Sheds & Outbuildings
Black & Decker The Complete Guide To Gazebos & Arbors Ideas, Techniques
Source: Black & Decker The Complete Guide To Gazebos & Arbors Ideas, Techniques.pdf
Source file: Black & Decker The Complete Guide To Gazebos & Arbors Ideas, Techniques.pdf
The Complete Guide to
Philip Schmidt
Creative Publishing
international
MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA
www.creativepub .com
(j
Creative Publishing
international
copyright © 2007 President/CEO: Ken Fund
Creative Publishing international, Inc.
400 First Avenue North, Suite 300 Home Improvement Group
Minneapolis, MN 55401
Publisher: Bryan Trandem
1-800-328-3895
wwwcreativepub.com Managing Editor: Tracy Stanley
All rights reserved Senior Editor: Mark Johanson
Editor: Jennifer Gehlhar
Printed in China Senior Design Manager: Brad Springer
Design Managers: Jon Simpson, Mary Rohl
10987654321
Production Artist: Dave Schelitzche
Digital ISBN: 978-1-61673-313-1
Softcover ISBN: 978-1-5892-3285-3 Director of Photography: Tim Himsel
Lead Photographer: Steve Galvin
Library of congress Photo Coordinators: Julie Caruso, Joanne Wawra
Cataloging in Publication on file Shop Manager: Randy Austin
Production Managers: Linda Halls, Laura Hokkanen
Author: Philip Schmidt
Project Designer: Brian K. Nelson
Page Layout Artist: Kari Johnston
Photographers: Peter Caley, Joel Schnell, Andrea Rugg
THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GAZEBOS & ARBORS
Created by: The Editors of Creative Publishing international, Inc., in cooperation with Black & Decker.
Black & Decker" is a trademark of The Black & Decker Corporation and is used under license.
NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care , and good judgment when following the procedures described in this
book. The publ isher and Black & Decker cannot assume responsibi lity for any damage to property
or injury to persons as a result of misuse of the information provided . The techniques shown in this
book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances , additional techniques not
shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers' safety warnings and instructions
included with products. Deviation from the directions may create injury exposure and void warranties.
The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required . Some may not be appropriate for all
do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help. Consult your local building department
fo r information on building permits , codes, and other laws as they apply to your project.2 •
€ontents The Complete Guide to Gazebos & Arbors
Introduction … . .. 4 party Shelter … . … . … 166 Wall of Arbors … … 182 The Inspiration … 6 Freestanding Arbor … 186 Arbors … . … 8 Trellis Gate … … ..... .•… .194 Gazebos … … … 10 pergolas … 12 The Nuts & Bolts … … … 204 Pavilions & Summerhouses … 14 Buying Lumber … 206 Finishes for Outdoor projects … 207 Drawing Board … 16 Choosing a Site … . … 18 other Building Materials … 208
Building Codes & zoning Laws … 20 Hardware & Fasteners … 210 Planning for Sun & Shade … 22 Tools … 211 Working with Plans … 24 Building Foundations … 212 concrete Pier Foundation concrete Slab Foundation Gazebo & Arbor Projects … 26 Setting Posts in Concrete Arbor Retreat … 28 Cutting Roof Rafters … 222 Lattice Gazebo … .. … 40 Roofing … 226 Classical pergola … . … 52 Sheathing & Building Paper Wood & Copper Arbor … 64 Asphalt Shingles 3-Season Gazebo … 74 Cedar Shingles Gabled Entry … 90 Metal Roofing Umbrella Arbor … .. … 102 Working with Copper Pipe … 234 Pool Pavilion … .. … .. •… 110 Summerhouse … 122 Resources … … ... .... 236 Corner Lounge … 136 Photo Credits … … ... .... 236 Classic 8-Sided Gazebo … .... 148 Index … 237
• 3
IIntroduction
G arden stru ctures are born of a unique ble nd of arc hi tec ture and landscaping. Whil e th ey defin e our natural spaces an d provide co mfortable roo ms for outdoo r living, th ey are often just as scul ptural and ornamental as th ey are practi cal. They are have ns for people and plants alike. Vines love to climb th e framework, and in doing so th ey create a cool shady spot for lounging. Gaze bos and arbors- both quintesse nti a l ga rd e n structures- re prese nt a range of outdoor arc hitec ture meant for everything from alfresco dining to aftern oo n naps; thus th e inspiration for thi s boo k. All 15 original building projects are va ri ati ons on th e th eme of better outdoo r li ving. Some tend towa rd th e exo ti c, like th e lattice-wa ll ed gazebo inspired by Japanese tea houses, whil e oth e rs are playful and li ghthea rted , like th e arbor that mimi cs a beac h umbre ll a. O f course, th ere are pl enty of traditi onal favo ri tes , including a stately ga rden pergo la with classica l co lum ns and a 6-s ided gaze bo des igned for yea r-ro und use. Eac h p rojec t comes with co mpl ete plans and in struc- tions on how to build th e stru cture . Once yo u’ve picked a project, have th e plans reviewed by th e loca l building and zoning departm ents to make sure yo ur projec t co nform s to the building codes in yo ur area. Finally, when it co mes to decorative detail s, don’t be afraid to embelli sh. After all , an outdoo r roo m, li ke a ga rde n, is best whe n marked by perso nal touches.
Introc/lI c/,ion • 5
IThe Inspiration
T ime to dream. Wh en you look through th e ki tchen window and out over th e yard, what’s missing? Wh at co uld yo u place in th e ga rde n to make it th e perfec t outdoor re treat? And what about that spot just beyond the hedge, or on th e dec k, or by th e pool?
In This Section • Arbors • Gazebos • Pergolas • Pavilions & Summerhouses
The Inspi ration • 7
A deep arbor with built-in
seating is both an inviting
destination and a casual
outdoor room.
Lightweight. trellis-like
arbors often playa
supporting role in dramatic
garden presentations.8 • T H E INSP I RAT I ON
Arbors I B ig brother to the trellis, a n a rbor ca n be With its s impl e form , a n a rbor conveys a se nse anything from a qu aint a rc hway ove r a ga r- of we llbe in g, es pec ia ll y when host to a ta ngle of d en ga te to a hea vy timb e r stru ct ure s had- leafy c limbe rs o r bundles of co lorful bloo ms. As in g a n e ntire patio. A typi ca l design uses post-and- an inh e re ntl y ve rsa til e struc ture , an a rb or ca n bea m co nstruc tion , with hori zo nta l roo f s lats pro- arch over a pa th , beco me a ca nopy a bove a ga rde n vidin g not only s hade but a lso s upp ort fo r c limbing benc h , or se rve as a foca l point to brea k up a la rge pla nt s an d vin es. expanse of ground .
Adding simple custom details to a
garden structure make it seem right at home.One traditional use of arbors is to create fragrant. light-dappled tunne ls to draw strollers between areas of the grounds.
Decorative arbors (right) make beautiful focal points and are perfect for showcasing special garden accents.
Arbors • 9Nestled among trees, an intimate gazebo becomes a specia l “surprise” destination.
A lean frame makes the most of a gazebo’s 360 view, 0
while screening provides a haven from bugs.
10 • T H E INS PIRATION
Gazebos I enerally d efin ed as a frees tandin g, roofed
G W ith four, six, or eight sy mm et ri cal sides, gaze- struc ture (oft en intended for enjoying a bos have a sc ulptural bea uty th at enh ances almost ni ce view), th e gazebo has bee n re in te r- an y se ttin g. T he re’s ju st a spec ia l fee ling yo u ge t preted throughout hi story. There are classical ver- in side a gazebo, wh eth e r it’s pe rched on a hill s ide sions with Greek column s, O ri ental styles with co mm andin g a panorami c view or tuc ked in th e pago da roofs, and ru sti c Ame ri ca n exa mpl es made co rn er of a ga rd e n be nea th ove rh angin g limbs. It of rough-hewn logs . Today, backya rd gaze bos can is perhaps th e best exa mpl e of th e pe rfec t bala nce bea r th e in flue nce of Victori a n to Co loni a l styles of en clos ure and openn ess th at onl y an outdoor a nd eve rything in be tween. ro om ca n offe r.
The gazebo's unusual form inspires
creative designs- for walls, roof, and
decoration .In the off-season, a classic gazebo adds a touch of nostalgia to a winter landscape.
The temple of love (right), an ancient form of gazebo, exemplifies the gazebo’s character as both showpiece and sanctuary.
Gazebos • 11
wrapped in fragrant roses, the formal backdrop
of a pergola makes for a romantic summer setting.12 • T H E INSP I RAT I ON
Pergolas I M od e rn p e rgo las a re m o re oft e n f rees t a ndin g
A Gre co-Rom a n in ve nti on , th e pergola origin a te d as a n ex t e nsion to ~ buildin g, a nd m o n olithi c, but th ey s till ec ho th e m aj es ti c a n aw nin g w ith stru c tura l h e ft th a t co lumn a nd h eavy be am c on s tru c tion of th e ir bridged a n inte rior a nd th e outdoors . a n c ie nt a n ces to rs .
Pergolas are great for defining pathways
and for soften ing the edge between home
and ga rden.A pergola with just the right amount of shading members, or accessories, creates the perfect outdoor dining room.
Pergolas • 13A pavilion with surrounding vegetation adds privacy and convenient shelter for a backyard pool area .
14 • T H E INSP I RAT I ON
Pavilions & Summerhouses I
P avilions a nd summ erhouses are free-stand- to waft in and out th an ks to th e open sides- th e ing, fair-weather structures. They offer a perfect co mpan ion to a swimming pool or play yard. quaint and intimate se ttin g unm atc hed by Summerhouse is self-explanatory. The word their distant co us in , the gazebo . a lon e evokes th e so unds of lapping waves and A pavilion can range from a striped canvas beach cricke ts chirpin g at nighttime. Is there anythin g hut to an open-air, public arcade . In esse nce, it is a better than an outdoor room with a co t waiting in shelter from th e sun , but it also allows cool breezes th e corn er for a midday nap?
Like a giant umbrella, an open
pavilion gives you a break from the sun
with almost no fee ling of enclosure.The relaxed and cozy atmosphere of a screened summerhouse makes it a special place at any hour.
Pavilions & SU1JUller/wuses • 15
IThe DraV\Ting Board
B ig or small, th ese projects require some planning. Take a little tim e up front to run through th e deta ils, check with the local building departments (and your neighbors ), and make sure you’re placing th e new structure where yo u’ll get th e most fro m it.
In This Section • Choosing a Site • Building Codes & Zoning Laws • Planning for Sun & Shade • Working with Plans
The DraWing Board • 17
\ \
\ \
\ \
\- -
'.\
\
\ \
\ \
\ \
\ \
\ \
\ \
\ \
\ \
\ \
\ \
\ \
\ \
\ \
\ \
\ \18 • T H E DRAW ING BOARD
Choosing a Site I P lacement and orientation can have a huge the street or a neighbor’s ugly storage shed. A more impact on how much yo u enjoy an outdoor promin ent structure ca n serve as a focal point, draw- structure. The fo llowing co nsiderations ing yo ur eye to th e ga rden or framing a d istant view. should help yo u decide what you really wan t from the new space and alert you to comm on pitfalls. Your view of the house Whe n you’re loun ging in your gazebo or ente rtaining What’s the use? under yo ur pergola, what will yo u see? Often the best That is, how do you plan to use your new structure? view is tha t of your own house. Of course, if you If yo u wa nt a priva te getaway fo r daydrea ming or nap- have n’t painted in a whil e, you might not wa nt th at ping, tuck the structure in to a co rn er of the ga rden or consta nt re minder. behind a fence or a dense group of plantings. If you plan to dine in yo ur outdoor roo m you’ll pro babl y Consult thy neighbor want it close to the house fo r co nvenience. Also co n- sider which seasons you spend th e mos t time out- Do n’t jeo pardi ze that Good C itize n award by be ing side. T hi s allows yo u to pl an for th e right amount of secretive about your project. If your new structure sunligh t and shelter fro m the elements (see page 22). will have any im pact on your neighbors’ lots or views, d isc uss yo ur plans with th em. Your view from the house Soil & drainage Place ment affec ts the privacy in the outdoo r space as wel l as the structure’s impact on the look of your Fo r obvious reasons, choose an area with solid soil , yard. A space th at’s not visible from th e house is con- and avo id sites where wate r collects. Be aware of gut- siderably more private; howeve r, if yo ur kids will use ter downspo uts and th e pa th s water takes in heavy it, you might want it in plain sight. You may want to ra ins. It’s muc h eas ie r to move a stru cture th an to strategica ll y locate th e structure to bloc k yo ur view of redesign yo ur home’s drainage.
When planning a gazebo
or arbor project, consider
how the finished design
will fit in with the natura l
surroundings and how
it will look from your house.
Choosing a Site . 19
Your initial plansshou ld take into account: structure location, wind, sun, views from the house, and landscaping.
Once you have the
architecturalrenderings, you must have the project approved by the city. Include as many details in your plan proposal as possible- including material you intend to use.
20 • T H E DR AW ING BOARD
Building Codes & Zoning La1NS I s loath as you may be to con sult th e auth ori- • Building size and height.
A ties about yo ur personal project, it’s impor- ta nt to get the go -ahead fro m th e b uilding and zoning departm ents. T hey can review your plans • Easements: Restri cted zones on your property th at mu st be left open fo r utilities, e merge ncy access, or other contingencies .. and note any design modifi cati ons necessary to make • Allowable lot coverage: The total area or yo ur project safe and legal for yo ur area . ] ust give perce ntage of your lot th at ca n be cove red with th em a call to find out about th e process. Usually, it’s buildings . quite simple. In many muni c ipalities, it’s also th e law. Call before you dig Building code T h e famili ar public se rvice message is aim ed T he building code outlin es safety and stru ctural directl y at yo u- and anyo ne e lse pl anning to make standards fo r all types of buildings in a give n h oles in th eir yard. Don ‘t forget th at lurking b enea th muni cipali ty. It supercedes all nati onal, regional, and your well -tended lawn are gas and p ower lines, state building codes. Beca use it’s impossible for any tele phone and TV cables, and poss ibly plumbing single projec t design- including those in thi s book- d ra in s (th at mea ns sewage) . T hey may b e close r th e to meet th e requireme nts of all codes , the local code surface th an yo u think. Utility co mp ani es will co me sets th e sta ndards fo r yo ur spec ific co ndi t ions. OLi t and mark your lin es fo r free, so th ere’s no exc u se Depend ing on th e projec t, th e build ing departme nt for acc identally cuttin g into a 100-amp elec tri cal might require th at yo u get a permi t and pass li ne with a steel sh ovel. sc hedul ed inspec ti ons. If so, you can be fin ed for not Mos t states are pa rt of th e North Ameri can O ne ge tting on e . Call Re ferral Syste m, whi ch will co ntac t all of th e utilities in yo ur area and noti fy th em of your con- zoning laws structi on plans. Utili ty compani es th at have lines in These gove rn a number of restri ctions th at may your yard will automati call y se nd out a represe ntative directly affec t yo ur p roject, includin g: to mark the lines. Call 888-258-0808. • Setback from property line: How c losely to your property line yo u can build. T hi s may range from 6” to 3’ or more.
The Right-brained Approach Feeling creative? You might find it helpful to draw automatically sets the scale for you so you a site plan of your lot and use it to experiment with don’t have to do the math . Trying to make scaled different ideas. If you have your home’s original drawings with a standard ruler will quickly blueprints, make copies at a copy store, or use become tedious. tracing paper to create your plan sketches. Create a complete picture by adding trees, Otherwise, you can just take rough measurements plantings, fences, pathways, and other items in of your house and yard and scale them down to your yard. Mark the locations of your home’s a workable size, such as 1/8” = 1’0” . windows and doors, as well as gutter downspouts Make it easy on yourself by buying a cheap, and yard drainages. Finally, include the site’s plastic scale ruler at an art supply store. This orientation to the sun and prevailing winds.
Building Codes • 21I Planning for Sun & Shade unli ght is an integral part of any outdoor
S space. How yo u bloc k or filte r it sets th e tone
of a structure's interi or and largely di ctates
how th e sp ace is used . Anoth er con siderati on is June 22
how yo ur stru cture will shade or refl ec t li ght onto
neighboring areas, such as a ga rde n. ,, • ..,,
, Mar/Sept 22
\ 4f#''' -
,,
Seasonal sunlight
Eac h day th e sun crosses th e sky at a sli ghtly differ- )'
",
,, ,\ .
" " I
I
,,
ent angle, moving fro m its high point in summer to I
its low poin t in winter. Shadows change accordingly.
i-'--""- -,' .' , Dec 22
I _ - - - - ...
In th e summ er, shadows follow the eas t-west axis ,--r" ..
and are ve lY short at midday. Winter shadows point
• 41' • • ,
, • • • • • • • • •
,, ,
, I
to th e north east and northwest and are relatively
long at midday.
Ge nerally, th e south side of a building is exposed , ,
, ,
to sunlight throughout th e year, whil e th e north side
, ,
may be shaded in fall , winter, and spring. Geo- ,,
gra phical locati on is also a factor: as you move
north from th e equator, the changes in th e sun's The sun moves from its high point in summer to its low point
path become more extreme. in winter Shadows change acco rdingly.
Summer Winter
afternoon evening
Winter
afternoon
Summer
evening
Winter
morning
Summer
morningShadows follow the east-west axis in the summe r. Winter shadows point to the northeast and northwest and are relatively long at midday.
22 • T H E D RAW IN G BOARD
A good amount of detail should be put into slat design for Knowing when and how you most use your patio will allow overheads. Changing the size and orientation of slats allows you to plan for shade at the perfect times. you to customize the amount of shade they provide at different times of the day.
Designing with Shade Note~ If yo u’re bui lding an arbor or pergo la to create an overh ead to an outdoor room , you ca n easily modi fy Just like the old rule of never leaving your tools on th e roof slats to mee t your needs. The first thing to top of a ladder, don’t leave any unfastened slats on dec ide is when yo u will use th e space th e most: your structure-airborne lumber is never a good morning, afternoon , or evening? H ow much shade thing. Also, however you decide to layout your slats, or sunli ght do you want at your favo rite tim es? have you r plans reviewed by the building You ca n modify your projec t by changing th e size, department, to make sure the structure wil l hold up orientation , number, and spacing of the overh ead under local weather conditions. slats or cross pieces. For exa mpl e, yo u might decide to slant th e slats for a desired effect. With basic arbor and pergo la projects, yo u ca n experime nt with slat options during th e building Mother Nature’s method process. After th e primary structure of posts and Vines on a roof kn ow how to deal with th e sun. In ma in beams are in place, lay th e slats on top in summer, when vines are fu ll of leaves, they provide different co nfigurations. Permanently fasten th em shade when it’s needed most. In winter, th e sun afte r yo u find th e ri ght arrangement. passes through th e ir bare branches.
PLanning for Sun (, Shade • 23
I Working with Plans
back and fo rth between this and th e two-dimensional
T
he projec ts in thi s book in clude complete con-
struction draw ings in th e style of architec tural plans allow you to visualize th e ac tual structure.
blueprints. If you're not used to reading plans, Shown he re are th e va ri ous plan views used in
do n't worry; th ey're easy to use once yo u kn ow how to thi s book. Occass ionall y you will see "Typ." This
look at the differe nt views . Each projec t also includes stands for "typical" and mean s th e detai l applies to
a 3-D model of th e completed structure . Flipping all similar e lements.
_~- WOOD SHAKES
_ _- ROOf HU8
~- 2X8 HIPRAffiR BEYOND
2X8INTERMEDIATf. RAFTER
10 [[D [[11[0[011 EAVE DETAIL
(2) lX8X8TREATED CENTER
PIER PAD· SHIM TO PROPER
WOOD STAIR
The building CONCRETEsection is the most PIER
comprehensivedrawi ng, givi ng you a 12’ DIA. POURED CONCRETE PIER· EXTEND BELOW FROST LINE side view of the structu re sliced in half down the middle. It shows both the framing and finish elements.
24 • T H E DRAW IN G BOARDElevations give you a direct, exterior view of the bu ilding from all sides. Plans may include elevations fo r both the fram ing and the exterior finishes.
Plan views are overhead perspectives
looking straight down from above the structure.
Floor plans show the layout of the walls or upright
supports, with the top half of the structure sliced
off. There are also foundation plans, roof framing
plans, and other plan views.
---- - ---- --- _ ...... _----------------------------,
- - --- ._ ............... _--------_._-------- ,
/,·iliP~~~~~~~~~I\:'" .....c
. -. - NXJ'
~~- . . . .-
'.,\' " " :X=TOOKDI:;BtWIOS
\\-
SIMPSON LSSQ f! Tl£ BEAM TO POST
BEAMAIIClVI: W/SIMPSONH8
ORSIMlAR
Detail drawings and templates show a
close-up of a specific area or part of the
structure. They typically show a side or
overhea d perspective.
Working w il." Plans • 25
IGazebo & Arbor Projects
In This Section • Arbor Retreat • Lattice Gazebo • Classical Pergola • Wood & Copper Arbor • 3-Season Gazebo • Gabled Entry • Umbrella Arbor • Pool Pavilion • Summerhouse • Corner Lounge • Classic 8-Sided Gazebo • Party Shelter • Wall of Arbors • Freestanding Arbor • Trellis Gate
Gazebo & A rbor Proj ects • 27I Arbor Retreat T he a iry, sun-filte red space unde r a n a rbor perfec t as a grand ga rd en entrance or a landsca pe always m akes you wa nt to stay aw hi le- foca l point. For added seclusion , tuck thi s arbor thus, it’s a pe rfec t p lace for bu ilt-in sea tin g. behind so me fo liage. Th e arbor ge taway we’ve c hose n (page 30) has Sitting in side th e Retreat you ca n enj oy privacy ple nty of ro om for loun ging or visiti ng, but it’s and shade be hind the lattice screens. T he side roof designed to do mu c h more: Viewed from the front , sec tions over t he seats are lowe red to foll ow a more th e Arbor Retrea t beco mes an e lega nt passageway. human sca le and create a cozier sense of e nclos ure. The bench sea ting is obsc ured by latti cewo rk, and Eac h bench co mfortably fits three peop le and th e yo ur eyes are drawn towa rd th e ce ntral openin g and two sides face eac h ot her at a range th at’s idea l for strikin g horizo ntal bea ms. This makes th e structure conve rsa ti on.
28 • GAZ EBO & A RB O R PRO JEC T S
We found plenty of ideas for our Arbor Retreat (page 30); several of them are shown in these original structures: extended beams for hanging flowers or training vines (opposite page); comfortable seating for two or more (top); and light screening at the sides to establish a strong sense of space while maintaining an airy feel.
Arbor Retreat • 29I Material List Description (NO. finished pieces) Quantity/Size Material Posts Inner posts (4) 4 @ field measure 4x4 Outer posts (4) 4 @ field measure 4x4 Concrete Field measure 3,000 PSI concrete Gravel Field measure compactable gravel Roof Beams (6 main, 4 cross) 8 @ 8’ 4x4 Roof slats (10 lower, 11 upper) 21 @8’ 2x2 Seats Seat supports, spacers, slats 16 @8’ 2x6 (6 horizontal supports, 6 vertical supports, 4 spacers, 16 slats) Aprons (2) 2 @ 6’ 1x 8 Lattice Screens Arches (4) 1 @ 8’ 2x8 Slats-arched sides (20 horizontal, 8 vertical) 12 @8’ 2x2 Slats-back (8) 8 @ 8’ 2x 2 Hardware & Fasteners 3;E ” x 7” galvanized lag screws 12, with washers 3” deck screws 3’112” deck screws 2’112” deck screws 1/4” x 3” galvanized lag screws 16, with washers
30 • GAZEBO&ARBORPHOJECTS
4X4 CROSS BEAM
2X2 ROOF SLAT WI' " ROUND-OVER AT
ENDS,TYP.
4X4BEAMW/'" - ____
ROUND-OVER AT ENDS, TYP.
4X4 CROSS BEAM
WII" ROUND-OVER AT I Arbor Retreat
ENDS,TYP.
Beam End Detail4X4 BEAM WI ’” ROUND-OVER ATENDS, TYP.
ARCH CUT FROM
2XB
2X2 SCREEN
SLATS
4X4 POST2X6 SEAT BACK SUPPORT BEYOND
2X6 SEATSUPPORT
BEYOND
I Arbor Retreat
Front Elevation
2X2 ROOF SLAT
4X4 BEAM WI' "
ROUND-OVER AT ENDS,TYP.
I Arbor Retreat
4X4 CROSS BEAM
Post Layout
WI' "ROUND-OVER AT
t
ENDS,TW
8'-8"
2X2 SLAT
4'-{}" 2'-4"
24"
>i<--
I
o o
~~
4X4 POST
L.NERPaST
2X2 SCREEN
SLATS 4X4 OUTERPOST
2X2 BACK
LAniCE SCREEN SUPPORT
2X6 SEAT BACK
SUPPORT ~
2X6 SEAT SUPPORT
I Arbor Retreat
Side Elevation "k-_ D o o o
Arbor Retreat • 31I Arbor Retreat upper Level Roof Framing Plan 4X4 OUTER POST
/ ( 4X4 UPPER MAIN BEAM
5'
~ 1" -4X4INNER POST
4X4 BEAMS BELOW
V 4X4 UPPER CROSS BEAM I Arbor Retreat
Seat Framing Plan
~ 2XVERTlCAl SUPPORT
,o
SPACER, TYPICAL AT
~~~~':::'::o POST LOCATIONS
6'-7"
2X6 SEAT SUPPORT
I)'-{)" I)'-{)"
2X6 SEAT BACK SUPPORT
~
0' '0
I Arbor Retreat
Roof/Slat Plan
I Arbor Retreat
5'-)" Slat Plan @ Seating
r t
'1n r/'~ lXlSLATS Sl/4·TYP.
V
U~ 11 1"1 1" 11'~I~
J 1/2"
BEAM
,=""~
V
11/2"
l- I-
e-
- n , '"
~
I
I
n I- - I-
CENTERLINE
DIMENSIONST
,,--- I- - f - I- I- I "
l- I- - I- ~
l- '--'--- I- - f- I- I-
II I I '" II I
II I I '" II lXlLDWER
ROOF SLATS
J
II I I '" II
II I I '" II
II I I '" II I
II I I '" II I
lJ I I '" II I
l- I- -
II I I '" II I I- - l-
I ,,--- I- - I- I- I- I "
I- I- - U ~
I U
I- ~
I- '--'--- I- - f- I- I- . ~
'---
U '" ~ . CENTERLINE
DIMENSIONS
4X4 CROSS BEAM 4X4 CROSS BEAM32 • GAZEBO&ARBORPHOJECTS
I Arbor Retreat "-9'
I Arbor Retreat
Arch Detail
Seat Section f f
~rv; ~ ~ \.... l '·l'RAD1US
ARCH FRO M2X8
-I I f 4X4PDST
/ I
V ~
' - 1 - - - 4X4 CROSS BEAM l ~~
----+-+--- 4X4POST
S
2X2 VERISLATS -
t--
t---
P-?s ~
l-
2XV'ERT1CAL 1--':'
WiSUPPORT SPACER 2X2 CKSCREEN SLATS BETWEEN SEAT BACK SUPPORT AND POST 2X2SCREEN SLATS l- S ~ ~
j --':' I-
S
P-?s
2X6 BACK SLATS
2X6SLOPED 2X6 SEAT SLATS
SEAT BACK ~
SUPPORT [ l --':'
~ 2'·)" I, S
o
o
I" OVERHANG P ...:..:.~
2X6SLOPED
IX APRON
S
~
SEAT SUPPORT ] -1-
" 2'-S1ft
11/2' l J 1/2' 73/4" 51/2' 73/4' ~
~
18Y
"
I Arbor Retreat
Screen Layout
I Arbor Retreat
Seat Level Roof Framing Plan
3'-01/2" 3'-01/2"
1'-0" 1'-0'
J
I<--- n n I n
4X41NNER POST
4X4 LOWER MAIN BEAM
2XVERTICAL
SUPPORT SPACER
J./ h
i'-
i'- 2X6 SEAT SLATS
BETWEEN SEAT BACK WITH 3116" SPACING
4X4 OUTER POST BELOW
SU PPORT AND POST
4X4 LOWER CROSS BEAM i'- IX APRON
~
I'-- 2X6 SEAT SUPPORT
2X6SEAT
BACK SUPPORT
1
I<--- U -.l L u
L
I Arbor Retreat
Seat Slat Layout Plan
Arbor Retreat • 33I How to Build the Arbor Retreat Step A: Set the Posts make one using a sta ndard 4-ft. level and a stra ight 2 X 4. Tape th e level to a straight edge of a 7-ft.- or 1. Trea t th e bottoms of th e pos ts fo r rot-resistance 8-ft .- long 2 X 4 so th e level is roughl y cen tered along (see page 220). th e boa rd’s length. 2. Layout th e eight post loca ti ons on th e ground , 2. M eas ure up from th e ground and mark one of foll owing th e POST LAYOUT P LAN on page 32 . th e inner posts at 84”. Using th e long leve l, transfe r 3. Follow th e basic p rocedure shown on page 220 th e height ma rk to the remaining inner posts. to set th e pos ts in co ncrete . Ma ke sure th e size and 3. Mark one of th e outer posts 72” from the ground , depth of th e pos t holes co nform to th e loca l building and th e n transfer th at mark to the oth er outer posts. code . T he post heights don’t have to be exact at this 4. C ut th e posts to length (see C utting Lumber stage; however, th e four inner pos ts must stand at Posts, be low). C ut ca refull y so th e post to ps are fl at least 84” above th e ground. T he four oute r posts and level. must be at least 72” above the grou nd. Set up mason’s lines to make sure th e posts are perfec tly ali gned and th e layo ut is sq uare . Step C: Cut & Shape the Beams 4. Pour th e concrete and let it dry co mpl etely T he Arbo r Retreat has two levels of roof bea ms. The lowe r sea t level has four short main bea ms running step B: Cut the Posts to Length perpendi cul ar to th e seats and two cross bea ms run - ning para ll el to th e seats (see SEAT LEVE L ROOF 1. You need a long leve ling tool to mark the posts FRAM ING PLAN, on page 33 .) The up pe r leve l has fo r c utting. If you don’t own a 6-ft. leve l, you can
DIY Tip ~ Cutting Lumber Posts
4 X 4 and 6 X 6 posts can be tricky to cut,
especially when the post is already standing.
Here are some tips for making accurate cuts.
If the combination of power saws and ladders
doesn't jive with you, a sharp handsaw can always do
the trick, and often with greater accuracy. Start the cut
carefully, and watch your lines as you work.
Remember: standard handsaws cut only on the push
stroke; don't waste energy by applying pressure on
the pu ll stroke.
Extend your cutting line all the way around the post. Use
a speed or com bination square. This helps you keep you r saw
on track as you cut from differen t sides of the post.34 • GAZEBO &ARBOR PR O JECTS
Align the posts w ith mason’s lines, and use cross bracing Use a 6-ft. level or a standard level and 2 x 4 to mark each to keep the posts plumb while the concrete sets. set of posts at a uniform height.
When cutting with a circular saw, A reciprocating saw with a long, Power miter saws are the easiest tool set the saw blade to maximum depth. woodcutting blade makes it easy to cut for cutting 4 x 4s on a workbench and Cut all the way around the post, moving through posts in a single pass Be careful don’t require a continuous cutting line. To from one side to the next. Be careful to to keep the saw steady and level to cut a 6 x 6-if you r saw can stay on your cutting lines, so the cut ensure a straight cut. accommodate one-set up a stop block. surface will be flat. On a 6 x 6, you can This allows you to evenly rotate the post, cut all four sides, then finish off the cutting from all sides. center with a handsaw. Because a handsaw blade is thinner than a circular saw blade, keep the handsaw flat against the wood as you cut.
Arbor Retreat • 35
two main beams and two cross bea ms (see UPPER
LEVEL ROOF FRAM ING PLAN, page 32).
All of the beams are 4 x 4s and have one or two
ends rounded over at the bottom corn ers (see BEAM
END DETAIL, on page 31). T hi s is an optional dec-
orative deta il that gives th e project a fin ished loo k.
I. C ut th e lowe r sea t level main beams to length
at 36 1;2". C ut the lower seat level cross beams at 84".
2. C ut the upper leve l main bea ms to lengt h at
79". Cut the upper level cross beams at 96".
3. Shape the beam ends, if desired, using a router
with a rou ndover bit. Or, yo u can simpl y make a 45°
bevel c ut with a saw. The up per level mai n beams
and al l four c ross beams are shaped at both e nds.
The sho rt, lower level ma in bea ms are shaped on ly at
the au tside ends.
step D: Install the Lower Main
Beams
I. For eac h of th e lower leve l ma in beams, set the
beam on top of an outer post and butt its unshaped
end agai nst the corresponding inner post. Hold theRound over the bottom corners of the beams using a router beam level, and mark where the top face of the beam and a roundover bit of desired size. meets the inner post. Set the beam as ide. 2. On the opposite (inside) face of th e in ner post, mark a point for dri lling a pilot hol e so the hole will be ce nte red on th e e nd of the beam. 3. At eac h pilot hole mark, drill a co unterbo red hol e ju st deep enough to co mpl etely recess t he wash- er and head of a 3AJ” x 7” lag screw. 4. Repos ition eac h beam so its top face is on the post refe re nce line. Holding th e bea m in place, dri ll a pi lot hole for the lag screw through the inner post and into the end of the beam. Fasten eac h main beam with a 3AJ” x 7” lag sc rew. 5. Drill a co unterbored pil ot hole down through th e top of eac h lowe r level main beam and in to the end of its outer post. Faste n the beam to the post with a 3AJ” x 7” lag screw. Make sure the head of th e screw is flu sh or sli ghtl y recessed into the beam (see photo E, page 37).
step E: Install the Lower Cross
Beams & Roof Slats
I. Position the lower (84" ) cross beams on top of
the lower main beams so they are centered over the
outer posts and overhang the main beams by 6" at both
ends (see SEAT LEVEL ROOF FRAMING PLAN).
2. Dri ll angled pilot holes through the sides of theTest-fit the main beams to the posts, then drill counterbored cross beams and into the main bea ms, abou t 3/4” in pilot holes and fasten the beams with lag screws. from the sides of th e ma in bea ms (to avoid hitt ing the
36 • GAZEBO &ARBOR PROJECTS
lag sc rews). Drill two holes total on eac h side of the cross bea m at each joint. 3. Fas te n the cross beams to the main bea ms wi th 3 1;2 ” deck sc rews (eight sc rews total per cross bea m). 4. C ut the 10 lower roof slats to length at 78” . 5. Mark th e roof slat layout onto th e tops of th e lowe r main bea ms, following th e S LAT PLAN @ SEAT ING drawing, on page 32. 6. Pos ition th e slats on th e layo ut so th ey overh ang the main bea ms by 3” at both ends. Drill pilot holes, and fas te n th e slats to th e main beams with 2 1;2 ” deck sc rews.
step F: Install the Upper Main Beams, Cross Beams & Roof Slats I. Position th e upper main bea ms on top of the inner posts so th ey overh ang th e posts by 12” at both end s (see UPPE R LEVEL ROO F FRAMi NG PLAN ). C hec k th e fit of th e joints, and make adjust- ments as needed for a good fit. 2. At eac h pos t loca tion , drill a co unterbored pilot hole and sec ure the beam to the pos t wit h a 3;8” x 7” lag screw with was her, just as yo u di d to fas te n th e Fasten the cross beams to the main beams with screws set lowe r ma in bea ms to th e outer pos ts. at an angle. Countersink the screws for best appearance. 3. Position th e upper cross bea ms ove r th e upper main beams so th ey are centered over the inner posts and ove rhang th e main bea ms by 12” at eac h end . 4. Drill pil ot holes. Fasten th e cross bea ms to the main bea ms with 3 1;2” dec k sc rews, just as yo u did with th e lowe r cross beams. 5. C ut th e II upper roof slats to le ngth at 67 ”. 6 . M ark th e slat layout onto th e upp er cross bea ms, followin g the ROO F/SLAT PLAN (page 32). 7. Pos ition th e slats so th ey ove rl ap the cross bea ms by 6” at both ends. Drill pilot holes , and fas ten th e slats with 21;2 ” deck screws.
step G: Cut the Seat Supports Eac h sea t has three hori zo ntal sea t supports and three vertical sea t bac k supports, plus two verti cal support space rs (see SEAT SECTION , page 33, and SEAT FRAMI N G PLAN , page 32). T he sets of supports and space rs are identi ca l, so once yo u mark and cut each type , you ca n use it as a pa tte rn to mark the dupli ca te pieces. I. C ut one horizontal seat support and one vertical seat bac k support, following the SEAT SECTION. TIP: Cut each of the supports from a different 8-ft. 2 x 6, and save all of the cutoffs for seat slats. Install the upper beams and slats using the same procedure Also cut a vertical support spacer from a full 2 x 6. for securing the lower beams and slats.
Arbor Hetreat • 37
2. Test-fit the pieces on the arbor posts. Make any SEAT SECTlON. Mark the bottom edges of the
necessary adjustments or re-c uts so all of the angles aprons for cutting. Bevel the bottom edges at 7°.
fit properl y, as shown in the SEAT SECTION. Fasten the aprons to the ends of the seat supports
3. Use the cut pieces to mark the remaining sup- with 2 Y.z" deck screws.
ports, and then make the cuts. For th e two center
support assembl ies, cut the rear end of the horizontal Step I: Install the Seat Slats &
seat support so it will be flush with th e rear edge of Center Supports
the verti cal support.
1. Measure between the inner posts to determine
the length of the seat slats. Using this dimension cut
step H: Install the outer Seat eight slats to length for each side .
Supports & Aprons 2. Position a slat on top of the horizontal seat sup-
I. On each side of the structure, measure up from ports so its front edge overhangs the supports by
the ground and mark the inner posts at 16 1;2" and the about 1". Fasten the slat to the supports with pairs of
outer posts at 13". These marks represent the top 3" dec k screws.
edges of the horizontal seat supports. 3. Install the next three slats on each side, leaving
2. Position the horizontal seat supports on the a 3;16" gap between th e slats. Rip the final seat slat to
marks so their back ends are flush with the outsides fit the remaining space.
of th e outer posts. Fasten the supports to the posts 4. Install the vertical back seat slats from the top
with pairs of 1/4" x 3" lag screws driven through coun- down. Position the top slat so its highest edge is flush
terbored pilot holes. with, or just below, the tops of the vertical seat sup-
3. Position each vertica l seat back support and ports. Gap the remaining slats by 3/16".
spacer as shown in the SEAT SECTION, and mark 5. Using 2 1;2" deck screws, assemble the two cen-
the location of the support spacer onto the post. ter seat supports so they match the outer supports.
Fasten the spacer to the post with 3" deck screws Install th e center supports at the midpoints of the
driven through pilot hol es. Then, fasten the vert ica l slats by screwing through the slats and into the sup-
seat back support to the spacer and horizonta l seat ports, using 3" deck screws.
support with 21;2" deck screws; use three or four
screws at each end. step J: Build the Arched
4. Measure between the outside fac es of th e side
seat supports, and then cut the I x 8 aprons to length
Lattice Screens
at those dimensions. 1. Mark th e layout of the horizontal latt ice
5. Bevel the top edge of the aprons at 7°. Position pieces onto the posts, fo ll owing th e SCREEN
them against the seat supports, as shown in the LAYOUT, on page 33; mark along one post, thenMark the end cuts on the seat supports using a speed Fasten the horizontal seat supports to the posts with lag square, or you can use a protractor to find the angles (also screws. Attach the vertical seat back supports with deck see page 39). screws.
38 • GAZEBO&ARBORPHOJECTS
use a level to transfer the marks to the other post. step K: Build the Back Lattice
2. Cut 20 2 x 2 lattice slats to length at 3 1".
Screens
Position the slats on the layout so they overhang the
posts by I 1c2" at both ends. Fasten the slats to the posts 1. Mark the layout for th e back lattice slats onto the
with 2 112" deck screws driven through pilot holes. outer posts , following th e SCREEN LAYOUT.
3. To make the arches, make a cardboard tem- 2. Cut the eight 2 x 2 back lattice slats to length at
plate, following the ARCH DETAIL on page 33. 75". This gives you 1 1c2" overhang at eac h e nd.
3. Position the slats on the ir layout marks so they
Using the template, trace one arch onto a 2 x 8. Cut
overhang the posts by 11;2" at both ends. Drill pilot
out the arch with a jigsaw or bandsaw. Test-fit the
holes , and fasten the slats to th e posts with 2 112" deck
arch be tween the post pairs, and make any necessary
screws. See SIDE ELEVATION.
adjustments for a good fit. Cut the remaining arches.
Sand the cut edges smooth.
4. Position each arch on its layout marks so its
outside edges are flush with the outside faces of the
posts. At eac h e nd of th e arch, drill an angled pilot
hole upward through the bottom of the arch and into
the post. Fasten the arch with 2 112" deck screws.
5. On th e top and bottom horizontal slats, make a
mark 7" in from eac h post. These represe nt th e out-
side edges of the vertical lattice slats.
6. Cut the eight vertical slats to a rough length of
54". Mark th e top ends of the slats to match the
arches by holding eac h slat on its reference marks.
Use a compass to transfer the arch CUlve to the end
of th e slat. Cut the cUlved e nds and test-fit th e slats.
7. Hold each vertical slat in place against the arch
and mark the bottom end for length, so it will be
flush with th e bottom edge of the lowest horizontal
slat. Cut the vertical slats to length .
8. Install the vertical slats with 3" deck screws
driven down through the arches and 2 112" deck Keeping the compass straight, follow the arch's curve to
screws driven through th e lowest horizonta l slats. mark the end of the vertical slat.Install the center support so it’s centered along the length Fasten the back slats to the outer posts with 21//’ deck of the seat slats. screws.
Arbor Retreat • 39I Lattice Gazebo garden retreat surrounded by latti ce is a and provi de ~ s ua l contras t to th e grid patte rn of th e
A study in dyn ami c views, both inside and
out. T he sun 's move me nt fill s th e inte rior
with ever-chan ging li ght p atterns made even more
latti ce. In daylight, the shadowed interi or offe rs a
pleasa nt retrea t for people as well as sun- shy plants.
At night, when lighted from inside, th e gazebo glows
compelling by vine s twisting along th e wa ll s and like a paper lantern.
roof. And with onl y parti a l se parati on from th e e le- The simple, symm etri cal des ign of thi s projec t
ments, th e sense of enclos ure is bl ended with th e makes it easy to alter its size. As shown in th e pl ans,
sounds and smell s of th e outdoors. th e gaze bo is big e nough fo r a pat io table and c hairs.
BOlTowing elements from Japanese teahouses To create a smaller vers ion, first resize the fo otprint.
and other As ian so urces, th e Latti ce Gaze bo fea tured Decide how tall you want th e structure, being mind-
on page 4 3 has a ge ntl y sloping rooflin e th at brings ful of proper proporti ons. From th ere, th e pieces ca n
li ghtness to its broad, sweeping form. Rounded open- be measured and cut to fit.
in gs give th e wa ll s an un co mm on decorati ve qu ality40 • GAZEBO&A RBO RPH OJECTS
Inspired by these and other fanciful garden structures, our Lattice Gazebo (page 43) is as fun to use as it is to look at.
