Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Garages - Includes - Building a New Garage, Repairing

Spectacular design highlights this garage that makes a bold statement. The mirrored designs on the doors and the gable, and the natural colors, situate the garage perfectly in its Pacific Northwest environment.

Exploit an existing attached garage structure to add separate living space. This two-car garage is seamlessly blended with the architecture of the house, and an efficiency apartment has been added as a second story over the garage, leveraging the preexisting foundation and framed structure.

Match garage doors to the home’s architectural style for big visual impact. These classic wood garage doors with raised panels and lites perfectly complement the contemporary brick home with its Craftsman-style touches. Not to mention, the doors are beautiful in their own right.

Make sure your garage storage doesn’t look cluttered. Integrate a mix of cabinets, slat-wall storage, and overhead racks as this homeowner did, and the jumbled, crowded look of the originally organized space now looks both organized and tidy.

Customize your garage storage with specialty wall-mounted racks and cabinets. The system in this garage illustrates how varied this type of storage can be.

Adapt your garage to your particular storage needs. Today’s marketplace offers specialized storage for the garage, allowing you to use the space for sporting goods, tools, equipment, and anything else you might possibly want to store in the structure.

Add high style to the garage with a modern storage system that delivers looks and capacity. Upscale storage systems such as this include mix-and-match components that allow you to customize your storage with a look that screams custom-built.

Accommodate exactly what you need to store with a modern slat-wall storage system. The manufacturers of these useful products have developed hooks, hangers, and shelves that are incredibly specific—offering storage for anything from a set of wrenches to a mountain bike.

Light for the best possible view. The LED fixture in this garage shines a bright white light that sharpens detail and makes doing anything in the space easier and safer.

Accent detached garages to give them a strong identity and beautify the property. The wood-paneled doors, door lites, and detailed lighting fixtures of this detached garage give it as much character as the home itself.

Combine looks and modern technology for an efficient and durable garage door that complements the home. This wood-toned metal door is a strong security feature, but its design also blends seamlessly with a modern Asian aesthetic.

Add moveable cabinetry with accents such as the backsplash track wall shown here for flexible storage options right where you need them.

Use wire shelving with adjustable racks for a low-cost storage option—and one that is perfect for holding odd shapes and unusual combinations of items.

Exploit corners in the garage. Specially made cabinetry like this provides not only accessible storage in the space but also adds a corner work surface.

Fool the eye for a unique effect. The carriage-style doors on this garage may look like they open out, but this is actually an overhead steel garage door. The windows add light and style, and the faux hinges put the icing on the cake of the illusion.

In this chapter:

• Making Plans

• Building the Foundation

• Framing & Raising Walls

A complete plan for building your garage starts with detailed construction drawings. Based on your drawings, break the project into smaller tasks and try to estimate how long each phase will take and whether you will need to enlist help.

A concrete slab with an adjoining concrete apron and driveway is the most common garage foundation setup.

A plan view of the slab should include J-bolt locations, door locations, and footing sizes. Also indicate the overall dimensions and the direction and height of the floor pitch.

The garage slab cannot simply float on the ground. It requires footings around the perimeter. For detached garages, an 8 × 16” footing will comply with most local codes. For attached garages, the footings must extend past the frostline. In both cases, an ample layer of drainage rock is required to help minimize movement from freezing and thawing.

Excavate the area about 2’ wider and longer than the staked size of the slab. The poured slab should slope 2” total from the back wall to the overhead door wall to facilitate drainage. Remove 3 to 4” of soil from the excavation area, and dig a deeper trench around the perimeter for the footing. The outside of the footing should line up with the mason’s lines. Slope the soil to create a transition between the excavated interior and the footing. Check your local building codes to determine the correct footing size and depth for your climate and soil conditions.

Fill the excavation area with 4” of compactable gravel, letting it spill down into the 12”-deep footings that frame the perimeter. Tamp the gravel level and smooth it with a rented plate compactor. The gravel surface should maintain the 2” total back-to-front slope. Depending on your soil conditions, some concrete contractors recommend laying 6-mil polyethylene sheeting over the compacted base to form a moisture barrier.

TIP: Install electrical conduit underneath the slab if you will be providing underground electrical service.

Build a form for pouring the slab using 2 × 8 lumber or strips of exterior-rated plywood. The inside dimensions of the form should match the final slab size. If necessary on long runs, join the lumber end-to-end, reinforcing the butt joints with metal mending plates screwed to the outside surfaces. Fasten the form pieces together at the corners with 3” deck screws. Position the form so it aligns with the mason’s lines. The form should also follow the 2” total back-to-front slope.

Drive wood stakes along the outsides of the form at 4’ intervals. Place two stakes at each corner. Set the tops of the stakes flush with the top edges of the form (or slightly below the tops). As you drive the stakes, periodically check the form for level and measure from corner to corner to ensure that it’s square. Measure down from the mason’s lines to position the form 4” above grade. Attach the stakes to the form with deck screws to hold the form in place.

Add re-wire reinforcement according to the requirements in your area. Here, rows of 6 × 6 10/10 wire mesh are set onto bolsters (chunks of brick) in the pour area. Overlap the sheets of mesh by 6”, and stop the rows about 2” in from the insides of the form. Fasten the mesh together with wire tie.

OPTION: Reinforce the footings by laying out two rows of #4 rebar 2” above the bottom of the trench by wire-tying it to shorter pieces of rebar driven into the gravel. Space the rows about 4” apart. You’ll need to dig out the gravel to accomplish this.

Pour the concrete. Have ready-mix concrete delivered to your job site and place it into the forms with wheelbarrows and shovels (make sure to have plenty of help for this job). Fill the form with concrete, starting at one end. Use a shovel to settle the concrete around the reinforcement and to remove air pockets. Fill the form to the top.

NOTE: In most municipalities you must have the forms and subbase inspected before the concrete is poured.

Strike off the concrete once a section of a form is filled. The best way to do this is to have two helpers strike off (screed) the wet concrete with a long 2 × 6 or 2 × 8 that spans the width of the form. Drag the screed board back and forth along the top of the form in a sawing motion to level and smooth the concrete. Fill any voids ahead of the screed board with shovelfuls of concrete.

Smooth the surface further with a bull float as soon as you’re finished screeding, working across the width of the slab. Floating forces aggregate down and draws sand and water to the surface to begin the smoothing process.

Push J-bolts down into the concrete, wiggling them slightly to eliminate air pockets. Twist the bottom hooked ends so they face into the slab. Position the J-bolts 13/4” from the edges of the slab, aligned with your layout marks. Leave 21/2” of bolt thread exposed, and make sure the J-bolts are plumb. Smooth the surrounding concrete with a wooden or magnesium concrete float.

Use a magnesium or wood hand-held float to refine the slab’s finished surface as soon as the bleed water evaporates (see Bleed Water, left). Work the float back and forth, starting from the middle of the slab and moving outward to the edges. Use large scraps of 2”-thick rigid foam insulation as kneeling pads while you work.

Apply a coat of cure and seal product (See Resources) to the surface once it dries so you do not have to water the concrete surface during the curing stage. After a couple of days, strip off the forms. Wait at least one more day before you begin building on the slab.

Raising the garage walls is an exciting time in your project, as the structure begins to emerge rapidly with relatively little effort.

Drill guide holes for J-bolts. Make a tick mark on the J-bolt layout marks 13/4” in from the outside edge of the bottom wall plates to determine where to drill the J-bolt through-holes. Drill through the bottom plate at each hole location with a 5/8” or 3/4” spade bit to allow some room for adjusting the plate on the slab. Slip a backer board beneath the workpiece before finishing the hole.

Make plates for the through walls: Cut a cap plate for the first wall so its length matches the sole plate. Stand both plates on edge and line up the ends. If the first wall is a through wall, make marks at 11/2” and 3” to indicate the end stud and extra corner stud. Mark the next stud at 151/4” according to your stud layout. Step off the remaining studs at 16” on center. Mark double studs at the opposite end of the wall. Draw Xs to the side of each of these marks to designate on which side of the marks the studs should go. Extend these stud layout marks across both edges of the cap and sole plates.

Make plates for butt walls: For laying out the stud spacing on butt walls, the end studs will be aligned with the ends of the top and bottom plates. Mark the second stud 151/4” from the plate ends, and step off the rest of the studs at 16” on center. Extend the lines across both wall plates and draw Xs to the right of your stud marks.

Cut wall studs to length. Select the number of studs you’ll need to build the first wall, and sight down their edges to make sure they’re straight. Inspect for deep end checks or loose knots (a check is a lengthwise separation of the wood; an end check is one occurring on an end of a piece). Set defective studs aside for use as blocking. For the single garage shown here, cut the studs to 7’, 85/8” (925/8”).

Assemble the back wall. Position the marked wall plates about 8’ apart with the stud markings facing up. Lay out the studs between the plates, and start by nailing the bottom plate to the wall studs with pairs of 16d galvanized common nails or pneumatic framing nails. Make sure the edges of the studs and plates are flush and the studs line up with their layout marks on the plate. Drive two nails through the plate into the stud ends to secure them. Nail the top plate to the studs the same way.

Add end blocking for through wall. Cut three 12” lengths of 2 × 4s to serve as blocking between the end and second studs on through walls. Space the blocking evenly top to bottom along the inside face of the end studs. Nail the blocking in place.

Nail blocking stud in place. Butt the second stud against the blocking, and nail the top and bottom plates to it. Drive more nails through the second stud and into the blocking.

Square up the wall. Check the wall for squareness by measuring from corner to corner and comparing the diagonals (see here). If the measurements are not equal, push the longer-dimension corners inward as needed until the diagonals are the same.

Install temporary bracing. Once the wall is square, install a temporary 1 × 4 brace across the wall plates and studs to stabilize the wall and keep it square. Use deck screws or 8d nails to tack the brace diagonally across the wall, driving two fasteners into the top and bottom plates and one nail into every other stud. Leave these braces in place until the walls are ready to be sheathed.

Set up the back wall. Before standing the first wall up, nail a temporary brace to each end stud to hold the wall in position after it is raised. Drive one 16d nail through the brace and into the end stud about 7’ up from the bottom plate to act as a pivot. Tip the wall up and onto the J-bolts with the aid of a helper. Swing the end braces out into the yard, and attach them to stakes in the ground. Check the wall for plumb with a long level held against the studs before fixing the braces to the stakes. Erect any adjoining walls that do not have window or door openings.

Anchor the wall plates. Use a hammer to tap the bottom plate into final position on the slab, and attach it to the J-bolts with galvanized washers and nuts.

Mark window and door openings. For walls with windows or a service door, mark the positions of king and jack studs when you are laying out the top and bottom plates. Identify these studs with a K or J instead of an X to keep them clear. Mark the cripple studs with a C as well.

Frame window and door openings. Measure and cut the jack studs to length following your garage plans. For either window or door jack studs, make the jack stud length equal to the height of the rough opening minus 11/2” for the bottom plate (door framing) or 3” for a double rough sill (window framing). Facenail the jack studs to the king studs with 10d common nails spaced every 12”.

Make the headers. The header seen here is assembled from doubled-up 2 × 8 lumber sandwiched around a piece of 1/2” plywood sized to match. Fasten the header pieces together with wavy beads of construction adhesive and 16d nails spaced every 12”. Make sure the ends and edges are aligned. Drive the nails at a slight angle to keep them from protruding, and nail from both sides of the header.

Install the headers. Set the headers in position on top of the jack studs and drive 16d nails through the king studs and into the ends of the header to fasten it in place. Use six nails (three per end) for 2 × 8 headers.

Install cripple studs above. First, cut the cripple studs to fit between the header and the wall’s top plate, and then toenail them in place with three 8d nails on each end. Drive two nails through one face and one nail through the center of the opposite face.

Install cripple studs below. When framing for a window, measure down from the bottom edge of the header to position the rough sill and establish the rough opening dimensions. Cut two rough sill pieces to length from 2 × 4s and facenail them together with 10d nails. Toenail the sill to the jack studs with 16d nails. Cut and nail cripple studs between the rough sill and the wall’s bottom plate to complete the window framing.

Join wall sections. For long walls, your garage plans may require you to build the wall in two sections and nail these together before erecting the wall. Facenail the wall sections with pairs of 8d nails spaced every 12” along the adjacent end-wall studs.

Raise window/door wall. You’ll need three or four helpers to tilt the heavy wall up and into position on the slab. Adjust the wall as needed so it butts against the short wall and lines up properly on the slab. Check the wall for plumb along several studs, and attach a temporary staked brace to the unsupported end. Install washers and nuts on the J-bolts to fasten the wall to the slab.

Nail walls together. Drive 16d nails through the end stud of the butted wall into the end studs and blocking of the through wall. Space these nails every 12” along the length of the walls. Prior to nailing the second long wall, you can remove the temporary brace and stake that hold the back wall in position.

