Flooring
Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Floor Decor - Beautiful, Long-lasting Floors You Can
Source: Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Floor Decor - Beautiful, Long-lasting Floors You Can.pdf
Source file: Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Floor Decor - Beautiful, Long-lasting Floors You Can.pdf
THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO
FLOOR DรCOR
Beautiful, Long-lasting Floors
You Can Design & Install
CHANHASSEN, MINNESOTA
www.creativepub.com
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Copyright ยฉ 2007 Home Improvement Group
Creative Publishing international, Inc. Publisher: Bryan Trandem
18705 Lake Drive East Managing Editor: Tracy Stanley
Chanhassen, Minnesota 55317 Senior Editor: Mark Johanson
1-800-328-3895 Editor: Jennifer Gehlhar
www.creativepub.com
All rights reserved Creative Director: Michele Lanci-Altomare
Senior Design Manager: Brad Springer
Printed at R. R. Donnelley Design Managers: Jon Simpson, Mary Rohl
Director of Photography: Tim Himsel
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Lead Photographer: Steve Galvin
Photo Coordinators: Adrianne Truthe and Joanne Wawra
The Complete guide to floor decor : beautiful, long-lasting floors Shop Manager: Randy Austin
you can design & install / Edited by Clayton Bennett. Branded by
Black & Decker. Production Managers: Linda Halls, Laura Hokkanen
p. cm.
Summary: โIncludes comprehensive information on installing, re- Page Layout Artist: Danielle Smith
pairing and maintaining all of the most common and popular floor Photographers: Andrea Rugg, Joel Schnell
typesโ--Provided by publisher. Shop Help: Glenn Austin, John Webb
ISBN-13: 978-1-58923-332-4 (soft cover)
ISBN-10: 1-58923-332-8 (soft cover)
1. Flooring--Handbooks, manuals, etc. 2. Floors--Maintenance and
repair--Handbooks, manuals, etc. I. Bennett, Clayton. II. Title.
TH2525.F48 2007
690โ.16--dc22 2007018211
The Complete Guide to Floor Dรฉcor
Created by: The Editors of Creative Publishing international, Inc., in cooperation with Black & Decker.
Black & Deckerยฎ is a trademark of The Black & Decker Corporation and is used under license.
NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. Neither the
publisher nor Black & Deckerยฎ can assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of
misuse of the information provided.
Consult your local Building Department for information on building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to your
project.
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Contents
The Complete Guide to Floor Dรฉcor
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Installations . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Painting Wood Floors . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
Getting Started. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Creating Faux Stone Tile Designs . . . 216
Planning Your New Floor. . . . 7 Cutting Door Casing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Painting Decorative Borders . . . . . . . 220
Planning Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Threshold & Moldings . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Creating Nature Prints . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
Floor Anatomy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Hardwood. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Sealing Concrete Floors. . . . . . . . . . . 224
Evaluating an Existing Floor. . . . . . . . . 11 Laminate. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Painting Concrete Floors . . . . . . . . . . 229
Choosing a Floor Covering. . . . . . . . . . 14 Parquet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Design. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Resilient Sheet Vinyl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
Inspiration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Rubber Roll . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Eliminating Floor Squeaks . . . . . . . . . 234
Resilient Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Eliminating Stair Squeaks. . . . . . . . . . 236
Project Preparation . . . . . . . 41 Combination Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Replacing a Broken Stair Tread . . . . . 238
Preparation Tools & Materials . . . . . . . 42 Bamboo Planks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Replacing Trim Moldings . . . . . . . . . . 240
Measuring the Room . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Cork Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Repairing Hardwood . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242
Removing Floor Coverings . . . . . . . . . . 44 Recycled Rubber Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Repairing Vinyl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254
Removing Underlayment . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Ceramic & Stone Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Repairing Carpet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
Repairing Subfloors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Mosaic Glass Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Repairing Ceramic Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
Repairing Joists . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Installing Borders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Repairing Concrete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263
Carpet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
Preparing the Base . . . . . . . 57 Carpet Squares . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
Installing Underlayment . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Resources and Credits . . . 268
Preparing Basement Floors . . . . . . . . . 66 Finishes & Conversion Charts . . . . . . . 269
Building Attic Floors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Surface Treatments . . . . . . 199
Installing a Floor-warming System. . . . 74 Refinishing Supplies & Techniques . . 200
Installing an In-floor Electrical Outlet . . 78 Stains & Finishes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205
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Introduction
I n every room of your house the floor provides a
starting point for decorating and furnishing. Itโs the
foundation of how the room functions and the basis
for other design choices. You can give any room a new
look by changing its contents or wall treatmentsโbut
to transform a room entirely, begin at the bottom.
A floor is more than just a place to put your
furniture: it establishes the entire feel of a room,
giving it color, texture, and mood. By changing an old
floor covering to a new one, especially if you use a
different material, you can give a room an entirely new
sense of character.
Floor coverings range from traditional favorites,
such as hardwoods and ceramic tile, to modern
materials like compound laminates and recycled
rubber. Other possibilities include renewable materials
such as bamboo and cork, eye-catching specialties like
glass mosaic tile, and even resilient synthetic sheet
material made to look like leather. With todayโs design
in flooring, you have more options than ever.
In the past, some flooring materials were
expensive to buy and difficult to install. Thanks to the
popularity of do-it-yourself projects, manufacturers
have developed products and techniques that are
accessible to homeowners of all skill levels. The
products featured in this book are readily available.
Remember to plan ahead, take your time, and get help
if you need it.
โ 5
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Planning Your
New Floor
L ike any successful remodeling project, replacing
your floor covering requires detailed planning and
attention to design. Flooring is not separate from
the rest of the room; it should fit into the overall
design to create a desired effect. A floor can create
excitement and become a focal point or it can serve as
a background for the rest of the room.
Through careful planning, you can choose flooring
that can be used successfully in multiple rooms, or
select a pattern or design that is repeated throughout
the room or in adjacent rooms.
Keep in mind that your flooring design will last
a long time, especially if you install ceramic tile or
wood. In most cases, the only way to change the
design of your floor is to install a new floor covering.
The information in this section will help you
plan and design floors that meet your needs. After
looking through the portfolio section for ideas of
various floor coverings, you may also want to visit a
flooring showroom to find the color, style, and pattern
of the material you want to use. Then, following the
directions in the main section of this book, you can
create a new look and feel for your living space.
In this Chapter:
โข Planning Overview
โข Floor Anatomy
โข Evaluating an Existing Floor
โข Choosing a Floor Covering
โข Design
โข Inspiration
โ 7
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Planning Overview
B ecause floors are highly visible, appearance is one
of the most important considerations when you
choose flooring. Start your search by browsing through
how different floor coverings will perform under
these situations. Some flooring cannot be installed
in damp areas, while others can fade or scuff
magazines and visiting flooring retail stores. under heavy traffic. Read pages 10 through 15 for
Visual appearance is only one factor, of course. help in choosing a floor covering that best fits your
You will have several reasons to choose one flooring needs.
material over another; appearance is the most obvious. When estimating materials for your project, add
Other characteristics to keep in mind include cost, 10% to 15% to your total square footage to allow
ease of installation, durability, and how the flooring for waste caused by trimming. For some carpet
feels underfoot. installations, you will need to add even more. Save
In a room that is subject to moisture, heavy extra flooring material in case future repairs are
traffic, or other demanding conditions, consider needed.
Establish a logical work sequence.
Many flooring projects are done as part
of a more comprehensive remodeling
project. In this case, the flooring should
be installed after the walls and ceiling
are finished, but before the fixtures are
installed. Protect new flooring with heavy
paper or tarps when completing your
remodeling project.
Measure the area of the project room
to calculate the quantity of materials youโll
need. Measure the full width and length
of the space to determine the overall
square footage, then subtract the areas
that will not be covered, such as stairways,
cabinets, and other permanent fixtures.
8 โ THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO FLOOR DรCOR
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Checklist for Planning a Flooring Project ์บ
Read the following sections and use this checklist to allow for waste caused by trimming. For some carpet
organize your activities as you start your flooring project. installations you will need to add even more. Tip: For
help in estimating, go to a building supply center
โ Measure the project area carefully. Be sure to and read the labels on materials and adhesives to
include all nooks and closets, as well as areas under determine coverage.
all movable appliances. Calculate the total square โ Make a list of the tools needed for the job. Locate
footage of the project area. sources for the tools you will need to buy or rent.
โ Use your measurements to create a floor plan on โ Estimate the total cost of the project, including
graph paper. all preparation materials, flooring and installation
โ Sketch pattern options on tracing paper laid over the materials, and tools. For expensive materials, shop
floor plan to help you visualize what the flooring will around to get the best prices.
look like after you install it. โ Check with building supply centers or flooring retail
โ Identify areas where the type of floor covering will stores for delivery costs. A delivery service is often
change, and choose the best threshold material to worth the additional charge.
use for the transition. โ Determine how much demolition you will need to
โ Estimate the amount of preparation material needed, do, and plan for debris removal through your regular
including underlayment sheets and floor leveler. garbage collector or a disposal company.
โ Estimate the amount of installation material needed, โ Plan for the temporary displacement of furnishings
including the floor covering and other supplies, such and removable appliances to minimize disruption of
as adhesive, grout, thresholds, tackless strips, and your daily routine.
screws. Add 5 to 10% to your total square footage to
NOTES
Planning Overview โ 9
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Floor Anatomy
A typical wood-frame floor consists of layers that
work together to provide the required structural
support and desired appearance:
3. On top of the subfloor, most builders place a 1โ2"
plywood underlayment. Some flooring materials,
especially ceramic tile, require cementboard
for stability.
1. At the bottom of the floor are the joists, the 2 ร 10 4. For many types of floor coverings, adhesive or
or larger framing members that support the weight mortar is spread on the underlayment before
of the floor. Joists are typically spaced 16" apart on the floor covering is installed. Carpet rolls
center. generally require tackless strips and cushioned
2. The subfloor is nailed to the joists. Most subfloors padding.
installed in the 1970s or later are made of 3โ4" 5. Other materials, such as snap-fit laminate
tongue-and-groove plywood; in older houses, the planks or carpet squares, can be installed
subfloor often consists of 1"-thick wood planks directly on the underlayment with little or
nailed diagonally across the floor joists. no adhesive.
Floor covering
Adhesive
Underlayment
Subfloor
Joist
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Evaluating an Existing Floor
T he first step in preparing for a new floor covering is
evaluating your old floor. A careful examination can
help you decide whether to repair damaged areas, or
(see page 53) is one way to make your existing floor
easier to use. More complex preparations may involve
removing and replacing the underlayment (see pages
replace the flooring altogether. 50 to 51) or making spot repairs to the subfloor (see
Evaluating your floor is a three-step process. pages 52 to 53).
Begin by identifying the existing floor material and the
installation method used. Is your sheet vinyl attached
using the full-spread method or the perimeter-bond
method? Is your carpet glued down or stretched? Warning ์บ
Next, check the condition of the floor. Is it securely
attached or is it loose in spots? Is it chipped or Resilient flooring manufactured before 1986 may
cracked? Finally, note the height of the existing floor contain asbestos, which can cause severe lung
in relation to adjoining floor surfaces. Is it significantly problems if inhaled. The recommended method for
higher than surrounding floors? dealing with asbestos-laden flooring is to cover it with
A new floor covering or underlayment can often an underlayment. If the flooring must be removed, do
be installed on top of existing flooring. If the existing not do the work yourself. Instead, consult a certified
flooring is not sound or smooth, however, you will have asbestos-abatement contractor.
to do some preparation work. Applying a floor leveler
Determining the number and type of coverings already on your floor is an important early evaluation step. Too many layers of
flooring and underlayment can stress floor joists and ultimately cause a new floor to fail. An easy way to check for old flooring is to
remove floor vents.
Evaluating an Existing Floor โ 11
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A Quick Guide for Evaluating Your Existing Floor ์บ
RESILIENT (VINYL) FLOORING HARDWOOD FLOORING
Option 1: Your existing resilient floor can serve as the Option 1: If youโre installing carpet, you can usually lay
foundation for most new floor coverings, including resilient it directly over an existing hardwood floor, provided itโs
flooring, hardwood, and carpet, but only if the existing a nailed or glued-down surface. Inspect the flooring and
surface is relatively smooth and sound. Inspect the secure any loose areas to the subfloor with spiral-shanked
existing flooring for loose seams, tears, chips, air bubbles, flooring nails, then remove any rotted wood and fill the
and other areas where the bond has failed. If these loose voids with floor-leveling compound before installing
spots constitute less than 30% of the total area, you can the carpet.
remove the flooring at these spots and fill the voids with
floor-leveling compound. Then, apply embossing leveler Option 2: If youโre installing resilient flooring or
to the entire floor and let it dry before laying new ceramic tile over nailed hardwood planks or glued-
resilient flooring. down wood flooring, you can attach new underlayment
over the existing hardwood before installing the
Option 2: If the original resilient flooring is suspect, you new flooring.
can install new underlayment over the old surface after
repairing obviously loose areas. Option 3: If the existing floor is a โfloatingโ wood
or laminate surface with a foam-pad underlayment,
Option 3: If youโre installing ceramic tile, or if the existing remove it completely before laying any type of
surface is in very poor condition, the old resilient flooring new flooring.
should be removed entirely before you install new flooring.
If the old flooring was glued down with full-bond adhesive,
itโs usually easiest to remove both the flooring and UNDERLAYMENT & SUBFLOOR
underlayment at the same time. If the old underlayment is Underlayment must be smooth, solid, and level to
removed, you must install new underlayment before laying ensure a long-lasting flooring installation. If the existing
the new flooring. underlayment does not meet these standards,
remove it and install new underlayment before you
lay new flooring.
CERAMIC TILE Before installing new underlayment, inspect the
Option 1: If the existing ceramic tile surface is relatively subfloor for chips, open knots, dips, and loose boards.
solid, new flooring usually can be laid directly over the Screw down loose areas, and fill cracks and dips with
tile. Inspect tiles and joints for cracks and loose pieces. floor-leveling compound. Remove and replace any
Remove loose material and fill these areas with a floor- water-damaged areas.
leveling compound. If youโre installing resilient flooring,
apply an embossing leveler product over the ceramic
tile before laying the new flooring. If youโre laying new CARPET
ceramic tile over the old surface, use an epoxy-based thin- Without exception, carpet must be removed before you
set mortar for better adhesion. install any new flooring. For traditional carpet, simply
cut the carpet into pieces, then remove the padding and
Option 2: If more than 10% of the tiles are loose, remove the tackless strips. Remove glued-down cushion-back
all of the old flooring before installing the new surface. If carpet with a floor scraper, using the same techniques
the tiles donโt easily separate from the underlayment, itโs as for removing full-bond resilient sheet flooring (see
best to remove the tile and the underlayment at the same page 49).
time, then install new underlayment.
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โ Tips for Evaluating Floors
When installing new flooring High thresholds often indicate that Buckling in solid hardwood floors
over old, measure vertical spaces to several layers of flooring have already indicates that the boards have loosened
make sure enclosed or under-counter been installed on top of one another. from the subfloor. Do not remove
appliances will fit once the new If you have several layers, itโs best to hardwood floors. Instead, refasten
underlayment and flooring are installed. remove them before installing the new loose boards by drilling pilot holes
Use samples of the new underlayment floor covering. and inserting flooring nails or screws.
and floor covering as spacers when New carpet can be installed right over
measuring. a well-fastened hardwood floor. New
ceramic tile or resilient flooring should
be installed over underlayment placed
on the hardwood flooring.
Loose tiles may indicate widespread Air bubbles trapped under resilient Cracks in grout joints around ceramic
failure of the adhesive. Use a wallboard sheet flooring indicate that the adhesive tile are a sign that movement of the
knife to test tiles. If tiles can be pried has failed. The old flooring must be floor covering has caused, or has been
up easily in many different areas of the removed before the new covering can caused by, deterioration of the adhesive
room, plan to remove all of the flooring. be installed. layer. If more than 10% of the tiles are
loose, remove the old flooring. Evaluate
the condition of the underlayment (see
opposite page) to determine if it also
must be removed.
Evaluating an Existing Floor โ 13
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Choosing a Floor Covering
WOOD FLOORS products will have thicker cores, and will feel more like
Wood floors are hard-wearing and durable, yet still hardwood under your feet. Some feature waterproof
look warm and elegant. They hold up well in high- joints to reduce the chances of swelling at the core;
traffic areas and are popular in dining rooms, living this becomes important in kitchens and bathrooms.
rooms, and entryways. Since its introduction in the early 1980s, laminate
Traditional solid wood planks are the most common flooring has been a popular choice for homeowners
type of wood flooring, but there is a growing selection who want the appearance of hardwoods, a choice of
of plywood backed and synthetic-laminate products finishes, and a material they can install by themselves
(also called laminated wood) that are well suited for at a reasonable cost.
do-it-yourself installation. Oak and maple are the most
common wood species available, and size options VINYL FLOORING
include narrow strips, wide planks, and parquet squares. Vinyl flooring, also known as resilient flooring, is a
Most wood flooring has tongue-and-groove construction, versatile, flexible surface. It is most often found in
which helps to provide a strong, flat surface. kitchens and bathrooms, although it can be used
In general, hardwood flooring is slightly less almost anywhere. Vinyl flooring is available in both
expensive than ceramic tile, and laminated products sheets and tiles, in thicknesses ranging from 1โ16" to 1โ8".
are typically less expensive than solid hardwood. Most Sheets are sold in 6-ft.-wide or 12-ft.-wide rolls, with
types of wood flooring can be installed directly over a either a felt or a polyvinyl chloride (PVC) backing,
subfloor, and sometimes over vinyl flooring. Installation depending on the type of installation. Tiles typically
of laminated wood flooring is simple. It can be glued or come in 12" squares and are available with or without
nailed down, or โfloatedโ on a foam cushion. Parquet self-adhesive backing.
squares are typically glued down. Solid hardwood Installation is easy. Sheet vinyl with felt backing is
planks must be nailed to the underlayment. glued to the floor using the full-spread method, meaning
the entire project area is covered with adhesive.
LAMINATE FLOORING PVC-backed sheet vinyl is glued only along the edges
Flooring made from laminated products offers some (perimeter-bond method). Tiles are the easiest to install,
of the properties of hardwood, such as smooth but because tile floors have a lot of seams, they are less
surfaces with warm colors, but with a very different suitable for high-moisture areas. All vinyl flooring must
kind of installation. Instead of being nailed to the be installed over a smooth underlayment.
underlayment and subfloor, most laminate flooring is Sheet vinyl is priced by the square yard, while tile
fastened edge to edge. It does not require nailing or is priced by the square foot. Cost for either style is
gluing to the surface below. comparable to carpet, and less expensive than ceramic
Many laminate products are durable enough to tile or hardwood. Prices vary based on the percentage
carry warranties of 10 years or more, but hardwood of vinyl in the material, the thickness of the product,
remains stronger than most laminates. Better laminate and the complexity of the pattern.
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CERAMIC TILE Made of synthetic or natural fibers bonded
Ceramic tile is a hard, durable, versatile material that to a mesh backing, carpet is usually sold in
is available in a wide variety of sizes, patterns, shapes, 12-ft.-wide rolls. Some types have a cushioned
and colors. This all-purpose flooring is an excellent backing, ready for glue-down installation without
choice for areas with high traffic, high moisture, or pads or strips.
both. Ceramic tile is commonly used in bathrooms, The two basic types of carpeting are loop-pile,
entryways, and kitchens. which is made with uncut loops of yarn to create
Common ceramic tiles include unglazed quarry texture, and cut-pile, which has trimmed fibers
tile, glazed ceramic tile, and porcelain mosaic for a more uniform appearance. Some carpets
tile. Glass mosaic tiles are available as a colorful contain both types. Carpet is similar in price to
alternative to ceramic tiles. In addition, natural stone vinyl flooring, but costs vary depending on density
tiles are sold in several materials, such as marble, and fiber. Wool is typically more expensive than
slate, and granite. Most floor tiles range from 3โ16" to synthetics.
3
โ4" thick. Installing carpet is not difficult, but it does
In general, ceramic tile is more costly than involve some special tools and techniques. Tackless
other types of floor coverings, with natural stone tile strips and padding are installed first; then the
ranking as the most expensive. Tile is also more time- carpeting is cut and seamed; finally, it is stretched
consuming to install than other materials. However, and secured to tackless strips.
tile offers the greatest flexibility in design.
Preparation is critical to the success of a CARPET SQUARES
tile installation. In high moisture areas, such as In the past few years, a new kind of carpet has become
bathrooms, tile should be laid over a cementboard very popular: modular squares. These products have
underlayment that is fastened to the subfloor. Floors most of the qualities people like about roll carpetingโ
that support tile must be stiff and flat to prevent a soft surface and a wide range of colors and patterns.
cracking in the tile surface or grout. Tile is installed It also offers three things traditional roll carpeting
following a grid-pattern layout and adhered to the floor does not: easy installation, simple replacement, and
with thinset mortar. Gaps between individual tiles are eco-friendliness. The best-known carpet squares are
filled with grout, which should be sealed periodically made of recycled material.
to prevent staining. Carpet squares need the same kind of
underlayment as roll carpeting; it has to be clean
CARPET ROLLS and smooth. Unlike carpet rolls, however, the
Carpet is a soft, flexible floor covering that is chosen squares do not require stretching or large amounts
primarily for comfort rather than durability. It is a of adhesive. They are held in place with small
popular choice for bedrooms, family rooms, and adhesive patches. Both the squares and the adhesive
hallways. patches can be removed and replaced at any time.
Choosing a Floor Covering โ 15
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Design
N o matter what type of floor you install, choose
your colors, patterns, and textures carefully. You
may have to live with your choices for yearsโor even
Because floors flow from one room to the next, floor
coverings offer a convenient medium for creating
continuity throughout your home. This does not mean
decades. Flooring is one of the most visible elements you should use the same floor covering in every room.
of interior design, which makes it one of the most Simply repeating a color, pattern, or texture can be
important. enough to provide continuity.
Flooring can serve as a bold, eye-catching design The examples on these pages help illustrate how
statement, or it can be an understated background. your choice of color, pattern, and texture can affect
Whatever approach you take, always consider the the look and feel of a room.
design of the adjoining rooms when choosing flooring.
16 โ THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO FLOOR DรCOR
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Design continuity can be provided by using the same Color of flooring influences the visual impact of a room.
flooring in adjacent rooms. Borders can help define areas, as Bold, bright colors draw attention, while muted colors create a
seen here in the dining area. neutral background that doesnโt compete for attention. Colors
also affect the perceived size of a room. Dark colors are formal
in tone, but can make a room look smaller. Light colors are
more contemporary, and can make the room seem larger.
Pattern of flooring affects the feeling and tone of a room. Texture of flooring contributes to the style of a room. More
In general, subtle patterns lend a more relaxed feel to a room rugged surfaces, such as slate or Berber carpet, give a room
and can make it appear larger. Bold, recurring patterns create a warm, earthy tone. Smooth and glossy surfaces, such as
excitement and focal points for a room. A flooring pattern polished marble tile or hardwood flooring, impart an airy sense
must be chosen carefully to ensure it doesnโt clash with other of elegance.
patterns in the room.
Design โ 17
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Inspiration
T he perfect floor is an integral component of any
interior design. A well-chosen floor covering will
interact with other design elements in the room.
The flooring should also be practical and fit the needs
of each room. For example, in a kitchen where spills
are common, sheet vinyl or ceramic tile is a more
practical choice than expensive, deep-pile wool carpet.
In a formal dining room, wood parquet is more fitting
than resilient tile.
The photos in this section highlight a wide range
of flooring types and materials for any room in the Natural hardwoods create an environment of warmth and
home. The following pages are sure to give you new comfort. From the floor to window sashes and fireplace trim,
ideas for ways to meet your flooring needs. wood materials combine practicality and luxury.
The medallion in this foyer is sure to catch the eyes of all those who enter this home because of its color and pattern. By
incorporating a medallion that is the same material as the surrounding floor and steps, it stands as a subtle and sophisticated detail.
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A floor can be the leading design
feature in a room from which all other
elements in the room follow. In this room
the tile floor is the focal point. Smaller tiles
around the fireplace echo the pattern set
down on the floor surface below.
Refinement and elegance characterize this lightly appointed Sometimes, the beauty of simplicity provides the most
bathroom, and the ceramic tile underneath it all establishes satisfying results. The ceramic tiles that provide a design base for
the tone. By continuing a theme of warm color, plentiful light, this entryway will last for years, even decades. Thanks to their
and smooth textures from the floor on up, the homeowner has neutral color and pattern, they can complement many styles as
transformed this bathroom into an exclusive spa retreat. the homeowners decide to change other elements in the room.
Inspiration โ 19
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Hardwood strips and planks are the
most common wood floor coverings.
Hardwood doesnโt compete with ornate
elements in a room, yet it makes a
definitive statement. This floor uses two
different woods to create an appealing
border around the kitchen island.
This resilient floor combines several subdued colors for a contemporary look. Because the tones are slightly darker than the
walls and furniture, the floor grounds the room and serves as a base focal point.
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Square and rectangular ceramic tiles can be combined for a sleek, sophisticated look. Laid on a diagonal, the tiles widen a
long, narrow room.
Wall-to-wall carpet is very versatile
and easily adopts the style and feel of
the other room elements. The carpet
in this family room takes on a sleek yet
comfortable look. By keeping the color
slightly lighter than the furniture it acts as
a subtle background for the homeowners
collections. The monochromatic theme
from walls to furniture to carpet enhances
the spaciousness of the otherwise small
room.
Inspiration โ 21
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Gentle variations in colorโsuch as wood products or laminates with wood-grain printsโsoften the design of a room and
create an overall warm tone. Whether you call it blonde or honey or natural, this floor deserves one description: beautiful.
Exclamations of color separated by bold black borders Iridescent glass tiles, made from recycled material, appear
make a dramatic resilient kitchen floor. The visual dividing lines at first glance to have two shades of blue. A closer look reveals
do not correspond exactly with the room transitions, helping that they reflect countless hues, depending how the light
bring the spaces together. Look beyond the edges of a room to strikes them. This works best in small rooms, where the scale
see more design opportunities. of the tiles matches the space.
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More than two colors, alternating in an
irregular pattern, give this room a casual
feel. The classic checkerboard design is
muted to create a light and airy space. This
attractive, simple design can be made with
any material that is sold in squares.
A single color washed over the walls, sinks, and floor generates a cool, smooth surface. The sea blue in this room evokes the
calm serenity of water. A soft brown rug provides a sandy beach for the eyes and feet.
Inspiration โ 23
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Textured concrete floors can be both durable and beautiful. To create a textured surface, you can use stamping forms while
the concrete is still wet. To add color as well, apply powdered dyes. This creates the look of stone, ceramic, or even marble. These
treatments use a humble material to create a showpiece.
Carpet with just a little detail
demands attention. Even though the
surface is soft and relatively smooth,
that small amount of texture enhances
the visual interest of the carpet. In this
room it also provides a gentle contrast
to the plush bedding and sheer window
coverings.
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Hexagonal tiles have been available for
centuries, and still provide an eye-catching
effect. These tiles also have broad
variations in color, giving them added
visual appeal. Installation and maintenance
are the same as for square ceramic tiles.
Remember, not every tile floor needs to be
made of squares or rectangles.
A smooth tile floor like this has variations in color and rough-cut edges that give it character. The mottled rust and verdigris are
reminiscent of aging bronze sculptures, while the grout lines look like the work of ancient master masons. In real life, however, you
could install this floor yourselfโtoday.
Inspiration โ 25
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A checkerboard inside a checkerboard creates contrast in color, size, and shape. The effect draws your eye across the surface,
while subdued brown tones provide an understated foundation for the surprise of bold red walls.
A monotone scheme is perfect for this small space. Bricklaying patterns borrowed from masonry can work
Consistent color on the walls and floor makes the room feel for other materials, too. A running-bond pattern has parallel
larger, but the random visual pattern keeps it from feeling dull. courses overlapping at the halfway point of each rectangle,
The tumbled stones create a natural texture underfoot. By taking while a herringbone pattern places them in rows of nestled
a little extra care and expense, the homeowner has created a V-shapes. From top row to bottom row: basket weave, herring
room that makes part of every day life feel like a vacation. bone, running-bond, stretcher-bond.
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The stripes in this carpet run the same direction, but they vary in width and color, making the design less predictable. By using
a carpet with several colors that work well together, the homeowner can change the room furnishings without having to switch the
floor covering as well. A bold carpet design like this is best complemented by solid colors on the walls and furniture.
Regular and random at the same time, this floor makes a compromise by marrying solid and mottled blocks. Every row has
the same width, but individual tiles within each row are not as structured. The result is a design that both follows a rhythm and
breaks it.
Inspiration โ 27
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A smooth blue floor is just about the
coolest foundation possible for a bedroom.
While leaving the rest of the white room
airy and light, the checkerboard and solid
blue field create a sense of quiet calm.
The warm (tans) and cool (whites) color combinations of this bathroom balance cleanliness and comfort. Despite using only
right angles on the fixtures and walls, this sparsely appointed room maintains an elegant, informal appearance.
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Limestone and glass establish a calm yet sophisticated atmosphere in this bathroom. Subtle variations in tile color provide visual
interest; colored grout keeps the color family together.
A deep, rich stain on this hardwood floor
gives the room a solid color foundation for
the warm autumn colors on the walls and
ceiling. Incandescent lights enhance the
warm glow in the room.
Inspiration โ 29
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Hard angles and surfaces in this
room reflect sound sharply, but the soft
greens make a peaceful setting. While
conventional wisdom holds that small tiles
only work in small spaces, this stunning
bathroom proves an exception.
Mixed materials can bring the best
of both sound-reflecting and sound-
absorbing qualities. In this example,
a highly reflective hardwood surface
becomes hushed by a small area rug. The
hardwoodโs beauty remains visible, and
the area rug complements the dรฉcor.
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Soft carpet has sound-absorbing properties, which are perfectly suited to this den of solitude. Unwanted noise disappears quickly,
and only the sounds you choose remain. Even the furnishings have soft edges, and the colors are muted.
Concrete floors are now being welcomed into rooms beyond just their traditional use in basements and garages. A variety of
surface treatments can transform this utilitarian material into a fashionable floor. One characteristic of concrete wonโt change,
though: Itโs still hard, and it reflects sound. Offset these drawbacks with soft furniture and window coverings.
Inspiration โ 31
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A luxurious carpet becomes a practical indulgence when the only shoes in the room are your bedroom slippers. Of course, you
will want it to be durable, even if you treat it gently. Wool fibers are among the most long-wearing versions available, and Berber
loops are especially comfortable on bare feet.
Ceramic tile holds up well under heavy use. But it can be tiring to stand on for long periods, and may feel cold underfoot. New
layered products, combining ceramic and resilient materials, give you the look and feel of ceramic tile, with the warmth and easy
installation of vinyl tile.
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Quarry tile has been a favorite of commercial kitchens Ceramic tile is the preferred flooring material for bathrooms.
for decades. It stands up to heavy use day and night, and It is easy to clean and dry, and it withstands frequent exposure
is relatively easy to clean. It also has a naturally warm to water. Manufacturers often create matched families of tile
appearance that gives any kitchen a soft glow. Other popular designs for floors, walls, and countertops.
places for quarry tile are bathrooms and spas.
A temporary covering can help preserve the permanent surface underneath when an area of flooring gets rough treatment from
the elements, foot traffic, or both. This whimsical rug adds a dash of bright color and playful humor to a dining room while reducing
wear on the floor below.
Inspiration โ 33
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Linoleum floors with custom designs, like this one, are especially sensitive to uneven surfaces or debris underneath. Even
after itโs in place, linoleum is not trouble-free. It can be cleaned with a variety of floor care products, but never with anything
containing ammonia.
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Leather may be the most fragile of all flooring materials. Itโs Hardwood floors can last for decades with regular care. If a
luxurious to a fault, but vulnerable to abrasion, tears, cuts, hardwood floor is used heavily, it may need repairing. Luckily,
and damage from any sharp or rough object. The tile floor most hardwoods can be sanded down and refinished at least
shown here has a faux leather appearance, but maintains the two or three times before they must be replaced.
durability of ceramic tile.
This luxury vinyl tile offers the rugged beauty of cut stone, but with easy care. Its solid vinyl construction is more durable than
traditional composition tile, and its top wear layer resists abrasion. Its greatest advantage over stone and ceramic tile is that vinyl
never needs mortar or grout.
Inspiration โ 35
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Bamboo floors have become very popular in the past few years. Itโs a grass, not a wood, so it grows quickly. And the process of
turning bamboo into flooring is ecologically friendly. Most important, it has the best qualities of hardwood with greater durability,
value, and ease of installation.
Cork flooring can be durable enough for
use in high-traffic areas such as kitchens.
Its slightly soft feel underfoot makes it an
ideal surface for long periods of standing.
And, if you drop a glass on it, both the
glass and the floor may remain intact.
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Palm is another fast-growing plant.
Like bamboo, it lacks the strength to be
used like a traditional hardwood. However,
it can be processed the same way as
bamboo to produce an equally hard-
wearing floor covering. This plank flooring
has all the warmth of hardwood, but the
material is renewable.
Linoleum, a product of linseed oil, is one of the oldest renewable flooring materials to be mass-produced. It has enjoyed a revival
of popularity in recent years, thanks to its eco-friendly properties and design flexibility. Linoleum is often difficult to handle, but the
finished results are visually striking.
Inspiration โ 37
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Carpet squares made from recycled
waste soften hard surfaces, add
contrasting color to plain rooms, and offer
countless design possibilities, all without
consuming new raw materials. Depending
on your design, you can place them from
one edge of a room to the other, or set
them in the middle as a rug,
Scrap rubber never biodegrades, which makes it a persistent
headache for municipal waste departments. But that same
quality makes reclaimed rubber an excellent flooring material
for high-traffic areas. These tiles are made from rubber products
that would otherwise be landfill. They go much better in a garage,
basement, or breezeway.
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Hardwoods make some of the best flooring materialsโsometimes more than once. This rich, dark maple was reclaimed during
the demolition of an old property. It may not be a common item in large home improvement stores, but you can find reclaimed
hardwoods through some flooring stores and specialty lumberyards.