Lattice Gazebo • 41
I Material List
Description
(No. finished pieces) Qua ntity/Size Material
Posts & Foundation
Posts (4) 4 @ field measure 4x4
Concrete Field measure 3.000 PSI concrete
compactable gravel Field measure
Walls
TOp and bottom rails 15@10' 2x4
(14 full-length,
4 door-wall bottom rails)
Window headers (6) 23 @ 10' 2x4
and sills (6), door headers (2),
and jambs (16)
Window and 3@ 10' 1 x 12
door brackets (14) 1 @ 6'
Lattice Field measure 3/4"
(total panel thickness)
manufactured wood lattice
Roof
Truss top chord (4) 4@ 12' 2 x 12
Truss bottom chord (8) 8@ 8' 2x6
Truss strut (4) 1 @ 10' 2x4
Hub(1) 1 @ 51" 4x4
Support joists (4 outer, 4 inner) 4@ 14' 2x4
4@ 10'
Slat braces (4) 1 @ 8' 2x4
1 @ 3'
Slats Field measure 2x2
Hardware & Fasteners
3" galvanized wood screws
15/8" galvanized wood screws
11/2" galvanized wood screws
3/8" X 6" galvanized carriage bolts 16, with washers and nuts
1/4" x 7" galvanized lag screws 4, with washers
1/4" x 6" galvanized lag screws 12, with washers
21/2" deck screws
Note: Truss assembly consists of 2 bottom chords, 1 top chord, and 1 strut.42 • GAZE BO& A RBORPHOJ ECT S
Lattice Gazebo • 43
4X4 ROOF HUB
III 2X2 ROOF SLATS
2X41NTERMEDIATESLAT BRACE
.-/
~4JDISTW/NDTC HEDENDS~ ~ f= =f:::f= =f:::f= ~ ~~, :b f::: f::: f::: f::: f::: f::: f= f= f= - =f= =f= f= f= - ~ TOP CHORD
ef=f::: f::: f::: f:::
-
f= f= f= =f::: -
=~ - - -
f= f= 2X4 DOUBLE TOP RAIL
= = S; f::: f:::
~ f=f= f=f= f=f=
2X4 DOUBLE DOOR HEADER
f1-
t- f= - lX12BRACKET
V :\ ~
-
Il= f:::
ef= f= f=
f:::
-
f::: f::: ~ f:::
z f= f= -
~ I Lattice
~ f::: f::: f:::
SEE ENLARGED Gazebo
f= f= f= f= f=
f= f= ~
BRACKET DETAIL
f::: f::: Front Elevation
ef=f= f=f= f=f=
- - -
f= f= ~
3/4" LATIlCE
f= f=
ef=f::: f=f::: f:::f= V::=
- - - 2X4 DOUBLE DOOR JAMB
~V
l- E-- 4X4 POST
~
;;;
lX4 DOUBLEBOlTOM RAIL
f= - f= f= f= f= -
~
-
f= f= f= f= f=
~ f::: f::: f::: f::: f::: fr
4X4 ROOF HUB
,1,[ 2X2 ROOF SLATS
I Side
Lattice Gazebo
ElevationI Lattice Gazebo Window Bracket/ DoorArch ~ ,.4
.,. -,
=f=f:::
=f=
=f= -
= f=f::: f:::f= =Ff::: =f=f::: f=f:::
= f= f= =f= -==b I;::
= r- r- =r- r- r---
- - -
f= f= 'r<
f::: f:::
f= f= -'-T
~-, TOP CHORD
2X4 DOUBLE TOP RAIL
I'---
-L
=f::: -
= - - - .£ S; - f= r- 2X4 DOUBLEWIN DOW HEADER
=f= =
3/4' LATTICE
X f::: f::: 1X12 BRACKET
=f= =
V ~z
f= f= -'-
~ DOUBLE
........ -L
=f::: -
= - I-
f= f=
=f= =
2X4HEADER
f::: f:::
~ OOUBLE
-, =f= -
= SEE EN LARGED
BRACKET DETAIL - - f= f= T
=f::: = f= f=
=f= =
" 2X4JAMB
~ lXll
= ~ ~~
2X4 DOUBLE WINDOW SILL
p- I-
V
BRACKET
-, =f= -
7 '--
~ LArnCE
f= f= ~ _____ 2X4DOUBLEWINDOW JAMB
,-
3/4' LATTICE
=f::: = f= k-
f=
=f::: = f::: f::: f::: f::: f::: ;;; I-
V
~ 4X4POST
=f= = f= f= =f= =f= f= f::: f::: lX4 DOUBLE BOTTOM RAIL
=f= = f= f= =f= =f= f= f= f= ,J.<
-L
= -
= -
= = - - -
f= 1/
f:::44 • GA ZE BO&ARBORPHOJECTS
L:::::,.I Lattice Gazebo / ”- ) Top/Bottom Rails Detail ~ 45· BOTH ENDS
'"z
~
~
0
"
0
D
Z
'"
't
"
r--- 3/4 lATIiCE
" "
~
.
~
12
g
.~
~
Vr
~
k
2X4 WINDOW I DOOR JAMBS
lX4 BOnOM RAILS
CONCRETE PIER
D
I"
~
"'"'" ~:4 CORNER PlDST
~
0
~ '"
'"
~
(
(f--/ "-
2'·10' 4'-4' DOOR OPENING 2'·10'
I Lattic
Plan
eGazebo
10'-0'
45° BOTH
ENDS
4X4 ROOF HUB
I Lattice Gazebo
Framing Elevation
2X6 BOITOM CHORD
2X4WINOOWI
DOORJAMBS
2-Xl2 ROOF TRUSS TOP CHORD
3/4' LATTICE· ~
2X4 DOUBLE TOP RAil
SANOWICH BETWEEN
JAMBS AND RAILS 2X4 DOUBLE HEADER
2X4 BOTIOM RAILS
EQUAL 4'-4' EQUAL
4X4POST
~ J
l>. 2X4 DOUBLE Slll@WINDOW
2X4 DOUBLE JAMB
~
4X4 POST
2X4 DOUBLE BOTIOM RAILI Corner Lattice Gazebo Detail (CONTINUOUS@WINOOWSIDES) CONCRETE FOUNDAnON TO BELOW FROST LEVEL ~ CORNER POST EXTENDED BELOW GRADE fOR GAZEBO LATERAL SUPPORT
Lattice Gazebo • 45
2X2 ROOF SLATS
@S' OOCENTER
~
i
2X41NTERMEDIATE
SLATBRACE / .2'" NH~N X OSTSW/ OK EDE OS
ROOF TRUSS
~ "- I ~ I Lattice Gazebo
~ ~ Slat Section
~
" /
/
# 2X2 ROOF SLATS
~ ~ @8" ONCENTER
W/4S' MITEREDENDS
~" -0
~
~
2X4JOISTW/
NOTCHED ENDS
~
V~ ~~
V V ~~ .@
~ ~
V
~~
V ;;
c
;;
§l
V- V ~
5z
V ''"" 2X41NTERMEDIATt
~ ~~
SLAT BRACE@
~
i>
"S Sis MIDSPAN OF SLATS
V
j/
~
": ;:;
~ ~~
V- IV
1/
1/
I" ~"",1- II” ~ ~ I~ ~ k::? ~ I Lattice Gazebo ~ ~ Truss TOp Chord Template ~ I Lattice Gazebo 2X12
CURVED TOP
Roof Plan
TOPOFWAlL
6'·9'
I Lattice Gazebo 4X4 ROOF HUB
Roof Truss Tem plate 2X12TOP(HORD
2X4sTRUT
7' LAG SCREW
ATIACHTRUSS TO ROOF HUB
WI 6' lAG SCREWS s
(2) 2X6 sonOM CHORD
(ONE ON EACH SIDE OF TOP CHORD)
6' lONG CARRIAGE BOLTSW/WASHER
45" BEVEl TO FIT HUB CONNECTION
6'·9'
46 • GAZE BO &A RBORPHOJ ECTSI How to Build the Lattice Gazebo Step A: Install the Posts T he fo ur 4 x 4 posts are buried in co ncrete; see page 220 fo r a detailed procedure. T he depth and di ame- ter of th e post and surrounding co ncrete pi er must meet th e requirements of th e loca l building code and exte nd be low th e frost line (as a minimum , th e posts should be buried 30” deep). Treat th e bottom e nds of th e pos ts fo r rot resistance before setting them. I. Layout th e four post loca ti ons onto th e ground, following th e PLAN drawing, on page 45. Dig the pos t holes and add a 6” layer of grave l to eac h for drainage . 2. Set up maso n’s lines to layo ut th e prec ise post loca ti ons, following th e PLAN drawin g. Set th e posts in th e holes and secure th em with cross bracin g so th ey are perfec tl y plumb and turn ed at 45° to th e sq uare layout. M easure th e di agonal between posts to chec k for square ness: th e layo ut is perfectl y square when th e di agonal measurements are equal. 3. Pour th e co ncrete and let it dly co mpl etely. 4. Measure up from th e ground and mark one of Use mason’s lines to set up the square post layout and to the pos ts at 108”. Use a mason’s string and a line offset the posts at 45°. level to transfer th at he ight mark to th e oth er three pos ts, then cut th e posts to he ight (see C utting Lumber Posts, on page 34). C ut ca refull y so th e pos t tops are Rat and level.
step B: Build the outer Wall Frames In th is step , yo u complete th e outer layer of th e 2 x 4 wa ll framing. The main wa ll stru ctures are made of 2 x 4 frame pieces sa ndwiched over lattice panels, as shown in th e C ORNE R DETAIL (page 45 ). Beca use latt ice varies in thi ckness, test-fit so me sc rap 2 x 4 frame pieces and lattice to determine how th e assem- bl y will fit again st th e posts . ]. C ut th e four 2 x 4 bottom rails to fit betwee n th e posts along the sides a nd rea r of th e gaze bo; cut th e ends at 4 5° to fit Rush against th e pos t faces . You will c ut and insta ll the front wa ll , bottom rails in step 6. See TO P/BOTTOM RAILS DETA I L on page 45. 2. Position th e bottom rails aga inst th e posts at the desired height above the gro und , and faste n th em to th e pos ts with 3” wood screws. 3. C ut th e top rail s to fit betwee n th e posts on all fo ur sides of th e gazebo. Install th e rails so their top Install the bottom rail at the desired height. Most likely it will sit edges are Ru sh with th e to ps of the pos ts. close to, if not touching, the ground .
Lattice Gazebo • 47
4. Mark the window and door openings onto the onto the 2 x 4 wall framing, as shown in the WIN-
rails, following the PLAN drawing. All of the open- DOW BRACKET/ DOOR ARCH drawings.
ings are centered on the walls and span 52" . 4. Position the brackets at the corners of the win-
5. Cut the 2 x 4 window jambs to fit snugly dow and door openings: Each V\~ndow gets four brack-
between the top and bottom rails. Fasten them to the ets, while the door gets two at the top of the opening.
rails on the layout marks. For each window, cut a 2 x 4 Fasten the brackets to the frames with 15;8" wood
header and a 2 x 4 sill to fit between the jambs. Install screws. Drive the screws from inside the gazebo, so
them at the desired height to create a square opening. the inner wall framing will hide the screw heads.
6. To frame the door opening, cut two jambs to
reach from the top rail to the bottom of the bottom
rail position. Cut two 2 x 4 bottom rails (left from
step D: Install the Lattice &
step # I ) to span from the posts to the inside edges of
Inner Wall Frames
the jambs, as shown in the FRAMING ELEVATION You can install the lattice in any configuration you
(page 45). Also cut a 2 x 4 door header to length at like, using square- or diamond-patterned panels.
52". Assemble the door opening, as shown in the I. Working outward from the posts, cut the lat-
FRAMING ELEVATION, so the top of the opening tic e panel for each framed section (see page 208
is 80" from th e ground. for tips on cutting wood lattice). Overlap the 2 x 4
wall framing by at least 3" along the rails and
step c: Add the Window & around the window and door openings; overlap
Door Brackets about I lI2" along the jambs above and below the
I. Make a cardboard template for marking the openings. For best appearance, use a clean factory
bracket profiles, following the WINDOW BRACK- edge where the lattice meets the posts . You can
ETiDOORARCH drawing, on page 44. also bevel those edges so you don 't see the end
2. Use the template to mark 14 brackets onto grain of the lattice slats.
I x I2s, then cut the pieces with a jigsaw or bandsaw, 2. Fasten the lattice to the framing with 11;:2"
and sand the cuts smooth. wood screws- drive them through pilot holes to pre-
3. Draw reference lines 2" in from the angled vent splitting. Use mason 's string or layout marks to
edges of each bracket; this designates the overlap help keep the lattice panels aligned with one another.
Mark thebracket radius with a 26”-long string or board, pivoting from a centerpoint.
48 • GA ZE BO& A RBORPHOJ ECTS
3. C ut and install the inner wa ll frames, foll owingthe sa me bas ic procedure used in Step B to insta ll the outer frames. Bevel the ends of th e ra ils where th ey meet th e posts; if necessaty, clip the ra il end s so th ey fi t together, as shown in th e CO RNE R D ETA I L. Fas te n th e inner framing parts togeth er at th e co rn er joints, as you did with the o uter frames, and th en fasten the inner and oute r fra ming toge th er wit h 3” wood sc rews .
Step E: Build the Roof Trusses I. Selec t a straight, 12-ft. 2 x 12 to use as the pat- tern for the top chords. C heck th e board for crowning, and mark the top edge (see page 60). Draw the outline of th e c hord onto th e board, foll owi ng th e T RUSS TO P C HO RD T EM PLAT E (page 46). Make th e cuts, and th en sa nd th e c urved edges smoo th . 2. Us in g th e cut board as a pattern , trace th e out- line onto a second 2 x 12 and make th e cuts. For eac h of the two chords, cut two 2 x 6 bottom chords and one 2 x 4 strut, foll owing th e ROOF TRU SS TEM PLATE, on page 46 . 3. Asse mbl e the trusses as shown in the TEM- If desired, bevel-cut the edges of lattice that meet the posts, PLATE: Sandwic h two bottom chord s ove r eac h top using a circular saw set at 45 °. chord and strut and fas ten at eac h end with two 3;8” x 6” ca rri age bolts. Fasten the strut to t he top chord with a 1/4” x 7” lag sc rew dri ve n at an angle through a co unterbored pilot hole. 4. C ut th e 4 x 4 roof hub to length at 51 ”. If des ired, shape th e end s to a point with four equal bevel c uts (see page 106). Test-fit th e tru sses and hub on the gaze bo. The outside ends of the bottom chords should be aligned with th e outside edges of the posts. Ma ke any adjustm ents necessary for a good fi t. 5. Disasse mbl e one of the trusses and use the parts as pattern s to mark th e remain ing tru ss pieces. C ut th e parts and assembl e th e remaining trusses.
step F: Complete the Roof Frame I . Position two opposing trusses on th e pos ts with th e ir struts ce ntered on th e hub. T he hub should extend 6” be low th e bottom c hord s. Drill pilot holes into the strut. Fas ten three 1/4” x 6” lag sc rews th ro ugh eac h strut and into th e hub (see ROOF T RUSS TEM PLAT E). Offset th e screws on oppos- ing sides so th ey don’t run into one another. Also fas ten th ro ugh the top chords into th e hub with a lag sc rew driven at an angle through a co unterbored Bend a long piece of trim or other flexible board against nails to pil ot hole. make the top chord arch.
Lattice Gazebo • 49
2. Install the two remaining trusses. step G: Install the Roof Slats
3. Mark the top edges of the roof top chords at 8"
and 40" in from their outside ends- these marks rep- I. Mark the layout of the roof slats onto the
resent the outside faces of the 2 x 4 support joists; top edges of the truss chords and s lat braces ,
see the ROOF PLAN and SLAT SECTION on paoe using 8" on-center spac ing (or different spac ing,
46. If you prefer slat spac ing different than 8" on b as des ired); see ROOF PLAN. Also mark the cen-
center, adjust the positions of the joists as desired. ters of the chords, to facilitate measurinob for the
4. Cut the 2 x 4 joists to span between the cen- slats.
ters of the chords at the marks. M iter and notch the 2. Cut 2 x 2 slats to span from the centers of the
ends of the joists, as shown in the SLAT SECTION . chords to the side faces of the slat braces.
5. Install the joists on the chords with 2 1;2" NOTE: Compound miter the chord ends of the
deck screws. slats. Fasten the slats with 21/2" deck screws
6. Cut the four 2 x 4 slat braces to fit between the driven through pilot holes. The tops of the slats
joists at their cen terpoints. Fasten the braces should be flush with the tops of the braces.
between the joists wit h screws. 3. Continue installing slats up to the roof peak,
mitering the ends so they meet at the centers of the
truss chords.
If desired, countersink
the lag screws into the
truss struts to hide
the screw heads.50 • GA ZE BO& A RBORPHOJ ECTS
Fasten the slats to
the truss, using 21;2"
deck screws driven
through pilot holes.~ Tip A compound miter saw cuts miters and bevels at the same time, creating slat ends that meet at the centers of the truss chords.
Lattice Gazebo • 51I Classical Pergola T all and stately, the columned pergola is per- The columns used here are made of structural fiber- haps th e grandest of ga rde n struc tures. Its glass designed for outdoor use. They even adhere to minim a l design defines a n a rea without th e ancie nt practi ce of tapering th e top ~ of the enc losing it and makes it easy to place anywhere- shaft (see The T imeless Column, on page 59). from out in th e open yard to ri ght up agai nst yo ur Structural fiberglass columns, like the ones used hou se. Vines a nd flowers c linging to th e stout in this project, are avai lable from arc hitec tura l prod- framework create an eye-catching statement of ucts dealers (see Reso urces, page 236) . You can order strength and beauty. them over the phone and have them shipped to your In our selected project on page 54, Tuscan-style door. T his type of column is weat her-resistant, but co lumn s supporting shaped beams mimic the co l- most manufacturers recommend painting them for umn-and-entablat ure co nstruction used throughout appearance and longevity. \tVhatever co lumns yo u classical architecture. Painting the columns white or use, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions add ing faux marblin g e nhan ces th e c lass ica l styling. for all installation and maintenance.
52 • GAZEBO&ARBORPHOJECTS
Three variations on the pergola theme present different ideas for using and decorating our Classical pergola (page 54) : built-in seating and a stone floor (opposite page) make this pergola both a place for rest and a beautiful transition between garden areas; an extra layer of overhead slats (top) provides the right amount of shade for this pools ide pergola; also poolside (bottom), this pergola clearly separates the bar and entertaining space from the surrounding areas without creating any sense of a barrier.
Classical Pergola • 53I Material List Description (No. finished pieces) Quantity/Size Material Columns 6 @ 8”-dia . x 8’ Structural fiberglass column Concrete Piers Concrete tube forms 6-field measure for length 16”-diameter cardboard forms Gravel Field measure Compactable gravel Concrete Field measure 3,000 PSI concrete Beams Main beams (4) 4 @ 16’ 2x 8 Cross beams (7) 7 @ 8’ 2x6 Blocks (6) 1 @ 50” 4 x 4 pressure-treated Hardware & Fasteners 112 ” x 6” J-bolts 6 Threaded rod for W ‘-dia. x 4’ corrosion- concrete slab resistant threaded rod foundation only Concrete anchoring adhesive- Simpson Acrylic-Tie® concrete patio installation only adhesive, or similar approved product Construction adhesive or waterproof wood glue 16d galvanized common nails W ’ -diameter corrosion-resistant 6 @ 99” threaded metal rod W ’ corrosion-resistant coupler nuts 6 Corrosion-resistant bearing 6 each Simpson BP1 / 2-3 or plates and nuts similar approved bearing plate. Recommended nut for 112 ” threaded rod Corrosion-resistant masonry screws 2W ’ deck screws Paintable caulk
54 • GAZE BO& A RBORPHOJ EC TS
16'-0"r 2X6 CROSS BEAM
r
2X8 MAIN BEAM
8" ROUND TAPERED
STRUCTURAL FI8ERGLASS
COLUMN
16" DIACONCRETE
PIER (2' ABOVE GRADE)
l
)\
6'-0"
)\
l 6'-0"
l
)\I Classical pergola Front Elevation 8’-0”
l l
2X6 CROSS BEAM, NOTCHED
2X8 MAIN BEAM
8' 4X4 BLOCK
8' ROUND TAPERED
STRUCTURAL FIBERGLASS
COLUMN
I Classical Pergola
Side Elevation
16" DIA. CONCRETE
PIER (2' ABOVE GRADE)
C lassica l Pergola • 55
6'-0" 6'-0'
16' DIA.CONCRETE
PIER (2' ABOVE GRADE)
8" ROUND TAPERED
STRUCTURAL FIBERGLASS
COLUMN, INSTALL PER
MANUFACTURER'S
RECOMMENDATIONS
I Classical Pergola
Foundation Plan
II II II II II II
~
~
2X8 MAIN BEAMS .;,
ff mw~am.-
4X4 BLOCK (WI HARDWARE)
S
'"
I II II II II II II
I Classical Pergola
Framing Plan56 • GA ZE BO&ARBORPHOJ ECTS
1 112"TYP
EQUAL 1'-10 1/2" 1'-101/2" --1lIL 1'-10 1/2" .Iv 1'-10 1/2" 1'-101/2" IN 1'-10 1/2" EQUAL, 1/ IN —1lIL IN —1lIL ~
'0 '0 '0 'r 11 '0 '0
~
ro
r- ~ r- ~ r- ~
II
.... II
i"'""" -
3L II
i"'"""
II
.... II
I'..--
Ir 4X4 BLOCK (WI HARDWARE)
2X6 CROSS B
EAM
V- 2X8MAINB EAMS
r- ~
II II
~
II
~
II
A ,/ II
~ COLUMNC APITAL
II
BELOW
.... ~ .... ..... .... .....
~
I Classical Pergola
Roof Framing Plan
2X6 CROSS BEAM
1"X1 " GRID SHOWN
2 2
IL
2X8 MAIN BEAM2X6 CROSS BEAMS BEARING PLATE (SIMPSON BP1/2-J) 2X8 MAIN BEAMS ’+-+- 8” LONG 4X4 BLOCK FIBERGLASS COLUMN I Classical pergola 1/2” DIA.ALL-THREAD Beam End Templates (THREADED ROD)
I Classical pergola
Column Connection
Classica l Pergola • 57I How to Build the Classical pergola If you’re building on poured concre te piers in your Alternative: Existing Concrete yard, complete Step A, below. To build on an existing concrete patio slab, skip ahead to Alternative: Slab or Pier Foundation Concrete Slab Foundation. NOTE: Follow the manufacturer’s specifications and instructions for installing the anchor rods step A: Pour the Concrete in this step. I. On the patio surface, mark the layout for col- Piers umn ce nters; follow the FOUNDATION PLAN. l. See pages 212 to 21S for detailed in structions The centers must be at least 6” from any edge of the on laying out and pouring concrete piers using card- slab. This ensures the column base (plinth) doesn’t board forms. Set up batter boards and mason’s lines hang over the edge of the slab and gives you a little to layout the pergola columns following the FOUN- bit of wiggle room for adjustments. DATION PLAN on page 56. 2. At each column centerpoint, drill a 5;8” -diameter 2. Dig the six hol es for the co ncrete forms. Add a hole straight down into the co ncrete, using a hammer layer of gravel, then set and brace th e forms. Make drill and 5;8” masolllY bit. Make the hole at least sure the pier depth and gravel layer meet the require- 4 IJ4” deep. ments of the local building code. For this project, the 3. Spray out the holes to remove a ll dust and piers are 16” in diameter and extend at least 2” above debris, using an air compressor with a trigger-type the ground. You may have to adjust the height of nozzle. Make sure the air is completely oil-free. If some piers so that all of them are in the same level necessalY, use a c lea n nylon brush to dislodge any plane; measure against your level mason’s lines to loose material, then sp ray again with compressed air compensate for any unevenness of the ground. to completely remove all dust. 3. Pour the concrete for each form, and set a 4. Cut six pieces of !.l”-d iameter corrosion-resist- 1;2” X 6” J-bolt in the cen ter of th e wet concre te. ant threaded rod to length at 8” . Make sure the rods Make sure the bolt is perfectly plumb and extends are clean and oi l-free. ]3/4” to 2” above the surface of the concrete. S. Fill eac h anc hor hole 1;2 to ~ full with co ncrete 4. Fo llowing th e concrete manufacturer’s instruc- anchor adhesive (see Resources, page 236) . F ill the tions, finish the tops of the piers to create a smooth , hole starting from th e bottom and working up to pre- attractive surface. When painted, the piers become ve nt a ir pockets. Keep the nozzle of the ad hes ive dis- part of the finished project. penser above th e adhesive as the hole fills. 6. Insert a rod into each hole, turning th e rod slowly until it contacts the bottom of the hole. Position the rod plumb. Leave th e rod undisturbed until th e adhesive has fully cured.
For existing found-
ations, clean the
anchor hole thoroughly,
and then secure th e
threaded rod with
concrete anchor
adhesive.As the concrete sets, finish the tops of the piers using a Drill a 5111”-diameter hole straight concrete float. down into the concrete; use a hammer drill and 5/8” masonry bit.
58 • GAZEBO&ARBORPHOJECTS
FYI ~ The Timeless Column
Capita l
The ancient Greeks and Romans used ~ :
columns everywhere, and they designed them to :=
exact specifications. A column just wasn't
respectable if it didn't have the right shape and
proportion . Many of those same rules are still
followed today.
According to the ancients, a good column must
have a tapered shaft. This is because a perfectl y
straight shaft appears to be smaller in the cente r,
thus conveying a sense of weakness (not a pop ular
trait among Romans) Some columns are straig ht
along the lowest 1/3 of the shaft and taper inward
along the top 4'3; others slightly bulge out in the
V Shaft
center (called entasis). /
All but the earliest forms of columns had a bas e
and a capital, the style of which largely
determined the "order" or type of column it wa s.
Remember art history class? The three Greek
orders are Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian . The Rom an
orders are Tuscan and Composite. Doric and
Tuscan have simply ornamented capitals, while
Ionic are the ones with the scrolls. Corinthian and
Composite follow an anything-goes style and
might be decorated with leaves, scrolls, cheru bs,
goat heads ... you name it
Today, column suppliers offer a variety of capit als
and bases. Although it usually costs extra, you can
swap out the standard capital or base with one Base ( )
that better suits your style. I IUse a nylon brush to dislodge Fill the anchor hole 1/2 to 4’3 full Insert a rod into the hole, turning loose material. with co ncrete anchor adh esive. th e rod slowly un til it contacts th e bottom of the hole.
C lassica l Pergola • 59
step B: cut & Shape the 3. Coat the ends of the blocks and the insides
Beams of the holes with wood preservative, following the
manufacturer's instructions. The blocks are the
1. Cut the four main beams to length at 192".
main structural connecting points for the pergola,
Cut the seven cross beams to length at 96".
and the preselvative helps prevent rot from moisture
2. Check all of the beams for crowning- a slight
over the years.
arching shape that's apparent when the board is set
on edge. Hold each board flat and sight along its nar- 4. Make a mark 20" in from the end of each main
row edges. If the board arches, mark the top (convex) beam. These marks represent the outside ends of th e
side of the arch. This is the crowned edge and should blocks.
always be installed facing up. 5. Construct the main beam assemblies byapply-
3. Make cardboard patterns for shaping the ends ing construction adhesive or waterproof wood glue
of the main beams and cross beams; follow the to the side faces of the blocks and sandwiching the
BEAM END TEMPLATES on page 57. Use the pat- beams over the blocks. Make sure the blocks are
terns to mark the shapes onto the beam ends. flush with the bottoms of the beams and the ir ends
4. Shape the beam ends using a jigsaw, coping are on the reference marks. The holes are face up
saw, or bandsaw, and then sand the cuts smooth. (vertical ). Clamp the assembly, and then fasten the
beams to the blocks with 16d common nails. Drive
Step c: Construct the Main four nails on each side, making sure to avoid the cen-
Beam Assemblies ter hole in the blocks. Let the glue dry completely.
1. Cut six 4 x 4 blocks at 8". 6. Mark the cross beam layout on to th e top edges
2. Lay each block flat, and drill a 9/16"-diameter of main beams, following the ROOF FRAMING
hole through the center of one side. PLAN on page 57.
Sight along bothnarrow edges of the beams. If a beam is arched, mark the beam on the convex side of the arch.
60 • GAZEBO&ARBORPHOJECTS
Step D: prepare & Set the Columns You’ll need at least two helpers for this step and the following step. Once you set the co lumns for one side, continue to the next step to install th e main bea m. Then , repeat th e two steps for the othe r side of the pergo la. 1. Cut th e threaded rods to le ngt h at 99”. 2. Add a corrosion-resistan t coup ler nut to eac h J-bolt (threaded anc hor rod for patio installation ). 3. Lay th e columns down next to th eir res pective piers. Slip the base and capital over th e ends of the co lumn shafts; th ese will stay loose so you ca n sl ide the m out of the way until yo u secure th em in Step G. 4. Run the threaded rod through th e center of eac h column. 5. Tip up eac h col umn and ce nter it on top of a pier. C hec k the joint where the column meets the pier; it sho uld make even contact all the way around the column. If necessary, use a rasp to shave th e end of the co lumn to ensure even contact. 6. While one person holds th e col umn out of the way, thread the rod into th e coupling nut. Adj ust th e Sandwich the blocks between the main beams, and fasten nut so the rod a nd J-bolt have eq ual penetration into the assemblies with glue and nails. the nut, and tighten the nut following the manufac- turer’s instructions. Temporaril y brace th e column if necessalY, or have a helper hold it upright. Repeat ste ps 4- 6 to set the remaining two co lumns.
Step E: Set the Main Beams I. Us ing step ladders se t up next to th e columns, place one of the main beams onto the columns, in serting the rod ends through th e blocks. C heck for even contact of the beam on all three co lumns. If necessa ry; yo u ca n trim a column : C ut from th e bot- tom end only, usi ng a sharp hand saw. NOTE: If there’s a slight gap above the center column due to a crowning beam, it will most likely be gone once the beam is anchored. 2. Add bea ring pl ates and nuts to th e end of eac h thread ed rod, loosely threading th e nuts. 3. Working on one column at a time, make sure th e column shaft is ce ntered on th e pi er and is cen- tered under the beam block at th e top e nd. Place a 2-ft. level along the bottom, untapered section of the column shaft an d check the column for plumb. Hold th e co lumn plumb while a helper tightens th e nut on th e rod. Repeat to adj ust and sec ure th e remainin g column s. 4. Repeat the procedure to install th e columns Have one person lift up the column while another tightens the coupler nut to the J-bolt and threaded rod. and bea m on the other side of th e pergo la.
Classiea I Pergola • 61
Step F: Notch & Install the through th e sides of th e cross bea ms a nd into th e
Cross Beams main bea ms; dri ll one hole on eac h side , offsetting
the holes so t he sc rews wo n't hit eac h othe r. Fasten
I. Place each cross beam onto th e layout marks the cross beams with 2 \12" deck sc rews.
on top of the main beams so the cross beam over-
hangs eq uall y at both ends. Mark each edge where
the ma in bea m pieces meet the cross beam. This
Step G: Finish the Columns
e ns ures th e notches wi ll be acc urate for eac h cross 1. Fit eac h column base aga inst a pier. Sec ure the
beam. Number the cross beams so yo u ca n install base to the pier with corrosion-resistant maso nry
them in th e same order. On yo ur workbenc h, mark screws: First, drill pilot holes slightly larger than the
the notch es for cuttin g at 2 1;2" deep. screws through the base. Using a masolllY bit, drill pilot
2. To c ut the notches, yo u can save time by ho les in to the pier. Fasten th e base \~ri th the screws.
clampin g two beams together and c utting both at 2. Fit eac h capital against the m ain beam, drill
once. Using a circu lar saw or handsaw, first c ut th e pilot holes, and fasten the capital with deck sc rews.
outside edges of the notc hes. Next, make a series of 3. Ca ulk t he joints around th e capital and base
inte rior c uts at 1;8" intervals. Use a c hi se l to remove with high qua li ty, pai ntable ca ulk.
the waste and smooth th e sea ts of t he notches. 4. Paint the columns-and bea ms, if des ired-
3. Set th e c ross beams onto th e main bea ms using a prime r and paint recommended by th e
fo ll ow ing the marked layo ut. Drill angled pil ot holes column manufacture r.
Center the columnat both ends, then t ighten the nut over the bearing plate to secure the entire assem bly.
62 • GAZEBO & ARBOR PROJ EC TS
Set a circular saw to cut just above the notch seat; clean up the notch with a chisel.
After fastening the base and capital , caulk all of the joints to hide any gaps and create a watertight seal.
Classical Pergola • 63I Wood & Copper Arbor s a decorative focal point, this arbor has from rigid copper pipe that will develop a beautiful
A some unexpected features. With three
enclosed sides, its shape is perfect for a
corner niche. This arbor is also lovely as a garden
patina over time. Training vines along the slender
metal tubing creates a nice contrast of forms while
adding shade and privacy.
centerpiece: it makes for a solid anchor in a garden The interior space of the arbor offers plenty
plan that unfolds to the sides. of room for a lawn chair or a small bench. Or,
Copper accents appear in dramatic sunbursts instead of a private sitting area, you might devote
forming the back panel and in a slatted roof covering the space to displaying a sculpture or a group of
that fans out like an art deco awning. Both are made special plants.64 • GA ZE BO& A RBORPHOJ ECTS
Material List
Description (No. finished pieces) Quantity/Size Material Posts Posts (4) 4 @ field measure 4x4 Concrete Field measure 3,000 PSI concrete Gravel Field measure compactable gravel Back Panel Horizontal rails (2 top/bottom rails, 1 @8’ 2x4 2 center rails) 1 @8’ 2x2 Copper slats (10) 25 linear feet 1.-2” rigid copper pipe Side Panels (8 horizontal, 16 vertical) 8@8’ 2x 2 Roof Roof beams (4) 2@8’ 2x6 1 @ 12’ Copper slats (10) 51 linear feet 1” -dia. rigid copper pipe Hardware & Fasteners 10d galvanized casing nails 8d galvanized casing nails 6d galvanized finish nails 3” deck screws 6d siding nails
1
5 -7"
V /
/ /
11-0" 3
1
-r 11-011
1/ 1/ / /
/ / / /
"
" D DI Wood & Copper Arbor Post Plan
v-'",P05T
" D
"
Wood & Copper Arbor • 65
1/2" BEVEL @ POSTTOP
1" DIA.COP PER PIPE
2X6 ROOF BEAM“I” "" -n II / Fh ~
~ ""-
co
,,~ / f
N
~
" 2X4TOP RAIL
a
-" I
" \'
N
~ 1/2" DIA.COPPER PIPE
e;-
N ---
2X2 CENTE RRAIL
" II /'
---
'"' "
<:;>
2X2 CENTE RRAIL
i'-.
"
" \,
--- 2X2 VERTI CAL RAIL
II
1/2" DIA. COPPER PIPE
N
~
e;-
N
---
Ii
""-
N
~
~ 2X4 BOTTOM RAIL
a"" "" ""
I Wood & Copper Arbor
Front Elevation66 • GAZEBO&A RBO RPH OJECTS
,------ 1" DIA. COPPER PIPE
~ 1/2" BEVELAT
./ POSTTOPA A
I Wood & Copper Arbor
Side Elevation
Wood & Copper Arbor • 67
3'-0"
o o o
r
'------'\-\------ 112 DIA.COPPER PIPE
'---------'r\----- 2X4 BOnOM RAIL
2X2 BOnOM
~--- 2X2VERIWD.RAIL
RAIL
"---- CENTERLINE DIMENSIONS
4X4 POST
I Wood & Copper Arbor
Plan
3'-0"
11 1/2"I Wood & Copper Arbor Beam End Profile 2X2 CENTER RAIL
1/2" DIA. COPPER PIPE
1@2'-3"
2@2'-33/8"
I 2@2'-43/4"
,/
GRID = 1" X1"
11 /4" 81/2" 81/4" 81/4" 81/2" 11 /4"
3'-0"
I Wood & Copper Arbor
Back Panel Detail68 • GAZEBO&ARBORP HOJ ECTS
1'-2" f-2"
I Wood & Copper Arbor
Roof Framing Plan
~- 2X6 REAR ROOF BEAMS
' - - - - - - + \ - - - - - 2X4 TOP RAIL
r--- 2X2TOP RAIL
4X4POST
2X6 FRONT ROOF BEAMS
1'-0" 1'-0"
7'-7"
r---- POST BELOW
~- 2X6 ROOF BEAMS BELOWI Wood & Copper Arbor 1” DIA. COPPER PIPE Roof Plan ___- - 2X2 TOP RAIL BELOW
POST BELOW
\------4 ~~~~~;2X6 ROOF BEAMS BELOW
2 @4'-8" LONG
93/4" 2 @5'-0" LONG
2@5'-1"LONG
61 /2" 61 /2"
2@5'-3" LONG
2 @5'-4" LONG
Wood & Copper Arbor • 69I How to Build the Wood & Copper Arbor Step A: Install the Posts Then, holding the square in line with the hole’s cen- ter, position th e drill at th e presc ribed angle to com- Set the four posts in the ground with concrete. Treat plete the hole. Drill each hole so its shallow edge is the bottom ends of the posts for rot resistance before about 3/4” deep. setting them. (See page 220.) TIP: Use masking tape on the bit to gauge the I. Determine the total length of the posts: First hole depth. find out how deep the posts must be buried in the ground, according to the local building code. To that dimension add 92l;2” to find the total post length. Step C: Install the Back Panels 2. Cut the posts to length (see Cutting Lumber I. First cut th e Y2”-diameter copper slats to length, Posts, page 34). Bevel the top ends of each post at using a tubing cutter or hacksaw: Cut four pieces at 45 °, as shown in the FRONT ELEVATION on 28 3/4”; cut four pieces at 27 3;8”; and cut two pieces at page 66. 27” (see page 234 for help with cutting copper pipe). 3. Mark the post layout onto the ground; follow 2. Position the bottom rail on its layout marks, the POST PLAN on page 65. Dig the post holes and and drill angled pilot holes through the outside edges add a layer of gravel to eac h hole. Position and brace of the rail and into the posts. Fasten the rail with 1Od one post so its top end is 921;2” above the ground. casing nails. Slightly countersink the nail heads for 4. Position and brace the remaining posts, using a best appearance. Repeat to install th e upper center level to ensure all of the post tops are at the same rail ; use Sd casing nails. height. This compensates for unevenness in the 3. Set th e copper slats into th ei r respec tive holes ground and makes sure the structure itself will be on the bottom rail , th en fit th eir top ends into the level. Add or remove gravel in each post hole as lower center rail as you position the rail on its layout needed to adjust the post height before bracing. marks. Drill pilot hol es and fasten the lower center 5. Pour the concrete and let it dty completely. rail to th e posts with Sd casing nai Is. Repeat to install the upper slats and top rail. Step B: prepare the Back Panel Rails Step D: Build the Side Panels 1. Measure up 10 1;2” from th e ground and make a I. Mark th e layouts for th e 2 x 2 horizontal side mark on one of the posts. Using a level, transfer this rails on th e insides of the posts, making sure the side height mark to the other posts. You will use this refer- rails are aligned with the back panel rails. ence line to mark the layouts for the back and side 2. Measure between th e post centers to deter- panels. mine the exact length of each rail; see the PLAN 2. Mark the layout for the four horizontal rails on drawing on page 6S. Cut th e rails to length , beveling the inside faces of th e rea r posts; follow the FRONT the ends at IS O. ELEVATION. The bottom and top rails are 2 X 4s; 3. Position each rail on its layout marks and drill the two center rails are 2 x 2s. angled pilot hol es through the rail and into the posts; 3. Measure between the posts to find the exact drill one hole on each of the accessible sides of the length of each rail. Cut the rails to length , then rail. Fasten the rails with 6d finish nails. test-fit each one to make sure it fits snugly between 4. Mark th e layout for the 2 x 2 vertical rails onto the posts. the horizontal rails; follow the PLAN drawing. Cut 4. Mark th e slat hole layouts on the rails; follow the vertical rails to fit between the horizontal rails. the BACK PANEL DETAIL on page 6S. Fasten the rails with two 6d finish nails driven 5. Use a drill with a 9/16” bit and a speed square to through pilot holes at each joint. make the angled holes for the slats. (If you own an TIP: If the hammering is too jarring on the adjustable drill guide, yo u can use that instead of the horizontal rails, drill slightly larger pilot holes. square.) Start the hole, using just the tip of the bit.
70 • GAZEBO&ARBORPHOJECTS
Brace the first post at the proper height, then level over as Clamp the square to the workpiece so the 70° mark is you set and brace the remaining posts. aligned with the workpiece. The drill then follows the angle of the square’s base.
Insert the ends of
the copper slats into
the holes as you fit the
upper rails between
the posts.
Wood & Copper Arbor • 71Drill angled pilot holes to fasten the horizontal side rails, starting about 3/4” in from the ends of the rails.
Use a level to make sure the beams are in the same plane so that the roof slats will sit flush across the tops.
72 • GAZE BO& A RBORPHOJ ECT S
Step E: Install the Roof Beams 2. Cu t the te n I “-di ame ter coppe r roof slats to le nO”th usin O” the dime nsions shown in th e I. C ut the two front 2 X 6 roof bea ms to length at ROOF "" PLAN.’” 9 1”; c ut th e two rear 2 x 6 beams at 7 1”. 3. Mark pi lot holes for fasten ing the slats: Pos ition 2. To sha pe th e beam e nds , make a cardboard th e slats on th e tops of the roof beams. Measure temp late fo llowing th e BEAM END PRO FILE straiO” ht out from the rear-most roof bea m to make draw in g on page 68. Trace the pattern onto the ’” sure all of the slats overh a ng 3”. Using a perm a ne nt bea ms and make th e cuts with a jigsaw or bandsaw. marker, draw a dot on top of the slats at th e ce nte r- Sand th e c uts smooth. points, whe re the slats c ross th e inne r roof bea ms. 3. Measure dow n from th e tops of eac h post a nd 4. On yo ur wo rkbench , drill a pilot hole at eac h ma ke a mark at 3”. Position th e roof beams so th ei r m ark, drilling straight down , compl e tely through the top edges a re on th e 3” marks a nd they overhang th e pipe . Th e ho les a re slightl y large r tha n th e na ils yo u posts equ ally at both ends. Drill pilot ho les a nd fas- use to fas te n th e sla ts. te n the beams to th e posts with 3” deck sc rews. As TIP: It’s easier to start the holes if you punch you work , set a leve l across th e tops of the beams to them first with a center punch. make sure th ey a re all leve l with one anot he r. 5. Repos itio n th e slats o n th ei r layout an d faste n th e m to th e roof beams wi th 6d siding nail s. Step F: Cut & Install the NOTE: Select a nail that is flat on the underside Roof Slats of the head, so that it sits flush against the slats 1. Ma rk th e roof slat layout o nto th e top edges for minimal visibility. of th e outer roof beams; fo ll ow the ROOF PLAN on page 69 .
Nail the roof slats carefully,
so the nail head is just snug
to the pipe, to avoid any
flattening of the pipe.
Wood "" Co pper Arbor • 73
Like this beautiful octagonal gazebo, our simp ler 6-sided
version (page 77) offers plenty of opportunity to add personal
touches, such as divided-light windows and a custom door.I 3-Season Gazebo large, windowed gaze bo is th e ultim ate identi call y and are designed with standard- sized
A o utdoo r roo m. In s umm e r, full y sc reened
op e nings u sh er coolin g breezes th rou gh
th e shaded interi or. During th e coo le r days of
co mbinati on storm windows and sta ndard fi xed utility
windows. The sixth wall contai ns a standard pre-hung
storm door and a utili ty window. Yo u can foll ow the
spring and fa ll , slide- up sto rm w indows prov ide plan's specifications for wi ndow and door sizes or choose
com fo rt without limitin g th e full , 360-degree view. custom sizes and alter the framing accordingly E ither
Becau se th e gaze bo is e nclosed , yo u ca n decorate way, it's a good idea to buy th e units and have th em on
th e inte ri o r and kee p it furni shed yea r-round , or hand fo r meas uring before you frame th e wa lls.
use th e sp ace for off-season storage . As with th e 8-sided Gazebo (page 148), m aking
T he 3-season Gazebo on page 77 has a classic th e many angled c uts on this projec t is muc h easier
hexagonal fl oo r plan. Five of th e walls are framed with a powe r mite r saw, preferabl y a compound saw.74 • GAZEBO &ARBOR PROJECTS
This gazebo (above) is the same design as the one on page 74, but it shows how a change in finish and hardware greatly alters the look. Consider custom detai ls like these while you look over the plans on the following pages to make your gazebo unique.
Inspired partly by screened gazebos such as this one (left), our version (on page 77) has combination windows with screen and glass, but you could fill the wall openings with screen only.
