Landscape & Outdoor
Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Landscape Projects
Source: Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Landscape Projects.pdf
Source file: Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Landscape Projects.pdf
The Complete Guide to
LANDSCAPE
PROJECTS
Natural Landscape Design • Eco-friendly Water
Features • Hardscaping • Landscape Plantings
MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOtA
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Contents
10
10 13
13
The Complete Guide to
Landscape Projects
31
31
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Project Preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Lawncare Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Landscape Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Landscape Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Landscaping with Earth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Gallery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Grading Your Yard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Lawn Renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
37
37 43
43
Clearing Brush . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Creating a Windbreak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Building Raised Beds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Arroyo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Swales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
Landscape Bed & Patio Edging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 54
54
Low-voltage Landscape Lighting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
56
56 58
58
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Contents (Cont.)
80
80
Landscaping with Plants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Gallery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Planting Trees & Shrubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Tree Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
Pruning Trees & Shrubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Green Groundcover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 87
87 93
93
Mulching Beds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
Rain Garden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Xeriscape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Landscaping with Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Gallery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
104
104
Rain Barrel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Drip Irrigation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
In-ground Sprinkler System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Hard-shell Pond & Fountain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Freeform Garden Pond . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
Landscaping with Stone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 116
116
Gallery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Interlocking Block Retaining Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Stone Retaining Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
Drystack Stone Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146
Mortared Stone Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
110
110 122
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128
128
139
139
Repairing a Stone Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
Loose Rock Landscape Path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
Stepping Stone Landscape Path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
Timber & Gravel Landscape Steps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
Flagstone Landscape Steps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
Zen Garden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 143
143 159
159
Backyard Fire Pit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Carpentry Projects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
Gallery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
Compost Bin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188
Classic Garden Bridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
165
165
Trellis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
Bamboo Fence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
Picket Protection Fence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
Arbor Retreat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
Remote Tool Shed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
194
194
APPENDIX: Codes & Considerations . . . . . . . 231
Resources/Photo Credits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
Conversions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237
198
198 211
211
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Introduction
W e’re spending more time at home these days, investing in our properties to convert our outdoor spaces from
basic back yards into elaborate living rooms with areas for dining, lounging, gardening, playing, and perhaps
even swimming. Rather than planning vacations, many of us are plotting our next, big outdoor adventure—and
we’re talking about landscape projects. There’s great satisfaction that can be gained from completing a pond,
building an arbor, laying a flagstone pathway, or planting a colorful landscape bed. And we’re recognizing that the
more of this we do ourselves, the larger our budget is to do even more!
The Complete Guide to Landscape Projects will teach you how to create an outdoor living space with
features both luxurious and practical. We’ll walk you through the process from beginning to end, starting with
providing detailed tools and materials lists for each project. We give you tutorials for basic building techniques,
and inspiration for interesting finishes and treatments that will customize projects to suit the character of your
property and your personal preferences. For instance, our outdoor fireplace project shows you how to finish the
exterior in stone, brick, or stucco. We give you options, and we outline careful guidelines along the way. Think of
this book as your instructor as you take on important projects that will enhance your yard.
Whether you’re creating a landscape from scratch or renovating a mature property, we have ideas for you.
And better yet, each project provides step-by-step instructions with color photography. We think showing you how
projects come together is just as important as telling you with our field-tested directions.
There are projects in this book suitable for big back yards, quaint courtyards, small gardens, city landscapes,
suburban yards, and country estates. You can depend on this book for a variety of do-able landscape projects that
will stand the test of time.
Now, let’s get started! It’s time to get your hands dirty and begin building the landscape of your dreams. Who
needs a vacation when you can escape every day in your own back yard?
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Lawncare
& Design
A successful landscaping project requires a firm
foundation. Essentially, this comes down to dirt
and turf. Regardless of what you are building, your
yard must have good drainage and healthy soil. This
may require that you re-grade your yard, improve
drainage, create water runoff paths, or build retaining
walls or other landscape features to create level areas
and control erosion. In addition to its visual appeal,
the turf in your yard plays an important role in the
infrastructure by retaining topsoil and preventing
erosion. Promoting turf health through proper mowing
practices, adequate watering, lawn nutrition, and
regular maintenance will help preserve your landscape
for years to come.
In this chapter:
• Lawncare Basics
• Landscape Materials
• Tools
• Landscape Design
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Lawncare Basics
R egular lawn maintenance is an important element
of a successful landscape, but it does require
dedication. Keeping up with duties such as mowing,
watering, and turf nutrition will prevent disease and
keep weeds from forming—and you’ll use fewer
control products if you simply mow and water regularly
and sensibly. Addressing and correcting occasional
problems is another requirement of homeownership.
As we pay closer attention to the chemicals we
pour on to our lawns and the way we manage lawn
problems in an effort to be more mindful of the world
around us—you hear about this as “going green” or
being “sustainable”—these lawn basics (cultural
Controlling weeds keeps turf grass healthy so it can perform
practices) become even more essential. By following to its fullest as a canvas for landscaping creativity. Most yards
some core cultural practices, you can reach the goal of will benefit from a multi-pronged approach of pulling weeds,
a lush, healthy lawn without all the additives. selective chemical spraying, and organic weed control measures.
Regular lawnmowing is an important part of any lawn and yard maintenance program. A cordless lawnmower is a clean, quiet
equipment option.
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■ Lawnmowing Rules of Thumb
Proper lawnmowing practices will promote turf As you mow your lawn, you’ll realize just how
growth, discourage weeds and disease, and protect many imperfections may exist. Most lawns aren’t
soil from losing moisture. That’s why you don’t want to perfect squares, smooth and flat. You’ll likely deal with
give your lawn a buzz cut, even if that means you can ruts, slopes, and curvy bed lines. Handle all areas with
avoid mowing more than once a week during growing care, and take these safety precautions when mowing:
season. Always aim to cut off the top third of turf in
a single pass. The recommended height for your lawn • Use a trimmer in tight areas where an angle could
depends on turfgrass variety, so check with your local compromise your safety; or use a walk-behind
university extension for specific recommendations. mower rather than a riding lawn tractor.
The more you know about your turf, the better you • Use a line trimmer around trees before mowing.
can manage its growth in a healthy way. • Mow across slopes when using zero-turn riding
As for timing, while Saturday morning might mowers and walk-behind mowers. Mow directly up
be when you your schedule allows for some outdoor and down slopes when operating a riding mower.
leisure, your lawn won’t appreciate a mow that • Avoid sudden stops or turns when mowing slopes,
morning if it rained all night and the ground is sopping and always mow slowly and look behind you when
wet. For safety and turf health reasons, don’t mow operating in reverse.
when grass is wet. Mower wheels mat down turf, and • Always clear the mowing area of debris and
those stressed areas prevent sunlight from reaching children’s toys before mowing. Be sure children
roots—besides, diseases like those dark places. and pets are clear of the yard before mowing.
■ Mowing on Slopes
Slope
Slope
Mow directly up and down slopes when operating a Mow across slopes when cutting grass with a walk-
standard (not zero-turn radius) riding lawn mower. behind mower.
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■ Watering Basics
The amount of water your turf requires depends Essentially, soil is a filter that water must pass through
on many factors, including the grass variety in your to reach grass roots. So if soil is sandy and porous,
lawn and the soil conditions. Check with your water reaches roots quickly—sometimes so quickly
local university extension or lawn care specialist for that roots don’t have a chance to soak the water up
information on exactly how much water your lawn before it falls through the soil profile. Sandy soils
requires to stay healthy. That way, you won’t deprive require deep watering.
it—or over-water it and waste natural resources. Clay soils do not absorb moisture well. If you
Soil plays a major role in turf health. The type of notice puddles of water forming on the ground after
soil directly beneath the turf determines the rate at you water, it is likely that you have clay soil. Clay does
which water soaks in or is directed away as runoff. retain moisture longer than porous soil, but the trick to
watering turf in clay soil is getting enough water down
to the roots of the grass. Often, puddled water simply
runs off without penetrating deeper into the soil. Water
The Right Height ▸
clay soils more frequently for shorter periods of time.
How low should you mow? The primary rule is to cut Your soil might be a combination of clay and sand,
off one-third of the turf plant at one time. Whether or a silt composition that readily accepts water. The
you have just returned from vacation to find turf best advice is to carefully observe how your yard reacts
gone wild or you mow religiously every few days, to watering, and know how much water your grass
the same rule applies. Your goal is to maintain the type needs in the first place.
recommended height for your lawn and avoid giving Avoid over-watering your lawn by purchasing a
your turf a crew cut. rain gauge to find out how much water grass receives
The recommended height for your lawn varies each week. When you do sprinkle, it is best to do so
with turfgrass variety. Most grasses thrive when cut in the morning while temperatures are still relatively
at 2 to 3 inches in the fall and spring. Set your cutting cool and the water won’t evaporate as quickly. Night
deck higher in the summer, so grass can soak in the watering can promote fungus and other disease
sun, allowing it to grow and develop. Always mind because moisture will sit on grass blades for hours.
the recommended cutting height for your turfgrass Overly moist soil prevents oxygen from reaching grass
variety. For example, if you live in Florida and your roots and can result in root rot.
lawn is St. Augustine grass, turf height should range
from 2½ to 4 inches. Following the one-third rule, if
your lawn is 7 inches tall, you should remove a little The Trickle-Down Effect ▸
more than 2 inches at one time.
Sandy soils are more porous and allow water to seep
through quickly. Clay soils retain water for longer
periods of time, but the moisture takes longer to absorb.
By mowing at the proper height and controlling
thatch, water will soak in more efficiently and better
quench roots’ thirst. You’ll use less water and get
better results. Clay soil Sandy soil
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■ Feeding the Lawn
Fertilizer is essentially a vitamin boost for your Nonselective herbicides wipe out all green plants.
turf. It is most important if you are growing grass You might use these when clearing a grassy spot to
in challenging conditions—as many of us are. The build a pond or plant bed. Contact herbicides are
key is to strike a happy balance when using lawn spot treatments, and these generally require repeat
care products by applying the proper amounts at the applications. If you prefer not to apply product to
optimum times. In addition to chemical fertilizers, your entire lawn, you’d use contact herbicides to
there are organic methods of feeding the lawn, such manage weeds that crop up in specific areas.
as top-dressing with compost products following an • Pesticides and insecticides target lawn care
aeration. Also, regular maintenance tasks, such as problems and are generally reserved for use by
mowing and watering, keep your lawn healthy so the professionals, who can accurately identify disease
need for amendments is minimized. If you prefer, and insect problems and prepare a treatment plan.
you can follow an organic lawn regimen. You’ll find
many lawn care companies dedicated to “green” lawn
care using a minimal amount of product to achieve
a healthy lawn. But keep in mind your vision for the
grass: You’re not likely to achieve a golf-course green
lawn with an organic program. But then, you also
won’t be using the amount of product that stoking
grass into super-green mode requires.
Here are some basics you’ll want to build into your
plant turf nutrition program:
• Slow-release fertilizer feeds plants gradually over a
period of time.
• Herbicides are weed-control products available
in several forms: selective, nonselective, contact,
and systemic. Selective herbicides knock down Organic soil builders, including composted manure, peat moss,
certain weed species without affecting the growth and bone meal, improve soil in the same way as chemical additives
of other plants. Most herbicides are selective. but pose less danger to the environment from rainwater runoff.
■ Using a Drop Spreader
Always check that the spreader’s When operating a drop spreader, The best way to apply granular
release door is closed before filling the always overlap passes. Line up the fertilizer accurately is to divide the
hopper with product. Set the spreader center of the spreader to the center of application in half. Apply the first half in
over a paved surface so you can easily your last wheel track. one direction, then apply the second half
sweep up spills. in a path perpendicular to your first pass.
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Landscape Materials
F rom natural to manmade, the range of materials
available today for landscape projects offers many
options. You may choose materials that blend with
Cedar
your exiting yard and architectural features, or you
may go another direction entirely, such as preferring a
brand-new element to your yard because it is long- Pressure-
lasting or “green.” treated pine
Wood remains the single most popular building
material for outdoor construction, but stonescaping
projects have grown in popularity with a host of
natural and cultured products that are durable
and affordable.
Redwood
Pine
Cedar lattice
Pressure-treated lumber stamps list the type of preservative
and the chemical retention level, as well as the exposure rating Bark mulch
and the name and location of the treating company.
Cedar grade stamps list the mill number, moisture content,
species, lumber grade, and membership association. Western
red cedar (WRC) or incense cedar (INC) for decks should be
heartwood (HEART) with a maximum moisture content of
15% (MC15).
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METALS
Metal of various types is often used for fences and
gates. Aluminum offers a sturdy, lightweight, and
waterproof material that is available in a variety of
designs. Aluminum is also a popular material for lamp
posts. Galvanized chain-link steel is also a popular
choice for fencing, because it is relatively maintenance
free and reasonably priced. Chain link is also a
good choice where security is a concern. Traditional
wrought iron, though more expensive, is used for
fencing, railings, gates, and patio furniture.
PLASTICS
Plastic materials such as PVC vinyl and fiberglass
reinforced plastic (FRP) are generally used in
applications such as fencing, arbors, deck skirting, and
lawn edging. Many styles and sizes are available, and
they are strong, versatile, and require no maintenance.
Some fence materials are sold as kits, making
installation easy.
COMPOSITE MATERIALS
Composite materials blend together wood fibers and
plastics to create a rigid product that will not rot,
splinter, warp, or crack. These boards can be cut
with a circular saw, require little to no maintenance,
and don’t need to be painted or stained. Although
they’re typically more expensive than wood and other
alternatives, composites are extremely durable and
over the life of a structure can be less expensive than
wood, which may need to be replaced. Composites
are a good choice for decking, railing systems, and
landscaping timbers.
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MANUFACTURED STONE Interlocking retaining wall blocks
Manufactured stone is designed to resemble natural
stone, but because it’s more uniform it is easier to
install and generally costs less. Brick, concrete, and
glass block are being offered in more styles all the
time, giving you a lot of flexibility to build distinctive
projects that are also reasonably priced. Decorative
concrete block can be used to make screen walls and
is available in many colors.
Concrete paver slabs, available in several shapes
and sizes, are used for laying simple walkways and
patios. They’re available in a standard finish, a smooth
aggregate finish, or can be colored and molded to
resemble brick. Concrete paver slabs are relatively
Molded
inexpensive and quite easy to work with. They’re paver slabs
usually laid in a bed of sand and require no mortar.
Their surface is generally finished so the smooth
gravel aggregate is exposed, but they are also available
in plain pavers and aggregate.
Paver bricks resemble traditional kiln-dried clay
bricks but are more durable and easier to install. Paver
bricks come in many colors and shapes and are ideal
Paver
for paving patios, walkways, and driveways. Many bricks
varieties are available in interlocking shapes that can
be combined with standard bricks to create decorative
patterns, such as herringbone and basket weave.
Edging blocks are precast in different sizes for creating
boundaries to planting areas, lawns, loose-fill paths,
and retaining walls.
Exposed
aggregate
paver slabs
Concrete
paver
slabs
Bricks, concrete blocks, and glass blocks are best
suited for projects where the masonry units are mortared
together. They should not be used interchangeably with
pavers and other products that are designed to be loose-
stacked and sand-set.
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NATURAL STONE Fieldstone, sometimes called river rock, is used
Natural stone offers beautiful color, interesting to build retaining walls, ornamental garden walls,
texture, and great durability, making it one of the and rock gardens. When split into smaller pieces,
very best building materials for outdoor construction. fieldstone can be used in projects with mortar. When
Although it is more expensive than many other cut into small pieces, or quarried stone, fieldstone
materials, if it fits in your budget, you’re not likely to is called cobblestone, a common material in walks
regret choosing stone. It is a good choice for edging, and paths.
walls, walkways, ponds, fountains, and waterfalls. Ashlar, or wall stone, is quarried granite, marble,
Natural stone is also used to accent flowers and plants or limestone that has been smooth-cut into large
creating depth in garden areas (this is a great way to blocks, ideal for creating clean lines with thin mortar
use stone if you can’t afford huge amounts of it). joints. Cut stone works well for stone garden walls,
Each type of stone offers a distinctive look, as well but because of its expense, its use is sometimes
as a specific durability and workability. The nature of limited to decorative wall caps.
your project will often dictate the best form of stone to Flagstone is large slabs of sedimentary rock with
use. When shopping for stone, describe your project to naturally flat surfaces. Limestone, sandstone, slate,
the supplier and ask him or her to suggest a stone that and shale are the most common types of flagstone. It
meets your needs. is usually cut into pieces up to 3 inches thick, for use
in walks, steps, and patios. Smaller pieces—less than
16 inches square—are often called steppers.
Veneer stone is natural or manufactured stone
cut or molded for use in nonload-bearing, cosmetic
applications, such as facing exterior walls or
freestanding concrete block walls.
Rubble is irregular pieces of quarried stone,
usually with one split or finished face. It is widely
used in wall construction.
Fieldstone is stone gathered from fields, dry riverbeds, and
hillsides. It is used in wall construction.
A stone yard is a great place to get ideas and see the types
of stone that are available. This stone yard includes a display
Flagstone consists of large slabs of quarried stone cut into area that identifies different types of stone and suggests ways
pieces up to 3" thick. It is used in walks, steps, and patios. they can be used.
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■ Concrete
Poured concrete is used for driveways, walkways, curves and other shapes, such as landscape ponds
and patios because of its exceptional strength. or fountains.
Although it is sometimes criticized for its Another option for large projects, such as a
bland appearance, concrete in modern use is driveway or patio slab, is to have premixed concrete
often tinted or given a surface finish that lets it delivered by a ready-mix supplier. If you choose this
simulate brick pavers or flagstone at a fraction method, make sure you have plenty of help on hand to
of the cost. Concrete can also be formed into move and finish the concrete quickly.
Bagged concrete mix comes in many
D formulations. The selection you’re likely
to encounter varies by region and by
B C
time of year, but the basic products most
home centers stock include: all-purpose
concrete (A, C) for posts, footings, and
slabs; sand mix (B) for topping and casting;
Portland cement (D) for mixing with
A aggregate, sand, and water to make your
own concrete; high/early concrete (E) for
E driveways and other projects that demand
greater shock and crack resistance; fast-
setting concrete (F) for setting posts and
making repairs; specialty blends for specific
purposes, such as countertop mix (G),
which comes premixed with polyester
G fibers and additives that make it suitable
for countertops.
F
Liquid concrete products can be
added to the concrete mix while blending
or applied after the concrete sets up.
Concrete sealer (A) is applied to concrete
B immediately after set-up to seal and to
assist with the curing. Bonding additive (B),
usually latex or acrylic based, is added to
A the dry mix instead of water (or in addition
to water) to make the concrete more
elastic and help new concrete bond to
old concrete by sliding into crevices in old
concrete surfaces. Concrete colorant (C) is
added to the concrete while liquid for even
coloring that goes all the way through the
material. Dry pigments also may be added
to the wet mixture, or they are sometimes
scattered onto the surface of concrete
slabs during the troweling stage. Stucco
and mortar color (D) can be added to finish
coat stucco, mason mix, surface-bonding
cement, and heavy-duty masonry coating.
It is often premixed with water.
C D
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■ Block & Mortar
Laying brick and block is a precise business. Many
of the tools necessary for these projects relate to A B C
establishing and maintaining true, square, and level
structures, while others relate to cutting the masonry
units and placing the mortar. It makes sense to
purchase tools you’ll use again, but it’s more cost
effective to rent specialty items, such as a brick splitter.
Mortar mixes: Type N, a medium-strength mortar for above-
grade outdoor use in nonload-bearing (freestanding) walls,
barbeques, chimneys, and tuck-pointing (A); refractory mortar, a
calcium aluminate mortar that is resistant to high temperatures,
used for mortaring around firebrick in fireplaces and barbeques D
(B); Type S, a high-strength mortar for outdoor use at or below
grade, typically used in foundations, retaining walls, driveways,
walks, and patios (C); mortar tint for coloring mortar (D); and
you’ll need water for mixing mortar so a hose is needed (E) (a E
sprayer attachment is needed later to clean the surface).
D
E
A
B
C
F
J
H
I
G
Common types of brick and block used for residential construction include: decorative block (A) available colored or plain;
decorative concrete pavers (B); fire brick (C); standard 8 × 8 × 16" concrete block (D); half block (E); combination corner block (F);
queen-sized brick (G); standard brick pavers (H); standard building bricks (I); and limestone wall cap (J).
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■ Loose Materials
Loose materials for patios and walkways encompass permanence of traditional paving, loose materials have
a wide range of natural elements, from gravel to a casual, summery feel. Walking over a pathway of
wood chips to small river stones. You can use a loose crushed stone or wood chips can feel like a stroll down
material by itself to create a simple patio or path a country lane or a walk through the woods.
surface or use it as infill between an arrangement of As a primary surface, loose materials offer several
heavier materials, such as flagstone or large, concrete practical advantages. They drain well, are forgiving of
stepping pavers. In contrast to the solidity and uneven ground, and can be replenished and graded
with a rake for a quick facelift. They also tend to
be much less expensive than most other paving
options and couldn’t be easier to install. In a typical
installation, start with a bed of compacted gravel and
cover it with landscape fabric to inhibit weed growth
and separate the gravel base from the surface material.
Then, spread out the surface material a few inches
thick, compact it if necessary, and you’re done! For
simpler applications, such as a lightly traveled garden
path, you can often skip the gravel base and lay the
landscape fabric right over leveled and tamped soil. In
most cases, it’s best to include a raised edging of some
kind to contain the materials and maintain the shape
of the paved surface.
■ Selecting Loose Materials
Because different loose materials can have very
different textures and properties, it’s important to
choose the right surface for the application. Here’s a
look at some of the most popular materials for patios
and walkways:
Decomposed granite: A popular choice for
level patios, paths, and driveways, decomposed granite
(DG) can be compacted to a relatively smooth, flat,
hard surface. DG consists of small pieces of granite
ranging in size from sand-size grains to a quarter
inch—this size variation is the reason this material
is so compactable. DG is available in various natural
shades of gray, brown, and tan. Due to its gritty, sandy
finish that can stick to your shoes, DG is not a good
choice for surfaces that receive heavy traffic directly to
and from the house.
Pea gravel and crushed stone: Pea gravel and
crushed stone include a broad range of gravel, from
fairly fine textures to very coarse. Pea gravel is small-
Loose materials can work well on their own or as a to medium-sized stone that is either mechanically
complement to surrounding elements. In this landscape,
crushed or shaped naturally by water. Crushed stone
buff-colored gravel serves as both a primary surface and an
infill material for a stepping stone path. The natural look of the typically consists of coarse, jagged pieces in various
gravel provides a nice contrast to the formal paver walkway sizes, generally larger than pea gravel. Many types of
and patio. gravel are compactable, but usually less so than DG.
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Gravel made up of round stones is more comfortable
to walk on than jagged materials.
River rock: Smoothed and rounded by water
or machines, river rock ranges from small stones
to baseball-sized (and larger) rocks. These smooth
surfaces make it more comfortable to walk on than
jagged gravel but it is also less compactable and easily
displaced underfoot. Larger stones are difficult to walk
on and are more suitable for infill and accent areas
than for primary paving surfaces.
Wood chips: Wood chips and mulch are
commonly used as groundcover in planting beds, Pea gravel
gardens, and flowerbeds. Most types are soft and
springy underfoot, and many can be used for light-
traffic paths and even children’s play areas. Wood
chips come in a wide variety of grades, colors, and
textures. In general, finely chopped and consistent
materials are more expensive and more formal in
appearance than coarse blends. The term mulch
is often used interchangeably with wood chips but
can also describe roughly chopped wood and other
organic matter that’s best suited for beds and ground
cover. Most loose material made of wood needs some
replenishing every two to four years.
Both stone and wood loose materials are typically Crushed stone
sold in bulk at landscape and garden centers and by
the bag at home centers. Buying in bulk is often much
less expensive for all but the smallest jobs. Landscape
and garden suppliers typically offer bulk deliveries
for a reasonable flat fee. Due to the variance in
terminology and appearance of loose materials, be sure
to visit the supplier and take a look at the materials
you’re buying firsthand, so you know exactly what
to expect.
River rock
Decomposed granite Wood chips
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■ Estimating & Ordering Materials
Even with small projects, it’s important to take careful
measurements and estimate accurately. Landscaping
materials are bulky and are expensive and time
consuming to transport, so accurate estimating will
save you time and money.
Begin compiling a materials list by reviewing the
scale drawing of your building plans (pages 30 to 33),
then use the information here to estimate materials.
Once you have developed a materials list, add 10
percent to the estimate for each item to allow for
waste and small oversights.
The cost of your project will depend upon which
building materials you choose. You can save money
by choosing materials that are readily available in
your area. This is particularly true of natural stone
products. Choosing stone that is quarried locally is
far less expensive than exotic stone transported long
distances. Lumber, metal, and plastics can also vary
widely in price, depending on where they’re milled
or manufactured.
Most of what you need is available at large,
general-purpose home centers, but for landscaping
projects you may want to buy some materials
from specialty retailers. A large concrete project,
for example, will be cheaper if you buy ready-mix
concrete instead of bagged concrete mix from your
home center.
If you plan on working with specialty or alternative
materials, such as vinyl fencing or composite decking,
A contractor’s calculator can convert measurements and
many home centers will have a select range of estimate concrete volume. The calculator isn’t very expensive
styles and sizes on hand but can also order specialty and will relieve you of complex math conversions. It’s also
materials for you. handy for estimating fencing materials and paint coverage.
HoW To ESTIMATE MATERIALS
Sand, gravel, topsoil (2" layer) surface area (sq. ft.) ÷ 100 = tons needed
Standard brick pavers for walks (2" layer) surface area (sq. ft.) × 5 = number of pavers needed
Standard bricks for walls and pillars (4 × 8") surface area (sq. ft.) × 7 = number of bricks needed (single-brick thickness)
Poured concrete (4" layer) surface area (sq. ft.) × .012 = cubic yards needed
Flagstone surface area (sq. ft.) ÷ 100 = tons needed
Interlocking block (2" layer) area of wall face (sq. ft.) × 1.5 = number of blocks needed
Ashlar stone for 1-ft.-thick walls area of wall face (sq. ft.) ÷ 15 = tons of stone needed
Rubble stone for 1-ft.-thick walls area of wall face (sq. ft.) ÷ 35 = tons of stone needed
8 × 8 × 16" concrete block for freestanding walls height of wall (ft.) × length of wall (ft.) × 1.125 = number of blocks needed
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AMounT oF ConCRETE nEEDED (Cu. FT.)
number of 8"- Depth of footings (ft.)
diameter footings 1 2 3 4
2 ¾ 1½ 2¼ 3
3 1 2¼ 3½ 4½
4 1½ 3 4½ 6
5 2 3¾ 5¾ 7½
DRy InGREDIEnTS FoR SELF-MIx
Amount of concrete 94-lb. bags of Cubic feet Cubic feet 60-lb. bags of premixed
needed (cu. ft.) portland cement of sand of gravel dry concrete
1 1
⁄6 1
⁄3 ½ 2
2 1
⁄3 2
⁄3 1 4
3 ½ 1½ 3 6
4 ¾ 1¾ 3½ 8
5 1 2¼ 4½ 10
10 2 4½ 9 20
1 cubic foot ConCRETE CovERAGE
volume Thickness Surface coverage
1 cu. yd. 2" 160 sq. ft.
1 cu. yd. 3" 110 sq. ft.
1 cu. yd. 4" 80 sq. ft.
3 ft. long
1 cu. yd. 5" 65 sq. ft.
1 cu. yd. 6" 55 sq. ft.
1 cu. yd. 8" 40 sq. ft.
4" thick
1 ft. wide
To estimate concrete volume, measure the width and
length of the project in feet, then multiply the dimensions
to get the square footage. Measure the thickness in feet
(4" thick equals 1⁄3 ft.), then multiply the square footage
times the thickness to get the cubic footage. For example, Local brick and stone suppliers will often help you design
1 ft. × 3 ft. × 1⁄3 ft. = 1 cu. ft. Twenty-seven cubic feet equals your project and advise you about estimating materials, local
1 cubic yard. building codes, and climate considerations.
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Tools
T he landscaper’s tool shed contains a range of basic
hand tools, larger specialty tools, masonry tools,
and power tools. As you take on projects in this book,
loader would be a fun outdoor toy, it’s just not a
necessity for most of us.
For tools you decide to purchase, invest in the
you’ll gradually expand your everyday tool box to a best you can afford. Metal tools should be made
well-rounded collection that could easily fill a shed. from high-carbon steel with smoothly finished
You may not want to purchase every tool, and that’s surfaces. Hand tools should be well-balanced and
where rental centers come in handy. Many landscape have tight, comfortably molded handles. Pick up the
supply and hardware stores also have equipment tool. How does it feel? Ergonomics are a big deal
available for rent. If you’ll use the equipment one because you’ll be spending lots of time handling
time, or on a very limited basis, this is the most cost- your basic tools. Consider the length of the shaft on
effective way to acquire the tools you need without shovels, landscape rakes, etc. You can find adjustable
investing heavily in equipment that will sit unused 99 options that allow you to “size” the equipment to suit
percent of the time. Let’s face it: While a front-end your body.
A
B
C
G
D
E
F
Portable power tools that come in handy for landscape construction include: power miter saw (A), cordless drill/
driver (B), reciprocating saw (cordless or corded) (C), hammer drill with ½" chuck for drilling masonry (D), jigsaw (E), nailer (cordless
or pneumatic) (F), circular saw (cordless or corded) (G).
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C
D
A
E
B
H
F
G I
L K
J
P
Q
S
M n o
v
T
u
R
W
x
y
AA BB
Z
Hand tools include: caulk gun (A), tape measure (B), chalk line (C), compass (D), garden hose (E), bow saw (F), plumb bob (G),
combination square (H), speed square (I), pressure sprayer (J), mason’s line (K), square and round shovels (M), garden rake (N),
posthole digger (O), hoe (P), carpenter’s level (Q), framing square (R), putty knife (S), wood chisel (T), awl (U), socket wrench set (V),
hammer (W), rubber mallet (X), pruning shears (Y), metal shears (Z), bar clamps (AA), and pipe clamps (BB).
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C
A B
G
H
D
E
F
Specialty tools for landscape and yard work include: weed trimmer for clearing light brush (A), power tamper for
compacting soil and subbase material (B), power sod cutter (C), garden rake or bow rake (D), come-along manual winch to assist in
moving heavy objects (E), post-hole digger (F), gas-powered auger (G), pick axe (H).
A skid loader can be rented by the hour or by the day to help A wheelbarrow is an essential tool for practically any
you with major earth-moving projects. Be sure to get plenty of landscaping project. A 4-cubic foot, steel wheelbarrow like the
detailed operating instructions from the rental center staff. one above is small enough that most DIYers can handle it. If
you’ll be moving larger amounts of soil, stone, or bricks, look
for a larger 6-to-7 cubic foot model, preferably with poly or
structural foam construction.
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A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
Layout, marking, and leveling tools: framing square (A), speed square (B), line level (C), plumb bob (D), post level (E),
chalk line (F), landscape marking paint (G), combination square (H), mason’s string (I).
Safety Gear ▸
B
A
C
F
D
E
G
Safety gear for stonework includes: protective knee pads (A), steel-toe work boots (B), hard hat (C), eye protection (D),
hearing protection (E), particle mask (F), sturdy gloves (G).
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■ Hardware & Fasteners
Although they’re rarely visible, the metal brackets, Web site (see page 235). Always use the fasteners
screws, nails, bolts, and other hardware items can be recommended by the manufacturer.
crucial to a successful landscaping project. The chemicals now used in pressure-treated
Metal anchors are a common type of hardware lumber may require metal connectors specially
used for landscape projects and decks. Some of the designed to withstand the corrosive effect of these
most common types are shown in the photo below. chemicals. Specifically, manufacturers suggest that
Used to reinforce framing connections, many of the metal connectors used with pressure-treated lumber
anchors called for in the various projects (and all of be galvanized with a hot-dip process rather than a
the anchors in the sheds and outbuilding projects) mechanical zinc plating. Triple-dipped, hot-dipped
are Simpson Strong-Tie brand, which are commonly galvanized fasters are the best.
available at lumberyards and home centers. If Alternatively, you can use stainless steel fasteners
you can’t find what you need on the shelves, look with pressure-treated lumber. Do not use aluminum
through the manufacturer’s catalog, or visit their fasteners with pressure-treated lumber.
Metal connectors are time-savers
when doing landscape construction. Buy
triple-dipped, galvanized connectors when
B available. Types with possible application
in landscape construction include: joist
hanger (A), skewed joist hanger (B), rafter
tie (C), stair cleat (D), 3-part post standoff
with washer and nut (E), corner bracket (F),
deck joist tie (G), hurricane tie (H), post
cap/saddle (I), stand-off post anchors (J).
A J
I
C
D
H
E
G
F
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Nails, screws, bolts, washers, nuts, and lag Stainless steel is the other common alternative
screws for outdoor use must be resistant to corrosion. when working with pressure-treated lumber. Although
Generally, metals are coated with some additional these fasteners are somewhat expensive, they have
material to make them weatherproof. You may see excellent weather resistance.
products coated with materials like epoxy and ceramic. When working with composite lumber, use the
But the best choice may be the old standby— fasteners recommended by the lumber manufacturer.
galvanized steel. “Composite” screws often are designed with a
Galvanized steel has a zinc coating. If you are special head shape that prevents the screws from
working with pressure-treated lumber, it’s important mushrooming when driven into composite material.
that the nails, screws, bolts, and other fasteners be There are a number of head-driving options available
double or triple hot-dipped, a process that improves for exterior-rated screws. Square and torx-drive screws
and thickens the bond between the zinc and steel. will not slip while fastening like phillips heads. Posi-drive
Look for the phrase “hot-dipped” or “HDG” on the screws are very popular because they combine phillips and
package when buying galvanized hardware. square-drive heads, giving you a choice of which to use.
Specialty nails and screws for
landscaping projects include: Metal
connector nails (A), color-plated screws (B),
stainless steel screws (C), galvanized
screws (D), composite screws (E).
Composite screws have a slightly different
head and thread configuration.
A B C D E
D
C
B
A
F E A B C D
Common fasteners include: J-bolt with nut and washer (A), Head styles for exterior screws include: Posi-drive (A),
carriage bolts with washers and nuts (B, C), galvanized lag torx (B), square drive (C), and phillips (D).
screws and washers (D), corrosion-resistant deck screws (E),
masonry anchors (F).