Assemble the garage door wall. Follow the instructions in your garage plans to assemble the front wall and the sectional garage door rough framing. Sectional garage doors typically have a doubled-up 2 × 12 header sandwiching a piece of 1/2”-thick plywood. Build the header just as you would a window or service door header. The header will be supported by double jack studs. This wall may or may not have a continuous top wall plate and cripple studs above the header, depending on the height of your garage walls.

Position the front wall. Remove temporary braces and stakes supporting the front and side walls, then tip the front wall up and into position against the side walls. Line up the ends of the side walls with the front wall, and nail the walls together through the end studs with 16d nails. Install washers and nuts on the front wall J-bolts.

Test walls for flatness. Check the long walls for bowing by tacking a scrap block of 2 × 4 at the top outside corner of each wall. Drive another nail partially into these blocks, and then string a mason’s line between the nails. Pull the line taut, and measure the distance between the string and the wall’s top plate. The distance should be 11/2” all along the wall.

Lock the walls together. Cut top plates to length from 2 × 4s to make tie plates. Make the through-wall tie plates 7” shorter than the through-wall top plate 31/2” on each side. Cut the tie plates for butted walls 7” longer than the butt-wall top plate. This way, the double top plates on butted walls will overlap the through-wall top plates, locking the walls together. Facenail all four tie plates to the wall top plates with 10d nails. Drive two nails in the overlapped corners, then single nails every 16” along the plates.

Cut out the threshold. Cut away the bottom plate from the rough opening of the service door with a reciprocating saw with the blade installed upside down. Make these cuts flush with the edge of the jack studs so the door jamb will fit properly in the opening.

Frame the overhead door opening. Facenail a 2 × 6 around each side and the top to frame the sectional garage door rough opening on the inside face of the front wall. These boards form blocking for installing the garage door and garage door opener later. Position the blocking flush with the faces of the jack studs and the bottom edge of the door header. Fasten the blocking with 10d nails. Wait until you are preparing to install the door to install trimboards and stop molding.

NOTE: If you have already purchased your sectional garage door, check the door opening requirements in the installation manual and compare them to these instructions before proceeding with this step.

A system of rafters, ridgeboard, and collar ties creates the framework for this garage’s simple gable-style roof. Rafters are a traditional, sturdy, and economical option for this project, but custom-built trusses are another viable option.

This template may be used as a guide for laying out the birdsmouth cuts on the rafter ends for the garage project seen here.

Metal rafter ties add strength to the connection between the rafter and the top plate of your garage walls. They also help with alignment and minimize any splintering of the rafter caused by toenailing. In some areas of the country where hurricanes and tornadoes are common, metal rafter ties are required by local codes.

Check the fit. Set your pattern rafters in position on top of the side walls with a 2 × 8 spacer block tacked between them to represent the ridgeboard. You’ll know you have a good fit if the top angled ridge cuts meet the ridgeboard flush and the birdsmouth cuts sit flush on the wall plates. Have a helper position and check the fit of these parts. Adjust the angles, if necessary, to improve the fit of the parts.

Cut all the rafters. Use the pattern rafter to trace the plumb cuts and birdsmouth onto the workpieces for all of the rafters. Set the cutting angle on your power miter saw to match the plumb cut and cut each rafter at the cutting lines. Then, finish the rafters by cutting the birdsmouths with a jigsaw, or circular saw and handsaw.

Plot the rafter locations. Mark the location of each rafter on the doubled top plates. The rafters begin at the ends of the walls, and the intermediate rafters should line up over the wall studs that are spaced 16” on center. Use a speed square to extend a rafter layout line up from each wall stud layout line to the top plate. Mark an X next to the line to indicate which side of the line the rafter should go. Mark the position of all the rafters.

Install rafter ties. If building codes in your area require it, or if you simply want a stronger structure, nail metal rafter connector plates (often called rafter ties) to the wall top plates before installing the rafters.

Mark the ridgeboard. Select a straight, flat 2 × 8 for the ridgeboard. It should be several feet longer than the roof length. Lay the board face-down over the tops of the end walls and flush against a side wall. Adjust the ridgeboard so it overhangs the end walls evenly. Use a square to transfer the rafter layout lines and X marks from the wall double top plate to the ridgeboard. Then, flip the ridgeboard over and mark the rafter locations on the opposite face.

Install the ridgeboard. To make it easier to begin the rafter installation, nail the first two end rafters to the ridgeboard before lifting them into place on the walls. Facenail the ridgeboard to one end rafter through the top plumb cut with three 16d nails. Make sure the rafter is properly lined up with the ridgeboard layout line. Toenail the opposite rafter to the ridgeboard. Then, with several helpers lift the end rafters and ridgeboard into position on the wall plates. Have a helper hold up the opposite end of the ridgeboard while you toenail the end rafters to the wall plates.

Install a temporary brace. Toenail a temporary 2 × 4 brace vertically to the opposite end wall. Choose a brace longer than the roof will be high. Rest the ridgeboard against the brace and adjust it until it is level. Use 10d nails to nail the ridgeboard temporarily to the brace to hold it in position.

Install the rest of the rafters. With the ridgeboard braced and leveled, fit and install the rest of the rafters, fastening them with 16d nails. Toenail the rafters to the metal rafter ties at birdsmouths, and either facenail or toenail the rafters to the ridgeboard, depending on which rafter you are installing for each pair. Check the ridgeboard periodically for level as you work. When you reach the opposite end of the roof, remove the temporary ridge brace and install the end rafters.

Install collar ties. Follow your garage plans to lay out and cut collar ties to size. Collar ties prevent the garage walls from spreading apart under roof loads. Angle-cut the top ends of each collar tie if necessary to match the roof slope. Install the collar ties by facenailing them to the rafters with three 10d nails at each end.

Install gable top plates. On the gable ends of the roof, you’ll need to install additional studs under the rafters to provide nailing surfaces for wall sheathing. Start by cutting a pair of 2 × 4 gable wall top plates that will extend from the sides of the ridgeboard down to the wall double top plates.

Lay out and install gable studs. These should be positioned by holding a long level against the wall studs and transferring layout lines to the edges of the gable top plates. Plan for a gable stud to line up over each wall stud. Cut the gable studs to fit and toenail them to the gable and wall top plates.

Install lookouts. Follow your plans to lay out the locations of the lookout blocking that will form gable overhangs on the roof. Cut the blocking to size, and facenail through the end rafters to install it to the outside faces of the end rafters. Make sure the top edges of the blocking and rafters are flush before driving the nails. Also mark the gable overhang length on each end of the ridgeboard, and cut it to final length with a circular saw or handsaw.

Complete the overhang. Lay out and cut the gable overhang rafters to size and shape using your pattern rafter as a template.

NOTE: Gable end rafters do not have birdsmouths. Nail these rafters to the lookout blocking and ridgeboard to complete the roof framing.

Secure the trusses to the walls with metal truss ties or rafter ties. These are required in high-wind areas but are a good idea anywhere because they strengthen the roof and help in alignment.

Toenail trusses to wall plates with 16d nails. Typically, the two end trusses are installed first and then a mason’s line is stretched between the tails of the top chords to use as an alignment reference. A temporary brace with truss spacing marked to match the wall plates is installed as you go to stabilize the trusses and create the correct spacing. Remove the brace before installing the roof decking.

Wall sheathing stiffens building wall framing and creates a uniform backing for siding and trim. A layer of building paper or housewrap seals the sheathing from moisture infiltration.

Install the first sheet. Position the first full sheet of OSB sheathing in one corner so the top edge lines up with the chalk line. One end of the sheet should align with the edge of the framed wall and the other should fall midway across a stud. Attach the sheathing with 6d common nails. Space the nails every 6” around the perimeter and every 12” at the intermediate studs. Before nailing, snap chalk lines across the sheet to show the centerlines of every wall stud. Install all first-course panels.

NOTE: Go ahead and sheath over door and window openings. You can cut out the sheathing later.

Install the second course. Begin this course with a half sheet of OSB to establish a staggered pattern. Snap chalk lines across this sheet, too, to show nailing locations of studs. If necessary, trim the second-course panels so the tops are flush with the top edges of the wall-cap plate. Maintain a gap of 1/8” between the first and second course panels to allow for expansion and contraction (6d nails can be used as spacers between panels).

Mark the door and window openings. Drill through the sheathing at all corners of the door and window openings (you can drive nails if you prefer), and then connect the holes (or nails) with straight cutting lines.

Cut out the door and window openings, using a reciprocating saw. Cut carefully so the sheathing does not extend into the opening.

Sheath the next wall frame. The panels for the adjoining wall should overlap the ends of the panels on the first wall without extending beyond them. Complete installing full panels on all four walls.

Install sheathing in gable areas. After the first courses are installed on the walls with roof gables, lay out and cut second-course panels that follow the eave line. Mark stud locations and attach these gable sheathing panels with 6d nails, maintaining 1/8” gaps between panels.

Begin installing housewrap. Begin at the bottom courses if the product you’re using is not wide enough to cover a wall in one piece.

NOTE: Housewrap is a one-way permeable fabric that helps keep moisture from entering the structure from the exterior. Installing it makes sense only if you are planning to add finished interior walls in the garage.

Attach the housewrap with housewrap nails. Drive at least three housewrap nails spaced evenly along each wall stud.

Finish installing the housewrap. All seams should overlap by at least 6 to 12”, with horizontal seams overlapping from above.

Cut out windows and doors. Make a long X cut in the housewrap, connecting corners diagonally at window and door openings. Use a utility knife to make the cut. Staple down the extra housewrap in the window rough opening so it wraps around the jack studs, header, and rough sill.

Tape the seams. To seal the housewrap, apply housewrap tape along all horizontal and vertical seams.

NOTE: Housewrap is not rated for long-term exposure to the sun, so do not wait more than a few weeks after installing it before siding the garage.

Fascia and soffits enclose roof rafters to keep weather and pests out while providing a means of roof ventilation and a graceful transition from the roof to the walls.

Install the subfascia. Cut pieces of 1 × 8 to make subfascia strips that fit into the fascia area. Attach them to the rafter tails with 8d galvanized casing nails. The ends of the subfascia should be flush with the faces of the gable overhang rafters. Use a speed square held against the top edges of the rafters to adjust the subfascia up or down until the square meets it halfway through its thickness. This will allow the roof sheathing to overhang the rafter tails for proper drainage. Once the subfascia is properly adjusted, drive three nails per rafter tail to secure it.

Make vertical joints. If your subfascia or fascia boards are not long enough to cover a wall in one piece, use overlapping scarf joints to join the ends. Miter cut the ends of the scarf joint parts so they overlap and fall over a rafter tail. Drive three 8d nails through both joint parts to secure them to the rafter.

Add cornice filler pieces. Measure and cut triangular blocking to fit underneath the gable end rafter tails. Lay out the blocking so it forms a plumb bottom to the rafter tails. Toenail this blocking to the rafters. If soffit blocking is present, screw or nail the cornice blocking to the end of the soffit blocking. Lay out, cut, and nail 1× subfascia boards to cover the gable rafters and the ends of the ridgeboard. Miter cut the ends of the subfascia where they meet at the roof ridge.

Install cornice blocking. Cut and fit short lengths of 2 × 6 scrap between the gable and end rafters and the wall to box in the cornice. Drive 16d nails through the subfascia and end rafters to attach the blocking.

Enclose the eaves. Cut strips of vented aluminum soffit to enclose the eaves of the roof. Hang mounting strips for the soffit panels on the garage walls (if you did not install backer boards—see OPTION, above). Attach the free edges of the soffit to the bottom of the subfascia with siding nails. The soffit panels should stop flush with the subfascia.

Install soffit in the gables. Lay out and snap chalk lines on the gable walls for installing soffit hanger strips, and then mount the hanger strips (or the blocking). Cut, fit, and nail the soffit panel strips to the subfascia and soffit blocking to close up the rake ends of the roof.

Enclose the cornices. Cut and bend pieces of rolled aluminum flashing to fit over the roof cornices and cover the blocking. Nail this flashing to the cornices with color-matched siding nails. Wrap this flashing around the eave subfascia boards by 1 to 2” so you can install metal fascia to overlap it.

Install fascia covers. Measure the width of the subfascia boards, and cut fascia covers to fit. Fit the fascia in place over the subfascia boards so the bottom lip overlaps the soffits. Nail through the lip every 16” into the subfascia with color-matched siding nails. Fasten the top of the fascia within 1/2” of the cut edge so the nail heads will be covered by drip edge molding later. At the cornice, bend the last piece of fascia cover at a right angle to turn the corner (make relief cuts with aviation snips first).

Finish installing fascia covers. Install the fascia covers on the gable ends, stopping just short of the cornices. At the cornices, bend a piece of fascia cover to turn the corner, and trim the end so it will make a straight vertical seam. Caulk the seam with caulk tinted to match your fascia cover color.

