C. Base layer: 24”O.C. Non-load-bearing Face layer: 12” a.c. (perimeter) partitions 24”O.C. 16’· O.C. (field) 1- *1 screw at each end and 1 screw centered in the field, at each fastener location . Note: The above information is subject to manufacturer installation specifications.
73
Hanging Standard Wallboard
Hanging wallboard is a project that can be com-
pleted quickly and easily with a little prep lanning
and a helping hand.
Planning the layout of pane ls will help you re-
duce waste and deal with problem areas . Where
possib le, install full panels perpendicu lar to the
framing to add strength and rigidity to walls and
ceilings. To save yourself time and trouble dur-
ing the finishing process, avoid joints where two
untapered panel ends are butted together.
These are difficult to finish because there's no
recess for the compound and tape. In small ar-
eas, you can avoid butt joints by installing long
sheets horizontally that run the full length of the
walls. Or you can hang the panels vertically,
which produces more seams that need taping
but eliminates butted end joints. If butted joints
are unavoidable, as they often are, stagger the
seams and locate them away from the center of
the wall , or install back blocking to help mask
their unflattering effects (see page 83).
If you're installing wallboard on both the ceilings
and the walls, do the ceilings first, so the wall
panels add extra support for the ceiling panels.
When it comes time to install the walls, hang all
full pane ls first, then measure and cut the re-
maining pieces about 1,a" too small, to allow for
easy fit.
In nearly every installation, you'll deal with
corners. For standard 90° corners, pane ls most
often can butt against one another. But otherUse a panel lifter to position wallboard for fastening. corners, such as those lacking adequate nailing Slide the front end of the lifter beneath the panel surfaces or that are prone to cracking, may re- edge, then rock backward with your foot to raise the quire the use of wallboard clips or specialty panel into place. beads. Wallboard is heavy. While it’s possible to hang wallboard by yourself, work with a helper when - ever possible. A wallboard lifter is also a time saver, simplifying installation to ceilings and the upper portion of walls. If you don’t want to rent a wallboard lift, you can make a pair of T- braces, called “Deadmen” (see page 59) to hold ceiling panels tight against framing for fastening.
Everything You Need
Tools: T-square, utility knife , wallboard saw, key-
hole say, wall board rasp, compass, screwg un orWhere untapered panel ends will be butted to- drill, wallboard lifter, rented wall board lift (for ceil- gether, bevel-cut the outside edges of each panel at ings), chalk line. 45”, removing about %-in . of material. This helps prevent the paper from creating a ridge along the Materials: Wall board panels, wallboard screws. seam. Peel off any loose paper from the edge.
74
How to Install Wallboard on Flat Ceilings …-..,;:— … ;;;::-
Snap a chalk line perpendicu- Measure to make sure the first panel will break on the center of a joist.1 lar to the joists, 48Ya’ from the starting wall. 2 If necessary, cut the panel on the end that abuts the side wall so the panel breaks on the next farthest joist. Load the panel onto a rented dry- wall lift, or use a helper, and lift the panel flat against the joists.
Position the panel with the After the first row of panels is Tip: Drywal l stilts bring you within3 leading edge on the chalk line and the end centered on a joist. 4 installed, begin the next row with a half-panel. This ensures that reach of ceilings, so you can fas- ten and finish the drywall without a Fasten the panel with appropri- the butted end joints will be stag- ladder. Stilts are commonly avail- ately sized screws and following gered between rows. able at rental centers and are sur- the fastener spacing shown on prisingly easy to use. page 73.
75How to Install Ceiling Panels Using a Deadman
Construct two 2 x 4 dead men (see page 59). As the helper supports the panel, use the other1 Lean one against the wall where the panel wil l be installed, with the top arm a couple inches below the 2 deadman to hoist the panel against the joists 24- in. from the back end. Place ladders at each dead- joists. Have a helper assist in lifting the panel and man location and adjust the panel’s position by placing the lead edge on the arm. Angle the dead- loosening the braces with one hand and moving the man to pin the panel flush against the joists , but don’t pane l with the other. Replace the braces and fasten use so much pressure you risk damage to the panel. the panel to the framing, following the fastener spac- ing shown on page 73.
How to Install Wallboard on Ceilings Using a Wallboard Lift =-~~~1~=::::;;;
Cut the first wallboard panel to size, if necessary , When the panel is within a few inches of the ceil-1 then rest the panel in the lift and pivot it into a hor- izontal position. Hoist the panel upward by rotating 2 ing , roll the lifter into position so the edges of the panel run along the center of a joist, then hoist the the wheel. Use adhesive to eliminate sagging panels pane l tight against the ceiling and secure it with wall- and a wal lboard lift to ease installation. board screws. with wallboard screws. On subse- quent panels, stagger panels so joints are offset.
76
Tips for Installing Floating Ceiling Joints
Use a “floating corner” to reduce the chances of For a ceiling with trusses, use wallboard clips to popped fasteners and cracks. Install the ceiling eliminate cracks caused by “truss uplift,” the sea- panel , locating the fi rst row of screws 7- in. from the sonal sh ifting caused by weather changes. Slip clips wa ll. Push the top edge of the wall panel against the on the edge of the panel pr ior to installation, then fas- ceiling to support the unfastened edge . Fasten the ten the clips to the top plate . Fasten the panel to the wa ll , locating the first row of screws 8-in. from the trusses not less than 18-in . from the edge of the ceiling . pane l.
..Use metal flashing to prevent cracks along the peak on that side to the framing . However, fasten the panels of pitched and cathed ral ceilings (left) and the ang le at the unfastened side to the flash ing only, us ing se lf- between pitched ceilings and sidewalls (right) . For taping steel screws. Drive the first row of screws into both applications , cut metal flashing 16-in.-wide and the framing not less than 12-in. from the “floating ” to the length of the joint, then bend it lengthwise to edge of the panels. NOTE: Flexible vinyl bead can also match the angle of the peak or corner. Fasten flash ing be used fo r corners prone to cracking. to the framing on one side only, then fasten the panels
77How to Install Wallboard on Wood-framed Walls
•
Measure from the wall end or With a helper or a wallboard1 corner to make sure the first panel will break on the center of the 2 lift, hoist the first panel tight against the ceiling, making sure 3 Measure, cut and install the re- maining panels along the up- per wall. Bevel panel ends slightly, stud. If necessary, trirn the sheet on the side edge is centered on a leaving a 1,.8” gap between them at the side or end that will be placed stud. Push the panel flat against the joint. Butt joints can also be in- in the corner. Mark the stud centers the frarn ing and drive the starter stalled using back blocking to cre- on the panel face and pre-drive screws to secure the panel. Make ate a recess (see page 83). screws at each location along the any cutouts, then fasten the fie ld top edge to facilitate fastening. of the panel, following the screw Apply adhesive to the studs, if spacing on page 73 . necessary (see page 73) .
Measure, cut and install the bottorn row, butting Variation : When installing wallboard vertically, cut 4 the panels tight to the upper row and leaving a W gap at the floor. Secure to the framing along the top each panel so it’s ‘2” shorter than the ceiling height to allow for expansion. (The gap will be covered by edge using the starter screws, then make all cutouts base molding.) Avoid placing tapered edges at out- before fastening the rest of the panel. side corners , which makes then difficu lt to finish .
78
How to Install Wallboard at Inside Corners
•• •Standard 90· inside corners are instal led with the Use a “floating corner” to reduce the chances of first panel butted against the framing and the adjacent popped fasteners and cracks. Instal l the first panel, pane l butted against the first. The screw spacing re- fastening only to within one stud bay of the corner. mains the same as on a flat wal l (see page 73). If the Push the leading edge of the adjacent panel against corner is out of plumb or the adjacent wall has an ir- the first to support the unfastened edge . Fasten the regular surface, see page 71 for cutting instructions. second panel normal ly, including the corner .
•Wallboard clips can be used at corners that lack an For off-angle corners, do not overlap panel ends. adequate nailing surface, allowing two panels to be Install so the panel ends meet at the corner with a \13” secured to the same stud. Slide clips onto the lead- gap between them. ing edge of the first panel, with the metal nailing flange outward. Install the panel, fastening the flange to the stud on the adjacent wall with 3/4” steel screws. Install the adjacent panel normally.
79How to Install Wallboard at Outside Corners
At outside corners, run panels long so they extend For standard 90· outside corners, instal l the fi rst past the corner framing. Fasten the panel in place, panel so the outs ide edge is flush with the framing, then score the backside and snap cut to remove the then install the adjacent panel so it overlaps the end waste piece. of the first panel.
,
•For off-angle corners or corners where bullnose For wallboard that abuts a finished edge, such as bead will be installed , no not overlap panel ends . In- pane ling or wood trim, install panels ‘;8” from the fin- stall each panel so it’s leading edge breaks ‘;8” from ished surface, then install a an L-bead to cover the the outs ide edge of the framing . NOTE: Bullnose beads exposed edge (see page 103). with a slight radius may requi re a larger reveal.
80
How to Install Wallboard Abutting a Finished Surface
Cut the J-bead (see page 96) to size, then posi- Cut a piece of wallboard to size, but let the end1 tion it flush against the finished surface. Fasten it to the adjacent framing with 3/4 -in . steel screws . Note: 2 run long for final trimming . Slide the end of the wal lboard into the J-bead (see page 96) unti l it fits Make sure to install J-bead that matches the thick- snugly , then fasten the pane l to the framing. Score ness of your wallboard. the backside flush with the face of the wall, then snap cut to remove the waste (opposite page).
Installing Wallboard On Gable Walls
Gables and cathedral ceilings present unique challenges when instal ling wallboard. A few pointers that wil l help you be successfu l include: use as many of the panel’s factory edges as possible; test-fit each piece di- rectly on the wall ; do not force pieces into place , but trim edges as needed instead; install pieces horizontally, with 2 x 4 blocking between the framing member; align horizontal seams, but not vertical seams- stagger these to minimize any twisting in the framing members .
81How to Install Wallboard on Steel Framed Walls
------
Installin~
direction
'.
••
Butt the next panel against the first, fastening the1 Position the first panel so you’ll attach it along the open ha lf of the stud rather than on the webbed side . This will make the stud more rig id and make it 2 panel end at the joint to the webbed side of the stud . Secure the top edge of the panel to the framing, easier to attach the adjoin ing panel. Fasten in the then make cutouts as needed (see pages 66 to 71) field and along the edges completely before installing before fastening the rest of the panel Continue in- the adjacent panel. For screw size and spacing , see stalling panels, making sure that seams are offset as page 73. you move up the wall.
Tips for Hanging Specialty Wallboard
Moisture-resistant wallboard is installed like standard wallboard, but Gypsum base, also called blue- with a few requirements: framing must be 16-in. O.C. for walls and 12-in. board, is a gypsum-core wallboard O.C. for ceilings . Space screws 12-in. O.C., or 8-in . O.C . if you’ re in- used as a base for veneer plaster stall ing tile . Do not install over a vapor barrier if you’ re using MR board as (see pages 128 to 133). Install as a tile backer. Treat all cut edges with a water-resistant tile adhesive or you would standard wallboard , with waterproof caulk before finishing with joint compound. the fo llowing exceptions : allow .B” clearance on all sides of cutouts, and space screws 12” O.C. on both walls and ceiling. 82
Installing Back Blockers
No matter how good a job you do installing and Although commercial back blockers are avail - finishing a butt joint, there ‘s always a chance it’ll able , you can easily make your own back be visible, even after a coat of paint or layer of blocker by attaching narrow strips of hardboard wallcovering. Wallboard panels can expand and to the edges of a 6-in. to 10-in. wide strip of 3/4” contract as the temperature and humidity in your plywood. When placed behind a wallboard butt home changes, causing butted panel ends to joint, the backer board will create a thin space , push outward and create ridges. While ridging into which the edges of the wallboard will be de- eventually stops (up to a year after installation), flected when it’s screwed to the back blocker. you can install back blocking to help prevent the The instructions below show a home-made back problem before it even starts. blocker in use. Back blocking creates a recessed butt joint by slightly bending panel ends into the bay between framing members, where they are secured to a Everything You Need floating blocking device with wallboard screws. Tools: Screwgun or 3”a-in. drill; to build your own: The result is a recessed joint that approximates tape measure, circular saw, hammer. a tapered joint and can be finished just as easily using standard techniques. And because the Materials: Wallboard panels, back blocker, wall- joint floats between framing members, it’s unlike board screws ; to build your own: 10” x 48” ply- to crack or ridge. Back blocking can be used for wood , Y4-in. x 3/4” x 48”. both walls and ceilings.
How to Install a Back Blocker
...
Hang the first wallboard panel so the end breaks Install the second panel so it butts against the first1 midway between the framing members. Position the back blocker behind the panel so the end covers 2 panel. Fasten the end of the second panel to the back blocker with wallboard screws every 6-in.; the half of the wood center strip , then fasten every 6-in. screws will pull the end of the panel into the blocker, along the end. creating the recessed joint.
83
Hanging Wallboard
in Multiple Layers
Installing wallboard in multiple layers is an effec-
tive means of soundproofing and also increases
the fire-rating of walls and ceilings. Wallboard
can be heavy, especially when installed in lay-
ers, so it's important to install panels correctly to
prevent sagging, cracks, and popped fasteners.
Always fasten both the base layer (which can be
standard wallboard or a soundproofing board)
and the face layer with the correct number of
screws (see page 73). Panels can be secured
with fasteners alone, though many manufactur-
ers recommend the use of panel adhesive. It's
best to install the base layer vertically and the
face layer horizontally, staggering the joints. If
panels must be hung in the same direction,
stagger parallel seams between layers by at
least 10"
See pages 44 to 49 for more on soundproofingSpecialty materials can help eliminate sound trans- walls and ceilings. mission better than wallboard alone. High-density gypsum and cellulose fiber soundproofing board (A) provides excellent noise attenuation. MLV (mass- Everything You Need loaded vinyl) sheeting (8) can double a wall’s sound- Tools: Tape measure, T-square , utility knife, dry- proofing value . Type-G wallboard screws (C) have wall saws, screwgun or 3k-in. drill, wallboard coarse threads to hold wallboard panels together as lifter, caulk gun. the panel adhesive (D) sets to create a strong bond. Acoustical caulk (E) seals gaps to absorb noise vi- Materials: Wallboard panels, wallboard screws, brations. And for added protection, install c losed cell acoustical caulk. foam gaskets (F) behind electrical coverp lates .
Face layerBuilding Code requires that the front face of electri- At inside corners, including wa ll-to-ceiling joints, cal boxes be flush with the finished wall surface. In stagger the joints between the layers, leaving a %’ new construction , attach boxes so they extend past gap between panels. Sea l all gaps with acoustical the framing the combined thickness of the wallboard cau lk to help absorb sound vibration . See pages 44 layers. If you’re covering an old surface , use exten- to 49 for more information. sion rings to bring existing boxes flush.
84
How to Hang Multiple Layers of Wallboard for Soundproofing
Install the base layer of wall- To install the face layer , use1 board or soundproofing board parallel to the framing, using the 2 adhes ive to ensure a strong bond to the base. Apply 3,{j’ beads 3 Install the face layer of wa ll - board perpendicular to the framing and joints of the base screws and spacing found on of adhesive every 16” across the layer , spacing screws as recom- page 73. Leave a ‘/4’ gap around backside of the panels. mended on page 73. Make sure to the perimeter of each surface (at stagger the seams between lay- corners, ceilings, and along ers. Use Type-G screws to tem- floors). After panels are installed , porarily hold panels together as seal the perimeter gaps with the adhesive sets up. acoustical caulk.
•Seal the perimeter gaps at corners , ceiling and Variation : If you’re installing wallboard to resilient 4 along floors with acoustical caulk. Also seal around electrica l boxes and HVAC ducts. steel channels (see page 47) , install the base layer panels perpendicular to the channels, and the face layer perpendicular to the base layer. For both layers, use type-S screws driven into the channels only, not into the framing .
85
Hanging Decorative Wallboard
Panels
Another option for adding decorative detail to
walls and ceilings is to use designer wallboard .
When installed, these panels replicate the look of
raised panel walls and ceilings. Designer wall -
board can be used to add a wainscot, bring inter-
est to upper walls , or create a coffered ceiling.
Designer wallboard is installed like standard
wallboard, though the layout must be carefully
planned . The raised panels need to be in align-
ment across the entire surface to look right.
Standard wallboard is used to fill strips between
or around panels , and all seams are finished us-
ing standard techniques. Do not get compound
in the raised-panel area of wallboard. If you do,
carefully clean it out immediately with a clean
wallboard knife and a damp towel.
Everything You Need
Tools: Tape measure, chalk li ne, T-square , utility
knife, wall board saws, caulk gun, screwgun or
3;8" dri ll, wallboard lifter.
Materials: Designer wall board panels, construc-
tion adhesive, wallboard screws.How to Install Decorative Wallboard Panels
When planning your designer wallboard installation, the key to a good layout is symmetry. Panels should be installed so the raised areas break at equal distances from the corners . Standard wa llboard can be used to fil l in between panels to create a workable layout. Treat both inside and outside corners similarly, so that the raised areas fall the same distance from the corner on each side of the wall. Panels also can be installed to “wrap ” in- side corners if necessary (opposite page) . Take carefu l measurements of your walls and ceilings and make ac- curate sketches to guide your project.
86
How to Install Decorative Wallboard Panels
Measure and mark the location of the first panel Instal l subsequent panels not only so the raised1 on the framing. At one end of the wall , measure and mark the top edge of the panel’s raised area. 2 top edge is level with the mason’s line , but also with an equal distance between the sides of the Drive a nail and run a level mason’s line across the raised areas of each panel. At corners, make sure to wall at I-in. from the framing. Install the first panel account for panel overlap when making cuts. with wallboard screws, so the top edge of the raised area is level with the mason’s line.
Variation: To wrap an inside corner, score the back After all designer panels are installed , finish the of a panel using a T-square and sharp utility knife, being carefu l not to pierce the front face of the panel. 3 rest of the wall and fil l gaps with standard wall- board of the same thickness. The designer panels Gently snap back the panel , leaving the face paper can be taped and fin ished in the same manner as intact. Fill the void with a bead of adhesive to rein- standard wallboard. At outside corners , install metal force the panel , then install it immediately. corner bead .
87
Hanging Wallboard on Curves
Curves and arches add an elegant touch to a
room , and the!, are easier than ever to create.
Two layers of Y4-in. flexible wallboard are in-
stalled over the framing (see pages 36 to 37) to
form curved walls and archways. If the radius of
the curve is less than 32-in., dampen the panels
before installing them (see below). The minimum
radius for inside (concave) curves is 20-in .;
the minimum for outside (convex) curves is 15-
in . NOTE : Bending limitations may vary by manu -
facturer.
When hanging wallboard on curved walls, it's
best to install the panels perpendicular to the
framing. Try to avoid joints. Though if it's un-
avoidable , vertical seams are much easier to
hide in the curve than horizontal seams. If pan-
els have been wetted for the installation, allow
them to dry thoroughly before taping seams.
Everything You Need
Tools: Tape measure, T-square, utility knife,
screwgun , paint roller and tray or spray bottle.
Materials: 1,14" flexible wallboard panels, 1%" wall-
board screws .
•Use two layers of %” flexible wallboard for curved Finish curved edges with flexib le vinyl corner bead , wal ls and arches. If there are butted seams , stagger which has one segmented flange that allows it to the seams between layers. bend. Install the bead as you wou ld standard corner bead , but drive a screw every 2’. To substitute for flexible bead, snip one flange of standard bead at 1” intervals. 88
How to Hang Flexible Wallboard
Start at the center for concave curves. Cut the fi rst Start at one end for convex curves. Cut the panel panel a little long and position it lengthwise along the long and fasten it lengthwise along the wall, bending wa ll . Carefully bend the panel toward the midpoint of the panel as you work. Add the second layer, then the cu rve and fasten it to the center stud. Work to- trim both to the framing. To cover the top of a curved ward the ends to fasten the rest of the panel. Install wall , set a 1,2” panel on the wall and scribe it from be- the second panel over the first , then trim along the low. top of the wall with a drywall saw .
How to Hang Wallboard on Archways
, ,Cut %” flexible wallboard to width and a couple Variation : Score the backs ide of 1/.2” wal lboard every inches longer then needed. Fasten to the arch with 1Y4” inch (or more for tighter curves) along the length of wa ll board screws , working from the cen ter out to the the piece. Starting at one end , fasten the piece along ends . Trim the ends of the piece and install a second the arch ; the scored wallboard will conform to the to match the th ickness of the su rrounding wallboard. arch.
89
~ -
,Adding Architectural Detail with Wallboard Wall board can be installed in layers or in conjunc- type-G screws to hold panels together while the tion with a 2x framework to bring a wide variety of adhesive sets up. Use L-bead to create sharp, architectural detail to a room. From a simple series clean panel ends. Finish all seams and beads of tiers wrapping the perimeter of a room (shown with joint tape and at least three coats of com- here) to curved soffits or raised panels on walls, pound , following standard finishing techniques. you can replicate designs you ‘ve seen in high-end See pages 84 to 85 for more information on in- homes or bring your own creation to life. stalling wallboard in multiple layers. The same basic technique used to hang wall- board in multiple layers applies to adding built- Everything You Need up wallboard detail. Use a sharp utility knife and a rasp for cutting as panel edges must be clean Tools: Tape measure, T-square , utility knife, wal l- for finishing. The use of adhesive is highly rec- board rasp, chalk line, screwgun or 3,a” drill. ommended to create strong bonds between lay- Materials: Wallboard, wallboard screws, L-bead. ers so the pieces hold together tightly. Use
Tips for Creating Built-up Wallboard Details
•For a more substantial step soffit, build a 2x framework as a base for the wallboard. As you layout the place- ment of the new framing, make sure to account for the thickness of the wallboard in all final dimensions.
90
How to Add Decorative Tiers to a Ceiling
Measure and mark the width of the first tier on the Cut pieces of wall board to size, apply 3;8’ beads 1 ceiling along each wall, then snap chalk lines to mark the perimeter. 2 of adhesive to the backside, and install with wall- board screws, fo llowing the spacing chart on page 73.
ISnap chalk lines for the second tier perimeter, then Install L-bead on al l exposed edges of each tier, 3 cut and install the wallboard as described in step 2. Stagger all seams at corners and along tier runs. 4 then finish with three coats of joint compound. Edges can also be finished with flex ible corner tape.
91
Hanging Cementboard
Use tile backer board as the substrate for tile
walls in wet areas. Unlike wallboard , tile backer
.. won 't break down and cause damage if water
gets behind the tile. The three basic types of tile
Fiber-cement backer are cementboard, fiber-cement board,
board ...... and Dens-Shield.
Though water cannot damage either cement-
board or fiber-cement board , it can pass through
them. To protect the framing members , install a
water barrier of 4-mil plastic or 15# building pa-
per behind the backer.
Dens-Shield has a waterproof acrylic facing that
provides the water barrier. It cuts and installs
much like wallboard, but it requires galvanized
screws to prevent corrosion and must be sealed
with caulk at all untaped joints and penetrations.
Everything You NeedCommon tile backers are cementboard , fiber-cement Tools: Utility knife , T-square , drill with a small board, and Dens-Shield. Cementboard is made from masonry bit, hammer, jig saw with a bimetal portland cement and sand reinforced by an outer layer blade , wallboard knife , stapler, drill. of fiberglass mesh. Fiber-cement board is made simi- Materials: 4-mil plastic sheeting, cementboard, larly, but with a fiber reinforcement integrated through- 11,14” cementboard screws, cementboard joint out the panel. Dens-Shield is a water-resistant gypsum tape, latex-portland cement mortar. board with a waterproof acrylic facing .
Staple a water barrier of 4-mil Cut cementboard by scoring Make cutouts for pipes and 1 plastic sheeting or 15# bu il ding paper over the framing. Overlap 2 through the mesh just below the surface, using a utility knife or 3 other penetrations by drilling a series of ho les through the board , seams by several inches, and carbide-tipped cutter. Snap the using a small masonry bit. Tap the leave the sheets long at the panel back, then cut through the hole out with a hammer or a scrap perimeter. NOTE: Framing for ce- back-side mesh (inset). NOTE: For of pipe. Cut ho les along edges mentboard must be 16” on-center; tile applications , the rough face of with a jig saw and bimetal blade. steel studs must be 20-gauge. the board is the front.
92
Install the sheets horizontally. Where possible, use full pieces to avoid Cover the joints and corners4 cut-and-butted seams, which are difficult to fasten. If there are verti- cal seams , stagger them between rows . Leave a ~” gap between sheets 5 with cementboard joint tape (alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh) at vertical seams and corners. Use spacers to set the bottom row of pan- and latex-portland cement mortar els Y4” above the tub or shower base. Fasten the sheets with 1 Y4” ce- (thin-set) . Apply a layer of mortar mentboard screws , driven every 8” for walls and every 6” for ceilings. with a wallboard knife , embed the Drive the screws 1/.2” from the edges to prevent crumbling. If the studs are tape into the mortar, then smooth steel, don’t fasten within 1” of the top track. and level the mortar.
Variation: Finishing Cementboard
Greenboard Paint
Paint
Ceramic tile
i.
adhesive
Tape
Skim-coated
joint compound
Ceramic Hie
adhesive
CementboardTo finish a joint between cementboard and green- To finish small areas of cementboard that will not board, seal the joint and exposed cementboard with be tiled , seal the cementboard with ceramic tile ad- ceramic tile adhesive, a mixture of four parts adhesive hesive , a mixture of four parts adhesive to one part to one part water. Embed paper joint tape into the water, then apply a skim-coat of all-purpose wall- adhesive , smooth ing the tape with a tape knife. Allow board joint compound, using a 12” wallboard knife. the adhesive to dry , then finish the joint with at least Then paint the wa ll. two coats of all-purpose wallboard joint compound.
93
.. ~ ":" .. - . .------------------~----
Finishing Wallboard Wallboard Fi nish Materials … … ......... 96
Tools for Finishing Wallboard … … … . ..... 98
Installing Corner Bead … … … . .. 100
Recommended Levels of Wallboard Finish … 104
Taping Wallboard Seams … … … … 106
Final Inspection & Fixing Problems … … .... 11 6
Sanding Wallboard … . … . … 118
Applying a Skim Coat … … … .... 122
Texturing Walls & Ceilings … . … . … 123
Applying Veneer Plaster … … … 128
95Wallboard Finish Materials Finishing wallboard is easily the more difficult board seams, as well as small holes and gaps. phase of surfacing walls and ceilings, but it’s a Without tape, thick applications of compound project well within the ability of any homeowner. are highly prone to cracking . There are two Armed with a basic understanding of the variety types of joint tape- paper and self-adhesive of finish materials available, you’ll be able to fiberglass mesh. walk out of your local home center or wallboard Pape r tape comes in 2-in.-wide rolls. It has a supplier with the exact supplies you need to crease down its center, making it easy to fold in cover all joints, corners and fasteners for a suc- half lengthwise for taping inside corners. Paper cessful wallboard finish project. tape can be used for all taping situations, but Corner bead is the angle strip, usually made of because it must be adhered to the wall with metal or vinyl , that covers a wall board corner, compound and is somewhat more difficult to creating a straight, durable edge where walls in- use, many wallboard installers use mesh tape on tersect. Most corner beads are installed over the all tapered seams. Paper tape is stronger than wallboard and are finished with compound. In mesh and is the better choice for taping butted addition to standard 90° outside-corner bead, seams and inside corners. Also available is pa- there ‘s an ever-growing variety of bead types per tape reinforced with a metal center strip for designed for specific situations and easy appli - finishing off-angle corners. cation. There are beads for inside corners, flexi- Fiberglass mesh tape comes in 2” and 21,‘2”-wide ble beads for off-angles and curves, J-bead and rolls and has an adhesive backing that sticks to L-beads for flat panel edges, and bullnose bare wallboard. This simplifies the taping coat be- beads for creating rounded inside and outside cause you can apply the tape before applying any corners. While metal beads are installed with compound. Store unused mesh tape in a plastic fasteners, vinyl beads can be installed with vinyl bag to prevent the adhesive from drying out. adhesive and staples, or be embedded in joint compound, using the same techniques for in- Fire-rated tape is another convenient self-adhe- stalling paper-faced beads. sive tape , used for surfaces that are finished just enough to meet fire codes. It doesn ‘t need a Joint tape is combined with joint com pound to coat of compound to achieve its fire rating. create a permanent layer that covers the wall-
Wallboard finishing products include metal, paper and vinyl outside corner beads (A), flexible corner bead for arches (B) , L- and J-beads (e), vinyl bullnose bead (D), fiber joint tape (E) , paper joint tape (F) Y,:” staples (G), vinyl adhesive spray (H) , paper-faced inside corner bead (I), fire-rated joint tape (J) .