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Landscape Design
B efore you dig into the projects in this book, take
the time to brainstorm and make a wish list of
how you imagine your outdoor space could look. If
the information you need to create all other landscape
drawings. Good measurements are also essential for
projects where building permits are required.
your goal is to create an outdoor room, consider what Make a rough sketch of your yard, then make
elements you’ll want to include to accomplish this. measurements that are as accurate as possible. Some
Now, get out a scratch pad and begin making some landscape projects require digging, so contact your
rough drawings of your dream landscape. Think big local utility companies to mark the locations of any
picture, not project-by-project. Each feature we’ll underground power, gas, or communications lines. If
teach you to build complements another project, and the property boundaries aren’t clear, you may also need
you’ll find as you build that you want to keep adding to contact your county surveyor’s office to come and
more elements to your outdoor space. There’s no mark the precise boundary lines for you. This can be
limit! But, you’ll want to take this grand plan in stages, very important if your landscaping plans will include a
which is why your first task is to create a priority list fence or garden wall that adjoins the property line.
and start with defining, foundation elements: patios, Straight lines and square corners are easy enough
fences, retaining walls. to measure and mark, but it can be a bit harder to
Now that you have an idea of how various projects precisely locate features that have irregular shapes, or
will fit into your overall landscape design, you’ll want features that are angled in relation to the main property
to focus on the task at hand. While not all landscape lines. In this case, you can use a method called
projects require a detailed plan, drawings will help you triangulation to determine precise positions. On a
navigate complicated projects with many steps. Here, square lot, for example, you can determine the location
we’ll show you how to survey your yard, draw a site of a large tree most accurately by measuring the
map, sketch bubble plans, draw a landscape design, distance to the tree from two corners of the property.
and create a working drawing you can take to the On a yard with significant slopes, make cross-
field—your back yard, that is. section drawings, called elevations, to indicate the
Measuring your yard doesn’t have to be done with vertical rise of the landscape. Elevations are drawings
precise surveying equipment, but it is very helpful that show the landscape as viewed from the side.
to spend some time with a tape measure before you They’ll be important for planning fence, garden wall,
begin drawing plans. These measurements provide or retaining wall projects.
Measure the position of all the features of your yard, Use the survey measurements to create a rough drawing
relative to the property lines. This work may require a helper of your yard.
and a long tape measure.
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Using your survey measurements and the rough The site map is an overhead view of your yard, drawn
sketch, you’ll now create a more accurate and precise to scale. It is the basis for the finished landscape design.
drawing of your yard, called a site map. This is A scale of 1⁄8" = 1 ft. is a good scale to use for
nothing more than a drawing that shows the basic site maps and landscape plans. At this scale, you can
permanent features of your yard. It will include the map a yard as big as 60 × 80 ft. on a standard sheet
property lines and all buildings on the site, as well of paper, or an 80 × 130-ft. yard on a 11 × 17" sheet
as other permanent structures, like driveways or of paper. If your yard is bigger than this, you can tape
large trees. several sheets together.
Convert all the measurements
you made in the survey to scale
measurements. Then outline your yard by
drawing the straight boundaries to scale.
Where you triangulated measurements
from property corners, set a compass
to the scale measurements, then draw
arcs on the drawing. Where the arcs
intersect is the precise location of the
triangulated measurements.
Use a plastic triangle and ruler to mark
the edges and corners of all structures
within the boundaries of your yard.
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■ Sketching Bubble Plans
Bubble plans are rough sketches in which you play of ideas before settling on one that will eventually turn
with different ideas for arranging features within your into a final landscape design.
overall yard. They are a great way to test out different The place to start is with lots of photocopies of
ideas before committing to them. You might, for the site map you’ve created. Or, you can use tracing
example, draw your yard with a patio positioned in paper to play with bubble plan ideas. Tracing paper is
different locations to see how it feels in relationship to available at art supply stores.
your deck and garden beds. Make sure to include the other members of your
Draw lots of variations of your ideas, and feel household in this important planning step. They’ll
free to play with ideas that seem a little extreme. be enthusiastic about the work if you’ve included
Professional designers sometimes go through dozens everyone in the planning process.
Sketch the landscape features you’re
considering on a photocopy or tracing
paper copy of your site map. Feel free to
experiment; it costs nothing to dream.
You can test different bubble plans
in your yard by outlining features with
stakes and string. You can use cardboard
cutouts to represent stepping-stones
and walkways.
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■ Creating a Landscape Design
Once your bubble plan experiments have yielded will help to have several copies of your final site map
a plan you like, it’s time to turn it into a formal when you begin.
landscape design. The landscape design will serve as The key to a professional-looking design is to
a road map for your future landscape. It’s particularly use smooth flowing lines rather than straight lines
helpful if you have a big landscape renovation planned and sharp angles. Aim for a feeling of continuous
that will take several seasons to complete. flow through the different areas of your landscape.
The landcape design can be a chance to have In the final design, the boundaries of the spaces
some artistic fun. You can illustrate your design in should resemble the rounded flowing lines of your
color, if you want. You may have a few false starts, so it bubble plan.
On a fresh copy of your site map, outline the hardscape Add symbols and textures for any remaining elements,
features, including patio or deck surfaces, fences, walls, then use colored pencils to finish the design.
hedges, garden areas, and pathways.
■ Creating Working Drawings
The final step of this planning process is the starting is what will let you estimate materials and organize
point for the actual projects you’ll find on the pages your steps.
of this book. Working drawings are individual plans Working plans serve the same function for
for specific projects within your overall landscape. If landscape construction as blueprints do for builders
you happen to be working from a pre-existing plan, creating a house. The working plan is a bare-bones
such as a deck or gazebo blueprint, you may not version of a plan drawing that includes only the
need to make your own drawings. If you’re designing measurements and specifications needed to actually
your own project, though, making working drawings create the project.
On an enlargment of your landscape design, or using Create detailed plan and elevation drawings for your
tracing paper, make a more detailed overhead view of the project. List all dimensions on the drawing, and indicate size,
specific project, showing structural measurements. type, and quantities of lumber and hardware needed.
Project Preparation ■ 33
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Green Landscapes ▸
As any backyard gardener knows, getting things to grow Choosing plants that are well-adapted to the local
involves a great deal of trial and error . . . and also time, climate (and your yard’s microclimate) is the first step in
money, patience, and even wonder: How can it be that creating a green landscape, both literally and figuratively.
your next-door neighbor has more perfect tomatoes than In many regions, this also means limiting the amount of
she knows what to do with when all you can produce is conventional grass because of its insatiable thirst for water.
a handful of mealy specimens each year? It could be her The next step is to look for ways to use water more efficiently
soil or her technique, but most likely the difference is that and for collecting free water when Mother Nature provides it
her backyard’s microclimate is a better environment for (good luck to those of you in Colorado and the Southwest).
growing tomatoes. When it comes to the manmade elements of the
In the bigger picture, this imbalance occurs not just landscape, the basic precepts of green building apply:
across the globe but also from county to county. Yet, you Choose renewable, recyclable, and healthful materials
can visit any garden center in, say, Colorado, and find a such as recycled-plastic decking and locally produced
huge selection of plants that evolved not on the Western mulch. Also consider permeable paving in place of
plains but in coastal climates or even the dampest concrete and asphalt to keep storm runoff in the ground
regions of Scotland. These plants may survive in the dry instead of loading up the sewer system with water and all
Colorado air with enormous amounts of irrigation and the yard and driveway chemicals it brings with it. In this
probably lots of chemicals, but it begs the question: Why illustration you’ll find some of the features you’ll find in a
fight nature? well-planned, low-maintenance landscape.
A green yard tends to look very natural and very at-home in its surroundings. It should be populated with native plants
that don’t require heroic efforts to thrive and it should require little or no watering or chemical fertilization. Ideally, a
green yard also has a positive impact on your home and property by providing valuable shade or preventing soil erosion.
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Author ISBN # Author's review
Green Living 0781760607 (if needed)
Fig. # Document name OK Correx
F02 F02.eps
Artist Date Initials Date
12/05/2007
Accurate Art, Inc.
Check if revision CE's review
BxW 2/C 4/C OK Correx
ELEMENTS OF A GREEN YARD
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
Initials Date
29w x 22d
organically managed garden and lawn turf
Turf limited to recreation areas
Shade trees for summer cooling
Compost bins
Plantings grouped
by water needs
Permeable paving on patio
and driveway surfaces
Evergreen trees
for winter windbreak
Mulch covering
native plants exposed soil
for wildlife habitat
Ground cover or hearty grasses
in place of conventional turf
Rainwater collection system
Drip irrigation systems
Locally adapted plantings
suited to microclimates
Project Preparation ■ 35
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Landscaping
with Earth
T hese projects are the foundation of your landscape
design, and that includes changing the shape of
your terrain, clearing areas, planting large specimens,
and creating dramatic beds. All of these projects
involve digging and somehow altering the physical
form of your landscape, whether by creating a dry
bed of natural stone such as an Arroyo, or by building
raised garden beds so you can plant a bountiful herb
garden. The work you complete in these projects will
change your yard’s structure and feel by improving
drainage, preventing wind damage, adding privacy with
trees, and installing mechanicals like lighting.
In this chapter:
• Gallery
• Grading Your Yard
• Lawn Renovation
• Clearing Brush
• Creating a Windbreak
• Building Raised Beds
• Arroyo
• Swales
• Landscape Bed & Patio Edging
• Low-voltage Landscape Lighting
■ 37
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Gallery
Rolling land has charm and character that can be enhanced by the addition of well-sited fences, walls and structures. If your
property is flatter than you’d like, you may be able to create berms and terraces with earth, but take care that you don’t cause any
drainage problems in the process.
A few prominent rocks placed in a lush planting bed add contrasting textures and, depending on the type, size and accessibility,
can even provide a perch from which the plant life can be observed and enjoyed.
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Retaining wall blocks can be used
to create flat terraces in hilly lawns,
making them more usable. They can
also make a flat yard look more
interesting when they’re used to create
planting beds that are well integrated
into the landscape. Used with some
restraint, ornamental yard accessories
heighten visual interest and make your
yard unique. Some, such as this birdbath
and birdfeeder, have a purpose that goes
beyond simply being decorative.
Add a hardscaping element to create a buffer between two parts of the yard that have little in common visually. The loose-laid
flagstone pathway seen here softens the overall look of the yard by tying the perennial bed to the lawn and planting area.
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Create an inviting, usable yard area by clearing brush and Repeating shapes in your garden is a fun way to draw your
leveling the ground in and around a pre-existing landscape guests into the surroundings, as this birds-eye view reveals.
feature, such as this stand of maples.
Planting shorter plants in the front of a planting bed and increasing height as you move away is a common landscaping
technique. You may find, however, that reversing the two can have a surprising effect that you find pleasing.
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Some creative work with your pruning shears can have entertaining results in your landscape. Tall arborvitae, boxwood
hedgerows and ornamental shrubs co-exist nicely in this well-tended yard.
Loose gravel pathways look very
natural in any landscape, plus they have
the added benefit of helping to channel
and control water runoff. Here, gravel
and river rock are layered into a drainage
swale to make the area walkable without
negatively affecting its drainage role.
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Grading Your Yard
T he indicators that your property may need some
re-grading work can be subtle, but because the
effects are usually troublesome it pays to examine
complicated. In most cases, you’ll start with a four-
inch to six-inch layer of topsoil to spread over the yard
so you can fill in sunken areas and smooth out gradual
your yard carefully and correct any problems you slopes. Your goal is to establish a grade that controls
discover. You may not realize the reason that you runoff by sloping gently away from the house.
have difficulty growing grass and plants is because
an “off” grade ushers water into low-lying areas of
your property, causing boggy zones that drown plant
life. And a poor grade is often the culprit behind a
perpetually wet basement. When land slopes toward
the foundation of a home, water run-off follows this
path to the base of the house. You can solve these
issues by grading your yard correctly, which means
achieving a gradual slope away from the house of
about ¾ inch per horizontal foot.
Generally, a landscape contractor manages the
initial grading of a yard, but you can do the work
yourself to save money. The job is time-consuming
and a bit labor-intensive, but it isn’t especially
Tools & Materials ▸
Line level Tape
Grading rake Hand tamp
Stakes Topsoil
A skid loader or a comparable compact earthmoving vehicle is
Shovels Wheelbarrow essential for large re-grading projects. Generally, homeowners are
String well advised to hire professional landscapers for groundwork that
requires more than a shovel and a garden rake to accomplish.
Leveling a Yard ▸
If you want a perfectly flat surface for playing sports or to
create a play surface for children, outline the perimeter of
this area with evenly placed stakes. Extend a string fitted
with a line level between a pair of stakes and adjust the
string until it’s level. At 2-ft. intervals, measure down from
the marked areas of the string to the ground. Add and
remove topsoil as necessary, distributing it with a garden
rake until the surface under the string is level. Repeat the
process until the area is level.
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■ How to Measure and Establish a Grade
1 2
Drive a stake into the soil at the base of the foundation Working away from the base of the house, add soil to
and another at least 8 ft. out into the yard along a straight line low areas until they reach the desired height. Using a garden
from the first stake. Attach a string fitted with a line level to rake, evenly distribute the soil over a small area. Measure
the stakes and level it. Measure and flag the string with tape at down from the 1-ft. markings as you work to make sure that
1-ft. intervals. Measure down from the string at the tape flags, you are creating a ¾" per 1 ft. pitch. Add and remove soil as
recording your measurements to use as guidelines for adding needed until soil is evenly sloped, then move on to the next
or removing soil to create a correct grade. area and repeat the process.
3 4
Use a hand tamp to lightly compact the soil. Don’t After all the soil is tamped, use a grading rake to remove
overtamp the soil or it could become too dense to grow a any rocks or clumps. Starting at the foundation, pull the
healthy lawn or plants. rake in a straight line down the slope. Dispose of any rocks
or construction debris. Repeat the process, working on one
section at a time until the entire area around the house
is graded.
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Lawn Renovation
I f your lawn is a teenager—say 15 years old, or
so—it might be time to give the yard a fresh start by
renovating it. Over time, thatch buildup can choke out
Other symptoms of a lawn that needs renovation
include dead spots or areas of sparse growth, which can be
due to infertile soil, drought, insect damage, poor mowing
healthy grass and promote weeds and disease. Thatch practices, disease, soil compaction, or too much shade.
is a layer of partially decomposed grass stems, roots, Generally speaking, if 20 to 40 percent of your lawn is
and rhizomes at the soil surface. An indication of too dead or dying, you can remedy the problem through lawn
much thatch is a spongy, soft lawn that doesn’t take renovation. If more than 40 percent of your lawn is in dire
well to watering and fertilizers. condition, you will need to reseed or re-sod your lawn.
Thatch hides below the grass surface, so you may need to cut out a 6"-deep wedge so you can measure the level of thatch. If
you can see that the thatch is deeper than ½", then you’ve got some lawn renovation to do.
■ First, Diagnose the Problem
Before you begin the lawn renovation process, determine moisture) might have contributed to the lawn’s
why your lawn is failing. Once you identify the cause, you condition? The fix might be as simple as trimming
can take corrective action during the renovation process back a tree canopy that’s preventing a patch of your
and start fresh with proper cultural practices such as lawn from receiving adequate sunlight. Usually, the
mowing, fertilizing, and watering as soon as the process is problem stems from a variety of issues: thatch and an
complete. Careful observation and taking soil samples for insect problem, plus a dry summer—you get the idea.
analysis can shed light on what’s ailing your lawn. A soil test is the best way to get to the root of a
Some of the diagnostic questions you’ll need to lawn problem. By collecting soil samples and testing
ask are: How thick is the thatch (see photo above)? the soil pH level, which is its acidity and alkalinity,
How much of your lawn is overtaken with weeds? you’ll have the information you need to feed the soil
What weather conditions (heat, drought, excessive nutrients to help repair the lawn.
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Testing Your Soil ▸
You’ll have greater success growing healthy plants and provide a testing kit with a calibrated vial to contain the
groundcover if you test your soil and amend it based blended soil sample. Soil reports vary quite a bit in their
on the test results. You can purchase soil test kits at thoroughness, but a typical report from an agriculture
garden stores, or you can send a sample to a university extension will note soil texture, pH level, and levels of
extension for testing. Collect small soil samples from essential nutrients, including nitrogen, potassium, and
several different spots in your yard. Mix these samples phosphorous. The report also will suggest fertilizer types
together, then send a portion of it to the lab. Most labs and spread rates.
■ How to Collect Soil Samples
1 2
Collect small soil samples from several spots in your yard, Mix the soil samples together in a small, clean plastic
and from multiple depths. You can use a shovel, trowel, or bucket. Blend the samples thoroughly. You may get a sample
even a spoon to collect the samples. Or, you can purchase bag from a laboratory for this purpose. Prepare the sample
a soil probe that will give you neat samples with minimal by loading the specified amount of soil into the vial or bag
disturbance to the surrounding turf. provided with your kit.
3
Complete the lab order form, indicating which plants you Option: Use an instant-read tester to find and monitor the pH
intend to grow. A basic test will provide your soil pH level and level in your soil.
other information you need to determine whether your soil
needs amendments.
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■ Prepare the Site
Before you rent a power aerator or vigorously rake You may decide to hire a professional to verticut
thatch from your lawn, prepare the site by removing or aerate your lawn. This equipment is also available
weeds and replenishing soil moisture (if dry). for rent, so if you partner up with a neighbor, you can
You’ll have a tough time aerating or dethatching. split the cost and share the aerator or verticutter for
Depending on the type and number of weeds, a day. You’ll save time and your back by preparing the
you can physically remove them or you can use a lawn by machine. Dethatching by hand is best for
selective or nonselective herbicide to wipe out the small areas.
unwanteds. For instance, if weeds are primarily
broad-leaved, you can use a broad leaf herbicide
on the entire lawn. (Then, wait two to four weeks
before overseeding.) If crabgrass or patches of
weeds are a problem, consider treating the spots
with a nonselective herbicide that will kill all of
the growth in that area. Be careful to protect the
surrounding, healthy lawn. As its name indicates,
nonselective herbicides don’t discriminate when
they kill off growth. Always follow label instructions
and wear proper safety gear, including eye and
hand protection.
The best time of year to renovate your lawn is
in the fall. But in many regions, this is also the time
when lawns are most parched after a hot, dry summer.
Replenishing moisture is an important step prior to
dethatching, aerating, and overseeding a lawn. If
the ground is too dry, the job will be more physically
demanding as you try to loosen hard ground, and less
effective because seed will not establish in a dusty soil
profile. Soil should be moist to a depth of six inches
before you begin working it, which could take days to
achieve. Don’t rush this process.
■ Establish a Healthy Lawn
Removing thatch doesn’t have to be a back-breaking
chore if you use power equipment such as a vertical
mower (also called a verticutter) or an aerator. These
two machines operate quite differently, but they can
both accomplish the goal of loosening thatch from
soil and creating more breathing room for healthy
turf to receive water and sunlight so it will thrive. A
vertical mower works by pushing tines into the soil
surface to a depth of 1⁄8 to ½ inch. These tines pull
up thatch in clumps, which then can be raked away.
An aerator removes soil plugs, leaving cores of soil
on the lawn that can be left to dry and break down
back into the soil. If you choose to aerate a lawn
Seasonal maintenance is an important ingredient to a
with heavy thatch, go over the lawn three to five healthy yard. Leaf collection in the fall and a gentle raking in
times and allow soil plugs to dry (or remove them) the spring (after grass plants have reestablished) will allow air
before overseeding. to feed the plants.
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■ Lawn Renovation Tips
Thatch Weeds Compacted roots aerated soil Grass seed
A lawn choked with weeds and excess thatch (left) will be more prone to bare spots and brown patches. Weed abatement,
thatch removal, aeration, and reseeding create the proper conditions for healthy lawn growth (right).
Repairing Bare Spots ▸
If your lawn is plagued with dying areas, you’ll need to determine the cause and take preventive measures to keep the
grass from dying again. Once the problem is solved, sprinkle grass seed over the bare area, lightly rake it into the soil,
and gently tamp the soil down. Keep the area moist for at least two weeks while the seed germinates. Use the following
guidelines to resolve common problems:
CauSE SoLuTIon
Dog damage Immediately water areas where the dog urinates.
Compacted soil Aerate the area, or till in an amendment, such as compost or peat moss.
Chemical burn Remove several inches of topsoil from the bare area.
Disease Consult your local extension service for diagnosis and treatment.
Foot traffic Install a path or stepping stones to accommodate traffic.
Insects Consult your local extension service for recommendations.
Reading Grass Seed Container Labels ▸
The type of grass you select will play a large part in the success of your lawn. But it can be difficult to tell exactly what
you’re buying. Whether it’s a prepackaged blend or seed sold by the pound in bulk, there will always be a label that tells
you exactly what type of seeds are included in that blend.
PuRE SEEd VaRIETY GERMInaTIon Pure Seed: the percentage of seeds for each variety that
42% Colonel Kentucky Bluegrass 88% are capable of growing.
Germination: the portion of the pure seed that will
33% Fine Perennial Ryegrass 78%
germinate within a reasonable amount of time.
21% Red Tall Fescue 80%
Inert Matter: materials present in the blend, such as
0.4% Inert Matter broken seeds, hulls, and chaff, that aren’t capable of growing.
1.2% Crop Crop: the percentage of agricultural grain and undesirable
2.4% Weed grass seed contained in the blend.
Weed: the portion of weed seeds present in the blend.
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■ How to Renovate a Lawn
1 2
Spot-treat weeds by applying selective herbicides using Remove thatch with a vertical mower. Set tines to rake 1⁄8"
a pressure sprayer. Use a broadleaf herbicide to treat to ½" below the surface of the soil. Push the mower in straight
weeds such as dandelion and clover. Choose a nonselective passes. Then make a second pass over the entire lawn working
herbicide for crabgrass and quackgrass. Be careful to protect in a perpendicular direction to the first passes. Cover the area
healthy turf. in a grid pattern. Rake up and discard removed thatch.
3 4
Use an aerator to alleviate soil compaction and improve Use a broadcast spreader with a fertilizer blend (refer to
drainage by removing small cores of soil from the lawn. Run soil report for appropriate NPK ratio). Calibrate the spreader
the machine across your lawn using the grid pattern described according to instructions on the fertilizer package. Distribute
in step 2. Allow soil cores to dry partially, then rake them up. the fertilizer evenly across the lawn. Fertilizer may need to be
(Some can be left to decompose completely.) Follow by using a watered in before seeding. Follow by filling spreader with seed
vertical mower or leaf rake to scratch and loosen the surface. and distributing evenly.
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■ How to Repair Lawn Damage
1 2
Moisten the damaged area, and use a garden fork to break Spread grass seed over the repair area. Select seed that
up the soil. Rake out dead grass or other debris. matches the grass type in your lawn—this often is a blend of
several different types. Broadcast the seed at the coverage
rate recommended on the package.
3 4
Fertilize the new grass plants with a grass seed starter Water the repair area thoroughly, but not so much that
formulation. Again, use the coverage rate specified on you cause fertilizer granules or seeds to wash away. Install
the package. stakes and strings around the repair area to discourage foot
traffic. Water the area daily until the new grass has established.
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Clearing Brush
N uisance trees, invasive plants, and thorny
groundcovers latch on to your land and form a
vegetative barrier, greatly limiting the usefulness of
gloves, long sleeves, and eye protection. Follow a
logical workflow when clearing brush—generally,
clean out the tripping hazards first so you can access
a space. Before you can even think of the patio plan the bigger targets more safely.
or garden plot you wish to place in that space, you’ll
need to clear the way. If the area is a sea of thorny
brush or entirely wooded, you’ll probably want to Tools & Materials ▸
hire an excavator, logger, or someone with heavy-duty
bulldozing equipment to manage the job. But on Pruners Landscape fabric
suburban plots, brush can usually be cleared without Loppers (optional)
the need for major machinery. Bow saw Safety glasses
Dress for protection when taking on a brush- Weed cutter Gloves
clearing job. You never know what mysteries and Nonselective Long sleeves
challenges reside on your property behind the masses herbicide (optional) and pants
of branches and bramble. Wear boots, long pants,
a
B
E C
d
Cutting and removal tools used for brush clearing should be scaled for the job you’re asking them to do. Simple hand tools can
handle much of the work, but for bigger jobs having the right power tools is a tremendous worksaver. Tools shown here include:
electric lopper (cordless) (A); loppers (B); bow saw (C); garden (bow) rake (D); chainsaw (cordless) (E).
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■ How to Clear Brush
1 2
Begin by using a tree pruner to cut woody brush that has a Next, clear out larger plants—brush and trees with a
diameter of less than 1½". Cut the brush and/or small trees as diameter of about 1½" to 3½". Use a bow saw or chain saw
close to the ground as possible, dragging brush out of the way to cut through the growth, and place the debris in a pile. Trees
and into a pile as you clear. larger than 4" diameter should be left to grow, or removed
under the supervision of a professional.
3 4
Use a heavy-duty string trimmer or a swing-blade style Clear the cut debris and dispose of it immediately. Curbside
weed cutter to cut tangled shoots, weeds, and remaining pickup of yardwaste usually requires that sticks or branches
underbrush from the area. be tied up into bundles no more than 3 ft. long. If you plan
to install a hardscape surface, make sure the brush does
not grow back by using a nonselective herbicide to kill off
remaining shoots or laying landscape fabric.
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Creating a Windbreak
W ind saps heat from homes, forces snow into
burdensome drifts, and can damage more
tender plants in a landscape. To protect your
Tools & Materials ▸
outdoor living space, build an aesthetically pleasing Shovel Trees
wall—a “green” wall of tress and shrubs—that will Garden hose Soil amendments
cut the wind and keep those energy bills down. Utility knife (as needed)
Windbreaks are commonly used in rural areas
where sweeping acres of land are a runway for wind
gusts. But even those on small, suburban lots will
benefit from strategically placing plants to block
the wind.
Essentially, windbreaks are plantings or screens
that slow, direct, and block wind from protected
areas. Natural windbreaks are comprised of shrubs,
conifers, and deciduous trees. The keys to a
successful windbreak are: height, width, density,
and orientation. Height and width come with age.
Density depends on the number of rows, type of
foliage, and gaps. Ideally, a windbreak should be
60 to 80 percent dense. (No windbreak is 100
percent dense.) Orientation involves placing rows
of plants at right angles to the wind. A rule of
thumb is to plant a windbreak that is ten times
longer than its greatest height. And keep in mind
that wind changes direction, so you may need a
multiple-leg windbreak.
Windbreak Benefits ▸
Windbreaks deliver multiple benefits to your property.
Energy conservation: reduce energy costs from 20
to 40 percent.
Snow control: single rows of shrubs function as
snow fences.
Privacy: block a roadside view and protect animals
from exposure to passers-by.
Noise control: muffle the sound of traffic if your
pasture or home is near a road.
Aesthetic appeal: improve your landscape and
increase the value of your property.
Erosion control: prevent dust from blowing; roots A stand of fast-growing trees, like these aspens, will create
work against erosion. an effective windbreak for your property just a few years after
saplings are planted.
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■ How to Plant a Windbreak
1 2
Before you pick up a shovel, draw a plan of your Once you decide on the best alignment of trees and
windbreak, taking into consideration the direction of the wind shrubs, stake out reference lines for the rows. For a three-
and location of nearby structures. Windbreaks can be straight row windbreak, the inside row should be at least 75 ft. from
lines of trees or curved formations. They may be several rows buildings or structures, with the outside row 100 to 150 ft.
thick, or just a single row. If you only have room for one row, away. Within this 25 to 75 ft. area, plant rows 16 to 20 ft. apart
choose lush evergreens for the best density. Make a plan. for shrubs and conifers and no closer than 14 ft. for deciduous
trees. Within rows, space trees so their foliage can mature and
eventually improve the density.
3 4
Dig holes for tree root balls to the recommended depth Plant the trees in the formation created in your plan. Follow
(see pages 86 to 87). Your plan should arrange short trees or the tree and shrub planting techniques on pages 86 to 87.
shrubs upwind and taller trees downwind. If your windbreak Here, a row of dwarf fruit trees is being planted in front of a
borders your home, choose attractive plants for the inside row of denser, taller evergreens (Techny Arborvitae).
row and buffer them with evergreens or dense shrubs in the
second row. If you only have room for two rows of plants, be
sure to stagger the specimens so there are no gaps.
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Building Raised Beds
R aised beds are convenient homes for vegetables,
herbs, and flowers. You can establish the perfect
growing environment and maintain healthy soil easily
sunlight. Taller crops thrive when positioned east-
west. A system of beds can face different directions,
depending on what you plant in them. Frames or
in a raised bed. Home gardeners everywhere are borders are optional, but make for a nice, neat bed
raising up their beds because this method of planting that contains soil and helps keep critters out.
is versatile, productive, and convenient. Even better
news: these structures are not too difficult to build.
In raised beds, soil does not suffer compaction
from foot traffic. Also, you can better control soil Tools & Materials ▸
pH, which explains why gardeners report higher
production yields in raised beds: about 0.6 pounds of Spade Roofing nails
vegetables per square foot, or more. Another bonus: Reciprocating saw or Landscape fabric
You can easily water plants in raised beds with soaker power miter saw or EPDM roofing
hoses, which deliver water to soil and roots rather than Drill and drill-driver membrane
spraying leaves and inviting disease. Painting equipment Topsoil
Generally, raised beds are no wider than four feet, Stakes and string Plantings
which allows you to easily reach from one side to the 4 × 4 landscape Exterior paint
middle without climbing in to care for plants. You can timbers or wood-sealer
extend raised beds for as long as you please. Position 6" galvanized nails protectant
beds at north-south orientation for low-growing 10" timber screws
crops so both sides of the bed gain exposure to direct
Raised planting beds are easy to make from landscape lumber. In addition to elevating the plants so they’re easier to reach,
raised beds keep plants and leaves from spreading, limit diseases, and allow you to more easily customize your soil amendments.
A colorful raised bed also provides yard decoration in nongrowing seasons.
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■ How to Build a Raised Planting Bed
1 2 3
Dig with a shovel to remove grass Lay and level the first layer of Place and secure the third layer of
inside a rectangle that was measured timbers in the trench. Once level, set landscape timbers over the second,
and outlined with stakes and string. down the second, staggering the joints. staggering the joints. Drill ½" drainage
Then, dig a trench for the first row Drill holes at each corner and drive nails holes through the bottom row of the
of timbers. through the holes. Or, drive long timber timbers. Line the walls and bottom of
screws to draw the joints together. the raised bed with landscape fabric.
Option: Add a cap of 2 × 6 or 2 × 8
treated lumber for visual appeal and
to create a more comfortable working
surface. Fill the bed with topsoil, peat
and compost, then plant your garden.
Cross-section of a Raised Bed ▸
Staggered end joints
3" layer of mulch
Topsoil
½" drainage holes
Landscape fabric
Raised beds do not need to be contained within frames or borders, but for smaller beds within a defined landscape,
some kind of border improves the appearance and keeps the garden from migrating into the surrounding lawn.
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■ Choosing a Raised Garden Theme
Raised beds offer an opportunity to create specific
garden panting themes. If you envision bouquets of fresh
flowers from spring through fall, a cutting garden with a
variety of annuals and perennials will provide the bounty
required to fill your home with fresh flowers. If you wish
to attract beautiful butterflies to watch, plant a selection
of nectar-producing plants with overlapping blooming
periods. Kitchen-gardeners will want to pick fresh herbs
for cooking—a farm-to-table movement right in your
backyard. Take edibles to a higher level and dedicate a
raised bed for vegetables. You’ll find it is easier to put a
raised bed “to bed” at the end of the season. All you need A square raised garden includes a collection of common herbs.
is some basic tools to trowel up spent plants, and a cover, Even in a raised bed, ornaments like this ceramic birdbath add
such as a tarp, to protect the soil during the winter. character and boost the entertainment factor for bird watchers.
■ Herb Garden
Some herbs are annuals and require planting each year. Keep in mind when choosing herbs, plants are
Others are biennials that live two seasons and bloom the classified as annuals and perennials depending on
second season. Perennials bloom each season. Start out with their zones. A plant rated as “Perennial in Zone 10,”
a bed of healthy soil by tilling and adding soil amendments won’t tolerate temperatures colder than 30 to 40
such as compost or peat moss if necessary. Herbs thrive degrees Fahrenheit. If you live in a cold climate, this
in raised beds, so you’ll have plenty of fragrant bounty to plant functionally becomes an annual because it will
preserve for winter or give to neighbors and friends. die in winter.
Planting an Herb Garden ▸
1. Basil, Ocimum basilicum
2. Broadleaf English thyme, Thymus vulgaris
3. Narrow-leaf French thyme, Thymus vulagaris 5 6 2
‘Narrow Leaf French’ 13
4. Garden sage, Salvia
11
5. Chives, Allium schoenoprasum 4 18
6. Silver-edge thyme, Thymus argentia
9
7. Golden lemon thyme, Thymus citriodorus 14 1
1
8. Greek oregano, Origanum heracleoticum 16
9. Sweet marjoram, Majorana hortensis 1
18 19 18 10
10. Rosemary (potted), Rosmarinus officinalis
11. German chamomile, Matricaria recutita 17 1
12. Parsley, Petroselinum crispum 15 1
13. Bee balm, Monarda didyma
4 18 8
14. Lemon verbena, Aloysia triphylla
15. Pineapple sage, Salvia elegans 11
5 12
16. Mexican marigold mint, Tagetes lucida
17. French tarragon, Artemisia dracunculus 13 3
12 12 7
18. Slate stepping stones
19. Bird bath
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■ Butterfly Garden
Butterflies are nature’s ballet company. The delicate butterflies to visit your garden by planting flowers
creatures flutter about, dance in sunlight, which they rich in this substance. We’ll show you how to create
love, and pose gracefully on petal tips, sipping sweet a habitat so you can lure in butterflies and persuade
drinks of their favorite elixir: nectar. You can encourage them to stay in your yard so you can enjoy the show.
attract Butterflies ▸
The perfect environment to attract butterflies includes these factors: a variety of annuals and perennials, sun spots, shade
areas, puddles, and a feeder. Common plants that butterflies like include:
Aster, Astrum
Black-eyed Susan, Thunbergia alata
Butterfly weed, Asclepias tuberose
Coreopsis, Coreopsis tinctoria
Black Dalea, Dalea frutescens
Daylilies, Hemerocallis
Goldenrod, Solidago odora
Hibiscus, Hibiscus moscheutos
Lavender, Lavandula
Lilac, Syringa vulgaris
Marigold, Calendula officinalis
Nasturtium, Tropaeolum majus
Peony, Paeonia
Petunia, Petunia x hybrida
Redbud, Cercis occidentalis
Rosemary, Rosmarinus
Verbena, Verbena
■ How to Plant a Butterfly Garden
1 2
Provide plants butterflies are attracted to (see list above). Provide a water source for butterflies. Make puddles by
Plant different sizes and flowers with various blooms in an area burying a planter saucer into the plant bed, covering the brim.
with some trees or shrubs to provide cover (shade areas), and Fill the saucer with gravel or sand before filling with water, a
some open spaces that allow light exposure (sun spots). sweet drink, or stale beer. Supplement the puddle with a feeder.