A top-notch garage roof includes roof deck sheathing, drip edge, roofing felt, shingles, and a continuous ridge vent. When properly installed, your garage roof should last as long as your house roof.

Install the second row of decking. Start with a half sheet (approximately) to stagger the vertical gaps between rows. Make sure the end of the half sheet falls midway along a rafter. Continue to sheathe the roof up to the ridge, but stop nailing within 6” of the ridge. This area will be cut away to install a continuous ridge vent later. Add decking to the other side of the roof up to the ridge.

Install drip edge on eaves. Cut a 45° miter at the end of a piece of drip edge flashing and position it along one eave edge of the roof. The mitered end should be positioned to form a miter joint with the drip edge that will be installed on the rake edge after the building paper is laid. Attach the drip edge with roofing nails driven every 12”. Install drip edge up to the ridge, overlapping any butt joints by 2”. Flash both eave edges.

Begin installing building paper. Snap a chalk line across the roof sheathing 355/8” up from the roof edge. At this location, the first row of building paper will overhang the drip edge by 3/8”. Roll out 15# or 30# building paper along the eaves with the top edge aligned with the chalk line. Staple it to the sheathing every 12” along the edges and one staple per sq. ft. in the field area. Trim the gable ends of the paper flush with the edges of the sheathing. If you live in a cold climate and plan to heat your garage, install self-adhesive ice-guard membrane for the first two courses.

Install the second underlayment course. Snap another chalk line across the first row of underlayment, 32” up from the eaves. Roll out the second row of building paper with the bottom edge following the chalk line to create a 4” overlap. Staple it in place. Cover the entire roof up to the ridge with underlayment, overlapping each row by 4”.

Install drip edge on rakes. Cut a 45° miter at the end of the first piece of drip edge, and install it along the rake edge of the roof, covering the underlayment. Fit the mitered end over the eave’s drip edge, overlapping the pieces by 2”. The gable drip edge should be on top. Nail the drip edge all the way to the peak, and then repeat for the other three rake edges.

Install the starter course. Trim off one half of an end tab on a shingle. Position the shingle upside down so the tabs are aligned with the chalk line and the half tab is flush against the rake edge of the roof. Drive roofing nails near each end, 1” down from each slot between the tabs. Continue the row with full shingles nailed upside down to complete the starter course. Trim the last shingle flush with the opposite rake edge.

Install the first full course. Apply the first full course of shingles over the starter course with the tabs pointing down. Start from the same corner you began the starter course. Place the first shingle so it overhangs the rake edge by 3/8” and the eaves by 1/2”. The top edge of the first course should align with the top of the starter course.

Create a vertical reference line. Snap a chalk line from the eave’s edge to the ridge to create a vertical line to align the shingles. Choose a spot close to the center of the roof, located so the chalk line passes through a slot or a shingle edge on the first full shingle course. Use a framing square to establish a line perpendicular to the eave’s edge.

Set shingle pattern. If you are installing standard three-tab shingles, use the vertical reference line to establish a shingle pattern with slots that are offset by 6” in succeeding courses. Tack down a shingle 6” to one side of the vertical line and 5” above the bottom edge of the first-course shingles to start the second row. Tack down a shingle for the third course 12” from the vertical line. Begin at the vertical line for the fourth course. Repeat.

Fill in shingles. Add shingles in the second through fifth courses, working upward from the second course and maintaining consistent reveals. Insert lower-course shingles under any upper-course shingles left partially nailed, and then nail them down.

Test shingle alignment regularly. After each three-course cycle, measure from the bottom edge of the top row of shingles to the closest layout line on the building paper, and take several of these measurements along the course. If the row is slightly out of alignment, make incremental adjustments over the next few courses to correct it—don’t try and get it back all in one course.

Shingle up to the ridge. At the ridge, shingle up the first side of the roof until the top of the uppermost reveal area is within 5” of the ridge (for standard three-tabs). Trim the shingles along the peak. Shingle the other side of the roof up to the peak. If you plan to install a continuous ridge vent, skip to shown here.

Install ridge cap shingles. Start by installing one shingle at one end so equal amounts hang down on each side of the ridge. Measure this distance and snap straight chalk lines to the other end of the roof, extending the lines formed by the edges of the shingles. Nail in the tapered area of each shingle so the next shingle will cover the nail head. Complete the installation of the ridge shingles.

Trim shingles. Mark and trim the shingles at the rake edges of the roof. Snap a chalk line down the roof to trim neatly and accurately. Use old aviation snips to cut the shingles. You may use a utility knife with backer board instead. Let the shingles extend 3/8” beyond the rake drip edge to form an overhang.

Cut out roof sections. Using a circular saw equipped with an old blade, cut through the shingles and sheathing along the cutting lines. Be careful not to cut into the rafters. Stop both cuts 6 to 12” from the gable ends. Make two crosscuts up and over the ridge to join the long cuts on the ends. Remove the shingles and sheathing from the continuous ridge vent area. Drive additional roofing nails through the shingles and sheathing along the cut edges to secure the roof to the rafters.

Mark installation reference lines. Test-fit the continuous ridge at one end, measuring down from the ridge half the width of the ridge vent, and marking that distance on both ends of the roof. Join the marks with two more chalk lines to establish the position for the edges of the continuous ridge vent.

Attach the ridge vent. Center the ridge vent over the opening, aligning the end with the rake edge of the roof. The edges of the vent should be even with the chalk lines. Drive long (11/2”) roofing nails through the vent and into the roof where indicated by the manufacturer.

Add sections. Butt new pieces of continuous ridge vent against the pieces you have installed and nail the ends. Install the vent along the full length of the roof, including the end areas with shingles still intact.

Add ridge cap shingles (see here, step 9). Cover the ridge vent with ridge cap shingles, nailing them with two 11/2” roofing nails per cap. Overlap the shingles as you would on a normal ridge. Trim the end ridge cap shingle flush with the other rake-edge shingles.

A sturdy service door and lockset will give your new garage added accessibility without compromising security. Installing one is a fairly simple project. A vinyl- or aluminum-clad garage window will bring a breath of fresh air and improve your task lighting when working in the garage.

Caulk the opening. Apply a 1/2”-wide bead of caulk around the outside edges of the jack studs and header to seal the window flange in the opening. Leave the rough sill uncaulked to allow any water that may penetrate the flashing to drain out.

Position the window. Set the window unit into the rough opening and center it side to side. Check the sill for level.

Tack the top corners. Drive a roofing nail through each top corner hole of the top window flange to tack it in place. Do not drive the rest of the nails into the top flange yet.

Plumb the window. Have a helper hold the window in place from outside while you work inside the garage. Check the window jamb for square by measuring from corner to corner. If the measurements are the same, the jamb is square. Insert shims between the side jambs and rough opening near the top corners to hold the jambs in position. Use additional shims as needed to bring the jamb into square. Recheck the diagonals after shimming.

Nail the flange. Drive 2” roofing nails through the flange nailing holes and into the rough sill to secure it. Handnail this flange, being careful not to damage the flange or window cladding.

Nail the jambs. Drive 6d (2”) casing nails through the jambs and top corner shims to lock them in place. Add more shims to the centers and bottom corners of the jamb, and test the window action by opening and closing it. If it operates without binding, nail through the rest of the shims.

Flash the side flanges. Seal the side flanges with flashing tape, starting 4 to 6” below the sill flashing and ending 4 to 6” above the top flange. Press the tape firmly in place.

Install the drip cap. Cut a piece of metal drip edge to fit over the top window jamb. This is particularly important if your new window has an unclad wooden jamb with preinstalled brickmold. Set the drip edge in place on the top jamb, and secure the flange with a strip of wide flashing tape. Do not nail it. Have the tape overlap the side flashing tape by 6”.

NOTE: If you plan to trim the window with wood brickmold or other moldings, install the drip edge above that trim instead.

Finish the installation. Cut the shim ends so they are flush with the inside of the wall using a utility knife or handsaw.

Spray expanding foam insulation around the perimeter of the window on the interior side if you will be insulating and heating or cooling your garage.

Flash the header. Cover the header with a third piece of self-adhesive flashing tape, extending the ends of the tape 6” beyond the side flashing. Fold the extra tape over the housewrap to form a 3” overlap.

Seal the opening. Apply a 1/2”-wide bead of caulk up the outside edges of the jack stud area and around the header to seal the brickmold casing.

Position the door in the opening. Set the bottoms of the side jambs inside the rough opening and tip the door into place. Adjust the door so it’s centered in the opening.

Adjust the door. Orient pairs of shims so the thick and thin ends are reversed, forming a rectangular block. Insert the shims into the gap between the rough framing and the hingeside jamb. Spread the shims closer together or farther apart to adjust the total thickness until they are pressure-fitted into the gap. Space the shims every 12” along the jamb, and locate two pairs near the hinges. Check the hinge jamb for plumb and to make sure the shims do not cause it to bow. Drive pairs of 6d casing nails through the jambs at the shim locations.

Shim the latch side. Insert pairs of shims every 12” in the gap between the latch-side jamb and the rough framing. With the door closed, adjust the shims in or out until there’s a consistent 1/8” gap between the door and the jamb. Then drive pairs of 6d casing nails through the jamb and shims to secure them.

Attach the brickmold. Drive 21/2” galvanized casing nails through the brickmold to fasten it to the jack studs and header. Space the nails every 12”. Trim off the shims so they are flush with the inside wall using a utility knife or handsaw.

Fasten the lock mechanisms by tightening the screws that draw the two halves together. Do not overtighten.

Add a heavy-duty latch guard to reinforce the door jamb around the strike plate. For added protection, choose a guard with a flange to resist pry-bar insertion. Attach the guard with 3” screws that will penetrate through the jamb and into the wall studs.

The sectional garage door you choose for your garage will go a long way toward defining the building’s appearance and giving you trouble-free performance day in and day out.

Assemble door tracks. Working on the floor, lay out and assemble the vertical tracks, jamb brackets, and flag angle hardware. Install the door bottom seal and the roller and hinge hardware on the bottom door section.

Install the first section. Set the bottom door section into position against the side jambs, and adjust it left or right until the side jambs overlap it evenly. Check the top of the door section for level. Place shims beneath the door to level it, if necessary. Have a helper hold the door section in place against the jambs until it is secured in the tracks.

Attach the tracks. Slip a vertical track over the door section rollers and against the side jamb. Adjust it for plumb, then fasten the jamb brackets to the side jamb blocking with lag screws. Carefully measure, mark, and install the other vertical track as well.

Attach the lift cables. Depending on your door design, you may need to attach lift cables to the bottom door section at this time. Follow the instructions that come with your door to connect these cables correctly.

Install the door hinges. Fasten the end and intermediate hinges to the bottom door section, and then install roller brackets and hinges on the other door sections. Attach hinges to the top edges of each door section only. This way you’ll be able to stack one section on top of the next during assembly.

Add next sections. Slip the next door section into place in the door tracks and on top of the first section. Connect the bottom hinges (already attached to the first section) to the second door section. Repeat the process until you have stacked and installed all but the top door section.

Install the top section. Set the top door section in place and fasten it to the hinges on the section below it. Support the door section temporarily with a few 16d nails driven into the door header blocking and bent down at an angle.

Complete track installation. Fasten the horizontal door tracks to the flag angle brackets on top of the vertical track sections. Temporarily suspend the back ends of the tracks with rope so they are level.

Install rear hanger brackets. This step will vary among door opener brands. Check your door instruction manual for the correct location of rear hanger brackets that will hold the horizontal door tracks in position. Measure, cut, and fasten sections of perforated angle iron together with bolts, washers, and nuts to form two Y-shaped door track brackets. Fasten the brackets to the collar tie or bottom truss chord with lag screws and washers following the door manufacturer’s recommendations.

Attach the extension springs. The door opener here features a pair of smaller springs that run parallel to the horizontal door tracks, not parallel to the door header as larger torsion springs are installed. The springs are attached to cables that attach to the rear door hanger brackets.

Test to make sure the door tracks properly. Raise it about halfway first. You’ll need at least one helper here. Slide a sturdy support underneath the door bottom to hold the door and then inspect to make sure the rollers are tracking and the tracks are parallel.

Attach the spring cables. The door should be fully raised and held in place with C-clamps tightened onto the tracks to prevent it from slipping down. The tension in the springs should be relieved. The cables in this case are tied off onto a 3-hole clip that is then hooked onto the horizontal angle bracket near the front of the tracks.

Attach the doorstop molding. Measure, cut, and nail sections of doorstop molding to the door jambs on the outside of the door to seal out weather. A rolled vinyl doorstop may come with your door kit. If not, use strips of 1 × 2 treated wood or cedar for this purpose.

A combination of faux stone and lap siding, with accenting corner trim, transforms what could otherwise be an ordinary garage into a structure that adds real curb appeal to your home.