96
Wallboard joint compounds include: setting-type joint compounds in 20-minute, 45-minute and gO-minute grades (A, B, C); fireproof taping compound (D); premixed all-purpose joint compound (E); premixed topping compound (F); premixed lightweight taping compound (G); premixed lightweight all-purpose joint compound (H).
Joint compound , commonly called mud, seals Ideally, you’ll use a setting -type compound for and levels all seams, corners, and depressions the tape coat , then a topping or all-purpose in a wallboard installation. It’s also used for skim compound for both the filler and final coats. But coating and some texturing treatments. There for small jobs and repairs it’s more convenient to are several types of compounds, with important use all-purpose compound for all three layers- differences among them, but the two main forms using one material versus three is less expen- are setting-type and drying-type. sive and less wasteful. Setting-type compound is sold in dry powder Estimating Materials form that is mixed with water before application. Because it dries through chemical reaction, set- The following tips will help you determine how ting compound dries quickly (from twenty min- much of each material you need for your project. utes to six hours, depending on the product) Add ten to fifteen percent to your estimate to and is virtually unaffected by humidity and tem- cover error and omissions . perature. Setting compounds generally shrink Corner Beads: Count the number of corners and less, bond better, and become harder than dry- the lengths of each, and purchase enough bead ing types, but they ‘re more difficult to sand, a to cover each in one piece. Beads are available characteristic that makes them a better choice in standard lengths of 6-ft. -1O-in. to 10 ft. for the taping coat than for the filler and final coats. Manufacturers now also offer lighter Joint Tape: Approx. 375 ft. of tape will finish weight setting compounds formulated to be eas- 1000 sq. ft. of wallboard. ier to sand. Compound: The following are estimates. Check Drying -type compounds dry through evaporation with the manufacturer for actual coverage infor- and usually take about 24 hours to dry completely. mation. For every 100 sq. ft. of wallboard, you ‘ll Available in dry powder and convenient premixed need ap prox .: forms in re-sealable one- and five-gallon buckets, • 1 gallon of pre-mixed drying-type compounds drying compounds are highly workable and con - (taping , topping , and all -purpose). sistent. There are three formulas of drying com- pound: “taping” is a hard -drying formula made • 8 Ibs. of powder drying-type compounds for the taping coat; “topping” is somewhat softer · 7.5 Ibs. of standard powder setting -type and is best for the filler and final coats; and “all- compounds purpose” is a compromise between the other • 5.5 Ibs . of lightweight powder setting-type two and is suitable for all coats. compounds
97Tools for Finishing Wallboard
A successful wallboard finish job is one that isn’t Don ‘t buy bottom-line or plastic knives , even for seen once the paint or wallcovering is applied . a small job, because the money saved won’t jus- Achieving a flawless finish is a lot easier when tify the frustration. you use the proper tools for the job . Joint com- Sanding completes the job. Professionals use a pound can be mixed with a ~- in . heavy-duty drill pole sander with replaceable fiberglass sanding and a mixing paddle, or by hand, using a hand screens- a versatile and effective tool, and quite masher. A mud pan holds the compound while handy for ceilings . For hand sanding, sanding you work. It fits nicely into your hand and has blocks and dry sanding sponges will take care sharp edges for scraping excess mud from tap- of the finish work, and a bright work light can ing knives . help draw attention to overlooked areas in need As for knives, the minimum you’ll need are a 6- of sanding. in . knife for ta ping and a 12-in . knife for the filler If you will be skim-coating surfaces, you ‘ll also and final coats- though a 4-in. taping knife is need a 5-gallon bucket for thinning down com- handy for tight spots, and some prefer a 10-in. pound and a paint roller with a tight-nap roller knife for the filler coat. There are a number of cover for application. Finally, kee p a few general specialty knives available that can help make tools on hand for making adjustments as you taping easier, such as a double-bladed knife for work , such as a utility knife for trimming tape or inside corners and angled knives for tight spots . panels at butt joints, and a screwdriver to drive Many wal lboard installers also find a 12-in. fin - protruding heads . ishing trowel handy for feathering the final coat.
Wallboard finishing tools include: 5-gallon bucket (A); hand/b lock sander (B) ; work light (C); joint tape dis- penser (D) ; mixing paddle (E) ; 12-in. finishing trowel (F); 6-in . ang led taping kn ife (G); insider corner taping knifes (H); wet sanding sponge (I); paint roller with tight-nap roller cover (J); ‘;2” drill (K); joint taping knives (4- in ., 6-in, 12-in.) (L) ; screwdriver (M) ; utility knife (N); dry sanding sponges (0); mud pan (P) ; tap ing knives (0); hand masher (R); 120-, 150-, 220-grit sanding screens and sandpaper; pole sander (5).
98
Equipment for Finic:hirln WallboardSanding systems can reduce airborne dust by up to Air compressors and sprayguns with handheld 95% . Most systems are available with both pole and hoppers are used to apply texture to walls and ceil- hand sanding attachments that connect to a wet/dry ings , and are available for rent. While they are rela- vacuum . Water filters are also available for catching tively easy to use, get an operator’s manual or lesson dust before it reaches the vacuum. at the rental center, then practice on a scrap of card- board before attempting your project.
How to Clean Wallboard Finishing Tools
Taping tools can be cleaned easily with water. Wipe down tools and allow to thoroughly dry to1 Use a garden hose to spray off taping knives, mud pans , and mixing paddles immediately after 2 prevent rust. Hang taping knives to store , so the blades will not be bent or damaged by other tools. use. Do not clean tools in a sink- compound can set- tle in pipes where it will harden and clog drains.
99
Installing Corner Bead
After the wallboard is hung , the next ste p is to in-
stall corner bead to protect outside corners , sof-
fits , wallboard-finished openings, and any other
outside angles . Corner bead provides a clean ,
solid -edge wall corner that can withstand mod-
erate abuse. It is availab le in a variety of styles
for a variety of applications (see page 96). The
three most common types are metal, vinyl and
paper-faced beads .
Metal beads can be fastened with nails, screws,
or a crimper tool. Vinyl beads are easily installed
with spray adhesive and staples , or can be em-
bedded in compound, similar to paper-faced
beads. See pages 110 to 111 for installing pa-
per-faced beads .
A number of specialty beads are also available,
including flexible archway beads for curved cor-
ners and J-bead for covering panel ends that
meet finished surfaces. Decorative bullnose
beads and caps for 2- and 3-way corners are
easy ways to add interesting detail to a room .
Everything You Need
Tools: Aviation snips, screwgun or dri ll, tape
measure, utility knife, stapler, screwdriver, hammer.Metal corner bead installed over steel framing can Materials: Corner bead, 11,4” wallboard screws, be fastened us ing a crimper tool. Cut the bead to spray adhesive (for vinyl bead) , )2” staples, arch- size and position in the corner (see Step 1 below), way bead, bu ll nose corner caps . then crimp ever 4-in . to 6-in.
How to Install Metal Corner Bead
Cut metal corner bead to length Starting at the top , fast en the Use full lengths of corner bead1 so there will be a Y,;” gap at the floor, using aviation snips. Position 2 bead flanges with 1y.” drywall screws, driven every 9” and about 3 where possible. If you must join to lengths , cut the two pieces to the bead so the raised spine is JI,” from the edge. Alternate sides size, though butt together the fin- centered over the corner and the with each screw to keep the bead ished ends. Make sure the ends are flanges are flat against both wal ls. centered . The screws must not perfectly aligned and the spine is project beyond the raised spine. straight along the length of the corner. File ends, if necessary.
100
Corner BeadCut vinyl bead to length and test fit over corner. Quickly install the bead, pressing the flanges into 1 Spray vinyl adhesive evenly along the entire length of the corner, then along the bead. 2 the adhesive. Fasten the bead in place with 1/2- in . staples every 8-in.
How to Install Corner Bead at Two- and Three-way Corners
Where two or more outside cor- Fasten the first bead in place , Tip: Blunt any sharp edges or1 ners meet , trim back the over- lapping flanges of each bead to 2 then test fit each subsequent piece, trimming any overlapping points created by metal bead at three-way corners , using a metal 45° mitered ends, using aviation flanges. Align the tips of the two file. snips. The ends don’t have to pieces and fasten in place . Install match perfectly , but they should additional beads in the same way. not overlap.
101How to Install Flexible Bead for an Archway
Install standard corner bead on the straight len~ths Flatten flexib le vinyl bead along the archway to1 of the corners (see pages 100 to 101) , so it is W from the floor and 2-in. from the start of the arch . 2 determine the length needed , then add 3” . Cut two pieces of bead to this length , one for each side of the archway.
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Spray one side of the archway with vinyl adhe- Variation : To substitute for flexible bead , snip one3 sive, then spray the bead . Immediately install the bead- work from one end, pushing the bead tight flange of standard vinyl bead at 1-in. intervals . Be careful not to cut into or through the spine. into the corner along the arch. Secure with ‘a-in. sta- ples every 2-in. Trim the overlapping end so it meets the end of the straight length of corner bead .
102
How to Install L-Bead
L-bead caps the ends of wallboard panels that Fasten L-bead to the wallboard with '/.2" staples or1 abut finished surfaces, such as paneling or wood trim, providing a finished edge. The wallboard is in- 2 wa llboard screws every 6-in., then finish with a minimum of three coats of compound (see pages 110 stalled ‘18” from the finished surface, then the L-bead to Ill) After final sanding , peel back the protective is positioned tight against the wallboard, so its fin- strip to expose the finished edge of the L-bead. ished edge covers the edge of the adjacent surface .
Tips for Installing Vinyl Bullnose Corner Bead
Bullnose vinyl corner bead is installed with vinyl ad- Wallboard manufacturers offer a variety of corner hesive and W staples, just like standard vinyl bead caps to ease the finishing process of soffits and other (see page 101). However, bullnose beads that have openings trimmed out with wa ll board . shallow curves may require that the ends of wall- board panels be cut back (inset) .
103Recommended Levels of Wallboard Finish The main purpose of finishing wallboard is to excess joint compound. Tool marks and ridges create an acceptable base surface for the de- are acceptable.” sired decorative finish. For example, walls and Frequently specified in plenum areas above ceil- ceiling that will be illuminated by bright light, or ings, in attics, in areas where the assembly finished with gloss paint or thin wallcovering re- quire a smooth, consistent surface to prevent would generally be concealed or in bu ilding ser- taped seams, covered fastene rs and minor im- vice corridors, and other areas not normally perfections from showing through, a condition open to public view. Accessories (beads, trims, termed as “photographing” (see page 122). On or moldings) optional at specifier discretion in the other hand, surfaces that will be sprayed with corridors and other areas with pedestrian traffic. a texture don’t need as polished a wallboard fin- Some degree of sound and smoke control is ish, and areas that only need to meet fire codes provided; in some geographic areas th is level is may be acceptable with a single tape coat. referred to as “firetaping.” Where a fire -resistance For years, there were no universal guidelines for rating is required for the gypsum board assembly, what was considered an “acceptable” wallboard details of construction shall be in accordance with finish, which often left contractors and home- reports of fire tests of assemblies that have met owners at odds over what “industry standard fin - the fire-rating requirement. Tape and fastener ish” actually meant. But recently four major trade heads need not be covered with joint compound. associations devised a set of guidelines that Level 2 have been accepted industry-wide. Below are their recommendations for finishing wallboard, “All joints and interior angles shall have tape em- as found in document GA-2 14-96, entitled “Rec- bedded in joint compound and wiped with a ommended Leve ls of Gypsum Board Finish.” joint knife leaving a thin coating of joint com- Each entry describes the minimum level of finish pound over all joints and interior angles. Fas- recommended. The full document can be down- tener heads and accessories shall be covered loaded from the Gypsum Association’s website with a coat of joint compound. Surface shall be (gypsum.org/downloads.html). free of excess joint compound. Tool marks and ridges are acceptable. Joint compound applied Level 0 over the body of the tape at the time of tape em- “No taping, finishing, or accessories requ ired .” bedment shall be considered a separate coat of jOint compound and shall satisfy the conditions This level of finish may be useful in temporary of this level.” construction or whenever the final decoration has not been determined. Specified where water-resistant gypsum backing board (ASTM C 630) is used as a substrate for Level 1 tile ; may be specified in garages, warehouse “All joints and interior angles shall have tape storage, or other similar areas where surface ap- set in joint compound. Surface shall be free of pearance is not of primary concern.
Level 0 Level 1
104
Level 3 light textures tend to reduce joint photographing. Gloss, semi -gloss, and enamel paints are not “All joints and interior angles shall have tape em- recommended over this level of finish. bedded in joint compound and one additional coat of joint compound applied over all joints The weight, texture, and sheen level of wallcov- and interior angles. Fastener heads and acces- erings applied over this level of finish should be sories shall be covered with two separate coats carefully evaluated. Joints and fasteners must of joint compound. All joint compound shall be be adequately concealed if the wallcovering ma- smooth and free of tool marks and ridges. Note: terial is lightweight, contains limited pattern, has It is recommended that the prepared surface be a gloss finish, or any combination of these fin - coated with a wallboard primer prior to the appli- ishes is present. Unbacked vinyl wallcoverings cation of final finishes. See painting/wallcovering are not recommended over this level of finish. specification in this regard .” LevelS Typ ically specified in appearance areas which are to receive heavy- or medium-texture (spray “All joints and interior angles shall have tape em- or hand applied) finishes before final painting, or bedded in joint compound and two separate where heavy-grade wallcoverings are to be ap- coats of joint compound applied over all flat pl ied as the final decoration. This level of finish is joints and one separate coat of joint compound not recommended where smooth painted surfaces applied over interior angles. Fastener heads and or light to medium wallcoverings are specified. accessories shall be covered with three sepa- rate coats of joint compound. A thin skim coat of Level 4 joint compound or a material manufactured es- “All joints and interior angles shall have tape em- pecially for this purpose, shall be applied to the bedded in joint compound and two separate entire surface. The surface shall be smooth and coats of joint compound applied over all flat free of tool marks and ridges. NOTE: It is recom- joints and one separate coat of joint compound mended that the prepared surface be coated applied over interior angles. Fastener heads and with a wallboard primer prior to the application accessories shall be covered with three sepa- of finish paint. See painting specification in this rate coats of joint compound. All joint compound regard.” shall be smooth and free of tool marks and ridges. NOTE: It is recommended that the pre- This level of finish is highly recommended where pared surface be coated with a wallboard primer gloss, semi-gloss, enamel, or non-textured flat prior to the application of final finishes. See paints are specified or where severe lighting painting/wallcovering specification in this conditions occur. This highest quality finish is the regard.” most effective method to provide a uniform sur- face and minimize the possibility of joint pho- This level should be specified where flat paints, tographing and of fasteners showing through the light textures, or wallcoverings are to be applied. final decoration. In critical lighting areas, flat paints applied over
Level 2 Levels 3, 4, 5
105Taping Wallboard Seams Taping
Finishing newly installed drywall is satis-
fying work that requires patience and
some basic skill, but it’s easier than most
people think. Beginners make their
biggest, and most lasting, mistakes by
-
rushing the job and applying too much
compound in an attempt to eliminate coats. •
But even for professionals, drywall finishing •
involves three steps, and sometimes more,
plus the final sanding.
The first step is the taping coat, when you
tape the seams between the drywall panels.
The taping is critical to the success of the entire
Filler
job, so take your time here, and make sure the coat
tape is smooth and fully adhered before it’s al-
lowed to dry. If you’re using standard metal cor- Final coat
ner bead on the outside corners, install it before
starting the taping coat; paper-faced beads go
on after the tape. The screw heads get covered time is dependent on a number of factors, such
with compound at the beginning of each coat. as size of project and type of compound used ,
but for most finishing projects, count on one day
After the taping comes the second, or filler, coat. per coat- a total of three days. Refer to the
This is when you leave the most compound on manufacturer’s instructions for product specifi-
the wall, filling in the majority of each depres- cations. To speed up the process, compound
sion. With the filler coat, the walls start to look accelerants are available.
pretty good, but they don’t have to be perfect;
the third coat will take care of minor imperfections. Before you begin, make sure all wallboard pan-
Lightly sand the second coat, then apply the final els are hung correctly, all corner beads are in
coat. If you ‘re still left with imperfections, add more place, and all damaged area are repaired. Use
compound before sanding. a screwdriver to drive any protruding screw
heads. Finally, make sure the work area is free
For best results, use a setting -type compound and clear of any unnecessary obstacles, tools,
for the taping coat. It creates a strong bond and and materials.
shrinks very little. Because setting -type com-
pound hardens by chemical reaction , once it be- As you work, keep your compound smooth and
gins to set up the process cannot be slowed or workable by mixing it in the mud pan frequently,
stopped, rendering excess compound unusable. folding it over with the drywall knife. Try to remove
Make sure to prepare only as much setting-type dried chunks, and throwaway any mud that gets
compound as you can use in the amount of work funky or has been added to and scraped off the
time specified by the manufacturer. Choose wall too many times. Always let your compound
lightweight setting-type compound because it is dry completely between coats. If you have a
easier to sand. large ceiling area to finish, it may be practical to
rent a pair of drywall stilts.
For the other two coats, use an all -purpose com -
pound. These drying-type compounds are avail-
able premixed and can be thinned with water if Everything You Need
setup begins prematurely. Add small amounts of Tools: Screwdriver; utility knife; 5-gallon bucket;
water to avoid over-thinning and mix using a )2” electric drill with mixing paddle; hand
hand masher If compound is too thin, add thicker masher; 4”, 6”,10”, and12” taping knives; inside
compound from another container. Remix peri - corner taping knife ; mud pan.
odically if the liquid begins to separate and rise to
the top. If pre-mixed compound is moldy or foul - Materials: Setting-type joint compound (for tape
smelling, it is unusable and must be discarded. coat), all-purpose compound (for filler and finish
coat), cool potab le water, paper joint tape, se lf-
Allow each coat of compound to set up and dry adhesive fiberglass mesh tape .
thoroughly before applying the next coat. Setting
106
How to Prepare Joint Compound
Mix powdered setting-type compound with cool, Use a heavy-duty drill with a mixing paddle to thor-1 potable water in a clean 5-gal. bucket, following the manufacturer’s directions . All tools and materia ls 2 oughly mix compound to a stiff, yet workable con- sistency (see below). Use a low speed to avoid must be clean- dirty water, old compound , and other whipping air into the compound. Do not overwork set- contaminants will affect compound set time and quality. ting-type compound , as it wi ll begin setup . For pow- dered drying-type compound, rem ix after fifteen minutes. Clean tools thoroughly immediately after use.
Use a hand masher to loosen premixed compound. Joint compound should appear smooth in consis- If the compound has been around a while and is stiff , tency and stiff enough so as not to slide off a trowel add a little water and mix to an even consistency. or taping knife.
107How to Annlll Coat
I •
Inspect the entire drywall installation and fill any Using a 4-in. or 6-in. taping knife, smear com- 1 gaps wider than ‘/4” with compound. Smooth off excess compound so it’s flush with the panel face. 2 pound over each screw head , forcing it into the depression. Firm ly drag the knife in the opposite di- Also remove any loose paper from damaged areas rection , removing excess compound from the panel and fill in with compound . surface.
Variation: Cover an entire row of On tapered seams , apply an Center the tape over the seam screw heads in the field of a panel with one steady , even pass of 3 even bed layer of setting-type compound over the seam , about 4 and lightly embed it in the compound, making sure the tape compound. Use a 6-in. taping ‘;a-in. thick and 6-in. wide , using a is smooth and straight. At the end knife and app ly a thin coat. 6-in. taping knife. Note: With paper of the seam , tear off the tape so it tape, you can also use premixed extends all the way into inside cor- taping or all-purpose compound. ners and up to the corner bead at outside corners .
108
Smooth the tape with the taping knife, wo rking out At inside corners, smooth the fina l bit of tape by5 from the center. Apply enough pressure to force compound from underneath the tape, so the tape is 6 reversing the knife and carefu lly pushing it toward the corner. Carefully remove excess compound along flat and has a thin layer beneath it. the edges of the bed layer with the taping knife.
•
• •
On butt seams, apply an even 1..1J-in. thick, 4-in.7 wide bed layer of setting-type compound, using a 6-in. taping knife. Work in one direction and com- 8 Center the tape over the butt seam, and lightly embed it in the compound. As you smooth the tape, app ly only enough pressure to leave a 1/16-in. pletely fill the V-notch. layer of compound beneath the tape, then apply a thin layer of compound over the tape. Smooth the edges to remove excess compound .
(continued next page)
109
Tape inside corners by folding precreased paper Apply an even layer of setting-type compound ,9 tape in half to create a 90’ angle. 10 about 1”s-in. thick and 3-in. wide , to both sides of the corner, using a 4-in. taping knife. Embed the tape into the compound , using your fingers and a taping knife .
Carefully smooth and flatten Tip: An inside corner knife can Variation: Paper-faced metal in-11 both sides of the tape, re- moving excess compound to embed both sides of the tape in one pass- draw the knife along side corner bead produces straight, durable corners with little fuss. To leave only a thin layer beneath . the tape, applying enough pres- install the bead , embed it into a thin Make sure the center of the tape is sure to leave a thin layer of com- layer of compound, then smooth aligned straight with the corner. pound beneath . Feather each side the paper, as with a paper-tape in- using a straight 6-in. taping knife, side corner. if necessary.
110
Finish outside corner bead with a 6" kn ife . Apply Variation : To install paper-faced outside corner12 the compound whi le dragg ing the kn ife along the raised spine of the bead. Make a second pass to bead , spread an even layer of compound on each side of the corner, using a 6” tap ing knife. Press the feather the outside edge of the compound, then a third bead into the compound and smooth the paper dragg ing along the bead again . Smooth any areas flanges with the knife. where the corner bead meets taped corners or seams.
How to Apply Mesh Tape
To use self-adhesive mesh tape on seams , apply Coat the mesh with an even layer of compound ,1 the tape over the seam center so it’s straight and flat. Run mesh tape to corners , then cut using a 2 about 11il-in. thick, using a 6-in. taping knife. Smooth the joint with a 10-in. or 12-in. knife, removing sharp utility knife. excess compound. NOTE : Use setting-type com- pound or drying-type taping compound.
111How to Apply the Filler Coat
After the taping coat has dried complete ly, scrape Apply an even layer of compound to both sides of 1 off any remaining ridges and chunks , then sec- ond-coat the screw heads, using a 6-in. taping kn ife 2 each inside corner, us ing a 6-in. taping knife. Smooth one side at a time, holding the blade about 150 and al l-purpose compound (see page 108). Note: from horizontal and lightly dragging the point along the Setting-type compound and drying-type topping corner. Make a second pass to remove excess com- compound are also acceptable. pound along the outer edges . Repeat, if necessary.
Coat tapered seams with an After feathering both side For butt seams, use the same3 even layer of all-purpose com- pound, using a 12-in. taping knife. 4 edges of the compound , make a pass down the center of the 5 technique as for tapered seams, however, feather the Whenever possible, app ly the seam, applying even pressure to edges out 8-in. to 10-i n. on each coat in one direction and smooth the blade. This pass should leave side to help mask the seam. Apply it in the opposite. Feather the the seam smooth and even, with compound in thin layers and sides of the compound first , hold- the edges feathered out to noth- smooth out as needed. in g the blade almost flat and ap- ing . The joint tape should be com- plying pressure to the outside of pletely covered. the blade , so the blade just skims over the center of the seam .
112
Second-coat the outside corners, one side at a time , using a 12" knife. Apply an even layer of compound ,6 then feather the outside edge by applying pressure to the outs ide of the knife- enough so that the blade flexes and removes most of the compound along the edge but leaves the corner intact. Make a second pass with the blade riding along the raised spine, applying even pressure .
How to Apply the Final Coat
After the filler coat has dried , lightly sand all of the wider than the joints in the filler coat. Remove most of 1 joints (see pages 118 to 121), then third-coat the screws. Apply the final coat , following the same steps the compound , filling scratches and low spots but leaving only traces elsewhere. Make several passes , if used for the filler coat but do the seams first, then the necessary, unti l the surface is smooth and there are outside corners , followed by the inside corners. Use a no knife tracks or other imperfections. Carefu lly blend 12” knife and spread the compound a few inches intersecting joints so there’s no visible transition .
113How to Flat Tape
Trim any loose paper along the drywall edge with Cover the tape with a 4"-wide layer of setting-type1 a utility knife. If the gap between the drywall and the object is wider than 1/4”, fill it with joint compound 2 or premixed taping compound. Smooth the joint, leaving just enough compound to conceal the tape. and let it dry. Cover the joint with self-adhesive mesh Let the first coat dry completely, then add two more joint tape, butting the tape’s edge against the object thin coats, using a 6” taping knife . Feather the outside without overlapping the object. edge of the joint to nothing.
How to Round Inside Corners
•
To soften off-ang le inside corners , round them off. Lightly drag the knife across the seam, perpen-1 Center self-adhesive fiberglass mesh tape over the seam, and smooth it flat. Apply a W thick layer of 2 dicular to the mesh tape , to sculpt a rounded base for the filler coat. Work in the same direction, compound 4-in. wide along each side of the mesh , along the entire length of the seam, then make a sec- using a 6-in. taping knife. Note: Use setting-type ond pass, pulling the knife across in the opposite di- compound to prevent significant shrinkage . rection.
114
,Once the tape is completely covered , smooth out After the tape coat is dry, apply another ‘AI” layer 3 any ridges and feather the edges of the com- pound along the length of the seam. 4 of setting-type compound along the seam , then use a 12” taping knife to create the rounded corner, following the same technique as in step 2.
,,. . . . . ..
..............................
. ...
, •••••• a ••••••• _.' •••••• • •• • •••
After the fill coat has dried, lightly sand ridges Variation : Flexible corner beads are available for off-5 and high spots (see pages 118 to 121), then ap- ply a thin layer of all-purpose or topping compound angle joints that are prone to cracking, such as those between pitched ceilings and flat kneewalls. The vinyl for the final coat, following the same technique as for center crease flexes along with normal structural shifts. the previous two coats . Install flexib le bead with adhesive or embed it in com- pound; keep the center crease free of compound.