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arroyo
A n arroyo is a dry streambed or watercourse in
an arid climate that directs water runoff on the
rare occasions when there is a downfall. In a home
landscape an arroyo may be used for purely decorative
purposes, with the placement of stones evoking water
where the real thing is scarce. Or it may serve a vital
water-management function, directing storm runoff
away from building foundations to areas where it may
percolate into the ground and irrigate plants, creating
a great spot for a rain garden. This water management
function is becoming more important as municipalities
struggle with an overload of storm sewer water, which
can degrade water quality in rivers and lakes. Some
communities now offer tax incentives to homeowners
who keep water out of the street.
When designing your dry streambed, keep it
natural and practical. Use local stone that’s arranged
as it would be found in a natural stream. Take a field
trip to an area containing natural streams and make
some observations. Note how quickly the water depth
drops at the outside of bends where only larger stones
can withstand the current. By the same token, note
how gradually the water level drops at the inside of
broad bends where water movement is slow. Place
smaller river-rock gravel here, as it would accumulate
in a natural stream.
Large heavy stones with flat tops may serve as
step stones, allowing paths to cross or even follow dry
stream beds.
The most important design standard with dry An arroyo is a drainage swale lined with rocks that directs
streambeds is to avoid regularity. Stones are never runoff water from a point of origin, such as a gutter downspout,
to a destination, such as a sewer drain or a rain garden.
spaced evenly in nature and nor should they be in
your arroyo. If you dig a bed with consistent width, it
will look like a canal or a drainage ditch, not a stream.
And consider other yard elements and furnishings. For Important: Contact your local waste management
example, an arroyo presents a nice opportunity to add bureau before routing water toward a storm sewer; this
a landscape bridge or two to your yard. may be illegal.
Tools & Materials ▸
Landscape paint Wheelbarrow 8"-thick steppers Native grasses or other
Carpenter’s level Landscape fabric 6 to 18" dia. perennials for banks
Spades 6-mil black plastic river-rock boulders Eye protection
Garden rake Mulch ¾ to 2" river rock Work gloves
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■ How to Build an Arroyo
1
Rain garden. May be
lined with stone for
sparse plantings
Flat steppers need
to be at least 6" tall.
River rock gravel on
inside of bend where
water slows
dry stream about Stream widens to
3 ft. wide 5 ft at curve
Gutter
Big boulders or
angular ledge
Create a plan for the arroyo. The best designs have a very natural shape and a rock distribution strategy that mimics the look of
a stream. Arrange a series of flat steppers at some point to create a bridge.
2 3
Lay out the dry stream bed, following the native Excavate the soil to a depth of at least 12" (30 cm) in the
topography of your yard as much as possible. Mark the borders arroyo area. Use the soil you dig up to embellish or repair
and then step back and review it from several perspectives. your yard.
(continued)
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4 5 6
Widen the arroyo in selected areas to Install an underlayment of Set larger boulders at outside
add interest. Rake and smooth out the landscape fabric over the entire dry bends in the arroyo. Imagine that there
soil in the project area. streambed. Keep the fabric loose so is a current to help you visualize where
you have room to manipulate it later if the individual stones could naturally
the need arises. end up.
7
Place flagstone steppers or boulders with relatively flat surfaces in a stepping-stone pattern to make a pathway across the
arroyo (left photo). Alternately, create a “bridge” in an area where you’re likely to be walking (right photo).
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8
Add more stones, including steppers and medium-size landscape boulders. Use smaller aggregate to create the stream bed,
filling in and around, but not covering, the larger rocks.
9 What is a
Rain Garden? ▸
A rain garden is simply a
shallow, wide depression at
least ten feet away from a
basement foundation that
collects storm water runoff.
Rain gardens are planted
with native flood-tolerant
plants and typically hold
water for only hours after
rainfall. Check your local
garden center or Extension
Service to find details about
creating rain gardens in
Dress up your new arroyo by planting native grasses and perennials around your area.
its banks.
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Swales
I f your yard is beginning to look like a boggy mess
because of low-lying areas that collect water run-off, a
drainage swale is just the solution to control wet zones.
If you are building a swale between your house and
the property next door, talk to your neighbor about the
project beforehand. If drainage is a problem for them
Swales work much like rain gardens: Both are designed as well, they might be willing to split the cost or team
to direct water run-off to an area of capture so water up to build the swale. If the thought of labor-intensive
can slowly drain back into the soil or be redirected to digging will send you to the phone book to call a
an appropriate outlet, such as a storm water sewer. The professional—go ahead. Or, simply rent a trencher or
difference is, a swale is basically a shallow, vegetated backhoe for the day to get the job done faster. You’ll
collection trench and a rain garden requires establishing still need a shovel for leveling and finishing the trench.
an entire drainage environment. Depending on the run- Note: Before beginning, have your public utility
off severity, a simple swale might be all you’ll need to flag any electrical, gas or plumbing lines in or near the
keep your lawn from turning into swampland. project area.
Just because a swale is a practical ditch doesn’t
mean it can’t enhance the landscape’s overall look.
Resist the urge to dig a trench, fill with sod, and leave
it at that. Think of your swale as a creek environment Tools & Materials ▸
without the rushing water. What type of surroundings
would you expect along a riverbed? Natural stone Hammer or maul Shovel
gives a swale area a rustic appeal. Plant grasses over Wheelbarrow Work gloves
the swale trench and treat the berm as a plant bed Spade Stakes
for perennials or native grasses. These finishing Spading fork Landscape fabric
touches will ensure the swale is a beauty mark on your Sod cutter (optional) Coarse gravel
landscape and not an eyesore.
As you plan the swale, also keep in mind that
the swale should be positioned slightly uphill from
your drainage zone. A swale cannot usually run in an EcoTip ▸
unbroken line because it must be dug on contour and
have a level bottom so water will pool evenly and seep A swale can double as a water filter if you install plants
deep into the bed. You may need to build a system of with well-established root systems along the entrance
swales—two or three that run a horizontal line but are area to “clean” water as it runs off into the trench.
placed at slightly different positions on the slope. The Grasses planted in the swale dip will clean run-off
swale we’ll build in this project is a single trench that’s water (so long as you avoid using chemical lawn care
six inches deep. A swale should be half as deep as it is products on this land) before it reaches storm sewers.
wide, so this swale will be one foot wide.
Improve drainage in a large low-lying
area by creating a shallow ditch, called
a drainage swale, to carry runoff water
away. If your region receives frequent
Runoff direction heavy rainfalls or if you have dense soil
that drains poorly, you may need to lay a
perforated drainpipe and a bed of gravel
under the swale to make it more effective
(see next page).
drainage swale
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■ Swale Options
Splash block
Coarse gravel
Perforated drain pipe
For severe drainage problems, dig a 1-ft. deep swale angled slightly downward to the outlet point. Line the swale with
landscape fabric. Spread a 2"-layer of coarse gravel in the bottom of the swale. Then lay perforated drainpipe over the gravel. Cover
the pipe with a 5"-layer of gravel and wrap the landscape fabric over the top of it. Cover the swale with soil and fresh sod. Set a
splash block at the outlet to distribute the runoff and prevent erosion.
Coarse Smooth
Gravel comes in two forms: coarse and smooth. When buying gravel for shaping projects, such as drainage swales, select
coarse gravel. Coarse gravel clings to the sides of the trench, creating an even drainage layer. Smooth gravel is typically used as a
decorative ground cover. When used for shaping projects, it tends to slide toward the middle of the trench.
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■ How to Create a Drainage Swale
1
Use stakes to mark a swale route that directs water away from the problem area toward a run-off zone. Place stakes slightly
uphill from the drainage area.
2 3
Remove soil from the marked zone using a shovel. If you Shape the trench so it slopes gradually downward toward
must remove grass before digging, consider cutting grass the outlet, and smooth the sides.
pieces carefully and setting them aside so you can use the turf
as sod squares to finish the trench. You can rent or buy a sod
cutter to improve your chances of getting reusable cuttings.
Otherwise, pile dirt on one side of the trench for a berm.
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4 5
Level the trench by laying a 2 × 4 board with a carpenter’s Lay sod in the trench to complete the swale. Compress the
level on the foundation. Distribute soil so the base is level, sod and water the area thoroughly to check drainage.
moving the board to different areas of the trench to check for
levelness. Crack the bottom of the swale with a spading fork
to aid in percolation (optional).
■ Option: Compact Skidloader
Use the digging attachment on the compact skidloader Use a grading attachment on the skidloader to level and
to move earth. This could mean shearing off the top of move earth. Swales should have very shallow sides and
a small hill that creates a drainage issue, or excavating low slopes.
to create a natural drainage pattern. Unless you have
experience operating utility vehicles, hire a contractor to
do this job.
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Landscape Bed & Patio Edging
L andscape beds dress up a plain, green yard and
provide supple ground for growing perennials,
annuals, vegetables, or whatever greenscape you
walkway, or patio area. You can trim a bed with brick,
natural stone, timber, or even neat-and-clean black
plastic edging. Edging serves the practical purpose
choose to plant. Use your imagination! Beds can of containment, keeping surface material in place
be dug to create borders in an outdoor living room, so it doesn’t drift off into the yard. Also, in patio and
or they may be positioned as “islands” in a sea of walkway applications edging can strengthen a curb.
green back yard. The shape, size, and location of Aesthetically speaking, it creates a visual border and
a landscape bed is really up to you. Then just add provides an opportunity to incorporate hardscape into
edging to add a polished look to any landscape bed, a landscape design.
■ Creating Landscape Beds
Planting areas should occupy 40 to 50 percent of your
total open yard area, so don’t skimp. Think of it this Tools & Materials ▸
way: More beds means less mowing. Of course, you’ll
add time to your gardening duties, but if you choose Landscape fabric Plants
low-maintenance shrubs and perennials that blossom (optional) Hose
like clockwork each season, the time you spend doting Soil amendments Spade
over landscape beds won’t steal from other outdoor Mulch Shovel
recreation—like using your outdoor kitchen.
Before you break ground, survey your property and
map out where you will place landscape beds. Don’t
get boxed into linear designs. Experiment with kidney-
shaped beds, and beds that seem to flow like a creek
with curved edges. Build in border beds that separate
outdoor living spaces, such as a patio, from the rest of
the yard. Beds also provide privacy when placed along
a property line and planted with screening varieties,
such as evergreens. (Landscape beds aren’t just for
flowers, after all.)
Once you decide on bed location and shape,
check the soil quality of the area by conducting
a soil test. That way you can add the correct soil
amendments to be sure you’re giving plants the
best foundation for growth. Most soil will require
amending, and you can do so with organic substances,
including: sphagnum peat, wood chips, grass clippings
(if you do not use lawn chemicals), straw, or compost.
Remember, amendments are mixed into the soil and
mulch is placed on the soil, after planting.
In the project shown here, you’ll learn how to create
a landscape bed with curved edges by using a garden
hose to outline the bed shape before you break ground.
This bed features plastic edging, which is installed before
amending soil. You can choose any number of edging
materials (see pages 68 to 73) for this project. As always, Freeform planting beds within a landscaped yard provide
before you dig, call your local utilities hotline first. borders, definition, and visual relief.
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■ How to Install a Landscape Bed
1 2
Use a garden hose to outline the planned garden bed area. Dig a trench around the perimeter of the bed using a
Remove the ground cover inside the area with a spade. spade. Place plastic lawn edging into the trench and secure it
by driving edging stakes into the bottom lip.
3 4
Till amendments into the soil with a spade and shovel. Test Install plant material. Apply a 2" to 3" layer of mulch over
the design and layout of the plants. Install landscape fabric the entire surface. Leave 1 to 2" of clearance for tree trunks
over the entire area if desired to inhibit weed growth. and woody ornamentals to prevent insects and pests from
attacking them.
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■ Rigid Paver Edging
Choose heavy-duty edging that’s strong enough
to contain your surface materials. If your patio Tools & Materials ▸
or walkway has curves, buy plenty of notched, or
flexible, edging for the curves. Also, buy 12-inch-long Maul Heavy-duty
galvanized spikes: one for every 12 inches of edging Snips or saw (for plastic edging
plus extra for curves. cutting edging) 12" galvanized spikes
Invisible Edging ▸
Invisible edging is so named
for its low-profile edge that Brick pavers
stops about halfway up the
side edges of pavers. The
exposed portion of the edging
is easily concealed under soil Rigid plastic edging
and sod or groundcover.
Sand
Rigid plastic edging installs
easily and works well for both Landscape fabric
curved and straight walkways Compactable gravel subbase
made from paving stones or
brick pavers set in sand.
■ How to Install Rigid Paver Edging
1 2
Set the edging on top of a compacted gravel base covered Cover the outside of the edging with soil and/or sod after
with landscape fabric. Using your layout strings as guides, the paving is complete. Tip: On two or more sides of the patio
secure the edging with spikes driven every 12" (or as or path, you can spike the edging minimally, in case you have
recommended by the manufacturer). Along curves, spike the to make adjustments during the paving. Anchor the edging
edging at every tab, or as recommended. completely after the paving is done.
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■ Freeform Paver Edging Tools & Materials ▸
Brick edging can be laid in several different
configurations (see below): on-end with its edge Flat shovel Garden spade
perpendicular to the paved surface (“soldiers”); on its Rubber mallet Work gloves
long edges; or laid flat, either parallel or perpendicular 2 × 4 (about 12" long) Gravel
to the paving. For mortared surfaces, brick can also Bricks Landscape fabric
be mortared to the edge of a concrete slab for a Hand tamper Eye protection
decorative finish (see pages 70 to 73 and 160 to 163).
Brick Edging Configurations ▸
Brick soldier edging Brick set on long edges Brick set on faces, perpendicular or parallel to the
patio surface
■ How to Install Brick Paver Edging
1 2
Excavate the edge of the patio or walkway site using Set the edging bricks into the trench after installing the
a flat shovel to create a clean, vertical edge. The edge of gravel subbase and landscape fabric. If applicable, use your
the soil (and sod) will support the outsides of the bricks. For layout strings to keep the bricks in line and to check for the
edging with bricks set on-end, dig a narrow trench along the proper height. Backfill behind the bricks with soil and tamp
perimeter of the site, setting the depth so the tops of the well as you secure the bricks in place. Install the patio surface
edging bricks will be flush with the paving surface (or just material. Tap the tops of the bricks with a rubber mallet and a
above the surface for loose materials). short 2 × 4 to level them with one another (inset).
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■ Concrete Curb Edging
Poured concrete edging is perfect for curves and
custom shapes, especially when you want a continuous
border at a consistent height. Keeping the edging low to
the ground (about one inch above grade) makes it work
well as a mowing strip, in addition to a patio or walkway
border. Use fiber-reinforced concrete mix, and cut
control joints into the edging to help control cracking.
Tools & Materials ▸
Rope or garden hose Concrete edger
Excavation tools 1 × 1 wood stakes
Mason’s string ¼" hardboard
Hand tamp 1" wood screws
Maul Fiber-reinforced
Circular saw concrete
Drill Acrylic
Concrete concrete sealer
mixing tools Eye and
Margin trowel ear protection Concrete edging draws a sleek, smooth line between
Wood concrete float Work gloves surfaces in your yard and is especially effective for curving
paths and walkways.
■ How to Install Concrete Curb Edging
1 2 3
Lay out the contours of the edging Dig a trench between the layout lines Stake along the edges of the trench,
using a rope or garden hose. For straight 8" wide (or 3" wider than the finished using 1 × 1 × 12" wood stakes. Drive a
runs, use stakes and mason’s string to curb width) at a depth that allows for a stake every 18" along each side edge.
mark the layout. Make the curb at least 4"-thick (minimum) curb at the desired
5" wide. height above grade. Compact the soil to
form a flat, solid base.
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4 5
Build the form sides by fastening 4"-wide strips of ¼" Add spacers inside the form to maintain a consistent width.
hardboard to the insides of the stakes using 1" wood screws. Cut the spacers from 1 × 1 to fit snugly inside the form. Set the
Bend the strips to follow the desired contours. spacers along the bottom edges of the form at 3-ft. intervals.
6 7
Fill the form with concrete mixed to a firm, workable Tool the concrete: once the bleed water disappears (see page
consistency. Use a margin trowel to spread and consolidate 90), smooth the surface with a wood float. Using a margin trowel,
the concrete. cut 1"-deep control joints across the width of the curb at 3-ft.
intervals. Tool the side edges of the curb with an edger. Allow
to cure. Seal the concrete, as directed, with an acrylic concrete
sealer, and let it cure for 3 to 5 days before removing the form.
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■ Landscape Timber Edging
Pressure-treated landscape or cedar timbers make
attractive, durable edging that’s easy to install. Square-
edged timbers are best for geometric pavers like brick
and cut stone, while loose materials and natural
flagstone look best with rounded or squared timbers.
Choose the size of timber depending on how bold you
want the border to look.
Tools & Materials ▸
Excavation tools Landscape fabric
Plate compactor Sand (optional)
(available for rent) Landscape timbers
Maul (pressure-treated
Reciprocating saw or rot-resistant
with wood-cutting species only)
and metal-cutting ½"-diameter
blades, circular (#4) rebar
saw, or handsaw Eye and
Drill and ½" bit ear protection Lumber or timber edging can be used with any patio
Compacted gravel surface material. Here, this lumber edging is not only
decorative, it also holds all of the loose material in place.
■ How to Install Timber Edging
1 2
During the site excavation, dig a perimeter trench for the Drill 1⁄2" holes through each timber, close to the ends and
timbers so they will install flush with the top of the patio or every 24" in between. Cut a length of 1⁄2"-diameter (#4) rebar at
walkway surface (or just above the surface for loose material). 24" for each hole using a reciprocating saw and metal-cutting
Add the compacted gravel base, as required, including a 2 to 4" blade. Set the timbers in the trench and make sure they lie
layer in the perimeter trench. Cut timbers to the desired length flat. Use your layout strings as guides for leveling and setting
using a reciprocating saw with a long wood-cutting blade, a the height of the timbers. Anchor the timbers with the rebar,
circular saw, or a handsaw. driving the bar flush with the wood surface.
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■ Lumber Edging
Dimension lumber makes for an inexpensive edging
material and a less-massive alternative to landscape
Flagstone
timbers; 2 × 4 or 2 × 6 lumber works well for most Edging board
patios and walkways. Use only pressure-treated
lumber rated for ground contact or all-heart redwood
or cedar boards to prevent rot. For the stakes, use
pressure-treated lumber, since they will be buried Landscape fabric
anyway and appearance is not a concern.
Tools & Materials ▸
Sand
Excavation tools Compacted gravel
Circular saw Landscape fabric
Compactable gravel Sand
Drill 2½" galvanized Compactable gravel subbase
2× lumber for edging deck screws
2 × 4 lumber for stakes Eye and ear
Wood preservative protection Wood edging is a popular choice for simple flagstone or
paver walkways and for patios with a casual look.
■ How to Install Lumber Edging
1 2
Excavate the patio site, and dig a perimeter trench for Fasten the boards to the stakes with pairs of 21⁄2" deck
the boards so they will install flush with the top of the patio screws. Where boards meet at corners and butt joints, fasten
surface (or just above the surface for loose material). Add the them together with screws. Use your layout strings as guides
gravel base, as required, including a 2 to 4" layer of gravel in for leveling and setting the height of the edging. Backfill behind
the trench. Cut the edging boards to length, and seal the ends the edging to support the boards and hide the stakes.
with wood preservative. Cut 2 × 4 stakes about 16" long. Set
the edging boards in the trench and drive a stake close to the
ends of each board and every 24" in between.
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Low-voltage Landscape Lighting
T hanks to the many inexpensive and easy-to-install
lighting kits and fixtures available, outdoor lighting
has become a standard feature in today’s home
spaces a second life with a completely different feel
from the daytime setting.
Standard low-voltage lighting systems are
landscapes. A good lighting plan not only makes your commonly available in complete kits that include a
patio and walkways more useful at night, it gives these low-voltage transformer, low-voltage cable, and several
light fixtures, each with a wire lead that links to the
main cable with a special connector. A basic landscape
kit typically has three or more fixtures for standard
in-ground installation. If you’d like to add specialty
patio fixtures, such as step (or “brick”) lights, pole-
and wall-mount fixtures, and task lights for outdoor
cooking, make sure your system is compatible with a
full range of accessory lights. In addition to standard
wired systems, you can find a wide variety of solar-
powered fixtures that offer free operation and the
easiest possible installation.
Here are some other factors to consider when
choosing a standard low-voltage lighting system:
• Transformer power—For best performance, the
total wattage of the light fixtures should be at least
one-third of the transformer’s wattage rating but
should not exceed the wattage rating. If necessary,
use two systems to avoid overloading a single
system with too many fixtures.
• Transformer controls—Consider timers and
photosensitive switches for automatic operation.
• Cable gauge size—12-gauge UF cable is
recommended to reduce voltage drop in long
cable runs.
• Fixture and bulb brightness—Brightness is
often rated in foot-candles: one foot-candle is
equivalent to the brightness of a 12-inch square
area lit by a candle held 12 inches away. Use the
brightness rating to guide the fixture layout.
Tools & Materials ▸
Drill and bits PVC pipe
Screwdrivers Hammer
Trenching spade Work gloves
As with indoor light fixtures, landscape lights can be just Low-voltage lighting kit
as beautiful as they are illuminating. Consider the look (and Paint stir-stick
visibility) of fixtures in the daylight, in addition to their lighting
characteristics at night.
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Effective Lighting ▸
Here are some general design guidelines to keep in mind decorative and made to be visible; others are easy to
when planning your lighting scheme: hide under low plantings or tuck away in the shadows.
Keep it subtle. With the exception of surprise- Illuminate appropriately: Patios call for
oriented security lights (floodlights, motion detectors), atmospheric lighting for nighttime use—so party guests
outdoor lighting should be mellow and subdued—an can see one another (at least in dim light) and diners can
intermingling of soft light and shadows, not a battle see their food during evening meals. Provide a soft wash
against the darkness. of background light with sconces mounted to the house
Mix it up. The best lighting plans employ a wall or with post-fixtures with globes. For entertaining, a
combination of fixtures and levels of illumination. sprinkling of small accent lights along the patio’s borders
Use brighter or more direct lights to highlight a few can create enough light for socializing while maintaining
landscape features or patio areas. Otherwise, stick to subtle ambiance.
low, unobtrusive lighting. Variation helps emphasize Consider safety: Main traffic routes on and off
key elements. a patio need lighting for safe and convenient travel.
Illuminate surfaces, not people. Orient fixtures On patios, include lights at all changes in floor height
downward to light up paths and patio surfaces or upward and on any obstructions not clearly visible at night.
for indirect background lighting. As a general rule, naked Recessed lights on step risers provide a small amount
bulbs should be hidden from view. Never direct beams of of light precisely where it’s needed. Paths are best
light into a viewer’s line of sight, which creates a harsh lit with low-voltage pole fixtures; space fixtures 8 to
glare at night. 10 ft. apart for localized pools of light, or put them
Use the right fixture for the job. There’s an closer together to overlap their washes of light in a
outdoor light for virtually every application. Some are “spread” pattern.
F
a
C G
I
B d
E
H J K
Typical low-voltage outdoor lighting systems consist of: lens cap (A), lens cap posts (B), upper reflector (C),
lens (D), base/stake/cable connector assembly (contains lower reflector) (E), low-voltage cable (F), lens hood (G), 7-watt
12-volt bulbs (H), cable connector caps (I), control box containing transformer and timer (J), and light sensor (K).
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■ How to Install Low-Voltage Patio Lighting
1 2
Determine where you will install the transformer(s)— Drill a hole through the wall or rim joist for the low-
either in the garage, on an exterior house wall, or on an voltage cable and any sensors to pass through (inset). If a
outdoor post buried in the ground with concrete. If installing circuit begins in a high-traffic area, it’s a good idea to protect
the transformer in the garage, mount it on a wall within 24" the cable by running it through a short piece of PVC pipe or
of a GFCI receptacle and at least 12" above the floor. See conduit and then into the shallow trench (see step 9).
variation (below) for alternative installations.
Planning Tip ▸
Make a diagram of your yard and mark the location
of new fixtures. Note the wattages of the fixtures and
use the diagram to select a transformer and plan
the circuits.
Variation: To install the transformer(s) to an outdoor wall or
post, mount the unit within 24" of an outdoor GFCI receptacle
and at least 12" above the ground. If the receptacle is exposed,
install an “in-use” receptacle cover for added protection
from the elements. Do not use an extension cord to connect
the transformer.
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3 4
Attach the end of the low-voltage wire to the terminals Transformers usually have a simple mechanism that
on the transformer. Make sure that both strands of wire are allows you to set times for the lights to come on and go off
held tightly by their terminal screws. automatically. Set these times before hanging the transformer.
5 6
Many low-voltage light fixtures are modular, consisting Take apart the connector box and insert the ends of
of a spiked base, a riser tube and a lamp. On these units, feed the fixture wire and the low voltage landscape cable into
the wires and the wire connector from the light section down it. Puncture the wire ends with the connector box leads.
through the riser tube and into the base. Reassemble the connector box. Feed the wire connector back
into the light base and attach it according to directions that
came with the lamp. In this model, all that was required was
pushing the connector into a locking slot in the base.
(continued)
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7 8
Install the low-voltage light bulb. Wrap the bulb with cloth After the bulb is installed, assemble the fixture parts that
to keep oil from your fingers off the glass. cover it, including the lens cap and reflector.
9 10
Lay out the lights, with the wires attached, in the pattern Gently force the cable into the slot formed by the spade;
you have chosen. Then cut the sod between fixtures with a don’t tear the wire insulation. A paint stick (or a cedar shingle)
spade. Push the blade about 5" deep and pry open a seam by is a good tool for this job. Push the wire to the bottom of
rocking the blade back and forth. the slot.
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11 12
Once the lamp is stabilized, tuck any extra wire into the Firmly push the light into the slot in the sod. If the lamp
slot using the paint stick. If you have a lot of extra wire, you can doesn’t seat properly, pull it out and cut another slot at a right
fold it and push the excess to the bottom of the slot. No part of angle to the first and try again.
the wire should be exposed when you are done with the job.
Choosing Solar Landscape Lights ▸
Outdoor solar-powered lighting offers two distinct
advantages over conventional low-voltage systems:
easy, flexible installation and free power. Installing most
landscape and patio light fixtures is as simple as staking
the light into the ground or mounting it to a wall or post.
Many fixtures, including path and accent lights, have a
built-in solar panel, so the fixture can go anywhere it will
be exposed to direct sunlight during the day. Brighter
fixtures, like spot and security lights, often include a
separate solar panel with a thin wire that delivers power
to the light. The panel is mounted and positioned for
maximum sun exposure, while the light fixture can be
placed directly where it’s needed. Most solar fixtures
come with a photosensitive switch that automatically
turns the light on at dusk and off at sunrise.
The main disadvantage of solar lighting is reliability.
Lower quality fixtures and some high-power lights (such
as spot lights) offer running times that won’t last through
Solar landscape lights are available in sets and
the night. To minimize this problem, choose high-quality
individual fixtures. You can pick and choose fixtures based
fixtures with advanced solar cells (better cells collect on lighting needs as well as the fixtures’ appearance and
more power in low-light weather than cheaper cells) and brightness. Best of all, you can easily reposition lights for
efficient LED bulbs. desired effects throughout the seasons.
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Landscaping
with Plants
P lants are the eye-candy of a landscape, adding
pops of color, ranges of texture, and intoxicating
fragrances. This chapter contains a garden for every
taste and the instructions you need to build them. If
you live in an arid region or are increasingly concerned
about water consumption, consider taking on our
Xeriscape project that uses low-water use plants and
hardscape. The Rain Garden project is an ecologically
sound way of landscaping your yard. Meanwhile, we
provide you with important nuts-and-bolts information
that you’ll use year-round, such as how to prune trees
and properly mulch beds.
In this chapter:
• Gallery
• Planting Trees & Shrubs
• Tree Removal
• Pruning Trees & Shrubs
• Green Groundcover
• Mulching Beds
• Rain Garden
• Xeriscape
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Gallery
Perennial plants tend to find their own order if you let them. As a general rule, allowing them to spread is a good strategy as
long as they stay more or less within the confines you’ve created for them.
Dot your natural landscape with flowering perennials that are selected to bloom in succession throughout the growing season.
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Plant ornamental grasses to provide rich colors and textures in any season.
Use garden pathways to direct foot traffic past your favorite landscape features, such as this reclined statue or the landscape
bridge in the background.
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Hedgerows and shrubberies define borders within your landscape. A dense row of hedges also adds some visual weight to a
plain walkway and helps it succeed as a landscape feature.
Borders, perimeters and entrypoint markers require special Use pots, window boxes and other planters to spruce up your
attention so they stand out within your landscaped yard. yard and even add some whimsy.
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A hint of a traditional formal garden is all it takes to make your ordinary landscape feel more studied and important. The island of
greenery and Grecian-urn styled planter make a lovely highlight in a field of brick pavers.
Choose plants with interesting profiles and strong vertical presence to stand out in any landscape. Back-lighting from the front
porch highlights the spiky shapes in this arid desertscape.
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Planting Trees & Shrubs
T rees and shrubs are structural elements that
provide many benefits to any property. Aside from
adding structural interest to a landscape, they work
to establish. When you choose a tree or shrub, protect
the branches, foliage, and roots from wind and sun
damage during transport. When loading and unloading,
hard to provide shade, block wind, and form walls lift by the container or root ball, not the trunk. You may
and ceilings of outdoor living areas. Whether your decide to pay a nursery to deliver specimens if they are
landscape is a blank canvas or you plan to add trees too large for you to manage, or if you are concerned
and shrubs to enhance what’s already there, you’ll about damaging them en route to your property.
want to take great care when selecting what type of
tree you plant, and how you plant it.
A substantially sized tree might be your greatest
investment in plant stock, which is more reason to be Tools & Materials ▸
sure you give that tree a healthy start by planting it
correctly. Timing and transportation are the first issues Shovel Long stake
you’ll consider. The best time to plant is in spring or Garden hose Tree
fall, when the soil is usually at maximum moistness Utility knife Peat moss
and the temperature is moderate enough to allow roots
Trees and shrubs are packaged three different ways for sale: with a bare root, container-grown, and balled-and-burlapped.
Bare root specimens (left) are the most wallet-friendly, but you must plant them during the dormant season, before growing begins.
Container-grown plants (center) are smaller and take years to achieve maturity, but you can plant them any time—preferably
during spring or fall. Balled-and-burlapped specimens (right) are mature and immediately fill out a landscape. They are also the
most expensive.
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■ How to Plant a Balled-and-Burlapped Tree
1 2
Use a garden hose to mark the outline for a hole that is at Amend some of the removed soil with hydrated peat
least two or three times the diameter of the root ball. If you moss and return the mixture to build up the sides of the hole,
are planting trees with shallow, spreading roots (such as most creating a medium that is easy for surface roots to establish
evergreens) rather than a deep taproot, make the hole wider. in. If necessary (meaning, you dug too deep) add and compact
Dig no deeper than the height of the rootball. soil at the bottom of the hole so the top of the rootball will be
slightly above grade when placed.
3 4
Place the tree in the hole so the top of root ball is slightly Backfill amended soil around the rootball until the soil
above grade and the branches are oriented in a pleasing mixture crowns the hole slightly. Compress the soil lightly
manner. Cut back the twine and burlap from around the with your hands. Create a shallow well around the edge of the
trunk and let it fall back into the hole. Burlap may be left in fresh soil to help prevent water from running off. Water deeply
the hole—it will degrade quickly. Non-degradable rootball initially and continue watering very frequently for several
wrappings should be removed. weeks. Staking the tree is wise, but make sure the stake is not
damaging the roots.
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Tree Removal
R emoving trees is often a necessary part of shaping
a landscape. Diseased or dead trees need to
be removed before they become a nuisance and to
maintain the appearance of your landscape. Or, you
may simply need to clear the area for any of a variety
of reasons, including making a construction site,
allowing sunshine to a planting bed, or opening up
a sightline.
If you need to remove a mature tree from your
yard, the best option is to have a licensed tree
contractor cut it down and remove the debris. If
you are ambitious and careful, small trees with a
trunk diameter of less than six inches can present
an opportunity for DIY treecutting. The first step in
removing a tree is determining where you want it to
fall. This area is called the felling path; you’ll also need Da
ng
pa lling
to plan for two retreat paths. Retreat paths allow you er
zo
th
to avoid a tree falling in the wrong direction. To guide ne
Fe
the tree along a felling path, a series of cuts are made ger
Dan e
o n
in the trunk. The first cut, called a notch, is made by z
removing a triangle-shaped section on the side of the at
e tre
R th
tree facing the felling path. A felling cut is then made
Ret h
ne r
pa
pat
zo nge
on the opposite side, forming a wide hinge that guides
re
Da
at
the fall of the tree.
Always follow manufacturer’s safety precautions
when operating a chainsaw. The following sequence
outlines the steps professionals use to fell a tree and
cut it into sections. Always wear protective clothing,
including gloves, hardhat, safety glasses, and hearing
protection when felling or trimming trees. And make
certain no children or pets are in the area.
Tools & Materials ▸ Hinge
Chainsaw Ear protection Notch
Hard hat Wedge
Safety glasses Hand maul
Felling cut
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■ How to Fell a Tree
1 2 3
Remove limbs below head level. Start Use a chain saw to make a notch cut Drive a wedge into the felling cut.
at the bottom of the branch, making a one-third of the way through the tree, Push the tree toward the felling path
shallow up-cut. Then cut down from the approximately at waist level. Do not to start its fall, and move into a retreat
top until the branch falls. Note: Hire a cut to the center of the trunk. Make a path to avoid possible injury.
tree service to cut down and remove straight felling cut about 2" above the
trees with a trunk diameter of more base of the notch cut, on the opposite
than 6”. side of the trunk. Leave a 3"-thick
“hinge” at the center.
4 5
Standing on the opposite side of the trunk from the To cut the trunk into sections, cut down two-thirds of the
branch, remove each branch by cutting from the top of way and roll the trunk over. Finish the cut from the top, cutting
the saw, until the branch separates from the tree. Adopt a down until the section breaks away.
balanced stance, grasp the handles firmly with both hands, and
be cautious with the saw.
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Pruning Trees & Shrubs
P runing trees and shrubs can inspire new growth
and prolong the life of the plant. It may surprise
you that the entire plant benefits when you remove
will have time to heal successfully before the flowering
and growing season. The best time to perform heavy
pruning/trimming on most woody plants, flower trees,
select portions. Regular pruning also discourages and shrubs is during late winter and early spring.
disease and improves the plant’s overall appearance.