Wood lap siding comes in wide or narrow strips and is normally beveled. Exterior-rated wood that can be clear coated is common (usually cedar or redwood). Other wood types are used, too, but these are usually sold preprimed and are suitable for painting only.

Fiber-cement lap siding is a relative newcomer, but its use is spreading quickly. It is very durable but requires some special tools for cutting and installation.

Specialty siding products like these cast veneer stones are often used as accents on partial walls (see the photo on previous page). They can also be used to side one wall of a structure. For the most part, their effectiveness (and your budget) would be diminished if they were used to cover the entire structure.

Cast veneer stones are thin synthetic masonry units that are applied to building walls to imitate the appearance of natural stone veneer. They come in random shapes, sizes, and colors, but they are scaled to fit together neatly without looking unnaturally uniform. Outside corner stones and a sill block (used for capping half-wall installations) are also shown here.

Apply a scratch coat. The wall in the installation area should be covered with a 1/2- to 3/4”-thick layer of mortar. Mix one part Type N mortar to two parts masonry sand and enough water to make the consistency workable. Apply with a trowel, let the mortar dry for 30 minutes. Brush the surface with a stiff-bristle brush.

Test layouts. Uncrate large groups of stones and dry-lay them on the ground to find units that blend well together in shape as well as in color. This will save an enormous amount of time as you install the stones.

Cut veneer stones, if necessary, by scoring with an angle grinder and diamond blade along a cutting line. Rap the waste side of the cut near the scored line with a mason’s hammer or a maul. The stone should fracture along the line. Try to keep the cut edge out of view as much as you can.

Apply the stones. Mix mortar in the same ratios as in step 2, but instead of applying it to the wall, apply it to the backs of the stones with a trowel. A 1/2”-thick layer is about right. Press the mortared stones against the wall in their position. Hold them for a few second so they adhere.

Fill the gaps between stones with mortar once all of the stones are installed and the mortar has had time to dry. Fill a grout bag (sold at concrete supply stores) with mortar mixture and squeeze it into the gaps. Once the mortar sets up, strike it smooth with a jointing tool.

Install sill blocks. These are heavier and wider than the veneer block so they require some reinforcement. Attach three 2 × 2” zinc-coated L-brackets to the wall for each piece of sill block. Butter the backs of the sill blocks with mortar and press them in place, resting on the L-brackets. Install metal flashing first for extra protection against water penetration.

Trim windows and doors. Measure and cut brickmold or other trim to fit around the windows and doors. The trim joints can either be butted or mitered, depending on your preference. For miter joints, cut corners at 45° and nail with 21/2” galvanized casing nails. Drive pairs of nails every 16”.

Install frieze boards. Cut the frieze boards to match the width of the corner boards. Butt them against the corner trim, and nail them to the wall studs directly under the soffits on the eaves with 6d galvanized casing nails.

Install gable frieze boards. Use a bevel gauge to transfer the gable angle to the frieze boards, and miter cut the ends to match. Install the gable frieze boards so they meet neatly in a miter joint at the roof peak. Nail them to the gable wall plates and studs with pairs of 2” 6d galvanized casing nails every 16”.

Install starter strips. Install strips of lath (or narrow pieces of siding) along the bottom of the walls, flush with the bottom edges of the wall sheathing. The lath will tip the first row of siding out to match the overlap projection of the other rows. Attach the lath to the wall studs with 6d galvanized casing nails. Snap vertical chalk lines to mark wall stud locations.

Install the first board. Cut the first siding board so it ends halfway over a stud when the other end is placed 1/8” from a corner trim board. Prime the cut end before installing it. Align the siding with the bottom edge of the lath, keeping a 1/8” gap between the siding and the corner board. Nail the panel at each stud location 1” from the top edge with siding nails. Keep nails at least 1/2” in from the panel ends to prevent splitting.

Install the second board. Mark and cut the second piece of siding to length. Wear a dust respirator when cutting the siding, especially if you use a circular saw instead of electric cementboard shears.

Install the next board. Set the second siding board in place over the lath, spaced to create a gap of 1/8” where it would butt against the first board. Nail the siding board to the wall at stud locations. Install more siding boards to complete the first row. Snap level chalk lines across the wall to mark layout lines for the remaining rows of siding. Set this pattern so each row of siding will overlap the row below it by 11/4”.

Install next rows. As you install each row of siding, stagger the joints between the end boards to offset the seams by at least one wall stud.

Work around windows and doors. Slide a piece of siding against the horizontal trim, and mark the board 1/8” from the outside edges of the trim. Use these marks to draw perpendicular lines on the board, and make a mark on the lines to represent the correct overlap. Connect these marks with a long line, and make the cutout with a jigsaw equipped with a masonry blade. Fit and nail the notched panel around the opening.

Install the top row. Unless you get lucky or have planned very carefully, the top row of siding boards will likely require rip-cutting to make sure that your reveals and setbacks are maintained. With a circular saw and a straightedge guide, trim off the top of the boards so the cut tops butt up against the frieze. Nail the cut boards in place.

Transfer gable angles. Use a bevel gauge to determine the roof angle on the gable ends of the roof. Transfer the angle to the siding panels that butt against the gable frieze boards, and cut them to fit.

Fill in under gables. Drill pilot holes though the angled corners of gable siding pieces to keep them from splitting. Drive the nails through the holes to install the boards.

Caulk gaps. Fill all gaps between boards and between boards and trim with flexible, paintable caulk. Paint the siding and trim as desired.

In this chapter:

• Single Detached Garage

• Compact Garage

• Gambrel Garage

This efficient garage is built from the ground up using common building materials available at any building center. This plan was the basis for the Building a New Garage chapter featured on the previous pages. The materials lists and plan drawings are included in the following pages of this chapter.

Snap chalk lines for the bottom plates so they will be flush with the outside edges of the foundation. You can frame the walls in four continuous panels or break them up into panels A through F, as shown in the Wall Framing Plan (shown here). We completely assembled and squared all four walls before raising and anchoring them.

Frame the back wall(s) following the Back Side Framing (shown here). Use pressure-treated lumber for the bottom plate and nail it to the studs with galvanized 16d common nails. All of the standard studs are 925/8” long. Square the wall, then add 1 × 4 let-in bracing.

Raise the back wall and anchor it to the foundation J-bolts with washers and nuts. Brace the wall upright. Frame and raise the remaining walls one at a time, then tie all of the walls together with double top plates. Cover the outside of the walls with T1-11 siding.

Cut fifteen 2 × 6 attic floor joists at 1423/4”. Cut the top corner at both ends of each joist. Mark 17/8” along the top edge and 15/16” down the end; connect the marks, then cut along the line. Clipping the corner prevents the joist from extending above the rafters.

Mark the joist layout onto the wall plates following the Attic Floor Joist Framing (shown here). Leave 31/2” between the outsides of the end walls and the outer joists. Toenail the joists to the plates with three 8d common nails at each end. Frame the rough opening for the staircase with doubled side joists and doubled headers; fasten doubled members together with pairs of 10d nails every 16”. Install the drop-down staircase unit following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Cover the attic floor with 1/2” plywood, fastening it to the joists with 8d nails.

Use the Rafter Template (shown here) to mark and cut two pattern rafters. Test-fit the rafters and adjust the cuts as needed. Cut all (24) standard rafters. Cut four special rafters with an extra birdsmouths cut for the box bay. Cut four gable overhang rafters—these have no birdsmouths cuts.

Cut the 2 × 8 ridgeboard at 2063/4”. Mark the rafter layout on the ridge and wall plates as shown in the Front Side Framing (shown here) and Back Side Framing (shown here). Frame the roof following the steps shown here. Install 61/2”-long lookouts 24” on center, then attach the overhang rafters. Fasten the attic joists to the rafters with three 10d nails at each end.

Mark the stud layout for the gable end walls onto the end wall plates following the Side Framing (shown here). Transfer the layout to the rafters, using a level. Cut each of the 2 × 4 studs to fit, mitering the top ends at 33.5°. Install the studs flush with the end walls.

Construct the 2 × 4 half wall for the interior apron beneath the box bay. Cut two plates at 60” (pressure-treated lumber for bottom plate); cut five studs at 321/2”. Fasten one stud at each end and space the remaining studs evenly in between. Mark a layout line 12” from the inside of the shed’s front wall (see the Building Section). Anchor the half wall to the slab using masonry screws or a powder-actuated nailer.

Cut six 2 × 6 joists at 361/2”. Toenail the joists to the inner and outer half walls following the layout in the Box Bay Window Framing (shown here); the joists should extend 15” past the outer shed wall. Add a 60”-long 2 × 4 sill plate at the ends of the joists. Cut two 2 × 4 side studs to extend from the sill plate to the top edges of the rafters (angle top ends at 33.5°) and install them. Install a built-up 2 × 4 header between the side studs 413/8” above the sill plate.

Install a 2 × 2 nailer 1/2” up from the bottom of the 2 × 4 bay header. Cover the top and bottom of the bay with 1/2” plywood as shown in the Box Bay Window Detail. Cut a 2 × 4 stud to fit between the plywood panels at each end of the 2 × 4 shed wall header. Fasten these to the studs supporting the studs and the header.

Bevel the top edge of the 2 × 6 blocking stock at 33.5°. Cut individual blocks to fit between the rafters and attic joists, and install them to seal off the rafter bays. See the Overhead Door Header detail (shown here). The blocks should be flush with the tops of the rafters. Custom-cut 2 × 8 blocking to enclose the rafter bays above the box bay header; see the Box Bay Window Detail.

Add 2 × 8 fascia to the ends of the rafters along each eave so the top outer edge will be flush with the top of the roof sheathing. Cover the gable overhang rafters with 1 × 8 fascia. Add 1 × 2 trim to serve as a drip edge along the eaves and gable ends so it will be flush with the top of the roof sheathing. Install the 1/2” roof sheathing.

Add Z-flashing above the first row of siding, then cut and fit T1-11 siding for the gable ends. Cover the flashed seam with 1 × 4 trim.

To complete the trim details, add 1 × 2 along the gable ends and sides of the box bay. Use 1 × 4 on all vertical corners and around the windows, service door, and overhead door. Rip down 1 × 10s for horizontal trim along the bottom of the box bay. Also cover underneath the bay joists with 1/2” exterior-grade plywood.

Rip cut 1 × 6 boards to 41/8” wide for the overhead door jambs. Install the jambs using the door manufacturer’s dimensions for the opening. Shim behind the jambs if necessary. Make sure the jambs are flush with the inside of the wall framing and are flush with the face of the siding. Install the 2 × 6 surround as shown in the Overhead Door Header Detail and Overhead Door Jamb Detail.

Install the two windows and the service door following the manufacturers’ instructions. Position the jambs of the units so they will be flush with the siding, if applicable. Install the overhead door, then add stop molding along the top and side jambs. See the Service Door Header/Jamb Detail.

Add building paper and asphalt shingles following the steps shown here.

Snap chalk lines on the slab for the wall plates. Cut two bottom plates and two top plates at 137” for the side walls. Cut two bottom and two top plates at 144” for the front and rear walls. Use pressure-treated lumber for all bottom plates. Cut 38 studs at 925/8”, plus 2 jack studs for the garage door at 781/2” and 2 window studs at 757/8”.

NOTE: Add the optional slab now, as desired.

Construct the built-up 2 × 8 headers at 99” (garage door) and 63” (window). Frame, install, and brace the walls with double top plates one at a time following the Floor Plan (shown here) and Elevation drawings (shown here). Use galvanized nails to attach the studs to the sole plates. Anchor the walls to the J-bolts in the slab with galvanized washers and nuts.

Build the attic floor. Cut ten 2 × 6 joists to 144” long, then clip each top corner with a 11/2”-long, 45° cut. Install the joists as shown in the Framing Elevations drawings (shown here), leaving a 31/2” space at the front and rear walls for the gable wall studs. Fasten the joists with three 8d nails at each end.

Frame the attic kneewalls. Cut four top plates at 144” and two bottom plates at 137”. Cut 20 studs at 265/8” and 4 end studs at 335/8”. Lay out the plates so the studs fall over the attic joists. Frame the walls and install them 181/8” from the ends of the joists, then add temporary bracing.

OPTION: You can begin building the roof frame by cutting two 2 × 8 nailers to 144” long. Fasten the nailers to the kneewalls so their top edges are 325/8” above the attic joists.

Cover the attic floor between the kneewalls with 1/2” plywood. Run the sheets perpendicular to the joists and stop them flush with the outer joists. Fasten the flooring with 8d ring-shank nails every 6” along the edges and every 12” in the field of the sheets.

Mark the rafter layouts onto the top and outside faces of the 2 × 8 nailers; see the Framing Elevations drawings (shown here).