115
Final Inspection & Fixing
Problems
After the final coat of joint compound has dried
but before you begin sanding, inspect the entire
finish job for flaws. [f you discover scrapes, pit-
ting , or other imperfections, add another coat of
joint compound. Repair any damaged or over-
looked areas such as cracked seams and over-
cut holes for electrical boxes prior to sanding.
During your inspection , make sure to check that
al[ seams are acceptably feathered out. To check
seams, hold a level or 12-in . taping knife per-
pendicu [ar[y across the seam; fill concave areas
with extra [ayers of compound and correct any
convex seams that crown more than 1,116".
Everything You Need
Too[s: 6-in. and 12-in. taping knives , sanding
block or pole sander.
Materia[s: A[[-purpose joint compound , se[f-ad-Scratches, dents, and other minor imperfections can hesive fiberglass mesh tape , 220-grit sanding be smoothed over with a thin coat of all-purpose screen or 150-grit sandpaper. compound.
How to Fix Common Taping Problems
Pitting occurs when compound is overmixed or ap- Mis-cut holes for electrical boxes can be flat taped. plied with too little pressure to force out trapped air Cover the gap with self-adhesive mesh tape and bubbles. Pitting can be corrected easily with a thin cover with three coats of all-purpose compound. Pre- coat of compound . If trapped air bubbles are present, cut repair patches are also available. sand lightly before covering with compound.
116
IConcave seams can be filled with an extra layer or For seams crowned more than ‘116”, carefully sand two of all -purpose compound, repeating the filler and along the center (see pages 118 to 121), but do not final coats (see pages 112 to 113). expose the tape. Check the seam with a level. If it’s still crowned , add a layer of compound with a 12” knife , removing all of it along the seam’s center and feathering it out toward the outside edges. After it dries , apply a final coat, if necessary.
(Bubbled or loose tape occurs when the bed layer is Cracked seams are often the result of compound too thin, which causes a faulty bond between the that has dried too quickly or shrunk. Retape the seam tape and compound. Cut out small, soft areas wi th a if the existing tape and compound is intact; otherwise, util ity knife and retape. Large runs of loose tape will cut out any loose material . In either case, make sure have to be ful ly removed before retaping. to fill the crack with compound.
117
GapsSeam that crown or recess more than 1/ 16” should Tip : As you work, if you over-sand or discover low be corrected with another coat of compound before spots that require another coat of compound , mark sanding. To correct crowned and recessed seams, the area with a piece of painter’s tape for repair after see page 117. you finish sanding. Make sure to wipe away dust so the tape sticks to the surface.
Sanding Wallboard Sanding is the final step in finishing wallboard. pound to repair. Do not use power sanders on The goal is to remove excess joint compound wallboard; they are too difficult to control. A sec- and crowned seams, smooth out tool and lap ond’s hesitation can remove too much com- marks, and feather the edges so they blend into pound or even mar pane ls. the panel surface. Anywhere there is joint com - Sanding wallboard is a messy job. The fine dust pound, you must sand. How much sanding is re- generated will easily find its way into all areas of quired depends on the quality of the taping job the home if the work area is not contained. Sealing and the level of finish you need for the final dec- all doorways and cracks with sheet plastic and oration (see pages 104 to 105). masking tape will help prevent dust from leaving Sanding wallboard is a two-step process: Pole the work zone, however wet sanding may be more sanding to remove excess compound and practical in some instances. With wet sanding, or feather edges, and hand sanding to take care of sponging, the abrasive papers and screens are re- the final smoothing work. placed by a damp sponge that is used to smooth the water-solub le compound and blend it with Pole sanders have a flat head on a swivel that the surface. Very little dust becomes airborne. holds sandpaper or sanding screen . The length of the pole keeps you distanced from dust and But if your goal is to eradicate dust, your best brings ceiling seams within reach. You don’t have bet is to use a dust-free sanding system. Avail- to apply much pressure to get results , simply push able at most rental centers , dust-free systems the head along the seam and let the weight of contain hoses with sanding attachments that the tool do the work. You can use 120-grit sanding connect to a wet/dry vacuum to cut dust by screen or sandpaper for joints finished with all - nearly ninety-five percent. A water filter can be purpose compound , though use 150-grit on light- added to the system to capture most of the dust weight or topping compounds , which are softer. and spare your vacuum’s filter. Hand sanding can be done with a block sander Everything You Need or dry sanding sponge. The object of this step is to smooth all the joints and create a uniform sur- Tools: Swivel-joint pole sander, hand-sander face , so again you need not apply much pres- block, work light, dry sanding sponge , wet sure to get the job done. Use 150- to 220-grit sanding sponge, wet/dry shop vacuum, broom, sanding screen or sandpaper for final sanding. dust mask, eye goggles. As you work , make sure to sand only the com- Materials Sheet plastic, 2-in. (blue) painter’s pound rather than the panels. Face paper can tape, 120- and 150-grit sandpaper or 220-grit scuff easily, necessitating a thin coat of com- sanding screen.
118
How to Minimize Dust
----------------
Use sheet plastic and 2-in. masking tape to help Prop a fan in an open window so it b lows outside to confine dust to the work area. Cover all doorways, help pu ll dust out of the work area during sanding. cabinets, built-ins, and any gaps or other openings Only open one window in the space to prevent a with plastic , sealing all four edges with tape- the fine cross-breeze. dust produced by sanding can find its way through the smallest cracks .
How to Sand Wallboard
Prior to sanding, knockdown Lightly sand all seams and outside corners, using a pole sander with 1 any ridges, chunks or too l marks, using a 6-in . taping knife . 2 220-grit sand ing screen or 150-grit sandpaper. Work in the direction of the joints, applying even pressure to smooth transitions and high ar- Do not apply too much pressure- eas. Don’t sand out depressions ; fi ll them with compound and resand . Be you don ‘t want to dig into the com- careful not to over-sand or expose joint tape. pound, only remove the excess.
119How to Sand Wallboard (continued)
Inside corners often are finished with only one or Fine-sand the seams, outside corners , and fas-3 two thin coats of compound OVer the tape. Sand the inside edge of joints only lightly and smooth the 4 tener heads using a sand ing block with 150- to 220-grit sanding sc reen or sandpaper. As you work, outside edge carefully; inside corners will be sanded use your hand to feel for defects along the com- by hand later. pound. A bright work light angled to high light seams can help reveal problem areas .
To avoid damage from over-sanding, USe a 150- For tight or hard-to-reach corners, fold a piece of 5 grit dry sanding sponge to sand inside corners. The sides of sanding sponges also contain grit, al- 6 sand ing screen or sandpaper in th irds and sand the area carefully. Rather than using just your finger- lowing you to sand both sides of a corner at once to tips , try to fl atten your hand as much as possible to help prevent over-sanding. spread out the pressure to avoid sanding too deep.
120
If necessary, repair depressions, scratches or ex- With sanding complete , remove dust from the7 posed tape due to over-sanding after final sand- ing is complete. Wipe the area with a dry cloth to 8 panels with a dry towel or soft broom. Use a wet- dry vacuum to clean out all electrical boxes and remove dust, then apply a thin coat of all-purpose around floors, windows, and doors, then carefully ro ll compound. Allow to dry thoroughly, then resand. up sheet plastic and discard. Finally, damp mop the floor to remove any remaining dust.
How to Wet Sand Wallboard
Variation: Wet sanding is a dust-free alternative to dry Variation : Dust-free sanding systems come with both sanding. Use a high-density sponge made for wet pole and hand sanding attachments that connect di- sanding. Saturate it with cool, clean water, and wring rectly to your wet/dry vacuum or to a water filter that it out just enough so it doesn’t drip. Swipe joints and captures the bulk of the dust, keeping your vacuum’s corners in the direction they run , and rinse the sponge filter clean . frequently. Sponge sparingly, to avoid streaking.
121
Applying a Skim Coat
Joint compound and wallboard face paper have
different porosities , which cause each to absorb
paint and other decorative finishes differently. If
taped walls and ceilings are not properly
primed, seams and fastener heads can show
through the finished paint job. This is called
"photog raph ing" and is readily apparent on sur-
faces that are under bright light or that are cov-
ered with high -gloss paint.
To combat photog raphing, apply a skim coat of
thinned-down joint compound. A skim coat
evens out surface textures to create a smooth,
perfectly primed surface. Use all -purpose com -
pound or drying-type topping compound for
skim coating. Avoid setting-type compounds- if
they dry too quickly they may not properly bond
with the surface.
Everything You Need
Tools: Heavy-duty drill with paddle mixer, 5-gal.
bucket, paint screen or roller pan, paint roller, 12"
to 14" taping knife.Photographing is the term used to describe taped Materials: Premixed all-purpose or drying-type seams that show through painted walls and ceilings. topping compound , clean potable water. It’s caused by improperly primed taped surfaces .
How to Apply a Skim Coat ,…—…”..
Thin compound with cool water Apply a thin coat of compound Once a section is covered with1 to a paint-like consistency, us- ing a drill and mixing padd le. Pour 2 to the taped surface using a paint roller with a thin nap. Work in 3 compound , smooth the surface using a 12-in. to 14-in. taping compound into a ro ller tray. NOTE: small sections so compound does- knife. Work from the top down, ap- Use all-purpose compound or dry- n’t dry before you can smooth it. plying enough pressure to leave a ing-type topping compound. thin film of compound over the sur- face and remove ridges.
122
,, . \.' !'
·~ '(
r •
}
•Texturing Walls & Ceilings Wall and ceiling textures can take many forms Texture products typically contain a and today’s texturing products make it easy to’ lot of water and can be heavy if ap- create a range of effects-from acoustical spray plied In thick coats. Drywalled ceilings textures to custom hand-troweled designs. that receive a popcorn texture or heavy coats of compound must be adequately sup- Most textures are applied using hand tools, such ported to resist sagging. Standard 1,-2” drywall as paint rollers and drywall knives, or pneumatic panels should be attached to joists that are 16” texturing guns, which you can find at rental cen- on-center. Where framing is 24” on-center, the ters. Spray equipment is not difficult to use, but drywall should be %” standard or 1,.2” ceiling make sure to get operating instructions or a les- panels. TextUring IS not recommended on ceil- son at the rental center. If you are hand-applying ings with 3;8” drywall. a texture on a ceiling, you may want to rent a pair of drywall stilts. Before texturing, prepare new walls and ceilings with a coat of flat, white latex wall paint (or use a Home centers and paint stores carry a wide vari - base-coat product made specifically for textur- ety of dO-It-yourself texturing products. One of Ing). If you’re texturing old surfaces , consult the the easiest to use is texture paint, because it manufacturer regarding prep work. To ensure combines a paint base (usually white) with tex- ture additives and doesn’t need to be painted af- consistent drying , texture when the air tempera- ture , the wall or ceiling surface, and the texture ter it’s applied. You can also buy dry additives material are at least 55°F. Ventilate the room only separately and mix them into the paint of your after application, and don’t use heaters to speed choice. For many texture treatments, you can the drying process. also use all-purpose drywall compound, thinning It with water, If deSired. Textures made with com- pound must be painted , however.
123Tips for Protecting Surfaces from Overspray
Before spraying ceilings, cover walls with sheet For wall applications, cover windows , doors, and plastic. Press the top half of 2-in. painter’s tape along any other openings with sheet plastic and painter’s the joint between the ceiling and the wall, then hang tape to seal around the edges. Make sure to cover all plastic under the tape. After spraying, remove the jambs as oversprayed texture can make trim installa- loose edge as soon as the texture beg ins to setup. tion more difficu lt.
Use drop cloths to protect floors Stuff fiberglass insulation into Spraying texture onto wal ls and and for easy clean-up. Cover the electrical boxes and HVAC ducts ceilings is a messy job. Wear long entire floor area , over lapping drop to protect wiring and ducting. sleeves and ful l-length pants, eye c loths and sheet plastic protecting protection , and a dust mask. walls by 12-in.
124
How to Apply a Popcorn Ceiling Texture
• - FPopcorn texture is a popular Mix the dry texture following the manufacturer’s directions, and load the treatment for ceilings . Its bumpy hopper of the texture gun . Apply the texture, holding the gun 2 ft. to 4 ft. surface is created by tiny particles below the ceiling. Spray in a side-to-side motion (not arching), leaving a of vermiculite or polystyrene that thin , even layer over the entire ceiling. Immediate ly following the first give it sound-deadening proper- layer, spray on a second thin layer, working in a direction perpendicular ties. Mixtures are available in fine, to the first. Allow the texture to dry. For a heavy texture, the manufacturer medium, and coarse grades . may recommend applying an additional coat.
How to Apply an Orange Peel Texture
Orange peel textures are most commonly applied to Mix the texture product or compound to the consis- wa lls. They have a distinctive, spattered look created tency of latex paint. Spray the surface with long , side- by spraying a thin texturing product or water-thinned to-side strokes, keeping the gun perpendicular to the all-purpose drywall compound through a texturing surface , and about 18’ away from it. To apply a heavy gun. For a heavier spattered texture, repeat the step spatter-coat, let the surface dry for 10 to 15 minutes , shown here , using less air pressure at the gun (atom- then spray with random motions, from about 6 ft. away. izing air) and the compressor (feed pressure).
125How to Create a Knock-down Texture
A knock-down texture is an orange peel texture that Mix the texture product or all-purpose drywall com- is partially smoothed with a drywal l knife. Its relative pound to a heavy latex-paint consistency. Spray- flatness creates a subtle effect, and it’s easier to texture the entire surface following the orange peel paint and maintain than the heavier textures, making procedure on page 125. Let the texture dry for 10 to it a good choice for wal ls. Because of the light trowel- 15 minutes, then lightly trowel the surface with a 12” ing required, this texture works best on smooth , flat or larger drywall knife. Hold the knife almost flat, and surfaces . work perpendicularly to the drywall seams .
How to Apply a Stipple Texture
Stipple textures are made with a Mix paint or compound to a Variation : Knock down the stipple paint roller and texture paint or all- heavy latex-paint consistency. finish for a smoother texture. Apply purpose drywall compound. Ran- Coat the roller and roll the surface, the stipple texture with a roller, domly shaped ridges have a recoating the roller as needed to and let it dry for about 10 minutes. noticeable grain orientation. The create an even layer over the entire Smooth the surface with a 12” or amount of texture is affected by work area. Let the texture dry to a larger drywall knife, holding the the nap of the roller , which can dull-wet sheen , then roll the surface knife almost flat and applying very vary from \14’ to 1”. Stippling can be again- without loading the roller- light pressure. knocked down for a flatter finish. to create the finished texture.
126
How to Create a Swirl Texture
Swirl textures and other freehand Mix the texture product or all-purpose drywall compound to a heavy latex- designs can have the look of tradi- paint consistency. For a shallow texture , use a paint roller with a -2” nap to tional ly applied plaster . Swirls can apply an even coat over the entire surface; for a deeper texture, apply an be made with a wallpaper brush, even , W -thick coat with a drywall knife . Let the surface dry to a dull-wet whisk broom, or any type of raking appearance. Brush the pattern into the materia l using arching or circular or combing too l. motions . Start at one end of the area and work backward, overlapping the starting and end points of previous swirls with each new row.
How to Apply a Troweled Texture
)
\
, ---""'"
-
Partially smooth the surface,A troweled texture can have al- most any design but should be app lied with varied motions to cre- 1 Apply the compound to the surface us ing a 6” or 8” drywall knife. Vary the direction of the 2 using a 6” , 8”, or 12’ knife. Flat- ten the tops of ridges and stipples ate a random appearance. Pre- strokes and the thickness of com- without smooth ing lower areas . mixed all-purpose drywall pound . If des ired, stipple the sur- When you ‘re satisfied with the de- compound works well for most face by stamping the knife into the sign, repeat step 1 in an adjacent troweled textures, and it’s usually compound and pulling it away section, overlapping the edges of best to work in small sections. sharply. the textu red area by a few inches.
127
Applying
Veneer Plaster
While gypsum wallboard all but
wiped out trad itional plaster and
lath in the 1940s, a new genera-
tion of plaster products now
make plaster easier and
cheaper to apply, leading to
new popularity for this classic
material.
Veneer plaster systems provide
a solid , uniform wal l su rface that
is highly resistant to nail pops ,
cracks and surface damage. A
skim coat of plaster is troweled
onto a gypsum wallboard base
that has a distinctive blue color,
commonly called blueboard.
While blueboard is installed like
standard wallboard, it has a
highly absorptive face paper to
which the wet-mix plaster bonds.
Blueboard joints do not need to
be taped as preci se ly as stan-
dard wallboard joints, and seams
and fastener heads do not show
through the finished plaster sur-
face , a common problem with
standard wallboard.
Veneer systems are available in
one-coat and two-coat systems.
One-coat systems have a sing le
layer of finish plaster applied
directly to the blue board base ;
two-coat systems, a rough
basecoat for the finish plaster
Everything You Need
Tools: Stapler, hammer, heavy-
duty )2" drill with mixing paddle,
16-gal. drum, mortar hawk, 12"
trowel, fine-wire rake or broom
(for basecoat) , spray water
bottle.
Materials: Metal corner bead
with mesh flanges, 1 Y4" wall-Tools and materials for installing veneer plaster include: dry-mix board screws, non-adhesive veneer plaster basecoats (A); finish plaster (B) , available for smooth or fiberglass mesh tape , %” sta- textured applications; spray bottle for moistening surfaces (C) ; non- ples, clean potable water, dry- adhesive fiberglass mesh tape for covering blueboard panel seams and mix veneer basecoat plaster inside corners (D); outside corner beads with metal beads and mesh (for two-coat application), dry- flanges (E) ; mortar hawk (F) ; 12-in. trowel (G); thin -wi re rake for roughen- mix veneer finish plaster. ing th e base coat (H).
128
to mechanically “key” or bond One- and Two-coat Veneer Plaster Svc:tE”mo::
to, providing a more rigid sur- ,., -,
face. Finish plaster can be trow-
eled smooth or tooled for a
texture. Sand and other addi-
tives can be used to create
coarser textures.
Applying veneer plaster effec-
tively does take some time to
master, but no more so than
that of any masonry technique
that requires troweling. The key
is to apply the plaster in quick,
short strokes, called “sc ratch-
ing in,” and then to immed iate ly
trowel it over with a steady, even
stroke to smooth the plaster to a
consistent thickness, typically
1,1,6” to 1J8.
Veneer plaster systems cost One-coat veneer plaster sys- Two-coat veneer plaster systems
roughly 25 percent more to in-
tems use a single , ’/,6” to 3132”- are composed of a 1,1,6” to ‘1ll”
thick coat of finish plaster applied basecoat plaster applied to blue-
stall than traditional wallboard, directly to a blueboard base. The board, followed by a ’/‘6” to 3132”-
however, veneer plaster can be coat can be troweled smooth or thick coat of finish plaster. The
installed in a single day, rather textured, resulting in a hard, finish coat bonds with the scratched
than the minimum of three days monolithic surface. basecoat surface, forming a more
required for a wallboard job. Ad- uniform and monolithic surface
ditionally, veneer plaster does than that of a one-coat system .
not need to be sanded, elimi -
nating the additional setup and Options of Veneer Plaster
cleanup need for sanding wall -
board.
For best results , maintain a con-
sistent room temperature during
all phases of the plaster applica-
tion, until the material has dried
completely. Plan your installation
to allow for continuous applica-
tion, from corner to corner,
across a single surface. If you
must stop partway through the
application, use the trowel to
cut a clean , sharp edge rather
than feather out the coat. Do
not overlap the applications,
but rather use excess plaster to
fill and bridge the joint during
finish troweling.
Veneer plaster can be troweled Other materials can be used as
NOTE : Each manufacturer has
smooth or textured using standard veneers to produce interesting
its own proprietary materials techniques (see pages 123 to walls and ceilings, such as con-
and methods for mixing , using, 127). As an alternative to paint, crete and clay. While most are ap-
and applying its veneer plaster many manufacturers also offer plied using similar techniques to
systems. Always follow the de- pigment additives in a variety of veneer plaster, always follow the
tailed instructions provided by colors. Because the plaster itself is manufacturer’s instructions to
the manufacturer for the prod- colored , scratches and other su- achieve best results.
ucts you use. perficial flaws are less noticeable.
129How to Finish Blueboard Seams with Mesh Tape
------------------------
Install metal outside corner bead with mesh To tape inside corners, crease the tape in half1 flanges as you would standard metal corner bead (see page 100). To tape flat seams, center non-adhe- 2 lengthwise , and fasten to one surface only , with one staple at each end and then every 24-in . along sive fiberglass mesh tape over the joint and fasten at the joint. At ceiling-to-wall joints , fasten tape to the one end with two %” staples. Pul l the tape taut across ceiling-side ; at wall-to-wal l joints , fasten to either side. the joint and fasten the opposite end with two sta- Avoid overlapping tape where possible . ples , then secure the tape with stap les on alternate sides of the joint, every 24-in.
How to Mix Veneer Plaster
Following the manufacturer’s instructions, mix one After all the plaster has been added, mix on high- 1 bag of dry plaster with the specified amount of clear, potable water in a 16-gal. smooth-sided container. To 2 speed for a couple minutes , stopping as soon as the p laster is smooth. Do not overmix plaster as it will prevent accelerated set times, make sure all tools and decrease set time and reduce your trowel time. Clean containers are clean , and never add anything to the mixing paddle and container immediately after use. mix that is not specified by the manufacturer.
130
How to Apply a One-Coat Veneer Plaster Sv~stelm
Cover all seams first. Apply a Variation: Blueboard joints can also be reinforced with paper tape. Em-1 thin layer of plaster along all flat seams and corner bead, feath- bedded the tape in a th in plaster bed, then and cover with another thin layer to conceal the tape fully. NOTE: Some manufacturers recommend ering out the edges by 6-in. For in- setting-type compound for embedding paper tape; always fol low the side corners, apply a thin bed of manufacturer’s directions for the products you use. plaster and embed the loose tape, then cover with another thin layer. Allow all taped seams to set.
Smooth
pas
l
Scratch
pass2 After the seams have set, begin plastering the surface, beginning at one corner and moving to the opposite. Start with ceilings and then do the walls, completing one entire surface before moving on to the next. To ap- ply the plaster, tightly scratch in the material up the wall (photo left) , then immediately double-back over it, smoothing over the materia l to a th ickness of ’/‘6-in . to 3!J2-in ., as specified by the manufacturer. Use tight, quick strokes to apply the plaster during the “scratch pass” and long , even strokes to achieve consistency during the “smooth pass.”
131
Annlll a One-Coat Veneer Plaster System (continued)
Continue to apply plaster by scratching in and Once the plaster begins to firm (also called "taken3 smoothing over the surface. Don’t worry about uniformity and trowel ridges at this point. Rather, make 4 up”), trowel the surface to fil l any voids and re- move tooling marks and imperfections, integrating sure the entire surface is complete ly concealed with the surface into a uniform smoothness. a relatively even plaster coat, 1;,6-in. to 3;32-in.-thick.
Prior to the plaster setting, make a final pass with Variation : For textured surfaces, skip the final trowel- 5 the trowel to smooth the surface, using water sparing ly. Do not over trowel; stop before the plaster ing and work the su rface with a texturing tool to achieve the desired results. See pages 123 to 127 for beg ins to darken and sets. surface texturing techniques. NOTE: Sand or texture added to the plaster mixture does not require tooling.
132
How to ADDIV Basecoat in a Two-Coat Veneer Plaster m
—--------------------~
After the seams have set, tightly scratch in1 Apply a thin layer of basecoat along all flat seams and corner bead, feathering out the edges by 6- 2 basecoat, then immediately double-back over it, smoothing over the material to a thickness of V16-in. in . For inside corners, apply a thin bed of basecoat and embed the loose tape , then cover with another to :,s-in., as specified by the manufacturer. Use tight , thin layer. Allow all taped seams to set. quick strokes to apply basecoat for the “scratch pass” and long , even strokes to achieve consistency for the “smooth pass. ”
Once the plaster begins to firm or "take up," Approximately two hours after the basecoat has3 trowel the surface to fill any voids and remove tooling marks and imperfections, integrating the sur- 4 set, the finish coat can be applied using the same techniques as for a one-coat veneer plaster system face into a reasonably uniform surface- do not over- (see pages 130 to 132). trowel to a smooth surface. Create keys for the final coat, using a thin-wire rake to roughen the basecoat.
133Installing Paneling & Ceiling Systems Installing Paneli ng … … … … … … . .. 136
Addi ng a Wainscot … … ......... 140
Installing Wainscot Frames … … … … … 144
Paneling a Ceiling … . … . … . … 150
Installing a Suspended Ceiling … … .... 154
Installing Acoustical Ceiling Tile … … … .... 158
Installing Tin Ceiling Tile … . … . … . … 161
135
nance , water-resistant wall surface for bath -
rooms , utility rooms, garages and workshops , as
well as numerous commercial applications.
Tileboard is moisture-resistant hardboard coated
with melamine, providing a durable , easy-to-
clean plastic finish. It's designed to replicate the
appearance of ceramic tile, for use in bath-
rooms, laundry rooms, and kitchens.
Bamboo paneling is gaining in popularity due to
its unique look and green-friendly specs. Panels
are constructed of strips of bamboo laminated to
a fabric backing, which allows it to conform to
any type of surface, flat or curved.
Most paneling is available in 4 x 8, 4 x 9, and
4 x 10 sheets. Some manufacturers also offer
sheets in 50-in. widths. Paneling that is Y4-in. or
less in thickness requires a solid backer of at
least Y2-in. wallboard; paneling 3A3-in. thick or
more is rigid enough to be fastened directly to
Tileboard
framing with 16-in. O.C. spacing. Installation typ-
ically involves a panel adhesive, either applied
in beads along the wall or framing, or troweled
onto the back surface of the panel. Make sure to
check the manufacturer's instructions for the
product you purchase.
Unlike wallboard , paneling is traditionally in-
stalled parallel to the framing. To estimate the
number of sheets you'll need , measure the total
width of the walls and divide by 48-in. For every
door subtract half a sheet, for every window, a
quarter sheet. For ceilings higher than 8-ft., pur-
chase longer sheets or divide the extra heightInstalling Paneling into 96-in. to determine how many additional panels you’ll need. Before installing paneling , condition it to the Paneling is a versatile wall-surfacing material room it will be installed in for at least 24 hours. that comes in a wide range of styles , colors, and Stand sheets upright along their long edge, ei- prices. Paneling sheets are made from a variety ther separately or stacked together with wood of materials for numerous applications: spacers between each sheet to allow air to flow. Solid and veneer wood paneling is durable and Exterior and basement walls must contain insu- easy to clean. Available in finished and unfin - lation and a vapor barrier behind the wallboard. ished sheets, wood paneling brings a warm, rich For remodeling installations, remove all trimwork, tone to any room. It is often used as wainscoting fixtures and electrical coverplates, and shut off (pages 140 to 143) and also can be used as an electricity to the work area. inexpensive cover-up for damaged plaster. Laminate panels are sheets of MDF, particle- board , or plywood faced with paper, print or Everything You Need vinyl. Laminates are available in hundreds of col- Tools: Pry bar, stud finder, tape measure, plumb ors, styles, and patterns, providing a durable al- bob, circular saw, straightedge, hammer, car- ternative to paint or wallcoverings. penter’s level, compass, jig saw, caulk gun. FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic), extruded Materials: Paneling sheets, 4d finish nails, wood plastic, and vinyl panels contain solid material stain, panel adhesive, powdered chalk. throughout the panel , creating a low-mainte-
135
How to Install Wood !-’:> ;n plln
--------------~
Starting in the corner farthest from the entry, use a Lay the first pane ling sheet face-side down . Mea-1 stud finder to locate the center of the stud closest to , but less than , 48-in. from the corner. Find and 2 sure the distance from corner to the first plumb mark and add I-in. to allow for scribing . Use a circu- mark stud centers every 48-in. from this first stud . lar saw and clamped straightedge to cut paneling to Snap a plumb chalk line down the wall at each loca- this measurement. tion . Paneling seams will fal l along these lines.