Timing and technique when pruning will, quite
literally, mold the future of the shrub or tree. The trick
to properly pruning trees and shrubs is to remember
that less is more. Instances that warrant pruning
include: pinching off the ends of plants (to maintain
a bushy look); restoring an ornamental’s shape with
clean-up cuts; and removing rubbing tree branches,
where abrasion is an open wound for disease to enter.
Light, corrective pruning means removing less
than 10 percent of the tree or shrub canopy. This can
be performed at any time during the year. However,
when making more severe cuts, such as heading back,
thinning, or rejuvenating, prune when plants are under Regular pruning of trees and shrubs not only keeps the
the least amount of stress. That way, trees and shrubs plants looking neat and tidy, it makes them healthier.
Shrub Pruning ▸
Use a combination of these pruning methods to control bud should be located on the side of the branch that faces
shrub growth. the direction you want it to grow. For example, an inward-
Pinching: The terminal facing bud will develop into a branch that reaches into the
of the shoot is the tip of the canopy. If you allow two opposite-facing buds to grow, the
stem (green portion before result is a weak, Y-shaped branch.
it becomes woody). When Thinning: This involves cutting branches off the
you remove the terminal, parent stem, so target the oldest, tallest stems first. (You’ll
the bud is lost allowing need to reach into the shrub canopy to accomplish this
lateral buds to grow. successfully.) Prune branches that are one-third the
Pinching reduces the length diameter of the parent stem. To visualize where to cut,
of a shoot and promotes imagine the Y junction, where a lateral branch meets the
side (filler) growth. Pinch off parent stem. Practice moderation when thinning.
especially long shoots from inside the shrub canopy. Rejuvenating: Remove the oldest branches by
Heading back: leaving little but a stub near the ground. Young branches
Increase the density of a can also be cut back, as well as thin stems.
shrub by cutting terminal Shearing: Swipe a hedge trimmer over the top of a
shoots back to a healthy shrub to remove the terminal of most shoots; this will give
branch or bud. Cut inward you a formal topiary look. Shear throughout the summer
or outward growing shoots to maintain the shape. Keep in mind, shearing is more
to manipulate the shape. aesthetic than beneficial: it forces growth on the exterior
Choose your growth of the plant, which blocks light and oxygen from the
direction, then remove center. You’re left with a shell of a shrub—leaves on the
buds accordingly. The top outside, naked branches on the inside.
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Hedge Trimmers ▸ Tree Pruning ▸
An electric or gas-powered hedge trimmer isn’t Always prune tree branches by cutting just outside
just easier to use, it offers much greater control the tree collar. You’ll notice a circular closure around
than pruning shears for shaping hedges during the the wound as the tree begins to heal.
pruning process. Thinning: These cuts reduce the tree canopy
and allow wind to pass through branches. Thinning is
a safety measure if you are concerned that a storm
will damage a tree and surrounding property. Remove
dead, broken, weak, and diseased branches. Cut
them back to their point of origin or to laterals that
are at least one-third the diameter of the branch you
are removing. Be sure to remove less than 25 percent
of foliage at one time. It’s best to thin trees in the
winter, when they are dormant.
Heading back: Reduce the size of your tree
this way by cutting back lateral branches and then
heating tips of laterals.
Reduction cut: Most common in younger
trees, these cuts remove an offshoot branch back to
a thicker branch attached to the tree trunk. Pictured
below is a cut to remove a perpendicular branch.
■ How to Prune a Tree
1 2 3
Start by undercutting from beneath Finish the cut from above. This Trim the stub from the limb so it’s
the limb with your bow saw or keeps the bark from tearing when the flush with the branch collar.
chain saw. limb breaks loose.
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Green Groundcover
G roundcover is a practical solution for areas where
grass won’t grow, such as on slopes or in shady
beds. It also adds texture and interest to a landscape and
Dealing with Invasive Ivy ▸
Invasive ivy is like a rash that spreads—if you choose the
serves as a transition between planting areas. Ground
wrong variety. The American Ivy Society selects an Ivy
cover refers to any vegetation that provides a dense,
of the Year annually, and each cultivar is easy to grow,
even cover. Most often, people think of ivy or low-
hardy, lush, beautiful, and not invasive in the garden. Try
growing pachysandra, but ground cover also includes
growing one of these suggested types of ivies:
evergreen and deciduous plants, herbaceous and woody
species, ornamental grasses, perennials, and annuals.
• Lady Frances, Hedera helix
For example, planting carpet roses rather than ivy will
• Teardrop, Hedera helix
provide a landscape bed with a fragrant swath of flowers.
• Golden Ingot, Hedera helix
By nature, ground covers spread, so it’s important
• Duck Foot, Hedera helix
to think about how you’ll control growth so it doesn’t
• Misty, Hedera helix
take over the landscape. Use edging at least four inches
• Anita, Hedera helix
deep to contain creeping and spreading. Also, take
• Shamrock, Hedera helix
care to properly prepare the soil. Start this project with
loamy, well-balanced soil. Avoid planting ground cover
For more information on invasive ivies,
in mid-summer, when hot sun adds stress to young
visit www.ivy.org.
plants. This project is best accomplished in early spring
so root systems will develop before hot, dry months.
Groundcover is created by low, sprawling perennials that require virtually no maintenance. Some examples include verbana
(above), vinca and some varieties of ivy.
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■ How to Establish Groundcover
1 2
Prepare the soil by breaking it up with hoe or cultivator and Lay out plants in a staggered grid pattern. Refer to the
working it to a depth of 8" to 10". Incorporate a layer of organic informational stake from the nursery for watering and sunlight
matter, such as peat moss or compost. If soil is compacted, recommendations, as well as guidance on how close together
add peat moss or compost to improve porosity. Smooth the plants should be placed. While the area might look sparse at
planting area with a rake until level. first, groundcover plants will fill in and mature rapidly.
3 4
Dig a hole for each plant, using a hand trowel. Remove the Water the plants deeply. Ensure that the soil is constantly
plant from the pot and set it in the hole, gently pressing down moist for at least the first week after planting. Do not over-
roots so they make contact with soil. Repeat this process for water—you should not allow standing pools of water to form
each plant. Backfill over the top of the plant hole as necessary. at the bases of plants. Spread a thin layer of mulch around
young plants to prevent soil from losing moisture and protect
against erosion.
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Mulching Beds
M ulch is the dressing on a landscape bed, but its
benefits run deeper than surface appeal. Mulch
protects plant and tree roots, prevents soil erosion,
the summer to retain water, and in the winter to
insulate soil. (As weather warms, lift some of the
mulch to allow new growth to sprout.) Spring is prime
discourages weed growth, and helps the ground retain mulching time.
moisture. You can purchase a variety of mulches for
different purposes. Synthetic mulches and stones are
long-lasting, colorful, and resist erosion. They’ll never Mulches ▸
break down. Organic mulches, such as compost and
wood chips, enrich soil and double as “dressing” and Organic:
healthy soil amendments. • Compost
No matter what type of mulch you choose, • Lawn clippings (free of chemicals)
application technique is critical. If you spread it • Leaves
too thick it may become matted down and can trap • Wood chips or shavings
too much moisture. Too thin, it can wash away to • Bark
reveal bare spots. If it is unevenly applied it will • Manure
appear spotty.
Consider timing before you apply mulch. The Synthetic and Stone:
best time to mulch is mid- to late-spring, after the • Recycled rubber mulch
ground warms up. If you apply mulch too soon, the • Stone or brick
ground will take longer to warm up and your plants • Landscape fabric
will suffer for it. You may add more mulch during
Mulch comes in many varieties, but most is made from shredded wood and bark. Because it is an organic material it breaks
down and requires regular refreshing.
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■ How to Landscape with Mulch
1
Remove weeds from the bed and water plants thoroughly Option: Help contain the mulch in a confined area by installing
before applying mulch. For ornamental plating beds it often flexible landscape edging.
is a good idea to lay strips of landscape fabric over the soil
before mulching.
2 3
Working in sections, scoop a pile of material from the Spread mulch material to a uniform 1" thickness to start.
load (wheelbarrow or bag) and place the piles around the Do not allow mulch to touch tree trunks or stems of woody
landscape bed. ornamentals. Compost can double as mulch and a soil
amendment that provides soil with nutrients. If you don’t make
your own compost, you can purchase all-natural products such
as Sweet Peet.
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Rain Garden
A rain garden collects and filters water run-
off, which prevents flooding and protects the
environment from pollutants carried by urban
collectively they can produce significant community
benefits. For instance, if homeowners in a subdivision
each decide to build a rain garden, the neighborhood
stormwater. Rain gardens provide a valuable habitat could avoid installing an unsightly retention pond to
for birds and wildlife, and these purposeful landscape collect stormwater run-off. So you see, the little steps
features also enhance the appearance of your yard. you take at home can make a big difference.
In fact, when a rain garden is installed and planted Most of the work of building a rain garden is
properly, it looks like any other landscape bed on a planning and digging. If you recruit some helpers
property. (There are no ponds or puddles involved.) for the manual labor, you can easily accomplish this
The difference is, a rain garden can allow about 30 project in a weekend. As for the planning, give yourself
percent more water to soak into the ground than a good time to establish a well-thought-out design that
conventional lawn. considers the variables mentioned here. And as always,
Though a rain garden may seem like a small before breaking ground, you should contact your local
environmental contribution toward a mammoth effort utility company or digging hotline to be sure your site
to clean up our water supply and preserve aquifers, is safe.
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Tools & Materials ▸
Shovels Carpenter’s level Tape measure String
Rakes Small backhoe Wood stakes, at least 6 ft. 2 × 4 board
Trowels (optional) 2 ft. long (optional)
Before You Dig ▸
Determine the best place for your rain garden by answering the following questions:
• Where does water stand after a heavy rain?
• What is the water source? (drainpipe, run-off from a patio or other flat surface, etc.)
• What direction does water move on your property?
• Where could water potentially enter and exit a rain garden?
• Where could a rain garden be placed to catch water from its source before it flows to the lowest point on the property?
• Do you need more than one rain garden?
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■ Preparing the Land
Soil is a key factor in the success of your rain garden is low. Shoot for areas with full or partial sun that will
because it acts as a sponge to soak up water that help dry up the land, and stay away from large trees.
would otherwise run off and contribute to flooding, The flatter the ground, the better. Ideally, the slope
or cause puddling in a landscape. Soil is either should be less than a 12% grade.
sandy, silty, or clay-based, so check your yard to Residential rain gardens can range from 100
determine what category describes your property. to 300 square feet in size, and they can be much
Sandy soil is ideal for drainage, while clay soils are smaller, though you will have less of an opportunity
sticky and clumpy. Water doesn’t easily penetrate to embellish the garden with a variety of plants. Rain
thick, compacted clay soils, so these soils need to be gardens function well when shaped like a crescent,
amended to aerate the soil body and give it a porous kidney, or teardrop. The slope of the area where you’re
texture that’s more welcoming to water run-off. Silty installing the rain garden will determine how deep
soils are smooth but not sticky and absorb water you need to dig. Ideally, dig four to eight inches deep.
relatively well, though they also require amending. If the garden is too shallow, you’ll need more square
Really, no soil is perfect, so you can plan on boosting footage to capture the water run-off, or risk overflow.
its rain garden potential with soil amendments. The If the garden is too deep, water may collect and look
ideal soil amendment is comprised of: washed sharp like a pond. That’s not the goal.
sand (50%); double-shredded hardwood mulch (15%); Finally, as you consider the ideal spot for your
topsoil (30%); and peat moss (5%). Compost can be rain garden—and you may find that you need more
substituted for peat moss. than one—think about areas of your yard that you
While planning your rain garden, give careful want to enhance with landscaping. Rain gardens are
consideration to its position, depth, and shape. Build aesthetically pleasing, and you’ll want to enjoy all the
it at least 10 feet from the house, and not directly over hard work you put into preparing the land and planting
a septic system. Avoid wet patches where infiltration annuals and perennials.
■ How to Build a Rain Garden
1 2
Choose a site, size and shape for the raingarden, Dig around the perimeter of the rain garden and then
following the design standards outlined on the previous two excavate the central area to a depth of 4 to 8". Heap excavated
pages. Use rope or a hose to outline the rain garden excavation soil around the garden edges to create a berm on the three
area. Avoid trees and be sure to stay at least 10 ft. away from sides that are not at the entry point. This allows the rain garden
permanent structures. Try to choose one of the recommended to hold water in during a storm.
shapes: crescent, kidney, or tear drop.
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3 4
Dig and fill sections of the raingarden that are lower, Level the center of the rain garden and check with a long
working to create a level foundation. Tamp the top of the berm board with a carpenter’s level on top. Fill in low areas with soil
so it will stand up to water flow. The berm eventually can be and dig out high areas. Move the board to different places to
planted with grasses or covered with mulch. check the entire garden for level. Note: If the terrain demands,
a slope of up to 12% is okay. Then, rake the soil smooth.
5 6
Plant specimens that are native to your region and Apply double-shredded mulch over the bed, avoiding
have a well-established root system. Contact a local university crowns of new transplants. Mulching is not necessary after
extension or nursery to learn which plants can survive in a the second growing season. Complement the design with
saturated environment (inside the rain garden). Group together natural stone, a garden bench with a path leading to it, or an
bunches of 3 to 7 plants of like variety for visual impact. Mix ornamental fence or garden wall. Water a newly established
plants of different heights, shapes, and textures to give the rain garden during drought times—as a general rule, plants
garden dimension. Mix sedges, rushes, and native grasses with need 1 in. of water per week. After plants are established,
flowering varieties. The plants and soil cleanse stormwater that you should not have to water the garden. Maintenance
runs into the garden, leaving pure water to soak slowly back requirements include minor weeding and cutting back dead or
into the earth. unruly plant material annually.
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Xeriscape
X eriscaping, in a nutshell, is waterwise gardening.
It is a form of landscaping using drought-tolerant
plants and grasses. How a property is designed,
certainly include grass in a xeriscape plan, but the key
is to incorporate turf where it makes the most sense:
children’s play areas or front yards protected from foot
planted, and maintained can drastically reduce water traffic. Also, your choice of plants expands far beyond
usage if xeriscape is put into practice. Some think that prickly cactus. The plant list, depending on where you
xeriscaping will become a new standard in gardening live, is long and varied.
as water becomes a more precious commodity and as
homeowners’ concern for the environment elevates.
Several misconceptions about xeriscaping still
exist. Many people associate it with desert cactus and Tools & Materials ▸
dirt, sparsely placed succulents and rocks. They are
convinced that turf is a four-letter word and grass is Basic tools Fill
far too thirsty for xeriscaping. This is not true. You can
Xeriscaping is associated with sand, cacti, and arid climates, but the basic idea of planting flora that withstands dry conditions
and makes few demands on water resources is a valid goal in any area.
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■ The Seven Principles of Xeriscape
Keep in mind these foundation principles of Xeriscape 5. Mulch: Soil maintains moisture more effectively
as you plan a landscape design. First begin by finding when its surface is covered with mulch such as
out what the annual rainfall is in your area. What time leaves, coarse compost, pine needles, wood chips,
of year does it usually rain? Answering these questions bark, or gravel. Mulch will prevent weed growth
will help guide plant selection. Now look at the mirco- and reduce watering needs when it is spread three
environment: your property. Where are there spots of inches thick.
sun and shade? Are there places where water naturally 6. Smart irrigation: If you must irrigate, use soaker
collects and the ground is boggy? What about dry hoses or drip irrigation (see page 112). These
spots where plant life can’t survive? Where are trees, systems deposit water directly at plants’ roots,
structures (your home), patios, walkways, and play minimizing run-off and waste. The best time to
areas placed? Sketch your property and figure these water is early morning.
variables into your Xeriscape design. 7. Maintenance: Sorry, there’s no such thing as a
Also, carefully study these seven principles and no-maintenance lawn. But you can drastically cut
work them into your plan. your outdoor labor hours with Xeriscape. Just stick
to these principles and consider these additional
1. Water conservation: Group plants with similar tips: 1) plant windbreaks to keep soil from drying
watering needs together for the most efficient out (see page 52); 2) if possible, install mature
water use. Incorporate larger plantings that plants that require less water than young ones;
provide natural heating and cooling opportunities 3) try “cycle” irrigation where you water to the
for adjacent buildings. If erosion is a problem, point of seeing run-off, then pause so the soil
build terraces to control water runoff. Before can soak up the moisture before beginning to
making any decision, ask yourself: How will this water again.
impact water consumption?
2. Soil improvement: By increasing organic
matter in your soil and keeping it well aerated,
you provide a hardy growing environment for 1
2 Leave as is. I’m still waiting for hi res
NF
plants, reducing the need for excess watering. BC
AB
Aim for soil that drains well and maintains
SK PE
PQ
MB
NB NS
ON
moisture effectively. Find out your soil pH level by
WA
ND 3 NH
VT ME
OR MT
sending a sample away to a university extension or ID
SD MN
MA
purchasing a home kit. This way, you can properly WI NY
RI
WY MI
CT
4 PA
amend soil that is too acidic or alkaline.
IA OH NJ
NE IN DE
NV IL
CA UT 5 WV MD
MO
3. Limited turf areas: Grass isn’t a no-no, but CO
KS KY
VA
NC
6
planting green acres with no purpose is a waste.
TN
OK AR
AZ NM SC
11 MS
The typical American lawn is not water-friendly— 7
LA
AL GA
just think how many people struggle to keep 8
TX
FL
their lawns green during hot summers. If you 9 10
choose turf, ask a nursery for water-saving species
adapted to your area.
4. Appropriate plants: Native plants take less
work and less water to thrive. In general, drought-
resistant plants have leaves that are small, thick,
glossy, silver-grey, or fuzzy. These attributes help
plants retain water. As a rule, hot, dry areas with
south and west exposure like drought-tolerant
plants; while north- and east-facing slopes and
walls provide moisture for plants that need a
drink more regularly. Always consider a plant’s
water requirements and place those with similar
needs together.
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■ How to Xeriscape Your Yard
1 2
Plan the landscape with minimal turf, grouping together Divide your Xeriscape landscape plan into three zones.
plants with similar water requirements. Refer to the Seven The oasis is closest to a large structure (your home) and can
Principles of Xeriscape as you sketch. Always consider your benefit from rain runoff and shade. The transition areas is
region’s climate, and your property’s microclimate: rainfall, a buffer between the oasis and arid zones. Arid zones are
sunny areas, shady spots, wind exposure, slopes (causing farthest away from structures and get the most sunlight. These
run-off), and high foot-traffic zones. conditions will dictate the native plants you choose.
3 4
Plant in receding layers by installing focal-point plants As you plant beds, be sure to group together plants that
closest to the home (or any other structure), choosing require more water so you can efficiently water these spaces.
species that are native to the area. As you get farther
away from the home, plant more subtle varieties that are
more drought-tolerant.
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5 6
Incorporate groundcover on slopes, narrow strips that are Mulch will help retain moisture, reduce erosion, and
difficult to irrigate and mow, and shady areas where turf does serves as a pesticide-free weed control. Use it to protect plant
not thrive. Install hardscape such as walkways, patios, and beds and fill in areas where turf will not grow.
stepping-stone paths in high foot-traffic zones.
7
Plant turf sparingly in areas that are easy to maintain Option: Install a drip irrigation system to water plants
and will not require extra watering. Choose low-water use efficiently.
grasses adapted for your region.These may include Kentucky
Bluegrass, Zoysia, St. Augustine, and Buffalo grass.
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Landscaping
with Water
W ater is a key element in any landscape, working
both as a decorative element and as a critical
part of the ecosystem. Moving water can set a mood
for all the senses, as its gurgling sounds can lull you
into a peaceful state of mind (and also deaden outside
noise that is less desirable). A garden pond serves as
a focal point and allows you to introduce whole new
classes of plantlife, including floating plants such
as water lilies and marginal species such as cattails.
Whether it resides in a pond, a stream, a classical
fountain or even a waterfall, water will transform
your landscape.
Along with its aesthetic benefits, water must
be delivered to the living matter throughout your
yard. For large yards where watering by hand or with
sprinklers can be very time consuming, water delivery
can be done through very practical means like drip
irrigation or automatic, in-ground irrigation systems.
And installing a rain barrel or two is a convenient way
to keep a ready supply of free water near your house,
garage, or shed.
In this chapter:
• Gallery
• Rain Barrel
• Drip Irrigation
• In-ground Sprinkler System
• Hard-shell Pond & Fountain
• Freeform Garden Pond
■ 105
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Gallery
This complex backyard waterfall splits in two directions, making it a more challenging project to build. Your friends and
neighbors will appreciate the effort.
A well-planned sprinkler system delivers water to thirsty landscape beds and turf.
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Cascading water pots fashioned
from exposed aggregate concrete have
a significant calming effect while
occupying only a small amount of
real estate.
Local flagstone is stacked to form a dramatic fountain structure in the center of this fieldstone-lined garden pond.
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Larger specimen rocks create a pond border and line the streambed in this backyard water feature. The shallow pool at the end
of the waterfall is a perfect spot for goldfish.
Capture stormwater and runoff with
a rain barrel. A traditional coopered oak
barrel is always desirable if you find one.
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A touch of Tuscany reveals itself in this
classical garden pool and surroundings.
Concrete is formed and poured in place to create this custom waterfall concourse.
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Rain Barrel
O ne of the simplest, least expensive ways to irrigate
a landscape is with a system that collects and
stores rainwater for controlled distribution either
through a garden hose or a drip irrigation system.
The most common system includes one or more
rain barrels (typically 40 to 80 gallons in capacity)
connected to downspouts. Valve fittings at the bottoms
of the barrels let you connect them to a hose or to a
drip irrigation line. The system can be configured as
a primary irrigation system or a secondary system to
augment a standard irrigation system.
Some communities now offer subsidies for rain
barrel use, offering free or reduced-price barrels and
downspout connection kits. Check with your local
water authorities.
Tools & Materials ▸
Drill Downspout diverter
Hacksaw (optional)
Rain barrel kit Pavers or blocks (optional)
■ How to Install a Rain Barrel System
1 2
Select a location for the barrel under a downspout. Locate Connect the spigot near the bottom of the barrel. Some
your barrel as close to the area you want to irrigate as kits may include a second spigot for filling watering cans.
possible. Make sure the barrel has a stable, level base. Connect Use Teflon tape at all threaded fittings to ensure a tight seal.
the overflow tube, and make sure it is pointed away from Remove the downspout, and set the barrel on its base.
the foundation.
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3 4
Cut the downspout to length with a hacksaw. Reconnect Link the downspout elbow to the rain barrel with a length
the elbow fitting to the downspout using sheet metal of flexible downspout extension attached to the elbow and the
screws. Attach the cover to the top of the rain barrel. Some barrel cover.
systems include a cover with porous wire mesh, to which
the downspout delivers water. Others include a cover with a
sealed connection (next step).
5 6
Variation: If your barrel comes with a Connect a drip irrigation tube or If you want, increase water storage
downspout adapter, cut away a segment garden hose to the spigot. A Y-fitting, like by connecting two or more rain barrels
of downspout and insert the adapter so the one shown here, will let you feed the together with a linking kit, available from
it diverts water into the barrel. drip irrigation system through a garden many kit suppliers.
hose when the rain barrel is empty.
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Drip Irrigation
P lants love deep, long drinks of water, and this
can best be accomplished through water-saving
drip irrigation. Rather than dousing plant beds with
a hit of water, which can pool on the surface and
run off rather than sinking down to feed roots, drip
irrigation’s misty spray or gurgling drip (depending
on the system) take time to feed plants slowly. Not
a drop of water is wasted, making this method the
most “green” way to water plant beds that require
such maintenance.
Tools & Materials ▸ Drip irrigation systems offer many different types of fittings,
including the spray head shown here. Because they precisely
Drip irrigation kit Extra fittings, direct water exactly where it’s needed, drip systems waste
Tubing punch as needed very little water. A thick layer of mulch around plants will help
keep soil moist.
■ Irrigation Equipment
Filter
housing
Sprayer stakes and filter
Emitters
Crimp
Key
punch
Tee
fitting
Pressure-
Coupler reducer
Basic kits come with only a few components, but can be Tubing for drip irrigation is thin-wall flexible polyethylene or
augmented with pieces purchased “a la carte.” You’ll also need polyvinyl, typically 1⁄4" or 1⁄2" in diameter. Internal diameters can
a punch for piercing the tubing and “goof plugs” for repairing vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, so it’s a good idea to
errant punches. purchase pipe and fittings from a single source.
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■ How to Install a Drip Irrigation System
1 2 3
Connect the system’s supply tube At garden bed locations, begin For trees and shrubs, make a branch
to a water source, such as a hose spigot installing drip emitters every 18". You loop around the tree. Pierce the feed
or a rainwater system. If you tap into your can also purchase 1⁄2" PE tubing with tube near the tree and insert a T-fitting.
household water supply, use a pressure emitters preinstalled. If you use this Loop the branch around the tree
gauge to check water pressure. If tubing, cut the feeder tube once it and connect it to both outlets on the
pressure exceeds 50 pounds per square reaches the first bed, and attach the T-fitting. Use 1⁄4" tubing for small trees,
inch (psi), install a pressure-reducing emitter tubing with a barbed coupling. 1
⁄2" for larger specimens. Insert emitters
fitting before attaching the feeder tube. Route the tubing among the plants so in the loop every 18".
A filter should also be attached to the that emitters are over the roots.
faucet before the feeder tube.
4 5 6
Use micro sprayers for hard-to-reach Potted plants and raised beds can Once all branch lines and emitters
plants. Sprayers can be connected also be watered with sprayers. Place are installed, flush the system by turning
directly to the main feeder line or stake-mounted sprayers in the pots or on the water and let it flow for a full
positioned on short branch lines. beds. Connect a length of 1⁄4" tubing minute. Then, close the ends of the
Sprayers come in a variety of spray to the feeder line with a coupler, and feeder line and the branch lines with
patterns and flow rates; choose one most connect the 1⁄4" line to the sprayer. figure-8 end crimps. Tubing can be left
appropriate for the plants to be watered. exposed or buried under mulch.
EcoTip ▸
For a fast drip irrigation solution, use a soaker hose with tiny holes. You can snake the hose through a landscape bed or
bury it under mulch. Cut the hose to a desired length and use end caps or hose fittings, as needed. These hoses have a
2- to 3-inch watering width.
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In-ground Sprinkler System
S prinkler systems offer a carefree means of keeping
your lawn and garden green. Home improvement
centers and landscaping retailers sell kits as well
rain sensors that prevent the system from operating
if it is raining. The instructions will vary depending
on the type of timer and accessory you buy, but all
as individual components for installing in-ground operate in largely the same way: the timer plugs into
systems. Installing a system can take a bit of time, but an ordinary receptacle, and sends its control signals to
it’s not at all difficult. The most challenging part of the manifold valves through low-voltage wires.
the job might be tapping into your home’s plumbing
system. If you’re unsure of your abilities here, you can
install everything but the final hookups, then hire a
plumber to tap into the plumbing system. Tools & Materials ▸
For larger yards, design a sprinkler system with
several zones, each serviced by a separate feeder Bucket Antisiphon fitting
pipe. Water is distributed to these zones at a manifold Stopwatch Irrigation manifold
connected to the main supply line. Pressure valve with control module
Before beginning an irrigation system project, check Drill with 1" bit & controller
with your local building department. You may need a Shovel Wooden stakes & string
permit. Also check local requirements regarding backflow Utility knife PVC or PE
prevention or antisiphon devices. Before you dig trenches, Compression T-fitting irrigation pipe
call your utility company to have any utility lines marked. PVC pipe T-fittings & L-fittings
A variety of timers are available for automating PVC valves & fittings Irrigation risers
any irrigation system. More expensive models will PVC solvent glue Irrigation heads
control as many as 16 different zones, and may have
Water from the house supply (or
sometimes an external source such as
a river and pump) enters a manifold in
the irrigation system and is apportioned
out to a network of sprinkler heads from
the manifold.
The manifold for a sprinkler system
typically is buried in a shallow box in
the yard and covered with an easily
removed lid.
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■ How to Design an In-ground Sprinkler System
1 2
House
Valve manifold
Sprinkler line
(PVC pipe)
Sprinkler line
(PE pipe)
To measure the flow rate of your water service, set a
gallon bucket under an outdoor spigot. Open the faucet all the
way and record the amount of time it takes to fill the bucket.
To calculate the gallons per minute (GPM), divide 60 by the
number of seconds it took to fill the gallon bucket. So, if it Circuit 1
Sprinkler heads
took 6 seconds, then 60/6 equals 10 GPM. This number will
determine the size of your manifold and feeder pipe.
Circuit 2
3
Make a sketch showing layout of spinkler heads.
Follow manufacturer’s instructions for overlapping head spray
patterns. Keep heads at least 6" from sidewalks, driveways,
and buildings. Next, mark the irrigation manifold location and
create zones for your sprinkler heads. Locate the manifold
Now measure the pressure of your water system. Make near the water meter. Zones are individual runs of PVC or
sure all faucets in the house are off. Attach a pressure valve to PE supply pipe the same size as your water main. Turns and
any faucet in the system and open its valve all the way. Record changes of elevation can reduce efficiency, so try to design
the reading. zones with few turns or rises.
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■ How to Install a Sprinkler System
1 2
Choose a manifold with as many outlets as you have
zones. The manifold shown here has two zones. Assemble the
manifold as directed (some come preassembled, others are
solvent-glued) and set it in the hole. Connect the supply pipe
from the house to the manifold with an automated control
module. install the controller on the house near the supply
pipe (inset) and run the included wires under the supply pipe
from the valves to control module.
3
Tap into your water supply. Shut off the water at the main
shutoff valve. On the downstream side of your water meter,
install a compression T-fitting. To supply the irrigation system,
you will need to run PVC pipe to the manifold location. At
a convenient location inside the house, install a gate valve Mark the sprinkler locations. Use stakes or landscape flags
with bleed in the line. Outside, dig a 10" trench leading to the to mark the sprinkler locations and then mark the pipe routes
manifold location. Drill a 1" hole through the sill directly above with spray paint or string. Once all the locations are marked,
the trench, and route the pipe through the hole and down to dig the trenches. In nonfreezing climates, trenches can be as
the trench, using an L-fitting. You may also need to install a little as 6". In freezing climates, dig trenches at least 10" deep.
backflow prevention or an antisiphon device between the main Renting a trencher can speed the job considerably. Set the sod
and the irrigation manifold; check local code. aside so you can replace it after the sprinklers are installed.
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4 5
Lay the pipe. Work on one zone at a time, beginning at the Install the risers for the sprinkler heads. Risers come in a
manifold. Connect the first section of PVC or PE pipe (PE variety of styles. The simplest are short, threaded pipe nipples,
shown) to the manifold outlet with solvent glue for PVC, or a but flexible and cut-to-fit risers are also available. Use a riser
barbed coupler and pipe clamps for PE (shown). At the first recommended by the manufacturer for your sprinkler head.
sprinkler location, connect a T-fitting with a female-threaded For pop-up heads, make sure the nipple is the correct length
outlet for the riser. Continue with the next run of PE to the next for proper sprinkler operation.
sprinkler location. Install T-fittings at each sprinkler location. At
the end of each zone, install an L-fitting for the last sprinkler.
6
Once all the risers are in place, flush the system. Turn on the Variation: In freezing climates, it’s a good idea to install
water and open the valves for each zone one at a time, allowing a valve with a fitting that allows the system to be drained
the water to run for about a minute or until it runs clear. After with compressed air. Install the fitting downstream of any
the system is flushed, begin installing the sprinkler heads. antisiphon valves but before the manifold. In the fall, close the
Thread the heads onto the risers and secure them in place irrigation system’s shutoff valve and open any drain valves. At
with earth. Make sure the heads are vertical (stake the risers if the manifold, open one zone’s valve and blow air into the zone
necessary). Fill in the rest of the trenches and replace the sod. until no water comes out. Repeat for each zone.
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Hard-shell Pond & Fountain
A small pond and fountain add more than the
illusion of luxury to landscapes; they also add the
sound and sparkle of moving water and invite birds to
You can install a fountain in an existing water
feature, or you can build a new one with a hard liner,
as shown here, or with a soft liner (see pages 124 to
join the party. Installing a pond and fountain can be 127). Have your utility providers mark the locations of
heavy work, but it’s not at all complicated. If you can all utility lines before beginning this or any project that
use a shovel and read a level, you can install a beautiful involves digging.
fountain like the classic Roman fountain shown here.
Most freestanding fountains are designed to be
set into an independently installed water feature. The
fountains typically are preplumbed with an integral Tools & Materials ▸
pump, but larger ones may have an external pumping
apparatus. The kind of kit you’ll find at your local Level Interlocking
building or garden center normally comes in at least Shovel or spade paving stones
two parts: the pedestal and the vessel. Hand tamp Rubber floor mat
The project shown here falls into the luxury-you- Rope Freestanding
can-afford category and is fully achievable for a DIYer. Preformed fountain
If the project you have in mind is of massive scale (with pond liner Fountain pedestal
a pond larger than around 8 × 10 ft.) you’ll likely need Sand Tarp
to work with a pondscaping professional to acquire and Compactable gravel River stones
install the materials needed for such an endeavor.
The work necessary to install a garden pond and fountain will pay dividends for many years to come. The process is not
complicated, but does involve some fairly heavy labor, such as digging and hauling stones.
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■ Installing Ponds & Fountains
Safety Tip ▸
Most municipalities require that permanent water features be surrounded by a structure, fence, or wall on all sides to
keep small children from wandering in. Good designers view this as a creative challenge, rather than an impediment.
A hard shell-type liner combines well with a fountain because its flat, hard bottom makes a stable surface for resting the
fountain base. You may need to prop up the fountain to get it to the optimal level.
If you plan to stock your pond with
plant life or livestock, it’s important to keep
a healthy balance. For stocking with fish,
the pond must be at least 24" deep, and
you should have at least one submerged
water plant to create oxygen.
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■ How to Install a Pond & Fountain
1 2
Choose a flat area of your yard. Set the hard-shell pond Cut away the sod within the outline. Measure the liner at
liner right-side up in the installation area and adjust it until the center and excavate the base area to this depth. Dig the
you are pleased with the location (it should be well away from hole 2 to 3" deeper than the liner, and dig past the outline a
buried utility lines). Hold a level against the edge of the top of couple of inches all the way around. If the sides of your liner
the liner and use it as a guide to transfer the liner shape onto are sloped, slope the edges of the hole to match.
the ground below with a rope.