Recycled materials give old materialsโand your homeโnew life. Here, from left to right, tile made of recycled glass, aluminum,
and brass are shown.
Inspiration โ 39
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Project
Preparation
B efore your new floor goes in, your old floor will
probably need to be taken out and the subfloor
will need to be carefully prepared for a finished
surface. Project preparation is just as important as
installing your floor covering and requires the same
attention to detail.
Removing old floors, installing new subfloors or
underlayments, and filling in cracks and joints isnโt
the most glamorous job in the world, but itโs an
investment that will reap big rewards when your
flooring project is complete.
If your new floor is part of a larger home
improvement project, removing the existing floor
is one of the first steps in the overall project, while
installing the new floor is one of the last steps in
the process. All other demolition and construction
should be finished in the room before the floor is
installed to avoid damaging the surface.
In this Chapter:
โข Tools & Materials
โข Measuring the Room
โข Removing Floor Coverings
โข Removing Underlayment
โข Repairing Subfloors
โข Repairing Joists
โ 41
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Preparation Tools & Materials
E F
A
G
B
C
H
D
K J
I
O
N
M
L
P
Q
U
T
S
R V
X W
Y
Y
Tools for flooring removal and surface preparation include: a power sander (A), jamb saw (B), putty knife (C), floor roller (D),
circular saw (E), hammer (F), hand maul (G), reciprocating saw (H), cordless drill (I), flat-edged trowel (J), notched trowel (K), stapler (L),
catโs paw (M), flat pry bar (N), heat gun (O), masonry chisel (P), crowbar (Q), nippers (R), wallboard knife (S), wood chisel (T),
long-handled floor scraper (U), Phillips screwdriver (V), standard screwdriver (W), utility knife (X), and carpenterโs level (Y).
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Measuring the Room
B efore ordering your floor covering, determine the
total square footage of your room. To do this,
divide the room into a series of squares and rectangles
that you can easily measure. Be sure to include all
areas that will be covered, such as closets and space
under your refrigerator and other movable appliances.
Measure the length and width of each area in
inches, then multiply the length times the width.
Divide that number by 144 to determine your square
footage. Add all of the areas together to figure the
square footage for the entire room, then subtract the
areas that will not be covered, such as cabinets and
other permanent fixtures.
When ordering your floor covering, be sure to
purchase 10 to 15% extra to allow for waste and
cutting. For patterned flooring, you may need as much Measure the area of the project room to calculate how
as 20% extra. much flooring you will need.
โ How to Measure Your Room
W
W L
L
L
W
Divide the room into rectangles or squares. Include closets and areas where moveable appliances are installed. Measure the
length and width of each area in inches, then multiply the length times the width. Divide that number by 144 to determine your
square footage.
Measuring the Room โ 43
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Removing Floor Coverings
W hen old floor coverings must be removed, as
is the case with many projects, thorough and
careful removal work is essential to the quality of the
backings. The long handle provides leverage and
force, and it allows you to work in a comfortable
standing position. A scraper will remove most of
new flooring installation. the flooring, but you may need other tools to finish
The difficulty of flooring removal depends on the job.
the type of floor covering and the method that was
used to install it. Carpet and perimeter-bond vinyl are
generally very easy to remove, and removing vinyl tiles
is also relatively simple. Full-spread sheet vinyl can be Tools & Materials ์บ
difficult to remove, however, and removing ceramic
tile entails a lot of work. Floor scraper Masonry chisel
With any removal project, be sure to keep Utility knife Flat pry bar
your tool blades sharp, and avoid damaging the Spray bottle End-cutting nippers
underlayment if you plan to reuse it. If youโll be Wallboard knife Liquid dishwashing
replacing the underlayment, it may be easier to remove Wet/dry vacuum detergent
the old underlayment along with the floor covering. Heat gun Scrap wood
Use a floor scraper to remove resilient floor Hand maul
coverings and to scrape off leftover adhesives or
OPTIONS FOR REMOVING OLD FLOORING
Remove the floor covering only. If the underlayment is Remove the floor covering and underlayment. If the
sturdy and in good condition, you can usually get by with underlayment is questionable or substandard, or if the floor
simply scraping off the floor covering, then cleaning and covering is bonded to the underlayment, remove the flooring
reusing the existing underlayment. and underlayment together. Taking up both layers at once
saves time.
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โ How to Prepare the Installation Space
1 2
Disconnect and remove all appliances. When bringing Remove the toilet and other floor-mounted fixtures before
the appliances back into the room, protect your new floor by installing a bathroom floor. Turn off and disconnect the water
placing cardboard or a heavy cloth on the floor and in front of supply line, then remove the bolts holding the toilet on the
the appliance locations. Before setting the appliances in place, floor.
make sure the floor adhesives are properly cured.
3 4
Ventilate the project room, especially when applying Cover entryways with sheet plastic to contain dust and
adhesives or removing old flooring. Placing a box fan in an debris while you remove the old floor.
open window will help draw dust and noxious fumes from the
work area.
(continued)
Removing Floor Coverings โ 45
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5 6
Cover heat and air vents with sheet plastic and masking Cut the paint away from the baseboard with a utility knife.
tape to prevent dust and debris from entering ductwork.
7 8
Place a scrap board against the wall to avoid damaging Remove the nails by pulling them through the back of the
the drywall. Remove the baseboard using a pry bar placed baseboard with nippers.
against the scrap board. Pry the baseboard at all nail locations.
Number the baseboards as they are removed.
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โ How to Remove Sheet Vinyl
1 2
Use a utility knife to cut the old flooring into strips about a Pull up as much flooring as possible by hand. Grip the
foot wide to make removal easier. strips close to the floor to minimize tearing.
3 4
Cut stubborn sheet vinyl into strips about 6" wide. Starting Scrape up the remaining sheet vinyl and backing with
at a wall, peel up as much of the floor covering as possible. a floor scraper. If necessary, spray the backing with the soap
If the felt backing remains, spray a solution of water and solution to loosen it. Sweep up the debris, then finish the
liquid dishwashing detergent under the surface layer to help cleanup using a wet/dry vacuum. Tip: Fill the vacuum with
separate the backing. Use a wallboard knife to scrape up about an inch of water to help contain dust.
particularly stubborn patches.
Removing Floor Coverings โ 47
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โ How to Remove Vinyl Tile
1 2
Starting at a loose seam, use a long-handled floor scraper Remove stubborn adhesive or backing by wetting the floor
to remove tiles. To remove stubborn tiles, soften the adhesive with a mixture of water and liquid dishwashing detergent, then
with a heat gun, then use a wallboard knife to pry up the tile scrape it with a floor scraper.
and scrape off the underlying adhesive.
โ How to Remove Ceramic Tile
1 2
Knock out tile using a hand maul and masonry chisel. If If you plan to reuse the underlayment, use a long-handled
possible, start in a space between tiles where the grout has floor scraper to remove any remaining adhesive. You may have
loosened. Be careful when working around fragile fixtures, to use a belt sander with a coarse sanding belt to grind off
such as drain flanges, to prevent damage. stubborn adhesive.
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โ How to Remove Carpet
1 2
Using a utility knife, cut around metal threshold strips to Cut the carpet into pieces small enough to be easily
free the carpet. Remove the threshold strips with a flat pry bar. removed. Roll up the carpet and remove it from the room, then
remove the padding. NOTE: Padding is often stapled to the
floor and usually comes up in pieces as you roll it.
3
Using end-cutting nippers or pliers, remove all of the Variation: To remove glued-down carpet, cut it into strips with
staples from the floor. If you plan to lay new carpet, leave the a utility knife, then pull up as much material as you can. Scrape
tackless strips in place unless they are damaged. up the remaining cushion material and adhesive with a floor
scraper.
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Removing Underlayment
F looring contractors routinely remove the
underlayment along with the floor covering before
installing new flooring. This saves time and makes
Removal Tip ์บ
it possible to install new underlayment thatโs ideally
suited to the new flooring. Do-it-yourselfers using this
technique should make sure to cut the flooring into
pieces that can be easily handled.
Warning ์บ
This floor removal method releases flooring particles
into the air. Be sure the flooring you are removing
does not contain asbestos.
Tools & Materials ์บ
Goggles Wood chisel
Gloves Hammer
Examine fasteners to see how the underlayment is
Circular saw with carbide- Protective ear and
attached. Use a screwdriver to expose the heads of
tipped blade eye gear the fasteners. If the underlayment has been screwed
Flat pry bar Dust mask down, youโll need to remove the floor covering and
Reciprocating saw then unscrew the underlayment.
Remove the underlayment and floor covering as though theyโre a single layer. This is an effective removal strategy with any
floor covering thatโs bonded to the underlayment.
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โ How to Remove Underlayment
1 2
Adjust the cutting depth of a circular saw to equal the Use a reciprocating saw to extend the cuts to the edges of
combined thickness of your floor covering and underlayment. the walls. Hold the blade at a slight angle to the floor and be
Using a carbide-tipped blade, cut the floor covering and careful not to damage walls or cabinets. Donโt cut deeper than
underlayment into squares measuring about 3 feet square. Be the underlayment. Use a wood chisel to complete cuts near
sure to wear safety goggles and gloves. cabinets.
3
Separate the underlayment from the subfloor using a flat Variation: If your existing floor is ceramic tile over plywood
pry bar and hammer. Remove and discard the sections of underlayment, use a hand maul and masonry chisel to chip
underlayment and floor covering immediately, watching for away the tile along the cutting lines before making cuts.
exposed nails.
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Repairing Subfloors
A solid, securely fastened subfloor minimizes floor
movement and squeaks. It also ensures that your
new floor covering will last a long time.
Tools & Materials ์บ
Flat-edged trowel Tape measure
After removing the old underlayment, inspect
Straightedge 2" deck screws
the subfloor for loose seams, moisture damage,
Framing square Carpenterโs leveler
cracks, and other flaws. If your subfloor is made of
Drill Plywood
dimension lumber rather than plywood, you can use
Circular saw 2 ร 4 lumber
plywood to patch damaged sections. If the plywood
Catโs paw 10d common nails
patch doesnโt reach the height of the subfloor,
Wood chisel Protective gloves
use floor leveler to raise its surface to match the
Hammer
surrounding area.
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โ How to Apply Floor Leveler
Floor leveler is used to fill in dips and low spots
in plywood subfloors. Mix the leveler according to
directions from the manufacturer, adding a latex or
2
acrylic bonding agent for added strength.
1
Mix the leveler according to the manufacturerโs directions, Use a straightedge to make sure the filled area is level with
then spread it onto the subfloor using a finishing trowel. the surrounding area. If necessary, apply more leveler. Allow
Build up the leveler in thin layers to avoid overfilling the area, the leveler to dry, then shave off any ridges with the edge of a
allowing each layer to dry before applying the next. trowel, or if necessary, sand it smooth.
โ How to Replace a Section of Subfloor
1 2 3
Use a framing square to mark a Remove the damaged section, then Measure the cut-out section, then
rectangle around the damage, making nail two 2 ร 4 blocks between the joists, cut a patch to fit. Use material thatโs the
sure two sides of the rectangle are centered under the cut edges for added same thickness as the original subfloor.
centered over floor joists. Remove nails support. If possible, end-nail the blocks Fasten the patch to the joists and blocks
along the lines, using a catโs paw. Make from below. Otherwise, toe-nail them using 2" deck screws spaced about 5"
the cuts using a circular saw adjusted so from above, using 10d nails. apart.
the blade cuts through the subfloor only.
Use a chisel to complete cuts near walls.
Repairing Subfloors โ 53
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Repairing Joists
A severely arched, bulged, cracked, or sagging floor
joist can only get worse over time, eventually
deforming the floor above it. Correcting a problem
Tools & Materials ์บ
4-ft. level 3" lag screws with
joist is an easy repair and makes a big difference in
Reciprocating saw washers
your finished floor. Itโs best to identify problem joists
Hammer Framing lumber
and fix them before installing your underlayment and
Chisel 16d common nails
new floor covering.
Adjustable wrench Hardwood shims
One way to fix joist problems is to fasten a few
Tape measure Metal jack posts
new joists next to a damaged floor joist in a process
Ratchet wrench
called sistering. When installing a new joist, you
may need to notch the bottom edge so it can fit over
the foundation or beam. If thatโs the case with your
joists, cut the notches in the ends no deeper than 1โ8"
of the actual depth of the joist.
โ How to Repair a Bulging Joist
1 2 3
Find the high point of the bulge in Use the measurement and reference When the joist has settled, reinforce
the floor using a level. Mark the high point from the last step to mark the it by centering a board of the same
point and measure the distance to a high point on the joist from below the height and at least 6 ft. long next to it.
reference point that extends through floor. From the bottom edge of the Fasten the board to the joist by driving
the floor, such as an exterior wall or joist, make a straight cut into the joist 12d common nails in staggered pairs
heating duct. just below the high point mark using a about 12" apart. Drive a row of three
reciprocating saw. Make the cut 3โ4 of the nails on either side of the cut in the
depth of the joist. Allow several weeks joist.
for the joist to straighten.
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โ How to Repair a Cracked or Sagging Joist
1 2 3
Identify the cracked or sagging Place a level on the bottom edge of Nail two 6-ft. 2 ร 4s together to make
joist before it causes additional the joist to determine the amount of a cross beam, then place the beam
problems. Remove any blocking or sagging that has occurred. Cut a sister perpendicular to the joists near one end
bridging above the sill or beam where joist the same length as the damaged of the joists. Position a jack post under
the sister joist will go. joist. Place it next to the damaged joist the beam and use a level to make sure
with the crown side up. If needed, notch itโs plumb before raising it.
the bottom edge of the sister joint so it
fits over the foundation or beam.
4 5
Raise the jack post by turning the threaded shaft until the Drill pairs of pilot holes in the sister joist every 12", then
cross beam is snug against the joists. Position a second jack insert 3" lag screws with washers in each hole. Cut the
post and cross beam at the other end of the joists. Raise the blocking or bridging to fit and install it between the joists in its
posts until the sister joist is flush with the subfloor. Insert original position.
tapered hardwood shims at the ends of the sister joist where it
sits on the sill or beam. Tap the shims in place with a hammer
and scrap piece of wood until theyโre snug.
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Preparing
the Base
E very floor in your house is made of layers. Under
the floor covering, you may have carpet padding,
isolation membrane, hardened adhesives, or previous
flooring materials. To create a lasting floor, you first
have to get to the underlayment and, if necessary, the
subfloor beneath it.
Plan the removal in steps. Begin by clearing the
room, redirecting traffic, and protecting adjacent
spaces from debris by sealing off doors and windows
with plastic. Donโt forget to remove baseboards and
any other trimwork that touches the floor. Then you
should be ready to take out the top floor covering.
As you work your way down through the
layers, pay attention to their condition. A damaged
underlayment is not worth preserving. For that matter,
if youโre taking up a ceramic tile floor and the work is
difficult and tedious, you may decide to take out the
underlayment to save time.
As with all demolition projects, be sure to protect
your eyes, ears, and lungs. If possible, place a fan in a
window to blow dust out of the room. Wear gloves to
prevent splinters and blisters. And remember to stop
when youโre tired. Thatโs when accidents are most
likely, and youโre the least prepared to handle them.
Take your time. This is just the beginning.
In this Chapter
โข Installing Underlayment
โข Preparing Basement Floors
โข Building Attic Floors
โข Installing a Floor-warming System
โข Installing an In-floor Electrical Outlet
โ 57
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Installing Underlayment
U nderlayment is a layer of sheeting screwed or
nailed to the subfloor to provide a smooth,
stable surface for the floor covering. The type of
Plywood
underlayment you choose depends in part on the
type of floor covering you plan to install. Ceramic
and natural stone tile floors usually require an
underlayment that stands up to moisture, such as
cementboard. For vinyl flooring, use a quality-grade
plywood; most warranties are void if the flooring
is installed over substandard underlayments. If
you want to use your old flooring as underlayment,
apply an embossing leveler to prepare it for the new
installation. Most wood flooring and carpeting do not
require underlayment and are often placed directly on Fiber/
a plywood subfloor. cementboard
When you install new underlayment, attach it
securely to the subfloor in all areas, including under
movable appliances. Notch the underlayment to fit
the roomโs contours. Insert the underlayment beneath
door casings and moldings. Once the underlayment
is installed, use a latex patching compound to fill
gaps, holes, and low spots. This compound is also
used to cover screw heads, nail heads, and seams in
underlayment. Some compounds include dry and wet
ingredients that need to be mixed, while others are
premixed. The compound is applied with a trowel or Cementboard
wallboard knife.
Tools & Materials ์บ
Drill Underlayment
Circular saw 1" deck screws
Wallboard knife Floor-patching
Power sander compound
1
โ4" notched trowel Latex additive
Straightedge Thin-set mortar
Utility knife 11โ2" galvanized deck
Isolation
Jig saw with carbide- screws
membrane
tipped blade Fiberglass-mesh
1
โ8" notched trowel wallboard tape
Flooring roller
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โ How to Install Plywood Underlayment
Plywood is the most common underlayment for vinyl coverings, like parquet, can be installed over lower-
flooring and some ceramic tile installations. For vinyl, quality exterior-grade plywood. For ceramic tile, use
use 1โ4" exterior-grade, AC plywood. This type has one 1
โ2" AC plywood. When installing plywood, leave 1โ4"
smooth side for a quality surface. Wood-based floor expansion gaps at the walls and between sheets.
1 2 3
Install a full sheet of plywood Continue fastening sheets of plywood Using a circular saw or jig saw,
along the longest wall, making sure the to the subfloor, driving the screw heads notch the plywood to meet the existing
underlayment seams are not aligned with slightly below the underlayment surface. flooring in doorways. Fasten the
the subfloor seams. Fasten the plywood Leave 1โ4" expansion gaps at the walls notched sheets to the subfloor.
to the subfloor using 1" deck screws and between sheets. Offset seams in
driven every 6" along the edges and at 8" subsequent rows.
intervals in the field of the sheet.
4 5
Mix floor-patching compound and latex or acrylic additive Let the patching compound dry, then sand the patched
following the manufacturerโs directions. Spread it over seams areas, using a power sander.
and screw heads, using a wallboard knife.
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โ How to Install Cementboard
Ceramic and natural stone tile floors usually require ceramic tile or stone tile installations. It remains
an underlayment that stands up to moisture, such stable even when wet, so it is the best underlayment
as cementboard. Fiber/cementboard is a thin, to use in areas that are likely to get wet, such as
high-density underlayment used under ceramic bathrooms. Cementboard is more expensive than
tile and vinyl flooring in situations where floor plywood, but a good investment for a large tile
height is a concern. Cementboard is used only for installation.
1 2
Mix thin-set mortar according to the manufacturerโs Fasten the cementboard to the subfloor using 11โ4"
directions. Starting at the longest wall, spread the mortar cementboard screws driven every 6" along the edges and 8"
on the subfloor in a figure eight pattern using a 1โ4" notched throughout the sheet. Drive the screw heads flush with the
trowel. Spread only enough mortar for one sheet at a time. Set surface. Continue spreading mortar and installing sheets along
the cementboard on the mortar with the rough side up, making the wall. OPTION: If installing fiber/cementboard underlayment,
sure the edges are offset from the subfloor seams. use a 3โ16" notched trowel to spread the mortar, and drill pilot
holes for all screws.
3 4 5
Cut cementboard pieces as To cut holes, notches, or irregular Place fiberglass-mesh wallboard
necessary, leaving an 1โ8" gap at all joints shapes, use a jig saw with a carbide- tape over the seams. Use a wallboard
and a 1โ4" gap along the room perimeter. tipped blade. Continue installing knife to apply thin-set mortar to the
For straight cuts, use a utility knife to cementboard sheets to cover the entire seams, filling the gaps between sheets
score a line through the fiber-mesh layer floor. and spreading a thin layer of mortar over
just beneath the surface, then snap the the tape. Allow the mortar to set for two
board along the scored line. days before starting the tile installation.
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โ How to Install Isolation Membrane
Isolation membrane is used to protect ceramic used over an entire floor. Isolation membrane is also
tile installations from movement that may occur available in a liquid form that can be poured over the
on cracked concrete floors. This product is used project area.
primarily for covering individual cracks, but it can be
1 2
Thoroughly clean the subfloor, then apply thin-set mortar Roll out the membrane over the mortar. Cut the membrane
with a 1โ8" notched trowel. Start spreading the mortar along a to fit tightly against the walls, using a straightedge and utility
wall in a section as wide as the membrane and 8 to 10 ft. long. knife.
NOTE: For some membranes, you must use a bonding material
other than mortar. Read and follow manufacturerโs directions.
3 4
Starting in the center of the membrane, use a heavy floor Repeat steps 1 through 3, cutting the membrane as
roller to smooth out the surface toward the edges. This frees necessary at the walls and obstacles, until the floor is
trapped air and presses out excess bonding material. completely covered with membrane. Do not overlap the
seams, but make sure theyโre tight. Allow the mortar to set for
two days before installing the tile.
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โ How to Install Soundproofing Underlayment
1
Subfloor
Joist
Flooring Underlayment
Cork underlayment
Soundproofing underlayment fits just under the floor covering. Remove floor covering, if necessary (see removal how-to steps
starting on page 40).
2 3
Patch all holes, cracks, and joints in the plywood Cut the cork into 2" strips using a straightedge and utility
underlayment with cement-based compound, using a knife. Using a manufacturer approved adhesive, apply the
wallboard knife. The patches must be dry and the subfloor strips to the base of the walls so the bottom edge sits on the
clean before continuing. floor. Press firmly to eliminate air bubbles.
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Unroll the cork the length of the room
4 so the curled side is face down. Butt it
against the 2" strips. Be careful not to
crease the cork; itโs flexible enough to curl,
but not to fold.
5 6
Pull back at least half of the roll. Apply adhesive to the Roll the cork front to back and side to side using a floor roller.
plywood underlayment and spread it out, using a notched Repeat these steps to adhere the other half of the cork to the
trowel. Replace the cork over the adhesive. plywood underlayment. Cover the rest of the floor the same
way. Butt joints tightly together, but donโt overlap them.
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โ Installing Raised Underlayment Panels
Concrete floors are practical and durableโand plywood panels have dimpled plastic on the bottom.
generally cold and uncomfortable. For a fast and easy This allows air to circulate underneath so that the
makeover, you can now find raised underlayment panels concrete stays dry, and insulates the flooring above.
that simply rest on the concrete and provide a surface The assembled panels can support laminates, resilient
for other flooring materials. The tongue-and-groove sheets, or tiles. And you can install them in a weekend.
โ How to Install Raised Underlayment Panels
1 2
Start at one corner, and measure the length and width of Create an expansion gap around the edges. Place 1โ4"
the room from that starting point. Calculate the number of spacers at all walls, doors, and other large obstacles. To make
panels you will need to cover the space in both directions. If your own spacers, cut sheets of 1โ4" plywood to the thickness
the starting corner is not square, trim the first row to create a of the panels, and hold them in place temporarily with
straight starting line. adhesive tape.
3 4
Dry-lay a row of panels across the room. If the last row will Starting in the corner, lay the first panel with the grooved
be less than 6" wide, balance it by trimming the first panel side against the 1โ4" spacers. Slide the next panel into place and
or the starting row, if necessary, to account for the row end press-fit the groove of the second panel onto the tongue of the
pieces. first. Check the edges against the wall.
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5 6
Repeat these steps to complete the first row. If necessary, Cut the last panel to fit snugly between the next-to-last
tap the panels into place with a scrap piece of lumber and a panel and the 1โ4" spacer on the far wall. Install the last panel at
rubber mallet or hammerโjust be careful not to damage the an angle and tap it down. Continue working from the starting
tongue or groove edges. Starting with the second row, stagger point, checking after each row to be sure the panels are
the seams so that the panels interlock. square and level.
7 8
When you reach the last row and last panel to complete When all the panels are in place and the finished floor is
your installation, you may have to cut the panel to fit. Measure installed, remove the spacers from around the perimeter of the
for fit, allowing for the 1โ4" expansion gap from the wall. Cut the room.
panel and fit it into place.
Installing Underlayment โ 65
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Preparing Basement Floors
H ow you prepare a concrete basement floor depends
on the condition of the floor, the floor covering you
plan to use, and how you want the floor to feel underfoot.
Tools & Materials ์บ
Vacuum Vinyl floor-patching
To lay flooring directly over concrete, prepare the
Masonry chisel compound
floor to make it smooth and flat. Fill cracks, holes,
Hammer, trowel Concrete primer
and expansion joints with a vinyl or cement-based
Floor scraper Floor leveler
floor-patching compound. If the concrete is especially
Long-nap paint roller Pressure-treated 2 ร 4s
rough or uneven, apply a self-leveling, cement-based
Wheelbarrow 6-mil polyethylene
liquid floor leveler that fills low spots and dries to form
Utility knife sheeting
a hard, smooth surface.
Gage rake Packing tape
For a more resilient and comfortable basement
4-ft. level Cedar shims
floor, build a wood subfloor. It serves as a nailing
Circular saw Construction adhesive
surface for certain types of flooring. A subfloor does
Caulk gun Concrete fasteners
take up valuable headroom, so you may want to
Powder-actuated nailer 3
โ4" tongue-and-groove
save space by using 1 ร 4 sleepers instead of 2 ร 4s.
Chalk line plywood
Consider how the added floor height will affect room
Drill 2" wallboard screws
transitions and the bottom step of the basement stairs.
Sledgehammer
Choose a floor covering before preparing a concrete
floor, solve any moisture problems before installing
a new surface, and be sure to follow manufacturer
recommendations for installing on concrete. Both the
results and the warranty may depend on it. Moisture Tip ์บ
โ4" plywood
3
subflooring
Plastic
moisture barrier
2 ร 4 sleeper
Basement slab
To test your floor for moisture, duct tape a
2 ร 2 ft. piece of clear plastic to the concrete.
Most basement floors need preparation before new flooring Remove the plastic after 24 hours. If thereโs moisture
can be laid. Patching compound and floor leveler can smooth on the plastic, you have a moisture problem. Do not
rough concrete, while a wood subfloor creates a new surface install flooring until the problem has been fixed.
that feels like a framed wood floor.
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โ How to Patch Concrete Floors
1 2
Remove any loose or flaking concrete and vacuum the floor After the compound has cured, use a floor scraper to
with a masonry chisel and hammer. Mix a batch of vinyl floor- scrape the patched areas smooth.
patching compound, following the manufacturerโs directions.
Apply the compound using a smooth trowel, slightly overfilling
the cavity. Smooth the patch flush with the surrounding surface.
โ How to Apply Floor Leveler
1 2 3
Remove any loose material and Following the manufacturerโs Distribute the leveler evenly, using
clean the concrete thoroughly so itโs instructions, mix the floor leveler a gage rake or spreader. Work quickly
free of dust, dirt, oils, and paint. Apply with water. The batch should be large since the leveler begins to harden in
an even layer of concrete primer to the enough to cover the entire floor area to 15 minutes. Use a trowel to feather the
entire surface using a long-nap paint the desired thickness (up to 1"). Pour edges and create smooth transitions
roller. Let the primer dry completely the leveler over the floor. with uncovered areas. Let the leveler
before continuing. dry for 24 hours.
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โ How to Build a Basement Subfloor
1 2
Chip away loose or protruding concrete with a masonry Lay out pressure-treated 2 x 4s along the perimeter of the
chisel and hammer, then vacuum the floor. Roll out strips of room. Position the boards 1โ2" in from all walls (inset). NOTE:
6-mil polyethylene sheeting, extending them 31" up each wall, Before laying out the sleepers, determine where the partition
Overlap strips by 6", then seal the seams with packing tape. walls will go. If a wall will fall between parallel sleepers, add an
Temporarily tape the edges along the walls. Be careful not to extra sleeper to support the planned wall.
damage the sheeting.
3 4
Using a circular saw, cut the sleepers to fit between the Where necessary, use tapered cedar shims to compensate
perimeter boards, leaving a 1โ4" gap at each end. Position the for dips and variations in the floor. Place a 4-ft. level across
first sleeper so its center is 16" from the outside edge of the neighboring sleepers. Apply construction adhesive to two
perimeter board. Lay out the remaining sleepers, using 16"-on- wood shims. Slide the shims under the board from opposite
center spacing. sides until the board is level with adjacent sleepers.
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5 6
Fasten the perimeter boards and sleepers to the floor Establish a control line for the first row of plywood sheets
using a powder-actuated nailer or masonry screws. Drive a by measuring 49" from the wall and marking the outside
fastener through the center of each board at 16" intervals. sleeper at each end of the room. Snap a chalk line across the
Fastener heads should not protrude above the boardโs surface. sleepers at the marks. Run a 1โ4"-wide bead of adhesive along
Place a fastener at each shim location, making sure the the first six sleepers, stopping just short of the control line.
fastener penetrates both shims.
7 8
Position the first sheet of plywood so the end is 1โ2" away Install the remaining sheets in the first row, maintaining an
from the wall and the grooved edge is flush with the control 1
โ8" gap between ends. Begin the second row with a half-sheet
line. Fasten the sheet to the sleepers using 2" wallboard (4 ft. long) so the end joints between rows are staggered. Fit
screws. Drive a screw every 6" along the edges and every 8" in the tongue of the half sheet into the groove of the adjoining
the field. Donโt drive screws along the grooved edge until the sheet. If necessary, use a sledgehammer and wood block to
next row of sheeting is in place. help close the joint. After completing the second row, begin
the third row with a full sheet. Alternate this pattern until the
subfloor is complete.
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Building Attic Floors
E xisting floors in most unfinished attics are merely
ceiling joists and are too small to support living
spaces. However, if your floor already has floor trusses,
Floor joist cavities offer space for concealing the
plumbing, wiring, and ductwork servicing your attic, so
consider these systems as you plan. Plan the locations
joists 2 ร 8 or larger, or the same framing as the floor of partition walls to determine if additional blocking
on your main level, it probably doesnโt need additional between joists is necessary.
framing. When the framing is done, the mechanical
Before you build, consult an architect, engineer, elements and insulation are in place, and everything
or general contractor as well as a local building has been inspected and approved, complete the floor
inspector. Ask what size joists youโll need and which by installing 3โ4" tongue-and-groove plywood. If your
options your local building codes allow. Joist sizing is remodel will include kneewalls, you can omit the
based on joist span and spacing; an attic floor must be subflooring behind the kneewalls, but a complete
able to support 40 pounds per square feet (psf) of live subfloor adds strength and provides a sturdy surface
load, such as occupants and furniture, and 10 psf of for storage.
dead load, including wallboard and floor covering.
The simplest method for strengthening your
attic floor is to install an additional joist next to each
existing joist and nail the two together. This process,
known as sistering, is done when the current joists are Tools & Materials ์บ
damaged or loose, squeak, or canโt support additional
weight. This method only works for joists that are 2 ร 6 Circular saw 10d common nails
or larger, closely spaced, and without obstructions. Rafter square 8d common nails
An alternative is to build a new floor by placing Drill 2 ร 4 lumber
larger joists between the existing ones. By resting the Tape measure 3
โ4" tongue-&-grove
joists on 2 ร 4 spacers, you avoid obstructions and Caulk gun plywood
minimize damage to the ceiling surfaces below. Be Joist lumber Construction adhesive
aware that the spacers will reduce your headroom by 16d common nails 21โ4" wallboard screws
11โ2" in addition to the depth of the joists.
Rafter
Floor joists
Exterior load- Interior load-
bearing wall bearing wall
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โ How to Add Sister Joists
1 2
Remove all insulation from the joist cavities and carefully Before cutting the joists, sight down both narrow edges of
remove any blocking or bridging between the joists. Determine each board to check for crowning, which is an upward arching
the lengths for the sister joists by measuring the existing joists. along the length of the board. Draw an arrow pointing toward
Also measure the outside end of each joist to determine how the arch. Joists must be installed crown side up. Cut the board
much of the top corner needs to be cut away to fit the joist to length, then clip the top outside corner to match the existing
beneath the roof sheathing. NOTE: Joists that rest on a bearing joist.
wall should overlap each other by at least 3".
3 4
Set the sister joists in place, flush against the existing joists Face-nail the joists together using 10d common nails. Drive
with their ends aligned. Toenail each sister joist to the top three nails in a row, spacing the rows 12" to 16" apart. To
plates of both supporting walls using two 16d common nails. minimize damage (such as cracking and nail popping) to the
ceiling surface below, you can use a pneumatic nail gun or 3"
lag screws instead of nails. Install new blocking between the
sistered joists as required by the local building code.
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โ How to Build an Attic Floor Using New Joists
1 2
Remove any blocking or bridging from between the existing Create a layout for the new joists by measuring across the
joists, being careful not to disturb the ceiling below. Cut 2 ร 4 tops of existing joists and using a rafter square to transfer
spacers to fit snugly between each pair of joists. Lay the the measurements down to the spacers. Using 16"-on-center
spacers flat on the top plate of each supporting wall. Nail the spacing, mark the layout along one exterior wall, then mark an
spacers to the top plates using 16d common nails. identical layout on the interior bearing wall. The layout on the
opposing exterior wall will be offset 111โ2" to account for the
joist overlap at the interior wall.
3 4
Measure from the outer edge of the exterior wall to the Set the joists in place on their layout marks. Toenail the
far edge of the interior bearing wall. The joists must overlap outside end of each joist to the spacer on the exterior wall
above the interior wall by at least 3". Measure the outside end using three 8d common nails.
of each joist to determine how much of the top corner needs
to be cut away to fit under the roof sheathing. Cut the joists to
length, then clip the top outside corners as necessary.
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5 6
Nail the joists together where they overlap atop the Install blocking or bridging between the joists, as required
interior bearing wall, using three 10d common nails for each by your local building code. As a suggested minimum, the new
connection. Toenail the joists to the spacers on the interior joists should be blocked as close as possible to the outside
bearing wall, using 8d common nails. ends and at the points where they overlap at the interior wall.
โ How to Install Subflooring
Subflooring
Joist
2 ร 4 Backing
Install the subfloor only after all of the framing, plumbing, wiring, and ductwork are complete and have passed the necessary
building inspections. Install insulation as needed and complete any caulking necessary for soundproofing. Fasten the subflooring
sheets with construction adhesive and 21/4" wallboard or deck screws, making sure the sheets are perpendicular to the joists and
the end joints are staggered between rows. Where joists overlap at an interior bearing wall, add backing as needed to compensate
for the offset in the layout. Nail a 2 ร 4 (or wider) board to the face of each joist to support the edges of the sheets.