Position the first sheet of paneling against the wall Spread the legs of a compass to 1Y4", then run3 so that the cut edge is I-in. away from the corner, and the opposite , finished edge is plumb . Tempo rar- 4 the compass down the ful l height of the wall to scribe the corner irregularities onto the face of the ily tack the top of the paneling to the wall. paneling . Remove paneling from wall. (continued next page)
137How to Install Wood 1-’""n~.lInn (continued)
Lay the paneling face-side up and cut along the App ly stain or paint to the wall at the plumb lines 5 scribe line with a jigsaw. To prevent splintering, use a fine-tooth woodcutting blade. The scribed 6 so the backer will not show through the slight gaps at joints. Select a stain that matches the color of edge will fit perfectly against the wall corner. the paneling edges, which may be darker than the pane ling surface.
Use a caulk gun to apply 2-in.- Attach the paneling to the top Hang the remaining paneling7 long beads of panel adhesive to the wall at 6-in. intervals and in 8 of the wall , using 4d finishing nails driven every 16-in. Press the 9 so that there is a slight space at the joints. This space allows a continuous , wavy bead about 1- paneling against the adhesive , paneling to expand in damp in. back from plumb lines (to pre- then pull it away from the wall. weather. Use a dime as a spacing vent adhesive from seeping out Press the paneling back against gauge. through the joints). For new con- the wall when the adhesive is struction, apply adhesive directly tacky, about 2 minutes. to the studs .
138
How to Cut Ope
For window, door and other openings, measure For receptacles , switches , fixtures , and heating1 the opening and mark the outline on the backside of the paneling. Cut to size using a circular saw and 2 vents, coat the edges of electrical boxes and ductwork with chalk. straightedge. Install as you would a ful l sheet of pan- eling (page 138)
Press the paneling against the wall, so the back- Lay the paneling face-side down. Drill a hole at3 side presses against the outlet or vent- the chalk outline will transfer to the paneling . 4 one corner of each outline , then use a jigsaw with a fine-tooth woodcutting blade to make the cutouts.
139Adding a Wainscot A wainscot, by definition , is a wall treatment cov- ering the lower portion of a wall. Virtually any material can be used as wainscoting, but the most common by far is wood. In most applica- tions, the wainscot is covered along the bottom by a baseboard and along the top by a cap molding, rail, or shallow shelf. Wainscots are useful not only for decoration but also as protective surfaces. Standard wainscot heights are between 32” and 36” , a range at which the top cap can serve as a chair rail to protect the wall from furniture collisions. In hall- ways, mudrooms, and other functional areas, wainscots may run 48” and higher. Wood wainscoting is available in a variety of species and styles. For price and ease of instal- lation, the best types for do-it-yourselfers are 4 x 8-ft. sheets and tongue-&-groove boards, commonly called beadboard Standard materi- als include: paint-grade pine (and other soft- woods); hardwood veneers, such as oak and birch; molded polymers; and fiberboard. There are two basic methods for installing wain- scoting. Sheets and thinner boards (up to %”, in most cases) can be attached to drywall with construction adhesive and nails, or with nails alone. Thicker boards usually must be nailed , preferably blind-nailed- the technique of driving angled nails along the base of the tongue so the groove of the next board hides the nail heads. Thinner boards may have to be facenailed to avoid splitting the wood. Wainscoting that is fastened only with nails must have blocking or backing to serve as a nailing surface. If the framing is exposed, you can in- stall plywood backing over the wall studs in the area of the wainscot, then cover the rest of the wall with drywall of the same thickness (make bathrooms and other areas. You can install sure the local building code permits installing hooks for coats (or towels) along the rail or add wood directly over wall framing). You can also a shelf for additional storage. install 2 x 4 blocks between the studs , at 12” to 16” intervals, before hanging the drywall. Everything You Need The project on pages 141 to 142 shows you how to install a tall wainscot of sheet paneling with a Tools Chalk line, level, circular saw, caulk gun, traditional molding treatment. A rail made from 1 drill, router with roundover bit, power miter saw, x 6 clear pine runs along the top edge of panel- nail set. ing and is topped by a 1 x 3 pine cap with cus- Materials: Sheet paneling ; construction adhe- tom edges you mill with a router. Because of its sive; 10d, 6d , and 2d finish nails; 1 x 6 and height (60”) and tall baseboard, this wainscot is 1 x 3 clear pine lumber; wood glue; cove especially suited to mudroom or hallway walls molding; baseboard. that receive some abuse, but it can work well in
140
How to Install a Wainscot with Sheet Paneling
Measure up from the floor and snap a chalk line to Check the wall corner with a level to make sure1 represent the top of the paneling. This line will be 3/4 ” lower than the overall height of the wainscot. Use 2 it’s plumb. If it’s not plumb , scribe the first sheet to follow the angle or contours of the wall (see page a penci l to mark the stud locations about 1” above 137). Cut the first sheet to length so its bottom edge the chalk line. Measure the length of the wall to plan will be \2” above the floor, using a circular saw. Un- the layout of the sheets . The last piece should be at less you’ve scribed the sheet, cut from the back side least 3” wide , so you may have to trim the first sheet to to prevent splintering on the face. Using a caulk gun , make the last piece wider. apply construction adhesive to the back side.
Apply the sheet to the wall so its top edge is flush Install the remaining sheets in the wall section. If3 with the chalk line and its side edge is set into the corner. Press the sheet firm ly to bond it to the wal l. 4 you are paneling an adjacent wall, check the pan- eled wa ll for plumb, and trim the first sheet, if neces- Drive 6d finish nails at the stud locations , spacing sary. Install the sheet butted against the end sheet on them every 16” , or so . Use only as many nai ls as the paneled wall. needed to hold the sheet flat and to keep it in place. (continued next page)
141How to Install a Wainscot with Sheet Paneling (continu ed)
Prepare the 1 x 6 rail material by sanding smooth Mil l the 1 x 3 top cap rnaterial, using a router and5 the front face and bottom edge . If desired , round over the bottom , outside corner slightly with sand 6 roundover bit. Work on test pieces to find the de- sired amount of roundover, then rout your workpieces paper . Install the rail with its top edge flush with the on both front corners . Sand the cap srnooth. O PTION : chalk line, fastening it to each stud with two 10d fin - Create a waterfall edge by round ing over only the top ish nai ls driven through pilot holes. Butt together rail edge of the cap (top inset) , or chamfer the front pieces at inside corners, and miter them at outside edges with a charnfer bit (bottom inset). corners.
Cove molding
Install the cap with wood glue Add cove molding to the joint7top and finish nails . Glue along the edge of the rail and drive a 8 between the cap and rail, fas- tening it to the rail with 2d finish Variation: Top your wainscot with a shelf rather than a cap . Use 1 x 6 or wider boards , and rnill 10d finish nail, angled at 45° nai ls. Install the baseboard along thern as shown in step 6. To sup- through the cap and into each the bottom of the wainscot. Re- port the shelf , add wooden brack- stud (dri ll pilot holes for the nai ls). cess al l nai ls with a nai l set. ets fastened to the wal l studs . Miter the rail at corners.
142
Begin your installation at the corners , either inside (A) or outside (B) . Check corners for plumb. If a Use the reveal dimension (see pages 150 to 151) to ca lculate the num- corner isn ‘t plumb , scribe and trim ber of boards requ ired for each wall: divide the length of the wall by the the first board to fit. At inside cor- reveal, keeping in mind that a side edge may have to be trimmed from ners , use a level to hold the board one or more of the corner boards. If the tota l number of boards includes plumb, then use a compass to a fraction of less than half a board , plan to trim the first board to avoid transfer the contours of the wall to ending with a board cut to less than half its original width . the board. At outside corners , overhang the wall edge and scribe along the board ‘s back side.
Start inside corners (left) by trimming off the tongue edge of the first Install subsequent boards along board, or simply place the groove edge in the corner. Install the first the wall , following the panel manu- board, leaving a ‘“t” expansion gap in the corner. Butt the board on the facturer’s directions regarding ex- adjacent wall against the face of the first board. At outs ide corners (right) , pans ion gaps at the joints. Use a join boards with butt joints or miter joints (insets) . If necessary , drill pilot level to check every third board for holes for the nails to prevent splitting . Drive the bottom and top nails plumb . If it’s out of plumb , adjust where they’ll be hidden by the molding. Set all nails with a nail set. the fourth board to compensate .
143Installing Wainscot Frames Frame-and -panel wainscot adds depth, charac- in the shop allow you to join the frame parts to- ter, and a sense of Old-World charm to any gether (we use pocket screws driven in the room. Classic wainscot was built with grooved or backs of the rails and stiles), it generally results rabbeted rails and stiles that captured a floating in a more profess ional look. hardwood panel. In the project shown here, the Once the main frames are assembled , they can classic appearance is mimicked, but the difficul - be attached to the wall at stud locations. If you ties of machining precise parts and command- prefer to site-build the wainscot piece by piece, ing craftsman-level joinery are eliminated. you may need to replace the wallcove ring mater- Paint-grade materials (mostly MDF) are used in ial with plywood to create nailing surfaces for the the project shown ; however, you can also build individual pieces. the project with solid hardwoods and finish- grade plywood if you prefer a clear-coat finish. We primed all of the wainscot parts prior to in - stalling them and then painted the wainscot (in- Installing wainscot frames that look like frame- cluding the wall sections within the wainscot and-panel wainscot can be done piece by panel frames) a contrasting color from the wall piece, but it is often easier to assemble the main above the wainscot cap. frame parts in your shop. Not only does working
144
-
I Irr-=====t
IEverything You Need Profiled Tools: Laser level, pencil, tape measure, circular saw or table saw, straightedge guide, power miter saw, drill with bits, carpenter’s square, pocket hole jig with screws , pry bar, hammer, pneumatic %” x 3’12” finish nail gun with compres- sor, caulking gun. Materials: :%“-thick MDF sheet stock, 11;,6” cove moldin~, Y.:> x~” base shoe, 3/ 4” x 7’14” 9!i6 x 1 )8” cap molding (10ft. per panel), panel adhesive, paint and primer. Panel OVERALL HEIGHT: 44”
145How to Install Wainscot Frames
•
Plot out the wainscot layout on paper and then1 Use a laser level and a pencil to mark the height of the wainscot installation directly onto all walls in the project area. Also mark the height of the top rail 2 test the layout by drawing lines on the wall to make sure you’re happy with the design. Try to use a e/4” below the overall height), since the cap rail will panel width that can be divided evenly into all project be installed after the rest of the wainscot is installed. wall lengths. In some cases , you may need to make Mark stud locations, using an electronic stud finder. the pane l widths slightly different from wall to wall, but make sure to maintain a consistent width within each wall’s run.
.
~--~-~--
Based on your plan , rip a sheet of MDF into strips Cut top rails , base rails , and stiles (but not cap3 to make all of the wainscot parts except the trim moldings. In our case, that included the cap rai l (2” 4 rails) to length and dry-assemble the parts into ladder frames based on your layout. Plan the layouts wide), the top rail and stiles (31;2” wide) , and the base so wall sections longer than 8 ft. are cut with scarf rail (7’14’ wide). Note: These are standard lumber di- joints in the rails meeting at a stud location. Dry- mensions. You can use 1 x 4 and 1 x 4 dimensional assemble the pieces on a flat work surface. lumber for the rails and stiles (use 1 x 2 or rip stock for the cap rail).
146
Assemb le the frames using glue and pocket Mount a 3/4" roundover bit in your router or rou ter5 screws or biscuits. Clamp the parts together first and check with a carpenter’s square to make sure 6 table and shape a bullnose profile on the front edge of you r cap rail stock. the stiles are pe rpendicular to both rails .
Prime all parts on both sides, including the milled Position the frames against the wall and shim un-7 mo ldings and uncut cap rail stock. 8 derneath the bottom rails as necessary to bring them flush with the top ra il marks on the wall (3/4” be- low the overall he ight lines). Attach the wainscot sec- tions by driving 3” drywall screws, countersunk, th rough the top rail and the bottom rail at each stud location. If you are using scarf joints , be sure to install the open half first. (continued next page) 147
How to Install Wainscot Frames (continued)
I
Cut the cap rail to length and attach it to the top Instal l cove molding in the crotch where the9 rail with panel adhesive and finish nails . Drive a 3” drywall screw through the cap rail and into the wall 10 cap ra il and top rails meet, us ing glue and a brad nailer. Then, nail base shoe to conceal any toenails style at each location. Be sure to carefully gaps between the bottoms , rails and the floor. Miter drill pi lot ho les and counters ink holes for each screw. all corners . Miter-cut the cap rails at the corners.
Cut mitered frames to fit around the perimeter Mask the wall above the cap rail and then11 of each panel frame created by the rails and st iles. Use cap molding . 12 prime and paint the wainscot frames . Gener- ally, a lighter, contrasting color than the wall color above is most effective visually.
148
Variation : Natural Wood Finish
Snap a level line at the top rail height. Because Install the baseboard and top rail directly over the1 the rai ls and stiles are the same thickness, the backer panel shou ld run all the way from the floor to 2 backer panels, using a finish nailer or by hand- nailing with 6d finish nai ls. The top edge of the top just shy of the top of the top rail. Cut the backers so rail pieces should be slightly higher then the backer the grain wi ll run vertically when installed. Attach panels. Use your reference line as a guide for the top them to the walls with panel adhesive, notch ing to fit rail, but double-check with a level. around obstructions, such as th is window opening.
Attach the cap rail pieces with Cut the stile to fit between the Add decorative touches , such3 a finish nailer. The caps shou ld butt flush against the wall , con- 4 top rail and the baseboard and install them. It’s okay to vary the 5 as the corbels we cut for this installation. The corbels provide cealing the top edges of the spacing slightly from wall to wall , some suppo rt fo r the cap rail but backer panels. Also butt the cap but try to keep them evenly spaced their function is primarily decora- rails against the window and door on each wall. Where the wainscot tive . We glued and nailed one cor- casings. meets door or window casing, butt bel at each end of each cap rail the edges of the stiles against the piece and above each stile, and casing . This can mean notch ing then added an intermediate one around window ap rons or horns as between each pai r of stiles . well as door pl inth blocks.
149
Paneling a Ceiling
Tongue-&-groove paneling offers a warm, attrac-
tive finish that's especially suited to vaulted ceil -
ings. Pine is the most common material for
tongue-&-groove paneling, but you can choose
from many different wood s£ecies and panel
styles. Panels typically are W' to %" thick and
are often attached directly to ceiling joists or
rafters. Some building codes require the installa-
tion of drywall as a fire stop behind ceiling pan-
eling that's thinner than 1/4".
When purchasing your pane ling, get enough
material to cover about 15% more square
footage than the actual ceiling size, to allow for
waste. Since the tongue portions of the pane ls
slip into the grooves of adjacent pieces, square
footage for paneling is based on the reveal-the
exposed face of the panel after it is installed.
Tongue-&-groove boards can be attached with
flooring nails or finish nails. Flooring nails hold
better because they have spiraled shanks, but
they tend to have larger heads than finish nails.
Whenever possible, drive the nails through the
base of the tongue and into the framing . This is
called blind-nailing, because the groove of the
succeeding board covers the nail heads. Add
facenails only at joints and in locations where
more support is needed, such as along the first
and last boards. To ensure clean cuts , use a
compound miter saw. These saws are especially
useful for ceilings with non-gOo angles.
Layout is crucial to the success of a paneling
project. Before you start, determine how many
boards you 'll need, using the reveal measure-Everything You Need ment. If the final board will be less than 2” wide, trim the first, or starter, board by cutting the long Tools: Chalk line, com pound miter saw, ci rcu- edge that abuts the wall. If the ceiling peak is lar saw, drill, nail set. not parallel to the side (starting) wall, rip the Materials: Tongue-&-groove paneling, 13/4 ” starter piece at an angle to match the wall. The spiral flooring nails, trim molding. leading edge of the starter piece, and every piece thereafter, must be para llel to the peak.
150
Sidewall
To plan your layout , first measure the reveal of the Use the calculation from step 1 to make a control1 boards. Fit two pieces together and measure from the bottom edge of the upper board to the bottom 2 line for the first row of panels- the starter boards. At both ends of the cei li ng , measure down from the edge of the lower board. Calculate the number of peak an equa l distance, and make a mark to repre- boards needed to cover one side of the ceiling by di- sent the top (tongue) edges of the starter boards . viding the reveal dimension into the overall distance Snap a chalk line through the marks. between the top of the wal l and the peak.
Rafters I
I
Joints I r
I
I
1st board
If the boards aren't long enough to span the entire Rip the first starter board to width by bevel-cutting3 ceiling, p lan the locations of the joints. Staggering the joints in a three-step pattern will make them less 4 the bottom (grooved) edge. If the starter row will have jo ints , cut the board to length using a 30° bevel conspicuous. Note that each joint must fall over the cut on the joint end only. Two beveled ends joined to- middle of a rafter. For best appearance , select boards gether form a scarf joint (inset), which is less of similar coloring and gra in for each row. noticeable than a butt joint. If the board spans the ceiling , square-cut both ends. (continued next page) 151
How to Panel a Ceiling (continued)
Position the first starter board so the tongue is on Cut and install any remaining boards in the starter 5 the control line. Leave a W gap between the square board end and the end wall. Fasten the board 6 row one at a time, making sure the scarf joints fit together tightly. At each scarf joint, drive two nails by nailing through its face about 1” from the grooved through the face of the top board, angling the nail to edge and into the rafters. Then, blind-nail through the capture the end of the board behind it. If necessary , base of the tongue into each rafter, angling the nail predrill the nail holes to prevent splitting. backward at 45° Drive the nail heads beneath the wood surface, using a nail set.
Cut the first board for the next row, then fit its As you install successive rows , measure down7 grooved edge over the tongue of the board in the starter row. Use a hammer and a scrap piece of panel- 8 from the peak to make sure the rows remain par- allel to the peak. Correct any misa lignment by adjust- ing to drive downward on the tongue edge , seating the ing the tongue-&-groove joint slightly with each row. grooved edge over the tongue of the starter board. You can also snap additional control lines to help Fasten the second row with blind-nails only. align the rows.
152
I
j V
Ridge
boardII V / Panels
Rip the boards for the last row to width, beveling Install trim molding along walls , at joints around9 the top edges so they fit flush against the ridge board. Facenai l the boards in place. Install paneling 10 obstacles , and along ins ide and outside cor- ners , if des ired . (Se lect-grade 1 x 2 works well as trim on the other side of the ceiling, then cut and install along walls.) Where necessary, beve l the back edges the final row of panels to form a closed joint under the of the trim or miter-cut the ends to accommodate the ridge board (inset) . slope of the ceiling.
Tips for Paneling an Attic Ceiling
Panels
p~
Collar
tie
Panel
materialUse mitered trim to cover joints where panels meet Wrap coliar ties or exposed beams with custom-cut at outs ide corners. Dormers and other roof elements panels . Install the panel ing on the ceiling first. Then, create opposing ce iling angles that can be difficult to rip-cut panels to the desired width. You may want to panel around. It may be easier to butt the panels to- include a tongue-&-groove joint as part of the trim de- gether and hide the butt joints wi th custom-cut trim. tail. Angle-cut the ends of the trim so it fits tight to the The trim also makes a nice transition between angles. ceiling panels.
153
Hanger wire
Main
/Wallangle Tee----- PanelInstalling a Suspended Ceiling Suspended ceilings are traditionally popular sound, and light-diffuser screens for use with fluo- ceiling finishes for basements and utility areas, rescent lights. Generally, metal-frame ceiling sys- parti cularly because they hang below pipes and tems are more durable than ones made of plastic. other mechanicals while providing easy access To begin your ceiling project, devise the panel to them. However, the commercial appearance layout based on the size of the room, placing and grainy texture of basic ceiling tiles make equally sized trimmed panels on opposite sides them an unlikely choice for formal areas such as to create a balanced look. Your ceiling must also living rooms. Basic tiles are not your only option. be level. For small rooms , a 4-fl. or 6-fl. level will Suspended ceiling tile manufacturers have a work, but a water level is more effective for larger wide array of ceiling tiles to choose from that go jobs. You can make a water level with two water- above and beyond traditional institutional tiles. level ends (available at hardware stores and home Popular styles mimic historical tin tiles and add cente rs) attached to flexible plastic tubing. depth to the ceiling while minimizing sound and vibration noise. A suspended ceiling is a grid framework made of lightweight metal brackets hung on wires attached to ceiling or floor joists. The frame consists of T- shaped main beams (mains), cross-tees (tees), and L-sh aped wall angles. The grid supports ceil- ing panels, which rest on the flanges of the framing pieces. Panels are available in 2 x 2-ft. or 2 x 4-ft. sizes, in a variety of styles. Special options include insulated panels, acoustical panels that absorb
Everything You Need Tools: Water level, chalk line, drill, aviation snips, string , lock-type clamps, screw-eye dri- ver, pliers, straightedge , utility knife. Materials: Suspended ceiling kit (frame), screw eyes, hanger wires, ceiling panels, 1W drywall Acoustical ceiling tiles are available in a wide vari- screws or masonry nails. ety of styles. Some mimic the tin or plaster ceilings of the past.
154
Overall room
width Overall room
length
y
>
Cut border
panelsBuild a valance around basement awning windows Draw your ceiling layout on paper, based on the so they can be opened fully. Attach 1 x lumber of an exact dimensions of the room. Plan so that trimmed appropriate wid th to joists or blocking. Install drywall border panels on opposite sides of the room are of (or a suspended-ceiling panel trimmed to fi t) to the equal width and length (avoid panels smaller than joists inside the valance. .2-size) If you include lighting fixtures in you r plan, make su re they follow the grid layout.
How to Install a Suspended Ceiling
---.—
1 Make a mark on one wall that represents the ceiling height plus the height of the wal l angle. 2 Attach wall angle pieces to the studs on all walls, positioning the top of the wall angle flush with Tip : Trim wall angle pieces to fit around corners. At inside corners (top), back-cut the vertical flanges Use a water level to transfer that the chalk line. Use 1W drywall slightly, then overlap the horizontal height to both ends of each wall. screws (or short masonry nails dri- flanges. At outside corners (bot- Snap a chalk line to connect the ven into mortar joints on concrete tom), miter-cut one horizontal marks. This line represents the top block walls). Cut angle pieces us- flange, and overlap the flanges. of the ceiling’s wall ang le. ing aviation snips. (continued next page)
155How to Install a Suspended Ceiling (continued)
•
Mark the location of each main on the wall angles Install screw eyes for hanging the mains, using a3 at the ends of the room. The mains must be paral- lel to each other and perpendicu lar to the ceiling 4 drill and screw-eye driver. Drill pilot holes and drive the eyes into the joists every 4 ft., locating them joists. Set up a guide string for each main , using a directly above the guide strings. Attach hanger wire thin string and lock-type clamps (inset) . Clamp the to the screw eyes by threading one end through the strings to the opposing wall angles , stretching them eye and twisting the wire on itself at least three times . very taut so there’s no sagging. Trim excess wire , leaving a few inches of wire hang- ing below the leve l of the guide string.
Measure the distance from the Following your ceiling plan , Trim one end of each main so5 bottom of a main ‘s flange to the hanger hole in the web (inset). 6 mark the placement of the first tee on opposite wall angles at one 7 that a tee slot in the main’s web is aligned with the tee guide Use this measurement to prebend end of the room . Set up a guide string , and the end of the main each hanger wire. Measure up string for the tee , using a string bears fully on a wall angle. Set the from the guide string and make a and clamps, as before. This string main in place to check the align- 90° bend in the wire , using pliers. must be perpendicular to the ment of the tee slot with the string. guide strings for the mains.
156
Cut the other end of each main to fit , so that it Instal l the mains by setting the ends on the wall8 rests on the opposing wall angle. If a single main cannot span the room , splice two mains together, 9 angle and threading the hanger wires through the hanger holes in the webs. The wires should be as end-to-end (the ends should be fashioned with male- close to vertical as possible . Wrap each wire around female connectors) . Make sure the tee slots remain itself three times, making sure the main ‘s flange is aligned when sp licing. level with the main guide string . Also install a hanger near each main splice.
10 Attach tees to the mains , slipping the tabbed ends into the tee slots on the mains. Align the first row of tees with the tee guide string; install the 11 Place full ceiling panels into the grid first, then install the border panels. Lift the panels in at an angle , and position them so they rest on the frame’s remaining rows at 4-fl. intervals. If you ‘re using flanges . Reach through adjacent openings to adjust 2 x 2-fl. panels , insta ll 2-ft. cross-tees between the the panels , if necessary. To trim the border panels to midpoints of the 4-ft . tees. Cut and install the border size, cut them face-up, using a straightedge and util- tees , setting the tee ends on the wall angles. Remove ity knife (inset). all guide strings and clamps.
157
Installing Acoustical
Ceiling Tile
Easy-to-install ceiling tile can lend character to a
plain ceiling or help turn an unfinished basement
or attic into beautiful living space. Made of
pressed mineral and fiberboard , ceiling tiles are
available in a variety of styles. They also provide
moderate noise reduction.
Ceiling tiles typically can be attached directly to
a drywall or plaster ceiling with adhesive. If your
ceiling is damaged or uneven , or if you have an
unfinished joist ceiling, install 1 x 2 fu rring stri ps
as a base for the tiles, as shown in this project.
Some systems include metal tracks for clip-on
installation.
Unless your ceiling measures in even feet, you
won't be able to install the 12" tiles without some
cutting. To prevent an unattractive installation
with small, irregular tiles along two sides, include
a course of border tiles along the perimeter ofEverything You Need the installation. Plan so that tiles at opposite Tools: 4-ft. level, stepladder, chalk line, utility knife , ends of the room are cut to the same width and straightedge, hammer or drill, handsaw, stap ler. are at least \2 the width of a full tile. Materials: 1 x 2 furring strips, 8d nails or 2” Most ceiling tile comes prefinished, but it can be screws, string, ceiling tiles, staples, trim molding. painted to match any decor. For best results, ap- ply two coats of paint using a roller with a 1,14” nap, and wait 24 hours between coats.
Create an area rug effect by covering only a portion of the ceiling with Add a faux patina by randomly ti les . Th is technique helps to define living areas in open floor plans by dabbing the tiles with metallic breaking up bland expanses of white ceiling. green or blue paint , using a nat- ural sea sponge.
158
How to Install Ceiling Tile
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r:- . -:r-,..,.-:-
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.. ' .8 x 10’ · ’ .. .;’ t
comer ’. ..
tile
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15 ft., 4'1 Measure the ceil ing and devise a layout. If the length (or width) doesn’t measure in even feet , use this formula to determine the width of the border tiles: add 12 to the number of inches remaining and divide by 2. 2 Install the first furring stri p flush with the wall and perpendicular to the joists, fasten in g with two 8d The result is the width of the border tile. (For example, if the room length nails or 2” screws at each joist. is 15 ft., 4” , add 12 to the 4, then divide 16 by 2, which results in an Measure out from the wall a dis- 8” border tile.) tance equal to the border tile width minus li”, and snap a cha lk line. In · stall the second fur ring strip with its wall-side edge on the chalk line.
