Plumbing
Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Plumbing - Expanded 4th Edition
Source: Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Plumbing - Expanded 4th Edition.pdf
Source file: Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Plumbing - Expanded 4th Edition.pdf
THE COMPLETE GUIDE TOPLUMBING Expanded 4th Edition Modern Materials and Current Codes All New Guide to Working with Gas Pipe
MORE
THAN 600,000
COPIES SOLD
THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO
PLUMBING
Expanded 4th Edition
Modern Materials and Current Codes
All New Guide to Working with Gas Pipe
MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA
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The complete guide to home plumbing : modern materials and current Lead Photographer: Steve Galvin
codes all new guide to working with gas pipe. -- Expanded 4th ed. Photo Coordinator: Joanne Wawra
p. cm. Shop Manager: Bryan McLain
Summary: “Expanded 4th edition includes all standard plumbing Shop Assistant: Cesar Fernandez Rodriguez
projects, as well as new information on outdoor plumbing, PEX, Technical Consultant: Joe Robillard
and gas line hook ups”--Provided by publisher.
At head of title: Black & Decker. Production Managers: Linda Halls, Laura Hokkanen
ISBN-13: 978-1-58923-378-2 (soft cover)
ISBN-10: 1-58923-378-6 (soft cover) Page Layout Artists: Laura Rades, Danielle Smith
1. Plumbing--Amateurs’ manuals. 2. Dwellings--Remodeling--Ama- Copy Editor: Ruth Strother
teurs’ manuals. I. Title: Home plumbing. II. Title: Black & Decker, the Photographers: Andrea Rugg, Joel Schnell
complete guide to plumbing. Shop Help: Scott Boyd, David Hartley
TH6124.C66 2008
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2008008636
The Complete Guide to Plumbing
Created by: The editors of Creative Publishing international, Inc., in cooperation with Black & Decker.
Black & Decker® is a trademark of The Black & Decker Corporation and is used under license.
NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The publisher
and Black & Decker cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse
of the information provided.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional
techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions included with products,
since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required:
some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help.
Consult your local building department for information on building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to
your project.HI0552_CGPlumb_001-039_.indd 2 Provision (CPI)•CG To Plumbing HI 0552 TEXT 3/25/08 8:17:08 AM CD308-121_4242 2nd Proof BLACK
Contents
The Complete Guide
to Plumbing
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
The Home Plumbing System . . . . . . . . . 6
Plumbing Fixtures . . . . . . . . 11
Toilets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Kitchen Faucets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Kitchen Drains & Traps . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Dishwashers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Food Disposers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Plumbing Installations. . . . 151 Plumbing Tools,
Materials & Skills . . . . . . . . 267
Water Heaters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Installation Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
Plumbing Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268
Bathroom Faucets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Plumbing Routes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
Plumbing Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272
Shower Kits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Master Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
Copper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
Custom Shower Bases . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Basement Bath. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
Working with Rigid Plastic Pipe . . . . . 282
Alcove Bathtubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Half Bath. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
Working with Outdoor Flexible
3-Piece Tub Surrounds . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Plastic Pipe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286
Sliding Tub Doors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 New Gas Lines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
Working with Cross-Linked
Bidets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Plumbing Repairs. . . . . . . . 199 Plyethylene (PEX) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288
Urinals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Common Toilet Problems. . . . . . . . . . 200 Working with Galvanized Iron . . . . . . 296
Water Softeners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Toilet Flanges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 Working with Cast Iron. . . . . . . . . . . . 300
Hot Water Dispensers . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Toilet Drain Lines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 Pipe Fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304
Icemakers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Sinks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Installing Shutoff Valves . . . . . . . . . . . 308
Pot Fillers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Sprayers & Aerators . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Repairing Valves & Hose Bibs. . . . . . . 310
Reverse-Osmosis Water Filters . . . . . 122 Leaky Plumbing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 Using Compression Fittings . . . . . . . . 312
Freezeproof Sillcocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Tubs & Showers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 Gas Pipe & Fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314
Pedestal Sinks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Sink Drains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244
Appendix: Planning
Wall-Hung Vanities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Branch & Main Drains . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 Your Project . . . . . . . . . . . . 318
Vessel Sinks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Branch Drains & Vents . . . . . . . . . . . . 250
Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328
Integral Vanity Tops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Main Stacks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254
Conversion Chart. . . . . . . . 329
Kitchen Sinks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Supply Lines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
Undermount Sinks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Burst Pipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262
Resources & Credits . . . . . 330
Standpipe Drains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 Noisy Pipes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331HI0552_CGPlumb_001-039_.indd 3 Provision (CPI)•CG To Plumbing HI 0552 TEXT 3/11/08 3:26:39 PM CD308-25_4264 1st Proof BLACK
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Introduction
S ince first hitting bookstore shelves in 1998, The Complete Guide to Home Plumbing has established itself as
the best-selling and most authoritative do-it-yourself home plumbing manual available. Now in its 4th edition,
The Complete Guide to Plumbing is bigger and better than ever, and completely current with the current National
Plumbing Code. In this comprehensive new volume, you will find all the practical information and know-how you
need to understand, install, repair, replace, and maintain your home plumbing system safely and with confidence.
For this new edition, we have freshened up some of the meat-and-potatoes projects to reflect newer products
and refinements to the methods. If you have ever installed a toilet before, read through the very first project in
the book, “Replace a Toilet.” You’ll find a couple of new helpful hints that you haven’t seen in the past. And if
you are a follower of bathroom design trends, you won’t want to miss our all-new sequences on installing urinals
and bidets. These two fixtures are growing quickly in popularity for home usage. You won’t find step-by-step
information on either of these projects in any other home plumbing book.
Another unique feature of this 4th edition is the inclusion of some basic information on working with gas
pipe, including a couple of gas projects. Working with gas pipe is not for everyone. It has the potential for danger
and in some areas, homeowners are simply not allowed to install or service gas pipe or connections. But if you
have the inclination and the approval to install a new branch line in your natural gas system or just to hook up a
gas water heater, you’ll find all the information you need right here.
For your convenience, you will find all of the step-by-step projects in the front of this book where they’re easy
to find. We’ve even ranked them more or less in order of popularity, according to the plumbing service pros we’ve
spoken to. The indispensable information on tools, materials, and techniques is included in the back of the book
for easy reference.
In preparing The Complete Guide to Plumbing we have tried to anticipate your situation and needs as
accurately as possible. If at any time you find yourself stuck or a question arises that is not covered in this book,
do not hesitate to contact a plumber or your local plumbing inspector.
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The Home Plumbing System
B ecause most of a plumbing system is hidden inside
walls and floors, it may seem to be a complex
maze of pipes and fittings. In fact, home plumbing is
dishwashers, clothes washers, and water softeners.
Toilets and exterior sillcocks are examples of fixtures
that require only a cold water line.
simple and straightforward. Understanding how home The water supply to fixtures and appliances is
plumbing works is an important first step toward doing controlled with faucets and valves. Faucets and valves
routine maintenance and money-saving repairs. have moving parts and seals that eventually may wear
A typical home plumbing system includes three out or break, but they are easily repaired or replaced.
basic parts: a water supply system, a fixture and Waste water then enters the drain system. It first
appliance set, and a drain system. These three parts must flow past a drain trap (5), a U-shaped piece of
can be seen clearly in the photograph of the cut-away pipe that holds standing water and prevents sewer
house on the opposite page. gases from entering the home. Every fixture must have
Fresh water enters a home through a main supply a drain trap.
line (1). This fresh water source is provided by either The drain system works entirely by gravity,
a municipal water company or a private underground allowing waste water to flow downhill through a series
well. If the source is a municipal supplier, the water of large-diameter pipes. These drain pipes are attached
passes through a meter (2) that registers the amount to a system of vent pipes. Vent pipes (6) bring fresh
of water used. A family of four uses about 400 gallons air to the drain system, preventing suction that would
of water each day. slow or stop drain water from flowing freely. Vent pipes
Immediately after the main supply enters the usually exit the house at a roof vent (7).
house, a branch line splits off (3) and is joined to a All waste water eventually reaches a main waste
water heater (4). From the water heater, a hot water and vent stack (8). The main stack curves to become a
line runs parallel to the cold water line to bring the sewer line (9) that exits the house near the foundation. In
water supply to fixtures and appliances throughout a municipal system, this sewer line joins a main sewer
the house. Fixtures include sinks, bathtubs, showers, line located near the street. Where sewer service is not
and laundry tubs. Appliances include water heaters, available, waste water empties into a septic system.
Water meters and main shutoff valves
are located where the main water supply
pipe enters the house. The water meter is
the property of your local municipal water
company. If the water meter leaks, or if
you suspect it is not functioning properly,
call your water company for repairs.
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(7) Roof vent
(8) Waste and
vent stack
(6) Vent pipe
(5) Trap
(4)
Water
heater
(3)
Branch
line
Branch drain line
Main
shutoff
valve
(2) Water meter
Hot water
supply lines
Floor
Cold water drain
supply lines
Drain lines
Vent lines
(1) Main (9) Sewer line
supply line
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■ Water Supply System
Water supply pipes carry hot and cold water Hot and cold water supply pipes are connected
throughout a house. In homes built before 1960, the to fixtures or appliances. Fixtures include sinks, tubs,
original supply pipes were usually made of galvanized and showers. Some fixtures, such as toilets or hose
iron. Newer homes have supply pipes made of copper. bibs, are supplied only by cold water. Appliances
In most areas of the country, supply pipes made of rigid include dishwashers and clothes washers. A refrig-
plastic or PEX are accepted by local plumbing codes. erator icemaker uses only cold water. Tradition says
Water supply pipes are made to withstand the that hot water supply pipes and faucet handles are
high pressures of the water supply system. They have found on the left-hand side of a fixture, with cold
small diameters, usually 1⁄2" to 1", and are joined with water on the right.
strong, watertight fittings. The hot and cold lines run Because it is pressurized, the water supply
in tandem to all parts of the house. Usually, the supply system is prone to leaks. This is especially true of
pipes run inside wall cavities or are strapped to the galvanized iron pipe, which has limited resistance
undersides of floor joists. to corrosion.
Hot water
supply lines
Cold water
supply lines
In from municipal
water supply
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■ Drain-Waste-Vent System
Drain pipes use gravity to carry waste water away standing water, and they are usually found near
from fixtures, appliances, and other drains. This waste any drain opening. The standing water of a trap
water is carried out of the house to a municipal sewer prevents sewer gases from backing up into the
system or septic tank. home. Each time a drain is used, the standing
Drain pipes are usually plastic or cast iron. In trap water is flushed away and is replaced by
some older homes, drain pipes may be made of new water.
copper or lead. Because they are not part of the In order to work properly, the drain system
supply system, lead drain pipes pose no health hazard. requires air. Air allows waste water to flow freely
However, lead pipes are no longer manufactured for down drain pipes.
home plumbing systems. To allow air into the drain system, drain pipes
Drain pipes have diameters ranging from 11⁄4" are connected to vent pipes. All drain systems must
to 4". These large diameters allow waste to pass include vents, and the entire system is called the
through easily. drain-waste-vent (DWV) system. One or more vent
Traps are an important part of the drain stacks, located on the roof, provide the air needed
system. These curved sections of drain pipe hold for the DWV system to work.
Vent
Vent lines
Trap
Drain lines
Out to municipal
sewer or septic tank
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Plumbing
Fixtures
A lthough it might be a bit of a stretch to refer to
any aspect of plumbing as glamorous or fun,
installing fixtures like sinks and showers is the heart of
the plumbing pursuit. It is the aspect of plumbing we
naturally think of first, and in many cases the payoff is
almost instantaneous.
In this section you will find photos and step-by-
step instructions for the 27 plumbing fixture installations
you, as a do-it-yourselfer, are most likely to attempt.
The section with the most common fixture project
by far is Toilets. From removal of the old unit to
wrangling the new one into place, making all the
hookups and even installing the seat, the entire project
is laid out for you in full color photos. From there,
you’ll find a series of projects that move from kitchen
to bath to laundry and back again, all shown
in full detail.
In this chapter:
• Toilets • Water Softners
• Kitchen Faucets • Hot Water Dispensers
• Kitchen Drains & Traps • Icemakers
• Dishwashers • Pot Fillers
• Food Disposers • Reverse-Osmosis
• Water Heaters Water Filters
• Bathroom Faucets • Freezeproof Sillcocks
• Shower Kits • Pedestal Sinks
• Custom Shower Bases • Wall-Hung Vanities
• Alcove Tubs • Vessel Sinks
• 3-Piece Tub Surrounds • Integral Vanity Tops
• Sliding Tub Doors • Kitchen Sinks
• Bidets • Undermount Sinks
• Urinals • Standpipe Drains
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Toilets
Y ou can replace a poorly functioning or inefficient
toilet with a high-efficiency, high-quality new
toilet in just a single afternoon. All toilets made
good flush performance, and reliability. With a little
research, you should be able to purchase and install a
high-functioning economical gravity-flush toilet that
since 1996 have been required to use 1.6 gallons will serve you well for years to come.
or less per flush, which has been a huge challenge
for the industry. Today, the most evolved 1.6-gallon
toilets have wide passages behind the bowl and wide
(3") flush valve openings—features that facilitate Tools & Materials 쑺
short, powerful flushes. This means fewer second
flushes and fewer clogged toilets. These problems Adjustable wrench Supply tube
were common complaints of the first generation of Bucket and sponge Teflon tape
1.6-gallon toilets and continue to beleaguer inferior Channel-type pliers Toilet seat bolts
models today. See what toilets are available at your Hacksaw Toilet seat
local home center in your price range, then go Penetrating oil Towels
online and see what other consumers’ experiences Pliers Utility knife
with those models have been. New toilets often go Putty knife Wax ring
through a “de-bugging” stage when problems with Rubber gloves without flange
leaks and malfunctioning parts are more common. Screwdriver Wax ring with flange
Your criteria should include ease of installation,
Replacing a toilet is simple, and
the latest generation of 1.6-gallon
water-saving toilets has overcome the
performance problems of earlier models.
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■ Choosing a New Toilet
Toilets have changed in recent years. There’s a toilet to Dual-flush systems feature two flush buttons on the
fit every style. You can even buy a square or stainless top of the tank, allowing you to select either an 8-ounce
steel toilet, among many other new options. The new flush for liquids or a 1.6-gallon flush for solids.
designs are efficient, durable, and less susceptible
to clogs.
A toilet’s style is partly affected by the way it’s built.
You have a number of options from which to choose:
Two-piece toilets have a separate water tank and bowl.
One-piece toilets have a tank and bowl made of one
seamless unit.
Elongated bowls are roughly 2" longer than
regular bowls.
Elevated toilets have higher seats, generally 18",
rather than the standard 15".
You have a choice of two basic types of flush
mechanisms: gravity- and pressure-assisted.
Gravity-assisted toilets allow water to rush down
from an elevated tank into the toilet bowl. Federal
law mandates that new toilets consume no more
than 1.6 gallons of water per flush, less than half
Toilets are available in a variety of styles and colors to
the volume used by older styles. suit almost any decor. Two-piece toilets are generally cheaper
Pressure-assisted toilets rely on either compressed and come in a great assortment of styles and colors. Many
air or water pumps to boost flushing power. high end models have a matching bidet available.
Gravity-assisted toilets are now designed with taller tanks Pressure-assisted toilets are more expensive than standard
and steeper bowl walls to increase the effects of gravity. toilets, but they can reduce your water usage significantly.
The flush mechanism of a pressure-assisted toilet boosts the
flushing power by using either compressed air or water pumps.
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■ How to Remove a Toilet
1 2
Coupling
nut
Stop
valve
Remove the old supply tube. First, turn off the water at Grip each tank bolt nut with a box wrench or pliers and
the stop valve. Flush the toilet, holding the handle down for a loosen it as you stabilize each tank bolt from inside the tank
long flush, and sponge out the tank. Unthread the coupling nut with a large slotted screwdriver. If the nuts are stuck, apply
for the water supply below the tank using channel-type pliers. penetrating oil to the nut and let it sit before trying to remove
Use a wet/dry vac to clear any remaining water out of the tank them again. You may also cut the tank bolts between the
and bowl. tank and the bowl with an open-ended hacksaw. Remove and
discard the tank.
3 Tip 쑺
Cut down
through
nut with
hacksaw
Removing an old wax ring is one of the more
disgusting jobs you’ll encounter in the plumbing
universe (the one you see here is actually in relatively
good condition). Work a stiff putty knife underneath
Remove the nuts that hold the bowl to the floor. the plastic flange of the ring (if you can) and start
First, pry off the bolt covers with a screwdriver. Use a socket scraping. In many cases the wax ring will come off in
wrench, locking pliers, or your channel-type pliers to loosen chunks. Discard each chunk right away—they stick
the nuts on the tank bolts. Apply penetrating oil and let it sit if to everything. If you’re left with a lot of residue, scrub
the nuts are stuck, then take them off. As a last resort, cut the with mineral spirits. Once clean, stuff a rag in a bag in
bolts off with a hacksaw by first cutting down through one side the drain opening to block sewer gas.
of the nut. Tilt the toilet bowl over and remove it.
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■ How to Install a Toilet
1 Tip 쑺
If you will be replacing your toilet flange or if
Clean and inspect the old closet flange. Look for breaks your existing flange can be unscrewed and moved,
or wear. Also inspect the flooring around the flange. If either orient the new flange so the slots are parallel to the
the flange or floor is worn or damaged, repair the damage. wall. This allows you to insert bolts under the slotted
Use a rag and mineral spirits to completely remove residue areas, which are much stronger than the areas at the
from the old wax ring. Place a rag-in-a-bag into the opening ends of the curved grooves.
to block odors.
2 3
Insert new tank bolts (don’t reuse old ones) into the Remove the wax ring and apply it to the underside of the
openings in the closet flange. Make sure the heads of the bolts bowl, around the horn. Remove the protective covering. Do not
are oriented to catch the maximum amount of flange material. touch the wax ring. It is very sticky. Remove the rag-in-a-bag.
(continued)
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4 5 Spud
nut
Spud
washer
Lower the bowl onto the flange, taking care not to disturb Attach the toilet tank. Some tanks come with a flush valve
the wax ring. The holes in the bowl base should align perfectly and a fill valve preinstalled. For models that do not have this,
with the tank bolts. Add a washer and tighten a nut on each insert the flush valve through the tank opening and tighten
bolt. Hand tighten each nut and then use channel-type pliers to a spud nut over the threaded end of the valve. Place a foam
further tighten the nuts. Alternate back and forth between nuts spud washer on top of the spud nut.
until the bowl is secure. Do not overtighten.
6 7
Intermediate nut goes
between tank and bowl
Threaded
fill valve
shank
Adjust the fill valve as directed by the manufacturer to set With the tank lying on its back, thread a rubber washer
the correct tank water level height and install the valve inside onto each tank bolt and insert it into the bolt holes from inside
the tank. Hand tighten the nylon lock nut that secures the the tank. Then, thread a brass washer and hex nut onto the
valve to the tank (inset photo) and then tighten it further with tank bolts from below and tighten them to a quarter turn past
channel-type pliers. hand tight. Do not overtighten.
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8 9
Intermediate
nut
Position the tank on the bowl, spud washer on opening, You may stabilize the bolts with a large slotted screwdriver
bolts through bolt holes. Put a rubber washer, followed by a from inside the tank, but tighten the nuts, not the bolts. You
brass washer and a wing nut, on each bolt and tighten these may press down a little on a side, the front, or the rear of
up evenly. the tank to level it as you tighten the nuts by hand. Do not
overtighten and crack the tank. The tank should be level and
stable when you’re done. Do not overtighten.
10 11
Hook up the water supply by connecting the supply tube to Attach the toilet seat by threading the plastic or brass bolts
the threaded fill valve with the coupling nut provided. Turn on provided with the seat through the openings on the back of
the water and test for leaks. Do not overtighten. the rim and attaching nuts.
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Kitchen Faucets
M ost new kitchen faucets feature single-handle
control levers and washerless designs that rarely
require maintenance. Additional features include
all the fittings needed for attaching a food disposer or
dishwasher to the sink drain system.
brushed metallic finishes, detachable spray nozzles,
or even push-button controls. Tools & Materials 쑺
Connect the faucet to hot and cold water lines with
easy-to-install flexible supply tubes made from vinyl Adjustable wrench Scouring pad
or braided steel. If your faucet has a separate sprayer, Basin wrench or Scouring cleaner
install the sprayer first. Pull the sprayer hose through channel-type pliers Plumber’s putty
the sink opening and attach to the faucet body before Hacksaw Flexible vinyl or
installing the faucet. Faucet braided steel
Where local codes allow, use plastic tubes Putty knife supply tubes
for drain hookups. A wide selection of extensions Screwdriver Drain components
and angle fittings lets you easily plumb any sink Silicone caulk Penetrating oil
configuration. Manufacturers offer kits that contain
Modern kitchen faucets tend to be single-handle models, often with useful features such as a pull-out head that functions as a
sprayer. This Price Pfister™ model comes with an optional mounting plate that conceals sink holes when mounted on a predrilled
sink flange.
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■ Choosing a New Kitchen Faucet
You’ll find many options when choosing a new kitchen Another difference is in the faucet body. Some faucets
faucet. The best place to start the process is with your have the taps and the spout mounted onto a faucet
sink. In the past, most faucets were mounted directly to body so the spacing between the tailpieces is preset.
the sink deck, which had three or four predrilled holes to Others, called widespread faucets, have independent
accommodate the faucets, spout, sprayer, and perhaps a taps and spouts that can be configured however you
liquid soap dispenser or an air gap for your dishwasher. please, as long as the tubes connecting the taps to the
Modern kitchen faucets don’t always conform to this spouts reach. This type is best if you are installing the
setup, with many of them designed to be installed in a faucet in the countertop (a common way to go about
single hole in the sink deck or in the countertop. If you it with new countertops such as solid surface, quartz,
plan to keep your old sink, look for a faucet that won’t or granite).
leave empty holes in the deck. Generally, it’s best to In the past, kitchen faucets almost always had a
replace like for like, but unfilled stainless sink holes can remote pull-out sprayer. The sprayer was attached to
be filled with snap-in plugs or a soap dispenser. the faucet body with a hose directly below the mixing
The two most basic kitchen faucet categories are valve. While this type of sprayer is still fairly common,
single-handle and two-handle. Single-handle models many faucets today have an integral pull-out spout
are much more popular now because you can adjust that is very convenient and less prone to failure than
the water temperature easily with just one hand. the old-style sprayers.