3-Sea50n Ga ze bo • 75I Material List Description (NO. finished pieces) Quantity/Size Material Foundation Concrete Field measure 3,000 PSI concrete Concrete tube forms 7-field measure for length 12”-diameter cardboard forms compactable gravel 2 cubic feet Framing Main posts (6) 6 @ 10’ 4x6 Floor support posts (6) 1 @8’ 4x4 Center pier pad (2-3 pieces) 1 @3’ Exterior-grade plywood 2x8 as needed for shim material Floor frames: Perimeter and Interior Floor Beams (18) 18@ 8’ 2x8 Floor Joists (9) 9@8’ 2x8
Perimeter roof beams (6) 6@8' 4x6
Roof hub (1) 1 @ l' 6x6
Hip rafters (6) 6 @ 10' 2x8
Purlins (6) 2 @ 10' 2x8
Intermediate rafters (18) 9 @ 12' 2x8
Trim nailers (24) 3 @ 8', plus cutoffs 2x4
from intermediate raftersWidow & door frames Field measure 4x4 Corner studs (12) 12 @ 10’ 2x4 Roof Truss top chord (4) 4@ 12’ 2 x 12 Truss bottom chord (8) 8@8’ 2x6 Truss strut (4) 1 @ 10’ 2x4 Hub (1) 1 @ 51” 4x4 Support joists (4 outer, 4 inner) 4@ 14’ 2x4 4@ 10’ Slat braces (4) 1 @ 8’ 2x4 1 @3’ Slats Field measure 2x2 Floor Decking 39@ 8’ 5/4” x 6” decking boards Roofing (roof covering) Roof sheathing 9 @4’ x 8’ 3/4” exterior-grade plywood Shingles and 15# building paper Coverage for 220 square feet. plus ridge caps Stairs Stringers (3) and stair pad (1) 2@8’ pressure-treated 2 x 12 Treads (6) 3 @ 10’ 5/4” x 8” decking boards Risers (optional, 3) 1 @ 10’ 1x6 1 @6’
76 • GAZE BO& A RBORPHOJ ECT S
Description (No. finished pieces) Quantity/Size Material Wall Finishes & Trim Top-of-wall trim 6@8’ 1 x 12 6@8’ 1 x 10 Window/door header trim Field measure 1x Exterior sheathing/trim Field measure Interior sheathing/trim Field measure Optional skirt framing 12 @ 8’ 2x4 Optional skirt sheathing/trim Field measure Framing connectors Post bases, main posts 6, with standoff plates Simpson ABU46, or similar and anchoring hardware approved connector Post bases, floor support posts 6, with standoff plates Simpson AB44, or similar and anchoring hardware approved connector Beam hangers 3, with recommended Simpson LS50Z, or similar fasteners approved connector Hurricane ties 6, with recommended Simpson H8, or similar fasteners approved connector Rafter connectors 6, with recommended Simpson FB26, or similar fasteners approved connector Stair stringer framing connectors 6, with recommended Simpson L30, or similar fasteners approved connector Hardware & Fasteners 518” x 12” J-bolts 7, with washers and nuts 1/2” x 12” J-bolts 6, with washers and nuts 1/4” x 10” galvanized carriage bolts 12, with washers and nuts 3 1/2” x 1/4” galvanized lag bolt 6, with washers and nuts Construction adhesive 10d galvanized common nails 16d galvanized common nails 21/4” deck screws 21/2” deck screws 8d galvanized box nails Heavy-duty staples Roofing nails 31/2” galvanized wood screws 1/4” x 6” galvanized lag screws, with washers
-
Wall Frames are made up of the corner studs and door and window frames.
3-Sea50n Gaze bo • 77 ~ ./7/ 1 ~~ ~ ~ ~ 1'1 ~ ~ # / /f ! ! l ~""~
I 3-Season Gazebo Elevation A’/ / / / / f ’ 1 I ! 1 ! l ~
/ //~
”-..”-..”-..
”-..~
/Ai’ ! ! ! I’h"""
Lf’/
//A 1- 1- ! J J l CEDAR SHAKES, .
~ //£/ ~] J 1 ! J 1- J ! -~ ""-~~, ~ XPOSED RAFTERTAILS
~ /7//// / AI' l ! ! ! ! ! ! ! '.L "-..
"- "-.."""" ~
"-..
# / / //////A' ! I ! ! ! l I ! 1 I ~"-..~ "-...."-.."-.."-.."-.. ~
P //.&///L/::/A J., J., J J J J., ~ ~ ~ ! ~""""""""" r;-:.....
A!/'/L'0'~L'0'~A J J J. J J l J J., ~ ~ ~ J. ~""""" "" ~
~/~//~//~/~ l l! ! ! l ! ! ! l ! ! ! ~~"""""
~ 0.,,"" ~
/ //. / ' / / / / / / / / / / . . d ' I ' - ! ! ! ft ! ! ! !! !! ! ~""""" ;:-....."""""~
A ~ L ~' A
\........,...; ./ U
" ';-/
[] ~~
_ 4X4 FRAME
WINDOWS
-MAIN POST
/ / _ SHEATHING
(lXWOODTRIMOR
I CEMENT BOARD)
EXTERIOR
SHEATHING PANEL
2X8 PERIMETER FLOOR BEAM
~ \ I--
"----I XWOOD SIDING
4X6 MAIN POST
®/ '-
4X4 FLOOR SUPPORT POST\
1/4' X 10' CARRIAGE BOLTS "
SIMPSON ABU46 BASE
SIMPSON ABU« BASE
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,,
12" DIA.POUREDCONCRETE ,, ,,I 3-Season Gazebo PIER- EXTEND 1” ABOVE GRADE & BELOWfROST LINE , , TYP Foundation Detail , 12’ DIA.POURED CONCRETE PIER · EXTEND BElOW FROST LINE & _______________________________ __ __ __ ’ _ ______ J:qElIQJ l’ ~~V!§~APL ______________ _ ~±::7’---- (2) 2X8X8TREATED CENTER PIERPAD- SHIM TO PROPER HEIGHT ,, 12’ DIA.POURCO CONCRETE ,, , PIER- EXTEND BELOWFROST UNE , ,, 4X6 ! 4X4PQST , ,, ,, ,, , , , , , ,, , , , , I 3-Season Gazebo ,, ,,
Foundation Plan
"'(jj", .. ~-----
"":@:/
" ---- ,78 • GA ZEBO&A RBO RPH OJECTS
I 3-Season Gazebo
Floor Framing Plan
6'-6111'
2X8 FLOOR .IOISTW/
3Qoo END CUTS
12'DIA.POUREO
CONCRETE CENTER PIER
30' END CUTS- SET ATOP 4X4
FLOOR SUPPORT POST
--------------------------------------------------, ,,
,,I 3-Season Gazebo , ,, ’. ,, ’~ ROOFBEAMABOVE Floor Plan ,, , ’~ ’~ RDOFEDGEASOYE ,, ,, , , 5/4 X6 WOOD DECKING BOARDS- , , RUN ACROSS TO ’. FLOOR JOISTS , , , ,, , , ,, , , ,, , ,, , , ,, , 4X6 MAIN POST , ,
"
S''()' WINDOW UNIT DPN'G (ROUGH OPN'G)
EQ (COORD.WI AO UAL WINDOWS (HOSEN) EQ
3-5ea50n Gazebo • 79
~_-- WOOD SHAKES
~_-- ROOF HUB
2X8 HIP RAFTER BEYOND
I 3-Season Gazebo 2X81NTERMEOIATE RAffiR
Section 2X81NTERMfDlATE RAFTER
ICIICIII IIDIIDII EAVE DETAIL
FLOOR BEAMS
(2) 2XBXB TREATED CENTER
PIER PAD· SHIM TO PROPER
I
CONCRETE
PIER
12' OIA.POURED CONCRETE
PIER -EXTEND BELOW FROST UNE
5'-?'± 3'-3"±
5'-0' SHOWN -(DOROW/ 2'-S' SHOWN - COORD
3 112' ACTUAL WINDOWS 31/2" 31/2' WI ACTUAL DOOR 31/2'
r 4X4WlNDOW r 4X4WINDOW
i r-
// HEADER \ HEADER
T}OO -00 0000 00 1 0 0
°i1
0-_ ---- 00-_
:: :::: ::
~ ':.: :::::.::.:.:.:.: -:: ~~--:----:----------:.---::
,--------------, --------------,
,r----- ------- - ,, -- ------ ----' ,.
~"
,
, ,, ,
,
,
IN-- 4X4 SCREWED ~ 4X4 SCREWED
WOOD FRAME WOOD FRAME
,L__ __ _ _ ___
-------------
3 12' EO 3 /2' EO 31/2'
I 3-Season Gazebo I 3-Season Gazebo
Window Frame Template Door Frame Template80 • GAZEBO&ARBORPHOJECTS
I 3-Season Gazebo £::”.-_--- MAIN POSTS BELOW
Roof Framing Plan .;:;:;;:==1 =:;::;:;4 2XB HIP ROOF RAFTER==1==1
,,
,,
,
2X81NTERMEDIATE
I
)'f-- ---1 f-- --4 f - - --4f-
_---"::::::¥'fif--;---- 2X8 PURlIN· WI 30" END
CUlBaTHENaSI 3-Season Gazebo Hip RafterTemplate
2X8 PURLIN RAfTER PLACEMENT
12
I 3-Season Gazebo
Intermed iate Rafter Tem plate
3-5ea50n Ga zebo • 81
2XB HIP RAfTER
RAfTER -I-+-/
CONNECTOR
I 3-Season Gazebo
Rafter Hub Detail WOOD SHAKES OVER
15# BUILDING PAPER
3/4' PLYWOOD
2XB HIP RAfTER
2X4 WOOD NAILER
1XWOOD TRIM OR
EXT. SHEATHINGWINDOW UNIT lXWOODTRIM STARTING SHINGLE WINDOW UNIT 4X6 PERIMETER ROOf BEAM MAIN POST BEYOND 4X4 WINDOW I DOOR fRAME
lxWDTRIMOR 2X4 CORNER STU~
EXT.SHEATHING
SIMPSON LSSO@
TIE BEAM TO POST I 3-Season Gazebo
BEAM ABOVE WI SIMPSON HB
OR SIMILAR Eve Detail
I 3-Season Gazebo
Corner Detail
1'-0" 1'-0" 1'-0"
(;'
I"
s
~+---~------.~
/ t=~c=~ .....
SIMPSON L30
2X12 STRINGER
1X6 RISER (RIP AS REQ'D.)
514 XBTREADS (RIP AS REQ'D.I
2X BLOCKING AS REQUIRED
I 3-Season Gazebo
Stair Detail82 • GAZEBO&ARBORPHOJECTS
I How to Build the 3-Season Gazebo step A: Pour the Concrete Piers pie rs. Eac h time, measure from the ce nterpoint and on e of the ori ginal two outer piers to avoid com- See pages 2 12 to 215 for basic instru cti ons on laying pounding inacc uracy. Unti e th e mason’s strin g. out and pouring concrete pi er foo tings. Detailed 4. Dig th e holes and se t th e concrete form s, fol- steps for layi ng out a hexagon are give n below. Use lowin g th e steps on page 2 14 and th e requireme nts 12”-di ameter concrete tube form s for the six outer of th e local building code . The outer form s should piers and th e ce nter pier. extend 2” above th e ground ; the ce nter form should TIP: There’s a convenient mathematical rule exte nd II ” above th e ground. that makes it easy to layout a hexagon: the cen- 5. Se t up batte rboa rd s behind all of th e pi ers. terpoint and all six outer pOints are equidistant. Run three maso n’s strings ove r the ce nte rs of Therefore, if you measure the same distance from oppo sin g pi e rs, ma king sure they all cross ove r th e the center and one outer pOint, the intersection of cente rpoint (on th e ce nte r pie r). those measurements is the location of a second NOTE: The strings stay in place for the con- outer point, and so on. crete pour, so make sure they’re high enough to 1. Drive a stake into th e ground at th e gazebo’s ce nte rpoint, then drive a nail into th e ce nter of th e allow easy access to the forms. Use the measur- stake . Set up batterboards on oppos ing sides of th e ing technique from step 3 to mark the centers of gaze bo footprint, and run a maso n’s line that passes the piers onto the strings. Confirm that each con- direc tly ove r th e centerpoint. crete form is centered on the layout. 2. Ma rk th e string at th e ce nterpoint, the n meas- 6. Make two more marks on th e strin gs to indi- ure out in both directions and mark the string at 83 ca te th e J-bolt loca ti ons: one at 80V4” from th e cen- \12”. Drive a stake and a nail at oute r mark, using a terpoint and one at 85 V4” from the centerpoint. plumb bob to transfer the string markings to the 7 . Pour and sc reed th e conc rete . Into eac h ground. These points represent th e ce nte rs of two oute r pie r, se t a 1;2 ” x 12” J-bolt at th e 80 3/4” strin g outer piers. ma rkin g. Set a 5;8” x 12” J-bolt at th e 8 5 1/4 ” mark . 3. With two helpers, pull one tape meas ure from Po siti on th e bo lts so th ey are plumb a nd exte nd th e ce nterpoint and one from an outer stake. C ross 3/4” to I” a bove th e co nc re te (follo w th e pos t base th e tapes so they meet at 83 1;2”- at th at intersec tion , ma nufac ture r’s spec ifi ca tions ). Set a 5/8 ” x 12” dri ve a stake and nail to represe nt a third outer pier. J-bolt into th e ce nte r of th e ce nte r pie r so it Re pea t th e process to lay out th e three rema ining exte nd s 5” a bove th e co ncrete .
With a hexagonal layout, the
distance between the centerpoint
o n and outer piers is the same as
the distance between any two
adjacent piers. INSET: Each outer
pier gets two J-bolts.
1,-211 X 1,-2"
1,.211X 1/.2." J-bolt
~ cente~::" --~f+t.. J -bolt
831,2"
!-j--------:
,, ,,
L ____ ____ •
-,I'-----f11- 80:¥4"
+----.."L-+-85W
o o
3-Seaso Jt Gazebo • 83
step B: Set the Posts 5. Install the 4 X 4 post bases (w ith standoffs) so
the floor support posts will be flush against the
1. Use a straight board to mark reference lines inside edges of th e main posts. Measure from th e
for squaring the post bases: Set the board flat standoff to the height mark and cut each floor sup-
against the J -bolts on the center pier and each outer port post to fit.
pi er and mark along the board across the top of the 6. Anchor the support posts to the ir bases, using
outer pier. the recommended fasteners. Then, anchor each sup-
2. Center a 4 x 6 post base over each outer J-bolt port post to a main post with two l!4" X 10" carriage
and use a framing square to make sure the base is bolts, as shown in th e FOUNDATION DETAIL on
square to the reference line. Secure the bases with page 78.
washers and nuts; use the hexagon meas uring tech-
nique to make sure all points are equidistant. Add the
provided standoff plate to each base.
Step C: Add the Center Pier Pad
3. Leaving the 4 x 6 main posts long, set them 1. Run a level lin e across the tops of two oppos-
into the bases, and position them so their outside ing floor support posts. Measure from the top of
edges are 88" from the centerpoint. Tack each post in the center pier to find the thickness of the center
place with a nail, then install cross bracing so the pier pad.
post is perfectly plumb. Re-check for equidistant 2. Create a pad from 2 X 8 lumber, adding exteri-
placement, then fasten the posts as recommended by or-grade plywood as needed for shim material to
the base manufacturer. achieve the proper thickness. Assemble the pad with
4. On the inside face of one of the main posts, construction adhesive and nails.
make a mark 15" above the top of the pier. Using a 3. Drill a counterbored hol e in th e pad's center
mason 's string and a line level , transfer this height for the J-bolt, and anchor the pad to the center pier.
mark to th e other main posts. Cut off any excess bolt so it's flush with top of pad.Mark a line across the tops of the piers; this helps ensure Countersink the J-bolt nut and washer into the wood pier all post bases are facing the gazebo’s center. pad, so the floor beams sit flush on top.
84 • GAZEBO&ARBORPHOJECTS
Step D: Frame the Floor I. Build th e six double 2 x 8 perimeter flo or bea ms foll owing the FLOOR FRAM ING PLA N, on page 79 . C heck the boards for c rowning (see page 60), makin g sure th e crown ed edges are up ; th en c ut th e bea m ends at 30° so th ey break on th e ce nters of th e floor support posts. Join th e two boa rds for eac h beam with construction adh es ive an d 1Od co mmon nails . 2. 1nstall th e perimeter bea ms by toe nailing into th e main posts and floor support posts with 16d co m- mon na ils. Also nail the beam e nds togeth er. 3. Bui ld th e three doubl e 2 x 8 interi or fl oo r bea ms like th e perim eter bea ms. C ut th e ends at 30°, too (as shown in th e INTE RIOR BEAM D ETA IL). 4. Fas ten the interior beams to the ce nter pier pad and to one another with 16dnail s. Anchor the outer ends of th e beams to th e perim eter bea ms with beam hangers , using the recomm ended fa steners. 5. Mark th e floor joist layout onto th e bea ms fol- lowing th e FLOOR FRAMING PLAN ; space th e joists equall y across each section of the fl oor frame. 6. Meas ure and cut eac h joist to fit, beveling th e Join the interior beams to the perimeter beams with framing e nd s at 30°. Install th e joi sts crown up ; dri vin g connectors, making sure the tops of the beams are flush . three 16d co mmon nails into th e bea ms at eac h end. Make sure the joists are flu sh with th e tops of th e fl oo r bea ms.
step E: Install the Floor Decking As shown in th e FLOOR PLAN, th e 5/4 x 6 dec king is la id nea rl y perpendicular to th e floor joists (see photo, right). Each of the three floorin g sec tion s starts with a full-width piece aligned with th e center of an interior floor bea m. Install th e dec king one sec ti on at a ti me. I. Starting with any one of the three fl oo ring sec- tion s: C ut the outside end of th e first decki ng board at 30° to fit flu sh with the outside face of th e perime- ter bea m . The pointed end shou ld touch the main post. Let th e inside end of the dec king board run long ove r th e center of the floor fram e. 2. Al ign th e dec king board with th e ce nte r of th e inte rior floor bea m (th e sea m betwee n th e two bea m boa rd s) , and fasten th e dec king to th e bea ms and joists with two 2 1/4” dec k screws dri ve n through pil ot holes. 3. Install the remaining boards in th e sec tion , run- ning the ends long over th e interior and perimeter bea ms. Snug th e boards tightl y togeth er to preve nt gaps that co uld let in insec ts. Rip th e last board to fit flu sh alon g th e perim eter beam. 4. Trim the dec king boards in th e first sec ti on so Cut along chalk lines to trim the ends of the decking boards th e outsicle ends are flu sh with outside edge of along the floor beams.
3-SeasoJt Gazebo • 85
perim e te r bea m a nd th e inside ends are aligned w it h
the cente r of the interi or beam . Snap a chalk line to
e nsure a straight c ut, and use a circ ula r saw set to cut
just through the dec king.
5. Compl e te the rem aining section s of fl ooring
using th e sa me procedure. For th e fin al sec ti on, pre-
c ut th e inside e nds of th e boards at 30° to fit aga in st
th e first boa rd in th e first section.
Step F: Install the Roof Beams
I . Meas ure up from the floor dec k a nd mark o ne
of the main posts a t 94 111" . Transfer th at height mark
to th e re mainin g posts using a maso n's strin g a nd a
line leve l. C ut off th e posts at th e he ight ma rks (see
C utting Lumbe r Posts , page 34).
2. C ut the 4 x 6 roof beam s to spa n ac ross the
top s of th e main posts, as shown in th e ROO F
FRAMIN G PLA N, on page 81 , th e EAVE D ETAIL
and th e CO RNE R D ETAIL, on page 82. Mite r the
e nds a t 30° so th e joints break over th e ce nte rs of th e
posts.
3. Toe nail th e bea ms to th e main posts with
16d co mmon nails, the n anc hor the bea ms togeth e rAnchor the beam assembly to the main posts with hurricane ties, and then tie the roof beams together with metal angles. with hurri ca ne ties. Reinforce th e bea m-pos t co nn ec- ti on with adju sta ble-a ngle framing connec tors.
Step G: Install the Hip Rafters
I. C ut th e 6 x 6 roof hub to le ngth at 12" .
2. On a table saw, trim off 311" from one s id e so
th e hub meas ures 4314" X 5 1;2" . Se t th e saw bl ade to
30° and make four full -le ngth c uts to c rea te six face ts
at 23/4", as shown in th e RAFT E R HUB D ETA IL, on
page 82.
3. Selec t two stra ight 2 x 8s to use for th e pat-
te rn hip raft e rs. C hec k th e boa rds for c row nin g,
th e n c ut th e m fo ll owin g th e HIP RAFTE R T E M -
PLATE, on page 8 1 (see page 222 fo r ma rkin g a nd
c utting raft e rs). T he slope for th e hip rafte rs is 7 1;2
-in-1 2.
4. Tes t-fit th e rafte rs and hub on th e gazebo
fra me. M ake a ny necessalY adjustm e nts for a good
fit. Use one of th e rafters to mark th e re mainin g fo ur
hip rafte rs, a nd ma ke th e cuts.
5. Insta ll th e hip rafters so th eir top e nds are flu s h
with th e top of th e hub and their bottom e nd s fall
ove r th e joi nts of th e roof bea ms. Faste n the raft e rs
to th e fra ming conn ectors using 31;2" x JA" lag bolts.
Toenail th e sides of th e hip rafters to th e hub with
21;2" dec k sc rews .Install the hip rafters so their top ends are flush with the top of the hub. INSET: Toenail the rafters to the sides of the hub for extra support.
86 • GAZEBO &A RBOR PR O JECTS
step H: Install the Purlins step I: Sheath & Shingle the Roof & Intermediate Rafters 1. Starting at the eave and working up , cut 3/4” ply- 1. Measure up from the ends of th e hip rafters wood to span between th e centers of the hip raft ers. and mark th e side faces at 6S”. These marks repre- NOTE: Starting with a 4 x 8-ft. sheet of plywood se nt the bottom faces of the 2 x S purl ins. means that about 2-3” of the rafter tails will be seen, 2. C ut th e six 2 x S purlins to fit between th e as shown in the ROOF FRAMING PLAN. If desired, rafters, beveling the ends at 30°. you can slightly adjust the amount of exposure. 3. Na il the purlins to the rafters with I 6d co m- 2. Fasten the sheathing with Sd box nails driven mon nail s, so th eir faces are perpendicular to th e evelY 6” along the perim eter and evelY 12” along rafter faces and a ll edges are flu sh alon g the top. intermediate rafters and purlins. 4. Ma rk th e layo ut for the intermedi ate rafters 3. C ut and insta ll the re maining sheathing. At the onto th e purlins and roof beams; follow th e ROOF roof peak, cut the pieces to a point so they enclose FRAM ING PLAN on page S I. th e hub. 5. C ut a pattern intermedi ate rafter from a 2 x S, 4. Install 15# building paper and ceda r shingles, following th e INTERME DIATE RAFTER TEM- following the steps on pages 226 . Install the sh ingles PLATE, on page SI. Test-fit the rafter against the so th eir top ends run long over th e ridges of th e roof, purlins and roof beams, and make any adjustm ents t he n trim them off with a saw. necessa ry for a good fit. S. Cap the ridges with c usto m-beveled shingle 6. Using the pattern rafter, mark and cut the 17 caps or Ix cedar boards. Use a T-bevel to find th e remaining intermediate rafters. angle of the ridge (see Step D, on page 23 1), th en 7. Install the rafters on their layo ut marks, using bevel the edges of th e cap shingles on a table saw. I 6d common nails. Al tern ate th e overlap with eac h cap .
Endnail or toenail the intermediate rafters to the purlins. Bevel the edges of both shingles for each cap, and Toenail the rafters to the roof beams. alternate the overlap between courses.
3-5ea50n Ga ze bo • 87
step J: Frame the Walls step K: Build the Stairs
The wall frames consist of 2 X 4 corner studs at the I. Use a framing square to layout the first 2 X 12
ends of each wall section and 4 x 4 frames for the stair stringer; follow the STAIR DETAIL on page 82.
window and door openings. You can build the win- Starting at one end of the board, position the framing
dow and door frames on the ground, the n tip the m square along the board's top edge. Align the 12" mark
up and secure them to the gazebo framework. on the square's blade (long part) and the 6 W' mark
Follow the WINDOW FRAME TEMPLATE and on the tongue (short part) with the edge of the board.
DOOR FRAME TEMPLATE, page 80, for the basic Trace along the outer edges of the blade and tongu e,
layout of the frames . Modify any dimensions as need- then use the square to extend the blade, marking
ed to fit your window and door units. across the width of the board. The tongue mark rep-
1. At each corner inside the gazebo, measure up resents th e first riser.
from the bottom edges of the roof beams and make a 2. Measure down I" from the blade mark and
mark at 31;2". Cut the 122 X 4 corner studs to fit make another line parallel to it- this is the cutting line
between the floor and the marks on the roof beams. for the bottom of the stringer (th e 1" offset compen-
2. Position the studs, as shown in the FLOOR sates for the thickness of the treads on the first step).
PLAN on page 79, making sure they are flush to the 3. Continue the step layout, starting at th e point
outside edges of the floor decking. Fasten the studs where the first riser mark meets th e top edge of the
to the floor and roof beams with 16d common nails. board. Mark the top cutting line by extending the
3. Cut the 4 X 4 members for each window and third tread mark across the board's width. Mark the
door frame , using the rough opening dimensions spec- top end cut 12" from the top rise r.
ified by the window/door manufacturer. When the 4. Cut the stringer and test-fit it against the gaze-
frames are installed, the bottom faces of the top hori- bo. Make any adjustments nec essaty for a good fit,
zontal pieces should be flush with the bottom faces of then use the stringer as a pattern to mark the remain-
the roof beams, as shown in the EAVE DETAIL. ing two stringers, and make the cuts.
4. Assemble the fram es with 31;:2" wood screws 5. Anchor the top ends of the sttingers to the floor
driven at an angle through pilot hol es . Drive four beam, using framing connectors. Secure the bottom ends
screws at each joint, locating the screws on the faces as required for your specific application, such as with
that will be least \~sible after the windows and door 2x blocking nailed between the stringers and anchored
are installed. For example, on the horizontal header to a concrete pad or spiked into the ground. You can
and sill pieces, drive two screws through the top and cut the blockin from leftover 2 X 12 stringer material.
bottom faces and into the vertical jambs. 6. Cut the stair treads to fit the stringer assembly,
5. Center eac h window and door frame within its overhanging the risers as des ired. Start with a full-
wall section. Measure the diagonals to make sure the width 5/4 X 8 tread at the front of each step, then rip
frame is sq uare, then fasten the frame to the roof the next piece to fit. Fasten the treads with 2 W' dec k
beam and floor with 1/4" X 6" lag screws. Countersink screws. If des ired, add Ix riser boards to enclose the
the screws below the surface of the frame pieces. back of each step.When installed, the tops of the window and door frames are level with the tops of the corner studs.
88 • GA ZE BO&ARBORPHOJ ECTS
step L: Add the Wall Finishes How you sheath and trim the walls of your gazebo is up to you and will likely be determined by th e styl e of the windows and door. The trim details shown in th e plan s are me re ly suggestions for enclosing the walls and covering some of the framing for a more finish ed appearance. T he openings in th e wa ll frames ca n be cove red with exterior-grade pl ywood, Tl-ll sidin g, or another type of siding. The spaces above the roof beams should be cove red with 1X trim or exterior sheathing and sec ured at the top to 2 X 4 nailers installed between the rafters; see EAVE DETA IL. Also, see CORNER DETAIL for inte rior/exte rior co rn er trim ideas . You also have the option of adding a skirt below th e Aoor fram e between th e main posts. To do thi s, install 2 X 4 nail ers betwee n the posts , then add exte- rior sheathing, as shown in the SECTION drawing, Position the square on the board, using the tread and riser on page 80. dimensions, then trace along the square to mark the cutting lines.
Overlap the framing
with trim or sheathing by
at least 1" to make room
for nailing and to help
weather-proof
the structure. Consider
filling in the cavities
below windows with
siding installed with
molding, as shown here.
3-5ea50n Gazebo • 89
This dramatic structure is sparer in design than our Gabled
Entry (page 93) but features similar construction and styling.
Open sides and a lighter roof covering, as shown here, mightI Gabled Entry be prefe rred if the structure is away from the house.
n attrac tive, shaded entryway can do a great house, thus you can also place th em ou t in th e yard
A deal for a hom e's exterior. It can dress up a
ba re front e ntrance whil e adding both sh el-
ter and a welc oming fea ture to the fa<,:a de . At a rear
or garde n, or u se th em as portals to e nc losures.
T he timbe r fra me co nstruc tion a nd c ustom wood
details of th e Gabled Entry on page 93 crea te a na tu -
entrance, it can serve as a bridge be tween th e indoor ra l beauty. T ha t beauty is enh anced w hen th e pos t-
a nd outdoo r spaces, helping to draw the house and a nd-bea m fra mewo rk and lattice roof a re covered
garden closer together. Often gabled entries are self- with climbing vi nes, tran sforming th e struc ture into
supportin g and do not need to be ti ed into th e a lush garden enc hantm ent.90 • GA ZE BO& A RBORP HOJECTS
Attached to the house at one end, this rear-entry structure also serves as an overhead for a deck.
Flowering vines fill
an entryway with
dappled light and
fragrant air to be enjoyed
with each pass through.
Gabled Entry • 91I Material List Description (No. finished pieces) Quantity/Size Material Posts & Foundation Posts (4) 4 @ field measure 6x6 Concrete Field measure 3,000 PSI concrete Gravel Field measure Compactable gravel Post trim (16) 1 @ 10’ 1x6 1 @ 10’ 3/4” X 3/4” cove molding Roof Roof beams (2) 2 @ 8’ 6x6 TOp chords (12) 6 @ 12’ 2x6 Bottom chords (3) 3 @ 8’ 2x6 Struts (3) 1 @ 10’ 2x4 Ridge boards (2) 1 @ 6’ 2x6 Lattice (4) 4 panels @ 4 x 8’ Cedar or redwood manufactured lattice with 112” or thicker slats Brackets (4 front/ rear, 4 side) 1 @ 10’ 2x 8 2 @ 8’ Railing Rails (6) 6 @ 8’ 2x4 Pickets (22 lower, 10 upper) 5 @ 8’ 2x2 1 @4’ Hardware & Fasteners Post-to-beam ties 8, with recommended Simpson 1212HLPC, or fasteners similar approved connector 1/4” x 5” galvanized carriage bolts 30, with washers and nuts 16d galvanized common nails 10d galvanized common nails 8d siding nails 1/4” x 4” galvan ized lag screws 16, with washers 6d galvanized finish nails 4d galvanized finish nails 3” deck screws
92 • GAZE BO& A RBORPHOJ EC T S
Gabled Entry • 93
I Gabled Entry
TOp Chord Template ~--- (4) 5" CARRIAGE BOLTS
.------ LATIICE ROOF
_____- 2X6 TOP CHORD
____- 2X4 STRUT
12
2X6 BOTIOM CHORD
(3) 5" CARRIAGE BOLTS
31/2" RADIUS
6X6 ROOF BEAM
FRONT / REAR BRACKET
CUT FROM 2X8 -
CENTER ON POSTS
6X6 POST
MITER CUT 1X6 BASETRIM
W/ 1XCOVETOP
I Gabled Entry
Front Elevation94 • GAZE BO& A RBORPHOJ EC T S
- - - r - 2-2X6 RIDGE BOARDS
(NOT CONTINUOUS THROUGH
CENTER TRUSS)
6X6 ROOF BEAM
METAL STRAP(SIMPSON
1212HLPC SHOWN)
6X6 POST - _ . /
LATTICE ROOF
:: :: :: IT :: :: ::
~ ~~ f=~~ = ~~ f=~~ ~~ f=~~ I"Ij::! ~~ f=~~ ~~ f=~~ ~~ f=~~ l= ~
~ :;~ t;~ - :;~ t;~ :;~ t;~ :g:I""I :;~ t;~ :;~ t;~ :;~ t;~ - ~
~ ~~ ~~ - ~~ ~~ ~~ ~~ :g:~ ~~ ~~ ~~ ~~ ~~ ~~ - ~
;;;; ;;;;
~ :;=t;f:: :;=t;f:: :;=t;f:: III""I :;=t;f:: :;=t;f:: :;=t;f:: ~
~ ~ f::~ ~ f::~ ~ f::~ II~ ~ f::~ ~ f::~ ~ f::~ ~
~ ~I Gabled Entry =t; :;=Ft; :;=Ft; I""Ift :;=Ft; :;=Ft; :;=Ft; :r~ rc~ F :; ;;;;; ;;;; ;;;;; ;;;;; ;;;;; ;;;;; ;;;;; ;;;;
Side View of Major Framin g . ,/ ~ 0 • 0 • 0
.
~ ~
0
SIDE BRACKET
CUTFROM 2X8
~-O" ONCENTER TYP.
r-- 2X4TOP RAILS
)'
,,
/ /
./ V-
'''\ II I
V'- r- 2X2 PI CKETS
V
r- 2X4 BOTTOM
~
""
Co
;....
V ,Ir RAIL
- '==
"
'" , ,
v 6" JI CENTERTYP.
I Gabled Entry
Side Elevation
Gabled Entry • 95
6'-11"
51/2" 5 1/2"
, ,
[6] , I" I'
I"
N
~
<n
I Gabled Entry
Post Layout Plan
N
~
~
[6] , I' ,
" "
7'-101 /2"
/
/
/
EQ.
L- v
/ r 6X6 ROOF BEAM /
EQ.
v / '"
I I
~ POST BELOW
~'.RADIUS
I Gabled Entry I Gabled Entry
Beam Layout Plan Beam End Detail96 • GAZEBO&A RBO RPH OJECTS
1/ v
/ V
V /'
V 1/ v
V /'
/'
/
v
v
V ~ V ,. "
V L I~ V
1/ '- - " '- "R,lnll S V L ~ ,/
1/ ''- I-- h '- "RAni! I ~
/ /
,.
/'
1/
.' IV I ,.
I
II ,.
GRID SHOWN = 2" ,.
I Gabled Entry I Gabled Entry
Side Bracket Front/Rear Bracket
r TRUSS - CENTER
ON POST
HIDDENC bI LINE TYP.
Gabled Entry
EQ. EQ.
Roof Framing Plan
~2X6 TOP
CHORD
~2X4STRUT
~2X6RIDGE LATIlCE ROOF
BOARD
6X6 BEAM
BELOW
/~X6ROOF
BEAMC tJ
I Gabled Entry
Roof Plan HIDDEN
lINETYP,
Gabled Entry • 97I How to Build the Gabled Entry Step A: Set the Posts SteR B: Cut & Install the The four 6 x 6 posts are set in the ground with con- Roof Beams crete. See page 220 for detai led steps on digging the I. Cut the 6 x 6 roof beams to length at 94Ijz”. post holes and setting the posts. The post depth 2. Make a cardboard template for shaping the must extend below the frost line and meet the beam ends; follow the BEAM END DETAIL on requirements of the local building code. Treat the page 96. Trace the profile onto the beams and make bottom ends of the posts for rot resistanc e before the cuts with a reciprocating saw or bandsaw. Sand setting them. the cuts smooth. 3. Position the beams on top of the posts so they I. Mark the post layout onto the ground; follow overhang the posts equally at both ends. At each the POST LAYOUT PLAN on page 96. Dig the post joint, hold a beam tie in position according to the tie holes and add a layer of gravel to each hole. Position manufacturer’s specifications, and mark the anchor and brace each post so its top end is at least 84” holes. Use two ties for each joint. above th e ground. Diagonally measure between the 4. Drill through pilot holes for the anchor posts to check for squareness: the layout is square bolts. Secure the ties using the manufacturer- when the two diagonal measurements are equal. recommended bolts. 2. Pour the concrete and let it dty completely. 3. If you don’t own a 6-ft. level, create a long Step C: Build the Roof Trusses leveling tool to mark the posts for cutting: Tape a All three trusses have identical parts. You can save standard 4-ft. level to the narrow edge of a straight, time and ensure accuracy by building one truss com- 7-ft.- or 8-ft.-long 2 x 4 so the level is roughly cen- pletely and test-fitting it on the structure. Assemble tered along the board’s length (see Photo B on page the truss with a few screws; when you know evety- 35 ). Another option is to use a mason’s string and thing fits, disassemble it and use its parts as patterns a line level. to make the other trusses. 4. Measure up from the ground and mark one of I. Each truss has four identical 2 x 6 top chords, the posts at 80”. Using your extended level, transfer with a plumb cut on the top end and a profiled cut on the height mark to the other three posts. Cut the posts the bottom end. Cut two top chords; follow the TOP to length (see Cutting Lumber Posts, on page 34). CHORD TEMPLATE on page 94 (see pages 222 to
Measure the diagonals as you pOSition the posts to ensure a square layout. Measure again after the posts are braced.
98 • GA ZE BO& A RBORPHOJ EC T S
223 for marking plumb cuts). The slope of the roof is 1O-in-12. Use a cardboard template to mark the pro- file for the bottom-end cuts. 2. Cut one 2 x 6 bottom chord to length at 77”. Cut one 2 x 4 strut at 32”. 3. To assemble the truss , sandwich the strut and bottom chord between the two sets of top chords; follow the layout shown in the FRONT ELEVA- TION on page 94. Align the bottom corners of the bottom chord with the bottom edges of the top chords. The strut sits on top of the bottom chord and is centered side-to-side on the truss. Tack the parts together with a minimal number of screws. 4. Test-fit the truss on the beams: The bottom chord should sit flush on both beams, with the top chords touching the outside corner edges of the beams. Test-fit the truss at both ends of the beams and at the center. Make any necessary adjustments to the truss for a good fit. 5. Using the cut truss parts as patterns, mark and cut the remaining parts so you have a total of 12 top chords, three bottom chords, and three struts. 6. Assemble the trusses with 1/4” x 5” carriage bolts, as shown in the FRONT ELEVATION. To fasten the strut to the bottom chord, toenai I a 16d common nail into each narrow edge of the strut and Anchor the beams to the posts with pairs of beam ties, one into the bottom chord. tie on each side of the joint.
Build the trusses by laying
out all the parts on the ground.
Fasten them together with
carriage bolts and nails.
Gabled Entry • 99
step 0: Install the Trusses & 1;2" or thicker slats (l" panel thickness). Stronger
panels hold up better over time.
Ridge Boards 1. Cut each lattice panel to size: The width
1. Measure in from th e ends of the beams and should span from the center of the e nd truss to the
mark the middle truss position so it will be centered center of the middle truss; the length should span
on the roof beams; see the ROOF FRAMING PLAN from the peak to the bottom ends of the trusses.
on page 97. TIP: Whenever possible, make the cut edges
2. Position the center truss on the layout marks. fall at the center truss and along the roof peak, for
Fasten it to the beams with two 16d common nails best appearance.
driven through each side of the bottom chord (eight 2. Fasten the roof panels to the truss chords and
nails total for each truss ). Use a level to make sure ridge boards with 8d siding nails driven through pilot
the truss stays plumb as you fasten it. holes to prevent splitting.
3. InstaLl the end trusses so they are centered over
the tops of the posts. Step F: Cut & Install the
4. Cut two 2 x 6 ridge boards to fit between the Brackets
trusses; see the ROOF FRAMING PLAN.
1. Make cardboard templates for marking the
5. Position the ridge boards between the trusses
bracket shapes; follow the BRACKET DETAILS on
so their top edges are flush with the tops of the top
page 97.
chords (not the truss peaks, where the pointed ends
2. Trace the side bracket profiles onto a lO-ft.
of the chords meet), and toenail them to the chords
2 x 8, alternating their orientation so you can cut four
with 1Od common nails.
brackets from one board. Trace the front and rea r
brackets onto two 8-ft. 2 x 8s.
Step E: Install the Roof Lattice 3. Cut out the brackets with jigsaw or bandsaw.
In addition to providing a partial-shade covering, the Sand the cuts smooth.
lattice panels tie together the trusses and are an 4. Make a mark 2" in from the outside faces of the
important part of the roof structure. Therefore, be beams and posts. Position each bracket on the insides
sure to use quality manufactured lattice made with of these lines. Align the top ends of the front and rearInstall the trusses by toenailing Install the roof panels so the seams Install the corner brackets so they are through the truss bottom chords and fali over the center truss and the ridge centered on the posts and beams. into the beams. boards.
100 • GAZEBO &ARBOR PROJECTS
brac kets with the bottom chords of th e end trusses. Dli IJ counterbored pilot holes through the fl at part of the notched ends of the bracket, and fasten the brac ket wi th one 14” x 4” lag screw at eac h end. T he top ends of the side brac kets should be on the 2” marks on the roof bea ms. T hese are centered on the bea ms, while the end brac kets are flu sh side by side under th e chords.
Step G: Add the Post Trim 1. Miter-c ut four 1 x 6 trim boa rd s to wrap around eac h post, as shown in the F RO NT ELEVATIO N . Test- fit th e pieces as you work, and don’t nail th em until you kn ow all of th e joints fit we ll . Fasten th e trim with 6d fini sh nails drive n through pilot holes. TIP: To make accurate cuts without measuring, hold the trim boards against the post and mark them for length. 2. Miter-c ut 3/4” x 3/4” cove molding to fit along the top of th e trim boards. Nail th e trim to th e posts with 4d fini sh na il s dri ve n through pilot holes . Hold together the mitered ends of two trim boards and mark the uncut ends along the post. step H: Build the Railings 1. O n th e in sid e faces of th e pos ts, mark th e layo ut fo r th e 2 x 4 top rail s; foll ow th e S ID E E LEVATIO N on page 9 5. Also ma ke ve rti ca l marks 1” in from one of th e s ide edges on eac h pos t. 2 . C ut th e three rail s (of th e fir st side ) to le ngth , so th ey fit snugly betwee n th e pos ts. 3 . Pos iti on th e rail s fl at on th e ir layo ut marks- th ey should be centered side-to-side on th e posts. Drill a ngled pilot hol es through th e narrow edges of th e rail s and into th e pos ts. Fas te n th e ra il s with 3” dec k sc rews , co untersinking th e sc rew head s. 4. M ark th e layouts for the 2 x 2 pickets onto th e rai ls, as shown in the SID E ELEVATION . Space th e uppe r, short picke ts 12” on ce nter; space th e lowe l~ long pic kets 6” on ce nter. Ce nter all of th e pic kets from side to side on the rails. 5. C ut th e 16 pic kets (of th e first side) to length , so th ey fit snugly between the rails. 6. Pos ition the pickets on the ir layo ut marks and fas- ten th em with 6d finish nails dri ve n through angled pilot holes. Use at least two nails at eac h end of th e pickets. 7. Repea t for oth er side .
Nail the finish nails into the pickets. To further hide the nail
heads, countersink the nails with a nail set.
Cabled E ll try • 101I Umbrella Arbor T h. e general definition of a n arbor leaves rib asse mbli es , whi ch can be built o n a work - pl e nty of room for inte rpre ta ti on. This be nc h. Las tl y, yo u add the fin al tou c h of I x 3 proj e ct is a ca se in po int. Ta kin g obviou s latti ce roo f slats. You mi ght want to use fewe r in spiration from the fa mili ar po p-up she lter, the slats for just th e sugges tion of a ca nopy o r s ub sti- Umbre ll a Arbor is a p e rm a ne nt ga rd e n stru cture tute ma nufac tured lattic e panel s for th e slats. th at beco mes a yea r-ro und sy mb o l of th e bri ght, T he umbre lla spans about 10 1;2 feet, so th ere’s breezy days of summ e r. plenty of she lter for a small center table and c hairs, Thi s c lever projec t is eas ie r to build th an it or two lounge rs pos itioned to give you a view through may a ppea r. It starts with a 6 x 6 pos t buri ed in th e slatted ca nopy covered with vines . th e ground. To the post yo u attac h e ight ide ntical
102 • GAZEBO & A RBOR PR OJEC T S
I Material List Description (No. finished pieces) Quantity/Size Material Post (1) 1 @ field measure 6x 6 Concrete Field measure 3,000 PSI concrete Gravel Field measure compactable gravel Rib Assemblies* Ribs & Brackets (8 ea ,) 8 @ 10’ 2x 4 Connectors (8) 4@8’ 2x2 Roof slats Field measure 1x 3 Hardware & Fasteners #10 x 3” galvanized wood screws 1/4” x 4” galvanized lag screws, 40, with washers 6d siding nails
-
Each rib assembly has 1 rib, 1 brace, and 1 connector.