Cut the 2 × 6 ridgeboard at 168”, mitering the front end at 16°. Mark the rafter layout onto the ridge. The outer common rafters should be 16” from the front end and 8” from the rear end of the ridge.

Use the Rafter Templates (shown here) to mark and cut two upper pattern rafters and one lower pattern rafter. Use the patterns to mark the remaining common rafters. For the gable overhangs, cut an additional eight lower and six upper rafters following the Gable Overhang Rafter Details (shown here).

Install the common rafters. Nail the upper rafters to the ridge and kneewalls. Toenail the lower rafters to the nailers and wall plates. Reinforce the wall-plate connections with metal framing connectors. Nail the attic joists to the sides of the lower rafters. Cut four 2 × 4 collar ties at 34”, mitering the ends at 26.5°. Fasten them between pairs of upper rafters, as shown in the Building Section (shown here) and Framing Elevations (shown here).

Snap a chalk line across the side-wall studs, level with the ends of the rafters. Cut two 2 × 4 soffit ledgers at 160” and fasten them to the studs on top of the chalk lines, with their ends overhanging the walls by 8”. Cut twenty-four 2 × 4 blocks to fit between the ledger and rafter ends, as shown in the Eave Detail (shown here). Install the blocks.

Frame the gable overhangs. Cut twelve 2 × 4 lookouts at 5” and nail them to the inner overhang rafters as shown in the Left and Right Side Framing Elevations. Install the inner overhang rafters over the common rafters, using 10d nails. Cut the two front (angled) overhang rafters; see the Gable Overhang Rafter Details. Install those rafters; then add two custom-cut lookouts for each rafter.

To complete the gable walls, cut top plates to fit between the ridge and the attic kneewalls. Install the plates flush with the outer common rafters. Mark the stud layout onto the walls and gable top plate; see the Front and Rear Framing Elevations. Cut the gable studs to fit and install them. Construct the built-up 2 × 6 attic door header at 621/2”; then clip the top corners to match the roof slope. Install the header with jack studs cut at 401/4”.

Install siding on the walls, holding it 1” below the top of the concrete slab. Add Z-flashing along the top edges and then continue the siding up to the rafters. Below the attic door opening, stop the siding about 1/4” below the top wall plate, as shown in the Attic Door Sill Detail (shown here). Don’t nail the siding to the garage door header until the flashing is installed (Step 20).

Mill 3/8”-wide × 1/4”-deep grooves into the 1 × 6 boards for the horizontal fascia along the eaves and gable ends (about 36 linear ft.); see the Eave Detail. Use a router or table saw with a dado-head blade to mill the groove, and make the groove 7/8” above the bottom edge of the fascia.

Install the 1 × 4 subfascia along the eaves, keeping the bottom edge flush with the ends of the rafters and the ends flush with the outsides of the outer-most rafters; see the Eave Detail. Add the milled fascia at the eaves, aligning the top of the groove with the bottom of the subfascia. Cut fascia to wrap around the overhangs at the gable ends but don’t install them yet.

Add fascia at the gable ends, holding it up 1/2” to be flush with the roof sheathing. Cut soffit panels to fit between the fascia and walls, and fasten them with 3d galvanized nails. Install the end and return fascia pieces at the gable overhangs. Enclose each overhang at the corners with a triangular piece of grooved fascia (called a pork chop) and a piece of soffit material. Install the soffit vents as shown in the Eave Detail (shown here).

Sheath the roof starting at one of the lower corners. Add metal drip edge along the eaves, followed by building paper; then add drip edge along the gable ends over the paper. Install the asphalt shingles (see here). Plan the courses so the roof transition occurs midshingle, not between courses; the overlapping shingles will relax over time. If desired, add roof vents (shown here).

Cover the Z-flashing at the rear wall with horizontal 1 × 4 trim. Finish the four wall corners with overlapping vertical 1 × 4 trim. Install the 2 × 6 rails that will support the garage door tracks following the door manufacturer’s instructions to determine the sizing and placement; see the Garage Door Trim Detail (shown here).

For the garage door frame, rip 1 × 8 trim boards to width so they cover the front wall siding and 2 × 6 rails, as shown in the Garage Door Trim Detail (shown here). Install the trim, mitering the pieces at 22.5°. Install the 1 × 4 trim around the outside of the opening, adding flashing along the top. See the Front Elevation (shown here).

Install the garage door in the door opening following the manufacturer’s directions.

Build the window frame, which should be 1/2” narrower and shorter than the rough opening. Install the frame using shims and 10d galvanized casing nails, as shown in the Window Jamb Detail (shown here). Cut eight 1 × 2 stop pieces to fit the frame. Bevel the outer sill stop for drainage. Order glass to fit or cut your own plastic panel. Install the glazing and stops using glazing tape for a watertight seal. Add the window trim.

For the attic door frame, rip 1 × 6s to match the depth of the opening and cut the head jamb and side jambs. Cut the sill from full-width 1 × 6 stock; then cut a kerf for a drip edge (see the Attic Door Sill Detail). Fasten the head jamb to the side jambs and install the sill at a 5° slope between the side jambs. Install the door frame using shims and 10d casing nails. Add shims or cedar shingles along the length of the sill to provide support underneath. The front edge of the frame should be flush with the face of the siding. Add 1 × 2 stops at the frame sides and top 3/4” from the front edges.

Build the attic doors as shown in the Attic Door Elevation (shown here), using glue and 11/4” screws. Each door measures 285/8” × 38”, including the panel braces. Cut the 1 × 8 panel boards about 1/8” short along the bottom to compensate for the sloping sill. Install the door with two hinges each. Add 1 × 4 horizontal trim on the front wall up against the doorsill; then trim around both sides of the door frame. Prime and paint as desired.

In this chapter:

• The Garage Workshop

• Electrical & Lighting Improvements

• Bringing Electrical Service to a Garage

• Installing Fluorescent Light Fixtures

You can vastly improve garage lighting by upgrading to an 8’ fixture, such as this fluorescent unit, or by upgrading a fluorescent fixture to more energy-efficient LED tubes (see here).

Confirm power is OFF by testing at the outlet, switch, or fixture with a current tester.

Wear rubber-soled shoes while working on electrical projects. On damp floors, stand on a rubber mat or dry wooden boards.

Install a green insulated grounding wire for any circuit that runs through metal conduit. Although code allows the metal conduit to serve as the grounding conductor, most electricians install a green insulated wire as a more dependable means of grounding the system. The grounding wires must be connected to metal boxes with a pigtail and grounding screw (image above) or grounding clip (next image).

The ground-fault circuit-interrupter, or GFCI receptacle, is a modern safety device. When it detects slight changes in current, it instantly shuts off power.

Learn about codes. The National Electrical Code (NEC), and local electrical and building codes, provide guidelines for determining how much power and how many circuits your home needs. Your local electrical inspector can tell you which regulations apply to your job.

A well-outfitted garage workshop such as this one requires a lot of power. Make sure the electrical circuits serving the structure will serve all your needs and then some.

A basic outdoor circuit starts with a waterproof fitting at the house wall connected to a junction box inside. The underground circuit cable—rated UF (underground feeder)—runs in an 18”- to 24”-deep trench and is protected from exposure at both ends by metal or PVC conduit. Inside the garage, standard NM cable runs through metal conduit to protect it from damage (not necessary if you will be adding interior wall coverings). All receptacles and devices in the garage must be GFCI protected.

From outside, drill a hole through the exterior wall and the rim joist at the exit point for the cable (you’ll probably need to install a bit extender or an extralong bit in your drill). Make the hole just large enough to accommodate the L-body conduit fitting and conduit nipple.

Assemble the conduit and junction box fittings that will penetrate the wall. Here, we attached a 12” piece of 3/4” conduit and a sweep to a metal junction box with a compression fitting, and then inserted the conduit into the hole drilled in the rim joist. The junction box is attached to the floor joist.

From outside, seal the hole around the conduit with expandable spray foam or caulk, and then attach the free end of the conduit to the back of a waterproof L-body fitting. Mount the L-body fitting to the house exterior with the open end facing downward.

Cut a length of IMC to extend from the L-fitting down into the trench using a hacksaw. Deburr the cut edges of the conduit. Secure the conduit to the L-fitting, then attach a 90° sweep to the bottom end of the conduit using compression fittings. Add a bushing to the end of the sweep to protect the circuit cable. Anchor the conduit to the wall with a corrosion-resistant pipe strap.

Inside the shed, drill a 3/4” dia. hole in the shed wall. On the interior of the garage, mount a junction box with an open back to allow the cable to enter through the hole. On the exterior side directly above the end of the UF trench, mount an exterior-rated receptacle box with cover. The plan is to bring power into the garage through the hole in the wall behind the exterior receptacle.

Run conduit from the exterior box down into the trench. Fasten the conduit to the building with a strap. Add a 90° sweep and bushing, as before. Secure the conduit to the box with an offset fitting. Anchor the conduit with pipe straps, and seal the entry hole with caulk.

Run underground feeder (UF) cable from the house to the outbuilding. Feed one end of the UF circuit cable up through the sweep and conduit and into the L-fitting at the house (the back or side of the fitting is removable to facilitate cabling). Run the cable through the wall and into the junction box, leaving at least 12” of extra cable at the end.

Lay the UF cable into the trench, making sure it is not twisted and will not contact any sharp objects. Roll out the cable and then feed the other end of the cable up through the conduit and into the receptacle box in the garage, leaving 12” of slack.

Inside the garage, install the remaining boxes for the other switches, receptacles, and lights. With the exception of plastic receptacle boxes for exterior exposure, use metal boxes if you will be connecting the boxes with metal conduit.

Connect the electrical boxes with conduit and fittings. Inside the garage, you may use inexpensive EMT to connect receptacle, switch, and fixture boxes. Once you’ve planned your circuit routes, start by attaching couplings to all of the boxes.

Cut a length of conduit to fit between the coupling and the next box or fitting in the run. If necessary, drill holes for the conduit through the centers of the wall studs. Attach the conduit to the fitting that you attached to the first box.

If you are surface mounting the conduit or running it up or down next to wall studs, secure it with straps no more than 3’ apart. Use elbow fittings for 90° turns and setscrew couplings for joining straight lengths as needed. Make holes through the wall studs only as large as necessary to feed the conduit through.

Measure to find how much NM cable you’ll need for each run, and cut a piece that’s a foot or two longer. Before making L-turns with the conduit, feed the cable through the first conduit run.

Feed the other end of the cable into the next box or fitting in line. It is much easier to feed cable into 45° and 90° elbows if they have not been attached to the conduit yet. Continue feeding cable into the conduit and fitting until you have reached the next box in line.

Once you’ve reached the next box in line, coil the end of the cable and repeat the process with new cable for the next run. Keep working until all of the cable is run and all of the conduit and fittings are installed and secured. If you are running multiple cables into a single box, write the origin or destination on a piece of masking tape and stick it to each cable end.

Make the wiring connections at the receptacles. Strip 3/4” of insulation from the circuit wires using a wire stripper. Connect the white (neutral) wire and black (hot) wire of the UF cable to the LINE screw terminals on the receptacle. Connect the white (neutral) and black (hot) wires from the NM cable to the LOAD terminals. Pigtail the bare copper ground wires and connect them to the receptacle ground terminal and the metal box. Install the receptacle and cover plate.

Continue installing receptacles in the circuit run, and then run service from the last receptacle to the switch box for the light fixture or fixtures. (If you anticipate a lot of load on the circuit, you should probably run a separate circuit for the lights.) Twist the white neutral leads and grounding leads together and cap them. Attach the black wires to the appropriate switches. Install the switches and cover plate.

Install the light fixtures. For this garage, we installed a caged ceiling light inside the garage and a motion-detector security light on the exterior side.

Run NM cable from the electrical box in the house at the start of the new circuit to the main service panel. Use cable staples if you are running the cable in floor joist cavities. If the cable is mounted to the bottom of the floor joists or will be exposed, run it through conduit.

At the service panel, feed the NM cable in through a cable clamp. Arrange for your final electrical inspection before you install the breaker. Then attach the wires to a new circuit breaker and install the breaker in an empty slot. Label the new circuit on the circuit map.

Turn on the new circuit and test all of the receptacles and fixtures. Depress the Test button and then the Reset button if you installed a GFCI receptacle. If any of the fixtures or receptacles is not getting power, check the connections first, and then test the receptacle or switch for continuity with a multimeter.

Lay narrow scraps of lumber over the cable in the trench as an extra layer of protection from digging, and then backfill with dirt to cover. Replace the sod in the trench if you saved it.

An 8’-long fluorescent light fixture can illuminate your entire garage. This model has a heavy-duty ballast that withstands cold weather, making it a good choice for a garage setting.

Attach the fixture box to the ceiling by driving screws through mounting holes in the box and into ceiling framing members. If the mounting holes do not align with rafters or trusses, mark the holes, remove the fixture, and then install toggle bolts. Or drill new mounting holes in the metal box at the framing member locations.