Building Attic Floors โ 73
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Installing a Floor-warming System
T o enjoy the look of ceramic tile without the Floor-sensing Timer
thermostat Dedicated circuit
discomfort of cold feet, install a floor-warming Electrical
cable
system. A typical system uses an electric wire conduit
mesh that heats up when energized, like an
electric blanket. These systems are designed to
heat only the floor, so they require little energy.
The mesh is installed under the floor covering
and hard-wired to a 120-volt GFCI circuit.
A thermostat and timer control the system
automatically.
For a successful project, check the
resistance often as you install the wire heating
mesh, and make sure you have adequate
power for the circuit that controls the in-
floor heat. If youโre installing a new circuit,
consider hiring an electrician to make the
connection at the service panel. To order a
floor-warming system, contact a manufacturer
or dealer. Thermostat
Floor-warming systems can also be used under Power
sensor wire
lead
laminate, vinyl, and floating floors. They are not suited Floor tile
for use under a wood covering that requires nailing,
because nails can damage the wires. Also, use rosin Heating
paper instead of asphalt felt paper as an underlayment. mat Thin-set
mortar
When asphalt paper warms up, it can smell very
unpleasant. Heating mat
Concrete
(or subfloor)
Tools & Materials ์บ
Tip ์บ
Multi-tester Floor-warming system
Drill 21โ2 ร 4" double-gang
Plumb bob electrical box with
Chisel 4" adapter cover
Tubing cutter 2 โ2"-deep single-gang
1
Combination tool electrical box
Vacuum โ2"-dia. thin-wall conduit
1
Chalk line Setscrew fittings
Grinder 12-gauge NM cable
Glue gun Cable clamps
Fish tape Double-sided tape Floor-warming systems must be installed on a
circuit with adequate amperage and a GFCI breaker
Aviation snips Electrical tape
(some systems have built-in GFCIs). Smaller systems
3
โ8 ร โ4" square-notched
1
Insulated cable clamps
may tie into an existing circuit, but larger ones often
trowel Wire connectors need a dedicated circuit. Follow all local building and
Tile tools and materials electrical codes that apply to your project.
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โ How to Install a Floor-warming System
1 2
Check the resistance value (ohm) of each heating mat Remove the wall surface to expose the framing. Locate the
using a digital multi-tester. Record the reading. Compare electrical boxes approximately 60" from the floor, making sure
your reading to the factory-tested reading noted by the the power leads on the heating mats will reach the electrical
manufacturer. Your reading must fall within the acceptable box. Mount a 2 ร 2"-deep ร 4"-wide double-gang electrical
range determined by the manufacturer. If it doesnโt, the mat box for the thermostat to the wall stud. Mount a single-gang
has been damaged and should not be installed. Contact the electrical box for the timer on the other side of the stud.
manufacturer for assistance.
3 4
Setscrew
fittings
Use a plumb bob or level to mark points on the bottom wall Cut two lengths of thin-wall electrical conduit with a tubing
plate directly below the two knockouts on the thermostat box. cutter to fit between the thermostat box and the bottom
At each mark, drill a 1โ2" hole through the top of the plate. Drill plate. Place the bottom end of each conduit about 1โ4" into the
two more holes as close as possible to the floor through the respective holes in the bottom plate and fasten the top ends to
side of the plate, intersecting the top holes. Clean up the holes the thermostat box using setscrew fittings. If youโre installing
with a chisel to ensure smooth routing. three or more mats, use 3โ4" conduit instead of 1โ2".
(continued)
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5 Branch 6
cable
Cable
from
power
source
2" minimum
Run 12-gauge NM electrical cable from the service panel Vacuum the floor thoroughly. Plan the ceramic tile layout
(power source) to the timer box. Attach the cable to the box and snap reference lines for the tile installation (see page 80).
with a cable clamp, leaving 8" of extra cable extending into the Spread the heating mats over the floor so the power leads are
box. Drill a 5โ8" hole through the center of the stud about 12" close to the electrical boxes. Position the mats 3" to 6" away
above the boxes. Run a short branch cable from the timer box from walls, showers, bathtubs, and toilet flanges. Place the
to the thermostat box, securing both ends with clamps. The mats in the kick space of a vanity, but not under the vanity
branch cable should make a smooth curve where it passes cabinet or over expansion joints in the concrete slab. Set the
through the stud. edges of the mats close together, but donโt overlap them. The
heating wires in one mat must be at least 2" away from the
wires in the neighboring mat.
7 8
Confirm that the power leads still reach the thermostat Create recesses in the floor for the connections between
box. Secure the mats to the floor using strips of double-sided power leads and heating-mat wires, using a grinder or a cold
tape spaced every 2 ft. Make sure the mats are lying flat with chisel and hammer. These insulated connections are too thick
no wrinkles or ripples. Press firmly to secure the mats to the to lay under the tile and must be recessed to within 1โ8" of the
tape. floor. Clean away any debris and secure the connections in the
recesses with a bead of hot glue.
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9 10
Thread a steel fish tape down one of the conduits and Feed the heat sensor wire through the remaining conduit
attach the ends of the power leads to the fish tape using and weave it into the mesh of the nearest mat. Use dabs of
electrical tape. Pull the fish tape and leads up through the hot glue to secure the sensor wire directly between two blue
conduit. Disconnect the fish tape, then secure the leads to resistance wires, extending it 6" to 12" into the mat. Test the
the box with insulated cable clamps. Use aviation snips or resistance of the heating mats with a multi-tester as you did
linesmanโs pliers to cut off excess from the leads, leaving 8" in step 1 to make sure the resistance wires have not been
extending past the clamps. damaged. Record the reading.
11 12 Adapter cover
Sensor wire
Install the floor tile as shown on pages 150 to 155. Using Install an adapter cover (mud ring) to the thermostat box,
thin-set mortar as an adhesive, spread it carefully over the then patch the wall opening with wallboard. Complete the
floor and mats with a 3โ8" ร 1โ4" square-notched trowel. Check wiring connections for the thermostat and timer following
the resistance of the mats periodically as you install the tile. If the manufacturerโs instructions. Attach the sensor wire to the
a mat becomes damaged, clean up any exposed mortar and thermostat setscrew connection. Apply the manufacturerโs
contact the manufacturer. When the installation is complete, wiring labels to the thermostat box and service panel. Mount
check the resistance of the mats once again and record the the thermostat and timer. Complete the circuit connection
reading. at the service panel or branch connection. After the flooring
materials have cured, test the system.
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Installing an In-floor
Electrical Outlet
I nstalling an electrical outlet in the floor is
surprisingly simple. Floor box kits have everything
you need to add an outlet in any room. The outlet
is covered when not in use to protect against debris
falling into the receptacle.
The outlet is placed in the subfloor before the
floor covering is installed. If the floor is already
finished, remove an area of flooring.
Before installing an outlet, check with your local
building department for any restrictions.
Tools & Materials ์บ
Floor box assembly kit Cordless drill
Screwdriver Jig saw
โ How to Install an In-floor Electrical Outlet
1 2
Place the box on the subfloor where the outlet will be Place the clip for the floor box in the opening so the lip sits
installed. Make sure it sits next to a floor joist. Trace around on top of the subfloor. Attach the clip to the subfloor and joist
the box. Remove the box, then drill holes at the corners on the using the four 11โ4" self-tapping screws that came with the kit.
floor. Cut out the opening, using a jig saw.
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3 4
Slide the box onto the clip so the adjusting screw is aligned Turn off the power at the main power source. Insert
with the threads on the clip. Screw the box into the clip, electrical wires into the box and wire the receptacle in
lowering the box into place. Do not set the box all the way to accordance with your local building codes. Push the wires and
the subfloor. receptacle inside the box.
5 6 7
Install the floor covering. Using the With the outlet caps open, set the Turn the adjustable screw to set the
sealant that came with the kit, apply cover on the box. Align the holes with face of the outlet at the desired height.
a 1โ8"-thick bead of sealant around the the recessed bosses and the button Place the button that came with the kit
outside rib of the cover where it fits hole with the adjustable screw. Insert in the button hole.
over the box. two machine screws and tighten, but
donโt overtighten.
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Installations
O f all the home improvements you can choose
to handle yourself, flooring may be the most
rewarding. You probably own and know how to use
most of the tools, and the others are easy to get from
rental centers. If youโre concerned about your ability,
take courage. Installing a floor does not require
exceptional strength or skillโjust planning and care.
In this Chapter:
โข Getting Started
โข Cutting Door Casing
โข Threshold & Moldings
โข Hardwood
โข Laminate
โข Parquet
โข Resilient Sheet Vinyl
โข Rubber Roll
โข Resilient Tile
โข Combination Tile
โข Bamboo Planks
โข Cork Tile
โข Recycled Rubber Tile
โข Ceramic & Stone Tile
โข Mosaic Glass Tile
โข Installing Borders
โข Carpet
โข Carpet Squares
โ 81
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Getting Started
Y our first row of flooring, your first few tiles, or
your first piece of sheeting sets the direction for
the rest of your floor. That means you need to create a
and butt the first row of flooring against the spacers.
However, this only works if your wall is straight. If it is
bowed or out of square, your layout will be affected.
starting point carefully, or the whole project may run To check your reference lines for squareness,
off course. You can do this by carefully planning your use the 3-4-5 triangle method. Measuring from your
layout and establishing accurate reference lines. centerpoint, make a mark along a reference line at 3
In general, tile flooring begins at the center of the ft. and along a perpendicular reference line at 4 ft.
room and is installed in quadrants along layout lines, The distance between the two points should be exactly
also called working lines. After establishing reference 5 ft. If itโs not, adjust your lines accordingly.
lines that mark the center of the room, lay the tile in
a dry run along those lines to ensure you wonโt have
to cut off more than half of a tile in the last row. If
necessary, adjust your reference lines by half the width Tools & Materials ์บ
of the tile to form your layout lines.
For most floating floors and tongue-and-groove Tape measure Hammer
floors, you only need a single reference line along the Chalk line 8d finish nails
starting wall. If your wall is straight, you donโt even need Framing square Spacers
a working line. You can place spacers along the wall
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โ How to Establish Reference Lines for Tile
y
5'
4'
3'
x
Mark the centerpoint of opposite walls, then snap a chalk Snap chalk lines between the centerpoints of opposite walls
line between the marks. Mark the centerpoint of the chalk line. to establish perpendicular reference lines. Check the lines for
Place a framing square at the centerpoint so one side is flush squareness using the 3-4-5 triangle method.
with the chalk line. Snap a perpendicular reference along the
adjacent side of the framing square.
โ How to Establish Reference Lines for Wood and Floating Floors
If your wall is out of square or bowed, make a mark on If your wall is straight, place 12" spacers along the wall,
the floor 1โ2" from the wall at both ends and snap a chalk line. then butt your flooring up against the spacers.
Drive 8d finish nails every 2" to 3" along the line. Use this as
your reference line and butt the first row of flooring against the
nails (see page 94).
Getting Started โ 83
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โ How to Check the Walls for Square
If the flooring you have chosen depends on straight four simple techniques to find out if the corners in
edges, whether because of the material or its your room are square, and whether the walls are
pattern, you will be better prepared for variations if straight.
you know about them before you begin. Use these
3'
4'
5'
To check any corner for square over a longer distance than To find whether a wall bulges in to the room or bows out,
the carpenterโs square can reach, use the 3-4-5- method. you can use a masonโs line and a measuring tape. Measure out
Measure and mark a point 3 feet out from the corner in one an equal distance from the corners at two ends of a wall, and
direction. Do the same on the adjacent wall at a point 4 feet fasten a masonโs line between the two points. Then measure
from the corner; make sure the two points are the same height the distance between the masonโs line and the wall at several
from the floor. Then measure between the two points. If this points. This will reveal any bulges or bows in the wall.
third measurement is exactly 5 feet, the corner is square.
Tip ์บ Tip ์บ
Hold a carpenterโs square perfectly level, as it would With a helper, stretch a measuring tape across
be on the floor, and fit it into the corner. If the point the room diagonally, from one corner to the
of the square does not touch exactly where the walls opposite. Record the measurement, then repeat the
meet, the corner has an acute angle. If the corner of measurement between the other two corners. If the
the square touches but the two ends do not touch measurements are the same, the corners are more
both walls at the same time, the corner has an or less square. Note: If the diagonal measurements
obtuse angle. do not match, one or more of the corners is probably
not square. Before you can compensate for the
difference, you will need to know whether the
individual corners are acute (less than 90ยฐ) or obtuse
(more than 90ยฐ). See Tip to left.
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Cutting Door Casing
U nless you plan to install carpet, you will want your
floor covering to fit under your door casing. This
allows the casing to cover the gap between the flooring
These directions show the casing being cut
to accommodate ceramic tile. Because the tile
will be placed on top of cementboard, a piece of
and the wall, and it allows wood floors to expand and cementboard is placed under the tile when the casing
contract without dislodging the casing. If you try to is marked.
butt the flooring against the casing, chances are youโll
end up with an unsightly gap.
It only takes a few minutes to cut the casing. If
youโre installing ceramic tile or parquet, keep in mind Tools & Materials ์บ
youโll be placing the flooring over adhesive, so cut the
casing about an 1โ8" above the top of tile to allow for Jamb saw Floor covering
the height of the adhesive.
โ How to Cut Door Casing
1 2 3
Place a piece of flooring and Cut the casing at the mark using a Slide a piece of flooring under the
underlayment against the door casing. jamb saw. door jamb to make sure it fits easily.
Mark the casing about an 1โ8" above the
top of the flooring.
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Thresholds & Moldings
W hen you install wood or laminate floors, leave a
1
โ2" gap between the perimeter of the floor and
the walls to allow the wood to expand and contract
with changes in temperature and humidity.
You will also have gaps that need to be covered
at thresholds, between rooms, and around small
obstacles, such as pipes. For every situation, there is a
A
molding to fit your needs.
A floor isnโt truly finished until all of the pieces
are in place. These moldings help give your floors a
professional look. The names for moldings may differ
slightly between manufacturers.
Wood molding is used for a smooth transition B
between the hardwood in the dining area and the tile
in the adjoining room.
A. Carpet reducers are used to finish off and
create a smooth transition between flooring and
carpeting. C
B. Stair nosing is used to cover the exposed edges of
stairs where the risers meet the steps. It is also
used between step-downs and landings.
C. Baby threshold is used in place of baseboards and
quarter round in front of sliding glass doors or
door thresholds, to fill the gap between the floor
and door.
D. Reducer strips, also called transition strips, D
are used between rooms when the floors are
at different heights and composed of different
materials.
E. Overlap reducers are also used between rooms
when one floor is at a different height than an
adjoining room.
F. T-moldings are used to connect two floors of
E
equal height. They are also used in doorways
and thresholds to provide a smooth transition.
T-moldings do not butt up against the flooring,
allowing the wood to expand and contract
under it.
G. Baseboards are used for almost all types of floors
and are available in a wide variety of designs and
thicknesses. They are applied at the bottom of
walls to cover the gap between the floor and walls. G
H. Quarter round, similar to shoemolding, is installed
along the bottom edge of base board and sits
F
on top of the floor. It covers any remaining gaps
between the floor and walls. H
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Hardwood
H ardwood is a traditional favorite for floors. It
adds character and sets the mood for a room.
The classic beauty of hardwood lends itself to any
floors are set in adhesive, while floating floors fasten
together at the tongue-and-groove connections and are
not connected to the floor at all.
decorating style and trend while providing a consistent Wood floors absorb moisture from the humidity in
element for tying rooms together. the air, causing the wood to expand. When the air is
Although hardwood was once reserved for formal dry, wood contracts. The flooring is kept 1โ2" from the
rooms, itโs now used in virtually every room in the walls to allow for this expansion and contraction. The
home, including kitchens. Unlike other floor coverings, gap is covered by the baseboard and base shoe.
hardwood will last a lifetime. If properly maintained, it Wood must be โacclimatedโ to the room in
can actually look more charming as it ages. which it will be installed. Place the flooring in the
As youโll see in this section, there are a variety of room under normal temperatures and humidity
wood floor coverings that require different installation conditions. The length of this acclimation period
techniques. Tongue-and-groove strip flooring is varies, sometimes taking up to a full week, so check
installed using a power nailer, parquet and end grain manufacturerโs recommendations before installing.
Hardwood โ 87
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โ Tools for Hardwood Floors
B
C
A
F
D
E
Tools and Materials for hardwood include: Power tools for hardwood flooring installation include: miter saw (A), circular saw (B),
jig saw (C), rubber mallet (D), power nailer (E), cordless drill (F).
C
B
A
D
H
G
I
E
F
J
K L M
Hand tools for hardwood flooring installation include: floor roller (A), notched trowel (B), framing square (C), stapler (D), tape
measure (E), hammer (F), chalk line (G), nail set (H), rubber mallet (I), floor pull bar (J), putty knife (K), utility knife (L), caulk gun (M).
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โ How to Cut Hardwood Flooring
Ripcut hardwood planks from the back side to avoid When ripcutting hardwood flooring with a circular saw,
splintering the top surface. Measure the distance from the wall place another piece of flooring next to the one marked for
to the edge of the last board installed, subtracting 1โ2" to allow cutting to provide a stable surface for the foot of the saw.
for an expansion gap. Transfer the measurement to the back of Clamp a cutting guide to the planks to ensure a straight cut.
the flooring, and mark the cut with a chalk line.
Crosscut hardwood flooring using a power miter box. Place Make notched or curved cuts in hardwood flooring with a
the top surface face up to prevent splintering. coping saw or jig saw. If using a jig saw, the finished surface
should face down. Clamp the flooring to your work surface
when cutting.
Hardwood โ 89
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โ Installing Tongue-and-Groove Hardwood Flooring
Tongue-and-groove hardwood flooring has always been The more than 60 exotic hardwoods include
popular with homeowners. It offers an attractive look, Brazilian cherry, Australian cypress, Honduran
is one of the longest lasting floor coverings, and can be mahogany, tobaccowood, teak, zebrawood, and
stripped and refinished to look like new. bambooโwhich is not really wood but a type of
Oak has been the most common type of strip grass.
flooring because of its durability and wood graining, This section describes how to install nailed-down
and itโs the species most people think of when tongue-and-groove flooring, how to install a decorative
hardwood is mentioned. Other woods, such as maple, medallion, and how to install tongue-and-groove strip
cherry, and birch, are also becoming popular. flooring over troweled-on adhesive. Customizing your
Exotic species of wood from around the world floor with borders, accents, and medallions is easier
are now finding their way into American homes as than you think. A number of manufacturers produce
people want a premium strip or plank floor that is a variety of decorative options made to match the
unique and stylish, and expresses their personalities. thickness of your floor.
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โ How to Install Tongue-and-Groove Hardwood Flooring
1 2
Cover the entire subfloor with rosin paper. Staple the paper Make a mark on the floor 1โ2" from the starter wall at both
to the subfloor, overlapping edges by 4". Cut the paper with a ends of the wall. Snap a chalk line between the marks. Nail
utility knife to butt against the walls. 8d finish nails every 2" to 3" along the chalk line to mark the
location for your first row.
3 4
Lay out the first 8 rows of flooring in a dry run with the Place the starter row against the nails on the chalk line.
groove side facing the wall. Make sure the first row of boards is Drill pilot holes in the flooring every 6" to 8", about 1โ2" from
straight. Arrange the boards to get a good color and grain mix. the groove edge. Face nail the first row until the nail heads
Offset the ends by at least 6". are just above the boards, then sink them using a nail set. (Be
careful not to hit the boards with your hammer or youโll mar
the surface.)
(continued)
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5 Tip ์บ
To install crooked boards, drill pilot holes above
the tongue and insert nails. Fasten a scrap board
to the subfloor using screws. Force the floor board
straight using a pry bar and a scrap board placed in
front of the flooring. With pressure on the floor board,
Drill pilot holes every 6" to 8" directly above the tongue, blind nail it into place.
keeping the drill at a 45ยฐ angle.
6 7 8
Blind nail a nail into each pilot hole. Set the second row of boards in place To install the last board in a row,
Keep the nail heads 1โ2" out, then set against the starter row, fitting together place the tongue and groove joints
them just below the surface, using a the tongue and groove connections. Use together, then place a flooring pull bar
nail set. a scrap board and rubber mallet to tap over the end of the board. Hit the end
the floor boards together. Drill pilot holes of the pull bar with a hammer until the
and blind nail the boards. Do this for the board slides into place. Stay 1โ2" away
next few rows. from the walls.
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9 10
Once you have several rows installed and have enough When youโre out of room for the power nailer, drill pilot
room, use a power nailer. Place the nailer lip over the edge of holes and blind nail the boards. For the last rows, drill pilot
the board and strike it with a rubber mallet. Drive a nail 2" from holes in the top of the boards, 1โ2" from the tongue, and face
the end of each board and about every 8" in the field. Keep a nail them. The last row may need to be ripped to size. Pull the
few rows of flooring laid out ahead of you as you work, and last row into place using the flooring pull bar, leaving a 1โ2" gap
keep the joints staggered. along the wall. Drill pilot holes and face nail.
11 Tip ์บ
To install around an object, cut To reverse directions of the
a notch in the board. For larger tongue and groove for doorways,
obstacles, cut 45ยฐ miters in boards glue a spline into the groove of the
so the grooves face away from board. Fit the groove of the next
Install a reducer strip or transition the object. Rip the tongues off the board onto the spline, then nail the
strip between the wood floor and an boards. Set the boards against the board in place.
adjoining room. Cut the strip to size. Fit object and the flooring, fitting the
the stripโs groove over the floor boardโs mitered ends together. Drill pilot
tongue, then drill pilot holes and face holes and face nail in place. Apply
nail. Set the nails with a nail set. Fill all silicone caulk between the floor.
visible nail holes with wood putty.
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โ How to Install Tongue-and-Groove Flooring Using Adhesive
1 2
To establish a straight layout line, snap a chalk line parallel Apply flooring adhesive to the subfloor on the other side
to the longest wall, about 30" from the wall. Kneel in this space of the layout line with a notched trowel, according to the
to begin flooring installation. manufacturerโs directions. Take care not to obscure the layout
line with adhesive.
3 4
Apply wood glue to the grooved end of each piece as you Install the first row of flooring with the edge of the tongues
install it to help joints stay tight. Do not apply glue to the long directly over the chalk line. Make sure end joints are tight,
sides of boards. then wipe up any excess glue immediately. At walls, leave a
1
โ2" space to allow for expansion of the wood. This gap will be
covered by the baseboard and base shoe.
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5 6
For succeeding rows, insert the tongue into the groove After youโve installed three or four rows, use a mallet
of the preceding row, and pivot the flooring down into the and scrap piece of flooring to gently tap boards together,
adhesive. Gently slide the tongue and groove ends together. At closing up the seams. All joints should fit tightly.
walls, use a hammer and a flooring pull bar to draw together
the joints on the last strip (inset).
7 8
Use a cardboard template to fit boards in irregular areas. Bond the flooring to the adhesive by rolling it with a heavy
Cut cardboard to match the space, and allow for a 1โ2" floor roller. Roll the flooring within 3 hours of the adhesive
expansion gap next to the wall. Trace the template outline on application. Work in sections, and finish by installing the
a board, then cut it to fit using a jig saw. Finish layering strips flooring in the section between your starting line and the wall.
over the entire floor.
Hardwood โ 95
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โ Installing a Decorative Medallion
If anything is more beautiful under your feet than Ready-made hardwood medallions, such as the one
a newly installed hardwood floor, itโs a decorative shown in this project, are relatively easy to install, and
centerpiece that complements the rest of the surface. provide a focal point for the entire room.
โ How to Install a Decorative Medallion
1 2
Place the medallion on the floor where you want it installed. Nail the installation jig to the floor so the opening is aligned
Draw a line around the medallion onto the floor. with the outline you drew in the previous step. Drive the nails
into joints in the floor.
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3 4
Using the router bit that came with the medallion, place the Use a pry bar to remove the flooring inside the hole. Remove
bearing of the router bit on the inside edge of the jig opening all nails. Dry-fit the medallion to ensure it fits. Remove the jig
and make a 1โ4"-deep cut. Remove any exposed nails or staples. and fill nail holes with wood putty.
Make repeated passes with the router, gradually increasing the
depth.
Apply urethane flooring adhesive to
5 the subfloor where the hardwood was
removed. Spread the adhesive with a
trowel. Set the medallion in place and
push it firmly into the adhesive so itโs level
with the surrounding floor.
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Laminate
L aminate flooring comes in a floating system that is
simple to install, even if you have no experience
with other home-improvement projects. You may
do in a single weekend. Buy the manufactured planks
at a home-improvement or flooring store and install
laminate flooring with the step-by-step instructions
install a floating laminate floor right on top of plywood, offered in the following pages.
concrete slab, sheet vinyl, or hardwood flooring. Just
be sure to follow the manufacturerโs instructions.
The pieces are available in planks or squares in a
variety of different sizes, colors, and faux finishesโ Tools & Materials ์บ
including wood and ceramic. The part you see is
really a photographic print. Tongue-and-groove edges Circular saw Painterโs tape
lock pieces together, and the entire floor floats on the Underlayment Chisel
underlayment. At the end of this project there are a ยฝ" spacers Rubber mallet
few extra steps to take if your flooring manufacturer Tapping block Drawbar
recommends using glue on the joints. Scrap foam Finish nails
The rich wood tones of beautiful laminate Speed square Nail set strap clamps
planks may cause you to imagine hours of long, hard Manufacturer glue Threshold and screws
installation work, but this is a DIY project that you can
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โ How to Install a Floating Floor
1 2
To install the underlayment, start in one corner and unroll Working from the left corner of the room to right, set
the underlayment to the opposite wall. Cut the underlayment wall spacers and dry lay planks (tongue side facing the wall)
to fit, using a utility knife or scissors. Overlap the second against the wall. The spacers allow for expansion. If you are
underlayment sheet according to the manufacturerโs flooring a room more than 26 ft. long or wide, you need to buy
recommendations, and secure the pieces in place with appropriate-sized expansion joints. Note: Some manufacturers
adhesive tape. suggest facing the groove side to the wall.
3 4
Final uncut plank
ends here
Set a new plank right side up, on top of the previously laid Press painterโs tape along the cutline on the top of the plank
plank, flush with the spacer against the wall at the end run. to prevent chips when cutting. Score the line drawn in Step 3
Line up a speed square with the bottom plank edge and trace with a utility knife. Turn the plank over and extend the pencil
a line. Thatโs the cutline for the final plank in the row. line to the backside.
(continued)
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5 6
Clamp the board face down and rigid foam insulation or To create a tight fit for the last plank in the first row, place
plywood to a work table. The foam reduces chipping. Clamp a a spacer against the wall and wedge one end of a drawbar
speed square on top of the plank, as though you are going to between it and the last plank. Tap the other end of the drawbar
draw another line parallel to the cutlineโuse this to eye your with a rubber mallet or hammer. Protect the laminate surface
straight cut. Place the circular sawโs blade on the waste side of with a thin cloth.
the actual cutline.
7 8
Continue to lay rows of flooring, making sure the joints are To fit the final row, place two planks on top of the last
staggered. This prevents the entire floor from relying on just a course; slide the top plank up against the wall spacer. Use the
few joints, which keeps the planks from lifting. Staggering also top plank to draw a cutline lengthwise on the middle plank.
stengthens the floor, because the joints are shorter and more Cut the middle plank to size using the same method as in
evenly distributed. Step 3, just across the grain. The very last board must be cut
lengthwise and widthwise to fit.
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โ How to Work Around Obstacles
1 2
Marking outside
edge of the pipe
Mark indicates
right outside edge
of the pipe
Position a plank end against the spacers on the wall next to Once the plank is snapped into the previous row,
the obstacle. Use a pencil to make two marks along the length position the plank end against the obstacle. Make two marks
of the plank, indicating the points where the obstacle begins with a pencil, this time on the end of the plank to indicate
and ends. where the obstacle falls along the width of the board.
3 4
Use a speed square to extend the four lines. The space at Install the plank by locking the tongue-and-groove joints
which they intersect is the part of the plank that needs to be with the preceding board. Fit the end piece in behind the pipe
removed to make room for the obstacle to go through it. Use or obstacle. Apply manufacturer-recommended glue to the cut
a drill with a Forstner bit, or a hole saw the same diameter as edges, and press the end piece tightly against the adjacent
the space within the intersecting lines, and drill through the plank. Wipe away excess glue with a damp cloth.
plank at the X. Youโll be left with a hole; extend the cut to the
edges with a jig saw.
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โ How to Install Laminate Flooring Using Adhesive
1 2
Dry-fit each row, then completely fill the groove of the plank Close the gaps between end joints and lengthwise joints,
with the glue supplied or recommended by the manufacturer. using a rubber mallet and block to gently tap the edge or end
of the last plank. Use a drawbar for the last planks butted up to
a wall. Wipe away excess glue in the joints with a damp cloth
before it dries.
3 4
New floor Floor in
adjacent room
Transition
Rent 6 to 10 strap clamps to hold a few rows of planks Install transition thresholds at room borders where the
together as adhesive dries (about an hour). Fit one end of the new floor joins another floor covering. These thresholds are
strap clamp over the plank nearest the wall, and the other end used to tie together dissimilar floor coverings, such as laminate
(the one with the ratchet lever) over the last plank. Use the floorings and wood or carpet. They may also be necessary to
ratchet to tighten straps until joints are snug. span a distance in height between flooring in one room and
the next.
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Installation Tips ์บ
Ripcut planks from the back side to avoid splintering the Place another piece of flooring next to the piece
top surface. For accurate straight cuts, mark the cut with marked for cutting to provide a stable surface for the foot
a chalk line. If your pencil line is not straight, double-check of the saw. Also, clamp a cutting guide to the planks at the
your tracingโyour wall may not be not perfectly straight, correct distance from the cutting line to ensure a straight
in which case you should cut along your hand-drawn cut.
pencil line.
If you need to cut a plank to fit snugly against another plank or a wall with an obstacle in the middle, such as a heat
vent, measure in to the appropriate cutline to fit the board flush with the adjacent board or wall (on the other side of the
obstacle). Draw a line across the plank in this location. Then measure the obstacle and transfer those measurements to
the plank. Drill a starter hole just large enough to fit your jig saw blade into it. Cut the plank along the drawn lines, using a
jig saw. Set the board in place by locking the tongue-and-groove joints with the preceding board.
Laminate โ 103
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Parquet
F or a hardwood floor with greater design appeal,
consider installing a parquet floor. It offers more
visual interest than strip flooring without sacrificing
be very rewarding: Parquet can be used to create
shapes and decorations not possible with other wood
flooring.
the beauty and elegance of wood. Parquet comes in The finger block pattern is one of the most widely
a variety of patterns and styles to create geometric available parquet coverings and also one of the least
designs. It can range from elaborate, custom-designed expensive. The configuration of perpendicular strips of
patterns on the high end, to the more common wood emphasizes the different grains and natural color
herringbone pattern, to the widely available and less variations.
expensive block design.
Parquet has experienced a radical transformation
over the years. A few years ago, each individual piece
of parquet was hand-cut and painstakingly assembled Tools & Materials ์บ
piece by piece. Today, parquet is prefabricated so the
individual pieces making up the design are available as Tape measure Putty knife
single tiles, which not only has reduced the cost, but Chalk line Rubber mallet
has made the flooring easier to install. Carpenterโs square 100- to 150-pound
Many types and designs of parquet floors are Parquet flooring floor roller
available, from custom-made originals to standard Adhesive Jig saw
patterns, but they are all installed the same wayโ Notched trowel Solvent
set in adhesive on a wood subfloor. The effort can
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โ How to Install Parquet Flooring
1 2
Mark the centerpoint of each wall. Snap chalk lines Lay out a dry run of panels from the center point along the
between the marks on opposite walls to establish your reference lines to adjacent walls. If more than half of the last
reference lines. Use the 3-4-5 triangle method to check the panel needs to be cut off, adjust the lines by half the width of
lines for squareness (see page 83). the panel. Snap new working lines, if necessary.
3 4
Put enough adhesive on the subfloor for your first panel, Place the first panel on the adhesive so two sides are
using a putty knife. Spread the adhesive into a thin layer with a flush with the working lines. Take care not to slide or twist the
notched trowel held at a 45ยฐ angle. Apply the adhesive right up panel when setting it into place. This panel must be positioned
to the working lines, but do not cover them. correctly to keep the rest of your floor square.
(continued)
Parquet โ 105
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5 6
Apply enough adhesive for six to eight panels and spread it Set the next panel in place by holding it at a 45ยฐ angle and
with a notched trowel. locking the tongue-and-groove joints with the first panel.
Lower the panel onto the adhesive without sliding it. Install
remaining panels the same way.
7 8
After every six to eight panels are installed, tap them For the last row, align panels over the top of the last
into the adhesive with a rubber mallet. installed row. Place a third row over the top of these, with the
sides butted against 1โ2" spacers along the wall. Draw a line
along the edge of the third panels onto the second row, cut the
panels at the marks, and install.
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9 10
To work around corners or obstacles, align a panel over Within 4 hours of installing the floor, roll the floor with a 100-
the last installed panel, then place another panel on top of it to 150-pound floor roller. Wait at least 24 hours before walking
as in step 8. Keep the top panel 1โ2" from the wall or obstacle on the floor again.
and trace along the opposite edge onto the second panel (top).
Move the top two panels to the adjoining side, making sure not
to turn the top panel. Make a second mark on the panel the
same way (bottom). Cut the tile with a jig saw and install.
โ How to Install Parquet with a Diagonal Layout
1 2
Establish perpendicular working lines following Step 1 Lay out a dry run of tiles along a diagonal line. Adjust your
on page 104. Measure 5 ft. from the centerpoint along each starting point as necessary. Lay the flooring along the diagonal
working line and make a mark. Snap chalk lines between the 5 line using adhesive, following the steps for installing parquet
ft. marks. Mark the centerpoint of these lines, then snap a chalk (pages 104 to 106). Make paper templates for tile along walls
line through the marks to create a diagonal reference line. and in corners. Transfer the template measurements to tiles,
and cut to fit.