A single-handle, high arc faucet with traditional remote Single-handle faucets may require four holes, as does this
sprayer. The mounting plate is decorative and optional. model with its side sprayer and matching soap/lotion dispenser.
Two-handled faucets are less common, but remain A single-handle faucet with pull-out spray head requires
popular choices for traditional kitchens. The gooseneck spout only one hole in your sink deck or countertop—a real benefit
also has a certain elegance, but avoid this type if you have a if your sink is not predrilled or if it is an undermount model.
shallow sink that’s less than 8" deep.
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■ How to Remove an Old Faucet
1 2
Mounting
Sprayer hose nut
To remove the old faucet, start by clearing out the cabinet Spray the mounting nuts that hold the faucet or faucet
under the sink and laying down towels. Turn off the hot and handles (on the underside of the sink deck) with penetrating
cold stop valves and open the faucet to make sure the water oil for easier removal. Let the oil soak in for a few minutes.
is off. Detach the sprayer hose from the faucet sprayer nipple
and unscrew the retaining nut that secures the sprayer base
to the sink deck. Pull the sprayer hose out through the sink
deck opening.
3 4
Unhook the supply tubes at the stop valves. Don’t Pull the faucet body from the sink. Remove the sprayer
reuse old chrome supply tubes. If the stops are missing or base if you wish to replace it. Scrape off old putty or caulk with
unworkable, replace them. Then remove the coupling nuts and a putty knife and clean off the sink with a scouring pad and
the mounting nuts on the tailpieces of the faucet with a basin an acidic scouring cleaner like Bar Keeper’s Friend®. Tip: Scour
wrench or channel-type pliers. stainless steel with a back and forth motion to avoid leaving
unsightly circular markings.
20 ■ COMPLETE GUIDE TO PLUMBINGHI0552_CGPlumb_001-039_.indd 20 Provision (CPI)•CG To Plumbing HI 0552 TEXT 3/25/08 8:37:21 AM CD308-121_4242 2nd Proof BLACK
■ How to Install a Kitchen Sink Faucet
1 2
Shown from back
of sink cabinet
for clarity
Shut off hot and cold water at the faucet stop valves. Set the base plate onto the sink flange so it is correctly
Assemble the parts of the deck plate that cover the outer aligned with the predrilled holes in the flange. From below,
mounting holes in your sink deck (unless you are installing tighten the wing nuts that secure the deck plate to the
a two-handle faucet, or mounting the faucet directly to the sink deck.
countertop, as in an undermount sink situation). Add a ring
of plumber’s putty in the groove on the underside of the
base plate.
3 4
Pullout
hose
Mounting
nut Retainer
screws
Washer
Retract the pullout hose by drawing it out through the Slip the mounting nut and washer over the free ends of
faucet body until the fitting at the end of the hose is flush with the supply tubes and pullout hose, then thread the nut onto
the bottom of the threaded faucet shank. Insert the shank and the threaded faucet shank. Hand tighten. Tighten the retainer
the supply tubes down through the top of the deck plate. screws with a screwdriver to secure the faucet.
(continued)
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5 6 7
Water
supply
tube
Slide the hose weight onto the Connect the end of the pullout tube Hook up the water supply tubes to
pullout hose (the weight helps keep to the outlet port on the faucet body the faucet inlets. Make sure the lines are
the hose from tangling and it makes it using a quick connector fitting. long enough to reach the supply risers
easier to retract). without stretching or kinking.
8 9
Connect the supply lines to the supply risers at the Attach the spray head to the end of the pullout hose and
stop valves. Make sure to get the hot lines and cold lines turn the fitting to secure the connection. Turn on water supply
attached correctly. and test. Tip: Remove the aerator in the tip of the spray head
and run hot and cold water to flush out any debris.
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Variation: One-Piece Faucet with Sprayer 쑺
1 2 3
Friction
washer
Tailpiece
Supply
tube
Coupling
nut
Mounting
nut
Apply a thick bead of silicone Slip a friction washer onto each Connect supply tubes to the
caulk to the underside of the faucet tailpiece and then hand tighten a faucet tailpieces. Make sure the
base and then insert the tailpieces mounting nut. Tighten the mounting tubes you buy are long enough
of the faucet through the appropriate nut with channel-type pliers or a to reach the stop valves and that
holes in the sink deck. Press down basin wrench. Wipe up any silicone the coupling nuts will fit the tubes
lightly on the faucet to set it in the squeeze-out on the sink deck with a and tailpieces.
caulk. wet rag before it sets up.
4 5 6
Plumber’s
putty
Friction
washer
Mounting
nut
Sprayer
tailpiece
Apply a ¼" bead of plumber’s putty From beneath, slip the friction Screw the sprayer hose onto the
or silicone caulk to the underside washer over the sprayer tailpiece hose nipple on the bottom of the
of the sprayer base. With the base and then screw the mounting nut faucet. Hand tighten and then give
threaded onto the sprayer hose, onto the tailpiece. Tighten with the nut one quarter turn with channel-
insert the tailpiece of the sprayer channel-type pliers or a basin type pliers or a basin wrench. Turn
through the opening in the sink deck. wrench. Wipe any excess putty or on the water supply at the shutoff,
caulk on the sink deck from around remove the aerator, and flush debris
the base. from the faucet.
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Kitchen Drains & Traps
K itchen sink drains don’t last forever, but on the
plus side, they’re very easy and inexpensive to
replace. The most common models today are made
trap, often with a baffle in the T-fitting where the
outlet line joins with the tailpiece from the other bowl.
If you are installing a disposer, consider installing
of PVC plastic pipe and fittings held together with individual traps to eliminate the baffle, which reduces
slip fittings. In addition to making the installation the flow capacity by half (see page 34).
fairly forgiving, the slip fitting makes the drain easy to
disassemble if you get a clog. The project shown here
is a bit unusual by today’s standards, in that it does Tools & Materials 쑺
not include either a dishwasher drain or a garbage
disposer. But you will see how to add each of these Flat screwdriver Teflon tape
drain systems to your kitchen sink in the following Spud wrench Washers
two chapters. Trap arm Waste-T fitting
You can buy the parts for the kitchen drain Mineral spirits S- or P-trap
individually (you can usually get better quality Cloth
materials this way) or in a kit (see photo, next page). Strainer kit
Because most kitchen sinks have two bowls, the kits Plumber’s putty
include parts for plumbing both drains into a shared
A
B
E
C
F
G
D
Kitchen sink drains include a strainer basket (A), tailpiece (B), continuous waste T (C), P- or S-trap (D), outlet drain lines (E), trap
arm (F), and wall stubout (G).
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Drain Kits 쑺
Kits for installing a new sink drain include all the pipes,
slip fittings, and washers you’ll need to get from the
sink tailpieces (most kits are equipped for a double bowl
kitchen sink) to the trap arm that enters the wall or floor.
For wall trap arms, you’ll need a kit with a P-trap. For
floor drains. you’ll need an S-trap. Both drains normally Chromed brass
are plumbed to share a trap. Chromed brass or PVC with P-trap
slip fittings let you adjust the drain more easily and pull it
apart and then reassemble if there is a clog. Kitchen sink
drains and traps should be 1½" o.d. pipe—the 1¼" pipe
is for lavatories and doesn’t have enough capacity for a
kitchen sink.
P-trap
(for wall drain) S-trap
(for floor drain)
Tips for Choosing Drains 쑺
Wall thickness varies in sink drain Slip joints are formed by tightening Use a spud wrench to tighten
pipes. The thinner plastic material is a male-threaded slip nut over a the strainer body against the
cheaper and more difficult to obtain female-threaded fitting, trapping and underside of the sink bowl. Normally,
a good seal with the thicker, more compressing a beveled nylon washer the strainer flange has a layer of
expensive tubing. The thin product to seal the joint. plumber’s putty to seal beneath it
is best reserved for lavatory drains, above the sink drain, and a pair of
which are far less demanding. washers (one rubber, one fibrous)
to seal below.
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■ How to Hook Up a Kitchen Sink Drain
1 2
If you are replacing the sink strainer body, remove Apply plumber’s putty around the perimeter of the drain
the old one and clean the top and bottom of the sink deck opening and seat the strainer assembly into it. Add washers
around the drain opening with mineral spirits. Attach the drain below as directed and tighten the strainer locknut with a spud
tailpiece to the threaded outlet of the strainer body, inserting wrench (see photo, previous page) or by striking the mounting
a nonbeveled washer between the parts if your strainer kits nubs at the top of the body with a flat screwdriver.
include one. Lubricate the threads or apply Teflon tape so you
can get a good, snug fit.
3 Drain tail pieces
4
Drain stub-cut
Waste-T
Trap arm
Escutcheon
Attach the trap arm to the male-threaded drain stubout in Attach a waste-T-fitting to the drain tailpiece, orienting
the wall, using a slip nut and beveled compression washer. The the opening in the fitting side so it will accept the outlet drain
outlet for the trap arm should point downward. Note: The trap line from the other sink bowl. If the waste-T is higher than the
arm must be higher on the wall than any of the horizontal lines top of the trap arm, remove it and trim the drain tailpiece.
in the set-up, including lines to dishwasher, disposer, or the
outlet line to the second sink bowl.
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Outer
5 drain
pipe
6 Outer drain pipe
Waste-T
Waste-T Trap arm
Trap arm
P-trap
Joint the short end of the outlet drain pipe to the Attach the long leg of a P-trap to the waste-T and attach
tailpiece for the other sink bowl and then attach the end of the the shorter leg to the downward-facing opening of the trap
long run to the opening in the waste-T. The outlet tube should arm. Adjust as necessary and test all joints to make sure they
extend into the T 1⁄2" or so—make sure it does not extend in far are still tight, and then test the system.
enough to block water flow from above.
Variation: Drain in Floor 쑺
Waste-T
Waste-T
Bottom
Top of S-trap Top of S-trap
Outlet
pipe
Floor drain
stubout
Drain
If your drain stubout comes up out of the floor Attach the other half of the S-trap to the stubout
instead of the wall, you’ll need an S-trap to tie into it with a slip fitting. This should result in the new fitting
instead of a P-trap. Attach one half of the S-trap to the facing downward. Join the halves of the S-trap together
threaded bottom of the waste-T. with a slip nut, trimming the unthreaded end if necessary.
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Dishwashers
A dishwasher that’s past its prime may be inefficient
in more ways than one. If it’s an old model, it
probably wasn’t designed to be very efficient to begin
dimensions of the old unit before shopping for a new
one to avoid an unpleasant surprise at installation
time. Also be sure to review the manufacturer’s
with. But more significantly, if it no longer cleans instructions before starting any work.
effectively, you’re probably spending a lot of time
and hot water pre-rinsing the dishes. This alone can
consume more energy and water than a complete
wash cycle on a newer machine. So even if your old
Tools & Materials 쑺
dishwasher still runs, replacing it with an efficient new
Screwdrivers Cable connector
model can be a good green upgrade.
Adjustable wrench Teflon tape
In terms of sizing and utility hookups, dishwashers
2-ft. level Hose clamps
are generally quite standard. If your old machine 5
⁄8" automotive heater hose Wire connectors
is a built-in and your countertops and cabinets are
Automotive heater hose Carpet scrap
standard sizes, most full-size dishwashers will fit
4"-length of 1⁄2" copper tubing Bowl
right in. Of course, you should always measure the
Replacing an old, inefficient dishwasher is a straightforward project that usually takes just a few hours. The energy savings begin
with the first load of dishes and continue with every load thereafter.
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Efficient Loading 쑺
To get the best circulation of water for effective wash action, follow these tips when loading dishes:
• Make sure dishes are loaded so water can reach all of the soiled surfaces.
• Be sure that larger items are not blocking smaller items from the wash action.
• Place all items in both racks so that they are separated and face the center of the dishwasher. This will help to ensure
that water reaches all soiled surfaces.
• Place glasses with the open end facing downward to allow proper washing action.
• Do not place glasses over the tines, but between them. This will allow the glasses to lean toward the spray arm and
will improve washing. It also promotes drying by reducing the amount of water remaining on the top of the glass after
the wash cycle is complete.
• Do not allow flatware to “nest.” This prevents proper water distribution between the surfaces.
• Load flatware, except knives, with some handles up and some down to prevent nesting. For safety, knives should
always be loaded handles up.
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■ How to Replace an Inefficient Dishwasher
1 2
Start by shutting off the electrical power to the Disconnect old plumbing connections. First unscrew the
dishwasher circuit at the service panel. Also, turn off the front access panel. Once the access panel is removed, disconnect
water supply at the shutoff valve, usually located directly the water supply line from the L-fitting on the bottom of the unit.
under the floor. This is usually a brass compression fitting, so just turning the
compression nut counterclockwise with an adjustable wrench
should do the trick. Use a bowl to catch any water that might leak
out when the nut is removed.
3 4
Disconnect old wiring connections. The dishwasher has Disconnect the discharge hose, which is usually connected
an integral electrical box at the front of the unit where the to the dishwasher port on the side of the garbage disposer. To
power cable is attached to the dishwasher’s fixture wires. Take remove it, just loosen the screw on the hose clamp and pull it
off the box cover and remove the wire connectors that join the off. You may need to push this hose back through a hole in the
wires together. cabinet wall and into the dishwasher compartment so it won’t
get caught when you pull the dishwasher out.
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5 6
Detach the unit surrounding cabinets before you pull First, prepare the new dishwasher. Tip it on its back and
out the unit. Remove the screws that hold the brackets to the attach the new L-fitting into the threaded port on the solenoid.
underside of the countertop. Then put a piece of cardboard or Apply some Teflon tape or pipe sealant to the fitting threads
old carpet under the front legs to protect the floor from getting before tightening it in place to prevent possible leaks.
scratched, and pull the dishwasher out.
7 8
Attach a length of new automotive heater hose, usually Prepare for the wiring connections. Like the old dish-
5
⁄8" diameter, to the end of the dishwasher’s discharge hose washer, the new one will have an integral electrical box for
nipple with a hose clamp. The new hose you are adding should making the wiring connections. To gain access to the box, just
be long enough to reach from the discharge nipple to the port remove the box cover. Then install a cable connector on the
on the side of the kitchen sink garbage disposer. back of the box and bring the power cable from the service
panel through this connector. Power should be shut off at the
main service panel at all times.
(continued)
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9 10
Install a leveling leg at each of the four corners while the Once the dishwasher is level, attach the brackets to
new dishwasher is still on its back. Just turn the legs into the the underside of the countertop to keep the appliance from
threaded holes designed for them. Leave about 1⁄2" of each leg moving. Then pull the discharge hose into the sink cabinet and
projecting from the bottom of the unit. These will have to be install it so there’s a loop that is attached with a bracket to the
adjusted later to level the appliance. Tip the appliance up onto underside of the countertop. This loop prevents waste water
the feet and slide it into the opening. Check for level in both from flowing from the disposer back into the dishwasher.
directions and adjust the feet as required.
Lengthening a Discharge Hose 쑺
1 2
If the discharge hose has to be modified to fit onto Clamp the rubber disposer adapter to the end
the disposer port, first insert a 4"-long piece of 1⁄2" copper of the copper tubing nipple. Then tighten the hose
tubing into the hose and hold it in place with a hose clamp. clamp securely.
This provides a nipple for the rubber adapter that fits onto
the disposer.
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11 12
Discharge tube
from dishwasher
Supply
Fitting tube
Compression nut
Drain
Push the adapter over the disposer’s discharge nipple Adjust the L-fitting on the dishwasher’s water inlet valve
and tighten it in place with a hose clamp. If you don’t have until it points directly toward the water supply tubing. Then
a disposer, this discharge hose can be clamped directly to lubricate the threads slightly with a drop of dishwashing liquid
a modified sink tailpiece that’s installed below a standard and tighten the tubing’s compression nut onto the fitting. Use
sink strainer. an adjustable wrench and turn the nut clockwise.
13 14
Complete the electrical connections by tightening the Install the access panel, usually by hooking it on a couple of
connector’s clamp on the cable and then join the power wires prongs just below the dishwasher’s door. Install the screws (if any)
to the fixture wires with wire connectors. Attach the ground that hold it in place, and turn on the water and power supplies.
wire (or wires) to the grounding screw on the box, and replace Replace the toe-kick panel at the bottom of the dishwasher.
the cover.
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Food Disposers
F ood disposers are standard equipment in the
modern home, and most of us have come to
depend on them to macerate our plate leavings and
Disposers are hardwired to a switch mounted in
an electrical box in the wall above the countertop. If
your kitchen is not equipped for this, consult a wiring
crumbs so they can exit the house along with waste guide or hire an electrician. The actual electrical
water from the sink drain. If your existing disposer hookup of the appliance is quite simple (you only have
needs replacing, you’ll find that the job is relatively to join two wires) but do hire an electrician if you are
simple, especially if you select a replacement not comfortable with the job.
appliance that is the same model as the old one.
In that case, you can probably reuse the existing
mounting assembly, drain sleeve, and drain plumbing. Tools & Materials 쑺
Most food disposers are classified as “continuous
feed” because they can only operate when an ON/ Screwdriver Putty knife
OFF switch on the wall is being actively held down. Channel-type pliers Mineral spirits
Let go of the switch, and the disposer stops. Each Spud wrench (optional) Plumber’s putty
appliance has a power rating between 1⁄3 and 1 HP Hammer Wire caps
(horsepower). More powerful models bog down less Hacksaw or tubing cutter Hose clamps
under load and the motors last longer because they Kitchen drain supplies Threaded Y-fitting
don’t have to work as hard. They are also costlier. Drain auger Electrical tape
Dedicated GFI-
protected power
Drain outlet
Y-fitting Armored
cable
Sink P-trap
Disposer P-trap
A properly functioning food disposer that’s used correctly can actually help reduce clogs by ensuring that large bits of organic
matter don’t get into the drain system by accident. Many plumbers suggest using separate P-traps for the disposer and the drain
outlet tube as shown here.
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Upper Sink
mounting sleeve
ring
Flange
Mounting Sleeve
screw
Backup
ring
Fiber
Lower gasket
mounting
ring
Dishwasher
nipple
Backup
ring
Upper
Grinding mounting
Sound ring
insulation ring
Snap ring
The disposer is attached directly to the sink sleeve, which
comes with the disposer and replaces the standard sink strainer. A
snap ring fits into a groove around the sleeve of the strainer body to
prevent the upper mounting ring and backup ring from sliding down
while the upper mounting ring is tightened against the backup ring
with mounting screws. A fiber gasket seals the connection from
beneath the sink.
Discharge
opening
Impellers
Drain
chamber
Baffle
Shown cutaway Motor
A food disposer grinds food waste so it can be flushed
away through the sink drain system. A quality disposer has
a 1⁄2 –horsepower, self-reversing motor that will not jam.
Other features to look for include foam sound insulation, a
grinding ring, and overload protection that allow the motor to Waste-T Waste-T with baffle
be reset if it overheats. Better food disposers have a 5-year
manufacturer's warranty. Kitchen and drain tees are required to have a baffle if the tee
is connected to a dishwasher or disposer. The baffle is intended to
prevent discharge from finding its way up the drain and into the
sink. However, the baffle also reduces the drain flow capacity by
half, which can cause the dishwasher or disposer to back up. You
cannot, by most codes, simply replace the tee with another that
has no baffle. The safest way to get around the problem is to run
separate drains and traps to a Y-fitting at the trap arm (as shown
on previous page).
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■ How to Install a Food Disposer
1 Tip 쑺
Remove the old disposer if you have one. You’ll need to
disconnect the drain pipes and traps first. If your old disposer
has a special wrench for the mounting lugs, use it to loosen
the lugs. Otherwise, use a screwdriver. If you do not have Alternate: If you are installing a disposer in a sink
a helper, place a solid object directly beneath the disposer that did not previously have one, remove the old
to support it before you begin removal. Important: Shut off sink strainer and drain tailpiece. Scrape up any old
electrical power at the main service panel before you begin plumbers putty and clean the sink thoroughly around
removal. Disconnect the wire leads, cap them, and stuff them the drain opening with mineral spirits.
into the electrical box.
2 3
Upper
mounting
ring
Lower mounting ring
Snap ring
Clear the drain lines all the way to the branch drain before Disassemble the mounting assembly and then separate
you begin the new installation. Remove the trap and trap the upper and lower mounting rings and the backup ring.
arm first. Also remove the snap ring from the sink sleeve. See photo,
previous page.
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4 5
Fiber gasket
Sink
sleeve
Backup ring
Sink sleeve
Press the flange of the sink sleeve for your new disposer Slip the fiber gasket and then the backup ring onto the sink
into a thin coil of plumber’s putty that you have laid around sleeve, working from inside the sink base cabinet. Make sure
the perimeter of the drain opening. The sleeve should be the backup ring is oriented the same way it was before you
well-seated in the coil. disassembled the mounting assembly.