3 4
Remove any rocks or debris on the bottom of the hole, Cut away the sod beyond the liner excavation area
and add sand to cover the bottom of the hole about 2" deep. and dig out an area wide enough to accommodate your
Test fit the liner and adjust the sand until the underside of the paving stones (called coping stones), about 1" deeper than
liner rim is slightly above ground and the liner is level from side the average stone thickness. Flagstone is the most common
to side. natural stone choice for coping because it is flat; concrete
pavers also may be used easily. Make sure the surface of the
excavation is as level as possible.
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5 6
Fill the liner with 4 to 6" of water. Fill the space between Bail about half of the water out of the pond. Place an
the liner and the sides of the hole with damp sand, using a exterior-rated rubber floor mat (or mats) at least 1⁄2" thick on
2 × 4 to tamp it down as you go. Add more water and then the liner in the spot where you’d like the fountain to rest.
more sand; continue until the pond and the gap are filled.
7 8
Feed the fountain’s power cord up through the access Check to make sure the pedestal is level. If necessary,
holes in the pedestal. Set the fountain in place on top of the shim the pedestal with small flat stones to make the
pedestal and run the cord to the edge. fountain level.
(continued)
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9 10
Cover the pond and pedestal with a clean tarp, and add Set interlocking pavers in place around the lip of the liner.
an inch of compactable gravel to the excavated area for the Adjust compactable gravel as necessary to make the pavers
paving stones. Tamp down the gravel and check the area with level. Add 1 to 3" of water to stabilize the liner.
a level. Cut a small channel for the power cord and route it
beyond the excavated area toward a power source.
11 12
Ponds look more natural if you line the bottoms with rock. Cover the bottom of the liner with washed river rock. Place
Small-diameter (2 to 3") river rock is a good choice. Before the fountain onto the pedestal and submerge the cord, running
putting it into the pond, rinse the rock well. One trick is to put it out of the pond in an inconspicuous spot, such as between
the nozzle of a hose in the bottom of a clean 5-gallon bucket two pavers.
and then fill the bucket with dirty rock. Turn on the hose and let
the water run for 15 minutes or so. This will cause impurities to
float up and out of the bucket.
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13 14
Completely fill both the pond and the fountain’s base Allow the water to settle for 30 minutes or so, and
with water. If you will not be stocking the pond with fish or then turn on the fountain pump and test. Let the pump run
plants, add two ounces of chlorine bleach for every 10 gallons for an hour or so, and then turn it off and remove the fountain
of water. head. Use a hose and spray nozzle to clear out any blockages.
Perform this maintenance regularly and whenever you notice
that the spray from the fountain seems to be restricted.
Power Cord Management ▸
There are many ways to provide electrical power to operate tripping hazard and an electrical hazard (lawn mowers and
the fountain pump. The best way is to add a new outdoor wiring do not get along), you can bury the cord in a shallow
circuit, but this requires an electrician if you are not trench. To protect it from digging instruments, either backfill
experienced with home wiring. The easier route is to feed with rocks so you know the exact location of the cord, or
your fountain pump with an exterior-rated extension cord bury it encased in heavy conduit.
that’s plugged into an existing outdoor receptacle. Because Avoid using this tactic if the pond is located more
having an extension cord laying in your lawn is both a than 50 feet from the power source.
Dig a trench about 6" deep and 6" wide from the pond Feed the cord through conduit and lay the conduit in
to your outdoor power source. the trench all the way from the pond to the power source.
Backfill the trench with dirt.
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Freeform Garden Pond
A tranquil reflecting pond serves as a focal point in an
outdoor room and a fertile setting for water-loving
plants. A pond’s shape can take on any configuration if
Tools & Materials ▸
you use soft, pliable pond liner. Once complete, your Level River rocks
pond will become an anchor for additional landscape Shovel or spade Plants (optional)
elements, such as a bridge, or stonescaping by placing Hand tamp Fish (optional)
appealing natural rock as a border. Tape measure
EDPM (ethylene propylene diene monomer) liners Garden hose or rope
are made from a synthetic rubber that is highly flexible, Spray paint
extremely durable, and fish-friendly. EDPM liners Pond underlayment
remain flexible at temperatures ranging from -40 to 175° Flexible pond liner
Fahrenheit. These are cost-effective and easy to find at Sand
building or garden centers or landscape supply stores. Compactable gravel
Look for a liner that is 45 mil thick. Some landscape Flagstone pavers
supply centers carry pond liner by the lineal foot.
Free-form ponds blend into the landscape, especially with the addition of coping stones set into the edges. Building one
involves heavy labor, but no special skills.
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■ How to Create a Freeform Garden Pond
Sizing Your Liner ▸ 1
Flexible liners adapt to nearly any shape or size
pond you want. They can fit a typical kidney-shaped
excavation with planting shelves, like the one shown Select a location well away from buried utility lines. Use
here, or a very unique shape of your own design. a garden hose or a rope to outline the pond. Avoid very sharp
EPDM rubber liner material is sold in precut sizes at turns, and try for a natural looking configuration. When you’re
your local home and garden center. satisfied with the pond’s shape, lift the hose or rope and use
spray paint to mark the perimeter.
2 3
Find the lowest point on the perimeter and flag it Set a level on the plant shelf to confirm that it is the same
for reference as the elevation benchmark. This represents elevation throughout. Unless your building site is perfectly level
the top of the pond’s water-holding capacity, so all depth or you have done a lot of earth moving, the edges of the pond
measurements should be taken from this point. Start digging are not likely to be at the same elevation, so there may be
at the deepest point (usually the middle of the pond) and work some pond liner visible between the benchmark and the high
out toward the edges. For border plantings, establish one 6- to point. This can usually be concealed with plants, rocks, or by
8"-wide ledge about 12" down from the benchmark. overhanging your coping more in high areas.
(continued)
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4 5
Dig a 4"-deep by 12"-wide frame around the top of the hole Cover the bottom and sides of the excavation with pond
to make room for the coping stones (adjust the width if you underlayment. Pond underlayment is a shock-absorbing,
are using larger stones). Remove any rocks, debris, roots, or woven fabric that you should be able to buy from the same
anything sharp in the hole, and add a 2" layer of sand to cover source that provides your liner. If necessary, cut triangles of
the bottom of the frame. underlayment and fit them together, overlapping pieces as
necessary to cover the contours. This is not a waterproof layer.
6 7
Lay out the liner material and let it warm in the sun Begin filling the pond with water. Watch the liner as the
for an hour or two. Arrange the liner to cover the excavation, water level gets higher, and adjust and tuck it to minimize
folding and overlapping as necessary. Place rocks around the sharp folds and empty pockets.
edges to keep it from sliding into the hole.
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8 9
Add some larger stones to the pond as the water rises, Fill the pond all the way to the top until it overflows at
including a flat stone for your pond pump/filter. If the pump/ the benchmark. Remove the stones holding the liner in place
filter has a fountain feature, locate it near the center. If not, and begin laying flat stones, such as flagstones, around the
locate it near the edge in an easy-to-reach spot. perimeter of the pond. Cut and trim flagstones as necessary to
minimize gaps.
10 11
Finish laying the coping stones and fill in gaps with Consult a garden center, an extension agent from a local
cutoff and shards. If you are in a temperate climate, consider university, or the Internet to help you choose plants for your
mortaring the coping stones, but be very careful to keep wet pond. Include a mixture of deep-water plants, marginals,
mortar out of the water: it kills plants and damages pump/ oxygenators, and floating plants. Place the plants in the pond.
filters. Set flagstone pavers on the ledge at the perimeter of the If necessary to bring them to the right height, set the plants on
pond. Add more water and adjust the liner again. Fill the pond bricks or flat stones. Spread decorative gravel, sand, or mulch
to just below the flagstones, and trim the liner. to cover the liner at the perimeter of the pond. Install plants
along the pond’s margins, if desired.
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Landscaping
with Stone
S tone in its many forms adds character to a
landscape—a sense of earthen timelessness that
feels like it has been on the property forever and that
it belongs there, no matter how new the project is.
With the array of convincing manufactured pavers
on the market that look like the “real thing,” creating
a stone patio or retaining wall is much easier for
the homeowner to accomplish. In this chapter, we
provide a collection of projects using natural and
manufactured stone pavers.
In this chapter:
• Gallery
• Interlocking Block Retaining Wall
• Stone Retaining Wall
• Drystack Stone Wall
• Mortared Stone Wall
• Repairing a Stone Wall
• Loose Rock Landscape Path
• Stepping Stone Landscape Path
• Timber & Gravel Landscape Steps
• Flagstone Landscape Steps
• Zen Garden
• Backyard Fire Pit
■ 129
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Gallery
Large slabs of stone are stacked to create broad landscape steps that will last for generations. You’ll want to hire a contractor to
work with anything this heavy.
Neatly laid sandstone pavers or even a cast concrete walk- A permeable paver driveway has gaps between paver units
way can add new lines and interesting textures to your garden. to help prevent water runoff from reaching the storm sewers.
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Cast and natural stone can be
combined effectively, but be sure to
put plenty of thought into it before you
commit. Mixing landscape elements can
backfire as easily as it can succeed.
A “statement” boulder adds drama to
this Zen-inspired garden space.
Loose-laid, freeform flagstones form
a more casual, naturalistic walkway than
cut stones. If you like doing jigsaw puzzles
you’ll enjoy this project.
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This drystack, ashlar retaining wall
is topped with capstones that create
shelves for potted plants. Using the wall
to terrace the hillside makes planning
and maintenance much easier.
Selected carefully and placed
thoughtfully, a few boulders and
specimen stones have a very similar
visual effect to specimen plants and
shrubberies.
Brick pavers complement the brick
siding on this house to create an inviting
transition between the house and yard.
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Drystack walls often are fitted with mortared caps to help hold the wall together and to make the top more useful as a resting spot.
Interlocking concrete block is the most common material A stone wall rounds off and defines this intimate patio space.
used to make retaining walls these days. The blocks are easy
to work with as long as you have a relatively strong back.
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Interlocking Block Retaining Wall
T hink of retaining walls as shelves in your landscape
where colorful plants can be on display, or as layers
that carve nooks out of a sloped area to make the
be bringing in soil to backfill the retaining wall.
Regardless of the reason for building a retaining wall,
the materials available today make the job much like
space more user-friendly. The fact is, keeping grass putting together a puzzle. You don’t need mortar, and
alive on a steep slope is virtually mission impossible. you can find interlocking block in various textures
You can prevent erosion and form levels of usable and colors that complement existing architectural
space by building a retaining wall, or series of walls. features. Some types of block simply stack, while
Retaining walls may be functional—serving to others are held together by an overlapping system of
literally “retain” land at various levels on a slope; flanges. These flanges automatically set the backward
or purely aesthetic, as a way to add visual, vertical pitch as blocks are stacked. Still, some blocks use
interest to a flat landscape. In this case, you’ll fiberglass pins.
Tools & Materials ▸
Wheelbarrow Masonry chisel Tape measure Perforated drain pipe
Shovel Eye protection Marking pencil Coarse backfill
Garden rake Hearing protectors Caulk gun material
Line level Work gloves Stakes Construction adhesive
Hand tamper Circular saw with Mason’s string Retaining wall block
Tamping machine masonry-cutting blade Landscape fabric Cap blocks
Small maul Level Compactable gravel Spraypaint
Terraced retaining walls work well on steep hillsides. Two or more short retaining walls are easier to install and more stable than
a single, tall retaining wall. Construct the terraces so each wall is no higher than 3 ft.
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■ Design Considerations
If your slope exceeds four feet in height, create a terrace interlocking block weights up to 80 pounds each, so
effect with a series of retaining walls. Build the first you’ll want to draft some helpers regardless of the
retaining wall, then progress up the slope and build the project height. You can use cut stone rather than
next, allowing several feet between layers. The bleacher interlocking block and the project steps are the same.
effect provides shelves for plantings and reduces erosion. Both materials are durable and easy to work with.
If your retaining wall will exceed four feet in Finally, tune into potential drainage issues before
height, consider bringing in a professional to assist breaking ground. A wall can be damaged when water
with the job. The higher the wall, the more pressure— saturates the soil behind block or stone. You may
thousands of pounds—it must withstand from soil and need to dig a drainage swale in low-lying areas before
water. Also, significant walls may require a building beginning. This project includes a drain pipe to usher
permit or specially engineered design. Keep in mind, water away from the wall.
A Landscape fabric B Soil removed Original hillside
from base of hill
Gravel backfill
Extra soil
Compactable
Compactable
gravel sub-base
gravel sub-base
Original hillside
Increase the level area above the wall (A) by positioning the wall well forward from the top of the hill. Fill in behind the wall
with extra soil, which is available from sand-and-gravel companies. Keep the basic shape of your yard (B) by positioning the wall
near the top of the hillside. Use the soil removed at the base of the hill to fill in near the top of the wall.
Building Retaining Walls ▸
Backfill with crushed stone and install a perforated drain Make a stepped trench when the ends of a retaining
pipe about 6" above the bottom of the backfill. Vent the pipe wall must blend into an existing hillside. Retaining walls
to the side or bottom of the retaining wall, where runoff water often are designed so the ends curve or turn back into
can flow away from the hillside without causing erosion. the slope.
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■ How to Build a Retaining Wall Using Interlocking Block
Interlocking wall blocks do not need
Overlapping flanges
mortar. Some types are held together
with a system of overlapping flanges
that automatically set the backward
pitch (batter) as the blocks are stacked,
as shown in this project. Other types of
Crushed stone backfill blocks use fiberglass pins (inset).
First row
installed
upside down
Pins
Perforated drain pipe
Compactable
gravel sub-base
Landscape fabric
1 2 3
Excavate the hillside, if necessary. Dig out the bottom of the excavation Line the excavation with strips of
Allow 12" of space for crushed stone below ground level, so it is 6" lower than landscape fabric cut 3 ft. longer than the
backfill between the back of the wall the height of the block. For example, if planned height of the wall. Make sure all
and the hillside. Use stakes to mark you use 6"-thick block, dig down 12". seams overlap by at least 6".
the front edge of the wall. Connect the Measure down from the string to make
stakes with mason’s string, and use a sure the bottom base is level.
line level to check for level.
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4 5
Spread a 6" layer of compactable gravel over the bottom Lay the first course of block, aligning the front edges with
of the excavation as a sub-base and pack it thoroughly. A the mason’s string. (When using flanged block, place the first
rented tamping machine, or jumping jack, works better than a course upside down and backward.) Check frequently with a
hand tamper for packing the sub-base. level, and adjust, if necessary, by adding or removing sub-base
material below the blocks.
6 7
Lay the second course of block according to Make half-blocks for the corners and ends of a wall and
manufacturer’s instructions, checking to make sure the blocks use them to stagger vertical joints between courses. Score full
are level. (Lay flanged block with the flanges tight against the blocks with a circular saw and masonry blade, and then break
underlying course.) Add 3 to 4" of gravel behind the block, and the blocks along the scored line with a maul and chisel.
pack it with a hand tamper.
(continued)
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8 9
Add and tamp crushed stone, as needed, to create a slight Fill behind the wall with crushed stone, and pack it
downward pitch (about 1⁄4" of height per foot of pipe) leading thoroughly with the hand tamper. Lay the remaining courses
to the drain pipe outlet. Place the drain pipe on the crushed of block, except for the cap row, backfilling with crushed stone
stone, 6" behind the wall, with the perforations face down. and packing with the tamper as you go.
Make sure the pipe outlet is unobstructed. Lay courses of
block until the wall is about 18" above ground level, staggering
the vertical joints.
10 11
Before laying the cap block, fold the end of the landscape Apply landscape construction adhesive to the top course
fabric over the crushed stone backfill. Add a thin layer of of block, and then lay the cap block. Use topsoil to fill in behind
topsoil over the fabric, and then pack it thoroughly with a the wall and to fill in the base at the front of the wall. Install
hand tamper. Fold any excess landscape fabric back over the sod or plants as desired.
tamped soil.
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■ How to Add a Curve to an Interlocking Block Retaining Wall
1 2
Right angle
Outline the curve by first driving a stake at each end and Excavate for the wall section, following the curved layout
then driving another stake at the point where lines extended line. To install the first course of landscape blocks, turn them
from the first stakes would form a right angle. Tie a mason’s upside down and backwards and align them with the radius
string to the right-angle stake, extended to match the distance curve. Use a 4-ft. level to ensure the blocks sit level and are
to the other two stakes, establishing the radius of the curve. properly placed.
Mark the curve by swinging flour or spray paint at the string
end, like a compass.
3 4
Install subsequent courses so the overlapping flange sits flush against the back Use half blocks or cut blocks to create
of the blocks in the course below. As you install each course, the radius will change finished ends on open ends of the wall.
because of the backwards pitch of the wall, affecting the layout of the courses. Where
necessary, trim blocks to size. Install using landscape construction adhesive, taking
care to maintain the running bond.
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Stone Retaining Wall
R ough-cut wall stones may be dry stacked (without
mortar) into retaining walls, garden walls, and
other stonescape features. Dry-stack walls are able to
Drainage gravel can help keep the soil from turning to
mud, which will slump and press against the wall.
The same basic techniques used to stack natural
move and shift with the frost, and they also drain well stone in a retaining wall may be used for building a
so they don’t require deep footings and drainage tiles. short garden wall as well. Obviously, there is no need
Unlike fieldstone and boulder walls, short wall-stone for drainage allowances or wall returns in a garden
walls can be just a single stone thick. wall. Simply prepare a base similar to the one shown
In the project featured here, we use rough-split here and begin stacking. The wall will look best if it
limestone blocks about eight by four inches thick and wanders and meanders a bit. Unless you’re building a
in varying lengths. Walls like this may be built up to very short wall (less than 18 inches), use two parallel
three feet tall, but keep them shorter if you can, to courses that lean against one another for the basic
be safe. Building multiple short walls is often a more construction. Cap it with flat capstones that run the
effective way to manage a slope than to build one full width of the wall (see page 144).
taller wall. Called terracing, this practice requires
some planning. Ideally, the flat ground between pairs
of walls will be approximately the uniform size.
A dry-laid natural stone retaining wall is a very Tools & Materials ▸
organic-looking structure compared to interlocking
block retaining walls (see page 134). One way to Goggles Garden rake
exploit the natural look is to plant some of your Gloves Torpedo level
favorite stone-garden perennials in the joints as you Steel-toe boots Straight 2 × 4
build the wall(s). Usually one plant or a cluster of Mattock with pick Hand tamper
three will add interest to a wall without suffocating Hatchet or loppers Compactable gravel
it in vegetation or compromising its stability. Avoid Spades Ashlar wall stone
plants that get very large or develop thick, woody Measuring tape Drainage gravel
roots or stems that may compromise the stability of Mason’s string Landscape fabric
the wall. Line level Block-and-stone adhesive
A well-built retaining wall has a slight lean, called Stakes Caulk gun
a batter, back into the slope. It has a solid base and Hand maul
the bottom course is dug in behind the lower terrace.
A natural stone retaining wall not only adds a stunning framework to your landscape, but it also lends a practical hand to
prevent hillsides and slopes from deteriorating over time.
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Document name
Page 189.eps
Artist Date Initials D
04/16/2010
Accurate Art, Inc.
Check if revision CE's review
BxW 2/C 4/C O
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
■ Cross Sections: Stone Retaining Walls 32w x 37d Initials D
Wall blocks (ashlar)
Batter
Backfill
Original slope
Drainage gravel
Landscape fabric Setback
Sand
Compacted gravel
Original slope
Retaining wall
Return wall
Compacted base
A stone retaining wall breaks up a slope to neat flat lawn areas that are more usable (top). A series of walls and terraces
(bottom) break up larger slopes. Short return walls (inset) create transitions to the yard.
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■ How to How to Build a Stone Retaining Wall
1 2
Dig into the slope to create a trench for the first wall. Level the bottom of the trench and measure to make sure
Reserve the soil you remove nearby—you’ll want to backfill you’ve excavated deeply enough.
with it when the wall is done.
3 4
After compacting a base, cover the trench and hill slope Place the first course of stones in rough position. Run a
with landscape fabric, and then pour and level a 1" layer of level mason’s string at the average height of the stones.
coarse sand.
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5 6
Add or remove gravel under each stone to bring the front Begin the second course with a longer stone on each end
edges level with the mason’s string. so the vertical gaps between stones are staggered over the
first course.
7 8
Finish out the second course. Use shards and chips of Finish setting the return stones in the second course,
stone as shims where needed to stabilize the stones. Check making adjustments as needed for the return to be level.
to make sure the ½" setback is followed.
(continued)
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9 10
Backfill behind the wall with river rock or another good Fold the landscape fabric over the drainage rock (the
drainage rock. main job of the fabric is to keep soil from migrating into the
drainage rock and out the wall) and backfill behind it with soil
to level the ground.
11 12
Trim the landscape fabric just behind the back of the wall, Finish the wall by capping it off with some of your nicer, long
near the top. flat stones. Bond them with block-and-stone adhesive.
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13
Level off the soil behind the wall with a garden rake. Add additional walls if you are terracing.
Planting Your Retaining Wall ▸
Natural stone retaining walls look
quite lovely in their own right.
However, you can enhance the effect
by making some well-chosen planting
choices for the wall itself. You can
plan for this in the wall construction
by leaving an extra wide gap between
two stones in one of the courses
and then planting in the gap. Or you
can replace a stone in the wall with
a shorter one, also creating a gap. To
plant a gap, cut the fabric and set a
good-size, bare-root perennial of an
appropriate species to the bottom of
this joint. Fan out the roots over the
soil and use sphagnum moss to plug
up the gaps in the wall around plants.
Adhere the stone in the next course
that bridges the gap with block-and-
stone adhesive. Keep plants well
watered until established. Eventually,
the plant roots will hold the soil Set plants in natural-looking clusters of the same species. Do not
instead of the moss. suffocate the wall with too many plants.
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Drystack Stone Wall
S tone walls are beautiful, long-lasting structures that
are surprisingly easy to build provided you plan
carefully. A low stone wall can be constructed without
shape some of the stones to achieve consistent spacing
and a general appearance that appeals to you.
To shape a stone, score it using a circular saw
mortar using a centuries-old method known as dry laying. outfitted with a masonry blade. Place a mason’s chisel on
With this technique, the wall is actually formed by two the score line and strike with a maul until the stone breaks.
separate stacks that lean together slightly. The position Wear safety glasses when using stonecutting tools.
and weight of the two stacks support each other, forming
a single, sturdy wall. A dry stone wall can be built to any
length, but its width must be at least half of its height.
You can purchase stone for this project from a quarry Tools & Materials ▸
or stone supplier, where different sizes, shapes, and
colors of stone are sold, priced by the ton. The quarry or Mason’s string and stakes Trowel
stone center can also sell you Type M mortar—necessary Compactable gravel Stiff-bristle brush
for bonding the capstones to the top of the wall. Ashlar stone Work gloves
Building dry stone walls requires patience and Capstones Protective footwear
a fair amount of physical effort. The stones must be Mortar mix
sorted by size and shape. You’ll probably also need to
It is easiest to build a dry stone wall with ashlar—stone that has been split into roughly rectangular blocks. Ashlar stone is
stacked in the same running-bond pattern used in brick wall construction; each stone overlaps a joint in the previous course. This
technique avoids long vertical joints, resulting in a wall that is attractive and also strong.
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■ How to Build a Dry Stone Wall
1 2 3
Lay out the wall site using stakes and Select appropriate stones and lay the Lay the next course, staggering the
mason’s string. Dig a 6"-deep trench first course. Place pairs of stones side by joints. Use pairs of stones of varying
that extends 6" beyond the wall on all side, flush with the edges of the trench lengths to offset the center joint.
sides. Add a 4" crushed stone sub-base and sloping toward the center. Use stones Alternate stone length, and keep the
to the trench, creating a ”V” shape by of similar height; position uneven sides height even, stacking pairs of thin stones
sloping the sub-base so the center is face down. Fill any gaps between the if necessary to maintain consistent
about 2" deeper than the edges. shaping stones with small filler stones. height. Place filler stones in the gaps.
4 5
Tie stones
Every other course, place a tie stone every 3 ft. You Mortar the capstones to the top of the wall, keeping the
may need to split the tie stones to length. Check the wall mortar at least 6" from the edges so it’s not visible. Push the
periodically for level. capstones together and mortar the cracks in between. Brush
off dried excess mortar with a stiff-bristle brush.
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Mortared Stone Wall
T he mortared stone wall is a classic that brings
structure and appeal to any yard or garden. Square-
hewn ashlar and bluestone are the easiest to build
Laying a mortared stone wall is labor-intensive but
satisfying work. Make sure to work safely and enlist
friends to help with the heavy lifting.
with, though fieldstone and rubble also work well and
make attractive walls.
Because the mortar turns the wall into a
monolithic structure that can crack and heave with a Tools & Materials ▸
freeze-thaw cycle, a concrete footing is required for a
mortared stone wall. To maintain strength in the wall, Tape measure Concrete materials
use the heaviest, thickest stones for the base of the Pencil for foundation
wall and thinner, flatter stones for the cap. Chalk line Ashlar stone
As you plan the wall layout, install tie stones— Small whisk broom Type N or
stones that span the width of the wall (page Tools for mixing mortar Type S mortar
147)—about every three feet, staggered through the Maul Stakes and
courses both vertically and horizontally throughout Stone chisel mason’s line
the wall. Use the squarest, flattest stones to build Pitching chisel Scrap wood
the “leads,” or ends of the wall first, and then fill the Trowel Muriatic acid
middle courses. Plan for joints around one inch thick Jointing tool Bucket of water
and make sure joints in successive courses do not Line level Sponge
line up. Follow this rule of thumb: Cover joints below Sponge Eye protection
with a full stone above; locate joints above over a full Garden hose and work gloves
stone below.
A mortared stone wall made from ashlar adds structure and classic appeal to your home landscape. Plan carefully and enlist
help to ease the building process.
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■ How to Build a Mortared Stone Wall
1 2
Pour a footing for the wall and allow it to cure for one Dry-lay the entire first course. Starting with a tie stone at
week. Measure and mark the wall location so it is centered on each end, arrange stones in two rows along the chalk lines
the footing. Snap chalk lines along the length of the footing for with joints about 1" thick. Use smaller stones to fill the center
both the front and the back faces of the wall. Lay out corners of the wall. Use larger, heavier stones in the base and lower
using the 3-4-5 right angle method. courses. Place additional tie stones approximately every 3 ft.
Trim stones as needed.
3 4
Mix a stiff batch of Type N or Type S mortar, following the Firmly press the first tie stone into the mortar so it is
manufacturer’s directions (pages 18 to 19). Starting at an end or aligned with the chalk lines and relatively level. Tap the top of
corner, set aside some of the stone and brush off the foundation. the stone with the handle of the trowel to set it. Continue to
Spread an even, 2" thick layer of mortar onto the foundation, lay stones along each chalk line, working to the opposite end
about 1⁄2" from the chalk lines—the mortar will squeeze out of the wall.
a little.
(continued)
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5 6
After installing the entire first course, As you work, rake the joints using a Variation: You can also tool joints for
fill voids along the center of the wall scrap of wood to a depth of 1⁄2"; raking a cleaner, tighter mortared joint. Tool
that are larger than 2" with smaller joints highlights the stones rather than the joints when your thumb can leave an
rubble. Fill the remaining spaces and mortared joints. After raking, use a whisk imprint in the mortar without removing
joints with mortar, using the trowel. broom to even the mortar in the joints. any of it.
7 8
Drive stakes at the each end of the wall and align a If heavy stones push out too much mortar, use wood
mason’s line with the face of the wall. Use a line level to level wedges cut from scrap to hold the stone in place. Once the
the string at the height of the next course. Build up each end mortar sets up, remove the wedges and fill the voids with
of the wall, called the “leads,” making sure to stagger the joints fresh mortar.
between courses. Check the leads with a 4-ft. level on each
wall face to make sure it is plumb.
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Removing Mortar ▸ 9
Have a bucket of water and a sponge handy Fill the middle courses between the leads by first dry
in case mortar oozes or spills onto the face of the laying stones for placement and then mortaring them in
stone. Wipe mortar away immediately before it place. Install tie stones about every 3 ft., both vertically and
can harden. horizontally, staggering their position in each course. Make
sure joints in successive courses do not fall in alignment.
10 11
Install cap stones by pressing flat stones that span the width Allow the wall to cure for one week, and then clean it using
of the wall into a mortar bed. Do not rake the joints, but clean a solution of 1 part muriatic acid and 10 parts water. Wet the
off excess mortar with the trowel and clean excess mortar wall using a garden hose, apply the acid solution, and then
from the surface of the stones using a damp sponge. immediately rinse with plenty of clean, clear water. Always
wear goggles, long sleeves and pants, and heavy rubber
gloves when using acids.
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Repairing a Stone Wall
D amage to stonework is typically caused by frost
heave, erosion or deterioration of mortar, or by
stones that have worked out of place. Dry-stone walls
are more susceptible to erosion and popping while
mortared walls develop cracks that admit water, which
can freeze and cause further damage.
Inspect stone structures once a year for signs of
damage and deterioration. Replacing a stone or repointing
crumbling mortar now will save you work in the long run.
A leaning stone column or wall probably suffers
from erosion or foundation problems and can be
dangerous if neglected. If you have the time, you can
tear down and rebuild dry-laid structures, but mortared
structures with excessive lean need professional help.
Tools & Materials ▸
Maul Masonry chisels
Chisel Wood shims
Camera Carpet-covered
Shovel 2×4
Hand tamper Chalk
Level Compactable gravel
Batter gauge Replacement stones
Stiff-bristle brush Type M mortar
Trowels for mixing Mortar tint
and pointing Eye protection Stones in a wall can become dislodged due to soil settling,
Mortar bag Work gloves erosion, or seasonal freeze-thaw cycles. Make the necessary
repairs before the problem migrates to other areas.
Repairing Popped Stones ▸
Return a popped stone to its original position. If other Use a 2 × 4 covered with carpet to avoid damaging the
stones have settled in its place, drive shims between stone when hammering it into place. After hammering,
neighboring stones to make room for the popped stone. make sure a replacement stone hasn’t damaged or
Be careful not to wedge too far. dislodged the adjoining stones.
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■ How to Rebuild a Dry-stone Wall Section
1 2
Study the wall and determine how much of it needs to be Capstones are often set in a mortar bed atop the last
rebuilt. Plan to dismantle the wall in a V shape, centered on the course of stone. You may need to chip out the mortar with a
damaged section. Number each stone and mark its orientation maul and chisel to remove the capstones. Remove the marked
with chalk so you can rebuild it following the original design. stones, taking care to check the overall stability of the wall as
Tip: Photograph the wall, making sure the markings are visible. you work.
3 Erosion ▸
Rebuild the wall, one course at a time, using replacement
stones only when necessary. Start each course at the ends and If you’re rebuilding because of erosion, dig a
work toward the center. On thick walls, set the face stones first, trench at least 6" deep under the damaged area, and
and then fill in the center with smaller stones. Check your work fill it with compactable gravel. Tamp the gravel with a
with a level and use a batter gauge to maintain the batter of hand tamper. This will improve drainage and prevent
the wall. If your capstones were mortared, re-lay them in fresh water from washing soil out from beneath the wall.
mortar. Wash off the chalk with water and a stiff-bristle brush.
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■ Tips for Repairing Mortared Stone Walls
Tint mortar for repair work so it blends with the existing Use a mortar bag to restore weathered and damaged mortar
mortar. Mix several samples of mortar, adding a different joints over an entire structure. Remove loose mortar (see
amount of tint to each and allow them to dry thoroughly. below) and clean all surfaces with a stiff-bristle brush and
Compare each sample to the old mortar and choose the water. Dampen the joints before tuck-pointing and cover all of
closest match. the joints, smoothing and brushing as necessary.
■ How to Repoint Mortar Joints
1 2
Carefully rake out cracked and crumbling mortar, stopping Mix Type M mortar, and then dampen the repair surfaces
when you reach solid mortar. Remove loose mortar and debris with clean water. Working from the top down, pack mortar into
with a stiff-bristle brush. Tip: Rake the joints with a chisel the crevices using a pointing trowel. Smooth the mortar when
and maul or make your own raking tool by placing an old it has set up enough to resist light finger pressure. Remove
screwdriver in a vise and bending the shaft about 45º. excess mortar with a stiff-bristle brush.
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■ How to Replace a Mortared Stone Wall
1 2
Remove the damaged stone by chiseling out the Brush out the cavity to remove loose mortar and debris. Test
surrounding mortar using a masonry chisel or a modified the surrounding mortar and chisel or scrape out any mortar
screwdriver (opposite page). Drive the chisel toward the that isn’t firmly bonded.
damaged stone to avoid harming neighboring stones. Once the
stone is out, chisel the surfaces inside the cavity as smooth
as possible.
3 4
Dry-fit the replacement stone. The stone should be stable Mist the stone and cavity lightly, and then apply Type M
in the cavity and blend with the rest of the wall. You can mark mortar around the inside of the cavity using a trowel. Butter
the stone with chalk and cut it to fit, but excessive cutting will all mating sides of the replacement stone. Insert the stone and
result in a conspicuous repair. wiggle it forcefully to remove any air pockets. Use a pointing
trowel to pack the mortar solidly around the stone. Smooth the
mortar when it has set up.
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Loose Rock Landscape Path
L oose-fill gravel pathways are perfect for stone
gardens, casual yards, and other situations where
a hard surface is not required. The material is
debris that will be difficult to remove from the gravel.
Organic matter left on gravel paths will eventually rot
into compost that will support weed growth.
inexpensive, and its fluidity accommodates curves and A base of compactable gravel under the surface
irregular edging. Since gravel may be made from any material keeps the pathway firm underfoot. For best
rock, gravel paths may be matched to larger stones in results, embed the surface gravel material into the
the environment, tying them in to your landscaping. paver base with a plate compactor. This prevents the
The gravel you choose need not be restricted to stone, base from showing through if the gravel at the surface
either. Industrial and agricultural byproducts, such as is disturbed. An underlayment of landscape fabric
cinder and ashes, walnut shells, seashells, and ceramic helps stabilize the pathway and blocks weeds, but if
fragments may also be used as path material. you don’t mind pulling an occasional dandelion and
For a more stable path, choose angular or jagged are building on firm soil, it can be omitted.
gravel over rounded materials. However, if your
preference is to stroll throughout your landscape
barefoot, your feet will be better served with smoother
stones, such as river rock or pond pebbles. With Tools & Materials ▸
stone, look for a crushed product in the 1⁄4 to 3⁄4" range.
