Carpentry & Woodworking
Black & Decker The complete guide to outdoor carpentry
Source: Black & Decker The complete guide to outdoor carpentry.pdf
Source file: Black & Decker The complete guide to outdoor carpentry.pdf
The Complete Guide to
OUTDOOR
CARPENTRY Updated 3rd Edition
Complete Plans for Beautiful Backyard Building Projects324896 - B&D The Complete Guide to Outdoor Carpentry Updated 3rd Edition_001-208.indd 1 8/3/19 12:53 PM 324896 - B&D The Complete Guide to Outdoor Carpentry Updated 3rd Edition_001-208.indd 1 8/3/19 12:52 PM Title: 324896 - B&D The Complete Guide to Outdoor Carpentry Updated 3rd Edition Text Page: 1
© 2019 Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc.
The following projects are © SCOUT and are used with permission:
First published in 2014 by Cool Springs Press, an imprint of The Quarto Folding Table (page 92)
Group, 100 Cummings Center, Suite 265-D, Beverly, MA 01915, USA. T (978) Sheltered Swing (page 168)
282-9590 F (978) 283-2742 QuartoKnows.com Garden Bridges (pages 188-203) www.handy.scout.com
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form Cover photo© SCOUT
without written permission of the copyright owners. All images in this
book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the Acquisitions Editor: Mark Johanson
artists concerned, and no responsibility is accepted by producer, publisher, Senior Art Director: Brad Springer
or printer for any infringement of copyright or otherwise, arising from the Layout: Laurie Young
contents of this publication. Every effort has been made to ensure that Contributing Photographer: Rau + Barber
credits accurately comply with information supplied. We apologize for any Photo Assistance: Adam Esco
inaccuracies that may have occurred and will resolve inaccurate or missing
information in a subsequent reprinting of the book. Printed in China
Cool Springs Press titles are also available at discount for retail, wholesale,
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ager by email at specialsales@quarto.com or by mail at The Quarto Group,
Attn: Special Sales Manager, 100 Cummings Center, Suite 265-D, Beverly, MA
01915, USA.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Originally found under the following Library of Congress Cataloging-in-
Publication Data
The complete guide to outdoor carpentry : complete plans for beautiful
backyard building projects. -- 2nd edition.
pages cm
At head of title: BLACK+DECKER.
Summary: “Step-by-step instructions and full-color photography for more
than 30 projects, including swings, benches, planters, tables, chairs, arbors
and bridges”-- Provided by publisher.
ISBN 978-1-59186-618-3 (paperback)
Paperback edition: 978-0-76036-5-380
Digital edition: 978-0-76036-5-397
1. Garden structures--Amateurs’ manuals. 2. Outdoor furniture--Amateurs’
manuals. 3. Carpentry--Amateurs’ manuals. I. Black & Decker Corporation
(Towson, Md.)
TH4961.C6543 2014
684.1’8--dc23
2014012732
BLACK+DECKER and the BLACK+DECKER logo are trademarks of The Black & Decker Corporation and are used under license. All rights
reserved.
NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The publisher
and BLACK+DECKER cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse
of the information provided.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional
techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions included with products,
since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required:
some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help.
Consult your local building department for information on building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to
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Contents
The Complete Guide to 10
Outdoor Carpentry, 3rd Edition
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
19 25
26
SEATING PROJECTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Side-by-Side Patio Chair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Classic Adirondack Chair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Slatted Garden Bench . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Knockdown Garden Bench . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Sling-Back Adirondack Chair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Porch Swing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Porch Swing Stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Recyclables Bench . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Luxury Sun Lounger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Trellis Seat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 52
32
31
35 66
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Contents (Cont.)
91
72 86
80
DINING & ENTERTAINING PROJECTS . . . . . . . . 70
Trestle Table and Benches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
Cedar Patio Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Teahouse Table Set . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
108
138 106
84
Folding Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
Occasional Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Children’s Picnic Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Traditional Picnic Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Patio Prep Cart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
Pitmaster’s Locker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
148
118
Timberframe Sandbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
YARD & GARDEN PROJECTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Compost Bin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
Freestanding Arbor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
High-low Potting Bench . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 144
114
Trellis Planter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Raised Bed with Removable Trellis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
Versailles Planter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
Jumbo Cold Frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
Pagoda Lantern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
163
134 164
138
Firewood Shelter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
Shelter with Swing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Four-Post Patio Pergola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
154
144 180
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192
SPECIAL SECTION: GARDEN BRIDGES . . . . . . 188
Conversions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
Credits/Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
198
192
203
192
196
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Introduction
O utdoor carpentry is just plain fun. Working away in the elements and fresh air with plenty of space and elbow
room. And perhaps best of all, you almost never encounter a fraction like 13/64 or a cutting angle like “31.2°”.
The projects tend to be bigger and so do the tolerances. So if you’re still pretty new at the carpentry craft, there is
no better place to get some experience (and create some cool things for your yard) than working outdoor.
In this new edition of BLACK+DECKER The Complete Guide to Outdoor Carpentry you’ll find more than
two dozen complete projects, from basic benches to large four-post pergolas. Most are made of wood and do not
require a lot of fancy tools. Some are highly utilitarian, like Potting Benches (page 134) and Firewood Shelter
(page 164), or Cold Frames (page 152) and Compost Bins (page 124) for gardening. Others are meant for visual
pleasure, such as the Freestanding Arbor (page 128) and Trellis Seat (page 66).
We’ve been careful to include projects that represent a wide range of skill levels, but even the hardest among
these are doable for the average weekend craftsman. Put together the Traditional Picnic Table on page 104 and
you’ll practice mitering different angles in the same structural member. The woodworking and crafting lessons go
on and on from there.
The ultimate goal, however, is to make additions to your backyard (or front or side yard) that beautify the
outdoor space and make it more usable. Whether you’re building a place to sit and get a tan, like the Luxury Sun
Lounger on page 58, or adding a handsome workhorse like the Patio Prep Cart on page 108, you’ll find that all the
projects in the pages that follow meet that goal in high style. You bring the tools and elbow grease and we’ll supply
the photo-driven instructions for projects where function meets one-of-a-kind, beautiful form.
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Seating
Projects
Y ou’ll never fully enjoy your backyard without
comfortable seating. Chairs, benches, and swings
are mainstays of outdoor living. In this chapter you’ll
find a dozen seating projects that range from fanciful to
simple, classic to retro, and nautical to Eastern-inspired.
Each design in this chapter has been carefully
shop-tested for comfort. A couple of degrees of slant in
a seatback might not appear to make much difference
when you’re drawing up a plan, but your body can tell
immediately. And if your seating is not comfortable,
what use is it? You can be confident that the benches
and chairs that follow have been subjected to hands-on
(well, not hands exactly) testing from sitters of all sizes.
If you are a relative newcomer to carpentry, consider
starting with one of the simpler projects, such as the
Knockdown Garden Bench or the Slatted Garden
Bench. If your skills are a bit more advanced, think
about tackling the Porch Swing and Porch Swing Stand
or perhaps the Luxury Sun Lounger that’s crafted from
mahogany and features stainless steel brightwork.
In this chapter:
• Side-by-Side Patio Chair
• Classic Adirondack Chair
• Slatted Garden Bench
• Knockdown Garden Bench
• Sling-Back Adirondack Chair
• Porch Swing
• Porch Swing Stand
• Recyclables Bench
• Luxury Sun Lounger
• Trellis Seat
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Side-by-side Patio Chair
Y ou can share a view, some shade, and a table for
snacks and a beverage with a friend when you’ve
got this side-by-side patio chair in your backyard. You
to build if you have a table saw, miter saw, jigsaw, and
router. If you don’t have a table saw, then you can use
a circular saw to rip the 2 × 4 frame pieces down to
might recognize the design, as it was inspired by the 3" widths. The purpose for these parts being 3" wide
side-by-side chairs that were often included in the is to give the set a more refined appearance, but you
ubiquitous redwood patio sets popular in the ’50s can simplify the design and avoid rip cuts by using full
and ’60s. Those sets typically included a lounge chair, width 2 × 4s. If you choose to use full-width 2 × 4s,
some small tables, a patio table with an umbrella then you must move the front rail notch up 1⁄2" and the
holder, and a side-by-side table and chair similar to the seats will end up being 1⁄2" higher.
one shown here.
You’ll find that these seats are most comfortable
when they’re appointed with cushions, but they’re still Materials ▸
easy to enjoy when left bare. And just about any patio
table umbrella can be used with this set—simply size 5 1 × 4" × 8 ft. boards Deck screws (2", 21⁄2")
the umbrella post hole to fit. The optional umbrella 5 2 × 4" × 8 ft. boards Exterior-rated glue
should also be secured in a weighted base that is 1 2 × 6" × 8 ft. board Finishing materials
placed under the table. 1 5⁄4 × 12 ft.
Even a beginner can build this side-by-side chair deck board
in a day using less than $100 in materials. It’s easiest
This lounge chair built for two offers comfortable seating separated by shared table space. It is a perfect furnishing for intimate
conversations or for quiet leisure time spent sharing a bowl of snacks and an occasional sidelong glance.
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Side-by-side chair.eps
Artist Date Initials Date
02/29/2009
Accurate
Author Art, Inc. ISBN # Author's review
Outdoor CarpentryCheck if revision
0781760607 (if needed)
CE's review
name OK Correx
B x W Document 2/C 4/C OK Correx
Side-by-side chair.eps
Date Initials Date
Artist
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas) 02/29/2009
Art, Inc.
44w xAccurate
36d Check if revision Initials
CE's review
Date
BxW 2/C 4/C OK Correx
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
Side-by-Side Patio Chair Initials Date
44w x 36d
I
I
E E
N
M
J J
L
L
K K
C
K
K A
H
N
C
D
G A
B
C 9"
F 12 ⁄ 2" 1
B
5 1⁄ 2"
A
3 1⁄ 2"
7 1⁄ 2" 8 1⁄ 2"
14°
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Front legs 11⁄2 × 3 × 23" 2 PT Pine H Table bottom 11⁄2 × 3 × 193⁄4" 1 PT Pine
B Back legs 1 ⁄2 × 3 × 23 ⁄2"
1 1
2 PT Pine crosspiece
C Seat supports 1 ⁄2 × 3 × 18 ⁄8"
1 5
4 PT Pine I Back slats 3
⁄4 × 31⁄2 × 19" 10 PT Pine
D Arm supports 11⁄2 × 3 × 221⁄2" 2 PT Pine J Seat slats 3
⁄4 × 3 ⁄2 × 20 ⁄2"
1 1
10 PT Pine
E Back supports 11⁄2 × 3 × 213⁄4" 4 PT Pine K Table posts 3
⁄4 × 3 ⁄2 × 13 ⁄2"
1 1
4 PT Pine
F Front rail 11⁄2 × 51⁄2 × 603⁄4" 1 PT Pine L Table supports 1 ⁄2 × 3 × 16 ⁄4"
1 3
2 PT Pine
G Back rail 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 603⁄4" 1 PT Pine M Tabletop planks 1 ⁄4 × 5 ⁄2 × 24"
1 1
3 PT Pine
N Armrests 1 ⁄4 × 5 ⁄2 × 24"
1 1
2 PT Pine
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■ Side-by-Side Patio Chair
BUILD THE FRAME each piece. These details must be correctly noted onto
Cut 2 × 4 boards to make the legs, back supports, the parts. Lay out the notches that will hold the front rail
and seat supports. These parts must be rip-cut down in between the front legs and the back rail in between
to 3" wide to conceal their telltale 2 × 4 look (for the back legs. Drill a 3⁄8" blade access hole in the inside
best results, rip 1⁄4" off each edge to get rid of the corners of each notch and then cut the notches out with a
bullnose profile milled into most 2 × 4s). Use a table jigsaw. Clean up cuts with a chisel or small profile sander.
saw or a circular saw and edge guide to make the Miter-cut the ends of the back legs at 14° angles.
rip cuts. It is often easier to cut the parts to length Be careful to cut the miters in the correct direction
first and then rip them to width because the shorter so that the notch is on the front edge of the back
boards are more manageable. legs. Miter-cut one end of each seat support to 14°
Use the construction drawings (see page 11) to lay (photo 1). Note: Parallel angled cuts on the ends of a
out the notches, miters, and radius-curve profiles on workpiece are called “plumb cuts.” Miter-cut the bottom
Make plumb cuts on legs . Set the
1 miter saw table to 14° (orient the
blade to the right side of the 90° mark).
Position each back leg so the notch is
facing away from the saw fence and
trim off the right end of the back leg.
Make a parallel 14° miter cut on the
other end.
Attach the seat supports . The seat
2 supports should be attached to the front
rail using exterior wood glue and 21⁄2"
deck screws (use at least two screws
per support).
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end of the back support to 14˚ and cut a 3" radius in the Adjust the positions of the parts so that the front
top back corner. leg is plumb and the arm support is level. Then attach
Cut the front and back rail to length. Mark the the back legs to the outside seat supports and the arm
locations along the back face of the front rail where support to the front and back legs (photo 4).
each seat support will be attached. Attach the seat Cut the table bottom crosspiece to length and width.
supports to the front rail with 21⁄2" screws (photo Attach the back supports to the seat supports with 21⁄2"
2). Rails should be located 11⁄2" and 19" in front of screws (photo 5). In addition, attach the two outside
each end. back supports to the arm supports. This completes the
Apply exterior-rated wood glue to the bottom assembly of the chair frame.
face of each notch. Place the front rail in the front
leg notches and the back rail in the back leg notches. ATTACH THE SEAT & BACK SLATS
Keep the ends of the rails flush with the outside The appearance of your side-by-side chair is greatly
faces of the legs. Attach the rails to the legs with influenced by the uniformity and spacing of the back
screws (photo 3). slats and seat slats. The best way to achieve uniform
Attach the rails . The front rails should
3 be attached to the front legs and the
back rails are attached to the back legs.
Use exterior wood glue and 21⁄2" deck
screws.
Attach the supports and legs .
4 Temporarily clamp the parts together in
the correct orientation and then drive
21⁄2" screws through the inside faces of
the arm supports and seat supports to
attach them to the legs.
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lengths for the slats is to set a stop block for your 2" screws (photo 7). Attach the seat slats to the seat
power miter saw. Use spacers between the slats to supports, again leaving a 1⁄8" gap in between the slats.
ensure regular gaps. For the 1⁄8" gaps required here,
you can use 16d common nails as spacers. ATTACH THE TABLE & ARMREST
Cut all of the back slats and seat slats to length Cut the table posts, table supports, tabletop planks,
(photo 6). Sand the ends prior to installation while and armrests to length. Use a coping saw or jigsaw (an
you still have unrestricted access. Place the slats on oscillating jigsaw is best) to round the front corners of the
the back supports, leaving a 1⁄8" space between slats. outside tabletop planks and armrest. Cut each corner to
Drill two 1⁄8"-diameter pilot holes and countersinks a 1" radius (roughly the same as a can of tomato paste).
through each slat end, centering the holes over the Sand the edges smooth with a power sander. Also use
back support. Attach the slats to the supports with the jigsaw to round the back outside corners of the
Attach the back supports to the
5 arm supports using 21⁄2" deck screws.
Make sure all screw heads are recessed
slightly.
Cut the slats . Set the stop-block
6 Stop Block attachment on your power miter saw
or stand for the correct length. Measure
the first slat to make sure the length
is correct.
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armrests to a 4" radius. Use a compass to mark the and attach the armrests to the arm supports with 2"
4" radius (slightly larger than a 1-gallon paint can). screws. Center the pilot and countersink holes over
Round over the outside edges of the tabletop and the supports.
armrests with a router and 1⁄4" piloted roundover bit. Optional: Drill an umbrella posthole through the
Attach the crosspiece between the two middle seat middle plank (photo 8). The typical patio umbrella
supports. Attach the table posts to the inside face pole diameter is 11⁄2". For increased comfort, order
of the front rail and front face of the table bottom back cushions and seat cushions. A good size for a back
crosspiece with 2" deck screws. Attach the table cushion is 3" thick × 19" square. The seat cushions
supports to the table posts with 2" screws. Finally, should be around 3" deep × 17" long × 19" wide.
attach the tabletop planks to the table supports with
2" screws, leaving a 1⁄8" space between the planks,
Fasten the slats . Use 16d nails or
7 scraps of wood as spacers for a 1⁄8" gap.
If you’re using a cordless drill/driver
with adjustable torque, set the clutch at
a very low setting to prevent overdriving
the screws. Drive two 2" screws through
each end of the slat and into the back
support.
Drill a hole for the optional umbrella
8 post. Here, the 11⁄2"-dia. posthole is
located 83⁄4" from the back edge of the
tabletop (on center) and is centered
across the middle plank. A 11⁄2"-dia. hole
saw chucked into your drill is the best
tool for making the pole hole.
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Classic Adirondack Chair
A dirondack furniture has become a standard on
decks, porches, and patios throughout the world.
It’s no mystery that this distinctive furniture style has
the chair. White, battleship gray, and forest green
are popular color choices for Adirondack furniture.
Be sure to use quality exterior paint with a glossy or
become so popular. Attractive but rugged design and enamel finish.
unmatched stability are just two of the reasons for its
timeless appeal, and our Adirondack chair offers these
benefits and more.
Unlike most of the Adirondack chair designs Materials ▸
you’re likely to run across, this one is very easy to
build. There are no complex compound angles to cut, 1 2 × 6" × 8 ft. cedar Moisture-resistant
no intricate details in the back and seat slats, and no board glue
complicated joints. It can be built with basic tools and 1 2 × 4" × 12 ft. cedar Deck screws (11⁄4",
simple techniques. And because this design features board 11⁄2", 2", 3")
all of the classic Adirondack chair elements, your 1 1 × 6" × 14 ft. cedar 3
⁄8 × 21⁄2" lag screws
guests and neighbors may never guess that you built it board with washers
yourself (but you’ll be proud to tell them you did). 1 1 × 4" × 8 ft. cedar Finishing materials
We made our Adirondack chair out of cedar and board
finished it with clear wood sealer. But you may prefer 1 1 × 2" × 12 ft. cedar
to build your version from pine (a traditional wood for board
Adirondack furniture), especially if you plan to paint
This straightforward example of
an Adirondack chair design is nicely
proportioned and very easy to build
from dimensional cedar lumber. Bright
paint (usually red or forest green) is a
common finish for Adirondack chairs.
Or, you may choose to apply a clear
finish to show off the warm cedar
wood (inset photo).
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Classic Adirondack Chair
1"
3 1⁄4"
E
G L
5 1⁄ 2" N M
10"
26" L M
30"
G
Front View
F
K
J
K
K J
D B
C
H
A
I
1 1⁄ 2"
41"
H 23 1⁄4"
36 1⁄ 2"
1 3⁄4" Radius Side View
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Legs 11⁄2 × 51⁄2 × 341⁄2" 2 Cedar H Posts 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 22" 2 Cedar
B Apron 1 ⁄2 × 5 ⁄2 × 21"
1 1
1 Cedar I Arm braces 11⁄2 × 21⁄4 × 10" 2 Cedar
C Seat support 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 18" 1 Cedar J Narrow seat slats 3
⁄4 × 11⁄2 × 201⁄4" 2 Cedar
D Low back brace 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 18" 1 Cedar K Wide seat slats 3
⁄4 × 5 ⁄2 × 20 ⁄4"
1 1
3 Cedar
E High back brace 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄2 × 18"
1
1 Cedar L End back slats 3
⁄4 × 3 ⁄2 × 36"
1
2 Cedar
F Arm cleat 1 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 24"
1 1
1 Cedar M Narrow back slats 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄2 × 38"
1
2 Cedar
G Arms 3
⁄4 × 5 ⁄2 × 28"
1
2 Cedar N Center back slat 3
⁄4 × 5 ⁄2 × 40"
1
1 Cedar
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■ Classic Adirondack Chair
MAKE THE LEGS deck screw counterbores, drill holes 1⁄8" deep with a
Sprawling back legs that support the seat slats and counterbore bit. Cut the apron and seat support to size.
stretch to the ground on a near-horizontal plane are Attach the apron to the front ends of the legs with glue
signature features of the Adirondack style. Start by and 3" deck screws.
cutting the legs to length. To cut the tapers, mark a Position the seat support so the inside face is
point 2" from the edge on one end of the board. Then, 161⁄2" from the inside edge of the apron. Attach the
mark another point 6" from the end on the adjacent seat support between the legs, making sure the part
edge. Connect the points with a straightedge. On the tops are flush. Cut the seat slats to length, and sand
same end, mark a point 21⁄4" from the other edge. Then, the ends smooth. Arrange the slats on top of the seat
on that edge mark a point 10" from the end. Connect box, and use wood scraps to set 5⁄8" spaces between
these points to make a cutting line for the other taper. the slats. The slats should overhang the front of the
Cut the two taper cuts with a circular saw. Use the seat box by 3⁄4".
tapered leg as a template to mark and cut identical Fasten the seat slats by drilling counterbored
tapers on the other leg of the chair (photo 1). pilot holes and driving 2" deck screws through the
holes and into the tops of the apron and seat support.
BUILD THE SEAT Keep the counterbores aligned so the cedar plugs
The legs form the sides of the box frame, which used to fill the counterbores form straight lines across
supports the seat slats. Where the text calls for the front and back of the seat. Once the slats are
Cut tapers into the back edges of the
1 legs with a circular saw or jigsaw.
Round the sharp slat edges with
2 a router and roundover bit or simply
break the edges by sanding with a
power sander.
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installed, use a router with a 1⁄4" roundover bit (or a 5
⁄8" spacing between slats. The untrimmed ends of the
power sander) to smooth the outside edges and ends slats should be flush with the bottom edge of the low
of the slats (photo 2). back brace. The bottom of the high back brace should
be 26" above the top of the low brace. The braces
MAKE THE BACK SLATS must be perpendicular to the slats.
The back slats are made from three sizes of dimension Drill pilot holes in the low brace and counterbore
lumber: 1 × 2, 1 × 4, and 1 × 6. Cut the back slats to the holes. Then, attach the slats to the low brace by
length. Trim off the corners on the widest (1 × 6) slat. driving 2" deck screws through the holes. Follow the
First, mark points 1" in from the outside top corners. same steps for the high brace and attach the slats with
Then, mark points 1" down from the corners on the 11⁄4" deck screws.
outside edges. Connect the points and trim along the
lines with a saw. Mark the 1 × 4 slats 2" from one top MAKE THE ARMS
corner in both directions. Draw cutting lines and trim The broad arms of the chair, cut from 1 × 6 material,
the same way (these are the outer slats on the back). are supported by posts in front and the arm cleat
attached to the backs of the chair slats. Cut the arms
ATTACH THE BACK SLATS to length. To create decorative angles at the outer
Cut the low back brace and the high back brace and end of each arm, mark points 1" from each corner
set them on a flat surface. Slip 3⁄4"-thick spacers under along both edges. Use the points to draw a pair of 11⁄2"
the high brace so the tops of the braces are level. cutting lines on each arm. Cut along the lines using a
Then, arrange the back slats on top of the braces with jigsaw or circular saw.
3
Attach the square ends of the posts to the undersides of the arms, being careful to position the part correctly.
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Mark points for cutting a tapered cut on the Cut the posts to size. Then, use a compass to
inside back edge of each arm (see Diagram page 17). mark a 13⁄4"-radius roundover cut on each bottom post
First, mark points 31⁄4" in from each inside edge on the corner (the roundovers improve stability). Position the
back of each arm. Next, mark the outside edges 10" arms on top of the square ends of the posts. The posts
from the back. Then, connect the points and cut along should be set back 11⁄2" from the front ends of the arm
the cutting line with a circular saw or jigsaw. Sand the and 1" from the inside edge of the arm. Fasten the
edges smooth. arms to the posts with glue. Drill pilot holes in the
arms and counterbore the holes. Then, drive 3" deck
ASSEMBLE THE ARMS, CLEATS & POSTS screws through the arms and into the posts (photo 3).
Cut the arm cleat and make a mark 21⁄2" in from each Cut tapered arm braces from wood scraps, making
end of the cleat. Set the cleat on edge on your work sure the wood grain runs lengthwise. Position an arm
surface. Position the arms on the cleat top edge so brace at the outside of each arm/post joint, centered
the arm back ends are flush with the cleat back, and side to side on the post. Attach each brace with glue.
the untapered edge of each arm is aligned with the Drill counterbored pilot holes in the inside face
21⁄2" mark. Fasten the arms to the cleats with glue. of the post near the top . Then, drive deck screws
Drill pilot holes in the arms and counterbore the through the holes and into the brace (photo 4). Drive
holes. Drive 3" deck screws through the holes and a 2" deck screw down through each arm and into the
into the cleat. top of the brace.
Drive screws through each post and
4 into an arm brace to stabilize the arm/
post joint.
Clamp wood braces to the parts of
5 the chair to hold them in position while
you fasten the parts together.
Wooden
Brace
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ASSEMBLE THE CHAIR back so the low back brace is between the legs and the
To complete the construction, join the back, seat/ slats are resting against the front of the arm cleat. Clamp
leg assembly, and arm/post assembly. Before you the back to the seat support with a C-clamp, making sure
start, gather scrap wood to brace the parts while you the low brace top edge is flush with the tops of the legs.
fasten them. Tighten the lag screws at the post/leg joints. Then,
Set the seat/leg assembly on your work surface, add a second lag screw at each joint. Drill three evenly
clamping a piece of scrap wood to the front apron to raise spaced pilot holes near the top edge of the arm cleat and
the assembly front until the leg bottoms are flush on the drive 11⁄2" deck screws through the holes and into the
surface (about 10"). Use a similar technique to brace back slats (photo 6). Drive 3" deck screws through the
the arm/post assembly so the back cleat bottom is 20" legs and into the ends of the low back brace.
above the work surface. Arrange the assembly so the
posts fit around the front of the seat/leg assembly and the APPLY FINISHING TOUCHES
bottom edge of the apron is flush with the front edges of Cut or buy 1⁄4"-thick, 3⁄8"-diameter cedar wood plugs
the posts. and glue them into visible counterbores (photo 7).
Drill a 1⁄4"-diameter pilot hole through the inside of After the glue dries, sand the plugs even with the
each leg and partway into the post. Drive a 3⁄8 × 21⁄2" lag surrounding surface. Finish-sand all exposed surfaces
screw and washer through each hole, but do not tighten with 120-grit sandpaper. Finish the chair as desired;
completely (photo 5). Remove the braces. Position the we simply applied a coat of clear wood sealer.
Drive screws through counterbored
6 pilot holes in the arm cleat, near the top
and into the slats. Check to make sure
they did not penetrate the back slats on
the seat side.
Glue cedar plugs into the
7 counterbores to conceal the screw
holes.
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Slatted Garden Bench
C asual seating is a welcome addition to any outdoor
setting. This lovely garden bench sits comfortably
around the borders of any porch, patio, or deck. With
Materials ▸
a compact footprint, it creates a pleasant resting spot 1 2 × 8" × 6 ft. cedar 1 2 × 2" × 6 ft. cedar
for up to three adults without taking up a lot of space. board board
Station it near your home’s rear entry for a convenient 4 2 × 2" × 10 ft. cedar 1 1 × 4" × 12 ft. cedar
place to remove shoes or set down grocery bags while boards board
you unlock the door. 1 2 × 4" × 6 ft. cedar Moisture-resistant glue
The straightforward, slatted design of this bench board Wood sealer or stain
lends itself to accessorizing. Station a rustic cedar 1 2 × 6" × 10 ft. cedar Deck screws (11⁄2",
planter next to the bench for a lovely effect. Or, add board 21⁄2")
a framed lattice trellis to one side of the bench to cut
down on wind and direct sun. You can apply exterior
stain or a clear wood sealer with UV protectant to
keep the bench looking fresh and new. Or, leave it
unfinished and let it weather naturally to a silvery hue.
Graceful lines and trestle construction make this bench a charming furnishing for any garden as well as porches, patios, and
decks.
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Slatted Garden Bench
F
4"
3"
C
E
3"
B
B
D
A
A
B
B
A
A
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Leg halves 1 ⁄2 × 7 ⁄4 × 14 ⁄2"
1 1 1
4 Cedar
B Cleats 3
⁄4 × 31⁄2 × 16" 8 Cedar
C Braces 11⁄2 × 11⁄2 × 16" 3 Cedar
D Trestle 1 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 60"
1 1
1 Cedar
E Aprons 1 ⁄2 × 5 ⁄2 × 60"
1 1
2 Cedar
F Slats 1 ⁄2 × 1 ⁄2 × 60"
1 1
8 Cedar
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■ Slatted Garden Bench
BUILD THE BASE with the cleats using glue and 21⁄2" deck screws
Cut the leg halves, cleats, and trestle to length. (photo 2). Cut the braces to length. Fasten one
Sandwich one leg half between two cleats so the brace to the inner top cleat on each leg assembly, so
cleats are flush with the top and the outside edge the tops are flush (photo 3).
of the leg half. Then, join the parts by driving four
11⁄2" deck screws through each cleat and into the leg MAKE THE APRONS
half. Assemble two more cleats with a leg half in the Cut the aprons to length. Lay out the arc profile onto
same fashion. one apron, starting 3" from each end. The peak of the
Stand the two assemblies on their sides, with the arc, located over the midpoint of the apron, should be
open ends of the cleats pointing upward. Arrange the 11⁄2" up from the bottom edge. Draw a smooth, even
assemblies so they are roughly 4 feet apart. Set the arc by driving a casing nail at the peak of the arc and
trestle onto the inner edges of the leg halves, pressed at each of the starting points. Slip a flexible ruler or
flush against the bottoms of the cleats. Adjust the strip of thin plywood or hardboard behind the nails at
position of the assemblies so the trestle overhangs the the starting points and in front of the nail at the peak
leg half by 11⁄2" at each end. Fasten the trestle to each to create a smooth arc. Then, trace along the inside of
leg half with glue and 21⁄2" deck screws (photo 1). the ruler to make a cutting line (photo 4). Cut along
Attach another pair of cleats to each leg half the line with a jigsaw and sand the cut smooth. Trace
directly below the first pair, positioned so each cleat the profile of the arc onto the other apron and make
is snug against the bottom of the trestle. Slide the the cut. Sand the cuts smooth.
other leg half between the cleats, keeping the top Cut the slats to length. Attach a slat to the top inside
edge flush with the upper cleats. Join the leg halves edge of each apron with glue and deck screws (photo 5).
1 2 3
Attach the trestle to the legs, making Attach the remaining leg half to the Attach the outer brace for the seat
sure it is positioned correctly against the cleats on both ends, sandwiching the slats directly to the inside faces of the
top cleat bottoms. trestle on all sides. cleats.
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4 5
Mark the profile cuts on the aprons. Use a flexible ruler Attach a 2 x 2 slat to the top inside edge of each apron
pinned between casing nails to trace a smooth arc. using 21⁄2" deck screws and glue.
INSTALL THE APRONS & SLATS 6
Apply glue at each end on the bottom sides of the
attached slats. Flip the leg and trestle assembly and
position it flush with the aprons so that it rests on the
glue of the two slatted bottoms. The aprons should
extend 11⁄2" beyond the legs at each end of the bench.
Drive 21⁄2" deck screws through the braces and into
both slats.
Position the middle brace between the aprons,
centered end-to-end on the project. Fasten it to the
two side slats with deck screws. Position the six
remaining slats on the braces using 1⁄2"-thick spacers
to create equal gaps between them. Attach the slats
with glue and drive 21⁄2" deck screws up through the
braces and into each slat (photo 6).
APPLY FINISHING TOUCHES
Sand the slats smooth with progressively finer
sandpaper, up to 150-grit. Wipe away the sanding
residue with a rag dipped in mineral spirits. Let the
bench dry. Apply a finish of your choice—a clear wood Attach the seat slats with glue and 21⁄2" deck screws. Insert
sealer protects the cedar without altering the color. 1
⁄2"-thick spacers to set gaps between the slats.
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Knockdown Garden Bench
S noopy shoppers at your local home center will
never guess you’re building a garden bench when
they spot your cart full of materials for this project.
The sturdy combination of crossing half joints and
hefty parts creates a very solid bench. But it’s also a
very heavy bench. Fortunately, this type of joinery also
That’s because the materials for this garden bench eliminates the need for many fasteners, making it easy
are more typical for a backyard deck. Concrete to disassemble the bench into pieces so you can move
foundation blocks and beefy dimensional lumber it around your yard as you please and reassemble it
may suggest decks, but here they are combined to quickly and easily.
create a contemporary, Eastern-influenced garden
bench. Featuring interlocking joinery (in the finest
Asian tradition) and minimal use of metal fasteners,
this bench is reminiscent of the post-and-beam
construction featured in many ancient Japanese Materials ▸
timberframe structures.
The precast concrete piers, designed to hold a deck 1 2 × 6" × 8 ft. cedar 4 Precast concrete
undercarriage, are dressed up with stain to function as board deck piers
tapered concrete bench legs. The seat is made from 2 2 × 8" × 8 ft. cedar 2 ⁄2" exterior-rated
1
deck posts and typical joist lumber (4 × 4s and 2 × boards screws
10s). You only need a few power tools to build this 1 2 × 10" × 8 ft. cedar Exterior wood stain
bench—a circular saw, jigsaw, and drill/driver. A couple board Concrete stain
of additional tools can speed up the construction: a 4 4 × 4" × 8 ft. cedar
12" miter saw, because of its capacity to cut 4 × 4s in a boards
single pass, and a router to round over the cut edges.
Because the principal parts of this unique garden bench fit together with no mechanical fasteners, it can be disassembled and
moved around your yard with little effort.
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Garden Bench.eps
Artist Date Initials Date
03/24/2009
Accurate Art, Inc.
Check if revision CE's review
BxW 2/C 4/C OK Correx
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
Initials Date
44w x 36d
Knockdown Garden Bench
D
4"
C
C A
B
A
E
B
E
E
E
D
2 1⁄4"
11"
2" Radius
1 1⁄2"
C
4"
3"
B A
3"
B
End Detail A
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Cross supports 11⁄2 × 91⁄4 × 22" 2 Cedar
B Cross support braces 1 ⁄2 × 5 ⁄2 × 14"
1 1
4 Cedar
C Seat front and back 1 ⁄2 × 7 ⁄4 × 72"
1 1
2 Cedar
D Seat beams 3 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 70"
1 1
4 Cedar
E Base piers 6 ⁄2 × 10 ⁄2 × 10 ⁄2" 4
1 1 1
Concrete
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■ Knockdown Garden Bench
MAKE THE CROSS SUPPORTS of the notches that will fit over the cross supports.
The cross supports are the notched end pieces that Drill 3⁄8"-diameter jigsaw blade starter holes at an
support the seat beams. Cut them to length from inside corner of each notch. Next, cut out the notches
2 × 10 stock. Also cut the cross support braces to length with a jigsaw.
from 2 × 6 stock (these sandwich the cross supports, to Draw a concave, 6" radius line on each bottom
prevent the cross supports from rocking). Outline the corner of each front and back part to create cutting
notches that will hold the front and back onto the cross lines for decorative scallops with refined profiles.
supports. Drill 3⁄8"-diameter starter holes for the jigsaw Draw a 2"-radius roundover line (convex) at each
blade, located inside one corner of each notch area. top corner. Sand the cuts smooth and round over the
Cut out the notches with a jigsaw (photo 1). Scribe outside edges of the seat front and back pieces with a
2" radius lines on the outside corners of the cross router and 1⁄4"-radius roundover bit.
supports, and cut along the radius lines with a jigsaw. The front and back parts also have shallow arcs
Sand the corner radius cuts smooth, and round over the cut into the bottoms. To lay out these arcs, mark
outside edges of the cross supports with a router and a center point (end to end) 4" down from the top
1
⁄4"-radius piloted roundover bit (photo 2). of each workpiece and then drive a screw halfway
into each center point. Mark the end points of the
MAKE THE SEAT FRONT & BACK arc (191⁄2" from each end) and then bend a 40" long
Cut the seat front and back pieces to length and width flexible piece of scrap wood or metal over the screw to
from 2 × 8 stock. These parts need to be cut with form the arc profile. Trace the arc profile (photo 3).
multiple profiles, including roundovers on the top, Next, cut along the radius and arc profile lines, and
scallops on the bottom, and notches to mate with the then sand the arcs smooth. Ease the edges with your
notches in the cross supports. First, mark the outlines router and roundover bit.
1 2
Cut the notches in the cross supports. Drill a starter hole for Round over the part edges . Ease the outside edges of the
your jigsaw blade in one corner of each notch. Clean up the cross supports with a router and 1⁄4" roundover bit. Leave the
edges of the notch with a chisel, if necessary. edges of the cross-support notches square.
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3
Draw the bottom profile arcs . Bend a scrap piece of wood or metal across a screw or nail to form the arc profile along the
bottom edges of the front and back. Trace the arc with a marker.
Precast Concrete Piers ▸
Precast concrete piers are designed for
use with platform-style decks that are not
attached to a structure. Individual piers
measure roughly 8" high and are 11" square
at the base. They weigh 45 pounds each.
The cast top channels are sized to accept
standard 2× dimensional lumber. If you
will not be moving the bench around, it’s
a good idea to prepare a few inches of
compactable gravel as a base for each pier
to help with stability and drainage.
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MAKE THE SEAT BEAMS The concrete piers can also be stained with
The space between the seat front and back is filled concrete stain to blend in better with the wood bench
with seat beams cut from 4 × 4 stock. This helps keep parts. Apply a concrete stain to all surfaces of each of
the weight (and cost) of the project down, compared the concrete base piers (photo 6).
to using solid 2 × 8s all the way across. Cut the seat
beams to length and width. Clamp the seat beams ASSEMBLE THE BENCH
together and mark the notch edge lines across the Position the top edge of each cross support brace
tops of all four beams. Set your circular saw blade between the cross support notches and 21⁄4" below
depth to 21⁄4" and make several crosscuts between the the top edge of the cross support. Attach the cross
notch layout lines to remove waste material (photo support braces with 21⁄2" exterior screws (photo 7).