6 7
Insert the upper mounting ring onto the sleeve with the Make electrical connections before you mount the disposer
slotted ends of the screws facing away from the backup ring unit on the mounting assembly. Shut off the power at the service
so you can access them. Then, holding all three parts at the panel if you have turned it back on. Remove the access plate
top of the sleeve, slide the snap ring onto the sleeve until it from the disposer. Attach the white and black feeder wires from
snaps into the groove. Tighten the three mounting screws on the electrical box to the white and black wires (respectively)
the upper mounting ring until the tips press firmly against the inside the disposer. Twist a small wire cap onto each connection
backup ring (inset photo). It is the tension created by these and wrap it with electrical tape for good measure. Also attach
screws that keeps the disposer steady and minimizes vibrating. the green ground wire from the box to the grounding terminal
on your disposer.
(continued)
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8 9
Knock out the plug in the disposer port if you will be Hang the disposer from the mounting ring attached to
connecting your dishwasher to the disposer. If you have the sink sleeve. To hang it, simply lift it up and position the unit
no dishwasher, leave the plug in. Insert a large flathead so the three mounting ears are underneath the three mounting
screwdriver into the port opening and rap it with a mallet. screws and then spin the unit so all three ears fit into the
Retrieve the knock plug from inside the disposer canister. mounting assembly. Wait until after the plumbing hookups
have been made to lock the unit in place.
10 11
Drain stubout
Y-fitting
Attach the discharge tube to the disposer according to the Attach a Y-fitting at the drain stubout. The Y-fitting should
manufacturer’s instructions. It is important to get a very good be sized to accept a drain line from the disposer and another
seal here, or the disposer will leak. Go ahead and spin the from the sink. Adjust the sink drain plumbing as needed to get
disposer if it helps you access the discharge port. from the sink P-trap to one opening of the Y.
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12 13
Outlet from sink
Y-fitting
Trap arm
P-trap
P-trap
Install a trap arm for the disposer in the open port of Spin the disposer so the end of the discharge tube is lined
the Y-fitting at the wall stubout. Then, attach a P-trap or a up over the open end of the P-trap and confirm that they will
combination of a tube extension and a P-trap so the low fit together correctly. If the discharge tube extends down too
end of the trap will align with the bottom of the disposer far, mark a line on it at the top of the P-trap and cut through
discharge tube. the line with a hacksaw. If the tube is too short, attach an
extension with a slip joint. You may need to further shorten the
discharge tube first to create enough room for the slip joint on
the extension. Slide a slip nut and beveled compression washer
onto the discharge tube and attach the tube to the P-trap.
14 Dishwasher
discharge tube 15
Connect the dishwasher discharge tube to the inlet port Lock the disposer into position on the mounting ring
located at the top of the disposer unit. This may require a assembly once you have tested to make sure it is functioning
dishwasher hookup kit (see page 30). correctly and without leaks. Lock it by turning one of the
mounting lugs with a screwdriver until it makes contact with
the locking notch.
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Water Heaters
R eplacing a water heater is a relatively easy DIY
plumbing task as long as it is a like-for-like
replacement. In an ideal situation, you’d replace the
old unit with one of the exact same size and make,
and thereby avoid having to move any gas, water,
or electrical lines. But if you choose to upgrade or
downgrade in size, or perhaps replace an old electric
water heater with a gas water heater that costs less to
run, you’ll find that relocating the necessary lines isn’t
that difficult.
It is a commonly held belief that a water heater
should last around 10 years. The longevity depends
on many factors, including initial quality, usage levels,
maintenance diligence, and other miscellaneous
factors such as hardness of water. While it is
everyone’s goal to get as much use out of our major
appliances as possible, it is also undeniable that the
best time to replace a water heater is before it leaks
and fills your basement with water. It’s a bit of a
gamble, but once your old heater starts showing signs
of wear and perhaps even acting up a bit, go ahead
and make the change.
Water heaters for primary duty in residences range
in size from 30 gallons to 65 gallons. For a family of
four, a 40- or 50-gallon model should be adequate.
While you don’t want to run out of hot water every
morning, you also don’t want to pay to heat more
water than you use. Base your choice on how well
your current water heater is meeting your demand.
Tools & Materials 쑺
Tubing cutter Garden hose
Hacksaw Drain pan
Pipe wrenches (2) Pipe thread lubricant
Adjustable wrench Vent pipe elbow
Channel-type pliers Gas supply pipe
Screwdriver and fittings
MAPP torch kit Copper
Appliance dolly soldering supplies
Water heater Leak detector solution
T & P relief valve Ball-type water Water heaters typically last for at least 10 years, but once
Discharge tube shutoff valve they start to show signs of aging, it’s a good idea to replace
them with a new, more efficient appliance.
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Fuel type Tank capacity
Working
pressure
Installation
clearances
Insulation
R-value
The nameplate on the side of a water heater lists tank Use armored cable or wires housed in metal conduit to
capacity, insulation R-value, and working pressure (pounds per bring electrical power to electric water heaters. The armored
square inch). More efficient water heaters have an insulation cable or conduit should enter the top of the unit through a
R-value of 7 or higher. The nameplate for an electric water heater conduit clamp.
includes the voltage and the wattage capacity of the heating
elements and thermostats. Water heaters also have a yellow
energy guide label that lists typical yearly operating costs.
Union
fitting Flexible
copper gas
line
Nipple
Flare
T-fitting nut
Nipple
Nipple
Drip leg
Cap
Use threaded black gas pipe to make the gas connection If your house has soft copper gas supply lines, use a
at the water heater. Other connectors, including flexible copper flare fitting to connect an additional threaded nipple from
or stainless steel connectors, are not allowed by some codes the black pipe assembly that connects to the water heater
and are not as sturdy. The black pipe may be supplied by other regulator. If you have black pipe supply lines, use a union
pipe materials, such as soft copper. The basic construction fitting like the one in the previous photo.
involves three 6" threaded nipples, a T-fitting, a cap, and a
union to connect to the supply line.
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Gas Water Heater Electric Water Heater
Gas water heater parts include: Electric water heater parts can include:
(A) Flue (A) Cold water inlet pipe
(B) Hot water outlet (B) Cold water inlet valve
(C) Tank (C) Insulation
(D) Anode rod (D) Draincock
(E) Gas burner (E) Hot water outlet pipe
(F) Cold water inlet pipe (F) Pressure-relief valve
(G) Pressure-relief valve (G) Power cable
(H) Dip tube (H) High temperature thermostat
(I) Thermostat (I) Upper heating element
(J) Thermocouple (J) Bracket
(K) Lower heating thermostat
(L) Lower heating element
A (M) Gasket
B A E
B F
F
G
G
H
C
C
H
I
D J
I
D
E
K
J
L
M
Gas water heaters operate on either propane or natural gas Electric water heaters require 240-volt service, which might
and are generally very economical to run. They do cost a bit overload your service panel if you are replacing a gas heater
more than electric heaters up front. The following installation with an electric model. Their primary advantage is that they
features a gas water heater. Check with your local building are cheaper to purchase (but not to operate) and they do not
department to find out if homeowners are allowed to install require that you make gas connections.
gas appliances in your municipality.
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■ How to Install a Gas Water Heater
1 2
Shut off the gas supply at the stopcock installed in the gas Drain the water from the old heater by hooking a garden
line closest to the water heater. The handle of the stopcock hose up to the sillcock drain and running it to a floor drain. If
should be perpendicular to the gas supply pipe. you don't have a floor drain, drain the water into buckets. For
your personal safety, wait until the water heater has been shut
off for a couple of hours before draining it.
3 4
Disconnect the gas supply from the water heater. To do Disconnect the vent pipe from the draft hood by
so, loosen the flare fitting with two wrenches or pliers in a soft withdrawing the sheet metal screws connecting the parts. Also
copper supply line or loosen the union fitting with two pipe remove vent pipes up to and including the elbow so you may
wrenches for black pipe supply lines (inset photo). inspect them for corrosion buildup and replace if needed.
(continued)
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5 Tip 쑺
Prepare the new water heater for installation.
Before you put the water heater in place, add a T & P
relief valve at the valve opening. Make sure to read
the manufacturer’s instructions and purchase the
recommended valve type. Lubricate the threads and
Cut the water supply lines. Prior to cutting, shut off the cold tighten the valve into the valve opening with a pipe
water supply either at the stop valve near the heater or at the wrench. Note: The water heater shown in this sequence
water meter. Inspect the shutoff valve. If it is not a ball-type valve came with a T & P relief valve that’s preinstalled.
in new condition, replace it with a ball valve.
6 7
Drip pan
Hose
bib
Remove the old water heater and dispose of it properly. Position the unit in the installation area. If you have
Most trash collection companies will haul it away for $20 or flooring you wish to protect from leaks, set the unit on a drip
$30. Don’t simply leave it out at the curb unless you know that pan (available where water heater accessories are sold).
is allowed by your municipal waste collection department. A The shallow pans feature a hose bib so you can run a drain
two-wheel truck or appliance dolly is a big help here. Water line from the pan to a floor drain. If the water heater is not
heaters usually weigh around 150 pounds. level, level it by shimming under the bottom with a metal
or composite shim. Note that you’ll need to shift the unit
around a bit to have clearance for installing the water
supply connectors (step 13).
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8 9
Attach a discharge tube to the T & P relief valve. You Fabricate water connectors from lengths of copper
may use either copper pipe or CPVC drain pipe. Cut the tube tubing, threaded copper adaptors, and plastic-lined galvanized
so the free end is 6" above the floor. If you have floorcoverings threaded nipples. Plastic-lined nipples (inset photo) reduce the
you wish to protect, add a 90-degree elbow and a copper drain corrosion that can occur when you join two dissimilar metals.
tube that leads from the discharge tube to a floor drain. Size the connector assemblies so they will end up just short of
the cut copper supply tubing when the connectors are inserted
into the water heater ports.
10 11
Install the connectors in the cold water inlet port (make Join the connectors to the supply tubes with slip-fitting
sure you use the blue-coded lined nipple) and the hot outlet copper repair couplings. Be sure to clean and prime the
port (red-coded nipple) on top of the water heater. Lubricate parts first.
the nipple threads and tighten with channel-type pliers.
Slip a copper tubing repair coupling over each connector
and reposition the unit so the supply pipes and connector
tops align.
(continued)
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13 14
Draft hood
Reassemble the vent with a new elbow fitting (if your Attach the vertical leg of the vent line to the draft hood
old one needed replacement, see step 4, page 43). Cut the with 3⁄8" sheet metal screws.
duct that drops down from the elbow so it will fit neatly over
the top flange of the draft hood.
15 16
Install the parts for the black pipe gas connector assembly Connect the gas supply line to the open end of the gas
(see photo page 41). Use pipe dope to lubricate all joints. connector. Use a union fitting for black gas pipe connections
Attach a T-fitting to one end of a 3" nipple first and attach the and a flare fitting for copper supply connections. See pages
other end of the nipple into the female-threaded regulator 41 to 43 for more information on making these connections.
port. Attach a cap to another 6" nipple and then thread the
other end into the bottom opening of the T-fitting to form a
drip leg. Install a third nipple in the top opening of the T-fitting.
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17 18
Test the connections. Turn on the gas supply and test the Light the pilot. This is usually a multi-step process that varies
gas connections with testing solution (see page 315). Before among manufacturers, but all new water heaters will have
turning on the water supply, make sure the tank drain valve is pilot-lighting instructions printed on a label near the water
closed. Allow the tank to fill with water and then turn on a hot heater controls. Adjust the water temperature setting.
water faucet until water comes out (the water won’t be hot
yet, of course). Visually check all plumbing joints for leaks.
Tip: Hooking Up Electric Water Heaters 쑺
The fuel supply connection is the only part of installing Temperature adjustments on electric water heaters are
an electric water heater that differs from installing a gas made by tightening or loosening a thermostat adjustment
heater, except that electric heaters do not require a vent. screw located near the heating element. Always shut off
The feeder wires (240 volts) are twisted together with power to the unit before making adjustment. In this photo
mating wires in the access panel located at the top of you can see how close the live terminals for the heating
the unit. element are to the thermostat.
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Bathroom Faucets
O ne-piece faucets, with either one or two
handles, are the most popular fixtures for
bathroom installations.
Tools & Materials 쑺
“Widespread” faucets with separate spout Hacksaw or tin snips Teflon tape
and handles are being installed with increasing Channel-type pliers Faucet kit
frequency, however. Because the handles are Pliers Pipe joint compound
connected to the spout with flex tubes that can Basin wrench Flexible supply tubes
be 18" or longer, widespread faucets can be arranged Adjustable wrench Heat-proof grease
in many ways. Screwdriver Loctite basin
Plumber’s putty
Bathroom sink faucets come in
two basic styles: the widespread with
independent handles and spout (top);
and the single-body, deck-mounted
version (bottom).
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■ Bathroom Faucet & Drain Hookups
Handle Pop-up stopper lift rod
Index screw
caps Spout
Handle
Spout
Handles
Aerator
Aerator Tailpiece
Tailpiece
Lift rod 1
⁄ 2" coupling
nuts
Spout
tailpiece Clevis
Faucet
valves
T-fitting Supply
risers Pivot
rod
Flex
tube
Supply Stop
risers valves
Widespread lavatory faucets have valves that are independent from the spout so Single-body lavatory faucets have
they can be configured however you choose, provided that your flex tube connectors both valves and the spout permanently
are long enough to span the distance. affixed to the faucet body. They do not
offer flexibility in configurations, but
they are very simple to install.
Stopper Flange Surface of
sink basin
Hollow
channel for
Pop-up overflow
stopper water
body
Underside
Clevis
Lock of sink strap
nut
Pivot ball
Nylon gasket
washer
Pivot-ball
and rod
Clevis
strap
Retaining
Drain Spring clip
nut
tailpiece on the pivot
rod
The pop-up stopper fits into the drain opening so the The linkage that connects the pop-up stopper to the pop-up
stopper will close tightly against the drain flange when the handle fits into a male-threaded port in the drain tailpiece.
pop-up handle is lifted up. Occasionally the linkage will require adjustment or replacement.
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■ How to Install a Widespread Faucet
Spout shank
1 Spout shank
2
Sink deck
Plumber’s putty
Retainer/
spacer
Mounting nut
Sink deck seen in
cutaway for clarity
Insert the shank of the faucet spout through one of the In addition to mounting nuts, many spout valves for
holes in the sink deck (usually the center hole but you can widespread faucets have an open-retainer fitting that goes
offset it in one of the end holes if you prefer). If the faucet is between the underside of the deck and the mounting nut.
not equipped with seals or O-rings for the spout and handles, Others have only a mounting nut. In either case, tighten the
pack plumber’s putty on the undersides before inserting the mounting nut with pliers or a basin wrench to secure the spout
valves into the deck. Note: If you are installing the widespread valve. You may need a helper to keep the spout centered and
faucet in a new sink deck, drill three holes of the size facing forward.
suggested by the faucet manufacturer.
3 Helping hand 4
Temporary
clip
Plumber’s
putty
Mounting Valve
ring
Valve
(cold supply) Spout
shank
Mount the valves to the deck using whichever method the From below, thread the mounting nuts that secure the valves
manufacturer specifies (it varies quite a bit). In the model seen to the sink deck. Make sure the cold water valve (usually has
here, a mounting ring is positioned over the deck hole (with a blue cartridge inside) is in the right-side hole (from the front)
plumber’s putty seal) and the valve is inserted from below. and the hot water valve (red cartridge) is in the left hole. Install
A clip snaps onto the valve from above to hold it in place both valves.
temporarily (you’ll want a helper for this).
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5 6
Water
Water
outlet T-fitting
outlet
(cold)
(hot)
Water
inlet
(spout)
Once you’ve started the nut on the threaded valve shank, Attach the flexible supply tubes (supplied with the faucet)
secure the valve with a basin wrench, squeezing the lugs to the water outlets on the valves. Some twist onto the outlets,
where the valve fits against the deck. Use an adjustable but others (like the ones above) click into place. The supply
wrench to finish tightening the lock nut onto the valve. The hoses meet in a T-fitting that is attached to the water inlet on
valves should be oriented so the water outlets are aimed at the spout.
the inlet on the spout shank.
7 8 Special hex wrench
Spout
(supplied with faucet)
Teflon Twist-on
tape fitting
Water supply risers
Spout shank
Attach flexible braided-metal supply risers to the water Attach the spout. The model shown here comes with a
stop valves and then attach the tubes to the inlet port on each special hex wrench that is threaded through the hole in the
valve (usually with Teflon tape and a twist-on fitting at the valve spout where the lift rod for the pop-up drain will be located.
end of the supply riser). Once the spout is seated cleanly on the spout shank, you
tighten the hex wrench to secure the spout. Different faucets
will use other methods to secure the spout to the shank.
(continued)
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9 Lift rod 10
Lift rod
Clevis screw
Clevis
screw
housing Clevis strap
Clevis
strap
If your sink did not have a pop-up stopper, you’ll need Attach the clevis strap to the pivot rod that enters the
to replace the sink drain tailpiece with a pop-up stopper body pop-up drain body, and adjust the position of the strap so
(often supplied with the faucet). See page 243. Insert the lift it raises and lowers properly when the lift rod is pulled
rod through the hole in the back of the spout and, from below, up. Tighten the clevis screw at this point. It’s hard to fit a
thread the pivot rod through the housing for the clevis screw. screwdriver in here, so you may need to use a wrench or pliers.
11 12
Attach the faucet handles to the valves using whichever Turn on the water supply and test the faucet. Remove
method is required by the faucet manufacturer. Most faucets the faucet aerator so any debris in the lines can clear
are designed with registration methods to ensure that the the spout.
handles are symmetrical and oriented in an ergonomic way
once you secure them to the valves.
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Variation: How to Install a Single-body Faucet 쑺
Most faucets come with a plastic or
1 foam gasket to seal the bottom of the
faucet to the sink deck. These gaskets
will not always form a watertight seal. If
you want to ensure no splash water gets
below the sink, discard the seal and press
a ring of plumber’s putty into the sealant
groove built into the underside of the
faucet body.
Clevis screw
2 3
Coupling nut
Pivot rod
Flexible sink
supply riser
Insert the faucet tailpieces through the holes in the Slide the lift rod of the new faucet into its hole
sink. From below, thread washers and mounting nuts over behind the spout. Thread it into the clevis past the clevis
the tailpieces, then tighten the mounting nuts with a basin screw. Push the pivot rod all the way down so the stopper
wrench until snug. Put a dab of pipe joint compound on is open. With the lift rod also all the way down, tighten the
the threads of the stop valves and thread the metal nuts clevis to the lift rod.
of the flexible supply risers to these. Wrench tighten about
a half-turn past hand tight. Overtightening these nuts will
strip the threads. Now tighten the coupling nuts to the
faucet tailpieces with a basin wrench.
4 5
Grease the fluted valve stems with heatproof grease, Unscrew the aerator from the end of the spout. Turn
then put the handles in place. Put a drop of Loctite on the hot and cold water taps on full. Turn the water back on
each handle screw before tightening it on. (This will keep at the stop valves and flush out the faucet for a couple of
your handles from coming loose.) Cover each handle minutes before turning off the water at the faucet. Check
screw with the appropriate index cap—Hot or Cold. the riser connections for drips. Tighten a compression nut
only until the drip stops.
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■ How to Install a Pop-up Drain
Lock nuts
1 Pop-up
drain 2 Clevis
Bottom of
sink
tailpiece
Spring Stopper
clip body
Cap
Trap
arm
Ball-and-pivot
rod
Trap
J-bend
Put a basin under the trap to catch water. Loosen the Unscrew the cap holding the ball-and-pivot rod in the
nuts at the outlet and inlet to the trap J-bend by hand or with pop-up body and withdraw the ball. Compress the spring clip
channel-type pliers and remove the bend. The trap will slide off on the clevis and withdraw the pivot rod from the clevis.
the pop-up body tailpiece when the nuts are loose. Keep track
of washers and nuts and their up/down orientation by leaving
them on the tubes.
3 4
Wrap
tape in
clockwise
direction
Stopper
body
Stopper
Flange
Remove the pop-up stopper. Then, from below, remove Clean the drain opening above and below, and then thread
the lock nut on the stopper body. If needed, keep the flange the locknut all the way down the new pop-up body, followed
from turning by inserting a large screwdriver in the drain from by the flat washer and the rubber gasket (beveled side up).
the top. Thrust the stopper body up through the hole to free Wrap three layers of Teflon tape clockwise onto the top of the
the flange from the basin, and then remove the flange and the threaded body. Make a 1⁄2"-dia. snake from plumber’s putty,
stopper body. form it into a ring, and stick the ring underneath the drain
flange.
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5 6
Stopper in drain
Plumber’s putty
From below, face the pivot rod opening directly back toward Drop the pop-up stopper into the drain hole so the hole
the middle of the faucet and pull the body straight down to at the bottom of its post is closest to the back of the sink. Put
seat the flange. Thread the locknut/washer assembly up under the beveled nylon washer into the opening in the back of the
the sink, then fully tighten the locknut with channel-type pliers. pop-up body with the bevel facing back.
Do not twist the flange in the process, as this can break the
putty seal. Clean off the squeezeout of plumber’s putty from
around the flange.
Clevis
7 Adjust so
8
clevis is
vertical
Clevis screw
Put the cap behind the ball on the pivot rod as shown. Loosen the clevis screw holding the clevis to the lift rod.
Sandwich a hole in the clevis with the spring clip and thread Push the pivot rod all the way down (which fully opens the
the long end of the pivot rod through the clip and clevis. Put pop-up stopper). With the lift rod also all the way down, tighten
the ball end of the pivot rod into the pop-up body opening and the clevis screw to the rod. If the clevis runs into the top of the
into the hole in the the stopper stem. Screw the cap on to the trap, cut it short with your hacksaw or tin snips. Reassemble
pop-up body over the ball. the J-bend trap.