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Resilient Sheet Vinyl
P reparing a perfect underlayment is the most
important phase of resilient sheet vinyl
installation. Cutting the material to fit the contours
Tools & Materials ์บ
Linoleum knife Heat gun
of the room is a close second. The best way to
Framing square โ16" V-notched trowel
1
ensure accurate cuts is to make a cutting template.
Compass Straightedge
Some manufacturers offer template kits, or you
Scissors Vinyl flooring
can make one by following the instructions on the
Non-permanent Masking tape
opposite page. Be sure to use the recommended
felt-tipped pen Heavy butcher or brown
adhesive for the sheet vinyl you are installing. Many
Utility knife wrapping paper
manufacturers require that you use their glue for
Straightedge Duct tape
installation. Use extreme care when handling the
1
โ4" V-notched trowel Flooring adhesive
sheet vinyl, especially felt-backed products, to avoid
J-roller โ8" staples
3
creasing and tearing.
Stapler Metal threshold bars
Flooring roller Nails
Chalk line
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โ Tools for Resilient Floors
D
A E
B
C
G
F L
I
J K
H
M
Tools for resilient flooring include: a heat gun (A), J-roller (B), floor roller (C), framing square (D), sponge (E), hammer (F),
notched trowel (G), stapler (H), linoleum knife (I), utility knife (J), wallboard knife (K), chalk line (L), straightedge (M).
โ Buying & Estimating
Perimeter-bond Dry-back tile
flooring
Full-spread
sheet vinyl
Self-adhesive tile
Resilient sheet vinyl comes in full-spread and perimeter- Resilient tile comes in self-adhesive and dry-back styles.
bond styles. Full-spread sheet vinyl has a felt-paper backing Self-adhesive tile has a pre-applied adhesive protected by
and is secured with adhesive that is spread over the floor wax paper backing that is peeled off as the tiles are installed.
before installation. Perimeter-bond flooring, identifiable by its Dry-back tile is secured with adhesive spread onto the
smooth, white PVC backing, is laid directly on underlayment underlayment before installation. Self-adhesive tile is easier to
and is secured by a special adhesive spread along the edges install than dry-back tile, but the bond is less reliable. Donโt use
and seams. additional adhesives with self-adhesive tile.
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Installation Tips ์บ
Sweep and vacuum the underlayment thoroughly before installing resilient flooring to ensure a smooth, flawless finish
(left). Small pieces of debris can create noticeable bumps in the flooring (right).
Handle resilient sheet vinyl carefully to avoid creasing or tearing. Working with a helper can help prevent costly
mistakes. Make sure the sheet vinyl is at room temperature before you handle it.
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โ How to Make a Cutting Template
1 2
Place sheets of heavy butcher paper or brown wrapping Follow the outline of the room, working with one sheet
paper along the walls, leaving a 1โ8" gap. Cut triangular holes in of paper at a time. Overlap the edges of adjoining sheets by
the paper with a utility knife. Fasten the template to the floor about 2" and tape the sheets together.
by placing masking tape over the holes.
3 4
To fit the template around pipes, tape sheets of paper on Transfer the measurement to a separate piece of paper.
either side. Measure the distance from the wall to the center of Use a compass to draw the pipe diameter on the paper, then
the pipe, then subtract 1โ8". cut out the hole with scissors or a utility knife. Cut a slit from
the edge of the paper to the hole.
5 6
Fit the hole cutout around the pipe. Tape the hole template When completed, roll or loosely fold the paper template for
to the adjoining sheets. carrying.
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โ How to Install Perimeter-bond Sheet Vinyl
1 2
Unroll the flooring on any large, flat, clean surface. To For two-piece installations, overlap the edges of the sheets
prevent wrinkles, sheet vinyl comes from the manufacturer by at least 2". Plan to have the seams fall along the pattern
rolled with the pattern-side out. Unroll the sheet and turn it lines or simulated grout joints. Align the sheets so the pattern
pattern-side up for marking. matches, then tape the sheets together with duct tape.
3 4
Position the paper template over the sheet vinyl and tape Remove the template. Cut the sheet vinyl with a sharp
it in place. Trace the outline of the template onto the flooring linoleum knife or a utility knife with a new blade. Use a
using a non-permanent felt-tipped pen. straightedge as a guide for making longer cuts.
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5 6
Cut holes for pipes and other permanent obstructions. Cut Roll up the flooring loosely and transfer it to the installation
a slit from each hole to the nearest edge of the flooring. area. Do not fold the flooring. Unroll and position the sheet
Whenever possible, make slits along pattern lines. vinyl carefully. Slide the edges beneath undercut door casings.
7 8
Cut the seams for two-piece installations using a Remove both pieces of scrap flooring. The pattern should
straightedge as a guide. Hold the straightedge tightly against now run continuously across the adjoining sheets of flooring.
the flooring, and cut along the pattern lines through both
pieces of vinyl flooring.
(continued)
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9 10
Fold back the edges of both sheets. Apply a 3" band of Lay the seam edges one at a time onto the adhesive.
multipurpose flooring adhesive to the underlayment or old Make sure the seam is tight, pressing the gaps together with
flooring, using a 1โ4" V-notched trowel or wallboard knife. your fingers, if needed. Roll the seam edges with a J-roller or
wallpaper seam roller.
11 12
Apply flooring adhesive underneath flooring cuts at pipes If youโre applying flooring over a wood underlayment,
or posts and around the entire perimeter of the room. fasten the outer edges of the sheet with 3โ8" staples driven
Roll the flooring with the roller to ensure good contact with every 3". Make sure the staples will be covered by the
the adhesive. base molding.
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โ How to Install Full-spread Sheet Vinyl
1 2
Cut the sheet vinyl using the techniques described on Pull back half of the flooring, then apply a layer of flooring
pages 130 and 131 (steps 1 to 5), then lay the sheet vinyl into adhesive over the underlayment or old flooring using a 1โ4"
position, sliding the edges under door casings. V-notched trowel. Lay the flooring back onto the adhesive.
3 4
The roller creates a stronger bond and eliminates air Measure and cut metal threshold bars to fit across
bubbles. Fold over the unbonded section of flooring, apply doorways. Position each bar over the edge of the vinyl flooring
adhesive, then replace and roll the flooring. Wipe up any and nail it in place.
adhesive that oozes up around the edges of the vinyl, using a
damp rag.
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Rubber Roll
O nce a mark of restaurants and retailers, sheet rubber
flooring has become an option for homeowners as
well. Itโs resilient, durable, and stable, holding up well
To install rubber sheet flooring on top of wood,
use only exterior-grade plywood, one side sanded. Do
not use lauan plywood, particleboard, chipboard, or
under the heaviest and most demanding use. Better still, hardboard. Make sure the surface is level, smooth,
itโs comfortable to walk on and easy to maintain. and securely fastened to the subfloor.
The durability and resilience of rubber provide
benefits in two ways. First, the flooring takes just
about any kind of use without showing damage.
Second, it absorbs shock in proportion to its thickness. Tools & Materials ์บ
Heavier rubber floors help prevent fatigue, making
them comfortable for standing, walking, and even Adhesive Mineral spirits
strenuous exercise. Chalk line Notched trowel
Many new flooring products are made from Cleaning supplies Painterโs tape
recycled rubber, which saves landfill space and Craft/utility knife Straightedge
reduces the consumption of new raw materials. Flat-edged trowel Weighted roller
This is one place a petroleum-based product is Measuring tape
environmentally friendly.
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โ How to Install a Rubber Roll
1 2
Measure the longest wall in the room; this is where you Position the first sheet against the longest wall, and square
will place the first roll. Cut the roll to length, leaving a few extra it with the room. Cut the second length of material, and
inches at each end. This lets you cut the ends accurately once position it to overlap with the first roll by 1 to 1ยฝ inches at the
the material has relaxed. seams. Repeat this process until the rolls cover the room from
end to end. Note: Allow the cut rolls to relax in position for at
least 2 hours before you begin seaming and gluing. Then use
one of the following methods for creating clean, straight seams.
3 4
For materials that are 4mm to 6mm thick, place a 4-inch Using a straightedge and craft knife, cut along the chalk
wide scrap of material under the seam area. Using a straight line. The cut must be perfectly straight. Then lower the second
edge and a craft knife with a new razor blade, hold the knife roll into place and butt it against the first roll. Do not try to
straight up and down and slice through both pieces in one cut. compress or stretch the material. Use these methods to
Tip: For materials that are 9mm thick or more, snap a chalk line complete all the seams. Once you are finished, the rolls should
on the first roll where the seam should be. Align the leading be ready to fasten in place. Many adhesives are available,
edge of the second roll with the chalk line. Lift only the edge of but not all are compatible. Use only the type of adhesive
the second roll. recommended by the manufacturer.
(continued)
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5 6
Lift the first roll lengthwise, halfway back from the wall. When you apply adhesive, use only as much as you can
Using the method recommended by the manufacturer, apply apply and roll at one time. The average working time is about
adhesive to the underlayment and spread it with a notched 30 minutes at 70ยฐF and 50% relative humidity. Trowels have
trowel or other approved tool. limited useful lives, too. Use a new one for each container
of adhesive.
7 8
Lower the roll slowly onto the adhesive, making sure not Roll the floor immediately with a 100-pound roller to squeeze
to allow any air to become trapped underneath. Never leave out any trapped air and maximize contact between the roll and
adhesive ridges or puddles; they will become visible on the adhesive. With each pass of the roller, overlap the previous
the surface. pass by half. Roll the width first, then the length, and re-roll
after 30 minutes.
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9 10
Fold back the second half of the first roll, and the first half Continue the process, rolling each section as soon as the
of the second roll. Apply and spread the adhesive as before. material is set in the adhesive. If you get adhesive on the top
Spread the adhesive at a 90-degree angle to the seams. This surface, clean it off quickly with dilute mineral spirits.
will reduce the chance of having adhesive squeeze up through
the seams.
11 12
Hand-roll all seams after the entire floor has been rolled. If Give the adhesive at least 24 hours to cure, then lay a
you see gaps in the seams, hold them together temporarily straight edge along the uncut ends of the rolls and trim them
with painterโs tape. For the thinnest materials, you may want carefully with a craft knife. The very ends should be covered by
to weigh down the seams until they are fully set. Long boxes of baseboard and base shoe.
trimwork are useful for this job.
Rubber Roll โ 119
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Resilient Tile
A s with any tile installation, resilient tile requires
carefully positioned layout lines. Before
committing to any layout and applying tile, conduct a
throughout the installation. You can also use the
quarter-turn method, in which each tile has its pattern
grain running perpendicular to that of adjacent
dry run to identify potential problems. tiles. Whichever method you choose, be sure to be
Keep in mind the difference between reference consistent throughout the project.
lines (see opposite page) and layout lines. Reference
lines mark the center of the room and divide it into
quadrants. If the tiles donโt lay out symmetrically along Tools & Materials ์บ
these lines, youโll need to adjust them slightly, creating
layout lines. Once layout lines are established, Tape measure Heat gun
installing the tile is a fairly quick process. Be sure to Chalk line Resilient tile
keep joints between the tiles tight and lay the tiles Framing square Flooring adhesive (for
square. Utility knife dry-back tile)
Tiles with an obvious grain pattern can be โ16" notched trowel
1
laid so the grain of each tile is oriented identically
Check for noticeable directional features, like the grain of
the vinyl particles. You can set the tiles in a running pattern so
the directional feature runs in the same direction (top), or in a
checkerboard pattern using the quarter-turn method (bottom).
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โ How to Make Reference Lines for Tile Installation
1 2
y
x
x
Position a reference line (X) by measuring along opposite Measure and mark the centerpoint of the chalk line.
sides of the room and marking the center of each side. Snap a From this point, use a framing square to establish a second
chalk line between these marks. reference line perpendicular to the first one. Snap the second
line (Y) across the room.
3 4
5'
4'
y 3'
x
Check the reference lines for squareness using the 3-4-5 Measure the distance between the marks. If the reference
triangle method. Measure along reference line X and make a lines are perpendicular, the distance will measure exactly
mark 3 ft. from the centerpoint. Measure from the centerpoint 5 ft. If not, adjust the reference lines until theyโre exactly
along reference line Y and make a mark at 4 ft. perpendicular to each other.
Resilient Tile โ 121
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โ How to Install Dry-backed Resilient Tile
1 2
Snap perpendicular reference lines with a chalk line. Dry- If you shift the tile layout, create a new line that is parallel
fit tiles along layout line Y so a joint falls along reference line X. to reference line X and runs through a tile joint near line X. The
If necessary, shift the layout to make the layout symmetrical or new line, X1, is the line youโll use when installing the tile. Use a
to reduce the number of tiles that need to be cut. different colored chalk to distinguish between lines.
3 4
y
y1
x
x1
Dry-fit tiles along the new line, X1. If necessary, adjust the If you adjusted the layout along X1, measure and make a
layout line as in steps 1 and 2. new layout line, Y1, thatโs parallel to reference line Y and runs
through a tile joint. Y1 will form the second layout line youโll
use during installation.
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5 6
Apply adhesive around the intersection of the layout lines Spread adhesive over most of the installation area, covering
using a trowel with 1โ16" V-shaped notches. Hold the trowel at a three quadrants. Allow the adhesive to set according to the
45ยฐ angle and spread adhesive evenly over the surface. manufacturerโs instructions, then begin to install the tile at the
intersection of the layout lines. You can kneel on installed tiles
to lay additional tiles.
7 8
B
A
When the first three quadrants are completely tiled, To cut tiles to fit along the walls, place the tile to be cut
spread adhesive over the remaining quadrant, then finish (A) face up on top of the last full tile you installed. Position a
setting the tile. 1
โ8"-thick spacer against the wall, then set a marker tile (B) on
top of the tile to be cut. Trace along the edge of the marker tile
to draw a cutting line.
(continued)
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Tip ์บ 9
To mark tiles for cutting around outside corners,
make a cardboard template to match the space,
keeping a 1โ8" gap along the walls. After cutting Cut tile to fit using a utility knife and straightedge. Hold the
the template, check to make sure it fits. Place the straightedge securely against the cutting line to ensure a
template on a tile and trace its outline. straight cut. Option: You can use a ceramic-tile cutter to make
straight cuts in thick vinyl tiles (see inset).
10 11
Install cut tiles next to the walls. If youโre precutting all tiles Continue installing tile in the remaining quadrants until
before installing them, measure the distance between the wall the room is completely covered. Check the entire floor. If you
and install tiles at various points in case the distance changes. find loose areas, press down on the tiles to bond them to the
underlayment. Install metal threshold bars at room borders
where the new floor joins another floor covering.
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โ How to Install Self-adhesive Resilient Tile
1 2
Once your reference lines are established, peel off the Begin installing tiles in the interior area of the quadrant.
paper backing and install the first tile in one of the corners Keep the joints tight between tiles..
formed by the intersecting layout lines. Lay three or more tiles
along each layout lines in the quadrant. Rub the entire surface
of each tile to bond the adhesive to the floor underlayment.
3 4
Finish setting full tiles in the first quadrant, then set the full Continue installing the tile in the remaining quadrants until
tiles in an adjacent quadrant. Set the tiles along the layout lines the room is completely covered. Check the entire floor. If you
first, then fill in the interior tiles. find loose areas, press down on the tiles to bond them to the
underlayment. Install metal threshold bars at room border
where the new floor joins another floor covering.
Resilient Tile โ 125
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Combination Tile
T his hybrid product combines the classic, refined
look of ceramic tile with the easy installation
of resilient flooring. Made to resemble a range of
warranties, promising that the tiles will not fade, stain,
crack, or wear through for many years. This confidence
translates to peace of mind for you. Consider these
hard materials, from slate to quarry tile to marble, products if you want to look beyond traditional choices.
combination tiles feel warmer and more comfortable
underfoot than ordinary ceramic tile.
Designs vary from brand to brand, but most
major manufacturers of resilient tile now offer these Tools & Materials ์บ
combination products. You can install them like
regular resilient tile, each placed tightly against the Tape measure Combination tile
next, or you can leave spaces between the squares and Chalk line Flooring adhesive
add groutโgiving it even more of the look and feel of Framing square Weighted roller
regular ceramic tile. Utility knife Joint sealer
With or without grout, combination tile is easy 1
โ16" notched trowel
to maintain. Some manufacturers offer generous
In kitchens and bathrooms, floor
coverings need to withstand heavy traffic,
frequent cleaning, and lots of moisture.
Ceramic tile meets these needs, but it
can also be difficult to install, itโs cold
underfoot, and unforgiving with dropped
dishes. Vinyl, in sheets or tiles, makes a
softer, warmer surface that is inexpensive
and relatively easy to install. But vinyl is
Clear protective vulnerable to scrapes and gouges, and
wear layer doesnโt last as long as ceramic tile. In
recent years, manufacturers have found
ways of using the best properties of both
materials in combination tiles. These are
Ceramic layer vinyl tiles covered with a thin layer of
ceramic composite. They can be installed
like regular vinyl tiles, with their edges
pushed together, or with spaces left for
grout.
Cushion layer
Resilient tile
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Combination Tile โ 127
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โ How to Install Combination Tile
1 2
Compound resilient tiles can be installed on a variety of Measure the outside edges of the room, and snap chalk
surfaces. Check the manufacturerโs instructions to make sure lines across the center. Dry-lay a row of tiles from the center to
your underlayment is recommended. It should be clean, dry, each wall (be sure to incorporate spacers). If the last row will
and free of dust, dirt, grease, and wax. Sweep, vacuum, and be less than one-fourth the width of one tile, adjust the center
damp-mop the surface before you begin. point to balance the layout.
3 4
Find the middle point on opposite walls, and snap chalk Starting at the intersection, dry-lay a row of tiles to one
lines between them. The intersection of these lines should wall. If the last tile will be less than one-quarter the width of a
be in the middle of the room. Check the intersecting lines for full tile, you may want to move the center point.
square, using the 3-4-5 method.
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5 6
Avoid positioning tile joints directly over underlayment Apply the recommended adhesive to one quadrant of
joints or seams in existing flooring. If this happens, reposition the center intersection and spread it with a notched trowel or
the chalk lines to offset joints by at least 3" or half the width other approved tool. Let it stand for the time specified by the
of one tile. Repeat the dry-laying test, adjusting the lines as manufacturer. Use only as much adhesive as you can cover
needed, until you have a definite starting point. during the working time allowed. Continue to work from the
center outward in each quadrant.
7 8
To work around obstacles, place the tile up against Within an hour after the tiles are set, roll the floor with a
the obstacle and mark for cut lines. Follow manufacturer weighted roller. Work in both directions, taking care not to push
instructions for cutting tile. any tiles out of place. Re-roll the floor before grouting the tiles
or applying a joint sealer.
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Bamboo Planks
I t looks like hardwood, and is available in traditional
tongue-and-groove form and in laminate planks. But
bamboo is not wood. Itโs really a grassโand one of the
in floating floors. In this project we show Teragren
Synergy Strand in Java (see Resources): thin, durable
planks that are glued to the underlayment.
most popular flooring materials today.
Bamboo flooring is made by shredding stalks of
the raw material, then pressing them together with Tools & Materials ์บ
a resin that holds the shreds in their finished shape.
Not only is bamboo a fast-growing and renewable Adhesive Moisture level meter
crop, the companies that make bamboo flooring Carpenterโs level Notched trowel
use binders with low emissions of volatile organic Carpenterโs square Rubber mallet
compounds (VOCs). The result is tough, economical, Chalk line Scrap lumber
and ecologically friendly. In other words, itโs just about Cleaning supplies Shims
perfect for flooring. Flat-edged trowel Straightedge
If you choose tongue-and-groove bamboo, the Marking pen or pencil Weighted roller
installation techniques are the same as for hardwoods. Measuring tape
Bamboo is also available as a snap-fit laminate for use
Tips for a Successful Installation ์บ
Bamboo plank flooring should be one
60ยฐ 70ยฐ
RECOMENDED of the last items installed on any new
TEMPERATURE
RANGE construction or remodeling project.
40% 60% All work involving water or moisture
RECOMENDED
HUMIDITY should be completed before floor
RANGE
installation. Room temperature and
humidity of installation area should
be consistent with normal, year-round
living conditions for at least a week
before installation. Room temperature
of 60 to 70ยบF and humidity range of 40
to 60% is recommended.
About Radiant heat: The subfloor
should never exceed 85ยบF. Check the
manufacturerโs suggested guidelines
for correct water temperature inside
heating pipes. Switch on the heating
unit three days before flooring
installation. Room temperature should
not vary more than 15ยบF year-round.
For glue-down installations, leave
the heating unit on for three days
following installation.
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Bamboo Planks โ 131
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โ How to Install Bamboo Planks
1 2
Give the bamboo time to adjust to installation conditions. Even though thin-plank bamboo is an engineered material,
Store it for at least 72 hours in or near the room where it will it can vary in appearance. Buy all planks from the same lot
be installed. Open the packages for inspection, but do not and batch number. Then visually inspect the planks to make
store the planks on concrete or near outside walls. sure they match. Use the same lighting as you will have in the
finished room.
3 4
Inspect the underlayment. Bamboo planks can be installed Make sure the underlayment is level. It should not change
on plywood or oriented strand board at least ยพ inch thick. by more than 1โ8 inch over 10 feet. If necessary, apply a floor
The underlayment must be structurally sound; wood surfaces leveler to fill any low places, and sand down any high spots.
should have no more than 12 percent moisture. Prevent squeaks by driving screws every 6 inches into the
subfloor below.
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5 6
Sweep, vacuum, and damp-mop the surface, then measure The planks should be perpendicular to the floor joists
all room dimensions. If the longest facing walls are parallel, below. Adjust your starting point if necessary. Snap a chalk line
begin installing the planks on one side of the room. For next to the longest wall. The distance from the wall should be
irregular shapes and uneven walls, establish a straight starting the same at both ends, leaving ยฝ inch for expansion.
line next to one long wall and work from there.
7 8
Lay the first course of planks with the tongue edge toward Once the starter row is in place, install the planks using
the wall. Align the planks with the chalk line. Hold the edge a premium wood flooring adhesive. Be sure to follow the
course in place with wedges, or by nailing through the tongue manufacturerโs instructions. Begin at the chalk line and apply
edge. This row will anchor the others, so make sure it stays enough adhesive to lay down one or two rows of planks.
securely in place. Spread the adhesive with a V-notched trowel at a 45-degree
angle. Let the adhesive sit for the specified time.
(continued)
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9 10
When the adhesive is tacky and ready to use, lay the first After you finish the first section, cover the next area with
section of bamboo planks. Set each plank in the adhesive by adhesive and give it time to become tacky. This slows down the
placing a clean piece of scrap lumber on top and tapping it project, but it prevents you from using more adhesive than you
down with a rubber mallet. Check the edge of each section to can useโand it allows the section you just finished to set up.
make sure it keeps a straight line.
11 12
When the adhesive is ready, lay down the next section of Continue applying adhesive and installing planks, one
planks. Fit the new planks tightly against the previous section, section at a time, to cover the entire floor. When adhesive gets
taking care not to knock the finished section out of alignment. on the flooring surface, wipe it off quickly.
If the planks have tongue-and-groove edges, fit them carefully
into place.
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13 14
At the edges and around any fixed objects, such as As you finish each section, walk across it a few times to
doorways or plumbing pipes, leave a ยฝ-inch gap for expansion. maximize contact between the planks and the adhesive. When
Use shims to maintain the gaps if needed. These spaces can all the planks are in place, clean the surface and use a clean
be covered with baseboards, base shoe, and escutcheons. weighted roller. Push the roller in several directions, covering
the entire surface many times.
15 16
In places that are difficult to reach with a roller, such as the Let the finished floor sit for at least 24 hours, then clean
edges of the room, lay down a sheet of protective material, the surface carefully and remove any spacers from the
such as butcher paper, and stack weights on the paper to expansion gaps. Finally, install the finishing trim.
press down on the planks.
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Cork Tile
C ork flooring has all kinds of benefits. It dampens
sound, resists static, insulates surfaces, and
provides visual warmth like no other floor covering.
a cork floor is installed and properly sealed, it can
withstand normal household use just as well as any
other material.
Cork is a renewable natural productโtree barkโthat
can be harvested once a decade without cutting down
the tree. Tools & Materials ์บ
Natural cork tiles complement most furnishings
and decorations, and can be found in every shade Tape measure Recommended flooring
from honey yellow to deep espresso brown. Left in Chalk line adhesive
its original color or stained, it has beautiful patterns Framing square Scrap block
that range from burls to spalting. Every tile is Utility knife Rubber mallet
different, which means no two installations will look Notched trowel Paint roller and tray
the same. Cork tile Joint sealer
The tiles may seem fragile, but they take on the Primer
strength of the underlayment below. In fact, once
Tips for a Successful Installation ์บ
Before you work with any cork flooring material, remove it from the package and leave it in the room where it will be
installed. This lets the material adjust to the roomโs temperature and humidity. Manufacturers recommend acclimating
cork for at least 72 hours.
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โ How to Install Cork Tile
1 2 3
If you plan to install the cork on Measure the outside edges of the If the last row will be less than one-
plywood underlayment or a similar room, and snap chalk lines across the fourth the width of one tile, adjust the
material, make sure the surface is clean center. Dry-lay a row of tiles from the center point to balance the layout.
and dry, with no more change in level center to each wall.
than 1โ8 inch over 10 feet. Fill any low
spots and sand down any high spots.
4 5 6
Apply a recommended adhesive, Cork adhesive needs to air out for Begin at the intersection of the
using the method specified by the 20 to 30 minutes before you can begin two center guidelines, and work on
manufacturer. Some adhesives are best laying the cork tiles on it. After that, the one quadrant at a time. Apply enough
applied with a paint roller, others with a working time is roughly one hour. Check adhesive to hold as many tiles as you
notched trowel. Put down only as much the time allowed on the adhesive you can place in the working time allowed.
adhesive as you can use in the time choose. Set the first tile in place, and check to
allowed. make sure the adhesive holds it firmly.
(continued)
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7 8
Cork tile colors and patterns will vary. Use this to your If the humidity is high during installation, fit the tiles
advantage by mixing batches for greater variety. together tightly so they wonโt pull apart in drier weather. To fit
each new tile in place, hold a piece of scrap lumber against the
edge and tap it gently with a rubber mallet.
9 10
Work from the center outward in each quadrant. As you To fit tile around an object, such as a plumbing pipe, cut a
complete each row, check to see that all edges are straight. If tile-sized piece of paper. Work the paper into the space, cutting
a row has gone out of line, remove as many tiles as necessary as needed until it fits. Then lay the paper on a tile and use it as
and start again. Itโs frustrating to make corrections now, but itโs a cutting guide. Patch wide cuts with scrap material.
difficult or impossible later.
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11 12
Like other natural materials, cork will expand and contract If your cork floor measures more than 30 feet in any
as the temperature and humidity change. To allow room for direction, install an expansion jointโeither in a continuous
varying conditions, leave a ยผ-inch gap between the finished surface or where the cork meets another flooring material. This
floor and all walls, thresholds, water pipes, and other vertical allows the cork to flex with changing conditions.
surfaces.
13 14
Once all the tiles are in place, vacuum the surface to After rolling the surface, clean it once more and apply
remove all dust. Make several passes across the entire surface a recommended sealer. The most common types are water-
with a 100-pound floor roller. Move the roller in different based polyurethane. Make sure the sealer gets in all joints so it
directions to press every tile down securely. Let the finished prevents moisture from entering and damaging the finished floor.
floor sit overnight, then roll it again. Allow the sealed floor to sit for another day before you use
it. Then you can install molding, trim, and other finishing pieces.
Cork Tile โ 139
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Recycled Rubber Tile
Y ou see it in commercial buildings, from office
towers to skating rinks. Itโs recycled rubber made
from ground-up tires. Sometimes itโs solid black, but
Tools & Materials ์บ
Adhesive Painterโs tape
most often it has one or two other colors blended in
Aviatorโs snips Scrap lumber
as small flecks. And these days, more people than ever
Butcher paper for Shims
are putting it in their homes.
template Straightedge
Used in basements, it takes the chill out of a
Carpenterโs square Weighted roller
concrete floor, making laundry rooms and workshops
Chalk line If you plan to use grout
more pleasant places to spend time. In mudrooms and
Cleaning supplies between the tiles:
breezeways, it stands up to heavy traffic and messy
Craft/utility knife Coarse sponge
conditions. It doesnโt work quite as well in kitchens,
Flat-edged trowel Grout sealer
because recycled rubber tends to be porous, which
Marking pen or pencil Grouting trowel
means it soaks up grease and oil. A rubber kitchen
Measuring tape Sanded grout
floor would quickly become slippery and might
Mineral spirits Tile spacers
develop unpleasant odors.
Notched trowel
If you want flooring that resists changing weather
conditions, withstands heavy traffic, and helps keep
materials out of the waste stream, recycled rubber is
an ideal choice.
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โ How to Install Recycled Rubber Tile
1 2
If you plan to install rubber tile on plywood underlayment Sand down high spots. Make sure the underlayment is
or a similar material, the surface must be level, with no more clean, smooth, and securely fastened to the subfloor. Check
change than 1โ8 inch over 10 feet. Fill any low spots. the manufacturerโs instructions to be sure the recommended
adhesive will work with your underlayment.
3 4
The best way to create a consistent appearance is to buy To allow room for changes in temperature and humidity,
all your tiles from the same lot and batch number. Even then, leave a ยผ-inch gap between the finished floor and all walls,
mix tiles from different boxes to prevent visible changes in the thresholds, water pipes, and other vertical surfaces.
finished result. Many tiles have arrows on the bottom so you
can align the patterns on top.
(continued)
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5 6
Measure the length and width of the room to be covered. Dry-lay a row of tiles in each direction until you reach all four
Find the center of each direction and snap a chalk line across walls. If the last tile needs to be cut narrower than one-quarter
the room. The intersection of these lines is the middle of the the width of a full tile, adjust the center point and test the
room. Check the lines for square, using the 3-4-5 method. layout again.
7 8
Starting at one corner of the center intersection, apply the Lay the first tile in the corner. Gently twist it into place and
adhesive recommended by the manufacturer and spread it press down on it to work out any trapped airโbut donโt try to
with a notched trowel. Let it sit for the recommended time, stretch or compress it. Check the edges to be sure the tile is
usually 30 minutes at 70ยฐF and 50% relative humidity. square to the guidelines.
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9 10
Working in one direction at a time, continue to lay tiles in Continue laying individual tiles, checking them for square
the adhesive. Stop every 30 minutes and roll the tiles with a and rolling them at regular intervals. If you get adhesive on the
weighted roller to squeeze out any trapped air and maximize top surface, clean it off quickly with dilute mineral spirits.
contact between the tile and the adhesive.
11 12
When you reach a wall, flip over the next tile. Place it on top At a door jamb, place a tile face up where it will go. Lean it
of the next-to-last tile and butt it against the wall. Make a mark against the jamb and mark the point where they meet. Move
across the back where it overlaps the previous tile. Move to a the tile to find the other cut line, and mark that as well. Flip the
work surface and cut the tile along that line. tile over, mark the two lines using a carpenterโs square, and cut
out the corner.
(continued)
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13 14
To fit tile around an object, such as a plumbing pipe, cut a Work from the center outward in each quadrant. As you
tile-sized piece of paper. Work the paper into the space, cutting complete each row, check to see that all edges are straight.
as needed until it fits. Then lay the paper on a tile and use it as Hand-roll all seams after you finish each row. If you see gaps in
a cutting guide. Patch wide cuts with scrap material. the seams, hold them together temporarily with painterโs tape
and then place weight on top.
15 16
After rolling the surface, give the adhesive at least 24 hours Install any trim pieces, such as baseboards, shoe base,
to cure. Foot traffic and rolling loads can cause permanent escutcheons, and thresholds.
indentations in the uncured adhesive and cause tiles to shift.
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Ceramic & Stone Tile
C eramic tile includes a wide variety of hard flooring
products made from molded clay. Although there
are significant differences between various types,
membrane, which is used to protect ceramic tile
and stone from movements caused by cracks in
concrete floors. Isolation membrane is used to cover
they are all installed using cement-based mortar as individual cracks, or it can be used to cover an
an adhesive and grout to fill the gaps between tiles. entire floor. Page 61 shows how to install isolation
These same techniques are used to install tiles cut membrane.
from natural stone, such as granite and marble. Many ceramic tiles have a glazed surface that
To ensure a long-lasting tile floor, youโll need protects the porous clay from staining. You should
a smooth, stable, and level subfloor (see page protect unglazed ceramic tile from stains and water
59). In addition, the underlayment must be solid. spots by periodically applying a coat of tile sealer.
Cementboard, or thinner fiber/cementboard, is the Keep dirt from getting trapped in grout lines by sealing
best underlayment since it has excellent stability them once a year.
and is unaffected by moisture. Cementboard is If you want to install trim tiles, consider their
manufactured exclusively for ceramic tile installation placement as you plan the layout. Some base-trim tile
(see page 60). In rooms where moisture is not a factor, is set on the floor, with its finished edge flush with the
exterior-grade plywood is an adequate underlayment. field tile. Other types are installed on top of the field
Itโs also less expensive. Another option is isolation tile, after the field tile is laid and grouted.
Ceramic & Stone Tile โ 145
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โ Ceramic & Stone Tile Tools & Materials
F B
C
K
A L E
D
H G
M
J
I
Tile tools include adhesive-spreading tools, cutting tools, and grouting tools. Notched trowels (A) for spreading mortar come with
notches of varying sizes and shapes. The size of the notch should be proportional to the size of the tile being installed. Cutting tools
include a tile cutter (B), tile nippers (C), hand-held tile cutter (D), and jig saw with carbide blade (E). Grouting tools include a grout
float (F), grout sponge (G), buff rag (H), and foam brush (I) for applying grout sealer. Other tile tools include spacers (J), available in
different sizes to create grout joints of varying widths; needlenose pliers (K), for removing spacers; rubber mallet (L), for setting tiles
into mortar; and caulk gun (M).
Tile materials include adhesives, grouts,
and sealers. Thin-set mortar (A), the most
A common floor-tile adhesive, is often
strengthened with latex mortar additive
(B). Grout additive (C) can be added to
floor grout (D) to make it more resilient and
B C
C B durable. Grout fills the spaces between
D
tiles and is available in pre-tinted colors to
match your tile. Silicone caulk (E) should
be used in place of grout where tile meets
A
another surface, like a bathtub. Use wall-
tile adhesive (F) for installing base-trim tile.