4). Smooth the saw kerf edges remaining in the notch These are the only mechanical connections you need
bottoms (photo 5) with a chisel and wood mallet to make.
(don’t use a hammer). Place the four concrete piers in the location
where the bench will be set up. Position the piers in
STAIN THE BENCH PARTS pairs that are approximately 3 feet apart. Place one
Apply exterior-rated wood stain to all of the wood support brace across each side pair of concrete piers.
parts. Redwood and cedar tones are traditional colors, Place the seat front and back on the cross supports.
but for a look that’s more appropriate to the design, Shift the concrete piers and cross supports until the
try using a dark stain color. A penetrating, semi- notches align. Place the seat beams between the front
transparent wood stain is easy to apply and gives the and back pieces (photo 8). Adjust the parts so that all
wood a durable finish. notches seat fully on the adjoining parts.
4 5
Cut notches into the seat beams . Remove waste material Smooth out the notches . Use a sharp wood chisel and
from the notch area by making multiple kerf cuts with a mallet to clean up the ridges and edges left in the notch
circular saw set to 21⁄4" cutting depth. bottom after cutting the kerf.
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6 7
Color the parts . Apply a coat of dark concrete stain to Make the cross support assemblies . Attach the cross
the precast concrete piers. Follow the stain manufacturer's support braces on each side of the cross support using 21⁄2"
instructions for application and dry time. Stain the wood parts deck screws. Drill 1⁄8" pilot holes for the screws to minimize the
a matching or complementary dark wood tone with exterior chance of wood splitting.
wood stain.
8
Assemble the bench . Transport the parts to the location where the bench will be installed. Set the supports onto the piers and
then position the bench into the notches in the supports. Adjust the component positions until all of the notches are fully seated.
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Sling-Back Adirondack
N amed for the region of New York State where
this classic design originated about 100 years
ago, the Adirondack chair is an iconic piece of
The most unique feature of this chair is the canvas
seat. Select a material that is weather resistant and will
not stretch. The top and bottom edges of the canvas are
American outdoor furniture. Through the years exposed, so they must be hemmed (a custom tailor or
countless Adirondack variations have been built, all interior designer can do this for you). A simple straight-
featuring the trademark wide arms, slanted seat, and stitch hem is all that is required. The hemmed canvas
slanted backrest that define the style. The version is secured between two wood rails and can be easily
shown here combines those tried-and-true frame removed for storage, cleaning, or replacing.
proportions with the laid-back comfort of a sling-
back canvas beach chair to create an Adirondack Materials ▸
chair that borrows from multiple design sources.
The parts are fastened with stainless steel 4 3⁄4 × 5" × 8 ft. 2 1⁄4"-dia. × 31⁄2"
screws. Stainless steel is an excellent material for white oak boards machine screws
outdoor use because it does not corrode or stain 1 60 × 50" canvas 14 1⁄4"-dia. finish
wood, but it is softer than hardened steel so it’s (10 ounce) washers
necessary to drill a pilot hole for every screw to Wood screws (11⁄4", 2") 14 1⁄4"-dia. washers
prevent stripping the head or breaking the shaft. No. 10 finish washers 14 1⁄4"-dia. locknuts
Stainless steel finish washers (sometimes referred to 12 1⁄4"-dia. × 3"
as decorative washers) are used under the heads of machine screws
all exposed screws.
Adirondack chairs are classic backyard furnishings. No two designs are exactly alike, but the form is instantly recognizable even
when it has a unique feature like the canvas seat on this interpretation.
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Sling-Back Adirondack
2 1⁄ 2"
D Canvas E
B
B B/A 3
⁄4"
K,L 21"
M
5 ⁄ 2"
1
5 1⁄ 2"
2"
H Radius 5" Front Leg
G
H 1 1⁄ 2"
Radius
I
C
N
F A 15"
I
A
J H
E
15"
E
Back Leg Armrest
3 1⁄ 2" 2"
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material Key Parts Dimension Pcs. Material
A Back legs 3
⁄4 × 5 × 36" 2 White oak H Armrests 3
⁄4 × 51⁄2 × 28" 2 White oak
B Backrests 3
⁄4 × 4 × 40" 2 White oak I Corbels 3
⁄4 × 4 × 7" 2 White oak
C Back leg braces 3
⁄4 × 2 ⁄2 × 22 ⁄2"
1 1
2 White oak J Front rail 3
⁄4 × 5 ⁄2 × 24"
1
1 White oak
D Backrest braces 3
⁄4 × 21⁄2 × 21" 2 White oak K Back canvas rails 3
⁄4 × 2 × 333⁄4" 4 White oak
E Front legs 3
⁄4 × 21⁄2 × 21" 2 White oak L Seat canvas rails 3
⁄4 × 2 × 16" 4 White oak
F Front leg brace 3
⁄4 × 5 ⁄2 × 25 ⁄2"
1 1
1 White oak M Back canvas 33 ⁄2 × 37 ⁄4 "
1 3
1 Canvas (10 ounce)
G Armrest supports 3
⁄4 × 2 ⁄2 × 26"
1
2 White oak N Seat canvas 32 × 17" 1 Canvas (10 ounce)
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■ Sling-Back Adirondack Chair
CUT THE PARTS back edge that is 2" from the inside edge to a point on
Cut all of the wood chair parts to length first and then the outside edge that is 15" from the front edge. The
rip-cut them to width on a table saw or with a circular front corners are 11⁄2"-radius. Use a jigsaw to cut along
saw and straightedge cutting guide (photo 1). If the armrest layout lines. Miter-cut the back end of the
you are using random-width, rough-sawn hardwood, armrest supports to 27°.
square it and plane it to thickness before cutting it to The final frame parts to cut are the corbels that
length. Rip-cut all parts that share the same width at support the outside edge of the armrest. Cut the two
the same time: the armrests and front rails are 51⁄2" corbels to length and then draw the arc profile on each
wide; the back legs are 5" wide; the backrests and corbel and cut along the arc line with a jigsaw.
corbels are 4" wide; the back leg braces, backrest
braces, front legs, and armrest supports are all 21⁄2" ASSEMBLE THE FRAME
wide; and the back and seat canvas rails are 2" wide. Sand all faces of every workpiece smooth before
Draw the back leg outline on each back leg blank beginning the assembly process. Attach the backrests
(photo 2). Use the construction drawing (page 33). to the back legs with 11⁄4" stainless steel screws
Cut along the back leg layout lines with a jigsaw. (photo 4). The backrest should be square with the
Clamp the front legs together face-to-face and use top edge of the back half of the back leg. Attach the
a router and 1⁄2"-diameter straight bit to cross-cut the backrest braces to the backrests with 2" stainless steel
notch that holds the front rail in the front leg (photo screws and finish washers (photo 5).
3). Clamp stop blocks to the legs at a distance from Clamp the front leg brace to the front legs,
the notch edges equal to the distance from the edge of keeping both legs perpendicular to the brace. Drill two
the router bit to the edge of the router base plate. countersunk pilot holes through each side of the brace
Draw the armrest shape on the armrests (see and into the legs. Attach the brace to the legs with 2"
drawing, page 33). The arc runs from a point on the stainless steel screws and finish washers. Clamp the
1 2
Dimension your lumber . If you purchased sanded-four-side Lay out the parts . Use the back leg layout pattern on the
(S4S) stock, you will only need to rip it to the correct widths construction drawing as a reference for marking the outline of
after you cut the parts to length. the back legs on the back leg blanks.
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armrest supports to the front legs. The front and top
edges of the front brace are flush with the front and 3
top edges of the front legs. Drill two countersunk pilot
holes and attach the parts with 11⁄4" stainless steel
screws and finish washers. Hold the front leg assembly
upright and place the back legs on the front leg brace.
Adjust the back leg assembly until the angled back edge
of the arm support is flush with the back edge of the
backrest and the front leg is plumb. Clamp the armrest
support to the backrest and attach the leg assemblies
with 11⁄4" stainless screws (photo 6). Attach the back
leg braces to the back legs with 2" stainless steel screws
and finish washers. Drill two countersunk pilot holes
through each back leg and into each brace.
Clamp the corbel to the front of the front leg and
Remove material
armrest support. Align the top and inside edges of the between layout lines
three parts. Drill one countersunk pilot hole through
the corbel and into the front leg. Drill a second
countersunk pilot hole through the corbel and into the
end of the armrest support. Attach each corbel with
two 2" stainless steel screws and finish nails (photo
7). Attach the armrests to the armrest supports with
Cut the leg notches . Clamp a straightedge to each side of
three 2" screws. Attach the front rail to the front edges the front leg notch layout lines to function as stops for your
of the back legs with 2" screws. Apply an exterior router. Cut the front leg notch in several passes with a router,
wood finish to the frame. lowering the bit with each pass.
4 5
Join the legs and backrest . First, clamp the backrests Install the backrest braces . Space the backrest braces
and the back legs together. Drill two pilot holes through the 333⁄4" apart with the top backrest brace flush with the top of
backrest and into each back leg. Drive 11⁄4" stainless steel the backrests and the backs flush.
screws with finish washers.
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ATTACH THE CANVAS SEAT & BACK of the canvas so the canvas top edge is centered
The sling-style seat and back canvas panels are lengthwise under the rail. Roll the rail and canvas
secured to the frame by rolling one side of the back onto the fabric two full turns (photo 8). Clamp
canvas around one rail and then sandwiching that another seat canvas rail on top of the fabric with
rail between a second rail and the backrest. Machine edges flush. Connect the rails with three 11⁄4" screws
screws secure the rails to the backrest. Cut the (photo 9). Repeat the process of rolling the canvas
seat and back canvas rails to length if you have not and attaching the second rail for the other lower edge
already cut them. Cut the canvas seat and back to of the seat canvas.
size, keeping the factory-seamed edges in the Clamp the seat canvas rails and canvas to the back
exposed position when possible. With the right side legs with the fronts of the canvas rails flush against
on a table, fold up 1⁄4" of material along one long side the front rail. Drill 1⁄4"-diameter pilot holes through the
of the canvas and then press. Fold the fabric over front legs, back legs, and seat canvas rails. Attach the
again 1⁄2" and press for a finished, straight edge. canvas rails with 1⁄4"-diameter machine screws, finish
Hand- or machine-stitch a 3⁄8" hem. Repeat for the washers, and lock nuts (photo 10). Repeat the same
other side. With the seat canvas still right side down process to attach the back canvas to the back canvas
on a table, align one of the seat canvas rails on top rails and then to the backrests (photo 11).
Attach the armrest supports . Drive
6 two 11⁄4" screws through the inside
faces of the back legs and two 11⁄4"
screws through the inside faces of the
backrests. Locate these screws 1" from
the bottom edge of the back legs and 1"
from the back edge of the backrests.
Attach the corbels . Drive two 2"
7 screws through the top of the corbel
and into the armrest support. Drill a pilot
hole for each screw.
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8 9
Wrap the seat rail by rolling the top and bottom edges Secure the canvas between rails . Sandwich the canvas
of the seat canvas around one of the seat canvas rails. The between the two rails and fasten the rails together with
canvas sides should be hemmed by this point if they are not screws. Drill pilot holes and countersink the holes for each
factory edges. screw.
10 11
Canvas rail
Machine screws
Brace leg
Front leg
Attach the front canvas rails . Run one 31⁄2" machine screw Attach the back canvas rails . Use four 3" machine screws
through the front leg, back leg, and seat canvas rails. Run two per side to attach the back canvas rails to the backrest.
3" machine screws through the back leg and canvas rails.
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Porch Swing
A beautiful evening outdoors gets a little better when
you’re sitting and enjoying it from a porch swing.
The gentle, rhythmic motion of the swing is a relaxing
This porch swing can be hung from eyehooks in a
porch ceiling that features sufficient structural framing,
including joists that are no smaller than 2 × 8. Or, you
coda to any stressful day. can hang it in a variety of locations from a freestanding
Essentially, a porch swing is a garden bench with porch swing stand. The swing stand shown on pages 46
chains instead of legs. Like garden benches, swings can to 51 is designed to complement this swing.
be built to suit just about any style. Also like garden
benches, too often the style of a porch swing comes at
the expense of comfort. In fact, if you were to test each
of the thousands of porch swing designs in existence,
you might be amazed to discover how many are simply
Materials ▸
not comfortable. This porch swing was designed with
both style and comfort in mind. It sits a bit deeper than 2 1 × 6" × 8 ft. cedar Eyebolts (exterior):
many other versions and the back is pitched at just the boards 2 @ 3⁄8 × 31⁄2"
right angle. Another key to its comfort is that the back 1 5⁄4" × 12 ft. cedar 2 @ 3⁄8 × 61⁄2"
rails don’t extend all the way down to the seat slats, deck board 8 3⁄8"-dia. washers
creating open space that is ergonomically important. 4 2 × 4" × 8 ft. cedar Finishing materials
Despite the custom appearance of this porch Deck screws 4 3⁄8"-dia. locknuts
swing, it is actually built from common 7⁄8" cedar (21⁄2", 3")
boards, 5⁄4" cedar deck boards, and cedar 2× lumber.
This cedar swing is roomy enough for two but compact enough to hang from either a stand or a front porch ceiling. Made of
cedar, it is lightweight yet durable and moisture-resistant.
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Porch Swing.eps
Artist Date Initials Date
02/25/2009
Accurate Art, Inc.
Check if revision CE's review
BxW 2/C 4/C OK Correx
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
Initials Date
44w x 36d
Porch Swing
K
L
M
E F
F
H
H D
C G J I J J G
A
B
I
7"
4"
1" 1 1⁄ 2"
3 1⁄ 2"
Centerline
K
1" Back Rail Profile
15° 3" Radius
H
21 1⁄ 2"
Back Post
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Seat supports 11⁄2 × 31⁄4 × 171⁄2" 3 Cedar H Back posts 11⁄2 × 3 × 211⁄2" 2 Cedar
B Front rail 1 ⁄2 × 3 × 68"
1
1 Cedar I Seat slats ⁄8 × 2 ⁄8 × 48"
7 3
2 Cedar
C Back rail 1 ⁄2 × 2 ⁄2 × 48"
1 1
1 Cedar J Seat slats ⁄8 × 5 × 48"
7
3 Cedar
D Front posts 11⁄2 × 21⁄2 × 113⁄4" 2 Cedar K Top back rail ⁄8 × 51⁄2 × 54"
7
1 Cedar
E Arm supports 1 ⁄4 × 2 × 22"
1
2 Cedar L Middle back rail ⁄8 × 2 × 52"
7
1 Cedar
F Armrests 1 ⁄4 × 5 ⁄2 × 24 ⁄4"
1 1 1
2 Cedar M Bottom back rail ⁄8 × 3 × 52"
7
1 Cedar
G Arm fronts 1 ⁄4 × 3 ⁄4 × 9 ⁄4 "
1 1 1
2 Cedar
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■ Porch Swing
BUILD THE SEAT FRAME each support, the thickness of the part drops to 13⁄4".
Make the workpieces for the seat supports by cutting At the back end the part should be 21⁄2" from top to
three 171⁄2" lengths of 2 × 4. Cedar is shown here; you bottom and at the front end it should peak at 31⁄4"
can also use treated pine if you want a natural wood and then drop down slightly over the last inch. Plot
finish or untreated SPF (spruce, pine, or fir) if you plan the profile so the tops of the part follow straight lines
to paint the swing. Lay out the seat-support profile that conform to the width of the slats that will rest on
on one of the seat support pieces (photo 1) using the them. The back edge of the part should be mitered at
diagram on page 39 as a reference. The seat support 15° to follow the backrest angle. Cut along the layout
is scooped on the top edge so the seat slats follow a line with a jigsaw and then use the first seat support
comfortable flow. At the low point in the middle of as a template to trace the profile onto the remaining
Lay out the parts . Plot the seat
1 support profile onto one of the
seat support workpieces using the
dimensions given on page 39 as
a reference.
Cut the front rail end profiles . Use
2 a compass to draw the front rail end
radius and cut along these lines with a
jigsaw. Sand the cuts smooth.
Seat rail
2" Radius
1" Radius Top
Bottom
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two seat supports. Also use the jigsaw to cut out to 21⁄2" wide. Attach the seat supports to the seat front
the second and third seat supports. Gang the seat and back rails with 3" deck screws (photo 3).
supports together with clamps and sand the profiles all
at the same time so they are exactly the same. ATTACH THE BACK & ARM SUPPORTS
Make the seat front rail by cutting a 2 × 4 to 68" Cut a pair of 113⁄4" lengths of cedar 2 × 4 and rip-cut
long and rip-cutting 1⁄4" off each edge to remove the these pieces to 21⁄2" wide to make the front posts. Drill
rounded edges, leaving a workpiece that’s 3" wide. On counterbored pilot holes and attach the front posts
the front face of the front rail first mark a 2" radius on to the front rail and outside seat supports with 21⁄2"
the bottom corners and then draw a 1" radius on the deck screws (photo 4). Note: Counterbore pilot holes
top corners. Cut along the corner radius lines with a for all structural joints. If you’re looking to save a bit
jigsaw (photo 2). Make the seat back rail by cutting of time, consider attaching the seat slats with screws
a 2 × 4 to 48" in length and then rip-cutting it down driven through pilot holes that are countersunk only.
Join rails and seat supports . Drive
3 two 3" deck screws through the front
rail and into the front ends of the seat
supports. Also drive one 3" screw
through the back rail and into the back
end of each seat support. Apply exterior
glue to the mating parts first to reinforce
the joints.
Attach the front posts . Drive two
4 21⁄2" deck screws through the side of
the front post and into the outside seat
supports. Drive two 21⁄2" deck screws
through the front rail and into the
front posts.
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Next, cut two 211⁄2" lengths of 2 × 4 and rip them to make the arm fronts. Lay out the arm front profile on
3" wide, and then miter-cut the bottom ends to 15° to each piece and cut the profiles with a jigsaw. Attach the
make the back posts. Draw a 3" radius on the back top arm fronts to the front posts with 21⁄2" deck screws.
corners of each back post and cut along the radius line
with a jigsaw. Attach the back posts to the outside seat ATTACH THE BACK RAILS & SEAT SLATS
supports with 21⁄2" screws (photo 5). Cut two 241⁄4" pieces of 5⁄4 deck boards to make the
Cut one 22" length from a 5⁄4 deck board (actual armrests. Lay out the armrest profile on each deck board
thickness is 1" to 11⁄4") and rip-cut that piece into two and cut the boards using a jigsaw. The backside edge
2"-wide pieces to make the two arm supports. Attach the should have a curved taper of 1" starting 7" from the
arm supports to the front and back posts with 21⁄2" screws end. The armrests should be rounded at a 1" radius on
(photo 6). Cut two 91⁄4" pieces of the 5⁄4 deck board to both front corners. Cut four 48" long pieces of 7⁄8 × 51⁄2"
Attach the back posts . Clamp the
5 pieces together and drive two 21⁄2" deck
screws through each back post and into
the outside seat supports.
Attach the arm supports . Drive two
6 21⁄2" deck screws through each end of
the arm supports and into the front and
back posts. Then attach the arm front
with two 21⁄2" deck screws.
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(nominal 1 × 6) boards to make the seat slats. Rip-cut and bottom rails. Rip-cut this piece into one
three of the boards to 5" wide and then rip-cut the 2"-wide board and one 3"-wide board. Use a
fourth deck board into two 25⁄8"-wide pieces. router and 1⁄4" roundover bit to ease the edges of
Cut a 54" piece of 5⁄4 deck board to make the the armrests, seat slats, and back rails (photo 8).
top back rail. Make a template of one-half of the top Attach the armrests, seat slats, and back rails with
back rail on a piece of cardboard according to the 21⁄2" deck screws (photo 9).
profile drawing on page 39. Cut the template out
with scissors or an X-acto knife. Trace the template FINISH THE SWING
onto each half of the top back rail (photo 7). Then, Although you may choose to leave the swing unfinished
cut along the layout line with a jigsaw. Sand smooth. if it is made of a good exterior wood, such as cedar or
Cut a 52" piece of 5⁄4 deck board to make the middle redwood, most people prefer to apply a top coat or even
7
Lay out the back rail profile . Use the information on page 39 to make a cardboard template of half of the top back rail. Use this
template to lay out the first half of the top back rail profile and then flip the template to lay out the second half.
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an exterior wood stain and a top coat. Protecting the counterbored holes at screw locations. Once the glue
wood not only allows the wood tone to retain its color, has set, trim the plugs flush with the wood surface
it also minimizes the raised wood grain effect that using a flush-cutting saw, or simply sand the tops
occurs when water soaks into unprotected wood. The down so they are even with the surrounding wood
raised grain is not uncomfortable in and of itself, but it surface. Then, wipe down the entire project with a
can lead to splintering. rag dipped in mineral spirits or denatured alcohol,
Before applying your finish of choice, sand all wait for the wood to dry, and then apply your finish.
of the wood surfaces up to 150 grit using a pad If you have access to an HVLP sprayer, it is an
sander. Do not use an aggressive sander, such as a excellent choice for applying the finish smoothly
belt sander. Cut or buy wood plugs from the same and quickly. Two or three light coats will yield much
species as the swing wood. Glue the plugs into the better results than one or two heavier coats.
Ease the edges . Round over all edges
8 of the armrests, back rails, and the top
edges (smooth face) of the seat slats.
Use a router with a 1⁄4" radius roundover
bit to make these profile cuts.
Finish the assembly . Attach the
9 armrests, seat slats, and back rails with
21⁄2" deck screws.
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HANGING THE SWING stand. Make sure the chain you buy is of sufficient
Install the four 3⁄8"-diameter eyebolts that will be strength and rated for outdoor usage. If you are
fastened to the hanging chains or ropes (photo 10). using rope, choose rope that won’t shrink or stretch
Of these two options, chains take a bit longer to (such as 5⁄8"-diameter nylon rope).
install but they won’t need adjusting once they’re set, Two bolts are attached through the front rail and
and you don’t have to tie and retie knots. Porch swing two bolts are attached through the back edges of the
chains can be purchased as kits from hardware stores armrests and back posts. Hang the porch swing from
and from online sellers. Each kit contains a pair chains or ropes so that the front edge is approximately
of chain assemblies with two swing chains, which 16" off the ground. The back edge of the swing should
consist of a Y-fitting that connects to an S-hook at be level with the front edge or slightly lower. Adjust
the end of a single chain dropping from the ceiling or the hanging height to suit the primary users.
10
Prepare for hangers . Drill 7⁄16"-dia. guide holes for each 3⁄8" eyebolt. Fasten the eyebolts with washers and locknuts.
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Porch Swing Stand
W hat good is a porch swing if you don’t have a place
to hang it? Porch swings originally hung from the
ceilings of covered porches, but you don’t need a porch
(do not exceed). The only modification you may need to
make to the plan is to match the distance between the
eyebolts in the stand to the dimension between your
to enjoy a porch swing in your outdoor living space. porch swing’s hanging chains or ropes.
Instead, you can build this attractive porch swing stand
to hold your swing. It will look great in a garden, yard,
or on a deck. And the total height is low enough to fit
under most raised porches or decks. In fact, unless Materials ▸
you’re sure that your ceiling has the structural strength
to handle a swing, this stand is probably a better option. 1 2 × 6" × 10 ft. cedar 3" deck screws
This swing stand is designed to hold up to a 4-foot- board Lag bolts (hot dipped
wide porch swing. The only tools you need to build it 1 2 × 8" × 12 ft. cedar or stainless steel):
are a power miter saw or circular saw, jigsaw, and drill/ board 8 @ 3⁄8 × 5"
driver. The design is simple enough to build in a day, 4 4 × 4" × 8 ft. cedar 12 @ 3⁄8 × 61⁄2"
but the speed of construction doesn’t result in any boards 20 3⁄8" lock washers
lack of strength. The cross braces and gussets that 1 4 × 6" × 8 ft. cedar 20 3⁄8" nuts
reinforce the 4 × 4 legs and 4 × 6 top beam give this board 2 1⁄2 × 6" eyebolts
stand more than enough strength to hold two adults
This sturdy stand made from cedar timbers is designed to support the swing project shown on pages 38 to 45. But if you like the
stand, its design is neutral enough to support any other swing or seat that you buy, build, or already own.
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Porch Swing Stand
A
B B
D
C
B
A
F F
D
C E
SIDE VIEW
F
F
F
F
B
A
D D
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material F F
A Beam 31⁄2 × 51⁄2 × 96" 1 Cedar
B Beam gussets 1 ⁄2 × 5 ⁄2 × 14 ⁄4"
1 1 3
4 Cedar E E
C Inside beam supports 11⁄2 × 51⁄2 × 21" 2 Cedar
D Outside beam supports 11⁄2 × 71⁄4 × 213⁄4" 2 Cedar
E Cross braces 1 ⁄2 × 7 ⁄4 × 44"
1 1
2 Cedar
FRONT VIEW
F Legs 3 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 76"
1 1
4 Cedar
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■ Porch Swing Stand
CUT THE PARTS The bottom edge of the cross brace features a
Cut each 76"-long 4 × 4 leg with parallel 14° miters at decorative arc profile. Draw this arc using a flexible
the ends (photo 1). You need a 10" or 12" power miter strip of wood (such as 1"-wide strip of 1⁄4" lauan
saw for enough capacity to cut the legs in a single pass. plywood) as a gauge. Mark points on the workpiece
Be sure to provide ample support for the workpiece, that are 4" from the outside edges of the long side of
including the cutoff portion. If you don’t have a miter the cross brace. At each mark, tap two small nails into
saw, mark the angled cutting lines with a protractor the face of the cross brace near the edge. Tap a third
or speed square, and cut them with a circular saw or nail centered across the length of the brace and 2" up
handsaw. Cut the two 44"-long cross braces from a from the bottom to mark the apex of the arc. Flex a
piece of 2 × 8. Miter-cut each end to 14°. thin scrap of wood against the nails to create a smooth
Cut the stand legs to length . If you
1 have a 10" or 12" power miter saw, you
should be able to make the 14° end
cuts in one pass. Be sure the end of the
workpiece is supported.
Trace the cross-brace arcs . Flex a
2 thin piece of wood or metal against two
nails to act as a template for laying out
the arc profile on the leg cross braces.
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arc profile. Trace the arc with a pencil (photo 2) the outside end of the gusset. Then, draw a second
and then remove the nails and cut along the line 45° line from the outside edge down to the bottom
with a jigsaw. edge of the gusset (photo 3). Cut off the corners of
Miter-cut the 14° ends of the two 21"-long 2 × 6 each gusset on these marked cutting lines.
inside beam supports to length. Miter-cut the 14° of The top beam is an 8-foot long 4 × 6 timber.
the two 213⁄4"-long 2 × 8 outside beam supports. Use Miter-cut the top corners of the beam to 45°,
the same method that you used to create the arc on starting 31⁄2" in from each end of the beam.
the cross braces to create an arc along the bottom
edge of the outside beam supports. ASSEMBLE THE STAND
Cut the beam gussets 143⁄4" long. Make two To attach the gussets to the inside beam supports,
marks 31⁄2" in from each end along the top edge of first mark the center of each beam support and then
each gusset, and draw a 45° line from each mark to measure out 13⁄4" from the center to designate the
Make the gussets . Draw 45° cutting
3 lines at ends of the beam gussets using
a try square as a guide. Trim along the
cutting lines.
Attach the gussets . Bore counterbore
4 holes and guide holes for bolts,
washers, and nuts through the beam
supports, cross braces, and legs. Drive
3
⁄8 × 61⁄2" lag screws with washers to
secure the gussets.
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positions of the inside edges of the gussets. Draw beam with 3⁄8"-diameter × 61⁄2" bolts secured by
alignment lines on these marks, perpendicular to the washers and locknuts (photo 5).
top and bottom edges of the beam supports. Position The chain or rope that supports the swing will
your drill 3⁄4" to the outside of these lines and bore be fastened to an eyebolt that runs down through
3
⁄16"-diameter guide holes through the beam supports. the beam. Drill two 9⁄16"-diameter vertical pilot holes
Hold the gussets in position and drill 1⁄8" pilot holes in through the center of the beam, spaced the same
the ends of the gussets using the beam pilot holes as a measured distance as there is between your swing’s
guide. Attach the gussets to the beam supports with 3" hanging chains or ropes. To avoid creating a place for
deck screws. water to pool, a counterbore hole is not drilled for the
Lay the legs on a flat surface. Position the outside nuts that fasten the eyebolts. Fasten two 1⁄2"-diameter
beam support and cross brace under the legs. Then, × 6" eyebolts with lock washers and nuts to the beam
position the inside beam support and gusset assembly (photo 6).
on top of the legs. Clamp the legs between the beam
supports and clamp the cross brace to the legs. Drill INSTALL THE STAND & HANG THE SWING
two 11⁄8"-diameter × 1⁄2" deep counterbore holes and The swing stand should be placed on level ground. A
7
⁄16"-diameter guide holes through each joint and attach porch swing is not intended to swing fast or in a long
the parts with 3⁄8"-diameter × 5" and 3⁄8"-diameter × 61⁄2" arc, like a play swing does, so there is no need under
bolts (photo 4). normal use to anchor the stand to the ground. Hang
Raise the leg assembly. Position the beam the porch swing so the top front edge of the seat is
on the beam supports so it fits in between the approximately 16" off the ground (photo 7). The back
gussets. Clamp the beam in place and then drill edge of the swing should be level with the front edge
counterbores and guide holes through the joints, or slightly lower. Adjust the hanging height to suit the
just as you did for the leg assembly. Fasten the primary users.
5
Attach the beam . Drill counterbores for washers on both gussets and drill guide holes for 3⁄8"-dia. x 61⁄2"-long lag bolts. Insert the
bolts and secure with lock washers and nuts.
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Install eyebolts on the beam . Fasten
6 1
⁄2"-dia. eyebolts to the beam with
washers and locknuts.
Hang the swing . Use chains
7 (preferred) or rope to hang the porch
swing from the eyebolts in the swing
stand beam. The front edge of the
swing seat should be roughly 16" off the
ground, and the swing should be level
or tilted slightly backwards when at rest.
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Recyclables Bench
F ew areas in your home are better suited for a
sturdy bench than porches, entryways, breezeways,
and even patios and garages that are located next
weight and cost while allowing slightly more interior
storage space.
Because this bench is painted, it can be built with
to an entry door. The reasons are pretty obvious: it’s inexpensive construction-grade lumber even if it is
convenient to have a place to sit while removing shoes destined for porch, patio, or some other exposed or
or boots, and a flat, raised surface is perfect for setting partially exposed area.
down groceries and packages while fumbling around
for the house keys. Along with providing a seating
option, this bench has a flip up lid and is sized to hold Materials ▸
grocery bags of recyclables so you can keep them out of
the house and out of sight until curbside pick-up day. 4 1 × 4" × 8 ft. 1 3⁄4" × 4 × 8 ft. AB
The principal design flair on this project is clear pine boards plywood
created by the scalloped rim rails and vertical 2 1 × 2" × 8 ft. 3 21⁄2" brass butt
columns running along the faces and sides. With a clear pine boards hinges
subtle Grecian architectural theme, the look imparts 6 1 × 6" × 10 ft. 1
⁄4"-dia. dowels
a bit of elegance to the sturdy wood box and lid. clear pine boards #00 biscuits
The parts also provide structural support, allowing Deck screws
for thin front and side panels that keep down the
Indoor/outdoor benches that combine seating and storage are readily available for purchase today, but the typical model in
stores has a bleak appearance that’s much more about utility than design appeal. This storage bench employs some classical
styling elements for an appearance that makes no concessions to utility.
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BxW 2/C 4/C OK Correx 44w
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
Initials Date
44w x 36d
Recyclables Bench
M
L
N K
L B
I
H
I
B A
C
J
C
F
D
B
C
E G C I C
F F F
D
E
SIDE VIEW
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Front top rail 3
⁄4 × 31⁄2 × 401⁄2" 1 Pine H Back panel 3
⁄4 × 21 × 39" 1 AB plywood
B Side rails 3
⁄4 × 3 ⁄2 × 16 ⁄2"
1 1
2 Pine I Side panels 1
⁄4 × 13 × 12" 2 AB plywood
C Corner boards 3
⁄4 × 3 × 12" 4 Pine J Front panel 1
⁄4 × 13 × 38" 1 AB plywood
D Front base rail 3
⁄4 × 51⁄2 × 401⁄2" 1 Pine K Lid back rail 3
⁄4 × 31⁄2 × 41" 1 Pine
E Side base rails 3
⁄4 × 51⁄2 × 161⁄2" 2 Pine L Lid side rails 3
⁄4 × 31⁄2 × 10" 2 Pine
F Filler stiles 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄2 × 12"
1
13 Pine M Lid front rail 3
⁄4 × 5 ⁄2 × 41"
1
1 Pine
G Bottom panel 3
⁄4 × 15 ⁄4 × 39"
3
1 AB plywood N Lid panel 3
⁄4 × 10 × 34" 1 AB plywood
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■ Recyclables Bench
MAKE THE PROFILED RAILS have a table saw, use a circular saw and a straightedge
The top rails and base rails for this bench feature cutting guide. Cut along the centerline (photo 2).
decorative cutouts and curves that should be cut before Then, trim the ends of one ripped workpiece so they
the bench frame is assembled. The top rails have a series are exactly 3" out from the outer edges of the circular
of half-circles separated by 11⁄2" of square-end material cutouts. Cut the side top rails from the other half of
that mates with the tops of the 1 × 2 filler stiles. The the workpiece (photo 3). Each side rail should have 3"
best way to make the half-round cutouts is to cut full of uncut material at the back and 11⁄2" at the front.
circles in a workpiece and then rip-cut that piece Cut the 1 × 6 stock for the base rails to length and
down the center. For the top rails, a piece of 1 × 8 SPF lay out the arcs according to the dimensions on page
(spruce/pine/fir) is wide enough to make both the sides 53. The arcs essentially create leg forms at the ends
and the top. Cut a 1 × 8 to about 48" long and then of each rail and in the middle of the front rail. Use a
draw a centerline from end to end. Lay out 3"-diameter jigsaw to cut out the arcs (photo 4) and then sand
circles along the centerline so the equators of the circles them so they are smooth. Cut the corner boards and
are 11⁄2" apart on the centerline (start in the center and the filler stiles to length.
work out toward the ends, leaving slightly more than 3"
of uncut wood at each end). Chuck a 3"-diameter hole MAKE & JOIN THE PANEL ASSEMBLIES
saw in a drill and carefully cut the circles (photo 1). If Join the rails, corner boards, and stiles to create a
you have a drill press, use it here. front panel assembly and two side panel assemblies.
After the holes are cut, set up a table saw to rip- Because of the width of the top and base rails, there
cut the workpiece along the centerline. If you do not are several better options than screws to connect the
1 2
Cut out 3"-dia . circles along a centerline on a 1 × 8 Rip-cut the rail workpiece along the centerline to create
workpiece to make the top rails. Use a 3" hole saw to cut the two workpieces with half-round cutouts. Use one for the front
wood. top rail and the other to make the side top rails.
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horizontal rails to the vertical corner boards and filler dowel holes, you may be able to do it by orienting the
stiles. If you own or have access to a pocket screw jig, table vertically and drilling them individually instead.
pocket screws can be used to make the connections. Apply a small amount of exterior glue into each
Otherwise, use dowels to reinforce the joints. You can dowel hole, and make the dowel joints to complete the
use a dowel jig or dowel points for this, or you can rely assembly. Use a bar clamp or pipe clamp to draw the
on math and marking. parts together, if necessary. Once the glue has dried,
To join the horizontal and vertical parts with join the front assembly to the side assembly with glue
dowels, start by using a drill press (if you have one) to and 21⁄2" countersunk wood screws. Make sure the top
drill 3⁄8"-diameter × 3⁄4" deep dowel holes in the bottom and bottom edges are flush. Cut the back panel to size
edges of the top rails (photo 5). Clamp a straightedge from 3⁄4" plywood and attach it to the backs of the side
guide to your drill press table to ensure that the holes assemblies with glue and 21⁄2" countersunk wood screws.
are a uniform distance in from the front edges of the Cut the bottom panel to size and install it in the base of
workpieces. The holes should be centered on each the bench so the top of the panel is 1⁄4" below the tops
11⁄2" shoulder where it will meet a spacer stile. Use of the base rails using glue and countersunk 21⁄2" wood
a pair of evenly spaced dowels to secure each corner screws (photo 7). You could also use biscuits and a plate
board. After the dowel holes are drilled into the rails, joiner or pocket screws to make these connections.
clamp all of the stiles and corner boards together edge- Cut the front panel and side panels to size from
to-edge with the ends flush. Use the same drill press 1
⁄4"-thick plywood. If you decide to use a two-tone
setup to drill dowel holes in the ends of the clamped painting scheme, paint the frame and the panels
parts (photo 6) making sure the dowel hole above separately using two or three thin coats of exterior
each spacer stile location is centered. TIP: If your drill trim paint. Once the paint has dried, apply a thin bead
press doesn’t have enough throat capacity to drill these of exterior-rated adhesive to the backs of the filler
3 4
Trim the scalloped rails to length so the correct amount of Make the 2"-deep arc cutouts on the bottoms of the rails to
uncut materials is left at each end. create the feet shapes.
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stiles and corner boards and then position the panels Cut the lid frame parts from 1 × 4 and 1 × 6 stock.
behind the front and side assemblies, centered Trace the profile for the front edge into the 1 × 6 using
so any reveals are even around the perimeters of the dimensions on page 53 as a guide. Cut the lid panel
the panels. Press on the panels to set them in the to size from 3⁄4" AB plywood (or another high-quality
adhesive and then staple them or drive 3⁄4" brads to grade). Join the back and side lid rails using dowels,
reinforce the joints. biscuits, or pocket screws and glue; then attach the lid
panel to the inside edges of the three-sided frame using
MAKE & ATTACH THE LID the same joinery techniques. Attach the front lid rail to
The lid for this storage bench is made from 3⁄4" plywood the front ends of the side rails and the front edge of the
that’s framed with solid wood. To make it this way, you lid panel (photo 8). Sand the lid smooth after the glue
need to employ either a biscuit joiner, a pocket screw dries and fill any holes or voids with wood filler. Paint
jig, or a dowel jig. A simpler alternative is to cut the all project parts with exterior paint. Attach the lid with
entire lid to the finished dimensions from 3⁄4" exterior three 21⁄2 × 21⁄2" exterior-rated butt hinges (photo 9) or,
plywood, and fill the voids in the plywood edges with if you prefer, a piano hinge. Add optional lid supports to
wood filler before painting. prevent slamming and other hardware as you see fit.