1X3 WOOD SLATS
2X4 BRACKET 2X2 CONNECTOR 6X6 POST I Umbrella Arbor Elevation U ,nb re llaArbor • 103 CONCRETE FOUNDATION --~ TO BELOW FROST LEVEL I Umbrella Arbor Post/Ri b Deta iI LAG SCREWS _ _ _-----'
10 4 • GAZEBO &A RBO R PR OJECTS
I Umbrella Arbor
Rib Plan
I Umbrella Arbor
Roof Plan
1Xl WOOD SLATS
I Umbrella Arbor
Rib Assembly Detail
s ~S\
20'
2X4 RIB
1-0
L ~\\\\8 ’ ~V M 3” WOOD SCREWS ‘1’
f7
M
J'
Y LAGSCREWS
"%t" 3" WOOD SCREWS
~2X4 BRACKET LAGSCREWS
51-011
2X2 CONNECTOR
U ,nbrellaArbor • 105I How to Build the Umbrella Arbor Step A: Cut & Shape the Post To make the bevel cuts with The umbrella’s post is made from a single 6 X 6 tim- a table saw: ber, which you cut into an octagon by making four I. Set the blade of your table saw to cut at 45 °. If full-length 45 ° bevel cuts, using a table saw or circu- your blade tilts to the right, move the saw fence to lar saw. Beveling the top of th e post to a point is an the left side of the blade; if your blade tilts to the left, optional step. You might choose to leave the top flat move the fence to the right side. Position the fence and add a finial or garden ornament. about 37,1,” from the blade. 1. Determine th e total length of the post: First 2. Make a couple of test cuts on adjacent sides of find out how deep the post must be buried in the a scrap piece of 6 x 6 post. Measure the facets and ground, according to the local building code (as a readjust the fence as needed so all eight facets will be minimum, the post should be buried 30” deep and the same width (approx. 2 V4” ). Complete th e four below the frost line). To that dimension add 114” to cuts to create eight equal sides. find the total post length. Cut the post to length (see 3. To bevel the top of the post, position the saw Cutting Lumbe r Posts on page 34). fence on the other side of the blade and use a stop block and miter gauge to make the cuts at the desired depth. To prevent dangerous kickback, make sure the post is not contacting th e stop block when it reaches the blade.
Cut off each corner of the
post to make eight equal sides.
INSET: To shape the post end,
use a circular saw.106 • GAZE BO & A RBOR PROJ ECT S
To make the cuts with a Step B: Set the Post in circular saw: Concrete I. On the bottom end of the post, mark cutting See page 220 for detailed steps on digging the post lines 15;8” from two adjacent edges. hole and setting the post in concrete. 2. Set the saw blade to cut at 45 °. Make two short I. Treat the bottom of the post for rot-resistance test cuts on a scrap piece of 6 x 6 post, then measure (see page 220). Dig th e post hole and add a layer of the facets and adjust the cutting lines as needed so gravel to the hole. Position and brace the post so its all eight facets will be equal (approx. 2If4” ). top end is 114” above the ground and the post stands 3. Mark four cutting lines along the full length of perfectly plumb. the post, then make the cuts. 2. Pour the concrete and let it dry completely. 4. To bevel the top of the post, mark a cutting line Remove the braces. on all eight sides at the desired distance from the end. Make the cuts with the blade set at 45 °.
Set the post in concrete, following the requirements of the local building code.
U ,nbrella A rbor • 107Build the rib assem blies, making sure all of the pieces are flush and the joints are tight.
Fasten the rib
assemblies to the
post with even Iy
spaced 1/4" x 4"
lag screws.108 • GAZEBO &ARBOR PROJ ECTS
step c: Build the Rib a post facet and its bottom edge is on the layout mark. Fasten the 2 x 2 connector to the post with Assemblies four V4” x 4” lag screws with washers. Drive a lag 1. Cut the eight 2 x 4 ribs , 2 X 4 brackets, and screw at an angle through the top of th e 2 x 4 rib and 2 x 2 connectors following th e RIB ASSEMBLY into the post, as shown in the RIB DETAIL. DETAIL, on page 104. TIP: Cut one of each piece, then use it as a Step E: Install the Roof Slats template for marking the remaining pieces. 2. Build the assemblies with 3” wood screws, I. Mark a centerline down the length of eac h rib , following th e layout shown in the RIB ASSEMBLY along its top edge. DETAIL. The bracket and connector should form 2. Starting at the post, measure between adjacent a 50° angle. ribs and cut I x 3 slats to fit betwee n th e centerlines. Miter the ends of the slats at 2211.2°. Step D: Install the Rib 3. Fasten th e slats to the ribs with 6d siding nails driven through pilot holes to prevent splitting. Gap Assemblies the slats about 5” apart. As you work toward the ends I. Measure up from the ground and mark all of the ribs, measure the remaining distance and facets of the post at 60”. Predrill holes through the adjust the gaps as needed so the last slat will be flush backside of the connectors. with the ends of the ribs. 2. Position each rib assembly so it’s centered on
Use temporary spacers set between the slats to maintain consistent gaps while you fasten the slats.
U,nbrellaArbor • 109
While more enclosed than our Pool Pavilion design
(page 113), this playfu lly detailed structure demonstrates
the essence of a casual poolside retreat.I Pool Pavilion pavilion c reates an outdoor ro?m with a of uses. As shown in the plans, its four support posts
A uniquely casual grandeur. Defined by a
stately roof, the Pool Pavilion on page 113
has four open sides that invite e ntry from all
are buried in the ground with concrete, but you can
adapt th e project for a n existing patio by using post
bases and adding structural supports to the post-and-
directions and offer open views from th e shaded beam fram e for lateral strength (consult a profession-
interior. Adding curtains that flow with th e al for des ign modifications).
breezes provides an elegant and re laxi ng getaway In addition to hanging curtains or shades from
complete with shade and privacy. the beams , you might consider installing a set of
Of course, a backyard pool is not required. The weather-resistant cabinets a nd a sto ne or metal coun-
Pavilion's simple design makes it suitable for a variety tertop to create an outdoor kitchen or bar.110 • GA ZE BO& A RBORPHOJ ECTS
Where shade is desired over a large area, a grouping of pavilions can be far more interesting than a monolithic roof structure.
A pavilion is all
about summertime
leisure. This ornate
structure is also a
full-time patio shelter.
Pool Pavilion • 111I Material List Description (No. finished pieces) Quantity/Size Material Posts (4) 4 @ field measure 4 x 8 Walls (114” minimum) Post Piers Concrete tube forms 4-field measure for length 12” -diameter cardboard forms Gravel Field measure Compactable gravel Concrete Field measure 3,000 PSI concrete Beams Main beams (2) 2 @ 12’ 4 x 12 Notched brackets (4) 1 @ 10’ 4x4 Inner brackets (4) 1 @ 8’ 2x4 Roof Frame Rim beams-2 x 6 (2) 2 @ 10’ 2x6 Rim beams-2 x 8 (2) 2 @ 10’ 2x8 Roof hub (1) 1 @ 2’ 4x4 Hip rafters (4) 4@8’ 2x6 Intermediate rafters (4) 2 @ 12’ 2x6 Roofing Sheathing 4@4 x 8’ 3/4” exterior-grade plywood Shingles and 15# building paper 150 square feet, pius ridge caps Hardware & Fasteners 112” x 7” galvanized carriage bolts 16, with washers and nuts 16d galvanized common nails 31;2” galvanized wood screws 8d galvanized box nails Heavy-duty staples Roofing nails Metal roof flashing Roofing cement
112 • GAZE BO& A RBORPHOJ ECT S
Pool Pavilion • 113
/ V/ /
1'-0 1/8" 9'-83/4" 1'-01 /8"
1/ v / V/ / / / ,..—CEDAR SHINGLES /ROOFHUB , , l1] 1”- ”-
~ -----.,.
~ A::A 1"----.
.-r -r T~ 1\.."'.--,
~ T
.~::A ~
--
/'T I\.. &.
.<" 1" I
~T:Y I\.. &. • '1---
A: AAA:Y
.~ '==={ T &.
T
lI..
r
&. • L
i' 'l--- N
L--<
, • A A hi T I , , '>--
~ 3 Ie
A
===r A
~,- d\==f'= I\,. • ,
j
i: ,
-
0
l
r-
0
, I"N
1"- en
--
~
0 0
-- ,
0
"
~'X6 RIM BEAM SET FLUSH TO THE INSIDE OF "12
0 1"-
0 0
- 4X12 MAIN BEAM
'-
<;
4X4 NOTCHED BRACKET -
4X8 POST
-
~
9
1'--
12" DIA.CONCRETE FOOTING-
EXTEND POST AND FOOTING
BELOWFROST LINE
, ,
"-
"
A r- A "
I Pool Pavilion
Elevation114 • GAZE BO& A RBORPHOJ ECT S
111-9"1’-01/8” 9’-83/4” 1’-01/8”
ROOF HUB
SHINGLES
12
6
..-
~
PLYWOOD SHEATHIN
-
9'
2X61NTERMEDIATE R TER
'"
~
en
~
o 0
--
2X6 RIM BEAM SET FLUSH TO THE INSIDE OF 4X12
o o
2X8 NOTCHED RIM BEAM
4X12 MAIN BEAM
2X41NNER BRACKET
L----- 4X8POST
12" DIA. CONCRETE FOOTING-
EXTEND POST AND FOOTING
BELOW FROST LINE
I Pool Pavilion
Section
Pool Pavilion • 11 5
9'·11/2"
~
\
\ I'
-~------------------------------------------------
I Pool Pavilion
'---- 2X6 RIM BEAM ABOVE
Plan
W - + - - - - 4XI2 MAIN BEAM ABOVE~ ’;> ""’” b
’”’”
V 2XB RIM BEAM ABOVE
,
12" DIA. POURED CONCRETE FOOTING
4X8 POST
/
71 /4" 8'·61 /4" 71/4"
9'·83/4"
2" 11/2"
I Pool Pavilion
Roof Hub Detail
2X6 RIM BEAM
I Pool Pavilion
Bracket Detail
4X4 ROOF - ----./
HUB
2X6 HIP RAFTER
4X12 MAINBEAM
2X61NTERMEDIATE
RAFTER
7" LONG CARRIAGE
BOLTS W/ WASHERS
NOTCHED 4X4 BRACKET
2X41NNER BRACKET
4X8 POST116 • GAZE BO& A RBORPHOJ ECT S
NOTCHED 4X4 BRACKET
POSTBELOW
2X6 RIM BEAM
2X6 HIP RAFTER 2X61NTERMEDIATE
RAFTER
2X8 RIM BEAM
I Pool Pavilion
Roof Framing Plan
ROOF HUB
4X4 ROOF HUB
9'-8"s ~~ ,~ S ~S~~ ~~~ ; I Pool Pavilion ~ 1 1/2” 9’-5” 11/2” 1,,/ :: 2 X 8 Rim Beam Template /
9'-8"
/ /
v
12
~6
12
~6I Pool Pavilion END MUST BE BEVELED & - - - - - - - - ” CLI PPED TO FIT INTO CORNER
Intermediate Rafter ---- ----:. ~ ” ~ ;:;:; Template I Pool Pavilion I > Hip Rafter Template RAFTEREND DETAIL
Pool Pavili on • 117I How to Build the Pool Pavilion step A: Set the Posts step C: Install the Rim Beams The four 4 x 8 posts are buried in concrete piers I. Cut the two 2 x 6 rim beams to length at 113”. made with 12”-diameter cardboard tube forms. The 2. Cut the two 2 x 8 rim beams to length at post depth must extend below th e frost line and meet 116”. Check all of th e bea ms for crowning (see the requirements of the local building code. Treat the page 60). Notch the bottom corners of the 2 x 8 bottom ends of the posts for rot resistance (see page beams; follow the 2 x 8 RIM BEAM TEMPLATE 220) before setti ng them. on page 117. I. Layo ut the centers of the four post locations 3. Fit the 2 x 8 rim beams over the main beams so onto the ground; follow the PLAN drawing on page their inside faces are flush with the brackets. 116. Diagonally meas ure between the posts to check 4. Set the 2 x 6 rim bea ms- crown up- be- for square ness: the layout is perfectly square when tween the 2 x 8s, flush with the inside edges of the the diagonal measurements are equal. main beams. Make sure the rim beams are flush at 2. Dig 15”-diameter holes for th e post piers at the the tops and fasten them together with 16d com- pier depth required for your area, plus 4”. Fill the mon nails driven through the 2 x 8s and into the holes with a 4” layer of compactable gravel. ends of the 2 x 6s. 3. Cut the tube forms to length so they will slight- 5. Anchor the 2 x 6 beams to the notched ly extend above the ground level. Set the tubes in the brackets, using the top carriage bolt pilot hole . hol es, hold th em plumb, and then tightl y pack Countersink the washer and nut on the inside face around the outside with soil. of the 2 x 6, then cut off the bolt flush with the 4. Place a post into each form and brace it in posi- bea m so it won’t interfere with th e hip rafters. tion with 2 x 4 cross bracing. Make sure the posts are perfectly plumb and the layout is square. 5. Fill the forms with concrete, smooth the tops of the piers, and let th e concrete dly.
Step B: Set the Main Beams 1. Mark one of the posts 84” above the ground. Using mason’s string and a line level, transfer this height mark to the remaining posts. Cut the posts at the height mark (see Cutting Lumber Posts on page 34). 2. Cut four 4 x 4 notched bracket pieces to length at 28”. Notch the brackets as shown in the BRACKET DETAIL on page 116. 3. Cut four 2 x 4 inner brackets to length at 231/2”. 4. Cut th e two 4 x 12 main bea ms to length at 141”. Set each beam on a pair of posts so it over- hangs the posts equally at both ends. 5. Position a notched bracket on th e outer sur- fac e over the beam and post so it’s centered on the post. Position an inner bracket on the opposite side, centered on the post with its top end flush with the top of th e beam. Clamp the pieces together and drill pilot holes for liz” X 7” carriage bolts; follow the layout shown in the BRACKET DETAIL. Anchor the parts with carriage bolts in the three lower positions only. Set the posts in concrete, then cut off the exposed portion of the cardboard tube form.
118 • GAZEBO&ARBORPROJECTS
Anchor the main beams to the posts with two brackets secured with carriage bolts.
Endnail through the notched beam into the 2 x 6 rim beams, (not seen), and then anchor the 2 x 6s with ca rriage bolts.
Pool Pavilion • 119A table saw is the best tool fo r making the four cuts to create the octagonal roof hub.
Step D: Cut the Roof Hub step E: Frame the Roof With th e blade of a table saw or circu lar saw set at a I. Se lect two st ra igh t 2 x 6s for the pattern hip 45 ° angle, four c uts turn s a 4 x 4 into a n octagon . rafters , a nd c heck the boards for crowni ng (see TIP: Use a scrap piece of 4 x 4 to set up the cuts, page 60) . or use one end of the workpiece that you can cut 2. C ut the rafters following the I-IIP RAFTER off to create the finished hub. TEMPLATE on page II ? (see p age 222 for c ut- 1. I f yo u’re using a tab le saw, set the saw fence ting rafters ). T he roof s lope is 6- in-1 2. In add i- about 21,,2” from the blade-you’ll probably have to tion to hav in g a plumb c ut on its bottom end, the position the fe nce on th e le ft side of the blade. If hip rafte r gets 45 ° bevel c uts so th e e nd fits into yo u’re using a circ ul ar saw, draw cuttin g lin es down the co rn e r of the beams, as shown in the ROOF two adjacent s ides, abo ut I” frolll the corne r edges. FRAM I NG PLAN on page II ? The bottolll end 2. Make a coupl e of test cuts, then measure the a lso gets c lipp ed to c lear th e 2 x 4 inn e r b racket. facets. Adj ust the fence or cutti ng lines as needed so 3. Use the roof hub to test-fit the hip rafters that a ll eight facets will be equa l. against the rilll beams. The tops of th e rafte rs should 3. Make the final c uts down the full le ngth of the be flu sh with th e inside top edges of th e rim beams. hub . C ut the hub to le ngth at 14”. Make a ny necessalY adj ust ments for a good fit. NOTE: If the facets are slightly smaller than 4. Use one of the pattern rafters to mark the the thickness of the rafters, plane the rafter ends re ill a ining two hip rafters, th en make the cuts. or taper them with a chisel to match.
120 • GA ZE BO &AI1BOR PH OJEGTS
5. Install the hip rafters by screwing through thetop and sides of each rafter into the roof hub, using 3 Vz” wood screws. The hub should extend about 6 1/.2” above th e tops of the rafters. Fasten the bottom ends of the rafters to the beams with I6d common nails. Alternate between opposing sides as you work to ensure the hub remains centered. 6. Repeat the cutting and test-fitting process to cut four 2 X 6 interm ediate rafters; follow th e INTERMEDIATE RAFTER TEMPLATE on page 11 7. Install the intermediate rafters so they’re flush with the hip rafters at the hub and flush with the tops of the rim beams at the bottom ends. Also make sure the bottom ends are centered along the lengths of th e rim bea ms.
Step F: Sheath & Shingle the Roof As shown in the plans, the pavilion roof is sheathed with 3/4” exterior-grad e plywood. For a more attractive ceiling surface- and one that is less likely to show nails coming through- you can use 5/4 cedar decking instead of plywood. Drive angled screws to fasten the rafters to the roof hub. I. Install plywood sheathing from the bottom up. To layout the plyw’ood cuts, measure from the inter- med iate rafte r center to th e hip rafter center at the bottom ends. Mark the intermediate rafter 4 feet from the rim beam , and measure straight across to th e center of th e hip rafter. Transfer th e two dime n- sions to a sheet of plywood, measuring from the square factOlY edge. 2. Snap a chalk line between th e marks. Cut th e plywood along the line. 3. Position th e plywood so its bottom edge is butted against the rim beam and its side edges break on th e centers of the rafters. Fasten th e sheathing to the rafters with 8d box nails spaced every 6”. 4. Use the angled edge of the leftover plywood and make a square cut for the next piece of sheath- ing. When the bottom row of sheathing is finish ed, use the cutoffs to fill in the top row up to the hub. 5. Install 15# building paper and cedar shingles, following the steps on page 226. Install the shingles so their top ends run long over the ridges of the roof, then trim them off with a saw. Cap th e ridges with pre- made shingle caps or with I X cedar boards. Use metal flashing and roofing cement to seal around the roof hub. Align pre-made shingle caps over ridges, working from the bottom up.
Pool Pavilion • 121
Some summerhouses are attached to the main house
via a breezeway; these must be bu ilt on frost footings orI Summerhouse other deep foundation.
n ideal summerhouse co mbines the open- privacy. Dual sc ree ned doors e nsure ple nty of air-
A a ir shelte r of a screened porc h with th e
re mote seclus io n of an outbuildin g. Add a
bea utiful view and you ha ve th e ve ry essence of
Row for th e hottes t s umm e r days.
As sh own in th e plans, the Summerhouse's roof
is covered with tran sluce nt polyca rbon ate pa nel s that
let in ple nty of light whil e she lte ring th e inte rior from
le is ure. The Summ e rh o use on page ] 25 provides
showe rs. However, oth e r roof cove rings might bette r
everything but th e view.
Built on a co ncrete slab found ation , the suit yo ur climate and use of th e house. For exa mpl e,
Summerhouse is des igned for years of outdoor yo u might choose a more opaqu e mate ri al, or ha ng
exposure. The full y screened front wall stands fabric benea th the panels to help keep the inte rior
about nin e feet hi gh an d offe rs a sweeping view of cool. Wh atever type of roofing you use, make sure it
yo ur favo rite site. The lower, e ntry side h as solid co mpli es with th e local building code sta nda rds fo r
corner wall s for struc tural s upport and added year-round exposure (e.g., snow loads).122 • GAZEBO & AHBOH PH OJECTS
starting with post-and-beam construction, similar to our Summerhouse design, th is custom house gains personality from a unique roof shape, arched openings, and period railing details.
This lightweight variation on the summe rhouse features a cupola for decoration, while the continuous ha lf-wall gives it the feel of a screened porch.
SUI/IOI1er/toUSe • 123
I Material List
Description
(NO. finished pieces) Quantity/Size Material
Foundation
Concrete 1.63 cubic yards 3,000 PSI concrete
Gravel 1.25 cubic yards Compactable gravel
Mesh 100 square feet 6" x 6":W1.4 x W1.4
welded wire mesh
Form materials See page 212
wall Framing
Corner wall framing (22 studs, 26@8' 2 x 4 (pressure-treated
4 bottom plates, 4 top plates) lumber for plates)
Front wall posts (4) 4@9' 4x4
Front wall top beam (1) 1 @ 13' 4x8
Front wall intermediate beams (3) 1 @8' 4x6
1 @4'
Side wall beams (2) 2@8' 4x6
Rear wall beam (1) 1 @ 13' 4x6
Corner wall Finish
Corner wall siding (and interior finish) 8 sheets@4 x 8' 5/8" T1-11 plywood siding
Horizontal trim (8, exterior only) 4@8' 1x6
Vertical trim (12, including interior) 12 @ 8' 1x4
End of wall trim (4) 4@8' 1x6
TOp cap trim Field measure 1x lumber
Roof Framing
Roof beam members (8) 8@9' 2x6
Roof beam spacers (4) 4@9' 1x6
Battens (4) 4@9' 1 x 4 composite decking
material
Blocking (6) 3@8' 2x6
Cross beams (9) 3 @ 12' 2x6
Screens
Sills (5) 2@8' 2x4
1 @4'
Screen molding (58, cut to fit) 58 @ 8' 3/4" Quarter-round
Screen (15, cut to fit) 4'-wide roll x 55' long
Adhesive rubber weatherstripping 225 linear feet
Roof Panels (3) 3 @ 4 x 8' Multi-wall polycarbonate
panel
Screen Doors 2 doors, or pre-hung unit;
field measure124 • GA ZE BO & A RBOR PROJ ECTS
Description (NO. finished pieces) Quantity/Size Material Hardware & Fasteners 5/8” X 8” J-bolts 8, with washers & nuts 16d galvanized common nails 8d galvanized finish nails 8d galvanized box nails 6d galvanized box nails 6d galvanized finish nails 16d galvanized finish nails or 31,.2” deck screws Heavy-duty staples 2” deck screws Post bases 4, with recommended Simpson CPS4 or similar anchoring hardware approved base with standoff Post-to-beam T connectors 8, with recommended Simpson OT or similar anchoring hardware approved connector Beam-to-beam angles 4, with recommended Simpson HL3SPC or similar anchoring hardware approved connector Post-to-beam L connectors 6, with recommended Simpson OL or similar anchoring hardware approved connector Roof beam to wall beam connectors 8, with recommended fasteners Simpson H2.S or similar approved connector Aluminum tape Glazing tape or adhesive sealant
SUI/IOI1er/toUSe • 125
SIMPSONOT SIMPSONOL
BOTH SIDES BOTH SIDES
4XB FRONT WALL
TOP BEAM
4X4 WOOD POST
SCREEN I Summerhouse
Front Elevation
SIMPSON Ol WI
SIMPSON OT SIMPSON HL3SPC
BOTH SIDES ANGLE INSIDE
4X6 INTERMEDIATE
BEAM
SCREEN
2X4 WOOD SILL WI
3/4" QUARTER-
ROUND SCREEN
TRIM,TYP.
SCREEN
BAnENSI Summerhouse POLYCARBONATE PANELS Rear Elevation 2X6 BLOCKING
4X6 REAR WALL BEAM
1X6 WOOD TRIM
~-- lX4WOODTRtM
S/B"T1-11SIOINGOR
SIMILAR
SCREEN DOORS 1X6 WOOD TRIM126 • GAZEBO &A RBOR PROJECTS
I Summerhouse
Roof Beam Template
REHVE DETAIL ----..J
3314"
COMPOSITE WOOD BEAM WI
ooUBLE BIRD'S MOUTH
4xa FRONT WALL --1r--I-./ CUTS @BEARING POINTS
TOP BEAM
4X4 WOOD POST -+-~~-:::-:: ___..!~~~
RE, EAVE DETAILSIMPSON OL WI SIMPSON —1r—I---- HLJSPC ANGLE INSIDE 1X6 WOOD TRIM
11---- 1X4WooDTRIM4X6SIDEWALLBEAM -+-+—” ~— 51aT111 SIDING OR ~ “:li ~ SIMILAR ’” l’s ” ~ "" ~ D ~ t;; l’s ----------HI--- 2X4WOODSILLWI ~ 314” QUARTER-ROUND "" SCREEN TRIM, TYP.
''""
___i:=:Is:==.J~~======~~~~=========~L ___C~O:N~CR:ET~ESLABEDGE
1X6 WOOD TRIM - EXTEND OVER
1"
I Summerhouse
Side Elevation
12'-B" CONCRETE SLAB
134" 1314"
4'·11 /2" 4'-11 12"
~
~
--- - -- ---- ----- ----
!~ POST BASE TYP. (SIMPSON
I, CPS4 STANDOFF BASE)
I,
~ I,
~CONCRETE SLAB-ON-GRADE
/
I, OVER CRUSHED GRAVEL BASE &
VAPOR BARRIER AS APPROPRIATE
, CONCRETE SLAB
~, CONTROLJOINT
S
I, EMBEDDED !-BOLT LOCATIONS TYP.
,:.
I, 2X4 STUD WALL LOCATION
~,
"" ----- ------- -------
~
1314"
2'·0'
I Summerhouse
Foundation Plan
2'{)"
1314"
S UI/IOI1er/toUS e • 127
12'~ B" CONCRETE SLAB
r FRONTWALL 1
It
ex
4X6 BEAM BETWEEN POSTS ABOVE
(3TOTAL)
4X4 POSTTliROUGH TO
IX! IX! I><
~ ROOF BEAM ABOVE
s 4X6 SIDE WALL BEAM ABOVE~
CONTINUOUS TO REAR & FRONT WALLS
..S
.,-
~
;i
CONCRETE FLOOR
to
~ / SLAB BELOW
CONCRETE SLAB
- ~
~
v
z
8
~
0 0
CONTROLJOINT
~ p.
I'-- SINGLE 2X4 TOP & aoTIOM PLAIT
~ [ ) - - 2X4 STUD WALL r 4X6 REAR WALL BEAM ABOVE~
CONTINUOUS TO SIDE WALL BEAMS
P.
0
S
;;;
/ .... 0 00 00 0 OOX OOX 0 00
00 0 "
1\
CORNER WALLS
'J-' DOOR
~ CORNER WALL
3'·7" S''';" (COORD. WI DOOR) N "
I Summerhouse
wall Framing Plan
ll''()" (4XB WOOD BEAM ABOVE)
~-RlFAM\ABOVE· - - - - '
LOCATE ON POSTS
(4TOTAL)
ROUND SCREEN BEAMSABOVE
STOPS
~~1f'""""--'lXWOODTRIM
.....---2X4 STUD WALL
..4~-PLY'WO<)D OR SIDING
VENTILATE WALL CAVITY
BEAM CORNERS AS REQUIRED
(4 TOTAL)
I Summerhouse Floor and Roof Framing Plan128 • GA ZE BO & A RBOR PROJ EC T S
33/4' 33/4" 33/4" 33/4'
]'-93/4" ]'-93/4" 3'-93/4"
11 p::
11
p:
11
p:
11 ::I
~ BUILT-UP ROOF BEAMS ....J ~ BUILT-UP ROOF BEAMS ..../
II V- 1X4 COMPOSITE
DECKING BADEN
J
fl
MULTI-WALL POLYCARBONATE
4'XB' PANELS (THICKNESS
APPROPRIATE FOR
DESIGN LOADS)
(j
L --'
I Summerhouse
Roof Plan
1XCOMPOSITE
DECKING BADEN
GLAZING TAPE OR ADHESIVE
SEALANT ALL SIDES
1--__....s:~----- SIMPSON H25 MULTI-WALL
__---
---&-L..-l FRAMING CONNECTOR POlYCARBONATE ROOF PANEL
1X6 ROOF BEAM SPACER
-=~ 4XB FRONT WALL TOP BEAM - SETTOP HIGHER
BY ROOF PANEL +
1_ _- 2X6 CROSS BEAM GLAZING TAPE THICKNESS2X6 ROOF BLOCKING 2X6 ROOF BEAM MEMBER
WEATHERSTRIPPING -==-…;~1H1 3/4’ WOOD QUARTER- - _ / ROUND STOPS I Summerhouse SCREEN STAPLED _ _-11’1 Roof Beam Detail TO QUARTER- ROUND STOPS SIMPSON H2.S FRAMING CONNECTOR 2X6 ROOF BLOCKING ” - - - 4X6 PERIMETER BEAM 1XWOOD TRIM (OPTIONAL) 1X6 WOOD TRIM (OPTIONAL)
SIDING
2X4 WOOD STUD WALL
I Summerhouse
Eave Details
SHllIllleriwuse • 129I How to Build the Summerhouse step A: Build the Foundation 7. Raise th e side walls and anc hor th em to the J-bolts. Make sure all of th e wa lls are plumb. Fasten See page 216 for step-by-step in struction s on pouring th e side wa ll s to the rear walls, driving 16d nail s and finishing a concrete slab foundation. The fin- through the e nd studs. ished slab should measure 96” X 152”, as shown in the FOUNDATION PLAN on page 127. Set e ight 5Al” x 8” J-bolts in th e co ncre te, follow- Step C: Set the Posts in g th e layo ut shown in th e FOUNDATION ]. Cut four pieces of sAl”-diameter threaded rod, PLA N; these are for anchoring th e bottom plates of foll owing the spec ifications of th e post base ma nu - th e corn er walls. The bolts shou ld exte nd 2 1;2” from fac turer. th e slab. Also create a co ntrol joint down the center 2. At th e bottom end of each post, drill a 3/4”- of the slab , as shown in th e WALL FRAMING diameter x ] 0” hol e in the ce nter of th e post. Clean PLAN , on page 128. dust and debris out of the holes , then fi ll eac h hol e NOTE: If you live in an area that gets heavy ha lf..¥ay with th e base manufacturer’s reco mmended rainfall, you might want to slightly slope the slab epoxy. inse rt a piece of threaded rod into eac h hol e, toward one side for drainage. and let the epoxy cure. 3. Attach a post base standoff to eac h post, usin g Step B: Frame the Corner th e reco mm ended fasteners. 4. Mark the ce nters of the four front wal l posts, Wans followin g th e FOUNDATIO PLAN. At eac h Unless yo u plan to build custom sc ree n doors, it’s best point, drill a 3/4 “-diameter hol e into the slab, foll ow- to buy the doors (or a pre-hung door unit) and have ing th e manufac turer’s specifications for anc hor th em on hand before framin g th e wa lls-it’s the only depth. way to ensure your door opening wi ll be the right size. 5. C lea n the anc hor hol es and fill the m halfway You ca n frame the four co rn er wa lls on th e with epoxy. Set th e posts by inserting th e threaded gro und, then raise them onto th e foundation, using rods into the foundation holes . Temporarily brace standard wall framing tec hniqu es. th e posts so th ey are perfectly plumb, th en let th e 1. Mark the rough open in g for th e sc ree n doors so epoxy cure. it is ce ntered along the rear edge of th e foundation; 6. M ark one of th e posts at 10]” above th e slab. see WALL FRAMING PLAN. Size the opening Use a leve l or maso n’s line to transfe r th e he ight acco rding to the door manufac turer’s instructions , mark to th e re maining posts, then cut th e posts but be sure to account for Ix lumber trim at eac h (see page 34) . side; see FLOOR & ROOF FRAM ING PLAN on page 128. Step D: Sheath the Corner 2. Measure from yo ur layo ut marks to determine the le ngths of the bottom and top plates of th e rea r wans wal l frames. Cut two 2 x 4 bottom plates and two top You ca n cover the outsides of th e corner wal ls with plates using this dim ension. any outdoor siding material. However, if yo u use 3. For th e side wa lls, cut two bottom plates and tradition a l siding, yo u must first sheath th e wa ll s two top plates at 40”. with 1;2” or thi c ke r p lywood to give th e wa ll frames 4. Cut 22 studs at 77”. rigidity. The projec t as shown here ca lls for 5/S” 5. Mark th e stud layouts onto th e plates follow- TI-I] pl ywoo d s iding, which takes ca re of th e ing th e WALL FRAMING PLA N. Mark th e J-bolt structura l support a nd siding at once. loca ti ons onto th e bottom plates, th e n drill holes I . For eac h wa ll , cut the siding to width so it’s for th e bolts . flush to the framing; cut it to length so it’s flush with 6. Assemb le the wa ll s with 16d ga lvanized com- the top of the top plate and extends ] ” below the top mon nail s. Rai se each rear wa ll , setting the bottom of the foundation slab. Overlap the siding where it plate over the J-bolts. Position th e wa ll so it’s flush meets at th e outside corners. with th e foundation, and secure th e plates to the 2. Fasten the siding to the wall studs and plates J-bolts with washers and nuts. with 8d ga lva ni zed finish nails; nail every 6” along th e
130 • GAZEBO &AI1BO R PHOJ EGTS
Build the concrete slab foundation following the requirements Secure the wall frames to the foundation J-bolts, then of the local building code. tack the walls together along the full lengths of the end studs.
Set the posts into the slab with anchoring rods-brace Install the plywood siding so it’s flush to the framing and them so they are perfectly plumb. overhangs the foundation by 1”.
SUI/IOI1er/toUSe • 131
perimeter and evelY 12" in the field of the sheet. are in place. Position and fasten the connector fol-
3. Sheath the insides of the walls with the lowing th e manufacturer's specifications.
same plywood siding or another exterior-grad e 4. Cut th e rea r wall 4 x 6 bea m to le ngth at 145".
wall finish. Position the beam- crown-up- between the ends of
th e side wall bea ms so all bea ms are flush at th e top.
step E: Install the Wall Beams Anchor th e beams together using beam angles and
NOTE: You will need at least one helper for this step. th e manufac turer's reco mm end ed hardware, th en
1. Cut the 4 X 6 side wall beams to length at nail the rear beam to the rear walls.
1
90 ;2". 5. Cut th e 4 x 8 front wall top bea m to length at
2. Making sure the crowned edge is up, set eac h 156". Set th e bea m on top of the posts so it over-
beam on top of th e side corner wall so its front end is hangs th e end posts by 2" and is flush to the faces of
butted against the corner post and its back end is all of the posts; see FRONT ELEVATION , on page
flush with th e rear wall; see SIDE ELEVATION, on 126. Anchor the beam with pairs of post-beam con-
page 127. Fasten th e beam to the wall's top plate nectors at eac h post.
with 16d nails. 6. Cut th e three 4 X 6 front wall intermediate
3. Anchor the beam to th e corner using a post- beams to fit snugly between th e posts. Position th e
beam connector on the outside only- you will install beams so they are aligned with the side wall beams
a connector on the inside after th e front wall beams and anchor the m to the posts with pairs of post-bea m
Side wall beam
to corner post
connection.
Side wall beams
to rear wall beam
connection.
Front wall
beam to post
connections.132 • GAZEBO &A RBOR PROJECTS
co nnec tors. On the inside of th e Summ e rh o use, use angle con nectors to anc hor the two oute r inte nn edi - ate wa ll bea ms to the side wa ll bea ms.
steR F: Build & Install the Roof Beams T he roof bea ms a re built-up bea ms made with two 2 x 6s sa ndw iched over a I x 6 s pace r, whi c h pro- trud es a bove th e top s of th e 2 x 6s to acco mm odate th e roof pa ne ls; see ROO F BEA M D ETA IL, o n page 129. I . C ut eight 2 x 6s and four I x 6s to le ngth at lOS”. 2. Selec t a straight 2 x 6 to use for th e pa tte rn bea m me mbe r. Ma ke the bird’s mouth c uts fo ll owin g th e ROOF BEAM TEM PLATE, on page 127 (see pages 222 to 223 for h elp with marking a nd c utting bird’s mouth s). 3. Set th e pa tte rn on th e front and rea r wall bea ms to tes t-fit th e c uts. Ma ke a ny necessa ry adju stm e nts so th e bird’s mouth s fit flu sh aga inst the bea ms. 4 . Use the pattern to mark th e bird’s mouth s on th e re maining bea m me mbe rs and th e I x 6s, th e n construct built-up beams with adhesive and nails (INSET). Secure the roof beams to the wall beams with framing ma ke th e c uts. Us ing co nstruc ti on ad hes ive and connectors fastened with nails. nai ls, co nstruc t th e bea m so the I x 6 exte nds fa r e nough to accomm odate th e roof pa ne ls, plus a little extra space for glazing tape or adhes ive seala nt (see Ste p] , on page 135). Na il th e pi eces togeth e r from both sides using pairs of 16d ga lva ni zed co mm on nails dri ve n eve ry 12”. Drive th e nail s at a sli ght a ngle so th ey wo n’t protrude through the o ppos ite side . 5. Ma rk th e layout of th e roof bea ms o nto th e front a nd rea r wa ll bea ms, foll owing the FLOO R AN D ROOF F RA M ING PLAN . 6. Set th e roof beam s on their layo ut ma rks and faste n th em to th e wall beams with two 16d nai ls on eac h side. The n rein fo rce eac h joint with a fra ming co nn ec tor.
Step G: Trim the Corner Walls T he four corner wall s have I x 6 trim alo ng the top a nd bottom a nd I x 4 trim at th e s ides. The wa ll e nds are ca pped with c ustom-c ut 1 x 6 trim . Fin all y, a 1x ca p is added to fini sh off th e wa lls a lo ng th e bea ms. See SIDE E LEVATION, REA R ELEVA- T IO 1, a nd EAVE D ETA ILS. Installing trim on the inte ri or wa ll as shown is optional. I. Cap the ends of th e wa ll s by ripping I x 6 trim to width so it covers the edges of th e siding. Insta ll th e trim flu sh to the top and bottom edges of th e sid- ing, usin g Sd ga lvani zed box nail s. 2. O n th e side wa lls, c ut 1 x 6 trim boa rd s to spa n With the exception of the top cap trim , in stall the trim so fro m the outside corners of the rea r wa lls a nd overla p all of the joints are flush.
Sllll1llLerhome • 133
the end-wall trim. Install the trim flush with the top NOTE: All of the screens are built on-site, with
and bottom edges of the siding. each custom-fit to its opening. The simple proce-
3. On the rear walls, cut and install 1 x 6 trim dure is the same for every screen.
boards starting at the door opening and overlapping 3. On th e inside pe rim e ter of each screened
the side-wall trim. opening, draw a referenc e lin e ] 5/S" from th e out-
4. Cut and install I x 4 trim to fit vertically side of the wall. Miter-cut 3/4 " quarter-round
between the I x 6s. Overlap the 1 x 4s at the outside molding to fit around the opening, fitting the
corners, as shown in the FLOOR AND ROOF pieces into the opening as you work. Cut two
FRAMING PLAN. frames of molding for each opening; see EAVE
5. Rip Ix boards to cap the tops of the walls; see DETAILS.
EAVE DETAILS. Size the cap trim to overhang the] x 6s 4. Install th e outside fram e of molding so its flat
as much as you like. Install the cap trim with 6d box nails. edge is on the reference lines, using 6d finish nails
driven through pilot holes.
5. Using a flexible screen material of your choice,
Step H: Build the Screens staple the screen to the flat side of the molding,
1. Cut 2 x 4 sills to fit snugly between pairs of kee ping th e screen taught and smooth. Trim excess
posts along th e front and side walls (on th e side screen after completing the stapling.
walls, the sills span between the corner post and 6. Cover the edge of the screen with adhesive
framed corner wall). rubber weatherstripping, positioned so it will be hid-
2. Install the sills so their top faces are 28" above den behind the molding. Install the second frame of
the slab. Fasten the sills to the posts and side walls molding so it's tight aga inst the weatherstripping, fur-
with ]6d finish nails or 3" deck screws. th er securing th e edges of th e screen.
Secure the screen
with staples and
weatherstripping,
sandwiched between
quarter-round molding.
Staple the
screen to
the inside
of the trim134 • GA ZE BO &ARBOR PROJ ECTS
step I: Install the Roof step J: Install the Roof Panels Blocking & Cross Beams & Doors 1. Cut 2 x 6 blocking to fit snugly between th e The roof framing is sized to accept uncut 4 X 8-ft. roof bea ms at the outer edges of th e wall beams sheets of multi-wall polycarbonate pane ls. Make sure (s ix pieces total); see EAVE DETAILS. the panels yo u use are rated for the spans as shown, 2. Rip th e bottom edge of each piece of blocking or install additional blocking or cross beams as need- at 14° so th e top edge is flush with the tops of th e ed. The battens that hold down th e roof panels are roof beam 2 x 6s, as shown in the EAVE DETAILS. made of composite decking material to prevent rot. Install the blocking between the roof beams with 16d 1. Cut four 1 X 4 battens to length at 108”. common nails. 2. Apply aluminum tape to enclose th e e nds of 3. Cut nine 2 X 6 cross beams to fit between the the roof panel cells, following the manufacturel!s roof beams, as shown in th e FLOOR AND ROOF directions. FRAMING PLAN. Mark the cross bea m layout onto 3. Apply glazing tape or adhesive sealant to the the roof beams, following the PLAN. edges of each roof panel or the roof framing, accord- 4. Position th e cross beams at an angle so th ey are ing to th e manufacturer’s directions. Also add tape or perpendicular to the roof beams and their top edges sealant along the top edges of the cross beams and are flush with th e roof beam 2 x 6s. Fasten th e cross roof blocking. beams with 16d nails. 4. Set each panel on the roof beams so its front edge is flush with the front of the blocking, as shown in the EAVE DETAILS. 5. With the panels in place, center the battens over the beams, drill pilot holes, and fasten them to th e beams with 2” deck screws. Make sure th e pan- els are held firmly by the battens. 6. Install the screen doors following the manufac- turer’s instructions.
Fasten the blocking and cross beams to the roof beams Center the battens over the roof beams to provide equal with angled nails or screws. overlap on adjacent roof panels.
SUI/IOI1er/toUSe • 135
Inspired by custom deck structures like this one,
our Corner Lounge (page 138) helps define an outdoorI Corner Lounge activity space whi le complementing a natural setting.
deck. You can add as much or as little lattice screen-
D
ecks and patios are the most-used outdoor
rooms. Extending your home into the open ing as you like for just the right amount of shade or
air, they're the best places for all kinds of privacy. An optional roof design lets you extend the
activities- parties, evening m eals, afternoon naps, roof over an II X II-ft. area- petfect for adding a
and sunbathing. The Corner Lounge on page 138 tabl e that takes advantage of the bench seating.
is designed to make the most of all the ways you You can build this project on most traditional
us e your deck or patio. decks and concrete patios. The location will dictate
The Corner Lounge combines the sheltering and how you install the posts; steps are given here for
light-filtering qualities of an arbor roof with the con- elevated wood decks, as well as ground-level decks
venience of built-in bench seating. And it fits into th e and concrete patios. You can also locate this structure
corner, so it won't take up a lot of floor space on your anywhere in your garden by setting the posts in
concrete (see page 220).136 • GAZEBO &ARBOR PROJECTS
An arbor-style roof may be just the beginning, providing the framework for a burst of seasonal color and shade for those seated below.