Angular or smooth, stones smaller than that can be Mason’s string Edging
tracked into the house, while larger materials are Hose or rope Spikes
uncomfortable and potentially hazardous to walk on. Marking paint Professional-grade
If it complements your landscaping, use light-colored Excavation tools landscape fabric
gravel, such as buff limestone. Visually, it is much Garden rake Compactable gravel
easier to follow a light pathway at night because it Plate compactor Dressed gravel
reflects more moonlight. Sod stripper or Eye and ear
Stable edging helps keep the pathway gravel from power sod cutter protection
migrating into the surrounding mulch and soil. When Wood stakes Work gloves
integrated with landscape fabric, the edge keeps Lumber (1 × 2, Circular saw
invasive perennials and trees from sending roots and 2 × 4) Maul
shoots into the path. Do not use gravel paths near plants Straight 2 × 4
and trees that produce messy fruits, seeds, or other
■ Construction Details
Staked metal edging 2+ inches of gravel forms the walking surface
separates dirt
from gravel
Grade Grade
Landscape fabric overlaps 2+ inches of paver base
edging to keep out roots forms a bed for the
and rhizomes walking surface
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Loose materials can be used as filler between solid surface materials, like flagstone, or laid as the primary ground cover, as
shown here.
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Make a Spacer Gauge ▸
To ensure that the edges of the pathway are exactly parallel, create a spacer bar and use it as a guide to install
the edging. Start with a piece of 2 × 4 that’s a bit longer than the path width. Near one end, cut a notch that will fit snugly
over the edging. Trim the spacer so the distance from the notch to the other end is the planned width of the pathway.
■ How to Create a Gravel Pathway
1 2
Lay out one edge of the path excavation. Use a section of Remove sod in the walkway area using a sod stripper or
hose or rope to create curves, and use stakes and string to a power sod cutter (see option, at right). Excavate the soil to a
indicate straight sections. Cut 1 × 2 spacers to set the path depth of 4 to 6". Measure down from a 2 × 4 placed across the
width and establish the second pathway edge; use another path bed to fine-tune the excavation. Grade the bottom of
hose and/or more stakes and string to lay out the other edge. the excavation flat using a garden rake. Note: If mulch will be
Mark both edges with marking paint. used outside the path, make the excavation shallower by the
depth of the mulch. Compact the soil with a plate compactor.
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3
Option: Use a power sod cutter to strip grass from your Lay landscaping fabric from edge to edge, lapping over
pathway site. Available at most rental centers and large home the undisturbed ground on either side of the path. On straight
centers, sod cutters excavate to a very even depth. The cut sections, you may be able to run parallel to the path with
sod can be replanted in other parts of your lawn. a single strip; on curved paths, it’s easier to lay the fabric
perpendicular to the path. Overlap all seams by 6".
4 5
Install edging over the fabric. Shim the edging with small Stone or vertical-brick edges may be set in deeper
stones, if necessary, so the top edge is 1⁄2" above grade (if the trenches at the sides of the path. Place these on top of the
path passes through grass) or 2" above grade (if it passes fabric also. You do not have to use additional edging with
through a mulched area). Secure the edging with spikes. To paver edging, but metal (or other) edging will keep the pavers
install the second edge, use a 2 × 4 spacer gauge that’s been from wandering.
notched to fit over your edging (see facing page).
(continued)
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6 7
Trim excess fabric, then backfill behind the edging with Add a 2- to 4"-thick layer of compactable gravel over the
dirt and tamp it down carefully with the end of a 2 × 4. This entire pathway. Rake the gravel flat. Then, spread a thin layer of
secures the edging and helps it to maintain its shape. your surface material over the base gravel.
8
Tamp the base and surface gravel together using a plate compactor. Be careful not to disturb or damage the edging with
the compactor.
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9 10
Fill in the pathway with the remaining surface gravel. Drag a Set the edging brick flush with the gravel using a mallet
2 × 4 across the tops of the edging using a sawing motion, to and 2 × 4.
level the gravel flush with the edging.
11 12
Tamp the surface again using the plate compactor or a Rinse off the pathway with a hose to wash off dirt and
hand tamper. Compact the gravel so it is slightly below the dust and bring out the true colors of the materials.
top of the edging. This will help keep the gravel from migrating
out of the path.
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Stepping Stone Landscape Path
A stepping stone path is both a practical and
appealing way to traverse a landscape. With large
stones as foot landings, you are free to use pretty much
In the project featured here, landscape edging
is used to contain the loose infill material (small
aggregate), however a stepping stone path can also
any type of fill material in between. You could even be effective without edging. For example, setting a
place stepping stones on individual footings over ponds series of steppers directly into your lawn and letting
and streams, making water the temporary infill that the lawn grass grow between them is a great choice
surrounds the stones. The infill does not need to follow as well.
a narrow path bed, either. Steppers can be used to cross
a broad expanse of gravel, such as a Zen gravel panel or
a smaller graveled opening in an alpine rock garden.
Stepping stones in a path serve two purposes: Tools & Materials ▸
they lead the eye, and they carry the traveler. In both
cases, the goal is rarely fast, direct transport, but more Mason’s string Thick steppers or
of a relaxing stroll that’s comfortable, slow-paced, and Hose or rope broad river rocks
above all, natural. Arrange the stepping stones in your Marking paint with one flat face
walking path according to the gaits and strides of the Sod stripper ¼ to ½" pond
people that are most likely to use the pathway. Keep in Excavation tools pebbles
mind that our gaits tend to be longer on a utility path Hand tamp 2½"-dia. river rock
than in a rock garden. Wood stakes Eye and ear
Sometimes steppers are placed more for visual 1 × 2 lumber protection
effect, with the knowledge that they will break the Straight 2 × 4 Work gloves
pacing rule with artful clusters of stones. Clustering Edging Level
is also an effective way to slow or congregate walkers Landscape fabric Rake
near a fork in the path or at a good vantage point for a Coarse sand
striking feature of the garden.
Choosing Steppers ▸
Select beefy stones (minimum
2½ to 3½" thick) with at
least one flat side. Thinner
Fieldstone with a flat face
stepping stones tend to
sink into the pebble infill.
Stones that are described
as stepping stones usually
have two flat faces. For the
desired visual effect on this
project, we chose steppers
and 12 to 24" wide fieldstones
with one broad, flat face (the
rounded face is buried in the
ground, naturally).
Steppers
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Stepping stones blend beautifully into many types of landscaping, including rock gardens, ponds, flower or vegetable gardens, or
manicured grass lawns.
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■ How to Make a Pebbled Stepping Stone Path
Excavate and prepare a bed for the
1 path as you would for the gravel pathway
(see pages 158 to 159), but use coarse
building sand instead of compactable
gravel for the base layer. Screed the
sand flat so it’s 2" below the top of the
edging. Do not tamp the sand. Tip: Low-
profile plastic landscape edging is a good
choice because it does not compete with
the pathway.
Moisten the sand bed, then position the
2 stepping stones in the sand, spacing them
for comfortable walking and the desired
appearance. As you work, place a 2 × 4
across three adjacent stones to make
sure they are even with one another. Add
or remove sand beneath the steppers, as
needed, to stabilize and level the stones.
Pour in a layer of larger infill stones
3 (2"-dia. river rock is seen here). Smooth
the stones with a garden rake. The infill
should be below the tops of the stepping
stones. Reserve about 1⁄3 of the larger
diameter rocks.
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4 5
Add the smaller infill stones, that will migrate down and Scatter the remaining large infill stones across the
fill in around the larger infill rocks. To help settle the rocks, infill area so they float on top of the other stones. Eventually,
you can tamp lightly with a hand tamper, but don’t get too they will sink down lower in the pathway and you will
aggressive—the larger rocks might fracture easily. need to lift and replace them selectively to maintain the
original appearance.
■ Variations
Move from a formal space to a less orderly area of your Combine concrete stepping pavers with crushed
landscape by creating a pathway that begins with closely rock or other small stones for a path with a cleaner, more
spaced steppers on the formal end and gradually transforms contemporary look. Follow the same basic techniques used
into a mostly-gravel path on the casual end, with only on these two pages, setting the pavers first, then filling in-
occasional clusters of steppers. between with the desired infill material(s).
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Timber & Gravel Landscape Steps
T imberframed steps provide a delightfully simple
and structurally satisfying way to manage slopes.
They are usually designed with shallow steps that have
of the slope, while concrete-filled steps are anchored
at the base with long sections of pipe driven into
the ground.
long runs and large tread areas, that can be filled with Designing steps is an important part of the
a variety of materials. One popular method is gravel, process. Determine the total rise and run of the hill
shown here. Other tread surfaces you might consider and translate this into a step size that conforms to this
are bricks, cobbles, stepping stones, or poured formula: 2× (rise) + run = 26". Your step rise will equal
concrete. Even large flagstones can be cut to fit the your timber width, that can range from approximately
tread openings. 31⁄2" (for 4 × 4 timbers or 4 × 6 on the flat) to 71⁄4" or
Timber steps needn’t follow the straight and 71⁄2" (for 8 × 8 timbers). As with any steps, be sure to
narrow, either. You can vary the lengths of the left keep the step size consistent so people don’t trip.
and right returns to create swooping helical steps that
suggest spiral staircases. Or, increase the length of
both returns to create a broad landing on which to set
pots or accommodate a natural flattening of the slope. Tools & Materials ▸
Want to soften the steps? Use soil as a base near the
sides of the steps and plant herbs or ground cover. Or Marking paint Drill and 3⁄8" bit
for a spring surprise, plant daffodils under a light pea Mason’s string with long shaft
gravel top dressing at the edges of the steps. Level Wood stakes
Timber steps don’t require a frost footing, because Excavation tools Compactable gravel
the wooden joints flex with the earth rather than crack Hand tamp 2 × 4 lumber
like solid concrete steps would. However, it’s a good Circular saw Landscape timbers
idea to include some underground anchoring to keep Speed square 3
⁄8" landscape spikes
loose muddy soil from pushing the steps forward. Framing square Gravel
To provide longterm stability, the gravel-filled steps Sledgehammer
shown here are secured to a timber cleat at the base
Here we use gravel (small aggregate river rock), a common surface for paths and rock gardens, for the tread surfaces. Other
tread surfaces include bricks, cobbles, and stepping stones. Even large flagstones can be fit to the tread openings.
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■ Construction Details
Path edged and graded
to meet top riser
Top tread integral with
path, no returns used
Total run
Total rise
Step rise
Step run
Top of cleat
even with Returns
finished
height of Cleat
path
Edge banding with stakes
■ How to Build Timber & Gravel Landscape Steps
1 2
Install and level the timber cleat: mark the outline of the Create trenches filled with tamped gravel for the returns
steps onto the ground using marking paint. Dig a trench for (the timbers running back into the hill, perpendicular to the
the cleat at the base of the steps. Add 2 to 4" of compactable cleat and risers). The returns should be long enough to anchor
gravel in the trench and compact it with a hand tamp. Cut the the riser and returns of the step above. Dig trenches back into
cleat to length and set it into the trench. Add or remove gravel the hill for the returns and compact 2 to 4" of gravel into the
beneath the cleat so it is level and its top is even with the trenches so each return will sit level on the cleat and gravel.
surrounding ground or path surface.
(continued)
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Cutting Timbers ▸ 3
Large landscape timbers (6 × 6" and bigger) can be
cut accurately and squarely with a circular saw, even
though the saw’s cutting capacity isn’t big enough
to do the job completely. First, draw cutting lines on
all four sides of the timber using a speed square as
guide. Next, cut along the line on all four sides with
the saw set for maximum blade depth. Finally, use a Cut and position the returns and the first riser. Using
hand saw to finish the cut. For most DIYers, this will a 2 × 4 as a level extender, check to see if the backs of the
yield a straighter cut than saws that can make the cut returns are level with each other and adjust by adding or
in one pass, such as a reciprocating saw. removing gravel in the trenches. Drill four 3⁄8"-dia. holes and
fasten the first riser and the two returns to the cleat with spikes.
4 5
Excavate and add tamped gravel for the second set of Build the remaining steps in the same fashion. As you
returns. Cut and position the second riser across the ends of work, it may be necessary to alter the slope with additional
the first returns, leaving the correct unit run between the riser excavating or backfilling (few natural hills follow a uniform
faces. Note that only the first riser doesn’t span the full width slope). Add or remove soil as needed along the sides of the
of the steps. Cut and position the returns, check for level, steps so that the returns are exposed roughly equally on
then pre-drill and spike the second riser and returns to the both sides. Also, each tread should always be higher than the
returns below. neighboring ground.
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6 7
Install the final riser. Typically, the last timber does not have Lay and tamp a base of compactable gravel in each step
returns because its tread surface is integral with the path or tread area. Use a 2 × 4 as a tamper. For proper compaction,
surrounding ground. The top of this timber should be slightly tamp the gravel in 2" or thinner layers before adding more.
higher than the ground. As an alternative, you can use returns Leave about 2" of space in each tread for the surface material.
to contain pathway material at the top of the steps.
8 9
Fill up the tread areas with gravel or other appropriate Create or improve pathways at the top and bottom of the
material. Irregular crushed gravel offers maximum surface steps. For a nice effect, build a loose-fill walkway using the
stability, while smooth stones, like the river rock seen here, same type of gravel that you used for the steps. Install a railing,
blend into the environment more naturally and feel better if desired or if required by the local building code.
underfoot than crushed gravel and stone.
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Flagstone Landscape Steps
F lagstone steps are perfect structures for
managing natural slopes. Our design consists
of broad flagstone treads and blocky ashlar risers,
terraced patios. The goal, once you have the stock in
hand, is to create a tread surface with as few stones
as possible. This generally means you’ll be doing
commonly sold as wall stone. The risers are prepared quite a bit of cutting to get the irregular shapes to fit
with compactable gravel beds on which the flagstone together. For a more formal look, cut the flagstones
treads rest. For the project featured here, we along straight lines so they fit together with small,
purchased both the flagstone and the wall stone regularAuthor
gaps. ISBN # Author's review
Masonry & Stonework 0781760607 (if needed)
in their natural split state (as opposed to sawn).
Document name OK Correx
It may seem like overkill, but you should plan on
purchasing 40 percent more flagstone, by square Page 207.eps
Initials Date
foot coverage, than your plans say you need. The Tools
Artist
& Materials
Accurate Art, Inc.
Date
▸05/21/2010
process of fitting the stones together involves a lot Check if revision CE's review
of cutting and waste. Tape
B x Wmeasure2/C 4/C Compactable gravel OK Correx
The average height of your risers is defined by the Mason’s string Wall stone
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
height of the wall stone available to you. These rough Marking paint Flagstone Initials Date
32w x 37d
stones are separated and sold in a range of thicknesses Line level Stone chisels
(such as 3 to 4"), but hand-picking the stones helps Torpedo level Stone and block
bring them into a tighter range. The more uniform 4-ft. level adhesive
the thicknesses of your blocks, the less shimming Excavation tools Rubber mallet
and adjusting you’ll have to do. (Remember, all of the Maul Eye and ear
steps must be the same size, to prevent a tripping Hand tamp protection
hazard.) You will also need to stock up on slivers of Wood stakes Work gloves
rocks to use as shims to bring your risers and returns Lumber (2 × 4, Small brush
to a consistent height; breaking and cutting your 4× 4) Spade
stone generally produces plenty of these. Straight 2 × 4 Coarse sand
Flagstone steps work best when you create the Landscape fabric
broadest possible treads: think of them as a series of
■ Construction Details
Flagstone treads
Riser stones
Riser stones
Coarse sand
Return stones
Return stones
2" Min.
Compactable gravel
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■ How to Build Flagstone Garden Steps
1 2
Measure the height and length of the slope to calculate Begin the excavation for the area under the first riser and
the rise and run dimensions for each step (see page 166 for return stones by digging a trench to accommodate a 4" layer of
help with designing and laying out steps). Plot the footprint of gravel, plus the thickness of an average flagstone tread. For the
your steps on the ground using marking paint. Purchase wall area under the back edge of the first step’s tread and the riser
stones for your risers and returns in a height equal to the rise and return stones of the second step, dig to accommodate a 4"
of your steps. Also buy flagstone (with approx. 40% overage) layer of gravel, plus a 1" layer of sand. Compact the soil with a
for the step treads. 2 × 4 or 4 × 4.
3 4
Add a layer of compactable gravel to within 1" of the Set the riser stones and one or two return stones onto the
planned height and tamp. Add a top layer of compactable gravel base. Level the riser stones side to side by adding or
gravel and level it side to side and back to front. This top layer removing gravel as needed. Level the risers front to back with
should be a flagstone’s thickness below grade. This will keep a torpedo level. Allow for a slight up-slope for the returns (the
the rise of the first step the same as the following steps. Leave steps should slope slightly downward from back to front so
the second layer of gravel uncompacted for easy adjustment the treads will drain). Seat the stones firmly in the gravel with a
of the riser and return stones. hand maul, protecting the stone with a wood block.
(continued)
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5 6
Line the excavated area for the first tread with landscape Set the second group of risers and returns. First,
fabric, draping it to cover the insides of the risers and returns. measure the step/run distance back from the face of your
Add layers of compactable gravel and tamp down to within 1" first risers and set up a level mason’s string across the sand
of the tops of the risers and returns. Fill the remainder of the bed. Position the second-step risers and returns as you did
bed with sand and level it side to side with a 2 × 4. Slope it for the first step, except these don’t need to be dug in on
slightly from back to front. This layer of sand should be a little the bottom because the bottom tread will reduce the risers’
above the first risers and returns so that the tread stones will effective height.
compact down to sit on the wall stones.
7 8
Fold the fabric over the tops of the risers and trim off the Fill in with smaller stones near the back. Cut and dress
excess. Set the flagstone treads of the first step like a puzzle, stones where necessary using stone chisels and a maul or
leaving a consistent distance between stones. Use large, heavy mason’s hammer. Finding a good arrangement takes some trial
stones with relatively straight edges at the front of the step, and error. Strive for fairly regular gaps, and avoid using small
overhanging the risers by about 2". stones as they are easily displaced. Ideally, all stones should be
at least as large as a dinner plate.
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9 10
Adjust the stones so the treads form a flat surface. Use a Shim between treads and risers with thin shards of stone.
level as a guide, and add wet sand under thinner stones or (Do not use sand to shim here). Glue the shards in place with
remove sand from beneath thicker stones until all the flags block and stone adhesive. Check each step to make sure there
come close to touching the level and are stable. is no path for sand to wash out from beneath the treads. You
can settle smaller stones in sand with a mallet, but cushion
your blows with a piece of wood.
11 12
Complete the second step in the same manner as the first. Fill the joints between stones with sand by sweeping the
The bottoms of the risers should be at the same height as sand across the treads. Use coarse, dark sand such as granite
the bottoms of the tread on the step below. Continue building sand, or choose polymeric sand, which resists washout better
steps to the top of the slope. Note: The top step often will not than regular builder’s sand. Inspect the steps regularly for the
require returns. first few weeks and make adjustments to the heights of stones
as needed.
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Zen Garden Tools & Materials ▸
Stakes Crushed granite
W hat’s commonly called a Zen garden in the West Mason’s string (light colored)
is actually a Japanese dry garden, with little Garden hose Hand maul
historical connection to Zen Buddhism. The form Landscape Manual tamper
typically consists of sparse, carefully positioned stones marking paint Landscape fabric
in a meticulously raked bed of coarse sand or fine gravel. Straight 2 × 4 Fieldstone steppers
Japanese dry gardens can be immensely satisfying. Level Specimen stones
Proponents find the uncluttered space calming and the Measuring tape Border stones
act of raking out waterlike ripples in the gravel soothing Compactable gravel Eye protection
and perhaps even healing. The fact that they are low Excavating tools and work gloves
maintenance and drought resistant is another advantage.
Site your garden on flat or barely sloped ground
away from messy trees and shrubs (and cats), as gravel
and sand are eventually spoiled by the accumulation of granite is a viable medium. Another option that is used
organic matter. There are many materials you can use as occasionally is turkey grit, a fine gravel available from
the rakable medium for the garden. Generally, lighter- farm supply outlets. In this project, we show you how to
colored, very coarse sand is preferred—it needs to be edge your garden with cast pavers set on edge, although
small enough to be raked into rills yet large enough that you may prefer to use natural stone blocks or even
the rake lines don’t settle out immediately. Crushed smooth stones in a range of four to six inches.
A Zen garden is a small rock garden, typically featuring a few large specimen stones inset into a bed of gravel. It gets its name
from the meditative benefits of raking the gravel.
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■ How to Make a Zen Garden
1 2
Lay out the garden location using stakes and string or Excavate the site and install any large specimen stones that
hoses and then mark the outline directly onto the ground with require burial more than 1⁄2 ft. below grade.
landscape paint.
3 4
Dig a trench around the border for the border stones, and lay Pour a 3" thick layer of compactable gravel into the
down landscape fabric. border trench and tamp down with a post or a hand tamper.
(continued)
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5 6
Place border blocks into the trench and adjust them so the Test different configurations of rocks in the garden to find
tops are even. an arrangement you like. If it’s a larger garden, strategically
place a few flat rocks so you can reach the entire garden with
a rake without stepping in the raking medium.
7 8
Set the stones in position on individual beds of sand about Rake the medium into pleasing patterns with a special rake
1" thick. Pour in pebbles. (see next page).
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How to Make a Zen Garden Rake ▸
Once you have constructed your Zen garden, you will use
two tools to interact with it: your eyes and a good rake.
While any garden rake will suffice for creating the swirling
and concentric rills that are hallmarks of the Zen garden,
a special rake that’s dedicated to the garden will enhance
your hands-on interaction.
Many Zen garden rakes are constructed from
bamboo. Bamboo is lightweight and readily available,
especially through Internet sites. While you can certainly
choose this material, you’re likely to find that the lightness
can actually work against it, causing you to exert more
strain to cut through the raking medium. A rake made
from solid wood has greater heft that lets it glide more
smoothly through the medium. The rake shown here is
made using only the following materials:
• 1¼"-dia. by 48" oak or pine dowel (handle)
• ½" by 36" oak or pine dowel (tines)
• 2 × 3 × 9½" piece of red oak (head)
Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3
Start by sanding all of the stock smooth using sandpaper Cut four 5"-long pieces of the ½"-dia. oak doweling for
up to 150 grit in coarseness. Soften the edges of the 2 × 3 the tines. Apply wood glue into the bottom of each hole
with the sandpaper. Drill a 1¼" dia. hole in the head for the and insert the tines, setting them by gently tapping with
handle (Figure 1). The hole should go all the way through a wood mallet (Figure 2). Then, apply glue to the handle
the head at a 22½° downward angle (half of a 45° angle), hole’s sides and insert the handle so the end protrudes all
with the top of the hole no closer than ¾" to the top of the the way through. After the glue dries, drill a ½"-dia. hole
head. Use a backer board when drilling to prevent blowout down through the top of the head and into the handle.
and splinters. Glue a ½" dowel into the hole to reinforce the handle (this
Next, drill ½"-dia. by 1"-deep seat holes for the tines is called pinning).
in the bottom edge of the blank. Locate centers of the two Finally, use a back saw, gentleman’s saw, or Japanese
end holes 1" from the ends. Measure in 2½" from each flush-cutting saw to trim the handle end and the handle pin
end hole and mark centers for the intermediate tines. Use flush with the head (Figure 3). Sand to smooth the trimmed
masking tape to mark a drilling depth of 1" on your drill ends and remove any dried glue. Finish with two or three
bit and then drill perpendicular holes at each centerline. light coats of wipe-on polyurethane tinted for red oak.
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Backyard Fire Pit
A firepit is a backyard focal point and gathering
spot. The one featured here is constructed around
a metal liner, which will keep the fire pit walls from
Tools & Materials ▸
overheating and cracking if cooled suddenly by rain Wheelbarrow Metal firepit liner
or a bucket of water. The liner here is a section of Landscape paint Compactable gravel
36-inch-diameter corrugated culvert pipe. Check local String and stakes Top-dressing rock
codes for stipulations on pit area size. Many codes Spades (trap rock)
require a 20-foot-diameter pit area. Metal pipe Wall stones
Ashlar wall stones add character to the fire pit Landscape edging Eye protection
walls, but you can use any type of stone, including Level and work gloves
cast concrete retaining wall blocks. You’ll want to prep Garden rake
the base for the seating area as you dig the fire pit to Plate vibrator
be sure both rest on the same level plane.
Some pointers to consider when using your fire pit include: 1) Make sure there are no bans or restrictions in effect;
2) Evaluate wind conditions and avoid building a fire if winds are heavy and/or blowing toward your home; 3) Keep shovels, sand,
water, and a fire extinguisher nearby; 4) Extinguish fire with water and never leave the fire pit unattended.
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■ Cross Section: Firepit
Wall blocks Liner
(ashlar or interlocking) (culvert pipe)
Nonflammable
ground cover
2"
2"
4"
Compacted gravel
■ Plan View: Firepit
Edging material contains top dressing and
assists when mowing.
Top-dressing
ground cover
(trap rock)
36"
20 ft.
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■ How to Build a Firepit
1 2 3
10 ft. radius
Outline the location for your firepit Remove a 4"-deep layer of sod and Dig a 4"-deep trench for the
and the firepit safety area by drawing dirt in the firepit and safety areas (the perimeter stones that will ring the
concentric circles with landscape paint depth of the excavation depends on pit liner.
using a string and pole for guidance. what materials you’re installing in the
safety zone.)
4 5
Fill the trench for the perimeter stones with compactable Place your metal fire ring so it is level on the gravel layer
gravel and tamp thoroughly. Then scatter gravel to within 2½" and centered around the center pipe.
of the paver edging top throughout the project area. It is not
necessary to tamp this layer at this time.
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6 7
Arrange the first course of wall blocks around the fire ring. Install the second course of retaining wall block, taking care
Keep gaps even and check with a level, adding or removing to evenly stagger the vertical joints on the first and second
gravel as needed. courses. Add the remaining courses.
8 9
Compact the compactable gravel in the seating/safety Place and compact a layer of top-dressing rock in the
area using a rental plate vibrator. seating/safety area to complete the firepit.
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Carpentry
Projects
T he structural features you’ll build in this chapter
provide the framework for your outdoor living
space. Fences promote privacy and keep critters out,
and an attractive garden shed will provide a place for
you to store tools, materials, plants, and equipment.
A cedar compost bin proves that a vessel for decaying
vegetable matter doesn’t have to be ugly.
These are all practical projects using wood.
Meanwhile, we give you some beauties that will take
your landscape a step above the rest: a sophisticated
garden bridge and cozy arbor retreat.
In this chapter:
• Gallery
• Compost Bin
• Classic Garden Bridge
• Trellis
• Bamboo Fence
• Picket Protection Fence
• Arbor Retreat
• Remote Tool Shed
■ 183
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Gallery
Lath trellis is a handy wall for creating
visual and wind screens, as well as for
hanging container plants.
An arbor and gate serves as a
formal entrance to a backyard cottage
garden. The arbor is highly hospitable
to climbing plants.
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A low, wooden bridge spans this creekbed with great elegance.
Hanging plants from this overhead arbor tie the deck visually to the rest of the backyard landscape.
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Bamboo poles are lashed together to create a fence that creates an unusual, surprising landscape effect. Bamboo is available in
preformed panels, or can be assembled by joining together random pieces, as shown here.
A cedar arbor can be left unstained or you can paint it Any shed provides extra storage for gardening tools and
to either complement or contrast with other colors in the lawn equipment. A well-designed shed also becomes an
landscape. Either way, it makes a romantic addition to your architectural accent piece for the landscape.
yard while helping to direct the traffic flow.
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An overhead arbor can be a quiet,
secluded getaway spot. Or, it can be
built front-and-center in your yard to
become a focal point.
Even the simplest gates have a welcoming effect when they are built carefully and are well maintained.
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Compost Bin
T he byproducts of routine yard maintenance can
pile up. Consider the waste generated by your
landscaping during a single year: grass clippings,
fungi, worms, and insects convert compost materials
into humus, a loamy, nutrient-rich soil. Humus is the
end goal of composting, and it can take as long as a
deadheaded blossoms, leaves, branches, and couple of years or as short as a month to produce.
weeds. All this can be recycled into compost and With the right conditions, you can speed up
incorporated back into plant beds as a nutrient-rich Mother Nature’s course and yield several helpings
soil amendment. of fresh compost for your yard each season. This is
Compost is nature’s own mulch, and it called managed composting, as opposed to passive
effectively increases soil porosity, improves fertility, composting, when you allow a pile of plant debris
and stimulates healthy root development. Besides, and such to decompose on its own. The conditions
making your own mulch or soil amendment through must be just right to manage compost and speed the
composting is much less expensive than buying process. You’ll need a balance of carbon and nitrogen,
commercial materials. Kitchen waste and yard refuse the right temperature, good air circulation, and the
are all the ingredients you need. right amount of water. By mixing, chopping materials,
So how does garbage turn into plant food? The and monitoring conditions in your compost pile, you’ll
process works like this: Organisms such as bacteria, increase your yield each season.
Tools & Materials ▸
(8) Cedar 2 × 4 U-nails (or narrow Caulk Drill/driver
(10) Cedar 1 × 2 crown staples) Circular saw Hammer
(3 × 12 ft.) Galvanized (2) 2 × 2" galvanized Table saw (optional) Pneumatic stapler
hardware cloth (½") butt hinges Power miter saw (optional)
Deck screws (3") Exterior wood glue Clamps Caulk gun
Browns and Greens ▸
A fast-burning compost pile requires a healthy balance of “browns” and “greens.” Browns are high in carbon, which is food
energy microorganisms depend on to decompose the pile. Greens are high in nitrogen, which is a protein source for the
multiplying microbes. A ratio of 3-to-1 brown-to-green materials is the best balance.
• Browns: Dry brown plant material, straw, dried brown weeds, wood chips, saw dust (used with caution)
• Greens: Grass clippings, kitchen fruit and vegetable scraps, green leaves, and manure
Note: If you use chemical lawn care products on your lawn, do not include grass clippings in your compost pile.
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Cutting List
KEy PArT NO. DIM. MATErIAL KEy PArT NO. DIM. MATErIAL
A Post 8 1½ × 1¾ × 48" Cedar K Grid frame-v 16 ¾ × 1½" × Cut to fit Cedar
B Door rail 2 1½ × 3½ × 16" " L Door frame-h 4 ¾ × 1½" × Cut to fit "
C Door rail 2 1½ × 1¾ × 16" " M Top rail-side 2 1½ × 1¾ × 39" "
D Door stile 4 1½ × 1¾ × 30½" " N Top rail-back 1 1½ × 1¾ × 32½" "
E Panel rail 3 1½ × 3½ × 32½" " O Front spreader 1 1½ × 3½ × 32½" "
F Panel rail 3 1½ × 1¾ × 32½" " Also need:
G Panel stile 3 1½ × 3½ × 30½" " ½" galvanized hardware cloth 36" by 12 ft.
H Infill 16 ¾ × 1½ × 30½" " U-nails (fence staples)
2 pairs 2 × 2" butt hinges
I Filler 80 ¾ × 1½ × 4" "
3" deck screws
J Panel grid frame-h 12 ¾ × 1½" × Cut to fit " Exterior wood glue
A A
A
A N M A
M A
F
F
F G
G
L
K
C
C K
G
I
E
E
H D
D D
D I
E
O
H K
J
B
B L
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■ How to Build a Compost Bin
1 2
Prepare the wood stock. At most building centers and lumber yards you can buy Cut the parts to length with a power
cedar sanded on all four sides, or with one face left rough. The dimensions in this miter saw or a circular saw. For uniform
project are sanded on all four sides. Prepare the wood by ripping some of the stock results, set up a stop block and cut all
into 1¾" wide strips (do this by ripping 2 × 4s down the middle on a tablesaw or with similar parts at once.
a circular saw and cutting guide).
3 4
Assemble the door frames. Apply exterior-rated wood glue Assemble the side and back panels. Clamp and glue
to the mating parts and clamp them together with pipe or bar the posts and rails for each frame, making sure the joints are
clamps. Reinforce the joints with 3" countersunk deck screws square. Then, reinforce the joints with countersunk 3" deck
(two per joint). Reinforce the bottom joints by drilling a pair screws—at least two per joint.
of ¾"-dia. × 1" deep clearance holes up through the bottom
edges of the bottom rails and driving 3" deck screws through
pilot holes up into the stiles.
(continued)
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5 6
Hang the door frames. With the posts cut to length and Join the panels and the door assembly by gluing and
oriented correctly, attach a door frame to each post with a clamping the parts together and then driving 3" countersunk
pair of galvanized butt hinges. The bottoms of the door frames deck screws to reinforce the joints. To stabilize the assembly,
should be flush with or slightly higher than the bottoms of the fasten the 2 × 4 front spreader between the front, bottom
posts. Temporarily tack a 1 × 4 brace across both door bottom edges of the side panels. Make sure the spreader will not
rails to keep the doors from swinging during construction. interfere with door operation.
7 8
Make the grids for the panel infill areas. Use 1 × 2 cedar Frame the grids with 1 × 2 strips cut to the correct length so
to make all parts (you may have to rip-cut cedar 2 × 4s for this, each frame fits neatly inside a panel or door opening. Install
depending on availability in your area. Use exterior glue and the grid frames in the openings, making sure all front edges
18-gauge brads (galvanized) to connect the horizontal filler strips are flush.
to the vertical infill pieces. Vary the heights and spacing of the filler
for visual interest and to make the ends accessible for nailing.
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9 10
Attach the top rails that conceal the post tops and help tie Line the interior surfaces of the compost bin with ½"
the panels together. Attach the sides first using exterior glue galvanized hardware cloth. Cut the hardware cloth to fit and
and galvanized finish nails. Then, install the back rail on top of fasten it with fence staple or galvanized U-nails driven every 6"
the side rails. Leave the front of the project open on top so you or so. Make sure you don’t leave any sharp edges protruding.
can load, unload, and turn over compost more easily. Grind them down with a rotary tool or a file.
Set up the bin in your location.
11 Apply a coat of exterior wood sealant
to all wood surfaces—use a product that
contains a UV inhibitor. Tip: Before setting
up your compost bin, dig a 12"-deep hole
just inside the area where the bin will be
placed. This will expand your bin’s capacity.
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Classic Garden Bridge
A n elegant garden bridge invites you into a landscape
by suggesting you stop and spend some time there.
Cross a peaceful pond, traverse an arroyo of striking
Tools & Materials ▸
natural stone, or move from one garden space to the next 4 × 4" × 8' cedar (4) Finishing materials
and explore. While a bridge is practical and functions 2 × 10" × 8' cedar (2) Jigsaw
as a way to get from point A to point B, it does so much 2 × 4" × 8' cedar (10) Circular saw
more. It adds dimension, a sense of romanticism, and 1 × 8" × 8' cedar (2) Drill
the feeling of escaping to somewhere special. 1 × 3" × 8' cedar (2)
The bridge you see here can be supported with 1 × 2" × 8' cedar (8)
handrails and trellis panels, but left simple as pictured, its
1
⁄2" × 2" × 8' cedar
Zen appeal complements projects in this book, including: lattice (2)
arroyo, garden pond, and rain garden. We think the sleek, Lag screws (3⁄8 × 4")
modern design blends well in the landscape, providing a Deck screws (2", 3")
focal point without overwhelming a space.