Install the remaining strips 12' on-center from the second strip. Mea- Check the str ips w ith a 4-ft.3 su re from the second strip and mark the joist nearest the wall every 12”. Repeat along the joist on the opposite side of the room , then snap 4 level. Insert wood shims be- tween the strips and joists as nec- chalk lines between the marks. Install the fur ring strips along the lines . In- essary to bring the strips into a stall the last furring strip flush against the opposite side wall. Stagger the level plane. butted end joints of strips between rows so they aren’t all on the same joist. (continued next page)
159How to Install Ceiling Tile (continued)
Set up taut, perpendicular string lines along two Cut the corner border tile to size with a utility knife 5 adjacent walls to help guide the tile installation. Inset the strings from the wall by a distance that 6 and straightedge. Cutting the border tiles ‘/4” short will ease fitting them. The resulting gap between the equa ls that wall ‘s border tile width plus )2”. Use a tile and wall will be covered by trim. Cut only on the framing square to make sure the strings are square. edges without the stapling flange.
Position the corner tile with the Fill in between the border tiles Install the final row of tiles , sav-7 flange edges aligned with the two string lines and fasten it to the 8 with full-size tiles. Continue working diagonally in this manner, 9 ing the far corner tile and its neighbor for last. Cut the last tile to furring strips with four 112” staples. toward the opposite corner. For size, then remove the tongue and Cut and instal l two border ti les the border tiles along the far wall, nailing flange along the side along each wall , making sure the trim off the flange edges and edges. Finish the job by installing tiles fit snugly together. stap le through the faces of the trim along the edges. tiles , close to the wall.
160
Installing Tin Ceiling Tile
Today’s metal ceilings offer the distinctive ele- provides a flat nailing surface for the panels. As gance of 19th -century tin tile in a durable, wash- an alternative, some manufacturers offer a track able ceiling finish. Available at home centers system for clip-on installation. and specialty distributors, metal ceiling systems Beg in your installation by carefully measuring include field panels (in 2 x 2-, 2 x 4-, and the ceiling and snapping chalk lines to establish 2 x 8-ft. sizes), border pane ls that can be cut to the panel layout. For most tile patterns, it looks fit your layout, and cornice molding for finishing best to cover the center of the space with full the edges. The pane ls come in a variety of ma- tiles only, then fill in along the perimeter with bor- terials and finishes ready for installation, or they der panels, which are not patterned. Make sure can be painted. your layout is square. To simplify installation, the panels have round catches, called nailing buttons, that fit into one another to align the panels where they overlap. The buttons are also the nailing points for at- Everything You Need taching the panels. Use 1” decorative cone head Tools: Chalk line, level, tin snips, drill with )8” nails where nail heads will be exposed, and 1,/,>” metal bit, compass, metal file. wire nails where heads are hidden. Materials: 3.13” or W plywood, 2” drywall screws, Install l,0ur metal ceiling over a smooth layer of field panels, border panels with molding edge, 3;8” or W’ plywood, which can be fastened di- cornice molding, masking tape, W wi re nails, rect ly to the ceiling joists with drywall screws, or 1” cone head nails, wood block. instal led over an existing finish. The plywood
161How to Install a Metal Tile Ceiling
Cornice
,
:l _Border panel
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ --j
Field panelMeasure to find the center of the ceiling, then snap perpendicular Align the first field panel with 1 chalk lines intersecting the center. On the walls , mark a level refer- ence line representing the bottom edges of the cornice molding. Where 2 the chalk lines at the ceil ing ‘s center, and attach it with 1,/,>” wire possible, plan to install the panels so they overlap toward the room’s nails along the edges where an- entrance, to help conceal the seams . other panel wi ll overlap it. Drive the nails beside the nailing but- tons- saving the buttons for nail- ing the overlapping panel.
Continue to insta ll field panels, working along the Cut the border panels to width so they will under-3 length of the area first, then overlapping the next row. Make su re the nailing buttons are aligned . Un- 4 lap the cornice by at least 1’ . Use sharp tin snips , and cut from the edge without edge molding. Install derlap panels by sliding the new panel into position the panels so the nail ing buttons on the molding align beneath the installed panel, then fasten through both with those on the fie ld panels . Fasten through the panels at the nailing buttons , us ing l ’ conehead buttons with conehead nails , and along the cut edge nails . Where field panels meet at corners , drill ~” pilot with wire nails. At corners, miter-cut the panels, and holes for the conehead nails. drive conehead nails every 6” along the seam.
162
Install each cornice piece with At inside corners, install one cornice piece tightly into the corner, then5 its bottom edge on the level line. Drive I”conehead nails 6 scribe the mating piece to fit, using masking tape and a compass. Cut along the scribed line with tin snips, and make minor adjustments through the nailing buttons and with a metal file. You may have to cut the mating piece severa l times , so into the wal l studs . Don’t nail the start with plenty of length. If you have several corners , use this technique ends until the succeeding piece is to cut templates for the corner pieces . in place . Fasten the top edges to the ceiling.
At outside corners , cut the ends of two scrap Using a hammer and a piece of wood , carefu lly7 pieces at a 33° ang le. Fit the pieces together at the corner, then trim and mark each piece in turn , 8 tap any loose joints to tighten them. If the cornice will be left unpainted, file the joints for a perfect fit . If making minor adjustments until they fit well. Use the you’re painting the ceiling , seal the seams with scrap pieces as templates for marking the work- paintable silicone caulk, then apply two coats of paint pieces. Fasten near the corner only when both mating using a roller with a )1,” nap . Allow the first coat to dry pieces are in place. for 24 hours before applying the second coat.
163Finishing Walls & Ceilings Basic Painting Techniques … … … … 166
Hang ing Wallcoverings .. … . … . … 176
Installing Ceram ic Wall Tile … … … . ...... 188
Tiling a Kitchen Backsplash … . … 196
Installing Interior Tr im … 200
165
Basic Painting
Techniques
Paints are either latex
(water-based) or alkyd (oil-
based). Latex paint is easy to
apply and clean up, and the
improved chemistry of today's
latexes makes them suitable for
nearly every application. Some
painters feel that alkyd paint
provides a smoother finish, but
local regulations may restrict
the use of alkyd products.
Paints come in various sheens.For large jobs, mix paint together (called “boxing ”) in a large pail to Paint finishes range from eliminate slight color variations between cans . Stir the paint thoroughly high-gloss to flat enamels. with a wooden stick or power drill attachment. Gloss enamels dry to a shiny finish and are used for surfaces that need to be washed often, such as wal ls in bathrooms and kitchens , and woodwork. Flat paints are used for most wall and ceiling applications. Paint prices typically are an ac- curate reflection of quality. As a general rule, buy the best paint your budget can afford. High- quality paints are easier to use , and they look better than cheaper paints. Quality paints last longer and cover better than budget paints, and be- cause they often require fewer coats , they are usually less ex- pensive in the long run. Primers provide maximum adhesion for paint on any surface. There Before applying the finish paint, are many specialty primers avai lable, including: mold-resistant primers prime all of the surfaces with a (A) that are especially useful in areas that tend to be damp, such as good-quality primer. Primer bathrooms; primers made for plaster and new drywall (8); stain blocking bonds well to all surfaces and primers (C) ; and tinted primers (D) that reduce the need for multiple coats of paint (particularly for deep colors). provides a durable base that keeps the paint from cracking and peeling . Priming is particu- How to Estimate Paint larly important when using a
- Length of wall or ceiling (linear feet) x high-gloss paint on walls and ceilings , because the paint
- Height of wall , or width of ceiling alone might not completely hide
- Surface area (square feet) finished drywall joints and other variations in the surface. To avoid
- Coverage per gallon of chosen paint = the need for additional coats of expensive finish paint, tint the
- Gallons of paint needed primer to match the new color.
166
How to Select a Qual ~—
Paint coverage (listed on can labels) of quality paint High washability is a feature of qual ity pa int. The should be about 400 square feet per gallon. Bargain pigments in bargain paints (right) may “chalk” and paints (left) may requi re two or even three coats to wash away with mild scrubbing. cover the same area as quality paints (right).
Paint Sheens
GloSS ~ediur1l Flat
enamel gloSS latexPaint comes in a variety of surface finishes , or enamel creates a highly washable surface with a sheens , samples of which are shown here. Gloss slightly less reflective finish . Like gloss enamels, enamel (A) provides a highly reflective finish for ar- medium-gloss pa ints (B) tend to show surface flaws . eas where high washability is important. Al l gloss Eggshell enamel (C) combines the soft finish with the paints tend to show surface flaws. Alkyd-base enam- washabi lity of enamel. Flat latex (D) is an all-purpose els have the highest gloss. Medium-gloss latex paint with a soft finish that hides surface irregularities.
167Painting Tools
Most painting jobs can be completed with a few rollers. With proper cleanup , these tools will last quality tools . Purchase two or three premium for years. See pages 170 to 175 for tips on how brushes, a sturdy paint pan that can be to use paintbrushes and rollers. attached to a stepladder, and one or two good
Tips for Choosing a Paintbrush
A quality brush (left), has a shaped hardwood hand le There’s a proper brush for every job. A 4” and a sturdy , reinforced ferrule made of noncorrosive stra ight-edged brush (bottom) is good for cutting in metal. Multiple spacer plugs separate the bristles. A along ceil ings and corners. For woodwork , a 2” trim quality brush has flagged (split) bristles and a chis- brush (midd le) works well. A tapered sash brush eled end for precise edging. A cheaper brush (right) (top) helps with corners on window sash. Use will have a b lunt end , unflagged bristles, and a card- brushes made of hog or ox bristles only with alkyd board spacer plug that may soften when wet. (oil-based) paints. All-purpose brushes, suitable for all paints, are made with a blend of polyester, nylon , and sometimes animal bristles.
168
Tips for Choosing Paint Rollers
Choose a sturdy roller with a wire cage construc-
tion . Nylon bearings should rol l smoothly and easily
when you spin the cage. The handle end should be
th readed for attaching an extension handle.Select the proper roller cover for the surface you in- tend to paint. A 1/4 “-nap cover is used for very flat surfaces. A 31il”-nap cover will cover the small flaws found in most flat wal ls and ceilings. A 1”-nap cover fills spaces in rough surfaces, such as concrete blocks or stucco walls. Foam rollers fit into small spaces and work well when painting furniture or doing touch-ups. Paint pads and specialty ro llers come in a wide Corner rollers have nap on the ends and make it easy range of sizes and shapes to fit different painting to paint corners without cutting in the edges. Syn- needs. thetic covers are good with most paints, especially latexes. Wool or mohair roller covers give an even fin- ish with alkyd products. Always choose good-quality roller covers , which will be less likely to shed lint.
169How to Use a Paint Roller
3 1
2
Wet the roller cover with water (for latex paint) or Draw the roller straight down (2) from the top of1 minera l spirits (for alkyd enamel), to remove lint and prime the cover. Squeeze out excess liquid. Dip 2 the diagonal sweep made in step 1. Lift and move the roller to the beg in ning of the diagonal sweep and the rol ler fully into the paint pan reservoir and roll it roll up (3) to complete the unloading of the roller. over the textured ramp to distribute the paint evenly. The roller should be fu ll, but not dripping . Make an upward diagonal sweep about 4 ft. long on the sur- face, using a slow stroke to avoid splattering.
Distribute the paint over the rest of the section Smooth the area by lightly drawing the roller verti-3 with horizontal back-and-forth strokes. 4 cally from the top to the bottom of the painted area. Lift the roller and return it to the top of the area after each stroke.
170
How to Use a Paintbrush
Dip the brush into the paint, loading one-third of Paint along the edges (called "cutting in ") using1 its bristle length. Tap the bristles against the side of the can to remove excess paint , but do not drag 2 the narrow edge of the brush , pressing just enough to flex the bristles. Keep an eye on the paint the bristles against the lip of the can . edge, and paint with long, slow strokes. Always paint from a dry area back into wet paint to avoid lap marks.
Brush wall corners using the To paint large areas with a Smooth the surface by drawing 3 wide edge of the brush. Paint open areas with a brush or roller 4 brush , apply the paint with 2 or 3 diagonal strokes. Hold the brush 5 the brush vertically from the top to the bottom of the painted before the brushed paint dries. at a 45° angle to the work surface , area. Use light strokes and lift the pressing just enough to flex the brush from the surface at the end bristles . Distribute the paint evenly of each stroke . This method is best with horizontal strokes. for slow-drying alkyd enamels.
171Painting Walls & Ceilings
For a smooth finish on large wall and ceiling areas, paint in small sections. First use a paintbrush to cut in the edges, then immediately roll the section before moving on . If brushed edges are left to dry before the large surfaces are rolled, visible lap marks will be left on the finished wall. Working in natural light makes it easier to see missed areas . Spread the paint evenly onto the work su rface without letting it run , drip, or lap onto other ar- eas. Excess paint will run on the surface and can drip onto woodwork and floors . Conversely, stretching paint too far leaves lap marks and re- sults in patchy coverage. For fast, mess-free painting , shield any surfaces that could get splattered. If you are painting only the ceiling, drape the walls and woodwork to prevent splatters . When painting walls, mask the baseboards and the window and door casings. (See top of opposite page .) While the tried -and -true method of aligning painter ‘s tape with the edge of moldings and casings is perfectly adequate, the job goes much faster and smoother with a tape applica- tor. Similarly, painter ‘s tape can be used to cover door hinges and window glass, but hinge masks and corner masks simplify the job enormously. Evaluate the available choices and the project at hand: there are many new, easy-to-use options Use an adjustable extension handle to pa int ceil- available. ings and tall walls easily without a ladder.
172
How to Tape and Drape for Walls and Ceilings
Align wide masking tape with the inside edge of Press the top half of 2" masking tape along the1 the molding; press in place . Run the tip of a putty knife along the inside edge of the tape to seal it 2 joint between the ceiling and the wall, leaving the bottom half of the tape loose . Hang sheet plastic un- against seeping paint. After painting , remove the der the tape, draping the walls and baseboards. Af- tape as soon as the paint is too dry to run . ter pa inting , remove the loose edge as soon as the pa int is too dry to run .
Tips for Painting Walls and Ceilings
rPaint to a wet edge. Cut in the edges on small sec- Minimize brush marks. Slide the roller cover slightly tions with a paintbrush , then immediately roll the sec- off of the roller cage when rolling near wall corners or tion . (Using a corner roller makes it unnecessary to a ceiling line. Brushed areas dry to a different finish cut in inside corners .) With two painters, have one cut than ro lled paint. in with a brush while the other rolls the large areas .
173How to Paint Ceilings
… - … … - … . .
Paint ceilings with a roller handle extension. Use eye protection while painting overhead . Start at the corner farthest from the entry door. Paint the ceiling along the narrow end in 3 x 3’ sections, cutting in the edges with a brush before roll ing. Apply the paint with a diagonal stroke. Distribute the paint even ly with back-and-fo rth strokes. For the final smoothing strokes, rol l each section toward the wall containing the entry door, lifting the roller at the end of each sweep .
How to Paint Walls
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2 x 4'
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1 3
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2Paint walls in 2 x 4’ sections . Start in an upper corner, cutting in the ceil ing and wall corners with a brush, then rolling the section. Make the in itial diagonal rolier stroke from the bottom of the section upward , to avoid drip- ping paint. Distribute the paint evenly with horizontal strokes, then finish with downward sweeps of the rol ler. Next, cut in and roll the section d irectly underneath. Continue with adjacent areas, cutting in and rolling the top sections before the bottom sections . Roll al l finish strokes toward the floor.
174
Cleaning Up
At the end of a paint job you may choose to paint from most surfaces , though make sure to throwaway the roller covers , b ut the paint pans , test the p roduct on an inconspicuous area to roller handles, and brushes can be cleaned and make sure the surface is colorfast. stored for future use . Always follow the paint manufacturer’s guidelines for disposing of paint wastes. The easiest way to clean brushes and roller cov- ers you’d like to use again is to use a spinner tool to remove paint and solvent. Wash the roller cover or brush with solvent , then attach it to the spinner. Pumping the handle throws liquids out of the roller cover or brush. Hold the spinner in- side a cardboard box or 5-gallon bucket to catch paint and avoid splatters . Once clean , store brushes in their original wrappers , or fold the bristles inside brown wrapping paper. Store washed roller covers on end to avoid flattening the nap. Stray paint drips can be wiped away if they are still wet. A putty knife or razor will remove many dried paint spots on hardwood or glass . You can Cleaning products include (from left): chemical cleaner, use a chemical cleaner to remove stubborn spinner tool , cleaner tool for brushes and rol ler covers.
How to Use a Comb Brush
Comb brush bristles with the sp iked side of a Scrape paint from a roller cover with the curved cleaner tool. This aligns the bristles so they dry side of cleaner tool. Remove as much paint as possi- properly. ble before wash ing the tools with solvent or water , depending on your paint.
175
Hanging Wallcoverings
Very few modern "wallpapers" are actually
made of paper. Today's wallcoverings may be
made of vinyl, vinyl -coated paper or cloth , tex-
tiles, natural grasses, foil, or Mylar. Vinyl or
coated vinyl coverings are the easiest to hang,
clean , and remove. Other types of wallcoverings
offer specific decorative effects but may require
special handling.
Tools for hanging wallcovering include ordinary
items and a few specialty tools. Use a bubble-
stick or 4-ft. level and a pencil to mark layout
lines. Never mark with ink pens or chalk lines,
which can bleed through the wet wallcovering
or ooze from the seams. Cut wallcovering with a
sharp utility knife and a straightedge. Use non-
corrosive paint pails to hold wash water, and a
natural or high-quality plastic sponge to wash
wallcovering.
To smooth the wallcovering as you apply it, use
a smoothing brush. Brushes come in various
nap lengths. Use a short-nap brush for vinyl
wallcoverings and a soft, long-nap brush for
fragile materials, such as grasscloths. A seam
roller makes it easy to smooth the joints
between strips. Pages 178 to 179 show you the
basic wallcovering tools and handling techniques.
If your wallcovering is not prepasted, you'll need
one or more types of adhesive. For most vinyl or
vinyl-backed wallcoverings, choose a heavy-
duty premixed vinyl adhesive that contains a
mildew inhibitor. Vinyl wallcoverings also require
a special vinyl-on-vinyl adhesive for areas where
the wallcovering strips overlap or for installing
vinyl borders over wallcovering. Specialty wall-
coverings may need special adhesives; check
the label or ask a dealer about the correct adhe-
sive for your application. You can apply adhe-
sives with an ordinary paint roller.Embossed Before hanging wallcovering, make sure the wall surfaces are both sealed and sized to prevent the adhesives from soaking into the surface. To- day’s premixed primer-sealers do both jobs with a single application.
Tips for Choosing Wallcovering
Removability : Strippab le wallcoverings (left) can be pulled away from Cleaning: Washable wall- the wall by hand , leaving little or no film or residue. Pee lable wallcover- coverings can be cleaned with ings (r ight) can be removed but may leave a thin paper layer on the wall , mild soap and water and a wh ich can usually be removed with soap and water. Check the back of sponge . Scrubbable wallcoverings the sample or the wal lcovering package for its strippabil ity rating. are durable enough to be Choose a strippable product to make future redecorating easier. scrubbed with a soft brush . Choose a scrubbable type for heavy-use areas.
Application : Prepasted wallcoverings (left) are facto ry-coated with Dye-lot: To avoid slight color dif- water-based adhesive that is activated when the wallcovering is wetted ferences , make sure all of the wall- in a water tray. Unpasted wal lcoverings (right) must be coated with an covering you use comes from the adhesive for hanging . Prepasted products are easier to prepare and just same dye lot. Also , record dye-lot as du rable as those requiring an adhesive coat. numbers for futu re reference.
Packaging: Wallcoverings are Patterns: There is always more waste with large patterns. A wallcovering sold in continuous triple-, doub le-, with a large drop pattern can be more expens ive to hang than one with a and single-rol l bolts. smaller repeat. With large designs , it may also be difficult to avoid pat- tern interruptions at baseboards or corners.
177How to Handle Prepasted Wallcovering
Fill a water tray half-fu ll of lukewarm water. Ro ll "Book" the strip by folding both ends into the cen-1 the cut strip loosely with the pattern side in. Soak the rol l in the tray as directed by the manufacturer, 2 ter , with the pasted side in. Do not crease the folds. Let the strip cure for about 10 minutes . Some usual ly about 1 minute. Pulling from one end, lift the wallcoverings should not be booked ; follow the man- strip from the water, making sure the back side is ufacturer’s directions. For ceiling strips or wallcover- evenly wetted. ing borders , use an “accordion ” book (inset) .
How to Position & Smooth Wallcovering
Unfold the booked strip and position it lightly with Beginning at the top , smooth the wallcovering out1 its edge butted against a plumb line or previously hung strip. Use flat palms to slide the strip precisely 2 from the center in both directions. Check for bub- bles , and make sure the seams are properly butted . into place. Flatten the top of the strip with a smooth- If necessary, pu ll the strip away and reposition it. ing brush .
178
How to Trim Wallcovering
~
Position a 10" or 12' drywa ll kni fe along the in- With wallcovered ceil ings , crease the wall strips1 tended cut, then cut along the edge with a sharp util ity knife. Keep the utility knife b lade in place whi le 2 with the drywall kn ife, then cut along the crease with sc issors. Cutting with a uti lity knife may puncture changing the position of the drywall kni fe. the ceiling strip.
How to Roll Seams How to Rinse Wallcovering
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Let the strips stand for about 1;2 hour. Then, roll the Use clear water and a sponge to rinse adhesive
seam gently with a seam roller. Do not press out the from the surface. Change the water after every 3 or 4
adhesive by rolling too much or too forcefully. Do not strips. Do not let wate r run along the seams. Do not
roll seams on foils, fabrics, or embossed wallcoverings . use water on grasscloths , embossed wallcoverings,
Instead, tap the seams gently with a smoothing brush. or fabrics.
179Measuring & Estimating for Wallcovering
Calculate the square footage of your walls and How to Calculate Rolls Needed for a Ceiling ceilings , then refer to the coverage information listed on the wallcovering package to estimate 1) Room length (feet) + the correct amount of wallcovering to buy. Be- 2) Wallcovering pattern repeat (feet) = cause of normal trimming waste, the actual p er-roll coverage of wallcovering will be at least 3) Adjusted length (feet) x 15% less than the coverage listed on the pack- 4) Room width (feet) = age. The waste p ercentage can be higher de- pending on how much space it takes for the 5) Ceiling area (square feet) ~
wallcovering pattern to repeat itself. This “pat- 6) Actual per-roll coverage tern repeat” measurement is listed on the wall - (figured above; square feet) covering package. When estimating, add the pattern repeat measurement to the wall height 7) Number of rolls needed measurement of the room. for ceiling
Measure the room: How to Calculate Rolls Needed for Walls Walls: Measure the length and height of the walls to the nearest 1,,2 ft. Include window and 1) Wall height (feet) + door openings but not baseboards or crown 2) Wallcovering pattern repeat (feet) = moldings. 3) Adjusted height (feet) x Ceilings: Measure the length and the width of ceiling to the nearest 1,,2 ft. 4) Wall length; or room perimeter (feet) How to Figure Actual 5) Wall area (square feet) Per-roll Coverage 6) Actual per-roll coverage
- Total per-roll coverage (figured above ; square feet) = (square feet) x .85 7) Number of rolls +
- Adjust for waste factor 8) Add 1 roll for each
- Actual per-roll coverage archway or recessed window = (square feet) 9) Number of rolls needed for walls
How to Measure Unusual Surfaces …-…..……... .__.........-.-. Length ~
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+Soffits: If you’re covering the sides of a soffit, add the Triangular walls: Measure as though the surface is width and height of each side to the wall measurement. square: length x height.
180
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,” I ” The Hanging Plan
For best results, devise a hanging plan by then sketch a plan in both directions from the sketching out the seam locations. When hang- centerline . ing any patterned wallcovering, there will be • Adjust for corners that fall exactly on seam one seam where a full strip meets a partial strip, lines. Make sure you have at least W overlap on usually resulting in a mismatch of the pattern. inside corners, and 1” on outside corners. Plan so that this seam falls in an inconspicuous spot, like behind a door or above an entrance. If • Adjust for seams that fall in difficult locations, one or more seams falls in a bad spot, adjust such as near the edges of windows or doors. your plumb line a few inches to compensate. Shift your starting point so that the seams leave Follow these tips for a successful hanging plan: you with workable widths of wallcovering around these obstacles. • Plan the mismatch. If the room has no obvious focal point, start at the corner farthest from the • Plan a ceiling layout so that any pattern inter- entry. Measure out a distance equal to the wall - ruption will fall along the least conspicuous side covering width and mark a point. Work in both of the room. Pattern interruptions occur on the directions, marking each seam location. last ceiling strip, so start the layout on the side opposite the entry. • Start at a focal point, like a fireplace or large window. Center a plumb line on the focal point,
181
Installing Wallcovering
Working with wallcovering is easier with a helper,
especially on ceilings. Shut off the electricity to
the room at the main service panel , and remove
the receptacle and switch coverplates. Cover
the outlets with masking tape.
For ceilings , remember that the pattern on the
last strip may be broken by the ceiling line.
Since the least visible edge is usually on the en-
try wall, begin hanging strips at the far end of
the room, and work toward the entryway. If
you're covering the walls as well as the ceiling,
remember that the ceiling pattern can blend
perfectly into only one wall.
Everything You Need
Tools: Bubblestick or level, pencil, smoothing
brush , water tray (for prepasted wallcovering) ,
paint roller and tray (for unpasted wallcover-
ing), scissors, utility knife , drywall knives,
sponge, bucket, seam roller.
Materials: Wallcovering, adhesive (for un-
pasted wallcovering), vinyl-on-vinyl adhesive
(for vinyl wallcovering).How to Apply Wallcovering to Ceilings
Measure the width of the wallcovering strip and Using the marks as guides, draw a guide line1 subtract -2”. Near a corner, measure this distance away from the wall at several points, and mark points 2 along the length of the ceiling with a pencil and straightedge . Cut and prepare the first wallcovering on the ceiling with a pencil. strip (see pages 178).
182
Working in small sections , position the strip3 against the gu ide line. Overlap the side wall by ‘;2”, and the end wall by 2” . Flatten the strip with a 4eringCut out a small wedge of wallcovering in the cor- ner so that the strip will lie flat. Press the wal lcov- into the corner with a drywal l knife. smoothing brush as you work. Trim each str ip after it is smoothed .
If the end wal ls wil l also be covered, trim the ceil- Variation : Trim the excess at the corner. Continue5 ing overlap to W . Leave a W overlap on all walls that will be covered with matching wallcovering. hanging strips , butting the edges so that the pattern matches.
183How to Apply Wallcovering to Walls • • • •
Measure from your starting point a distance equal Cut the first strip to length with about 2" of excess1 to the wallpaper width minus \2” and mark a point. At that point draw a vertical plumb line from the ceil- 2 at each end. Prepare the strip according to the manufacturer’s directions. Unfold the top portion of ing to the floor, using a bubblestick or level. the booked strip and position it aga inst the line so the strip overlaps onto the ceiling about 2’.