Grout sealer (G) and porous-tile sealer (H)
ward off stains and make maintenance
easier. (INSET) Trim and finishing materials
include base-trim tiles (A), bullnose
tiles (B), and doorway thresholds (C) in
thicknesses ranging from ยผ" to ยพ" to
match floor levels.
E
F
H
G
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โ How to Cut Ceramic & Stone Tile
1 2
For straight cuts, mark a cutting line on the tile with a pencil, Snap the tile along the scored line as directed by the tool
then place the tile in the cutter so the cutting wheel is directly manufacturer. Snapping the tile is usually accomplished by
over the line. While pressing down firmly on the wheel handle, depressing a lever on the tile cutter
run the wheel across the tile to score the surface. For a clean
cut, score the tile only once.
3 4
To cut curves, mark a cutting line on the tile face. Use the Use tile nippers to nibble away the scored portion of the tile.
scoring wheel of a hand-held tile cutter to score the cut line. To cut circular holes in the middle of a tile, score and cut the
Make several parallel scores, no more than 1โ4" apart, in the tile so it divides the hole in half, then remove waste material
waste portion of the tile. from each half of the circle.
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Option: To cut mosaic tiles, use a tile
cutter to score tiles in the row where the
cut will occur. Cut away excess strips of
mosaics from the sheet, using a utility
knife, then use a hand-held tile cutter to
snap tiles one at a time. Use tile nippers to
cut narrow portions of tiles after scoring.
Tip: Using Power Tools for Cutting ์บ
Tile saws, also called โwet sawsโ To make square notches, clamp Cut holes for plumbing stub-outs
because they use water to cool the tile down on a worktable, then and other obstructions by marking
blades and tiles, are used primarily use a jig saw with a tungsten-carbide the outline on the tile, then drilling
for cutting natural-stone tiles. blade to make the cuts. If you need around the edges using a ceramic
Theyโre also useful for quickly cutting to cut several notches, a wet saw is tile bit. Gently knock out the waste
notches in all kinds of hard tile. Wet more efficient. material with a hammer. The rough
saws are available for rent at tile edges of the hole will be covered by
dealers and rental shops. protective plates on fixtures called
escutcheons.
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โ Installing Ceramic Tile
Ceramic tile installation starts with the same steps
as installing resilient tile. You snap perpendicular Tools & Materials ์บ
reference lines and dry-fit tiles to ensure the best
1
โ4" square trowel Thin-set mortar
placement.
Rubber mallet Tile
When setting tiles, work in small sections so
Tile cutter Tile spacers
the mortar doesnโt dry before the tiles are set. Use
Tile nippers Grout
spacers between tiles to ensure consistent spacing.
Hand-held tile cutter Latex grout additive
Plan an installation sequence to avoid kneeling on set
Needlenose pliers Wall adhesive
tiles. Be careful not to kneel or walk on tiles until the
Grout float 2 ร 4 lumber
designated drying period is over.
Grout sponge Grout sealer
Soft cloth Tile caulk
Small paint brush Sponge brush
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โ How to Install Ceramic Tile
1 2
Make sure the subfloor is smooth, level, and stable. Fasten it in place with 11โ4" cementboard screws. Place
Spread thin-set mortar on the subfloor for one sheet of fiberglass-mesh wallboard tape over the seams. Cover the
cementboard. Place the cementboard on the mortar, keeping a remainder of the floor, following the steps on page 60.
1
โ4" gap along the walls.
3 4
Draw reference lines and establish the tile layout (see Set the first tile in the corner of the quadrant where the
page 83). Mix a batch of thin-set mortar, then spread the reference lines intersect. When setting tiles that are 8" square
mortar evenly against both reference lines of one quadrant, or larger, twist each tile slightly as you set it into position.
using a 1โ4" square-notched trowel. Use the notched edge of
the trowel to create furrows in the mortar bed.
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5
Using a soft rubber mallet, gently tap the central area of Variation: For large tiles or uneven stone, use a larger trowel
each tile a few times to set it evenly into the mortar. with notches that are at least 1โ2" deep.
6
Variation: For mosaic sheets, use a 3/16" V-notched trowel To ensure consistent spacing between tiles, place plastic
to spread the mortar and a grout float to press the sheets into tile spacers at the corners of the set tile. With mosaic sheets,
the mortar. Apply pressure gently to avoid creating an uneven use spacers equal to the gaps between tiles.
surface.
(continued)
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7 8
Position and set adjacent tiles into the mortar along the To make sure the tiles are level with one another, place a
reference lines. Make sure the tiles fit neatly against the straight piece of 2 ร 4 across several tiles, then tap the board
spacers. with a mallet.
9 10
Lay tile in the remaining area covered with mortar. Repeat Measure and mark tiles to fit against walls and into corners
steps 2 to 7, continuing to work in small sections, until you (see pages 137 to 138). Cut the tiles to fit. Apply thin-set mortar
reach walls or fixtures. directly to the back of the cut tiles, instead of the floor, using
the notched edge of the trowel to furrow the mortar
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11 12
Set the cut pieces of tile into position. Press down on the tile Measure, cut, and install tiles that require notches or curves
until each piece is level with adjacent tiles. to fit around obstacles, such as exposed pipes or toilet drains.
13 14
Carefully remove the spacers with needlenose pliers Apply mortar and set tiles in the remaining quadrants,
before the mortar hardens. completing one quadrant before starting the next. Inspect all
of the tile joints and use a utility knife or grout knife to remove
any high spots of mortar that could show through the grout.
(continued)
Ceramic & Stone Tile โ 153
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15 16
Install threshold material in doorways. If the threshold is too long for the doorway, Prepare a small batch of floor grout
cut it to fit with a jig saw or circular saw and a tungsten-carbide blade. Set the to fill the tile joints. When mixing grout
threshold in thin-set mortar so the top is even with the tile. Keep the same space for porous tile, such as quarry or natural
between the threshold as between tiles. Let the mortar set for at least 24 hours. stone, use an additive with a release
agent to prevent grout from bonding to
the tile surfaces.
17 18
Starting in a corner, pour the grout over the tile. Use a Use the grout float to remove excess grout from the surface
rubber grout float to spread the grout outward from the corner, of the tile. Wipe diagonally across the joints, holding the float
pressing firmly on the float to completely fill the joints. For best in a near-vertical position. Continue applying grout and wiping
results, tilt the float at a 60ยฐ angle to the floor and use a figure off excess until about 25 square feet of the floor has been
eight motion. grouted.
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19 20
Wipe a damp grout sponge diagonally over about 2 square Allow the grout to dry for about 4 hours, then use a soft
feet of the floor at a time. Rinse the sponge in cool water cloth to buff the tile surface and remove any remaining grout
between wipes. Wipe each area only once since repeated film.
wiping can pull grout back out of joints. Repeat steps 15 to 18
to apply.
21
Apply grout sealer to the grout lines, using a small sponge Variation: Use a tile sealer to seal porous tile, such as quarry
brush or sash brush. Avoid brushing sealer on to the tile tile or unglazed tile. Following the manufacturerโs instructions,
surfaces. Wipe up any excess sealer immediately. roll a thin coat of sealer over the tile and grout joints, using a
paint roller and extension handle.
Ceramic & Stone Tile โ 155
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โ How to Install Base Trim
1 2
Dry-fit the tiles to determine the best spacing. Grout lines in Leaving a 1โ8" expansion gap between tiles at corners, mark
base tile do not always align with grout lines in the floor tile. any contour cuts necessary to allow the coved edges to fit
Use rounded bullnose tiles at outside corners, and mark tiles together. Use a jig saw with a tungsten-carbide blade to make
for cutting as needed. curved cuts.
Begin installing base-trim tiles at an
3 inside corner. Use a notched trowel to
apply wall adhesive to the back of the tile.
Place 1โ8" spacers on the floor under each
tile to create an expansion joint.
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4 5
Press the tile onto the wall. Continue setting tiles, using Use a double-bullnose tile on one side of outside corners to
spacers to maintain 1โ8" gaps between the tiles and 1โ8" cover the edge of the adjoining tile.
expansion joints between the tiles and floor.
After the adhesive dries, grout the
6 vertical joints between tiles and apply
grout along the tops of the tiles to make
a continuous grout line. Once the grout
hardens, fill the expansion joint between
the tiles and floor with caulk.
Ceramic & Stone Tile โ 157
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Mosaic Glass Tile
M osaic tile is an excellent choice for smaller areas.
It requires the same preparation and handling as
larger tiles, with a few differences. Sheets of mosaic
tile are held together by a fabric mesh underneath. This
makes them more difficult to hold, place, and move.
They may not be square with your guidelines when you
first lay them down. And mosaic tiles will require many
more temporary spacers and much more grout.
A few cautions: Variations in color and texture
are just as likely with mosaic tile as with individual
tiles, so buy all your tile from the same lot and batch.
Mortar or mastic intended for ceramic tile may not
work with glass mosaic tile. Finally, if the finished
project will be exposed to the elements, make sure you
have adhesive and grout suitable for outdoor use.
Tools & Materials ์บ
Carpenterโs square Notched trowel
Chalk line Recommended adhesive
Cleaning supplies Rubber mallet
Coarse sponge Sanded grout
Craft/utility knife Scrap lumber
Grout sealer Straightedge
Marking pen or pencil Tile nippers
Measuring tape Tile spacers
โ How to Install Mosaic Tile
1 2
Clean and prepare the area as you would for individual tiles, Select a sheet of mosaic tile. Place several plastic spacers
with reference lines beginning in the center. Beginning at the within the grid so that the sheet remains square. Pick up the
center intersection, apply the recommended adhesive to one sheet of tiles by diagonally opposite corners. This will help you
quadrant. Spread it outward evenly with a notched trowel. hold the edges up so that you donโt trap empty space in the
Lay down only as much adhesive as you can cover in 10 to 15 middle of the sheet.
minutes.
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3 4
Gently press one corner into place on the adhesive. Slowly When you have placed two or three sheets, lay a scrap
lower the opposite corner, making sure the sides remain piece of flat lumber across the tops and tap the wood with a
square with your reference lines. Massage the sheet into the rubber mallet to set the fabric mesh in the adhesive, and to
adhesive, being careful not to press too hard or twist the sheet force out any trapped air.
out of position. Insert a few spacers in the outside edges of the
sheet you have just placed. This will help keep the grout lines
consistent.
5 6
At the outer edges of your work area, you will probably need After the adhesive has cured, usually 24 to 48 hours, apply
to trim one or more rows from the last sheet. If the space left grout as you would for individual tiles. With many more spaces,
at the edge is more than the width of a regular grout line, use mosaic tiles will require more grout. Follow the manufacturerโs
tile nippers to trim the last row that will fit. Save these leftover instructions for spreading and floating the grout. Clean up
tiles for repairs. using the instructions for individual tiles (see page 155).
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Installing Borders
B orders add instant appeal to any floor. They can
divide a floor into sections, or they can define
a particular area of flooring, such as a mosaic. You
A border catches the eye and brings a creative
element to the floor. Adding a border and using
different colors for the tiles within the border bring
can create a design inside the border by merely the above floor to life.
turning the tile at a 45ยฐ angle or installing decorative
tiles. Designs with borders should cover between
a quarter and half of the floor. If the design is too Tools & Materials ์บ
small, itโll get lost in the floor. If itโs too big, itโll be
distracting. Carpenterโs square Notched trowel
Youโll need to determine the size and location Chalk line Recommended adhesive
of your border on paper, then transfer your Cleaning supplies Rubber mallet
measurements onto the floor. A dry run with the Coarse sponge Sanded grout
border and field tile is still required to ensure a Craft/utility knife Scrap lumber
smooth layout. Grout sealer Straightedge
The tile is installed in three stages. The border is Marking pen or pencil Tile nippers
placed first, followed by outside field tile, then field Measuring tape Tile spacers
tile within the border.
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โ How to Lay Out Borders
1
Measure the length and width of the room in which youโll be installing the border.
2 3
Transfer the measurements onto paper by making a scale Determine the size of the border you want. Bordered
drawing of the room. Include the locations of cabinets, doors, designs should be between 1โ4 and 1โ2 the area of the room.
and furniture that will be in the room. Draw the border on transparency paper, using the same scale
as the room drawing.
(continued)
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4
Place the transparency of the border over the room drawing. Move it around to find the best layout. Tape the border
transparency in place over the room drawing. Draw perpendicular lines through the center of the border and calculate the distance
from the center lines to the border.
5 6
Transfer the measurements from the border transparency onto your floor, starting Lay out the border along the
with your center lines. Snap chalk lines to establish your layout for the border. reference lines in a dry run. Do a dry run
of the field tiles along the center lines
inside and outside of the border. Make
any adjustments, if necessary.
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โ How to Lay a Running-bond Tile Pattern
1 2
Start running-bond tile by dry-fitting tile to establish working reference lines. Starting at a point where the layout
Dry-fit a few tiles side by side using spacers. Measure the total width of the dry- lines intersect, spread thin-set mortar
fitted section. Use this measurement to snap a series of equally spaced parallel lines and lay the first row of tiles. Offset the
to help keep your tiles straight during installation. Running-bond layouts are most next row by a measurement thatโs equal
effective with rectangular tiles. to one-half the length of the tile plus
one-half the width of the grout line.
3
Continue setting tiles, filling one quadrant at a time. Use the parallel reference lines as guides to keep the rows straight.
Immediately wipe away any mortar that falls on the tiles. When finished, allow the mortar to cure, then grout and clean the tile (see
pages 154 to 155).
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โ How to Lay Hexagonal Tile
1
Snap perpendicular reference lines on the underlayment. Lay out three or four tiles in each direction along the layout lines.
Place plastic spacers between the tiles to maintain even spacing. Measure the length of this layout in both directions (A and B). Use
measurement A to snap a series of equally spaced parallel lines across the entire floor, then do the same for measurement B in the
other direction.
2 3
Apply dry-set mortar and begin Continue setting the tiles, using the grid layout and spacers to keep the tiles
setting tile the same way as with square aligned. Wipe off any mortar that falls onto the tile surface. When finished, allow the
tile (pages 150 to 153). Apply mortar mortar to set, and then apply grout between tiles.
directly to the underside of any tiles that
extend outside the mortar bed.
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โ How to Lay a Diagonal Pattern with a Perpendicular Border
1
Follow steps 1 to 6 on pages 161 to 162 to plan your border lay out in the room. Dry-fit border tiles with spacers in the planned
area. Make sure the border tiles are aligned with the reference lines. Dry-fit tiles at the outside corners of the border arrangement.
Adjust the tile positions as necessary to create a layout with minimal cutting. When the layout of the tiles is set, snap chalk lines
around the border tiles and trace along the edges of the outside tiles. Install the border tiles.
2 3
Draw diagonal layout lines at a 45ยฐ angle to the Use standard tile-setting techniques to set field tiles inside
perpendicular reference lines. the border. Kneel on a wide board to distribute your weight if
you need to work in a tiled area that has not cured overnight.
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Carpet
C arpet remains one of the most popular and versatile
of all floor coverings. Almost every home has wall-
to-wall carpet in at least a few rooms. Itโs available in
underneath that acts as a cushion, carpet can help
reduce โfloor fatigue.โ
Carpet absorbs more noise than most other floors,
an almost endless variety of colors, styles, and patterns. thereby reducing sound between rooms. It also serves
It can also be custom made to express a more personal as a natural insulator and decreases heat loss through
design. Most carpet is nylon based, although acrylic the floor. Wall-to-wall carpet can increase the R-value,
and polyester are also popular. Wool carpeting is more or insulation level, of a room.
formal and more expensive, but also quite popular. Carpet offers several universal design advantages.
Part of carpetโs appeal is its soft texture. Itโs With its non-skid surface, carpet helps reduce falls,
pleasant to walk onโespecially with bare feet, since which is important for people with limited mobility.
itโs soft and warm underfootโand is comfortable Unlike some hard floors, carpet produces no glare,
for children to play on. Because carpet has a pad which helps people with vision limitations.
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Dense plush carpet creates a feeling of relaxation thatโs right at home in private quarters.
Shag is still fashionable, as in this living
area. The carpet color matches the couch
and walls to create a monochromatic
palette in the room, allowing for texture to
take center stage.
Carpet โ 167
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โ Buying & Estimating Carpet
When choosing carpet, one thing to consider is color footage to be covered, then add 20 percent to cover
and pattern. Lighter shades and colors show dirt and trimming and seaming.
stains more readily, but they provide an open, spacious The type of carpet will dictate the type of pad
feel. Darker colors and multi-colored patterns donโt you should use. Check carpet sample labels for the
show as much dirt or wear, but they can also make a manufacturerโs recommendations. Since carpet and
room appear smaller. padding work in tandem to create a floor covering
The materials used in a carpet and its system, use the best pad you can afford that works
construction can affect the carpetโs durability. In with your carpet. In addition to making your carpet
high traffic areas, such as hallways and entryways, a feel more plush underfoot, the pad makes your floor
top-quality fiber will last longer. Carpet construction, quieter and warmer. A high-quality pad also helps
the way in which fibers are attached to the backing, reduce carpet wear.
impacts resistance to wear and appearance. Labels on the back of samples usually tell you the
Available widths of certain carpets may affect your fiber composition, the available widths (usually 12 or
buying decision; a roll thatโs wide enough to cover an 15 feet), what anti-stain treatments and other finishes
entire room eliminates the need for seaming. When were applied, and details of the product warranty.
seaming is unavoidable, calculate the total square
Tips for Evaluating Carpet ์บ
Fiber Type Characteristics
Nylon Easy to clean, very durable, good stain resistance; colors sometimes fade in direct sunlight.
Polyester Excellent stain resistance, very soft in thick cut-pile constructions; colors donโt fade in sunlight.
Olefin Virtually stain- and fade-proof, resists moisture and static; not as resilient as nylon or as soft as polyester.
Acrylic Resembles wool in softness and look, good moisture resistance; less durable than other synthetics.
Wool Luxurious look and feel, good durability and warmth; more costly and less stain-resistant than synthetics.
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โ Carpet Construction Cushion-
backed
The top surface of a carpet, called the pile, consists
of yarn loops pushed up through a backing material.
The loops are left intact or cut by the manufacturer,
depending on the desired effect. Most carpet sold today
is made from synthetic fibers, such as nylon, polyester,
and olefin, although natural wool carpet is still popular.
A good rule of thumb for judging the quality of a
carpet is to look at the pile density. Carpet with many
pile fibers packed into a given area will resist crushing,
repel stains and dirt buildup better, and be more
durable than carpet with low pile density.
Cushion-backed carpet has a foam backing bonded
to it, eliminating the need for additional padding.
Cushion-backed carpet is easy to install because it
does not require stretching or tackless strips. Instead,
it is secured to the floor with general-purpose adhesive,
much like full-spread sheet vinyl. Cushion-backed Loop-pile
carpet usually costs less than conventional carpet, but
itโs generally a lower-quality product.
Loop-pile carpet has a textured look created by
the rounded ends of the uncut yarn loops pushed
up through the backing. The loops can be arranged
randomly or they can make a distinct pattern, such as
herringbone. Loop pile is ideal for heavy-traffic areas
since loops are virtually impervious to crushing.
Velvet cut-pile carpet has the densest pile of any
carpet type. Itโs cut so the color remains uniform when
the pile is brushed in any direction. Velvets are well Velvet
suited to formal living spaces. cut-pile
Saxony cut-pile carpet, also known as plush, is
constructed to withstand crushing and matting better
than velvets. The pile is trimmed at a bevel, giving it a
speckled appearance.
Labels on the back of samples usually tell you the
fiber composition, the available widths (usually 12 or
15 feet), what anti-stain treatments and other finishes
were applied, and details of the product warranty.
Saxony
cut-pile
Examine the backing or โfoundationโ of the carpet. A tighter
grid pattern (left) usually indicates dense-pile carpet that will be
more durable and soil-resistant than carpet with looser pile (right).
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Planning & Layout ์บ
Sketch a scale drawing of the factory carpet roll and another drawing of the room to be carpeted. Use the drawings
to plan the cuts and determine how the carpet pieces will be arranged. In most large rooms, the installation will include
one large piece of carpet the same width as the factory roll and several smaller pieces that are permanently seamed to
the larger piece. When sketching the layout, remember that carpet pieces must be oversized to allow for precise seaming
and trimming. Your finished drawings will tell you the length of carpet you need to buy.
Nap slanting
away from eye
Nap slanting
toward eye
Keep pile direction consistent. Maintain patterns when seaming patterned carpet. Because of this
Carpet pile is usually slanted, which necessity, thereโs always more waste when installing patterned carpet. For
affects how the carpet looks from a pattern that repeats itself every 18", for example, each piece must be
different angles as light reflects off oversized 18" to ensure the pattern is aligned. Pattern repeat measurements
the surface. Place seamed pieces so are noted on carpet samples.
the pile faces the same direction.
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At seams, add an extra 3" to each At each wall, add 6" for each edge Closet floors are usually covered
piece when estimating the amount thatโs along the wall. This surplus will with a separate piece of carpet thatโs
of carpet youโll need. This extra be trimmed away when the carpet is seamed to the carpet in the main
material helps when cutting straight cut to the exact size of the room. room area.
edges for seaming.
Run
Rise
For stairs, add together the rise and run of each step to estimate the carpet needed for the stairway. Measure the width
of the stairway to determine how many strips you can cut from the factory roll. For a 3 ft.-wide stairway, for example, you
can cut three strips from a 12 ft.-wide roll, allowing for waste. Rather than seaming carpet strips together end to end,
plan the installation so the ends of the strips fall in the stair crotches (see page 197). When possible, try to carpet stairs
with a single carpet strip.
Carpet โ 171
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โ Carpet Tools & Materials
Installing carpet requires the use of some specialty
tools, most notably the knee kicker and power
stretcher. These tools are available at most rental
A
centers and carpet stores.
Other than the carpet itself, the pad is the most
important material in carpet installation. In addition
to making your carpet feel more comfortable, it helps
reduce sounds. The pad also helps keep warm air
from escaping through your floor, thereby keeping the
carpet warmer.
By cushioning the carpet fibers, the pad reduces
wear and extends the life of your carpet. Be sure to
use a quality pad.
E
Carpeting tools include: seam iron (A), power stretcher and
extensions (B), chalk line (C), edge trimmer (D), row-running C
knife (E), utility knife (F), stair tool (G), hammer (H), knee kicker D
(I), aviation snips (J), scissors (K), and stapler (L).
B
A C
E
D
Carpeting materials include: hot-glue seam tape (A), used to join carpet pieces together; duct tape (B), for seaming carpet pads;
double-sided tape (C), used to secure carpet pads to concrete; staples (D), used to fasten padding to underlayment; and tackless
strips (E), for securing the edges of stretched carpet.
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B
G
L
F H
I J K
D
C
A B
Carpet padding comes in several varieties, including: bonded urethane foam (A), cellular sponge rubber (B), grafted prime foam
(C), and prime urethane (D). Bonded urethane padding is suitable for low-traffic areas, while prime urethane and grafted prime
foam are better for high-traffic areas. In general, cut pile, cut-and-loop, and high-level loop carpets perform best with prime or
bonded urethane or rubber pads that are less than 7โ16" thick. For Berbers or other stiff-backed carpets, use 3โ8"-thick bonded
urethane foam or cellular sponge rubber. Foam padding is graded by density: the denser the foam, the better the pad. Rubber
padding is graded by weight: the heavier, the better.
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โ Using Carpet Tools
The knee kicker and power stretcher are the two most
important tools for installing carpet. They are used to
stretch a carpet smooth and taut before securing it
to tackless strips installed around the perimeter of a
room.
The power stretcher is the more efficient of the
two tools and should be used to stretch and secure
as much of the carpet as possible. The knee kicker is
used to secure carpet in tight areas where the power
stretcher canโt reach, such as closets.
A logical stretching sequence is essential to
good carpet installation. Begin by attaching the
carpet at a doorway or corner, then use the power
stretcher and knee kicker to stretch the carpet away
from the attached areas and toward the opposite
walls.
โ How to Use a Knee Kicker
1 2
A knee kicker (and power stretcher) has teeth that grab the Place the kicker head a few inches away from the wall
carpet foundation for stretching. Adjust the depth of the teeth to avoid dislodging the tackless strips, then strike the kicker
by turning the knob on the knee kicker head. The teeth should cushion firmly with your knee, stretching the carpet taut. Tack
be set deep enough to grab the carpet foundation without the carpet to the pins on the tackless strips to hold it in place.
penetrating to the padding.
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โ How to Use a Power Stretcher
1
Align the pieces of the power stretcher along the floor with the tail positioned at a point where the carpet is already secured and
the head positioned just short of the opposite wall. Fit the ends of the sections together.
2 3
Telescope one or more of the extension poles until the tail Adjust the teeth on the head so they grip the carpet
rests against the starting wall or block and the head is about 5" foundation (see step 1, opposite page). Depress the lever on
from the opposite wall. the head to stretch the carpet. The stretcher head should
move the carpet about 2".
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โ Installing Carpet Transitions
Doorways, entryways, and other transition areas
require special treatment when installing carpet.
Transition materials and techniques vary, depending
on the level and type of the adjoining flooring (see
photos, right).
For a transition to a floor thatโs either at the same
height or lower than the bottom of the carpet, attach
a metal carpet bar to the floor and secure the carpet
inside the bar. This transition is often used where
carpet meets a vinyl or tile floor. Carpet bars are sold
Metal carpet bar
in standard door-width lengths and in longer strips.
For a transition to a floor thatโs higher than the
carpet bottom, use tackless strips, as if the adjoining
floor surface was a wall. This transition is common
where carpet meets a hardwood floor.
For a transition to another carpet of the same
height, join the two carpet sections together with hot-
glue seam tape.
For a transition in a doorway between carpets of
different heights or textures, install tackless strips
and a hardwood threshold. Thresholds are available Tackless strip tuck-under
predrilled and ready to install with screws.
Tools & Materials ์บ
Hacksaw Straightedge
Marker Screwdriver
Utility knife Transition materials
Knee kicker Wood block
Stair tool
Hot-glue seam tape
Hardwood threshold
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โ How to Make Transitions with Metal Carpet Bars
1 2 3
Measure and cut a carpet bar to fit Roll out, cut, and seam the carpet. Use a knee kicker to stretch the carpet
the threshold, using a hacksaw. Nail the Fold the carpet back in the transition snugly into the corner of the carpet bar.
carpet bar in place. In doorways, the area, then mark it for trimming. The Press the carpet down onto the pins
upturned metal flange should lie directly edge of the carpet should fall 1โ8" to 1โ4" with a stair tool. Bend the carpet bar
under the center of the door when itโs short of the corner of the carpet bar so flange down over the carpet by striking it
closed. it can be stretched into the bar. with a hammer and a block of wood.
โ How to Make Transitions with Tackless Strips
1 2 3
Install a tackless strip, leaving a gap Use a straightedge and utility knife Tuck the edge of the carpet into the
equal to 2โ3 the thickness of the carpet to trim the excess carpet. Stretch the gap between the tackless strip and the
for trimming. Roll out, cut, and seam carpet toward the strip with a knee existing floor, using a stair tool.
the carpet. Mark the edge of the carpet kicker, then press it onto the pins of the
between the tackless strip and the tackless strip.
adjoining floor surface about 1โ8" past the
point where it meets the adjacent floor.
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โ Installing Carpet
The easiest way to secure carpeting is to install use wider tackless strips that are attached to the
tackless strips around the perimeter of the room. Once concrete with masonry nails. Be careful when
the strips are installed, carpet padding is rolled out as handling the tackless strips, since the sharp pins can
a foundation for the carpet. be dangerous. Where the carpet meets a doorway
Standard ยพ"-wide tackless strips are adequate for or another type of flooring, install the appropriate
securing most carpet. For carpets laid on concrete, transitions.
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โ How to Install Tackless Strips
1 2
Starting in a corner, nail tackless strips to the floor, keeping Use aviation snips to cut tackless strips to fit around
a gap between the strips and the walls thatโs about 2โ3 the radiators, door moldings, and other obstacles.
thickness of the carpet. Use plywood spacers. Angled pins on
the strip should point toward the wall.
Variation: On concrete, use wider tackless strips. Using a masonry bit, drill pilot holes through the strips and into the floor. Then
fasten the strips with 11โ2" fluted masonry nails.
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โ How to Install Carpet Padding
1 2
Roll out enough padding to cover the entire floor. Make Use a utility knife to cut away excess padding along the
sure the seams between the padding are tight. If one face of edges. The padding should touch, but not overlap, the tackless
the padding has a slicker surface, keep the slick surface face up, strips.
making it easier to slide the carpet over the pad during installation.
3
Tape the seams together with duct tape, then staple the Variation: To fasten padding to a concrete floor, apply double-
padding to the floor every 12". sided tape next to the tackless strips, along the seams, and in
an โXโ pattern across the floor.
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โ How to Cut & Seam Carpet
1 2
Position the carpet roll against one wall, with its loose end At the opposite wall, mark the back of the carpet at each
extending up the wall about 6", then roll out the carpet until it edge about 6" beyond the point where the carpet touches the
reaches the opposite wall. wall. Pull the carpet back away from the wall so the marks are
visible.
Variation: When cutting loop-pile carpet, avoid severing the loops by cutting it from the top side, using a row-running knife. Fold
the carpet back along the cut line to part the pile (left) and make a crease along the part line. Lay the carpet flat and cut along the
part in the pile (right). Cut slowly to ensure a smooth, straight cut.
(continued)
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3 4
Snap a chalk line across the back of the carpet between the Next to walls, straddle the edge of the carpet and nudge it
marks. Place a scrap piece of plywood under the cutting area with your foot until it extends up the wall by about 6" and is
to protect the carpet and padding from the knife blade. Cut parallel to the wall.
along the line, using a straightedge and utility knife.
5 6
At the corners, relieve buckling by slitting the carpet with a Using your seaming plan as a guide, measure and cut fill-in
utility knife, allowing the carpet to lie somewhat flat. Make sure pieces of carpet to complete the installation. Be sure to include
that corner cuts do not cut into usable carpet. a 6" surplus at each wall and a 3" surplus on each edge that
will be seamed to another piece of carpet. Set the cut pieces
in place, making sure the pile faces in the same direction on all
pieces.
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7
Roll back the large piece of carpet on the side to be seamed, then use a chalk line to snap a straight seam edge about 2" from the
factory edge. Keep the ends of the line about 18" from the sides of the carpet where the overlap onto the walls causes the carpet
to buckle.
8 9
Using a straightedge and utility knife, carefully cut the On smaller carpet pieces, cut straight seam edges where
carpet along the chalk line. To extend the cutting lines to the the small pieces will be joined to one another. Donโt cut the
edges of the carpet, pull the corners back at an angle so they edges that will be seamed to the large carpet piece until after
lie flat, then cut the line with the straightedge and utility knife. the small pieces are joined together.
Place scrap wood under the cutting area to protect the carpet
while cutting.
(continued)
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10
Option: Apply a continuous bead of seam glue along the cut Plug in the seam iron and set it aside to heat up, then
edges of the backing at seams to ensure that the carpet will measure and cut hot-glue seam tape for all seams. Begin by
not fray. joining the small fill-in pieces to form one large piece. Center
the tape under the seam with the adhesive side facing up.
11
Set the iron under the carpet at one end of the tape until the adhesive liquifies, usually about 30 seconds. Working in 12"
sections, slowly move the iron along the tape, letting the carpet fall onto the hot adhesive behind it. Set weights at the end of the
seam to hold the pieces in place.
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12
Press the edges of the carpet together into the melted Variation: To close any gaps in loop-pile carpet seams, use a
adhesive behind the iron. Separate the pile with your fingers to knee kicker to gently push the seam edges together while the
make sure no fibers are stuck in the glue and the seam is tight, adhesive is still hot.
then place a weighted board over the seam to keep it flat while
the glue sets.
13
Continue seaming the fill-in pieces together. When the tape adhesive has dried, turn the seamed piece over and cut a fresh seam
edge as done in steps 7 and 8. Reheat and remove about 11โ2" of tape from the end of each seam to keep it from overlapping the
tape on the large piece.
(continued)
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14 15
Use hot-glue seam tape to join the seamed pieces to the If youโre laying carpet in a closet, cut a fill-in piece and join
large piece of carpet, repeating steps 10 through 12. it to the main carpet with hot-glue seam tape.
Tip ์บ Tip ์บ
At radiators, pipes, and other obstructions, cut slits To fit carpet around partition walls where the
in the carpet with a utility knife. Cut long slits from edges of the wall or door jamb meet the floor, make
the edge of the carpet to the obstruction, then cut diagonal cuts from the edge of the carpet at the
short cross-slits where the carpet will fit around center of the wall to the points where the edges of
the obstruction. the wall meet the floor.
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โ How to Stretch & Secure Carpet
1 2
Before stretching the seamed carpet, read through this If the doorway is close to a corner, use the knee kicker to
entire section and create a stretching sequence similar to the secure the carpet to the tackless strips between the door and
one shown here. Start by fastening the carpet at a doorway the corner. Also secure a few feet of carpet along the adjacent
threshold using carpet transitions (see pages 182 to 183). wall, working toward the corner.
3
Use a power stretcher to stretch the carpet toward the wall opposite the door. Brace the tail with a length of 2 ร 4 placed across
the doorway. Leaving the tail in place and moving only the stretcher head, continue stretching and securing the carpet along the
wall, working toward the nearest corner in 12" to 24" increments.
(continued)
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4 5
As you stretch the carpet, secure it onto the tackless strips With the power stretcher still extended from the doorway
with a stair tool and hammer. to the opposite side of the room, knee-kick the carpet onto the
tackless strips along the closest wall, starting near the corner
closest to the stretcher tail. Disengage and move the stretcher
only if itโs in the way.
6
Reposition the stretcher so its tail is against the center of the wall you just secured. Stretch and secure the carpet along the
opposite wall, working from the center toward a corner. If thereโs a closet in an adjacent wall, work toward that wall, not the closet.