Unlike many landscape and garden bridges that are large, ornate, and designed to be the center of attention, this low cedar
bridge has a certain refined elegance that is a direct result of its simple design.
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Cutting List
KEy PArT DIM. PCS. MATErIAL
A Stringer 1½ × 9¼ × 96" 2 Cedar
B Stretcher 1½ × 3½ × 27" 4 "
C Tread 1½ × 3½ × 30" 26 " C
C
B A
B
A
B
B
■ Preparing Bridge Pieces
Study the cutting list carefully and take care when • Diagonal lines from these points to the top of each
measuring for cuts. The building blocks of this line to the left and right of the center
bridge are: stringers, a base, and treads. Read these
preliminary instructions carefully, then study the steps Base: Four straight boards called stretchers form
before you begin. the base that support the bridge. Before cutting these
Stringers: This first step involves cutting the pieces, mark stretcher locations on the insides of the
main structural pieces of the bridge. The stringers stringers, 1½" from the top and bottom of the stringers.
have arcs cut into their bottom edges, and the ends The outside edges of the stretchers should be 24"
of stringers are cut at a slant to create a gradual from the centers of the stringers so the inside edges
tread incline. Before you cut stringers, carefully draw are flush with the bottoms of the arcs. When working
guidelines on the wood pieces: with the stretchers, the footboard may get quite heavy,
so you will want to move the project to its final resting
• A centerline across the width of each stringer place and finish constructing the project there.
• Two lines across the width of each stringer 24" to Treads: Cut the treads to size according to the
the left and right of the centerline cutting list. Once laid on the stringers, treads will be
• Lines at the ends of each stringer, 1" up from one separated with ¼" gaps. Before you install the treads,
long edge test-fit them to be sure they are the proper size.
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■ How to Build a Garden Bridge
1 2
Use a circular saw to cut the ends of stringers along the Tack a nail on the centerline, 5¼" up from the same long
diagonal lines, according to the markings described on the edge. Also tack nails along the bottom edge, 20½" to the left
previous page. and right of the centerline.
3 4
Make a marking guide from a thin, flexible strip of scrap Use a jigsaw to make arched cut-outs in the bottoms of
wood or plastic, hook it over the center nail, and slide the ends the 2 × 10 stringers after removing the nails and marking guide.
under the outside nails to form a smooth curve. Trace along
the guide with a pencil to make the arc cutting line.
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5 6
Assemble the base by preparing stringers as described Turn the stringer assembly upside down and attach the
on facing page and positioning the stretchers between top stretchers.
them. Stand the stringers upright (curve at the bottom) and
support bottom stretchers with 1½"-thick spacer blocks for
correct spacing. Fasten stretchers between stringers with
countersunk 3" deck screws, driven through the stringers and
into the ends of the stretchers.
7 8
Attach treads after test-fitting them. Leave a ¼" gap between Sand all surfaces to smooth out any rough spots, and apply
treads. Secure them with 3"-long countersunk deck screws. an exterior wood stain to protect the wood, if desired. You
can leave the cedar untreated and it will turn gray, possibly
blending with other landscape features.
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Trellis
T he primary purpose of a trellis is to support
climbing plants such as clematis or morning
glory. But a trellis also serves as a visually pleasing
vertical design element that offers additional benefits,
including blocking sun and wind. Paired with a pergola
overhead structure, a trellis can provide a living screen
to create an intimate nook in the landscape. Or, placed
against a home or wall, a trellis adds a cottage feel
to a landscape design, allowing plantlife to scale its
wooden rungs and add green character to any space.
To be sure, a trellis is eye candy for a landscape.
But it also must be functional, and it should
accommodate the space where you want to place it
and the plants it will support. So before you dig in to
this project, think first: What is the purpose for this
trellis? What are the growing habits of the vines that
will climb the structure? Fast growers, for example,
require either a taller trellis or constant pruning. Also
consider what, if anything, you are trying to cover up
with a trellis. Perhaps it is a utility area with garbage
cans or recycling bins; maybe it is a compost area; or,
it might even be an unsightly view that is not part of
your property.
You can experiment with the trellis motif—how
cedar pieces are arranged in patterns to form the wall.
You may try diamonds, or mimic existing themes in
your garden. Trellises can be polished off with a bright
coat of white paint. If they are built with exterior-rated
lumber or even nonwood materials, they can be left
unfinished to weather naturally. Because you can buy
standard trellis material in lattice form and in a few
simple shapes at garden centers, strive for something
a little more unique if you are building the trellis
yourself. At the very least, use good sturdy stock and
exterior-rated screws to create a trellis that will last for
many growing seasons.
Tools & Materials ▸
Drill ½ × 4½" (3)
Power miter saw galvanized lag
1 × 2 × 8 ft. cedar (10) bolts w/nuts
2 × 4 × 8 ft. cedar (1) and washers A well-designed trellis supports climbing plants during the
1¼" deck screws (ss) growing season, and it also contributes to the appearance of
the yard during the offseason when the plants die back.
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Cutting List
KEy PArT PIECES DIMENSION
A Base Rail 2 ¾ × 1½ × 40"
E
B Upright-outer 2 ¾ × 1½ × 91"
C Upright-inner 2 ¾ × 1½ × 93"
D Upright-center 1 ¾ × 1½ × 89"
E H
Rail 6 ¾ × 1½ × 38"
F Filler-long 2 ¾ × 1½ × 24"
G Filler-short 2 ¾ × 1½ × 21"
H Diamond 4 ¾ × 1½ × 12"
I Base 2 1½ × 3½ × 48"
E
(all parts cedar)
G
F
G
E
C D C
B B
F
A
I
Trellis Design ▸
Sketch your trellis to scale and make a complete list of parts and sizes before you start any cutting. Choose an exterior-
rated wood, such as cedar or pressure-treated pine. If you will be painting the trellis you can use dimensional construction
lumber such as No. 2 or better pine. While treated lumber withstands the elements better, it is also more prone to twisting
and, despite the recent switch to non-arsenic base treating chemicals, many homeowners are not comfortable working
with treated lumber or using it around gardens. Choose lumber that is proportional to the scale of the project so it does
not look too flimsy or clunky. Make sure, though, that the lumber is beefy enough to hold metal fasteners. For the design
shown here, we used 1 × 2 cedar furring. The overall dimensions of the trellis (40 × 90") are large enough that 2 × 2 could
also have been used.
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■ How to Build a Trellis
1 2
Cut the uprights and rails to length from 1 × 2 stock using Lay the uprights on a flat surface with their bottoms ends
a power miter saw. If your cedar stock has one rough face and flush against a stop block and their edges touching. Draw
one smooth, arrange the cut pieces so the faces all match. reference lines across all five uprights to mark the bottom of
each rail. Measuring from the bottoms, rail marks should be at
the following distances: 3", 33", 57", 82½".
3 4
Spread the uprights apart with the bottoms remaining flush Drive a 1¼" exterior screw at each pilot hole, taking care
against the stop block. The gaps between the outer rails and to keep the uprights and rails in alignment. Tip: Stainless steel
the inner rail should be 8"; the gaps between the inner rails screws will not rust, corrode, or cause the wood to discolor.
and the center rail should be 6¼". Lay rails across the uprights Overdrive the screw slightly so the screwhead is recessed.
at the reference lines with equal overhangs at the ends. Drill a
3
⁄32" pilot hole through each rail where it crosses each upright.
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5 6
Flip the assembly over once you have driven a screw at Attach the filler strips to the front side of the trellis
each joint on the front face. Position the second set of rails according to the spacing on the diagram (page 199). Drill pilot
so their tops are flush with the first rails and their ends align. holes so the filler strips don’t split. The angled ends of the
Drill pilot holes at each joint. Offset the pilot hole by ½" so the short filler strips should be cut at 30° with a power miter saw
screws do not run into the screws driven from the other side. or miter box.
Drive screws to attach all four rails.
7 8
Make the decorative diamond appliqué. Cut four pieces lnstall the base parts. The two-part 2 × 4 base seen here
of 1 × 2 to 12" long. Then, arrange the sticks into a diamond allows the trellis to be semi-freestanding. If it is located next to
shape, with the end of each stick flush with the outer edge of a structure you probably won’t need to anchor the base to the
the adjoining one. Drill a pilot hole and drive a screw at each ground, although you can use landscape spikes or pieces of
joint. Attach the diamond shape to the top section of uprights, rebar to anchor it if you wish. Cut the base parts to length and
centered from side to side. Take care to avoid screw collisions bolt them together, sandwiching the bottom 3" of the uprights.
in the diamond legs. You can apply a UV-resistant deck finish to the wood, paint it,
or let it weather.
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Bamboo Fence
B amboo is one of nature’s best building materials.
It’s lightweight, naturally rot-resistant, and so
strong that it’s used for scaffolding in many parts of
which are rolled up for easy transport, can be used as
infill within a new wood framework, or they can attach
directly to an existing wood or metal fence. Both of
the world. It’s also a highly sustainable resource, since these popular applications are shown here. Another
many species can be harvested every three to five option is to build an all-bamboo fence using large
years without destroying the plants. Yet, perhaps the bamboo poles for the posts and stringers and roll-up
best feature of bamboo is its appearance—whether it’s panels for the infill.
lined up in orderly rows or hand-tied into decorative
patterns, bamboo fencing has an exotic, organic
quality that adds a breath of life to any setting.
Bamboo is a grass, but it shares many properties Tools & Materials ▸
with wood. It can be cut, drilled, and sanded with the
same tools, and it takes many of the same finishes, Circular saw or Deck screws
including stains and exterior sealers. And, just like reciprocating saw (3", 21⁄2", 2")
wood, bamboo is prone to splitting, though it retains Drill/driver Bamboo fence panels
much of its strength even when subject to large splits Countersink bit with 3⁄4"-dia. canes
and cracks. In general, larger-diameter poles (which Wire cutters Level
can be upwards of five inches) are more likely to split Pliers Tape measure
than smaller (such as 3⁄4-inch-diameter) canes. Post hole digger Eye and ear protection
Bamboo fencing is commonly available in eight- Lumber (4 × 4, 2 × 4, Galvanized steel wire
foot-long panels made from similarly sized canes held 1 × 4, 2 × 6) Work gloves
together with internal or external wires. The panels,
Quality bamboo for fencing isn’t hard to find, but you can’t pick it up at your local lumberyard. The best place to start shopping
is the internet (see Resources, page 235). Look for well-established suppliers who are committed to sustainable practices. Most
suppliers can ship product directly to your home.
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■ How to Build a Wood-frame Bamboo Fence
1 2
Install and trim the 4 × 4 posts according to the size of Install the top 2 × 4 stringers. Cut each stringer to fit
your bamboo panels, setting the posts in concrete. For snugly between the posts. Position the stringer on edge so it
the 6 × 8-ft. panels in this project, the posts are spaced is flush with the tops of the posts and with the back or front
100" on-center and are trimmed at 75" tall (refer to the faces of the posts. Fasten the stringer with 3" deck screws
manufacturer’s recommendations). driven through angled pilot holes. Use one screw on each edge
and one on the inside face of the stringer, at both ends.
3 4
Mark the location of each bottom stringer. The span Flatten the bamboo panels over the inside faces of
between the top of the top stringer and bottom of the bottom the stringers. Make sure the panels fit the frames on all
stringer should equal the bamboo panel height plus about 1". sides. Using a countersink-piloting bit (inset), drill a slightly
Cut and install the bottom stringers in the same fashion as countersunk pilot hole through a bamboo cane and into the
the top stringers. Here, the bottom stringer will be installed 2" stringer at a top corner of the panel. Fasten the corner with
above the ground for rot prevention. Unroll the bamboo panels. a 2" deck screw, being careful not to overtighten and split
the bamboo.
(continued)
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5 Screws 2×4
reducing Panel Length ▸
To shorten the length of a bamboo panel,
cut the wiring holding the canes together at least two
Fasten the rest of the panel with screws spaced 12" canes beyond the desired length using wire cutters.
apart. Stagger the screws top and bottom, and drive them in Remove the extra canes, and then wrap the loose
an alternating pattern, working from one side to the other. ends of wire around the last cane in the panel.
Repeat steps 4 and 5 to install the remaining bamboo panels.
6 7
Cover the top and bottom ends of Add the top cap. Center the 2 × 6 top cap boards over the posts so they overhang
the panels with 1 × 4 battens. These about 1" on either side. Fasten the caps to the posts and stringers with 3" deck
finish off the panels and give the fence screws. Use miter joints for corners, and use scarf joints (cut with opposing 30° or 45°
a similar look on both sides. Cut the bevels) to join cap boards over long runs.
battens so the ends are flush against the
inside faces of the posts and fasten them
to the panels and stringers with 21⁄2"
deck screws driven through pilot holes.
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■ How to Cover an Old Fence with Bamboo
1 2
Unroll and position a bamboo panel over one or both Fasten the panel with deck screws driven through the
sides of the existing fence. Check the panel with a level and bamboo canes (and fence siding boards, if applicable) and into
adjust as needed. For rot prevention, hold the panel 1 to 2" the fence stringers. Drill countersunk pilot holes for the screws,
above the ground. Tip: A 2 × 4 laid flat on the ground makes it being careful not to overtighten and crack the bamboo. Space
easy to prop up and level the panel. the screws 12" apart, and stagger them top and bottom (see
facing page).
3
Install the remaining bamboo panels, butting the edges Variation: To dress up a chain link fence with bamboo fencing,
together between panels for a seamless appearance. If the simply unroll the panels over the fence and secure them every
fence posts project above the stringer boards, you can cut the 12" or so with short lengths of galvanized steel wire. Tie the
bamboo panels flush with the posts. wire around the canes or the panel wiring and over the chain
link mesh.
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Picket Protection Fence
Y our landscape is a showpiece and testament to
all the hard work and time you have invested in
building, planting, and maintaining the space. But
Tools & Materials ▸
critters like deer and rabbits look at your property For setting posts:
quite differently. To them, your landscape is a Plumb bob Concrete
tempting, green buffet. One way to stop foragers from Stakes Mason’s trowel
feasting on your landscape is to keep them out of Hand maul Pressure-treated
sensitive areas—such as your garden—with fencing. Power auger or post cedar or redwood
That forager might be the family dog if he’s prone to hole digger 4 × 4 posts
digging in your favorite rose bed; or the neighborhood Shovel Scrap lengths
cat that does no harm to the garden, but you’d prefer Coarse gravel of 2 × 4
she choose another place to rest. Carpeneter’s level
Meanwhile, deer are a big problem for
many homeowners, especially in fast-developing For picket fence:
communities. Their grazing habits will destroy flower Mason’s string Speed square
beds and vegetable gardens. You’ll need special fencing Line level Eye and ear
to protect your property from deer, and it’s not always Circular saw protection
the most attractive. The best strategy is to purchase Drill Clamps
a kit, which may include a conventional 8-foot fence Power miter saw Paint brush
of woven wire. Netting will protect young shrubs and Sander Tape measure
seedlings, and tubing protects tree trunks. 2-ft. level 16d galvanized
In this project, you’ll practice basic fence- Lumber (4 × 4, common nails
building techniques to create an attractive picket 2 × 4, 1 × 4) Wood sealant
fence that will deter animals from entering your Deck screws or primer
property, and contain those you want to stay within (3½”, 2”) Work gloves
boundaries (the family dog—and yes, the kids, Finishing materials Pencil
too). Keep in mind, fences will not deter diggers Hammer
like groundhogs from invading your property. Other Finish nails
strategies include repellents and traps, depending on Spacer
the guilty critter.
The shape and size of the picket tops change from fence to fence, but the classic white picket fence is a real workhorse in our
landscapes and will never go out of style.
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■ Picket Fence Styles
Prominent post Hidden post
Highlighting the posts (left) gives the fence a sectional look, and the rhythm of the pickets is punctuated by the slower cadence
of the posts. To create this effect, mount the stringers on edge, so the pickets are flush with—or recessed from—the front faces of
the posts. Hiding the posts (right) creates an unbroken line of pickets and a somewhat less structural look overall. This effect calls
for stringers installed flush with—or over the front of—the post faces.
■ How to Build a Picket Fence
1 2
Install and trim the posts according to your plan (see pages Mark the stringer positions onto the posts. Measure
30 to 33). In this project, the pickets stand at 36" above grade, and down from each post top and make marks at 8 and 281⁄2" (or as
the posts are 38" (without the post caps). Set the posts in concrete, desired for your design). These marks represent the top edges
and space them as desired—but no more than 96" on center. of the two stringer boards for each fence section.
(continued)
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3 Calculating Picket Spacing ▸
Determine the picket quantity and spacing. Cut a few
pickets (steps 4 to 5) and experiment with different
spacing to find the desired (approximate) gap
between pickets. Calculate the precise gap dimension
and number of pickets needed for each section using
the formula shown in the example here.
Total space between posts: 92.5"
Unit size (picket width + approx. gap size):
3.5" + 1.75" = 5.25"
Number of pickets (post space ÷ unit size):
92.5" ÷ 5.25" = 17. 62 (round down for slightly
larger gaps; round up for slightly smaller gaps)
Total picket area (# of pickets × picket width):
17 × 3.5" = 59.5"
Remaining space for gaps (post space -
Install the stringers. Measure between each pair of posts, total picket area): 92.5" - 59.5" = 33"
and cut the 2 × 4 stringers to fit. Drill angled pilot holes, and
Individual gap size (total gap space ÷
fasten the stringers to the posts with 31⁄2" deck screws or 16d
galvanized common nails; drive one fastener in the bottom and (# of pickets + 1): 33" ÷ 18 = 1.83"
top edges of each stringer end.
4 5
Cut the pickets to length using a power miter saw. To save Shape the picket ends as desired. For straight-cut designs,
time, set up a stop block with the distance from the block use a miter saw with a stop block on the right side of the blade
to blade equal to the picket length. Tip: If you’re painting (the first pass cuts through the picket and the block). If the
the fence, you can save money by cutting the pickets from shape is symmetrical, such as this 90° point, cut off one corner,
12-ft.-long boards of pressure-treated lumber. In this project, and then flip the board over and make the second cut—no
the pickets are 32" long; each board yields 4 pickets. measuring or adjusting is needed.
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6
Variation: To cut pickets with decorative custom shapes, Prime or seal all surfaces of the posts, stringers, and
create a cardboard or hardboard template with the desired pickets; and then add at least one coat of finish (paint, stain, or
shape. Trace the shape onto each picket and make the cuts. sealer), as desired. This will help protect even the unexposed
Use a jigsaw for curved cuts. Gang several cut pieces together surfaces from rot.
for final shaping with a sander.
7 8 9
Set up a string line to guide the Install the pickets. Using a cleat Add the post caps. Wood post caps
picket installation. Clamp a mason’s spacer cut to the width of the picket (with or without metal cladding) offer an
string to two posts at the desired height gap, set each picket in place and drill easy way to dress up plain posts while
for the tops of the pickets. Note: To even pairs of pilot holes into each protecting the end grain from water.
help prevent rot and to facilitate grass stringer. Fasten the pickets with 2" deck Install caps with galvanized or stainless
trimming, plan to install the pickets at screws. Check the first picket (and every steel finish nails, or as directed by the
least 2" above the ground. few thereafter) for plumb with a level manufacturer. Apply the final finish coat
before piloting. or touch-ups to the entire fence.
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Arbor retreat
T he airy, sun-filtered space under an arbor
always makes you want to stay awhile—thus,
it’s a perfect place for built-in seating. The arbor
as a grand garden entrance or a landscape focal
point. For added seclusion, tuck this arbor behind
some foliage.
getaway we’ve chosen (facing page) has plenty of Sitting inside the retreat you can enjoy privacy
room for lounging or visiting, but it’s designed to and shade behind the lattice screens. The side roof
do much more: Viewed from the front, the arbor sections over the seats are lowered to follow a more
retreat becomes an elegant passageway. The bench human scale and create a cozier sense of enclosure.
seating is obscured by latticework, and your eyes Each bench comfortably fits three people and the
are drawn toward the central opening and striking two sides face each other at a range that’s ideal
horizontal beams. This makes the structure perfect for conversation.
An arbor with benches makes an ideal resting spot that
will become a destination when hiking to remote areas of
your property.
A slatted roof and lattice walls are designed to cut sun
A classic archway with a keystone motif gives this arbor and wind, creating a comfortable environment inside the
retreat its timeless appeal. arbor retreat.
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A few subtle touches turn this cedar arbor into a true standout. The arches at the tops of the sidewall panels give the design
visual lift and a touch of Oriental styling.
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Materials List
DESCrIPTION (NO. FINISHED PIECES) QuANTITy/SIzE MATErIAL
Posts
Inner posts (4) 4 @ field measure 4×4
Outer posts (4) 4 @ field measure 4×4
Concrete Field measure 3,000 PSI concrete
Gravel Field measure Compactable gravel
roof
Beams (6 main, 4 cross) 8 @ 8' 4×4
Roof slats (10 lower, 11 upper) 21 @ 8' 2×2
Seats
Seat supports, spacers, slats (6 horizontal supports, 6 vertical supports, 4 spacers, 16 slats) 16 @ 8' 2×6
Aprons (2) 2 @ 6' 1×8
Lattice Screens
Arches (4) 1 @ 8' 2×8
Slats—arched sides (20 horizontal, 8 vertical) 12 @ 8' 2×2
Slats—back (8) 8 @ 8' 2×2
Hardware & Fasteners
3
⁄8" × 7" galvanized lag screws 12, with washers
3" deck screws
3½" deck screws
2½" deck screws
¼" × 3" galvanized lag screws 16, with washers
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Front Elevation Beam End Detail
2½"
2 × 2 roof slat
1"
4 × 4 beam w/1" 1"
round-over at ends, typ.
4 × 4 cross beam w/1"
round-over at ends, typ.
1'-0"
4 × 4 cross beam w/1"
round-over at ends, typ.
4 × 4 beam w/1"
round-over at ends, typ.
Arch cut from 2 × 8
2 × 2 screen slats 6'-0"
4 × 4 post
2 × 6 seat back support beyond
2 × 6 seat support beyond
Side Elevation Post Layout
2 × 2 roof slat
8'-8"
4 × 4 beam w/1"
round-over 2'-4" 4'-0" 2'-4"
at ends, typ.
4 × 4 cross beam
w/1" round-over 4 × 4 inner post
at ends, typ.
4 × 4 outer post
2 × 2 slat
6'-0"
4 × 4 post
2 × 2 screen slats
2 × 6 back lattice
screen support
2 × 6 seat
back suppot
2 × 6 seat support
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upper Level roof Seat Framing Plan
Framing Plan
2× vertical support spacer,
typical at post locations
4 × 4 outer post
4 × 4 upper
main beam 2 × 6 seat support
1'-0"
2 × 6 seat back support
4 × 4 inner post
4 × 4 beams below
4 × 4 upper
cross beam
8'-0"
6'-7"
1'-0" 1'-0"
1'-0"
roof/Slat Plan Slat Plan @ Seating
5'-7" 3½"
5¼" typ. beam 1½"
6" 4 × 4 beam 6"
2 × 2 slats Centerline
3"
dimensions
8"
8"
2 × 2 lower
8"
roof slats
8"
8"
6'-6"
8"
8"
8"
8"
8"
8"
3"
8"
Centerline
dimensions 4×4
cross beam 4 × 4 cross beam
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Seat Section Arch Detail/Screen Layout
1'-9"
5¼" 2"
7¼"
2 × 2 roof slat
4 × 4 cross beam
3"
4 × 4 beam 1'-1" radius
4 × 4 post Arch from 2 × 8
4 × 4 post
4 × 4 beam
2 × 2 slat
4 × 4 cross beam
4 × 4 post
5½"
2×2
2× vertical vert. slats
support spacer
5½"
between seat back
support and post 2 × 2 back
5½"
2×2
screen slats
screen slats
2×6
5½"
5'-0"
back slats
2 × 6 sloped 98° 2×6
5½"
seat back seat slats
2'-6½
support
5½"
"
2 × 6 sloped 1" overhang
1× apron 2-7"
5½"
seat support
7Y
1'-4½"
6"
1'-1"
2'-5½"
5½"
18° 1½" 3½" 7¾" 5½" 7¾"
6¼"
Seat Level roof Framing Plan Seat Slat Layout Plan
3'-½" 3'-½" 2× vertical support spacer
between seat back support and post
1'-0" 1'-0"
6"
4 × 4 inner post 2 × 6 seat slats
4 × 4 lower main beam with 3⁄16" spacing
4 × 4 outer post below 1× apron
4 × 4 lower cross beam
5'-5"
7'-0"
2 × 6 seat support
2 × 6 seat
back support
6"
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■ How to Build the Arbor Retreat
1
Stake out the project area. Drive a pair of stakes about 2 ft. outside of each corner and string mason’s lines from the stakes
to create a rectangle that’s equal to the total project footprint (6 ft. × 8 ft. 8" as seen here). Mark post locations on the strings, as
shown in the Post Layout diagram, and drive stakes at those points to mark postholes.
2 3
Set the eight posts in concrete, making sure that the tops Trim post tops. Let the concrete set up overnight and then
of the four inner posts are at least 84" above the ground, and mark level cutting lines on the posts tops. Use a laser level or a
the four outer posts are 72" above ground. The size and depth 4 ft. level taped to a straight 2 × 4 to transfer the cutting lines.
of postholes should conform to local building codes. At a Make sure to make all four faces of each post. Use a circular
minimum, the postholes should be three times the diameter of saw (a cordless trim saw is best) to trim the post tops.
the post (a 12"-dia. hole) and 24" deep. Use stakes and braces
to level and plumb the posts.
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4 5
Cut the lower and upper level beams. The lower level Install the lower beams. For each lower level main beam,
consists of four beams running perpendicular to the seats, and set the beam on top of an outer post and butt its unshaped
two beams running parallel to the seats. The upper level has two end against the corresponding inner post. Hold the beam level,
main beams and two cross beams. The 4 × 4 beams have two and mark the point where the top face of the beam meets the
ends rounded over at the bottom corners with a jig saw. Cut the inner post. Set the beam aside.
lower seat level beams to length at 36½". Cut the lower cross
beams at 84". Cut upper level main beams to length at 79".
Cut upper level cross beams at 96".
Mark a drilling point for a pilot hole
6 on the opposite (inside) face of the inner
post. Then, drill a counterbored hole just
deep enough to completely recess the
washer and head of a 3⁄8" × 7" lag screw.
Reposition each beam so its top face is on
the post reference line. Then drill a pilot
hole for the lag screw through the inner
post and into the end of the beam. Fasten
each main beam with a 3⁄8" lag screw.
(continued)
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7 8
Drill angled pilot holes through the sides of the cross Cut the 10 lower roof slats to length (78"). Mark the roof
beams and into the main beams, about ¾" in from the sides slat layout onto the tops of the lower main beams, following
of the main beams (to avoid hitting the large screws). Drill two the plan on page 214. Position slats so they overhang the main
holes on each side of the cross beam at each joint. Fasten beams by 3" at both ends. Drill pilot holes, and fasten the slats
cross beams to main beams with 3½" deck screws (eight to the main beams with 2½" deck screws.
screws for each cross beam) driven toenail style.
9 10
Cut seat supports according to the chart on page 215. Position the horizontal seat supports by first measuring
Save the cutoffs to make seat slats. Also cut a pair of vertical up from the ground and marking the inner posts at 16½"
support spacers from a full 2 × 6. Test-fit the pieces onto the and the outer posts at 13". (This marks the top edges of the
arbor posts and make necessary adjustments. Make 18°-plumb horizontal supports.) Next, position the seat supports on the
cuts at the fronts of the seat supports. marks so their back ends are flush with the outsides of the
outer posts. Fasten the supports to the posts with ¼" × 3" lag
screws driven through counterbored pilot holes.
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11 12
Position the vertical seat back support spacers and Measure and cut 1 × 8 aprons to lengths so they will fit
mark the locations of the support spacer onto the post. Fasten between the outside faces of the side seat supports. Bevel-cut
spacers to the post with 3" deck screws driven through pilot the top edges of the aprons at 7°. Position the aprons against
holes. Then, fasten the vertical seat back support to the spacer the seat supports. Fasten aprons to the ends of seat supports
and horizontal seat support with 3½" deck screws; use three with 3½" deck screws.
or four screws at each end.
13 14
Install seat slats and center supports by first measuring Assemble the two center seat supports so they match
between inner posts for seat slat length; then cutting eight the outer supports, using 2½" deck screws. Install the center
slats for each side. Position a slat on top of the horizontal seat supports at the midpoints of the slats by screwing through the
supports so the front edge overhangs the supports by about slats and into the supports, using 3" deck screws.
1". Fasten the slat to supports with pairs of 3" deck screws.
Continue installing slats, leaving a 3⁄16" gap between each.
(continued)
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15 16
Build arched lattice screens by first marking the layout of Make the arches using a cardboard template to trace the
horizontal lattice pieces onto the posts. Mark along one post shape onto a 2 × 8. Cut out the arch with a jigsaw or bandsaw
and use a level to transfer the marks to the other post. Then and test-fit the arch between the post pairs. Make necessary
cut 20 2 × 2 lattice slats to 31". Position them so they overhang adjustments and cut the remaining arches. Sand the cut
the posts by 1½" at both ends and fasten slats to posts with edges smooth.
2½" deck screws driven through pilot holes.
17 18
Fasten the arches to the posts using 2½" deck screws. Cut eight vertical slats to a rough length of 54" (first, mark
First, position arches so they are flush with the outside faces slats 7" from each post to represent the outside edges of the
of the posts and, at each end, drill an angled pilot hole upward vertical lattice slats). Mark the top ends of the slats to match
through the bottom of the arch and into the post. the arches by holding each slat on its reference marks. Cut
the curved ends and test-fit the slats. Hold each slat in place
against the arch (mark bottom for length), then cut them
to length.
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19 20
Install vertical slats with 3" deck screws driven down Build the back lattice screens by cutting 2 × 2 slats to
through tops of the arches and 2½" deck screws driven length at 75", for a 1½" overhang at each end. Position the
through the lowest horizontal slats. Make sure all screwheads slats on layout marks, drill pilot holes, and fasten the slats to
are countersunk. the posts with 2½" deck screws.
21
Finish the structure. Sand any rough areas with a random-orbit sander. Wipe down the project, and then apply a coat of exterior
wood sealant/protectant.
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remote Tool Shed
T he lean-to is a classic outbuilding intended as a
supplementary structure for a larger building. Its
simple shed-style roof helps it blend with the neighboring
against wind and extreme weather—be sure to anchor it
securely to the ground to prevent it from blowing over.
As shown here, the shed is finished with asphalt
structure. It also directs water away and keeps leaves and shingle roofing, T1-11 plywood siding, and 1× cedar
debris from getting trapped between the two buildings. trim, but you can substitute any type of finish to
When built to a small shed scale, the lean-to (sometimes match or complement a neighboring structure. Its
called a closet shed) is most useful as an easy-access 65-inch-tall double doors provide easy access to its
storage locker that saves you extra trips into the garage 18 square feet of floor space. The eight-foot-tall rear
for often-used lawn and garden tools and supplies. wall can accommodate a set of shelves while leaving
This lean-to tool shed is designed as a freestanding enough room below for long-handled tools.
building with a wooden skid foundation that makes it Because the tool shed sits on the ground, in cold
easy to move. With all four sides finished, the shed can climates it will be subject to shifting with seasonal
be placed anywhere, but it works best when set next freeze-thaw cycles. Therefore, do not attach the tool
to a house, garage wall, or a tall fence. If you locate shed to your house or any other building set on a
the shed out in the open—where it won’t be protected frost-proof foundation.
A plain shed roof is about the easiest
way to top a shed. This lean-to type shed
is perfectly at home as a standalone
shed in a remote corner of your backyard
landscape (left). Or, build it right next to
your house or garage (below).
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Cutting List
DESCrIPTION QuANTITy/SIzE MATErIAL DESCrIPTION QuANTITy/SIzE MATErIAL
Foundation Corner trim 6 @ 8' 1 × 4 S4S cedar
Drainage material 0.5 cu. yd. Compactable gravel Fascia 3 @ 6' 1 × 8 S4S cedar
1 @ 6' 1 × 4 S4S cedar
Skids 2 @ 6' 4 × 4 treated timbers
Bug screen 8" × 6' Fiberglass
Floor framing
Rim joists* 2 @ 6' 2 × 6 pressure-treated
Doors
Joists 3 @ 8' 2 × 6 pressure-treated
Frame 3 @ 6' 3
⁄4" × 31⁄2" (actual) cedar
Floor sheathing 1 sheet @ 4 × 8 3
⁄4" tongue-&-groove
ext.-grade plywood Stops 3 @ 6' 1 × 2 S4S cedar
Joist clip angles 4 3 × 3 × 3" × 16-gauge Panel material 12 @ 6' 1 × 6 T&G V-joint
galvanized S4S cedar
Z-braces 2 @ 10' 1 × 6 S4S cedar
Wall Framing Construction adhesive 1 tube
Bottom plates 1 @ 8', 2 @ 6' 2×4 Interior trim (optional) 3 @ 6' 1 × 3 S4S cedar
Top plates 1 @ 8', 3 @ 6' 2×4 Strap hinges 6, with screws
Studs 14 @ 8', 8 @ 6' 2×4
Header 2 @ 6' 2×6 Fasteners
Header spacer 1 piece @ 6' 1
⁄2" plywood—5" wide 16d galvanized 31⁄2 lbs.
common nails
16d common nails 31⁄2 lbs.
roof Framing
10d common nails 12 nails
Rafters 6 @ 6' 2×6
10d galvanized 20 nails
Ledger 1 @ 6' 2×6 casing nails
8d galvanized 1
⁄2 lb.
box nails
roofing
8d galvanized 2 lbs.
Roof sheathing 2 sheets @ 4 × 8' 1
⁄2" ext.-grade plywood finish nails
Shingles 30 sq. ft. 250# per square min. 8d common nails 24 nails
Roofing starter strip 7 linear ft. 8d box nails 1
⁄2 lb.
15# building paper 30 sq. ft. 11⁄2" joist hanger nails 16 nails
Metal drip edge 24 linear ft. Galvanized metal 7
⁄8" galvanized 1
⁄4 lb.
roofing nails
Roofing cement 1 tube
21⁄2" deck screws 6 screws
11⁄4" wood screws 60 screws
Exterior Finishes
*Note: 6-foot material is often unavailable at local
Plywood siding 4 sheets @ 4 × 8' 5
⁄8" texture 1-11 plywood
lumber stores, so buy half as much of 12-foot material.
siding, grooves 8" O.C.