Snip the top corner of the strip Unfo ld the bottom of the strip Trim the excess wallcovering3 so the wallcovering wraps around the corner without wrin- 4 and use flat palms to position the strip against the plumb line. 5 with a drywall knife and a sharp utility knife. Rinse any adhe- kling. Slide the strip into position Smooth the strip flat with a sive from the surface using clear with open palms then smooth it smoothing brush, carefully press- water and a sponge. with a smoothing brush. ing out any bubbles.
184
Hang additional strips, butting the edges so that With the power off, hang wall covering over recep-6 the pattern matches. Let the strips stand for about ‘;2 hour, then use a seam rol ler to roll the seams 7 tacle and switch boxes , then use a drywa ll knife and utility knife to trim back the paper to the edges of lightly. (On embossed wallcoverings or fabrics, tap the box . the seams gently with a smoothing brush.)
How to Apply Wallcovering Around Corners
Measure from the edge of the preceding strip to Position the strip on the wall , overlapping slightly1 the corner at several points , then add W to the longest of these measurements. Align the edges of a 2 onto the uncovered wall. Cut slits at the top and bottom so the strip wraps smoothly. Flatten the strip booked strip, then measure from the edge and mark with a smoothing brush and trim the excess at the top the above distance at two points. Cut the strip using and bottom. a straightedge and util ity knife. (continued next page)
185How to Apply Wallcovering Around Corners (continued)
On the uncovered wall, measure from the corner Position the new cut strip on the wall with the cut3 and mark at a distance equal to the width of the leftover strip plus 1;,>”. Draw a plumb line from the 4alongedge in the corner and the leading (uncut) edge the plumb line. Press the strip flat and smooth ceiling to the floor. Using the same measurement, it with a smoothing brush , then trim the excess at the cut a new strip to that width, starting from the leading ceiling and baseboard. edge of the new strip , so the pattern will match at the corner.
If you are using vinyl wallcovering, peel back the Variation : Outside corners usually can be wrapped5 edge at the corner and app ly vinyl-on-vinyl adhe- sive to the seam. Press the overlapping str ip flat and around without cutting the strip and drawing a new plumb line. If the corner is not plumb , follow the di- let it stand for ~ hour, then roll the seam and rinse rections for ins ide corners, except add 1” to the mea- the area with a damp sponge. surement in step 1, rather than ~’ . If necessary, trim the top wallcovering strip to follow the corner.
186
How to Apply Wallcovering Around a Window or Door
Position the strip on the wall, running over the win- Use scissors to cut diagonally from the edge of1 dow or door casing. Butt the seam against the edge of the preceding strip. Smooth the flat areas 2 the strip to the corners of the casing. Then trim away the excess wallcovering using a drywall knife with a smoothing brush and press the strip tightly and a utility knife. Rinse the wallcovering and casing against the casing. with a damp sponge.
Cut a short strip for the section above the door , or Repeat steps 1 and 2 to install the strip along the3 for the sections above and be low the window. Hang these strips exactly vertically to ensure a pat- 4 other side of the casing , matching the edges.
tern match for the next fu ll strip.
187Installing Ceramic Wall Tile Ceramic wall tile is one of the most durable sur- Most wall tile is designed to have narrow grout face materials for bathroom walls and ceilings lines (less than \13” wide) filled with unsanded because it’s virtually impervious to water and grout. Grout lines wider than 1;8” should be filled easy to clean. However, a tiled surface surround with sanded floor-tile grout. Either type will last for a bathtub or shower must be prepared using longer if it contains , or is mixed with, a latex ad - the proper materials to ensure that the wall sys- ditive . To prevent staining, it’s a good idea to tem will be protected if water does get through seal your grout after it fully cures, then once a the surface. year thereafter. Install tile over cementboard (pages 190 to 19 1). If you are planning to tile all the walls in your Made from cement and fiberglass, cementboard bathroom, you can use standard drywall or cannot be damaged by water, though moisture water-resistant drywall (called “greenboard”) can pass through it. To protect the framing, in- as a backer for walls in dry areas. See page 195 stall a waterproof membrane, such as roofing felt for information on laying out full rooms. or polyethylene sheeting, between the framing members and the cementboard . Be sure to tape Everything You Need and finish the seams between cement board panels before laying the tile. Tools: Tile-cutting tools, marker, tape measure, 4- ft. level, notched trowel , mallet, grout float, When shopping for tile , keep in mind that tiles sponge, small paintbrush, caulk gun. that are at least 6” x 6” are easier to install than small tile, because they require less cutting and Materials: Straight 1 x 2, dry-set tile mortar with cover more surface area. Larger tiles also have latex additive, ceramic wall tile , ceramic trim tile fewer grout lines that must be cleaned and (as needed), 2 x 4, carpet scrap, tile grout with maintained. Check out the selection of trim and latex additive, tub & tile caulk, alkaline grout specialty tiles and ceramic accessories that are sealer, cardboard. available to help you customize your project.
188
Use planning brochures and design catalogs to Choose moisture-resistant backing materials. Wa- help you create decorative patterns and borders lor ter-resistant drywall (A), or green board , is made from your ceram ic tile projects. Brochures and catalogs gypsum and has a water-resistant facing. Use it only in are availab le free of charge from many tile manufac- moderately damp or dry areas. eementboard (B) is a turers. rigid material with a fiberglass facing and a cement core. Because water does not damage cementboard, use it as a tile backer in bathtub and shower surrounds.
Ceramic wall tile is available in a wide range of Bonding materials for ceramic ti le include : dry-set shapes, styles , and colors. The most bas ic types of mortar (A) ; grout mix (B); and latex grout additive (e). tile are: 4 x 4 glazed wal l tiles (A) ; self-spacing mo- Latex additive makes grout lines stronger and more saic sheet tiles (B); and trim tiles for borders (e) and crack-resistant. Grout sealer (0) is used to protect accents (0). grout lines from stain ing.
189How to Lay Out Tile Walls in a Bathtub Alcove
Make a story pole to mark the tile layout on wal ls. Beginning with the back wall, measure up and1 For square tiles, set a row of tiles (and plastic spacers, if they will be used) in the selected pattern 2 mark a point at a distance equal to the height of one ceramic tile (if the tub edge is not level, measure on a flat surface. Mark a straight 1 x 2 to match the up from the lowest spot). Draw a level line through tile spacing . Include any narrow trim tiles or accent this point, along the entire back wall . This line repre- tiles. For rectangular and odd-shaped tiles, make sents a ti le grout line and wil l be used as a reference separate sticks for the horizontal and vertical layouts. line for making the enti re tile layout.
Roar-d Board
Vertical
line
C1.m~nt B~.ard
Original
~ ~int
Measure and mark the midpoint on the horizontal Use a level to draw a vertical reference line3 reference line. Using the story pole, mark along the reference line where the vertical grout joints will 4 through the adjusted midpoint from the tub edge to the ceiling. Measu re up from the tub edge along be located . If the story pole shows that the corner the vertical reference line and mark the rough he ight tiles will be less than half of a full tile width, move the of the top row of tiles . midpoint half the width of a tile in either direction and mark (shown in next step) .
190
Boar-d
BQ<lrd
Use the story pole to mark the horizontal grout Use a level to draw an adjusted horizontal refer-5 joints along the vertical reference line , beginning at the mark for the top row of tiles . If the cut tiles at 6 ence line through the vertical reference line at a grout joint mark c lose to the center of the layout. This the tub edge will be less than ha lf the height of a full splits the tile area into four workable quadrants. tile, move the top row up half the height of a tile. NOTE: If til ing to a ceiling, evenly divide the tiles to be cut at the ceiling and tub edge , as for the corner tiles in steps 3 and 4.
Tile shown
Installed for clarity
Use a level to transfer the adjusted horizontal ref- Variation : To wrap the final column of tile around the7 erence line from the back wall to both side walls, then follow step 3 through step 6 to layout both side outside edge of the bathtub , beg in your layout on a side wall. Make adjustments based on the tile to be wa lls. Adjust the layout as needed so the final column notch-cut for the edge of the bathtub- the tile should of tiles ends at the outside edge of the tub. Use only be at least half a tile width and he ight. Transfer the the adjusted horizontal and vertical reference lines adjusted horizontal reference line to the other walls for ceramic tile installation. and finish the layout.
191How to Install Ceramic Wall Tile in a Bathtub Alcove
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•After marking the tile layout, fix a sma ll batch of Use the edge of the trowel to create fur rows in the 1 th in-set mortar containing a latex additive . (Some mortar has additive mixed in by the manufactu rer and 2 mortar . Set the first tile in the corner of the quad- rant where the lines intersect, using a slight twisting some must have additive mixed separately.) Spread motion. Align the ti le exactly with both reference adhesive on a small section of the wall, along both lines. When placing cut tiles , pos ition the cut edges legs of one quadrant, using a Y4” notched trowel. where they will be least visible.
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Continue installing tiles , working from the center out into the field of Variation: In some instances it is3 the quadrant. Keep the tiles aligned with the reference lines and tile in one quadrant at a time . If the tiles are not self-spacing , use plastic spac- more practical to apply mortar to the tile rather than the wa ll. Cover ers inserted in the corner joints to maintain even grout lines (inset). The the back of the tile with mortar, base row against the tub edge should be the last row of tiles installed. To then press the tile in position with cut tiles at inside corners, see step 5 on the opposite page. a slight twisting motion.
192
4the Aslaying small sections are completed, set the tile by a scrap of 2 x 4 wrapped with carpet onto tile and rapping it lightly with a mallet. This em- 5 To mark tiles for straight cuts, begin by taping ‘AJ”-thick spacers aga inst the surfaces below and to the side of the tile . Position a tile directly over the beds the tile solid ly in the adhesive and creates a last ful l tile instal led (A) , then place a third tile so the flat , even surface. edge butts against the space rs (6) . Trace the edge of the top tile onto the middle tile to mark it for cutting .
Install trim tiles, such as the bullnose tiles shown Mark and cut tiles to fit around all plumbing ac-6alongabove , at border areas. Wipe away excess mortar the top edges of the edge tiles. 7 cessories or plumbing fixtures.
(continued next page)
193How to Install Ceramic Wall Tile in a Bathtub Alcove (continued)
—-------,—~~-—~-’
Install any ceramic accessories , such as soap Let mortar dry completely (12 to 24 hours), then8 dishes , by applying thin-set mortar to the back side , then pressing the accessory into place. Use 9 mix a batch of grout containing latex additive. Ap- ply the grout with a rubber grout float, using a sweep- masking tape to support the weight until the mortar ing motion, and hold at a 30° angle to force it deep dries ( INSET) . into the joints. Do not grout the joints adjoining the bathtub, floor , and corners. These will serve as ex- pansion joints and will be caulked later.
10 Wipe a damp grout sponge diagonally over the tiles , rinsing between wipes. Wipe only 11 When the grout has cured completely, use a smal l foam brush to apply grout sealer 12 Fill the tub with water , then seal expansion joints around the bathtub , floor, and corners once; repeated wiping can pull to the joints, following the manu- with silicone caulk. After the caulk grout from the joints. Let grout dry facturer ‘s directions. Avoid brush- dries, drain the tub and then buff for about 4 hours , then buff the tile ing sealer on the tile surfaces, the tile with a dry , soft cloth. surface with a soft cloth to remove and wipe up excess sealer any remaining grout film . immediately.
194
Variation : How to Tile Bathroom Walls
Layout adjusted so the row Tiles at each end of the
of accent tiles is unbroken same wall should be
by medicine cabinet. cut to a similar size.
Row of trimmed tiles should
be positioned near the top Tiles above tub should be
and bottom of tiled area to lull size or nearly full size.
make them less obvious.
•Tiling an entire bathroom requires careful planning . The short second row also allows the row of accent tiles The bathroom shown here was designed so that the to run uninterrupted below the medicine cabinet. Cut tiles directly above the bathtub (the most visible sur· tiles in both corners should be of similar width to main· face) are nearly full height. To accomplish this, cut tain a symmetrical look in the room. tiles were used in the second row up from the floor.
Bullnose
border tile
Greenboard ~:::
Cut tile ...._.. Cementboard
Vertical
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~" ~;;.Cabinet outlines reference lines !H :iC .:. Vertical referince Ori9inal’:~’ line ’ referenc ’”; line
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•• Cut tile 'h::'." reference
; lineThe key to a successful wall-tile project is the layout. other features in the room. After establishing the work· Mark the wall to show the planned location of all wall ing reference lines , mark additional vertical reference cabinets, fixtures, and wall accessories , then locate lines on the walls every 5 to 6 tile spaces along the ad· the most visible horizontal line in the bathroom, which justed horizontal reference line to split large walls into is usually the top edge of the bathtub . Follow steps on smaller , workable sections , then install the tile. NOTE: pages 190 to 191 to establish the layout, using a story Premixed, latex mastic adhesives generally are ac· pole to see how the tile pattern will run in relation to the ceptable for wall tile in dry areas.
Tiling a Kitchen Backsplash
There are few spaces in your horne with as
much potential for creativity and visual impact as
the space between your kitchen countertop and
cupboards. A well-designed backsplash can
transform the ordinary into the extraordinary.
Tiles for the backsplash can be attached directly
to wallboard or plaster and do not require
backerboard. When purchasing the tile , order 10
percent extra to cover breakage and cutting . Re-
move switch and receptacle coverplates and in-
stall box extenders to make up for the extra
thickness of the tile. Protect the countertop from
scratches by covering it with a drop cloth. See
page 223 for tile cutting tips.
Tools and Materials
Tools: Level, tape measure, pencil , tile cutter, rod
saw, notched trowel , rubber grout float, beating
block, rubber mallet, sponge , bucket.
Materials: Straight 1 x 2, wall tile, tile spacers (if
needed), bullnose trim tile, mastic tile adhesive ,
masking tape, grout, caulk, drop cloth, grout
sealer.Tips for Planning Tile Layouts
. .
;' .
• • • • • •
...
... _-
'"Gather planning brochures and - --- Break tiles into fragments and Add painted mural tiles to create design catalogs to help you create make a mosaic backsplash . Al- a focal point. Mixing various tile decorative patterns and borders ways use a sanded grout for joints styles adds an appealing contrast. for the backsplash. wider than ii” .
196
How to Tile a Kitchen Backsplash
Make a story stick by marking a board at least1 half as long as the backsplash area to match the tile spacing.
Starting at the midpoint of the instal lation area,2 use the story stick to make layout marks along the wall. If an end piece is too small (less than half a tile) , adjust the midpoint to give you larger, more at- tractive end pieces. Use a level to mark this point with a vertical reference line .
While it may appear straight, your countertop may not be level and therefore is not a rel iable reference line. 3 Run a level along the counter to find the lowest point on the countertop . Mark a point two tiles up from the low point and extend a level line across the entire work area .
(continued next page)
197How to Tile a Kitchen Backsplash (continued)
t I Il I
>
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Border
FieldVariation : Diagonal Layout. Mark vertical and horizontal reference lines, making sure the angle is 90 0 • To es- tablish diagonal layout lines , measure out equal distances from the crosspoint , then connect the points with a line . Additional layout lines can be extended from these as needed. To avoid the numerous, unattractive perimeter cuts common to diagonal layouts, try using a standard border pattern as shown . Diagonally set a fie ld of full tiles only, then cut enough half tiles to fill out the perimeter. Finally, border the diagonal fie ld with tiles set square to the fie ld.
Apply mastic adhesive evenly Starting at the vertical reference Install a whole row along the4 to the area beneath the hori- zontal reference line, using a 5 line, press tiles into the adhesive with a slight twisting motion. If the 6 reference line , checking occa- sionally to make sure the tiles are notched trowel. Comb the adhe- tiles are not self-spacing, use plas- level. Continue installing tiles be- sive horizontally with the notched tic spacers to maintain even grout low the first row, trimming ti les that edge. lines. If the tiles do not hang in place, butt against the countertop as use masking tape to hold them in needed . place unti l the adhesive sets.
198
, 1
App ly adhesive to an area When the tiles are in place, make Mix the grout and apply it with7placing above the line and continue tiles , working from the 8 sure they are flat and firmly em- bedded by laying a beating block 9 a rubber grout float. Spread it over the tiles, keeping the float at center to the sides. Install trim tile, against the tile and rapping it lightly a low 30° angle , pressing the such as bullnose tile, to the edges with a mallet. Remove the spacers . grout deep into the joints. Note: of the rows. Allow the mastic to dry for at least For grout joints );;” and smaller, be 24 hours, or as directed by the sure to use a non-sanded grout. manufacturer .
-. '..:"10 Wipe off excess grout, holding the float at a right angle to the tile, working diagonally so as not to remove grout from the joints. Clean any re- 11 Shape the grout joints by making slow, short passes with the sponge, shaving down any high spots; rinse the sponge frequently . Fill any voids maining grout from the tiles with a damp sponge, with a fingerful of grout. When the grout has dried to working in a circu lar motion. Rinse the sponge thor- a haze , buff the tile clean with a soft c loth. Apply a oughly and often. bead of caulk between the countertop and tiles. Rein- stall any electrical fixtures you removed. After the grout has completely cured, app ly a grout sealer.
199Installing Interior Trim The term “trim” refers to all of the moldings that Crown molding decorates the intersection of dress up walls and ceilings , hide gaps and walls and ceilings. Most crown molding is joints between surfaces, and adorn window and “sprung,” meaning it is installed at an angle to door frames. As a decorating tool, trim lends a its nailing surfaces, leaving a hollow space be- sculptural quality to otherwise flat surfaces and hind it. It can be bu ilt-up with several styles to can have a dramatic effect on any room in the create custom looks. In addition to wood, crown house. Working with trim involves a few specific moldings can be made with plastic polymers , of- cuts and techniques , but once you learn them, ten in ornate, one-p iece styles. you can install almost any type. Casing is trim that covers the edges of door and window jambs. Picture rail is a traditional molding that installs ~crown molding parallel to crown molding and has a protruding, rounded edge that holds hooks for hanging pic- tures. Similarly, chair rail runs horizontally along Picture rail walls, though at a height of 30” to 36” to serve as
/ a border for wallpaper or wainscot, or as a tran - sition between different paint colors. Both chair and picture rail are installed like baseboard. Baseboard covers the bottoms of walls along floor. Styles range from single-piece to built-up versions that include a base cap and a base shoe. Base shoe is a small, flexible molding that can follow contours in the floor to hide gaps left by baseboard. Baseboard covers the bottoms of walls along the floor. Styles range from single-piece to built- up versions that include a base cap and a base shoe installed at the floor. Base shoe is small, typically rounded molding that is flexible and can follow contours in the floor to hide gaps left by the baseboard Casing To avoid problems due to shrinkage after instal - lation, stack the trim in the room where it will be installed and allow it to acclimate for several days. Apply a coat of primer or sealer to all sides of each piece, and let it dry thoroughly be- fore installing it. You may also choose to paint or stain the trim before installing it. Attach wood trim with finish nails, which have small heads that you drive be low the surface us- ing a nail set. Nai ls for most trim are size 6d or smaller, depending on the thickness of the trim and the wall surface. At a minimum, nails should be long enough to penetrate the framing by at least 3/4”; heavier trim requires nails with more holding power. Use finish screws for securing trim to steel studs. After the trim is installed and all the nails are set, fill the nail holes with wood putty, and touch up the areas with paint or stain.
How to Plan Your Trim Layout .— -. . ~------------------------------’.-------~~
I
~ Butted to wall 1 2
I \ Scarf joint
Coped joint
3
5
Mitered joint
4
6
8 7Plan the order of your trim installation to minimize the end and mitered on the other, such as #4 above, cut number of difficult cuts on individual pieces . Use the and fit the coped end first. Also keep in mind the nail- longest pieces of mo lding for the most visible walls , ing points- mark all framing members you’ll be nailing saving the shorter ones for less conspicuous areas. into before starting the installation (see below) . At a When possible, place the joints so they point away minimum , all trim should be nailed at every wall stud , from the direct line of sight from the room’s entrance. and every ceiling joist, if applicable . Insta ll door and At inside corners, butted and coped joints are prefer- window casing before installing horizontal molding able to mitered joints. If a piece will be coped on one that will butt into it.
'j;====d.
•
•
•
Coped
joint Outside- •", .A C: OI\I .
corner
miter
Scarf jointThe basic joints for trim are shown here. A scarf joint (see page 203) Mark stud locations throug hout joins two pieces along a length of wall. Coped joints join contoured mold- the project area, using a penc il or ing at inside corners. The first piece is butted into the corner; the second painter’s tape placed 6-in. above piece is cut and fitted against the face of the first (see page 203). Miter the molding height. Use a stud joints are made with two 45’ -ang le cuts. To help with measuring and fit- finder- an electronic device that ting miter joints, make a pattern by miter-cutting both ends of a scrap uses sonic waves to locate the piece of trim. Hold the pattern against the wa ll at outside corners to test- edges of framing behind walls and fit and position cut pieces. ceiling surfaces- to determine the center of studs and joists.
201Tips for Cutting Trim
A basic miter box, made of wood Swivel-type miter boxes rotate Power miter saws make very or metal, and a backsaw are the and lock the blade into position for accurate cuts. Their bases swivel simplest tools for making clean cutting a wide range of angles. and lock into position , and their cuts in trim. These typically cut Some types have a special saw large blades cut cleanly with mini- only 90’ and 45’ angles. A back- used only for the miter box; other ma l tearout. Standard miter saws saw is a short handsaw with a stiff types have clamps that accept are fixed vertically, whi le com- spine that keeps the blade straight standard backsaws. pound miter saws tilt to make whi le cutting. To cut crown mold- beve l- and miter-cuts in one ing , see below. stroke.
To miter-cut crown molding using a miter box or Variation : To cut crown molding using a compound standard miter saw, flip the molding upside down, miter saw, lay the molding flat on the saw table and and place the flats on the back side of the mo lding set the miter and bevel angles . For outside-corner against the table and fence of the saw (th ink of the miters , the standard settings are 33’ (miter) and table as the ceiling and the fence as the wall). 31.62’ (bevel) . These settings on the gauges often are highlighted for easy identification.
202
Coped joints form neat inside corners for contoured molding. To make a coped cut , cut the end of the molding at a 45° angle, so that the back side is longer than the front side. Using a coping saw, cut along the front edge of the molding , following the contour exactly. Ang le the saw slightly toward the back side to create a sharp edge along the contour. Test-fit the cut using a scrap piece of molding. The coped piece should fit snugly against the profile of the scrap piece. If necessary, make small adjustments to the contoured edge, using sand- paper or a utility knife.
Making Scarf Joints & Mitered Returns
Mitered
joint \
Straight
cutScarf joints (or field joints) are For crown molding and other Mitered returns finish molding used for joining molding on long sprung molding, cut the first piece ends that would otherwise be ex- runs. They help hide gaps if the at a 30° angle. Install the first posed. Miter the main piece as wood shrinks. To make a scarf piece , but nail only to with in 2 ft. of you would at an outside corner. joint , cut the first piece at 45° so the joint. Cut the second piece at Cut a miter on the return piece , the end grain shows at the front. 30° in the opposite direction- it’s then cut it to length with a straight Install the piece, but don’t nail it best to do this without adjusting cut so it butts to the wall. Attach within 2 ft. of the joint. Cut the sec- the saw between cuts. Test-fit the the return piece with wood glue. ond piece at 45° in the opposite joint, then apply wood glue to the direction from the first. Fit the joint mating surfaces and fasten both together, then fasten both pieces. pieces completely.
203Tips for Fastening Trim
Finish nails are the best fasteners for most trim (in- Power nailers automatically drive and set special fin- set). Drive the nails close to the surface with a ham- ish nails. Traditional models use compressed air, but mer, then countersink, or set, them about 1/16” deep a variety of battery-powered consumer nailers are into the wood, using a nail set with a point slightly now available at home centers. Either style can also smaller than the nail head. Drill pilot holes for the be rented. Power nailers simplify your work consider- nails in hardwood or small pieces of trim, to prevent ably by al lowing you to hold the trim while nailing and splitting . At a minimum , nails should be long enough eliminating the banging caused by hammering. They to penetrate the supporting material by 3/4 ”; heavier also eliminate the need for pilot ho les, and they coun- moldings require longer nails. tersink the nails automatically.
,~
• If
""
"Crown molding should be posi- Where there’s no framing to nail Fasten baseboard as shown here, tioned so the flats are flush against into, such as along walls parallel nailing the main baseboard into the the wall and ceiling. Drill pilot to joists , secure the top edge of wall studs and the bottom plate at holes, and drive finish nails molding with construction adhe- each stud location . If you’re in- through the flats of the molding at sive. Using power nailer, drive stalling a built-up molding, run the the stud and ceiling-joist locations. pairs of nails at opposing angles main baseboard first, then add the Note: To prevent splitting, slightly every 16” along the top flat. Nail cap and base shoe. Nail the cap offset the nails so they are not in the bottom edge at each stud lo- into the baseboard or the wall line vertically. cation. studs , depending on the thickness of the baseboard. Nail the shoe to the floor only, to prevent gapping if the baseboard shrinks.
204
How to Install Baseboard
Locate and mark the wall studs. Following your trim layout plan (page Variation : If you have contoured1 201) cut the ends of the first piece to fit from corner to corner. For butted and coped joint at the inside corners, cut the piece long by about mo lding and you ‘re coping the in- side corners, cope the second ‘116” then bend it out at the center and spring it into place against the wall. piece to follow the profile of the Nail the first piece as shown in the illustration opposite (page 204). Butt first (see page 203) . If the other the second piece tightly against the face of the first piece and fasten it. end of the second piece is butted into a corner, cut the piece long by ‘11 6”, and spring it into place.
Mark molding at outside corner by fitting the end Cut the outside end of the base shoe piece at 45° ,2 of the piece into the corner (butting, mitering , or coping, according to your plan), then marking where 3 and test-fit it to ensure a tight fit. Use sandpaper or a file to shape the end . Fasten the piece , stopping the back side of the molding meets the outside cor- about 2-ft. short of the outside corner. Complete the ner of the wall. nailing when the mating piece is in place.
205Installing Polymer How to Install Polymer Crown Molding
Crown Molding
Polymer moldings come in a variety of ornate, single-piece styles that offer easy installation and maintenance. The polystyrene or polyurethane material is as easy to cut as softwood , but unlike wood, the material won ‘t shrink, and it can be re- paired with vinyl spackling compound. You can buy polymer moldings preprimed for painting , or you can stain it with a non-penetrating heavy-body stain or gel. Most polymers come in 12-fl. lengths, and some have corner blocks that eliminate corner cuts. There are even flexible moldings for curved walls.
Everything You Need Tools: Dril l with countersink-piloting bit, power Plan the layout of the molding pieces by measur- miter saw or hand miter box and fine-tooth saw, caulk gun , putty knife . 1 ing the wal ls of the room and making light pencil marks at the joint locations. For each piece that starts or Materials: Crown molding, finish nails, 150-grit ends at a corner, add 12” to 24” to compensate for waste. If possible, avoid pieces shorter than 36” , be- sandpaper, rag , mineral spirits, polymer ad- cause short pieces are more difficult to fit. hesive, 2” drywall screws, vinyl spackling compound, paintable latex caulk.
Hold a section of molding against the wall and To make the miter cuts for the first corner, position2 ce iling in the finished position. Make light pencil marks on the wall every 12” along the bottom edge of 3 the molding faceup in a miter box . Set the ceiling side of the molding against the horizontal table of the the molding. Remove the molding , and tack a finish miter box, and set the wall side against the vertical nail at each mark. The nails will hold the molding in back fence (see page 202). Make the cut at 45°. place while the adhesive dries. If the wall surface is plaster, drill pilot holes for the nails.