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Shower Kits
T he fastest and easiest way to create a new shower
in your bathroom is to frame in the stall area with
lumber and wallboard and then install a shower enclosure
Tools & Materials 쑺
kit. Typically consisting of three fiberglass or plastic walls, Tape measure Masking tape
these enclosure kits snap together at the corners and Pencil Slicone caulk
nestle inside the flanges of the shower pan to create nearly Hammer and caulk gun
foolproof mechanical seals. Often, the walls are formed Carpenter’s square Shower enclosure kit
with shelves, soap holders, and other conveniences. Screwdrivers Shower door
If you are on a tight budget, you can find Pipe wrench Showerhead
extremely inexpensive enclosure kits to keep costs Level Faucet
down. You can even create your own custom enclosure Strap wrench Plumbing supplies
using waterproof beadboard panels and snap-together Adjustable wrench Panel adhesive
connectors. Or, you can invest in a higher grade kit Pliers Spud wrench
made from thicker material that will last much longer. Drill/driver Large-head roofing nails
Some kits are sold with the receptor (and perhaps even Center punch Jigsaw
the door) included. The kit shown here is designed to File Duct tape
be attached directly to wall studs, but others require a Utility knife Miter box
backer wall for support. The panels are attached to the Hacksaw
backer with high-tack panel adhesive.
A paneled shower surround is
inexpensive and easy to install. Designed
for alcove installations, they often
are sold with matching shower pans
(called receptors).
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■ How to Install a Shower Enclosure
1 2
Sill plate
Mark out the location of the shower, including any new If you are adding a wall to create the alcove, lay out
walls, on the floor and walls. Most kits can be installed over the locations for the studs and plumbing on the new wood
wallboard, but you can usually achieve a more professional sill plate. Also lay out the stud locations on the cap plate
looking wall finish if you remove the wallcovering and floor that will be attached to the ceiling. Refer to the enclosure
covering in the installation area. Dispose of the materials kit instructions for exact locations and dimensions of studs.
immediately and thoroughly clean the area. Attach the sill plate to the floor with deck screws and panel
adhesive, making sure it is square to the back wall and the
correct distance from the side wall.
3 4
New wall stud
Align a straight 2 × 4 right next to the sill plate and make Install the 2 × 4 studs at the outlined locations. Check with
a mark on the ceiling. Use a level to extend that line directly a level to make sure each stud is plumb, and then attach them
above the sill plate. Attach the cap plate at that point. by driving deck screws toenail style into the sill plate and
cap plate.
(continued)
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5 6
Drain location
Cut an access hole in the floor for the drain, according Install a drain pipe and branch line and then trim the
to the installation manual instructions. Drill openings in the drain pipe flush with the floor. If you are not experienced with
sill plate of the wet wall (the new wall in this project) for the plumbing, hire a plumber to install the new drain line.
supply pipes, also according to the instructions.
7 Faucet body
8
Cross brace
Bull valves
Supply riser
Install new supply risers as directed in the instruction If the supply plumbing is located in a wall (old or new)
manual (again, have a plumber do this if necessary). Also install that is accessible from the non-shower side, install framing for
cross braces between the studs in the wet wall for mounting a removable access panel.
the faucet body and shower arm.
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9
Attach the drain tailpiece that came with your receptor Option: To stabilize the receptor, especially if the floor is
to the underside of the unit, following the manufacturer’s uneven, pour or trowel a layer of thinset mortar into the
instructions precisely. Here, an adjustable spud wrench is installation area, taking care to keep the mortar out of the
being used to tighten the tailpiece. drain access hole. Do not apply mortar in areas where the
receptor has feet that are intended to make full contact with
the floor.
10 11
Set the receptor in place, check to make sure it is level, Lay out the locations for the valve hole or holes in the
and shim it if necessary. Secure the receptor with large-head end wall panel that will be installed on the wet wall. Check
roofing nails driven into the wall stud so the heads pin the your installation instructions. Some kits come with a template
flange against the stud. Do not overdrive the nails. marked on the packaging carton. Cut the access hole with
a hole saw and drill or with a jigsaw and fine-tooth blade.
If using a jigsaw, orient the panel so the good surface is
facing down.
(continued)
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12 13
Clip
connectors
Position the back wall so there is a slight gap (about 1⁄32") Remove the end wall so you can prepare the installation
between the bottom of the panel and the rim of the receptor— area for them. If your kit recommends panel adhesive, apply it
set a few small spacers on the rim if need be. Tack a pair of to the wall or studs. In the kit shown here, only a small bead of
roofing nails above the top of the back panel to hold it in place silicone sealant on the receptor flange is required.
(or, use duct tape). Position both end walls and test the fits. Make
clip connections between panels (inset) if your kit uses them.
14 15
Reinstall the end panels, permanently clipping them to the Once the panels are positioned correctly and snapped
back panel according to the kit manufacturer’s instructions. together, fasten them to the wall studs. If the panels have
Make sure the front edges of the end panels are flush with the predrilled nail holes, drive roofing nails through them at each
front of the receptor. stud at the panel tops and every 4" to 6" along vertical surfaces.
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16 17
Install wallcovering material above the enclosure panels Finish the walls and then caulk between the enclosure
and anywhere else it is needed. Use moisture-resistant panels and the wallcoverings with silicone caulk.
materials, and maintain a gap of 1⁄4" between the shoulders
of the top panel flanges and the wallcovering.
18 19
Access
panel
Install the faucet handles and escutcheon and caulk Make an access panel and attach it at the framed opening
around the escutcheon plate. Install the shower arm created in step 8. A piece of 1⁄4" plywood framed with mitered
escutcheon and showerhead. case molding and painted to match the wall is one idea for
access panel covers.
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■ How to Install a Hinged Shower Door
1 2
Measure the width of the shower opening. If the walls of Identify which side jamb will be the hinge jamb and
the shower slope inward slightly before meeting the base, take which will be the strike jamb according to the direction
your measurement from a higher point at the full width of the you want your hinged door to swing—an outward swing is
opening so you don’t cut the door base too short. Cut the base preferred. Prepare the jambs for installation as directed in
piece to fit using a hacksaw and a miter box. File the cut ends your instructions.
if necessary to deburr them.
3 4
Place the base jamb on the curb of the shower base. If Remove the bottom track and prepare the shower
the joint where the wall meets the curb is sloped, you’ll need base curb for installation of the base track, following the
to trim the corners of the base piece to follow the profile. Place manufacturer’s directions. Permanently install the bottom
a jamb carefully onto the base and plumb it with a level. Then, track. Bottom tracks (not all doors have them) are usually
mark a drilling point by tapping a centerpunch in the middle of attached to the side jambs or held in place with adhesive.
each nail hole in each jamb. Remove the jambs, drill pilot holes, Never use fasteners to secure them to curb.
and then attach the jambs with the provided screws.
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5 6
Working on the floor or another flat surface, attach the Attach the hinge to the door panel, according to the
door hinge to the hinge jamb, if required. In most systems, manufacturer’s instructions. Attach any cap fitting that keeps
the hinge is fitted over the hinge jamb after you attach it to water out of the jamb.
the wall.
7 8
Fit the hinge jamb over the side jamb and adjust it as Install the magnetic strike plate and any remaining caps
directed in your instruction manual. Once the clearances are or accessories such as towel rods. Also attach the sweep that
correct, fasten the jambs to hang the door. seals the passage, if provided.
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Custom Shower Bases
B uilding a custom-tiled shower base lets you choose
the shape and size of your shower rather than
having its dimensions dictated by available products.
Tools & Materials 쑺
Building the base is quite simple, though it does require Tape measure 16d galvanized
time and some knowledge of basic masonry techniques Circular saw common nails
because the base is formed primarily using mortar. What Hammer 15# building paper
you get for your time and trouble can be spectacular. Utility knife 3-piece shower drain
Before designing a shower base, contact your local Stapler PVC primer & cement
building department regarding code restrictions and 2-ft. level Galvanized finish nails
to secure the necessary permits. Most codes require Mortar mixing box Galvanized metal lath
water controls to be accessible from outside the Trowel Thick-bed floor mortar
shower and describe acceptable door positions and Wood float Latex mortar additive
operation. Requirements like these influence the size Felt-tip marker CPE waterproof
and position of the base. Ratchet wrench membrane &
Choosing the tile before finalizing the design Expandable stopper preformed dam
lets you size the base to require mostly or only full Drill corners
tiles. Consider using small tile and gradate the color Tin snips CPE membrane
from top to bottom or in a sweep across the walls. Torpedo level solvent glue
Or, use trim tile and listellos on the walls to create an Tools & materials for CPE membrane
interesting focal point. installing tile sealant
Whatever tile you choose, remember to seal the 2 × 4 and 2 × 10 Cementboard &
grout in your new shower and to maintain it carefully framing lumber materials
over the years. Water-resistant grout protects the Thinset mortar Utility knife
structure of the shower and prolongs its useful life. Straightedge
Choosing a custom shower base gives you a myriad of options for the shape and size of your shower.
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■ Cross-Section of a Shower Pan
Top of CPE membrane
No fasteners below
top of CPE membrane
Mortar
Metal lath
Mortar
CPE membrane
Mortar
Subfloor
Metal lath
Building paper
3-piece
drain Tile
spacers
A custom shower pan is a fairly intricate, multi-layed construction, but choosing to build one gives you the ultimate
design flexibility.
Tips for Building a Custom Shower Base 쑺
A custom-tiled shower base is built in three layers to ensure proper water drainage: the pre pan, the shower pan, and
the shower floor. A mortar pre pan is first built on top of the subfloor, establishing a slope toward the drain of 1⁄4" for every
12" of shower floor. Next, a waterproof chlorinated polyethylene (CPE) membrane forms the shower pan, providing a
watertight seal for the shower base. Finally, a second mortar bed reinforced with wire mesh is installed for the shower
floor, providing a surface for tile installation. If water penetrates the tiled shower floor, the shower pan and sloped pre pan
will direct it to the weep holes of the 3-piece drain.
One of the most important steps in building a custom-tiled shower base is testing the shower pan after installation.
This allows you to locate and fix any leaks to prevent costly damage.
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■ How to Build a Custom-tiled Shower Base
1 2
Remove building materials to expose subfloor and stud Staple 15# building paper to the subfloor of the shower
walls. Cut three 2 × 4s for the curb and fasten them to the base. Disassemble the 3-piece shower drain and glue the
floor joists and the studs at the shower threshold with 16d bottom piece to the drain pipe with PVC cement. Partially
galvanized common nails. Also cut 2 × 10 lumber to size and screw the drain bolts into the drain piece, and stuff a rag into
install in the stud bays around the perimeter of the shower the drain pipe to prevent mortar from falling into the drain.
base. Install (or have installed) drain and supply plumbing.
3 4
Mark the height of the bottom drain piece on the wall Staple galvanized metal lath over the building paper; cut a
farthest from the center of the drain. Measure from the center hole in the lath 1⁄2" from the drain. Mix thinset mortar to a fairly
of the drain straight across to that wall, then raise the height dry consistency, using a latex additive for strength; mortar
mark 1⁄4" for every 12" of shower floor to slope the pre pan should hold its shape when squeezed (inset). Trowel the mortar
toward the drain. Trace a reference line at the height mark onto the subfloor, building the pre pan from the flange of the
around the perimeter of the entire alcove, using a level. drain piece to the height line on the perimeter of the walls.
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5 6
Continue using the trowel to form Measure the dimensions of the shower floor, and mark it out on a sheet of CPE
the pre pan, checking the slope using waterproof membrane, using a felt-tipped marker. From the floor outline, measure
a level and filling any low spots with out and mark an additional 8" for each wall and 16" for the curb end. Cut the
mortar. Finish the surface of the pre membrane to size, using a utility knife and straightedge. Be careful to cut on a clean,
pan with a wood float until it is even smooth surface to prevent puncturing the membrane. Lay the membrane onto the
and smooth. Allow the mortar to shower pan.
cure overnight.
7 8
Measure to find the exact location of the drain and mark Apply CPE sealant around the drain. Fold the membrane
it on the membrane, outlining the outer diameter of the drain along the floor outline. Set the membrane over the pre
flange. Cut a circular piece of CPE membrane roughly 2" larger pan so the reinforced drain seal is centered over the drain
than the drain flange, then use CPE membrane solvent glue to bolts. Working from the drain to the walls, carefully tuck the
weld it into place and reinforce the seal at the drain. membrane tight into each corner, folding the extra material
into triangular flaps.
(continued)
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9 10
Dam corner
Apply CPE solvent glue to one side, press the flap flat, then At the shower curb, cut the membrane along the studs so
staple it in place. Staple only the top edge of the membrane to it can be folded over the curb. Solvent glue a dam corner at
the blocking; do not staple below the top of the curb, or on the each inside corner of the curb. Do not fasten the dam corners
curb itself. with staples.
11 12
At the reinforced drain seal on the membrane, locate and Use a utility knife to carefully cut away only enough of the
mark the drain bolts. Press the membrane down around the membrane to expose the drain and allow the middle drain
bolts, then use a utility knife to carefully cut a slit just large piece to fit in place. Remove the drain bolts, then position
enough for the bolts to poke through. Push the membrane the middle drain piece over the bolt holes. Reinstall the bolts,
down over the bolts. tightening them evenly and firmly to create a watertight seal.
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13 14
Test the shower pan for leaks overnight. Fill the shower Install cementboard on the alcove walls, using 1⁄4" wood
pan with water, to 1" below the top of the curb. Mark the shims to lift the bottom edge off the CPE membrane. To
water level and let the water sit overnight. If the water level prevent puncturing the membrane, do not use fasteners in the
remains the same, the pan holds water. If the level is lower, lower 8" of the cementboard. Cut a piece of metal lath to fit
locate and fix leaks in the pan using patches of membrane around the three sides of the curb. Bend the lath so it tightly
and CPE solvent. conforms to the curb. Pressing the lath against the top of the
curb, staple it to the outside face of the curb. Mix enough
mortar for the two sides of the curb.
15 16
Overhang the front edge of the curb with a straight 1× Attach the drain strainer piece to the drain, adjusting it
board so it is flush with the outer wall material. Apply mortar to to a minimum of 11⁄2" above the shower pan. On one wall,
the mesh with a trowel, building to the edge of the board. Clear mark 11⁄2" up from the shower pan, then use a level to draw
away excess mortar, then use a torpedo level to check for a reference line around the perimeter of the shower base.
plumb, making adjustments as needed. Repeat for the inside Because the pre pan establishes the 1⁄4" per foot slope, this
face of the curb. Note: The top of the curb will be finished after measurement will maintain that slope.
tile is installed (step 19). Allow the mortar to cure overnight.
(continued)
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17 18
Spread tile spacers over the weep holes of the drain to Continue to add mortar, building the floor to the reference
prevent mortar from plugging the holes. Mix the floor mortar, line on the walls. Use a level to check the slope, and pack
then build up the shower floor to roughly half the planned mortar into low spots with a trowel. Leave space around the
thickness of this layer. Cut metal lath to cover the mortar drain flange for the thickness of the tile. Float the surface
bed, keeping it 1⁄2" from the drain (see photo in step 18). using a wood float until it is smooth and slopes evenly to the
drain. When finished, allow the mortar to cure overnight before
installing the tiles.
19 20 Bullnose cap
Built-up curb
Shower pan
Install the tile. At the curb, cut the tiles for the inside to Mix enough mortar to cover the unfinished top of the curb,
protrude 1⁄2" above the unfinished top of the curb, and the tiles then pack it in place between the tiles, using a trowel. Screed
for the outside to protrude 5⁄8" above the top, establishing a off the excess mortar flush with the tops of the side tiles. Allow
1
⁄8" slope so water drains back into the shower. Use a level to the mortar to cure, then install bullnose cap tile. Install the
check the tops of the tiles for level as you work. wall tile, then grout, clean, and seal all the tile. After the grout
has cured fully, run a bead of silicone caulk around all inside
corners to create control joints.
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Design Suggestions 쑺
Textured surfaces improve the safety of tile floors, especially in wet areas such as this open shower. The shower
area is designated effectively by a simple shift in color and size.
The raised curb on this open shower keeps most of Mosaic tile, with its mesh backing and small shapes,
the water headed toward the drain. But no matter, the often works well on curved walls such as the one that
entire bathroom is tiled, so stray droplets are no problem. forms this shower. The rectangular shape of the individual
mosaic tiles complements the shape of the post at the
corner of the shower.
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Alcove Bathtubs
M ost of our homes are equipped with an alcove
tub that includes a tub surround and shower
function. By combining the tub and the shower in one
consider how you might enlarge it. Often, this means
cutting a hole in the wall on the adjoining room and
also in the ceiling below. This creates more work, of
fixture, you conserve precious bathroom floorspace course, but compared to the damage caused by a leaky
and simplify the initial installation. Plus, you only have drain from a subpar installation, making an access
one bathing fixture that needs cleaning. opening is little inconvenience.
But because tub/showers are so efficient, they
do get a lot of use and tend to have fairly limited
lifespans. The fact that the most inexpensive tubs on
the market are designed for alcove use also reduces
the average tub/shower lifespan. Pressed steel tubs Tools & Materials 쑺
have enamel finishes that crack and craze; plastic and
fiberglass tubs get grimy and stained; even acrylic and Channel-type pliers Galvanized
composite tubs show wear eventually (and as with Hacksaw deck screws
other fixtures, styles, and colors change too). Carpenter’s level Drain-waste-
Plumbing an alcove tub is a relatively difficult Pencil overflow kit
job because getting access to the drain lines attached Tape measure 1 × 3, 1 × 4,
to the tub and into the floor is often very awkward. Saw 2 × 4 lumber
Although an access panel is required by most codes, Screwdriver Galvanized roofing nails
the truth is that many tubs were installed without Drill Galvanized roof
them or with panels that are too small or hard to reach Adjustable wrench flashing
to be of much use. If you are contemplating replacing Trowel Thinset mortar
your tub, the first step in the decision process Shims Tub & tile caulk
should be to fid the access panel and determine if it Propane torch
is sufficient. If it is not (or there is no panel at all),
By replacing a dingy old alcove tub
with a fresh new one, you can make the
tub and shower area as pleasant to use
as it is efficient.
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Tips for Installing Bathtubs 쑺
Overflow
coverplate
Overflow
pipe
Drain Drain T
coverplate
Drain
tailpiece
Choose the correct tub for your plumbing setup. A Drain-waste-overflow kit with stopper mechanism
Alcove-installed tubs with only one-sided aprons are sold must be purchased separately and attached after the tub
as either “left-hand” or “right-hand” models, depending on is set. Available in both brass and plastic types, most kits
the location of the predrilled drain and overflow holes in include an overflow coverplate, an overflow pipe that
the tub. To determine which type you need, face into the can be adjusted to different heights, a drain T-fitting, an
alcove and check whether the tub drain is on your right or adjustable drain tailpiece, and a drain coverplate that
your left. screws into the tailpiece.
The supply system for a
bathtub includes hot and cold
Tub spout
nipple supply pipes, shutoff valves,
a faucet and handle(s), and a
Tub ledger spout. Supply connections can
be made before or after the tub
Faucet is installed.
The drain-waste-overflow
system for a bathtub includes
Flashing the overflow pipe, drain T, P-trap,
and branch drain. The overflow
Cold water pipe assembly is attached to the
supply Overflow tub before installation.
Shutoff pipe
valves
Drain Drain
tailpiece T-fitting
Hot water
Branch supply
drain
Wall and floor sections
P-trap removed for clarity
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■ How To Remove an Alcove Bathtub
1 2
Cut the old supply tubes, if you have access to them, with Remove the faucet handles, tub spout, shower head
a reciprocating saw and metal cutting blade or with a hacksaw. and escutcheon, and arm. For the spout, check the
Be sure to shut off the water supply at the stop valves first. Cut underside for a set screw and loosen it if you find one.
the shower pipe just above the faucet body and cut the supply Then, insert a long screwdriver into the spout and turn
tubes just above the stop valves. the spout counterclockwise.
3 4
Remove the drain plug, working from the tub side. If the tub Remove the overflow coverplate (top photo) and
has a pop-up drain with linkage, twist the plug to disengage the then withdraw the pop-up drain linkage through the
linkage and remove the plug (inset). Then, insert the handles overflow opening (lower photo).
of a channel-type pliers into the drain opening and past the
drain crosspiece. Twist the pliers counterclockwise to remove
the plug.
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5 6
Disconnect the overflow pipe from the drain assembly and Cut the wall to a line about 6" above the tub rim. Alcove
remove both parts (your access may not be as unrestricted as tubs are fastened to the wall studs with nails driven through
seen here). If you need to cut the pipes, go ahead and do it. or above a flange that protrudes up from the rim. You’ll need
In most cases, it is difficult to maneuver the tub out with the to remove a bit of the wall covering so you can remove
DWO assembly still attached. the fasteners.
7
If you can, pry out fasteners and then pull the tub away Option: Cut stubborn tubs in half to wrangle them out of the
from the walls by levering between the back rim of the tub alcove. This has the added benefit of making the tubs easier
and the back wall of the alcove. If it resists, check for adhesive to get out the door, down the stairs, and into the dumpster.
caulk or even flooring blocking the bottom of the apron. If
needed, raise the tub and slide a pair of 1 × 4 runners under
the skirt edge (inset photo) to make it easier to slide out.
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■ How to Install a New Alcove Tub
1 2
Prepare for the new tub. Inspect and remove old or Check the subfloor for level—if it is not level, use pour-on
deteriorated wall surfaces or framing members in the tub area. floor leveler compound to correct it (ask at your local flooring
With today’s mold-resistant wallboard products, it makes extra store). Make sure the supply and drain pipes and the shutoff
sense to go ahead and strip off the old alcove wallcoverings valves are in good repair and correct any problems you
and ceiling down to the studs so you can replace them. This encounter. If you have no bath fan in the alcove, now is the
also allows you to inspect for hidden damage in the wall and perfect time to add one.
ceiling cavities.