5 6
Drill dowel holes in the top and bottom rails to make dowel Drill mating dowel holes in the top and bottom ends of
joints with the filler stiles and the corner boards. the filler stiles and the corner boards. Gang the parts together
edge to edge to ensure a uniform setback from the front faces.
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7 8
Install the base panel using glue and counterbored screws. Make the bench lid by capturing the plywood lid panel
The top of the base panel should be 1⁄4" below the tops of the between the back and side lid rails and then adding the front
bottom rails on all sides. lid rail.
9
Attach the lid with hinges . Add any additional hardware you may want, such as lid support hardware or chest handles.
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Luxury Sun Lounger
R eclining in comfort on a summer afternoon—
that’s all the motivation most people will need to
build this wood sun lounger. It features four recline
Materials ▸
positions so you can select a comfortable back angle 2 3⁄4 × 11⁄2" × 8 ft. 10 1⁄4" brass flat
whether you plan to read a book, take an afternoon mahogany boards washers
nap, or bag some serious rays. Fashioned from 9 3⁄4 × 31⁄2" × 8 ft. 4 1⁄4" brass locknuts
mahogany for high-end nautical appeal, the lounger boards 1
⁄2"-dia. × 27" rod
features two pullout trays for beverages or books. 2 ⁄4 × 51⁄2" × 10 ft.
3
2 8"-dia. wheels
Mahogany is naturally rot resistant, but it will last boards 6 1⁄2" galvanized
longer (and resist staining better) if it is coated with 2 11⁄2 × 31⁄2" × 8 ft. washers
an exterior sealer. But the parts that make this lounger boards 1
⁄2" -dia. aluminum
are made from stock 3⁄4"-thick and 11⁄2"-thick lumber so 1 3⁄4" -dia. × 24" rod
you can choose to build it from just about any exterior- hardwood dowel 1 1⁄2" -dia. × 191⁄2"
grade lumber, such as cedar, redwood, or white oak. Brass screws (11⁄4", 21⁄2") CPVC tubing
Most of the parts for this lounger are rip-cut to 36 No. 10 brass 2 1⁄2" push caps
width—a task that’s easiest to accomplish with a table finish washers
saw, but can also be done with a circular saw and 4 1⁄4" -dia. × 2" brass
straightedge. All of the exposed, sharp edges are eased machine screws
with a router and roundover bit. If you don’t have a
router, you can use a power sander, a block plane, or even
hand-sand them.
Made of rich mahogany and dressed up with solid brass hardware, this sun lounger has a nautically inspired appearance that is
right at home poolside.
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Author ISBN # Author's review
Outdoor Carpentry 0781760607 (if needed)
Document name OK Correx
Sun Lounger.eps Author ISBN # Author's review
Date
Artist Date Outdoor Carpentry Initials
03/23/2009 0781760607 (if needed)
Accurate Art, Inc. Document name OK Correx
Check if revision
Sun Lounger.epsCE's review
Luxury Sun Lounger BxW 2/C 4/C
Artist
Accurate Art, Inc.
Date
03/23/2009
OK Correx
Check if revision
Initials
CE's review
Date
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
BxW 2/C 4/C Date OK Correx
44w x 36d Initials
Correx
Correx
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
Initials Date
44w x 36d
Date
Date
OK
OK
25 3⁄4" 45"
8"Author’s review
CE's review(if needed)
1 1⁄4"
Initials
Initials
8"
2"
C
03/23/2009
Side View 4"
E
0781760607
D 6"
Check if revision
8"ISBN #
H
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
Date
4/C
C 10 1⁄2"
Outdoor Carpentry
Sun Lounger.eps
Accurate Art, Inc.
2/C
B
Document name
44w x 36d
J
IAuthor
BxW
Artist
Back Support
G Detail
F
B O
A P
A
B Q
R
P
E
Q
E O R
Tray Detail
(Side view)
N
O
O L M
N P
Tray Support O
Frame L R
M Q
Tray Detail
Cutting List Optional Pull-out Trays
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Base rails 3
⁄4 × 51⁄2 × 77" 2 Mahogany L Tray frame sides 3
⁄4 × 11⁄2 × 24" 2 Mahogany
B Base stretchers 1 ⁄2 × 3 × 24"
1
4 Mahogany M Tray frame ends 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄2 × 13 ⁄2"
1 1
2 Mahogany
C Back rails 3
⁄4 × 3 × 30" 2 Mahogany N Tray frame crosspieces ⁄4 × 1 ⁄2 × 13 ⁄2"
3 1 1
2 Mahogany
D Back stretchers 1 ⁄2 × 3 × 22"
1
2 Mahogany O Tray frame supports 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄ 2 × 5 ⁄ 2 "
1 1
4 Mahogany
E Front legs 3
⁄4 × 4 × 12" 2 Mahogany P Tray slats 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄4 × 12"
3
12 Mahogany
F Back legs 3
⁄4 × 4 × 10 ⁄4"
1
2 Mahogany Q Tray fronts 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄2 × 10 ⁄4"
1 3
2 Mahogany
G Base slats 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄4 × 51"
3
13 Mahogany R Tray backs 3
⁄4 × 3 ⁄2 × 10 ⁄4"
1 3
2 Mahogany
H Back slats 3
⁄4 × 13⁄4 × 311⁄2" 12 Mahogany
I Back support rails 3
⁄4 × 15⁄8 × 15" 2 Mahogany
J Back support arms 3
⁄4 × 2 × 15" 2 Mahogany
K Back support rod 3
⁄4" dia. × 23 ⁄4" 3
1 Oak dowel
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Text Page: 59
■ Luxury Sun Lounger
BUILD THE BASE FRAME seat back rails (photo 1). Use a jigsaw to cut along
Begin construction of the sun lounger by making the curved lines (photo 2) and then smooth the cuts
the base frame. Achieving strong joints and perfectly with a power sander. Round over the top edges of the
square corners at this stage helps to ensure that your base rails with a router and 1⁄4"-radius roundover bit
project fits together as designed. Cut the base rails (photo 3) or ease them with sandpaper.
and back rails to length and width. Use a piece of Cut the front legs to length and width. Use
cardboard to make a template of the curved profile (8" the same curved-profile template that was used for
long and 11⁄4" deep) that’s cut into the ends of the rails the base and back rails to trace two mirror-image
(see drawing, page 59). Trace the curved profile onto curves on the bottom corners of each front leg
the bottom front corner and the top back corner of (photo 4). Use a jigsaw or band saw to cut along
each base rail and onto the top (back) end only of the the curved lines.
Preparing Your Stock ▸
The sun lounger seen here is designed so it can be
built easily with common dimensional lumber found
at any home center. Depending on your location, that
would include cedar, redwood, or cypress along with
treated and untreated SPF (spruce/pine/fir). In some
cases, you can find select, sanded hardwoods in
standard dimensions at your building center. A well-
stocked lumberyard will have much greater selection
of dimensioned lumber suitable for exterior projects,
such as white oak, mahogany, teak, and ipê. But if you
intend to build any project with hardwood, you greatly
expand your species options and save significantly on
your materials costs by milling your own stock. The
most inexpensive way to buy hardwood is in random
widths and lengths. Most often, lumber sold this way
has been planed or sawn to a uniform thickness that’s
a bit thicker than standard dimensions. For example,
4
⁄4 (“four quarter”) stock is a very common size that is
readily planed down to standard 3⁄4" thickness with a
surface planer.
In addition to thickness, rough stock must also be
squared. This is typically done with a stationary jointer.
You run the best edge through the jointer until it is
flat and then make a parallel rip cut along the other
edge. The squared stock can be run through a planer
to create smooth, flat surfaces that will achieve the
desired thickness.
Narrow stock can be flattened on the face with a jointer,
but for wider stock you need a power planer. Dressing,
squaring, and dimensioning random-width lumber is
time-consuming but saves a lot of money on material
costs versus pre-milled stock.
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Cut the back legs to length and width. Draw a base rails with exterior wood glue,11⁄4" exterior-rated
2"-radius half-circle on the bottom of each leg. Cut screws, and decorative, rounded finish washers (we
along the half-circle line with a jigsaw. Cut the base used brass hardware but stainless steel is also a good
stretchers to length and width. To mark the curves on choice). Drill three 1⁄8"-diameter pilot holes through
the stretchers, bend a flexible 24" long piece of scrap the legs before driving each screw (photo 6).
wood (a 1" wide strip of 1⁄4"-thick lauan plywood is a
good choice) or metal to create the arc along the top BUILD THE BACK FRAME
edges of the base stretchers (photo 5). Trace the arc Cut the back rails to length and width. Trace the
on three of the base stretchers (the rearmost base curved profile on the top back corner of each back rail.
stretcher remains flat). Cut along the arc lines on Cut along the curve on each back rail. Round over the
each base stretcher with your jigsaw or band saw. top edges of the back rails. Cut the back stretchers
Attach the base rails to the base stretchers with to length and width. Bend a flexible 24"-long piece of
2 ⁄2" screws and finish washers. Attach the legs to the
1
scrap wood or metal to create the arc along the inside
1 2
Draw the end profile onto the rails . Using a cardboard Cut the curves . Use a jigsaw or band saw to cut the curved
template, trace the smooth curve onto the ends of each part, profiles on the ends of the base rails and on one end of each
as shown in the drawing, on page 59. Draw the curved profile back rail. Use a sander to remove any blade marks and smooth
on a piece of heavy cardboard. Cut along the profile line to the edges.
make the template. This template allows you to trace the
curved profile onto the parts.
3 4
Round-over the edges of the base rails with a router and Trace the curve profile on the bottom corners of the front
1
⁄4" piloted roundover bit. Use a sharp bit and avoid stopping in legs. Flip the template to create symmetrical curves.
one place to prevent burning the wood.
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edge of the back stretchers. Trace the arc on both of across the base stretchers with the foot ends of the
the back stretchers. Cut along the arc line of both back slats extending 3" beyond the foot ends of the base
stretchers. Attach the back rails to the back stretchers rails. Drill countersunk pilot holes in each slat,
with 21⁄2" exterior-rated screws (photo 7). centering each hole across the slat and base stretcher.
Attach the base slats to the base stretchers with
ATTACH THE BASE & BACK SLATS countersunk 11⁄4" exterior-rated screws (photo 8).
Rip-cut 3⁄4 × 31⁄2" boards to make two 13/4"-wide slats Repeat the same process to attach the back slats
from each board. Cut the base and back slats to to the back stretchers. The top edges of the back slats
length and width from this stock. Round-over the extend 3" beyond the top edges of the back rails. Use
long edges of each slat with a router and 1⁄4"-radius a string and pencil as a trammel to draw a 24" radius
piloted roundover bit. Evenly space the base slats across the ends of the base and back slats (photo 9).
Lay out the stretcher arcs . Tap a
5 finish nail 1" down from the top edge of
a base stretcher. Use this nail as a flex
point for bending the strip of wood to
make the arc on the base stretchers.
Drive two more nails near the ends of
the curve to help hold the shape. Cut
out and sand along the curve and use
this stretcher as a template for tracing
arcs on the other two stretchers.
Fasten the back legs to the base rails
6 with brass screws and finish washers.
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Cut off the slat ends along the radius line. Sand two cuts through the top of the back support rail to
the cut edges smooth and then round-over the ends open up the top of each notch (photo 10). The back
of the slats. cut is made perpendicular to the top edge so that the
support bar does not slide out of the notch when you
ATTACH THE BACK, BASE & ADJUSTABLE lean on the back. The front cut is beveled slightly
BACK SUPPORT forward so that the support bar slides out when the
Cut the back support rail to length and width. Mark back is raised. Attach the support rails to the base rails
the center of each notch (the notches are calibrated with 11⁄4" screws.
to create multiple backrest position settings). Drill Cut the back support arms to length and width.
a 3⁄4"-diameter hole that is centered on each notch Draw 1"-radius half-circles at each end of the support
layout line and located 1⁄2" from the top edge. Make arms. Cut along the radius lines. Drill a 3⁄4"-diameter
Attach back rails to back
7 stretchers . Use 21⁄2" screws (brass is
seen here) and finish washers. The top
edges of the back stretchers are flush
with the top edges of the back rails.
Attach the base and back slats .
8 Drill 1⁄8"-dia. countersunk pilot holes
centered across each slat and stretcher,
and fasten with 11⁄4" screws (do not use
decorative washers here).
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hole on one end of the arm and a 1⁄4"-diameter hole at to the back rails with 1⁄4 × 2" machine screws and
the other end. Drill 1⁄4"-diameter holes through the back locknuts (photo 11).
rails where the support arms will be attached. Attach
the support arms to the back rails with 1⁄4 × 2" machine BUILD THE PULL-OUT TRAYS
screws and locknuts. Place a flat washer between the The optional pull-out trays are a useful feature that
support arm and back rail and place a finish washer you’ll enjoy. To make and install them, start by cutting
under the screw head. all tray parts to length and width. Round-over the
Cut the back support bar to length and slide it top edges of the tray slats. Attach the tray slats to the
through the 3⁄4"-diameter holes in the support arms. tray front and back with countersunk 11⁄4" screws.
Place the back assembly on the flat support rails, Assemble the tray frame sides, ends, and supports
leaving a 1⁄2"-wide space between the base slats and with 11⁄4" screws. Place the trays on the tray frame
back slats. Drill the 1⁄4"-diameter pivot hole through sides and then attach the tray crosspieces to the tray
the base rails and back rails. Attach the base rails supports with 11⁄4" screws. Position the tray frame
9 10
10 1⁄ 2"
8" 6"
4"
2"
Draw the slat cutoff profile . To mark the profile on the Create the back support notches . After drilling a 3⁄4"-dia.
attached slats, measure 24" from the edge of the middle slat hole at each notch location, make a pair of cuts down from the
and then use a string and pencil as a trammel to draw the edge and remove the waste wood to complete each notch.
24"-radius line across the slat ends.
11 12
Mount the back assembly . Attach the back and base with Install the pull-out trays . Place the trays on the tray frame
two 1⁄4" machine screws. Insert a washer as a spacer between sides and attach the tray frame crosspieces to the supports,
the base rail and the back to keep them from binding when the keeping the crosspieces 1⁄8" above the tray slats.
back pivots and is raised or lowered.
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and tray assembly against the inside face of the base
rails with the tops of the frame supports 31⁄8" above 13
the bottom edge of the base rails. Attach the frame by
driving 11⁄4" screws through the base rails and into the
edge of the frame supports (photo 12).
ATTACH THE WHEELS
The sun lounger wheels allow you to easily move the
lounger around to follow the sun or just get it out of the
way. It is rather heavy, and pulling and dragging it around
constantly will shorten its lifespan. Drill the 5⁄8"-diameter
holes for the axle through the back legs. Slide the 1⁄2"
aluminum rod axle through the holes, fitting flat washers
and a piece of 1⁄2"-diameter CPVC over the axle and
between the wheels (photo 13). Secure the wheels on
the axle with 1⁄2" push caps (photo 14).
Install the axle . Slip the aluminum rod into a CPCV plastic
tube sleeve and insert into the guide holes in the wheels.
14
Install the wheels . Make sure the spacers (1⁄2" inside-diameter washers) are in place on each side of the wheel and then fasten
flanged push caps onto the ends of the rod to secure the wheels to the axle.
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Trellis Seat
S pice up your patio or deck with this sheltered
seating structure. Set it in a secluded corner to
create a warm, inviting outdoor living space.
Materials ▸
Made of lattice and cedar boards, our trellis seat 1 4 × 4" × 6' cedar 4d galvanized casing
is ideal for conversation or quiet moments of reading. 2 2 × 8" × 8' cedar nails
The lattice creates just the right amount of privacy for 5 2 × 4" × 12' cedar finishing materials
a small garden or patio. It’s an unobtrusive structure 1 1 × 6" × 10' cedar Note: measurements
that is sure to add some warmth to your patio or deck. 11 1 × 2" × 8' cedar reflect the actual
Position some outdoor plants along the top cap or 2 ½" × 4 × 4' cedar size of dimension
around the frame sides to dress up the project and lattice lumber
bring nature a little closer to home. For a cleaner Moisture-resistant *Cut one each: 32",
appearance, conceal visible screw heads on the seat glue 49", 63"
by counterboring the pilot holes for the screws and 1¼", 2", 2½" and 3"
inserting cedar plugs (available at most woodworking deck screws
stores) into the counterbores.
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Trellis Seat
OVERALL SIZE:
51 3⁄4" HIGH
56 1⁄2" HIGH
77" LONG F
G
C D
I
H
E
A A
1
⁄2" J J
J J
H
J J A
L
K 25 3⁄4" L
K
A
16"
B
B
H
1
⁄2"
62"
47" 24"
33 ⁄2"
1
SEAT DETAIL
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Frame side 1½ x 3½ x 49½” 4 Cedar H Retaining strip ¾ x 1½” cut to fit 22 Cedar
B Frame bottom 1½ x 3½ x 48” 2 Cedar I Post 3½ x 3½ x 49½” 1 Cedar
C Long rail 1½ x 3½ x 56½” 1 Cedar J Seat board 1½ x 7¼ x * 3 Cedar
D Short rail 1½ x 3½ x 51” 1 Cedar K Brace 1½ x 3½ x 11” 2 Cedar
E Lattice ½” x 4 x 4’ 2 Cedar L Seat support 1½ x 3½ x 48” 2 Cedar
F Short cap ¾ x 5½ x 51” 1 Cedar
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■ Trellis Seat
MAKE THE TRELLIS FRAME . JOIN THE TRELLIS FRAMES TO THE POST .
Cut the frame sides (A), frame bottoms (B), long Cut the post (I) to length.
rail (C), short rail (D), braces (K) and seat supports
Attach the two frame sections to the post. First, drill
(L) to length. To attach the frame sides and frame
pilot holes in the frame sides. Counterbore the holes.
bottoms, drill two evenly spaced 3⁄16" pilot holes in the
Drive evenly spaced 3" deck screws through the frame
frame sides. Counterbore the holes ¼ “ deep, using a
sides and into the post (photo 3). Make sure the
counterbore bit. Fasten with glue and drive 2½" deck
overhang of the long rail fits snugly over the top of the
screws through the frame sides and into the bottoms.
post.
Drill pilot holes in the top faces of the long and short
rails. Counterbore the holes. Attach the long and short ATTACH THE LATTICE RETAINING STRIPS .
rails to the tops of the frame sides with glue. Drive Cut the lattice retaining strips (H) to fit along the
deck screws through the rails and into the ends of the inside faces of the trellis frames (but not the seat
frame sides. The long rail should extend 3½" past one supports or braces).
end of the frame (photo 1).
Nail the strips to the frames, flush with the
Mark points 22¼" from each end on the frame inside frame edges, using 4d galvanized casing nails
bottoms to indicate position for the braces. Turn (photo 4).
the frame upside down. Drill pilot holes in the
frame bottoms where the braces will be attached. CUT AND INSTALL THE LATTICE PANELS .
Counterbore the holes. Position the braces flush with Since you will probably be cutting through some metal
the inside frame bottom edges. Attach the pieces by fasteners in the lattice, fit your circular saw with a
driving 3" deck screws through the frame bottoms and remodeler’s blade. Sandwich the lattice panel between
into the ends of the braces. two boards near the cutting line to prevent the lattice
from separating. Clamp the boards and the panel
Position the seat supports 16" up from the bottoms of
together, and cut the lattice panels to size. Always
the frame bottoms, resting on the braces. Make sure
wear protective eyewear when operating power tools.
the supports are flush with the inside edges of the
braces. Attach with glue and 3" deck screws driven Position the panels into the frames against the
through the frame sides and into the ends of the seat retaining strips, and attach them to the seat supports
supports. with 11 ⁄4" deck screws (photo 5). Secure the panels by
cutting retaining strips to fit along the outer edges of
Attach the braces to the seat supports by drilling
the inside faces of the trellis frame. Nail strips
angled 3 ⁄16" pilot holes through each brace edge. Drive
in place.
3" deck screws toenail style through the braces and
into the top edges of the seat supports (photo 2).
1 2
Attach the long rail at the top of one trellis frame with a 3½" Drive deck screws toenail-style through the braces and into
overhang at one end to cover the post the seat supports
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BUILD THE SEAT . INSTALL THE TOP CAPS .
Cut the seat boards (J) to length. On a flat work Cut the short cap (F) and long cap (G).
surface, lay the seat boards together, edge to edge.
Attach the caps to the tops of the long and short rails
Insert ½"-wide spacers between the boards
with deck screws (photo 6).
Draw cutting lines to lay out the seat shape onto the
boards as if they were one board (see diagram, page 67, APPLY FINISHING TOUCHES .
for seat board dimension). Gang-cut the seat boards to Brush on a coat of clear wood sealer to help preserve
their finished size and shape with a circular saw. the trellis seat.
Attach the seat boards to the seat supports with evenly TIP: Fabricated lattice panels are sold at any building
spaced deck screws, maintaining the ½"-wide gap. center in standard ¾" thickness. For our trellis seat
Smooth the seat board edges with a sander or router. project, we found and used ½"-thick lattice panels.
If you cannot locate any of the thinner panels, use
¾"-thick lattice, and substitute ½"-thick retaining strips
at the backs of the trellis frames.
3 4
Fasten the trellis frames to the post at right angles Nail 1 × 2 retaining strips for the lattice panels to the inside
faces of the trellis frames.
5 6
Fasten the lattice panels to the seat supports with 1¼" Attach the long and short caps to the tops of the trellis
deck screws, then attach outer retaining strips. frames. The long cap overlaps the long rail and the post.
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Dining &
Entertaining
Projects
P erhaps the most popular backyard activities are
cooking and eating. In fact, throwing backyard
barbecues and preparing summertime meals for the
family are the primary reasons we acquire most of our
yard furnishings. Picnic tables and patio tables are the
heart of your outdoor entertaining accommodations, and
you’ll find several interpretations here. The Cedar Patio
table offers sturdiness, a spacious top, and rich wood
tones. The trestle-type table with a pair of matching
benches is flexible, comfortable, and low-maintenance,
thanks to the composite decking used. The outdoor
tea table and chairs sets an Eastern tone that is at once
contemporary and classic. For ambitious outdoor cooks,
investigate the rolling Patio Prep Cart with built-in
refrigerator compartment, or the Pitmaster’s Locker—a
vertical cabinet with a locking door for fuel and grilling
accessory storage.
In this chapter:
• Trestle Table and Benches
• Cedar Patio Table
• Teahouse Table Set
• Folding Table
• Occasional Table
• Children’s Picnic table
• Traditional Picnic Table
• Patio Prep Cart
• Pitmaster’s Locker
• Timberframe Sandbox
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Trestle Table and Benches
T his modified picnic table-and-bench set combines
the tried-and-true dimensions and durability of a
classic picnic table with the style and structure of a
built with large, solid slab-wood legs that were braced
with a center stretcher. The stretcher and trestle legs were
typically joined by a through-mortise-and-tenon joint that
traditional trestle dining table. It is built with common was secured with a pin or key that fit through the tenon.
exterior lumber. The version seen here uses pressure- This outdoor table design reflects the style of those
treated pine to do the structural work of the base early wood trestle tables. The legs are made from multiple
frames, but it has a modern twist. For the tabletop boards instead of a single slab, and the stretcher locks
and seat tops it employs low-maintenance composite to the leg boards in notches instead of with a through-
deck boards. The composite deck boards provide a mortise-and-tenon joint.
surface that’s easy to clean and requires little long-term
maintenance. Composite boards are quite a bit heavier
than wood, so you might not want to use them if you Materials ▸
foresee a need to move your table frequently.
Trestle tables share one principal defining feature: a 1 1 × 2" × 8 ft. pine 1 2 × 10" × 8 ft. pine
pair of end leg frames that support a horizontal beam (the board board
trestle). Today, the most common trestle leg tables are the 9 2 × 4" × 8 ft. pine 6 5⁄4" × 12 ft.
manufactured metal leg folding tables found in almost boards composite deck
all schools, hotel banquet rooms, and other commercial 1 2 × 8" × 10 ft. pine boards
settings. But trestle leg construction isn’t new; it has been board Deck screws (2", 21⁄2")
used in table designs for centuries. Early versions were
A classic picnic table gets a modern makeover by replacing the wood tabletop and seat boards with low-maintenance
composite decking.
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Trestle Table and Benches
F
G
F
E
G B
L
E C
M
F
D K
A A
B
C I
L
K
H H
L
J I
Cutting List
Table Benches (2)
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Inside legs 11⁄2 × 83⁄4 × 27" 4 PT Pine H Inside bench legs 11⁄2 × 6 × 141⁄4" 8 PT Pine
B Outside legs 1 ⁄2 × 2 ⁄2 × 28 ⁄4"
1 1 3
4 PT Pine I Outside bench legs 1 ⁄2 × 2 ⁄2 × 16"
1 1
8 PT Pine
C Bottom leg rail 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄2 × 18"
1
2 PT Pine J Bottom bench leg rails 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄2 × 12 ⁄2"
1 1
4 PT Pine
D Middle stretcher 11⁄2 × 83⁄4 × 52" 1 PT Pine K Side stretchers 11⁄2 × 3 × 55" 4 PT Pine
E Side stretchers 11⁄2 × 3 × 48" 2 PT Pine L Cross stretchers 11⁄2 × 3 × 151⁄2" 6 PT Pine
F Cross supports 1 ⁄2 × 3 × 30"
1
3 PT Pine M Seat planks 1 ⁄4 × 5 ⁄2 × 72"
1 1
6 Decking
G Tabletop planks 1 ⁄4 × 5 ⁄2 × 72"
1 1
6 Decking
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Working with Composites ▸
Decking and other building materials made with it does contain wood fiber composite, it is susceptible to
composite are becoming increasingly popular and are mold and mildew if you don’t clean it regularly.
available in a much greater range of sizes, shapes, and You can use just about any conventional carpentry
colors than they were even a couple of years ago. In fact, tool on composite. However, avoid very fine blades as
composite 2 x 4s that can perform light structural duty are they can clog up. If you’re using a 71⁄4" circular saw, look
even beginning to hit the market. For any outdoor building for a 40-tooth framing blade. For a 10" power miter saw,
project, composites present a number of unique design use a 60-tooth carbide-tipped blade; for a 12" saw use
options. If you are attracted by the low-maintenance an 80-tooth blade. For jigsaws, use a 12-TPI (tooth-per-
qualities of composites and would like to try using them inch) blade.
in one of your building projects, as in this trestle table Composite material does not respond well to
project, you should know a few things about it and how its sanding. Even coarse sandpapers tend to clog up almost
workability compares to wood. immediately, and the edges of material like decking
The basic ingredients in composites are wood dust scratch easily when sanded. For these reasons it’s worth
and plastic resin. This combination gives it some of the look taking the time to make your initial cuts as smooth as
and feel of wood, but little of the structural strength. The possible. For the cleanest possible cuts, use a router and
plastic makes the material essentially impervious to water straight bit with either a cutting template or a pattern-
damage, hence its popularity as decking. However, because following sleeve.
Composites can be difficult to get smooth when they’re cut. Sanding (left) yields only gummed up papers and a
messy edge. Saws (middle) work fine, but avoid blades that are either too fine or too rough. A router and straight bit
(right) will yield a perfectly smooth cut but require multiple passes.
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■ Trestle Table and Benches
CUT THE TABLE PARTS 1
⁄2" deep by 63⁄4" long and the notches for the side
Cut four 27"-long pieces of 2 × 10 and then trim off stretchers 11⁄2" deep by 3" long. The tops of both
the edges to make the four 71⁄4"-wide inside legs. Use notches should be 3" down from the top of the leg.
a table saw or circular saw to rip-cut these pieces Cut the notches by making multiple passes with the
to width. Clamp the four inner legs together face router, lowering the bit after each pass (photo 3).
to face with the ends and edges flush. Draw lines Do not attempt to remove more than 1⁄4" of material
to designate the top and bottom of the notches that (in thickness) in a single pass.
hold the middle and side stretchers. Use a router and Cut four 283⁄4" long pieces of 2 × 4 and then
straight bit to cut out the waste material inside the trim approximately 1⁄2" off the long edges 1⁄2" per edge
notch outlines. Clamp a straightedge on each side to make the four 21⁄2"-wide outer legs. Cut the two
of the notch layout lines at a distance that is equal bottom leg rails to length. Cut one 52" long piece of
to the distance between the edge of the bit and the 2 × 10 and then trim approximately 1⁄4" off the long
edge of the router base (photo 1 and photo 2). edges to make the 83⁄4"-wide middle stretcher. Use a
These guides will function as stops for the router miter saw or jigsaw to cut each corner to a 30° miter.
base. Cut the notches for the middle stretcher Make the cuts 1" in from the ends (photo 4).
1 2
Measure the router bit setback . So you know where to Gang-cut the stretcher notches into the legs . Clamp a
place the straightedge cutting guides to cut the notches with straightedge guide on each side of the notch layout lines so
your router, measure the distance from the edge of the straight the distance from the blocks to the notch layout line equals
bit to the outside edge of the base plate. the router bit setback distance.
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Cut two 48"-long pieces of 2 × 4 and then trim available in a wide range of colors. It looks almost
approximately 1⁄4" off the long edges to make the 3"- like paint after it is applied, but it doesn’t peel as
wide side stretchers. Cut three 30"-long pieces of it ages so it is easier to reapply and maintain than
2 × 4 and then trim approximately 1⁄4" off the long paint. Finally, cut the tabletop planks to length.
edges to make the 3"-wide cross supports. Cut 30° Cut 12-foot deck boards in half to make the 6-foot
miters in the ends of the crosspieces (photo 4). tabletop and seat top planks.
Sand all of the wood parts to prepare for
finishing. Apply an exterior finish to all of the ASSEMBLE THE TABLE
frame parts. In this case a solid-color deck and Begin the assembly of the table by attaching one of the
siding stain was used. Solid color stains are inside legs to the middle stretcher using two 21⁄2" screws.
Finish clearing the notches . Don’t try
3 to remove all of the waste material from
the notches in one pass. Start with a 1⁄4"
bit depth and then lower the bit 1⁄4" after
each pass.
Trim the middle stretcher . Use a
4 miter saw to trim off each corner at a
30° angle. Make the cuts 1" in from the
ends.
1” -deep by 1 1⁄ 2” -wide notches for lap
joint with legs
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Attach one of the cross supports to the inner leg with two leg rail to the bottom of the inside legs with four 2"
21⁄2" screws (photo 5). Attach the second inside leg to screws. Clamp the middle cross support in position
the cross support with two 21⁄2" screws and toe-screw it on the middle stretcher and side stretchers. Drill a
into the middle stretcher with one screw (photo 6). 3
⁄8"-diameter × 11⁄2"-deep counterbored hole in the
Repeat the inside leg and cross support assembly top of the cross support and over the center of the
sequence to build the other leg assembly. Fit the side stretchers. Then, drill a 3⁄16" pilot hole the rest of
stretchers into the notches on the sides of the inside the way through the cross support. Attach the cross
legs and secure them with two 21⁄2" screws at each joint. support to the stretchers by using an extended driver
Attach the outside legs to the inside legs with bit or a hand screwdriver to drive a 21⁄2" screw through
three 21⁄2" screws each (photo 7). Attach the bottom each pilot hole and into the side stretcher (photo 8).
Join the supports and legs . Attach
5 one of the cross supports to the inner
leg that has already been attached to
the middle stretcher.
Secure the middle stretcher to the
6 leg assemblies. Attach the second inner
leg to the cross support and toe-screw
this leg into the middle stretcher.
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7 8
Add outside legs to the leg assemblies . Attach an outside Attach the middle cross support . Drill a deep counterbored
leg to the outer edge of each inside leg. The tops of the inside hole halfway through the middle cross support and drill a pilot
and outside legs must be flush. hole through the rest of the cross support. Secure with screws.
Attach the composite tabletop planks to will create a radius line (photo 9). Cut carefully
the cross supports with 2" composite decking along the trim lines with a jigsaw and 12-tooth-per-
screws (these are specially designed to minimize inch blade (photo 10). Also draw 3"-radius lines
"mushrooming" of the composite material around at each corner and then cut along the radius lines.
the screw head). Drive two screws in each board, Use a router and 1⁄4" roundover bit to ease the radius
centered over the cross supports. edges on the ends of the top boards.
To make arcs for trimming lines on the ends of
the tabletops, measure and mark a point 45" in from BUILD THE BENCHES
each end of the table and centered from side to side. The bench part dimensions are different than the
These marks will act as the pivot points for drawing table part dimensions, but the construction process
the radius curves on the tabletop ends. Tie a string is basically the same. The only notable difference
to a pencil or marker and then measure 45" of string is that the benches do not have a middle stretcher.
out from the writing utensil. Hold the string on each Cut the bench parts and build the benches using
pivot point and sweep the pencil or marker across the the same steps and techniques that were used to
tabletop, keeping it perpendicular at all times. This build the table (photo 11).
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9 10
Mark the end curves on the tabletop . Use a 45"-long Cut the curves . Use a jigsaw and 12-TPI blade to cut the arc
string or wood strip as a compass (more accurately, as a at the ends of the tabletop. Be careful to make clean cuts, as
trammel) and a pencil to mark the 45" radius cutting lines on composite material is virtually impossible to sand.
the ends of the tabletop boards.
11
Build the benches . Make the trestle benches using the same procedure you used for building the trestle table. The benches do
not have a middle stretcher.
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Cedar Patio Table
I n these days of plastic-resin or aluminum-and-
bubble-glass patio furniture, it is refreshing to
encounter a nice beefy patio table made of solid
consistent in tone. Most dimensioned cedar sold at
building centers is rough on one face. Either plane
the rough faces smooth or face them inward when you
wood. With a massive base of 4 × 4 cedar, this square install them in this project. Because it’s used for an
patio table definitely has a surplus of sturdiness. Also eating surface, apply a natural, clear linseed-oil finish.
boasting warm wood tones, this all-cedar patio table is
roomy enough to seat six and strong enough to support
a large patio umbrella. The construction process for Materials ▸
this table is very straightforward. The legs and cross
braces are cut from solid 4 × 4 cedar posts and then 3 4 × 4" × 8 ft. cedar Moisture-resistant
they are lag-screwed together. The lag screw heads boards glue
are countersunk below the wood surface. If you can 3 2 × 2" × 8 ft. cedar Deck screws (2", 3")
find them at your local building center, buy heartwood boards 20 3⁄8 × 6" lag screws
cedar posts. Heartwood, cut from the center of 2 1 × 4" × 8 ft. cedar with washers
the tree, is valued for its density, straightness, and boards Finishing materials
resistance to decay. Also, take care when selecting 4 1 × 6" × 8 ft. cedar
the 1 × 4 cedar boards used to make the tabletop. boards
Look for boards that are free of large knots and fairly
This patio table blends sturdy construction with rugged style to offer many years of steady service.
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Patio Table
38 1⁄ 2"
I
46 1⁄ 2"
G
48"
G
H
38 1⁄ 2" D F
B 35 1⁄ 2" E
A
F
D
A
B
B
43 1⁄ 2" A
C
B
A
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Legs 31⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 271⁄4" 4 Cedar F Side cleats 11⁄2 × 11⁄2 × 431⁄2" 2 Cedar
B Stretchers 3 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 20"
1 1
4 Cedar G Side rails 3
⁄4 × 3 ⁄2 × 48"
1
2 Cedar
C Spreader 3 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 28"
1 1
1 Cedar H End rails 3
⁄4 × 3 ⁄2 × 38 ⁄2"
1 1
2 Cedar
D End cleats 1 ⁄2 × 1 ⁄2 × 38 ⁄2"
1 1 1
2 Cedar I Top slats 3
⁄4 × 5 ⁄4 × 46 ⁄2"
1 1
7 Cedar
E Cross cleats 1 ⁄2 × 1 ⁄2 × 35 ⁄2"
1 1 1
2 Cedar
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■ Cedar Patio Table
MAKE THE LEG ASSEMBLIES ATTACH CLEATS & RAILS
Cut the legs, stretchers, and spreader to length. Cut the side rails and end rails to length. Drill two
Measure and mark 4" up from the bottom edge of evenly spaced, 1⁄8" pilot holes through the ends of the
each leg to mark the positions of the bottom edges of side rails. Counterbore the holes 1⁄4" deep to accept
the lower stretchers. Test-fit the legs and stretchers plugs using a counterbore bit. Apply glue and fasten
to make sure they are square. The top stretchers the side rails to the end rails with 2" deck screws.
should be flush with the top leg ends. Carefully Cut the end cleats, cross cleats, and side cleats to
position the pieces and clamp them together with length. Fasten the end cleats to the end rails 3⁄4" below
pipe clamps. The metal jaws on the pipe clamps can the top edges of the rails with glue and 2" deck screws
damage the wood, so use protective clamping pads. (photo 2). Repeat this procedure with the side cleats
Drill 7⁄8"-diameter × 3⁄8"-deep counterbores and side rails.
positioned diagonally across the bottom end of each
leg and opposite the lower stretchers (photo 1). Drill CUT & ATTACH THE TOP SLATS
1
⁄4" pilot holes through the counterbores and into the Cut the top slats to length. Lay the slats into the
stretchers. Unclamp the pieces and drill 3⁄8" guide tabletop frame so they rest on the cleats. Carefully
holes for lag screws through the legs, using the pilot spread the slats apart so they are evenly spaced. Use
holes as center marks. Apply moisture-resistant glue masking tape to hold the slats in place once you
to the ends of the stretchers. Attach the legs to the achieve the correct spacing (photo 3). Stand the
stretchers by driving lag screws with washers through tabletop frame on one end and fasten the top slats in
the legs and into the stretchers. Use the same place by driving two 2" deck screws through the end
procedure to attach the spreader to the stretchers. cleats and into each slat. Hold or clamp each slat
1 2 3
Counterbore two sets of holes on Attach the end cleats to the inside Install the tabletop slats . Use pencils
each leg to recess the lag screws when faces of the end rails. Maintain a 3⁄4" or dowels as spacers to set even gaps
you attach the legs to the stretchers. distance from the top edge of the rails between top slats. Tape the slats in
to the top edge of the cleats. position with masking tape.