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7
Use the knee kicker to stretch and secure the carpet inside the closet (if any). Stretch and fasten the carpet against the back
wall first, then do the side walls. After the carpet in the closet is stretched and secured, use the knee kicker to secure the carpet
along the walls next to the closet. Disengage the power stretcher only if itโs in the way.
8 9
Return the head of the power stretcher to the center of the Reposition the stretcher to secure the carpet along the last
wall. Finish securing carpet along this wall, working toward the wall of the room, working from the center toward the corners.
other corner of the room. The tail block should be braced against the opposite wall.
(continued)
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Tip ์บ 10
Locate any floor vents under the stretched carpet,
then use a utility knife to cut away the carpet,
starting at the center. Itโs important that this be done
only after the stretching is complete. Use a carpet edge trimmer to trim surplus carpet away
from the walls. At corners, use a utility knife to finish the cuts.
11
Tuck the trimmed edges of the carpet neatly into the gaps between the tackless strips and the walls, using a stair tool
and hammer.
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โ Installing Carpet on Stairs
Where practical, try to carpet stairs with a single strip The project shown here involves a staircase thatโs
of carpet. If you must use two or more pieces, plan the enclosed on both sides. For open staircases, turn down
layout so the pieces meet where a riser meets a tread. the edges of the carpet and secure them with carpet
Do not seam carpet pieces together in the middle of a tacks.
tread or riser.
Stair riser
Tackless strips
Stair tread
On stairways, tackless strips are attached to the treads and risers. Where two or more pieces of carpet are needed, the pieces
should meet at the โcrotchโ of the step, where the riser and tread meet.
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โ How to Carpet Stairs
1 2
Measure the width of the stairway. Add together the vertical Fasten tackless strips to the risers and the treads. On the
rise and horizontal run of the steps to determine how much risers, place the strips about 1" above the treads. On the
carpet youโll need. Use a straightedge and utility knife to treads, place the strips about 3โ4" from the risers. Make sure the
carefully cut the carpet to the correct dimensions. pins point toward the crotch of the step. On the bottom riser,
leave a gap equal to 2โ3 the carpet thickness.
3
For each step, cut a piece of carpet padding the width of the step and long enough to cover the tread and a few inches of the
riser below it. Staple the padding in place.
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4 5
Position the carpet on the stairs with the pile direction Use a knee kicker and stair tool to stretch the carpet onto
pointing down. Secure the bottom edge using a stair tool to the tackless strip on the first tread. Start in the center of the
tuck the end of the carpet between the tackless strip and the step, then alternate kicks on either side until the carpet is
floor. completely secured on the step.
6 7
Use a hammer and stair tool to wedge the carpet firmly into Where two carpet pieces meet, secure the edge of the
the back corner of the step. Repeat this process for each step. upper piece first, then stretch and secure the lower piece.
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Carpet Squares
M ost carpeting has a single design and is stretched
from wall to wall. It covers more square feet of
American homes than any other material. You can install
clean, level, dry underlayment or existing floor. If the
surface underneath is waxed or varnished, check with
the manufacturer before you use any adhesives on it.
it yourself, following the instructions on pages 178 to
190. But if you want a soft floor covering that gives you
more options, carpet squares are an excellent choice.
Manufacturers have found ways to create Tools & Materials ์บ
attractive new carpet using recycled fibers. This not
only reuses material that would otherwise become Adhesive Flat-edged trowel
landfill, it reduces waste in manufacturing as well. Aviatorโs snips Marking pen or pencil
So, instead of adding to problems of resource Carpenterโs square Measuring tape
consumption and pollution, carpet squares made from Chalk line Notched trowel
recycled materials help reduce them. Cleaning supplies Straightedge
The squares are attached to each other and to the Craft/utility knife
floor with adhesive dots. They can be installed on most
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โ How to Install Carpet Squares
1 2
Take the squares out of the package. Usually, you want to Check the requirements for the recommended adhesive.
keep new flooring out of the way until youโre ready to install it. You can install carpet squares over many other flooring
But some materials, such as carpet or sheet vinyl, should be materials, including hardwood, laminates, and resilient sheets
at room temperature for at least 12 hours before you lay them or tiles. The carpet squares shown here are fastened with
down. adhesive dots, so almost any existing floor will provide a
usable surface.
3 4
Make sure the existing floor is clean, smooth, stable, and dry. Snap chalk lines between diagonally opposite corners to find
Use floor leveler if necessary to eliminate any hills or valleys. the center point for the room. In rooms with unusual shapes,
If any part of the floor is loose, secure it to the subfloor or determine the visual center and mark it. Next, snap chalk lines
underlayment before you install the carpet squares. Vacuum across the center and perpendicular to the walls. This set of
the surface and wipe it with a damp cloth. guidelines will show you where to start.
(continued)
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5 6
Lay a base row of carpet squares on each side of the two Check the backs of the squares before you apply any
guidelines. When you reach the walls, make note of how much adhesive. They should indicate a direction, using arrows
you will need to cut. You should have the same amount to cut or other marks, so that the finished pile has a consistent
on each side. If not, adjust the center point and realign the appearance. If you plan to mix colors, this is the time to
squares. establish your pattern.
7 8
Fasten the base rows in place using the manufacturerโs When you reach a wall, flip the last square over. Push it
recommended adhesive. This installation calls for two adhesive against the wall until it is snug. If you are planning a continuous
dots per square. As you place each square, make sure it is pattern, align the arrows with the existing squares. If you are
aligned with the guidelines and fits tightly against the next creating a parquet pattern, turn the new square 90 degrees
square. before marking it.
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9 10
Mark notches or draw a line across the back where the new At a door jamb, place a square face up where it will go. Lean
square overlaps the next-to-last one. Using a sharp carpet the square against the jamb and mark the point where they
knife, a carpenterโs square, and a tough work surface, cut meet. Move the square to find the other cutline, and mark
along this line. The cut square should fit neatly in the remaining that as well. Flip the square over, mark the two lines using a
space. carpenterโs square, and cut out the corner.
11 12
Finish all four base rows before you fill in the rest of Work outward from the center so that you have a known
the room. As you work, check the alignment of each row. If reference for keeping rows straight. Save the cut pieces from
you notice a row going out of line, find the point where the the ends. They may be useful for patching odd spaces around
direction changed, then remove squares back to that point and doorways, heat registers, radiator pipes, and when you reach
start again. the corners.
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Finishes
& Surface
Treatments
O ne of the most desirable features of hardwood
flooring is that itโs a natural product. The grain
patterns are interesting to the eye and the combination
of colors gives any room a soft, inviting glow. The
resilience of wood fibers makes a hardwood floor
extremely durable, but they are susceptible to changes
caused by moisture and aging.
Typically, the first thing to wear out on a hardwood
floor is the finish. Refinishing the floor by sanding it
with a rented drum sander and applying a topcoat,
such as polyurethane, will make your old floor look
new. If you donโt want to sand the floor, but want to
retain the floorโs aged glow, or if the boards have been
sanded before and are less than 3โ8" thick, consider
stripping the floor.
Once your floor is finished, you may want to dress
it up with a favorite design, border, or pattern. If the
wood will not look good refinished, consider painting
it. Pages 216 to 223 offer exciting ways to customize
your wood floor.
In this Chapter:
โข Refinishing Supplies & Techniques
โข Stains & Finishes
โข Painting Wood Floors
โข Creating Faux Stone Floor Tile Designs
โข Painting Decorative Borders
โข Creating Nature Prints
โข Sealing Concrete Floors
โข Painting Concrete Floors
โ 199
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Refinishing Supplies & Techniques
Specialty tools and products are necessary for resurfacing or
refinishing wood floors. If several scratches, gouges, and stains
have damaged the floor, it may be a good idea to resurface it by
sanding, using a drum sander (A) for the main floor area and an
B
edger sander (B) for areas next to baseboards. Both tools can be
rented from home improvement or rental centers. As a general
rule, use the finest-grit sandpaper thatโs effective for the job. Be
sure to get complete operating and safety instructions when
renting these tools.
A
G
E
D
H
F
I
C
Other products and tools for resurfacing and refinishing floors: Paint scrapers (C) are helpful for removing old finish in corners
and other areas that cannot be reached by sanders. When refinishing floors, chemical stripping products (D) are often a more
efficient method that yields better results. This is especially true for floors that are uneven, or for parquet and veneered floors,
which cannot be sanded. Stripper knives (E) and abrasive pads (F) are used with the stripping products. For the final finish, water-
based polyurethane (G) is poured into a paint tray (H) and applied using a wide painting pad with a pole extension (I).
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โ How to Refinish Wood Floors
1 2
Staple plastic on all doorways. Place a zip door over Wedge a prybar between the shoe molding and baseboards.
the entryway you plan to use for the duration of the project. Move along the wall as nails loosen. Once removed, place a
Use painterโs tape and plastic to cover heating and cooling scrap 2 ร 4 board against the wall and, with a pry bar, pry out
registers, ceiling fans, and light fixtures. Finally, place a fan in a baseboard at nails (inset). Maintain the gap with wood shims.
nearby window to blow the circulating dust outside. Drive protruding nails in floor 1โ8" below the surface with a
nail set.
3 4
Practice with the drum sander turned off. Move forward For the initial pass with the drum sander, sand with the
and backward; tilt or raise it off the floor a couple of times. A grain, using 40- or 60-grit sandpaper. For large scratches use
drum sander is difficult to maneuver. Once it touches the floor 20 or 30. Start two-thirds down the room length on the right
it walks forward; if you stop it, it gouges the floor. side; work your way to the left. Raise drum. Start motor. Slowly
lower drum to the floor. Lift the sander off the floor as you
approach the wall. Move to the left 2 to 4" and then walk it
backwards the same distance you just walked forward. Repeat.
(continued)
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5 6
When you get to the far left side of the room, turn the Use a power edge sander along the walls, using the same grit
machine around and repeat the process. Overlap the sanded that you last used with the drum sander. Make a succession of
two-thirds to feather out the ridgeline. Repeat this drum overlapping half-circles as you move along the entire perimeter
sanding process 3 or 4 times using 120-grit paper. For the final of the room. Next, run a rotary buffer over the floor twice: first
pass or two use finer paper (150-grit). with an 80-grit screen and then with a 100-grit screen. Finally,
use a random orbital sander to smooth out the floor.
7 8
Use a paint scraper to get to corners and hard-to-reach Remove all plastic on doors, windows, and fixtures and then
nooks. Pull the scraper toward you with a steady downward sweep and vacuum to prepare the room for finish. Wipe up fine
pressure. Pull with the grain. Next, sand with a sanding block. particles with a tack cloth.
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9 10
Seal the sanded wood with a 1:1 mixture of water-based Allow the floor to dry. Buff the surface lightly to remove any
polyurethane and water, using a painting pad and pole. raised wood grain, using a medium abrasive pad. Vacuum the
surface, using a bristle attachment, then wipe with a tack cloth.
11 12
Apply at least two coats of undiluted polyurethane finish to When the final coat is dry, buff the surface with water and
get a hard, durable finish. Allow the finish to dry; repeat step 10 fine abrasive pad. Wait at least 72 hours before replacing the
and then add a final coat. Do not overbrush. shoe molding.
Refinishing Supplies & Techniques โ 203
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โ How to Chemically Strip a Hardwood Floor
1 2
Wearing a respirator and rubber gloves, apply the stripper Scrape off the sludge of stripper and old finish, using a
with a paintbrush. Cover only an area small enough to be nylon stripper knife. Move the scraper with the wood grain, and
scraped within the working time of the stripper. deposit the sludge onto old newspapers. After the entire floor
is stripped, scrub it with an abrasive pad dipped in a rinsing
solvent, such as mineral spirits, thatโs compatible with your
stripping product. Do not use water.
3 4 5
Clean residual sludge and dirt from Remove stains and discoloration by Touch up sanded areas with wood
the joints between floorboards, using a carefully sanding only the affected area. stain. Test the stain before applying.
palette knife or putty knife. Use oxalic acid on deep stains.
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Stains & Finishes
S tains are applied to surfaces of unfinished wood floors
to change the color and are available in a variety of
natural wood tones. Colored stains can be applied to
Look for a water-based stain thatโs formulated
for easy application without lap marks or streaking.
Conditioners can help prevent streaking and control
previously stained and finished floors for a colorwashed grain raise when youโre using water-based wood stains.
effect. Consider a colored stain, such as green for a rustic Use a wood conditioner on the wood prior to staining,
decorating scheme, or white for a contemporary look. if recommended by the manufacturer.
You can stain wood by colorwashing it with diluted
latex paint. The colorwash solution will be considerably
lighter in color than the original paint color. Use 1
part latex paint and 4 parts water to make a colorwash Tools & Materials ์บ
solution, and experiment with small amounts of paint
until you achieve the desired color. Apply the stain or Synthetic brush Tack cloth
colorwash solution in an inconspicuous area, such as a Sponge applicators Water-based stain or
closet, to test the application method and color before Cotton lint-free rags latex paint
staining the entire floor surface. Rubber gloves High-gloss and satin
Aged finishes (see page 208) give floors timeworn Paint pad and pole clear finishes
character, making them especially suitable for a rustic extension Latex enamel paints
or transitional decorating style. Although they appear Power sander Paint roller
distressed and fragile, these finishes are actually Fine- and medium-grit Hammer
very durable. Aged finishes are especially suitable on sandpaper Chisel
previously painted or stained floors, but they may also Vacuum Awl
be applied to new or resurfaced wood flooring. Up to Wood conditioner
three coats of paint in different colors may be used.
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โ Wood Stain Variations
Dark wood tones work well for
traditional rooms. White colorwashing over
a previously dark stained floor mellows the
formal appearance.
Medium, warm wood tones have a
casual appearance. White colorwashing
over a medium wood tone creates an
antiqued look.
Pale neutral stains often are used for
contemporary rooms. A blue colorwash
can give a pale floor a bold new character.
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โ How to Apply a Stained Finish to a Bare Wood Floor
1 2
Sand the floor surface, using fine-grit sandpaper, sanding in Wear rubber gloves when working with any stain product.
the direction of the wood grain. Remove the sanding dust with Stir the stain or colorwash solution thoroughly. Apply the stain
a vacuum, then wipe the floor with a tack cloth. or solution to the floor, using a synthetic brush or sponge
applicator. Work on one small section at a time. Keep a wet
edge and avoid overlapping the brush strokes.
3 4
Wipe away excess stain immediately, or after the waiting time recommended by Apply a coat of high-gloss clear
the manufacturer, using a dry, lint-free rag. Wipe across the grain of the wood first, finish to the stained floor, using a
then wipe with the grain. Continue applying and wiping stain until the entire floor is sponge applicator or a paint pad with
finished. Allow the stain to dry. Sand the floor lightly, using fine-grit sandpaper, then pole extension. Allow the finish to dry.
remove any sanding dust with a tack cloth. For a deeper color, apply a second coat of Sand the floor lightly, using fine-grit
stain and allow it to dry thoroughly. sandpaper, then wipe with a tack cloth.
Apply two coats of satin clear finish
following manufacturerโs directions.
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โ How to Apply an Aged & Distressed Finish
1 2
Finish the floor with a painted or stained base coat. Sand Sand the floor surface with medium-grit sandpaper, sanding
the floor lightly, using fine-grit sandpaper. Vacuum the floor and harder in some areas to remove the top and middle coats of
wipe away dust with a tack cloth. Apply two or three coats of paint, using a power sander. Avoid sanding beyond the base
enamel, using a different color of paint for each coat. Allow coat of paint or stain.
the floor to dry between coats. Sand the floor lightly between
coats, using fine-grit sandpaper, and wipe away dust with a
tack cloth.
3
To distress the floor further, hit the Variation: Two coats of dark green Variation: Maroon base coat and
wood with the head of a hammer or a paint were applied over a previously light rose top coat were painted over a
chain. Gouge the boards with a chisel, stained floor. Sanding revealed the stain previously stained floor. Sanding created
or pound holes randomly, using an in some areas. The floor was further an aged look suitable for a cottage
awl. Create as many imperfections as distressed, using a hammer, chisel, bedroom.
desired, then sand the floor lightly with and awl.
fine-grit sandpaper. Apply two coats of
satin clear finish, allowing the floor to
dry completely between coats.
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Painting Wood Floors
P aint is a quick, cost-effective way to cover up
wood floors that may need work, but a floor
doesnโt have to be distressed or damaged to benefit
Tools & Materials ์บ
Lacquer thinner Extension pole
from paint. Floors in perfect condition in both formal
Primer Paint scraper
and informal spaces can be decorated with paint to
Latex paint specifically Hammer
add color and personality. For example, one could
for floors Pole sander
unify a space by extending a painted floor through
Wood putty Sandpaper
a hallway to a staircase. And stencil designs or faux
Wide painterโs tape Putty knife
finishes can make an oversized room feel cozy and
Drop cloths Nail set
inviting. There are even techniques for disguising
Paint roller and tray Dusk mask
worn spots.
4"-wide paintbrush
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Hardwood
floor
Primer
Paint
Polyurethane
sealer
To paint a wood floor you must apply primer first, then apply the paint, and follow that with a polyurethane sealer. Make sure the
products you choose are specifically for floors.
Primer is a specially-formulated paint that is used to glossy surface that is highly resistant to water and
seal raw surfaces and to provide a base coat of paint allows for easy clean-up of spills. A sealer is a finish
that succeeding finish coats can better adhere to. coating, either clear or pigmented, that is applied on
Water-based polyurethane is a clear finish used for top of the paint.
coating natural or stained wood. It provides a durable,
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โ How to Paint Wood Floors
1 2
Prepare the painting area by first moving furniture. Lift Use a paint scraper to remove smooth rough spots. Use a
pieces instead of dragging them to prevent gouges. Sweep or pole sander to sand with the grain of the wood. For coarse
vacuum. wood, use medium-grit sandpaper. Scuff glossy hardwoods
with fine sandpaper (120-grit) for good adhesion.
3 4
When finished sanding, sweep or vacuum. Use a damp Protect the baseboards with wide painterโs tape. Press the
cloth to remove fine dust. Use a cloth dampened with lacquer tape edges down so paint doesnโt seep underneath.
thinner for a final cleaning. If you see any nails sticking up, tap
them down with a hammer and nail set.
(continued)
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5 6
Mix primer well (see Step 6 for mixing technique). Use a To mix paint, pour half of the paint into another can, stirring
4"-wide brush to apply the primer around the perimeter of the paint in both containers with a wooden stir stick before
the room. Then paint the remaining floor with a roller on an recombining them. As you stir, you want a smooth consistency.
extension pole. Allow the primer to dry.
7 8
Paint. Use a 4" brush to apply a semi-gloss paint around Apply 2 or 3 coats of a matte-finish, waterbased
the border. To paint the rest of the floor, use a roller on an polyurethane sealer, using a painting pad on a pole. Allow the
extension pole. Always roll from a dry area to a wet area to paint to dry. Sand with a pole sander, using fine sandpaper.
minimize lap lines. Allow paint to dry. Apply second coat of Clean up dust with a tack cloth.
paint. Allow to dry.
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โ How to Paint a Checkerboard Pattern
1
If your wood floor is in poor condition, it can be Remove the finish of a previously stained and sealed wood
camouflaged with a design, such as a classic checkerboard floor by sanding the surface with sandpaper on a pole, using
pattern. Proper preparation is essential for lasting results. If fine-grit sandpaper. Alternatively, you may use a power sander
youโve already painted the floor based on the instructions from with fine-grit sandpaper. Vacuum the entire floor, then wipe it
the first half of this project, you are well on your way and you with a tack cloth to remove all sanding dust.
have the base color already painted. You just have to paint in
the darker colored squares (skip to Step 3).
Use painterโs tape to cover the
2 baseboards. Paint the entire floor with the
lighter of the two paint colors. Allow the
paint to dry thoroughly.
(continued)
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3 4
Measure the entire floor. Now, determine the size of Using painterโs tape, outline the squares that are to remain
squares youโll use. Plan the design so the areas of the floor light in color. Press firmly along all edges of the tape, using a
with the highest visibility, such as the main entrance, have putty knife, to create a tight seal.
full squares. Place partial squares along the walls in less
conspicuous areas. Mark the design lines on the floor, using a
straightedge and pencil.
5 6
Paint the remaining squares with the dark paint color. Paint After all of the paint has completely dried, apply a coat
in small areas at a time. Once you have painted the entire box of high-gloss clear finish, using a paint roller or paint pad with
and a few surrounding boxes, remove the masking tape from a pole extension. Allow the finish to dry.
the painted squares. Be sure to remove the tape before the
paint completely dries.
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โ How to Make a Painted Floor Cloth
1 2
Trim selvages from the canvas. Mark the canvas to Machine stitch around the canvas 1โ4" from raw edges. Stitch
the desired size, using a pencil, carpenterโs square, and a second row of stitching 1โ8" from raw edges. Press the canvas
straightedge. Cut the canvas to size. so it lies flat.
3 4
Place the canvas on a plastic drop cloth. Using a paint roller, Mark your design, using a pencil. Paint the design, applying
apply the background paint color, taking care not to crease the one color at a time. Use a fine-pointed brush for outlining and
canvas. Roll the paint in all directions to penetrate the fabric. a wider brush for filling in the design areas. Allow the paint to
Allow it to dry. Apply additional coats of paint as necessary, dry 24 hours.
allowing the paint to dry overnight. Trim any loose threads.
5 6
Apply sealer, using a synthetic-bristle paintbrush. Allow the Place the canvas on the floor, making sure it lies perfectly
sealer to dry for several hours. Apply two additional coats of flat.
sealer, following the manufacturerโs instructions for drying time.
Painting Wood Floors โ 215
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Creating Faux Stone Tile Designs
A painted finish that mimics unpolished stone can
be applied to a floor using a stippler or pieces
of newspaper. The stippling technique results in a
water for each shade of earth-toned flat glaze. For
faux stone washes, mix one part flat latex paint and
two to three parts water for each shade of wash.
relatively smooth textured finish with blended colors, Dilute the paint with water until it reaches the
while the newspaper method creates an unpolished consistency of ink.
stone finish with depth, color variation, and a rough
visual texture. Adding rustic grout lines creates the
look of expensive stone tiles.
A variety of earth-tone glazes can be combined Tools & Materials ์บ
to make a stone finish in the desired color. Itโs best to
limit your selection to two or three colors. Low-napped roller Flat latex paint in white
To create grout lines, apply masking tape to the Sponge applicator or and earth-tone
surface in a grid pattern before applying the faux paintbrush Matte clear finish
finish. Once the finish has been applied and is dry, Stippler or newspaper or aerosol
remove the tape and paint the lines with a rounded White low-luster latex Matte clear acrylic
artistโs brush. You can get a rustic look by painting enamel paint sealer (optional)
the lines by hand or create the illusion of depth by Flat latex paint in Latex or craft acrylic
โshadowingโ the grout lines with a marker thatโs darker earth-tone shades paint to contrast
than the base coat color. Latex paint conditioner with stone finish
For faux stone flat glazes, mix one part latex Cheesecloth
paint, one part latex paint conditioner, and one part
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โ How to Apply a Faux Stone Finish Using the Stippling Method
1 2
Apply a base coat of white low-luster latex enamel to the Apply a flat earth-tone glaze in random strokes, using a sponge
surface, using an applicator suitable to the surface size. Allow applicator or paintbrush. Cover about half of the surface. Repeat
the paint to dry. Mask off grout lines, if desired. the random strokes with another color glaze in the remaining
areas, leaving some small areas of the base coat unglazed.
3 4
Using a stippler, lightly brush over the surface. Blend the Apply a white wash to the entire surface. Dab with a
colors as desired, leaving some areas very dark and others wadded cheesecloth to soften the finish. Allow the paint to
light enough for the base coat to show through. Add white and dry, then apply matte clear finish or matte aerosol clear acrylic
black glazes, or earth-tone glazes, as desired. Blend the colors sealer, if desired.
with the stippler, and then allow the paint to dry.
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โ How to Apply a Faux Stone Finish
Using the Newspaper Method
1 2
Follow steps 1 and 2 on page 217. Apply a white wash in Fold a sheet of newspaper to several layers. Lay it flat
desired areas, and apply an earth-tone wash in other areas. over one area of the surface and press it into the glaze. Lift
the paper, removing some of the glaze. Repeat in other areas,
using the same newspaper, turning it in different directions to
blend the colors roughly.
3 4
Add more color to an area by spreading glaze onto the Apply a white wash to the entire surface. Dab with a
newspaper and laying it flat on the surface. Repeat as wadded cheesecloth to soften the colors. Allow the paint to
necessary until the desired effect is achieved. Leave some dark dry, then apply a matte clear finish or matte aerosol clear
accent areas in the finish as well as an occasional light spot. acrylic sealer, if desired.
Use the same newspaper throughout. Allow the paint to dry.
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โ How to Apply Rustic Grout Lines
1 2
Apply a base coat of white low-luster latex enamel to Stretch 1โ4" masking tape taut, and apply it to the surface
the surface, using an applicator suitable to the surface size. in horizontal lines, positioning the tape lines just under the
Allow the paint to dry. Plan the placement of the grout lines, marked points. Repeat this process for the vertical lines,
and mark the points of intersection, using a pencil and positioning the tape just right of the marks. Press the tape
straightedge. firmly in place with your fingers, but donโt burnish the tape.
3 4
Apply the desired faux finish (page 213). Allow the finish to Paint over the grout lines freehand, using a round artistโs
dry, then carefully remove the tape lines. brush and a grout line glaze in a color that contrasts pleasingly
with the faux finish. Allow the lines to have some irregularity in
thickness and density. Allow the paint to dry. Apply a finish or
sealer to the entire surface, as desired.
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Painting Decorative Borders
A painted striped border with a block print design is
a great way to add a personal touch to your floor.
The stripes and designs effectively frame an attractive
Tools & Materials ์บ
Fine-grit sandpaper Closed-cell foam
wood floor. The actual painting is the easy part of the
Painterโs masking tape Wood block
project. The more time-consuming aspect is laying out
Putty knife Acrylic paint extender
the design on the floor and taping the paint lines. Take
Straightedge Felt
your time applying the tape to make sure itโs pressed
Tape measure Glass or acrylic sheet
firmly to the floor, or paint could run under it.
Vacuum High-gloss clear finish
Closed-cell foam for the block-print design is
Tack cloth Sponge applicator
available as thin, pressure-sensitive sheets, neoprene
Paintbrush Satin clear finish
weather-stripping tape, neoprene sheets, and
Paint
computer mouse pads.
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โ How to Paint Decorative Borders
1 2
Sand the surface of a previously stained and sealed wood Measure and mark the design lines for the border on the
floor lightly in the area to be painted, using fine sandpaper, to floor, using a straightedge and pencil. Mask off stripes in the
degloss the finish and improve paint adhesion. Vacuum the design, using painterโs masking tape. Press the tape firmly
entire floor, and wipe with tack cloth. along edges with a putty knife to prevent paint from seeping
under the tape.
Apply paint for the stripes, using a
3 paintbrush. Remove the masking tape.
Allow the paint to dry.
(continued)
Painting Decorative Borders โ 221
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4 5
Make printing blocks from closed-cell foam thatโs cut to Thin the paint slightly with an acrylic paint extender, about
desired shapes and attached to a wood block. three to four parts paint to one part extender. Cut a piece of
felt, larger than the printing block. Place the felt pad on glass
or acrylic sheet. Pour the paint mixture onto the felt, allowing
the paint to saturate the pad.
6 7
Press the printing block onto the felt pad, coating the Press the printing block onto the floor, applying firm, even
surface of the foam evenly with paint. pressure to the back of the block. Remove the block by pulling it
straight back off the floor to avoid smudging. Apply a coat of high-
gloss clear finish over the entire floor, using a sponge applicator.
Allow the finish to dry, then sand lightly with fine-grit sandpaper.
Wipe with tack cloth. Apply two coats of satin clear finish.
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Creating Nature Prints
U se leaves to create a unique imprint on your floor.
Leaves can be collected from your own backyard
or found at a local florist. Experiment with the printing
process on paper to determine which leaves provide the
desired finished result. Printing with the back side of
the leaf may provide more detail in the finished print.
Nature print designs can be applied easily over
previously stained or color-washed and finished floors.
A wood floor can be embellished with corner designs
or a border. For a parquet floor, apply leaf prints
randomly to the centers of the wood squares.
Tools & Materials ์บ
Fine-grit sandpaper Lint-free cloth
Tack cloth Craft acrylic paints
Synthetic brush High-gloss and satin
Sponge applicator clear finishes
Wax paper Fresh leaves
Rubber brayer (about 4" wide)
โ How to Print Floor Designs
1 2
Press the leaves flat by placing them between pages of a Position the leaf, paint-side down, over the floor in the
large book for about an hour. Sand the surface of a previously desired location of the print, then cover it with wax paper. Roll
stained and sealed wood floor lightly in the area to be printed, the brayer over the leaf to make an imprint. Carefully remove
using fine-grit sandpaper. Wipe with a tack cloth. Apply a thin the wax paper and leaf. Remove any unwanted paint lines from
layer of craft acrylic paint to the back side of the leaf, using a the imprint, using a damp cloth before the paint dries. Allow the
sponge applicator. paint to dry. Repeat the printing process for a desired number
of leaf prints. Apply two coats of clear finish over the designs.
Creating Nature Prints โ 223
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Sealing Concrete Floors
M ost people are accustomed to thinking of
concrete primarily as a utilitarian substance, but
it can also mimic a variety of flooring types and be a
There are four important reasons to seal your
concrete floor: to protect the floor from dirt, oil,
grease, chemicals, and stains; to dust-proof the
colorful and beautiful addition to any room. Whether surface; to protect the floor from abrasion and sunlight
your concrete floor is a practical surface for the garage exposure; and to repel water and protect the floor from
or an artistic statement of personal style in your dining freeze-thaw damage.
room, it should be sealed.
Concrete is a hard and durable building material,
but it is also porousโso it is susceptible to staining.
Many stains can be removed with the proper cleaner, Tools & Materials ์บ
but sealing and painting prevents oil, grease, and other
stains from penetrating the surface in the first place; Acid-tolerant pump Paint
and cleanup is a whole lot easier. sprayer Roller tray
Even after degreasing a concrete floor, residual Alkaline-base neutralizer Wet vacuum
grease or oils can create serious adhesion problems for Sealant High-pressure washer
coatings of sealant or paint. To check to see whether Rubber Boots Paintbrush
your floor has been adequately cleaned, pour a glass Garden hose with nozzle Respirator
of water on the concrete floor. If it is ready for sealing, Acid-tolerant bucket Stiff bristle broom
the water will soak into the surface quickly and evenly. Eye protection Extension handle
If the water beads, you may have to clean it again. Paint roller frame Rubber gloves
Detergent used in combination with a steam cleaner Soft-woven roller cover
can remove stubborn stains better than a cleaner alone.
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โ How to Seal Concrete Floors
1 2
Clean and prepare the surface by first sweeping up all Saturate the surface with clean water. The surface needs
debris. Next, remove all surface muck: mud, wax, and grease. to be wet before acid etching. Use this opportunity to check
Finally, remove existing paints or coatings. See the chapter on for any areas where water beads up. If water beads on the
cleaning concrete for tips on what to use to remove a variety surface, contaminants still need to be cleaned off with a
of common stains. suitable cleaner or chemical stripper.
3 4
Test your acid-tolerant pump sprayer with water to Add the acid etching contents to the water in the acid-
make sure it releases a wide, even mist. Once you have tolerant pump sprayer (or sprinkling can). Follow the directions
the spray nozzle set, check the manufacturerโs instructions (and mixing proportions) specified by the manufacturer. Use
for the etching solution and fill the pump sprayer with the caution.
recommended amount of water.
(continued)
Sealing Concrete Floors โ 225
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5 6
Apply the acid solution. Using the sprinkling can or acid- Use a stiff bristle broom or scrubber to work the acid
tolerant pump spray unit, evenly apply the diluted acid solution solution into the concrete. Let the acid sit for 5 to 10 minutes,
over the concrete floor. Do not allow acid solution to dry at any or as indicated by the manufacturerโs directions. A mild
time during the etching and cleaning process. Etch small areas foaming action indicates that the product is working. If no
at a time, 10 ร 10 ft. or smaller. If there is a slope, begin on the bubbling or fizzing occurs, it means there is still grease, oil, or
low side of the slope and work upward. a concrete treatment on the surface that is interfering. If this
occurs, follow steps 7 to 12 and then clean again.
7 8
Once the fizzing has stopped, the acid has finished Use a garden hose with a pressure nozzle or, ideally, a
reacting with the alkaline concrete surface and formed pH- pressure washer in conjunction with a stiff bristle broom to
neutral salts. Neutralize any remaining acid with an alkaline- thoroughly rinse the concrete surface. Rinse the surface 2 to 3
base solution. Put a gallon of water in a 5-gallon bucket and times. Re-apply the acid (repeat Steps 5, 6, 7, and 8).
then stir in an alkaline-base neutralizer. Using a stiff bristle
broom, make sure the concrete surface is completely covered
with the solution. Continue to sweep until the fizzing stops.
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9 10
If you have any leftover acid you can make it safe for your Use a wet vacuum to clean up the mess. Some sitting acids
septic system by mixing more alkaline solution in the 5-gallon and cleaning solutions can harm local vegetation, damage your
bucket and carefully pouring the acid from the spray unit into drainage system, and are just plain environmentally unfriendly.
the bucket until all of the fizzing stops. Check your local disposal regulations for proper disposal of the
neutralized spent acid.
11 12
To check for residue, rub a dark cloth over a small area of Let the concrete dry for at least 24 hours and sweep up
concrete. If any white residue appears, continue the rinsing dust, dirt, and particles leftover from the acid etching process.
process. Check for residue again. Your concrete should now have the consistency of 120-grit
sandpaper and be able to accept concrete sealants.
(continued)
Sealing Concrete Floors โ 227
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13 14
Once etched, clean, and dry, your concrete is ready for clear Use wide painterโs tape to protect walls and then, using
sealer or liquid repellent. Mix the sealer in a bucket with a stir a good quality 4"-wide synthetic bristle paintbrush, coat the
stick. Lay painterโs tape down for a testing patch. Apply sealer perimeter with sealer.
to this area and allow to dry to ensure desired appearance.
Concrete sealers tend to make the surface slick when wet. Add
an anti-skid additive to aid with traction, especially on stairs.