206
Check the uncut ends of each Lightly sand the backs of the Set the molding in place with4 molding piece before installing it. Make sure mating pieces wil l butt 5 molding that will contact the wall and ceiling, using 150-grit 6 the mitered end tight to the corner and the bottom edge resting together squarely in a tight joint. sandpaper. Slightly dampen a rag on the nails. Press along the mold- Cut all square ends at 90 0 , using a with mineral spirits, and wipe away ing edges to create a good bond. miter saw or hand miter box. the dust. Run a small bead of At each end of the piece, drive 2” polymer adhesive (recommended drywall screws through counter- or supplied by the manufacturer) sunk pilot holes through the flats along both sanded edges . and into the ceiling and wall.
..
,
-
Cut, sand, and glue the next piece of molding. Carefully remove the finish nails and fill the nail7 Apply a bead of adhesive to the end where the in- stalled molding will meet the new piece. Install the 8 holes with vinyl spackling compound . Fill the screw holes in the molding and any gaps in the joints new p iece, and secure the ends with screws, making with paintable latex caulk or filler, and wipe away ex- sure the ends are joined properly. Install the remain- cess caulk with a damp cloth or a wet finger. Smooth ing molding pieces, and let the adhesive dry. the caulk over the holes so it’s flush with the surface.
207
Installing Door and Window
Casing
Casings cover the gaps between window and
door jambs and the surfaces of surrounding
walls. In order for them to fit properly, the jambs
and wall surfaces must lie in the same plane. If
one of them protrudes, the casing will not lie flush.
If the jambs protrude, shave them down with a
block plane. If the jambs are shallow, which is
often the case with 2 x 6 walls, build up the jamb
with an extension of 1x finish -grade lumber.
Door and window casing should be installed be-
fore horizontal moldings that will butt into it. In
most situations, it's easier to paint the walls before
you install the casing. You can also save time by
pre-painting or staining the casing before cutting
and installing it. To help ensure tight joints, test
fit all pieces prior to installation, and use a power
nailer to fasten casing in place.
Everything You Need
Tools: Tape measure, straightedge, pencil, miter
saw, hammer and nail set or power nailer, plane
or rasp.
Materials: Casing material, 4d and 6d finish
nails, wood putty.How to Install Door or Window Casing
On each jamb , mark a reveal line ‘Al” from the inside Place a length of casing along one side jamb , flush edge. The casing will be installed flush with these with the reveal line. At the top and bottom of the lines. NOTE: You can set the reveal at whatever di- molding, mark the points where horizontal and verti- mension you choose, but make sure it’s equal on all cal reveal lines meet. (When working with doors , jambs. mark the molding at the top only.)
208
Make 45° miter cuts on the ends of the moldings . Drill pilot holes spaced every 12” to prevent split- Measure and cut the other vertical molding pieces, ting, and attach the vertical casings with 4d finish using the same method. nails driven through the casings and into the jambs. Drive 6d finish na ils into the framing members near the outside edge of the casings .
Measure the distance between TIP: “Black-cut” the ends of cas- Locknail the corner joints. Drill the side casings , and cut top and ing pieces whe re needed to help pilot holes and drive 4d finish nails bottom casings to fit, with ends create tight joints, using a sharp through each corner, or drive fin- mitered at 45° If window or door utility kn ife . ishing nails through each corner unit is not perfectly square, make with power nailer, as shown. If test cuts on sc rap pieces to find necessary, drive al l nail heads be- the correct angle of the joints. Dril l low the wood surface , using a nail pilot holes and attach with 4d and set, then fill the na il holes with 6d finish nails . wood putty .
209Repairing Walls & Ceilings Repairing Wallboard … … … … 212
Repairing Plaster … . … 217
Repl aci ng Sheet Paneling … . … 220
Repai ring Ceramic Tile … … … . ......... 222
Repairing Wallcovering … … 224
Repairing Ceilings … … 226
Repai ring Water Damaged Walls & Ceilings … 228
Removing Wall & Ceiling Surfaces… … … … . .. 230
211
Repairing Wallboard
Patching holes and concealing
popped nails are common wall-
board repairs. Small holes can
be filled directly, but larger
patches must be supported
with some kind of backing,
such as plywood. To repair
holes left by nails or screws,
dimple the hole slightly with the
handle of a utility knife or wall-
board knife and fill it with
spackle or joint compound.Most wallboard problems can be remedied with basic wallboard materi- als and specialty materials: wallboard screws (A); paper joint tape (B); Use joint tape anywhere the self-adhesive fiberglass mesh tape (C) ; corner bead (D); paintable latex wallboard’s face paper or joint or silicone caulk (E); all-purpose joint compound (F); lightweight spack- tape has torn or peeled away. ling compound (G); wallboard repair patches (H); scraps of wallboard (I); Always cut away any loose and wallboard repair clips (J). wallboard material, face paper, or joint tape from the damaged area, trimming back to solid wallboard material. All wallboard repairs require three coats of joint compound , just like in new installations. Lightly sand your repairs be- fore painting , or adding texture.
2"
Everything You Need
Tools : Dril l or screwgun , ham-
mer, utility knife , wallboard
knives, framing square, wall-
board saw, rasp, hacksaw,
fine metal file.
Materials: 11,4' wallboardTo repair a popped nail , drive a If wallboard is dented , without screws, all-purpose joint com- wallboard screw 2” above or below cracks or tears in the face paper, pound , lightweight spackle, the nail, so it pulls the panel tight to just fill the hole with lightweight 150-grit sandpaper, wood the framing. Scrape away loose spackling or al l-pu rpose joint com- scraps, paper joint tape , self- paint or compound, then drive the pound , let it dry, and sand it adhesive fiberglass mesh joint popped nail \116” below the sur- smooth. tape, wallboard repair patch , face. Apply three coats of joint wallboard repair clips. compound to cover the holes.
212
How to Repair Cracks & Gashes
Use a utility knife to cut away loose wallboard or Push along the sides of the crack with your hand . If 1 face paper and widen the crack into a “V”; the notch will he lp hold the joint compound. 2 the wallboard moves, secure the panel with 1%” wallboard screws driven into the nearest framing members. Cover the crack and screws with self- adhesive mesh tape.
Cover the tape with compound, lightly forcing it into the mesh , then smooth it off, leaving just enough to con- 3 ceal the tape. Add two more coats , in successively broader and thinner coats to blend the patch into the sur- rounding area.
For cracks at corners or ceilings , cut through the Variation: For small cracks at corners, apply a thin4 existing seam and cut away any loose wallboard material or tape , then apply a new length of tape or bead of paintable latex or silicone cau lk over the crack , then use your finger to smooth the caulk into inside-corner bead and two coats of joint compound. the corner.
213How to Patch Small Holes in Wallboard
Trim away any broken wall- Add two more coats of com-1 board , face paper, or jo int tape around the hole , using a uti lity 2 Cover the tape with all -purpose joint compound, lightly forcing it into the mesh , then smooth it off, 3 pound in successively broader and thinner coats to blend the knife. Cover the ho le with crossed leaving just enough to conceal the patch into the surro unding area. strips of self-adhesive mesh tape. tape. Use a wallboard wet sander to smooth the repair area.
Other Options for Patching Small Holes in Wallboard
Wallboard repair patches: Cover Beveled wallboard patch : Bevel Wallboard paper-flange patch: the damaged area with the self- the edges of the hole with a wall- Cut a wa llboard patch a couple adhesive patch ; the th in metal board saw, then cut a wallboard inches larger than the hole. Mark plate provides support and the patch to fit. Trim the beveled patch the hole on the backside of the fiberglass mesh helps hold the until it fits tight and flush with the patch , then score and snap along joint compound . panel surface . Apply plenty of com- the lines. Remove the waste mate- pound to the beveled edges, then rial , keep ing the face paper “flange” push the patch into the hole. Finish intact. Apply compound around with paper tape and three coats of the hole , insert the patch, and em- compound . bed the flange into the compound. Finish with two additional coats.
214
How to Patch Large Holes in Wallboard
•
Outline the damaged area, us- Cut plywood or lumber backer Cut a drywall patch ~" smaller1 ing a framing square. (Cutting four right angles makes it easier to 2 strips a few inches longer than the height of the cutout. Fasten the 3 than the cutout dimensions, and fasten it to the backer strips measure and cut the patch .) Use a strips to the back side of the dry- with screws. Apply mesh joint tape drywall saw to cut along the outline. wall , using 1%” drywal l screws. over the seams. Finish the seams with three coats of compound.
How to Patch Large Holes with Repair Clips
•
•
•
•
Cut out the damaged area , using a wallboard Cut a new wallboard patch to fit in the hole. Fas-1 saw . Center one repair clip on each edge of the hole . Using the provided wallboard screws, drive one 2 ten the patch to the clips , placing wallboard screws adjacent to the previous screw locations and screw through the wa ll and into the clips ; position the 3/4” from the edge. Remove the tabs from the clips , screws 3/4” from the edge and centered between the then finish the joints with tape and three coats of clip’s tabs . compound .
215How to Patch Over a Removed Door or Window
------------------------
Frame the opening with studs spaced 16" O.C. Us ing wallboard the same thickness as the exist-1 and partial ly beneath the existing wallboard-the new joints should break at the center of framing. Se- 2 ing panel, cut the patch piece about 1,14’ shorte r than the open ing. Position the patch against the fram- cure the existing wallboard to the framing with ing so there is a )t” joint around the perimeter, and screws driven every 12” around the perimeter. If the fasten in place with wallboard screws every 12’ . Fin- wall is insulated, fill the stud cavity with insulation ish the butt joints with paper tape and three coats of (See pages 42 to 43). compound (See pages 106 to 115).
How to Repair Metal Corner Bead
)Secure the bead above and be- Cut a new corner bead to fit the File the seams with a fine metal low the damaged area with 1W opening exactly, then align the fi le to ensure a smooth transition wallboard screws. To remove the spine perfectly with the existing between pieces. If you can’t easily damaged section , cut through the piece and secure with wallboard smooth the seams, cut a new re- spine and then the flanges , using screws driven W from the flange placement piece and start over. a hacksaw he ld parallel to the edge; alternate sides with each Hide the repair with three coats of floor. Remove the damaged sec- screw to keep the piece straight. wallboard compound. tion , and scrape away any loose wal lboard and compound.
216
Repairing Plaster Plaster walls are created by building up layers of plaster to form a hard, durable wall surface. Be- hind the plaster itself is a gridlike layer of wood, metal, or rock lath that holds the plaster in place. Keys, formed when the base plaster is squeezed through the lath, hold the dried plaster to the ceiling or walls. Before you begin any plaster repair, make sure the surrounding area is in good shape . If the lath is deteriorated or the plaster in the damaged area is soft, call a professional. Use a latex bonding liquid to ensure a good bond and a tight , crack-free patch. Bonding liq- uid also eliminates the need to wet the plaster and lath to prevent premature drying and shrink- age , which could ruin the repair.
Everything You Need Tools: Wallboard knives, paintbrush, utility knife . Spackle is used 10 conceal cracks, gashes, and Materials: Lightweight spackle , all-purpose joint small ho les in plaster. Some new spackling com- compound , patching plaster, fiberglass mesh pounds start out pink and dry white so you can see tape, latex bonding liquid, 150-grit sandpaper, when they’re ready to be sanded and painted. Use paint. lightweight spackle for low-shrinkage and one-appli- cation fi lls.
How to Fill Dents & Small Holes in Plaster
/'
Scrape or sand away any loose Fill the hole with lightweight Sand the patch lightly with 150-1 plaster or peeling paint to es- tablish a solid base for the new 2 spackle . App ly the spackle with the smal lest knife that wil l 3 grit production sandpaper. Wipe the dust away with a clean plaster. span the damaged area . Let the cloth, then prime and paint the spackle dry, following the manu- area, feathering the paint to blend facturer’s instructions. the edges.
217
Sand or scrape any texture or Apply latex bonding liquid lib- Mix patching plaster as directed1 loose paint from the area around the hole to create a smooth, firm 2 erally around the edges of the hole and over the base lath to en- 3 by the manufacturer , and use a wallboard knife or trowel to apply it edge. Use a wallboard knife to test sure a crack-free bond between to the hole. Fill shallow holes with the plaster around the edges of the old and new plaster. a single coat of p laster. the damaged area. Scrape away all loose or soft plaster.
For deeper ho les , apply a shal- Use texture paint or wall board Variation: Holes in plaster can also4 low first coat, then scratch a crosshatch pattern in the wet pIas- 5 compound to recreate any sur- face texture. Practice on heavy be patched with wallboard. Score the damaged surface with a utility ter. Let it dry , then apply second cardboard until you can duplicate knife and chisel out the plaster back coat of plaster. Let the plaster dry, the wall’s surface. Prime and paint to the center of the closest framing and sand it lightly. the area to finish the repair. members. Cut a wallboard patch to size, then secure in place with wallboard screws driven every 4” into the framing . Finish joints as you would standard wallboard joints. 218
How to Patch Holes Cut in Plaster
Cut a piece of wire mesh larger than the hole, using Apply a coat of patching plaster, forcing it into the aviation snips . Tie a length of twine at the center of mesh and covering the edges of the hole. Scratch a the mesh and insert the mesh into the wall cavity. cross-hatch pattern in the wet plaster , then allow it to Twist the wire around a dowel that is longer than the dry. Remove the dowel and trim the wire holding the width of the hole, until the mesh pulls tight against the mesh . Apply a second coat , fill ing the hole comp letely. opening. Apply latex bonding liquid to the mesh and Add texture. Let dry, then scrape away any excess the edges of the hole. plaster. Sand, prime, and pa int the area.
How to Repair Cracks in Plaster
Scrape away any texture or loose plaster around1 the crack. Using a utility knife, cut back the edges of the crack to create a keyway (inset). The keyway will help lock the patch in place and prevent recracking.
Add two more coat of compound, in success ively2 Work joint compound into the keyway using a 6’ knife, then embed mesh tape into the compound , 3 broader and thinner coats , to blend the patch into the surrounding area. Lightly sand, then retexture the lightly forcing the compound through the mesh. Smooth repair area to match the wall. Prime and paint it to fin- the compound, leaving just enough to conceal the tape. ish the repair.
219
Replacing Sheet Paneling
Despite its durability, prefinished sheet paneling
occasionally requires repairs . Many scuff marks
can be removed with a light coat of paste wax ,
and most small scratches can be disguised with
a touchup stick.
Paneling manufacturers do not recommend try-
ing to spot-sand or refinish prefinished paneling.
The most common forms of significant damage
to paneling are water damage and punctures. If
paneling has suffered major damage, the only
way to repair it is to replace the affected sheets.
If the paneling is more than a few years old, it
may be difficult to locate matching pieces. If you
can 't find any at lumber yards or building centers ,
try salvage yards. Buy the panels in advance so
that you can condition them to the room before
installing them. To condition the paneling, place
it in the room, standing on its long edge. PlaceMost scuffs in paneling can be polished out using spacers between the sheets so air can circulate paste wax. To use, make sure the panel surface is around each one. Let the paneling stand for 24 clean and dust free, then apply a thin even coat of hours if it will be installed above grade , and 48 paste wax using a clean soft cloth. Work in small ar- hours if it will be installed below grade. eas using a circular motion. Allow to dry until a paste becomes hazy (5 to 10 minutes), then buff with a new Before you go any further, find out what’s behind cloth . Apply a second coat if necessary. the paneling . Building Codes often require that paneling be backed with wallboard . This is a good idea, even if Code doesn ‘t require it. The support provided by the wallboard keeps the paneling from warping and provides an extra layer of sound protection . However, if there is wallboard behind the paneling, it may need re- pairs as well , particularly if you’re dealing with water damage . And removing damaged panel- ing may be more difficult if it’s glued to wallboard or a masonry wall. In any case , it’s best to have a clear picture of the situation before you start cutting into a wall. Finally, turn off the electricity to the area and re- move all receptacle covers and switch plates on the sheets of paneling that need to be replaced.
Everything You Need
Tools: Wallboard knife , putty knife, flat pry bar,Touch-up and fill sticks can help hide most fram ing square , linoleum knife, hammer, ch isel , scratches in prefinished paneling. Wax touch-up caulk gun, rubber mallet, nail set. sticks are like crayons- simply trace over the scratch with the stick. To use a fi ll stick, apply a smal l amount Materials: Replacement panels, spray paint, of the material into the surface and smooth it over the panel adhesive , color-matched paneling nails, scratch using a flexible putty knife. Wipe away ex- shims, finish nails, putty sticks, and wood filler. cess fill with a clean , soft cloth.
220
How to Replace a Strip of Pane Ii
Carefully remove the baseboard and top mo ld- Draw a line on the panel from top to bottom, 3-in.1 ings. Use a wallboard or putty knife to create a gap, then insert a pry bar and pull the trim away from 2 to 4-in. from each edge of the panel. Hold a fram- ing square along the line and cut with a linoleum the wall. Remove all the nails. knife . Using a fair amount of pressure, you should cut through the panel within two passes. If you have trou- ble , use a hammer and chisel to break the panel along the scored lines.
Insert a pry bar under the panel at the bottom, On the back of the panel , apply zigzag beads of3 and pull up and away from the wa ll, removing nails as you go. Once the center portion of the panel 4 panel adhesive from top to bottom every 16”, about 2” in from each edge, and around cutouts. Tack is removed, scrape away any old adhesive, using a the panel into position at the top , using co lor-matched putty knife. Repair the vapor barrier if damaged; paneling nails. When the adhesive has set up , press below-grade applications may require a layer of 4mil the panel to the wall and tap along stud lines with a polyethylene between outside wal ls and paneling. rubber mallet, creating a tight bond between the ad- Measure and cut the new panel , including any nec- hesive and wall . Drive finish nails at the base of the essary cutouts , and test-fit the panel. panel to hold it while the adhesive dries. Replace all trim pieces and fill nail holes with wood filler.
221
Repairing Ceramic Tile
Ceramic tile is du rable and nearly maintenance-
free , but it can fail or develop problems. The
most common p roblem involves damaged grout.
Failed grout is unattractive, but the real danger
is that it offers a point of entry for water. Given a
chance to wo rk its way beneath grout, wate r can
destroy a tile base and eventually wreck an en-
tire installation. It's important to reg rou t ceramic
tile and re p lace any b roken tiles as soon as you
see signs of damage.
NOTE: Before the 1960s, ceramic tile was set in a
masonry base. If your tile is of this vintage , con-
tact a p rofessional for repai rs.
Everything You NeedMost tile repairs involve removing grout. And al- Tools: Rotary tool, grout cutter, awl, or utility knife ; though it’s not difficult, doing it well takes more time grout float, hammer, chisel, small pry bar, than you might think. There are tools available that sponge, eye protection . make the job relatively easy. A rotary tool with a stra ight carbide bit and joint gu ide makes short work Materials : Replacement tile, tile adhesive , mask- of removing grout on big jobs, while a grout cutter is ing tape, grout, cloth or rag , rubbing alcohol , perfect for smaller projects. You can also use an aw l mildew remover, silicone or latex caulk, sealer. or utility knife (see below).
How to Regrout Ceramic Tile
Scrape out the old grout com- Clean and rinse the grout Wipe away excess grout with a1 pletely, leaving a clean bed for the new grout. Use a rotary tool or 2 joints, then spread grout over the entire project area, using a 3 damp sponge . When the grout is dry, wipe away the residue and grout cutter (above), or an aw l or rubber grout float or sponge. Work pol ish the tiles with a dry cloth . utility knife . the grout well into the joints and let it set slightly.
222
How to Replace a Broken Ceramic Tile
Remove grout from the surrounding jo ints. Break Test fit the new tile and make sure it fits and sits1 the damaged tile into smal l pieces using a ham- mer and chisel. Remove the broken pieces , then use 2 flush with the old tile. (If the tile needs to be cut, see below.) Spread adhesive on the back of the re- a utility knife to scrape any debris or old adhesive placement tile, then place it in the hole, twisting from the open area. slightly to make sure the tile makes good contact with the wall. Use masking tape to hold the tile in place for 24 hours before grouting (see opposite page) .
Tips for Cutting Ceramic Tile
For straight cuts, use a ti le cutter. You can also cut tile with a rod For curved cuts, mark the curve on Align the cutting wheel with the saw: Fit a tungsten carbide rod the tile, then use the scoring wheel reference mark, press down the saw blade into a coping saw of a handheld tile cutter to score a hand le firmly to score a cutting body. Firmly support the tile and cut line. Make several parallel line, then snap the handle to use a sawing motion to cut the tile. scores , no more than %“apart , in quickly break the tile cleanly. the waste portion of the tile. Use tile nippers to nibble away the scored portion of the tile.
223Repairing Wallcovering
Loosened seams and bubbles are common wall- If you need to patch an area of wallcovering but covering problems, but both are easy to remedy don’t have remnants available, you can remove using a little adhesive and a sponge. For papers a section of wallcovering from an inconspicuous that are compatible with water, use a clean , spot , such as inside a closet or behind a door. damp sponge . For other types of papers (grass- You can camouflage the spot by painting the cloth or flocked wallcoverings, for example), hole with a color that blends into the back- clean fingers are probably the best choice. ground of the wallcovering. Scratches, tears or obvious stains can be patched so successfully that the patch is difficult to spot. Whenever you hang wallcoverings , save Everything You Need remnants for future repairs. It’s also a good idea to record the name of the manufacturer as well Tools: Edge roller, syringe-type adhesive appli- as the style and run numbers of the wallcover- cator, sponge , utility knife. ings. Write this information on a piece of mask- Materials: Adhesive, removable tape, wallcover- ing tape and put it on the back of a switchplate ing remnants. in the room.
How to Fix a Bubble
Insert the tip of a glue applica-1thereCut a slit through the bubble, using a sharp razor knife. If is a pattern in the wall cover- 2 tor through the slit and apply adhesive sparingly to the wall un- 3 Press the wallcovering gently to rebond it. Use a clean, damp sponge to press the flap ing , cut along a line in the pattern der the wallcovering. down and wipe away excess glue. to hide the slit.
224
How to Patch Wallcovering
Fasten a scrap of matching wallcovering over the Ho lding a razor knife blade at a 90 0 angle to the 1 damaged portion with drafting tape, so that the patterns match . 2 wa ll, cut through both layers of wallcovering. If the wallcovering has strong pattern lines, cut along the lines to hide the seams. With less definite patterns , cut irregular lines.
How to Fix a Seam
Remove the scrap and patch, then peel away the Lift the edge of the wallcovering and insert the tip of3 damaged wal lcovering. Apply adhesive to the back of the patch and position it in the hole so that a glue applicator under it. Squirt adhesive onto the wall and gently press the seam flat. Let the repair stand the pattern matches . Rinse the patch area with a for .2 hour, then smooth the seam lightly with a seam damp sponge . roller. Wipe the seam lightly with a damp sponge .
225
Repairing Ceilings
Most ceiling repairs are relatively simple: the
techniques used to repair wallboard walls apply
to ceilings as well (pages 212 to 216), while sag-
ging panels can be refastened or replaced eas-
ily; the tongue-and-groove edges of acoustical
tiles make it easy to remove and replace a single
tile ; and textures such as acoustical "popcorn"
can be matched with a little practice on a scrap
of cardboard or simply removed altogether.
However, plaster, by contrast, is difficult to work
with , and replastering is not an option for mostAerosol touch-up products are available for small homeowners. While minor repairs are manage- repairs to ceilings with popcorn and orange peel tex- tures . Use a wallboard knife to scrap away the exist- able , widespread failure of the bond between ing texture at the damaged area and slightly around the plaster coating and the lath foundation can it. Make any necessary repairs, then spray on the be dangerous. If you find large spongy areas or aerosol texture carefully to blend the new texture with extensive sags in your plaster ceiling , consult a the existing ceiling . professional.
How to Remove Popcorn Ceiling Texture
To protect floors and ease Using a pressure sprayer, Scrape texture from the cei ling1 cleanup later, line floors with 6-mil plastic , then cover with cor- 2 dampen the ceiling with a mix- ture of a teaspoon of liquid deter- 3 using a 6-in . wallboard knife . Be careful not to cut into the wall- rugated cardboard to provide a gent per gallon of water. Allow 20 board surface. After all texture is non-slip surface. Caution : Popcorn minutes for the mixture to soak in , removed, sand rough spots , then ceilings in houses built prior to rewetting as necessary. carefully roll up and dispose of the 1980 may contain asbestos. Con- plastic and debris. Patch any tact your local building depart- damaged areas with joint com- ment for regulations governing pound, then prime and paint. asbestos removal.
226
How to Replace Acoustical Cei
Cut out the center section of Trim the upper lip of the At the ceiling, app ly construc-1 the damaged tile with a utility knife. Slide the edges away from 2 grooved edges of the new tile, using a straightedge. If necessary, 3 tion adhesive to the furring strips. Install the new tile , tongue the surrounding tiles. also remove one of the tongues. first, and press it into the adhe- sive. Tip: To hold large tiles in place while the glue dries , lay a flat board across the tile, then prop a 2 x 4 post between the board and the floor.
How to Raise a Sagging Wallboard Ceiling
Position a T-brace und er the Remove loose tape and com-1 lowest point of the sagging area with the bottom end on a 2 pound at joints between loose panels. Starting at one end, drive 3 When the area is securely fas- tened, remove the T-brace . Scrape off any loose chips of paint piece of plywood or hardboard on wallboard screws with broad, thin or wallboard around joints and the floor. Nudge it forward until the washers every 4” through the cen- screws , then fill with compound. sagging panels are tight to the ter of the joint and into the joists. In Cover large cracks or gaps with joists. If fasteners pop through the the field of panel, drive screws 2” fiberglass tape before applying surface, drive them back in. from existing fasteners. the compound.
227Repairing Water Damaged Walls & Ceilings A sure sign of a water problem is discoloration of excess moisture and repair plumbing leaks as and bubbling on the ceiling surface. Water from soon as they are found. a leaky roof or pipe above will quickly find a low If damaged wallboard requires extensive repair, spot or a joint between wallboard panels, soak- resurfacing walls and ceiling with a layer of new ing through to a visible surface in a matter of wallboard may be the best option . Resurfacing minutes. Water in joints is especially damaging is essentially the same installation as hanging because it ruins the edges of two panels at multiple layers of wallboard, and results in a once. If you have a water problem, be sure to fix smooth , flat surface. However, the added wall the leak and allow the damaged wallboard to thickness can affect the appearance of window dry thoroughly before making any repairs . and door trim, which may need to be extended. Whenever water or moisture infiltrates a house, Use 3;8” wallboard for resurfacing- while %” there is always a concern regarding mold. Mold wallboard is thinner, it’s fragile and can be diffi- grows where water and nutrients are present- cult to work with. damp wallboard paper can provide such an en- vironment. You can use a damp rag and baking Everything You Need soda or a small amount of detergent to clean up Tools: Utility saw, utility knife, dril l or screwgun, small areas of mold (less than one square yard) , wallboard knives, 150-grit sandpaper, paint roller though you should wear goggles, rubber gloves, and tray. and a dust mask to prevent contact with mold spores . If mold occupies more area than this, Materials: Wal lboard screws, wallboard (for you may have a more serious problem. Contact patching or resurfacing), construction ad hesive, a mold abatement specialist for assessment and stain-blocking primer/sealer, paper tape, joint remediation. To help prevent mold growth, use compound. exhaust fans and dehumidifiers to rid your home
How to Repair Water Damaged Wallboard
After the source for the water leak has been fixed ,1 cut 4-in. holes at each end of joist and stud bays to help ventilation . Where possible , remove wet or 2 Remove loose tape and compound using a utility knife. Cut back areas of soft wallboard to solid material. To prevent sagg ing, prop waterlogged ceil- damp insulation to dry out. Use fans and dehumidi- ing panels against joists with T-braces (see page 227). fiers to help speed up the drying process.