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4 5
Fasten cross cleats to the tabletop for strength and to Attach the tabletop to the table base with 2" deck screws.
provide an anchor for the leg assembly. Do not overdrive the screws.
firmly while fastening to prevent the screws from 6
pushing the slats away from the frame (photo 4).
CONNECT THE LEGS & TOP
Turn the tabletop over and center the legs on the
underside. Make sure the legs are the same distance
apart at the top as they are at the bottom. Lay the
cross cleats along the insides of the table legs. Fasten
the cross cleats to the tabletop with 2" deck screws.
Fasten the cross cleats to the legs with 3" deck screws
(photo 5).
APPLY FINISHING TOUCHES
Fill screw hole counterbores with cedar plugs or
buttons for a more finished appearance. Smooth the
edges of the table and legs with a sander or router
(photo 6). If you want to fit the table with a patio
umbrella, use a 11⁄2"-diameter hole saw to cut a hole
into the center of the tabletop. Use a drill and spade
bit to cut the 11⁄2"-diameter hole through the spreader. Sand the surfaces smooth before you stain or treat the
Finish the table as desired. Use clear linseed oil for a patio table. Use the sander to break sharp edges with a slight
natural, nontoxic, and protective finish. roundover.
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Teahouse Table Set
I nspired by low teahouse tables, this table-and-stool set
looks great on a small urban patio or in a Japanese-style
garden. The table height offers a unique perspective on
cut the parts to length. You also need a saw to cut the
tapers—a band saw is best for this, but you could also
use a jigsaw with a long blade or make two mating cuts
the rest of the surroundings and creates a more intimate with a circular saw. The circular top is easiest to cut with
setting for a casual dinner or evening tea. And if the idea of a jigsaw or with a router equipped with a circle-cutting
crouching down to sit in these stools doesn’t appeal to you, jig. The chamfered edge on the tabletop is an optional
then you might still consider building it as a child’s table. detail that requires a router and chamfer bit.
This set is relatively easy to build, but it still features
several appealing and unique design details. The legs of
the table and stools feature reverse tapers, reinforcing
the Eastern design influence. The seats are cupped
slightly for greater comfort. And, the round tabletop has a
Materials ▸
chamfered edge.
Table Stools (4)
You can build this table using any exterior grade
3 1 × 8" × 8 ft. cedar 4 1 × 4" × 8 ft. cedar
lumber, and the parts are sized so that you can find all of
boards boards
the materials at most home centers or lumberyards. This
2 2 × 4" × 8 ft. cedar 5 2 × 4" × 8 ft. cedar
version was built out of cedar and stained with a dark
boards boards
brown, solid semitransparent deck stain, giving it the look
1 4 × 4" × 8 ft. cedar Deck screws (2", 21⁄2")
of dark weathered wood.
board
A few power tools are needed to build this set. First,
you need a saw, such as a miter saw or circular saw, to
Add a touch of Eastern elegance to your patio or transform your gazebo into a teahouse with this simple-to-make
table-and-stool set.
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Author ISBN # Author's review
Outdoor Carpentry 0781760607 (if needed)
Document name OK Correx
Tea Table Set
Artist Date Initials Date
01/15/2009
Accurate Art, Inc.
Check if revision CE's review
Teahouse Table Set BxW 2/C 4/C OK Correx
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
Initials Date
44w x 36d
D
H
B
B
B G
C B F
F G
A
A E
E
A E
E
A
D
B
2"
B
2" B
3 1⁄ 2" C 15"
1
⁄ 4"
TABLETOP 3 1⁄ 2"
CHAMFER
LEG TOP
VIEW B
15"
TABLETOP SUPPORT
DETAIL
Cutting List
Table Stools (4)
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Legs 31⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 22" 4 Cedar E Legs 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 12" 16 Cedar
B Side supports 1 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 26"
1 1
4 Cedar F Seat supports 1 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 18"
1 1
8 Cedar
C Middle support 1 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 30"
1 1
1 Cedar G Seat rails 1 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 12"
1 1
8 Cedar
D Tabletop planks 3
⁄4 × 7 ⁄4 × 37"
1
5 Cedar H Seat planks 3
⁄4 × 3 ⁄2 × 14"
1
20 Cedar
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■ Teahouse Table Set
BUILD THE TABLE BASE best bet for making taper cuts. Mark the taper lines
Begin building the base of the tea table by cutting the on two adjacent sides of each leg (photo 1). Cut the
leg pieces to length. A 10" or 12" power miter saw can tapers with a band saw. Cut the first taper (photo 2)
cut through the 4 × 4 in a single pass, but a circular and then reattach the taper to the leg with tape, flip
saw requires two joining cuts from opposite sides. Set the leg, and cut the second taper (photo 3). Repeat
the saw’s cutting depth so it is slightly deeper than the taper cuts on all four legs and sand the blade
one-half the thickness. Cutting with the blade at full marks smooth.
depth increases the possibility of uneven cuts. Cut the side supports and middle support to
The table legs are created with reverse tapers— length. Trim off the bottom corners of each support
they’re wider at the bottom than the top. If you are an with 30° miter cuts. The miters should end 11⁄2" in
experienced woodworker and have a table saw, use a from the ends of the bottom edges (photo 4). The
tapering jig to make the parts. A band saw is the next table supports fit together with half-lap joints. There
One edge of a straightedge should
1 be on the corner of the leg blank on one
end. The other end of the blank should
be marked 2" in from the edge. Connect
the points to create the taper cutting
line.
2"
Corner
Make the first taper cut . Using
2 a band saw, place one hand on the
tabletop to act as a guide and use your
other hand to push and steer the leg
through the cut.
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are several ways to cut the half-laps notches. In this notch waste area, with the edge of the blade following
case, the notches are all spaced 15" apart so it makes the layout line.
sense to cut them all at the same time—a technique After cutting the sides of the notches, clean
referred to as “gang cutting.” To gang-cut the supports, out the rest of the waste material from the notch by
mark the center on the bottom face of two of the side making several overlapping cuts with the circular saw
supports and the middle support. Also mark the center (photo 6). Smooth any remaining blade marks on the
on the top faces of the two remaining side supports. bottom of the notch with a sharp wood chisel. The
Clamp the supports together with the center marks two bottom side supports also require a middle half-
facing up and aligned. Next, mark the outsides of the lap notch to hold the middle support. Clamp the two
notches on the support that is closest to you and then bottom side supports together and repeat the notch
use a try square or combination square to extend that cutting process for the middle notch.
line across all of the supports (photo 5). Set your Test-fit the parts to make sure everything fits
circular saw blade to a depth of 13⁄4". Make cuts along together and then assemble the table base. First,
the notch edge layout lines. Align the blade inside the apply exterior-rated glue to the inside faces of the
Make the second taper cut .
3 Temporarily reattach the cutoff taper
waste piece with masking tape to
support the leg on the table. With the
leg oriented so the first taper rests on
the table, cut the second taper on the
adjoining face.
Cut off the bottom corners of the
4 supports. Make marks 11⁄2" in from
the ends on the bottom edge of the
supports. Align the power miter saw
blade with these marks and make 30˚
miter cuts.
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notches. Then, place the top side and middle stretchers To lay out the circular shape for the tabletop,
in position on the bottom side stretchers. Drive a 21⁄2" make a compass using a scrap piece of 1⁄4"-thick wood
screw through the bottom of each half-lap joint. Then, or plywood that is roughly 11⁄2" wide × 20" long. Drill
attach the framework to a flat face of each leg (photo 7). two 1⁄8"-diameter holes in the scrap, 183⁄8" apart. Tap
a nail through one of the holes and into the center of
MAKE THE TABLETOP the table. TIP: To find the center, draw straight lines
Make the teahouse tabletop as a square and then across the tabletop from opposite corners. The point
cut it to round after it is assembled. Cut the tabletop where the lines intersect is the center—provided you
planks to length. Then, mark the center of each plank were careful and made the top square. Place a pencil
and attach them in succession to the supports using tip through the other hole in the scrap wood compass
2" deck screws. Center each plank across the middle and draw the perimeter of the tabletop (photo 8).
support, leaving a 1⁄8" gap between the boards. Drill a Cut just outside the round tabletop outline with a
countersunk, 1⁄8"-diameter pilot hole for each screw. jigsaw (photo 9). Then, use a belt sander to smooth
Lay out the notches . Clamp the
5 stretchers together with the centers
aligned. Use a square to extend
the notch cut lines across all of the
stretchers.
Cut the notch shoulders . Cut the
6 sides of the notch first. Then clean
out the middle by making several
overlapping cuts.
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and shape the wood precisely up to the cutting line. faces of the leg. Draw a line from that mark across
Use a router and 45° chamfer bit to profile the top the wide face down to a point that is 2" up from
edge of the table (photo 10). Finally, attach the table the opposite bottom corner of the leg (photo 11).
legs to the tabletop supports with 21⁄2" screws. Drill Cut the tapers with a band saw or jigsaw. Cut the
countersunk pilot holes and drive the screws from the seat supports and seat rails to length. Trim off the
inside faces of the supports. bottom corners of the supports with 30° miter cuts.
The miters should end 11⁄2" in from the ends of the
BUILD THE STOOLS bottom edge.
Make the matching stools. The information on page Mark and cut the 11⁄2" wide by 13⁄4" deep notches
85 lists materials and supplies for four stools. Start using the same gang-cutting techniques used to
by cutting the legs to length. Unlike the table legs, cut the table support notches. Cut the notches in
the bench legs are only tapered on one side. Make a the seat supports as one group and the seat rails as
mark 11⁄2" in from the outside edge of one of the wide another group. The bottom of the seat arc profile
Assemble the base . The framework of
7 the supports is fastened to the legs with
2" screws.
Lay out the circular cutting line .
8 Draw the perimeter of the tabletop
using an 183⁄8" long compass. You can
also use a piece of string as a compass.
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that is cut in the seat supports is located 1" down supports. First, cut the seat planks to length. Clamp
from the top edge and is centered across the support the seat boards to a flat work surface in groups of
side. Tap a finish nail in the bottom point and bend five. The boards should be edge to edge with the
a flexible piece of scrap stock to form the arc profile ends flush. Cut a chamfer profile on both ends
template. Trace the arc profile on the support (photo of all five boards. Unclamp the boards and rout a
12). Cut along the arc line on the first support and chamfer onto the outside edge of each outer board
then use that support as a template to trace the arc using a piloted chamfer bit (photo 13). Space
on the other supports. each set of five seat boards evenly across a seat
assembly and attach them to the seat supports with
ASSEMBLE THE LEGS 2" screws. Drill a countersunk pilot hole for each
Attach the supports and rails with glue and screws screw. Attach the legs to the supports and rails
in the same way that you assembled the table with 21⁄2" screws.
Cut the round tabletop shape . Use a
9 jigsaw to make a rough cut just outside
of the cutting line (inset). Then, use a
belt sander to remove wood precisely
up to the cutting line.
Profile the tabletop edge . Cut a 1⁄2"
10 chamfer profile in the top edge of the
table with a router and 45° chamfering
bit.
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Lay out the bench legs . Draw a taper
11 line across one of the wide faces of
each leg. Cut along the taper line with a
band saw or jigsaw.
Plot the seat support profile . Use a
12 finish nail as a bending point and flex
a piece of scrap stock to create an arc
template. Clamp the template and trace
the profile on the supports.
Cut chamfers in the seat boards .
13 With the workpieces for one complete
stool clamped together edge to edge,
rout the chamfer profile across the
end grain on both ends. The chamfer
matches the tabletop edge profile and
eliminates sharp edges on the seat.
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Folding Table
S turdy, simple, and portable, this table is the
go-everywhere solution for outdoor events that
lack stable surfaces on which to place drinks, food,
time, a nice coat of your favorite bold hue can add a
splash of fun color to your outdoor festivities. A dark
stain can help the table blend into a more complex
or other essentials. The beauty of this table is that, landscape and a clear finish will let the naturally warm
once folded up, it can be stored in a slim space. You look of plain pine shine through.
can even keep it under an overhang or in a tool shed
outside, although don’t be surprised if you become so
enamored with it that you bring it indoors. Materials ▸
For an operable folding structure, the construction
could not be simpler. You’ll find that this doesn’t take 5 2 × 4" × 8 ft. pine 2 3 × 3" brass butt
expert skills and you’ll probably only need about a day boards hinges
to construct the table. You also won’t have to break the 6 1 × 6" × 8 ft. pine 4 3/8 × 4½" carriage
bank; made of ubiquitous pine, the table is relatively boards bolts with lock
inexpensive to put together. Of course, you don’t 3 1 × 4" × 8 ft. pine nuts
necessarily have to use the wood we’ve specified. You boards Wood glue
can always make the table out of cedar and let it age Deck screws 1¼", 2", 1"-dia. washers
naturally for a wonderfully changeable appearance 2½"
over time. 4 1½ × 6"-long strap
Otherwise, you might want to paint or finish the hinges
table. Because it doesn’t have to be in your yard all the
Sturdy and spacious when set up, this portable table folds up into a small package for convenient storage.
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Folding Table
E
H
J
I J
H
I
D
B
C A
G
F
A F
B C
D
F G
1
⁄ 2"
F
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Side rails 1½ × 3½ × 62" 2 Pine F Legs 1½ × 3½ × 28½" 4 Pine
B End rails 1½ × 3½ × 31½" 2 Pine G Stretchers 1½ × 3½ × 28 ⁄8"
3
2 Pine
C Side skirts ¾ × 3½ × 63½" 2 Pine H Cleats 1½ × 3½ × 22" 2 Pine
D End skirts ¾ × 3½ × 34½" 2 Pine I Sweeps 1½ × 3½ × 23" 2 Pine
E Slats ¾ × 5½ × 34½" 11 Pine J Guides ¾ × 3½ × 28" 2 Pine
Note: Measurements reflect the actual size of dimensional lumber.
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■ Folding Table
MAKE THE SIDE SECTIONS create a butt joint with the side rail faces overlapping
Start by cutting the side rails and skirts. These will the end rail ends. Apply glue and drive 2½" deck
create a sturdy support for the slats and, ultimately, for screws through the side rail faces into the end rails.
the table. Position a side skirt against each side rail, Position an end skirt against each end rail,
so that the skirts overhang the rails by 3/4" on the long maintaining the 3/4"-deep ledge for the slats. With the
edge. This creates a healthy lip for the slats to sit on. ends of the end skirts flush with the side rails, drive
Center the side skirts on the side rails so that 3/4" of 1¼" deck screws through the end skirts and into the
the skirt extends at each end (this will be the location of side rails and end rails. Reattach the side skirts and
the overlap joints for each end). Clamp the side skirts to strap hinges.
the side rails, ensuring that they are perfectly aligned—
do not use a skirt or rail that has any bow along its ATTACH THE SLATS
length on edge. Attach the skirts with 1¼" deck screws Cut the slats to length. Rip-cut one slat in half
(you don’t need to countersink the holes). lengthwise. Position one half of the ripped slat on each
Leave the middle of side skirts and side rails free of side of center cut of the side rail, with no gap (the two
screws. Cut these two side assemblies into two equal parts of the slat will separate when the table is folded).
lengths, sawing at the center of the span. Connect the Attach the slats to the side rails, using glue on
halves with 6" brass or galvanized strap hinges attached the face-to-edge contact area, and securing the slats
to the bottom edges of the side rail halves, then remove with 2" deck screws (photo 1). Glue and screw the
the hinges and unscrew the parts before proceeding. remaining slats evenly spaced down the side rail.
Drill 3/8"-diameter counterbored holes for carriage
ATTACH THE END SECTIONS bolts through each end of the side skirts and side rails for
Cut the end rails and skirts. Position the end rails the legs. Center the holes 4¼" in from the ends of the
between the side rails, flush with the side rail ends to side skirts and 13/4" up from the bottoms of the side rails.
1
Once the frame is built with the side rails and skirts attached, glue and drill the two halves of the split slat on either side of the
center cut through the rail, which allows the table to fold.
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MAKE THE LEGS
Cut the legs and stretchers. Cut a 10° miter across 2
the broad face of each leg at one end. At the other
end of each leg, use a compass to draw a centered,
13/4"-radius semicircle. Mark the center of the
semicircle and drill a 3/8"-diameter hole.
Draw a line across one face of each leg, 14" down
from the top. Position the legs in pairs on the work
surface. Slide a stretcher between each leg pair with
the top faces on the reference lines. Glue and screw
the stretchers between the legs with 2½" deck screws.
MAKE THE CLEATS
Cut the cleats. The cleats have 1" notches on one Align the ends of the guides with the outside edges of the
long edge to allow folding. To mark the notches, draw sweeps. These need to be perfectly aligned for the opening
reference lines across one edge of each cleat, 3½", mechanism to lock correctly. Glue and screw the guides in place.
7¼", and 18½" from one end.
Cut the notches 1" deep from the 3½" line to the
7¼" line, and from the 18½" line to the ends. Cut each 3
cleat in half. Attach the cleat halves with strap hinges.
ATTACH THE SWEEPS AND GUIDES
The sweeps and guides attach to the cleats to form
a locking mechanism. Cut the sweeps and guides.
Position the guides on the cleats, flush with edges
of notches. Attach with glue and 2½" deck screws
(photo 2).
Turn the tabletop upside down. Position the cleats
and guides inside the tabletop so the hinged centers
align. Use 13/4"-thick spacers to center the cleats
between the side rails. Fasten them to the bottom of With the cleats centered between the side rails, it’s an easy
the table with glue and 2" deck screws (photo 3). task to screw them in place.
Attach 3" brass butt hinges to one end of each sweep,
then use the hinges to attach a sweep to one end of
each cleat. 4
APPLY FINISHING TOUCHES
Fasten the legs inside the tabletop, using carriage
bolts, washers, and lock nuts (photo 4). Check
for smooth operation and make any adjustments as
necessary for the legs to open smooth and the table to
lock in the open position.
Cover the screwheads with wood putty. Sand with
100- or 120-grit sandpaper, and paint or finish
as desired.
Secure the legs in place with carriage bolts, washers, and
lock nuts.
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Occasional Table
W hen it comes to outdoor furniture, most of the
attention is usually given to big, splashy tables that
will seat lots of people or provide abundant space for
exposure to the elements, it also ages with a very
nice gray patina. Cedar can also be finished clear to
maintain the lovely fresh appearance of the wood.
food next to a grill. But, while there is certainly a need However, you can save some money and craft
for expansive tabletop space, it’s the rare yard or outdoor it out of pine, an especially good choice if you plan
seating area that can’t benefit from at least one more on painting the table. If your area of the country
modest accent table. Put a side table next to a lounge or experiences harsh weather and you don’t intend on
in between two Adirondack chairs and you add a place moving the table into a garage or shed during winter,
for drinks, snacks, or the book you’re reading. you might choose pressure-treated pine.
The table in this project is amazingly simple, but
with a few special touches, it’s also a stylish accent for
your porch, deck, or patio. It is a nicely proportioned Materials ▸
structure that will complement patio or deck seating,
and is light enough to be moved wherever you need 2 1 × 3" × 8-ft. 1¼" deck screws
a small table. It is also stable enough to be placed on cedar boards Moisture-resistant
grass or gravel—so it can go just about anywhere in 9 1 × 4" × 8-ft. glue
the yard it might be needed. cedar boards
The table is made out of cedar so it can be left
outdoors all year long, and cedar not only tolerates
This sturdy accent table is an easy-to-build addition to your deck furniture. As stylish as it is simple, the design pairs nicely with
an Adirondack chair.
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Occasional Table
G
F E C
B
A
E
G
E
F
A C
E
F B
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A End aprons ¾ × 3½ × 26½" 2 Cedar E Narrow leg sides ¾ × 2½ × 17¼" 4 Cedar
B Side aprons ¾ × 3½ × 25" 2 Cedar F Wide leg sides ¾ × 2½ × 17¼" 4 Cedar
C End stringers ¾ × 2½ × 18" 2 Cedar G Slats ¾ × 3½ × 25" 7 Cedar
D Middle stringer ¾ × 2½ × 25" 1 Cedar
Note: Measurements reflect the actual size of dimensional lumber.
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■ Occasional Table
MAKE THE STRINGERS, APRONS & LEGS
Cut the end aprons and side aprons to length. 1
Because the end aprons overlap the side aprons to
form butt joints, the side aprons must be shorter.
Mark them on the inside face so that you don’t
confuse them during construction.
Cut the end stringers and middle stringer to
length. Note that these two are different lengths. The
middle stringer will provide support that keeps the
table sturdy and durable over the long run.
Each leg is formed of two pieces—one narrow
and one wide—cut at a taper. The taper adds a bit of
visual flair to the table, but the tapers have to be cut
correctly or the effect will be ruined. Start by cutting Carefully measure and mark the taper cutting lines for both
the wide and the narrow sides of the legs. Work on the wide
the narrow and wide leg sides to length.
sides first, and then the narrow, to avoid mixing them up and
On one wide leg, measure 83/4" down along one mis-measuring the cut lines.
edge of the leg side and make a mark. Measure across
the bottom end of the leg side 1½" and make another
mark. Use a straightedge to connect the two marks to
create a leg taper cutting line. Mark cutting lines for
2
tapers on all four wide leg sides (photo 1).
For the tapers on the narrow legs, measure 83/4"
down along one edge and make a mark as before. Then
measure 3/4" across the bottom end and make a mark.
Connect the marks to make the taper cutting lines.
Clamp each leg side to the work surface. Cut along
the line using a jigsaw or circular saw (photo 2).
ASSEMBLE THE LEGS
The legs must be assembled precisely to maintain the
illusion of solid tapered legs in each corner. Apply a A jigsaw is ideal for cutting the taper lines in the legs,
½"-wide bead of moisture-resistant glue on the face of although you can also use a circular saw.
3
Work on a perfectly flat surface to ensure the leg sides are exactly aligned. Apply a bead of glue where the inside face overlaps
the edge of the smaller leg piece, and then drill three countersunk holes and screw the pieces together.
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4 5
Drill two pilot holes at each end and in the middle of each Rounding off the edges of the table gives it a very polished
slat, down into the end and middle stringers. Attach each slat appearance. Cover it with the finish of your choice and the
with glue and screws at each location. project is complete.
a wide leg side, down along the untapered edge (the stringer between the end stringers. Use glue and
mating edge for the other leg piece). Repeat on the screws to attach the middle stringer to the side
untapered edge of a narrow leg side. Join the leg sides aprons, 3/4" down from tops to maintain the ledge for
together at a right angle to form a leg pair. the slats.
Drill and countersink pilot holes for screws to
reinforce the joint between the leg pieces. Use three CUT AND INSTALL THE SLATS
1¼" deck screws. Glue and screw the rest of the leg Measure the inside dimension between the end
pairs in the same manner (photo 3). Be careful not to aprons to verify the correct slat length. Measure at
use too much glue or mismatch the legs. different points along the aprons to check that the
frame is square and all the slats should be the same
CONSTRUCT THE FRAME length. Cut the slats.
The table frame will securely hold the tabletop slats Drill countersunk pilot holes at each end of each
in place. Work from the outside in by gluing and slat, down into the middle and end stringers. Glue and
screwing the side aprons to leg pairs. Carefully align screw the slats into the tops of the middle and end
the aprons and legs so that there are no unsightly stringers, leaving a gap of approximately 1⁄16" between
overlaps or gaps in the frame construction. the slats (photo 4).
Screw the legs to the aprons from the inside of
each leg pair to conceal the screw heads. The narrow FINISH THE TABLE
leg side should face in toward the center of the side A little easy detailing will give this table a lovely
apron, and the outside faces of the wide leg sides flush look next to your other outdoor furniture. Smooth all
with the side apron ends. The leg pairs’ tops should be sharp edges by using a router with a roundover bit
3/4" down from the side aprons’ tops to create recesses (photo 5) or a power sander with medium-grit (100
for the tabletop slats. to 120) sandpaper. Finish-sand and thoroughly clean
Glue and screw the end aprons to the leg the table to remove any sanding residue.
assemblies with the end aprons’ ends positioned with Finish the table with a clear wood sealer or paint
the outside faces of side aprons. it in a color of your choice.
Glue and screw the end stringers to the end
aprons between the leg pairs. Center the middle
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Children’s Picnic Table
P icnic tables come in many styles, shapes, and sizes,
with one of the sizes being “pint.” This downscaled
kids’ picnic table is a wonderful addition to any
a roundover bit in your router or laminate trimmer and
shape the edges all to the same profile.
The table seen here is built with cedar and coated
backyard where children play. Its light weight allows with a clear, UV-protective sealant. You could also make
you to move the table around the yard for impromptu it from pressure-treated pine and paint it or finish it
tea parties on the deck or dinner under the trees. Yet with a semitransparent deck stain. If you do use treated
its wide footprint makes it extremely stable so your lumber, be sure to choose hot-dipped lag bolts that are
rambunctious little ones won’t tip it over. triple-coated to limit corrosion. Or, better yet, use all
Constructing this kid-sized picnic table is easy. The stainless steel fasteners.
trickiest part is probably getting the angles cut correctly
at the tops and bottoms of the legs. They should be
cut at a relatively shallow 50° angle. If they are cut Materials ▸
too steeply the table will be taller and less stable; too
shallow and it will be shorter and very difficult to seat 2 2 × 4" × 6 ft. cedar Deck screws (21⁄2")
oneself in. boards 16 3⁄8 × 3" carriage
With a kids’ project such as this it is important 3 2 × 6" × 8 ft. cedar bolts with nuts
that you eliminate any sharp edges and do a thorough boards 32 washers
job sanding the surfaces smooth and splinter free. 3 2 × 8" × 8 ft. cedar
The edges of the boards can be “broken” by sanding boards
them lightly so they are not sharp. Or, you can install
This kid-scale table with benches makes picnicking in the backyard even more fun for children. And with its broad legs and low
top it is very stable.
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Children’s Picnic Table
F
G
F
D
B
A
D
E
C B
A
A
C
A
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Legs 11⁄2 × 51⁄2 × 32" 4 Cedar E Brace 11⁄2 × 51⁄2 × 30" 1 Cedar
B Table supports 1 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 29 ⁄4"
1 1 3
2 Cedar F Tabletops (wide) 1 ⁄2 × 7 ⁄2 × 48"
1 1
4 Cedar
C Seat supports 1 ⁄2 × 5 ⁄2 × 60"
1 1
2 Cedar G Tabletop (thin) 1 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 48"
1 1
1 Cedar
D Seats 1 ⁄2 × 7 ⁄2 × 48"
1 1
2 Cedar
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■ Children’s Picnic Table
CUT THE ANGLED LEGS & SUPPORTS Cut the brace. Center the brace between the seat
To make the angled legs, use a saw protractor to mark supports, making sure they’re flush at the bottom.
a 50° angle on one end of a 2 × 6 (photo 1). Cut the Drill two 3⁄32" pilot holes through the supports on each
angle using a circular saw. Measure 32" from the tip of side, then fasten the brace to the supports using 21⁄2"
the angle, then mark and cut another 50° angle parallel deck screws. Cut the tabletop boards to length. Place
to the first. Do this for all four legs, cutting two legs the 2 × 4 tabletop across the center of the tabletop
from one piece of lumber. supports, overhanging the supports by 71⁄2". Drill two
Cut the table supports to length. Measure 11⁄2" 3
⁄32" pilot holes on both ends of the top board where
in from each end of both supports and make a mark. it crosses the supports. Attach it to the supports with
Make a 45° angle starting at the mark and going in the 21⁄2" deck screws.
direction of the board end. This relieves the sharp end Place a 2 × 8 tabletop board across the supports,
of the board to prevent injuries and also looks more keeping a 1⁄4" gap from the 2 × 4. Drill pilot holes in the
pleasing. Cut the seat supports to length. Measure 21⁄2" end of the board, then insert 21⁄2" deck screws (photo 3).
from the ends of both supports, make a mark, and cut Install the remaining top boards the same way, spacing
a 45° angle to relieve the sharp ends. them evenly with a 1⁄4" gap. Allow the outside boards to
overhang the end of the tabletop supports.
ASSEMBLE THE A-FRAMES
Place one of the legs against the tabletop support so FINISHING TOUCHES
the inside edge of the leg is at the centerpoint of the Sand any rough surfaces and splinters, and round
support. Align the top of the leg with the top of the over edges on the seat and tabletop using 150-grit
support. Clamp the pieces together. Drill two 3⁄8" holes sandpaper. Apply a stain, sealer (foodsafe boiled
through the leg and support. Stagger the holes. To keep linseed oil is a good choice), or paint.
the bolts from causing scrapes, recess both the bolt
head and nut. Drill 1"-diameter counterbored holes
about 1⁄4" deep into the legs and the tabletop supports.
Insert a 3⁄8 × 3" carriage bolt and washer into each hole.
Tighten a washer and nut on the end of the bolt using
a ratchet wrench. Repeat these steps to fasten the
1
second leg in place. Note: If your washers are larger than
1", drill a larger counterbore.
Measure along the inside edge of each leg and
make a mark 121⁄2" up from the bottom. Center the
seat support over the leg assembly, on the same side
of the legs as the tabletop support, with the 45° cuts
facing down and the bottom flush with the 121⁄2"
marks. Clamp the two pieces together and then drill 3⁄8"
holes with 1"-diameter counterbored holes. Fasten the
seat support to the legs using carriage bolts, nuts, and
washers (photo 2). Repeat this step to assemble the
second A-frame.
ATTACH THE TABLETOP & SEATS
Cut the seat boards to length. Stand one of the
A-frames upright. Place a seat on the seat support so
the seat overhangs the outside of the support by 71⁄2".
Align the back edge of the seat with the end of the
support. Drill two 3⁄32" pilot holes through the seat into
the support and then drive 21⁄2" deck screws. Attach the
seat to the second A-frame the same way. Fasten the seat Use a saw protractor to mark a 50° angle on the end of the
on the other side of the table using the same method. table leg, and then cut the angle using a circular saw.
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Fasten the tabletop and seat
2 supports to the legs with carriage
bolts. Do not use washers with carriage
bolt heads. The washers and nuts are
recessed in counterbored holes to
prevent injury.
Install the tabletop boards by drilling
3 pilot holes and driving 21⁄2" deck screws.
Insert 1⁄4" spacers between boards.
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Traditional Picnic Table
E very backyard needs a picnic table, and this one
is a classic. The design, with two long built-in
benches attached to the sides of an abundant tabletop,
cedar, which has the same properties and looks just
as nice as redwood. Of course, if you’d like to save a
bit of money, you can use pine. Nicer woods are best
can serve many different purposes. It is ideal for finished in a clear sealer or a light wood stain. Pine is
outdoor dining, whether you’re having an intimate often painted. You can make the legs from pressure
dinner for two or a large birthday party meal. Many treated lumber for greater longevity, but usually this
people can cram in around the table, and the setup isn’t necessary and in any case, PT lumber should not
allows for easy access to anything on the table, no generally be painted.
matter where you happen to be sitting.
This table design is timeless largely because it is
so durable. The picnic table is built to last and will
take a lot of abuse. Spills, hot plates full of grilled Materials ▸
meat, dropped items and more won’t faze this table.
But the table remains popular because it is also a 1 2 × 6" × 6 ft. 3
/8" × 3" carriage
handsome form. Simple to build, the look is appealing cedar board bolts with
and seems to fit right in no matter what landscape, 1 2 × 6" × 10 ft. washers
patio surface or outdoor area it’s assigned to. cedar board 2½" and 3" deck
It’s also adaptable. The traditional material for 1 2 × 4" × 10 ft. screws
this type of table is redwood, which will resist rot and cedar board
the elements quite naturally. You can also go with
Few pieces of outdoor furniture are so useful—and have such a classic look—as the traditional picnic table with benches on
either side.
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Traditional Picnic Table
29"
A
D
E
131/2"
A A
301/2"
B C B
151/2" 17"
581/2"
72"
D D A
F
E E
301/2"
A
C G C
17"
B B
52"
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Slats 11⁄2 × 51⁄2 × 72" 9 2×6 E Bracess 1½ × 31⁄2 × 301⁄2" 2 2×4
B Legs 11⁄2 × 51⁄2 × 32" 4 2×6 F Top cleat 1½ × 3 ⁄2 × 26"
1
1 2×4
C Seat supports 1 ⁄2 × 5 ⁄2 × 57"
1 1
2 2×6 G Seat cleat 1½ × 3 ⁄2 × 10"
1
2 2×4
D Top supports 1 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 26"
1 1
2 2×4
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■ Traditional Picnic Table
CUT THE LUMBER TO SIZE ASSEMBLE THE A-FRAME
The most challenging cuts for the whole table are the Mark the centers of the tabletop supports. Measure
legs, which need to be mitered to stand at angles to 23/4" out from this centerline and make another mark.
the table. Make a 25° miter cut across one end of a Place one leg against the tabletop support with the
2 × 6. Measure 32" from the tip of the angle and cut inside leg edge aligned with the second mark. Align
a second 65° miter parallel to the first (photo 1). the angled cut of the leg with the support tops. Clamp
This makes one leg. Use the first leg as a template for the pieces together.
laying out the other legs. Align the legs and seat and top support on the
Cut three 2 × 4 tabletop supports 26" long. 23/4" and 15½" marks. Fasten the supports to the legs
Measure 1½" from each end of the two end supports, with a 2½" deck screw at each joint (avoid the bolt
make a mark, and cut a 45° angle. For the flat center locations). Then drill guide holes for the bolts.
support, measure 3/4 × 3/4" and cut this miter at the Drill two 3/8" holes through the leg and support.
bottom of each end. Counterbore 1" holes centered over the 3/8" hole
Cut two 2 × 6 seat supports 57" long. Measure about ½" deep into the support (photo 2). Insert and
2½" from the ends of both supports, make a mark, and tighten a 3/8 × 3" carriage bolt into each hole. Repeat
cut a 45° angle. Cut two 2 × 4 seat stiffeners 10" long. for the second leg.
The bench and tabletop boards don’t need to be cut.
Use an adjustable square to determine
1 and mark the parallel miter cuts at each
end of one leg. Once you’ve cut the
first leg you can use it as a template for
laying out the parallel ends cuts on the
three remaining legs.
Drill 1"-dia . counterbore holes for the
2 carriage bolts that connect the legs and
the supports. When using a spade bit
to drill counterbores it is easier if you
drill the counterbore before the guide
hole that goes all the way through both
workpieces.
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Attach the leg assemblies using
3 carriage bolts, washers, and locking nuts.
The legs on each side are assembled
before attaching the tabletop and seat
boards.
Drill countersunk pilot holes for the
4 screws that fasten the tabletop and seat
tops to the supports.
Measure along the leg’s outside edge and mark Turn the table upside down. Attach a seat
15½" from the bottom. Center the seat support over stiffener to the underside of each seat at its midpoint,
the leg assembly, on the same side of the legs as the using 2½" deck screws. Attach the tabletop stiffener
tabletop support, with 45° cuts facing down and the to the underside of the tabletop at its midpoint, using
top flush with the 15½" marks. Drill 3/8" guide holes 2½" deck screws.
with a 1"-diameter counterbore, and fasten the seat Cut two braces 30¼" long, mitering one end 50°
support to the legs using carriage bolts (photo 3). and the other at 40°, at intersecting, not parallel,
Repeat for the second A-frame. angles. Test fit the braces with the 50° angle against
the seat support, and the 40° against the tabletop
ATTACH THE TABLETOP & SEATS brace. The tabletop end needs to have the tip of the
To make sure you don’t strip any screws, drill 3/32" angle clipped off. Mark and make this cut.
countersunk pilot holes for all the screws. Drill 3/32" countersunk pilot holes and attach the
Stand one A-frame upright. Place a 2 × 6 seat braces with 3" deck screws.
board on the seat support, overhanging the outside
of the support by 8½". Align the seat back edge with FINISH THE TABLE
the end of the support. Attach with 2½" deck screws. Round over the edges of the tabletop and seat tops,
Repeat on the opposite side. to avoid catching on clothing or hurting anyone who
Place 2 × 6 tabletop boards across the tabletop bumps the edges. For best results, use a router with a
supports, overhanging at the ends 8½". Space roundover bit to cut the profiles; alternatively, ease all
the boards evenly across the tabletop supports, edges with a power sander and 100 grit sandpaper. Sand
overhanging the supports by 1½". Fasten the boards all surfaces to 120- or 150 grit and apply a clear sealant
with 2½" deck screws (photo 4). or stain or paint the table your choice of colors.
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Patio Prep Cart
T his elegant rolling cook’s cart will take your outdoor
cooking to a higher level without breaking your bank
account.Whether the point is to impress or simply to make
construction adhesive (instead of thinset mortar) and
the joints between the tiles are filled with exterior caulk
(instead of tile grout).
your outdoor entertaining a bit more pleasant, setting up
an outdoor kitchen that revolves around this clever cart
and an ordinary grill is easy. And, because this cart (and Materials ▸
most grills) are on wheels, they’re easy to move as needed
and to roll away into storage. 18 1 × 4" × 8 ft. cedar 8 12 × 12" floor tiles
This cart features 8 square feet of countertop space, boards Exterior-rated screws
a storage cabinet with shelves, and a dedicated place for 4 2 × 4" × 8 ft. cedar (11⁄4", 21⁄2")
a refrigerator. The sides are made from 1 × 4 cedar or boards Lag screws (16 @ 1⁄4" ×
a similar exterior-grade lumber. Use corrosion-resistant 1 ⁄4" × 4 × 8 ft. cedar
3
11⁄2")
screws to assemble this cart. The screws that attach the plywood 2 3" utility hinges
siding are driven from the outside, leaving the heads 1 1⁄2 × 3" × 5 ft. 4 Casters
exposed to act as a design feature. cementboard 1 Door handle
This outdoor kitchen cart employs eight 12 × 12" tiles 1 3⁄4 × 24" × 48 ft. 1 Catch
for the countertop, minimizing the joints in the countertop exterior plywood
surface. To simplify construction the tiles are set with
Both attractive and functional, this rolling cook’s cart with space for a refrigerator will make your deck or patio almost as
convenient as your kitchen for entertaining friends and family.