15 16
Use a long-handled paint roller with at least 1โ2" nap to Allow surface to dry according to the manufacturerโs
apply an even coat to the rest of the surface. Do small sections instructions, usually 8 to 12 hours minimum. Then apply a
at a time (about 2' ร 3'). Work in one orientation (e.g., north second coat in the opposite direction to the first coat, so if the
to south). Avoid lap marks by always maintaining a wet edge. first coat was north to south, the second coat should be east
Do not work the area once the coating has partially dried; this to west.
could cause it to lift from the surface.
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Painting Concrete Floors
T his book includes two ways of building new
floors on top of concrete. But sometimes it
just isnโt practical to add a new layer. Maybe your
Once you find the look youโre after, the directions here
will help you create it.
Basements seldom have adequate ventilation for
basement ceiling is already low, and you need to working with paint. Set up fans to keep the air moving.
preserve as much headroom as possible. Or maybe If your concrete floor is on a porch or garage, just leave
you donโt use the space often enough to justify a full the doors open.
makeover.
To give concrete flooring a facelift, nothing is
simpler than paint. You can protect the surface from Tools & Materials ์บ
dirt and stains with a clear sealer, give it a translucent
color wash, or cover it with an opaque floor paint. Just Bleach solution Nylon-bristle brush
make sure the surface is clean, dry, level, smooth, and Cleaning supplies Paint roller and tray
free of any grease or wax. Electric fan(s) Patching compound
Before you choose a surface treatment for your Eye protection Roller extension handle
concrete floor, do some browsing. Try your local Nylon paint brush Rubber gloves
library, the web, and building supply and paint stores.
Painting Concrete Floors โ 229
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โ How to Paint Concrete Floors
1 2
Concrete floors can hold paint made for them, but first the Rinse the surface well with clean water and let it dry.
concrete must be clean and dry. Sweep, vacuum, and mop the
floor thoroughly. To remove any stains, scrub the floor with
solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water. Wear eye protection
and rubber gloves.
3 4
Following the manufacturerโs directions, use a concrete Test the absorption of the concrete by sprinkling some
patching compound to repair any cracks. Make sure the floor water on the floor. If the water is absorbed quickly, paint will
surface does not flake or crumble anywhere. probably bond well. If it beads up, you should probably use the
acid etching method shown on pages 225 to 227. After etching,
let the floor dry at least overnight.
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5 6
If you expect to use more than one container of paint, Using a nylon brush, such as a 2ยฝ-inch sash brush, cut in
open them all and mix them together for a uniform color. You the sides and corners with primer. This creates a sharp, clean
do not need to thin a paint for use on a floor. One exception is edge. Start this way for the top coat as well.
if you use a sprayer that requires thinned paint.
7 8
Using a roller pad with the nap length recommended by the With a clean roller pad, apply the first top coat. Make the
manufacturer, apply a primer coat to the surface. Start at the top coat even but not too thick, then let it dry for 24 hours. If
corner farthest away from the door, and back up as you work. you choose to add another top coat, work the roller in another
Allow the primer to dry for at least 8 hours. direction to cover any thin spots. Let the final coat dry another
day before you walk on it.
Painting Concrete Floors โ 231
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Repairs
F loor coverings wear out faster than other
interior surfaces because they get more wear
and tear. Surface damage can affect more than just
appearance. Scratches in resilient flooring and cracks
in grouted tile joints can let moisture into the floorโs
underpinnings. Hardwood floors lose their finish and
become discolored. Loose boards squeak.
Underneath the finished flooring, moisture ruins
wood underlayment and the damage is passed on to
the subfloor. Bathroom floors suffer the most from
moisture problems. Subflooring can pull loose from
joists, causing floors to become uneven and springy.
You can fix these problems yourself, such as
squeaks, a broken stair tread, damaged baseboard and
trim, and minor damage to floor coverings, with the
tools and techniques shown on the following pages.
In this Chapter:
โข Eliminating Floor Squeaks
โข Eliminating Stair Squeaks
โข Replacing a Broken Stair Tread
โข Replacing Trim Moldings
โข Repairing Hardwood
โข Repairing Vinyl
โข Repairing Carpet
โข Repairing Ceramic Tile
โข Repairing Concrete
โ 233
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Eliminating Floor Squeaks
F loors squeak when floorboards rub against each
other or against the nails securing them to the
subfloor. Hardwood floors squeak if they havenโt been
nailed properly. Normal changes in wood make some
squeaking inevitable, although noisy floors sometimes
indicate serious structural problems. If an area of a
floor is soft or excessively squeaky, inspect the framing
and the foundation supporting the floor.
Whenever possible, fix squeaks from underneath
the floor. Joists longer than 8 feet should have X-bridging
or solid blocking between each pair to help distribute
the weight. If these supports arenโt present, install them
every 6 feet to stiffen and help silence a noisy floor.
Tools & Materials ์บ
Drill Wood putty
Hammer Graphite powder
Nail set Dance-floor wax
Putty knife Pipe straps
Wood screws Hardwood shims
Flooring nails Wood glue
โ How to Eliminate Floor Squeaks
1 2
If you can access floor joists from underneath, drive wood When you canโt reach the floor from underneath, surface-
screws up through the subfloor to draw hardwood flooring nail the floor boards to the subfloor with ring-shank flooring
and the subfloor together. Drill pilot holes and make certain nails. Drill pilot holes close to the tongue-side edge of the
the screws arenโt long enough to break through the top of the board and drive the nails at a slight angle to increase their
floorboards. Determine the combined thickness of the floor holding power. Whenever possible, nail into studs. Countersink
and subfloor by measuring at cutouts for pipes. the nails with a nail set and fill the holes with tinted wood putty.
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3 4
Eliminate squeaks in a carpeted floor by using a special floor Eliminate squeaks in hardwood floors with graphite powder,
fastening device, called a Squeeeeek No More, to drive screws talcum powder, powdered soap, mineral oil, or liquid wax.
through the subfloor into the joists. The device guides the Remove dirt and deposits from joints, using a putty knife. Apply
screw and controls the depth. The screw has a scored shank, graphite powder, talcum powder, powdered soap, or mineral oil
so once itโs set, you can break the end off just below the between squeaky boards. Bounce on the boards to work the
surface of the subfloor. lubricant into the joints. Clean up excess powder with a damp
cloth. Liquid wax is another option, although some floor finishes,
such as urethane and varnish, are not compatible with wax, so
check with the flooring manufacturer. Use a clean cloth to spread
wax over the noisy joints, forcing the wax deep into the joints.
5 6
In an unfinished basement or crawl space, copper water The boards or sheeting of a subfloor can separate from
pipes are usually hung from floor joists. Listen for pipes rubbing the joists, creating gaps. Where gaps are severe or appear
against joists. Loosen or replace wire pipe hangers to silence above several neighboring joists, the framing may need
the noise. Pull the pointed ends of the hanger from the wood, reinforcement, but isolated gapping can usually be remedied
using a hammer or pry bar. Lower the hanger just enough so with hardwood shims. Apply a small amount of wood glue to
the pipe isnโt touching the joist, making sure the pipe is held the shim and squirt some glue into the gap. Using a hammer,
firmly so it wonโt vibrate. Renail the hanger, driving the pointed tap the shim into place until itโs snug. Shimming too much
end straight into the wood. will widen the gap, so be careful. Allow the glue to dry before
walking on the floor.
Eliminating Floor Squeaks โ 235
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Eliminating Stair Squeaks
T his staircase has center stringers to help support
the treads. The 2 ร 4s nailed between the outside
stringers and the wall studs serve as spacers that allow
Tools & Materials ์บ
Drill Caulk gun
room for the installation of skirt boards and wall finishes.
Screwdriver Hardwood shims
Like floors, stairs squeak when the lumber
Hammer Wood plugs
becomes warped or loose boards rub together. The
Utility knife Wood glue
continual pounding of foot traffic takes its toll on even
Nail set Quarter-round molding
the best built staircases. An unstable staircase is as
Wood screws Finish nails
unsafe as it is unattractive. Problems related to the
Wood putty Construction adhesive
structure of a staircase, such as severe sagging, twisting,
or slanting, should be left to a professional. However,
you can easily complete many common repairs.
Squeaks are usually caused by movement between
the treads and risers, which can be alleviated from
above or below the staircase.
Tread
Risers
Center
stringer
Outside
stringer
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โ How to Eliminate Squeaks from Below the Stairs
1 2
Glue wood blocks to the joints between the treads and Fill the gaps between stair parts with tapered hardwood
risers with construction adhesive. Once the blocks are in place, shims. Coat the shims with wood glue and tap them into the
drill pilot holes and fasten them to the treads and risers with joints between treads and risers until theyโre snug. Shimming
wood screws. If the risers overlap the back edges of the treads, too much will widen the gap. Allow the glue to dry before
drive screws through the risers and into the treads to bind walking on the stairs.
them together.
โ How to Eliminate Squeaks from Above the Stairs
1 2 3
When the underside of a staircase Support the joints between treads Tap glued wood shims under loose
is inaccessible, silence noisy stairs from and risers by attaching quarter-round treads to keep them from flexing. Use a
above. Drill pilot holes and drive screws molding. Drill pilot holes and use finish block to prevent splitting, and drive the
down through stair treads into the nails to fasten the molding. Set the nails shim just until itโs snug. When the glue
risers. Countersink the screws and fill with a nail set. dries, cut the shims flush, using a utility
the holes with putty or wood plugs. knife.
Eliminating Stair Squeaks โ 237
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Replacing a Broken Stair Tread
A broken stair tread is hazardous because we often
donโt look at steps as we climb them. Replace
a broken step right away. The difficulty of this job
depends on the construction of your staircase and the Railing
accessibility of the underside. Itโs better to replace a
damaged tread than to repair it. A patch could create an
Newel
irregular step that surprises someone unfamiliar with it. post
Tools & Materials ์บ
Baluster
Flat pry bar Stair tread Molding
Tread
Hammer Construction adhesive
Combination square Screws
Riser
Circular saw Wood putty
Drill Finish nails
Nail set Nail set
Return
Caulk gun
nosing Stringer
โ How to Replace a Broken Stair Tread
1 2
Carefully remove any decorative elements attached If possible, hammer upward from underneath the stairs to
to the tread. Pull up carpeting and roll it aside. Remove trim separate the tread from the risers and stringers. Otherwise, use
pieces on or around the edges of the tread. Remove the a hammer and pry bar to work the tread loose, pulling nails as
balusters by detaching the top ends from the railing and you go. Once the tread is removed, scrape the exposed edges
separating the joints in the tread. Some staircases have a of the stringers to remove old glue and wood fragments.
decorative hardwood cap inlaid into each tread. Remove these
with a flat pry bar, taking care to pry from underneath the cap
to avoid marring the exposed edges.
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3 4
Measure the length for the new tread and mark it with a Apply a bead of construction adhesive to the exposed
combination square so the cut end will be square and straight. tops of the stringers. The adhesive will strengthen the bond
If the tread has a milled end for an inlay, cut from the plain end. between the tread and stringer and will cushion the joint,
Cut the new tread to size, using a circular saw, and test-fit it preventing the parts from squeaking.
carefully.
5 6
Set the tread in place. If you have access to the step from Reinstall any decorative elements, using finish nails. Set
underneath, secure the tread to the riser above it by driving the nails with a nail set. Reinstall the balusters, if necessary.
screws through the riser into the back edge of the tread. To
fasten it from the top side, drill and countersink pilot holes and
drive two or three screws through the tread into the top edge
of each stringer. Also drive a few screws along the front edge
of the tread into the riser below it. Fill the screw holes in the
tread with wood putty or plugs.
Replacing a Broken Stair Tread โ 239
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Replacing Trim Moldings
T hereโs no reason to let damaged trim moldings
detract from the appearance of a well-maintained
room. With the right tools and a little attention to
detail, you can replace or repair them quickly and
Cap
easily.
Home centers and lumber yards sell many styles
of moldings, but they may not stock moldings found
in older homes. If you have trouble finding duplicates,
check salvage yards in your area. They sometimes
carry styles no longer manufactured. You can also try
combining several different moldings to duplicate a
more elaborate version.
Baseboard
Tools & Materials ์บ
Flat pry bars (2) Wood scraps
Base shoe
Coping saw Replacement moldings
Miter saw 2d, 4d, and 6d finish
Drill nails
Hammer Wood putty
Nail set
โ How to Remove Damaged Trim
1 2
Even the lightest pressure from a pry bar can damage To remove baseboards without damaging the wall, use
wallboard or plaster, so use a large, flat scrap of wood to leverage rather than force. Pry off the base shoe first, using a
protect the wall. Insert one bar beneath the trim and work the flat pry bar. When you feel a few nails pop, move farther along
other bar between the baseboard and the wall. Force the pry the molding and pry again.
bars in opposite directions to remove the baseboard.
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โ How to Install Baseboards
1 2
Scrap baseboard
Start at an inside corner by butting one piece of baseboard Cut along the outline on the workpiece with a coping saw,
securely into the corner. Drill pilot holes, then fasten the keeping the saw perpendicular to the baseboard face. Test-fit
baseboard with two 6d finish nails, aligned vertically, at each the coped end. Recut it, if necessary.
wall stud. Cut a scrap of baseboard so the ends are perfectly
square. Cut the end of the workpiece square. Position the
scrap on the back of the workpiece so its back face is flush
with the end of the workpiece. Trace the outline of the scrap
onto the back of the workpiece.
3 4
To cut the baseboard to fit at outside corners, mark the Install base shoe molding along the bottom of the
end where it meets the outside wall corner. Cut the end at a baseboards. Make miter joints at inside and outside corners,
45ยฐ angle, using a power miter saw. Lock-nail all miter joints and fasten base shoe with 2d finish nails. Whenever possible,
by drilling a pilot hole and driving 4d finish nails through each complete a run of molding using one piece. For long spans, join
corner. molding pieces by mitering the ends at parallel 45ยฐ angles. Set
nail heads below the surface using a nail set, and then fill the
holes with wood putty.
Replacing Trim Moldings โ 241
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Repairing Hardwood
A darkened, dingy hardwood floor may only need
a thorough cleaning to reveal an attractive,
healthy finish. If you have a fairly new or prefinished
hardwood floor, check with the manufacturer or
flooring installer before applying any cleaning products
or wax. Most prefinished hardwood, for example,
should not be waxed.
Water and other liquids can penetrate deep into
the grain of hardwood floors, leaving dark stains that
are sometimes impossible to remove by sanding.
Instead, try bleaching the wood with oxalic acid,
available in crystal form at home centers or paint Identify surface finishes using solvents. In an inconspicuous
area, rub in different solvents to see if the finish dissolves,
stores. When gouges, scratches, and dents arenโt bad
softens, or is removed. Denatured alcohol removes shellac,
enough to warrant replacing a floorboard, repair the while lacquer thinner removes lacquer. If neither of those work,
damaged area with a latex wood patch that matches try nail polish remover containing acetone, which removes
the color of your floor. varnish but not polyurethane.
Tools & Materials ์บ
Vacuum Hardwood cleaning kit Latex wood patch Hammer
Buffing machine Paste wax Sandpaper Caulk gun
Hammer Rubber gloves Drill Spine-shank flooring nails
Nail set Oxalic acid Spade bit Nail set
Putty knife Vinegar Circular saw Wood putty
Cloths Wood restorer Chisel
โ How to Clean & Renew Hardwood
1 2 3
Vacuum the entire floor. Mix hot If the water and detergent donโt When the floor is clean and dry, apply
water and dishwashing detergent remove the old wax, use a hardwood a high-quality floor wax. Paste wax is
that doesnโt contain lye, trisodium floor cleaning kit. Use only solvent- more difficult to apply than liquid floor
phosphate, or ammonia. Working on type cleaners, as some water-based wax, but it lasts much longer. Apply the
3-ft.-square sections, scrub the floor products can blacken wood. Apply the wax by hand, then polish the floor with
with a brush or nylon scrubbing pad. cleaner following the manufacturerโs a rented buffing machine fitted with
Wipe up the water and wax with a towel instructions. synthetic buffing pads.
before moving to the next section.
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โ How to Remove Stains
1 2 3
Remove the finish by sanding Let the liquid stand for one hour. Apply several coats of wood restorer
the stained area with sandpaper. Repeat the application, if necessary. until the bleached area matches the
In a disposable cup, dissolve the Wash with 2 tablespoons borax finish of the surrounding floor.
recommended amount of oxalic acid dissolved in one pint water to neutralize
crystals in water. Wearing rubber gloves, the acid. Rinse with water, and let the
pour the mixture over the stained area, wood dry. Sand the area smooth.
taking care to cover only the darkened
wood.
โ How to Patch Scratches & Small Holes
1 2 3
Before filling nail holes, make sure Scrape excess compound from Apply wood restorer to the sanded
the nails are securely set in the wood. the edges, and allow the patch to dry area until it blends with the rest of the
Use a hammer and nail set to drive completely. Sand the patch flush with floor.
loose nails below the surface. Apply the surrounding surface. Using fine-grit
wood patch to the damaged area, using sandpaper, sand in the direction of the
a putty knife. Force the compound into wood grain.
the hole by pressing the knife blade
downward until it lies flat on the floor.
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โ Replacing a Section of a Damaged Floorboard
When solid hardwood floorboards are beyond repair, if part of its length is inaccessible, draw a cutting line
they need to be carefully cut out and replaced with across the face of the board, and tape behind the line
boards of the same width and thickness. Replace to protect the section that will remain.
whole boards whenever possible. If a board is long, or
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โ How to Replace Damaged Floorboards
1 2
Draw a rectangle around the damaged area. Determine Determine the depth of the boards to be cut. With a drill
the minimal number of boards to be removed. To avoid nails, and 3โ4"-wide spade bit, slowly drill through a damaged board.
be sure to draw the line 3โ4" inside the outermost edge of any Drill until you see the top of the subfloor. Measure the depth. A
joints. common depth is 5โ8" or 3โ4". Set your circular saw to this depth.
3
To prevent boards from chipping, place masking tape or painterโs tape along the outside of the pencil lines. To create a wood
cutting guide, tack a straight wood strip inside the damaged area (for easy removal, allow nails to slightly stick up). Set back the
guide the distance between the saw blade and the guide edge of the circular saw.
(continued)
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4
Align the circular saw with the wood cutting guide. Turn on the saw. Lower the blade into the cutline. Do not cut the last 1โ4" of
the corners. Remove cutting guide. Repeat with other sides.
5 6
Complete the cuts. Use a hammer and sharp chisel to Remove split boards. Use a scrap 2 ร 4 block for leverage
completely loosen the boards from the subfloor. Make sure the and to protect the floor. With a hammer, tap a pry bar into and
chiselโs beveled side is facing the damaged area for a clean under the split board. Most boards pop out easily, but some
edge. may require a little pressure. Remove exposed nails with the
hammer claw.
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7 8
Use a chisel to remove the 2 remaining strips. Again, make Cut new boards. Measure the length and width of the area
sure the bevel side of the chisel is facing the interior of the to be replaced. Place the new board on a sawhorse, with the
damaged area. Set any exposed nails with your nail set. section to be used hanging off the edge. Draw a pencil cutline.
With saw blade on waste side of mark, firmly press the saw
guide against the edge of a framing square. Measure each
board separately.
9
Use a mallet or hammer to gently tap the groove of the new board into the tongue of the existing board. To protect the tongue of
the new board, use a scrap 2 ร 4 or a manufacturerโs block as a hammering block.
(continued)
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10 11
Lower lip has been removed
Pick a drill bit with a slightly smaller diameter than an Lay the last board face down onto a protective 2 ร 4 and
8-penny finish nail, and drill holes at a 45ยฐ angle through use a sharp chisel to split off the lower lip. This allows it to fit
the corner of the replacement pieceโs tongue every 3" to 4" into place.
along the new board. Hammer a 11โ2"-long, 8-penny finish nail
through the hole into the subfloor. Use a nail set to countersink
nails. Repeat until the last board.
12
To install the last board, hook the tongue into the groove of the old floor and then use a soft mallet to tap the groove side down
into the previous board installed.
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13 14
Drill pilot holes angled outward: two side-by-side holes Once the putty is dry, sand the patch smooth with fine-grit
about 1โ2" from the edges of each board, and one hole every sandpaper. Feather-sand neighboring boards. Vacuum and
12" along the groove side of each board. Drive 11โ2"-long, wipe the area with a clean cloth. Apply matching wood stain or
8-penny finish nails through the holes. Set nails with a nail set. restorer; then apply 2 coats of matching finish.
Fill holes with wood putty.
Variation: Staggered Pattern ์บ
To make a more seamless patch, install a staggered pattern. Follow the basic instructions for the rectangular patch, with
the following exceptions:
1 2 3
Drill a series of holes into the Split and pry out boards. Set the Install new boards. Place
damaged boards with a 5โ8" Forstner circular saw depth to floorboard outermost boards first, working your
bit or hole saw bit. Mark the drilling thickness. Split damaged boards way in. Use a 2 ร 4 scrap hammering
depth with masking tape so you do lengthwise. Cut outward from the block and hammer to tap the new
not drill into the subfloor. center until the cuts intersect the board into place. Lay the last board
holes. Chisel out wood between on a protective 2 ร 4 and use a sharp
holes. Using a 2 ร 4 block for chisel to split off the lower lip. See
leverage, pry out boards. Step 12 for installing last board.
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โ Replacing Small Sections of Wood Floors
Splinters often appear in floors that are dried out and hole. Floorboards that have splinters or gouges donโt
brittle. When hardwood floors are damaged by high necessarily have to be replaced; a splinter can be
heels or pushed chair legs, a portion of the grain may reattached with some glue, and a hole can be filled
dislodge; because the grain of wood runs only in one with some wood putty.
direction, it splinters rather than simply creating a
โ How to Repair Splinters
1 2
If you still have the splintered piece of wood, but it has If the splinter is large, apply wood glue to the hole and
been entirely dislodged from the floor, itโs a good bet that the splinter. Use a Q-Tip or toothpick to apply small amounts of
hollowed space left by the splinter has collected a lot of dirt wood glue under smaller splinters. Soak the Q-Tip in glue; you
and grime. Combine a 1:3 mixture of distilled white vinegar and donโt want Q-Tip fuzz sticking out of your floor once the glue
water in a bucket. Dip an old toothbrush into the solution and dries.
use it to clean out the hole left in the floor. While youโre at it,
wipe down the splinter with the solution, too. Allow the floor
and splinter to thoroughly dry.
3 4
Press the splinter back into place. To clean up the excess Allow the adhesive to dry. Cover the patch with wax paper
glue, use a slightly damp, lint-free cloth. Do not oversoak the and a couple of books. Let the adhesive dry overnight.
cloth with water.
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โ How to Patch Small Holes in Wood Floors
1 2
Repair small holes with wood putty. Use putty that matches Sand the area with fine (100- to 120-grit) sandpaper. Sand
the floor color. Force the compound into the hole with a putty with the wood grain so the splintered area is flush with the
knife. Continue to press the putty in this fashion until the surrounding surface. To better hide the repair, feather sand the
depression in the floor is filled. Scrape excess compound from area. Wipe up dust with a slightly damp cloth.
the area. Use a damp, lint-free cloth while the putty is still wet
to smooth the top level with the surrounding floor. Allow to dry.
With a clean, lint-free cloth, apply a
3 matching stain (wood sealer or โrestorerโ)
to the sanded area. Read the label on the
product to make sure it is appropriate
for sealing wood floors. Work in the stain
until the patched area blends with the
rest of the floor. Allow area to completely
dry. Apply two coats of finish. Be sure the
finish is the same as that which was used
on the surrounding floor.
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โ Replacing Large Sections of Wood Floors
When an interior wall or section of wall has been and provide an elegant finishing touch for your
removed during remodeling, youโll need to patch gaps remodeling project.
in the flooring where the wall was located. There are If you choose to patch the existing flooring,
several options for patching floors, depending on your be aware that itโs difficult to hide patched
budget and the level of your do-it-yourself skills. areas completely, especially if the flooring uses
If the existing flooring shows signs of wear, unique patterns or finishes. A creative solution
consider replacing the entire flooring surface. is to intentionally patch the floor with material
Although it can be expensive, an entirely new floor that contrasts with the surrounding flooring
covering will completely hide any gaps in the floor (opposite page).
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โ How to Replace Large Sections of Wood Floors
1 2
When patching a wood-strip floor, one option is to remove Build up the subfloor in the patch area, using layers of thin
all of the floor boards that butt against the flooring gap using plywood and building paper, so the new surface will be flush
a pry bar and replace them with boards cut to fit. This may with the surrounding flooring. You may need to experiment
require you to trim the tongues from some tongue-and groove with different combinations of plywood and paper to find the
floorboards. Sand and refinish the entire floor so the new right thickness.
boards match the old.
3 4
Fill gaps in floors with materials that have a contrasting A quick, inexpensive solution is to install T-molding to
color and pattern. For wood floors, parquet tiles are an easy bridge a gap in a wood strip floor. T-moldings are especially
and inexpensive choice. You may need to widen the gap with useful when the surrounding boards run parallel to the gap.
a circular saw set to the depth of the wood covering to make T-moldings are available in several widths and can be stained
room for the contrasting tiles. to match the flooring.
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Repairing Vinyl
R epair methods for vinyl flooring depend on the
type of floor as well as the type of damage. With
sheet vinyl, you can fuse the surface or patch in
that the backing of older vinyl tiles made of asphalt
may contain asbestos fibers. Consult a professional for
their removal.
new material. With vinyl tile, itโs best to replace the
damaged tiles.
Small cuts and scratches can be fused
permanently and nearly invisibly with liquid seam Tools & Materials ์บ
sealer, a clear compound thatโs available wherever
vinyl flooring is sold. For tears or burns, the damaged Carpenterโs square Masking tape
area can be patched. If necessary, remove vinyl from a Utility knife Scrap of matching
hidden area, such an the inside of a closet or under an Putty knife flooring
appliance, to use as patch material. Heat gun Mineral spirits
When vinyl flooring is badly worn or the damage is J-roller Floor covering adhesive
widespread, the only answer is complete replacement. Notched trowel Wax paper
Although itโs possible to add layers of flooring in some Marker Liquid seam sealer
situations, evaluate the options carefully. Be aware
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โ How to Patch Sheet Vinyl
1 2
Measure the width and length of the damaged area. Place Lay the patch over the damaged area, matching pattern lines.
the new flooring remnant on a surface you donโt mind making Secure the patch with duct tape. Using a carpenterโs square as
some cuts onโlike a scrap of plywood. Use a carpenterโs a cutting guide, cut through the new vinyl (on top) and the old
square for cutting guidance. Make sure your cutting size is a bit vinyl (on bottom). Press firmly with the knife to cut both layers.
larger than the damaged area.
3 4
Use tape to mark one edge of the new patch with the Soften the underlying adhesive with an electric heat gun
corresponding edge of the old flooring as placement marks. and remove the damaged section of floor. Work from edges in.
Remove the tape around the perimeter of the patch and lift up. When the tile is loosened, insert a putty knife and pry up the
damaged area.
(continued)
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5 6
Scrape off the remaining adhesive with a putty knife or Apply adhesive to the patch, using a notched trowel (with 1โ8"
chisel. Work from the edges to the center. Dab mineral spirits V-shaped notches) held at a 45ยฐ angle to the back of the new
(or Goo Gone) or spritz warm water on the floor to dissolve vinyl patch.
leftover goop, taking care not to use too much; you donโt want
to loosen the surrounding flooring. Use a razor-edged scraper
(flooring scraper) to scrape to the bare wood underlayment.
7 8
Set one edge of the patch in place. Lower the patch onto Let the adhesive dry overnight. Use a soft cloth dipped
the underlayment. Press into place. Apply pressure with a in lacquer thinner to clean the area. Mix the seam sealer
J-roller or rolling pin to create a solid bond. Start at the center according to the manufacturerโs directions. Use an applicator
and work toward the edges, working out air bubbles. Wipe up bottle to apply a thin bead of sealer onto the cutlines.
adhesive that oozes out the sides with a clean, damp cloth or
sponge.
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โ How to Replace Resilient Tile
1 2
Use an electric heat gun to warm the Scrape away remaining adhesive with a putty knife or, for stubborn spots, a floor
damaged tile and soften the underlying scraper. Work from the edges to the center so that you donโt accidentally scrape up
adhesive. Keep the heat source moving the adjacent tiles. Use mineral spirits to dissolve leftover goop. Take care not to allow
so you donโt melt the tile. When an edge the mineral spirits to soak into the floor under adjacent tiles. Vacuum up dust, dirt,
of the tile begins to curl, insert a putty and adhesive. Wipe clean.
knife to pry up the loose edge until you
can remove the tile. Note: If you can
clearly see the seam between tiles, first
score around the tile with a utility knife.
This prevents other tiles from lifting.
3 4
When the floor is dry, use a notched trowelโwith 1โ8" Set one edge of the tile in place. Lower the tile onto the
V-shaped notchesโheld at a 45ยฐ angle to apply a thin, even underlayment and then press it into place. Apply pressure
layer of vinyl tile adhesive onto the underlayment. Note: Only with a J-roller to create a solid bond, starting at the center and
follow this step if you have dry-back tiles. working toward the edge to work out air bubbles. If adhesive
oozes out the sides, wipe it up with a damp cloth or sponge.
Cover the tile with wax paper and some books, and let the
adhesive dry for 24 hours.
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Repairing Carpet
B urns and stains are the most common carpeting
problems. You can clip away the burned fibers of
superficial burns using small scissors. Deeper burns
and indelible stains require patching by cutting away
and replacing the damaged area.
Another common problem, addressed on the
opposite page, is carpet seams or edges that have
come loose. You can rent the tools necessary for fixing
this problem.
Tools & Materials ์บ
Cookie-cutter tool Double-face carpet tape
Knee kicker Seam adhesive
4" wallboard knife Heat-activated seam
Utility knife tape
Seam iron Boards
Replacement carpeting Weights
โ How to Repair Spot Damage
1 2 3
Remove extensive damage or stains Using the cookie-cutter tool again, Press the patch into place. Make
with a โcookie-cutterโ tool, available at cut a replacement patch from scrap sure the direction of the nap or pattern
carpeting stores. Press the cutter down carpeting. Insert double-face carpet matches the existing carpet. To seal
over the damaged area and twist it to tape under the cutout, positioning the the seam and prevent unraveling, apply
cut away the carpet. tape so it overlaps the patch seams. seam adhesive to the edges of the
patch.
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โ How to Restretch Loose Carpet
1 2
Adjust the knob on the head of the knee kicker so the Thrust your knee into the cushion of the knee kicker to
prongs grab the carpet backing without penetrating through force the carpet toward the wall. Tuck the carpet edge into the
the padding. Starting from a corner or near a point where the space between the wood strip and the baseboard using a 4"
carpet is firmly attached, press the knee kicker head into the wallboard knife. If the carpet is still loose, trim the edge with a
carpet, about 2" from the wall. utility knife and stretch it again.
โ How to Glue Loose Seams
1 2
Remove the old tape from under the carpet seam. Cut a Pull up both edges of the carpet and set the hot iron
strip of new seam tape and place it under the carpet so itโs squarely onto the tape. Wait about 30 seconds for the glue to
centered along the seam with the adhesive facing up. Plug in melt. Move the iron about 12" farther along the seam. Quickly
the seam iron and let it heat up. press the edges of the carpet together into the melted glue
behind the iron. Separate the pile to make sure no fibers are
stuck in the glue and the seam is tight. Place weighted boards
over the seam to keep it flat while the glue sets. Remember,
you have only 30 seconds to repeat the process.
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Repairing Ceramic Tile
A lthough ceramic tile is one of the hardest floor
coverings, tiles sometimes become damaged
and need to be replaced. Major cracks in grout joints
Tools & Materials ์บ
Hammer Thin-set mortar
indicate that floor movement has caused the adhesive
Cold chisel Replacement tile
layer beneath the tile to deteriorate. The adhesive
Eye protection Tile spacers
layer must be replaced in order to create a permanent
Putty knife Grout
repair.
Square-notched trowel Bucket
Any time you remove tile, check the underlayment.
Rubber mallet Grout pigment
If itโs no longer smooth, solid, and level, repair or
Level Grout sealer
replace it before replacing the tile. When removing
Needlenose pliers Grout sponge
grout or damaged tiles, be careful not to damage
Screwdriver Floor-leveling compound
surrounding tiles. Always wear eye protection when
Grout float mix
working with a hammer and chisel.
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โ How to Replace Ceramic Tiles
1 2
With a carbide-tipped grout saw, apply firm but gentle If the tile is not already cracked, use a hammer to
pressure across the grout until you expose the unglazed edges puncture the tile by tapping a nail set or center punch into it.
of the tile. Do not scratch the glazed tile surface. If the grout Alternatively, if the tile is significantly cracked, use a chisel to
is stubborn, use a hammer and screwdriver to first tap the tile pry up the tile.
(Step 2).
3 4
Insert a chisel into one of the cracks and gently tap the tile. Use a putty knife to scrape away old thinset adhesive; use
Start at the center and chip outward so you donโt damage a chisel for poured mortar installation. If the underlayment
the adjacent tiles. Be aware that cement board looks a lot like is covered with metal lath, you wonโt be able to get the area
mortar when youโre chiseling. Remove and discard the broken smooth; just clean it out the best you can. Once the adhesive
pieces. is scraped from the underlayment, smooth the rough areas
with sandpaper. If there are gouges in the underlayment, fill
them with epoxy-based thinset mortar (for cementboard) or a
floor-leveling compound (for plywood). Allow the area to dry
completely.
(continued)
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5 6
Use a 1โ4" notched trowel to apply thinset adhesive to the Set the tile in position and press down until it is even with
back of the replacement tile. Set the tile down into the space, the adjacent tiles. Twist it a bit to get it to sit down in the
and use plastic spacers around the tile to make sure it is mortar. Use a mallet or hammer and a block of wood covered
centered within the opening. with cloth or a carpet scrap (a โbeater blockโ) to lightly tap on
the tile, setting it into the adhesive. Use a level or other straight
surface to make sure the tile is level with the surrounding tiles.
If necessary, continue to tap the tile until itโs flush with the rest
of the surrounding tiles.