228
-
Once wallboard is dry, refasten ceiling panels to Tip: If wa llboard contains small areas (less than one3 framing (see page 227) or remove panels that are excessive ly bowed. Reinforce damaged wall panels square yard) of mold on the panel surface, clean with a damp rag and baking soda or detergent. Allow to with wallboard screws driven 2-in . from the existing dry, then continue the repair. Wear protective eye- fasteners. wear, rubber gloves , and a disposable dust mask when c leaning mold. Caution : Larger areas contain- ing mold must be evaluated and treated by a mold abatement specialist.
Patch all vent holes and dam- After the primer/sealer has Variation : Where damage is se-4 aged areas with wallboard (see pages 212 to 216) and re- 5 dried, fin ish al l joints and re- pairs with paper tape and three vere, resu rface with a new layer of W or 3;8” wallboard. Hang new place insulation. Apply a quality coats of compound. If water stains panels perpendicu lar to existing stain-blocking primer/sealer to the bleed through , reseal prior to final wallboard, and use pane l adhe- affected area . Use an oil-based priming and painting. sive to strengthen the bond. See sealer; latex-based sea lers may al- pages 84 to 85 for more informa- low water stains to bleed through . tion on hanging multiple layers of wallboard.
229
Removing
Wall &Ceiling Surfaces
If a wall or ceiling surface is damaged or deteri-
orated beyond repair or if your remodeling pro-
ject requires framing alterations or additionalLocate framing members using a stud finder or by utility lines, you may need to remove the wall knocking on the wall and fee ling for solid points . Ver- and ceiling surfaces. ify the findings by driving finish nai ls through the wall surface. After finding the center of one stud, measure Removing any wall surface is a messy job, but over 16” to locate neighboring studs. it’s not a difficult one. But before you tear into a wall with a hammer or power saw, you need to know what lies inside. Start by checking for hid- Cutaway view den mechanicals in the project area. Wiring that’s in the way can be moved fairly easily, as can water supply pipes and drain vents. If it’s Second gas piping , drain pipe, or ducting, however,
bb~~~~ stillll Ory ~ you’ll probably have to call a professional before you can move to the next step. It’s also a good idea to locate all of the framing members in the project area. Marking all of the studs, plates, and blocking will help guide your cuts and prevent unpleasant surprises. When you ‘re ready to begin demolition, prepare the work area to help contain dust and minimize damage to flooring and other surfaces- tearing out wallboard and plaster creates a very fine dust that easily finds its way into neighboring rooms. Cover doorways (even closed ones) and openings with plastic sheeting. Tape plastic over Check for hidden plumbing lines , ductwork, wiring, HVAC registers to prevent dust from circulating and gas pipes before cutting into a wall. To locate through the system. Protect floors with card- the lines, examine the areas directly below and board or hardboard and plastic or drop cloths. above the project wall. In most cases, pipes , utility Also , carefully remove any trim from the project lines, and ductwork run through the wall vertically be- area, cutting painted joints with a utility knife to tween floors. Original blueprints for your house reduce the damage to the finish. should show the location of many of the utility lines. As an added precaution, turn off the power to all Lead Paint circuits in the work area, and shut off the main water supply if you’ll be making cuts near water Before removing any surface in a home built before pipes. 1980, test for lead, a hazardous substance. (Lead paint additives were banned in 1978, but supplies on hand were sold and used beyond that time.) You Everything You Need can find inexpensive test kits at hardware sto res Tools: Utility knife , pry bar, circular saw with de- and home centers. If tests indicate lead , get expert molition blade, straightedge, maul, masonry advice. Most paint stores and the paint depart- chisel, reciprocating saw with bimetal blade, ment in larger home centers carry free brochures heavy tarp, hammer, protective eyewear, dust on what’s known as “Iead abatement procedures. ” mask. You can also find information at www.epa .gov.
230
Find a loose edge and try to strip Pierce the wallcovering surface Peel away loosened wallcover- off the wallcovering. Vinyls often with a wallpaper scorer (inset) to ing with a 6-in. wallboard knife. Be peel away easily. If the wall cover- allow remover solution to enter carefu l not to damage the plaster ing does not strip by hand , cover and soften the adhesive. Use a or wallboard. Remove all backing the floor with layers of newspaper. pressure sprayer, paint roller, or paper. Rinse adhesive residue Add wallcovering remover fluid to sponge to apply the remover solu- from the wall with remover solu- a bucket of water, as directed by tion. Let it soak into the covering, tion. Rinse with clear water and let the manufacturer. according to the manufacturer’s the walls dry completely. directions.
How to Remove Ceramic Wall Tile
Be sure the floor is covered Begin cutting out small sec- Cut the entire wall surface into1 with a heavy tarp , and the elec- tricity and water are shut off. 2 tions of the wall by inserting a reciprocating saw with a bimetal 3 small sections, removing each section as it is cut. Be careful not Knock a smal l starter hole into the blade into the hole , and cutting to cut through studs. bottom of the wall, using a maul along grout lines. Be careful when and masonry chisel. sawing near pipes and wiring.
231How to Remove Wallboard
Remove baseboard and other trim, and prepare the Insert the end of a pry bar into the cut , near a cor- work area. Set a circular saw to the thickness of the ner of the opening. Pull the pry bar until the wallboard wal lboard, then cut from floor to ceiling . Use a utility breaks, then tear away the broken pieces . Take care knife to finish the cuts at the top and bottom and to to avoid damaging the wallboard outside the planned cut through the taped horizontal seam where the wall rough opening. meets the ceiling surface.
Strike the wallboard with the side of a hammer, then Remove nails, screws , and any remaining wallboard pull it away from the wall with the pry bar or your from the framing members, using a pry bar or drill (or hands. screwgun) . Check the vapor barrier and insulation for damage and replace if necessary.
232
How to Remove Plaster
Remove baseboards and other trim and prepare the Break the plaster along the edges by ho lding a work area (page 230). Score the cutting line several scrap piece of 2 x 4 on edge just inside the scored times with a utility knife, using a straightedge as a lines, and rapping it with a hammer. Use a pry bar to gu ide. The line should be at least W deep. remove the remaining plaster .
Cut through the lath along the edges of the plaster, Variation : If the wall has metal lath laid over the using a reciprocating saw or jig saw. Remove the lath wood lath , use aviation sn ips to clip the edges of the from the studs using a pry bar. Pry away any remain- metal lath. Press the jagged edges of the lath flat ing nails. Check the vapor barrier and insulation for against the stud. The cut edges of metal lath are very damage and replace if necessary. sharp; be sure to wear heavy work gloves .
233Additional Resources Photo Credits Archcraft Products, Inc. Armstrong Ceilings Page 158 Creative Corners 717-397-0611 www.creativecorners.net www.a rmstrong .com 513-617-9460 Brian Greer’s TinMCeilings Page 161 Flex - C Trac 519-570-1447 (flexible track for curved walls) www.tinceilings.com 405-715-1799 www.flexc.com Oal-Tile Corporation Page 196 (top) 214-398-1411 Georgia-Pacific www.daltile.com (Dens-Shield ” Tile Backer, sound-deadening gypsum board) Fireclay Tile, Inc. Page 196 (bottom right) 800-225-6119 408-275-1182 www.gp.com www.fireclaytile.com
James Hardie Building Products Fypon, LTD page 196 (bottom middle) (Hardibacker® Fiber-cement Board) 800-446-9373 888-JHARDIE www.fypon.com www. jameshardie.com Photo courtesy of Hi -Ho Industries, Inc.! Julie Caruso-photographer. National Gypsum 800-NATIONAL USG Corporation pp. 6 (top) , 8 (bottom) , 11 (bottom), 24 www.nationalgypsum.com (top). 88,128.129 (bottom). 800-USG-4YOU Outwater Plastics Industries Inc. www.usg.com (flexible polymer molding , specialty architectural products) 888-0UTWATER Photographers: www.outwate r.com Karen Melvin Owens Corning Minneapolis, MN (insulation, soundproofing products) www.karenmelvin.com 800-GET-PINK © Karen Melvin: pp. 4-5, 6 (bottom), 7 (top, bottom left and www.owenscorning.com bottom fight) , 8 (top), 9 (top and bottom right), 10 (top and bot- USG Corporation tom), 11 (top left and top fight) , p. 90 (top) , p. 150. (cementboard and drywall products, soundproofing insulation) 800-USG-4YOU www.usg.com
234
Conversion Charts Metric Conversions To Convert: To: Multiply by: To Convert: To: Multiply by: Inches Millimeters 25.4 Millimeters Inches 0.039 Inches Centimeters 2.54 Centimeters Inches 0.394 Feet Meters 0 .305 Meters Feet 3.28 Yards Meters 0.914 Meters Yards 1.09 Square inches Square centimeters 6.45 Square centimeters Square inches 0.155 Square feet Square meters 0.093 Square meters Square feet 10.8 Square yards Square meters 0.836 Square meters Square yards 1.2 Ounces Milliliters 30 .0 Milliliters Ounces .033 Pints (U.S.) Liters 0.473 (Imp . 0.568) liters Pints (U.S.) 2.114 (Imp . 1.76) Quarts (US.) Liters 0.946 (Imp. 1.136) liters Quarts (U.S) 1.057 (Imp. 0.88) Gallons (U.S.) Liters 3.785 (Imp. 4.546) liters Gallons (U.S.) 0.264 (Imp. 0.22) Ounces Grams 28.4 Grams Ounces 0.Q35 Pounds Kilograms 0.454 Kilograms Pounds 2.2
Lumber Dimensions Nominal - U.S. Actual - U.S. Metric Nominal - U.S. Actual - U.S. Metric 1x 2 %’ x 1W 19 x 38 mm 1~ x 4 lX”x3W 32 x89 mm 1x 3 Y.” x2 if’ 19x64mm 1~ x 6 lX’ x 5W 32 x 140 mm 1x 4 %’ x 3 W 19 x 89 mm 1~ x 8 1 X” x 7X’ 32x 184mm 1x 5 y.” x 4:6’ 19x114mm l!4xlO lX’x9X’ 32x 235 mm 1x 6 :y.’ x 516’ 19x140mm 1!4 x 12 l X’ x 11X’ 32x 286 mm 1x 7 0/.’ x 6X’ 19x159mm 2x4 1Wx3)6’ 38x 89 mm 1x 8 0/.’ x 7’1.’ 19x184mm 2x6 l W xS )6’ 38x 140mm 1 x 10 y.’ x 911.’ 19 x 235 mm 2x8 1W x 71.’ 38x184mm t x t2 Yo’ x l1W 19x286mm 2 x 10 1W x 91.’ 38x 235 mm 1 Yo x 4 l’ x 3W 25x89mm 2 x 12 lW x 11W 38x 286 mm I Xx 6 l’ x 5W 25x140mm 3x6 2W xSW 64x140mm 1Yo x 8 l’ x 7’/.” 25x 184 mm 4x4 3W x 3)6’ 89x 89 mm 1 y. x 10 l’ x 91.’ 25x 235 mm 4x6 3W x S)6’ 89x 140mm lY.x12 I ’ x 11 Yo’ 25x 286 mm
Counterbore, Shank & Pilot Hole Diameters Screw Size Counterbore Diameter Clearance Hole Pilot Hole Diameter for Screw Head for Screw Shank Hard Wood Soft Wood #1 .146 (9/64) ‘/64 3/64 1/32
#2 '/4 3/32 3/64 1/32
#3 ' /4 '/64 ' /16 3/64
#4 '/4 '/, 1/16 3/64
#5 ' /4 '/, '/64 1/16
#6 5/16 9/64 3/32 5/64
#7 5/16 5/32 3/32 5/64
#8 3/, 11/64 '/, 3/32
#9 3/, 11/64 '/, 3/32
#10 3/8 3/16 '/, 7/64
#11 '/2 3/16 5/32 9/64
#12 '/2 7/32 9/64 'I,
235Index installing acoustical tiles, 158-1 60 installing suspended, 65, 154-157 installing ti n tiles, 16 1-163 installing wallboard on cathedral or installing decorative, 86 preparing for wallboard installation, 62 types of, 54-55
pitched , 77
installing wallboard on flat, 75-77
painting , 172-173, 174
E
paneling , 150-153 Electrical box openings , cutting , 69
plank and beam ideas , 7 Entryway ideas, 6
raised panel , 6, 10
removing coverings from , 230-231
repairing , 226-229 F
sou ndproofing, 44-47
STC ratings, 45 Fasteners for wallboard, 57, 73
texturing , 123- 127 Fastening spacing schedules, 73
water damaged , repairi ng, 228-229 Fiber-ce ment board, described , 56
Cementboard Fibergl ass in sulation , install ing , 42-43
for ceramic tile walls , 188, 189 Filler taping coat, applying , 11 2- 11 3
described , 56 Fin al taping coat, applying , 11 3
installing , 92-93 Finishes
Cementboard screws, 57 applying skim coats, 122A Ceramic tile applying textures, 123 installing , 188-200 knock-down, 126 Abuse-resistant drywall panels, 55 backsplashes , 196-199 orange peel, 125 Access panels, 25 , 27 plans for, 195 popcorn, 123, 125 Acoustical ceiling tiles walls, 188-195 preparing fOf, 123, 124 installing, 158-160 removi ng , 231 stipple. 126 replacing , 227 repairing , 222-223 swirl, 127 Adhesives for attaching wallboard, 57 Chases, framing , 25, 27 troweled , 127 Airflow, reducing , 44-47 Corner beads applying veneer plaster systems, 128-134 Alcove ideas, 7 described, 96 finishing blueboard seams with mesh Archways estimating amou nt needed , 97 tape, 130 ideas for, 7 installing, 100-103 mixing veneer plastic, 130 installing flexible beads for, 102 repairing , 216 one-coat, 129, 13 1-132 installing in wall openings, 24 Corners two-coat, 129, 133 installing wallboard on, 88, 89 applying taping coat to, 109- 111 , 114-11 5 ceramic tile installations, 188-200 Attics applying wallcoverings around , 185- 186 backsplashes, 196-199 framing angled partition walls in, 2 1 building usi ng slip studs, 31 plann ing , 195 ideas, 8 forms for arches, 24 walls, 188-195 paneling ce ilings in , 153 framing , 2 1 estimating amounts needed, 97 installing wallboard at inside, 79 fi nal touches, 11 6- 11 7 installing wallboard at outside, 80 recommended levels of, 104-105 B installing wallboard with floating ceiling tools needed, 98-99 joints and , 77, 79 types of, 96-97 Back blockers, installing , 83 see also corner beads see also painting Balloon framing Cottage style, creating , 6, 7 Fire-resistant drywall panels. 55 described, 15 Cracks, repairing Fixt ure box opening , cutting , 70 joists, 16 in plaster, 2 19 Flexible beads, installi ng , 102 Bamboo paneling , 136 in wallboard, 213 Flexible drywall panels Baseboards Cripple studs, 22 described. 55 described , 200 Crown moldings, 200 installing , 89 installing, 205 Curved walls Floating corners and wallboard Beadboard , 140 corner beads for, 100 installation, 77 , 79 Blocking , installing, 63 framing , 36-37 Floating seams, 63 Blueboard (drywall panels) installing wallboard on, 88-89 Flooring described, 55 as partitions, 11 joists , 16 finish ing seams with mesh tape, 130 STC rating s, 45 installing, 82 Foil-backed d rywall panels, 55 Bowed studs, straightening, 64 D Foundation walls, covering , 32-35 Building codes Fram ing for foundation walls, 32 Deadme n, 74, 76 attaching to steel members, 27 for glass block walls, 38 Decorative drywall panels bas ic house described, 14-17 for insulation, 42 corner beads for, 100 chases, 25, 27 for paneling , 220 installing , 86 curved walls, 36-37 for partition walls, 18 types of, 55 soffits, 25-26 for soffits and chases, 25 Dens-Shield , described , 56 spacing maximums for wallboard Bullnose beads, installing vinyl, 103 Doors installation, 60-6 1 applying wallcoverings around with steel, 28-31 frames , 187 FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastiC) c frames described , 17 framing for interior prehung , 22-23 panels, 136 Furring , 32-34, 63 Casing , described , 200 framing with steel, 29 Cathedral ceilings , installing wallboard installing casing for, 208-209 on , 77 patching over removed , 2 16 G Ceilings soundproofing , 45, 46 adding architectural detail with wall- Drywall panels Gable walls, hanging standard wallboard board , 9 1 corner beads for decorative, 100 on , 8 1 back blockers for, 83 described , 54 Glass block walls, building , 38-41
236
Glass mat, 56 for installing paneling, 136 Paints Grouting, 222 for installing polymer crown moldings, 206 removing lead, 230 Gypsum base. See blueboard (drywall for installing suspended ceilings, 154 selecting and estimating , 166-167 panels) for installing tin ceiling tiles , 161 Paneling Gypsum board. See wallboard for installing wainscot, 140 ceilings, 150-153 for installing wallboard, 54-57 , 61 , 62, installing, 136-139 66, 72, 74 replacing sheet, 220-221 H for installing wallboard on curves, 88 Panels, for access, 25, 27 for installing wallcoverings , 182 Paperless wallboard, 55 Hand sanding , 118 for painting, 166-167 Partition walls Holes, repairing for paneling ceilings, 150 building, 18-24 in plaster, 219 for removing coverings from ceilings & building glass block , 38-41 in wallboard , 214-215 walls, 230 building staggered-stud , 47 Home theaters, soundproofing , 48-49 for repairing ceramic tile , 222 curved , 11 for repairing plaster walls, 217 described, 15, 17 for repairing wallboard , 212 framing steel , 30-31 for repairing wallcoverings , 224 Pitched ceilings, installing wallboard on , n for repairing water damage, 228 Planks, on ceilings, 7 Isolation membranes, 50-51 for replacing sheet paneling , 220 Plaster walls for sanding wallboard , 118 decorative, 11 for taping wallboard seams, 106 removing plaster from , 233 J types of wallboard , 54-55 repairing , 217-219 for wallcovering , 176, 180 Platform framing , 14 Joint compound for waterproofing walls, 50 Pole sanding , 118 described, 97 MOF panels, 136 Popcorn texture preparing , 107 Mesh tape applying, 123, 125 Joint tape, 96, 97 applying , 111 removing, 226 Joists finishing blueboard seams with, 130 Preformed arches, 24 fastening walls to, 18-20 Metal ceiling tiles, installing, 161-163 Prepasted wallcovering , 177-178 floor, 16 Metal corner beads Purpleboard, 55 glass block walls and , 39 installing, 100 repairing , 216 Mitered returns, making, 203 R K Moisture-resistant drywall panels , 55 Moldings Rafters, 16 King studs, 22 creating raised panel ceilings with , 10 Raised panel ceilings, 6, 10 Kitchen backsplashes, installing, 196-199 crown , described, 200 Repairs Knock-down texture, applying , 126 ideas for stock, 6 ceiling , 226-229 installing, 200-205 ceramic tile, 222-223 installing polymer, 206-207 for common taping problems , 116 L Mold-resistant wallboard panels , 55 for miscut holes, 116 Mud Uoint compound), 97 plaster walls, 217-219 Laminate panels, 136 replacing sheet paneling , 220-221 L-beads, installing, 103 for scratches and dents, 116 L-corners, framing , 21 , 31 wallboard , 212-216 Lead paint, removing , 230 N cracks and gashes, 213 Load-bearing walls, 15, 17 Noise reduction holes, 214-215 hanging wallboard in multiple layers metal corner beads, 216 for, 85 wallcoverings, 224-225 M in home theaters, 48-49 to water-damaged walls , 228-229 installing acoustical ceiling tiles, 158-160 Roof framing, 16 Masonry, attaching wood to, 33-34 installing suspended ceilings, 154-157 Rough openings, described, 22 Materi als materials for, 55 Rounded walls, 6 for adding architectural detail with methods of, 44-47 wallboard installation, 90 replacing acoustical tiles in ceilings , 227 for applying skim coats, 122 for applying veneer plaster systems, 128 Non-loading bearing walls building , 18-24 s for attaching wallboard , 57 building glass block, 38-41 Sanding for building glass block walls, 38 building staggered-stud , 47 tools, 98, 99 for building partition walls , 18 curved , 11 wallboard , 118-121 for covering foundation walls, 32, 33 described, 15, 17 Scandinavian style , creating , 10 for fastening wallboard , 72 framing steel , 30-31 Scarf joints, making, 203 for finishing wallboard , 96-97 , 116 Screws for attaching wallboard , 57 for framing curved walls, 36 Seams for framing with steel, 29 for hanging decorative wallboard o repairing wallboard , 116-117 repairing wallcovering , 225 panels, 86 On-center (~ . C . ) spacing , 15 taping wallboard , 106-115 for hanging wallboard , 74 Orange peel texture, applying, 125 Skim coats, 122 for hanging wallboard in multiple Soffits, framing, 25-26 layers, 84 Soundproofing for installing acoustical ceiling tiles , 158 p hanging wallboard in multiple layers for installing back blockers, 83 for, 85 for installing cementboard, 92 Painting in home theaters, 48-49 for installing ceramic tile walls, 188, 189 basic techniques, 166-175 installing acoustical ceiling tiles, 158-160 for installing corner bead, 100 cleaning up, 175 installing suspended ceilings , 154-157 for installing door and window casings, 208 materials for, 166-167 materials for, 55 for installing fiberglass insulation, 42 tools for, 168-172 methods of, 44-47 for installing kitchen backsplashes, 196 removing from walls & ceilings, 230 replacing acoustical tiles in ceilings,
237227Space, using limited, 7 for installing polymer crown moldings, 206 cutting Specialty wallboard installation, 82 for installing suspended ceilings, 154 angled cuts, 67 Sprung moldings, 200 for installing tin ceiling tiles, 161 with compass, 71 Staggered-stud partition walls, building , 47 for installing wainscot, 140 for electrical box openings, 69 Standard drywall panels, 54-55 for installing wallboard , 58-59 , 62 holes in drywall, 70 STC ratings, 44, 45, 48 for installing wallboard on curves, 88 large openings, 68 Steel-frame walls for installing wallcoverings, 182 notches, 68 installing wallboard on , 82 for measuring & cutting wallboard, 66 openings for round fixture boxes, 70 STC ratings , 45 for painting, 168-172, 175 with router, 71 Steel members for paneling ceilings, 150 straight cuts, 66, 67 attaching framing to , 27 for removing coverings from ceilings & fastening , 72-73 framing with , 28-31 walls, 230 hanging cementboard , 92-93 Steel track arches , 24 for repairing ceramic tile, 222 hanging decorative panels, 86-87 Steel tracks, 28, 36 for repairing plaster walls , 217 hanging in multiple layers, 84-85 Storm doors & windows, 45 for repairing wallboard , 212 hanging specialty, 82 StUcco-like walls, 11 for repairing wallcoverings, 224 hanging standard , 74-82 Studs for repairing water damage, 228 abutting finished surfaces , 81 cripple, 22 for replacing sheet paneling, 220 on cathedral or pitched ceilings, 77 installing, 20 for sanding wallboard , 118 on flat ceilings , 75-76 king , 22 for taping wallboard seams, 106 on gable walls, 81 slip , 31 Tracks , steel , 28, 36 at inside corners , 79 for soffits and chases, 25 Trim, installing interior, 200-209 at outside corners, 80 spacing for curved walls, 36 baseboards, 205 on steel-framed walls , 82 steel , 28 cutting trim , 202-203 on wood-framed walls, 78 straightening bowed, 64 door and window casing , 208-209 materials for, 54-57 , 61 , 62, 66, 72 Stud walls, 35 fastening, 204 measuring, 66 making scarf joints and mitered planning layout, 60-61 , 74, 86 returns, 203 preparing for, 62-65 T planning, 201 sanding , 118-121 polymer crown molding, 206-207 tools for, 58-59, 62, 66, 72 Taping coats types, 200 Wallboard lifts, 76 applying , 108-111 Troweled stipple finish , applying , 126 Wallboard screws, 57 fixing common problems, 116-117 Troweled swirl finish , applying , 127 Wallcoverings,176-187 T -corners , framing , 21, 31 Troweled texture finish, applying , 127 choosing, 176-177 Tile backers, 56 Trusses estimating materials needed, 180 Tileboard, 136 described, 16 installing, 177, 178-179, 182-187 Tiles installing floating ceiling joints and, 77 planning , 181 acoustical ceiling T ype-G screws, 57 removing, 231 installing, 158-160 Type-S screws, 57 repairing, 224-225 replacing , 227 Type-W screws, 57 Wall membranes, 50-51 ceramic Walls installing backsplashes, 196-199 back blockers for, 83 installing walls, 188-195 plans for installing, 195 v framing , 17 rounded, 6 removing, 231 Vapor barriers STC ratings, 45 repairing, 222-223 for foundation walls, 32, 35 texturing , 11, 123-127 installing metal ceiling, 161-163 installing insulation and, 42 , 43 types of, 15 Tin ceiling tiles, installing, 161-163 Veneer plaster systems, applying , 128-134 Waterproofing Tongue-&-groove paneling , installing, Vinyl bullnose beads, installing, 103 foundation walls, 32, 35 140-153 Vinyl corner beads, installing, 101 installing insulation and , 42, 43 Tongue-&-groove plank ideas, 7 installing wall membranes, 50-51 Tools Weatherstripping , 45 for adding architectural detail with wallboard installation, 90 w Wet sanding , 121 Window frames , 17 for applying skim coats, 122 Wainscot treatment Windows for applying veneer systems, 128 ideas, 6 applying wallcoverings around frames, 187 for building glass block walls , 38 installing, 140-149 framing basement, 35 for building partition walls, 18 with sheet paneling, 141-145 installing casing for, 208-209 cleaning , 99 wainscot frames, 146-149 patching over removed, 216 for covering foundation walls, 32 Wallboard soundproofing , 45 for fastening wallboard , 72 grain, 60 Wood, attaching to masonry, 33-34 for finishing wallboard , 98-99, 116 raising sagging ceilings, 227 Wood-frame walls for framing curved walls, 36 removing , 232 installing standard wallboard on, 78 for framing with steel, 29 repairs, 212-216 STC ratings, 45 for hanging decorative wallboard cracks and gashes, 213 panels, 86 holes, 214-215 for hanging wallboard , 74 metal corner beads , 216 for hanging wallboard in multiple taping seams layers, 84 applying filler coat, 112-113 for installing acoustical ceiling tiles, 158 applying final coat, 113 for installing back blockers, 83 applying tape coat, 108-111 for installing cementboard , 92 flat tape, 114 for installing ceramic tile walls, 188 preparing joint compound , 107 for installing corner bead , 100 rounding inside corners, 114-115 for installing door and window casings, 208 Wallboard arches, preformed , 24 for installing fiberglass insulation, 42 Wallboard installation for installing kitchen backsplashes, 196 adding architectural detail, 84-85, 90-91 for installing paneling , 136 on curves, 88-89
238
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