3 4
Faucet
body
Heatproof
Riser tube mat
Check the height of the crossbraces for the faucet body Begin by installing the new water supply plumbing.
and the showerhead. If your family members needed to stoop Measure to determine the required height of your shower riser
to use the old shower, consider raising the brace for the tube and cut it to length. Attach the bottom of the riser to the
showerhead. Read the instructions for your new faucet/diverter faucet body and the top to the shower elbow.
and check to see that the brace for the faucet body will conform
to the requirements (this includes distance from the surround
wall as well as height). Adjust the brace locations as needed.
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5 6
Attach the faucet body to the cross brace with pipe Slide the bathtub into the alcove. Make sure tub is flat on
hanger straps. Then, attach supply tubing from the stop valves the floor and pressed flush against the back wall. If your tub
to the faucet body, making sure to attach the hot water to the did not come with a tub protector, cut a piece of cardboard to
left port and cold to the right port. Also secure the shower line the tub bottom, and tape pieces of cardboard around the
elbow to its cross brace with a pipe strap. Do not attach the rim to protect the finish from shoes and dropped tools.
shower arm yet.
7 8
Mark locations for ledger boards. To do this, trace the Install 1 × 4 ledger boards. Drive two or three 3"-galvanized
height of the top of the tub’s nailing flange onto the wall studs deck screws through the ledger board at each stud. All three
in the alcove. Then remove the tub and measure the height of walls should receive a ledger. Leave an open space in the wet
the nailing flange. Measure down this same amount from your wall to allow clearance for the DWO kit.
flange lines and mark new ledger board location.
(continued)
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9 10
Drain strainer
Install the drain-waste-overflow (DWO) pipes before you Thread the male-threaded drain strainer into the
install the tub. Make sure to get a good seal on the slip nuts at female-threaded drain waste elbow. Wrap a coil of plumber’s
the pipe joints. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to make putty around the drain outlet underneath the plug rim first.
sure the pop-up drain linkage is connected properly. Make sure Hand tighten only.
rubber gaskets are positioned correctly at the openings on the
outside of the tub.
11 12
Attach the overflow coverplate, making sure the pop-up Place the tub back into the alcove, taking care not to
drain controls are in the correct position. Tighten the mounting bump the DWO assembly and disturb the connections. You
screws that connect to the mounting plate to sandwich the definitely will want a helper for this job. If the drain outlet of
rubber gasket snugly between the overflow pipe flange and the the DWO assembly is not directly over the drain pipe when the
tub wall. Then, finish tightening the drain strainer against the tub is in position, you’ll need to remove it and adjust the drain
waste elbow by inserting the handle of a pair of pliers into the line location.
strainer body and turning.
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13 14
Attach the drain outlet from the DWO assembly to the drain Drive a 11⁄2" galvanized roofing nail at each stud location,
P-trap. This is the part of the job where you will appreciate that just over the top of the tub’s nailing flange. The nail head
you spent the time to create a roomy access panel for the should pin the flange to the stud. Be careful here—an errant
tub plumbing. Test the drain and overflow to make sure they blow or overdriving can cause the enameled finish to crack
don’t leak. Also test the water supply plumbing, temporarily or craze. Option: You may choose to drill guide holes and nail
attaching the handles, spout, and shower arm so you can through the flange instead.
operate the faucet and the diverter.
15 16
Install the wallcoverings and tub surround (see pages for Install fittings. First, thread the shower arm into the shower
a 3-piece surround installation 81 to 83). You can also make a elbow and attach the spout nipple to the valve assembly. Also
custom surround from tileboard or cementboard and tile. attach the shower head and escutcheon, the faucet handle/
diverter with escutcheon, and the tub spout. Use thread
lubricant on all parts.
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3-Piece Tub Surrounds
N o one wants bathroom fixtures that are aging
or yellowed from years of use. A shiny new
tub surround can add sparkle and freshness to your
and in good condition, but it must be sanded and primed.
All surfaces must be primed with a water-based primer.
dream bath.
Tub surrounds come in many different styles, Tools & Materials 쑺
materials, and price ranges. Choose the features you
want and measure your existing bathtub surround Jigsaw Adhesive
for sizing. Surrounds typically come in three or five Hole saw Screwdriver
pieces. A three-panel surround is being installed here, Drill Adjustable wrench
but the process is similar for five-panel systems. Measuring tape Pry bar
Surface preparation is important for good glue Level Hammer
adhesion. Plastic tiles and wallpaper must be removed Caulking gun 3-piece tub surround
and textured plaster must be sanded smooth. Surrounds Primer
can be installed over ceramic tile that is well attached
Three-piece tub surrounds are
inexpensive and come in many colors
and styles. The typical unit has two end
panels and a back panel that overlap in
the corners to form a watertight seal. They
are formed from fiberglass, PVC, acrylic,
or proprietary resin-based polymers.
Five piece versions are also available
and typically have more features such as
integral soap shelves and even cabinets.
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■ How to Install a 3-Piece Tub Surround
1 2
Remove the old plumbing fixtures and wallcoverings in Replace the wallcoverings with appropriate materials,
the tub area. In some cases you can attach surround panels to such as water and mold-resistant wallboard or cementboard
old tileboard or even tile, but it is generally best to remove the (for ceramic tile installations). Make sure the new wall surfaces
wallcoverings down to the studs if you can, so you may inspect are smooth and flat. Some surround kit manufacturers
for leaks or damage. recommend that you apply a coat of primer to sheet goods
such as greenboard to create a better bonding surface for the
panel adhesive.
3 Test-fitting Tip 쑺
Ensure a perfect fit by taping the surround panels
to the walls in the tub area. Make sure the tops are
Test-fit the panels before you start; the tub may have level when the overlap seams are aligned and that
settled unevenly or the walls may be out of plumb. Check you have a consistent 1⁄8" gap between the panel
the manufacturer’s directions for distinguishing right and left bottoms and the tub flange. Mark the panels for
panels. Place a panel in position on the tub ledge. Use a level cutting if necessary and, once the panels have been
across the top of the panel to determine if it is level. Create removed, make any adjustments to the walls that
a vertical reference line to mark the edge of the panel on the are needed.
plumbing end.
(continued)
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4 5
Some kits are created to fit a range of bathtub Measure and mark the location of the faucets, spout,
dimensions. After performing the test fit, check the fitting and shower outlets. Measure in from the vertical reference
instructions to see if you need to trim any of the pieces. Follow line (made in step 3) and up from the top of the tub ledge.
the manufacturer's instructions for cutting. Here, we had to Re-measure for accuracy, as any cuts to the surround are
cut the corner panels because the instructions advise not to final. Place the panel face-up on a sheet of plywood. Mark the
overlap the back or side panel over the corner panels by more location of the holes. Cut the holes 1⁄2" larger than the pipe
than 3". Cut panels using a jigsaw and a fine-tooth blade that diameter. If your faucet has a recessed trim plate (escutcheon),
is appropriate for cutting fiberglass or acrylic tileboard. The cut cut the hole to fit the recess. Using a hole saw or a jigsaw, cut
panels should be overlapped by panels with factory edges. out the plumbing outlets.
6 7
Install the plumbing end panel, test-fitting first. In this Remove the protective backing from the tape. Carefully
surround, the end panels are installed first. Apply adhesive to lift the panel by the edges and place against the corner and
the back of the plumbing panel. Circle the plumbing outlet top of the tub ledge. Press firmly from top to bottom in the
holes 1" from the edge. Follow the manufacturer’s application corner, then throughout the panel.
pat t e rn. Do not a pply a dhes ive clos er th a n 1" to
the double-sided tape or the bottom edge of the panel.
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8 9
Test-fit the opposite end panel and make any necessary Apply adhesive to the back panel following the
adjustments. Apply the adhesive, remove the protective manufacturer’s instructions. Maintain a 1" space between
backing from the tape, and put in place. Apply pressure adhesive tape and the bottom of the panel. Remove protective
to the corner first from top to bottom, and then apply backing from the tape. Lift the panel by the edges and carefully
pressure throughout. center between the two end panels. When positioned, firmly
press in place from top to bottom.
10 11
Apply caulk to the bottom and top edges of the panels Apply silicone caulk to escutcheons or trim plates and
and at panel joints. Dip your fingertip in water and use it to reinstall them. Allow a minimum of 24 hours for caulk and
smooth the caulk to a uniform bead. adhesive to dry thoroughly before using the shower or tub.
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Sliding Tub Doors
C urtains on your bathtub shower are a hassle. If you
forget to tuck them inside the tub, water flows freely
onto your bathroom floor. If you forget to slide them
can be installed on ceramic tile walls or through a
fiberglass tub surround.
closed, mildew sets up shop in the folds. And every time
you brush against them they stick to your skin. Shower Tools & Materials 쑺
curtains certainly don’t add much elegance or charm to
a dream bath. Neither does a deteriorated door. Clean Measuring tape Masonry bit
up the look of your bathroom, and even give it an extra Pencil for tile wall
touch of elegance, with a new sliding tub door. Hacksaw Phillips screwdriver
When shopping for a sliding tub door, you have a Miter box Caulk gun
choice of framed or frameless. A framed door is edged Level Masking tape
in metal. The metal framing is typically aluminum Drill Silicone sealant
but is available in many finishes, including those that Center punch & remover
resemble gold, brass, or chrome. Glass options are also Razor blade Tub door kit
plentiful. You can choose between frosted or pebbled Marker Masking tape
glass, clear, mirrored, tinted, or patterned glass. Doors
A sliding tub door framed in aluminum gives the room a sleek, clean look and is just one of the available options.
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■ How to Install Sliding Tub Doors
1 2
Remove the existing door and inspect the walls. Use a Measure the distance between the finished walls
razor blade to cut sealant from tile and metal surfaces. Do not along the top of the tub ledge. Refer to the manufacturer’s
use a razor blade on fiberglass surfaces. Remove remaining instructions for figuring the track dimensions. For the product
sealant by scraping or pulling. Use a silicone sealant remover seen here, 3⁄16" is subtracted from the measurement to
to remove all residue. Remove shower curtain rods, if present. calculate the track dimensions.
Check the walls and tub ledge for plumb and level.
3 4
Using a hacksaw and a miter box, carefully cut the track Place a wall channel against the wall with the longer
to the proper dimension. Center the track on the bathtub ledge side out and slide into place over the track so they overlap.
with the taller side out and so the gaps are even at each end. Use a level to check the channel for plumb, and then mark
Tape into position with masking tape. the locations of the mounting holes on the wall with a marker.
Repeat for the other wall channel. Remove the track.
(continued)
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5 6
Drill mounting holes for the wall channel at the marked Apply a bead of silicone sealant along the joint between
locations. In ceramic tile, nick the surface of the tile with a the tub and the wall at the ends of the track. Apply a minimum
center punch, use a 1⁄4" masonry bit to drill the hole, and then 1
⁄4" bead of sealant along the outside leg of the track underside.
insert the included wall anchors. For fiberglass surrounds, use
a 1⁄8" drill bit; wall anchors are not necessary.
7 8
Header
Wall
channel
Position the track on the tub ledge and against the wall. Cut and install the header. At a location above the tops
Attach the wall channels using the provided screws. Do not of the wall channels, measure the distance between the
use caulk on the wall channels at this time. walls. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for calculating
the header length. For the door seen here, the length is the
distance between the walls minus 1⁄16". Measure the header
and carefully cut it to length using a hacksaw and a miter box.
Slide the header down on top of the wall channels until seated.
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9 10
Roller
Mount the rollers in the roller mounting holes. To begin, use Carefully lift the inner panel by the sides and place the
the second-from-the-top roller mounting holes. Follow the rollers on the inner roller track. Roll the door toward the
manufacturer’s instructions for spacer or washer placement shower end of the tub. The edge of the panel should touch
and orientation. both rubber bumpers. If it doesn’t, remove the door and move
the rollers to different holes. Drive the screws by hand to
prevent overtightening.
11 12
Lift the outer panel by the sides with the towel bar facing Apply a bead of clear silicone sealant to the inside seam
out from the tub. Place the outer rollers over the outer roller of the wall and wall channel at both ends and to the U-shaped
track. Slide the door to the end opposite the shower end of the joint of the track and wall channels. Smooth the sealant with a
tub. If the door does not contact both bumpers, remove the fingertip dipped in water.
door and move the rollers to different mounting holes.
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Jetted Tub
A jetted spa is basically a bathtub that recirculates
water, air, or a combination of the two to create
an effect known as hydromassage. Hydromassage
plumbing experience, consider hiring professionals
for all or parts of the project.
increases blood flow, relieves pressure on joints and
muscles, and relieves tension. Interior hydromassage
tubs usually have a water pump that blows a mixture Tools & Materials 쑺
of air and water through jets located in the tub body.
Many include an integral water heater. Plumbing tools Thread lubricant
The product you’ll see installed on these pages Utility knife Shims
is a bit different. It is an air-jet tub: a relatively new 4-foot level 1 × 4 lumber
entry in the jetted spa market that circulates only Square-edge trowel 11⁄2" galvanized
warm air, not water. This technology makes it safe to Drill or power driver deck screws
use bath oils, bubble bath, and bath salts in the spa. Channel-type pliers 1" galvanized
A model with no heater requires only a single 120-volt Hacksaw roofing nails
dedicated circuit. Models with heaters normally Level Plumber’s putty
require either multiple dedicated 120-volt circuits Circular saw Dry-set mortar
or a 240-volt circuit. Drill Trowel
Like normal bathtubs, jetted tubs can be installed Screwdriver Silicone caulk
in a variety of ways. Here, we install a drop-in tub Adjustable wrench Jetted tub
(no nailing flange) in a 3-wall alcove. This may Drain-waste-overflow Faucet
require the construction of a new stub wall, like assembly Plumbing supplies
the short wall we plumbed as the wet wall for this Rubber gaskets Joint compound
installation. Unless you have a lot of wiring and
Air-jet tubs create massaging action, stirring the water with warm air. Air-jets eliminate concerns about stagnant water and
bacteria that can remain in the pipes of whirlpool tubs.
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■ Tub Installation Options
Outdoor hot tubs can be inset into a deck or installed in a Alcove tubs, whether jetted or not, are normally supported
framed platform that can be built on just about any surface. by ledgers attached to the side and back walls. The front apron
Many hot tubs come preinstalled in a deck. on a jetted tub is removable so you can make hookups and
access the tub plumbing.
Dry-set tile mortar Tub rim
Top plate
Tub
Plywood
decking
Ceramic
tile
Cementboard
Bottom plate
Subfloor
A framed platform is built to support a drop-in style jetted tub in a corner or island A stub wall can be built to support one
application. The vertical panels installed on the sides of the structure should be easily or more sides of the tub and is often
removable for access to the plumbing and wiring of the tub. used in conjunction with ledgers.
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■ How to Install a Jetted Tub
1
Ledger
Box for
control
connections
Dedicated GFCI
circuit(s) for
blower and heater
Stub wall location
Stub wall
Front support wall
Prepare the installation area for the jetted tub. Indicate the exact location where you’d like the tub installed as well as the
planned wiring, water supply, and drain lines. Also plan for any wall-mounted tub controls, noting that wall-mounted ON/OFF
switches or timers generally need to be installed at least 5 ft. away from the tub.
2 3
Drain line
P-trap
Lay out the locations for the drain, supply, and electrical Install a new branch drain line with P-trap for the tub. The
lines, following the dimensions noted in your installation P-trap should be centered in the drain cutout area so it will
manual. Cut the drain opening in the subfloor making sure the align precisely with the tub’s drain tailpiece.
ceneterpoint is exactly aligned with the drain hole in the tub.
Cut out drain opening with a jigsaw.
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4 5
Build support framing as outlined in your installation Install water supply risers with shutoff valves. Make
manual, according to whichever type of installation you are sure to create or allow for an access panel so you can get
undertaking (see page 89). In this photo, a wet wall is being at the supply and drain plumbing easily. Here, a section of
framed at the head area of the tub. An identically sized stub the wallcovering on the room side of the wet wall will be
wall is installed in the corner to support the foot end of the tub. removable. You also need to make sure you have ready access
A third stub wall will be constructed to support the front of the to the motor and pump for the jetted tub. On the model shown
tub after the tub is in place. here, a removable front apron allows ample access.
6 7
Install a 1 × 4 cross brace in the stub wall cavity so you can Run new wiring circuits and install receptacles as required
secure the supply pipes with pipe straps. in your installation manual. You will need a permit for this part
of the job. If you do not have significant experience with home
wiring, hire a pro for the wiring. In most cases, you’ll need a
dedicated circuit for the pump and another (often 240-volt) for
the motor, and perhaps even a third circuit for accessories and
peripherals, such as lights.
(continued)
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8 9
Prepare additional circuits as required for your tub. Here, a Install wall controls as specified by the manufacturer. Check
circuit is being run from the tub installation area to a remote with your local inspections office. They may want to inspect
wall switch that will regulate the air flow. Do as much of the your wiring and plumbing lines before the tub is installed.
wiring and plumbing installation as you can before the tub is
in place.
Tip 쑺 10
Check the subfloor to make sure it is level. If you
encounter a dip or low area (especially if it is in the
area where the tub feet will rest) fill it with floor Attach the drain/overflow pipe assembly to the tub prior
leveler compound (available at home centers and to installation, using rubber gaskets and pipe joint compound.
flooring stores). It is important that the tub be level Measure the distance the drain tailpiece will need to drop
or have a very slight slope toward the drain. to connect with the drain trap and trim the tailpiece to fit
(inset photo).
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11 12
Secure the drain/overflow assembly by tightening the Slide or lower the tub into the installation area, taking
overflow coverplate and the drain strainer onto the assembly, care not to disturb the drain/overflow assembly. Make sure the
from inside the tub. drain tailpiece aligns exactly over the P-trap opening.
13 14
Front stub wall
location
Check the tub for level. If it is not level, check to make sure Secure the leveled tub in place as directed in your
it is resting cleanly on the subfloor all around. If needed, shim installation manual. Here, 2 × 4 block are screwed to the floor
underneath one of the feet to level the tub. Do not shim under around the perimeter of the bathtub basin to create small
apron if your tub has one that is already installed. curbs that prevent the tub from shifting. Build a 2 × 4 stub wall
to support the front tub rim.
(continued)
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15 16
Hook up the drain line by attaching the drain tailpiece to the Test the drain system to make sure it does not leak. Using a
P-trap in the floor. Use thread lubricant so you can get a good hose, first add a small amount of water and visually inspect the
seal on the slip fitting. slip fittings and the area around the drain body. If it looks good,
fill the tub up past the overflow line to make sure the overflow
pipe seal does not leak. Drain the tub.
17 18
Make wiring hookups. Here, the hard work is already done Install wall panels around the tub area. If you will be
and the blower and pump motors simply need to be plugged installing wall tile, use cementboard. If you’ll be installing a
into their dedicated receptacles. If this unit had a heater, it manufactured surround, mold-resistant drywall will do.
would require an additional dedicated circuit. The blower
motor also needs to be attached to the lead from the wall
regulator installed in step 8.
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19 20
Install the wall surface materials, cutting holes for the Install the spout supply valves and hook them up to the
spout and valves as needed. supply risers. Tubs are not predrilled for faucets as sinks are, so
you’ll need to decide whether to drill holes for the valves in the
tub rim using a step bit, or to mount the faucet in the platform
or the rim of the support wall.
21 22
Attach the spout and the valve handles and test the supply Attach the removable front apron or replace the access
system. To clear any debris from the lines, remove the spout panel covering. Then, fill the tub and have a nice, long soak.
aerator and run both hot and cold water for a minute or so.
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Bidets
B idets are becoming ever more popular in the
United States. Maybe that’s because they can
give a dream bath that European flare so many of us
the waste line plumbed below the floor, like a shower.
But like sinks, bidets may have single or multiple
deck holes for faucets, so be certain to purchase
find alluring. Go to Europe, Asia, or South America compatible components.
and you’ll see how much people can come to rely on
bidets. Some fans of this bathroom fixture think those
who don’t use bidets are unhygienic.
With the trend moving toward larger and more Tools & Materials 쑺
luxurious bathrooms, many Americans are becoming
intrigued by this personal hygiene appliance. The Tape measure (2) 3⁄8" supply lines
standard model features hot and cold faucets, and either Drill P–trap
a movable nozzle located by the faucet handles or a Adjustable wrench Tubing cutter
vertical sprayer located near the front of the bowl. Most Level Plumber’s putt
bidets are outfitted with a pop-up drain. You can also Silicone sealant Thread tape
buy a combination toilet and bidet if space is an issue. (2) 3⁄8" shut off Bidet
Installing a bidet is very much like installing a valves Bidet faucet
sink. The only difference is that the bidet can have
A bidet is a useful companion to a toilet, and it is a luxury item you and your family will appreciate. It's also a bit of a novelty
you will enjoy sharing. For people with limited mobility, a bidet is an aide to independent personal sanitation.
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Bidet faucet
Stopper Pop-up
lift rod
To wall
Option: drain
Wall drain arm
Pop-up
Option: mechanism
Floor drain arm
To floor drain
Bidet drains have more in common with sink drains than with toilet drains. Some even attach to a drain arm in the wall,
with a P-trap that fits between the fixture drain tailpiece and the arm. Other bidets drain into a floor drain outlet with a trap that’s
situated between the tailpiece and the branch drain line.
Overflow
Stool (basin)
Bidet faucet
Stopper
Drain line
Lift rod Bolts
Trap
A bidet requires a special faucet that allows you to mix hot You can get all the features of a bidet on your existing
and cold water to a temperature you find comfortable. It has a toilet with a number of aftermarket bidet seats. These seats
third knob to control the water pressure. The aerator and spout feature heaters, sprayers, and dryers in basic or deluxe versions.
pivot to allow you to adjust the spray to a comfortable height. Installation takes less than an hour and no additional space is
needed.