Door trim 2 @ 8' 1 × 10 S4S cedar
2 @ 6' 1 × 8 S4S cedar
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Floor Framing Plan
5'-103⁄4"
to outsides of joists
1'-0"
2×6
treated joists 16" O.C.
to outsides of joists
1'-113⁄8"
3'-113⁄8"
4×4
treated timber skids
1'-0"
2×6
treated rim joist
roof Framing Plan
5'-103⁄4"
to outsides of rafters
overhang
8"
Wall lines below
2×6
rafters 16" O.C.
2 × 6 ledger
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Front Framing Elevation Left Framing Elevation
2 × 6 ledger
2 × 6 rafters
2 × 6 rafters,
16" O.C.
16" O.C.
Double 2 × 4 12
2 × 6 ledger
top plate 6
Double 2 × 4
2 × 4 top plate top plate
2 - 2 × 6 header 2 × 4 top plate
w/ 1⁄2" plywood
spacer 2 × 4 studs,
7'-91⁄2"
16" O.C.
rough opening
6'-0"
6'-0"
5'-5"
4'-93⁄4" 2×4
rough opening bottom plate
3
⁄4" plywood
2 × 6 treated
3
⁄4" plywood
joists, 16" O.C.
4 × 4 treated
2 × 6 treated
timber skid
joists, 16" O.C.
4 × 4 treated
timber skid
rear Framing Elevation right Side Framing Elevation
2 × 6 ledger 2 × 6 ledger
Double 2 × 4
12
top plate
Double 2 × 4 6
top plate
2 × 6 rafters,
16" O.C.
2 × 4 studs,
16" O.C. 2 × 4 top plate
2 × 4 studs,
7'-91⁄2"
7'-91⁄2"
2×4 16" O.C.
bottom plate
6'-0"
2×4
3
⁄4" plywood bottom plate
3
⁄4" plywood
2 × 6 treated
joists, 16" O.C. 2 × 6 treated
joists, 16" O.C.
4 × 4 treated 4 × 4 treated
timber skid timber skid
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Building Section Side Elevation
1 × 8 fascia
1
⁄2" plywood 12
12
Double 2 × 4 top plate 6 6
1 × 8 fascia
2 × 6 rafters,
16" O.C.
1×4
fascia
2×4
top plate
7'-91⁄2"
2-2×6
header w/ 1⁄2"
plywood spacer
1 × 4 trim
2 × 4 studs, 6'-0"
16" O.C. 5
⁄8" texture 1-11
plywood siding
5
⁄8" texture 1-11
plywood siding
3
⁄4" plywood
1 × 8 trim
2 × 6 treated joist, 4 × 4 treated
16" O.C. timber skid
4 × 4 treated timber skid
Front Elevation rear Elevation
Asphalt
shingles 1 × 8 fascia
1 × 4 fascia
1 × 4 trim
Homemade door
1 × 10 trim,
ripped to fit
5
⁄8" texture 1-11
plywood siding
1 × 8 trim
4 × 4 treated 4 × 4 treated
timber skid timber skid
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Floor Plan rafter Template
5'-103⁄4"
12
6 11 ⁄2"
4'-1
3'-113⁄8"
1 3⁄ 4"
2"
2 × 6 rafter
2'-35⁄8"
1 3⁄ 4"
6"
2 3⁄ 4"
4'-9 ⁄4"
3
Dimensions 6 3⁄ 4" 3 1⁄ 2"
to faces of studs
6 ⁄ 2"
1
6 ⁄ 2"
1
Side roof Edge Detail Overhang Detail
Asphalt shingles Asphalt shingles
15# building paper
12
15# building paper 2 × 6 rafter
6
1
⁄2" plywood
Metal drip edge 2
Metal drip edge
1
⁄2" plywood 2 4
6 2 2
2 × 6 rafter 1 × 4 fascia
2 4
2 × 4 top plate
1 × 8 fascia 2 4
1 × 8 trim, notched 6 6
around rafter tails
5
⁄8" plywood siding
1
⁄2" plywood
Door Jamb Detail Door Elevation
5
⁄8" plywood siding 2'-35⁄8"
1 × 3 trim
(optional)
1 × 6 T&G
V-joint
2 × 4 stud cedar boards
16" O.C.
2 2
5'-33⁄4"
1 × 4 trim 2 4 1 × 6 cedar
Z-brace
1 × 10 trim 2 4 4 4
ripped to size
3
⁄4" frame 2 doors required
1
⁄4"
1 × 2 stop Outside elevation Inside elevation
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■ How to Build a Lean-to Tool Shed
1 2
Prepare the site with a 4" layer of compacted gravel. Cut the Cut plates and studs for the walls: Side walls—two
two 4 × 4 skids at 703⁄4". Set and level the skids following Floor bottom plates at 473⁄8", four studs at 89", and four studs at 69";
Framing Plan (page 224). Cut two 2 × 6 rim joists at 703⁄4" and Front wall—one bottom plate at 633⁄4", one top plate at 703⁄4",
six joists at 443⁄8". Assemble the floor and set it on the skids as and four jacks studs at 631⁄2". Rear wall—one bottom plate at
shown in the Floor Framing Plan. Check for square, and then 633⁄4", two top plates at 703⁄4", and six studs at 89". Mark the
anchor the frame to the skids with four joist clip angles (inset stud layouts onto the plates.
photo). Sheath the floor frame with 3⁄4" plywood.
3 4
Fasten the four end studs of each side wall to the bottom Cut the six 2 × 6 rafters following the Rafter Template (page
plate. Install these assemblies. Construct the built-up 2 × 6 227). Cut the 2 × 6 ledger at 703⁄4" and bevel the top edge at
door header at 633⁄4". Frame and install the front and rear walls, 26.5° so the overall width is 45⁄16". Mark the rafter layout onto
leaving the top plates off at this time. Nail together the corner the wall plates and ledger, as shown in the Roof Framing Plan
studs, making sure they are plumb. Install the rear top plates (page 224), then install the ledger flush with the back side of
flush to the outsides of the side wall studs. Install the front top the rear wall. Install the rafters.
plate in the same fashion.
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5 6
Complete the side wall framing. Cut a top plate for each Sheath the side walls and rear walls with plywood siding,
side to fit between the front and rear walls, mitering the ends keeping the bottom edges 1⁄2" below the floor frame and the
at 26.5°. Install the plates flush with the outsides of the end top edges flush with the tops of the rafters. Overlap the siding
rafters. Mark the stud layouts onto the side wall bottom plates, at the rear corners, and stop it flush with the face of the
then use a plumb bob to transfer the marks to the top plate. front wall.
Cut the two studs in each wall to fit, mitering the top ends at
26.5°. Install the studs.
7 8
Add the 1 × 4 fascia over the bottom rafter ends as shown in Install the 1⁄2" roof sheathing, starting with a full-width
the Overhang Detail (page 227). Install 1 × 8 fascia over the top sheet at the bottom edge of the roof. Fasten metal drip edge
rafter ends. Position all fascia ½" above the rafters so it will be along the front edge of the roof. Cover the roof with building
flush with the roof deck. Overhang the front and rear fascia to paper, then add the drip edge along the sides and top of the
cover the ends of the side fascia, or plan to miter all fascia joints. roof. Shingle the roof and finish the top edge with cut shingles
Cut the 1 × 8 side fascia to length, and then clip the bottom front or a solid starter strip.
corners to meet the front fascia. Install the side fascia.
(continued)
Carpentry Projects ■ 229
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9 10
Cut and remove the bottom plate inside the door opening. For each door, cut six 1 × 6 tongue-and-groove boards at
Cut the 1 × 4 head jamb for the door frame at 571⁄8" and cut 633⁄4". Fit them together, then mark and trim the two end
the side jambs at 64". Fasten the head jamb over the sides boards so the total width is 275⁄8". Cut the 1 × 6 Z-brace boards
with 21⁄2" deck screws. Install 1 × 2 doorstops 3⁄4" from the front following the Door Elevation (page 227). The ends of the
edges of jambs, as shown in the Door Jamb Detail (page 227). horizontal braces should be 1" from the door edges. Attach the
Install the frame in the door opening using shims and 10d braces with construction adhesive and 11⁄4" screws. Install each
casing nails. door with three hinges.
11 12
Staple fiberglass insect screen along the underside of the Rip vertical and horizontal trim boards to width. Notch
roof, securing it to each rafter. Cut and install the 1 × 8 trim the ripped 1 × 8 to fit around the rafters, as shown in the Door
above the door, overlapping the side door jambs about 1⁄4" on Overhang Detail (page 227). Notch the top ends of the ripped
each side (see the Overhang Detail, page 227). 1 × 10s to fit between the rafters and install them. Add the
notched 1 × 8 trim horizontally below the door, between the
1 × 10s. Install the 1 × 4 corner trim, overlapping the pieces at
the rear corners.
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APPENDIX: Codes & Considerations
F or almost any building project, there are local
regulations you should consider. Building
codes, zoning ordinances, and permits are the
Building codes exist to ensure that the materials
and construction methods of your project are safe.
Zoning laws govern the size, location, and style of your
legal issues you’ll have to contend with, but you structure to preserve aesthetic standards. Permits and
should also consider how your project will fit into inspections are required to ensure your plans meet all
the neighborhood and the effect it will have on local building and zoning restrictions.
your neighbors. Requirements and restrictions vary from one
community to the next, so make sure to check the
codes for your area. If your plans conflict with local
codes, you may be able to apply for a variance, which
allows you to bypass the strict requirements of the
code. In some cases, you’ll need the agreement of your
neighbors in order to obtain a variance.
Talk to your local building inspection department
early to determine if your project requires a permit
and whether you must submit plans for approval. The
permit process can take several weeks or months,
so checking early helps avoid delays. Fill out the
necessary forms, pay any applicable fees, and wait for
your approval.
Discuss your plans with neighbors as well. A
fence, wall, or gate on or near a property line is as
much a part of your neighbors’ landscapes as your
own. The tall hedge you’ve planned for privacy
may cast a dense shadow over your neighbor’s
sunbathing deck. The simple courtesy of letting
your neighbors know what you’re planning can keep
everyone on a friendly basis, and can even help avoid
legal disputes.
You may find that discussing your plans with
neighbors reaps unexpected rewards. You and your
neighbor may decide to share labor and expenses
by landscaping both properties at once. Or you may
combine resources on a key feature that benefits both
yards, such as a stone garden wall or shade tree.
In addition, check with your local utility
companies to pinpoint the locations of any
underground electrical, plumbing, sewer, or telephone
lines on your property. These locations can have an
impact on your plans if your project requires digging
or changes your property’s grade. There is no charge
to have utility companies locate these lines, and it
can prevent you from making an expensive or life-
threatening mistake. In many areas, the law requires
that you have this done before digging any holes.
On the following pages, you’ll find some common
legal restrictions for typical landscape projects.
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FEnCES • Surface & drainage: Concrete sidewalk
• Height: The maximum height of a fence may be surfaces should be textured to provide a nonslip
restricted by your local building code. In some surface, and crowned or slanted ¼" per foot to
communities, backyard fences are limited to 6 ft. ensure that water doesn’t puddle.
in height, while front yard fences are limited to • Sand-set paver walkways: Brick pavers should
3 ft. or 4 ft.—or prohibited altogether. be laid on a 3"-thick base of sand.
• Setback: Even if not specified by your building
code, it’s a good idea to position your fence 12"
or so inside the official property line to avoid any
possible boundary disputes. Correspondingly, don’t
1 ft. setback
assume that a neighbor’s fence marks the exact
boundary of your property. For example, before
digging an elaborate planting bed up to the edge of
your neighbor’s fence, it’s best to make sure you’re
not encroaching on someone else’s land.
• Gates: Gates must be at least 3 ft. wide. If you
plan to push a wheelbarrow through it, your gate
width should be 4 ft.
Property line
DRIVEWAyS
Fences should be set back at least 1 ft. from the formal
• Width: Straight driveways should be at least
property lines.
10 ft. wide; 12 ft. is better. On sharp curves, the
driveway should be 14 ft. wide.
• Thickness: Concrete driveways should be at least
6" thick.
• Base: Because it must tolerate considerable
weight, a concrete or brick paver driveway should
have a compactible gravel base that is at least
6" thick.
• Drainage: A driveway should slope ¼" per foot
away from a house or garage. The center of the
driveway should be crowned so it is 1" higher in
the center than on the sides.
• Reinforcement: Your local building code
probably requires that all concrete driveways Driveways should be at least 10 ft. wide to
be reinforced with iron rebar or steel mesh accommodate vehicles.
for strength.
SIDEWALkS & PATHS
• Size of sidewalks: Traditional concrete
sidewalks should be 4 ft. to 5 ft. wide to allow two
people to comfortably pass one another, and 3" to
4" thick.
• Width of garden paths: Informal pathways may
be 2 ft. to 3 ft. wide, although stepping-stone
pathways can be even narrower.
• Base: Most building codes require that a concrete
or brick sidewalk be laid on a base of compactible
gravel at least 4" thick. Standard concrete
sidewalks may also need to be reinforced with iron Concrete paving should be laid on a bed of gravel to
rebar or steel mesh for strength. provide drainage.
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STEPS
• Proportion of riser to tread depth: In general,
steps should be proportioned so that the sum
of the depth, plus the riser multiplied by two, is
between 25" and 27". A 15" depth and 6" rise, for
example, is a comfortable step (15 + 12 = 27); as
Tread depth is an 18" depth and 4" rise (18 + 8 = 26).
10" to 12"
• Railings: Building codes may require railings
riser height for any stairway with more than three steps,
4" to 6"
especially for stairs that lead to an entrance to
your home.
COnCRETE PATIOS
• Base: Concrete patios should have a subbase
Concrete steps should use a comfortable tread depth and of compactible gravel at least 4" thick. Concrete
riser height. slabs for patios should be at least 3" thick.
• Reinforcement: Concrete slabs should be
reinforced with wire mesh or a grid of rebar.
GARDEn WALLS
• Footings: Mortared brick or stone garden walls
more than 4 ft. in height often require concrete
footings that extend below the winter frost line.
Failure to follow this regulation can result in a
hefty fine or a demolition order, as well as a flimsy,
dangerous wall.
• Drainage: Dry-set stone garden walls installed
without concrete footings should have a base of
compactible gravel at least 4" thick to ensure the
stability of the wall.
SWIMMInG POOLS
Concrete patios require reinforcement with steel mesh
or rebar.
• Fences: Nearly all building codes require a
protective fence around swimming pools to keep
young children and animals away from the water.
• Location: In some areas, building codes require
that below-ground swimming pools be at least
10 ft. away from a building foundation.
RETAInInG WALLS
• Height: For do-it-yourself construction, retaining
walls should be no more than 4 ft. high. Higher
slopes should be terraced with two or more short
retaining walls.
• Batter: A retaining wall should have a backward
Frost line slant (batter) of 2" to 3" for dry-set stones; 1" to 2"
for mortared stones.
• Footings: Retaining walls higher than 4 ft. must
have concrete footings that extend down below
Mortared garden walls need to be supported by the frost line. This helps ensure the stability of
concrete footings. the wall.
APPENDIX: Codes & Considerations ■ 233
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POnDS
• Safety: To ensure child safety, some communities
restrict landscape ponds to a depth of 12" to
18", unless surrounded by a protective fence or
covered with heavy wire mesh.
DECkS
• Structural members: Determining the proper
spacing and size for structural elements of a
deck can be a complicated process, but if you
follow these guidelines, you will satisfy code
requirements in most areas:
A series of short retaining walls, rather than one tall wall,
BEAM SIzE & SPAN is the best way to handle a slope.
Beam size Maximum spacing
between posts
two 2 × 8s 8 ft.
two 2 × 10s 10 ft.
two 2 × 12s 12 ft.
JOIST SIzE & SPAN
Joist size Maximum distance
between beams
(Joists 16" apart)
2×6 8 ft.
2×8 10 ft.
2 × 10 13 ft.
Railing balusters are required by building code to be spaced
• Decking boards: Surface decking boards should no more than 4" apart to keep small children from slipping
be spaced so the gaps between boards are no more through or being trapped between them.
than ¼" wide.
• Railings: Any deck more than 24" high requires a
railing. Gaps between rails or balusters should be
no more than 4".
• Post footings: Concrete footings should be at
least 8" in diameter. If a deck is attached to a
permanent structure, the footings must extend
below the frost line in your region.
SHEDS
• Setback: Most zoning laws require that outbuildings
must be set back a specific distance from property
lines. Depending on your community, the distance
could be as little as 6" or as much as 3 ft. or more.
• Building permits: These are often required if
the shed has wiring and plumbing or if it exceeds Sheds larger than 120 sq. ft. may require a permit, but
a maximum size defined as a temporary structure. temporary structures typically do not.
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Conversions
Metric Equivalent
Inches (in.) 1
⁄64 1
⁄32 1
⁄25 1
⁄16 1
⁄8 1
⁄4 3
⁄8 2
⁄5 1
⁄2 5
⁄8 3
⁄4 ⁄8
7
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 36 39.4
Feet (ft.) 1 3 31⁄12
Yards (yd.) 1 11⁄12
Millimeters (mm) 0.40 0.79 1 1.59 3.18 6.35 9.53 10 12.7 15.9 19.1 22.2 25.4 50.8 76.2 101.6127 152 178 203 229 254 279 305 914 1,000
Centimeters (cm) 0.95 1 1.27 1.59 1.91 2.22 2.54 5.08 7.62 10.1612.7 15.2 17.8 20.3 22.9 25.4 27.9 30.5 91.4 100
Meters (m) .30 .91 1.00
Converting Measurements
TO CONvErT: TO: MuLTIPLy By: TO CONvErT: TO: MuLTIPLy By:
Inches Millimeters 25.4 Millimeters Inches 0.039
Inches Centimeters 2.54 Centimeters Inches 0.394
Feet Meters 0.305 Meters Feet 3.28
Yards Meters 0.914 Meters Yards 1.09
Miles Kilometers 1.609 Kilometers Miles 0.621
Square inches Square centimeters 6.45 Square centimeters Square inches 0.155
Square feet Square meters 0.093 Square meters Square feet 10.8
Square yards Square meters 0.836 Square meters Square yards 1.2
Cubic inches Cubic centimeters 16.4 Cubic centimeters Cubic inches 0.061
Cubic feet Cubic meters 0.0283 Cubic meters Cubic feet 35.3
Cubic yards Cubic meters 0.765 Cubic meters Cubic yards 1.31
Pints (U.S.) Liters 0.473 (lmp. 0.568) Liters Pints (U.S.) 2.114 (lmp. 1.76)
Quarts (U.S.) Liters 0.946 (lmp. 1.136) Liters Quarts (U.S.) 1.057 (lmp. 0.88)
Gallons (U.S.) Liters 3.785 (lmp. 4.546) Liters Gallons (U.S.) 0.264 (lmp. 0.22)
Ounces Grams 28.4 Grams Ounces 0.035
Pounds Kilograms 0.454 Kilograms Pounds 2.2
Tons Metric tons 0.907 Metric tons Tons 1.1
Converting Temperatures Fahrenheit Celsius
Convert degrees Fahrenheit (F) to degrees Celsius (C) by following this simple
formula: Subtract 32 from the Fahrenheit temperature reading. Then mulitply that
number by 5⁄9. For example, 77°F - 32 = 45. 45 × 5⁄9 = 25°C. 55° 25°
To convert degrees Celsius to degrees Fahrenheit, multiply the Celsius temperature 50° 20°
reading by 9⁄5, then add 32. For example, 25°C × 9⁄5 = 45. 45 + 32 = 77°F. 45° 15°
40° 10°
35° 5°
30° Freezing 0°
25° −5°
20° −10°
15° −15°
10° −20°
5° −25°
0° −30°
Conversions ■ 235
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Resources/Photo Credits
Black & Decker
Red Wing Shoes Co.
Portable power tools and more
work shoes and boots shown throughout book
www.blackanddecker.com
800 733 9464
www.redwingshoes.com
Cali Bamboo
Bamboo fencing, flooring, and more
United States National Arboretum
888.788.2254
USDA gardening zone maps
www.calibamboo.com
www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone
California Redwood Association
www.calredwood.com
North American One-Call Referral System
Call before you dig!
888.258.0808
Photo Credits
Alamy
p. 185 top
iStockphoto
pp. 11 right, 100
Mark Turner/Getty Images
p. 83 top
Photolibrary
pp. 41 bottom, 65 bottom right, 186 bottom left, 187 bottom
Photosearch
pp. 107 top, 130 bottom left, 130 top
Shutterstock
pp. 11 left, 38 both, 39 both, 40 all, 41 top, 42 top, 52, 65
bottom left, 82 both, 83 bottom, 84 all, 85 both, 92, 96-97,
106 both, 107 bottom, 108 both, 109 both, 130 bottom
right, 131 all, 132 all, 133 all, 140, 184 both, 185 bottom,
186 top and bottom right, 187 top
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Index
A driveways, typical, 232 F
Arbor ideas, 184, 186 fences, typical, 232 Fasteners, 28–29
Arbor retreats garden walls, typical, 233 Feeding lawn, 13
about, 210 paths, typical, 232 Fences
architecture detail/screen layout ponds, typical, 234 bamboo, 186, 202–205
drawing, 215 retaining walls, typical, 233 picket protection, 206–209
beam end detail drawing, 213 sheds, typical, 234 typical codes for, 232
building step-by-step, 216–221 sidewalks, typical, 232 Fieldstone, 17
elevation views, 213 steps, typical, 233 Fire pits
ideas for, 210–222 swimming pools, typical, 233 about, 178
materials list, 212 Compacted soil, repairing, 47 building step-by-step, 180–181
post layout drawing, 213 Compact skidloaders, using, 65 cross section, 179
roof framing plan, 216 Composite materials, 15 plan view, 179
roof/slat plan, 216 Compost bins Flagstone, 17
seating drawings, 214–215 about, 188 Flagstone landscape steps
slat plans, 214–215 building step-by-step, 191–193 about, 170
Arroyos, building, 58–61 cutting list, 190 building step-by-step, 171–173
Ashlar, 17, 146 idea for, 189 construction details, 170
Concrete Fountain & hard-shell pond
B about, 18 about, 118–119
Backyard fire pits blocks, 16, 19 installing step-by-step, 120–123
about, 178 curb edging, installing, 70–71 Freeform garden ponds, creating,
building step-by-step, 180–181 estimating amount needed, 23 124–127
cross section, 179 patios, typical codes for, 233 Freeform paver landscape bed edging,
plan view, 179 stepping pavers idea, 165 installing, 69
Bagged concrete mix, 9 Contractor’s calculator, 22
Balled-and-burlapped trees, planting, Crushed stone, 20–21 G
86–87 Curves in interlock block retaining Galvanized hardware & fasteners, 28,
Bamboo fences walls, adding, 139 29
about, 202 Garden bridges
building step-by-step, 203–204 D about, 194
covering old fences with, 205 Decks, typical codes for, 234 building step-by-step, 196–197
ideas for, 186, 202 Decomposed granite (DG), 20 components and cutting list, 195
Borders, ideas for, 84 Deer, protecting against, 206 ideas for, 185, 194
Boulders, ideas for using, 38, 131, 132 Dog damage on lawn, repairing, 47 Garden walls, typical codes for, 233
Brick edging Drainage Gate ideas, 184, 187
for landscape bed, installing, 69 arroyos, building, 58–61 Glass blocks, 16
for loose rock path, installing, for interlock block retaining Grading yards, 42–43
159, 161 walls, 135 Grass
Bricks, about, 16, 19 loose materials and, 20, 41 characteristics of seed varieties, 47
Bridges slopes, 38 height, 12
about, 194 swales, building, 62–65 See also Lawncare
building step-by-step, 196–197 Drip irrigation, 112–113 Gravel landscape paths
components and cutting list, 195 Driveways about, 156
ideas for, 185, 194 ideas for, 130 building step-by-step, 158–161
Brush removal, 50–51 typical codes for, 232 idea, 157
Bubble plans, making, 32 Drop spreaders, using, 13 Gravel & timber landscape steps
Building codes. See Codes Drystack stone walls about, 166
Butterfly gardens, planting, 57 about, 146 building step-by-step, 167–169
building, 147 construction details, 167
C idea for, 133 Gravel types and uses, 63
Chemical burns on lawn, repairing, 47 Green groundcover, establishing,
Cobblestone, 17 E 92–93
Codes Electrical power for fountain, Green landscapes, 34–35
about, 231 providing, 123 Groundcover, establishing green,
concrete patios, typical, 233 EPDM rubber for liners, 125 92–93
decks, typical, 234
Index ■ 237
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H Layout tools, 27 O
Hand tools, 25 Lean-to sheds Ordinances. See Codes
Hard-shell pond & fountain about, 22 Ornamental grasses idea, 83
about, 118–119 building section drawing, 226
installing step-by-step, 120–123 building step-by-step, 228–230 P
Hardware & fasteners, 28–29 cutting list, 223 Paths
Heading back shrubs, 90 door drawings, 227 ideas for, 39, 41, 83, 130, 131
Heading back trees, 91 elevation drawings, 225, 226, 227 loose rock, building, 156–161
Hedgerow ideas, 84 floor framing plan, 224 stepping stone, building, 162–165
Hedge trimmers, about, 91 floor plan, 227 typical codes for, 232
Herb gardens, planting, 56 ideas for, 186, 222 Patios, typical codes for concrete, 233
Hot-dipped galvanization, 28, 29 roof edge & overhang detail Paver bricks, 16
drawings, 227 Pea gravel, 20–21
I roof framing plan, 224 Pebbled stepping stone paths
In-ground sprinkler systems Leveling tools, 27 about, 162
about, 114 Leveling yards, 42 building step-by-step, 164–165
designing, 115 Lighting, low-voltage landscape idea, 163
installing step-by-step, 116–117 about, 74 Perennial plants, ideas for, 82
Interlock block retaining walls components, 75 Picket protection fences
about, 134 installing step-by-step, 76–79 about, 206
building step-by-step, 136–138 solar lights, 79 building step-by-step, 207–209
cross section, 136 tips, 75, 76 styles, 206–207
curves, adding, 139 Lighting ideas, 74, 85 Pinching shrubs, 90
design considerations, 135 Liners for ponds, 125 Planting beds
drainage for, 135 Liquid concrete products, 18 ideas for, 40
ideas for, 133, 134 Loose rock landscape paths raised, building, 54–55
Invisible edging, installing, 68 about, 156 raised, themes for, 56–57
Irrigation, drip, 112–113 building step-by-step, 158–161 Plants for green landscapes, 34
idea, 157 Plastics, 15
L Low-voltage landscape lighting Ponds
Landscape bed edging, installing about, 74 freeform, creating, 124–127
concrete curb, 70–71 components, 75 hard-shell with fountain, creating,
freeform paver (brick), 69 installing step-by-step, 76–79 118–123
invisible, 68 solar lights, 79 ideas for, 107–108, 109, 118
lumber, 73 tips, 75, 76 typical codes for, 234
rigid paver, 68 Lumber landscape bed edging, Portable power tools, 24
timber, 72 installing, 73 Pots, ideas for using, 84
Landscape beds, creating, 66–67 Poured concrete. See Concrete
Landscape design, creating, 30–33 M Pressure-treated lumber, hardware &
Landscape materials Manufactured stone, 16 fasteners for, 28
blocks & brick, 19 Marking tools, 27 Pruning
composites, 15 Materials shrubs, 41, 90
concrete, 18 estimating & ordering, 22–23 trees, 90, 91
estimating and ordering, 22–23 for green landscapes, 34
loose, 20–21 Measurements, making, 30, 31 R
manufactured stone, 16 Metal anchors, 28 Rain barrels, wood for, 108
metals, 15 Metal connectors, 28 Rain barrel system, installing, 110–111
natural stone, 17 Metals, 15 Rain gardens
plastics, 15 Mortar, removing, 151 about, 61, 96
woods, 14 Mortared stone walls building, 98–99
Landscapers, when to hire, 42 about, 148 planning, 97
Lawncare building step-by-step, 149–151 preparing land, 98
aeration, 46, 47 repairing, 154 Raised beds, building
fertilizing, 13 replacing stone, 155 about, 54
mowing basics, 11, 12 repointing joints, 154 choosing theme, 56–57
watering basics, 12 Mortar mixes, 19 cross-section, 55
weed control, 10 Mulch, 21, 94 step-by-step, 55
Lawn renovation Mulching beds, 94–95 Reduction cuts (trees), 91
bare spots, repairing, 47, 49 Rejuvenating shrubs, 90
diagnosis of problem, 44–45 N Remote tool sheds
site preparation, 46 Nails, 29 about, 22
step-by-step, 48 Natural stone, 17 building section drawing, 226
building step-by-step, 228–230
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cutting list, 223 walls, 135 building step-by-step, 228–230
door drawings, 227 Steppers, choosing, 162 cutting list, 223
elevation drawings, 225, 226, 227 Stepping stone landscape paths door drawings, 227
floor framing plan, 224 about, 162 elevation drawings, 225, 226, 227
floor plan, 227 building step-by-step, 164–165 floor framing plan, 224
ideas for, 186, 222 idea, 163 floor plan, 227
roof edge & overhang detail Steps ideas for, 186, 222
drawings, 227 flagstone, building, 170–173 roof edge & overhang detail
roof framing plan, 224 ideas for, 130, 132 drawings, 227
Retaining walls timber & gravel, building, 166–169 roof framing plan, 224
ideas for, 39, 132, 133, 134 typical codes for, 233 Trees
interlock block, building, 134–139 Stone felling, 88–89
stepped trenches for, 135 crushed, 20–21 planting, 86–87
stone, building, 140–145 manufactured, 16 pruning, 90, 91
stone, planting, 145 natural, 17 retaining, 40
typical codes for, 233 Stone walls, drystack Trellises
Rigid paver landscape bed edging, building, 146–148 about, 198
installing, 68 erosion and, 152, 153 building step-by-step, 200–201
River rock, 17, 20–21 idea, 133 design and cutting list, 199
Rocks (large), ideas for using, 38, 131, rebuilding section, 153 ideas for, 184, 198
132 repairing popped stone, 152
Rubble, 17 Stone walls, mortared U
about, 148 Utility lines, 231
S building step-by-step, 149–151
Safety and utility lines, 231 repairing, 154 V
Safety gear, 27 replacing stone, 155 Veneer stone, 17
Screws, 29 repointing joints, 154 Vertical mowers (verticutters), 46
Shearing shrubs, 90 Stone walls, retaining
Sheds, remote tool about, 140 W
about, 22 building, 142–145 Walls
building section drawing, 226 cross sections, 141 ideas for, 130–133
building step-by-step, 228–230 planting, 145 typical codes for garden, 233
cutting list, 223 Stretchers (bridge), 195 See also Entries beginning with
door drawings, 227 Stringers (bridge), 195 stone walls; Retaining walls
elevation drawings, 225, 226, 227 Swales Wall stone, 17
floor framing plan, 224 about, 62 Waterfall ideas, 106, 107, 108, 109
floor plan, 227 building step-by-step, 64–65 Water filters, swales as, 62
ideas for, 186, 222 options, 63 Watering lawns, 12
roof edge & overhang detail Swimming pools, typical codes for, 233 Water landscaping, ideas for, 106–109
drawings, 227 Weed control in lawns, 10
roof framing plan, 224 T Wheelbarrows, 26
Sheds, typical codes for, 234 Terraced retaining walls idea, 134 Windbreaks, creating, 52–53
Shrubs Thatch, 46 Wood
ideas for, 84 Thinning chips, 21
planting, 86–87 shrubs, 90 types, 14
pruning, 41, 90 trees, 91 Wood rain barrels, 108
Sidewalks, typical codes for, 233 Timber, cutting, 168 Working drawings, making, 33
Simpson Strong-Tie metal anchors, 28 Timber & gravel landscape steps
Site map, making, 31 about, 166
Skid loaders, 26 building step-by-step, 167–169 X
Slopes construction details, 167 Xeriscape
drainage and, 38 Timber landscape bed edging, about, 100
mowing on, 11 installing, 72 beds, creating step-by-step,
Soil Tools 102–103
compacted, repairing, 47 for brush removal, 50 idea for, 100
testing, 45 buying considerations, 24 principles of, 100
Solar landscape lights, 79 hand, 25
Spacer gauges, making, 158 layout, marking & leveling, 27 Z
Sprinkler systems, in-ground portable power, 24 Zen garden idea, 131
about, 114 safety gear, 27 Zen garden rakes, making, 177
designing, 115 specialty, 26 Zen gardens
installing step-by-step, 116–117 Tool sheds about, 174
Stainless steel, 29 about, 22 ideas for, 131, 174
Stepped trenches for retaining building section drawing, 226 making step-by-step, 175–176
Index ■ 239
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Copyright © 2010, 2011 President/CEO: Ken Fund
Creative Publishing international, Inc.
400 First Avenue North, Suite 300 Home Improvement Group
Minneapolis, Minnesota 55401
1-800-328-0590 Publisher: Bryan Trandem
www.creativepub.com Managing Editor: Tracy Stanley
All rights reserved Senior Editor: Mark Johanson
Printed in China Creative Director: Michele Lanci-Altomare
Art Direction/Design: Jon Simpson, Brad Springer, James Kegley
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Digital edition: 978-1-61059-009-9 Lead Photographer: Joel Schnell
Set Builder: James Parmeter
Softcover edition: 978-1-58923-564-9 Production Managers: Laura Hokkanen, Linda Halls
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Edition Editor: Kristen Hampshire
The complete guide to landscape projects. Page Layout Artist: Danielle Smith
p. cm. Copy Editor: Chris Marshall
At head of title: Black & Decker. Shop Help: Charles Boldt
Includes index.
ISBN-13: 978-1-58923-564-9 (soft cover)
ISBN-10: 1-58923-564-9 (soft cover)
1. Landscape construction. I. Black & Decker Corporation (Towson,
Md.) II. Title.
TH4961.C6542 2010
712--dc22
2010030580
The Complete Guide to Landscape Projects
Created by: The Editors of Creative Publishing international, Inc., in cooperation with Black & Decker.
Black & Decker® is a trademark of The Black & Decker Corporation and is used under license.
NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The publisher
and Black & Decker cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse
of the information provided.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional
techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions included with products,
since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required:
some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help.
Consult your local building department for information on building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to
your project.001-035_21081.indd 2 9/4/10 8:57:36 AM 001-035_21081.indd 2 9/4/10 9:03:36 AM Job:09-21081 Title:CPI-HI 0607 CG to Landscape Projects (Ray) Text #175 Dtp:216 Page:2
Rather have me do it?
Outdoor projects are my specialty. Let me do the heavy lifting.