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Document name
Patio Prep Cart.eps
Artist Date Initials Date
03/24/2009
Accurate Art, Inc.
Check if revision CE's review
BxW 2/C 4/C OK Correx
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
Initials Date
44w x 36d
Patio Prep Cart
R
Tile
Cementboard
(Q)
F
S
C
R B
Plywood B
(P) B
F F
I J
E
B K
L B
D M
K N
L H
K
G
B
M
A
O
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Bottom supports 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 46" 2 Cedar K Shelf supports ⁄8 × 1 × 17"
7
4 Cedar
B Posts 1 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 35"
1 1
6 Cedar L Shelves 3
⁄4 × 19 ⁄2 × 21 ⁄4"
1 3
2 Cedar plywood
C Top rails 7
⁄8 × 3 ⁄2 × 46"
1
2 Cedar M Door stiles ⁄8 × 3 ⁄2 × 34 ⁄2"
7 1 1
2 Cedar
D Bottom panel 3
⁄4 × 22 × 46" 1 Cedar plywood N Top door siding ⁄8 × 1 × 18 ⁄2"
7 1
1 Cedar
E Center panel 3
⁄4 × 22 × 35" 1 Cedar plywood O Door siding ⁄8 × 3 ⁄2 × 18 ⁄2"
7 1 1
9 Cedar
F Corner stiles 7
⁄8 × 21⁄2 × 371⁄4" 4 Cedar P Worksurface subbase 3
⁄4 × 24 × 48" 1 Ext. plywood
G Front center stile 7
⁄8 × 21⁄2 × 353⁄8" 1 Cedar Q Tile backer 1
⁄2 × 24 × 48" 1 Cementboard
H Front bottom rail 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄4 × 42 ⁄4"
3 3
1 Cedar R Side edging ⁄8 × 1 ⁄2 × 24"
7 1
2 Cedar
I Back siding 7
⁄8 × 3 ⁄2 × 42 ⁄4"
1 1
10 Cedar S Front/back edging ⁄8 × 1 ⁄2 × 49 ⁄2"
7 1 1
2 Cedar
J Side siding 7
⁄8 × 3 ⁄2 × 22"
1
20 Cedar
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■ Patio Prep Cart
BUILD THE FRAME Cut the side siding and back siding pieces to length.
This outdoor kitchen cart is essentially a skeleton of Drill two countersunk pilot holes in each end of each
2 × 4 cedar wrapped in cedar siding and capped off siding board. Space the holes 1" in from the ends and
with large tiles. Start by building the skeleton: that is, 3
⁄4" in from the edges. Attach the siding boards to the
the frame. Cut the bottom supports, posts, and top corner posts with 11⁄4" screws, spacing the boards 1⁄4"
rails to length. Cut the bottom panel and center panel apart (photo 4). Drill a 11⁄4"-diameter hole near the
to length and width. Attach two of the posts to the bottom of the back of the refrigerator section for the
center panel with 11⁄4" screws. Place the center panel power cord to fit through.
and bottom panel on their sides and attach the bottom
panel to the posts with 21⁄2" screws (photo 1). With INSTALL THE SHELVES
the panels on their edges, attach two of the corner The shelves for this outdoor cart are optional. As
posts to the bottom panel. Flip the assembly right-side shown, they’re spaced to allow storage of items of
up and attach one of the top rails to the top of the varying height, such as plates and cups. But if you
corner posts and center panel post. Attach the other want to store taller items, such as bags of charcoal or a
two corner posts and top rail (photo 2). Attach the turkey fryer, eliminate the shelves from the plan.
bottom supports to the bottom panel with 11⁄4" screws. Measure and mark the shelf heights on the inside
faces of the left side siding and center divider. Here,
INSTALL THE CORNERS, TRIM & SIDING the shelves are spaced so the lowest shelf opening is
Cut the corner stiles to length and width. Attach the 15" high. The middle opening is 10" high and the top
corner stiles to the corner posts with four 11⁄4" screws. opening is 8" high. The shelf supports are sized so the
Drill a countersunk, 1⁄8"-diameter pilot hole for each shelves will not interfere with the front corner posts.
screw (photo 3). Cut the front-bottom rail to length Attach the shelf supports with 11⁄4" screws driven
and width and attach it to the front-bottom support through countersunk pilot holes in the supports and
with four 11⁄4" screws and decorative finish washers. into the cabinet walls. Cut the shelves from 3⁄4"-thick
1 2
2 × 4 Post
Attach the bottom panel to the posts . Drive 21⁄2" screws Install corner posts and top rails . Each top rail should be
through the underside of the bottom panel and into the ends of attached to a corner post and a center panel post with 21⁄2"
the center panel posts. screws. Drive one screw into each post.
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3 4
Install cornerboards . Attach the corner stiles to the corner Add siding . Drill two countersunk pilot holes through each
posts with 11⁄4" screws. Align the inside edges of the stiles end of each siding board. Locate the holes 1" from the ends
and posts. and 3⁄4" from the top and bottom edges. Attach the siding
boards with 11⁄4" screws, spaced with a 1⁄4" gap between boards.
plywood (preferably cedar plywood). Cut 11⁄2 × 31⁄2"
notches in the left corners of each shelf board to fit
around the posts. Drive a few brads down through the 5
shelves and into the supports to secure them (photo 5).
BUILD THE DOOR
Cut the door stiles to length. Cut the door siding to
length and the top door siding board to length and
width. Drill two countersunk pilot holes in each end
of each full-width door siding board. Space the holes
1" in from the ends and 3⁄4" in from the edges. Drill
one countersunk pilot hole in each end of the top
door siding board. Attach the siding boards to the door
stiles with 11⁄4" screws (photo 6).
ATTACH THE WHEELS & HARDWARE
Tip the cabinet upside down and place one caster in
each corner (here, 21⁄2" casters are being installed).
Mark the caster screw holes and drill 3⁄16" pilot holes
for each screw. Fasten the casters with 1⁄4 × 11⁄2" hot-
dipped lag screws (photo 7). To hang the door, attach
zinc-plated or brass hinges (a pair of 3" butt hinges will
do) to the door and the left corner post and corner stile
(photo 8). Also add a handle (an aluminum door pull
installed vertically is used here) as well as a latch and Install the shelves . Attach the shelf supports with screws
strikeplate to hold the door closed. and then tack the shelves into position with 11⁄4" brads.
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6 BUILD & ATTACH THE TOP
The top for this cart features a 3⁄4"-thick plywood
subbase that supports a cementboard backer for
the tiles (here, eight 12 × 12" porcelain tiles). Cut
the plywood subbase to size from exterior plywood
and attach it to the top rails with 11⁄4" deck screws.
Cut a piece of tile backer board (here, 1⁄2"-thick
cementboard) to 24 × 48". Attach the backer board to
the subbase with construction adhesive and 1" screws
(make sure the screwheads are recessed below the
cementboard surface). Attach the tiles to the backer
board with construction adhesive (photo 9).
Cut the top sides, front, and back edging pieces
to length from cedar 1 × 2. Drill countersunk,
1
⁄8"-diameter pilot holes in the edging pieces and
attach them to the subbase edges with construction
adhesive and brads (photo 10). Fill gaps around tile
with caulk. Apply a clear, UV-protectant finish to the
Attach the door siding boards to the door stiles. The top wood surface and seal the tiles.
door siding board is attached with only one screw in each end.
7 8
Attach the casters . Position each caster and drill pilot Hang the door and install hardware . Fasten the door
holes for each caster screw. Attach the casters with 1⁄4 × 11⁄4" hinges to the door (or doors if you choose to cover each
lag screws. opening) and then attach the door to the cart frame. Use a 1⁄4"
spacer under the door to position it.
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Install the tile work surface .
9 Instead of traditional thinset mortar,
exterior construction adhesive is being
used because it better withstands
temperature and humidity changes.
Attach countertop edging . Made
10 from strips of 1 × 2 cedar, the edging
hides the countertop edges and
protects the tile. Fill the gaps around the
edge tiles and between tiles with caulk.
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Pitmaster’s Locker
S upplies and accessories for your outdoor grilling
and barbecuing have special storage requirements.
Some, such as charcoal starter fluid and propane tanks
and bottles, are hazardous, flammable chemicals that
should be locked safely away outside of the house or
garage. Other supplies, such as big bags of charcoal
briquettes, turkey fryers, or starter chimneys, are
bulky and often dirty or dusty. Additional tools, like
grill brushes, thermometers, rib racks, and Texas-size
kitchen utensils, are best kept together in a neat area
close to your grill. This Pitmaster’s Locker addresses
all of these concerns in a rugged-looking package that
fits in well with today’s popular grilling equipment.
The frame for this grill locker is made with solid
aluminum angle iron, sold at most building centers.
Aluminum is rigid, sturdy, and withstands exposure
to the elements very well. It is also relatively easy to
drill, which you will appreciate. Because the metals
market is fairly volatile, costs for aluminum can run
on the high side. But if you buy in volume you can
usually save a little money. Our eight pieces of 72"
aluminum angle cost us $130 from an Internet seller
(this is at a time of high metal costs). If you like
this design but want to save some money, you can
substitute paintable hardwood, such as poplar, for
the frame parts. This requires recalculating the shelf
and panel dimensions, however.
The lower shelf of this locker has 24" of height
capacity. If you plan to store a 20-pound propane tank
on this shelf, you can lower the supports for the middle
shelf by 6" and still have enough room for the 171⁄2" tall
standard tanks. This creates a middle shelf that has 30"
of height capacity (or two shorter shelves).
Materials ▸
8 1⁄16 × 11⁄2 × 72" solid Exterior hasp with
aluminum angle padlock
2 3⁄8" × 4 × 8 ft. sheet 3 2 × 2" butt hinges
rough cedar siding 1
⁄4 × 3⁄4" bolts
1 3⁄4" × 4 × 8 ft. 1
⁄4" lock nuts
exterior plywood 3
⁄4" hex-head wood
1 1⁄4 × 3⁄4" × 8 ft. wood screws
shelf edge Aluminum pop rivets
2 1 × 2" × 8 ft. cedar For the serious grill cook (a Pitmaster in barbecuer’s
boards parlance), a lockable, dedicated storage locker is the best place
to keep tools, fuel, and other supplies organized and safe.
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Author ISBN # Author's review
Outdoor Carpentry 0781760607 (if needed)
Document name OK Correx
Pitmaster Locker.eps
Artist Date Initials Date
03/24/2009
Accurate Art, Inc.
Check if revision CE's review
BxW 2/C 4/C OK Correx
Pitmaster’s Locker Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
44w x 36d Initials Date
C E
F
B
B
C
K
H
B
H
D
J
F
G K
B J
I
D G
B
K
B
D
K
A
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Frame legs 1
⁄16 × 1 ⁄2 × 72"
1
4 Aluminum angle G Side panels 3
⁄8 × 16 × 23 ⁄2" 1
4 Cedar siding
B Shelf supports 1
⁄16 × 1 ⁄2 × 18"
1
12 Aluminum angle H Side panels (top) 3
⁄8 × 16 × 21" 2 Cedar siding
C Frame tops 1
⁄16 × 1 ⁄2 × 18 ⁄4"
1 1
2 Aluminum angle I Door panel 3
⁄8 × 14 × 67" 1 Ext. plywood
D Shelves 3
⁄4 × 17 × 16" 3 Ext. plywood J Door stiles 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄2 × 68"
1
2 Cedar
E Top* 3
⁄4 × 17 ⁄2 × 18 ⁄2"
1 1
1 Ext. plywood K Door rails 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄2 × 12"
1
4 Cedar
F Back panel 3
⁄8 × 18 × 70" 1 Cedar siding L Top trim(opt.)** 1 × 1" × cut to fit 4 Corner molding
*Exposed edges finished with ⁄4 x ⁄4" wood shelf edge
1 3
**Not shown
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■ Pitmaster’s Locker
MAKE THE METAL FRAME Once the guide hole is drilled, insert a 1⁄4 × 3⁄4" bolt and
The framework for this locker is built from solid add a locknut on the interior side (photo 3). Hand-
aluminum angle (1⁄16" thick × 11⁄2" wide each tighten the nut, but wait until the entire frame
direction). Although aluminum is very rigid, it is is assembled and squared before tightening nuts all
also relatively soft and very workable for cutting and the way.
drilling. You can easily cut the metal parts for this After all of the joints are secured with hand-
project with a hacksaw, though keeping the cuts tightened bolts, check the assembly with a framing
straight can be tricky. If you have access to a metal square and adjust as needed. Begin fully tightening
cutoff saw, it will save a lot of time—you might consider the locknuts. Grasp each nut with a locking pliers
renting one. Do not install an abrasive blade in a power and tighten the bolt head with a socket and ratchet or
miter saw. You can also use a reciprocating saw or a cordless impact driver (photo 4).
jigsaw with a bimetal blade, as seen here (photo 1).
Whichever saw you use, clean up and deburr the cut ADD THE PLYWOOD PANELS & SHELVES
edges with a bench grinder. Cut the shelves to size from 3⁄4" thick plywood (use
Lay out shelf locations on the frame legs with a quality plywood such as AB or BC as opposed to
wax crayon or pencil (avoid permanent markers, as sheathing or CDX). Cut the panels from rough-
they work but the marks cannot be erased). Install textured cedar siding panels (these come in 4 × 8-foot
shelf supports between pairs of legs at selected sheets, usually around 3⁄8" thick). Sand and stain both
heights. Clamp each support to each leg with a locking faces and the edges of the panels and shelves with
pliers. Drill one 1⁄4" guide hole in the middle of each exterior stain before installing them.
joint (photo 2). Use a carbide-tipped twist bit. TIP: Attach the back panel, top panel, and side panels
Lubricate the drilling point with a drop of cutting oil in the correct locations with 3⁄4" pop rivets (photo 5).
before drilling. Add more oil if the metal begins to smoke. Clamp each panel in place and drill guide holes for
1 2 3
Cut the aluminum angle for the Drill guide holes for bolts . Clamp the Assemble the frame . Secure each
frame parts (top) and then deburr the part for each joint together with locking frame joint with a 1⁄4 x 3⁄4" bolt and lock
cut ends on a bench grinder (lower). pliers and then drill for one 1⁄4" bolt per nut. If you’re able to locate aluminum
Don’t overdo it on the grinder or use joint. fasteners use them, otherwise use
a file. stainless steel or hot-dipped fasteners.
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4 5 6
Assemble the frame by tightening the Attach the panels using aluminum Hang the door . Attach the hinges to
locknuts onto the bolts. Hand-tighten pop rivets driven through guide holes in the metal frame first and then attach
all nuts first and then check the frame the frame and the panels. the other plates to the back of the door
to make sure it is square. Tighten the on the edge with no shelf edge molding.
nuts with a cordless impact driver or a
ratcheting socket set.
7
the rivets through the frames and the panels. Install
the pop rivets from the exterior side of the cabinet.
Install the back panel first because it helps to square
up the cabinet.
HANG THE DOOR & INSTALL HARDWARE
The locker door is sized to fit in between the metal
frame members, and it closes against the slightly
recessed shelf edges. It is made from 3⁄8"-thick siding
and framed with 1 × 2 trim. Install three butt hinges to
the left leg with bolts and lock nuts. You will probably
need to enlarge the screw holes in the hinge plates
to accept the 1⁄4"-diameter bolts. After installing all
three butt hinges, attach the edge of the door to the
free hinge plates (photo 6). Test the door. If it works Make the panels and shelves . Cut the shelves and door
to size from exterior plywood and attach wood shelf edge
properly, attach the locking hasp. Use exterior-rated
molding to select edges as instructed. Cut the side, back, and
wood glue and 1" brass brads to attach 1⁄4"-thick × 3⁄4"- top panels from cedar plywood (siding). Stain the parts before
wide wood shelf edge to the front edges of the shelves installing them in the frame.
(photo 7).
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Timberframe Sandbox
B uilding this sandbox requires a good deal more
effort than if you simply nailed four boards
together and dumped a pile of sand in the middle.
Materials ▸
The timber construction is both charming and solid. 14 4 × 4" × 8 ft. Sand
A storage box at one end gives kids a convenient place cedar boards Wood sealer/
to keep their toys. The opposite end has built-in seats, 1 1 × 8" × 12 ft. protectant
allowing children to sit above the sand as they play. cedar board Heavy-duty plastic
The gravel bed and plastic sheathing provide a 2 1 × 6" × 8 ft. sheeting
nice base for the sandbox, allowing water to drain cedar boards 2" galvanized screws
while keeping weeds from sprouting in the sand. The 2 2 × 2" × 6 ft. 6" barn nails
gravel and liner also keep sand from migrating out cedar boards Pavers
of the box. The structure is set into the ground for Coarse gravel Hinges
stability and to keep the top of the pavers at ground
level so you can easily mow around them. When your
children outgrow the sandbox, turn it into a garden bed.
If you have small children, a backyard just isn’t complete without a sandbox. This version is nicely sized, sturdy, and designed
for ease of cleaning.
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Timberframe Sandbox
I
H
G
J F
D
A
B
E
C
A
Sandbox
sides
Sand Plastic
sheathing
Paver
Sand
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Sandbox sides 31⁄2 x 31⁄2 x 921⁄2" 8 Cedar F Lid boards 3
⁄4 x 71⁄2 x 431⁄2" 3 Cedar
B Sandbox ends 3 ⁄2 x 3 ⁄2 x 44 ⁄2"
1 1 1
8 Cedar G Lid cleats 1 ⁄2 x 1 ⁄2 x 18"
1 1
3 Cedar
C Storage box walls 3 ⁄2 x 3 ⁄2 x 41"
1 1
4 Cedar H Bench boards 3
⁄4 x 5 ⁄2 x 18"
1
2 Cedar
D Floor cleats 1 ⁄2 x 1 ⁄2 x 18"
1 1
2 Cedar I Corner bench boards 3⁄4 x 51⁄2 x 7" 2 Cedar
E Floorboards 3
⁄4 x 51⁄2 x 43" 3 Cedar J Bench cleats 11⁄2 x 11⁄2 x 10" 4 Cedar
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■ Timberframe Sandbox
PREPARE THE SITE Replace the storage box timber in the trench. Its top
Outline a 48 × 96" area using stakes and strings. Use edge must be 3⁄4" lower than the top edge of the first
a shovel to remove all of the grass inside the area. tier of the sandbox wall. Add or remove dirt until
Dig a flat trench that’s 2" deep × 4" wide around the the storage box timber is at the proper height. Drill
perimeter of the area, just inside the stakes and string 3
⁄16"-diameter pilot holes through the sandbox sides
(photo 1). into the ends of the storage box timber, then drive
6" barn nails through the pilot holes.
LAY THE FIRST ROW OF TIMBERS Pour 2" of coarse gravel into the sandbox
Cut the side, end, and storage box wall timbers using section. Compact the gravel with a hand tamper
a reciprocating saw or a power miter saw. Coat the or simply by stomping on it for a while. Cover
timbers with a wood sealer and let them dry completely. the gravel bed section with heavy-duty plastic
Place the first tier of sides and ends in the trench so sheet (photo 2). Pierce the plastic with an awl or
the corners on successive rows will overlap one another. screwdriver at 12" intervals for drainage.
Place a level across a corner, then add or remove soil
to level it. Level the other three corners the same way. BUILD THE SANDBOX FRAME
Drill two 3⁄16" pilot holes through the timber sides, then Set the second tier of timbers in place over the first tier
drive 6" barn nails through the pilot holes. and over the plastic, staggering the joints with the joint
Measuring from the inside of one end, mark for pattern in the first tier. Starting at the ends of the timbers,
the inside edge of the storage box at 18" on both sides. drill 3⁄16"-diameter pilot holes every 24", then drive 6"
Align the storage box wall with the marks, making galvanized barn nails through the pilot holes. Repeat for
sure the corners are square, and then score the soil on the remaining tiers of timbers, staggering the joints.
either side of it. Remove the timber and dig a 3" deep Stack the remaining storage box timbers over the
trench at the score marks. first one. Drill 3⁄16"-diameter pilot holes through the
1 2 3
Remove the grass in the sandbox Prepare the base . Lay the first row Build the rest of the sandbox frame,
location with a flat-end spade, and then of timbers, including the wall for the staggering the corner joints. Drill holes
dig a trench for the first row of timbers. storage box. Fill the sandbox area with a and drive barn nails through the holes.
2" layer of gravel, and cover with plastic
sheet or weed blocker.
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4 5 6
Attach the bench lid using heavy- Install 2 x 2 cleats 3⁄4" from the top of Place the pavers into the sand base.
duty hinges. Install a child-safe lid the sandbox to support the seats in the Use a rubber mallet to set them in place.
support to prevent the lid from falling corners. Attach the corner bench boards
shut. using galvanized screws.
sandbox sides into the ends of the storage box timbers, edges of the bench cleats with the marks and fasten
and then drive 6" barn nails into the pilot holes them using 2" deck screws.
(photo 3). Cut the excess plastic from around the Cut the corner bench boards to length with a 45°
outside of the sandbox timbers using a utility knife. angle at each end. Place it in the corner and attach it
to the cleats using 2" screws (photo 5). Cut the bench
BUILD THE STORAGE BOX FLOOR & LID boards to length with a 45° angle at each end. Butt one
Cut the floor cleats and position one against each against the corner bench board, and then attach it to the
side wall along the bottom of the storage box. cleats. Repeat this step to install the second corner bench.
Attach them using 2" galvanized screws. Cut the
floorboards and place them over the cleats with 1⁄2" FILL SANDBOX & INSTALL BORDER
gaps between boards to allow for drainage. Fasten Fill the sandbox with play sand to within 4 to 6" of the
the floorboards to the cleats using 2" screws. top. Mark an area the width of your pavers around the
Cut the lid boards and lay them out side-by- perimeter of the sandbox. Remove the grass and soil in
side, with the ends flush. Cut the lid cleats and the paver area to the depth of your pavers, plus another
place across the lid, one at each end and one in the 2", using a spade. Spread a 2" layer of sand into the paver
middle, making sure the end of each cleat is flush trench. Smooth the sand level using a flat board. Place
with the back edge of the lid. Drill pilot holes and the pavers on top of the sand base, beginning at a corner
attach the cleats using 2" galvanized screws. Attach of the sandbox (photo 6). Use a level or a straightedge
the lid to the sandbox frame using heavy-duty child- to make sure the pavers are even and flush with the
safe friction hinges (photo 4). surrounding soil. If necessary, add or remove sand to level
the pavers. Set the pavers in the sand by tapping them
BUILD CORNER BENCHES with a rubber mallet. Fill the gaps between the pavers
Cut the bench cleats. Mark 3⁄4" down from the top with sand. Wet the sand lightly to help it settle. Add new
edge of the sandbox at two corners. Align the top sand as necessary until the gaps are filled.
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Yard & Garden
Projects
O utdoor carpentry projects are not limited to patio
tables and garden benches. The projects in this
chapter share a common theme: their main purpose is to
improve the appearance of your yard.
Yards and gardens do not take care of themselves.
So several projects in this chapter are designed to make
yard and garden maintenance easier: a clever potting
bench with work surfaces at two levels (because potted
plants are not one-size-fits-all), a cold frame and more.
There are designs and instructions for several
planters and containers: a triple-threat trellis planter
for potting, climbing, and hanging; a planter based
on a design from the Gardens at Versailles. And for
pure decorative fun, we’ve included a wishing well/
pump house with recirculating water, and a Japanese-
inspired luminary.
In this chapter:
• Compost Bin
• Freestanding Arbor
• High-low Potting Bench
• Trellis Planter
• Raised Bed with Removable Trellis
• Versailles Planter
• Jumbo Cold Frame
• Pagoda Lantern
• Firewood Shelter
• Shelter with Swing
• Patio Pergola
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Compost Bin
C omposting yard debris is an increasingly popular
practice that makes good environmental sense.
Composting is the process of converting organic
For more infromation on composting, contact your
local libray or agricultural extension office.
waste into rich fertilizer for the soil, usually in a
compost bin. A well-designed compost bin has a
few key features. It’s big enough to contain the
organic material as it decomposes. It allows cross-
flow of air to speed the process. And the bin area is
easy to reach whether you’re adding waste, turning Materials ▸
the compost, or removing the composted material.
This compost bin has all these features, plus one 4 4 × 4" × 4 ft. cedar 11⁄2", 3" galvanized
additional benefit not shared by most compost bins: posts deck screws
it’s very attractive. 5 2 × 2" × 8 ft. cedar Hook-and-eye
Grass clippings, leaves, weeds, and vegetable boards latch mechanism
waste are some of the most commonly composted 8 1 × 6" × 8 ft. cedar 3 × 3" brass butt
materials. Just about any formerly living organic fence boards hinges (one pair)
material can be composted, but do not add any of the
following items to your compost bin:
• animal material or waste
• dairy products
• papers with colored inks
• baked goods Convert organic waste into garden
• branches or other pieces of wood fertilizer inside the confines of this
easy-to-make cedar compost bin.
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Compost Bin
D
D
B
C E
A
C
C
B
D
D C
E
E
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Side rails 11⁄2 × 11⁄2 × 401⁄2" 4 Cedar
B End rails 11⁄2 × 11⁄2 × 331⁄2" 4 Cedar
C Cleats 1 ⁄2 × 1 ⁄2 × 15"
1 1
8 Cedar
D Slats 3
⁄4 × 5 ⁄2 × 27"
1
22 Cedar
E Posts 3 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 30"
1 1
4 Cedar
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■ Compost Bin
BUILD THE PANELS of the slats aligned. Check with a tape measure to
The four fence-type panels that make up the sides of make sure the bottoms of all the slats are 4" below the
this compost bin are cedar slats that attach to panel bottom of the panel frame (photo 3).
frames. The panel frames for the front and back of the
bin are longer than the frames for the sides. Cut the ATTACH THE PANELS & POSTS
side rails, end rails, and cleats to length. Group pairs The four slatted panels are joined with corner posts
of matching rails with a pair of cleats. Assemble each to make the bin. Three of the panels are attached
group into a frame—the cleats should be between the permanently to the posts, while one of the end panels
rails, flush with the ends. Drill 1⁄8"-diameter pilot holes is installed with hinges and a latch so it can swing
into the rails. Counterbore the holes ¼" deep using a open like a gate. You can use plain 4 × 4 cedar posts
counterbore bit. Fasten all four panel frames together for the corner posts. For a more decorative look,
by driving 3" deck screws through the rails and into buy prefabricated fence posts or deck rail posts with
each end of each cleat (photo 1). carving or contours at the top.
Cut all of the slats to length. Lay the frames on a flat Cut the posts to length. If you’re using plain posts,
surface and place a slat at each end of each frame. Keep you may want to do some decorative contouring at
the edges of these outer slats flush with the outside one end or attach post caps. Stand a post upright on a
edges of the frame and let the bottoms of the slats flat work surface. Set one of the longer slatted panels
overhang the bottom frame rail by 4". Drill pilot holes in next to the post, resting on the bottoms of the slats.
the slats. Counterbore the holes slightly. Fasten the outer Hold or clamp the panel to the post, with the back of
slats to the frames with 1½" deck screws (photo 2). the panel frame flush with the inside face of the post.
When you have fastened the outer slats to all Fasten the panel to the post by driving 3" deck screws
of the frames, add slats between each pair of outer through the frame cleats and into the posts. Space
slats to fill out the panels. Insert a 1½" spacing block screws at roughly 8" intervals.
between the slats to set the correct gap. This will Stand another post on end, and fasten the other
allow air to flow into the bin. Be sure to keep the ends end of the panel frame to it, making sure the posts
1 2
Fasten the cleats between the rails to construct the Attach a slat at each end of the panel frame so the outer
panel frames. edges of the slats are flush with the outer edges of the frame.
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are aligned. Fasten one of the shorter panels to the
adjoining face of one of the posts. The back faces of 3
the frames should meet at the inside corner of the
post (photo 4). Fasten another post at the free end of
the shorter panel. Fasten the other longer panel to the
posts so it is opposite the first longer panel, forming a
U-shaped structure.
ATTACH THE GATE Spacing
block
The unattached shorter panel is attached at the open
end of the bin with hinges to create a swinging gate for
loading and unloading material. Exterior wood stain or
a clear wood sealer with UV protectant will keep the
cedar from turning gray. If you are planning to apply a
finish, it’s easier to apply it before you hang the gate.
Make sure all hardware is rated for exterior use.
Set the last panel between the posts at the open
end of the bin. Move the sides of the bin slightly, if
needed, so there is about ¼" of clearance between each
end of the panel and the posts. Remove this panel gate
and attach a pair of 3" butt hinges to a cleat, making
sure the barrels of the hinges extend past the face of the
outer slats. Set the panel into the opening, and mark
the location of the hinge plates onto the post. Open the
hinge so it is flat, and attach it to the post (photo 5).
Attach a hook-and-eye latch to the unhinged end of the Continue to attach slats . The inner slats should be 1½"
panel to hold the gate closed. apart, with the ends 4" below the bottom of the frame.
4 5
Stand the posts and panels upright, and fasten the panels to Attach exterior-rated hinges to the end panel frame and
the posts by driving screws through the cleats. then fasten them to the post. Add a latch on the other side of
the hinged panel.
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Freestanding Arbor
T his freestanding arbor combines the beauty and
durability of natural cedar with an Asian-inspired
design. Set it up on your patio or deck or in a quiet
Sturdy posts made from 2 × 4 cedar serve as the
base of the arbor, forming a framework for a 1 × 2
trellis system that scales the sides and top. The curved
corner of your backyard. It adds just the right finishing cutouts that give the arbor its Asian appeal are made
touch to turn your outdoor living space into a showplace with a jigsaw, then smoothed out with a drill and drum
geared for relaxation and quiet contemplation. sander for a more finished appearance.
The arbor has a long history as a focal point
in gardens and other outdoor areas throughout the
world. And if privacy and shade are concerns, you can Materials ▸
enhance the sheltering quality by adding climbing
vines that weave their way in and out of the trellis. 7 1 × 2" × 8 ft. cedar #10 × 21⁄2" wood screws
Or, simply set a few potted plants around the base to boards 8 3⁄8"-dia. × 21⁄2" lag
help the arbor blend in with the outdoor environment. 9 2 × 4" × 8 ft. cedar screws
Another way to integrate plant life into your arbor is to boards 4 6" lag screws
hang decorative potted plants from the top beams. 3 2 × 6" × 8 ft. cedar Deck screws
This arbor is freestanding, so it can be easily boards (21⁄2", 3")
moved to a new site whenever you desire. Or, you can Wood glue (exterior) Finishing materials
anchor it permanently to a deck or to the ground and Wood sealer or stain
equip it with a built-in seat.
Create a shady retreat on a sunny
patio or deck with this striking cedar
arbor. It can also support a wealth of
climbing plants if you so choose.
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Freestanding Arbor
D
D
4"
I
H C
G
1 ⁄4"-dia
3 G
radius
H
H
F
A
C B
H E
B
B
G
1" squares
A
B
E
A
3 ⁄ 2"
1
3 1⁄ 2"
F
PART I DETAIL A
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Leg fronts 1 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 72"
1 1
4 Cedar F Side spreaders 1 ⁄2 × 5 ⁄2 × 21"
1 1
2 Cedar
B Leg sides 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 72" 4 Cedar G Trellis strips ⁄8 × 1 ⁄2 × 48"
7 1
9 Cedar
C Cross beams 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 36" 2 Cedar H Cross strips 7
⁄ 8 × 1 1⁄ 2 × * 15 Cedar
D Top beams 11⁄2 × 51⁄2 × 72" 2 Cedar I Braces 1 ⁄2 × 5 ⁄2 × 15"
1 1
4 Cedar
E Side rails 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 21" 2 Cedar *Cut to fit
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■ Freestanding Arbor
MAKE THE LEGS of cardboard. Cut out the semicircle, and use the strip
Each of the four arbor legs is made from two 6-foot-long as a template for marking the arcs (photo 3). Cut out
pieces of 2 × 4 cedar fastened at right angles with 3" the arcs with a jigsaw. Sand the cuts smooth with a
deck screws. Cut the leg fronts and leg sides to length. drill and drum sander.
Position the leg sides at right angles to the leg Cut two side spreaders to length. The side
fronts, with top and bottom edges flush. Apply spreaders fit just above the side rails on each side.
moisture-resistant glue to the joint. Attach the leg Mark a curved cutting line on the bottom of each
fronts to the leg sides by driving evenly spaced spreader. To mark the cutting lines, draw starting
screws through the faces of the fronts and into the points 31⁄2" in from each end of a spreader. Make a
edges of the sides (photo 1). Use a jigsaw to cut a reference line 2" up from the bottom of the spreader
31⁄2"-long × 2"-wide notch at the top outside corner board. Tack a casing nail on the reference line,
of each leg front (photo 2). These notches cradle centered between the ends of the spreader. With
the crossbeams when the arbor is assembled. the spreader clamped to the work surface, also tack
nails into the work surface next to the starting lines
MAKE THE CROSSBEAMS, RAILS & on the spreader. Slip a thin strip of metal or plastic
SPREADERS between the casing nails so the strip bows out to
Cut the crossbeams to length and then cut a small arc create a smooth arc. Trace the arc onto the spreader,
at both ends of each part. Start by using a compass to then cut along the line with a jigsaw. Smooth with a
draw a 31⁄2"-diameter semicircle at the edge of a strip drum sander. Use the first spreader as a template for
1 2
Create four legs by fastening leg sides to leg fronts at right Cut a 2 x 4-size notch in the top of each of the four leg pairs
angles. to hold the crossbeams.
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3 4
Lay out profiles on the ends of the crossbeams. A piece of Lag-screw the crossbeams to the legs, and fasten the
cardboard acts as a template when you trace the outline for spreaders and rails with deck screws to assemble the side
the arc. frames.
marking and cutting the second spreader. Cut the side the leg faces. Keeping the legs parallel, attach the pieces
rails to length. They are fitted between pairs of legs on with glue and drive 3" deck screws through the outside
each side of the arbor, near the bottom, to keep the faces of the legs and into the side rails and spreaders.
arbor square.
ATTACH THE SIDE TRELLIS PIECES
ASSEMBLE THE SIDE FRAMES Each side trellis is made from vertical strips of cedar
Each side frame consists of a front and back leg 1 × 2 that are fastened to the side frames. Horizontal
joined together by a side rail, a side spreader, and a cross strips will be added later to create a decorative
crossbeam. Lay two leg assemblies parallel on a work cross-hatching effect. Cut three vertical trellis strips
surface, with the notched board in each leg facing to length for each side frame. Space them so they
up. Space the legs so the inside faces of the notched are 23⁄8" apart, with the ends flush with the top of the
boards are 21" apart. Set a crossbeam into the crossbeam (photo 5).
notches, overhanging each leg by 6". Also set a side Drill pilot holes to attach the trellis strips to the
spreader and a side rail between the legs for spacing. crossbeam and spreader. Countersink the holes and
Drill 3⁄8"-diameter pilot holes in the crossbeam. drive 21⁄2" deck screws. Repeat the procedure for the
Counterbore the holes to 1⁄4" depth using a other side frame.
counterbore bit. Attach the crossbeam to each leg
with glue. Drive two 3⁄8"-diameter × 21⁄2" lag screws CUT & SHAPE TOP BEAMS
through the crossbeam and into the legs (photo 4). Cut two top beams to length. Draw 11⁄2"-deep arcs at
Position the side spreader between the legs so the the top edges of the top beams, starting at the ends of
top is 291⁄2" up from the bottoms of the legs. Position each of the boards. Cut the arcs into the top beams
the side rail 18" up from the leg bottoms. Drill 1⁄8" with a jigsaw. Sand smooth—use a drum sander, if you
countersunk pilot holes into the spreader and rail through have one.
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ASSEMBLE TOP & SIDES (photo 7). Cut and attach three trellis strips between
Because the side frames are fairly heavy and bulky, the top beams.
you will need to brace them in an upright position
to fasten the top beams between them. A simple ADD TRELLIS CROSS STRIPS
way to do this is to use a pair of 1 × 4 braces to Cut the cross strips to 7" and 10" lengths. Use wood
connect the tops and bottoms of the side frames screws to attach them at 3" intervals in a staggered
(photo 6). Clamp the ends of the braces to the side pattern on the side trellis pieces. You can adjust the
frames so the side frames are 4 feet apart, and use a sizes and placement of the cross strips but, for best
level to make sure the side frames are plumb. appearance, retain some symmetry of placement. Fasten
Mark a centerpoint for a lag bolt 123⁄4" from cross strips to the top trellis in the same manner. Make
each end of each top beam. Drill a 1⁄4"-diameter sure the cross strips that fit across the top trellis are
counterbored pilot hole through the top edge at arranged in similar fashion to the side strips (photo 8).
the centerpoint. Set the top beams on top of the
crossbraces of the side frames. Mark the pilot hole APPLY FINISHING TOUCHES
locations onto the crossbeams. Remove the top beams To protect the arbor, coat the cedar wood with clear
and drill pilot holes into the crossbeams. Secure the wood sealer. After the finish dries, the arbor is ready to
top beams to the crossbeams with 6" lag screws. be placed onto your deck or patio or in a quiet corner of
Cut four braces to length, and transfer the your yard. Because of its sturdy construction, the arbor
brace cutout pattern from the diagram on page can simply be set onto a hard, flat surface. If you plan to
129 to each board. Cut the patterns with a jigsaw. install a permanent seat in the arbor, you should anchor it
Attach the braces at the joints where the leg fronts to the ground. For decks, try to position the arbor so you
meet the top beams, using 21⁄2" deck screws. To can screw the legs to the rim of the deck or toenail the
make sure the arbor assembly stays in position legs into the deck boards. You can buy fabricated metal
while you complete the project, attach 1 × 2 scraps post stakes, available at most building centers, to use
between the front legs and between the back legs when anchoring the arbor to the ground.