Corner Lounge • 137I Material List Description (NO. finished pieces) Quantity/Size Material Posts Full-height posts* (7) 7 @ field measure *Add 1 post for optional full roof 4x4 Seat support post (1) 1 @ field measure 4x 4 Post blocking 2 blocks for each post; 2 x pressure-treated lumber; field measure size to match existing deck joists Roof Frame Beams (8) 8@ 12’ 2x8 Roof slats (20) 10@ 8’ 2x2 *optional Full Roof Beams (6) 6@ 12’ 2x8 Roof slats (12 long, 12 short) 18@ 8’ 2x2 Seats Seat supports (6 sides, 6 ends) 5@8’ 2x6 Seat slats (27) 9@8’ 2x6 Lattice Screens Lattice slats Field measure 1 x 1 (3/4” X 3/4” actual dimensions) Hardware & Fasteners 16d galvanized common nails or 31;2” deck screws Post bases (for concrete patios 8, with recommended anchors Simpson AB44 or similar or ground-level decks only) and fasteners approved base 3/8” X 7” galvanized carriage bolts 16, with washers and nuts 1/4” x 61/4” galvanized carriage bolts 20, with washers and nuts 2V2” deck screws 3V2” deck screws 3V2” galvanized lag screws 22, with washers Galvanized metal angle 1 4d galvanized finish nails waterproof glue 6d galvanized finish nails
138 • GA ZE BO & A RBOR PROJ ECTS
r~OTCH BEAMS 3-518"
0
{ POST ENDWI 45 BEVEL
ALL SIDES, TYP. DEEP X1-1/2" WIDE@
BEAM OVERLAPS
11 '-11 /2"
,
" .1 /
~
::0
I' -'"
1,.,
. . .. .. . . rtf ~~ "c
I'
I-
~ ~
~
~ T-~ ~
1'-3"
1/
1'-8"
lXl LATIICESCREEN ~
S ~
'-:'
"' ~
"-
r 2X6 SEAT SLATS
\~~
"- ,I
..- "_I' ~
2X6 SEAT
~ "f
SUPPORT '-
"
" 4'-6"I Corner Lounge Elevation
7'-91 /2"
5'-5 l i t 2'-4"
+D 1
~
D D
+
4X4 FULLHI
POST,TYP. :r
N
D D D
I'
4X4 SEAT SUPPORT POST
I Corner Lounge
Post Layout Plan
D D_+-_"I<-
"
Corne r Lounge • 139
EO.
I Corner Lounge
2'TYP, EQ.
Roof Slat Plan
it 11 it
===='= '= "
61/2'
.'
'"
111/2' B 114' 8 1/4' 11 1/2'
'1<--
1 1 1 'L 1 1 J " -
I = F II Ig
I = F
'"
~ ====F F
I = I
I = I
s
'I'
~
I<--
2X2 ROOF SLATS
" ~
S
~
~
=== F F ;::
IIII ~
'"
II II
~
S
~
===='= '=
2X8ROOF /"il IIII -
"
~
BEAMS BELOW
S
~
s
IIII " '"
===='= '= "
l 3'-7'
L 4X4 POST
IX I HORIZONTAL
4
2"TYP.
1'·9'
I Corner Lounge Screen Layout
11'-0'
J'.S3/4' 31 /2' 4'·11 '
3112' 1'-6' J'.53/4'
~~ ~ ~
,1/,:n'0 "fl" ,1/,:n'~ "/1" ~ '0,1/1"
S
~ S
)
')
"
'<' S
-
~
S
M
s-
IIII II
II I
IIII 2X2Tl1ElLlS ---1/
SLATS III Corner Lounge ~ Alternate Roof Frame IIII II II
" - EXTEND 2X2TRElliS
S
SLATS TYPICAL
-
161 ! 161 1 161 S
M
4FUll ~
Bun SLATS / S
ADDED4X
TOGETHER HERE S -
HEIGHT POST
;<:
2X8 BEAMS /140 • GAZEBO &A RBOR PROJECTS
11 '-1 1/2'
~/~
1'-6"
T.fJ" w w 1'~1n'
11/2' .~ '~"/2' ~ '~1 112'
S
;<:
S
;=::3
-> S
\
! S
-
,=::3
,=::3 ~ I Corner Lounge
r-; Roof Framing Plan
l 2X8 ROOF BEAM, -
~
NOTCHED AT
OVERLAPS
S
."
"
~
5'-2' 2'·01/2"
METAL ANGLE
-'
~
"-9"
5EAT FRAME INDICATED
2X6 SEAT
WITH DASHED LINES
SUPPORTS
r - 2X6 SLAT RIPPED r - 2X6SLAT
TO FIT REMAINING NOTCHED AROUND
SPACE POSTSL .1 0 I I I I V- 2X6 SLAT RIPPED TO FIT REMAINING
r II I-
.............
If
II-
SPACE
2X6 SEAT SLATS r-- 4X4 SLAT SUPPORT 2'·1 '
POST BELOW
SPACED 3116" APART
WITH 114 OVERLAP ON
EITHER SIDE OF SEAT
FRAME
I Corner Lounge
~ Seat Framing Plan
I Corner Lounge ""'-
Seat Slat Layout 2X6 SLAT RIPPED
, TO FIT REMAINING
SPACE
u L
Corner Lounge • 14 1I How to Build the Corner Lounge The proper meth od for installing th e posts depends dimensions (th ey often slightly vaty), th en mark th e on yo ur situati on: cutout onto the decki ng boards. 3. Drill a starter hole inside each cu tout marking, Elevated wood deck: complete th e following steps, th en use a jigsaw with a down-c uttin g blade to make but skip th e Alternati ve Post Installati on. the c uto uts .
Concrete patio or ground-level deck: skip ahead to Step B: Install the Post
the Altern ative Post Installation . Blocking
I. Undern eath the deck, meas ure between the
On the ground: follow the procedure on pages 220 to neighboring joists at eac h post locati on . C ut two
buty the posts in concrete. NOTE: This requires pieces of blocking to fit in betwee n th e joists at eac h
longer posts to compensate for the buried portion. locati on. Use press ure-treated lumber th at is the
same size as th e joists (e .g. 2 x 10, 2 x 12, etc.) .
step A: Cut the Post Holes 2. Get so meo ne to he lp with thi s step, so one per-
so n is on top of the dec k and one is below. H ave the
I . Layout th e post locations on yo ur deck, follow-
top person in sert a short length of post (suc h as th e
ing th e POST LAYOUT PLAN, on page J 39.
seat support post) into a post cutout, extending it
NOTE: If a series of posts falls over a deck joist,
dow n so it's eve n with the bottoms of the joists . The
move the layout just enough so that the posts will
person below sandwic hes th e post with blocking.
be flush against the side of the joist. You can
While th e top perso n uses a level to hold the post
either move the entire structure or move only the perfectly plumb, the botto m perso n marks th e out-
affected posts. If you choose the latter, you can sides of th e bloc king onto th e neighboring joists.
cut-to-fit the affected pieces to complete the 3. Re move the pos t, th en fas ten th e bloc king to
project-just be aware that the plan measure- the joists with 16d co mm on nails. Drive three nails or
ments might not always apply. drill three screws th rough th e joists and into th e ends
2. Mark a cuto ut hole for the pos ts on to the deck- of th e bloc kin g, makin g sure th e bloc king stays on
ing boa rd s. Meas ure eac h post to find its exac t th e marks made in ste p 2.Drill a starter hole inside the post marks, then make the Hold the blocks on their layout marks, and fasten them to cutout with a jig saw. the joists at both ends.
142 • GAZEBO &ARBOR PROJECTS
Step C: Cut & Install the Posts 1. For the full-height posts: Measure from the C1. ~ . bottom of the blocking to the top of the deck surface. Add that dimension to 911/4” to find the total post length. For the seat support post: Add 161;2” to the deck-depth measurement above to find the total length. Cut the posts to length (see page 34). 2. If desired, bevel the top ends of the full-height posts at 45°, as shown in the ELEVATION (page 139). 3. Measure from the top end of each full-height post and make a reference mark at 91 V4”. On the seat support post, make a reference line 161;2” from the top end. 4. With one person on top of the deck and one below, set each post into its hole so the reference line is aligned with the deck surface. Use a level to hold the post perfectly plumb, then have the person below clamp the post to the blocking. 5. Drill pilot holes and anchor each post to the blocking with two 3;8 ” X 7” carriage bolts.
Alternative Post Installation: Use a clamp to help hold the post at the proper height.
Setting Posts on a Concrete Anchor the post with carriage bolts.
Patio or a Ground-level Deck
1. Layout the post locations on your patio or
deck; follow the POST LAYOUT PLAN.
2. For concrete patios: Use a hammer drill to drill
a hole for each post base anchor. Refer to the base
manufacturer for the size and type of anchor to use.
Secure the anchor to the concrete, then bolt the
post base to the anchor, using the recommended
hardware.
For decks: Fasten a post base to the deck at
each post location. using the fasteners recom·
mended by the base manufacturer.
3. Cut the full-height posts to length so that they
will stand 91lA” above the patio or deck surface
when they’re installed on the post bases. Cut the seat
support post so it will stand 161;2” above the surface
when installed on its base.
4. If desired , bevel the top ends of the full-height
posts at 45 °, as shown in the ELEVATION.
S. Set each post on its base and support it with
temporary braces so that it stands perfectly plumb.
Fasten the post to the base using the fasteners rec-
ommended by the base manufacturer.
Alternative Post Installation: Use post bases with metal
standoff plates to protect the posts from surface moisture.
C orner Lounge • 143
step 0: Cut & Shape the step E: Install the Roof Beams
Roof Beams 1. Mark the sides of the posts that will receive the
1. Cut the eight 2 x 8 beams to length at 133 1/2" . beams 11 V4" down from the top ends.
2. To shape the beam ends, make a mark 21;2" 2. Starting with the beams with the top-down
down from the top corner at each end. Make another notches, sandwich one set of posts so the notches
mark IS" in from the bottom corner. Draw a line con- clear the posts on both sides and the bottom edges of
necting the two marks. Cut along this diagonal line. the beams are on the reference marks made in the
3. At the corner, the four sets of beam pairs inter- last step. Clamp the beams in place.
sect with half-lap joints. To mark the notches for the 3. Drill two pilot holes for 1/4" X 6 1/2" carriage
half-lap joints, measure the depth (width ) and thick- bolts through both beams and the post. On the less-
ness of the beams. The width of the notches must visible bea m sides, countersink the holes just enough
match the thickness of the beams; the length of the to completely recess the washer and nut. Fasten the
notches must equal half the depth of the beams. beams to the posts with the carriage bolts.
Mark the layout of the notches, following the ROOF 4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 to install the other set of
FRAMING PLAN (page 141). parallel beams.
4. Cut the notches. 5. Install the perpendicular beams , fitting the
TIP: You can save time by clamping two or notches together so all the beams are Rush at the
more beams together and cutting them at once. top and bottom edges. Clamp the beams as before,
Using a circular saw or handsaw, cut the outside then drill pilot holes and attach th e beams with
edges of the notches first. Then, make a series of carriage bolts.
interior cuts at 1A!" intervals. Use a chisel to remove TIP: Drill the pilot holes from the outsides of
the waste and smooth the seats of the notches. the beam intersections, so you have enough room
5. Test-fit the notches on the ground and make for the drill bit.
any necessary adjustments for a good fit.Test-fit the beam joints and make adjustments before installing the beams.
144 • GAZEBO &ARBOR PROJECTS
step F: Install the Roof Slats 1. Cut the 20 roof slats to length at 43” . 2. Mark the slat layout on th e tops of th e roof beams; follo w the ROO F SLAT PLAN on page 140. 3. Position eac h slat on its layo ut mark so it over- hangs the outer roof beams by 6” on both sides. Fasten th e slat to each intersecting beam with 21;2” dec k screws dri ve n through pilot hol es .
Step G: Build the Seat Frames I. Look at the SEAT FRAMING PLAN (page 141 ) to understand th e seat fram e layout. There are three, 4-sided seat frames. You ca n build th em on a workbench, then install them- just make sure they fit snugly between th e sets of posts. 2. Meas ure between th e posts for eac h seat frame. Cut the side seat supports to length so they extend from post to post. Cut th e end seat supports to length so they fit between the side supports. 3. Layout th e a rch ed c utout on one side sup- port; follo w the ELEVATION. Make the cut with a jigsaw or bandsaw, then sand the arch smooth. counterbores help hide the bolt hardware. Locate them in the least conspicuous areas.
Drill pilot holes for the roof slats, and fasten them to the roof beams with 21;2” deck screws.
Corner Lounge • 145
Use the support as a pattern to mark the three step J: Build the Lattice
remaining long seat supports, then make the cuts.
4. Assemble the seat frames with 3 iI.2" deck
Screens
screws drilled through th e side supports and into th e How you us e the lattice screening is your choice.
end supports. Make sure the pieces are flush along You ma y want screens only on th e ends of the
their top edges. seats, as shown in the plan drawings, or you might
5. Measure up from the deck sUlface, and mark the cover th e entire backside of th e project. To avoid
inside faces of the posts at 1611.2". Install the seat frames blocking your view be hind your deck, yo u can
as shown in the SEAT FRAMING PLAN, so their top build short screens that match the deck rail
edges are on the reference marks; fasten through the end height. The basic proc ed ure for building screens
seat supports and into the posts with two 3 iI.2" lag is shown he re .
screws at each location. Using a metal angle and screws, I. Construct a jig for assembling the lattice
fasten the frame at the outside corner of the lounge. screens: On a sheet of plywood, fasten two straight
2 x 4s in an "L" pattern , using a framing square to set
Step H: Add the Seat Slats the pieces at an exact 90° angle.
2. Cut several 2 x 6 spacers from 3/4" plywood.
I. Measure between the outside faces of th e seat 3. Cut the lattice pieces to length from 3/4" X 3/4"
frames to find the lengths of th e seat slats. You can (actual dimensions ) lumber; follow the SCREEN
either make the slats flush to the frames or overhang LAYOUT on page 140.
the frames by 1/4" on either side. 4. Using th e jig and spacers, assemble the screens
2. Notch th e first slat to fit around th e posts according to the drawing, or create your own pattern.
where the left side frame meets the corner frame ; see Fasten the pieces with waterproof wood glue and 4d
SEAT SLAT LAYOUT (page 141 ). Drill pilot holes, finish nails.
and then fasten the slat to the seat frames with pairs 5. To install the screens, fasten a lattice backer
of 2 iI.2" deck screws. strip to each post, as shown in the plan detail of the
3. Cut and install the remaining slats, gapping SCREEN LAYOUT, using 6d finish nails. Finally,
them at 3/16". Rip the last slat in each section to fit install th e screens against the backer strips.
the re maining space.
A flexible wood strip helps
you make a perfect curve for
the long side seat supports.146 • GAZEBO &ARBOR PROJECTS
Notch the slats
as needed to fit
snugly around the
posts. Gap the slats
by 4116 ".construct a right-angle jig for assembling the lattice screens. A right-angle jig and plywood spacers help you keep the lattice screens square as you work.
Corne r Lounge • 147
~- ' ~
•.\. • ;:.'JJ:
. ,
, }~ ,.
. .
With its similar structure to our Classic gazebo (page 1521.
this example shows how simple embellishments, like decorative
brackets and post trim, can add a sense of grandeur.I Classic 8-Sided Gazebo T he traditional octagonal gaze bo has tim e less tern. Look up from the inside and yo u see an attrac - elega nce . Viewed from a ny a ngle , its eight tive panel ceiling of 1 x 6 cedar boards. The lattice symm e tri cal si des give it an eye-catching, panels help enc lose th e interior whil e giving th e sculptural qu a lity- a perfec t ce nt erpiece for th e entire structure a light, aily feel. If yo u prefe r more landsca pe. In side th e gazeb o, a n e levated floor ornamentation, you can easily omit th e upper lattice add s a sense of loftiness, whil e open-air sides panels and add decorative brac kets or sc rollwork. make it a grea t spot for esca ping th e sun and Not surpri singly, this project involves lots of catching summ er breezes. angled c uts . If you’ve been looking for a reason to buy The gazebo on page 152 measure s nin e feet a co mpound mite r saw, thi s is yo ur ti c ket. It makes ac ross and has ceda r decking laid in an oc tago na l pat- the project much, much easier.
148 • GAZEBO &ARBOR PROJ ECTS
Modest in scale, this charming gazebo demonstrates the appeal of a simpler design, enhanced by leafy vines rather than architectural ornament.
Classic 8-Sided Ga zebo • 149I Material List Description (No. finished pieces) Quantity/Size Material Foundation Concrete field measure 3,000 PSI concrete Concrete tube forms 1 @ 16”-dia., 8 @ 12”-dia. Compactible gravel 2.5 cu . ft. Framing Posts (8) 8 @ 10’ 6 x 6 cedar Perimeter beams (16) 8 @ 8’ 2 x 6 pressure-treated Double joists (8) 8 @ 10’ 2 x 6 pressure-treated Angled joists (16) 8 @ 8’ 2 x 6 pressure-treated Roof beams (8) 4 @ 10’ 6 x 8 cedar Hip rafters (8) 8 @ 8’ 2 x 8 cedar Intermediate rafters (16) 8 @ 10’ 2 x 6 cedar Purlins (8) 2 @ 8’ 2 x 8 cedar Collar ties (4) 4 @ 10’ 2 x 6 cedar Rafter hub (1) 1 @ 2’ 8 x 8 cedar Wood sphere 1 @ 10”-dia ., with dowel screw Pad (center pier) (2) Cut from stringers 2 x 12 pressure-treated Framing anchors Joists to posts 8, with nails Simpson U26-2 Angled joists to perim. beams 16, with na ils Simpson U26 Angled joists to double joists 16, with nails Simpson LSU26 Anchor bolts 9 @5/8 ” x 12” Galvanized J-bolt Posts to piers 8, with fasteners Simpson ABU66 Perimeter beams to posts 32 112 ” x 6” lag screws & washers Metal anchors-rafters to beams 24 Simpson H1 Metal hangers-rafters to hub 8, with nails Simpson FB26 Posts to roof beams 8, with fasteners Simpson 1212T Beams to roof beams 8, with nails 3” x 12” x 14-gauge galv. plate Stair stringers to perimeter beam 6, with nails Simpson L50 Stairs Compactible gravel 4.5 cu. ft. Concrete form 2 @ 8’-0” 2x4 Stair pad 7 @ 60-lb. bags Concrete mi x Stringers (3) 2 @ 8’-0” 2 x 12 pressure-treated Stair tread s (6) 2 @ 10’-0” 2 x 6 cedar Stair risers (3) 1 @ 10’-0” 1 x 8 cedar
150 • GAZE BO & ARBOR PROJ ECTS
Description (NO, finished pieces) Quantity/Size Material Finishing Lumber Decking 15 @S’-O”, 6 @ 10’-0” 2 x 6 cedar Deck starter 1@1’-0” 2 x S cedar Fascia 4 @ 10’-0” 2 x 4 cedar Lattice 4 panels @ 4 x S’ Cedar lattice Stops 15 @S’-O” (horizontal) 5/4 X 5/4 cedar 10 @ 10’-0” (vertical) Rails (37) 19 @ S’-O” 2 x 4 cedar Roofing Roof sheathing 26 @S’-O”, 14 @ 10’-0” 1 x 6 T&G V-joint cedar Asphalt shingles 256 sq. ft. 15# building paper 300 sq. ft. Metal drip edge 36 linear ft. Galvanized flashing 3 linear ft. Roofing cement 1 tube Fasteners 16d common nails 16d galvanized common nails 16d galvanized box nails 16d galvanized casing nails 10d galvanized common nails Sd galvanized box nails Sd galvanized finish nails 3d galvanized finish nails Roofing nails, to fit roofing material 1112” galvanized joist hanger nails Masonry screws or nails 3” deck screws Construction adhesive
C lassic 8-Sided Gazebo • 151152 • GAZEBO &ARBOR PROJECTS
I 8-Sided Gazebo
Front Elevation A
11 «n,
I-j
~
! SHIN'GLE S
\ ~
~
~ 14 lit ~~ ~ ~
2 X 4 FA SCIA
,
III mm li m 5/ 4 x 5/ 4 STOPS
PANEL
~r----
~ DOUBLE 2X4
Bono M RAIL
v X 6 PO STS
,
· 1 X 4 TO PRAlL
§8§
m m f---- 5/ 4 X 5/ 4 STOPS
22§l
mmil PANEL
-r-----. IIRI F 2X4
" BonOM RAIL
I
"" \
\
I I
\ RISERS
OCTAGONAL STARTER 2 X 6 DECKING
CUT FROM 2 X 8
TREATED
2 X 6 JOISTS
"" . Z
-
PAD - (2) TREATED
2X12 X 12
-
- PLATES WITH
SHIM TO
PROPER HEIGHT
GRADE16”-DIA. CONCRETE PIER - EXTEND BELOW FROST LINE 1 __+— (2) 5/ 8”-DIA. ANCHOR BOLT, 12”-LONG COUNTERSINK INTO PAD
I 8-Sided Gazebo
Center Pier Detail
Classic 8-Sided Ga zebo • 153
I 8-Sided Gazebo
Floor Framing Plan
12"-DIA. POURED TREATED (2) 2 X 6
CONCRETE PIER (8) THUS BEAM AT
PERIMETER
11 "
16"-DIA. POURED
CONCRETE CENTER PIER TREATED 2 X 6 ANGLED JOISTS
*ATIACH TO PERIM. BEAMS
WITH HANGERS
*ATIACH TO DOUBLE JOISTS
WITH SKEWABLE HANGERS
6 X 6 POSTS
ANCHOR TO
CONe. PIERS
WITH POST
BASE
o,
0,
TREATED
2 X 6 DOUBLE
JOISTS - ATIACH
TO POSTS
WITH HANGERS
2 X 4 KICKER
(3) TREATED BLOCK
2 X 12 STRINGERS
3'-6" X 3'-0 " X 4"
-THICK POURED
CONCRETE
PAD UNDER
STAIRS
2 '-7 5/ 8" 3'-8 3/ 4" 2 '-75/8"
CENTER OF
POSTS & PIERS
TYPICAL DIMENSIONS ALL SIDES154 • GAZE BO &A RBOR PROJ ECTS
10"-DIA. WOOD SPHERE
RAFTER HUB
CONSTRUCTED
FROM 8 X 8
ASPHALT2 X 8 HIP SHINGLES RAFTERS
2 X 8 PURLINS BETWEEN RAFTERS
1 X 6 T&G
CEDAR BOARDS
2 X 4 CEDAR
FASCIA
2 X 6 COLLAR TIES - CROSS 5/ 4 X 5/4 STOPS
6 X 8 ROOF BEAM OVER EACH OTHER
LATIICE PANEL
DOUBLE 2 X 4
BOTIOM RAIL
6 X 6 POST
1=+--2 X 4 TOP RAIL
5/ 4 X 5/ 4 STOPS
LATIICE PANEL
2 X 6 DECKING
2 X 6 JOISTS
DOUBLE 2 X 4
BOTIOM RAIL
-tt-- POST BASE
/.
/'12”-DIA. POURED CONe. PIER 16”-DIA. POURED CONe. PIER 12”-DIA. POURED CONe. PIER EXTEND BELOW FROST LINE EXTEND BELOW FROST LINE EXTEND BELOW FROST LINE
I 8-Sided Gazebo
Building Section
Classic 8-Sided Gazebo • 155
OCTAGONAL RAFTER HUB
CONSTRUCTED
FROM 8 X 8
2 X 6 COLLAR TIES
LIi~77i~~~~0~// SHOWN DASHED
?"'P4---I-l-_ 2 X 6 HIP RAFTER
8 THUS
;. 2 X 6 PURLINS
-'r
~
1 + - - - - - - + - + - - 1 + - - BETWEEN RAFTERS
,
'"
~
;,.
- '-=---'-~
- - - - - --
2 X 6 INTERMEDIATE
RAFTERS - 16 THUS
6 X 8 ROOF BEAM
2 X 4 FASCIA
2'-75/8" 3'-83/4" 2'-75/8"
9 1-0"
TYPICAL DIMENSIONS ALL SIDESI 8-Sided Gazebo Roof Framing Plan
~ 93/l6
12
PURLIN PLACEMENT
~10
SHOWN DOTTED
7-1 / 2"
9-1/4".
~-r-_ 1-1 / 4" 2 X 6 HIP RAFTER 12
,---T'--2-1 /2"
CUT ENDS OF
HIP RAFTERS
"fu~>
%~ 4-3/4" HIP RAFTER
~fl1J~~vi
".~
INTERMEDIATE
RAFTER
I 8-Sided Gazebo
Rafter Templates156 • GA ZE BO & A RBOR PROJ ECTS
OCTAGONAL WOOD STARTER
CUT FROM 2 X 8
co
~
'"
"-,
WOOD RAILING I 8-Sided Gazebo
Decking Plan
7 SIDES
N
6 X 6 POST
2 X 6 DECKING
V1
u.J
Cl
V1
...J
...J
<t:
V1 't
~
Z M, Q ”’” ::;; V1 Z ”’? u.J M (2) 1 / 2 “-DIA. X 6” LAG BOLTS PER END is …J <t: U c:: DOUBLE 2 X 6 ~ 00 PERIMETER 22.5 ° ~ FLOOR BEAM CUT ’""-, N ~
NOTCH 6 X 6
2 X 6 STAIR TREAD
POST FOR BEAM
SUPPORT
i--t====1-i-DOWN 3 RISERS
I 8-Sided Gazebo
3'-6" X 3'_0" X 4"- Floor Beam Support Detail
THICK POURED
CONCRETE PAD
/ ,,
/
'1~ 1/ 2" 11"
/
/
/
/ +--- , - - - - - ' ; ' ,=------t------+---'k-
I 8-Sided Gazebo ,
Stringer Template 2 X 12 "
STRINGER '
~----'~,----~~~
BEAM WITH METAL ANGLES
~------i" ,
• /~
/ ~
~-----~/ '"
1 X 8 RISER
J"~':01/4" /J J
.........
RIPPED TO FIT / .......
" "
l1c~~JC~~3--_ DOUBLE 2 X 6
TREAD WITH 1/ 4 "
SPACE BETWEEN
GRADE
-+----POURED CONCRETE PAD
12"
I 8-Sided Gazebo
Stair Detail
C lassic 8-Sided Gazebo • 157
ASPHALT SHINGLES
:::;;;j
2 X 4 CEDAR
TOP RAIL
15# BUILDING PAPER
5/4 X 5/4 CEDA(
STOPS BOTH
SIDES 1 X 6 T&G
V-JOINT CEDAR
BOARDS - _ _ _ __
METAL DRIP EDGE
, "
LADICE PANE(
METAL ANCHORS @
EACH RAFTER
6 X 8 TIMBER BEAM
2 X 4 CEDAR
BODOM TEE STRAP
RAIL BOTH ANCHOR
2 X 4 FASCIA
SIDES POST TO
BEAM
5/ 4 X 5/ 4
2 ; ; DECKING CEDAR STOPS
BOTH SIDES
II I I II
1 /2"~(2 )2X 6PERI~ ~ / TREATED JOIST BEAMS / LADICE PANEL
TREATED 2 X 6 JOISTS
2 X 4 CEDAR
I D POST BASE BODOM RAIL
BOTH SIDES
/ ANCHOR
TO PIER
GRADE ,/ I 8-Sided Gazebo5 / 8 “-DIA. X 12” VCONCRETE ~ 2”-DIA. PIER Roof Edge Detail J-BOLT ANCHOR ~ / EXTEND BELOW FROST LINE • • I 8-Sided Gazebo 3” X 12” X 14-GAUGE 6 X 8 TIMBER BEAM
Detail at Deck Edge PLATE - TOP OF BEAMS
2 X 6 HIP RAFTERS
RAFTER HUB
CONSTRUCTED
6 X 6 POST
SHOWN DASHED
BELOW ROOF BEAM
--r~~"" Mm.
FROM 8 X 8
\ ,,"-_ T- ANCHOR
BEAMS TO POST
METAL
HANGER
MITER ROOF BEAM
AT CORNER 22.5
CUT OUTER CORNERS
FLUSH WITH FACE OF POST
6 X 8 ROOF BEAM
I 8-Sided Gazebo I 8-Sided Gazebo
Rafter Hub Detail Corner Detail at Roof Beam Line158 • GA ZE BO & A RBOR PR OJECTS
I How to Build the Classic 8-Sided Gazebo Step A: Pour the Concrete Pier step B: Set the Posts Footings 1. Use a stra ight boa rd to mark reference lines fo r NOTE: See page 212 for instructions on laying out squaring the post anchors. Set the board on top of one and pouring concrete pier footings. Use 12”-dia. of th e outer foo tings and on th e center footing. cardboard tube forms for the eight outer piers and Holding th e boa rd aga inst the same side of th e J-bolts, a 16”-dia. form for the center pier. draw a penc il line along the board across th e tops of I . Set up batter board s in a square pattern, and th e footings. Do the sa me for th e remaining foo tin gs. attac h tight maso n’s lines to form a 9 x 9-ft. square. 2. Place a metal post anchor on eac h pe rim eter Ta ke di ago nal measurements to make sure th e lines footing and ce nter it over th e J-bolt. Use a framing are square to one anothe r. Attac h two more lines th at square to position th e anchor so it’s square to the ref- run di ago nall y from the corners and cross in th e cen- ere nce line (see photo F, on page 2 15). Sec ure th e ter of th e square- thi s intersec ti on represe nts th e anc hor with was he rs and a nut. ce nter of th e ce nter fo oting. 3. Set eac h post in an anchor, tack it in place with 2. Measure 315,1;” in both directions from each corner a nail , th en brace it with tempor31Y cross braces so and make a mark on a piece of tape attac hed to the line. th at it’s perfec tl y plumb. Sec ure th e post to th e 3. At eac h of th e nine points, use a plumb bob to an chor, using th e fasteners recomm end ed by th e tra nsfe r the point to th e ground , and mal·k th e point manufac ture r. Note: You will cut the posts to with a stake. Remove the mason’s lines . length during the construction of the roof frame. 4. Dig holes for the form s and add a 4” layer of grave l to each hole. Set th e form s so th e tops of the Step C: Install the Perimeter outer forms are 2” above grade and the center form is Floor Beams I j ” above grade. Level the form s and sec ure them I. Starti ng at one of the posts th at wi II be nea rest with pac ked soil. Restring the mason’s lines and con- to the sta irs, meas ure from the ground and mark th e finn that th e form s are ce ntered under th e nine points. pos t at 20 1;2”. Drawa level line at thi s mark around 5. Fill eac h form with co nc rete, a nd th en sc reed all four sides of th e pos t. Transfer thi s height mark to th e tops . Insert a 5Al” x 12” J-bolt in th e ce nter of the the oth er posts, usin g a mason’s line and a line leve l. form. Use a plumb bob to a li gn th e J-bolt with th e These marks re prese nt the top s of th e 2 x 6 perim e- point on th e line layout. On th e o ute r foo tin gs, set ter bea ms and th e doubl e joists of th e fl oor frame. th e bolts so th ey protrude 3/4” to I ” from th e con- 2. Meas ure down 5 1;2” from th e post marks and crete . On th e center footin g, set th e bolt to protrude make a seco nd mark on all sides of eac h pos t. Notch 5”. Let th e concrete cure co mpl ete ly. th e outer pos ts to accept the inner member of th e
Measure in 31%” from the corners of the string layout to Set a board across the center and each outer footing and mark the centers of the outside piers. mark a line across the top of the outer footing.
CLassic 8·Sided Gazebo • 159
perimeter Roor beams, as shown in the FLOOR pad that supports the joists at the center pier
BEAM SUPPORT DETAIL, on page 157, using a (see the CENTER PIER DETAIL, on page 153)
handsaw or circular saw and a chisel, 4. Cut two 2 x 12 plates- one from two of the
3. Cut the inner members of the perimeter boards yo u'll use for the stair stringers- and cut a
floor beams to extend between the centers of the shim at 111f4". Use treated plywood or treated lumber
notches of adjacent posts, angling the ends at for the shim (if necessary, sand a lumber shim to the
22112° . Set the members into the notches and tack correct thickness with a belt sandeL) Test-fit the pad;
them to the posts with two 16d galv. common then remove the joist.
nails. See photo C. 5. Fasten together the plates and shim with 16d
4. Cut the outer members of the perimeter beams galvanized nails. Drill a counterbored hole for the
to fit around the inner mem bers, angling the ends at anchor nut and washer into the top plate, then drill a
221;2° so they fit together at tight miter joints (you 5;8" hole through the center of th e plates and shim.
may have to adjust the angles a little). Anchor the Secure the pad to the pier with construction adhe-
perimeter beams to the posts with two 1;2" x 6" lag sive, anchor nut, and washer.
screws at each end, as shown in the FLOOR BEAM 6. Install th e double joist, fastening it to the hang-
SUPPORT DETAIL. Fasten the inner and outer ers with the recommended nails and toenailing it to
beams together with pairs of I Od galvanized common the center pad with I Od galvanized nails.
nails driven every 12". 7. Cut and assemble two double joists that run
perpendicular to the full-length double joist. Install
Step D: Install the Double Joists the joists at the midpoint of the full-length joist, toe-
nai ling them to the joist and pad.
1. Fasten metal hangers to the inside centers of
8. Cut the remaining four double joists so
the posts so the tops of th e joists will be Rush with
their inside ends taper together at 45 °. Install the
the upper line drawn in Step C (also, see the
joists folloWing the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN.
FLOOR FRAMING PLAN, on page 156).
2 . Cut two 2 x 6 joists to span between two
opposing posts, as shown in the FLOOR FRAM-
Step E: Install the Angled Floor
ING PLAN (c heck the boards for crowning, and Joists
make sure to install them crown-up). Nail the joists I. Mark the perimeter beam II" from the
together with pairs of I Od galvanized common nails post sides to represent the outside faces of th e
spaced every 12". sixteen floor joists (see the FLOOR FRAMING
3. Set the double joist into the hangers and PLAN). Then, measure from the inside face of
leave it in place while you build and fit the wood each post toward the center and mark both sidesCut the post notches by making horizontal cuts with a Miter the ends of four of the double joists so they meet flush handsaw or circular saw, and then remove the remaining with the full-length joist and those perpendicular to it. material with a chisel.
160 • GAZEBO &ARBOR PROJECTS
of the double joists at 25”- this mark represents stair pad to the top of the floor deck. If your gaze- the end of the angled joist. bo is at a different height, adjust the riser dimen- 2. Install metal joist hangers on the perimeter sion of the steps to match your project: divide the beams and skewable (adjustable ) hangers on the floor height (including the decking) by three to find double joists, using the recommended fasteners. the riser height for each step. 3. Cut and install th e 2 x 6 angled floOl- joists, I. Use a framing square to layout the first 2 x 12 stair following the hanger manufacturer’s instructions. sninger, following the STRINGER TEMPLATE: Starting at one end of the board, position the framing step F: Pour the Stair Pad square along the top edge of the board. Align the II” mark on the square’s blade (long part) and the 7” mark 1. Using stakes or mason ‘s line, mark a rectangu- on the tongue (s hort part) with the edge of the board. lar area that is 39 x 49”, positioning its long side Trace along the outer edges of the blade and tongue, 10 1/.2” from the perimeter beam. Center the rectangle then use the square to extend the blade marking to the between the two nearest posts. other edge of the board. The tongue mark represents the 2. Excavate within the area to a depth of 7”. Add first riser. 4” of compactible gravel and tamp it thoroughly. 2. Measure 1 11.2” from the bottom Illark and draw 3. Build a fonn from 2 x 4 lumber that is 36 x 42” another line that is parallel to it- this is the cutting line (inner dimensions). Set the form with stakes so that for the bottom of the stringer (the I !,-z” is an allowance the inside face of its long side is 12” from the perime- for the thickness of the treads of the first step). ter beam and the form is centered between the near- 3. Continue th e step layout, starting at th e point est posts. Make sure the top of the form is level and where the first riser mark intersects the top edge of is 19 1/.2” from the top of the perimeter beam. the board. Draw lines for the tread of the first step 4. Fill th e form with concrete and screed the top and the riser of the second step. Repeat this process flat with a 2 x 4. Float the concrete, if desired (see to draw one more step and a top cutting line. page 219), and add a broomed or other textured fin- 4. Measure 10 1/.2” from th e top riser and make a ish for a slip-resistant surface. Round over the edges mark on the top cutting line. Draw a perpendicular of the pad with a concrete edger. Let the concrete line from the cutting line to the opposite edge of th e cure, and th en remove the form and backfill around board- this line represents the top end cut. the pad with soil or gravel. 5. Cut the stringer and test-fit it against the stair pad and perimeter beam. Make any necessaty adjust- Step G: Build the Stairs ments. Using the stringer as a pattern , trace the lay- NOTE: The STRINGER TEMPLATE, on page 157, is out onto the two remaining stringer boards, and then designed for a gazebo that measures 21” from the cut the stringers.
Fasten the angled floor joists to the sides of the double Fill the 2 x 4 form for the stair pad with concrete, then joists with skewable metal anchors. screed the top with a straight piece of 2 x 4.
Classic 8-Sided Ga zebo • 161
6. Attach the stringers to the perimeter Aoor beam 3. Install the 2 x 6 treads and 1 x 8 riser boards on
with metal angles, following the layout shown in the the stairs following the STAIR DETAIL, on page 157.
FLOOR FRAMING PLAN.
7. From scrap pressure-treated 2 x 4 lumber, cut Step I: Set the Roof Beams
kicker blocks to fit between the bottom ends of the
I. Measure up from the Aoor deck and mark one
stair stringers. Fasten the blocks to the concrete pad
of the posts at 1011;2". Transfer that mark to the
with construction adhesive and masomy screws or
remaining posts, using a mason's line and a line level.
nails, then nail through the sides of the stringers into
Mark a level cutting line around all sides of each
the kickers with 16d galv. common nails.
post, then cut the posts with a reciprocating saw or
handsaw.
step H: Install the Decking 2. On the top of each post, draw a line down the
1. Cut an octagonal starter piece from a cedar middle that points toward the center of the structure.
2 x 8: Draw two lines across the board to make a Cut each of the four 6 x 8 roof beams in half so you
7V4 x 7 1/4" square. Make a mark 2 1;8" in from each have eight 5-ft.-long beams.
corner, and then connect the marks to form an octa- 3. Set each roof beam on top of two neighboring
gon. Cut the starter piece and position it in the cen- posts so its outside face is Aush with the outside corners
ter of the Aoor frame , with each point centered on a of the posts. Mark the inside face of the roof beam
double joist. Drill pilot holes and attach the piece where it meets the post centerlines- these marks rep-
with 3" deck screws. resent cuts at each end (see the CORNER DETAIL
2. Cut the 2 x 6 deck boards for each row one at a AT ROOF BEAM LINE, on page 158). Also mark the
time. The end cuts for each boards should be 221;2°, underside of the beam by tracing along the outside
but you may have to adjust the angles occasionally to faces of the posts- these lines show you where to trim
make tight joints. Gap the boards, if desired, but off the beams so they will be Aush with the outside
make sure the gaps are consistent- use scrap wood post faces. Use a square to extend the marks down
or nails as spacers. Drill pilot holes and drive two around the post sides to help keep your cuts straight.
screws wherever a board meets a framing member. 4. Starting from the end-cut marks, cut the beam
Periodically measure to make sure the boards are par- ends at 221;2°. Trim off the corners at the underside
allel to the perimeter beams. Overhang the perimeter marks. Mark and cut the remaining beams, test-fit-
beams by 1;2" with the outer row of decking. ting the angles as you go.
TreadAlign the framing square with the top edge of the board. Make Install the decking by completing one row at a time. the 11” tread mark by tracing along the square’s tongue, the riser mark along the blade.
162 • GA ZE BO & A RBOR PROJ ECTS
5. Insta ll th e beams , sec uring th e m to th e posts 4. Use a patte rn rafte r to mark and c ut th e sixw ith me tal T-a nchors. Be nd th e side Ra nges of the rem aining hip rafte rs. In stall th e rafters, toe nailing a nc ho rs, as shown in th e C ORNE R D ETAIL AT the bottom e nd s to th e roof bea ms with one 16d ROO F BEA M LI N E, a nd fas te n th e anc ho rs w ith common nail on eac h side. Fasten the top e nd s to the th e reco mm e nded fasteners . Ti e th e bea ms toge th- hange rs with 11;2” ga lva nized joist ha nge r nails, th e n e r with ga lva ni zed me tal pl ates fas te ned w ith 16d insta ll metal hange rs at th e bottom rafte r e nd s. ga lva ni ze d box nail s . Step K: Install Purlins & Step J: Install the Hip Rafters Intermediate Rafters I. C ut th e roof hub from a n 8 x 8 pos t, foll owin g I. On eac h side of eac h hip rafter, meas ure up th e RAFfE R HUB D ETA IL on page 158. You ca n from th e c ut edge at th e lower rafte r e nd a nd make a have th e hub c ut for you at a lumbelyard or c ut it mark at 5 13/4”- th ese ma rks re present th e lower yourself using a table saw or circ ula r saw (see photo A, faces of th e purlins (see th e ROOF FRAMI NG page 106) . C ut th e post at 16”, th e n mark an octago n PLAN, on page 156; th e BUILDI NG SECTION, on on eac h e nd : make a mark 2 118” in from eac h corne r, page 15 3; and the RAFTE R T E MPLAT ES ). a nd th e n join th e marks. The c uts are at 4 5°. If yo u 2. C ut th e 2 x 6 purlins, beveling th e e nd s at use a circ ul a r saw, exte nd th e c uttin g lines down th e 221;2°. Pos itio n th e m betwee n th e raft e rs so th e ir sides of th e post to ensure straight c uts. top edges are Ru sh with th e top edges of th e rafte rs. 2. Draw a line a round th e pe rim ete r of th e hub , E ndn ail o r toe nail eac h purlin to a rafter with 16d 3 1;2” from th e bottom end . Cente r a metal anc hor on common nail s. eac h hub side, with its bottom Rush to th e line, and 3. M ark the layo ut for the intermedi ate rafte rs fas te n it to th e hub using th e reco mm e nded nails. onto th e tops of the roof beams , following th e RO OF 3. C ut two pattern 2 x 6 hip rafte rs, following th e FRAMI NG PLA I RAFTE R TE MPLATES on page 156. Tac k th e 4. C ut a patte rn inte rmediate rafte r, fo ll owing th e rafte rs to opposing sides of th e hub and tes t-fit th e RAFTE R TEM PLATES. Test-fit th e rafter and make rafte rs on th e roof beams. The bottom rafte r e nds any necessalY adjustments. Use the pattern rafter to should fall over th e post ce nte rs. Make any necessalY mark and c ut the fifteen remaining rafters. adju stme nts to the rafter c uts. 5. Install th e rafte rs, e ndn ailing their top e nds to th e puriins and toe nailing th eir bottom e nd s to th e
Mark the inside faces of the beams at the post centerlines. Attach the rafters to the hangers on the roof hub, driving the Mark the beam undersides along the outside post faces. nails at a slight angle, if necessary.
CLassic 8-Sided Gazebo • 163
roof beams with 16d nails. Install metal anchors to 2. Install the 1 x 6 tongue-and-groove roof
secure th e bottom rafter ends to th e roof beams. sheathing, starting at the lower edge of the roof.
Angle-cut th e ends of the boards at 221;2°, cutting
step L: Install the Collar Ties them to length so their ends break on the centers of
the hip rafters. Fit the tongue-and-groove joints
I. C ut two 2 x 6 collar ti es to span between the
togeth er, and facenail th e sheathing to the hip and
outsides of the roof beams, as shown in the ROOF
intermediate rafters with Sd galvanized box nails.
FRAMING PLAN. Clip the top corners of the collar
ties so they don't project above the top edges of th e
intermediate rafters.
Step N: Install the Roofing
2. Install the ties to th e outside faces of neighbor- I. Install metal drip edge along the bottom edges
ing intermed iate rafters , as shown in th e ROOF of th e roof, angle-cutting th e e nds.
FRAMING PLAN- it doesn't matter which rafters 2. Lay 15# building paper over the sheathing and
you use, as long as the basic configuration matches drip edge. Overlap the paper at each hip by 6".
the plan. Fasten the collar ties with lOd nails. 3. Install th e asphalt shingles on one section of
3. Set two uncut 2 X 6 collar ties on top of- and the roof at a time. Trim the shingles flu sh with the
perpendicular to- the installed collar ties so both hip ridges.
ends extend beyond the intermediate rafters on 4. Cover the hip ridges with manufactured cap
opposing sides of th e roof (see the ROOF FRAM- shingles or caps you cut from standard shingles.