Make wiring connections. Connect the bare copper ground in the NM cable to the grounding terminal on the fixture box. (This may require a short pigtail wire.) Connect the black power wire from the switch to the black fixture wire with a wire connector. Connect the white neutral from the switch box to the white fixture wire.

Install the bulb and test the fixture. If everything works, remove the bulb and install the deflector shield over the wiring connections. Reinstall the bulb, and then attach the diffuser.

Converting your garage’s fluorescent fixture to LED tubes is an easy way to brighten the space, eliminate common ballast problems, and realize long-term value and energy efficiency in your garage lighting.

Remove any covers or panels on the light fixture that conceal the wiring and ballast. Locate and identify all wiring; ground should be green or bare; white, neutral; and black, live. Double-check that all the power is off to the fixture with a non-contact voltage tester. Unscrew the wire connectors and separate the wires.

Cut the wires emanating from the ballast. Unscrew the ballast and discard it, following local regulations concerning toxic waste.

Reconnect the neutral wire (the white in this case) feeding into the fixture to the leads from the tombstones (bulb sockets) on one side. Do the same with the hot wire (black in this case) feeding into the fixture, connecting it with leads from the opposite tombstones. Cut any mangled wire ends and strip the wires so that you have leads to work with.

Twist the ends of the connections on both sides with wire connectors until the connectors are hand-tight. Gently tug on each of the wires to ensure they are securely locked into the wire connector.

Install an LED tube into the fixture, turn the power on, and test to see that all tombstones are live and getting power and that there are no short circuits. Turn the power off again at the breaker.

Replace the wire and ballast covers, making sure that none of the wires are pinched or crimped. Replace the bulbs, turn on the power at the breaker box, and test the fixture one final time.

Add a window to a dark garage to increase natural light. Although hopper-style windows and fixed windows are common in garages, a double-hung such as this offers better ventilation.

Mark the rough opening width on the sole plate of the garage wall. Mark locations for jack studs and king studs just outside the rough opening marks.

Cut and attach the king studs to the sole plate using 10d common nails driven toenail style.

Plumb the tops of the king studs with a level and then mark the edges onto the cap plate. Toenail the king studs to the cap plate.

Mark the top of the rough opening onto the king studs, measuring up from the floor. Cut the jack studs to this length.

Measure and mark the top of the header and sill locations on the king studs and then transfer the lines across the old studs in the rough opening area by positioning a straightedge between the header marks on the king studs. This creates a pair of cutting lines on each old stud.

Cut the old studs along the top and bottom cutting lines using a circular saw set to full cutting depth. Finish the cuts with a reciprocating saw or handsaw. Pry out the cut studs with a flat pry bar.

Make the header. For most garages, a window or door header made from a pair of 2 × 6s sandwiched around a strip of 1/2” plywood meets code requirements, but be sure to check with your local building department. Apply panel adhesive between all the parts, and drive 16d nails through both faces at regular intervals to secure the header parts.

Facenail the jack studs to the king studs, making sure the tops align with the layout lines for the bottom of the header (the header will rest on the tops of the jack studs).

Install the header. Set the header (step 8) onto the tops of the jack studs. Attach it to the king studs by facenailing through the king studs and into the header with 10d common nails. Also toenail through the cut studs (called cripple studs) above the header.

Install a doubled sill. Attach one sill member by facenailing down and into the tops of the cripple studs. Then, facenail the second sill plate to the first. Also toenail the top sill to the jack studs. Finally, cut two cripple studs and install them beneath the ends of the sill.

Mark the rough opening on the exterior wall. First, drive a 10d casing nail through the siding at each corner of the opening, nailing from inside the garage. Then on the exterior side, snap a chalk line between the nails to outline the opening.

Cut through the wall with a reciprocating saw, following the cutting lines for the rough opening. Make your cutting lines as straight as you can.

Mark the siding around the opening for trimming to create a recess for the window nailing flange and also the brickmold trim that will be installed (it is preinstalled on some windows). You need to temporarily set the window into the opening to trace the cutting lines.

Remove the siding along the cutting lines. Vinyl, wood, or steel lap siding can be cut with a trim saw or circular saw. Other siding types, such as stucco or brick, require more complicated techniques. Check with a contractor or refer to other resources for more information. Remove all wall coverings down to the wall sheathing.

Flash the rough opening by installing self-adhesive flashing or strips of building paper around the opening. Tuck the flashing beneath the siding next to the window opening. Flash the sill first, then the side, and then the top so the strips overlap from above.

Set the window in the opening. Insert wood shims beneath the window and the sill and between the sides of the unit and rough opening. Adjust the shims until the unit is level in the opening and the side gaps are even.

TIP: For an extra seal, apply a bead of silicone caulk to the back of the nailing flange before installing the window.

Nail the window nailing flange to the framing members with 11/2” roofing nails. Unless the manufacturer’s instructions direct otherwise, drive nails at corners and every 6” along the flanges. Most flanges are predrilled with guide holes for nails. For an extra seal, cut thin strips of self-adhesive flashing and cover the flanges once the nails are driven.

Cut a piece of metal drip edge molding (also called drip cap or window cap) and insert it behind the siding above the window. Use only caulk (no metal fasteners) to secure the drip edge.

Install brickmold if your window doesn’t have preinstalled trim. Start with the top strip, miter cutting the ends at 45° to create miter joints with the side pieces. Then install the sides. Install the bottom last. Attach brickmold with 8 galvanized casing nails driven through pilot holes (brickmold is prone to splitting). Caulk between the brickmold and the siding.

Finish the interior side. Patch in with new drywall or reuse the old drywall if possible. Then trim the window sill and jambs with mitered case molding.

Mark the cutout area for the roof sheathing by driving a long deck screw or a casing nail at each corner of the framed opening on the interior side.

Outline the roof cutout by snapping chalk lines between the points of the deck screws driven at the corners of the opening. Be sure to follow good safety practices for working on roofs: wear shoes, such as tennis shoes, with nonskid soles; and use roof jacks and fall-arresting gear on roofs with a pitch greater than 4-in-12. Also be aware of weather conditions.

Cut out the roof opening. Mount an old blade in a circular saw or cordless trim saw and plunge cut along the top and bottom cutting lines. Stop short of the corners so you don’t overcut. Before making the side cuts, tack a long 1 × 4 across the opening, perpendicular to the top and bottom cuts, driving a couple of screws through the 1 × 4 and into the cutout area. The 1 × 4 will keep the waste from falling into the garage through the hole. Make the side cuts, and then finish the cuts at the corners with a jigsaw or reciprocating saw. Remove the waste.

Remove the shingles surrounding the opening, but try and maintain the integrity of the building paper beneath. Try to salvage the shingles if you can so they can be reinstalled (they’ll match better than new shingles). Start with the row of shingles above the opening. Once these are removed you’ll have access to the roofing nails on lower courses.

Seal the bottom of the rough frame opening. Apply a strip of self-adhesive flashing at the bottom of the roof opening to create a seal on the curb and to cover the seam between the underlayment and the roof deck. This is for extra protection.

Position the skylight in the opening. Different models use different fastening and centering devices. The one seen here is installed using pairs of adjustable brackets that are fastened to the roof deck and to the sides of the skylight frame.

Fasten the skylight unit. Many models employ adjustable brackets like the ones seen here so the skylight can be raised or lowered and centered in the opening. The brackets seen here have a slot and several nail holes in the horizontal flange. Drive a ring shank nail in all four slots and then shift the unit side to side as necessary until it is centered in the opening. The brackets also allow the unit to be raised or lowered so the bottom edges of the cladding are the recommended distance above the finished roof surface (see manufacturer’s recommendations).

Install self-adhesive flashing strips around the skylight curb. Start with the base strip, cutting slits in the corners so the flashing extends all the way up the curb (you’ll need to remove metal cladding strips first). Install the head flashing last so all strips overlap from above.

Install side flashing. Here, metal step flashing is interwoven with the shingles during the shingling process. Whether it’s the shingle layer or the step flashing layer, make sure that all components always overlap from above and the horizontal tabs on the step flashing are all covered with shingles. Do not nail through flashing.

Replace shingles up to the skylight curb. Install shingles in complete rows, notching them to fit around the curb. Stop once the granular surfaces of the top row of shingles meet the curb.

Install the metal flashing beginning with the sill. Some skylights have a four-piece flashing kit where the side flashing is simply shingled over. Others, like the one seen here, include solid base and head flashing components and step flashing that is woven in with the shingles as the roof coverings are installed.

Install the head flashing piece so it overlaps the last course of shingle and step flashing. Finish shingling in the installation area, again taking care not to nail through any metal flashing. Replace the metal cladding and caulk if recommended by the manufacturer.

Add a variety of storage types to your garage to create places for everything you need to store in the garage. This garage features cubbies for wood scraps, a work surface over drawers and metal bins, and plenty of shelves.

Finishing your garage walls with drywall or other panel products improves the appearance of your garage and also can serve practical functions such as forming a fire block or concealing wiring or plumbing.

Cut drywall pieces to fit around doors and windows. Take special care if you are covering a firewall since any gaps will need to be filled with joint compound and taped over. Make straight cuts that run full width or length by scoring through the face paper with a utility knife and then snapping along the scored line. Finish the cut by slicing through the paper of the back face.

Mark and make cutouts for electrical and utility boxes. Use a drywall saw, key hole saw, or spiral-cutting saw to make the cutouts. Make sure the edges of the front boxes are flush with the face of the drywall (move the boxes, if necessary). Finish installing all panels.

Cover seams between drywall panels with joint compound; use drywall tape on walls that serve as firewalls. Cover tape with two layers of feathered-out joint compound and then cover all fastener heads if you will be painting the walls. Give the panels a coat of drywall primer before painting.

Make cutouts for boxes with a jigsaw. Cut panels to fit using a circular saw for straight cuts and the jigsaw for any other interior cuts. Install all wall panels, making sure the seams fall at wall stud locations. Leave gaps of 1/8 to 1/4” between panels.

Use screen retainer strips or T-molding to cover the seams between sheathing panels if you will be painting the walls. Attach the strips with panel adhesive and brad nails. Sand back any splinters around fastener heads and then cover the heads with joint compound or wood putty.

Paint the sheathing with a semigloss or gloss paint that’s easy to clean and will reflect light well. Use a paint roller or a high-volume low-pressure sprayer to apply the paint. Apply two or three thin coats.

Pegboard systems are classic storage solutions for garages and other utility areas. Outfitted with a variety of hangers, they offer flexibility and convenience when used to store hand tools and other small shop items.

Cut 1 × 2 furring strips to make a frame that is attached to the back side of the pegboard panel. The outside edges of the furring strips should be flush with the edges of the pegboard. Because they will be visible, cut the frame parts so the two side edge strips run the full height of the panel (36” here). Cut a couple of filler strips to fill in between the top and bottom rails.

Attach the furring strips to the back of the panel using 1” drywall screws and panel adhesive. Drive the screws through countersunk pilot holes in the panel face. Do not drive screws through the predrilled pegboard holes. Use intermediate furring strips to fill in between the top and bottom. These may be fastened with panel adhesive alone.

Paint or topcoat the pegboard. You can leave the pegboard unfinished, if you prefer, but a coat of paint or varnish protects the composite material from nicks and dings and hardens it around the hole openings so the holes are less likely to become elongated. A paint roller and short-nap sleeve make quick work of the job.

Locate and mark wall studs if your garage wall has a wall covering. Make sure the marks extend above and below the pegboard location so you can see them once the pegboard is positioned on the wall.

Tack the pegboard and frame to the wall in the desired location. Drive one 21/2” screw partway through the top frame at the center of the pegboard. Place a long level on the top of the pegboard and adjust it to level using the screw as a pivot point.

Drive a drywall screw through the top and bottom frame rails at each wall stud location. Drill countersunk pilot holes first. Double-check for level after driving the first screw. Insert hangers as desired.

Sturdy, adjustable shelves are easy to install and offer a convenient place to safely store those larger, lightweight items off the floor.

Install the remaining standards. For fail-proof results, install the two end standards first, and then establish a level line between them so you can butt the intermediate standards against the line. Use a level against each standard to make sure it is plumb.

NOTE: If you need to cut the standards for length, align all cut ends of the standards in the same locations (either at the top or bottom).

Prepare your shelf stock. For excellent results, rip cut quality 3/4” plywood to width (usually 111/2”) with a circular saw and a straightedge. Avoid particleboard or MDF shelving as it is prone to sagging and will degrade quickly if exposed to moisture. Most premilled shelving (usually coated with vinyl or melamine) is made from particleboard and is a bit too light-duty for garage storage.

Install shelf support brackets in the standards using light blows from a rubber mallet to make sure they’re fully seated. Set the shelving onto the standards, adjusting as desired.