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■ How to Install a Bidet
1 2
Rough-in supply and drain lines according to the Apply a roll of plumber’s putty around the underside of the
manufacturer’s specifications. If you do not have experience drain flange. Wrap the bottom 2⁄3 of the flange threads with three
installing home plumbing, hire a plumber for this part of the job. layers of Teflon tape. Make sure to wrap the tape clockwise so that
Apply a coil of plumber’s putty to the base of the bidet faucet, tightening the nut will not bunch up the tape. Insert the flange in
and then insert the faucet body into the mounting holes. Thread the drain hole, place the gasket and washer, and then thread the
the washers and locknut onto the faucet body shank and hand nut onto the flange. Do not fully tighten.
tighten. Remove any plumber’s putty squeeze-out.
3 4
Install the pop-up drain apparatus according to the Place the bidet in its final location, checking that supply
manufacturer’s instructions. and drain lines will be in alignment. Mark the locations of the two
side-mounting holes through the predrilled holes on the stool
and onto the floor.
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5 6
Remove the bidet and drill 3⁄16" pilot holes at the marks on the Connect the water supply risers to the bidet faucet using
floor. Drive the floor bolts (included with the bidet basin) into the compression unions. Make sure to hook the hot and cold risers up
holes. Position the bidet so the floor bolts fit into the bolt holes in to the correct ports on the faucet.
the base.
7 8
Hook up the drain line by attaching the P-trap to the drain Remove the aerator so any debris in the supply line will clear
tailpiece. The trap is then attached to a branch drain line coming and then turn on the water and open both faucets. Check for
out of the wall or floor in the same manner as a sink drain. leaks in lines and fix, if found. Assemble the bolt caps and thread
them onto the floor bolts. Note: Do not dispose of paper in the
bidet—return to the toilet to dry off after using the bidet for
cleaning.
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Urinals
M ost people consider a urinal to be a commercial
or industrial bathroom accessory, so why
would you want one in your home—and in your
dream bathroom no less? The answer is in the many
advantages a urinal has to offer and the fact that
most major bathroom fixture manufacturers are now
producing urinals designed for residential installation.
Plumbing for a urinal resembles that of a vanity sink,
though it has only a cold water supply.
A urinal doesn’t take up much space and it uses
much less water per flush than a standard toilet: .5 to
1.0 gallon of water per flush for the urinal, as opposed
to the low-flow toilet’s 1.6 gallons of water per flush.
You also have the option of a waterless urinal, a great
option for water conservation. Finally, a urinal is
generally easier to keep clean than a toilet because
splashing is minimized.
In today’s homes, with large multiple bathrooms
and his and hers master baths, there are plenty of
places you can choose to install a urinal. Of course,
the perfect place is where it will get used the most:
in the bathroom closest to the TV if the guys con-
gregate at your house to watch sporting events; or in
the bathroom closest to boys’ bedrooms if you’ve got
a passel of them.
Tools & Materials 쑺
Tape measure Urinal flushometer
Adjustable wrench Emery cloth
Pencil Wire brush
Level Allen wrench
Sealant tape Drywall
Utility knife Drywall tape
Drywall saw Drywall compound
Tubing cutter 2 × 6 lumber
Hacksaw PVC 2" drainpipe
Miter box PVC 2" male threaded
Hex wrenches drain outlet
Smooth-jawed 1
⁄2" copper pipe
spud wrench Urinal
Slotted or phillips Sealant tape
screwdriver Pipe sealant
Urinals are great water savers and are becoming
increasingly popular in today’s dream bathroom.
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Waterless Urinals 쑺
For the ultimate in water-conservation, you can now
purchase a home urinal that uses zero water. A waterless
urinal is never flushed, so you’ll save about a gallon of
water per usage. Naturally, waterless urinals are plumbed
into your drain line system. But where typical plumbing
fixtures rely on fresh water to carry the waste into the
system, the waterless system relies simply on gravity
for the liquid waste to find its way out of the fixture and
into the drain. The secret is a layer of sealing liquid that
is heavier than the water and forms a skim coat over the
urine. When the urine enters the trap it displaces the sealing
liquid, which immediately reforms on the surface to create
a layer that seals in odors. The Kohler fixture seen here (see
Resources, page 330 is an example of the sealing liquid A layer of sealing liquid forms a skim coat that floats
system. Other waterless urinals use replaceable cartridges. on top of the liquid to trap odors.
■ Flushing Options for Urinals
A manual flush handle is still the most common and least Motion sensors automatically flush touchless urinals,
expensive flushing mechanism for urinals. It is reliable but not which is a great improvement in sanitation. These tend to be more
as sanitary as touchless types such as the Flushometer on expensive, however, and are more likely to develop problems. Also,
page 105. because they flush automatically when users step away from the
fixture, they don’t allow you to conserve water by limiting flushing.
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■ How to Install a Urinal
1 2 2×6
mounting board
Remove the drywall or other surface coverings between the Following the manufacturer’s directions for the urinal
urinal location and the closest water supply and waste lines. and flushometer, determine the mounting height of the urinal
Remove enough wall surface to reveal half of the stud face on and mark the location of the supply and waste lines. For this
each side of the opening to make patch work simpler. installation, the 2" waste line is centered 171⁄2" above the
finished floor. Cut 51⁄2" × 11⁄2" notches in the wall studs centered
at 32" above the finished floor surface, then attach a 2 × 6
mounting board.
3 4
Install the copper cold water supply line according to the Attach the male-threaded waste outlet to the drain pipe.
manufacturer’s specifications. Here, it is 43⁄4" to the side of the It should extend beyond the finished wall surface. Replace the
fixture centerline and 45" from the finished floor (111⁄2" from wall covering and finish as desired.
the top of the fixture). Cap the stubout 3" from the finished
wall surface. Install the 2" drainpipe and vent pipe, making sure
that the centerline of the drain outlet is positioned correctly
(here, 171⁄2" above the finished floor and 43⁄4" to the side of the
supply line).
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5 6
Attach the mounting brackets 32" above the floor, 31⁄4" to Apply Teflon tape to the waste outlet. Thread the female
the sides of the centerline of the waste outlet. collar onto the waste outlet until it is firmly seated and the
flanges are horizontally level. Place the gasket onto the
female collar. The beveled surface of the gasket faces toward
the urinal.
7 8
Hang the urinal on the brackets, being careful not to bump Determine the distance from the centerline of the water
the porcelain as it chips easily. Thread the screws through the inlet on the top of the urinal, called the spud, to the finished
washers, the holes in the urinal, and into the collar. Tighten the wall. Subtract 11⁄4" from this distance and cut the water supply
screws by hand, then one full turn with an adjustable wrench. pipe to that length using a tubing cutter. Turn off the water
Do not overtighten. before cutting. After cutting, deburr the inside and outside
diameter of the supply pipe. Attach the threaded adapter to
the cut pipe.
(continued)
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9 10
Supply flange
Control stop
Covering tube
Measure from the wall surface to the first thread of the Apply a small amount of pipe sealant to the adapter
adapter. Using a hacksaw and a miter box or a tubing cutter, threads, then thread the control stop onto the adapter
cut the covering tube to this length. Slide the covering tube threads. Position the outlet toward the urinal so that it is
over the water supply pipe. Slide the supply flange over horizontally level.
the covering tube until it rests against the wall. Tighten the
setscrew on the flange with an Allen wrench.
11 12
Valve body
Slip nut
Tailpiece
Hand tighten the tailpiece into the flushometer valve body. Hand tighten the slip nut that connects the valve body to
the control stop.
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13 Tip 쑺
For maximum sanitation, choose a urinal flush
mechanism with an electronic sensor, like the Kohler
Flushometer being installed here. The electronic
eye on this type of flush mechanism senses when
a user approaches the fixture and then commands
the fixture to flush when the user steps away. This
eliminates the need to touch the handle before the
user has the opportunity to wash his hands.
Use a smooth-jawed spud wrench to securely tighten the
tailpiece, vacuum breaker, and spud couplings.
While testing the flush, adjust the
14 supply stop screw counterclockwise
until adequate flow is achieved.
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Water Softeners
I f your house has hard water coursing through its
pipes, then you’ve got a couple of problems. Not
only does your water do a poor job of dissolving soap,
but you also have plenty of scale deposits on dishes,
plumbing fixtures, and the inside of your water heater.
Softeners fix these problems by chemically
removing the calcium and magnesium that are
responsible for the hard water (usually described as
over 17 grains of minerals per gallon). These units are
installed after the water meter but before the water
line branches off to appliances or fixtures, with one
exception: Piping to outside faucets should branch
off the main line before the softener because treating
outside water is a waste of money.
Softeners come with an overflow tube and a purge
tube to rinse out the minerals that are extracted from
the water. These tubes should be attached to the floor
drain or to a laundry sink basin, which is the better
approach if the sink is close by
Know Your Types of Salt 쑺
Salt for water softeners comes in three basic types:
rock salt, solar salt (crystals), and evaporated salt
(pellets). Rock salt is a mineral that’s mined from
salt deposits. Solar salt is a crystalline residue left
behind when seawater is evaporated naturally. It
sometimes is sold as pellets or blocks. Evaporated
salt is similar to solar salt, but the liquid in the brine
is evaporated using mechanical methods. Rock salt
is cheapest but leaves behind the most residue and
therefore requires more frequent brine tank cleaning.
Evaporated salt pellets are the cleanest and require
the least maintenance.
Tools & Materials 쑺
Tape measure Soldering flux
Tubing cutter Solder
Propane torch 4"-thick
Slip-joint pliers concrete blocks A water softener is a two-part appliance that includes the
Steel wool water softener itself (to the left, above) and an attached salt
storage tank (right).
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Softened Water 쑺
From your plumbing’s point-of-view, the best water
softening strategy is to position the softener close to
the main, cold-only supply line (as seen here). Doing this
results in both hot and cold water being softened. But
because some homeowners object to the altered taste
and increased salinity of softened water, the softener may
be installed after the hot and cold lines have split from
the main supply line. This way, the water may be softened Main water
supply line Cold
immediately before it enters the heater, and the cold to water heater supply line
water remains unsoftened.
■ How to Install a Water Softener
1 2
The first step is to measure the distance between the bypass Install the plastic tubing discharge tube on the head of
ports on the tank to the cold water supply line. Cut copper the water softener following the manufacturer’s directions.
tubing to fit this space and solder appropriate fittings onto
both ends.
(continued)
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The overflow tube is usually connected
3 to the side of the softener’s tank. Run this
tube, along with the discharge tube, to a
floor drain or a laundry sink.
4 5
Install the bypass valve in the softener’s head. One side Attach the copper tubing that supplies the water to the
of the valve goes in the inlet port and the other fits into the bypass valve. For this unit, the joint is made with a male-
outlet port. This valve is held in place with simple plastic clips threaded union that screws onto the bypass valve ports.
or threaded couplings. Note: Check local codes for bypass
requirements.
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Tighten both supply tube nuts with a
6 wrench. Do not over tighten them.
7 To house 8
From main
Connect the copper tubing from the softener to the water Turn on the water supply and make sure the installation
supply lines. Clean all fittings and pipes with steel wool. Then, works properly. If you see any leaks, fix them. Then add the
apply soldering flux to the parts and solder them together with water softening pellets to the top of the unit in the ratios
a propane torch. For more information on soldering copper, explained on the package.
see page 276.
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Hot Water Dispenser
I t’s still easy to find a refrigerator without a cold
water dispenser in its door, but you have to walk
past a lot of product before you see one. This says
Note: Installing this appliance requires both
plumbing and wiring work. If you are unsure of your
skills in these areas, hire a professional. (Be sure to check
something about people liking convenience. In many your local codes before starting.)
ways, a hot water dispenser is even more convenient
than a cold water dispenser. There are boxes and
boxes of beverages and food that need only a trickle
of hot water to achieve their destiny: coffee, tea, hot Tools & Materials 쑺
chocolate, instant soup, hot cereals, and just plain
old hot water and lemon to name a few. And there’s Power drill with Wire connectors
no faster way to get this hot water than with a hot 3
⁄4"-dia. bit Saddle valve
water dispenser. These units are designed to fit in Utility knife Brass plug to fill
the spare hole on many kitchen sink decks. But, if Wire stripper spray hose port on
you don’t have one, you can replace your spray hose Screwdrivers kitchen faucet
with the dispenser. Or, if you want to keep the hose, Adjustable wrench Teflon tape
just drill an extra hole in your sink or countertop to 14/2 NM Hot water
accommodate the dispenser faucet. electrical cable dispenser kit
Flexible cable conduit Cable connectors
Duplex electrical box 15-amp circuit
Conduit box breaker (to
Switch Receptacle 쑺 connector match service
Switched receptacle panel breakers)
Connecting tab Measuring tape Tubing cutter
Grounding screw terminal
Silver screw terminal
Neutral
wires
Wire to
Feed wire light fixture
Brass screw terminal
Grounding wires
Three wires are connected to the switch/receptacle.
One hot wire is the feed wire that brings power into
the box. It is connected to the side of the switch
that has a connecting tab. The other hot wire carries
power out. It is connected to the brass screw
terminal on the side that does not have a connecting
tab. The white, neutral wire is pigtailed to the silver
screw terminal. The grounding wires must be
pigtailed to the switch/receptacle green grounding
screw and to the grounded metal box. On-demand hot water is not only a convenience, it can help
to conserve both energy and water.
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■ How to Install a Hot Water Dispenser
1 2
14/2 Cable from
service panel
Drill an access hole for a new power cable (in flexible Fish a 14/2 or 12/2 cable from the electric service panel up
conduit) in the bottom of the sink compartment cabinet. Use through the hole in the floor. Strip the sheathing from the cable
a drill and a 3/4"-dia. bit. Go into the basement and drill a hole with a utility knife. Also strip the insulation from the wires with
up through the flooring that will align with the first hole (or a wire stripper. Do not nick the wire insulation.
make other arrangements to run circuit wire as you see fit).
3 4
Slide a piece of flexible conduit over the wires, so the Install a switched receptacle. Mount a duplex metal box
wires are protected from the point they leave the cabinet floor on the cabinet wall. Connect the black power wire to the brass
to when they enter the electrical box. Attach the conduit to the screw on the switch. Attach the white neutral wire to the
box with a box connector so at least 8" of wire reaches into silver screw on the receptacle. Attach the ground wire to the
the box. receptacle ground terminal.
(continued)
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5 6 7
Tie into water supply. Water for the Determine the best place for the To replace a spray hose with the
dispenser comes from the cold water dispenser heater, usually on the back dispenser faucet, remove the nut that
supply line under the kitchen sink. cabinet wall, so its pigtail plug will reach holds the sprayer to the sink. Then
Mount a tee on this pipe, below its the switched receptacle. Screw its remove the end of the hose from its
shutoff valve, by alternately tightening mounting bracket to the wall and hang port on the bottom of the faucet, using
the tee bolts on both sides with the heater on this bracket. an adjustable wrench. This will free the
a wrench. hose so it can be pulled out from above
the sink. Plug the spray hose part on
the faucet.
8 9
The dispenser faucet is designed to fit into a standard sink Join the faucet to the sink supply tee with a piece of
hole. To install it, just squeeze its supply tubes together so flexible tubing. Measure this piece, make the cut with a tubing
they can fit into the hole, and drop it in place. The unit is held cutter, and install compression nuts and ferrules on both ends.
securely by a washer and locking screw that is tightened from Slide one end of the tubing into the valve and tighten the nut
below the sink. with a wrench.
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10 11 12
Note: Hire an
electrician if
you are not
experienced
with wiring.
Attach the two copper water tubes Slide the end of the plastic vent Install the heater power supply cable
to the heater with compression fittings. tube onto the nipple on top of the in the service panel. Begin by turning off
Tighten them with a wrench. On the tank and attach it according to the the main power breaker. Then, remove
model seen here, the heater unit has manufacturer’s instructions. On some the outside door panel and remove one
three tubes. One supplies cold water to models a spring clip is used for this job; of the knockout plates from the top or
the heater, one supplies hot water to other models require a hose clamp. side of the box. Install a cable clamp
the faucet, and a third clear plastic hose inside this hole, push the cable through
acts as a vent and is attached to an the clamp, and tighten the clamp to
expansion tank within the heater. secure the cable.
13 14 15
Strip the sheathing from the cable Loosen the lug screw on a standard Once a new breaker is installed, the
inside the panel and remove the 15-amp breaker and put the end of the service panel cover has to be modified to
insulation from the ends on the black black (hot) cable wire under this lug. fit over it. Break out the protective plate
and white cable wires. Loosen a lug Tighten the lug with a screwdriver. Then that covers the breaker position with
screw on the neutral bus bar and push install the breaker in the hot bus bar by pliers. Screw the cover to the panel, and
the white wire under the lug. Attach the pushing it into place. turn on the main breaker. Turn on the
ground wire to the grounding bus bar. water supply to the dispenser and plug it
Tighten both these screws securely. into the receptacle. Turn on the receptacle
switch, wait fifteen minutes, and check
that the system is working properly.
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Icemaker
M ost expensive refrigerators come with
icemakers as standard equipment, and
practically every model features them as an option
(a refrigerator with an icemaker usually costs about
$100 more). It is also possible to purchase an
icemaker as a retrofit feature for your old fridge.
Installing one is a pretty simple job, especially if
you buy a kit made by the same manufacturer that
built your refrigerator. Most appliance stores can look
up the information specific to your fridge, (be sure to
have your model number).
Using equipment from the same manufacturer
ensures a proper fit. The kit screws fit the fridge holes.
The hardest part is running water from a convenient
supply line. Because you are working in the kitchen,
one sensible source is the cold water line under the
kitchen sink. Often by drilling a small hole in the floor,
you can access a nearby line in the basement without
having to fish your tubing behind (or through) a bank
of cabinets.
Most icemakers either come preinstalled or are
purchased as an accessory when you buy your new
refrigerator. But if you have an older refrigerator with
no icemaker and you’d like it to have one, all is not
lost. Inspect the back of the unit, behind the freezer
compartment. If your refrigerator has the required
plumbing to support an icemaker you will see a
port or a port that is covered with backing. In that
case, all you need to do is take the make and model
A built-in icemaker is easy to install as a retrofit appliance
information to an appliance parts dealer and they can in most modern refrigerators. If you want to have an endless
sell you an aftermarket icemaker. Plan to spend $100 supply of ice for home use, you’ll wonder how you ever got
to $200. along without one.
Tools & Materials 쑺
Screwdrivers Duct or masking tape Channel-type pliers Saddle valve or
Nut drivers Electric drill and Open-end or T-fitting
Needle-nose pliers assorted bits adjustable wrench (for supply tube)
Icemaker kit Putty knife
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How Icemakers Work 쑺
An icemaker receives its supply of water for making
cubes through a 1⁄4" copper supply line that runs from the
icemaker to a water pipe. The supply line runs through a
valve in the refrigerator and is controlled by a solenoid
that monitors the water supply and sends the water into
the icemaker itself, where it is turned into ice cubes. The
cubes drop down into a bin, and as the ice level rises, they
also raise a bail wire that’s connected to a shutoff. When
the bin is full, the bail wire will be high enough to trigger a
mechanism that shuts off the water supply.
Aftermarket automatic icemakers are simple to
install as long as your refrigerator is icemaker ready. Make
sure to buy the correct model for your appliance and do
careful installation work—icemaker water supply lines are
very common sources for leaks.
■ How to Install an Icemaker
1 2
Remove all the contents from the refrigerator and freezer On the back side of the refrigerator, remove the backing
compartments and store them in ice chests or in a neighbor’s or unscrew the icemaker access panel that covers the
refrigerator. Unplug the unit and pull it out from the wall. Then icemaker port.
open the freezer door and remove the icemaker cover plate at
the back of the compartment.
(continued)
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3 4
Water port
Wiring harness port
Locate and clear the parts. One opening is for the water Install the water tube assembly (part of the icemaker kit)
line. The other is for a wiring harness. Usually, these holes are in its access hole on the back of the refrigerator. This assembly
filled with insulation plugs that keep the cold air inside the features a plastic elbow attached to the plastic tube that
freezer from leaking out into the room. Remove these plugs reaches into the freezer compartment.
with needle-nose pliers.
5 6
Hook up the harness. Icemaker kits usually come with a Join the end of the icemaker wiring harness to the power
wiring harness that joins the icemaker motor inside the freezer connector that was preinstalled on the back of the refrigerator.
box to the power supply wires. Push this harness through its This connection should lay flat against the back. If it doesn’t,
access hole and into the freezer compartment. Then seal the just tape it down with some duct tape or masking tape.
hole with the plastic grommet that comes with the harness.
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7 8
Solenoid
Tube to icemaker
The water tube at the top of the refrigerator is attached The icemaker wiring harness comes with two snap
to the solenoid that is mounted at the bottom with a plastic connectors. One goes to the preinstalled wires on the
water line. To install the line, first attach it to the water tube, refrigerator and the other is attached to the solenoid. Just push
then run it down the back of the refrigerator and attach it this second connector onto the brass tabs, usually at the top
to the solenoid valve with a compression fitting. This job is of the solenoid.
easier to do before you attach the solenoid assembly to the
refrigerator cabinet.
9 10
Attach the solenoid to a mounting bracket that should be Install the water-inlet copper tube once the solenoid
installed on the cabinet wall at the bottom of the refrigerator. is mounted. Attach it by tightening the nut on one end with
Mounting holes may be predrilled in the cabinet for this channel-type pliers. The other end of the tube is held to the
purpose. But if not, drill holes to match the bracket and the refrigerator cabinet with a simple clamp. Make sure the end
size of the screws. Then attach the bracket and make sure to of this tubing is pointing straight up.
attach the solenoid ground wire to one of these screws.
(continued)
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The end of the water-inlet tube is
11 joined to the water supply tubing (from
the house plumbing system) with a
brass compression coupling. Tighten the
compression nuts with an open-end or
adjustable wrench.