ING PLAN). Mark the ends of the ties by tracing 5. Piece in metal flashing around the roof hub,
along the top rafter edges. and seal all flashing seams and cover all exposed nail
4. Cut the marked collar ties, and then clip the heads with roofing cement.
top corners. Fasten the collar ties to the outside faces 6. Install the wood sphere on the center of the
of the intermediate rafters with 10d nails. roof hub, using a large dowel screw.
step M: Add the Fascia & Roof step 0: Build the Overhead
Sheathing Lattice Screens
I. Cut the 2 x 4 fascia, mitering the ends at J. On the side faces of each post, mark th e center
221;2°. Install the fascia with its top edges V4" above of the post width. Then measure over, toward the
the rafters so it will be flush with th e roof sheath- gazebo center, one-half the thickness of th e lattice
ing- use 16d galvanized casing nails.Bevel-cut the ends of the purlins so they Install the collar ties so that the upper Miter the ends of the sheathing boards meet flush with the rafter faces, and pair rest on top of, and are perpendicular and make sure the tongue-and-groove install them between the hip rafters. to, the lower pair. joints are tight before nailing.
164 • GAZEBO &ARBOR PROJECTS
panels and make a second mark. Use a level to draw screws driven through the inner rails , and fasten the a plumb line, starting from the second mark and stops with Sd galvanized finish nails drive n into the extending down 17 1/2” from the roof beam (see the posts and beams. ROOF EDGE D ETAIL, on page ISS ). Draw a level line across the post face at the end of the vertical line Step P: Build the Railings & (at the 171;2” mark). Also, snap a chalk line betwee n Lower Lattice the vertical lines on the underside of the beams- 1. Measure up from the deck and mark the side these will guide the placement of the top inner stops. faces of eac h post at 3” and 36”. Draw level lines 2. Cut a cedar 2 X 4 rail to span betwee n eac h set across the faces at these marks. Draw a plumb line of posts, so the bottom rail edge is on the level line between the level marks by finding the post center and the side face is on the plumb line- bevel the and moving inward one-half the thickness of the lat- ends at 221;2°. Fasten the rails to th e posts with 3” tice, as you did in Step O. deck screws. 3. Cut 5/4 X 5/4 (a bout I VB X 1 1;8” actual dimen- 2. Cut the 2 X 4 cedar top rails to fit between seven pairs of posts (s kipping the two posts flanking sion) cedar inner stops to span between posts under- the stairs), as shown in the DETAIL AT DECK neath the roof beams. Bevel the ends at 221;2° and EDGE, on pagel5S. Miter the rail ends at 221;2° and fasten the stops to the beams with Sd galvanized finish install them with 3” deck screws so th ey are centered nails so their side faces are flush to th e chalk lines . on the posts and their top faces are on the upper 4. The vertical stops of the overhead screens and the screens below the railings (S tep P) are 5/4 X 5/4s level lines. 3. Cut and install the 2 X 4 inner bottom rails and that have one edge beveled at 221;20. It will save tim e 5/4 X 5/4 stops, following the procedure in Step O. to rip all of them at once, using a table saw, if avail- 4. Cut the lattice panels at 31 X 39 5;8”. Fasten the able- you’ll need about 110 linear feet. panels against th e stops and lower rails with 3d galva- 5. Cut and install th e inner vertical stops with their nized finish nails. sides flush to the plumb lines drawn on the posts. 6. Cut eight lattice panels at 16 X 39 5;8”. Set the 5. Cut and install the outer bottom rails , securing them with screws, th en cut and install the outer hori- pane ls against the inner stops and rails and fasten zontal and vertical stops. them with 3d galvanized finish nails. 7. Cut and install th e outer rails and stops to complete the screens. Fasten th e rails with 3” deck
shingle the roof sides individually, then Install the inner stops and rails on the Set the lattice panels against the inner cover the hip ridges with caps, overlapping layout lines. The vertical stops are stops and rails, and fasten them with 3d the shingles equally on both sides. beveled at 221;20 (INSET). galvanized finish nails.
Classic 8-Sided Ga zebo • 165
Adding a wood deck below, as shown in this
four-post structure, can turn a party shelter into a
comfortable remote patio.I Party Shelter A simpl e outdoor s he lte r is a ll a bo ut ve rsa- To Simplify co nstruction , th e s he lte r’s roo f is tility. Rain or s hin e, it’s a lways read y for fra med w ith pre- built wood tru sses. Th ey a re a pi c ni cs, outdoo r projec ts, pl ayin g with th e sta nd a rd ty pe (6- in - 12 slope a nd 1O-foo t. s pa n) kid s, o r ju st lo un gin g in th e s hade. And yo u never th a t sho uld be ava il a bl e in stock at a loca l lum be r- have to sto p th e pa rty beca u se of th e wea th e r. ya rd o r home ce nte r. Yo u may also dec id e to ord e r T he large shelter on page 169 covers a 12 x 16- c ustom tru sses buil t to your spec ifi ca ti o ns. Be s ure foot area- plenty of room for a dec k w ith a picni c to spec ify th e roof slope , roof span , a nd a mou nt of ta ble, or a sa ndbox and play structure. T he sturdy ove rh a ng beyo nd th e s id e bea ms (to c rea te a n post-a nd-beam design is idea l for c ustom add-oIlS, eave ). Yo u may have to give seve ral wee ks’ lead-tim e suc h as ba mboo shades or ha nging pla nts and vin es. for c usto m tru sses . It’s also easy to dress up with deco ra tive de ta ils th at ma tc h your house.
166 • GAZEBO & A RBOR PR OJEC T S
This multi-functional backyard landscape features a custom party shelter with arbor-style roof to define and shade the main patio space.
Dramatic embellishments, including a pagoda-style roof and traditional architrave, make this custom shelter as eye-catch ing as it is practical.
Party SheLter • 167I Material List Description (NO. finished pieces) Qua ntityISize Material Foundation Batterboards/braces 10 @ 8’-0” 2x4 Drainage material 121l cu. ft. compactible gravel Concrete tube forms 6 @ 14”-dia. Concrete field measure 3,000 PSI concrete Beam framing Posts (6) 6@ 12’ 6 x 6 rough-sawn cedar Side beams (4) 4@ 16’ 2 x 8 pressure-treated End beams (2) 2@ 12’ 2 x 8 pressure-treated Lateral beams (4) 4@ 10’ 2 x 8 pressure-treated Diagonal supports (8) 4@8’ 4 x 4 cedar Roof Framing Gable braces (8) 4@10’,2@8’ 2x4 Trusses, 2 end and 11 common (13) 13 @ 10’ span 2 x 4 with 6-in-12 pitch Purlins (10) 20@8’ 2x4 Metal hurricane ties 22, with na ils Simpson H-1 Metal hurricane ties 4, with nails Simpson H-2.5 Roofing Metal roofing panels 8@4’ x 8’ with ridge cap and sealer strip Gable Finishes Gable-end purlin blocking (16) 3@8’ 2x2 Blocking (8) 5@10’ 1x6 Gable sheathing (4) 2@4 x8 ’ 3/4” CDX plywood Gable end fascia (4) 4@ 8’ 1 x 6 cedar Side fascia (2) 4@ 10’ 1 x 8 cedar Siding (14) 14@ 8’ cedar siding with 6” reveal Fasteners 1112” deck screws 21/2 ” deck screws 6d galvanized common nails 8d galvanized common nails 8d joist hanger nails 10d galvanized common nails 3/8 ” X 4” galvanized lag screws 48, with washers 3/8” X 5” galvanized lag screws 12, with washers 10d ringshank nails 6d galvanized casing nails 6d siding nails 1” self-tapping metal roofing screws with rubber washers (as specified by metal roofing manufacturer) 21/2” self-tapping metal roofing screws with rubber washers (as specified by metal roofing manufacturer)
168 • GA ZE BO & A RBOR PROJ ECTS
Party SheLter • 169
1 X 6 GABLE-END
FASCIA
I party Shelter1 ‘-3/ 4” 1’-3/ 4” Front Elevation CEDAR SIDING
6 X 6 POST
14" DIAMETER
CONCRETE FOOTING
(EMBED POST
INTO CONCRETE)
PREMANUFACTURED 2 X 4 TRUSS+---- ~ 3 ” COMPACTIBLE GRAVEL . …
I Party Shelter
Front Section 2 X 8 DOUBLE
SIDE BEAM
+ f - --\-- - - - - 9'-6" - - - - - - - - - t +
+---+-+----\------ 12'-O"- - - - - - - - - + - - f - - , j < .
2 X 8 END BEAM170 • GAZEB O &A RBORPROJ ECTS
METAL ROOFING PANELS METAL RIDGE CAP
\
\
/
II party Shelter II’ I, I”
IIIII "
"Side Elevation I I : : : :
, Lf ,
FASCIA
1'- I I-I 1'- I
I party Shelter Side Section
2 X 4 PURLINS
1 '- 3 1/4" o .c. 1 '-4" O.c. 2X4~ A /COMMON TRUSS
/
I" 2 X4
GABLE
ENO TRUSS
f1~ /o'p ~~ j/ ~ ~ / ~~
~ ~"l,
2X8
END BEAM
----
fI 2X8
. --- .
SIDE BEAM
----
~
LATERAL
4 4 DIAGONAL BEAMS
SUPPORTI~I I-I I-I
Party She Lter • 171
8'·0"
+---iC-,-I------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --, -
/"::~ / 2 X 8 DOUBLE SIDEBEAM
i~
\-V
- \f--V
I Party Shelter r-
Beam Framing 2X8 ENDBEA~
Plan '---
~ 2 X 8 LATERAL BEAMS ______
~ ~ I~
'1
~
14" CONCRETE
'00'"' ~ ;:: 1
'--)
: ROOFUNE
l____________________________________________________________~ ___________________________________________________________________________________________;_
1" ROOF
2X4 OVERHANG
GABLE-EN D
TRUSS
I party Shelter
"" -~A
1
Diagonal Support DetailI I SIDE VIEW I I ~CE DAR LAP
ty ~o 01 51 DING WITH 6” REVEAL
{ 3’-7” ‘k f\1’ 4” PlYWDOO SHEATHING
~ \ ~:
TOP VIEW
X6
AlLER
I=j
I 1-3/4" XB
~1
~~
NO BEAM,I, 3’· 2” ,I, 5” ,I, ETAL URRICANE TI ES
I Party She Iter
Gable-End Detail
172 • GA ZE BO&A RBORPROJECTSI How to Build the Party Shelter step A: Locate the Footings 1. Layout the rough location of the party shelter with stakes and string, in an area 10ft. wide and 16 ft. long. Make sure the surface is relative ly flat and even. 2. Build ten 2 x 4 batterboards (page 213). Fasten the cross pieces about 2” below the tops of the stakes, using 21;2” deck screws. 3. Following th e rough layout, establish the exac t location of the front walls by positioning a pair of bat- terboards 12” outside the front rough layout string. Run a level mason’s string roughly 3” inside the lay- out string, then remove all the rough layout stakes and string. 4. Measure along the front mason ‘s string, and mark the centerpoint of the first post at 12”, using masking tape. Measure and mark the second post at 114” from the first mark. 5. Set up additional batterboards and stretch two mason’s strings perpendicular to the front wall string, so the strings intersect th e centerpoints of the front posts. Use th e 3-4-5 triangle method to establish Run mason’s strings to determine the exact locations of the centerpoints of the posts. right angles for both side wall strings (refe r to page 213). 6. Measure along both side wall strings and mark th e centerpoint of the end posts with masking tape at 186” . Set up batterboards and run a mason’s string that intersects the centerpoints for th e back wall. 7. Check the mason ‘s strings for square by meas- uring diagonally from corner to corner, adjusting the stlings until the measurem ents are equal. 8. From the centerpoint of the front posts, meas- ure along the side walls 93” and mark the center- points of th e center posts, using masking tape. Set up batterboards and run a mason ‘s string across th e cen- terpoints . 9. Transfer the six post centerpoints to th e ground using a plumb bob, th en drive wooden stakes to mark their locations.
step B: Install the Posts & Pour the Footings I. Remove the mason ‘s strings, leaving the batter- boards in place. Dig 16”-diameter holes at least 42” deep, using a power auger or clamshell digger. Make sure th e hol es are centered on th e stakes. NOTE: Check with the local building depart- Place a 12-ft. post in the footing hole and align with the ment for size and depth requirements for footings mason’s strings. Plumb the post and brace it on adjacent in your area. Also see page 212. sides with 2 x 4s staked to the ground.
Party SheLter • 173
2. Pour 3" of compac tible gravel into eac h footin g step C: Notch the Posts
hole. C ut 14"- diameter conc rete tube forms to
length , so the footings will be 6" above the ground. I. Measure up from th e ground 102" and mark
Inse rt the forms into the holes, then pack soil aro und one of th e front posts. Transfer th e mark onto eac h
each for support. side of the post, using a co mbination square.
3 . On eac h batterboard , meas ure 3" out from 2. From the he ight refe re nce line, run a level
the original location and tack a new nail, then retie mason's line across the faces of each of the five
the mason's strings to establi sh the outside face of remaining posts and mark. Transfer th e line to alJ
eac h wa ll. sides of the posts with a co mbination sq uare, th en
4. Place a 12-ft. 6 x 6, rough-cut ceda r post into cut off the tops of all the posts at the line, using a
the front corner concre te form tube. Align the post reciprocating saw or handsaw.
with the maso n's strings in both directions. 3. Mark a 3" deep x 7 W' long notc h on the out-
5. Attach two 2 x 4 braces to the post on adj a- side face of each post. Cut out the notches with a
cent sides, usin g 21j~" deck screws . Drive a pointed reciprocating saw.
2 x 4 stake into the ground next to the e nd of eac h
brace. C heck the post on adj ace nt sides for plumb, Step 0: Install the Side Beams
using a carpen ter's level, ma king adjustments as NOTE: Refer to the BEAM FRAMING PLAN on
necessa ry. Attach the braces to th e stakes with two page 172.
2J;2" deck sc rews . I. C ut four 2 x 8s at 192", using a circ ul ar saw,
6. Install and brace th e fi ve remainin g posts, th en th e n clamp the board s together in pairs to make the
mix concrete and fill the form tubes to anchor the side beams. Make sure th e crowned edges are up and
posts. Ta mp the conc rete with a long stick or rod to th e ends are flu sh. NaiJ togeth e r using IOd common
eliminate any air pockets. Recheck th e posts for nails in rows of three, spaced every 16".
plumb , mak ing necessalY adjustments to the braces. 2. From the front end of eac h side bea m, meas ure
Let the co ncrete c ure for 1 week. across the top edge and mark the tru ss locations at
I J;2 " and I S W' . The n, meas uring fro m the 15 1/4"
Mark 3" x 71/4"
notches on theoutside face of each beam and cut out with a reciprocating saw.
174 • GAZEBO&ARBORPROJECTS
mark, make a mark evelY 16”- at 32”, 48”, 64” and so on, to the end of the side beam. Make a mark 1112” in from the remaining end. Following the plans, draw an “X” next to each mark, designating to which side of the line the trusses go. The first two trusses on eac h bea m are closer togeth er th an th e re maining trusses. 3. Lift the beams into the notches with the crown up. Clamp into position so th e ends of the bea ms are flush with the edges of the posts. 4. Counterbore two 12 “-deep holes using a 1” spade bit, th en drill W’ pilot hol es into each beam at the post center locations. Drive 3;8” X 5” galvanized lag screws with washers into each hol e.
Step E: Install the End Beams NOTE: Refer to the BEAM FRAMING PLAN. 1. Cut two 2 x 8 end beams at 144”, using a cir- cular saw, th en meas ure in from eac h end and mark a reference line at 12”. 2. Position each end bea m against th e posts, with the top edge flu sh with the post tops. Match the ref- erence lines to the outside faces of the side beams, Build the double side beams and lift into the notches. and clamp th e end bea m in place. Drill counterbored pilot holes at each post, and secure with lag screws. 3. Drill a pair of la”-deep counterbored holes using a 1” spade bit, then drill 3 112” -deep, W’ pilot hol es at eac h location. Position th e hol es side- by-side, so one bores into the 3” post top created by notching, and the other into the end of the E side bea ms. 4. Fasten the end beams to the posts, using 3;8” X 4” lag screws with washers.
Step F: Install the Lateral Beams NOTE: Refer to the BEAM FRAMING PLAN. 1. At each pair of posts, measure the span between th e interior faces of th e side beams. C ut four 2 x 8 lateral beams to size, approximately 114”, using a circular saw. 2. Lift each beam into position between th e side beams and against the side of the remaining 3” sec- tion of the post tops. Make sure the top edge of the beams are flush with th e tops of th e posts and clamp in place.
Cut the end beams to length, clamp in position, and drill
counterbored pilot holes into the post and side beams. Fasten
with lag screws.
Party SheLter • 175
3. Drill a pair of 112 "-deep counterbored holes step H: Install the Gable-end
using a 1" spade bit, then drill 3 Ia"-deep, 1/4" pilot
holes at each location.
Trusses
4. Fasten the lateral beams with 3;8" x 4" lag 1. To make the gable-end truss braces, cut 2 x 4s
screws with washers. at 36" and 120", using a circular saw. Cut four pieces
of each dimension to build four braces. Fasten the
Step G: Install the Diagonal 36" pieces at one end of the 120" pieces, using 2 112"
deck screws.
Supports 2. Use two braces at each gable end. Place the
1. Cut eight 4 x 4 diagonal supports to size, follow- 36" end of the brace at the top of the end beam,
ing the DIAGONAL SUPPORT DETAIL on page 172. roughly 36" in from the post. Position the opposite
2. At each post, measure down from the side end of the brace at the post, place a scrap piece of
beam and mark at 26". Position the mitered end of 2 x 4 between the brace and post, th en clamp the
the support against the post, aligned with the mark, brace at both the post and end beam .
and the notched-out end against the bottom edge of 3. Place the gable trusses on the ends of the side
the inner member of the side beam. Make sure the beams, flush against the braces. Align each truss with
support is centered on the post, then clamp the the reference marks on th e side beams, then measure
support to the side beam . the overhang of each rafter tail to ensure proper
3. At the notched end, drill a pair of Y2"-deep placement.
counterbored holes, using a 1" spade bit, then drill 4. Check to make sure the truss is plumb using a
1/4" pilot hol es into the side beams. Attach the sup- level, and clamp th e truss to the braces. Use wood
port with 3;8" x 4" lag screws with washers (two at shims at the braces to keep the truss plumb, if neces-
each lateral beam end). sary. Toenail the truss to the side beams, using 10d
4. M eas ure up from where the support meets the galvanized common nails.
post and mark 3" on-center. Drill a la"-deep counter- 5. Drive a 10d nail into the rafter tail of each
bored hole straight into the support at the mark, gable truss and stretch a mason's string between the
using a I" spade bit, then drill a 1/4" pilot hole into two ends. Make sure the string is flush across the
the post. Drive a 3;8" x 4" lag screw with washer into tails; this string will serve as a guide for installing the
each hole and fasten tightly. common trusses.Measure and cut the lateral beams to size, and clamp in position. Drill counterbored pilot holes and secure the beams with lag screws.
176 • GAZEBO&ARBORPROJECTS
Notch out one endG of the diagonal supports and cut the other end at a 45 ° angle. Fasten the supports in position with 3;\1” x 4” lag screws.
Align gable trusses
with the reference lines
on the side beams.
Check for plumb, then
clamp trusses to 2 x 4
Gable-end
braces. Toenail in place
truss brace
with 10d common nails.
INSET: Gable-end
hurricane tie.
Party SheLter • 177
step I: Install the Common 5. At the end of the fi rst sta rter purlin , measure
and mark a second 96" 2 x 4 with th e sam e truss
Trusses spac ing, co ntinuin g th e span to th e rea r ga ble-end
1. Install three common trusses, foll owin g th e truss . Align the new purlin with the reference mark
tru ss layo ut on th e top of th e side bea ms. Align th e on th e rear gable-end truss and comm on trusses,
ta ils of each truss with the maso n's string. Toenail make sure th e rea r ga ble-end tru ss is plumb, a nd
into place with lOd galva ni zed comm on nail s. attach the purlin w ith lOd galva nized ringshank nails.
2. Meas ure from one e nd of th e 2 x 4 starte r 6. Install th e rem aining trusses. Align each with
purlin at 96" a nd mark the 16" on-ce nter truss spac - th e marks on th e side bea ms and starte r purl in.
in g, foll owing th e m easurem ents used for th e side C heck each for plumb, the n toe nail in place with
bea ms: mark at 11;2" and 15 1/4", th e n eve ry 16" fo r 10d galvanized comm on nails, and fasten to the
the re maining trusses. Following your plans, mark an starte r purlin with I Od ga lva nized rings hank nails.
"X" on one side, indicatin g th e truss placem ent. 7. W ith the trusses in stalled , sec ure each using
3. M eas ure and mark 8" down from th e pea k on m etal hurri cane ti es. Fasten th e hurri cane ti es to th e
the install ed trusses. Position th e purlin with its side bea ms with 8d ga lvani zed comm on nail s and to
lower edge on th e 8" mark , and th e tru ss layout the rafte r ta ils with 8d joist ha nger nails.
marks aligned with th e trusses . Ma ke sure th e ga ble-
e nd truss is plumb, the n faste n th e purlin in place step J: Install the Purlins
with I Od galvanized rings han k nail s. Al ign th e
rem aining trusses with th e reference m arks on the I. At eac h gable end , m easure from th e lower
purlin , and faste n in place. edge of th e starte r purlin and ma rk every 18" along
4. Co ntinue installing trusses, working along the the rafter ch ords to the tails, following th e FRONT
purlin and aligning each truss with the layout m arks SECTIO N o n page 170. Sna p a chalk line ac ro ss the
on th e side beams and th e starter purlin . C heck eac h rafter chords between each pair of marks.
truss fo r plumb, the n toenail it to th e side bea ms 2. Align 2 X 4 purl ins across th e trusses, flu sh
with I Od galvanized common nails and fas ten to th e with th e e nds of the gable-e nd tru sses a nd aligned
purlin usi ng 10d galvani zed rings hank nai ls.
8" mark
I •
Align the common
trusses with the
reference lines on the
side beams and the
starter purlins. Toenail
trusses in place using
10d common nails.
INSET: Hurricane tie for
common trusses.178 • GAZEBO&A RBORPROJECTS
wi th th eir chalk lines, then fasten with 10d galva- nized ringshank nails. (The last purlin should fall 2V4” from the ends of the rafter tails. ) Repeat for the other side of the roof, and then remove the gab le-end truss braces. 3. Fasten 2 x 2 blocking to the top of each gable-end rafter chord between the purlins , using lOd galvanized common nails.
step K: Install the Blocking & Gable-end Sheathing NOTE: Refer to the GABLE-END DETAIL on page 172. I. Add 1 x 6 blocking to the chords and struts of the gable-end trusses. Measure and cut pieces to length as needed, using a rafter square to mark the angles for th e 6-in-12 roof pitch. (Refer to page 222 for rafter square techniques.) Install the blocking over the rafter chords so the top edge is flush with the top of the purlins and blocking. Fasten th e I x 6 blocking to the truss members with 6d common nails. 2. Measure the triangular shape of the gable-end Install 2 x 4 purlins across the rafter chords of the trusses, wa ll, from the top edge of the end beam to the top spaced every 18” on-center. Fasten with 10d ringshank nails. edge of the blocking. Divide the area into two equal- sized triangular areas, and cut 3/4” COX plyvvood to fit. Attach the sheathing with 1 1;2” deck screws.
Step L: Install the Fascia 1. Measure, mark, and cut 1 x 6 gable-end fascia boards- two for each gable end- long enough to extend from the peak to several inches past the end of the rafter tails following the FRONT ELEVA- TION on page 172 . Use a rafter square to mark the peak-ends of the boards for a 6-in-12 roof pitch, then cut th e angles. 2. Fasten the gable-end fascia boards to the gable sheathing, so the top edge of the boards are flush with the top of th e sheathing. Use 6d galvanized cas- ing nails. 3. Measure the span between the gable-end fascia boards at each end of the party shelter, then cut 1 x 8s to size for side fascia boards. Cut smaller board lengths to fit, if necessary, making sure seams fall on th e ends of rafter tails. Fasten with 6d galvanized cas- ing nails driven into the ends of the rafter tail s. Make sure the top edge of the side fasc ia boards do not protrude above the top of the last row of purlins. 4. Tlim the ends of the gab le-end fascia flush Attach 1 x 6 blocking to the chords and struts of the gable- with th e side fascia, using a handsaw. Drive three end trusses. Make sure the blocking covers the ends of the 6d galva nized casing nails through the gable-end purl ins. Cut triangular pieces of plywood sheathing and fasten fascia, into th e ends of the side fascia. them with 1112” deck screws.
Party SheLter • 179
Cut side fascia boards
to span between the
gable-end fascia boards.
Fasten to the ends of
the rafter tails with 6d
galvanized casing nails.
, I
I
~ Gable-end
fascia
Side fascia
Step M: Install the Metal
M Roofing
NOTE: Follow the instruction provided by the
manufacturer when installing metal roofing.
J. Lay the first roof pane l across the purl ins and
position it so the finished edge of the panel extends
approximately 2" beyond th e gable-end fascia, and 2"
past th e side fascia.
2. Drive I " roofing screws with rubber washers
through the roof panel into the purlins. Space th e
fasteners according to the manufacturer's directions.
NOTE: Do not drive screws into the portion of
the panel that will be overlapped by the next panel.
3. Install the subsequent panels, overlapping each
preceding panel according to the manufacturer's
directions. Work from one gable end to the other.
Install the final panel so the finished edge overhangs
the gable-end fascia by 2".
Step N: Install the Ridge Cap
1. Measure 61/4" down from the roof peak. Mark
the location for the pre-formed rubber sealer strip.
It should fall over th e center of th e starter purlin.
Mark a reference line along both sides of the entire
roof length.
2. Run a bead of exterior-grade silicone caulk
along the reference line, then install the sealer strip.Install metal roofing so each panel overlaps the preceding Install sealer strips to both sides of the peak. panel. Fasten to the purlins, using self-tapping screws with 3. Apply a caulk bead to th e top of th e sealer strip, rubber washers. then center the pre-formed metal ridge cap over the
180 • GAZEBO &ARBOR PROJECTS
peak so it overhangs th e finish ed edges of the gable- end roof panels by 2”. At each rib of the roof panels, drive 211.2” roofing screws with rubber washers through th e ridge cap, sealer strip , and roof pane l and into the starter purlins.
Step 0: Install the Gable Siding NOTE: Refer to the FRONT ElEVATION and the GABLE-END DETAIl. 1. At each gable end, measure along the end beam- from fascia board to fascia board- and cut a 2”-wide starter strip (ripped from a piece of siding) to length . Use a framin g sq uare or rafter sq uare to mark cutting lines on the ends to matc h the 6-in- 12 roof pitch, then ttim with a circ ular saw. Nail the strip to the end beam , flu sh with th e bottom edge, using 6d siding nails. 2. Measure and mark a cutting line that matches th e 6-in-12 roof pitch onto th e end of a scrap piece of siding, using a framing sq uare or a rafter square. C ut the siding at the roof pitch line, and Lise it as a tem- plate to mark siding for cutting. 3. Measure, mark, and cut the first piece of siding to length . Place the siding over the starter strip, over- lapping the bottom 1/4”. Faste n with pairs of 6d siding nails, spaced evety 12” . With 8’ material , yo u may need two pieces (and you’ll center the joint). 4. C ut the next siding board so it overlaps the one below, creating a co nsiste nt reveal (amount of exposed siding). Be sure to keep the siding level. Co ntinue to cut and install siding pieces until reach- ing the peak of the gable. Attach sealer strips (INSET) near the roof peak with a bead of S. Seal all exposed lag screw heads and cOLinter- caulk, then drive screws at each rib in the roof panels to secure bored hol es with silico ne caulk. Finish as desired. the ridge cap.
Cut siding so each
piece overlaps the
previous to create a
consistent reveal.
Install siding up to the
gable peak.
Party SheLter • 181
connecting arbors with a traditional arch design creates
an elegant border that frames the view beyond.I Wall of Arbors W ith a wall of arb ors , eac h arbor is self- thi s is a good projec t to start with- th e size is man- supporting ye t easil y links to additi onal agea bl e, a nd th e joints don ‘t h ave to be wa te rt ight. arbors to c rea te a nything from a pairing If yo u mess up a joint, you can al ways re hea t th e to a bound aLY wall. Planted with roses or fl owering solder, pop off th e fittin gs, and start over. Wh ere vines, it becomes a luxuri ous orn a me ntal acce nt prec ision co unts is in th e alignm ent of th e co nn ec t- th at ca n serve as a ba rri e r or a welco min g e ntryway. in g T s, so th e arbors fit togeth er properl y. See page The arbor project beginning on page 183 is 234 for ste p-by-ste p instructions on c uttin g and made entire ly of copper. If yo u’re new to solderin g, solde ring co ppe r pipe .
1 82 • GAZEBO & A RBOR PROJ EC T S
cutting List
Description (No. finished pieces) Quantity/Size Material TOP of Arbor (8) 2” 1,-2” copper pipe Arch (8) 143/4 ” 1/2” copper pipe Arch (8) 15” 1,2” copper pipe First and last side panel (8) 8@20” 1,2” copper pipe First and last side panel (4) 4 @ 93/4 ” 1,-2” copper pipe Middle side panel (20) 20 @ 93/4 ” 1,2” copper pipe Arch horizontal (16) 191,2” 1,2” copper pipe Arch horizontal brace (4) 191,2” 1,2” copper pipe Pipe (5) 10 @ 10’ 1,2” copper pipe Dowel (4) 6-8” 3/8” dowel Jig cleats (2) at least 46” 1x 2 1” deck screws 8 Scraps (2) 1 @8’ 10 x 40” x 1,2” or thicker Plywood 1,2” elbows (8) 45° copper 1,2” elbows (4) 90° copper #3 rebar (4) 36” sections 1,2” tees (20), tee (12) copper Note: The measurements above are for two connected arbors.
2” 2” 15” 15”
19 1/1" 191/2"
3
9 //20” CONNECTING TEES 45 0 ELBOW
TEE
93/4" /
TEE
19 1/ /' 1918 '
93/4"20” f--- CONNECTING I Wall of Arbors TEES Plan 9 3 / /
191/ /' 19 112"9 3/4” 9 3/ 4”
I Wall of Arbors I wall of Arbors First & Last Middle Side Panel Side Panels
Wall of Arbors • 183I How to Build the Wall of Arbors Step A: Cut the Pipe & Build Step C: Solder the Leg a Support Jig Assemblies I. Measure, mark, and cut the copper pipe. Clean Disassemble the pieces and solder the joints and flux the pipes. in each leg assembly, working from the ground 2. To build a support jig, start with two scraps of up. When the joints are cool, set the plywood at least 10” wide and 35 to 40” long. Draw a assemblies aside. line down the center of each piece of plywood; then NOTE: In order to connect the arbors, it’s very drill two 3;8” holes, 20” apart along the line. Glue a 6 important that you solder the connecting tees so to 8” piece of dowel into each hole. they’re exactly perpendicular to the plane of the 3. On each of two I x 2s, draw a pair of marks leg assemblies. 421;2” apart. Lay the I x 2s across the pieces of ply- wood, aligning the marks on the I x 2s with the lines Step D: Construct the Arch on the plywood to set the exact spacing for the sides I. Working on a flat surface, connect two 14 3/4” of the arch. Secure the I x 2s to the plywood, using lengths of pipe, using a 90° elbow. Add a tee, then a I” screws. See photo D on page 184. 15” length of pipe to each side. Repeat to form a sec- ond, identical arch. step B: Construct the Leg 2. Slide a 45 ° elbow onto each dowel of the sup- Assemblies port jig, and then slide the legs of the arches onto I. To construct a first and last side panel , slide a those elbows. 93/4” length of pipe over each dowel, then alternate 3. Add 19 1;2” lengths of pipes between sets of tees and pipe as indicated (see photo B). tees, forming horizontal supports as shown 2. Fit 19 1;2” lengths of pipe between pairs of tees in the PLAN on page 183. to form horizontal supports. 4. Disassemble the pieces and build the 3. Construct a middle side panel following th e arch assembly, soldering as you go (see page235 ). MIDDLE SID E PANEL on page 183. When the joints are cool, set the assembly aside.
Make a support jig: attach pieces of dowel to scraps of Dry fit the leg assemblies: alternate pipe and tees to form the plywood, then use 1 x 2s as spacers to set the distance legs, and then add horizontal supports. between the sides of the jig.
184 • GA ZE BO & A RBOR PROJ ECTS
5. Put the leg assemblies back onto the support jig digging any holes or driving anything deep intoand fit the arch assembly into place; solder the joints. the soil (see page 21). 6. Repeat Steps B, C, and 0 to build as many 3. Fit two legs of the arbor over the buried rebar, arbors as necessaty. firmly anchoring it in place.
Step E: Install the First Arbor Step F: Connect the Remaining 1. If you’re building a wall of arbors, use stakes Arbors and string to create a straight line for positioning of I. Flux the ends of a 19 112” piece of pipe as well the arbors. Set the arbors in place, 19 112” apart and as the connecting tees on the inside faces of the aligned with the string. first two arbors. Set the second arbor into place, 2. Push down on the sides of the first arbor to aligned with th e strings and 19 112” from the inside mark the position of the legs on the ground; remove face of th e first arbor. Add th e hori zo ntal braces the arbor. At two opposite corners, drive a 3-ft. that connect the a rbors. piece of re bar about 18” into the ground . 2. Mark th e leg positions and anchor two legs on CAUTION: Buried utility lines are dangerous. th e second arbor with rebar. Have your provider mark the utilities before 3. Solder the joints on the horizontal braces. 4. Repeat this process to install the remaining arbors.
Disassemble the pieces and solder each joint, working from using 90° elbows, pipe, and tees, build the arch assemblies. the ground up. Connect the arches with horizontal braces.
Position the first arbor, and press its legs into the ground to Position and anchor the second arbor. Add horizontal braces, mark their positions. At two opposite corners, drive 36” pieces then solder them into position. of rebar 18” into the ground. Slide the arbor over the rebar.
Wall of Arbors • 185I Freestanding Arbor fr ees tandin g arbo r is a grea t project for th e ma kin g it a ni ce compl em ent to a n atura l wood
A wo rkshop. Wh en you're don e with con-
stru cti on , yo u ca n move th e arbor a ny-
wh ere yo u like . Pe rch it at th e edge of yo ur ga rden
dec k or a C ra ft s ma n-s tyle ho u se (of co urse out in
th e gard en anything goes, stylewise ). If you pl an
to p aint th e arbor, yo u ca n save m on ey by usin g
as an entryway, or an c hor it to yo ur dec k and add press ure- trea ted lumbe r in stead of ceda r. For
so me boa rd s fo r built-in be nc h sea tin g. safety, it's a good idea to an ch or th e arb or with
T h e arb or on page 188 is buil t e nt irely of sta kes to p revent stron g winds, or yo ur kid s,
cedar, givin g it a di stin c tive As ian stylin g and fro m tippin g it ove r.186 • GA ZE BO & A RBOR PROJECTS
A portal-shaped arbor is a classic garden ornament as shown in these three structures that were inspiration for our project (page 188). Adding your own details to the overhead beams and side frames is an easy way to personalize your creation .
Freestanding Arbor • 187
I Material List
Description
(NO. finished pieces) Quantity/Size Material
Posts
Leg fronts (4) 4 @ 8' 2 x 4" Cedar
Leg sides (4) 4 @ 8' 2 x 4" Cedar
Cross beams (2) 1 @ 8' 2 x 4" Cedar
TOp beams (2) 2 @ 8' 2 x 6" Cedar
Side Panels 2 @ 8' 2 x 6" Cedar
Side rails (2) 1 @ 8' 2 x 4" Cedar
Side spreaders (2) 1 @ 8' 2 x 6" Cedar
Roof
Trellis strips (9) 5 @ 8' 1 x 2" Cedar
Cross strips (15) 5 @ 10" 1 x 2" Cedar
10 @ 7"
Braces (4) 1 @ 8' 2 x 6" Cedar
Hardware & Fasteners
#10 x 21/2" galvanized wood screws
3/8 " -dia . x 21/2" galvanized lag screws 8
6" galvanized lag screws 4
2112 " deck screws
3" deck screws
I Freestanding Arbor
Trellis Insert
00
lrl
lrl
a,
a, -
~
<:t-
lrl
lrl
001 88 • GAZE BO &A RBOR PROJ ECTS
6'-0"
v V
/ /
2"
--:/ L V- 2X4 CROSS BEAM IN
~
FRONT LEG NOTCH, , …, ‘N I’ ;::0, , I” / V)
, I" U '" lJ
l 2,
-
N
~
I'
~
2X6TOP BEAM
N""I
, ~ 2X4 LEG FRONT
"
W/TOPNOTCH
~ BRACE
N
I FreestandingArbor
Front Elevation
~
~
"?
V)
9V)
I Freestanding Arbor
Side Elevation, , , ” ’” ” CROSS STRIP
TRELLIS STRIP
3'-0"
2X6TOP BEAM
BRACE
I Freestanding Arbor
Brace Detail
1 3/4" RADIUS END CUT
2X4 CROSS BEAM
"---- 2X4 LEG FRONT
....- ' - - - 2X4 LEG SIDE
r
v ~ M---ti-"?-- TRELLIS INSERT
M
f.. N
~
"" t - 1'- " R DIUs
,
V)
'"
N
\ ~
\ V)
I')
GRID SHOWN= 1" t:'. ->k------l 1---'-----'--1 2X6 SPREADER
~
N""I +-----j J--r---rlN-
2X4 SIDE RAIL
Freestand ing Arbor • 189
" "
I Freestanding Arbor
Leg Plan
'---- 2X4 LEG FRONT
' - - - 2X4 LEG SIDE
, . . - - - 1'-1 " RADIUS
~-- 2X6
3 1/2" 31 /2"
, S'I'
~,
"-2"
I" I" , 1-9"
31 /2" 3 1/2"
1 1/2" 1'-2" 1 1/2"
I Spreader
Freestanding Arbor
Detail
1'-0"
" " 3" 3"
" " 9
0-
"-
" "
"-
,J
m
f-- f-- L
";'
0-
"I"
\=
~
2X4 CROSS BEAM
2X4 LEG SIDE
~ "-
BRACE
"" CROSS STRIP
~ "
Co " ~ TRELLIS STRIPI Freestanding Arbor “I’ ~ 2X6 TOP BEAM Roof Plan
rl
r.;,
"
0-
" I'-
f-- t--
J
9
0-
" 1/
6"
V
1'-9"
V
6"
V
/ / / /
"I'- "I'-190 • GA ZE BO & A RBO R PR OJECTS
I How to Build the Freestanding Arbor Step A: Make the Legs spreader (see SPREADER DETAIL, pageI90). To mark the cutting lines, draw starting points 3112” in 1. Cut the leg fronts and leg sides to length at 72” from each end of a spreader. Make a reference line each. Position the leg sides at right angles to the leg 2” up from the bottom of the spreader board. Tack a fronts, with their top and bottom edges flush. Apply casing nail on the reference line, centered between moisture-resistant glue to the joint. Attach the leg the ends of the side spreader. With the spreader fronts to the leg sides by driving evenly spaced 2 112” clamped to the work surface, also tack nails into the screws through the faces of the leg fronts and into work surface next to the start/end points lines on the the edges of the leg sides. side spreader. Slip a thin strip of metal or plastic 2. Us e a jigsaw to cut a 3 1a “-long x 2”-wide notch between the casing nails so the strip bows out to cre- at the top outside corner of each leg front. These ate a smooth arc. Trace the arc onto the side spread- notches cradle the cross beams when the arbor is er, then cut along the line with a jigsaw. Sand assembled. smooth. Use the first spreader as a template for marking the second spreader. Cut and sand the sec- step B: Cross beams, Rails, & ond spreader. Spreaders 3. Cut the side rails to length at 21”.
1. Cut cross beams to length. Cut a small arc atboth ends of each cross beam. Start by using a com- Step C: Assemble the Side pass to draw a 3 1a”-diameter semicircle at th e edge Frames of a strip of cardboard. Cut out the semicircle, and 1. Lay two leg assemblies parallel on a work sur- use the strip as a template for marking the arcs. Cut face, with the notched board in each leg facing up. out the arcs with a jigsaw. Sand the cuts smooth. Space the legs so the inside faces of the notched 2. Cut two side spreaders to length at 21”. The boards are 21” apart. Set a 36”-long cross beam into spreaders fit just above the side rails on each side. the notches, overhanging each leg by 6”. Also set a side Mark a curved cutting line on the bottom of each spreader and a side rail between the legs for spacing.
Create four legs by
fastening leg sides to leg
fronts at right angles.
Frees tanding A rbor • 191
2. Drill 3;8" pilot holes in the cross beam. Attach arcs on the spreaders, draw 11;2 "-deep arcs at the
the cross beam to each leg with glue. Drive two top edges of the top beams, starting at the ends of
3;8 "-dia. X 21;2" lag screws through the cross beam each of the boards.
and into each leg. 2. Cut the arcs with a jigsaw, and sand the edges
3. Position the side spreader between the legs so smooth with a drum sander.
the top is 29 1;2" up from the bottoms of the legs.
Position the side rail so the top is IS" up from the leg Step F: Assemble Top & Sides
bottoms. Drill counterbored pilot holes in the spread-
I. Mark a centerpoint for a lag screw 123/4" from
er and rail. Keeping the legs parallel, attach the
each end of each top beam. Dlill a W' pilot hole
pieces with glue and drive 3" deck screws through
through the top edge at the centerpoint. Set the top
the outside faces of the legs and into the ends of the
beams on top of the cross beams of the side frames.
side rail and side spreader.
Mark the pilot hole locations onto the cross beams.
Remove the top beams and drill pilot holes into the
Step D: Attach the Side Trellis cross beams. Secure the top beams to the cross
Pieces beams with 6" lag screws.
I. Cut three vertical trellis strips to length for 2. Cut four braces to length , and transfer the
each side frame. Space them so they are 2 3;8" apart, brace cutout pattern to each board. Cut the patterns
with the ends flush with the top of the cross beam. with a jigsaw. Attach the braces at the joints where
2. Drill counterbored pilot holes to attach trellis the inside faces of the legs meet the top beams, Llsing
strips to the cross beam and side spreader with 2\12" deck 2 1;2" deck screws.
screws. Repeat the procedure for the other side frame. 3. Because the side frames are fairly heavy and
bulky, you will need to brace them in an upright posi-
Step E: Shape Top Beams & tion to fasten the top beams between them. Using a
pair of 1 x 4 braces, connect the tops and bottoms of
Shape the Sides the side frames.
I. Cut two top beams to length at 72" each. 4. Cut and attach three trellis strips (each at
Following the same technique used to create the 4S" ) between the top beams.A piece of cardboard acts as a lag-screw the cross beams to the legs, Attach trellis strips to the cross brace template when you trace the outline for and fasten the spreaders and rails with and spreader with deck screws. the arc on the cross beams. deck screws to assemble the side frames.
192 • GA ZE BO & A RBOR PROJ ECTS
step G: Add Trellis Cross strips 1. C ut th e cro ss strips to 7” and 10” length s. Fo r eac h side, add on e 10 ” strip to th e side trelli s pi eces, a few in ch es down fr om th e c ro ss bea ms, using 21;2” woo d screws dri ve n thro ugh pil ot holes. 2. Attac h th e first 7” strips below th e 10” strips at 3” interva ls, stagge ring th e pattern as desired (photo G) . You ca n adjust th e sizes and place ments of the cross strips, but for best appearance, retain some symm etry of placement. 3. Fasten 10” cro ss strips to the to p trellis strips. Center th e cross strips on th e trellis strips, and space th e cross s trip s at 3” inte rva ls to matc h th e side deta ils. 4. Finish th e projec t as desired. OPTION: Create an outdoor seat by installing two 2 x 10 cedar boards on top the side rails of the frame. Overhang the rails by 6” or so, and attach the seat boards to the rails with 3” deck screws.
Use long pieces of 1 x 4 to brace the side frames in an
upright, level position while you attach the top beams.Lock the legs in a square position after assembling the arbor Attach the trellis cross strips to spice up the design and assist by tacking strips of wood between the front and back legs. climbing plants.
Freestanding Arbor • 193I Trellis Gate vine-filled trellis forms a charming garden foliage growth. For plantings, choose perennials
A entryway. With a built-in gate, a tre llis is
perfect for e nclosing a space while adding
tasteful decoration. The human scale and simple
rather than annuals, since they will produce more
luxurious growth over time.