Utility shelves built with ordinary 2 × 4s and plywood are an easy, inexpensive way to create flexible storage in a garage.

Mark points directly beneath the outside corners of the top plates to find the outer sole plate locations using a plumb bob as a guide (top). Mark the sole plate locations by drawing lines perpendicular to the wall, connecting each pair of points (bottom).

Cut the outer 2 × 4 sole plates and position them perpendicular to the wall, just inside the outlines. Shim plates to level if needed, then attach to the floor with a powder-actuated nailer or 3” screws. Attach a center sole plate midway between the outer sole plates.

Prepare the shelf risers by cutting 7/8”-wide, 3/4”-deep dadoes with a router. Cut dadoes every 4” along the inside face of each 2 × 4 riser, with the top and bottom dadoes cut about 12” from the ends of the 2 × 4.

TIP: Gang cut the risers by laying them flat and clamping them together, then attaching an edge guide to align the dado cuts. For each cut, make several passes with the router, gradually extending the bit depth until dadoes are 3/4” deep.

Trim the shelf risers to uniform length before unclamping them. Use a circular saw and a straightedge guide.

Build two center shelf supports by positioning pairs of shelf risers back to back and joining them with wood glue and 21/2” screws.

Build four end shelf supports by positioning the back of a dadoed shelf riser against a 2 × 4 of the same length, then joining the 2 × 4 and the riser with glue and 21/2” screws.

Position a center shelf support (both faces dadoed) at each end of the center sole plate, then anchor shelf supports to the sole plate using 3” screws driven toenail style. Use a framing square to align the center shelf supports perpendicular to the top plates, then anchor to top plates.

Position an end shelf support at each corner of the shelving unit between the top and the sole plates. Attach the supports by driving 3” screws toenail style into the top plate and sole plates.

Measure the distance between the facing dado grooves and subtract 1/4”. Cut the plywood shelves to fit and slide the shelves into the grooves.

Garage utility cabinets are inexpensive and because the base cabinets are not as deep as kitchen cabinets, they have a compact footprint that’s well suited to a garage. A durable melamine surface is easy to clean, and a double plywood work top with a replaceable hardboard surface stands up well to hard use.

Draw a level line along the wall to create a base cabinet top reference

Draw reference lines for the upper cabinets based on the base cabinet line. If your base cabinets are 341/2” tall (standard height not including countertop) then the line for the tops of the upper cabinets should be 491/2” above the base cabinet line and parallel to it. Measure down from the upper cabinet top line 30” and mark reference lines for the bottom of the upper cabinets (make sure your cabinets are 30” high first—this is a standard but there is occasional variation).

Mark wall stud locations clearly on the wall just above the base cabinet line and just below the bottom upper cabinets line. Also mark stud locations slightly above the top upper cabinet line. Use a stud finder to identify the locations of the studs.

Attach ledgers to the wall or walls to provide temporary support for the upper cabinets while you install them. The ledgers (1 × 4 is being used here) should just touch the reference line for the bottom of the wall cabinet. Attach the ledger with a drywall screw driven at each stud location. Transfer stud location marks to the ledger.

Attach the first wall cabinet with 21/2” drywall screws. If the cabinet has a mounting strip at the top of the back panel (most do), drive a pair of screws through the strip at each stud location. Attach all wall cabinets to the wall.

Join wall cabinets by driving 11/4” panhead screws through one cabinet side and into the adjoining cabinet side. Clamp the cabinets together first to make sure the fronts and tops stay flush.

Install the first base cabinet directly under the first wall cabinet. Position the cabinet and shim it as needed until it is level, plumb, and touches the reference line (see step 2). Secure it to the wall with 21/2” drywall screws.

Install the remaining base cabinets by leveling the cabinet sides, screwing them to the wall studs, and then fastening them together. Attach toe-kick trim boards or side panel trim, if desired. Remove the upper cabinet wall ledger or ledgers.

Attach cabinet doors and drawers if you removed them during installation or if they were not preattached. Adjust the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions so the gaps between doors are even and they all open and close smoothly.

Make the work top. While a piece of postform countertop makes a suitable and easy-to-install work top, you can create a heavier, more durable top with plywood. Simply cut two pieces of 3/4” plywood so they overhang each side and the front of the cabinet base by 1”. Secure them with panel adhesive and countersunk 11/4” screws. Use plenty of screws. Then cover the front and side edges with strips of 1 × 2. The front strip should overhang the front ends of the side strips. Attach the strips with adhesive and finish nails. Finally, cut a piece of 1/4”-thick hardboard so all edges are flush with the base. Attach it with 1” brads driven through slightly countersunk pilots holes (the heads need to be recessed). When the hardboard top becomes worn, you can easily remove it and replace it.

Attach the work top. If your base cabinets do not have preattached mounting strips for a countertop, fasten L-brackets around the inside perimeter of each cabinet, and then drive screws up through the L-brackets and into the underside of the work top. Apply a bead of panel adhesive to all cabinet top surfaces for a better bond and to reduce clattering. Add a bench vise, if desired.

A complete slat-wall system like this one provides incredible flexibility, allowing you to store just about anything you want with a minimum of installation time and effort.

Although the product used in the following project includes cabinets mounted on slat walls, you can also find hybrid products, such as the one shown here, that include freestanding cabinetry and slat-wall panels for exposed storage, such as the vertical bike hangers included in this garage.

A slat-wall system doesn’t need to be complex or massive to make sense. This simple quarter-wall system provides plenty of room to keep avid bikers organized and ready to ride at a moment’s notice.

Install a 1 × 2 × 4 starter strip on the wall, checking carefully again to ensure it is level. Install the strip 1’ below the top edge of the first panel in the wall.

Install the first panel by sitting it on the starter guide and aligning it on the studs. Screw it to the wall with the supplied color-coordinated screws. For maximum support, use one screw per slat, per stud.

NOTE: If you’re installing the panel on a finished wall, coat the back of the panel with construction adhesive before setting it in position.

Snap the next panel into position underneath the first panel. Align the outside edges (there may be up to a 1/8” variation in panel width; the edge strips will conceal this). Double-check the panel to make sure it’s level before fastening it to the wall with screws, as you did the top panel.

To accommodate wall outlets, switches, or other fixtures in the wall surface, measure and mark from the edge of the panel to the location of the outlet. Mark the outline of the opening on the face of the wall panel. Drill holes at the corners of the marked opening and cut it out with a jigsaw.

Unscrew the outlet receptacle or switch from the box frame. Install an outlet extender box, screwing it to the frame, then screw the receptacle or switch to the extender box. Install the wall panel over the receptacle and replace the outlet cover or switch plate.

Add any additional wall panels to either side by inserting the supplied dowels into the slots on the back of the previous panel and pushing the panels together. Check for level as you work, and screw the new panels into the wall.

For larger obstructions, cut the panels as needed to fit around the obstruction. Measure and mark, and then cut the panels with a jigsaw.

Clean newly installed panels with an all-purpose household cleaner. Install the edge caps, working from top to bottom on the right side, and bottom to top on the left.

Set a cabinet bottom panel (the bottom and top are interchangeable with this system, as are the sides) on a flat work surface. Snug a dowel into each dowel hole. Separate the cam posts from the cam nuts and place the posts in the outside holes on each end of the panel.

Use a screwdriver to hand-tighten the cam posts into the receiver holes. The post should still stick up far enough to accommodate the cam nut where it sits in the side-wall hole.

Push the cam nuts into the receiver holes in the one side wall. Make sure the line on the face of each nut is pointing vertically. Slide the wall down over the dowels and cam posts with the row of pin holes facing the inside of the cabinet (inset).

Use a screwdriver to turn the cam lock nuts to lock the side wall to the base. Repeat with the second side wall.

Align the cabinet spanner bar with the bolt holes in each side wall. Fasten the bar in place with the supplied Allen-head bolts. Repeat with the other spanner bar.

Install dowels and the cam posts in the top of the side panel, and slide the top panel onto them. Lock the cam posts in place as you did on the bottom, by turning the cam nuts until tight.

Sit a shelf rear bracket into the recessed back edge of one shelf. Screw it into place with the wood screws provided. Repeat with the other shelves you’ll be using in the cabinet.

Position each shelf at the level you prefer by levering it into the wall spanners for the shelf. Place pins in the corresponding side-wall panel pin holes at the front edge of the cabinet. Set the front of the shelf on the pins and check for level. Adjust as necessary, and repeat with the rest of the shelves.

Screw the door hinges into the designated hinge holes in the doors (longer cabinets have hinges at top, bottom, and middle; smaller cabinets only have two hinges on each side).

Sit one door in position with the round hinge projections secure into the door’s receiver holes. Screw the hinges to the cabinet. Repeat with the opposite door.

Screw the door handles onto the cabinet doors. Adjust the position of the cabinets as needed—they can be easily slid in one direction or the other. Add other accessories, work surfaces, and specialty hooks as desired.

A ceiling shelf unit takes advantage of underused space between the hood of your parked car and the ceiling. Most units are rated only for relatively light storage items.

Install the horizontal support bars. The bottom ends of the downrods are secured to the horizontal bars that support the shelving. This is often done with the use of L-shaped corner rods with female ends that accept the male ends of the downrod and the horizontal bars. How deeply the corner rods are inserted into the downrod determines the height of the storage platform. Set the height you want and then insert bolts through the aligned bolt holes in the downrods and corner rods. Align all parts and secure with bolts and nuts.

Install the shelving grids. Position the wire grid shelves so they span the support bars with even overhang (if possible). Thread bolts through the parallel wires and support framework as directed. Hand tighten nuts and washers onto bolts.

Join the grids together with the supplied fasteners. Load the storage items onto the shelves. Do not overload. Your instruction manual will inform you of the weight capacity. The model shown here is rated for up to 300 pounds provided the weight is distributed evenly.

This garage loft is not only simple to build, but it can also easily be resized, doubled, or otherwise adapted to suit your particular garage and whatever you need to store.

Measure 30” out from the wall at several points along three joists or the ceiling, and snap another chalk line across these points. This represents the outer edge of the top ledger.

Cut the 2 × 4 bottom wall ledger 75” long. Butt one end in the corner and align the top edge of the board with the bottom chalk line marks. Screw the board face to the studs with 4” wood screws (two per stud).

Cut the top 2 × 4 ledger 75” long and align it with the top marks on the joists or ceiling, butted to the perpendicular wall. Screw the ledger to the joists with 4” wood screws.

Lay the three 2 × 4 × 331/2” vertical supports face down and parallel, spread out on a flat, level work surface. Lay the bottom ledger face down across the base of the supports. Adjust them so that the two outer supports are flush to the outer edges of the ledger, and the third support is exactly centered. The bottom edges of the supports and ledger should be flush. Screw the ledger to the supports with 21/2” wood screws, using three per support.

Screw the tops of the vertical supports to the edge of the top ledger at each joist location. Use three 4” wood screws at each support. Toe-screw each support up into the joist with one 5” wood screw.

Cut 2 × 4 cross braces 30” long. Screw them to the bottoms of the ledgers on both sides, spaced equidistant along the length of the loft structure, using 4” screws.

Rip the 30”-wide platform from a 1/4” plywood sheet. Cut it 72” long and carefully place in into position with the edges resting on the ledgers on either side.

Measure to make sure the first panel will break on the center of a joist. If necessary, cut the panel on the end that abuts the side wall so the panel breaks on the next farthest joist. Load the panel onto a rented panel lift, or use a helper, and lift the panel flat against the joists.

Position the panel with the leading edge on the chalk line and the end centered on a joist. Fasten the panel with appropriately sized screws.

After the first row of panels is installed, begin the next row with a half-panel. This ensures that the butted end joints will be staggered between rows.

Three flooring solutions allow you to paint your floor or cover it up for a fresh, clean appearance, and all are manageable DIY projects. You won’t have to put up with a dull, dirty, or damp garage floor.

Specially formulated epoxy-based paint will give your concrete garage floor a low-cost facelift and comes in a variety of colors from which you can choose.

A power washer does a fast and thorough job of cleaning dirty garage floors prior to painting. Use these tools with caution. If handled carelessly, they are powerful enough to create more mess than they remove.

A power scrubber/buffer can be rented to clean dirty, oily floors and to help work floor treatment products into the concrete surface. These can be tricky to handle at first, so it’s a good idea to practice with plain water before you use the scrubber with chemicals.

General purpose tools that are useful in a floor maintenance and painting project include: (A) a plastic watering can for broadcasting cleaning and finishing chemicals; (B) a push broom; (C) a long-handled squeegee; (D) a long-handled paint roller; (E) a drill outfitted with a paddle-type mixing attachment; (F) a plastic-body garden sprayer for applying chemical treatments.