7 8
Remove the spacers with needlenose pliers. Get the Use a putty knife to apply grout to the joints. Fill in low spots
mortar or thinset adhesive out of the grout joints with a by applying and smoothing extra grout with your finger. Use
small screwdriver and a cloth. Also, wipe away any adhesive the round edge of a toothbrush handle to create a concave
from the surface of the tiles, using a wet sponge. Let the grout line, if desired. You must now grout the joint.
area dry for 24 hours (or according to the manufacturerโs
recommendations).
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Repairing Concrete
W hen patching concrete itโs important to clean
first. Concrete is formed by a chemical reaction
between Portland cement and water, which is called
gravel aggregates into its structure. If thereโs dirt in the
repair, the crystals bond to the dirt instead of the old
concrete and the repair flakes out over time. So long
โhydration.โ The interaction creates tiny crystals that as the cleaning steps in this project are taken seriously,
interlock with one another, binding the sand and the repairs are strong and long-lasting.
Although concrete is very durable, it can still be chipped by heavy objects or cracked due to abrupt changes in temperature or
house shifting.
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โ How to Repair Cracks in Concrete
1 2
Use a concrete chisel (called a โcold chiselโ) and a heavy Clean out the area to be patched, using a wire brush or
hammer or mallet to deepen the edges of the damaged area portable drill with a wire wheel attachment. Be sure to remove
until the outer edges are at least 1โ8" thick. Most cracks and all dirt and loose material from the area to be patched. This
depressions in concrete floors are deeper in the center and step will also roughen the edges a bit, creating a better bond.
are tapered at the edges; the feather thin material around the
perimeter of the hole is liable to peel or flake off, which results
in an unstable surface for a patch.
3 4
A bonding agent (also called a bonding โadhesiveโ) helps to Mix your concrete patching compound with clean water
chemically bond the patch material to the existing concrete, until all of the material is thoroughly wet and all of the lumps
making the repair material less likely to loosen or dislodge. are worked out. Most mixing compounds start to set within
Apply a thin layer of bonding adhesive to the entire repair area 10โ20 minutes. (Inset) Use a trowel to compact the material
with a paintbrush. Some bonding agents need to be applied into the area being repaired until it is slightly raised above the
to a wet surface, others should not. Follow the directions surface of the surrounding concrete. If the hole is deeper than
carefully. 1
โ4", allow each layer to dry before applying the next layer. This
prevents the top from drying out and shrinking while the lower
areas are wet, which could cause re-cracking.
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5 6
Use the edge of the trowel to smooth the surface, Finishing work. Slightly raise the flat face of the steel
removing any excess material. Slide the trowel back and forth finishing trowel and smooth the patching material until it is
on its edge, while also pulling the excess material toward you, even with the adjoining surfaces, creating a seamless repair.
until it is past the edge of the area youโre working on. Scoop it Keep the trowel clean and damp to prevent the mix from
up with the trowel and discard. gumming up the trowel. Finishing is an art and takes practice,
so keep trying. Remember that the patching compound will be
easier to work with when itโs at a slightly stiff consistency.
Use a slightly damp sponge to smooth
7 out the remaining imperfections and clean
off the edges. This actually works wonders
and is a great way to compensate for
being inexperienced at doing finish work
with the trowel. (Inset) Cover with plastic.
Some patch materials suggest that you
cover the finished patch with a piece
of plastic for a few days. This keeps the
moisture from evaporating and gives the
cement more time to cure. Make sure to
weigh down the edges of the plastic. After
the compound is cured, you can use the
edge of the trowel to scrape the patched
areas smooth, if necessary.
Repairing Concrete โ 265
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Glossary
Adhesive โ Bonding agent used Building permit โ Permit obtained Endnail โ Driving nails through the
to adhere the floor covering to the from the local building department face of one board into the end of
underlayment. Adhesives are also allowing you to remodel your home. another one.
available for installing a floor covering
Carpet bar โ A metal bar providing Engineered flooring โ Flooring
on nonporous surfaces, such as
a transition between carpet and thatโs manufactured to look like solid
sheet vinyl.
another floor covering thatโs at the hardwood, but is easier to install, less
Air bubbles โ Pockets of air that get same height or lower than the bottom expensive, and more resistant to wear.
trapped under resilient sheet flooring, of carpet. Engineered flooring is available in
an indication that the adhesive strips or planks.
Cementboard โ Underlayment used
has failed.
for ceramic tile and some hardwood Expansion joint โ A joint in a tile
American National Standards installations. Cementboard is the best layout filled with a flexible material,
Institute (ANSI) โ A standards- underlayment in areas likely to get wet. such as caulk, instead of grout. The
making organization that rates tile for expansion joint allows the tile to shift
Chalk line โ The line left by chalk,
water permeability. without cracking.
usually blue or red, after the chalk
Baseboard โ Strip of wood molding, string is pulled tight between two Facenail โ Driving nails into the face
available in various designs and points and snapped against the floor. of tongue-and-groove flooring.
thicknesses, applied at the bottom of
Clear finish โ A wood finish that Fiber/cementboard
the wall to cover the gap between the
allows the wood grain to be seen underlayment โ A thin, high-density
floor covering and the wall.
without discoloring the wood. underlayment used under ceramic
Baseboard shoe โ A narrow piece tile and resilient flooring where floor
Coefficient of frictionโ The
of molding, often quarter round, height is a concern.
measure of a tileโs slip resistance.
attached to the bottom of baseboard
Tiles with high numbers are more Field tile โ Tile thatโs not part of a
to hide gaps between the floor
slip resistant. design or border.
covering and baseboard, and to add a
decorative edge. Common nail โ A heavy-shaft nail Finish nail โ A nail with a small,
used primarily for framing work, dimpled head, used for fastening
Baseboard tile โ Baseboard-shaped
available from 2d to 60d. wood trim and other detailed work.
tile used instead of wood baseboards.
Used in conjunction with tile floors. Cross bridging โ Diagonal braces Flagstone โ Quarried stone cut into
installed between joists to keep them slabs usually less than 3" thick, used
Batter boards โ Temporary stake
from moving and to keep floors from for outdoor floors.
structures used for positioning layout
squeaking. Cross bridging can be
strings for outdoor floors. Floating floor โ Wood or
wood or metal.
laminate floor covering that rests
Beam โ Any horizontal framing
Crosscut โ Cutting a piece of wood on a thin foam padding and is not
member such as a joist or header.
perpendicular to the wood grain. fastened or bonded to the subfloor
Berber carpet โ Looped pile running or underlayment.
Cut-pile carpet โ Individual carpet
in parallel lines. Berber carpet has the
fibers woven tightly together. The Floor board โ A strip or plank in a
same color throughout the fibers.
fibers are colored on the outside, but wood floor.
Blindnail โ Driving nails at an angle not on the inside.
Floor tile โ Any type of tile
through the tongues of hardwood
Door casing โ Wood molding and designated for use on floors.
flooring so the next piece of flooring
trim placed around a door opening to
will cover the nail. Floor-warming systems โ A
give it a finished look.
system of heating elements installed
Border โ Wood or tile of a different
Dry-fit โ Installing tile without mortar directly under the floor covering.
color or style than the main floor
to test the layout. Floor-warming systems provide
covering thatโs installed along the
supplemental radiant heat to warm up
edge of a floor or around a design to Dry mix โ Packaged mix, usually sold
a floor.
add a decorative element. in bags, that can be combined with
water to form mortar. Framing member โ A common term
Building code โ A set of building
for a single structural element of a
regulations and ordinances regulating Embossing leveler โ A mortarlike
construction framework, such as a
the way a house can be built or substance used to prepare resilient
stud, joist, truss, or beam.
remodeled. Most building codes are flooring or ceramic tile for use as
controlled by a local municipality. an underlayment.
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Full-spread vinyl โ Sheet vinyl with Perimeter-bond vinyl โ Sheet Sleepers โ Boards placed over a
a felt-paper backing that is secured to vinyl with a PVC backing that is concrete floor and used to support
the underlayment with adhesive. placed directly on underlayment and the subflooring of a new floor.
secured by adhesives along the edges
Grout โ A dry powder, usually Spacers โ Plastic lugs inserted
and seams.
cement-based, that is mixed with between tiles to help maintain
water and pressed into the joints Planks โ Wood or laminate flooring uniform installation during installation.
between tiles. Grout also comes with that is 4โ or more wide.
Stain โ Water-based or oil-based
latex or acrylic additive for greater
Plywood โ A common agent used to penetrate and change
adhesion and impermeability.
underlayment for resilient and the color of a wood floor.
Horizontal span โ The horizontal ceramic tile installations.
Strips โ Wood or laminate flooring
distance a stairway covers.
Portland cement โ A combination of that is less than 4" wide.
Isolation membrane โ A flexible silica, lime, iron, and alumina that has
Subfloor โ The surface, usually
material installed in sheets or been heated, cooled, and pulverized
made of plywood, attached to the
troweled onto an unstable or to form a fine powder from which
floor joists.
damaged base floor or subfloor before mortar products are made.
installing tile. Isolation membrane Tack cloth โ Lint free cloth, usually
PVC โ Acronym for polyvinyl
prevents shifts in the base from cheese cloth, used to clean floors and
chloride. PVC is a rigid plastic material
damaging the tile above. wipe away dust. Tack cloth is treated
that is highly resistant to heat
with a resin to make it sticky.
Jamb โ The top and side pieces and chemicals.
that make up the finished frame of a Tackless strips โ Strips of wood
Reducers โ Strips of wood that
door opening. nailed around the perimeter of a
provide a transition from a hardwood
room. The teeth of the strips hold
Joists โ The framing members that floor to an adjacent floor of
carpet in place.
support the floor. lower height.
Threshold โ The area in a doorway
Latex patching compound โ Reference lines โ Lines marked on
where two floor coverings meet.
Compound used to fill cracks and the subfloor to guide the placement of
chips in old underlayment and to the floor covering. Toenail โ Driving a nail at a 45ยฐ
cover screw or nail heads and seams through the side of one board into the
Rip โ Cutting a piece of wood parallel
in new underlayment. face of another one.
to the grain.
Level โ A line or plane that is parallel Tongue-and-groove flooring โ
Rise โ The height of a step in
to the surface of still water. Wood or laminate floor coverings
a stairway.
that have a tongue and a groove in
Longstrip flooring โ Wood flooring
Riser โ A board attached to the front each individual piece. The flooring is
that has multiple strips, usually
of a step between treads in a stairway. assembled by placing the tongue and
three, fastened together to form a
groove joints together.
single plank. Run โ The length of a step in
a stairway. Underlayment โ Material placed on
Medallion โ Wood or tile design
top of the subfloor, such as plywood,
placed in a floor as a decoration. Sealants โ Product used to protect
fiber/cementboard, cementboard, and
non- and semi-vitreous tile from stains
Miter cut โ An angle cut in the end isolation membrane.
and water damage. Sealants are also
of a piece of flooring or molding.
used to protect grout. Vapor barrier โ Plastic sheeting
Molding โ Decorative strips of wood used as a barrier to keep water from
Sheet vinyl โ Flooring material
installed along walls and floors. a concrete floor from penetrating the
made from vinyl and other plastics in
floor covering installed over it.
Natural stone tile โ Tile cut from the form of sheets that are 6 ft. or 12
marble, slate, granite, or other ft. wide and approximately 1โ8" thick. Waterproofing membrane โ A
natural stone. flexible, waterproof material installed
Sistering โ Fastening a new floor
in sheets or brushed on to protect the
On center โ The distance from the joist to a damaged floor joist for
subfloor from water damage.
center of one framing member to the additional strength.
center of the next.
Glossary โ 267
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Resources
Armstrong World Industries HomerWood Plyboo
717-397-0611 Hardwood Flooring 866-835-9859
www.armstrong.com 814-827-3855 www.plyboo.com
p. 4, 26 (top), 87, 108, 120, 205 www.homerwood.com p. 36 (top), 37 (top)
p. 18 (top), 29 (lower), 35 (top right)
Ceramic Tiles of Italy Room and Board
www.italiatiles.com IKEA Home Furnishings 800-301-9720
p. 19 (top), 19 (lower left), 21 (top), 22 (lower 610-834-0180 www.RoomAndBoard.com
right), 23 (lower), 25 (top and lower), 27 www.Ikea-USA.com p. 24 (top), 30 (lower), 31 (lower), 32 (top), 224
(lower), 28 (lower), 29 (top), 32 (lower), 33 p. 26 (lower left)
(top left and right), 35 (top left and lower) Teragren Fine Bamboo
Kentucky Wood Floors Flooring, Panels & Veneer
Crossville Porcelain Stone 502-451-6024 800-929-6333
931-484-2110 www.kentuckywood.com www.teragren.com
www.crossvilleceramics.com p. 104 p. 22 (top), 131, 132, 133, 134, 135
p. 160
Marmoleum 2nd Wind Exercise Equipment
Eco Friendly 866-Marmoleum 952-544-5249
866-250-3273 www.themarmoleumstore.com www.2ndwind.net
www.ecofriendlyflooring.com p. 20 (lower), 22 (lower left), 23 (top), 28 (top), 7585 Equitable Drive
p. 36 (lower), 38 (lower), 39 (top and lower) 34, 37 (lower) Eden Prairie, MN 55344
p. 116 / treadmill available at 2nd Wind
FLOR MIRAGE Prefinished Hardwood Floors Exercise Equipment
Inspired modular floor covering. 800-463-1303
866-281-3567 www.miragefloors.com
www.flor.com p. 17 (top left), 20 (top), 90
p. 33 (lower), 38 (top)
Oshkosh Designs
Hakatai Enterprises, Inc. 877-582-9977
888-667-2429 www.oshkoshdesigns.com
www.hakatai.com p. 96 (top)
p. 30 (top)
Photo Credits
p. 4 / photo courtesy of Armstrong p. 26 (top) / photo courtesy of Armstrong p. 36 (top) / photo courtesy Plyboo, Woody
p. 16 / photo ยฉ Branko Miokovic (istock) p. 26 (lower left) / photo courtesy of Ikea Harrelson Eco Suite
p. 17 (top left) / photo courtesy of MIRAGE p. 26 (lower right) / photo Dar Yang Yan (istock) p. 36 (lower) / photo courtesy of Eco Friendly
Prefinished Hardwood Floors p. 27 (top) / photo Christopher Hudson (istock) p. 37 (top) / photo Benny Chan Photography,
p. 18 (top) / photo courtesy of HomerWood p. 27 (lower) / photo courtesy of Ceramic Tiles courtesy of Plyboo
p. 18 (lower) / photo ยฉ Brand X Pictures / Alamy of Italy p. 37 (lower) / photo courtesy of Marmoleum
p. 19 (top) / photo courtesy of Ceramic Tiles p. 28 (top) / photo courtesy of Marmoleum p. 38 (top) / photo courtesy of FLOR
of Italy p. 28 (lower) / photo courtesy of Ceramic Tiles p. 38 (lower) / photo courtesy of Eco Friendly
p. 19 (lower left) / photo courtesy of Ceramic of Italy p. 39 (top and lower) / photo courtesy of
Tiles of Italy p. 29 (top) / photo courtesy of Ceramic Tiles Eco Friendly
p. 20 (top) / photo courtesy of MIRAGE of Italy p. 87 / photo courtesy of Armstrong
Prefinished Hardwood Floors p. 29 (lower) / photo courtesy of HomerWood p. 90 / photo courtesy of MIRAGE Prefinished
p. 20 (lower) / photo courtesy of Marmoleum p. 30 (top) / photo courtesy of Hakatai Hardwood Floors
by Forbo Linoleum p. 30 (lower) / photo courtesy of Room and Board p. 96 / photo courtesy of Oshkosh Designs
p. 21 (top) / photo courtesy of Ceramic Tiles p. 31 (top) / photo Teun van den Dries (istock) p. 104 / photo courtesy of Kentucky Wood Floors
of Italy p. 31 (lower) / photo courtesy of Room and Board p. 108 / photo courtesy of Armstrong
p. 21 (lower) / photo ยฉ Inside / Beateworks.com p. 32 (top) / photo courtesy of Room and Board p. 120 / photo courtesy of Armstrong
p. 22 (top) photo courtesy of Teragren p. 32 (lower) / photo courtesy of Ceramic Tiles p. 131, 132, 133, 134, 135 / photos by Steve
p. 22 (lower left) / photo courtesy of Marmoleum of Italy Galvin (Cpi) / Bamboo courtesy of Teragren
p. 22 (lower right) / photo courtesy of Ceramic p. 33 (top left) / photo courtesy of Ceramic p. 160 / photo courtesy of Crossville
Tiles of Italy Tiles of Italy Porcelain Stone
p. 23 (top) / photo courtesy of Marmoleum p. 33 (top right) / photo courtesy of Ceramic p. 166 / photo courtesy of Mohawk Industries
p. 23 (lower) / photo courtesy of Ceramic Tiles Tiles of Italy p. 167 (top) / photo ยฉ Getty Images / Ryan McVay
of Italy p. 33 (lower) / photo courtesy of FLOR p. 167 (lower) / photo ยฉ Getty Images /
p. 24 (top) / photo courtesy of Room and Board p. 34 / photo courtesy of Marmoleum Janis Christie
p. 24 (lower) / photo Richard Hoffkins (istock) p. 35 (top left) / photo courtesy of Ceramic p. 198 / photo M. Eric Honeycutt (istock)
p. 25 (top) / photo courtesy of Ceramic Tiles Tiles of Italy p. 205 / photo courtesy of Armstrong
of Italy p. 35 (top right) / photo courtesy of HomerWood p. 224 / photo courtesy of Room and Board
p. 25 (lower) / photo courtesy of Ceramic Tiles p. 35 (lower) / photo courtesy of Ceramic Tiles
of Italy of Italy
268 โ THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO FLOOR DรCOR
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Conversion Charts
Lumber Dimensions
Nominal - U.S. Actual - U.S. (in inches) Metric Nominal - U.S. Actual - U.S. (in inches) Metric
1ร2 3
โ 4 ร 1 1โ 2 19 ร 38 mm 1 1โ 2 ร 4 1 1โ 4 ร 3 1โ 2 32 ร 89 mm
1ร3 3
โ 4 ร 2 1โ 2 19 ร 64 mm 1 1โ 2 ร 6 1 1โ 4 ร 5 1โ 2 32 ร 140 mm
1ร4 3
โ 4 ร 3 1โ 2 19 ร 89 mm 1 1โ 2 ร 8 1 1โ 4 ร 7 1โ 4 32 ร 184 mm
1ร5 3
โ 4 ร 4 1โ 2 19 ร 114 mm 11โ2 ร 10 1 1โ 4 ร 9 1โ 4 32 ร 235 mm
1ร6 3
โ 4 ร 5 1โ 2 19 ร 140 mm 11โ2 ร 12 11โ4 ร 111โ4 32 ร 286 mm
1ร7 3
โ 4 ร 6 1โ 4 19 ร 159 mm 2ร4 1 1โ 2 ร 3 1โ 2 38 ร 89 mm
1ร8 3
โ 4 ร 7 1โ 4 19 ร 184 mm 2ร6 1 1โ 2 ร 5 1โ 2 38 ร 140 mm
1 ร 10 3
โ 4 ร 9 1โ 4 19 ร 235 mm 2ร8 1 1โ 2 ร 7 1โ 4 38 ร 184 mm
1 ร 12 3
โ4 ร 111โ4 19 ร 286 mm 2 ร 10 1 1โ 2 ร 9 1โ 4 38 ร 235 mm
1 1โ 4 ร 4 1 ร 3 1โ 2 25 ร 89 mm 2 ร 12 11โ2 ร 111โ4 38 ร 286 mm
1 1โ 4 ร 6 1 ร 5 1โ 2 25 ร 140 mm 3ร6 2 1โ 2 ร 5 1โ 2 64 ร 140 mm
1 1โ 4 ร 8 1 ร 7 1โ 4 25 ร 184 mm 4ร4 3 1โ 2 ร 3 1โ 2 89 ร 89 mm
11โ4 ร 10 1 ร 9 1โ 4 25 ร 235 mm 4ร6 3 1โ 2 ร 5 1โ 2 89 ร 140 mm
11โ4 ร 12 1 ร 111โ4 25 ร 286 mm
Metric Conversions
To Convert: To: Multiply by: To Convert: To: Multiply by:
Inches Millimeters 25.4 Millimeters Inches 0.039
Inches Centimeters 25.4 Centimeters Inches 0.394
Feet Meters 0.305 Meters Feet 3.28
Yards Meters 0.914 Meters Yards 1.09
Square inches Square centimeters 6.45 Square centimeters Square inches 0.155
Square feet Square meters 0.093 Square meters Square feet 10.8
Square yards Square meters 0.836 Square meters Square yards 1.2
Ounces Milliliters 30.0 Milliliters Ounces .033
Pints (U.S.) Liters 0.473 (lmp. 0.568) Liters Pints (U.S.) 2.114 (lmp. 1.76)
Quarts (U.S.) Liters 0.946 (lmp. 1.136) Liters Quarts (U.S.) 1.057 (lmp. 0.88)
Gallons (U.S.) Liters 3.785 (lmp. 4.546) Liters Gallons (U.S.) 0.264 (lmp. 0.22)
Ounces Grams 28.4 Grams Ounces 0.035
Pounds Kilograms 0.454 Kilograms Pounds 2.2
Counterbore, Shank & Pilot Hole Diameters
Screw Counterbore Diameter for Clearance Hole for Pilot Hole Diameter
Size Screw Head (in inches) Screw Shank (in inches) Hard Wood (in inches) Soft Wood (in inches)
#1 .146 ( โ64)
9 5
โ64 3
โ64 1
โ32
#2 1
โ4 3
โ32 3
โ64 1
โ32
#3 1
โ4 7
โ64 1
โ16 3
โ64
#4 1
โ4 1
โ8 1
โ16 3
โ64
#5 1
โ4 1
โ8 5
โ64 1
โ16
#6 5
โ16 9
โ64 3
โ32 5
โ64
#7 5
โ16 5
โ32 3
โ32 5
โ64
#8 3
โ8 11
โ64 1
โ8 3
โ32
#9 3
โ8 11
โ64 1
โ8 3
โ32
#10 3
โ8 3
โ16 1
โ8 7
โ64
#11 1
โ2 3
โ16 5
โ32 9
โ64
#12 1
โ2 7
โ32 9
โ64 1
โ8
Index โ 269
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Index
A Carpet squares E
Aged finishes, 205, 208 advantages, 15, 38 Electrical codes, 74
Air bubbles under sheet resilient design ideas, 38 Evaluating existing floor, 11โ13
flooring, 13 installing, 194โ197
Asbestos Cementboard underlayment F
removing underlayment and, 50 advantages, 58 Faux stone tiles designs, creating,
in resilient flooring, 11, 254 installing, 60 216โ219
Attics, building floors for, 70โ73 Centerpoint, finding, 82โ83 Finishes for wood floors
Ceramic tiles applying aged & distressed, 208
B advantages & disadvantages, 15, applying stains to bare floor, 207
Bamboo 32, 33, 126 identifying, 242
advantages, 36 combined with resilient flooring, 32 overview of, 205
installing planks, 130โ134 cracks in grout, 13 before painting, 210
Baseboards, installing, 241 design ideas, 19, 21, 30 stain variations, 206
Basement floors durability, 7 Floating floors
ideas for, 140 evaluating as foundation, 12, 13 establishing reference lines for
preparing, 66โ69 installing, 149โ155 installing, 82โ83
Bathroom ideas, 19, 21, 22, 23, 26, base trim, 156โ157 installing floor-warming systems,
28, 29, 30, 108, 126 cutting, 147โ148 74โ77
Bedroom ideas, 24, 28 overview of, 145 see also Laminate flooring
Borders tools & materials for, 146, 148 Floorboards, replacing wood, 244โ249
installing, 160โ162, 165 installing floor-warming systems, Floor coverings
painting decorative, 220โ222 74โ77 choosing, 14โ15
Buckling, repairing in hardwood removing old, 48 removing old, 44โ49
flooring, 13 replacing, 260โ262 Floor designs, painting
Burns, carpet repairs for, 258 underlayment for, 58, 145, 260 checkerboard pattern, 213โ214
Checkerboard pattern, painting on decorative borders, 220โ222
C wood floors, 213โ214 faux stone tiles, 216โ219
Carpet Colorwashing, 205 floor cloths, 215
advantages, 31, 32, 166 Combination tiles, installing, nature prints, 223
characteristics of different 126โ129 Floors
materials, 168 Concrete floors elements of, 10
construction, 169 disadvantages, 31 establishing reference lines for
design ideas, 17, 21, 27, 167 painting, 229โ231 installing, 82โ83
durability, 32 patching, 67 Floor-warming systems, installing,
eliminating squeaks in floors raised underlayment panels for, 74โ77
under, 235 64 Foyer ideas, 19, 33
evaluating as foundation, 12 repairing cracks, 263โ265
gluing loose seams, 259 sealing, 224โ228 G
installing Cork flooring Glass tiles
cutting & seaming for, 181โ186 advantages, 36 design ideas, 22
padding, 180 installing tiles, 136โ139 installing, 158โ159
on stairs, 171, 190โ193 Cushion-backed carpet, 169
stretching & securing, 187โ190 Cut-pile carpet, 15, 169 H
tackless strips, 178โ179 Hardwood flooring
tools & materials for, 172โ175 D advantages & disadvantages, 87
padding, 173, 180 Decorative borders, painting, cleaning, 242
planning & layout, 170โ171 220โ222 durability, 35
removing old, 49 Design considerations, 16, 18 eliminating squeaks, 234โ235
repairing spot damage, 258 Distressed finishes, applying, 208 evaluating as foundation, 12, 13
restretching loose, 259 Door casings, cutting, 86 finishes for
transitions, 176โ177 Dry-backed resilient tiles, installing, applying aged & distressed, 208
Carpet rolls, 15 122โ124 applying stains to bare floor, 207
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identifying, 242 using adhesives, 102 Plush carpet, 169
overview of, 205 working around obstacles, 101 Plywood underlayment, installing,
before painting, 210 woodgrain design ideas, 22 59
stain variations, 206 Latex compound, 58 Polyurethane finish, 210
installing Layout lines, 120 Power stretchers, 174, 175
cutting, 89 Leather flooring, advantages & Primers, 210
medallions, 96โ97 disadvantages, 35
parquet, 104โ107 Linoleum Q
tongue-and-groove using advantages & disadvantages, 34, 37 Quarry tiles, 33
adhesive, 94โ95 cleaning, 34
tongue-and-groove using nails, Loop-pile carpet, 15, 169 R
90โ93 Recycled materials
tools for, 88 M flooring from, 38โ39, 194
from reclaimed wood, 39 Materials installing recycled rubber tiles,
refinishing, 201โ203 estimating amount needed, 8, 43 140โ144
chemically stripping, 204 of carpeting, 170โ171 Reference lines, 82โ83, 120, 121
supplies & tools for, 200 of resilient flooring, 109 Resilient flooring
removing stains, 242, 243 for installing ceramic & stone advantages & disadvantages, 14,
repairing tiles, 146 126
buckling, 13 for refinishing hardwood floors, asbestos in, 11, 254
prefinished, 242 200 combined with ceramic tiles, 32
replacing damaged floorboards, Measuring, 43 design ideas, 20
244โ249 Medallions, 19, 96โ97 establishing reference lines for,
replacing large sections, 252โ253 Metal carpet bars, making 120โ121
scratches & small holes, 243, 251 transitions with, 177 evaluating as foundation, 12, 13
splinters, 250 Moisture installing floor-warming systems
using rugs with, 30 bamboo flooring and, 130 under, 74โ77
see also Wood floors damage from, 233 sheet vinyl
Holes in wood floors, repairing small, testing for, 66 air bubbles under, 13
243, 251 Moldings installing, 110
replacing trim, 240โ241 adhesives for, 108
I types of, 86 cutting templates, 111
In-floor electrical outlets, installing, Mosaic glass tiles, installing, 158โ159 estimating amount needed,
78โ79 109
Isolation membranes N full-spread, 115
for ceramic tile flooring, 145 Natural stone tile, underlayment for, perimeter-bond, 112โ114
installing, 61 58 tools for, 109
Nature prints, creating, 223 removing for surface
J Noise preparation, 47
Joists concrete reflects, 31 repairing, 254โ256
adding sister, 71 reducing tiles
alternatives for attic floors, 70โ72 with carpet, 31, 166 advantages, 35
repairing, 54โ55 with cork tile, 136 grain in, 120
squeaks and, 234โ235 with soundproofing installing dry-backed, 122โ124
underlayment, 62โ63 installing self-adhesive, 125
K removing old, 48
Kitchen ideas, 20, 22, 25, 33, 36, 126 P replacing, 257
Knee kickers, 174 Padding for carpet, 173, 180 types of backings, 109
Palm, advantages of, 37 underlayment for, 58
L Parquet flooring, installing, 104โ107 Rubber roll, installing, 116โ119
Laminate flooring Planning Rubber tiles
advantages & disadvantages, 14 considerations & checklist, 8 installing, 140โ144
installing, 98โ100, 103 evaluating existing floor, 11โ13 from recycled materials, 38
floor-warming systems, 74โ77 measuring room, 43 Rugs, using, 23, 30, 33
thresholds & moldings, 86 starting point, 82โ83
Index โ 271
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S T V
Safety Tackless strips, making transitions Velvet cut-pile carpet, 169
asbestos cautions with, 177 Vinyl flooring. See Resilient flooring
in resilient flooring, 11 Thresholds, 86 Vinyl tiles. See Resilient flooring
in vinyl tiles, 254 Tiles
when removing underlayment, creating faux stone, 216โ219 W
50 design ideas, 25, 27 Walls, checking for square, 84
equipment, 57 evaluating condition of, 13 Wet saws, 148
staircase problems and, 236, installing Wood floors
238โ239 borders, 160โ162 advantages & disadvantages, 7, 14
when replacing ceramic tiles, 260 combination, 126โ129 design ideas, 17, 19, 20, 22, 29
when stripping hardwood floors, cork, 136โ139 eliminating squeaks, 234โ235
204 establishing reference lines for, installing
Saxony cut-pile carpet, 169 82โ83 establishing reference lines for,
Scratches laying patterns 82โ83
patching in wood floors, 243 diagonal with perpendicular floor-warming systems under,
repairing in vinyl flooring, 254 border, 165 74โ77
Sealers, 210 hexagonal, 164 thresholds & moldings, 86
Self-adhesive resilient tiles, running-bond tile, 163 painting, 212
installing, 125 natural stone, 58 overview of, 209
Shag carpet, 167 quarry, 33 patterns
Sheet rubber flooring, installing, removing for surface preparation, checkerboard, 213โ214
116โ119 48 decorative borders, 220โ222
Sheet vinyl. See Resilient flooring rubber floor cloths, 215
Splinters, repairing, 250 installing, 140โ144 nature prints, 223
Squeaks from recycled materials, 38 preparation for, 211
eliminating floor, 234โ235 see also Ceramic tiles; Resilient stains & finishes for
eliminating stair, 236โ237 flooring applying aged & distressed, 208
Squeeeeek No More, 235 Tile saws, 148 applying stains to bare floor, 207
Stains (discolorations), removing Tools identifying, 242
from carpet, 258 for eliminating squeaks in overview of, 205
from wood floors, 242, 243 carpeted floors, 235 before painting, 210
Stains & finishes for wood floors for flooring removal and surface stain variations, 206
applying aged & distressed, 208 preparation, 42 see also Hardwood flooring;
applying stains to bare floor, 207 for installing carpets, 172โ175 Laminate flooring
identifying, 242 for installing ceramic & stone
overview of, 205 tiles, 146, 148
before painting, 210 for installing hardwood flooring, 88
stain variations, 206 for installing resilient flooring, 109
Staircases for refinishing hardwood floors, 200
eliminating squeaks, 236โ237 Trim moldings, replacing, 240โ241
installing carpet on, 171, 191โ193
replacing broken treads, 238โ239 U
Stone tiles. See Ceramic tiles Underlayment
Subfloor asbestos cautions, 50
bamboo flooring and, 130โ135 for ceramic tile flooring, 58, 145,
building attic, 73 260
building basement, 68โ69 for concrete floors, 64
described, 10 described, 10
evaluating as foundation, 12 evaluating as foundation, 12
repairing, 52โ53 installing, 58
Surface preparation cementboard, 60
removing isolation membranes, 61
carpet, 49 over existing flooring, 11
old flooring, 44โ46 plywood, 59
sheet vinyl, 47 raised panels, 64โ65
tiles, 48 soundproofing, 62โ63
underlayment, 50โ51 for natural stone tiles, 58
repairing removing old, 50โ51
joists, 54โ55 for resilient flooring, 58
subfloor, 52โ53 reusing existing flooring as, 58
272 โ THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO FLOOR DรCOR
CGFD_238-272_.indd 272 CG TO FLOOR DECOR - (PROV-CPI) 6/5/07 10:14:56 AM TB D607-01 / 4271
Fabulous Floors Are Yours!
The Complete Guide
FLOOR
to Floor Dรฉcor
is your comprehensive source of inspi-
ration and information for designing,
planning, installing and repairing all
types of flooring throughout your home.
Opening with a complete chapter on
THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO
planning, the book leads you through an
in-depth preparation and layout section,
then into the most detailed instructions
for installation found in any book. From
traditional linoleum and hardwood
to space-age glass tiles and polished
DECOR
concrete, every possible type of flooring Beautiful, Long-lasting
material is included in these pages. Floors You Can
Design & Install
THIS BOOK INCLUDES:
โข Complete information on all traditional
flooring materials
FLOOR DรCOR
โข Decorative color treatments for concrete
using acid staining techniques
โข Installation of โgreenโ flooring
materials, like bamboo planks
โข Information on using beautiful and
comfortable cork tiles
โข Installation instructions for recycled
rubber tile
โข Quick and easy carpet installations using
carpet tiles
CATEGORY: HOME IMPROVEMENT ISBN โ 13: 978-1-58923-332-4
ISBN โ 10: 1-58923-332-8
$24.95 US
EAN
UPC
ยฃ16.99 UK
$29.95 CAN
www.creativepub.com
NEW
& REVISED
Provision CPI*Home To Floor Decor
CGFD coverV3 donnelley_.indd 1 7/2/07 1:25:27 PM CD707-2 / 4150
Rather have me do it?
New floors transform a room. I install them right.