5 6
Attach trellis strips to the crossbrace and spreader with Brace the side frames in an upright, level position with long
deck screws. pieces of 1 x 4 while you attach the top beams.
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7 8
Lock the legs in a square position after assembling the Attach the trellis cross strips to spice up the design and
arbor by tacking strips of wood between the front legs and assist climbing plants.
between the back legs.
Where to Put Your Arbor ▸ Add a Seat ▸
There are no firm rules about arbor placement. It can Create an arbor seat by resting two 2 × 10 cedar
be positioned to provide a focal point for a porch, boards on the rails in each side frame. Overhang
patio, or deck. Placed against a wall or at the end of a the rails by 6" or so, and drive a few 3" deck screws
plain surface, arbors improve the general look of the through the boards and into the rails to secure the
area. With some thick climbing vines and vegetation seat.
added to the arbor, you can also disguise a utility
area, such as a trash collection space.
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High-low Potting Bench
W orking the soil is part of the fun of gardening, but
crouching down all day can be exhausting. Many
gardening tasks are easier if you can work at a standard
bench. The frame is made with pressure-treated pine
lumber and the work surfaces are composite deck boards.
The composite material provides a smooth surface that
workbench height instead of on the ground. That’s where will not splinter and is easy to clean.
a potting bench comes in handy. A potting bench provides
a comfortable and efficient place to work on gardening
jobs that don’t have to happen on the ground.
What makes this potting bench different from most Materials ▸
other potting benches is that the work surfaces are at
appropriate heights for gardening tasks. The work surface 1 1 × 2" × 8 ft. PT 4 5⁄4" × 8 ft. deck
is 30" high, making it easier to reach down into pots. The pine board boards
low work surface is just over a foot high, so you won’t have 2 1 × 4" × 8 ft. PT Exterior-rated screws
to lift heavy objects such as large pots or bags of soil. In pine boards (11⁄4", 2")
addition to the high-low work surfaces, this bench also 4 2 × 4" × 8 ft. PT Cup hooks
features a shelf and hook rail to keep small supplies and pine boards
tools within reach, yet still off the main work area. 1 11⁄4 × 51⁄2" × 6 ft. PT
A potting bench gets wet and it gets dirty, so rot- and pine board
moisture-resistant materials were chosen to build this
Not all pots are the same height. With
two different working heights, this bench
is comfortable to use whether you’re
planting seeds in starter trays or planting
a 5-gallon planter with tomatoes.
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Author ISBN # Author's review
Outdoor Carpentry 0781760607 (if needed)
Document name OK Correx
Potting Bench.eps
Ar tist Date Initials Date
02/25/2009
Accurate Ar t, Inc.
Check if revision CE's review
High-low Potting Bench BxW 2/C 4/C OK Correx
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
Initials Date
44w x 36d
N
N
A
M
N
N L
L
M M
A
A
A
K
O
O
J
F G
B F
E J
F
B
P P
I F
H
I I B
F
C
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Long legs 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 623⁄4" 2 PT pine I Bottom rails 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 60" 2 PT pine
B Mid length legs 1 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 29"
1 1
2 PT pine J Back rails 3
⁄4 × 31⁄2 × 60" 2 PT pine
C Short leg 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 12" 1 PT pine K Front rail 3
⁄4 × 11⁄2 × 30" 1 PT pine
D Back strut* 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 541⁄4" 1 PT pine L Hook rail 3
⁄4 × 3 ⁄2 × 30"
1
1 PT pine
E Front strut 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 201⁄2" 1 PT pine M Shelf supports 3
⁄4 × 3 ⁄2 × 7"
1
2 PT pine
F Outside cross supports 3
⁄4 × 3 ⁄2 × 22 "
1
4 PT pine N Shelf/shelf back 1 ⁄4 × 5 ⁄2 × 31 ⁄2"
1 1 1
2 PT pine
G Middle top 1 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 19 ⁄4"
1 1 3
1 PT pine O High worktops 1 ⁄4 × 5 ⁄2 × 33 ⁄2"
1 1 1
4 Deckboards
cross support P Low worktops 1 ⁄4 × 5 ⁄2 × 62 ⁄2"
1 1 1
4 Deckboards
H Middle bottom 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 16" 1 PT pine
cross support
*Not Shown
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■ High-low Potting Bench
CUT THE FRAME PARTS 2" deck screws. Check that all of the parts intersect
Cut all of the frame and shelf parts to length. Draw a at 90-degree angles. Attach the front rail and one
31⁄2" radius on the front bottom corner of each shelf bottom rail to the left front mid-length leg, front strut,
support. Cut along the radius lines with a jigsaw or and short leg. Connect the back assembly and front
bandsaw (photo 1). Sand the profiles smooth. assembly by attaching them to the cross supports
Apply a solid color exterior deck and siding stain to all (photo 2).
sides of the frame and shelf parts. Staining these parts
isn’t mandatory, but it’s an opportunity to customize ATTACH THE WORKTOP PLANKS
your workbench and the stain will extend the life of Cut the deck boards that will be used to create the
the parts. work surfaces to length. We used composite deck
boards because they require little maintenance and are
ASSEMBLE THE FRAME easy to clean. (See page 74 for more information on
Attach two back rails and one bottom rail to the long working with composites). Place the front deck board
leg, back strut, and back right mid-length leg with for the lower work surface against the backside of the
Cut the shelf supports . Use a
1 bandsaw or a jigsaw to make the 31⁄2"
radius roundovers on the ends of the
shelf supports. Sand smooth.
Assemble the bench frame . Clamp
2 the cross supports to the front and back
assemblies. Attach the cross supports
with 2" deck screws.
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front left leg and front strut. Mark the point where the
front leg and strut intersect the deck board. Using these 3
marks, draw the 33⁄4" deep notch outlines and cut out
the notches with a jigsaw (photo 3).
Place the top and bottom deck boards on the cross
supports, leaving a 1⁄4" space between the boards. Drill
two pilot holes that are centered over the cross supports
in each deck board. Attach the deck boards with 2"
deck screws (photo 4). If you are using composite
deck boards, use specially designed decking screws.
ATTACH THE SHELF & RACK
Attach the shelf back, shelf hook rail, and shelf supports to
the long leg and back strut with 21⁄2" deck screws. Attach
the shelf to the shelf supports with 2" deck screws. Fasten
the hooks to the shelf hook rail (photo 5).
Cut notches . Lay out notches in the front board for the low
work surface where the board must fit around the front leg
and front strut. Use a jigsaw to cut the notches.
4 5
Install the worktop slats . Use composite screws to attach Install the shelf and hook rail . Attach the shelf to the shelf
the composite deck boards that create the upper and lower supports. Drill pilot holes for each screw to prevent splitting
worktops. the shelf supports. Once the hook rail is installed twist in the
cup hooks.
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Trellis Planter
Y ou don’t need a large yard—or any yard at all for that
matter—to have a garden. Planting in containers
makes it possible to cultivate a garden just about
to rip the 1 × 6 siding boards. An even easier option is to
replace the 23⁄4"-wide siding boards with 31⁄2"-wide 1 × 4s.
This modification makes the planter 41⁄2" taller, so you
anywhere. A container garden can be as simple as a small also have to make the front posts 241⁄2" long instead of 20"
flowering annual planted in a single 4" pot or as elaborate long and add 41⁄2" to the length of the front posts trim.
as a variety of shrubs, flowering plants, and ornamental
grasses planted in a large stationary planter.
This planter project combines a couple of different
container options to create a larger garden in a relatively Materials ▸
small space. The base is an 18 × 30" planter box that
is large enough to hold several small plants, a couple of 3 1 × 2" × 8 ft. cedar 1 3⁄4 × 4" × 4 ft.
medium-sized plants, or one large plant. It features a boards exterior plywood
trellis back that can be covered by climbing plants. 3 1 × 6" × 8 ft. cedar Exterior-rated screws
In addition to the planter and trellis, this project boards (2", 3")
features two plant hangers that extend out from the back 1 2 × 4" × 10 ft. 2 3⁄8 × 21⁄2" eyebolts
posts. Adding a couple of hanging plant baskets further cedar board 4 3⁄8" flat washers
extends the garden display without increasing the space 2 4 × 4" × 8 ft. cedar 2 3⁄8" locknuts
taken up by the planter. boards
This project is easiest to build with a table saw, miter 1 2 × 2" × 6 ft. cedar
saw, jigsaw, and drill/driver. If you don’t have access to a board
table saw, use a circular saw or jigsaw and straightedge
This efficient planter combines a box for
container gardening with a climbing trellis
and a pair of profiled arms for hanging
potted plants.
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Outdoor Carpentry 0781760607 (if needed)
Document name OK Correx
Trellis Planter
Artist Date Initials Date
02/25/2009
Accurate Art, Inc.
Check if revision CE's review
BxW 2/C 4/C OK Correx
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
Initials Date
44w x 36d
Trellis Planter
J K
K
L
J
I
1 1⁄ 2" radius
A 12" A 2" radius
10 1⁄ 2"
I Hanger Arm Detail
9" L
I
6"
I 6"
I
F E
B
B
C
E
D
D
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
H Bottom panel* 3
⁄4 × 221⁄4 × 30" 1 Ext. Plywood
A Back posts 31⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 72" 2 Cedar
I Climbing rails 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄2 × 30"
1
5 Cedar
B Front posts 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 20" 2 Cedar
J Hanger backs 1 ⁄2 × 1 ⁄2 × 12"
1 1
2 Cedar
C Front siding 3
⁄4 × 23⁄4 × 30" 6 Cedar
K Hanger arms 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 18" 2 Cedar
D Front post trim 3
⁄4 × 11⁄2 × 18" 2 Cedar
L Hanger braces 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 18" 4 Cedar
E Side siding 3
⁄4 × 23⁄4 × 211⁄2" 12 Cedar
F Back panel 3
⁄4 × 18 × 30" 1 Ext. Plywood
G Bottom supports* 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄2 × 22 ⁄4"
1 1
2 Cedar
*Not shown
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■ Trellis Planter
CUT THE BASE PARTS guide. Cut six 30"-long pieces and twelve 211⁄2"-long
Cutting the front posts (2 × 4) and back posts (4 × pieces to make the siding strips.
4) to length is easy. Cutting the hanger parts is a bit Also use a circular saw or table saw to cut the
trickier, primarily because the plant hangers splay bottom and back panels to length and width. Cut
out from the corners of the posts at a 45° angle. The 11⁄2"-long × 31⁄2"-wide notches out of the front corners
top, outside post corners must be beveled to create of the bottom panel. Cut the front post trim, bottom
flat mounting surface for the hangers. Mark the bevel supports, and back climbing rails to length from
cut lines on the outside and front faces of the posts 1 × 2 boards.
(photo 1). Tilt the shoe of a jigsaw to 45° and bevel-
cut along the layout lines (photo 2). Use a handsaw ASSEMBLE THE BASE PLANTER
to make a stop cut that meets the bottom of the bevel Attach the front siding strips to the front posts with
cut in each back post, forming a shoulder (photo 3). 2" exterior screws. Align the ends of the siding pieces
Rip-cut some 1 × 6 stock to 23⁄4" wide (photo 4) using flush with the sides of the front legs. Leave a 1⁄4"
a table saw or a circular saw and a straightedge cutting space between the siding boards. Drive one screw
1 2
Mark the post bevel cuts . The lines at the top of each back Cut the bevels . Tilt the foot of a jigsaw at a 45° angle so it
post should be drawn 1" out from the corner and should run will ride smoothly on the post face and follow the bevel cutting
down the post for 12" long. line. Make a bevel cut along the layout line.
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through each end of each siding board and into the Attach the siding with 2" screws (photo 6). Flip the
front legs. Drill a countersunk pilot hole for each project over and repeat the process to attach siding
screw. Attach the front post trim pieces to the front to the other side.
posts with three or four 2" brad nails or finish nails. Attach the bottom supports to the front and
Align the front edge of the trim pieces flush with the back legs. The bottom of the front end of the bottom
front face of the front siding. Attach the back panel support should be flush with the bottom of the siding.
to the back posts with six 2" screws. Drive three The bottom of the back end of the bottom support
screws into each post. should be positioned 2" up from the bottom of the
Attach the back lattice rails to the back posts. back post. Drive one screw through the front end of
Drive one screw through each end of each climbing the support and into the front leg and two screws
rail (photo 5). Refer to the construction drawing into the back legs. Attach the bottom to the bottom
on page 139 for lattice spacing. Place the front and supports with four 2" screws—two into each support.
back assemblies on their sides and install siding on
the side that’s facing up. The siding boards should be BUILD THE PLANT HANGERS
positioned against the front post trim board and flush Cut the hanger backs, hanger arms, and hanger braces
with the back edge of the back post, spaced 1⁄4" apart. to length. Draw the hanger arm profile onto the side of
Make the shoulder cut . Use a
3 handsaw to cut into the corner of the
post to meet the bevel cut, creating a
shoulder for the beveled corner.
Rip 1 × 6 stock for siding . Using a
4 table saw or a circular saw and cutting
guide, rip enough material for the sides
and the front to 23⁄4".
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each hanger arm, and use a compass to draw the radius a locknut through each hanger arm. Attach the hanger
profiles. Profile details are shown on the construction back to the back end of the hanger arm with two 3"
drawings (page 139). Use a jigsaw to cut along the profile screws. Position a 2 × 2 hanger back and a 2 × 4 hanger
layout lines on the hanger arms. Both ends of the hanger arm against the beveled corner of each back post. Drive
brace are mitered at 45°, but the back or bottom end is two 3" screws through the hanger back and into the back
a compound miter cut, meaning that it has both a miter posts. Attach the hanger braces to the hanger back and
and a bevel component. Cut the top end 45˚ miters on all hanger arm with 2" screws (photo 8). Make sure the
four braces. Then, make compound cuts at the bottom hanger arms remain perpendicular to the posts when you
ends of the hanger braces (photo 7). Make the cuts so attach the braces.
the beveled end faces the post when it is attached.
Drill a 3⁄8"-diameter hole through the top of each FILL PLANTER
hanger arm. Locate the hole 3" in from the end of the The planter itself is lined with heavy (at least 4-mil
hanger arm. Fasten one eyebolt, two flat washers, and thick) black plastic sheeting. Cut the sheeting pieces
Add the latticework . Attach the
5 horizontal climbing rails to the back
posts with countersunk 2" screws. Use
one screw at each lattice connection to
the posts.
Install siding . Attach the siding to the
6 front and back posts with countersunk
2" screws. After completing one side, flip
the project and complete the other side.
Then, install siding strips on the front.
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that cover the sides, front, and bottom several
inches oversized so they overlap in the corners. Cut 7
the back sheeting the same size as the back panel.
Attach the plastic to the inside faces of the planter
with staples (photo 9). Start with the bottom
sheet, overlap the sides on the bottom, and then
overlap the front over the sides and bottom. Finally
overlap the back over the sides, leaving a small
gap between the bottom of the back sheet and the
bottom sheet to allow water to drain out. Fill the
planter with potting soil and add your plants. TIP:
Adding a few inches of gravel to the bottom of the
planting compartment allows for better drainage.
Cut the hanger brace angles . After cutting a flat 45° miter
in the top end of the hanger brace, make a compound bevel/
miter cut in the bottom end so it will fit flat against the bevel
cut in the post.
8 9
Install the hanger braces . Clamp the hanger braces to the Line the container . Attach 4-mil black plastic liner with 3⁄8"
hanger arms and hanger backs. Attach the hanger braces with stainless steel staples. Overlap the plastic in the corners and
2" screws driven into the hanger back and into the hanger leave a small gap along the back bottom edge for drainage.
arm. Drive two countersunk screws at each connection.
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Raised Bed with Removable Trellis
I t’s hard to beat PVC plumbing pipe for adding a trellis
to a simple raised bed. It’s inexpensive and rot-proof
and goes together like pieces of a toy construction set.
Materials ▸
It’s also durable, lightweight, and can stand up to just 2 1½" × 10' PVC Metal inside corners
about anything the elements throw at it. pipe Deck screws 1¼", 2½"
This all-purpose trellis is made almost entirely 2 1½" PVC 90° Tape measure
with PVC parts and is designed to be custom-fit to elbows Cordless drill and bits
your raised bed. For a bed with 2× lumber sides, you 2 1½" PVC T-fittings Hacksaw or miter saw
can secure the trellis uprights to the outside of the Heavy jute or hemp Sandpaper
bed with metal pipe straps. If the sides of the bed are twine Scissors or utility knife
built with timbers, the trellis simply drops into holes Pipe straps for 1½" Eye and ear protection
drilled into the tops of the timbers. Of course, you can PVC (4 screw type) Work gloves
get much more creative with the configuration if you
want to bump up your yield. Add another, identical
trellis to the opposite end of a longer raised bed. Or
add three—at either end and in the middle—of a
really long bed. Making the most of vertical space with
a trellis is a great way to grow a lot more vegetables in
the same footprint. This can be key if you’re looking to
put up a lot of vegetables for over the winter.
The trellis as shown is made with 1½-inch PVC
pipe and fittings. The parts are friction fit only, so they
are not glued together and can easily be disassembled
for off-season storage. PVC pipe and fittings are
manufactured for a very tight fit; if you push the pipe
all the way into the fittings, the joints won’t come
apart unless you want them to. Separate the joints by
twisting the pipe or fitting while pulling straight out.
Due to the tight fit, it doesn’t help to try to wiggle
it loose.
PVC pipe and fittings come in one color: stark
white. You may want to paint your trellis to blend
in with your garden setting, but this isn’t necessary.
Once it becomes covered with lush plant growth, the
appearance of the pipe will be much less noticeable.
Exposure to sunlight somewhat dulls PVC over time,
but this doesn’t significantly affect its strength.
A raised bed box made from 2 × 6 lumber is used as the base
for a sturdy built-in trellis made of PVC tubing. It’s the ideal
support for heavy climbing plants like beans or cucumbers.
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Raised Bed with Removable Trellis
E
C C
D
E
A
D
A
B
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Side 1½ × 5½ × 72" 2 2 x 6 Cedar
B End 1½ × 5½ × 36" 2 2 x 6 Cedar
C Upper vertical 1½ × 60" 2 PVC pipe
D Lower vertical 1½ × 12" 2 PVC pipe
E Crosspiece 1½ × 34" 2 PVC pipe
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■ Raised Bed with Removable Trellis
Start by assembling the raised-bed
1 box, reinforcing the joints with metal
inside corners. Add a center divider to
keep the sides from spreading apart if
you decide to make this project longer
than 6'. Even if it is shorter, the divider
is still a good precaution to help prevent
warping.
Cut 12"-long pieces of 1½" PVC
2 tubing. Attach them to the outsides of
the planter box, near the middle. Use
emery paper or sandpaper to remove
the burrs and smooth the cut ends of
pipe. Draw a perpendicular line where
the pipe will go, using a square. Strap
the pieces to the outsides with two pipe
straps each. Fasten one strap with two
screws, but leave the other strap loose
until you put the upper vertical PVC on
and can check it for plumb.
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Add a T-fitting to the top end of each
3 pipe. Measure between the hubs of the
T-fittings to the insides of the sockets.
Cut a piece of 1½" PVC pipe to this
length and sand the cut edges smooth;
this is the bottom crosspiece. Remove
both Ts, fit the piece into the middle
hubs of the Ts so the ends of the pipe
bottom out in the fittings. Then replace
the Ts.
Add the uprights and attach the top
4 crosspiece with elbows. Ensure the
pipes are plumb, then secure the bottom
straps. Move the planter into your yard
or garden, line it with a thick layer of
old newspaper or landscape fabric, and
fill it with planting medium. Tie jute or
hemp twine between the crosspieces so
that climbing plants have something to
grab onto. When winter comes, you can
disassemble the PVC and store it away
until spring.
TIP: Raised Box Trellis Options just seal the copper so that it doesn’t contaminate your
The basic design of this bed-and-trellis combination lends plants. The box itself can easily be fabricated from found
itself to customization. If, for instance, you want a sturdier lumber, or lumber reclaimed from construction sites (just
trellis to support much heavier plants or stand up to high ask the site supervisor or foreman before you go dumpster
winds, you can swap the PVC pipes and fittings for metal diving). The only requirement is that the wood you reuse
plumbing pipes and fittings. Better yet, if you want to add not be treated in any way. Otherwise, free is the best price
a rustic appeal to your unit, you can use copper pipes— for a self-sufficient project!
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Versailles Planter
P ossibly the most famous gardens in the world,
the gardens at King Louis XIV’s Versailles palace
are the birthplace of this famous rolling planter style.
Not a gardener? Try building a slatted top for the
planter to create a rolling storage bin that, conveniently,
is roughly the same height as a patio table. Or even
Reportedly created by landscape architect Andre Le make a few to serve multiple purposes around your yard
Notre, the Versailles Planter was originally designed while maintaining a consistent design theme.
to accommodate the many orange trees that were
moved in and out of the orange groves on the grounds.
The planter seen here differs in several ways from
the classic Versailles model, but anyone who has
a historical sense of gardening will recognize the
archetypal form immediately.
The classic Versailles planter is constructed from
oak slats and is bound together with cast iron straps.
Cast iron ball or acorn finials atop the corner posts are
also present on virtually every version of the planter.
Most of the planters that existed (and still exist) on
the Versailles grounds today are considerably larger
than the one seen here, with sides as wide as 5 feet,
and as tall as 7 feet. These larger models typically have
hinged corners so the sides can be removed easily to
plant the tree or shrub, as well as to provide care and
maintenance. The X-shaped infill on the design seen
here is present in some of the Versailles models, but
many others consist of unadorned vertical slats.
At 24 × 24", this historical planter can be home to
small- to medium-sized ornamental or specimen trees.
The trees can be planted directly into the planter or in
containers that are set inside the planter. If you wish
to move the plants to follow sunlight or for seasonal
protection, install the casters as they are shown.
Otherwise, the casters can be left out.
Materials ▸
1 4 × 4" × 10 ft. cedar 4 2 × 2" × 8 ft.
board treated pine
1 4 × 4" × 4 ft. cedar boards
board 1 1 × 6" × 8 ft.
1 2 × 4" × 8 ft. cedar cedar board
board board 4 3" casters
1 2 × 6" × 8 ft. cedar Deck screws
board
1 3⁄4 × 4" × 8 ft. Based on a classic design originated by the landscape
exterior plywood architect for Louis XIV’s gardens at Versailles, this rolling
planter can hold small fruit trees (its original purpose) or be put
to use in any number of creative ways in your garden or yard.
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Author ISBN # Author's review
Outdoor Carpentry 0781760607 (if needed)
Document name OK Correx
Varsailles Planter.eps
Artist Date Initials Date
03/24/2009
Accurate Art, Inc.
Check if revision CE's review
BxW 2/C 4/C OK Correx
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
Versailles Planter 44w x 36d Initials Date
A
B B
A A
F
F
D D
F
A
E
B
C C
K
D
A
A
B J
B K
D
J D J
A
K K
K K C
C C
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Corner posts 31⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 30" 4 Cedar H Bottom braces* 11⁄2 × 11⁄2 × 141⁄4" 4 PT pine
B Top rails 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 17" 4 Cedar I Blocking* 11⁄2 × 11⁄2 × 7" 3 PT pine
C Bottom rails 11⁄2 × 51⁄2 × 17" 4 Cedar J X Legs—full 3
⁄4 × 2 × 24" 4 Cedar
D Side panels 3
⁄4 × 17 × 18 ⁄2" 1
4 Ext. Plywood K X Legs—half 3
⁄4 × 2 × 11" 8 Cedar
E Bottom panel 3
⁄4 × 17 ×17" 1 Ext. Plywood
F Corner nailers 1 ⁄2 × 1 ⁄2 × 23"
1 1
8 PT pine
G Bottom braces* 1 ⁄2 × 1 ⁄2 × 17 ⁄8"
1 1 1
2 PT pine
*Not shown (see step 4, page 151)
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■ Versailles Planter
MAKE THE BOX Cut the side panels from 3⁄4" exterior plywood.
Building the box for the Versailles Planter constitutes Create four side assemblies by attaching the panels
most of the work for this project. Start by cutting in the rabbets on pairs of mating top and bottom rails.
four 30"-long 4 × 4 cedar posts. Install a 1⁄4" piloted Use adhesive and 11⁄4" deck screws driven through the
chamfering bit in your router and chamfer all four sides plywood and into the rails.
of each post top to create 45° bevels (photo 1). You Attach the side assemblies to the 2 × 2 nailers on
may find that this is easier if you gang all four posts the inside faces of the posts. The top rails should all
together edge-to-edge and then spin them align 1" down from the post tops. Use adhesive and
each 90° after each cut. 3" deck screws driven through the nailers and into the
Cut the 2 × 2 pressure-treated corner nailers rails. Also drive a few 11⁄4" deck screws through the
to length and attach them to the inside faces of the panels and into the nailers, making sure to countersink
posts so the nailers meet at the inside corners. The the screwheads slightly so they can be concealed with
bottoms of the nailers should be 4" above the post wood putty (photo 3).
bottoms and the tops should be 3" down from the Flip the box so it is top-down on your work surface
post tops. Use exterior adhesive and 3" deck screws and then install the 2 × 2 bottom braces and blocking.
to attach the nailers. It will work best if you first create the brace grid by
Prepare a 2 × 4 for the top rails and a 2 × 6 for end-screwing through the four outer braces and into
the bottom rails by cutting a rabbet into each work the inner braces and blocking. Then, attach the four
piece (photo 2). Located on the bottom inside edge outer braces to the bottom rails with adhesive and 3"
of the 2 × 4 and the top inside edge of the 2 × 6, the deck screws driven every 4" or so (photo 4). Now, cut
rabbets should be 3⁄4" wide × 3⁄4" deep. You can cut the bottom panel to size. Drill a 1" drain hole every 6"
them with a table saw or a router. After cutting the (resulting in nine drain holes). Cut 11⁄2" notches at the
rabbets, cut the rails to length. Lay out the profile on corners of the bottom panel using a jigsaw. Set the box
the bottom rails and cut with a jigsaw. Sand smooth. with the top up and attach the bottom panel to the
braces with adhesive and 11⁄4" deck screws.
1 2
Make the posts . After cutting them to length from 4 x 4 Cut panel rabbets . Make the 3⁄4 x 3⁄4" rabbet cuts in the rail
cedar, make a 1⁄4" chamfer cut around all the tops. Gang the stock using a table saw or router. The rabbets will accept the
posts together for profiling if you like. plywood side panels.
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ADD DECORATIVE TOUCHES
Rip-cut an 8-foot-long cedar 1 × 6 into two 2"- 3
wide strips using a tablesaw or circular saw and
straightedge guide. Cut the legs of the Xs to length.
Cut off the corners of the full-length legs on a miter
saw to create arrow shapes. Install the legs between
opposite corners of the side panel on the outside
faces using construction adhesive and a few 1"
brass brads. Cut the half-length X legs with a square
end and a pointed end and attach them to the side
panels, completing the X shapes (photo 5).
Turn the box back upside down and install
3" exterior-rated casters at the corners of the
bottom panel. Flip it onto the casters and attach
cedar post cap finials (acorn-shape or round) to
the tops of the posts if you wish. Or, leave the
tops unadorned. Apply two or three coats of
exterior trim paint to the outside of the planter
and to the inside at least 6" down from the top.
If you will be placing dirt directly into the planter,
line it with sheet plastic first. A better idea is to
plant your tree or shrub in a square pot and set
the pot into the planter. TIP: If you wish to use
the planter form as a patio table, attach some Attach the side assemblies . First, drive 3" deck screws
cedar 1× 4 slats to a pair of 17"-long 2 × 4 through the corner nailers and into the rails. Then, drive 11⁄4"
stretchers and set the top (called a duckboard) deck screws through the side panels and into the nailers.
onto the planter. Reinforce the joints with construction adhesive.
4 5
Attach the bottom braces . Assemble the braces into a Make the X shape . The distinctive X shape on the outer
square grid using adhesive and screws and then attach the surfaces of the side panels is made with 2"-wide strips of
whole assembly to the base rails by screwing through the four cedar that are fastened with adhesive and 1" brass brads.
outer braces that meet the rails.
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Jumbo Cold Frame
A cold frame of any size works on the same principle
as a greenhouse, capturing sunlight and heat
while protecting plants from cold winds and frost. But
the cold frame and work in a thick layer of mulch.
Because all sides of the canopy have clear glazing, you
don’t have to worry about orienting the cold frame
when your planting needs outgrow a basic backyard toward the sun; as virtually all of the interior space is
cold frame with a windowsash roof, it makes sense to equally exposed to light.
look to the greenhouse for more comprehensive design
inspiration. This jumbo version offers over 17 square
feet of planting area and combines the convenience of a
cold frame with the full sun exposure of a greenhouse. Materials ▸
Plus, there’s ample height under the cold frame’s
canopy for growing taller plants. 2 2 × 6" × 6 ft. Roofing screws with
The canopy pivots on hinges and can be propped boards EPDM washers
all the way up or partially opened to several different 2 2 × 3" × 6 ft. 2 3½" exterior-grade
positions for ventilating the interior to control boards butt hinges with
temperature. The hinges can be separated just like 1 1 × 2" × 3 ft. board screws
door hinges (in fact, they are door hinges), so you 1 1 × 1" × 4 ft. board 2 ¼ × 4" eyebolts
can remove the canopy for the off season, if desired. 1 2 × 4" × 3 ft. board 5
∕16 × 3½" stainless
Clear polycarbonate roofing panels make the canopy Deck screws 2", steel machine
lightweight yet durable, while admitting up to 90 2½", 3" bolts (2 bolts
percent of the sun’s UV rays (depending on the panels 5 ½" × 10 ft. thin with 8 washers
you choose). wall PVC pipes and 2 nuts)
The base of the cold frame is a simple rectangle 2 25 × 96" 2 Heavy-duty hook-
made with 2 × 6 lumber. You can pick it up and corrugated and-eye latches
set it over an existing bed of plantings, or give it a polycarbonate Outdoor
permanent home, perhaps including a foundation of roofing panels thermometer with
bricks or patio pavers to protect the wood from ground 30 × 24" clear acrylic remote sensor
moisture. For additional frost protection and richer panel (optional)
soil for your seedlings, dig down a foot or so inside
A cold frame can extend the growing
season in your garden to almost—or
truly—year round. Use an oversized
cold frame like the one in this project
and there may be no need to put up
vegetables in the fall, because you’ll
have all the fresh produce you can
handle. The hinged canopy is secured
with eye hooks when closed to trap heat,
but can be propped open for venting to
prevent heat buildup.
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Jumbo Cold Frame
G
G
B
Closure Strip
G
E
A
F
G
C
D
A
B
E
C
D
F
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Frame sides 11⁄2 × 21⁄2 × 94" 2 Cedar
B Frame ends 11⁄2 × 21⁄2 × 30" 2 Cedar
C Base sides 11⁄2 × 5¼ × 94" 2 Cedar
D Base ends 1 ⁄2 × 5¼ × 30"
1
2 Cedar
E Frame braces 1 ⁄2 × 2 ⁄2 × 8"
1 1
4 Cedar
F Prop sticks 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄2 × 30"
1
2 Cedar
G Filler strips 3
⁄4 × ⁄4 × 37"
3
2 Cedar
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■ Jumbo Cold Frame
BUILD THE BOXES
Making the boxes for this jumbo cold frame is the 2
easiest part of the project. The full box frame is simply
a rectangle formed from butt-jointed pieces of 2 × 6.
Cut these pieces to length and then drill pilot
holes and fasten the frame end pieces between the
frame side pieces with 3" deck screws. Use two screws
for each joint. Then, cut the canopy frame pieces to
length and join them in the same fashion (photo 1).
Stabilize the corners of the canopy frame with
2 × 4 braces cut to 45° angles at both ends. Install
the braces on-the-flat, so their top faces are flush
with the tops of the canopy frame. Drill pilot holes
and fasten through the braces and into the frame
with one 2½" screw at each end (photo 2). Then,
drive one more screw through the outside of the
frame and into each end of the brace. Check the
Install miter-cut 2x4 braces at each corner of the canopy
frame for square as you work. frame to help prevent it from racking.
MAKE THE CANOPY SUPPORT
The roof (called the canopy here) for this jumbo cold
frame is made of clear corrugated plastic roof panels.
3
The clear end caps are made of inexpensive acrylic.
These parts are attached to a support framework
fashioned from ½"-diameter PVC tubing. Build your
framework first and then custom-make the roof and
end panels to ensure a good fit all around.
Cut all the frame ribs to 37" long from ½" PVC
tubing (photo 3). You can cut these easily with
a jigsaw, miter saw, hacksaw, or a tubing cutter (a
specialty plumbing tool).
Cut the ribs for the canopy support framework from ½"
PVC tubing. Make sure you’re using flexible PVC and not rigid
1 Schedule 40 PVC.
4
Assemble the box frames with simple butt joints. The base Deck screws driven partway into the top edges of the base
frame and the canopy frame are rectangles of the same frame are used as receptors over which the ribs are fitted.
dimensions.
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Use the heads of 2" deck screws as receptors
that you can fit the open ends of the tubing ribs 5
onto. Drive the screws in 1" from the outside edges
of the base frame and 3/4" from the ends, angling the
screws at about a 35 to 45° angle toward the center
(photo 4). Leave about 3/4" of the screw exposed.
Drive two additional screws on opposite sides of the
base frame, 32¼" from each end.
Install the PVC ribs by sliding one end securely
onto the angled 2" screw, then bending the tubing until
the other end fits over the opposite screw (photo 5).
Take your time with this, and use a helper if you need.
Flex the PVC tubing to both ends fit over opposite screws.
The tension from the bent PVC should be sufficient to The tubing should snap back to create tension that holds it
hold the ribs in place during assembly of the canopy, in place.
but you can wrap a little duct tape around them to hold
them steady if they want to spring off of the screws.
CUT THE END PANELS
6
The roof of the canopy is formed from corrugated
plastic roof panels. These are relatively inexpensive
and lightweight, which makes the cold frame portable.
But they have enough structural integrity to stiffen up
the canopy so there is no need to add ties or spreaders
between the individual roof ribs.
When making the canopy, use your box frames
and ribs to mechanically transfer the shapes and
dimensions to the parts before you cut them. Start
with the end panels, which can be cut from one 24 Trace the profile of the end ribs onto a sheet of clear acrylic
× 30" sheet of clear acrylic (sold in the size at most to create a cutting line for the end panels.
building centers). To mark the sheet for cutting, hold
it against one end with the edge flat on the ground.
Trace the curving top edge of the end PVC tubing rib 7
onto the acrylic, using a marker (photo 6). Cut the
clear acrylic along this cutting line with a jigsaw fitted
with a plastic-cutting jigsaw blade or any fine-tooth
jigsaw blade. Do not install the end panels yet.
INSTALL THE CANOPY PANELS
The framework for the raised bed canopy is sized so a
pair of 25 × 96" roof panels (a standard size) will span
the framework with enough overlap at the top to create
a good seam.
Start installing them by attaching the bottom edge
of one of the panels to the outside edge of the base
frame, about an inch up from the bottom. Drill ¼"
holes along the bottom edge of the panel. These guide
holes for the screws need to be at least ½" down from
the edge of the 2 × 3 so it will not split.
Locate the holes so they are 2½" from each end.
Drill additional holes in the same line, approximately Secure the lower edge of one of the corrugated roofing
every 16". Attach one panel along the bottom edge by panels to the base frame. Use self-sealing roofing screws (they
driving a self-sealing roofing screw at each screw guide have an EPDM rubber gasket).
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hole you’ve drilled (photo 7). Note: To ensure that the
ribs on the corrugated panels overlap snugly at the seam, 8
install one panel first, all the way to the top, and then
install the second panel starting at the top and working
your way down the opposite side from the first panel.
Mark and drill ¼" rib guide holes for the next
course of screws into the roof panel, 4 to 6" up from
the bottom. Locate holes for the ribs so they are 15∕8"
and 33¼" from each end (four ribs total). Adjust the
PVC ribs until the predrilled holes in the roof panels
are centered on the ribs, then predrill each rib through
the outer wall with a 1∕8" bit. Fasten the panel to the
two intermediate ribs (photo 8).
At the ends, insert a plastic closure strip (sold Drive the next course of screws through guide holes in the
by the roof panel supplier) over the end ribs to fit panel and into pilot holes in the PVC ribs.
between the rib and the roof panel and close the voids.
Hold the closure strip securely in place and predrill it
and the rib wall (photo 9). Attach the panel at each
end and continue to secure it with screws, working
9
toward the top.
At the top, lap the second panel over the first so
the two panels fit together and make a clean seam.
They should overlap so at least two of the panel ridges
are covered with a double layer of roof panel. Position
the second panel and trim it for width if necessary
(it’s okay to overlap several ridges instead of cutting).
Fasten the second panel using the same screw pattern
you used on the first.
ATTACH THE END PANELS Cut closure strips to fit at each end and then drive the
Fit the arc-shaped end panels that you’ve already cut screws to secure the ends of the panels. Screws should be
into the openings at the ends of the canopy. Mark the driven only at troughs in the corrugated panels and should go
screw locations. Place the panel on a piece of plywood through panel, closure strip, and rib wall at once.
and predrill screw guide holes with a ¼"-diameter bit
to avoid cracking the clear acrylic, which isn’t as soft
or flexible as the roof panels. 10
Screw the panels in place with self-sealing
roofing screws, hand-tightening with a screwdriver to
avoid overdriving them and cracking the clear acrylic
(photo 10).
Attach the acrylic end panels to the canopy frame. Carefully
drill guide holes in the acrylic sheeting before driving screws.
Use a hand screwdriver to ensure that you do not overdrive
the screws and crack the acrylic.
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11 12
Attach the canopy frame to the base frame with exterior- Attaching a propping stick with multiple height settings lets
rated butt hinges. you vent the cold frame if it gets too hot inside or you want the
plants to benefit from a nice rainfall.