Rinse the floor thoroughly after sweeping or vacuuming. A simple garden hose can be used for this process, or you can employ a pressure washer for deep cleaning. Use grease-cutting detergent and also scrub with a stiff-bristle brush as necessary to remove oily stains.

Prepare the acid-based etching solution by pouring one cup of muriatic acid into a pump sprayer or a plastic watering can containing clean water for the recommended dilution ratio (see acid container label). Always add acid to water: never add water to acid.

CAUTION: Follow the safety precautions on the acid product container at all times.

Broadcast the acid etching solution with a sprayer or a watering can. Apply it evenly in areas small enough that they will not dry before you can work the acid into the concrete surface (100 sq. ft. at a time is a good guideline).

Work the acid solution into the floor surface with a stiff-bristle push broom or a power scrubber/buffer. Let the acid solution rest for 5 to 10 minutes. A mild foaming action indicates that the product is working.

Neutralize the acid by brushing the floor with a solution of baking soda dissolved in water (1 cup per gallon of water) only after all of the floor surface has been etched. Rinse with a power washer and then vacuum with a wet/dry shop vacuum. Let the floor dry overnight before applying paint.

Rinse the garage floor thoroughly with a hose and clean water, or with a pressure washer. Multiple rinsing is advised.

Vacuum the wet floor thoroughly with a wet/dry shop vacuum after you have finished rinsing it. Vacuuming will help prevent any residue from forming on the floor when it dries.

Use wide painter’s tape to protect walls, and then use a good-quality 4”-wide synthetic-bristle paintbrush to coat the perimeter with sealer.

Use a long-handled paint roller with at least 1/2” nap to apply an even coat to the rest of the surface. Do small sections at a time (about 2 × 3’). Work in one orientation (e.g., north to south). Avoid lap marks by always maintaining a wet edge. Do not work the area once the coating has partially dried; this could cause it to lift from the surface.

Allow the surface to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions, usually 8 to 12 hours minimum. Then apply a second coat in the opposite direction of the first coat. If the first coat was north to south, the second coat should be east to west.

Paint the perimeter of the room with a large brush, making sure to get paint all the way into the corners and up against the bottom of the walls. Feather the paint out on the room side so you do not leave any ridges that will show.

Paint the floor with a long-handled roller extension and a short-nap sleeve. Work from one corner opposite the garage door and make your way to the overhead door. Don’t make the coat too thick; a couple of thin coats is much better than one thick one. Once you have completed the first coat, close all doors and do not open them until the paint has dried. Sweep or vacuum the floor after the first coat (the primer coat) dries. Wear clean shoes and try and get up as much debris as you can.

Apply the second coat of paint in the same manner as you applied the first. Instructions may vary, but in general it isn’t a good idea to apply more than two coats. Reserve any leftover paint for occasional touch-ups in high-wear areas.

Interlocking floor tiles are easy to install because they just snap together, creating a durable floating garage floor that will hold up to wear and tear and even chemical spills. You can customize the look to suit your tastes. Given its long lifespan, this type of flooring is also inexpensive and a great value for money.

Remove any oily stains by scrubbing with detergent and a stiff-bristle brush.

Measure the floor in both directions, and mark the locations of the centerlines.

Snap chalk lines to connect the center points in both directions, forming a point of intersection in the middle of the garage and dividing the floor into four quadrants.

Lay tiles along one leg of the layout reference line, stopping just short of the wall. Snap the tiles together as you work. Use a rubber mallet to gently tap and set the tiles, if necessary.

Adjust the position of the first row of tiles so the last tile will fit just short of the overhead door opening without cutting. It is best to have the cut tiles against the far wall. If you plan to install a beveled transition strip (some, but not all, manufacturers carry them), be sure to allow room for it when repositioning the row. Snap new chalk lines parallel to the originals.

Add tiles along the adjusted reference lines to establish the layout. If you find that one row of tiles will need to terminate with tiles that are cut to a couple of inches or less, adjust the layout side to side so the cut tiles will be evenly balanced at both ends of the line. Fill in the tiles in the field area of all quadrants.

Measure the gaps at the ends of the rows requiring cut tiles and subtract 1/4” for expansion.

Cut the tiles that need cutting with a jigsaw. Be sure to place a backer board underneath the tile. Use a straightedge guide for a clean cut.

Install transition strips at doorways. Not all brands of interlocking tiles have transition strips available.

Add base trim. Conceal the expansion gaps around the perimeter of the installation with molding, such as vinyl-cove base molding.

This illustration indicates all the components of a garage door opener. If your opener style differs, refer to your owner’s manual for clarification.

The drive chain/cable should be packaged in its own dispensing carton. Attach the cable loop to the front of the trolley using the included linking hardware. Wrap the cable around the pulley, then wrap the remaining chain around the drive sprocket on the opener. Finally, attach it to the other side of the trolley with linking hardware. Make sure the chain is not twisted, then attach the cover over the drive sprocket. Tighten the chain by adjusting the nuts on the trolley until the chain is 1/2” above the base of the rail.

To locate the header bracket, first extend a vertical line from the center of the door onto the wall above. Raise the door and note the highest point the door reaches. Measure from the floor to this point. Add 2” to this distance and mark a horizontal line on the front wall where it intersects the centerline. If there is no structural support behind the cross point, fasten 2× lumber across the framing. Then fasten the header bracket to the structural support with the included screws.

Support the opener on the floor with a board or box to prevent stress and twisting to the rail. Attach the rail pulley bracket to the header bracket above the door with the included clevis pin. Then place the opener on a stepladder so it is above the door tracks. Open the door and shim beneath the opener until the rail is 2” above the door.

Hang the opener from the ceiling joists with the included hanging brackets and screws. Angle at least one of the hanging brackets to increase the stability of the unit while in operation. Attach the manual release cord and handle to the release arm of the trolley.

Strip 1/4” of sheathing from the wall-console bell wire. Connect the wire to the screw terminals on the console, then attach it to the inside wall of the garage with the included screws. Run the wires up the wall and connect them to the proper terminals on the opener. Secure the wire to the wall with insulated staples, being careful not to pierce the wire. Install the light bulbs and lenses.

Install the sensor-eye mounting brackets at each side of the garage door, parallel to each other, about 4 to 6” from the floor. The sensor brackets can be attached to the door track, the wall, or the floor, depending upon your garage layout. See the manufacturer’s directions for the best configuration for your garage.

Attach the sensor eyes to the brackets with the included wing nuts but do not tighten the nuts completely. Make sure the path of the eyes is unobstructed by the door tracks. Run wires from both sensors to the opener unit and connect the wires to the proper terminals. Plug the opener into a grounded receptacle and adjust the sensors until the indicator light shows the correct eye alignment (inset), then tighten the wing nuts. Unplug the unit and attach the sensor wires to the walls with insulated staples.

Center the door bracket 2 to 4” below the top of the door. Drill holes and attach the bracket with the included carriage bolts. Connect the straight and curved arm sections with the included bolts. Attach the arm to the trolley and door bracket with the included latch pins. Plug the opener into a grounded receptacle and test the unit. See the manufacturer’s directions for adjustment procedures.

In this chapter:

• Renewing a Garage Floor

• Tuning Up Garage Doors

Renewing a Garage Floor

Over time, exposed concrete surfaces can start to show a lot of wear. Weather, hard use, and problems with the initial pour and finishing are among the most common causes of surface blemishes. But despite a shabby appearance, old concrete is often structurally sound and can last for many more years. So instead of breaking up and replacing an old garage floor, you can easily renew its surface with concrete resurfacer. With this simple application, your concrete will have a freshly poured look and a protective surface layer that’s typically stronger than the garage floor itself.

Concrete resurfacer is suitable for any size of garage floor, outdoors or indoors. You can also apply it to vertical surfaces to put a fresh face on steps, curbs, and exposed patio edges. Depending on the condition of the old surface, the new layer can range in thickness from 1/16 to 1/4 inch. For a smooth finish, spread the resurfacer with a squeegee or trowel. For a textured or nonslip surface, you can broom the surface before it dries or use a masonry brush for smaller applications.

How to Resurface a Garage Floor

Thoroughly clean the entire project area. If necessary, remove all oil and greasy or waxy residue using a concrete cleaner and scrub brush. Water beading on the surface indicates residue that could prevent proper adhesion with the resurfacer; clean these areas again as needed.

Wash the concrete with a pressure washer. Set the washer at 3,500 psi and hold the fan-spray tip about 3” from the surface or as recommended by the washer manufacturer. Remove standing water.

Fill sizeable pits and spalled areas using a small batch of concrete resurfacer. Mix about 5 pt. of water per 40-lb. bag of resurfacer for a trowelable consistency. Repair cracks or broken slab edges as shown here. Smooth the repairs level with the surrounding surface and let them harden.

On a large project, section off the slab into areas no larger than 100 sq. ft. It’s easiest to delineate sections along existing control joints. On all projects, cover or seal off all control joints with duct tape, foam backer rod, or weather stripping to prevent resurfacer from spilling into the joints.

Mix the desired quantity of concrete resurfacer with water following the mixing instructions. Work the mix with a 1/2” drill and a mixing paddle for 5 minutes to achieve a smooth, pourable consistency. If necessary, add water sparingly until the mix will pour easily and spread well with a squeegee.

Saturate the work area with water, then use a squeegee to remove any standing water. Pour the mix of concrete resurfacer onto the center of the repair area or first repair section.

Spread the resurfacer with the squeegee using a scrubbing motion to make sure all depressions are filled. Then spread it into a smooth, consistent layer. If desired, broom the surface for a nonslip finish (opposite page). You can also tool the slab edges with a concrete edger within 20 minutes of application. Let the resurfacer cure.

Nonslip broomed finish: Within 5 minutes of applying the resurfacer, drag a clean fine-bristle push broom across the surface. Pull the broom backward in a straight line, moving across the entire area without stopping. Repeat in parallel rows until the entire surface is textured.

Trowel application: A trowel is handy for resurfacing small areas. Use a stiffer mix for troweling—approximately 5 pt. of water per 40-lb. bag of dry mix. Spread and smooth the resurfacer with a steel concrete finishing trowel.

An understated, stylishly elegant facade like this can make a garage door seem like a simple thing … until you have to deal with mechanical problems.

Remove clogged or damaged rollers from the door by loosening the nuts that hold the roller brackets. The roller will come with the bracket when the bracket is pulled free.

Mineral spirits and kerosene are good solvents for cleaning roller bearings. Let the bearing sit for a half-hour in the solvent. Then brush away the grime buildup with an old paintbrush or toothbrush.

If the rollers are making a lot of noise as they move over the tracks, the tracks are probably out of alignment. To fix this, check the tracks for plumb. If they are out of plumb, the track mounting brackets must be adjusted.

To adjust out-of-plumb tracks, loosen all the track mounting brackets (usually 3 or 4 per track) and push the brackets into alignment.

It’s often easier to adjust the brackets by partially loosening the bolts and tapping the track with a soft-faced mallet. Once the track is plumb, tighten all the bolts.

Sometimes the door lock bar opens sluggishly because the return spring has lost its tension. The only way to fix this is to replace the spring. One end is attached to the body of the lock; the other end hooks onto the lock bar.

If a latch needs lubrication, use graphite in powder or liquid form. Don’t use oil because it attracts dust that will clog the lock even more.

Worn or broken weather stripping on the bottom edge of the door can let in a lot of cold air and stiff breezes. Check to see if this strip is cracked, broken, or has holes along its edges. If so, remove the old strip and pull out any nails left behind.

Measure the width of your garage door, then buy a piece of weather stripping to match. These strips are standard lumber yard and home center items. Sometimes they are sold in kit form, with fasteners included. If not, just nail the stripping in place with galvanized roofing nails.

If the chain on your garage door opener is sagging more than 1/2” below the bottom rail, it can make a lot of noise and cause drive sprocket wear. Tighten the chain according to the directions in the owner’s manual.

On openers with a chain, lubricate the entire length of the chain with lightweight oil. Do not use grease. Use the same lubricant if your opener has a drive screw instead.

Test the door’s closing force sensitivity and make adjustments at the opener’s motor case if needed. Because both the sensitivity and the adjustment mechanism vary greatly between opener models, you’ll have to rely on your owner’s manual for guidance. If you don’t have the owner’s manual, you can usually download one from the manufacturer’s website.

Check for proper alignment on the safety sensors near the floor. They should be pointing directly at one another and their lenses should be clean of any dirt and grease.

Make sure that the sensors are “talking” to the opener properly. Start to close the door, then put your hand down between the two sensors. If the door stops immediately and reverses direction, it’s working properly. If it doesn’t, make the adjustment recommended in the owner’s manual. If that doesn’t do the trick, call a professional door installer and don’t use the door until it passes this test.

RIGHT ELEVATION

RIGHT ELEVATION

RIGHT ELEVATION

RIGHT ELEVATION

RIGHT ELEVATION

RIGHT ELEVATION