12 13
Run the water tubing to the kitchen sink cabinet or From inside the freezer compartment, make sure the
through the floor to a cold water pipe below. Turn off the water tube and the wiring harness (from the back of the
water supply at the nearest shutoff valve. Install a T-fitting in refrigerator) are free. If they are caught on the cabinet, loosen
the pipe line. Attach the icemaker tubing to the T-fitting with a them until they are easily accessible.
compression fitting.
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Connect the wire harness to the plug
14 on the icemaker unit. Also connect the
water supply tube to the back of the
icemaker with a spring clip or hose clamp.
Install the icemaker. Remove any small
15 rubber caps that may be installed in the
mounting screw holes with a narrow
putty knife. Lift the unit and screw it to
the freezer wall. The mounting bracket
holes are usually slotted to permit leveling
the unit. Plug in the refrigerator and test
the icemaker.
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Pot Filler
K itchen design trends are moving ever closer to
replicating commercial kitchens in the home.
One example of this trend is the pot filler. A long-neck
faucet that mounts to the wall behind the cooktop,
a pot filler allows you to dispense water directly into
large pots on the cooktop. This saves lugging pots of
water from the sink to the stove.
Although horizontally mounted models are
available, most pot fillers are attached to the wall.
Almost all are designed for cold water only. Some have
two valves, one at the wall and another at the end of
the spout. Other models can be turned on with a foot
pedal for safe, hands-free use.
A pot filler will require code-approved supply pipe
(1⁄2" in most cases) connected with a permanent union
at another supply line or the main. The best time to
run a new supply is during a remodel. But retrofitting
a new supply line and mounting a pot filler is not too
difficult as a standalone project. Using PEX supply A pot filler is a cold-water tap that you install above your
pipe will make running the new supply line in finished cooktop so you can add water to large stock pots without
walls easier (see pages 288 to 293 for cutting and having to carry a full pot of water around the kitchen.
fitting PEX).
Tools & Materials 쑺
Hack saw Pot filler Reciprocating saw Wallboard
PEX tools Protector plates Wallboard tools patching materials
PEX pipe PEX fittings Pipe joint compound
Plan the route for the new supply line. In
most cases, you will enter the stud cavity
of the wall and run a new line directly
upward, past the backsplash height of
the countertop (A). If the countertop
A backsplash is removable, avoid wallboard
patching by installing the tubing behind the
B backsplash (B). You may also be able to run
the supply line underneath the kitchen if
there is an unfinished basement (C).
C
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■ How to Install a Pot Filler
1 2
Shut off the water supply and Plan the route for the new supply line beginning at the T-fitting and working
locate the cold water supply riser at the toward the cooktop area. Determine the height of the new line and then snap
kitchen sink. Cut into the riser and install chalklines from the sink to the cooktop. With the electrical power shut off, remove
a T-fitting, or replace the existing shutoff wall coverings 2" above and below the chalkline and at the location for the pot filler
valve on the riser with a multiple-outlet outlet. Make sure the location is high enough to clear your tallest stockpot.
shutoff valve, with an outlet for 1⁄2"
supply pipe for the pot filler.
3 4
Drill 3⁄4" holes in the framing for the supply tubes. Install Attach the new PEX supply line to the T-fitting at the
protector plates if the holes are within 11⁄4" of the stud edge. supply riser, installing an accessible shutoff valve on
Run 1⁄2" PEX from the supply riser through the holes to the pot the new line.
filler location (inset).
5 6 Inlet
Flange
At the cooktop, install the faucet union as specified by the Cut and install the wallboard patch. Fit the flange over
manufacturer. Add blocking as needed. The pot filler installed the inlet. Apply pipe joint compound to the threads of the
here attaches to a drop-ear L-fitting, mounted to blocking. faucet body. Assemble and adjust the faucet according to the
Apply pipe joint compound to the faucet inlet and thread it manufacturer’s instructions. Test the faucet before refinishing
on to the L-fitting. the wallboard.
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Reverse-Osmosis Water Filters
N ot all water is created equal. Some water tastes
better than other water. Some water looks better
than other water. And some has more impurities.
For example, sediment filters will remove rust,
sand, and suspended minerals, like iron. A carbon
filter can remove residual chlorine odors, some
Because no one wants to drink bad water, the bottled pesticides and even radon gas. Distillation filters can
water business has exploded over the past twenty remove bacteria and organic compounds, while a
years. Home filtration systems have also grown by traditional water softener can neutralize hard water.
leaps and bounds, in part because there are so many But many of the most toxic impurities, heavy metals
different types of filters available. like mercury, lead, cadmium, and arsenic are best
Reverse-osmosis filters can be highly effective for removing specific contaminants from drinking water. Because the filtration
process wastes a lot of fresh water, it’s a good idea to have your water professionally tested before investing in an RO system.
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removed with a reverse-osmosis (RO) system like the
one shown here. Tools & Materials 쑺
These filters are designed to treat just cooking and
drinking water. The system holds the treated water in Plastic gloves Teflon tape
a storage tank and delivers it to a sink-mounted faucet Screwdrivers Saddle valve
on demand. RO units feature multiple filter cartridges, Electric drill Rubber drain saddle
in this case a pre-filter unit, followed by the RO Adjustable wrench
membrane, and then a carbon post-filter.
Point-of-Use Filters 쑺
Point-of-use water filtration systems are typically installed in the sink base cabinet, with a separate faucet from the main
kitchen faucet. The setup shown here has an extra filter to supply a nearby refrigerator icemaker.
Drinking water faucet
T-coupling
Saddle valve
Filtration unit
Additional filter for Refrigerator
refrigerator icemaker icemaker line
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■ How to Install a Reverse-Osmosis Water Filter
1 2
Install the RO membrane filter. It is shipped in a separate Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to establish the
bag that is filled with anti-bacterial fluid. Wearing plastic gloves, best location for the filter inside your kitchen sink cabinet.
remove the cartridge from the bag and install it in the filter Drive mounting screws into the cabinet wall to support
unit. Make sure to touch only the ends of the cartridge when the unit.
you handle it or you can damage the membrane.
3 4
Assemble the entire filtration system and then hang it on Attach valve to the side of the storage tank. Just wrap its
the cabinet wall. The best system layout may be to locate the threads a couple of times with Teflon tape and screw the valve
filter on one wall and the storage tank on the opposite wall. into the tank. Finger tighten it, then turn it one more turn with
an adjustable wrench.
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5 6
Connect the filter to the tank with plastic tubing. In most Connect the water storage tank and faucet with plastic
units, the joint between the two is made with a compression tubing. Here, a push-type compression fitting on the end of the
fitting. On this filter, the fitting is a push-type collar. Simply tubing was used. To install it, push the end of the fitting over
insert the hose into the collar until it will not go any farther. the bottom of the faucet shank until the fitting bottoms out.
7 8
Jamb nut
The filter faucet comes with a jamb nut and sometimes a Mount the faucet in the sink deck, following the
plastic spacer (as with this unit) that goes on the shank of the manufacturer's instructions.
faucet before the jamb nut. After the nut is finger tight, snug it
securely with an adjustable wrench.
(continued)
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9 10
Compression
fitting
Tubing
outlet
The water supply to the filter comes from the cold-water Attach the filter supply tube to the port on the shut off
supply line that services the kitchen sink faucet. The easiest valve with a compression fitting. Push the end of the tubing
way to tap into the supply line is to replace the shutoff valve onto the valve, then push the ferrule against the valve and
at the supply riser with a new valve containing an additional thread the compression nut into place. Finger tighten it, then
outlet for tubing. turn it one more full turn with a wrench.
11 12
Tailpiece
with port
Waste-T
The filter must also be tied into the drain system. The best Attach the tubing from the drain to the auxiliary port on
way to do this is to replace the drain tailpiece with a new drain the tailpiece. Finish up by turning on the water and checking
tailpiece that contains an auxiliary port. the system for leaks. Be sure to filter and drain at least two
tanks of water, to clean any contaminants from the system,
before drinking the water.
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Installing a Whole-House Water Filtration System 쑺
A whole-house water filtration system is installed along
the supply pipe carrying water to the house, located A
after the water meter, but before any other appliances in
the pipe line. A whole-house system reduces the same
elements as an undersink system and can also help B C
reduce the iron flowing into the water softener,
prolonging its life.
Always follow the manufacturer’s directions
for your particular unit. If your electrical system is
grounded through the water pipes, make sure to install D
ground clamps on both sides of the filtration unit with a
connecting jumper wire. Globe valves should be installed
within 6" of the intake and the outtake sides of the filter.
Filters must be replaced every few months,
depending on type of manufacturer. The filtration unit
cover unscrews for filter access.
E
A whole-house water filtration system: (A) intake
side, (B) supply pipe from the water meter pipe,
(C) outtake side to the house supply pipe, (D) filter, and
(E) filtration unit cover.
1 2
Shut off main water supply and turn on faucets to Install a filter and screw filtration unit cover to
drain pipes. Position unit after water meter, but before any bottom of the filtration unit. Attach a jumper wire to pipes
other appliances in supply pipe. Measure and mark pipe on other side of unit, using pipe clamps. Open main water
to accomodate the filtration unit. Cut pipe at marks with a supply lines to restore the water supply. Allow faucets to
pipe cutter. Join water meter side of pipe with intake side run for a few minutes, as you check to make sure that the
of unit, and house supply side of pipe with outtake side of system is working properly.
unit. Tighten with a wrench.
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Freezeproof Sillcocks
I f you live in a part of the world where sub-freezing
temperatures occur for extended periods of time,
consider replacing your old sillcock (outdoor faucet)
Tools & Materials 쑺
with a frost-proof model. In this project we show you Adjustable wrench Screwdriver
how to attach the new sillcock using compression Frost-proof sillcock Threaded adapter
fittings, so no torch or molten solder is required. Line level #10 or #8 screws
Compression fittings are ok to use in accessible Silicone caulk Tubing cutter
locations, like between open floor joists in a basement. Teflon tape 11⁄8-inch spade bit
Your building code may prohibit their use in Pipe joint compound 10d nails
enclosed walls and floors. To see if your sillcock can Pipe wrench Board
be replaced according to the steps outlined here, see Tape measure Electric drill
the facing page.
1
⁄8-in. drill bit
Did that outside faucet freeze again? Replace it with one that you never have to turn off in the winter.
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Anatomy of a Frost-proof Sillcock 쑺
Threaded adapter
Anti-siphon Line level indicates
device correct pitch
Female Compression
threads fitting
Shaft Existing pipe to
water supply
Stem
seal
The frost-proof sillcock shown here can stay active all winter because the stem washer turns off the water in the warm
interior of the house. The shaft needs to be pitched slightly down toward the outside to allow water to drain from the
shaft. This supply pipe is connected to the threaded adapter with a compression fitting, which is secured to the pipe with
two wrenches. Do not use the steps that follow if any of the following apply:
• Your pipes are made from steel instead of copper.
• The length of the pipe from the sillcock to where you can comfortably work on it is greater than 12".
• The pipe has a valve or change of direction fitting within ten inches of the existing sillcock.
• The existing supply pipe is 5⁄8" outside diameter as measured with an adjustable wrench, and you are unable to make
the hole in the wall bigger to accommodate the thicker shaft of the frost-proof sillcock. (For example, the hole is in a
concrete foundation.)
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■ How to Replace a Hose Bib with a Frost-proof Sillcock
1 2
Turn off the water to your outside faucet at a shutoff When you are sure the water flow has been stopped, use
found inside the house or basement behind the faucet a tubing cutter to sever the supply pipe between the shutoff
(see page 6 if you have trouble turning off the water). Open valve and the faucet. Make this first cut close to the wall.
the faucet and a bleeder valve on the shutoff to drain any Tighten the tubing cutter onto the pipe. Both wheels of the
remaining water from the pipe. cutter should rest evenly on the pipe. Turn the cutter around
the pipe. The line it cuts should make a perfect ring, not a
spiral. If it doesn’t track right, take it off and try in a slightly
different spot. When the cutter is riding in a ring, tighten the
cutter a little with each rotation until the pipe snaps.
3 Spot where supply
4
tubing was cut Good access
point
3"
6"
Old faucet and
supply tubing
Remove the screws, holding the flange of the old sillcock Find a spot on the supply pipe where you have good
to the house, and pull it and the pipe stub out of the hole. access to work with a fitting and wrenches. The point of this is
Measure the outside diameter of the pipe stub. It should be to help you select a new sillcock that is the best size for your
either 5⁄8", which means you have 1⁄2" nominal pipe, or 7⁄8", project. In most cases, you’ll have only two or three 6" to 12"
which means you have 3⁄4" nominal pipe. Measure the diameter shaft sizes to pick from. In the example above, we can see that
of the hole in the joist. (If it’s less than an inch, you’ll probably the cut section of pipe is 6" long and the distance from the cut
need to make it bigger.) Measure the length of the pipe stub end to a spot with good access on the intact pipe is 3", so a
from the cut end to where it enters the sillcock. This is the new sillcock that’s 9" long will fit perfectly.
minimum length the new sillcock must be to reach the old
pipe. Record all this information.
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Compression nut
5 6 Adapter ( 3⁄ 4 FIP × 5⁄ 8" compression)
New sillcock
inserted into
enlarged hole
Drill guide Supply from outside
pipe Compression
ring
If you need to replace old pipe with a larger diameter size, Insert the sillcock into the hole from the outside. Cut the
simplify the job of enlarging the sillcock entry hole into your supply pipe where it will meet the end of the sillcock. From
home with a simple drill guide. First, drill a perpendicular 11⁄8" the inside, wrap Teflon tape clockwise onto the threads of the
diameter hole in a short board. From outside, hold the board sillcock. Stabilize the sillcock with one wrench and fully tighten
over the old hole so the tops are aligned (you can nail or screw the adapter onto the threaded sillcock with the other wrench.
it to the siding if you wish). Run the drill through your hole
guide to make the new, wider and lower hole in the wall.
7 8
Apply pipe joint
compound here
Insert the end of the supply pipe into the adapter and pull Turn the water back on. With the sillcock off and then on,
them together. Spin the sillcock shaft so the faucet outside check for leaks. Tighten the compression nut a little more if this
is oriented correctly (there should be a reference line on the union drips with the sillcock off. From outside the house, push
bottom or top of the shaft). Apply pipe joint compound to the the sillcock down against the bottom of the entry hole in the
male threads on the adapter body. Hand thread the nut onto wall. Drill small pilot holes into the siding through the slots on
the adapter body. Stabilize the adapter body with one wrench, the sillcock flange. Now, pull out on the sillcock handle in order
then tighten the compression nut with the other about two full to squeeze a thick bead of silicone caulk between the sillcock
turns past hand tight. flange and the house. Attach the sillcock flange to the house
with No. 8 or No. 10 corrosion-resistant screws.
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Pedestal Sinks
P edestal sinks move in and out of popularity more
frequently than other sink types, but even during
times they aren’t particularly trendy they retain fairly
practical benefit is that they conceal plumbing some
homeowners would prefer not to see.
Pedestal sinks are mounted in two ways. Most of
stable demand. You’ll find them most frequently the more inexpensive ones you’ll find at home stores
in small half baths, where their little footprint are hung in the manner of wall-hung sinks. The
makes them an efficient choice. Designers are also pedestal is actually installed after the sink is hung and
discovering the appeal of tandem pedestal sinks of its purpose is only decorative. But other pedestal sinks
late, where the smaller profiles allow for his-and-hers (typically on the higher end of the design scale) have
sinks that don’t dominate visually. structurally important pedestals that do most or all of
The primary drawback to pedestal sinks is the bearing for the sink.
that they don’t offer any storage. Their chief
Pedestal sinks are available in a variety of styles and are a perfect fit for small half baths. They keep plumbing hidden, lending a neat,
contained look to the bathroom.
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■ How to Install a Pedestal Sink
1 2
Wall surface
show cut away
for clarity
Install 2 × 4 blocking between the wall studs, behind the Set the basin and pedestal in position and brace it with 2 ×
planned sink location. Cover the wall with water-resistant drywall. 4s. Outline the top of the basin on the wall, and mark the base
Waste and supply lines may need to be moved, depending of the pedestal on the floor. Mark reference points on the wall
on the sink. and floor through the mounting holes found on the back of the
sink and the bottom of the pedestal.
3 4 5
Set aside the basin and pedestal. Attach the faucet, then set the sink Hook up the drain and supply fittings.
Drill pilot holes in the wall and floor at on the pedestal. Align the holes in the Caulk between the back of the sink and
the reference points, then reposition back of the sink with the pilot holes the wall when installation is finished.
the pedestal. Anchor the pedestal to drilled in the wall, then drive lag screws
the floor with lag screws. and washers into the wall brace using
a ratchet wrench. Do not overtighten
the screws.
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Wall-Hung Vanities
T hink of a wall-mounted sink or vanity cabinet
and you’re likely to conjure up images of public
restrooms where these conveniences are installed to
the presentation; others look like standard vanities,
just without legs. Install wall-hung sinks and vanities
by attaching them securely to studs or wood blocking.
improve access for floor cleaning. However, wall-hung
sinks and vanities made for home use are very
different from the commercial installations. Tools & Materials 쑺
Often boasting high design, beautiful modern
vanities and sinks come in a variety of styles and Studfinder Level
materials, including wood, metal, and glass. Some Drill Vanity
attach with decorative wall brackets that are part of
Today’s wall-hung sinks are stylish and attractive, but they require mounting into studs or added blocking to keep them secure.
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■ How to Install a Wall-Hung Vanity Base
1 2
Remove the existing sink or fixture and inspect the wall Hold the sink or cabinet in the installation area and
framing. Also determine if plumbing supply and waste lines will check to see if the studs align with the sink or sink bracket
need to be moved to accommodate the dimensions of the new mounting holes. If they do, skip to step 3. If the studs do not
fixture. Locate the studs in the sink location with a stud finder. align, remove the wallboard behind the mounting area. Install
2 × 6 blocking between studs at the locations of the mounting
screws. Replace and repair wallboard.
3 4
Blocking
Mark the locations of the mounting holes on the wall using Drill pilot holes at the marks. Have a helper hold the vanity
a template or by supporting the sink or vanity against the wall in place while you drive the mounting screws. Hook up the
with a temporary brace (made here from scrap 2 × 4s) and plumbing (see pages 140 to 141).
marking through the mounting holes.
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Vessel Sinks
T he vessel sink harkens back to the days of
washstands and washbowls. Whether it’s round,
square, or oval, shallow or deep, the vessel sink offers
splashing, spouts should directly flow to the center of
the vessel, not down the side. Make sure your faucet
is compatible with your vessel choice. Look for a
great opportunity for creativity and proudly displays centerset or single-handle model if you’ll be custom
its style. Vessel sinks are a perfect choice for a powder drilling the countertop—you only need to drill one
room, where they will have high visibility. faucet hole.
Most vessel sinks can be installed on any flat
surface—from a granite countertop to a wall-mounted
vanity to an antique dresser. Some sinks are designed Tools & Materials 쑺
to contact the mounting surface only at the drain
flange. Others are made to be partially embedded in Jigsaw Drill
the surface. Take care to follow the manufacturer’s Trowel Vanity or countertop
instructions for cutting holes for sinks and faucets. Pliers Vessel sink
A beautiful vessel sink demands an equally Wrench Pop-up drain
attractive faucet. Select a tall spout mounted on the Caulk gun and caulk P-trap and drain kit
countertop or vanity top or a wall-mounted spout to Sponge Faucet
accommodate the height of the vessel. To minimize Phillips screwdriver
Vessel sinks are available in countless styles and materials, shapes, and sizes. Their one commonality is that they all need to be
installed on a flat surface.
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■ Vessel Sink Options
This glass vessel sink embedded in a “floating” glass The natural stone vessel sink blends elegantly into the
countertop is a stunning contrast to the strong and attractive stone countertop and is enhanced by the sleek faucet and
wood frame anchoring it to the wall. round mirror.
The stone vessel sink is complemented by the wall-hung Vitreous china with a glazed enamel finish is an economical
faucet. The rich wood vanity on which it’s perched adds and durable choice for a vessel sink (although it is less durable
warmth to the room. than stone). Because of the flexibility of both the material
and the glaze, the design options are virtually unlimited with
vitreous china.
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■ How to Install a Vessel Sink
1 2
Mounting
stud
Inlet hoses
Secure the vanity cabinet or other countertop that you’ll be Begin hooking up the faucet. Insert the brass mounting
using to mount the vessel sink (see pages 140 to 141). stud into the threaded hole in the faucet base with the slotted
end facing out. Hand tighten, and then use a screwdriver to
tighten another half turn. Insert the inlet hoses into the faucet
body and hand tighten. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten
another half turn. Do not overtighten.
3 4
Stud O-ring
Riser ring
Metal plate
Stud nut Gasket
Place the riser ring on top of the O-ring over the faucet To install the sink and pop-up drain, first place the
cutout in the countertop. From underneath, slide the rubber small metal ring between two O-rings and place over the
gasket and the metal plate over the mounting stud. Thread the drain cutout.
mounting stud nut onto the mounting stud and hand tighten.
Use an adjustable wrench to tighten another half turn.
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5 6
Place the vessel bowl on top of the O-rings. In this Put the small rubber gasket over the drain hole in the
installation, the vessel is not bonded to the countertop. vessel. From the top, push the pop-up assembly through
the drain hole.
7 8
Slip nut
Gasket
Tailpiece
Drain arm
Mounting nut
Escutcheon
Drum
From underneath, push the large rubber gasket onto the Install the drum trap. Loosen the rings on the top and
threaded portion of the pop-up assembly. Thread the nut onto outlet of the drum trap. Slide the drum trap top hole over the
the pop-up assembly and tighten. Use an adjustable wrench tailpiece. Slide the drain arm into the side outlet, with the flat
or basin wrench to tighten an additional half turn. Thread the side of the rubber gasket facing away from the trap. Insert the
tailpiece onto the pop-up assembly. drain arm into the wall outlet. Hand tighten the rings.