INSTALL THE CANOPY ATTACH PROP STICKS
Mount the completed canopy to the cold frame base Attach a prop stick to each end of the cold frame,
using a pair of exterior hinges (3½" galvanized butt securing each prop with a stainless steel bolt and nut.
hinges are shown here). The canopy frame should fit Insert three washers (or more if necessary) between
flush over the base on all sides (photo 11). Be sure to the prop stick and the 2 × 6 base so the prop stick
use exterior-rated screws. clears the acrylic end panel. Drill additional 5∕16" holes
Screw in two hook-and-eye latches in front so in the stick and the frame for the eyebolts, so that
you can secure the canopy to help keep critters out you can prop the canopy open at different heights
and also to hold the canopy closed tightly if the wind (photo 12).
should pick up. Now, prepare the ground and place the cold frame
in the desired location. Anchor the base to the ground
using 16" treated wood stakes or heavy-duty metal
angles driven into the ground and secured to the frame.
It’s called a cold frame, not a hot frame ▸
Cold frames often can work too well, capturing and As a general guideline, the
retaining so much heat that it becomes too hot for the interior temperature of a cold
plants, even during cool weather. Adding an outdoor frame should be no higher
thermometer with a remote sensor (wired or wireless) than 75°F for summer plants
lets you monitor the temperature inside the cold and 65°F or lower for spring
frame without having to lift the canopy. Make sure the and fall plants. But check the
thermometer is rated for subfreezing temperatures, since recommendations for your
it will be exposed to the elements. Secure the sensor specific plantings.
inside the frame as directed by the manufacturer.
Mount the readout unit to the outside of the cold frame
base. As an alternative, you can use a wireless system
to send a readout to a thermometer inside the house.
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Pagoda Lantern
E nhance your landscape with this decorative
pagoda lantern. It will act as an interesting
focal point within your garden by day and its glow
Candles illuminate this lantern. The candles are
placed on a tile base and can be placed within a glass
vase or hurricane lantern shade to prevent burning the
makes it even more inviting at night. It’s made from wood structure.
commonly available dimensional lumber—four
pieces of 1 × 6 and one piece of 2 × 2. You can stain
the wood to complement the surrounding landscape
or you might choose to stain it or paint it to look
like the Asian structures that inspired its design. Materials ▸
The stacked tiers of the pagoda are frames that
are attached to four corner legs. Connecting four 1 11⁄2 × 11⁄2" × 8 ft. 1 6-to 10"-dia. glass
crosspieces with half-lap joints makes each frame. white oak board hurricane shade
The top frame features similar construction to the 4 3⁄4 × 51⁄2" × 8 ft. 2" exterior-rated
sides and is capped with a square piece and a wood white oak boards screws
ball to create the peak. Any 2"-diameter wood ball 1 2"-dia. ball white 11⁄2" galvanized
(or even a copper ball) will work as the cap ball, but oak or other finish nails
it should ideally be made from exterior-rated wood. 1 12 × 12" ceramic
You can also use a manufactured post cap for the cap tile
plate and ball.
Big enough to make a statement but compact enough to fit just about anywhere, this oak lantern can house large outdoor
candles or even a low-voltage landscape light.
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Author ISBN # Author's review
Outdoor Carpentry 0781760607 (if needed)
Document name OK Correx
Pogadta.eps
Artist Date Initials Date
03/25/2009
Accurate Art, Inc.
Check if revision CE's review
Pagoda Lantern
BxW 2/C 4/C OK Correx
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
Initials Date
44w x 36d
G
F
D
D D D
E E A
C A
C
C
C
C C
C
C
B B
B
B
B B
B
B
A
H A
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Legs 11⁄2 × 11⁄2 × 21" 4 White Oak
HALF-LAP DETAIL
B Bottom crosspieces 3
⁄4 × 2 ⁄4 × 27"
1
8 White Oak
C Middle crosspieces 3
⁄4 × 21⁄4 × 24" 8 White Oak
D Crown crosspieces 3
⁄4 × 2 ⁄4 × 21"
1
4 White Oak
E Top rails 3
⁄4 × 1 × 15" 4 White Oak
F Crown plate 3
⁄4 × 5 1 ⁄ 2 × 5 1 ⁄ 2 " 1 White Oak
G Crown ball 2"-dia. ball 1 Wood or copper
H Bottom slats 3
⁄4 × 1 ⁄2 ×15"
1
3 White Oak
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■ Pagoda Lantern
MAKE THE CROSSPIECES & TOP RAIL The half-lap notches are 11⁄8" deep and equal to the
If you do some careful planning and marking, the thickness of the crosspieces (3⁄4 to 7⁄8"). To lay out the
crosspieces can be cut from three 8-foot-long 1 × 6 notches, mark the center of the middle and bottom
boards. First, cut the boards to length. Cut one 1 × 6 crosspieces and then make a mark 71⁄2" on each side
into four 24" pieces. Then cut two 27" boards and two of the centerline to designate the inside edge of the
21" boards from each of the other two 1 × 6s. Cut the notches. Mark the center of the top crosspieces and
1 × 6 pieces in half lengthwise, leaving you with the then make a mark 13⁄4" on each side of the centerline
twenty 21⁄4" wide crosspieces (photo 1). to designate the inside edge of the notches. Cut the
Use a miter saw to trim the bottom corners (13⁄4 notches in several crosspieces at the same time to save
× 13⁄4") off each end of the crosspieces (photo 2). time and ensure consistent notch widths.
You can also use a table saw and miter gauge to make You must flip half of the crosspieces for each size
these cuts. The crosspieces fit together with half- upside-down so that you end up with an equal number
lap joints in much the manner of toy building logs. of pieces with notch cuts on the top and on the
Rip-cut the stock . On a table saw
1 (if you have access to one), rip-cut
each piece of 1 × 6 stock for the
crosspieces into two equal strips that
are approximately 21⁄4" wide.
Trim the crosspiece corners . Set the
2 miter saw to make a 45° cut and make
each cut 13⁄4" from each end.
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bottom edge. You can use a table saw, router, or circular you used to cut the notches in the crosspieces to cut
saw to cut the half-lap notches. Use a miter gauge to two 1⁄4"-deep notches in the top edge of each top rail
guide the pieces on a table saw, making several passes piece (photo 4). Sand the faces smooth and ease the
to cut the full width. Use a straight-edge to guide a outside edges of all of the crosspieces.
circular saw or router (photo 3).
Mark the arc profile along the top edge of the four BUILD THE BASE
top crosspieces. Cut along the arc line with a jigsaw or Assemble the crosspiece frames. Apply exterior-rated
band saw. glue to the notches and clamp the crosspiece frames
Cut 15"-long top rail pieces to length from together. Drill countersunk pilot holes through the
1× 2 stock. Then, rip the four pieces down to 1" bottom of each joint and drive a 2" screw into each
wide. Cut 45° miters in each end of the top rails. joint (photo 5).
Mark the center of each top rail piece and then Cut the legs to length and then attach them to the
make a mark 13⁄4" on each side of the centerline to crosspiece frames. Cut four 3"-wide spacer blocks to
designate the inside edge of the notches that will position the bottom frame on the legs. Apply glue to
hold the top crosspieces. Use the same method the inside faces of the crosspiece-frame corners and
Cut half-lap notches . Clamp the
3 crosspieces together with the notch
cutout marks aligned. Use several
passes with a router and straight bit to
remove the waste material from the
notches, lowering the bit 1⁄4" for each
pass.
Notch the top rails . Clamp the top
4 rails together and cut two 1⁄4"-deep
notches that are the same width as
the rail stock. Use a router setup with
a straight bit and straightedge guide.
TIP: Position a piece of scrap the same
thickness as the workpieces on each
side so the router bit will enter the
workpieces cleanly with no tear-out.
Scrap
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clamp them to the legs. Drill one countersunk pilot pilot hole in the center of the base of the ball. Position
hole at each corner and secure with a 2" screw. the crown ball over the center of the cap plate and
Cut four 2"-wide spacer blocks to position each of attach it with a 2" screw (photo 7). Attach the cap plate
the next three frames over the previous frame. Secure to the top crosspiece frame with 11⁄2" galvanized finish
each frame to the legs with glues and 2" screws nails (photo 8). Drill a 1⁄16" pilot hole for each nail.
(photo 6). Glue and clamp the top rails to the legs
and attach them with 2" screws. Attach the bottom LIGHT YOUR LANTERN
slats to the bottom crosspiece frame with 2" screws. You can apply an exterior stain to add color to the
wood and help protect it from decay or you can let it
BUILD THE CROWN age naturally. Place a 12" square tile on the bottom
Apply glue to the crown crosspiece notches and clamp slats inside the base. Use one to three candles to
them together. Secure them by driving 2" screws illuminate the lantern. Place large candles inside a
through the bottom of the joint. Cut the crown plate glass vase or hurricane shade to protect the wood
to size and drill a 1⁄4"-diameter pilot hole through the parts from burning and protect the candle flame from
center of the crown plate and a 3⁄16"-diameter × 11⁄4" the wind.
Pin the crosspieces together . Drill
5 a 3⁄16"-dia. x 2"-deep pilot hole in the
bottom of each crosspiece joint and
secure the joints with 2" screws.
Join the crosspiece frames . Use 2"
6 spacer blocks to position each frame
over the previous frame. Attach the
frames to the legs with glue and 2"
screws.
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Make the crown . Attach the crown
7 plate to the crown ball with a 2" screw.
Make the crowning touch . Attach
8 the cap plate to the top crosspiece
frame with galvanized finish nails. Drill
a pilot hole for each nail to prevent
splitting the wood.
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Firewood Shelter
T his handsome firewood shelter combines rustic
ranch styling with ample sheltered storage that
keeps firewood off the ground and obscured from
you need it. Raising the firewood above the ground
also makes the woodpile a much less attractive nesting
area for rodents.
sight. Clad on the sides and roof with beveled cedar
lap siding, the shelter has the look and feel of a
permanent structure. But because it’s freestanding,
you can move it around as needed. It requires no time- Materials ▸
consuming foundation work. As long as it’s loaded up
with firewood it is very stable, even in high winds. 10 2 × 4" × 8 ft. 8 3⁄8 × 4" lag screws
But if it has high exposure to the elements and is cedar boards 11⁄2" spiral siding
frequently empty, secure it with a pair of wood stakes. 5 2 × 6" × 8 ft. nails
This firewood shelter is large enough to hold an cedar boards Deck screws
entire face cord of firewood. (A face cord, also called 10 5⁄8 × 8" × 8 ft. (21⁄2”, 3")
a rick, is 4 feet high, 8 feet wide, and one log-length cedar lap siding Finishing materials
deep— typically 16".) Since the storage area is 24 3⁄8 × 31⁄2" lag
sheltered and raised to avoid ground contact and allow screws
airflow, wood dries quickly and is ready to use when
Stacks of firewood will stay drier and
be less of an eyesore if you build this
rustic firewood shelter.
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Firewood Shelter
L
E
G
I A
D A
C
C
I
J
H F
K
G D
B D
A A B
C
C
M
B
D
K
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
A Front posts 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 59" 4 Cedar H Middle post 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 50" 1 Cedar
B Bottom rails 11⁄2 × 51⁄2 × 821⁄2" 3 Cedar I Middle supports 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 28" 2 Cedar
C Rear posts 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 50" 4 Cedar J Back siding 5
⁄8 × 8 × 881⁄2" 3 Cedar siding
D End rails 1 ⁄2 × 5 ⁄2 × 21"
1 1
4 Cedar K End siding 5
⁄8 × 8 × 24" 6 Cedar siding
E Back rail 1 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 88 ⁄2"
1 1 1
1 Cedar L Roof strips 5
⁄8 × 8 × 96" 5 Cedar siding
F Front rail 1 ⁄2 × 5 ⁄2 × 88 ⁄2"
1 1 1
1 Cedar M Prop 1 ⁄ 2 × 3 ⁄ 2 × 7 ⁄ 2"
1 1 1
2 Cedar
G Roof supports 1 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 33 ⁄4"
1 1 3
2 Cedar
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■ Firewood Shelter
BUILD THE FRAME posts upright and about 82" apart, set 2"-high spacers
Cut the front posts and rear posts to length. Butt next to each corner post to support the frame. Position
the edges of the front posts together in pairs to form the bottom rail frame between the corner posts, and
the corner posts. Drill 1⁄8"-diameter pilot holes at 8" attach the frame to the corner posts by driving two 21⁄2"
intervals. Join the post pairs with 21⁄2" deck screws, deck screws through the corner posts and into the outer
driven into countersunk pilot holes. Follow the same faces of the bottom rails. Drill counterbored pilot holes
procedure to join the rear posts in pairs. in the sides of the corner posts. Drive a pair of 3⁄8 × 4"
Cut the bottom rails and end rails. Assemble two lag screws, fitted with washers, through the sides of the
bottom rails and two end rails into a rectangular frame, corner posts and into the bottom rails. The lag screws
with the end rails covering the ends of the bottom must go through the post and the end rail, and into the
rails. Set the third bottom rail between the end rails, end of the bottom rail. Avoid hitting the lag screws that
centered between the other bottom rails. Mark the have already been driven through the end rails.
ends of the bottom rails on the outside faces of the end Complete the frame by installing end rails at
rails. Drill two 3⁄8"-diameter pilot holes for lag screws the tops of the corner posts. Drill countersunk
through the end rails at each bottom rail position—do pilot holes in the end rails. Drive 21⁄2" deck screws
not drill into the bottom rails. Drill a 3⁄4"-diameter through the end rails and into the posts. Make sure
counterbore for each pilot hole, deep enough to recess the tops of the end rails are flush with the tops of
the screw heads. Drill a smaller, 1⁄4"-diameter pilot hole the rear posts (photo 2).
through each pilot hole in the end rails, into the ends
of the bottom rails (photo 1). Drive a 3⁄8 × 31⁄2" lag MAKE THE ROOF FRAME
screw fitted with a washer at each pilot hole, using a Cut the back rail, front rail, roof supports, middle post,
socket wrench. and middle supports to length. The roof supports and
Draw reference lines across the inside faces of the middle supports are mitered at the ends. To make the
corner posts, 2" up from the bottom. With the corner miter cutting lines, mark a point 11⁄2" in from each end,
1 2 3
Drill pilot holes through 3⁄4"-dia. Attach the end rails between the Miter-cut the middle supports and
counterbores when preparing to drive front and rear corner posts. roof supports with a circular saw or with
the lag screws into the ends of the a power miter saw.
bottom rails.
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4 5 6
Attach the front rail by driving Attach the middle roof supports by Attach the roof strips with siding
screws through the outer roof supports, driving screws through the front and nails, starting at the back edge and
making sure the top of the rail is flush back rails. working your way forward.
with the tops of the supports.
along the edge of the board. Draw diagonal lines from extends past the bottom rail by 2". Attach it with 21⁄2"
each point to the opposing corner. Cut along the lines deck screws. Cut a pair of props to length. Attach
with a circular saw (photo 3) or power miter saw. them to the front two bottom rails, aligned with the
Drill countersunk pilot holes in the back rail. Use middle post. Make sure the tops of the props are
3" deck screws to fasten the back rail to the backs of flush with the tops of the bottom rails.
the rear corner posts, flush with their tops and sides.
Use the same procedure to fasten a roof support to ATTACH SIDING & ROOF
the outsides of the corner posts. Make sure the top of Cut pieces of 8"-wide beveled cedar lap siding to
each support is flush with the high point of each post length to make the siding strips and the roof strips.
end. The supports should overhang the posts equally Starting 2" up from the bottoms of the rear posts,
in the front and rear. fasten the back siding strips with two 11⁄2" siding nails
Drill countersunk pilot holes in the roof driven through each strip and into the posts, near the
supports and drive deck screws to attach the front top and bottom edge of the strip. Work your way up,
rail between the roof supports (photo 4). The top overlapping each piece of siding by 1⁄2", making sure
of the rail should be flush with the tops of the roof the thicker edges of the siding face down. Attach the
supports. Attach the middle supports between the end siding to the corner posts, with the seams aligned
front rail and back rail, 30" in from each rail end. with the seams in the back siding.
Drive 3" deck screws through the front and back rails Attach the roof strips to the roof supports, starting
into the ends of the middle supports (photo 5). Use at the back edge. Drive two nails into each roof
a pipe clamp to hold the supports in place as you support. Make sure the wide edge of the siding faces
attach them. down. Attach the rest of the roof strips, overlapping
Drill countersunk pilot holes in the middle post. the strip below by about 1⁄2" (photo 6), until you
Position the middle post so it fits against the outside reach the front edges of the roof supports. You can
of the rear bottom rail and the inside of the top back leave the cedar wood untreated or apply an exterior
rail. Make sure the middle post is perpendicular and wood stain to keep it from turning gray as it weathers.
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Sheltered Swing
I f enjoying an outdoor swing creates a picture in
your head of a pleasant, lazy sunny afternoon, you’re
only seeing half of the picture. The relaxing ritual of
Materials ▸
passing a long weekend afternoon on a garden swing 15 2 × 6" × 8 ft. 1 2 × 6" × 6 ft.
doesn’t need to be limited to bright and sunny days. cedar boards cedar board
With this covered unit, you can enjoy the swing in all 2 2 × 8" × 10 ft. 2 ½ × 8" stainless
seasons. You may even find that you look forward to cedar boards steel eye bolts
swingin’ in the rain. 5 2 × 6" × 8 ft. with washers
Sure, you could pick up a canopied glider from cedar boards and locknuts
the local home center, but be prepared to work on 3 2 × 4" × 10 ft. 4 Post-and-beam
it regularly. Store-bought gliders require regular cedar boards connectors
maintenance and, more importantly, they often look 30 ½ × 4" × 8 ft. 10 Rafter ties
and feel rather cheap. They are no competition for cedar lap siding 30 ft. rope or chain
a nicely designed, solidly constructed unit like the 14 2 × 4" × 6 ft. 4 ½ × 4" eye bolts
one described here. Not only will this swing last a cedar boards or chromed bow
good long time and provide many, many hours of 1 2 × 4" × 12 ft. eyes (for swing)
enjoyment, it also provides a handsome addition to cedar board
your landscape. It can, in fact, even be a centerpiece
in your yard or garden.
Set aside a full weekend for building this project.
Although the techniques we’ve used are meant to the pieces are fairly large, heavy, and unwieldy. And
simplify things for the home craftsman, the project is besides, it will be nice to have company on the swing
still fairly involved. Take your time and pay attention once it’s built! (Do not exceed two people on swing).
to precise measurements and keeping things plumb; a The only modification you may need to make to the
rickety or off-kilter end product will suck the fun out plan is to match the distance between the eyebolts in
of the experience of a leisurely swing. It will also be the stand to the dimension between your porch swing’s
a big boon to have a helper on the project—some of hanging chains or ropes.
Using rope to hang the swing is trickier
than using chain but the rope has a more
natural quality that supports the overall
design of the structure.
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Sheltered Swing
Scale for grid drawings: 1 square = 1"
H
RAFTER, F
F
BEAM PROFILE, B I
F
B
E
E
A
G
H
10˚ MITER
A
G
ROOF SUPPORT PROFILE, E
C 10˚ MITER
D D
C
D C
C
D
Cutting List: Shelter
Key Part Dimensions Pcs. Material
A Posts 4½ × 4½ × 96" 2 Cedar
B Beam 4½ × 4½ × 88" 1 Cedar
C Outrigger posts 4½ × 4½ × 48" 4 Cedar
D Outrigger rails 1½ × 3 × 60" 4 Cedar
E Roof supports 1½ × 7¼ × 52" 2 Cedar
F Rafters 1½ × 5¼ × 45" 10 Cedar
G Rafter supports 1½ × 3 × 101" 2 Cedar
H Ridgeboard 1½ × 7¼ × 104" 1 Cedar
I Shingles ½ × 35/8 × 96" 30 Cedar
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P
N
N
O M
O
P L
P
M J
M Q
Q
K
J
10" 11"
L
P 3"
21/4" 21/2"
11/2"
Cutting List: Swing
Key Part Dimensions Pcs. Material
J Seat slats 1½ × 2¾ × 51" 13 Cedar
K Seat frame front 1½ × 2¾ × 54" 1 Cedar
L Seat frame sides 1½ × 2¾ × 19½" 2 Cedar
M Back supports 1½ × 5¼ × 17¾" 3 Cedar
N Back rail (long) 1½ × 3½ × 54" 1 Cedar
O Back rail (short) 1½ × 3½ × 50" 1 Cedar
P Armrests 1½ × 3 × 21" 2 Cedar
Q Armrest supports 1½ × 2¾ × 12¾" 2 Cedar
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■ Sheltered Swing
SHELTERED SWING DESIGN
When designing a sheltered swing, you want to make 1
the swing roomy enough for two, but not so big that
it needs a shelter the size of a two-car garage. Begin
planning with the swing. For two adults, you’ll want
a seating area that’s at least 48" wide and 18 to 21”
deep. If your swing will have armrests (something we
highly recommend), make the seat at least 54" wide.
Allow at least 6" of clearance between the swing ends
and the shelter posts so the swing won't crash into the
posts if it veers to one side.
To protect against head banging, build the shelter Prepare the seat slats for gluing by trimming off the bullnose
so that the lowest horizontal elements (the roof edges of the 2 × 4 stock and spreading an even layer of exterior-
supports in this plan) are at least as high as a standard rated wood glue onto one face in each face-glued joint.
doorway (80"). If you incorporate a pitched roof into
the design, the height of the roof ridge will be 8 or 9
feet. To provide full protection of the swinging area,
the roof should span at least 72" from front to back
2
(this design has an 80" span).
MAKE THE SEAT PLATFORM
The success of the design hinges on the beefiness of
the 2 × 4 platform. The effect is mostly visual, but the
heaviness of the platform also contributes to a rocking
motion that’s more like a pendulum than a schoolyard
swing. Start by cutting thirteen 52"-long 2 × 4s for
the seat slats. Cut the front and the side frame pieces
slightly long. Using a table saw or jointer, trim ¼"
from each edge to reduce the width and remove the
bullnose profiles.
If you have access to a planer, face-glue the
seat slats in sections that fit into the tool. Be sure to
plan for the faux mortises when laying out lumber
for gluing (see the drawing on page 171). To join the
seat slats, apply exterior-rated glue to the mating Glue the seat platform in two sections that are narrow
faces (photo 1), reinforcing each joint by driving a enough to fit in a planer; then plane the sections (and the stock
for the armrests) to the final thickness.
deck screw (centered top to bottom, predrilled and
countersunk) every 12". Because of the screws, you
don’t need clamps.
After the glue dries, run both faces of each seat 3
section through the planer to reduce the pieces to the
final thickness (23/4") (photo 2). Also plane the 2 × 4
stock for the platform frame and the armrests. After
planing, glue and clamp the two seat platform sections
together, adding wood cauls above and below the
glue-up to align the parts. Trim the platform to 51"
wide. Attach the frame sides and the frame front using
glue and counterbored deck screws (photo 3). Attach the front and side seat frames with glue and
counterbored deck screws. Cut plugs to fit the counterbores
when the swing is completed.
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4 5 6
Cut the back supports from 2 × 6 Once you’ve built the swing, glue Laminate two sets of 8-ft. 2 × 6s to
stock using a jigsaw, and fit them into wood plugs into the counterbores and make the main posts. Use plenty of
the faux mortises created in the back trim them flush. Then sand and apply glue and clamps with clamp pads. The
seat slat. Once they fit snugly, glue finish if desired. (The swing shown was mortises should be about 1/8" longer
them and reinforce each joint with a finished with medium-dark, semi- than the width of the parts they'll house.
deck screw. opaque wood stain.)
BACKREST & ARMRESTS shelter are made from three layers of 2 × 6 stock.
When paired with a flat seat, a backrest should slant Laminated posts and beams are straighter and stronger
backward 5 to 10°. than dimensional 6 × 6 cedar.
You can create backrest supports that form a You’ll use the same basic joinery strategy as with
square connection with the platform but also have the swing, leaving out sections of the middle 2 × 6 to
an integral slope. We made the back supports from create through-mortises for the rails that join the posts
tight-grain 2 × 6 stock, which allowed us to cut an to the outrigger posts. The outriggers provide stability
angled part thick enough for good support. Use the and visual balance; without them, the structure would
grid drawing on page 170 as a guide, and cut three be top-heavy and unstable.
backrest supports (photo 4). The main posts are 8 feet long; the bottom 18"
Test the fit, then glue the 1½ × 1½" tenons at the is intended to be set in concrete below grade. The
bottom of each support into the mortises at the back outrigger posts are designed to be 4 feet long with 12"
of the seat platform. Drive a deck screw through a below grade so that you can cut two posts from an
predrilled and counterbored pilot hole in the back slat 8-foot board.
to reinforce each support. If you go by the nominal dimensions, sandwiching
Install the armrest supports; then cut and attach three 2 × 6s should yield a 6 × 6 post. But because
the armrests with glue and two countersunk screws the actual dimensions of a 2 × 6 are 1½ × 5¼", you’ll
driven into the tops of the armrest supports and the end up with a 4½ × 5¼" post. That’s not necessarily
outside faces of the outer backrest support. The a problem, but we trimmed 3/4" off the width of each
armrests should be parallel to the seat platform and member so the posts and beam were square. Not
flush with the back edges of the backrest supports. only do they look better this way, but squaring them
Finally, cut and install the backrest boards. Rest gave us the flexibility to orient the edges and faces as
the back lower edge of the bottom board on the we preferred. Lay out and glue the post assemblies,
armrests. Fill all counterbores with wood plugs, trim using plenty of clamps and clamping pads to protect
them flush (photo 5), and then sand the swing. the wood (photo 6). After the glue dries, remove
the clamps and run a belt sander across the glued
MAKE THE SHELTER PARTS edges. Cut the end profiles individually on the beam
This swing shelter is best built in the workshop and members. After gluing you’ll probably need to smooth
assembled on site. The major structural parts of the the profiles with a rasp or sander.
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Make a rafter template from plywood, using the the mating mortises in the outrigger posts (photo 9).
drawings on page 170 as a guide. Sand the edges Pin these joints temporarily with screws but do not glue
smooth. Trace the template onto each piece of stock them. Make both post assemblies.
(photo 7) and cut out the rafters one at a time with Lay each assembly on sawhorses and insert a
a jigsaw. Smooth the cut edges (photo 8). roof support into the notch at the top of each main
Also trace an end profile (see drawing, page 170) post. Use a framing square to make sure the post
onto the ends of the 2 × 8 roof supports. Cut one and support are perpendicular and then drill a pair
support with a jigsaw, smooth the cut, and then trace it of guide holes for ½ × 4½", hot-dipped galvanized
onto the other workpiece for cutting. Make 10° miter or stainless steel carriage bolts in the center of the
cuts at the ends of the rafter supports and ridgeboard. joint. Drill ½"-deep × 1"-diameter counterbores for a
washer and nut to accompany each fastener. Also drill
ASSEMBLE THE SHELTER a counterbored guide hole through the center of each
You can use many strategies to assemble a large railing/main post joint and install carriage bolts at all
(but not too large) outdoor structure that’s set in locations (photo 10). Secure the railing joints at the
concrete. You can lay out and dig postholes, set the outrigger posts by driving a pair of countersunk 3½"
posts, and then build the structure directly on the deck screws in both sides.
posts, adjusting as needed. Or do as we did and pre- Temporarily erect both post assemblies on site.
assemble the main structural elements so you can use (Because the main posts are 6" longer than the
the structure to establish the posthole layout. outrigger posts on the bottom, dig 6 × 6" holes spaced
Insert the upper and lower outrigger rails into the 75" on center for both main posts.)
mortises in one main post, and insert the free ends into
7 8 9
Make a plywood template of the Cut out the rafters using a jigsaw, Join the main posts to pairs of
rafter shape using the drawing as a then smooth the edges. The microplane outrigger posts by inserting the rails
guide. Trace the shape onto 45” long 2 × rotary shaper drill press attachment through the mortises. Center the main
6 workpieces to outline the 10 rafters. used here minimizes sawdust and cuts post on the rails. Pin joints temporarily
cedar quickly. with deck screws. (Do not glue them.)
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10 11
Center a roof support in the top notch in each main post and Temporarily set up the post-and-beam structure near the
fasten with a pair of carriage bolts. Washers and nuts should installation site, tacking the joints. Square the joint on one side
be installed in counterbored holes. and install post-and-beam connectors; then square and fasten
the other side.
12 13
Brace the posts temporarily with a 2 × 4 and carry the Set the post-and-beam structure into the holes and adjust
structure to the installation site. Choose the perfect spot and its position so it is level and plumb. Fill the holes with concrete,
then mark the post locations on the ground. crowning the tops to prevent puddling. Let the concrete cure.
With the assistance of helpers, position the beam the outriggers and 6"-diameter × 22"-deep holes for
on the main posts so it overhangs each post by 4½" the main posts. Carve a bell shape into the bottom of
at the top edge. Check that the edges are flush, then each hole and add 4" of gravel for drainage. Set the
tack the beam to each post. Make sure the overhang is structure into the postholes.
correct and the beam is perpendicular to the post on Place a level on the beam. If one end is lower, drive
one of the assemblies. Secure this joint with a metal a wood stake next to the outrigger rail on the low end,
post connector. Attach a connector to each side of raise that end to level, and screw or clamp the rail to
the post; then adjust and secure the other post/beam the stake. Also check each top outrigger rail with a level.
connection (photo 11). Clamp a 2 × 4 brace between If one end is lower, raise it by hand and backfill with
the posts, near the bottom. gravel. Fill the postholes with concrete (photo 13).
With a helper, carry the structure to the Work the concrete into each hole with a stick or
installation site and position it. Mark the locations of shovel to eliminate voids. Crown the concrete slightly
all six posts (photo 12), and move the structure out above grade to prevent water from puddling. Let the
of the way. Dig 6"-diameter × 16"-deep postholes for concrete set overnight.
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INSTALL THE ROOF eave, drive a 13/8" narrow-crown staple near the top
Lay the ridgeboard on sawhorses, and attach the of each strip and into each rafter. Overlap strips by
rafters with deck screws driven through pilot holes ½" as you work up the roof, concealing the staples
(photo 14). The end rafters should be 5" from the (photo 16).
ends of the ridgeboard (top edge). Space the three You may need to trim the last strip to width when
intermediate rafters evenly—the ends should align you reach the ridge.
where they meet at the ridgeboard. Carefully turn With a helper, lift the roof onto the roof supports
the rafter assembly upside down and attach the rafter (photo 17), center it, and then drive deck screws
supports so they fit into the bird’s-mouths on the through pilot holes in the rafter supports and into the
rafters (photo 15). roof supports.
Next, install the roof covering. We used 8-foot Install rafter hangers at the roof supports and each
strips of ½ × 4" beveled lap siding. Let the strips rafter. (You’ll need to trim each hanger slightly with
overhang the ends and eaves by ½". Starting at an metal snips first.)
Attach the rafters to the ridgeboard
14 with deck screws driven into pilot holes.
The bottoms of the rafters should be flush
with the bottom of the ridgeboard.
Fit the rafter supports into the bird's-
mouth cutouts, and attach the supports
to the rafters with deck screws. (A wood
15
pallet makes a perfect holder for the
inverted ridgeboard.)
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FINISHING UP Install ½ × 8" eyebolts in the beam, spacing them
The swing itself is finished with dark, semi-opaque the same distance apart as the rope guides (52" OC).
deck stain. A coat of lighter-tone deck stain is Secure each with a lock washer and nut.
brushed onto the shelter structure to bring out the Trying to hang the swing with ropes is more
richness of the cedar. The differences in tone are difficult than hanging it with chains. But rope has a
subtle, but appealing. softer, more natural feel that harmonizes with the rest
Use stainless steel eye bolts (½ × 3") or marine- of the project. Whether you use rope or chain, cant
style chromed bow eyes to hang the swing seat, along the swing backward slightly for ease of swinging and
with 30 feet of 3/8" braided marine rope. Attach the greater comfort.
eyebolts or bow eyes to the side frames of the seat As a final accent (and to simplify mowing), lay
bench. Position them so they’re aligned with the down landscape fabric and a layer of washed pond
backrest supports and about 2½" from the front of the gravel beneath the swing. The gravel prevents anyone
seat platform. from getting their feet muddy when they’re swinging.
16 17
Attach the shingles (in this case, narrow cedar lap siding With a helper, raise the roof structure onto the post-and-
strips) to the rafters with 13/8" narrow-crown staples. Start at beam structure, position it, and then secure it with deck
the bottom and overlap to conceal the staples. screws. Reinforce the connection with rafter ties at the rafter/
ridgeboard joints.
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Four-post Patio Pergola
C reating shade can be a challenge, especially
around hard surfaces like this concrete patio.
Awnings and sun sails and patio umbrellas can provide
Materials ▸
temporary solutions, but wind and the elements 18 2 × 2 × 8 ft. for 28 rafter ties
can diminish your enjoyment or even lead to minor purlins 77 3” exterior wood
disasters. If your outdoor living area is overly exposed 6 4 × 4 × 8 ft. for screws
to sun or wind, a pergola might be just the solution posts and corbels 5½" wood
you need. 4 2 × 8 × 12 for screws with
The four-post patio pergola shown here will joists washers
withstand just about anything nature can throw at it, 7 2 × 10 × 12 for 3½" wood
plus it adds warmth and architectural interest to a rafters screws with
fairly plain setting. 4 post base washers
The pergola is typically understood as a hardware
freestanding, four-post structure supporting an arbor- 4 post anchors
type canopy and often used to train vining plants. The
elements are simple: posts bases (metal or concrete), *As shown:
four wood posts, joists and corbels that support a Base= 7 ft. 7½" wide × 9 ft. 7½" deep
series of wood rafters running perpendicular the joists; Height: 8 ft. 9½"
and often it is capped with thinner purlins running
across the rafters to provide shade, trellising and visual
interest.
In traditional construction, the structural in this project, in part because it does not require the
members of the pergola are fastened together with application of any stain or wood protection, although
heavy lag screws, usually countersunk to minimize you certainly can apply it if you wish. Containers of
their visibility. However, as design standards have climbing plants such as clematis or ivy or Virginia
come to embrace a more industrial aesthetic in Creeper can be positioned at the bases of the posts,
recent years, many homeowners may appreciate the or you may choose to plant another vining plants—the
unique visual appeal of using exposed hardware. The homeowner where this structure was built intends to
hardware system we chose to use for this pergola is plant it with Cascade Hops.
from a relatively new line called “Outdoor Accents®,”
manufactured and sold by joist-hanger giant Simpson
Strong-Tie (See Resources, page 205). The powder-
coat black bases, caps, hangers and fasteners have a
very dramatic presence in the final design. But even
though they look like they are fastened with typical
heavy-duty lag screws, the beefy hex heads you see
are actually washers for the primary fasteners: exterior
wood screws that do not require pilot holes and can
be driven easily by any drill/driver or impact driver,
eliminating at least a couple of steps.
You can build your pergola from any exterior-rated
lumber. Cedar is a traditional and excellent choice,
although its availability is limited in some areas and
market prices can be relatively volatile. Treated pine
with a relatively contiguous cedar coloration was used
BEFORE
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This decorative hardware from Simpson Strong-Tie’s Outdoor Accents line is intended to be seen. It includes post bases with
standoff plates, rafter ties, exterior lumber screws and washers that create the appearance of heavy-duty hex heads.
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Four-post Patio Pergola
F
E
D
C
B
A
Cutting List
3" Key Part Dimension Pcs. Material
E A Posts 31⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 104" 4 Ext. Lumber
B Corbel-front/back 3 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 30"
1 1
4 Ext. Lumber
61/4" C Corbel-side 3 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 43 ⁄16"
1 1 7
4 Ext. Lumber
D Joist 11⁄2 × 71⁄4 × 120" 4 Ext. Lumber
21/4" E Rafter 1 ⁄2 × 9 ⁄4 × 120"
1 1
7 Ext. Lumber
D F Purlin 11⁄2 × 11⁄2 × 120" 11 Ext. Lumber
5"
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PREPARATIONS If you are building your pergola with post set in
Whether the project is a fence, a deck, an arbors or sand or concrete, you’lll need to dig down at least
any other large outdoor structure, you have two basic 24 inches to set the posts. In such cases be sure to
construction strategies to choose from. First, and more contact your local utility company to check and make
traditionally, you can take painstaking measurements sure there are no gas, water or electrics lines in the
and create a precise layout and then stick-build the building area. You can call 811 to arrange for a free
project piece by piece assembling as you go. Or you on-site visit and inspection.
can choose a more mechanical approach where the
project itself informs the exact location. This is done
by building your project in sections and then using the BUILD THE END-POST PAIRS
actual assembled sections a guidance for positioning. Select two 4 × 4 posts and one 2 × 10 joist and cut
The latter approach is what you will see here. Because them to length. Also cut the curved end profiles on
a pergola is basically two pairs of posts joined on top by the joist (photo 1). Break the cut edges with a sander
rafters and joists, we built the two end post pairs with (photo 2). Lay the posts parallel on a flat surface then
joists first and used the actual parts to define where position the joist across the tops of the posts. Check to
the post saddles would go. This is an especially good make sure everything is square and the overhangs are
idea when you are drilling holes in a concrete patio for correct and even, and then tack the joist to the posts
post anchors and thus have only a very limited about of with a couple of deck screws driven at each joint.
flexibility to make adjustments. Once the pairs of posts Then, move the assembly to the building area with the
are anchored it is relatively easy to connect them with post tops roughly where you want the post bottoms to
rafters, and you are virtually finished. be anchored in the post bases. Set post base hardware
Using this construction strategy does not mean next to the post tops (the tops will give you more
you should not have a good working plan. In fact, in accurate post spacing because of the proximity to the
many cases you may need such a plant to obtain a crosspiece). Mark the post base locations onto the
building permit. The plan we used was based on one concrete (photo 3) and then remove the assembly.
published by Simpson Strong-Tie, manufacturer of the Now that the posts no longer need to be flush on the
custom hardware we used. You can download a free surface for accurate marking, you can tack the second
copy of this and other outdoor building plans from the joist to the posts to stiffen the assembly (photo 4).
ri website (See Resources, page 205).