Traditional wrought iron gate hardware adds a
ornamentation of th e project on page 197 make it nice complement to a painted gate. Ornamental
a welcoming en try without taking over yo ur ya rd. If Victorian brackets like those used here are available
you want your trellis gate to span an existing open- at home centers or through architectural supply
ing, you can easily adjust th e width of the gate and houses (see page 236). You might also hunt for some
length of the trellis tie beams to fit yo ur space. unique hardware and decorative pieces at architec-
The trellis gate is bes t suited to a location where tural salvage dealers.
it receives plenty of sunlight to ensure abundant194 • GAZEBO &ARBOR PROJECTS
., .,"
...,
,
I·
I
• I •Three variations on our trellis gate design offer inspiration for custom styling: classical profiles cut into the beam ends of this trellis (left) lend a stately, traditional quality; an arched overhead section (right) changes the look dramatically, adding a fanciful touch; stout, unfinished posts and a simplified construction (below) give this garden entrance a rustic feel.
Trellis Cate • 195
I Cutting List
Description
(No. finished pieces) Quantity/Size Material
Foundation
Gate posts (2) 2 @ 8' pressure-treated 4 x 4
Concrete field measure
Concrete tube forms (2) field measure 12" dia.
Gravel field measure compactable gravel
Frames
Horizontal braces (2) 12" 2x 2
(8) 15¥4 " 2x 2
(6) 33" 2x 2
Vertical braces (4) 17" 2x 2
(2) 541/2" 2x 2
Trell is posts (4) 87 1/2" 2x4
Victorian millwork brackets (2)
Stop (1) 461/2" 1x2
TOP
Tie beams (2) 2x4
Rafters (4) 33" 2x 2
Stakes (2) 24" pressure-treated
or composite
Gate
Frame top/ bottom (2) 401/2" 2x4
Frame vertical (2) 2x4
Diagonal brace (1) 491/2" 2x4
Pickets (7) 451/4" 1x4
(2) 451/4" 1x6
Fasteners
3" corrosion-resistant lag screws
11/2 " corrosion-resistant deck screws
21/2" corrosion-resistant deck screws
6d corrosion-resistant finish nails
11/4" corrosion-resistant deck screws
Hinge hardware
Gate handle
Flexible PVC pipe 52 1/2"196 • GAZE BO &A RBOR PROJ ECT S
Trellis Cate • 197
6'-03/4"
IL /
/ /
/1'-0"
31/2"
1/1/
/1 /
3'-53/4" 3 1/2"
1/ ,/'-
l' 0"
/ I Trellis Gate
/
, /11 /
Front ElevationI’ ’—.. ,[, ---’ ’” ’” N ~
""
~ 2X4 TIE BEAM
112 LAP JOINT
2X4 POST
, ~ V
I'
r- "" -- ,----/
r-
- -
c:..-.
GATE HINGE
::t
Cf'
M
~
-
...--- -- ----
V
-- 7
~
,/
1X4 GATE PICKETS
1X6 GATE PICKETS
~
4X4 GATE POST
~,, , c:r 2’-9” / 1/ / /
1.9 112" 1./ 11-0" 101
'} /2"
,
1/
I I I I
N
~
2X2 RAFTERS
, "", /
I'
I Trellis Gate
",
,
. ',
, ------
'" ""
2X4 TIE BEAM WI 112 LAP
JOINT CONNECTION TO POST
2X2 HORIZONTAL
Side Elevation ";>
-
<!"
~
M ,/ BRACE
'" ,
--
, /
2X2 VERTICAL
I' " ~ BRACE
'"'" ,
;;"
2X4 TRELLIS POST WI
112 LAP JOINT ATTOP
:-1'-33/4" 1'-3 3/4"
d~
/
J~ GATE BEYOND
N
~
, -- 4X4 GATE POST
'"'" "
,
d~ " ~
/
~ 2X2 HORIZONTAL
BRACE
/'
,
, ",
'" "198 • GAZEB O &A RBOR PROJ ECTS
3'-41 /2"
I Trellis Gate 2X4 HORIZONTAL BRACE
Framing Elevation 2X4 VERTICAL BRACE
2X4 DIAGONAL BRACE
2X4 HORIZONTAL BRACE
~ ~;:;:; -+
"I",,- - L 2X4 POST '---- 4X4 GATEPOST
'----- 2X4 POST-…’""" 9 ~ "" ”;’ M
I Trellis Gate
Post Plan
1 1/2" 21-9" 1 1/2"
I Trellis Gate
,
Roof Plan
"- " "-
9;.... ~ 2X41lEBEAM
GATE POST BELOW
~ ~
~ "i" "- t=
I"-
\
5' 2X2 HORIZONTAL
BRACE
/--;
"
C:!
.,-
" 2X2 RAFTERS
;....
/ GATEBELOW
"I' V
---
V f--
~
5>
,
I'
I v
2X2 HORIZONTAL
V- BRACE
GRID SHOWN = 1"
~
/
G GATE POST BELOW
I Trellis Gate 5' 1/
2'-9"
Tie Beam End Detail , /
"- "I'-
Trellis Ca te • 199
I How to Build the Trellis Gate
Step A: Install the Gate Posts Step B: Anchor the Frame to
& Assemble the Trellis Frames the Gate Posts
1. Set 4 x 4 gate posts in concrete; foll ow th e pro- 1. Referrin g to th e POST PLAN on page 199 and
cedure shown on page 220 (c hec k with th e local to your own gate meas ure ments, mark th e positions
building departm ent for reco mme ndation s on ga te- of the trelli s fra me on the ground , using stakes and
pos t de pth ). Position th e posts so th e ir inside faces string. Make sure th e layo ut is squ are by measuring
are 41 3/4" apart, and make sure they are perfec tly from corner to corner and adjusting th e stakes until
plumb. If you desire a broader or narrower ga te, th ese di agonal measurements are equal.
determin e th e gate width , th en add 1 V4" to th at 2. On a fl at surface, layo ut a ll of th e pi eces fo r
dim ension to find th e inside pos t spacing (thi s leaves b oth sides of th e trellis (to make sure everything
a 5Al" gap at either side of th e gate) . fit s and th e assembli es are sq uare). Refer to
2. C ut all of th e pieces for th e trellis gate . For E LEVATION D ETA ILS, pages 198 to 199. Drill
those building a custom width, make the ti e beam s pilot h oles, and fas ten th e pi eces toge th er with
for th e trellis about 32" longer th an th e width of 21;2" galvani zed dec k screws at eac h joint. Do n ot
the gate . attach th e ti e bea ms in thi s ste p.
3. Mark th e cut s for the half-lap joints on th e 3. Set one trellis frame into position , with the
ti e beam s and trelli s p os ts; foll ow th e F RO N T in side face of th e frame flu sh wi th th e inside face of
E LEVATIO N on p age 198 . Set a c irc ul ar saw to a the gate post. Drive a 24 " press ure- trea ted stake
depth of 3/4". Cut fir st on your layout m arks, th en behind th e opposite side of th e frame to hold the trel-
ma ke a cut a bout every IAl" in be tween. Remove lis in position. Drill three evenly spaced pilot holes
th e waste wood a nd smooth th e la p surface with a through the fra me and in to th e gate post. Attach the
sh arp chi sel. frame to the post, using 3" lag screws.
Cut and layout the pieces for each side of the trellis frame, Position the trellis frames, clamping them against the gate
then secure each joint with 2112" corrosion-resistant deck posts. Attach the frames to the gate posts with 3" lag screws.
screws. INSET: Set the blade depth on a circular saw to 3/4 " .
Make the joint, then make a cut every 118 " to 1/4" in the joint
area. Remove the waste material, using a chisel.2 00 • GAZEBO &A RBOR PROJECTS
4. Repeat # 1 and #2 to attach the other trellisframe to th e opposite post. 5. Make a cardboard template for the shaped ends of the tie beams; follow the TIE BEAM DETAIL on page 199. Transfer the shape onto th e ends of the tie beams. Cut out the shapes using a jig- saw or bandsaw, and sand th e contours smooth. 6. Paint, stain, and/or seal the pieces as desired. Coat all sides and edges, and allow the finish to thoroughly dry
Step C: Secure the Free Trellis Posts I. Measure between the frame sides to make sure they are parallel and square to the plane of the posts. 2. Drive a 24”-long stake behind each unattached trellis post, measure again for square, then anchor the stakes to the posts with lag screws driven through pilot holes.
Step 0: Install the Tie Beams 1. Position a tie beam Rush with the top of the square the trellis frames, then secure the free end of each posts. Clamp the beam into place and drill pilot holes frame to a stake, using a lag screw.
Clamp the tie beams to the trellis posts, then attach with Attach four evenly spaced rafters between the tie beams, five 11/4” corrosion-resistant deck screws at each joint. usi ng 21/2” corrosion-resistant deck screws.
Trellis Cate • 201
through it and into eac h post. Drive five 1V4" corro- corner, resting against the gate fram e. Mark th e
sion-resistant deck screws into each joint to attach angle of the cutting lines , then cut the brace to
the tie beam to the posts. fit, using a circular saw. Use 2 V2" corrosion-resist-
2. Repeat # 1 to install the remaining tie beam. ant deck screws to secure th e diagonal
brace into position.
Step E: Attach the Rafters
Hold a 2 x 2 rafter in position between the ti e
Step H: Add the Pickets
bea ms, flush with th e tops of th e bea ms. Drill pilot I. Clamp a 2 x 4 across the bottom of th e frame
holes through the tie beams, one into each end of the to act as a reference for the length of the pickets (see
rafter; secure the rafter with 2l,2" corrosion-resistant photo H). Position the pickets flush with th e lower
deck screws. Repeat, placing a tota l of four eve nly edge of th e c lamped 2 x 4.
spaced rafters across the span of the tie beams. 2. Align the right edge of a 1 X 6 picket flush with
th e right edge of th e fram e. Drill pilot hol es and
Step F: Add the Trim attach th e siding to the frame, using 11;2" corrosion-
resistant deck screws.
Set a mill work bracket into place at each of the cor-
3. Set scraps of 5;8" pl)"vood in place as spacers,
ners betwee n th e ti e beams and the trellis posts. Drill
th e n add a second I x 6 picket. Continuing to use
pilot hol es and secure the brackets, using finish nails.
the 5;8" plywood as spacers, cover the remainder of
th e frame with 1 x 4 pickets.
step G: Build the Gate Frame
1. Layout th e parts of the gate frame and meas ure Step I: Hang the Gate
from one corner to the diagonall y opposite corner.
1. Measure and mark th e hinge positions on th e
Repeat at the opposite corners. Adjust the pieces
gate. Drill pilot hol es and drive screws to secure the
until th ese meas ureme nts are eq ual, mea ning th e
hinges to the gate.
frame is square. Secure each joint, using 2l,2" corro-
2. Shim the gate into position, centered within
sion-resistant deck screws.
th e opening. Use a carpenter's level to make sure th e
2. Measure again for squareness, th e n position
gate is level and plumb. Mark the hinge-side post to
the 2 x 4 diagonal brace so it runs from corner toAdd millwork brackets at each corner where the tie beams Layout the gate frame pieces, check for square, and secure and the trellis frame posts meet. Secure with finish nails. the joints with 2112” corrosion-resistant deck screws. Mark and cut the diagonal brace, then screw it in place, using 2112” corrosion-resistant deck screws.
202 • GAZEBO &ARBOR PROJECTS
gate is level and plumb. Mark th e hinge-side post to indicate th e hinge sc rew loca ti ons, th en drill pilot holes . Fasten the hinges to the post, using the screws provided with the hin ge hardwa re. 3. Mark th e position of the stop. Drill pilot holes and sec ure th e stop to th e post, using 11;2” corrosion- res ista nt deck sc rews .
step J: Shape the Pickets & Add the Gate Handle 1. C ut a pi ece of fl exible PVC pipe 52(,2” long (or 12” lo nger than th e wid th of yo ur ga te) . C lamp the PVC at th e top of the outside edges of th e last pic ket on eac h side of th e gate. 2. Tac k a nail just above th e to p of th e frame at th e cen ter of th e gate . If thi s happens to be betwee n two pi c kets, set a wood scrap be hind th e picke t to hold th e nail. Adju st the PVC until it fi ts just below th e nail and creates a pleasing curve. 3. Trace th e c urve of the PVC onto th e pickets. Remove th e pipe and c ut along th e marked line, using a jigsaw. Sand the tops of th e pickets and fini sh as necessary. 4. Ma rk the handl e locati on on the ga te. Drill Clamp a 2 x 4 across the bottom of the gate frame as a guide, then attach the pickets. Begin with two 1 x 6s on the pilot holes and secure the handl e, using th e screws hinge side, then finish with 1 x 4s. Use scraps of 5/8” plywood provided by th e manufac turer. as spacers.
- ..Clamp a 1 x 2 stop to the latch-side gate post and secure Clamp the ends of a length of PVC pipe at each end of the with 11;2” corrosion-resistant deck screws. gate top. Bend the pipe down to create the curve, and trace. Cut the pickets to shape, using a jigsaw.
Trellis Cate • 203
IThe Nuts & Bolts icked a project? T hi s c hapter will help yo u get sta rt-
P ed on the practical matters of shopping for mate ria ls and learn ing so me bas ic co nstru ction skill s. When you begin the bui lding process, look here for detailed steps on certain proced ures, like bui lding foundation s and install ing roofs.
In This Section • Buying Lumber • Finishes for Outdoor Projects • Other Building Materials • Hardware & Fasteners • Tools • Building Foundations • Cutting Roof Rafters • Roofing • Working with Copper Pipe
The Nuts is Bolt s • 205
Pressure-treated
PineI Buying Lumber T here are a few choices of lumber for outdoor redwood, anything but stainless steel , aluminum , and building projects. Availability varies by loca- galvanized hardware will stain the wood, and even tion, but generally the options are redwood , galvanized hardware may produce some discoloration. cedar, and pressure-treated pine. All of these share Both cedar and redwood are available with rough one vital characteristic: they are resistant to rot and or smooth surfaces. For example, S4S cedar is milled insects. Standard lumber, such as untreated pine, is smooth on all four sides; S2S is smooth on two sides too vulnerable to decay and infestation for use on and rough on two sides. A rough surface can add to outdoor structures. the lumber’s actual dimensions, so you might have to adj ust your measurements accordingly. Redwood The best all-around lumber for outdoor applica- Pressure-treated lumber tions, redwood is beautiful, strong, and easy to work Typically, treated pine or fir lumber is chemically with. It’s also expensive. Redwood is naturally treated to stand up to outdoor exposure. It’s the resistant to rot and insects. However, only all-heart least expensive option but is a perfectly suitab le (heartwood) redwood is suitable for ground contact. material, if not the most attractive. Redwood comes in two basic classifications: Most treated lumber has a greenish color result- heartwood, from the inner portion of the tree; and ing from the chemica l treatment, but you might sapwood, from the tree’s outer layers. Heartwood is prefer the brownish version, if available. Both types harder, darker, and generally more attractive than weather to a silvelY gray. For parts that wiJ] be on or sapwood. Of course, it also costs more. Because with in 12” of the ground, use only lumber rated for redwood is availab le in severa l grades, you can use “G roun dC on tact. ” less expensive cuts on inconspicuous areas of your Because of its strength and affordability, treated project and spend more for the critical parts. lumber is a good option for the concealed structura l Redwood has a high tannin content and wi ll turn parts of a project. You can still use redwood or black if it contacts hardware containing iron. To cedar- or even a higher quality treated lumber- prevent black stains and streaks, use only stainless for the more visib le parts, and no one’s the wiser. steel; aluminum; or high quality, ga lvanized steel hardware. Stainless steel offers the best protection, Arsenic and old lumber but it is the most expensive. Prior to 2004, most pressure-treated lumber was treated with CCA (chromated copper arsenate ), Cedar which contains arsenic. The lumber industry is now Cedar, specifically western red cedar, has many using non-arsenic treatments for all residential-use of the same properties as redwood. It’s attractive, lumber. However, as in the old days, it’s recom- lightweight, easy to work with , and naturally rot- mended that you wear a dust mask when cutting resistant. It’s also available in heartwood and sap- treated lumber. Never burn the scraps. wood, the former being the higher quality. As with 206 • TH E N UTS & BOLTS
Finishes for Outdoor Projects I
StainR edwood, cedar, and pressure-trea ted lumber all change to a weathered gray There are three classes of stain: transpare nt, semi- over time. But finishing th e wood he lps transparent, and solid-body. “Exterior” formulas it to look better, longer; it also helps inhibit typically offer some UV protec tion, but for the most mildew and fungal growth and makes it more part, transpare nt stain do es littl e more than color resistant to water damage. Unfortunately, no the wood. single finish does it all. In fact , the only finish Semi-transparent stain is a thicker version, offer-ing that truly protec ts wood from discoloration is a a littl e more protec tion from th e sun. It pe netrates th e well-maintained paint job. wood, like transparent stain, leaving the wood’s texture Thus, the paradox of outdoor finishes: clear intact but producing a more finishes expose th e wood’s natural beauty but co nsistent pigmented color. leave it more vulnerable to the damaging effects Solid-body (or solid- of the sun. Heavier and less transparent finish- color) stains are a cross es provide more UV protec tion but obscure the between stain and paint. wood’s natural coloring. Like paint, th ey form Here is an ove rview of the basic types of an opaque film ove r the finish es. For more information about yo ur spe- surface, yet they allow cific application, contact the finish manufac- more of th e wood’s tex- turer. The lumber resources on page 236 also ture to show. Solid-body have h e lpful tips on protec ting redwood, cedar, stains come in latex and and southern yello w pine. oi I-based ve rsions. The California Redwood Clear Finishes Association recommends Wate r repe llants (or water sealers) are clear, oil-based stain for red- wax-based liquids that seal the woo d’s pores to wood. inhibit water damage. Some include a mildew- cide and/or a fungicide for added protec tion in Paint damp areas (check the manufacturer’s recom- Paint is th e most durable Rough cedar with mendations about using these formulas on solid-body stain outdoor finish and th e bes t seats, tabl es, and other direct-contact surfaces). at hiding unsightly wood. Clear finishes with a UV-blocking formula You’d be nuts to spend the will slow discoloration and sun bleaching extra mon ey on redwood somewhat but won’t do much in th e long run. or cedar just to cover it The wax wears off, and water-repellant finish es with paint, but press ure- must be rea ppli ed eve ry 1 to 2 years. trea ted lumber is anoth er Clear varnish, such as polyurethane , spar story. However, because varnish, and marin e varnish, form a sealed treated lumber often con- laye r on top of th e wood. As th e wood expands tains a lot of water when and contracts, an inflexible varnish may crack you buy it, make sure it’s and peel. For this reason, many experts reco m- dry before painting. me nd against va rnish for outdoor proj ec ts. Buying Lumber • 207
lattice panels (above) are bought in sheets but can be cut to size using a circular saw with a carbide-tipped blade. For decorative curved cuts use a jigsaw or a reciprocating saw with a fine-toothed blade.
There are many ways to incorporate materials into a finished project. Here, bamboo screens are hung by simp le hooks to add texture and shade (right).
208 • T H E NUTS & BOLTS
Other Building Materials I Bamboo G arde ns and outdoor roo ms have always inspired creative uses of materi a ls. While ply- wood is great for storage sheds, gaze bos and One of nature’s mos t ve rsatile building materi als, ga rden spaces ca ll for something more c harming or bamboo is a woody grass with a tough outer laye r th at un exp ec ted. H ere are just a few ideas for expanding needs no protec tive fini sh. It’s al so naturall y rot- yo ur materi als li st. resistant. A ba mboo mat or series of spaced poles is grea t for adding extra shade to an overh ead or to c re- Lattice ate a privacy screen. Light filtering through bamboo creates a wa rm, sun -dappled interior. Prefabrica ted lattice pane ls provide in stant stru cture Bamboo is ava il able from importers and domesti c without totally enclosing a space . T hey’re commonly growers in a hu ge va ri ety of species, colors, textures, ava il able in cedar and redwood, in diago nal a nd and si zes (Reso urces, page 236). You ca n order any- squ are patte rn s. Lattice is a lso ava il able in low-main - thing from pre-c ut and asse mbled grass mats to split te nance plas ti c or vinyl that ca n be painted or left slats to indi vidual poles up to 6” in di ameter. Bamboo bare. Most wood latti ce comes in 4 X 8-ft. panels, in is usually asse mbl ed and sec ured with ru st-proof 12”, 3/4”, and 1” total pane l thi ckn esses. wire, but supplie rs also carry rope , raffia, and oth er Wood latti ce panel s are made up of indi~ du a l slats ti e materi als for crea ting va rious tradition al and cus- stapled and so metimes glued together and are actually tom e ffec ts. fairly strong as a fl at barrier. T hey should never be Like tree lumbe r, bamboo weath ers to a sil velY used for structural support, howeve r. Loo k for lattice gray. You ca n slow thi s process somewhat by appl yi ng with we ll -concealed staples and uniform slats. a wax or liquid fl oo r polish. C hec k with th e suppli e r “‘he n wo rkin g with latti ce, mark yo ur c uts with about wo rking with and maintaining your specific a c ha lk lin e, and use a circ ul ar saw with a ca rbide- type of bamboo. tipped bl ade to make th e cuts . You ca n c ut ri ght through th e stapl es, but make sure to wea r safety glasses . Fo r c urved c uts, you ca n use a ji gsaw or a rec iproca tin g saw with a fin e- tooth ed bl ade to minimi ze splinte rin g. Fas te n latti ce pane ls with na il s or screws dri ve n through pilot holes to pre- ve nt splitting th e wood .
Copper Pipe Co pper is great for outdoor projects. It never rusts or co rrodes, it develops a beautiful patin a over tim e, and it assembl es like a toy constructi on set. Your local hardwa re store or home center carri es copper pipe in rigid and fl exible form s, ra ngin g upwa rd from W’ in diameter. To build with copper, simply join length s of pipe with copper fittin gs and solde r th e pieces togeth er (see pages 23 4 to 23 5). C opper works we ll by itself, as in the Wa ll of Arbors (page 182), or integrated with a wood stru cture, as in th e Wood & Cop per You can build simple frames with rigid copper pipe, then use thin Arbor (page 64). flexible pipe and copper wire to create decorative accents.
Other Building Malerials • 209I HardV\Tare & Fasteners II hardware for outdoor projec ts must be Framing connectors A rust resistant. This in c ludes na il s , sc rews , hinges, nuts , and bolts-essentiall y any me ta l used for holdin g thin gs toge th e r. The most Some of the projects in this book calJ for framinob connec- tors-ga lvanized metal plates and fittin gs used to re in- force framing connections. All of the connectors called for co mm on type is ga lvani ze d stee l, whi c h has a zinc in th e plans are Simpson Strong-Tie®brand and are coa tin g or other trea tm e nt to prevent co rrosion. ide ntifi ed by a spec ifi c part numbe r. These connectors Aluminum and stainl ess steel hard wa re are natu- are commonly avail able at lumbelyards and home ce n- ra ll y rust-proof. te rs. If you ca n’t find what you need at th e store, tly For nails , us e hot-dipp ed ga lva ni ze d steel rather the manufacturer’s on line catalog (v”,vw.strongtie.co m). th a n th e smoother, elec troplated typ e. Hot-dipped You can also order custom-made connectors. fasteners are recogni za bl e by their rough, silver- IMPORTANT: Framing connectors and anchors co lored coating, whic h provides be tte r rust protec- are effective only when they are installed correct- tion th a n electroplating and is less like ly to stain ly, using the specified type and number of fasten- redwood and cedar. Stain less stee l fasteners are ers. If your nails are too thin, for example, the con- rea ll y th e on ly guaranteed protection against stain- nector might shear them off, setting your framing in g, but the cost us uall y makes th e m impractical free, Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. for a ll but the most critical a ppli ca tion s .
Commonly used framing connectors
and anchors include: Joist hanger (A),
angled joist hanger (B), rafter tie (C), post-
beam caps (D), stair cleat (E), hurricane tie
(F), post base assemb ly (G), joist tie (H).
and angle bracket (I).210 • TH E NUTS & BOLTS
Tools I ere’s a look at many of th e hand and powe r
H tool s m ention ed in this book.
Power Tools (right): Some power tools are essential, including the circular saw (A) and drill with keyless chuck (B). Others just make jobs a lot easier: the power miter saw (C) makes quick, accurate cuts at any angle; the reciprocating saw (D), the ultimate multipurpose saw, is easily portable and makes straight or curved cuts in almost any material, including heavy timbers; a jigsaw (E) is best for clean, detailed curved cuts in various materials, especially thin sheets and fragile products; a 1/2” hammer drill (F) is a heavy-duty drill with a hammering motion for effective drilling into masonry, stone, and concrete.
Hand Tools (below): These include standard carpentry tools-plus a few landscaping tools for digging ho les, ch ipping stone or concrete, and leveling the ground.
Rental & Landscape Tools (above): When you need
the big guns, it usually makes more sense to rent than to
buy. You might need any of these tools for clearing your
project site or building the foundation: power auger (A),
power tamper (B), power sod cutter (C), pick (D), weed
trimmer (E), come-along (F), and garden rake (G).
TooLs • 211I Building Foundations c lim ate a nd weather. [n Ar izo na , for exa mpl e ,
T
he two types of foundations used in the proj-
ec ts in this book are th e co nc rete pier and the found ati o n pi e rs don't need to be as deep as in
co nc rete sla b. Many of th e pl'ojects also M innesota, w he re th e ground mi ght freeze to a
in vo lve setting structura l posts in the gro und wit h depth of four feet eac h yea r. Hi gh w inds and poor
co ncrete , so that procedure is shown he re as we ll. soil are ot her factors th at must be acco unted for
Regardless of what th e p la ns in thi s book cal l o n a case-by-case basis.
for, yo ur foundation mu st co mpl y with the loca l REMEMBER: Have all your utility lines marked
bui lding codes. The ma in reaso ns for thi s are before you start digging into your yard (see page 21).I Concrete Pier Foundation A conc rete pier foundation co nsists of poured-con- ing th e structure sec ure ly planted in th e ea rth. Some c rete cylinde rs th at support wood posts. T he piers, or projects ca ll for pads made from pressure-treated 2x footings , a re th e sa me as those used for deck co n- lumbe r instead of posts. The pads are anchored to struction. T hey are easy to make using ca rdboard th e piers using J-bolts (inset photo, below). forms that you c ut to size . Co nstructing a pier foundation is not difficu lt To a nchor the posts to the footings , it’s best to work , but it’s important that the pier layout is acc u- use ga lvanized me tal post bases. There are sev- rate and th e conc rete form s are set properly. Use bat- era l easy-to- use adjustable types ava il ab le, te r boards and mason’s lines to layo ut the pier posi- which are secured to the footing by means ti ons and check you r work by takin g measurements of a J-bolt set into th e co ncrete. After and app lying so me simple geom etry. the concrete is dry, yo u bo lt down th e Before sta rting yo ur projec t, ask the loca l bui lding base, set a nd plumb th e post, and department about the required diam e ter a nd depth faste n th e post to the base. of your p ie rs and what type of post anchors to use. Jn Pie r foundations wo rk we ll for most areas, conc rete piers must extend into the gazebos because th ey allow ground below the frost line and stand at least 2” yo u to build an e levated above the ground to protect th e posts from moisture. fl oor whil e keep- Ca rdboard forms for piers are comm o nl y ava il a ble in 8”, 10”, 12” , a nd 16” diameters.
Tools &Materials Circular saw . Drill
Mason's line . Sledgehammer . Line level . Framing
square . Plumb bob . Shovel . Post hole digger
• Reciprocating saw or handsaw . Utility knife
• Ratchet wrench . 2 x 4 lumber . 2'/.1" screws
• Stakes . Nails . Masking tape . Cardboard concrete
forms . Paper . Concrete mix . J-bolts • Post bases
• Straight board . Wood sealer-preservative . Scrap
lumber for braces . Lag screws212 • TH E NUTS & BOLTS
Step A: Construct the Batter Boards I. C ut two 24”- lon g 2 X 4 legs for eac h batter boa rd (for mos t projects you’ll need e ight batter boa rds total). C ut one end square and c ut th e other end to a sharp point, usin g a circul ar saw. C ut one 2 x 4 cross piece for each batter boa rd at about 18”. 2. Assembl e eac h batter boa rd using 2 1;2” screws. Faste n th e crosspiece about 2” from the squ are ends of the legs. Make sure the legs are parall e l and th e cross piece is perpe ndi cular to th e legs.
step B: Set the Batter Boards Cut the batter board pieces from 2 x 4 lumber and & Establish Perpendicular assemble them with screws. Mason’s Lines I. Meas ure and mark th e loca tion s of th e pi ers with stakes, following your project plan. 2. Set two batter boards to form a corner about 18” behind eac h stake, as shown in th e illustration. Dri ve th e batter board s into the ground until th ey are sec ure, keeping the crosspieces roughly leve l with one anoth er. 3. Stretc h a mason’s line betwee n two batter boa rds at opposing corners (not di ago nall y) and ti e th e ends to nails driven into th e to p edge of th e cross- pieces; a li gn th e nails and line with the stakes . Attac h a line level to th e line, and pull th e line very taut, making sure it’s level before tyin g it. Tie the mason’s lines securely to the nails, and level 4. Run a seco nd level line perpe ndi cul ar to th e the lines with a line level (INSET LEFT). Use tape to mark first: Tie off th e end that’s closes t to th e first string, points on the lines (INSET RIGHT). th en stretc h th e line to the oppos in g batte r boa rd whil e a he lper holds a framing squ are at the intersec- ti on of th e lines. When th e lines are perpendi cular, C1 ., drive a nail and ti e off th e far end . S. Co nfirm th at th e lines are exac tl y pe rpendi c u- lar, using th e 3-4-5 method. Startin g at th e intersec- ti on, meas ure 3 ft. a long one strin g and make a mark onto a piece of masking tape. Mark th e oth er string 4 ft. from th e intersection. M easure di ago na ll y betwee n th e two marks ; th e di stance should equal 5 ft. Reposition th e second string, if necess3ly, until th e di agonal measurement is 5 ft. -c------ ”’ ----------. 5 II.
3ft. 4~
90"
;,.....-step C: Mark the Footing Locations I . Foll owing your plan , meas ure from th e ex isting lines and use th e 3-4-5 meth od to add two more per- pe ndi cul ar lines to form a layout with four 90° cor- Use the 3-4-5 method to add two more perpendicular ners. Use th e line level to make sure th e maso n’s lines to form a layout with four 90° corners.
Building Fonuda t.ions • 213Use a plumb bob to mark the pier locations. Drive a stake wrap paper around the form to mark a straight cutting line into the ground directly below the plumb bob pointer. (INSET). Set the forms in the holes on top of the 4” gravel layer.
lines are level. The intersections of the lines should step 0: Set the Forms
mark the centers of the piers.
2. Check the squareness of your line layout by I. Dig holes for the forms, centering them
measuring diagonally from comer to corner: when around the stakes. Make the holes a few inches
the measurements are equal, the frame is square. larger in diameter than the cardboard forms. The
Make any necessaty adjustments. hole depth must meet the local building code
3. Plumb down with a plumb bob and place a requirements- add 4" to the depth to allow for a
stake directly under each line intersection. If your layer of gravel. For deep holes, use a post hole dig-
plan calls for additional piers, measure and mark ger or a rented power auger. Add 4" of gravel to the
those points on the lines, then plumb down and plant bottom of each hole.
the stakes. 2. Cut each cardboard form so it will extend 2"
4. Untie each line at one end only, then coil the above the ground level. The top ends of the forms
line and place it out of the way. Leaving one end tied must be straight, so place the factOly-cut end up,
will make it easier to restring the lines later. whenever possible. Otherwise, mark a straight cut-
ting line using a large piece of paper with at least one
straight edge: Wrap the paper completely around the
form so that it overlaps itself a few inches. Position
the straight edge of the paper on the cutting mark,
and align the overlapping edges of the paper with
each other. Mark around the tube along the edge of
the paper. Cut the tube with a reciprocating saw or
handsaw.
3. Set the tubes in the holes and fill in around th e m
with dirt. Set a level across the top of each tube to make
sure the top is level as you secure the tube with dirt.
Pack the dirt firmly, using a shovel handle or a stick.
Step E: Pour the Concrete
I. Restring the mason's lines and confirm that the
forms are positioned accurately.
2. Mix the concrete following the manufacturer'sFill the forms with concrete, then set the J-bolts (INSET). directions; prepare only as much as you can easily Check with a plumb bob to make sure the bolts are centered. work with before the concrete sets. Fill each form
214 • TH E N UTS & BOLTS
with co nc rete, using a long sti ck to tamp it down and e liminate air pockets in the co nc re te. Overllil th e form slightly. 3. Level the co nc rete by pulling a 2 x 4 on edge ac ross th e top of th e form , using a side-to-side sawi ng motion. Fill low spots with co nc rete so th at the top is pe rfec tl y fl at. 4. Set a J-bolt into the we t co nc rete in th e center of th e form . Lower th e bolt slowly, wigglin g it slightly to eliminate air pockets. Use a plumb bob to make sure th e bo lt is aligned exac tly with th e mark on th e maso n’s line. Make s ure th e bolt is plumb and exte nd s 3A” to I ” above th e conc re te. S mooth th e co nc re te around th e bolt and le t th e co ncrete c ure.
Step F: Install the Post Bases ] . Mark a refe re nce line on th e top of eac h pie r to help with aligning the post bases . Pl ace a long, straight boa rd across two pie rs, setting it on th e sa me sid e of eac h J-bolt. Hold th e boa rd aga inst th e bolts a nd trace along th e edge (bolt-side) of th e boa rd onto the tops of the pie rs. NOTE: If your footing layout is square or rectangular, make reference marks that follow Set the post base over the J-bolt and use a framing square the perimeter of the building. If you’re building a and reference line to position the base before securing it. gazebo, set the board across the center pier and each of the outside piers. 2. Place a pos t base on each pie r so it’s ce nte red ove r th e J-bolt. Add the was he rs and loosely screw th e anc hor nut onto th e J-bolt. Use a framing squ are to pos ition th e base squa re w ith th e refe re nce line, th e n ti ghte n the nut with a ratchet wre nc h. 3. Pl ace th e metal pedestals into th e post bases.
Step G: Set the Posts I. Ma ke sure the bottom post e nds are sq uare; cut the m, if necessaly. Seal th e bottom e nds with a wood seale r-preserva tive, to preve nt rot. 2. Place eac h post in its base, hold it plumb, and tack in one 16d ga lva nized co mmon nail. Have a helper se t up two perpendi c ular cross braces. Use a level to plumb th e post, and secure the braces to th e post and to stakes in the ground, using sc rews. Hold the level on two adjace nt post faces to make sure t he pos t is per- fectl y plum b. Nai l th e post to th e base with 16d nail s. 3. Drill pilot holes fo r the lag sc rews th at anc hor the pos ts to the bases (c hec k with the ma nufac turer for th e recomme nded size of lag sc rew) . In stall th e lag sc rews with a ratchet wre nch . Leave th e braces in place until the top pos t ends are sec ure ly framed into th e structure. C ut away th e exposed porti ons of th e Plumb and brace the posts, then secure the posts to the form s with a utility knife . bases with galvanized nails and lag screws.
BHi/ciing FoH'IIciati ons • 215I Concrete Slab Foundation The slab foundation commonly used for outbuildings foundation perimeter- c heck th e local code.) After is called a slab-on-grade foundation. This combin es a the co ncre te is poured and finished, 8”-long J-bolts 3 112”- to 4 “-thi ck fl oor slab with a 8”- to 12”-thi ck are set into the slab along the edges. T he se are used perimeter footing that provides extra support for th e later to anc hor the wa ll framing to the slab. walls of the building. T he whol e fo undation can be A slab foundation typ ically req uires a lot of co n- poured at one time using a simple wood form. crete: An 8 X 10-ft. slab designed like the one in this Because they sit above ground , s lab-o n-grade project calls for abo ut 1. 3 cubic ya rd s of conc rete; a foundations are susceptible to frost h eave an d in 12 X 12-ft. slab , about 2.3 c ubi c yards . Considerin g co ld -weat he r climates a re suitabl e only for the amount in vo lved, yo u’ll probably wa nt to order detach ed buildings. Specific des ign requireme nts ready-mix co ncrete deli ve red by truck to the site also va ry by locality, so c hec k with th e local build- (mo st compani es have a one-yard minimum ). in g department regard in g the depth of th e s la b , Order air-e ntrained co nc rete, whi ch wi ll hold up the meta l reinforcement required, the type and best, an d tell the mixing co mp any that you’re using amo unt of gravel req uired for th e subbase, and it for an exteri or slab. w het he r plastic or a n other type of moi stu re barri- An altern ative fo r small e r slabs is to rent a con- er is needed under the slab . crete trailer from a rental center or landscaping com- The slab shown in this project has a 3 Ia”- thi ck pany; th ey fill th e trailer wi th one yard of mixed con- inte ri or with a 8”-wide X 8”-deep footing along the crete and you tow it hom e with your own ve hi c le. perimeter. The top of the slab sits 4” above ground If you’re having your con crete delivered, be sure level, or grade. There is a 4”-thick layer of compacted to have a few helpers on-hand when th e truck arrives; grave l underneath the slab and the co ncrete is rein- ne ither the co ncrete nor th e driver will wa it fo r you to forced intern ally with a layer of 6” x 6” ge t organized. Also, concre te trucks must be lOilO we lded wire mesh (WWM ). unloaded compl etely, so designate a dumping spot for (In so me areas, yo u may be any excess . Once the fo rm is filled, load a co upl e of req uired to add wh eelbarrows with concrete (in case you need it) 4” compacted rebar in th e th en have th e driver dump th e rest. Be sure to spread gravel 8”-thick ou t and hose down the excess concrete so you aren’t Welded left with an immovable boulder in your yard . wire mesh Trench If yo u’ve never worked with co ncrete, fini sh- in g a large slab can be a c hall e ngin g intro- duction; you might want some experi- enced help with th e pour.
Tools &Materials Circular saw . Drill
• Mason's line . Sledgehammer . Line level . Framing
square . Shovel . Wheelbarrow . Rented plate
compactor . Bolt cutters . Bull float . Hand-held
concrete float . Concrete edger . Compactible
gravel . 2 x 3 & 2 x 4lumber . 11/4" & 2 1a" deck
screws . 3/4" A-C plywood . 8d nails . 6" x 6" 10/10
welded wire mesh . 1W' brick pavers . J-bo lts .
2"-thick rigid foam insulation216 • T H E N UTS & BOLTS
Measure down from the layout lines and Assemble the form pieces with 2 1;2 ” Drive stakes every 12” to support the temporary cross strings to check the deck screws, then check the inner form , using the mason’s lines to make depth of the excavation . dimensions of the form . For long runs, sure the form remains straight. join pieces with plywood mending plates.
Step A: Excavate the Site are longe r t han 8 ft. , join two strips with a mending
plate made of sc rap plywood; faste n the plate to the
I . Set up batte r boa rds a nd run leve l maso n's
back sides of th e strips with 1 J/4" screws.
lines to re prese nt th e o ute r dim e nsions of th e slab
3. Asse mbl e the fo rm by fas tening th e corners
(see page 2 13) . Use th e 3-4 -5 me th od to make
together with sc rews . T he form's inner dim ensions
sure yo ur lines a re pe rp e ndi c ul ar, and c hec k yo ur
must equal the outer dim ensions of the slab.
fi nal layo ut fo r square ness by meas uring th e
di agon als.
2. Excavate th e area 4" wide r and longer than th e
Step C: Set the Form
string layout- thi s provides so me roo m to work. For I. C ut 18"- long stakes fro m 2 x 3 lumber- yo u'll
th e footin g portion along th e perim eter, dig a trenc h need one stake for evelY linear foot of form , plus one
th at is 8" wide x 8" deep. extra stake for eac h corner. Taper one end of eac h
3. Remove 3 1/.2" of so il over the interi or porti on of stake to a point.
th e slab, th en slope th e inn er sides of th e trenc h at 2 . Place th e form in th e trenc h and ali gn it with
4 5°. Set up te mporalY cross strings to chec k the the mason's lines . Drive a stake nea r the end of each
depth as yo u wo rk. side of the form , setti ng the stake edge against the
4. Add a 4 " layer of co mpac tibl e gravel over th e form and driving down to 3" above grade.
entire excavati on and rake it level. Co mpact th e grav- 3. Meas uring down fro m the maso n's lines, pos i-
el thoroughl y, using a rented plate com pactor. ti on the form 4" above grade . Tack the form to th e
stakes with partiall y dri ve n 8d nails (drive n th rough
step B: Build the Form th e fo rm in to the stakes) . Meas ure the diago nals to
make sure the form is square and check th at the top
I. C ut sheets of 3/4" A-C plywood in to six strips of
of th e fo rm is level. Drive th e nails co mpl etely.
equal width- abou t 77Al", all owing for th e saw cuts.
4. Add a stake evelY 12" and drive the m down
To make sure th e cuts are straight, use a table saw or
below the top edge of the form. Secure the form with
a circular saw and straigh tedge.
two 8d nail s driven into eac h sta ke. As you work,
2. C ut th e plywood strips to length to create th e
check with a string line to make sure the form sides are
sides of th e form . C ut two sides 1 1/.2" longer so th ey
straight and measure the diagonals to check for square .
ca n ove rlap th e remaining two sides. Fo r sides that
Building Foundations • 217
Layout rows of wire
mesh, tie the rows
together, then prop up
the mesh with brick
pavers or metal bolsters.
Step D: Add the Metal 2. As th e fo rm fill s, have two helpe rs sc reed th e
Reinforcement C oncrete , usin bo a straioht
. b 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 th at spa ns
th e form: Drag the sc reed boa rd along th e top of th e
I . Layout rows of 6" x 6" 10/ 10 we lded wire
form , wo rking it back and forth in a sawing moti on.
mes h so th eir ends are I " to 2" fro m th e insides of
T h row shovelfuls of concrete ahead of th e screed
th e forms. C ut th e mes h with bo lt c utte rs or heavy
boa rd to fill low s pots. T he goal of screeding is to
plie rs, and stand on the unroll ed mes h as you cut, to
m ake th e s urface of th e concrete pe rfec tly Rat a nd
preve nt it from springing bac k. Overlap the rows of
level, if not smooth .
mes h by 6" a nd ti e th e m togeth e r with ti e wi re.
3. Rap the outsides of th e form w ith a hamm e r to
2. Prop up the mesh wi th pieces of 1 1i2"- thick
settle th e co nc rete along the inside faces of the form.
brick pavers or meta l bolsters.
This he lps smooth th e sides of the sla b.
3. M ark th e layout of th e J-bolts o nto the top
edges of th e form , following yo ur p lan. (J-bolts
typ ica lly are placed 4 " to 6" from eac h corn e r and
Step F: Finish the Concrete &
every 4 fl. in between.) Set the J-bolts
I. Immedi ately after screeding the co nc re te,
Step E: Pour the Slab make one pass with a bull Roat to smooth th e sur-
face. Add small amoun ts of concrete to fill low spo ts
I. Starting at one e nd , fill in the form with con-
crea ted by th e Roating, th e n smooth those areas with
C rete , usinob a shovel to di stribute it. Use the shovel
th e Roal. Floa ting forces th e aggregate down and
blade or a 2 x 4 to stab into th e co ncrete to eliminate
draws th e wate r an d sa nd to the surface.
ai r pockets a nd settle it around the wire mes h and along
the fo rm s. Fi ll with concrete to the top of the form.218 • T H E NUTS & BOLTS
2. Set th e J-bol ts into th e conc rete 13/4 " from th e bleed water, so it's best to rely on the pressure test.o utside edges of the slab. Wo rk the bolts into the 4. Float th e co nc rete wi th a ha nd -he ld magne- co nc re te by wiggling them slightl y to e liminate air si um o r wood float, working the fl oat bac k a nd fo rth pockets. The bolts should be plumb and protrude until th e s urface is smooth . If you can’t reac h th e 2 1;2” from the slab surface . After setting eac h bolt, e ntire slab from th e sides, lay pi eces of 2”-t hi ck smooth t he co nc re te around th e bo lt, using a magn e- rigid foam in sul ati o n over the conc rete a nd knee l o n sium or wood co ncrete fl oat. th e in sul ati o n. Wo rk bac kwards to cover up any . . 3. Watc h the concrete carefull y as it dri es . The lmpress lons. bull -flo atin g w i II cause wa te r (ca ll ed bl eed water) 5. Use a co ncrete edging tool to round ove r th e to ri se, cas ting a sheen o n the surface. Wa it for the slab edge, running th e edge r between the slab and bleed water to disappear and th e surface to becom e th e form. If you want a ve lY smooth Rni sh, wo rk th e dull. Press ure-test th e conc re te for Rrmness by concrete with a trowe l. stepping on it w ith o ne foot: if yo ur foot sinks 1/4 ” 6. Let t he co nc rete c ure for 24 hours, the n strip or less , th e co nc rete is ready to be Rni she d. the form s. Wa it an additional 24 hours befo re build- NOTE: Air-entrained concrete may have very little ing on th e slab .