1 2
Use a cutoff piece of the correct width board for each part Smooth the cut end profile with a sander and break the
(the rafters are wider than the joists) and plot the end profile edges of the cuts into a slight bevel to help prevent splintering.
according to the diagram on page 180. Cut the profiles on the
cutoff pieces with a jig saw to make templates.
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INSTALL THE UNDERCARRIAGE they expand and make a compression joint much like
Position the post base hardware according to your wall anchors do. Because it is faster and cleaner we
marked lines on the surface and trace a drilling point chose this method. Drill the guide holes with a drill
for the anchors. You have multiple options for this: (preferably a corded hammer drill and a masonry bit)
one traditional way is to drill a hole in the concrete according to the diameter and depth recommended
for the threaded anchor and then set the anchor into (photo 5). Because the concrete slab drilled into her
exterior-rate two part epoxy that is injected into the is 4" thick we used 3-½", 5⁄8"-dia. anchors you don’t
guide hole with a syringe. Another option is to use an want to drill all the way through the slab. The guide
expandable masonry anchor: these threaded anchors hole was drilled to 3" deep so the top of the anchor
are flanged so when they are driven into the guide hole would extend ½" above the surface. Position the
3 4
Lay a post/joist assembly in position on the surface and set Tack the mating joist in position on the opposite sides of the
post base hardware flush against the post ends. Trace the post posts from the first joist, using deck screws.
base location onto the surface.
5 6
Drill guide holes for the post base anchors using a hammer After driving the anchor bolt into the guide hole, fasten
drill and masonry bit. down the pedestal bases for the first end post pair assembly.
Install the post standoff platforms.
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post base hardware onto each anchor and then add a and keep the post ends from having ground contact.
washer and nut and tighten the nut with a ratchet or Set your joist-and-post assembly into the post bases
impact driver (photo 6). (a helper is a good idea here) and check for plumb
With both anchors installed and aligned, set the with a level (photo 7). Secure the posts in the post
offset pedestal into each saddle to protect the nut bases with the recommended fasteners (photo 8).
Erect the end post assembly in the
7 post bases, checking with a level to
make sure the posts are plumb. Tack
the posts temporarily to the bases with
deck screws.
Drive the post base fasteners through
8 the base saddles and into the post.
Keep them slightly loose so you can still
adjust the assembly later.
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Install all fasteners for both posts a little loose so you (photo 10). Attach the other post-and-joist assembly,
can doublecheck the assembly for plumb and level measuring and testing for square to make sure it is
(photo 9) before fully installing the fasteners. Install positioned correctly relative to the first pair.
the post-to-joist hardware to secure the connections
Double check that the posts are
9 plumb and the joists are level.
Attach the finished hardware
10 for permanently connecting the joists
and posts.
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INSTALL THE RAFTERS AND PURLINS the outsides of the posts. Adjust the overhangs at
With both base/end assemblies secured, cut a rafter to both ends and check for square. Tack the rafter to the
length and Create the end profiles (photo 1 and 2). posts with deck screws (photo 11). Install a rater the
Lay the cut rafter across the joist tops, pressed against same way on the other side and tack it in place. Your
With both post assemblies secured,
11 position and tack and outer rafter at
each corner.
Finish driving the final fasteners
12 at all post bases and check again for
plumb and square.
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structure should now be square and in final position. To add visual interest and prevent racking,
Finish tightening any fasteners that you left a little 4 × 4 corbels are added to each post/rafter joint. The
loose (photo 12) and attach the remaining outer easiest way to get them exactly right is to cut some
rafter hardware (photo 13). 4 × 4 stock slightly overlong and clamp it into position.
Attach the finished rafter hardware
13 to the outer rafter at each corner.
Clamp 4 x 4 stock across the corbel
14 locations at each corner and transfer
cutting lines where they cross the rafter
tops.
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Trace the cutoff lines where they join the rafter tops
and inside post edge (photo 14) then remove the 15
stock and make the angled cuts (photo 15). Tack
the corbels in place (photo 16) and then secure
them with the finished hardware (photo 17). Cut
and install the rest of the rafters, using metal rafter
ties at each joint (photo 18). Finally, cut the 2 × 2
purlins to length and screw them down to the rafter
tops, working from above. Apply a UV-resistant finish
if desired.
Remove the corbel stuck and make the angled cuts with a
power miter saw.
16 17
Make the angled cuts where the corbels meet the posts and When all the corbels are cut, aligned and tacked into place,
then tack into position with deck screws. attach the final hardware.
18 19
Install the remaining rafters, using L-brackets to reinforce Attach the purlins to the rafter tops with exterior screws
the joints. driven from above.
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SPECIAL
SECTION:
Garden Bridges
W hether incorporated as a decorative feature, a
functional asset, or a combination, a garden
bridge is an alluring landscape addition. Depending
on the design, a small footbridge can be an easy
project; but no matter how much work you put into
it, a garden bridge usually has big visual impact.
That’s because these structures call to us like no
other element in a landscape. A bridge beckons to be
crossed. Our curiosity naturally wants to know what’s
on the other side, and the view from the bridge itself
is a tempting draw. But that subtle magic aside, you’ll
want a bridge that appeals to your sense of design so
that you get the most bang for your lumberyard buck.
Next to the design, the secret to any garden bridge
is placement. It might actually cross a barrier such as a
waterway, or it may just be placed to connect a patch of
grass with a pathway; regardless, the bridge embodies
a sense of mystery and an invitation to explore further.
The pages that follow describe several ways to use and
place garden bridges—including how to create the
appearance of an obstacle that needs bridging.
The style of the bridge you choose should relate to
the style of your home, the landscape aesthetic you’ve
chosen, and your own personal tastes. In designing the
bridge, size it appropriately for the space you have and
to keep it in proportion to other garden structures. But
no matter what style or design you choose, this much
is true—the garden bridge is one of the most unique
and appealing structures you can add to your yard.
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The appearance of a bridge should be based on
aesthetic preferences and the overall style of your house
and yard. Most bridge designs conform to one of these
styles: Oriental, Victorian, contemporary, or rustic.
C
• Oriental is the most traditional bridge style,
B mainly because the basic form of the decorative
garden bridge (called the “Edo” bridge) originated
A
in ancient Japan. Bridges styled in this manner
tend to be spare and elegant.
• Victorian bridges are fancy, with lavish fretwork
and gingerbread. Often painted, they succeed best
in country-style settings or where the home itself
is from the Victorian era.
• Contemporary bridges tend to extol a prominent
engineering feature. Metal and other non-
Garden bridges can be broken down into three structural wood materials are most likely to be used for
systems: (A) The undercarriage—beams, spreaders, and
sometimes deck-support ledges; (B) the decking; and (C) the
contemporary garden bridges. Informal in
posts and rails. appearance, they command attention by making a
design statement.
• Rustic bridges are made from timbers, rough-
DESIGNING THE BRIDGE sawn lumber and even tree trunks or limbs. They
The terrain and contours of your yard can dictate the are of heavier proportions and do not feature
characteristics and scale of your bridge. But rough sophisticated joinery or detailing.
standards exist: Typical garden bridge sizes range
from 28 to 60" wide and from 4 to 12 feet long. If Along with the design style, consider the type
you are unrestricted by terrain, consider building a of bridge that suits your situation: flat, arched, low-
garden bridge that’s 36 to 48" wide and 8 to 12 feet arched, or angled-platform (see next page “Garden
long. A structure of this size has adequate mass for a Bridge Types”).
strong presence but is still portable and inexpensive Flat bridges are created to span two points of
to construct. Peak deck elevation seldom exceeds comparable elevation separated by a narrow area of
18 to 24". lower elevation. These bridges are the easiest to design
Rustic garden bridges often are made
with found logs and timbers that are
native to the building site. Because these
materials are not structurally rated, try to
reserve them for decking and decorative
functions and use pressure-treated
lumber for the undercarriage.
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Garden Bridge Types ▸
Flat
Arched
Low Arched
Angled Platform
and build — they can be as simple as a pair of timbers are typically low and mostly decorative—you can omit
topped with deck boards or 2 × 4s. A basic flat bridge them altogether if you prefer. The shallow incline and
will offer rustic charm when its function trumps its form. short length of a low-arched bridge enable you to cut
Arched bridges have unique structural and each undercarriage support out of a single piece of
aesthetic properties. They can span greater distances dimensional lumber.
than other bridge types because of their ability to Angled-platform bridges can provide the lift of an
transfer load, and they exude an elegance and grace arched bridge but with less demanding construction.
that set them apart from bridges with more geometric On this bridge type, ramps beginning at each end
configurations. But these advantages come at a price: meet in a central landing point, simplifying the
An arched bridge is considerably more difficult to undercarriage. The flat planes of the ramps and the
design and build than flat or angled bridges. Full-size landing make fastening deck boards and installing
arched garden bridges typically feature handrails that posts and rails easier.
echo the curve of the undercarriage. Because of the flat landing, an angled-platform
Low-arched bridges are simpler, scaled-down bridge is an excellent choice if you plan to spend time
versions of full-size arched bridges. They are subtle standing or sitting on the bridge deck, gazing across
and can virtually disappear along a winding pathway your landscape.
or in a casual garden. Railings on this type of bridge
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CHOOSING A SITE effective and safe to cross, it must be sturdy and
A garden bridge can be sited practically anywhere you have a manageable incline. With a few exceptions, a
wish. You don’t need a stream, a gulch, or even a berm. bridge should be equipped with posts and grippable
In fact, few yards contain natural obstacles requiring handrails. The access points to the bridge should be
bridging. Many garden bridges are simply plopped stable and well-drained and provide solid footing. The
down in the middle of a flat lawn. Sheer decorative height of the decking should be no more than a couple
appeal is a fine reason to build a bridge. However, if of inches above the ground at the ends of the bridge.
you are a pragmatist who can’t abide the thought of a A garden bridge is not intended to support
bridge that leads to nowhere or spans no obstacle, you vehicles. (A typical garden bridge can be picked up
can justify the presence of the bridge by creating a dry intact and moved fairly easily.) Bridges designed for
rock bed (sometimes called an arroyo), a planting bed, vehicle traffic or to span a public waterway, culvert, or
a landscape berm, or a drainage swale for it to cross. ditch are considered permanent structures. They must
Above all, a garden bridge is a decorative meet specific load, safety, and environmental impact
landscape feature. Its primary purpose is to beautify standards. They require professional engineering and
and create a visual focal point in your yard or garden. special permits. Building this type of bridge is not a
But a garden bridge also performs a function. To be do-it-yourself project.
When siting a garden bridge, the best results often come when the site is custom-landscaped for the bridge. This plain front yard
was not a good candidate for a bridge until the dry creek “arroyo” was added.
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BUILDING BRIDGES more than 1 foot of rise, make the undercarriage
Bridges are composed of three elements: the from multiple segments (see sidebar, below) or bent
undercarriage, the decking, and a post-and-rail laminations. The large bridge in the photo on page 188
system. Because they are freestanding structures, has three undercarriage support beams. Each beam
garden bridges are not normally attached to piers, is made from 10 segments glued and bolted together
pilings, or footings. in a double layer. The joints between segments are
The success of a garden bridge depends on the staggered so they do not align.
integrity of the undercarriage—the matrix of supports If your bridge will be wider than 30", include a
and spreaders that bear the decking and posts. Where central support beam along with the outer beams.
possible, design your bridge so each support can be Single-layer beams are adequate for smaller bridges
cut from a single piece of dimensional lumber. that have less rise. But if you are creating segmented
To increase the maximum lift generated by a beams, you should use double layers, with each
single board, graft the arched cutout from the bottom layer functioning as a gusset for the opposing layer.
edge of the board onto the top edge. Pressure-treated pine is the best wood to use for the
The bigger and higher your bridge is, the more undercarriage. The beams should be connected with
complex the geometry of the supports. If you want spreaders to set the bridge width and prevent racking.
Building the Undercarriage ▸
Bridges that rise more than a foot generally are supported The inner layer of each outer beam is trimmed along
by beams fashioned from multiple segments. Each beam the top to create a support ledge for the decking, and
for the bridge shown on page 188 is made from 10 angled both layers of the center beam are trimmed. Spreaders
segments joined into a double layer. are installed between the beams to establish spacing and
prevent racking.
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DECKING In most cases, the deck boards should be screwed
Use 5/4 deck boards or 2× dimensional lumber for the to—not nailed to the supports. Snap a chalkline first
bridge decking. On flat or angled-platform bridges you to align the screws. If you want to avoid exposed
can attach 6"-wide decking, but for arched bridges 4"- fasteners (or use wider decking on an arched bridge),
wide stock is better. The curved tops of the arched bridge hidden fasteners, such as stair angles, may be used.
beams greatly reduce the amount of bearing surface for
the decking, causing wider deck boards to rock.
Options for Attaching Decking ▸
OPTION 1: Rest deck boards directly on the top edges of OPTION 3: Use hidden metal hardware attached to the
the beams, providing at least 1" of overhang. inside faces of the support beams.
OPTION 2: Add a ledge or create one by trimming the inner
layer of double-layer beams.
Option 1 Option 2 Option 3
WOOD DECKING
5/4 decking
2 × decking
Both 2x and 5/4 lumber are suitable for use as decking. If you hand-select each of your deck boards, look for pieces
However, 5/4 will generally be of higher quality, and with vertical grain pattern (left in photo). They’ll be less inclined
the radiused edges prevent splintering—an important to cup and warp than flat-grain lumber (right), but the wood
consideration for bare feet or if you have young children. tends to be significantly heavier.
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POSTS AND HANDRAILS almost exclusively visual, relating to matters of scale,
Posts and handrails are not always required, but they mass, balance, and ornamentation. If you incorporate
can enhance safety and appearance. If the bridge is low railings into your design, make them stand out
more than 12" high or spans a dangerous or delicate visually or they could be a tripping hazard.
obstacle, such as a creek or flowerbed, you should Examining various bridge designs reveals little
include railings. Ideally, railings should be grippable consistency in how to orient the posts that support the
and about 36" above the decking. If you choose to handrails. In some cases, the posts are perpendicular
include balusters in your railing system, make sure to the ground; in others, they’re perpendicular to the
they conform to your local building codes. deck boards. Use whichever method you find more
Posts can be connected with lag screws, carriage visually appealing, unless your bridge deck rises at a
bolts, or deck-post connectors (see sidebar, below). steep incline. If your bridge has a slope greater than 1"
Some low-arched bridges include railings that are per foot, install the posts perpendicular to the ground,
only 12 to 24" above the bridge decking. Obviously, not the bridge deck.
these are not intended as handrails. Their function is
Options for Attaching Posts ▸
OPTION 1: Posts are attached to the bridge undercarriage OPTION 2: Posts are attached with lag screws.
with carriage bolts. Half-laps on the bottom ends stabilize OPTION 3: Posts are attached using metal deck-post
the posts and make them look trimmer and more connectors. This is a utilitarian option and less handsome
proportional to the rest of the bridge. than the other mounting styles.
Option 1
Option 2
Option 3
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TIPS FOR BUILDING BRIDGES of compactable gravel at these points for drainage.
Build as much of the bridge as possible in the Flat stones at each end of the site create stable
workshop, then transport the parts to the installation landings for entering and exiting the structure.
site for assembly. Before you assemble the bridge, Pay attention to these transition areas, especially if
excavate and backfill the site as needed to make the bridge is incorporated into a raised walkway or
the contact points for the bridge ends as level as boardwalk. Transitions should be as seamless and
possible. It’s always a good idea to add a thick layer level as possible.
Building a scale model is a good idea when designing any construction or woodworking project. But when you're designing a
bridge, a model is a virtual necessity to help you make decisions about proportion and scale.
Prepare the site . The ends of the bridge should rest
on flat, well-drained ground. Compactable gravel can
provide both attributes.
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Tips for Building Bridges ▸
• Use hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel fasteners • Wait until the bridge is assembled on site to cut handrail
wherever possible to inhibit rust and corrosion. sections to length.
• Dry-assemble the bridge and take physical • If you use pressure-treated lumber, wait a minimum of
measurements for post angles (photo A) . three to six months before applying finishing products.
• Build and assemble the undercarriage components • Attach posts to the outer beam structures with half-lap
in your shop if possible. Also cut the deck boards to joints. Gang-cut the half-lap shoulders for consistency
uniform length, and predrill for fasteners (photo B) . (photo C) .
A B
C
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Bridge Variations ▸
THE X-BRIDGE
balusters with railing supports are replaced with a rail
system inspired by steel-truss bridge design. The railing is
kept low because the proportions worked better visually
and the low elevation of the bridge doesn’t require a
functioning handrail. This “X” design also employs an
arched bridge deck instead of a flat deck. The result has
a pleasing contemporary appearance. Constructing the
In terms of technique, bridge building is similar to deck supports and handrails is not difficult. Simply overlap six
building. But that doesn’t mean your garden bridge pieces of tapered, pressure-treated 1 × 8 pine to make the
must look like a deck. One clever variation on garden X-shaped railing supports. Cut the handrails and beams
bridge building is the “X-Bridge”, where traditional railing from 2× stock.
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THE SIX-FOOT FOOTBRIDGE
You can build a low-arched or
flat bridge like this in an hour or
two for a minimal expense.
Whenever possible, cut the
support beams from a single
piece of stock. You can increase
the lift by grafting the arched
cutouts onto the top of the beam.
Along with the screwed-down 2 × 4 decking, simple
2 × 4 spreaders at each end and another near the middle
provide lateral support.
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Simple Garden Bridge
A n elegant garden bridge invites you into a landscape
by suggesting you stop and spend some time there.
Cross a peaceful pond, traverse an arroyo of striking
Materials ▸
natural stone, or move from one garden space to the next 4 4 × 4" × 8 ft. 8 1 × 2" × 8 ft.
and explore. While a bridge is practical and functions cedar boards cedar boards
as a way to get from point A to point B, it does so much 2 2 × 10" × 8 ft. 2 1⁄2 × 2" × 8' cedar
more. It adds dimension, a sense of romanticism, and cedar boards lattice
the feeling of escaping to somewhere special. 10 2 × 4" × 8 ft. Lag screws (3⁄8 × 4")
The bridge you see here can be supported with cedar boards Deck screws (2", 3")
handrails and trellis panels. But left simple as pictured, 2 1 × 8" × 8 ft. Finishing materials
we think the sleek, modern design blends well in the cedar boards
landscape, providing a focal point without overwhelming 2 1 × 3" × 8 ft.
a space. cedar boards
Unlike many landscape and garden bridges that are large, ornate, and designed to be the center of attention, this low cedar
bridge has a certain refined elegance that is a direct result of its simple design.
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Cutting List
Key Part Dim. Pcs. Material
A Stringers 1½ × 9¼ × 96" 2 Cedar
B Stretchers 1½ × 3½ × 27" 4 Cedar
C Treads 1½ × 3½ × 30" 26 Cedar C
C
B A
B
A
B
B
■ Preparing Bridge Pieces
Study the cutting list carefully and take care when • Diagonal lines from these points to the top of each
measuring for cuts. The building blocks of this line to the left and right of the center
bridge are: stringers, a base, and treads. Read these
preliminary instructions carefully, then study the steps Base: Four straight boards called “stretchers” form
before you begin. the base that support the bridge. Before cutting these
Stringers: This first step involves cutting the pieces, mark stretcher locations on the insides of the
main structural pieces of the bridge. The stringers stringers, 1½" from the top and bottom of the stringers.
have arcs cut into their bottom edges, and the ends The outside edges of the stretchers should be 24"
of stringers are cut at a slant to create a gradual from the centers of the stringers so the inside edges
tread incline. Before you cut stringers, carefully draw are flush with the bottoms of the arcs. When working
guidelines on the wood pieces: with the stretchers, the footboard may get quite heavy,
so you will want to move the project to its final resting
• A centerline across the width of each stringer place and finish constructing the project there.
• Two lines across the width of each stringer 24" to Treads: Cut the treads to size according to the
the left and right of the centerline cutting list. Once laid on the stringers, treads will be
• Lines at the ends of each stringer, 1" up from one separated with ¼" gaps. Before you install the treads,
long edge test-fit them to be sure they are the proper size.
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■ Simple Garden Bridge
1 2
Use a circular saw to cut the ends of stringers along the Tack a nail on the centerline, 5¼" up from the same long
diagonal lines, according to the markings described on page 201. edge. Also tack nails along the bottom edge, 20½" to the left
and right of the centerline.
3 4
Make a marking guide from a thin, flexible strip of scrap Use a jigsaw to make arched cut-outs in the bottoms of
wood or plastic, hook it over the center nail, and slide the ends the 2 × 10 stringers after removing the nails and marking guide.
under the outside nails to form a smooth curve. Trace along
the guide with a pencil to make the arc cutting line.
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5 6
Assemble the base by preparing stringers and positioning Turn the stringer assembly upside down and attach the
the stretchers between them. Stand the stringers upright top stretchers, securing them through the outside face of each
(curve at the bottom) and support the bottom stretchers stringer into the stretcher.
with 1½"-thick spacer blocks for correct spacing. Fasten the
stretchers between the stringers with countersunk 3" deck
screws, driven through the stringers and into the ends of
the stretchers.
7 8
Attach the treads after test-fitting them. Leave a ¼" gap Sand all surfaces to smooth out any rough spots, and apply
between each tread. Secure them with 3"-long countersunk an exterior wood stain to protect the wood, if desired. You
deck screws driven into the edge of the stringers. can leave the cedar untreated and it will turn gray, possibly
blending even with other landscape features.
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Reference Charts
Metric Conversions
To Convert: To: Multiply by: To Convert: To: Multiply by:
Inches Millimeters 25.4 Millimeters Inches 0.039
Inches Centimeters 2.54 Centimeters Inches 0.394
Feet Meters 0.305 Meters Feet 3.28
Yards Meters 0.914 Meters Yards 1.09
Square inches Square centimeters 6.45 Square centimeters Square inches 0.155
Square feet Square meters 0.093 Square meters Square feet 10.8
Square yards Square meters 0.836 Square meters Square yards 1.2
Ounces Milliliters 30.0 Milliliters Ounces .033
Pints (U.S.) Liters 0.473 (lmp. 0.568) Liters Pints (U.S.) 2.114 (lmp. 1.76)
Quarts (U.S.) Liters 0.946 (lmp. 1.136) Liters Quarts (U.S.) 1.057 (lmp. 0.88)
Gallons (U.S.) Liters 3.785 (lmp. 4.546) Liters Gallons (U.S.) 0.264 (lmp. 0.22)
Ounces Grams 28.4 Grams Ounces 0.035
Pounds Kilograms 0.454 Kilograms Pounds 2.2
Converting Temperatures Lumber Dimensions
Convert degrees Fahrenheit (F) to degrees Celsius (C) by following this simple Nominal - U.S. Actual - U.S. (in inches) Metric
formula: Subtract 32 from the Fahrenheit temperature reading. Then, multiply that 1×2 3
⁄ 4 × 1 1⁄ 2 19 × 38 mm
number by 5⁄9. For example, 77°F - 32 = 45. 45 × 5⁄9 = 25°C. 1×3 3
⁄ 4 × 2 1⁄ 2 19 × 64 mm
1×4 3
⁄ 4 × 3 1⁄ 2 19 × 89 mm
To convert degrees Celsius to degrees Fahrenheit, multiply the Celsius temperature 1×5 3
⁄ 4 × 4 1⁄ 2 19 × 114 mm
reading by 9⁄5. Then, add 32. For example, 25°C × 9⁄5 = 45. 45 + 32 = 77°F. 1×6 3
⁄ 4 × 5 1⁄ 2 19 × 140 mm
1×7 3
⁄ 4 × 6 1⁄ 4 19 × 159 mm
Fahrenheit Celsius 1×8 3
⁄ 4 × 7 1⁄ 4 19 × 184 mm
55° 15° 1 × 10 3
⁄ 4 × 9 1⁄ 4 19 × 235 mm
50° 10° 1 × 12 3
⁄4 × 111⁄4 19 × 286 mm
45°
40° 5° 1 1⁄ 4 × 4 1 × 3 1⁄ 2 25 × 89 mm
35°
Freezing
1 1⁄ 4 × 6 1 × 5 1⁄ 2 25 × 140 mm
30° 0°
25°
1 1⁄ 4 × 8 1 × 7 1⁄ 4 25 × 184 mm
-5°
20° 11⁄4 × 10 1 × 9 1⁄ 4 25 × 235 mm
15° -10°
10°
11⁄4 × 12 1 × 111⁄4 25 × 286 mm
5° -15° 1 1⁄ 2 × 4 1 1⁄ 4 × 3 1⁄ 2 32 × 89 mm
0°
1 1⁄ 2 × 6 1 1⁄ 4 × 5 1⁄ 2 32 × 140 mm
1 1⁄ 2 × 8 1 1⁄ 4 × 7 1⁄ 4 32 × 184 mm
11⁄2 × 10 1 1⁄ 4 × 9 1⁄ 4 32 × 235 mm
11⁄2 × 12 11⁄4 × 111⁄4 32 × 286 mm
Metric Plywood Panels
2×4 1 1⁄ 2 × 3 1⁄ 2 38 × 89 mm
Metric plywood panels are commonly available in two sizes: 1,200 mm × 2,400
2×6 1 1⁄ 2 × 5 1⁄ 2 38 × 140 mm
mm and 1,220 mm × 2,400 mm, which is roughly equivalent to a 4 × 8-ft. sheet.
2×8 1 1⁄ 2 × 7 1⁄ 4 38 × 184 mm
Standard and Select sheathing panels come in standard thicknesses, while Sanded
2 × 10 1 1⁄ 2 × 9 1⁄ 4 38 × 235 mm
grade panels are available in special thicknesses.
2 × 12 11⁄2 × 111⁄4 38 × 286 mm
Standard Sheathing Grade Sanded Grade
3×6 2 1⁄ 2 × 5 1⁄ 2 64 × 140 mm
7.5 mm (5⁄16 in.) 6 mm (4⁄17 in.)
4×4 3 1⁄ 2 × 3 1⁄ 2 89 × 89 mm
9.5 mm (3⁄8 in.) 8 mm (5⁄16 in.)
4×6 3 1⁄ 2 × 5 1⁄ 2 89 × 140 mm
12.5 mm (1⁄2 in.) 11 mm (7⁄16 in.)
15.5 mm (5⁄8 in.) 14 mm (9⁄16 in.)
18.5 mm (3⁄4 in.) 17 mm (2⁄3 in.) Liquid Measurement Equivalents
20.5 mm (13⁄16 in.) 19 mm (3⁄4 in.) 1 Pint = 16 Fluid Ounces = 2 Cups
22.5 mm (7⁄8 in.) 21 mm (13⁄16 in.) 1 Quart = 32 Fluid Ounces = 2 Pints
25.5 mm (1 in.) 24 mm (15⁄16 in.) 1 Gallon = 128 Fluid Ounces = 4 Quarts
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Credits
Handyman Club of America
pp . 28-65, 71-121, 134-143, 148-163, 168-177, 188, 193,
195, 196, 197 (top left), 198-199
Shutterstock
pp . 70, 190
Christopher Mills
pp . 180
Resources
Aluminum Angle Handyman Club of America
859-745-2650 http://handy .scout .com
www .metalsdepot .com
Killian Hardware (gate hardware)
Axle Push Cap 215-247-0945
888-713-2880 www .killianhardware .com
www .sportsmith .net
McFeely’s (stainless steel lag screws and fasteners)
Black & Decker (power tools and accessories) 800-443-7937
800-544-6986 www .mcfeelys .com
www .blackanddecker .com
Penofin (oil stain and finishes)
Rockler Woodworking (decorative finish washers & 800-736-6346
router bits) www .penofin .com
800-279-4441
www .rockler .com Simpson Strong-Tie
800-999-5099
Dek-Block Piers (precast concrete piers) www .strongtie .com
800-664-2705
www .deckplans .com West Marine (chromed bow eyes)
800-262-8464
Fiskars (posthole digger) www .westmarine .com
800-500-4849
www .fiskars .com
Credits / Resources ■ 205324896 - B&D The Complete Guide to Outdoor Carpentry Updated 3rd Edition_001-208.indd 205 15/2/19 12:08 PM 324896 - B&D The Complete Guide to Outdoor Carpentry Updated 3rd Edition_001-208.indd 205 15/2/19 11:58 AM Title: 324896 - B&D The Complete Guide to Outdoor Carpentry Updated 3rd Edition Text Page: 205
Index
A construction adhesive, 108, 112– types of, 191, 198–199
Adirondack chairs 113, 151 undercarriage for, 193
Classic Adirondack Chair, 16–21 copper pipes, 147 vehicle bridges vs ., 192
design and, 16 countertop edging, 113 X-bridge, 198
paint colors for, 16 cup hooks, 137 gardening
Sling-Back Adirondack, 32–37 cypress, 60 Compost Bin, 124–127
adjustable back, 63–65 High-low Potting Bench, 134–137
adjustable squares, 106 D Jumbo Cold Frame, 152–157
angled platform bridges, 191 decking Raised Bed with Removable
arbors composite, 74 Trellis, 144–147
Freestanding Arbor, 128–133 options for attaching, 194 Trellis Planter, 138–143
arc cuts, 202 deck-support ledges, 190 Versailles Planter, 148–151
arched bridges, 191 design gliders, 169
Adirondack chairs and, 16 gravel
B around propane tank storage, 114 garden bridge drainage and, 196
barbecuing, 114 for sheltered swing, 172 for planter drainage, 143
bench grinder, 116 dining . See tables for postholes, 175
benches drainage as sandbox bed, 118, 120
High-low Potting Bench, 134–137 for garden bridges, 196 stationary benches and, 29
Knockdown Garden Bench, 26–31 for planters, 143
Recyclables Bench, 52–57 for postholes, 175 H
Slatted Garden Bench, 22–25 for stationary benches, 29 hacksaws, 116
Trestle Table and Benches, 72–79 half-lap joints, 86, 88, 158, 197
bevel cuts, 140 E hardware
bridges . See garden bridges end-post pairs, 181 brass, 58, 61
butt hinges, 95 entertaining chest handles, 57
Patio Prep Cart, 108–113 cup hooks, 137
C Pitmaster’s Locker, 114–117 eyebolts, 50–51
candles, 158, 162 See also tables for folding tables, 94–95
canvas seats, 32, 36–37 entryways, 52 hinges, 57, 112
caulk, 108, 112-113 eyebolts, 50–51 latches/strikeplates, 111
cedar, 22 for pergola, 178–179
cedar lap siding, 164, 167 F stainless steel, 32
Cedar Patio Table, 80–83 fence panels, 126 strap hinges, 94, 95
chairs Firewood Shelter, 164–167 wheels/casters, 65, 111–112
Classic Adirondack Chair, 16–21 flat bridges, 190-191 High-low Potting Bench, 134–137
Luxury Sun Lounger, 58–65 Folding Table, 92–95 HVLP sprayers, 44
Side-by-Side Patio Chair, 10–15 Four-post Patio Pergola, 178–187
Sling-Back Adirondack, 32–37 Freestanding Arbor, 128–133 J
chamfered edges, 84, 89–90 jointers, 60
children G Jumbo Cold Frame, 152–157
Children’s Picnic Table, 100–103 garden bridges
Timberframe Sandbox, 118–121 building, 193–197 K
circular tabletops, 88–89 choosing site for, 192 kerf edges, chiseling, 30
Classic Adirondack Chair, 16–21 decking for, 194 kids . See children
clear wood sealer, 16, 21, 22, 25, 69, designing, 190–191 Knockdown Garden Bench, 26–31
99, 127, 132 dimensions of, 190
Cold Frame, Jumbo, 152–157 handrails for, 195 L
composite boards placement of, 189, 192 landscape fabric, 177
advantages of, 72, 134, 136 posts for, 195 lattice, 66
cutting, 79 scale models of, 196 lighting, 158
screws for, 78, 137 Simple Garden Bridge, 200–203 linseed oil, 80, 83, 102
working with, 74 Six-foot Footbridge, 199 liquid measurement equivalents, 204
Compost Bin, 124–127 styles of, 190 low arched bridges, 191
composting, 124 tips for building, 196–197
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lumber for outdoor use, 116–117 Slatted Garden Bench, 22–25
cedar, 22 Porch Swing, 38–45 Sling-Back Adirondack, 32–37
cypress, 60 Porch Swing Stand, 46–51 speed squares, 48
milling, 60 post assemblies, 174–175 spreaders, 190
preparing stock, 60 postholes, 175 stainless steel screws, 32, 34–35
redwood, 43, 58, 60, 104 posts, options for attaching, 195 stock, preparing, 60
rip-cutting, 12, 34, 41–43, 54, 58, Potting Bench, High-low, 134–137 storage
62, 75, 94, 140, 151, 160 power planers, 60 Firewood Shelter, 164–167
treated, 100 precast concrete piers, 29 Recyclables Bench, 52–57
for undercarriage, 190 profiled rails, 54 Timberframe Sandbox, 118–121
See also composite boards propane tanks, 114 strap hinges, 94, 95
lumber dimensions, 204 pullout trays, 58, 64–65 swings
Luxury Sun Lounger, 58–65 purlins, 185–187 comfort and, 38
PVC plumbing pipe, 144, 147 hanging, 45, 50–51
M Porch Swing, 38–45
metal cutoff saw, 116 R Porch Swing Stand, 46–51
metal frames, 114–116 rabbets, 150 Sheltered Swing, 168–177
metric conversions, 204 rafters, 185–187
metric plywood panels, 204 Raised Bed with Removable Trellis, T
mortise-and-tenon joints, 72, 173 144–147 tables
mortises, faux, 172, 173 Recyclables Bench, 52–57 Cedar Patio Table, 80–83
redwood, 43, 58, 60, 104 Children’s Picnic Table, 100–103
P reverse tapered legs, 84–91 Folding Table, 92–95
Pagoda Lantern, 158–163 roofing panels, polycarbonate, 152, Occasional Table, 96–99
paint 156–157 planter as, 151
for Adirondack chairs, 16 Teahouse Table Set, 84–91
for garden bridges, 190 S Traditional Picnic Table, 104–107
for pagoda lantern, 158 Sandbox, Timberframe, 118–121 Trestle Table and Benches, 72–79
for planters, 151 saw protractors, 102 tapered legs, reverse, 84–91
for porch swing, 40 scale models of garden bridges, 196 Teahouse Table Set, 84–91
on recyclables bench, 52, 55, 56 seating temperature conversions, 204
for tables, 92, 95, 96, 99, 100, 102, adding to arbor, 133 thermometers for cold frames, 157
107 Classic Adirondack Chair, 16–21 tile
Patio Chair, Side-by-Side, 10–15 comfort and, 9 cart top installation, 108, 113
Patio Prep Cart, 108–113 Knockdown Garden Bench, 26–31 as pagoda lantern base, 158, 162
pavers, 118, 121, 152 Luxury Sun Lounger, 58–65 Timberframe Sandbox, 118–121
Pergola, Four-post Patio, 178–187 Porch Swing, 38–45 Traditional Picnic Table, 104–107
picnic tables Porch Swing Stand, 46–51 Trellis Planter, 138–143
Children’s Picnic Table, 100–103 Recyclables Bench, 52–57 Trellis Seat, 66–69
Traditional Picnic Table, 104–107 Sheltered Swing, 168–177 trellises
Pitmaster’s Locker, 114–117 Side-by-side Patio Chair, 10–15 Freestanding Arbor, 128–133
planers, 60, 172 Slatted Garden Bench, 22–25 Raised Bed with Removable
planters Sling-Back Adirondack, 32–37 Trellis, 144–147
gravel for drainage, 143 Trellis Seat, 66–69 Trellis Planter, 138–143
lining, 142–143 Sheltered Swing, 168–177 Trellis Seat, 66–69
Raised Bed with Removable shoulder cuts, 141 Trestle Table and Benches, 72–79
Trellis, 144–147 Side-by-Side Patio Chair, 10–15
Trellis Planter, 138–143 Simple Garden Bridge, 200–203 U
Versailles Planter, 148–151 site preparation umbrellas
plastic sheathing for cold frame, 152 Cedar Patio Table, 80, 83
as planter liner, 142 for garden bridges, 196 holes for, 15, 83
as sandbox liner, 118, 120 for sandbox, 118 securing, 10
plumb cuts, 12 for sheltered swing, 174–175 Side-by-Side Patio Chair, 10–15
plywood Six-foot Footbridge, 199 undercarriage, 182–184, 190, 191,
metric panels, 204 slats, spacing, 25 193, 197
Index ■ 207324896 - B&D The Complete Guide to Outdoor Carpentry Updated 3rd Edition_001-208.indd 207 15/2/19 12:08 PM 324896 - B&D The Complete Guide to Outdoor Carpentry Updated 3rd Edition_001-208.indd 207 15/2/19 11:58 AM Title: 324896 - B&D The Complete Guide to Outdoor Carpentry Updated 3rd Edition Text Page: 207
V X
vehicle bridges, garden bridges vs ., 192 X-bridge, 198
Versailles Planter, 148–151
Y
W yard accessories
wheels, 65, 111–112 Firewood Shelter, 164–167
wood . See lumber Four-post Patio Pergola, 178–187
wood finish/sealer, 16, 21, 22, 25, 44, Freestanding Arbor, 128–133
69, 99, 127, 132 Pagoda Lantern, 158–163
wood plugs, 16, 44 Sheltered Swing, 168–177
See also garden bridges
208 ■ COMPLETE GUIDE TO OUTDOOR CARPENTRY324896 - B&D The Complete Guide to Outdoor Carpentry Updated 3rd Edition_001-208.indd 208 15/2/19 12:08 PM 324896 - B&D The Complete Guide to Outdoor Carpentry Updated 3rd Edition_001-208.indd 208 15/2/19 11:58 AM Title: 324896 - B&D The Complete Guide to Outdoor Carpentry Updated 3rd Edition Text Page: 208
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