Screed the concrete after filling the form, using two people Float the slab with a bull float, then set the J-bolts at the to screed, while a third fills low spots with a shovel. marked locations (INSET).
BlIilding FOHuda l.ions • 219
I setting Posts in Concrete
Burying posts in the gro und with concrete pro vides stre ngth
and latera l stability, making it a good found ation sys tem for
small- to mid -sca le projects. T he co nc rete a lso he lp s protec t
the posts from grou nd moi st ure, so they las t longer than
th ey wo uld if buried direc tl y in th e soil. However, it's a good
idea to treat the bottom e nd s of posts before burying th e m,
as an added meas ure aga in st rot (see Protecting Buried
Posts, below) .
• When digging posthol es, make them 6" deeper than th e
post footing depth specified by the local building code. This
leaves room for a layer of grave l th at keeps water from collect-
ing at th e base of th e post. Also follow th e building code specs
for posthole di ameter; as a minimum, the hol es should be
several inches larger in diameter than th e post size-
about 8" for 4 X 4 posts, and 12"- 14" for 6 X 6 posts.
FYI ~ Protecting Buried Posts
The most vulnerable part of a buried post is the
bottom end, which soaks up water when untreated,
and the point where the post emerges from the
ground or surrounding concrete. Here are a couple
of popular methods for protecting posts against rot
o from moisture contact.
o
o
Tools &Materials Plumb bob . Stakes Stand posts in a pan of wood preservative
& string . Hand maul . Power auger or posthole
and let them soak overnight. This protects the
digger . Shovel . Coarse gravel . Carpenter's level
porous end grain from moisture.
• Concrete . Mason's trowel . Pressure-treated,
cedar, or redwood 4 x 4 posts . Scrap lengths of 2 x 4
Coat the buried portion of posts with roofing tar,
covering the ends and all sides up to several
inches above the points where they will emerge
from the ground.220 • T H E NUTS & BOLTS
Drop a plumb bob from each post Dig postholes 6” deeper than specified Position each post in its hole. Brace reference mark on the string to pinpoint by local building code. Pour 4” to 6” of the post with scrap pieces of 2 x 4 on the post centers on the ground . gravel into each hole to improve adjacent sides, and adjust it until it drainage. is plumb.
step A: Mark Post Locations step D: Fill the Postholes I. Transfer the marks from the string to the I. Mix concrete and fill each posthole, overfilling ground, using a plumb bob to pinpoint the post them slightly. locations. 2. Check to make sure eac h post is still plumb, 2. Mark each post location with a stake, and then use a mason’s trowel to shape the concrete remove the string. around the bottom of the post to form a rounded crown that will shed water. step B: Dig Postholes 3. Let the concrete cure for 2 days before remov- ing the braces. I. Dig postholes, using a power auger (available at rental centers) or posthole digger. Make eac h hole 6” deeper than the post footing depth specified by local building code or 12” past the frost line in cold cli- mates. Keep the hol es as narrow as possible, usually about twice the width of the post. Corner and gate posts usually require wider footings for extra stability. Check local regulations. 2. Pour a 6” layer of gravel into each hole for improved drainage.
Step c: Position the Posts I. Position each post in its hole. Check posts for plumb with a level. Adjust posts to th e correct height by adding or re moving gravel until eac h post is at th e same height. 2. Brace each post with scrap 2 x 4s secured to adjacent sides. 3. If you’re setting more than one post, make sure Fill the postholes with pre-mixed concrete, overfilling they’re properly aligned with one another, using each slightly. Recheck the post for plumb and shape the mason ‘s string. Adjust if necessary. concrete into a crown to shed water.
Building Foundations • 221I Cutting Roof Rafters
R
afters are th e main structural members of a
framed roof. On a gazebo, th e rafters attach RAFTER TEMPLATE
at the walls or wall beams and are joined
toge th er at their top ends by th e roof hub. 12
All th e framed roofs in th e plans have a design- ~ Roof-slope
ated slope, or rafter angle. This is shown in the mdlcator
plans by the roof-slope indicator (see RAFTER
Overall length
TEMPLATE, right ).
Roof slope is expressed as the amount of vertical Top
rise for every 12" of horizontal run. This indicator plumb
cut
shows a 6-in-12 roof, which rises 6" for evelY 12" of
run. The roof slope is used to layout the rafter cuts.
The key to roof framing is to cut two pattern Bird's mouth _ _ __
rafters , test-fit them , and make cuts as needed until level cut
they fit properly. Use one of the pattern rafters to Bird's mouth /
layout the remaining rafters. plumb cut
Bottom
plumb cut
Tools&Materials Circular saw
• Framing square . 4-ft.level . 2 x lumber
• 3d, 1Od, and 16d common nails
Purlin
Hub
rafter
placement
-----------_____________________
_l~--------
--------------------1 ~
''',- \ \ I
, ...' \ I
'\'>\
o ----------------------------:
Hip
Rafte:;:r----r'~
7Y.l
12222 • T H E NUTS & BOLTS
NOTE: The following instructions are based on the sample rafter template shown here, which is designed for a 6-in-12 roof slope.
Step A: Mark the Plumb cuts 12” mark I. Select a straight board to use for the pattern rafter. Mark the top plumb cut near one end of the board: Position a framin g square with th e 6” mark of the tongue (short part) and the 12” mark of the blade (wide part) on the top edge of the board. Draw a pen- cil line along the outside edge of th e tongue. 2. Starting from the top of the plumb-cut mark, measure along the top edge of the board and mark the overall length of the rafter, then use the square to trans- fer this mark to th e bottom edge of the board. Position the square so the tongue points down, and align the 6” mark of th e tongue and the 12” mark of th e blade with the bottom board edge, while aligning the tongue with the overall length mark. Draw a line along the tongu e. [f the bottom end cut of th e rafter is square (perpendicular to the edges) rather than parallel to the top end, mark a square cut at the overall length mark.
step B: Mark the Bird’s Mouth Cuts I. Measure h’om the bottom of the lower plumb cut and mark the plumb cut of the bird’s mouth. Position the square as you did for the lower plumb cut and draw a line across th e board fac e at th e new mark. 2. Measure along the bird’s mouth plumb cut and mark the bird’s mouth level cut. Use the square to draw th e level cut- it must be perpendicular to th e (above) Position the framing square at the 6” and 12” bird’s mouth plumb cut. marks to draw the top and bottom plumb-cut lines.
(left) Mark the
bird's mouth level cut
by squaring off of the
bird's mouth plumb cut.
Cutting Hoof Hafters • 223
DIY Tip ~ Marking Angles with a Speed Square
A speed square is a handy tool for marking angled cuts-
using the degree of the cut or the roof slope. Set the square
flange against the board edge and align the PIVOT point with the
top of the cut. Pivot the square until the boa rd edge is aligned
with the desired DEGREE marking or the rise of the roof slope,
indicated in the row of COMMON numbers. Mark along the
right-angle edge of the squa re.
Step C: Make the cuts (fo r aestheti c reaso ns), yo u ca n stop the circul ar saw
at th e line intersecti ons, th en fini sh th e c uts wi th a
1. C ut the rafter ends at the plumb-cut lines, handsaw.
using a c ircul ar saw or power miter saw. 3. Select anoth er straigh t board to use as a sec-
2. Set the base of a circ ular saw to cut at the max- ond pattem rafter. Use th e original pattem raft er to
imum depth . Make th e bird's mouth cuts, overcut- trace the cutting lines onto th e dupli ca te, th e n
ting slightly to complete the cut through the thi ck- make th e c uts.
ness of th e board. As an altem ative to overcutting
Cut the bird's mouth
by overcutting the
lines just until the
blade cuts entirely
through the board .224 • T H E NUTS & BOLTS
Step D: Test-fit the Rafters the bird's mouths should sit Rush against the wall
plates. Make sure th e top e nds are at the same e le-
I. Cut a 12"-long spacer block from material that vation. Recut any angles that don 't fit and test-fit
match es th e roof hub or ridge board. the rafters again.
2. With a helper or two , set the two rafters in 4. Write "PAT' on th e pattern rafter, th en LIse it to
place on top of the walls, holding the spacer block trace the cutting lines onto the remaining rafters.
between the top rafter ends. Make sure th e rafters Before marking, check each rafter for crowning and
are in line with each other (perpendicular to the mark the crowned edge; always install the crowned
walls) and are plumb. edge LIp (see page 60).
3. Check the cuts for fit: The top-end plumb 5. Cut th e remaining rafters.
cuts should meet Rush with the spacer block, andTest-fit the pattern rafters, using a spacer to represent the ridge board or roof hub.
Cutting Hoof Hafters • 225I Roofing watertight roof, as op posed to a partial- Metal roofing has bee n used on everything from
A s hade roof, co n sists of a base laye r of
s heat hin g a nd a top layer of s hin gles or
ot he r roofin g m ate ri a l. The sheat hin g may be
cat hedra ls to c hicke n coo ps and has seen new pop-
ul arity in res ide nti al cons truc ti on. Today's meta l
roofing is extremely durab le a nd easy to insta ll. And
exterio r- grade plywood, to ngue -and-groove it so und s great when it rains.
deck in g boa rd s , or I x or 2x lum ber. The type of s heathing you use depends on the
The plans in thi s book ca ll fo r spec ifi c roofing roofi ng materia l. CDX plywood is the sim plest
materials. Of course , yo u mi ght c hoose a different option for aspha lt and cedar shingles. Both s hi ngle
type for your project. The three bas ic types of roof- types must be install ed over 15# bui lding paper
in g are shown here: (also ca ll ed tar pape r or roofing felt), which goes
Asphalt shingles are th e standa rd roofi ng mate- over the s heathing.
ri a l for outdoor stru ctu res, just as they are for hous- Anothe r sheat hin g option is deckin g boards.
es. For the mon ey, aspha lt shin gles a re the most Typ ica ll y so ld in 5/4 d ime nsion (a bout I" thick),
durab le and low- mainte nance o ption, and they board sheat hing c reates an attract ive unders ide to
come in a wi de range of co lors a nd styles. th e roof, and the nail s won't show through, as they
Cedar shingles are a big step up in price from ca n wi th p lywood sheathing.
asphalt, but thei r visual appea l is unde ni ab le . T he For metal roofing, you must install purl ins-
type shown here is th e fac tOly-sawn shingle with eve nly spaced rows of I x or 2x boards nail ed per-
fl at, tape red sides. Ceda r shingles are less expe nsive pendicu la r to the rafters.
and eas ier to install th an hand-split ceda r shakes.I Sheathing & Building Paper step A: Install the Sheathing I . Laya full s heet of CDX plywood on top of the rafte rs at one of the lower corners of the roof. Position the edges of the s heet 1;8” from the fascia (or the outside edges of the rafters) a nd make sure the inside end of the sheet falls over the center of a rafter; trim the s heet, if necessaty. 2. Fasten the sheet to t he rafters wit h Sd box nails spaced evelY 6” along the edges and every 12” in the fi e ld of the sheet. 3. C ut and insta ll the next sheet to co mpl ete th e first row, leaving a 1;8” gap between the sheet ends.
Tools &Materials Framing square
• Circular saw . Stapler . Fascia & trim material
• 6d and 8d galvan ized finish na ils . CDX plywood roof
sheathing . 8d box na ils . 15# build ing paper . Hammer
• Utility knifeInstall the plywood sheathing so the vertical joints are staggered between rows.
226 • TH E NUTS & BOLTS
4. Sta rt the seco nd row w ith a ha lf-le ngth sheet 1. Rollout 15# building paper ac ross th e roofso th e vertica l joints will be stagge red betwee n along th e eave edge. If yo u’ve install ed drip edge, rows. M eas ure from th e top of the first row to th e hold th e pape r flush wit h th e drip edge; if th e re’s no ce nte r of th e ridge board, and rip th e shee t to that drip edge, overhang th e fasc ia on th e eave by 3;8”. dim e nsion. O ve rh ang th e gab le end s by I” to 2” . (On hip roofs, 5. In stall th e fi rst sheet of th e seco nd row, then overh ang the hip ridges by 6”. ) c ut a nd in stall the re maining sheet to co mpl ete 2. Secure th e pa pe r wi th stap les drive n about th e row. evelY 12”. 6. Shea th the opposite side of the roof followin g 3. Apply t he remaining rows , each ove rl app in g th e sa me process. the preceding row by at least 2” . O verh ang th e ridge by 6”. Ove rla p any ve rti ca l joints by at leas t 4”. Step B: Install the Building Paper 4. Install th e pape r on the other roof side(s), NOTE: If you are installing asphalt shingles, again overl a pping th e ridge by 6”. add drip edge along the eaves before laying the 5. Trim th e pape r flush with th e fascia on the building paper. gable e nd s.
Apply building paper
from the bottom up, so
the lower paper is
overlapped by the
paper above it.
Roofi ng • 227I Asphalt Shingles 1. C ut a 45 ° miter on th e e nd of a piece of drip ed ge, usin g me tal s nip s. H old the e nd flu sh with th e corn er of th e fasc ia, and faste n th e fl ange of Asphalt s hingles com e in a va ri e ty of styles, but m os t the drip edge to th e shea thing w ith roofin g na ils a re based on th e sta nda rd three- tab syste m , in whi ch driven every 12”. To preve nt corrosion , u se galva- each shingle strip h as notch es crea ting three equal- ni zed nail s with ga lva ni zed drip edge a nd alu - ly s ized ta bs o n th e lowe r half of th e strip. Wh e n minum nail s w ith aluminum edge. Ove rl ap ve rtical installed, the tabs cover the solid portion of the shingle joints by 2” . below it, giving th e appearance of indivi dual shingles. 2. Appl y th e building pape r over th e e ntire roof Fo r durability, use fibe rglass-based s hingles rathe r (see page 227) . Install drip edge along the gable than organic-based. Also chec k th e pac kagi ng to ends , over the paper, cutting 4 5° miters to m eet th e ma ke sure th e shingles comply with th e ASTM D e nds of th e eave drip edge. Ove rl ap hori zo ntal jo ints 3462 sta ndard fo r durability. If yo u choose a spec ialty by 2”, ove rla pping th e hi ghe r piece on to p of the style, such as a decorative shingle or a type th at is made lower. At th e roof pea k, trim th e front fl anges so th e to appea r natural (similar to wood or slate), c heck with oppos ing edge pieces meet at a ve rti ca l jo int. the ma nufac turer for spec ifi c install ati on instructi ons. Prepare th e roof for shingles by installing building Step B: Install the Starter pa pe r a nd meta l drip edge along t he roof perim e te r. Course of Shingles D rip edge cove rs th e edges of th e fascia and supports 1. Snap a chalk line 111;2” up from the fron t edge th e shin gle edges. of th e drip edge (thi s will res ult in a 1;2” ove rl ap fo r standard 12” shingles). Step A: Install the Drip Edge 2. Trim off one-half (6”) of th e end tab of a shin - NOTE: Install drip edge along the eaves before gle, using a utili ty knife a nd straightedge. applying building paper; install drip edge along 3. Pos ition the shingle upside-dow n, so the tabs the gable ends on top of the paper. are on th e chalk line and th e half- tab overh angs the ga ble drip edge by 3;8” . Fas te n th e s hingle with four 2d roofing nails, about 3 1/.2” up from th e bottom edge: Tools &Materials Metal snips . Chalk line drive one below each tab , one 2” in from the gable • Utility knife . Straightedge . Metal drip edge . Asphalt edge, a nd one I ” fro m th e inside edge. Drive th e shingles . 2d roofing nails . Roofing cement . Hammer nails straight a nd set the heads just flu sh to avo id tearing th e shingle.
Install drip edge along the eaves over the sheathing. Add the Trim 6” from the end tab to begin the starter row. Position building paper, then install edging along the gable ends. the starter course shingles upside down so the tabs point up.
228 • T H E NUTS & BOLTS
4. Use full shingles for the remainder of th e 5. Repeat the procedure to shingle the remainingcourse, placing them upside down and butting their side(s) of the roof. Overlap the ridge with the top edges together. Trim the last shingle so it overhangs course of shingles and nai I them to the other roof the gable edge by 3;8” . side; do not overlap more than 5”. On a hip roof, trim the shingles along the hip ridge. Step C: Install the Remaining Courses Step D: Install the Ridge Caps I. Install the first course of shin gles, startin g I. Cut ridge caps from standard shingle tabs: with a full shingle. Position the tabs down and taper each tab along the side edges, starting from the align the shingle edges with those in the starter top of the slots and cutting up to th e top edge. Cut course. Drive four nails into each sh in gle: one 5;8” three caps from each shin gle- you’ ll need one cap above each tab, and one ]” in from each end, at for evelY 5” of ri dge. the same level. Trim the last sh ingle to match the 2. Snap a chalk line across the shingles, 6” from starter course. the ridge. Starting at th e gab le ends (for a gab le 2. Snap a chalk line on the building paper, ]7” up roof) or the bottom edge (for a hip roof), install the from the bottom edge of the first course; this wi ll caps by bending them over the ridge and ali gning result in a 5” exposure for eac h course. one side edge with the chalk line. Fasten each cap 3. Begin the second course with a full sh ingle, but with one nail on eac h roof side, 5 1/.2” from the fin- overhang the end of the first course by 1/.2 of a tab. ished (exposed) edge and ]” from the side edge. Begin the third course by overhanging a fu ll tab , then Maintain a 5” exposure for eac h sh ingle. Faste n the ]1/.2 tabs for the fourth course. Start the fifth course last shingle with a nail at eac h corner, then cover with a fu ll shingle aligned with the first course, to the nail heads with roofing cement. repeat th e staggered pattern. Snap a c ha lk line fo r 3. Trim the overhanging shingles along the each course, maintaining a 5” exposure . After evelY gab le e nds: Snap c ha lk lines a lon g the gable ends, few courses, measure from the ridge to the shingle 3/8” from the drip edges (these should line up with edges to make sure th e shingles are running parallel to the first , fifth , etc., courses). Trim the shingles at the ridge. If necessary, make slight adjustments with the lin es. Cover a ny ex posed nails wit h roofing each course until the shingles are parallel to the ridge. cement. 4. Trim the top course of shingles at th e ridge. If you are working on a hip roof (gazebo), trim the shin- gles at each hip ridge.
stagger each course of shingles by 112 tab, repeating the Divide the shingles into thirds, then trim the corners to pattern after overhanging the edge by 1112 tabs. create the shingle caps (INSET). Install the caps at the ridge.
l100fing • 229I Cedar Shingles step A: Install the Starter Course I . Apply buildi ng paper to the e ntire roof, ove r- hanging th e eaves by 3;8 ” (see page 227). Cedar shingles come in 16”, 18” , and 24” le ngth s and 2. Position th e first shingle in th e sta rte r co urse so in ra ndom widths, ge ne rally betwee n 3” and 10” wide. it ove rh angs th e gable edge by I ” and th e eave edge T he expos ure of the shingles de pe nds on th e slope of by 11;2”. Tac k or c lamp a 2 x 4 spacer to th e fasc ia to the roof a nd th e le ngth and qua li ty of th e shingles help se t th e ove rh ang. Ma ke sure th e butt (thi c k) e nd (c hec k with the manufacture r). Beca use they’re sold of th e shingle is pointing down. Faste n th e shingle in a few different grades, make s ure the shingles you w ith two 3d roofin g nails, driven 4” up from th e butt get a re good e nough to be used as roofin g. Also, be e nd and at least I” fro m th e side edges. Dri ve th e awa re that ga lva nized nails may ca use so me sta ining nails just flu sh with th e sUlface-counte rsin king c re- or streaki ng on th e shingles; if yo u can’t accept that, ates a cavity that co ll ects water. use stainless-s teel nai ls. 3. Install th e remaining shingles in th e starte r T he projec t shown he re in clud es 18” shin gles course, mainta ini ng a IA ” to 3;8” ga p betwee n shin- wi th a 5 1;2” exposure installed on a gab le roo f. At th e gles. If necessa ry, trim the last shingle to wi dth . ridge, th e shingles are covered with a Ix cedar ridge ca p, whi c h is eas ie r to install th an ca p shingles . Step B: Install the Remaining Courses 1. Set th e first shingle in th e first co urse so its Tools &Materials Util ity knife . Chalk line butt and outside edges are flu sh with th e s hin gles in • Circular saw . Table saw . T-bevel • Cedar shingles th e starter course an d it overlaps the shingle gap . 2 x 4 lumber . 3d & 6d roofing nails . 6d galvanized nails below by 1 \12”. Faste n th e shingle 1” to 2” a bove th e • 1 x 4 and 1 x 6 ceda r . Caulk . Hammer ex posure line and I ” fro m the side edges . 2. Install th e remaining shingles in the first co urse, maintainin g a lj4” to 3;8” ga p be tween shingles.
Install the starter row of shingl es, overhanging the gable end by 3t\l ” and the eave by 11;2 ”.
230 • T H E NUTS & BOLTS
3. Snap a chalk line ac ross th e shingles at th e step C: Shingle the Ridgeex pos ure li ne (5 11.1” in thi s exa mpl e). Install th e sec- ond course, aligning th e butt ends with th e chalk 1. C ut a strip of building paper to 24” wide and as line. Make sure shingle ga ps are offse t with the ga ps long as th e ridge. Fo ld th e paper in ha lf and lay it ove r in th e first co urse by 111.1” . the ridge so it overl aps the shingles on both sides of 4 . Insta ll th e remaining courses, using c halk lines th e roof; tac k it in place with staples. to se t th e expos ure. Measure from th e ridge periodi- 2. Install anoth er co urse of shingles on eac h s ide, ca ll y to make sure the courses are parall e l to th e trimming th e top edges so th ey are flu sh with th e ridge. Offset th e shingle gaps by 1 i;2” with th e ga ps ridge. C ut anoth er strip of building paper 12” wide , in th e preceding three courses-that is, any ga ps that fold it, and lay it ove r these shingles. are ali gned must be four courses apart. Add co urses 3. In stall th e fin al course on eac h side, trimmin g until th e top (thin) ends of th e shingles are within a th e ends flu sh with th e ridge. Na il the shingles about few inches of the ridge. 211.1” from th e ridge. 5. S hingle th e opposite side of th e roof. Step D: Install the Ridge Cap I . Find th e angle of th e ridge using a T-bevel and two sc raps of Ix boa rd. Pos ition th e boa rds along th e ridge with th e ir edges butted together. Set the T-beve l to matc h th e angle . 2. Transfer th e a ngle to a table saw or c ircul ar saw and rip tes t pieces of 1x. Test-fit th e pieces on th e ridge, and adju st th e angles as needed. 3. C ut th e 1 x 6 and 1 x 4 cap boards to run th e length of th e ridge. j oin the board s with ca ulk and 6d galvan ized box nail s. Attac h the cap to th e ridge with 6d roofin g nails d riven evelY 12”.
Install the first course of shingles on top of the starter course, offsetting the shingle gaps 11f2” between the courses.
Cover the ridge with 24” of building paper, then a course of Use a T-bevel and scrap boards to find the ridge angles trimmed shingles. Repeat with 12” of paper and shingles. (above), then cut the 1 x 4 and 1 x 6 for the ridge cap.
Roofing • 23 1
I Metal Roofing step A: Install the Purlins
I . Mark th e purlin layout on the top edges of the
th e rafters, a nd snap a chalk line for each row. Fas te n
Metal roofing pan e ls typi ca ll y a re avai la bl e in 2 x 4 purlins to the rafters with 16d co mmo n nai ls;
3-ft.-wide panels, w ith mos t styles us in g so me use 8d nails for I x 4s. Make sure th e uppe r-most
fo rm of stan din g seam des ign, w hi c h ad ds s tre ngth puriins will suppo rt the roofing ridge cap.
and provides m eans for joining s heets. You ca n buy 2. O n th e gab le e nds, cut bloc kin g to fit be twee n
the roofin g through m eta l roofing s uppli e rs and at th e purlins, and in sta ll it so th e outside edges are
home ce nters, but the former typica ll y offer more flu sh with the outer faces of th e outer rafters.
co lor op ti ons, and th ey' ll c usto m-cu t t he panels to
fit yo ur project. Most man ufac turers su ppl y rub- Step B: Install the Roof Panels
be r-was he red n ails or screws for a wa te rti ght
sea l- use th e reco mm ended fasteners to prevent I . Set the first roof panel across th e purlins so th e
pre m atu re rusting due to ga lvanic act io n (ca used fini shed side edge overhangs th e ga ble-end fasc ia by
by con tac t between dissimi lar me tals). 2" and th e bottom end overhangs the eave by 2".
In sta ll me tal roan ng over 1 x 4 or 2 x 4 purlins Faste n the panel with self-tapping screws or roofing
nail ed perpendicularly to the rafte rs at 12" to 24" nai ls with rubber was hers, fo ll owing th e man ufactur-
on ce nter- check with the manufacturer for purlin er's direc ti ons for spacing.
spacin g a nd load require m e nts. At gab le e nd s, add 2. Insta ll th e subseq ue nt pane ls, overlapping eac h
b lock in g between the puriin s to prov id e a nailing panel accord ing to th e manufac turer's directions.
su rface for th e end panels and drip edge. 3. Rotate th e fina l panel 180 0 from the ot hers, so
the finish ed side edge is at the gable end. Ove rl ap the
Install the purlins across the rafters,
then add blocking at the gable ends.
Tools &Materials
Chalk line . Circular saw . Drill
. 1 x4or2x4lumber . 16d
common nails . Metal roofing
panels and pre-formed ridge cap,
with fasteners232 • T H E NUTS & BOLTS
preceding panel by as much as necessmy so the fin- ished edge overhangs the gable edge by 2” . Fasten the final panel.
Step C: Install the Ridge Cap 1. Center the pre-formed ridge cap over the peak so it overlaps th e roofing panels. Make sure th e cap overhangs the gab le ends eq uall y on both sides. NOTE: some products include ridge-cap sealing strips. 2. Fasten the ridge cap to the top purlins. Install the panels to the purl ins using the manufacturer’s recommended fasteners.
Add the ridge cap at the roof peak,
covering the panels on both roof sides.
l100fing • 233I Working 1Nith Copper Pipe soldered pipe joint, also called a swea ted 2. Turn th e tubing cutter one ro tation to score a
A joi nt, is m ade by hea ting a copper or brass fit-
ting with a propane torch until the fi tting is
just hot e nough to m elt solder. The h eat th en draws
co ntinu ous line aroun d th e pipe . T he n rotate th e c ut-
ter in th e opposite direction. After evelY two rota-
ti on s, tighten the handl e. Rotate th e c utter until th e
th e so lder into th e gap be tween th e fittin g and th e pipe separates .
co ppe r pipe, forming a strong seal.
Using too much hea t is the most common mi s- step B: Clean the Pipe & Fittings
take made by beginne rs. To avo id thi s e rror, reme m-
To fo rm a good sea l w ith solder, th e e nd s of a ll
ber th at th e tip of th e torc h's inner fl am e produces
pipes and the insides of all fitt ings must be free of
the most heat. Direct th e fl ame ca refull y- so lde r will
dirt and grease. Rem ove me tal burrs from th e inside
fl ow in the direction the heat has traveled. H ea t the
edge of th e c ut pipe, using th e reaming point on th e
pipe just until th e flux sizzles; rem ove th e fl ame and
tubing c utter or a round fil e. Sand th e e nds of pipes
to uc h th e sold er to th e pipe . T he heated pipe will
wi th em elY c loth , and scour th e insides of th e fittin gs
quicldy melt th e solde r.
with a wire brush.
Soldering coppe r pipe and fittin gs isn't diffi c ult,
but it req uires so me pati e nce and skill. It's a good
idea to practi ce soldering pieces of sc ra p pipe befo re
Step C: Flux & Dry-fit the Pipes
taking on a large projec t. 1. Apply a th in layer of wa te r-solubl e p aste flux
to th e e nd of eac h p ipe, u sin g a flux brush . T h e
Step A: Cut the Pipe flu x sho uld cove r a bout I" of th e e nd of th e pipe .
2 . In se rt th e p ipe into t he fi ttin g until th e pipe
I. Meas ure and mark th e pipe. Place a tubing
is t igh t aga inst th e fitt in g socke t, and tw ist th e fit-
cutter over th e pipe with th e cutting wheel centered
ti ng sli ghtl y to spread th e flux. If a series of pipes
over th e marked line . Tighten th e handl e until th e
a nd fittings (a run ) is in vol ve d , flux a nd dry-fit th e
pipe rests on both ro ll e rs.
e nt ire run w ith o ut solde rin g any of th e join ts .Position the tubing cutter, and score a Clean inside the fittings with a wire Brush a thin layer of flux onto the end line around the pipe. Rotate and tighten brush, and deburr the pipes with the of each pipe. Assemble the joint, the cutter until the pipe separates. reaming point on the tubing cutter. twisting the fitting to spread the flu x.
234 • T H E NUTS & BOLTS
Wh e n you’re s ure th e run is co rrec tl y asse mbl ed of sil ve r-co lored solde r aro un d th e lip of th e fit- and eve rythin g fit s, take it a part a nd pre pa re to tin g. It typi cally ta kes abo ut 1;2” of solder wire to solder th e joints. fill a join t in 1;2” pipe. If th e so lder pools around th e fittin g rat her th an Step 0: Heat the Fittings fi lling th e join t as it cools, rehea t the area un t il th e solder li q uifi es and is drawn in sli ghtly 1. Shi eld fl amm able work surfaces from the heat NOTE: Always turn off the propane torch imme- of th e torch. Al th ough hea t-absorbent pads are avail- diately after you’ve finished soldering; make sure able fo r this purpose, yo u ca n use a doubl e layer of the gas valve is completely closed. 26-gauge shee t metal. The refl ec tive quality of th e sheet metal helps joints hea t evenly 2. Unwind 8” to 10” of solder from the spool. To Step F: Wipe Away Excess make it easier to maneuver the solder all the way Solder & Check the Joint aro un d a joi nt, bend th e first 2” of th e wire solder to a 1. Let th e joint sit undi sturbed until th e solder 90° angle . loses its shiny color. Don’t touc h it befo re th en- th e 3. Open the gas valve and light the propane torch . copper will be quite hot. Adjust the valve un til the inner portion of the fla me 2. W hen th e joint is cool enough to touch, wipe is 1” to 2” long. away excess flux and solder, usin g a c lea n, dry rag. 4. Hold the tip of the fl ame against th e middl e of Wh en the joint is co mpl etely cool, check fo r gaps the fitt ing fo r 4 to 5 seco nds or until the flux begins around th e edges. If you find gaps, app ly more flux to to sizzle. Hea t th e oth er side of th e joi nt, distributing th e rim of th e joint and resolder it. th e heat eve nl y Move th e fl ame around th e joint in 3. If yo u need to take apa rt a solde red join t, the di rection the solder should flow. To uch the solder reverse th e process . First, li ght th e torc h and heat to th e pipe, just below th e fittin g. If it me lts, th e joint th e fittin g until th e so lde r beco mes shin y a nd is hot enough. begin s to melt. The n use ch ann el-type pliers to se p- arate th e pipe from th e fittin g. To rem ove th e old Step E: Apply the Solder so lder, hea t th e ends of th e pipe, a nd use a dry rag Q ui ckl y apply solder alon g both sea m s of th e to ca refull y wipe away the melted solder. W h en the fittin g, all owing capill ary ac ti on to draw th e liqui - pipe is cool , poli sh th e ends down to bare metal, fied so lde r into th e fittin g. W he n th e joint is u sing emery cloth . Discard th e old fitti ngs- th ey can’t be reused . fill ed, solder begin s to form drop lets on th e bot- tom. A correc tl y so ldered joint shows a th in bead
Heat the fitting until th e flu x begins to Push ‘h” to 3/4” of solder into each When the joint has cooled, wipe sizzle. Concentrate th e tip of the torch ‘s joint, allowing capillary action to draw away excess solder with a dry rag. flame on the middle of the fitting. liquified solder into the joint. Be careful: The pipes will be hot.
Worhing with Copper Pi pe • 235I Resources LUMBER American Bamboo society www.americanbamboo.org California Redwood Association www.calredwood.org STRUCTURAL FIBERGLASS COLUMNS Southern Pine Council Architectural Products by Outwater L.L.C. www.southernpine.com 1-800-835-4400 Information on pressure-treated www.outwater.com southern pine lumber Note: columns used in Classic pergola are part #MC-88; column is 8” x 8’, plain (not fluted), with Western Red Cedar lumber Association standard Tuscan polyurethane cap and base. (WRClA) www.wrcla.org FRAMING CONNECTORS & BAMBOO OTHER ANCHOR SYSTEMS Simpson Strong-Tie Co. Bamboo & Rattan works, Inc. 1-800-999-5099 www.bambooandrattan.com www.simpsonanchors.com Supplier of bamboo and bamboo products supplier of framing connectors, fasteners, and hardware for connectors, post bases, concrete and masonry anchors, and anchoring adhesive
Photo Credits
PHOTOGRAPHY CONTRIBUTORS PHOTOGRAPHERS
The (0110 wing photos are courtesy of:
Alamy
Amish Country Gazebos ©F1 Online/Alamy: page 23.
www.amishgazebos.com
800-700-1777 John Gregor/Coldsnap Photography
page 19 ©John Gregor/ColdSnap Photography:
pages 8 (top), 28.
California Redwood Association
www.calredwood.com David Livingston
888-CALREDWOOD ©David Livingston: page 9 (bottom right).
pages 15 (right) and 167 (bottom) by Ron Kolb for
Imperial Decks and Enclosures; p. 90 by Charles Garden Picture Library/ Photolibrary.com
Callister, Jr. for Julian Hedges; p. 91 (top) by Marvin ©Brigitte & Phillipe Perdereau/ Garden Picture Library,
Siobin for Joseph D. Wood; p. 111 (top) by Ernest Braun page 5; ©Jean-Claude Hurni/Garden Picture Library, page
for John Tomlinson; page 136 by Ernest Braun for Rex 26; ©Steven Wooster/Garden Picture Library, page 110.
Higbee; p. 167 (top) by Ernest Braun for Timothy R.
Bitts & Associates. Charles Mann
©C harles Mann: pages 11 (left), 14, 111 (bottom),
Cedarshed Gazebos 137,148.
www.cedarshed.com
800-830-8033 Jerry Pavia
pages 10 (both), 123 (bottom). ©Jerry Pavia : pages 6, 8 (bottom), 11 (top right>. 41, 123
(top), 166, 182, 187 (top), 195 (top).
Summerwood Products
www.summerwood.com Brian Vanden Brink
866-519-4634 ©Brian Vanden Brink: pages 9 (top right),
pages 74-75 (all). 11 (bottom right), 12, 13 (both), 52,120.
Walpole Woodworkers Jessie Walker
www.walpolewoodworkers.com ©Jessie Walker: page 40.
800-343-6948
pages 9 (left), 29 (both), 53 (both), 91 (bottom),
186,187 (bottom), 194, 195 (bottom).236 • Resources I Photo Credits
Index I A Corner lounges G Anchors, 210 building, 142- 147 Gabled entries Angles, making, 224 cutting list, 138 building, 98-101 Arbor ideas, 8- 9 described,136-137 cutting list, 92- 93 freestanding, 186- 187 plans, 139- 141 described,90- 91 retreats, 28- 29 Cutting lists plans, 94- 97 umbrella, 102 for arbor retreats, 30 Garden tools, 211 wall,182 for built-in benches, 138 Gates, trellis wood & copper, 64 for classical pergolas, 54 building, 200- 203 Arbor retreats for classic 8-sided gazebo, 150-151 cutting list, 196 building, 34- 39 for corner lounges, 138 described,194- 195 cutting lists, 30 for freestanding arbors, 188 plans, 197- 199 described,28- 29 for gabled entries, 92- 93 Gazebo ideas, 10-11 plans, 31-33 for lattice gazebos, 42 classic 8-sided, 148-149 Arsenic, 206 for party shelters, 168 lattice, 40- 41 Asian styling for pool pavilions, 112- 113 3-season, 74- 75 freestanding arbors, 186- 187 for summerhouses, 124-125 lattice gazebos, 40- 41 for 3-season gazebos, 76- 77 Asphalt shingles, roofing with, 226, 228- 229 for trellis gates, 196 H for umbrella arbors, 103 Hammer drills, 211 for wall of arbors, 183 Hand tools, 211 B for wood & copper arbors, 65 Hardware, 210 Bamboo, 208, 209 Benches, built-in building, 145- 147 D cutting list, 138 Dining rooms, outdoor, 13 Ionic columns, 59 described,136 Doric columns, 59 plans, 139, 141 Drainage and site choice 19 Drills,211 ’ J Building codes Japanese styling lattice gazebos, 40- 41 importance of checking, 21 Jigsaws, 211 for roofs, 122 E Building plans, 24- 25 Easements, 21 8-sided gazebos K building, 159- 165 Keyless chuck drills, 211 C Cedar, 206 cutting list, 150- 151 Cedar shingles, roofing with, 230- 231 described,148- 149 L Circular saws, 211 plans, 152- 158 Landscape tools, 211 Classical pergolas Elevations on plans, 24 Lattice gazebos building, 58- 63 Entries building, 47- 51 cutting list, 54 gabled cutting lists, 42 described,52-53 building, 98- 101 described,40-41 plans, 55- 57 cutting list, 92- 93 plans, 44- 46 Classic 8-sided gazebos described,90- 91 Lattice panels, 208, 209 building, 159-165 plans, 94-97 Lot coverage, allowable, 21 cutting list, 150- 151 trellis gates Lounge rooms described,148- 149 building, 200- 203 building, 142- 147 plans, 152- 158 cutting list, 196 cutting list, 138 Clear finishes, 207 described,194- 195 described,136-137 Columns, types of, 52, 53, 59 plans, 197- 199 plans, 139- 141 Composite columns, 59 Lumber Concrete, setting posts in, 220- 221 F buying, 206 Concrete pier foundations, building, 212- 215 cutting posts, 34 Fasteners, 210 Concrete slab foundations, building, 216- 219 Finishes, 207 Connectors, 210 Foundations, building Copper pipe M concrete pier, 212-215 advantages of, 209 Marine varnish, 207 concrete slab, 216- 219 working with, 234- 235 Materials Framing connectors, 210 Copper & wood arbors for arbor retreats, 30 Freestanding arbors building, 70- 73 bamboo, 208, 209 building, 191 - 193 cutting list, 65 for built-in benches, 138 cutting list, 188 described,64 for classical pergolas, 54 described,186- 187 plans, 66- 69 for classic 8-sided gazebo, 150- 151 plans, 188-190 Corinthian columns, 59 for concrete pier foundations, 212 Fungicides, 207 for concrete slab foundations, 216
Index • 237
copper pipe, 209 Pergolas Shade, planning for, 22- 23
for corner lounges, 138 classic Shingles, roofing with
for cutting roof rafters, 222 building, 58- 63 asphalt, 228- 229
for freestanding arbors, 188 cutting list, 54 cedar, 230-231
for gabled entries, 92- 93 described, 52- 53 metal panels, 232- 233
hardware & fasteners, 210 plans, 55- 57 types of, 226
for lattice gazebos, 42 columns for, 52, 53, 59 Simpson Strong-Tie connectors, 210
lattice panels, 208, 209 ideas for, 12- 13, 52-53 Sites
lumber, 207 Plans choosing, 18- 19
for party shelters, 168 for arbor retreats, 31 - 33 drawing plans, 20- 21
for pool pavilions, 112-113 for built-in benches, 139, 141 Slats, sunlight and shade and, 23
for roofing with asphalt shingles, 228 for classical pergolas, 55- 57 Sod, cutting, 211
for roofing with cedar shingles, 230 for classic 8-sided gazebo, 152- 158 Soil and site choice, 19
for roofing with metal panels, 232 for corner lounges, 139- 141 Solid-body/ color stain, 207
for setting posts in concrete, 220 drawing, 20-21 Spar varnish, 207
for sheathing & building paper roof layer, 226 for freestanding arbors, 188- 190 Speed squares, using, 224
for summerhouses, 124- 125 for gabled entries, 94- 97 Stains, 207
for 3-season gazebos, 76- 77 for lattice gazebos, 44-46 Summerhouses
for trellis gates, 196 for party shelters, 169- 172 building, 130- 135
for umbrella arbors, 103 for pool pavilions, 114- 117 cutting list, 124- 125
UV protection for, 207 for summerhouses, 126-129 described,122-123
for wall of arbors, 183 sunlight and shade and, 22- 23 plans, 126- 129
for wood & copper arbors, 65 for 3-season gazebos, 78- 82 Sunlight
Metal panels, roofing with, 232- 233 for trellis gates, 197- 199 planning for, 22- 23
Mildewcides, 207 for umbrella arbors, 103-105 UV-blocking finishes and, 207
for wall of arbors, 183
for wood & copper arbors, 66- 69
N working with, 24-25 T
Nails, 210 Polyurethane finishes, 207 3-season gazebos
North American One Call Referral System, 21 Pool pavilions building, 83-89
building, 118-121 cutting list, 76- 77
described,74- 75
o cutting list, 112- 113
described,110- 111 plans, 78-82
Outdoor rooms Transparent stain, 207
plans, 114- 117
corner lounges Trellises, 8
Posts
building, 142- 147 Trellis gates
cutting lumber, 34
cutting list, 138 building, 200-203
setting in concrete, 220- 221
described,136- 137 cutting list, 196
Power augers, 211
plans, 139-141 described,194- 195
Power lines, 21
dining, 13 plans, 197- 199
Power miter saws, 211
party shelters Trusses, ordering, 166
Power sod cutters, 211
building, 173- 181 Tuscan columns, 52, 59
Power tampers, 211
cutting list, 168
Powertools, 211
described,166- 167
Prefabricated lattice panels, 208, 209 U
plans, 169- 172
Pressure-treated lumber, 206
pool pavilions Umbrella arbors
Property line, setback from, 21
building, 118- 121 building, 106- 109
cutting list, 112- 113 cutting list, 103
described,110- 111 R described, 102
plans, 114-117 Rafters (roof) plans, 103-105
screened gazebos, 10 cutting, 222- 224 Utility lines, 21
summerhouses test-fitting, 225 UV protection for materials, 207
building, 130- 135 Reciprocating saws, 211
cutting list, 124- 125 Redwood, 206
described,122- 123 V
Renting tools, 211
plans, 126-129 Varnish,207
Roofing
3-season gazebos View and site choice, 18- 19
with asphalt shingles, 226, 228- 229
building, 83- 89 Vines, sunlight and shade and, 23
with cedar shingles, 230- 231
cutting list, 76- 77 installing sheathing & building paper,
described,74-75 226-227 W
plans, 78- 82 with metal panels, 232- 233 Wall of arbors
Overhead perspectives on plans, 24 roof rafters building, 184- 185
cutting, 222-224 cutting list, 183
p test-fitting, 225 described, 182
types of, 226 plans, 183
Paints, 207
Party shelters Weather, slats and, 23
Wood & copper arbors
building, 173-181 S
cutting list, 168 building, 70- 73
Saws, 211
described,166- 167 cutting list, 65
Seating, built-in
plans, 169- 172 described,64
building, 145- 147
Pathways plans, 66- 69
cutting list, 138
arbors for shaded, 9 Wood types, 206
described,136
defining with pergolas, 13 plans, 139, 141
Pavilion ideas, 14- 15 Semi-transparent stain, 207 Z
Pergola columns, 52, 53 Septic systems, 21 Zoning laws, 2123 8 • Index
Rather have me do it?
I build sheds, playhouses, and backyard structures.