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Integral Vanity Tops
M ost bathroom countertops installed today are
integral (one-piece) sink-countertop units
made from cultured marble or other solid materials,
like solid surfacing. Integral sink-countertops are
convenient, and many are inexpensive, but style and
color options are limited.
Some remodelers and designers still prefer the
distinctive look of a custom-built countertop with
a self-rimming sink basin, which gives you a much
greater selection of styles and colors. Installing a
self-rimming sink is very simple.
For more information regarding countertops and
sinks, refer to page 132. For information on installing
vanity cabinets see pages 140 to 141.
Pencil Cardboard
Scissors Masking tape
Carpenter’s level Plumber’s putty
Screwdriver Lag screws
Channel-type pliers Tub and tile caulk Integral sink-countertops are made in standard sizes to fit
Ratchet wrench Pipe dope common vanity widths. Because the sink and countertop are
Basin wrench cast from the same material, integral sink-countertops do not
leak, and do not require extensive caulking and sealing.
■ How to Install a Vanity Cabinet
Sealing
1 2 gasket
3
Locknut
Pop-up Drain
drain lever tailpiece
Drain flange Tailpiece
extension
Set the sink-countertop unit onto Thread the locknut and sealing Place a small amount of pipe dope on
sawhorses. Attach the faucet and slip gasket onto the drain tailpiece, then all threads. Apply a layer of tub and tile
the drain lever through the faucet body. insert the tailpiece into the drain caulk (or adhesive, if specified by the
Place a ring of plumber’s putty around opening and screw it onto the drain countertop manufacturer) to the top
the drain flange, then insert the flange in flange. Tighten the locknut securely. edges of the cabinet vanity, and to any
the drain opening. Attach the tailpiece extension. Insert corner braces.
the pop-up stopper linkage.
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4 5
Center the sink-countertop unit over the vanity so the Cabinets with corner braces: Secure the countertop to
overhang is equal on both sides and the backsplash of the the cabinet by driving a mounting screw through each corner
countertop is flush with the wall. Press the countertop evenly brace and up into the countertop. Note: Cultured marble
into the caulk. and other hard countertops require predrilling and a plastic
screw sleeve.
6 Supply tube
7
Drain
tailpiece
Drain
arm
Drain
stub-out
Slip
nuts
P-trap
Attach the drain arm to the drain stub-out in the wall, using Seal the gap between the backsplash and the wall with tub
a slip nut. Attach one end of the P-trap to the drain arm, and and tile caulk.
the other to the tailpiece of the sink drain, using slip nuts.
Connect supply tubes to the faucet tailpieces.
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Kitchen Sinks
M ost drop-in, self-rimming kitchen sinks are
easily installed.
Drop-in sinks for do-it-yourself installation
If you are replacing a sink, but not the countertop,
make sure the new sink is the same size or larger. All old
silicone caulk residue must be removed with acetone or
are made from cast iron coated with enamel, denatured alcohol, or else the new caulk will not stick.
stainless steel, enameled steel, acrylic, fiberglass,
or resin composites. Because cast-iron sinks are
heavy, their weight holds them in place and they Tools & Materials 쑺
require no mounting hardware. Except for the
heavy lifting, they are easy to install. Stainless Caulk gun Plumber’s putty
steel and enameled-steel sinks weigh less than Spud wrench or silicone caulk
cast-iron and most require mounting brackets on Screwdriver Mounting clips
the underside of the countertop. Some acrylic and Sink Jigsaw
resin sinks rely on silicone caulk to hold Sink frame Pen or pencil
them in place.
Shopping Tips 쑺
• When purchasing a sink, you also need to buy strainer bodies and baskets, sink clips, and a drain trap kit.
• Look for basin dividers that are lower than the sink rim—this reduces splashing.
• Drain holes in the back or to the side make for more usable space under the sink.
• When choosing a sink, make sure the predrilled openings will fit your faucet.
Drop-in sinks, also known as self-rimming sinks, have a wide sink flange that extends beyond the edges of the sink cutout. They
also have a wide back flange to which the faucet is mounted directly.
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■ How to Install a Self-Rimming Sink
1 2 3
Invert the sink and trace around the Drill a starter hole and cut out the Attach as much of the plumbing as
edges as a reference for making the sink opening with a jigsaw. Cut right makes sense to install prior to setting
sink cutout cutting lines, which should up to the line. Because the sink flange the sink into the opening. Having access
be parallel to the outlines, but about 1" fits over the edges of the cutout, the to the underside of the flange is a
inside of them to create a 1" ledge. If opening doesn’t need to be perfect, but great help when it comes to attaching
your sink comes with a template for as always you should try to do a nice, the faucet body, sprayer, and strainer,
the cutout, use it. neat job. in particular.
4 5 6
Apply a bead of silicone caulk Place the sink in the opening. Try For sinks with mounting clips,
around the edges of the sink opening. to get the sink centered right away tighten the clips from below using a
The sink flange most likely is not flat, so so you don’t need to move it around screwdriver or wrench (depending on
try and apply the caulk in the area that and disturb the caulk, which can break the type of clip your sink has). There
will make contact with the flange. the seal. If you are installing a heavy should be at least three clips on every
cast-iron sink, it’s best to leave the side. Don’t overtighten the clips—this
strainers off so you can grab onto the can cause the sink flange to flatten or
sink at the drain openings. become warped.
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Undermount Sinks
U ndermounted sinks have become quite popular in
contemporary kitchens for reasons that are both
practical and aesthetic. On the aesthetic side, they
and concrete are good candidates for undermounting.
Post-form and any laminated or tiled countertops are
not. (Some new products that claim to seal countertop
look updated and sleek. They are easier to clean than substrate edges around a sink opening are emerging,
rimmed sinks because you eliminate that area around but are not yet proven or readily available.)
the rim seal where stuff always collects.
Most sink manufacturers make sinks that are
designed for undermounting, and if you don’t mind
paying the $100 to $200 premium, a true undermount Tools & Materials 쑺
sink is the best choice. But if your decision making is
driven more by your frugal side, you can undermount 2HP or larger Belt sander
a self-rimming (drop-in) stainless steel sink with little plunge router Solid-surface scraps
difficulty using readily available undermount clips.
1
⁄2" template following Solid-surface seam
(Self-rimmers also come in a much wider range of router bit adhesive with
styles.) Note: You can undermount any sink you wish, Roundover bit applicator gun
including heavy cast iron models, if you support the sink MDF or particleboard Denatured alcohol
from below instead of hanging it from clips. for template Undermount sink
Not all countertops are suitable for undermounting Jigsaw clip hardware
a sink. The countertop material needs to be contiguous Drill and bits Silicone caulk
in nature. That is, the edges that are created when Abrasive pads Pipe clamps
you cut through it need to be of the same material Laminate trimmer Pad sander
as the surface. Solid-surface, granite, butcher block,
Before After
Undermounted sinks have a sleek appearance and make clean up easy, but they are only a good idea in countertops that have
a solid construction, such as solid surfacing, stone, quartz, or butcher block. Laminate and tile countertops are not compatible with
undermounted sinks.
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Amateurs and Solid-surface 쑺
Solid-surface countertop material is
generally installed only by certified
installers. But a simple job like mounting
a non-solid-surface undermount sink can
be done by a skilled amateur if you have
access to adhesive and an applicator gun.
■ How to Make a Sink Cutout Template
If you are undermounting a
1 self-rimming sink, do not use the sink
template provided by the manufacturer.
Instead, make your own custom router
template to use with a router and
pattern-following bit. The template should
be sized and shaped so the cutout you
make with your pattern-following bit is
the same shape and about 1⁄8" larger than
the basin opening in each direction. You
can plot the cutout directly onto a piece
of MDF, or make a preliminary paper or
cardboard template and trace it onto
the MDF.
(continued)
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2 3
Drill a few starter holes just inside the template outline to Connect the starter holes by cutting just inside the cutout
create access for your jigsaw blade. If the cutout has sharp line with a jigsaw. You can use a straightedge cutting
radii at the corners, look for a bit or hole cutter of the same guide for straight runs if you have little confidence in your
radius and carefully drill out the corners. ability to cut straight.
4
Use a belt sander or pad sander to smooth out the cutting lines and to remove material until the cutout hits the lines precisely.
A drum sander attachment mounted in a power drill is useful for smoothing out rounded corners.
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■ How to Undermount a Sink
1 2
Remove the countertop from the cabinet and transport Chuck a two-fluted, 1⁄8" pattern-following bit (preferably
it to a work area with good light and ventilation. Set the carbide tipped) with a 1⁄2" shank into a plunge router with a
countertop section on sawhorses and then clamp the router minimum motor size of 2HP. Retract the bit and position the
template securely so the opening is centered exactly over the router so the bit is an inch or so away from the edge of the
planned cutout area. Make sure the router bit won’t be cutting template. Turn the router on and let it develop to full velocity.
into your work area. Then, plunge the router bit into the countertop material until
the bit breaks all the way through.
Pull the router bit toward the template
3 edge until the bit sleeve contacts the edge,
then slowly cut through the countertop,
following the template. Pace is important
here: too fast will cause chatter, too slow
will cause burning or melting. Cut three
continuous sides of the opening, hugging
the template edge.
(continued)
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4 5
After routing three side openings, stop routing and If the sink outline has any chatter or the cutout is not
screw a support board to the waste piece. The ends of the perfectly smooth, make another pass with a straight bit before
support board should extend onto the template. Position you remove the template. Remove the template and make
the support so it is near the center, but not in the way for a 1⁄8" roundover cut on both the top and bottom of the sink
completing the fourth side of the cut. Then finish the cut. The cutout. If you know exactly where your faucet hole or holes
support board will prevent the waste from breaking off as the need to be, cut them with a hole saw and round over their
cut nears completion. tops and bottoms as well.
It’s easier to mount the sink on the
6 countertop before you reinstall it on the
cabinet. Cut several 1 × 1 mounting blocks
from the solid-surface waste cutout.
You’ll also need to purchase some seam
adhesive to glue the mounting blocks to
the underside of the countertop. After
they’re cut, break all the block edges
with a stationary sander or by clamping
a belt sander belt-side up and using it as
a stationary sander (breaking the edges
reduces the chance that the blocks
will crack).
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7 8
Clean the blocks and the underside of the solid-surface Drill 1⁄4" dia. × 3⁄8" deep pilot holes for the sink clips into
around the cutouts with denatured alcohol. Apply solid-surface each mounting block. The holes should be in the centers of the
seam adhesive to the blocks and bond them to the underside of mounting blocks. Tap the brass inserts for the mounting clips
the countertop, set back 3⁄4" from the cutout. Install three blocks into the holes in the mounting blocks.
along the long sides of the cutout and two on the front-to-back
sides. Clamp the blocks while the adhesive sets up.
Clean the sink rim and the underside
9 of the countertop with denatured alcohol.
When the alcohol has dried, apply a bead
of 100 percent silicone adhesive caulk to
the sink rim. Carefully center the sink over
the opening and press it in place. Hand
tighten the wing nuts onto the mounting
nuts to secure the clips that hold the sink
bowl. Replace the countertop and hook up
the faucet and drain. For information on
installing a kitchen faucet see
pages 142 to 143.
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Standpipe Drains
I n many houses, the washing machine drain hose
is hung loosely over the side of the utility sink,
but this configuration is frowned upon by building
machine, but not shorter than 34". Hose bibs
are installed in the hot and cold supply lines at
the utility sink to provide the water supply to the
codes. Instead, you should install a standpipe drain washing machine.
that allows the washing machine to drain directly
into the utility sink’s drain line. Standpipes with
attached P-traps can be purchased at many home E
centers. A 2"-pipe is required by most building F
codes. The top of the standpipe should be higher A
than the highest water level in the washing
Tools & Materials 쑺
G
Reciprocating saw Pipe strap
Utility knife Hose bibs
Waste Y-fitting Solder
Primer & solvent glue Threaded T-fittings C D
90° elbow Torch
2" standpipe with trap Sheet metal B
2 × 4 backer Teflon tape A washing machine with standpipe drain: washing machine
21⁄2" deck screws Rubber supply hose drain hose (A), 2" standpipe drain with trap (B), waste line (C),
1⁄2" screws utility sink drain pipe (D), hot and cold supply lines with hose bibs
(E), rubber supply hoses to washing machine (F), and utility sink (G).
■ How to Install a Washing Machine Standpipe Drain
1 2
Utility sink
drain pipe
Measure and mark the size and location of a waste Use a utility knife to remove rough burrs on the cut ends of
Y-fitting in the drain line. Remove the marked section, using the pipe. Dry-fit the waste Y-fitting into the drain line to make
a reciprocating saw. Make cuts as straight as possible. sure it fits properly, then attach the Y-fitting using primer and
solvent glue.
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3 4
Dry-fit a 90° elbow and a 2" standpipe with trap to the waste Attach a 2 × 4 backer behind the top of the standpipe for
Y-fitting. Make sure the standpipe is taller than the highest support, using 21⁄2" deck screws. Fasten standpipe to the wood
water level in the washing machine (a minimum of 34"). support, using a length of pipe strap and 1⁄2" screws. Insert the
Solvent-glue all the pipes in place. washing machine’s rubber drain hose into the standpipe.
■ How to Make Water Supply Connections
1 2 From washer
To washer
Install hose bibs in the utility sink supply lines. Turn off Recessed washing machine boxes are available for
water main and drain pipes. Cut into each supply pipe 6" to 12" finished utility rooms. The supply pipes and standpipe drain
from faucet. Solder threaded T-fittings into each supply line. run to one central location. The washing machine’s hose bibs,
Protect wood from torch flame with two layers of sheet metal. supply hoses, and drain hose must remain easily accessible.
Wrap Teflon tape around threads of hose bibs, and screw them
into T-fittings. Connect a rubber supply hose from each bib to
the appropriate intake port on the washing machine.
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Plumbing
Installations
R unning new water supply and drain lines is an
entirely different pursuit from hooking up fixtures,
and in many ways it is more complicated. Because
you are installing pipes where none existed before,
the need to know all the applicable plumbing codes
is critical (as opposed to simply making a one-for-one
fixture swap-out). Great care also must be taken to cut
new pipes to exactly the right length and make certain
all joints are watertight and made with the correct
fittings or products.
Choosing the best pipe materials for your job
is an important part of the project. In most cases,
the best advice is to use the same material that is
already present. But you may choose to use a different
material as long as you use the correct transition
fittings. For example, if you’re running a new supply
line, you may choose PEX over copper because it is
so fast and easy to install. Or, you may choose CPVC
over copper for cost reasons.
In this chapter:
• Installation Basics
• Plumbing Routes
• Master Bath
• Basement Bath
• Half Bath
• Kitchen
• New Gas Lines
■ 153HI0552_CGPlumb_120-161_.indd 153 Provision (CPI)•CG To Plumbing HI 0552 TEXT 3/12/08 4:47:17 PM CD308-25_4264 1st Proof BLACK
Installation Basics
A major plumbing project is a complicated affair
that often requires demolition and carpentry
skills. Bathroom or kitchen plumbing may be unusable
a reputable retailer that will allow you to return
leftover fittings for credit.
The how-to projects on the following pages
for several days while completing the work, so make demonstrate standard plumbing techniques but should
sure you have a backup bathroom or kitchen space to not be used as a literal blueprint for your own work.
use during this time. Pipe and fitting sizes, fixture layout, and pipe routing
To ensure that your project goes quickly, always will always vary according to individual circumstances.
buy plenty of pipe and fittings—at least 25% more When planning your project, carefully read all the
than you think you need. Making several extra trips information in the planning section. Before you begin
to the building center is a nuisance and can add work, create a detailed plumbing plan to guide your
many hours to your project. Always purchase from work and help you obtain the required permits.
Use 2 × 6 studs to frame “wet walls” when constructing a new bathroom or kitchen. Thicker walls provide more room to run
drain pipes and main waste-vent stacks, making installation much easier.
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■ Installing New Plumbing
Use masking tape to mark the locations of fixtures and pipes on the walls and floors. Read the layout specifications that come
with each sink, tub, or toilet, then mark the drain and supply lines accordingly. Position the fixtures on the floor, and outline them
with tape. Measure and adjust until the arrangement is comfortable to you and meets minimum clearance specifications. If you
are working in a finished room, prevent damage to wallpaper or paint by using self-adhesive notes to mark the walls.
Consider the location of cabinets when roughing in the Install control valves at the points where the new branch
water supply and drain stub-outs. You may want to temporarily supply lines meet the main distribution pipes. By installing
position the cabinets in their final locations before completing valves, you can continue to supply the rest of the house with
the drain and water supply runs. water while you are working on the new branches.
(continued)
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Tip 쑺
Framing Maximum Maximum The framing member chart shows the maximum sizes for
Member Hole Size Notch Size holes and notches that can be cut into studs and joists
2 × 4 loadbearing stud 17⁄16" diameter 7
⁄8" deep when running pipes. Where possible, use notches rather
than bored holes, because pipe installation is usually
2 × 4 non-loadbearing stud 21⁄2" diameter 17⁄16" deep easier. When boring holes, there must be at least 5⁄8" of
2 × 6 loadbearing stud 21⁄4" diameter 13⁄8" deep wood between the edge of a stud and the hole, and at
least 2" between the edge of a joist and the hole. Joists
2 × 6 non-loadbearing stud 35⁄16" diameter 23⁄16" deep
can be notched only in the end 1⁄3 of the overall span;
2 × 6 joists 11⁄2" diameter 7
⁄8" deep never in the middle 1⁄3 of the joist. When two pipes are run
2 × 8 joists 23⁄8" diameter 11⁄4" deep through a stud, the pipes should be stacked one over the
other, never side by side.
2 × 10 joists 31⁄16" diameter 11⁄2" deep
2 × 12 joists 33⁄4" diameter 17⁄8" deep
Create access panels so that in the future you will be able Protect pipes from punctures if they are less than 11⁄4"
to service fixture fittings and shutoff valves located inside the from the front face of wall studs or joists by attaching metal
walls. Frame an opening between studs, then trim the opening protector plates to the framing members.
with wood moldings. Cover the opening with a removable
plywood panel the same thickness as the wall surface, then
finish it to match the surrounding walls.
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Test-fit materials before solvent-gluing or soldering joints. Support pipes adequately. Horizontal and vertical runs of
Test-fitting ensures that you have the correct fittings and DWV and water supply pipe must be supported at minimum
enough pipe to do the job, and can help you avoid lengthy intervals, which are specified by your local plumbing codes.
delays during installation. A variety of metal and plastic materials are available for
supporting plumbing pipes (pages 272 to 273).
Use plastic bushings to help hold plumbing pipes securely Install extra T-fittings on new drain and vent lines so that
in holes bored through wall plates, studs, and joists. Bushings you can pressure-test the system when the building inspector
can help to cushion the pipes, preventing wear and reducing reviews your installation. A new DWV line should have these
rattling. Always use manufacturer-recommended bushings extra T-fittings near the points where the new branch drains
with metal wall studs (inset). and vent pipes reach the main waste-vent stack.
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Planning Plumbing Routes
T he first, and perhaps most important, step when
replacing old plumbing is to decide how and
where to run the new pipes. Since the stud cavities
and joist spaces are often covered with finished wall
surfaces, finding routes for running new pipes can
be challenging.
When planning pipe routes, choose straight, easy
pathways whenever possible. Rather than running
water supply pipes around wall corners and through
studs, for example, it may be easiest to run them
straight up wall cavities from the basement. Instead
of running a bathtub drain across floor joists, run it
straight down into the basement, where the branch
drain can be easily extended underneath the joists to
the main waste-vent stack.
In some situations, it is most practical to route the
new pipes in wall and floor cavities that already hold
plumbing pipes, since these spaces are often framed
to provide long, unobstructed runs. A detailed map
of your plumbing system can be very helpful when
planning routes for new plumbing pipes (pages 158 to
161).
To maximize their profits, plumbing contractors
generally try to avoid opening walls or changing
wall framing when installing new plumbing.
But the do-it-yourselfer does not have these
limitations. Faced with the difficulty of running
pipes through enclosed spaces, you may find it
easiest to remove wall surfaces or to create a newly
framed space for running new pipes.
On these pages, you will see some common
methods used to create pathways for replacing old
pipes with new plumbing.
Build a framed chase. A chase is a false wall created to
provide space for new plumbing pipes. It is especially effective
for installing a new main waste-vent stack. On a two-story
house, chases can be stacked one over the other on each floor
in order to run plumbing from the basement to the attic. Once
plumbing is completed and inspected, the chase is covered
with wallboard and finished to match the room.
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■ Planning Pipe Routes
Use existing access panels to disconnect fixtures and Convert a laundry chute into a channel for running
remove old pipes. Plan the location of new fixtures and pipe new plumbing pipes. The door of the chute can be used
runs to make use of existing access panels, minimizing the to provide access to control valves, or it can be removed
amount of demolition and repair work you will need to do. and covered with wall materials, then finished to match the
surrounding wall.
Run pipes inside a closet. If they are unobtrusive, pipes can Remove suspended ceiling panels to route new plumbing
be left exposed at the back of the closet. Or, you can frame a pipes in joist cavities. Or, you can route pipes across a standard
chase to hide the pipes after the installation is completed. plaster or wallboard ceiling, then construct a false ceiling
to cover the installation, provided there is adequate height.
Most building codes require a minimum of 7 ft. from floor
to finished ceiling.
(continued)
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Use a drill bit extension and spade bit or hole saw to drill Look for “wet walls.” Walls that hold old plumbing pipes can
through wall plates from unfinished attic or basement spaces be good choices for running long vertical runs of new pipe.
above or below the wall. These spaces are usually open, without obstacles such as
fireblocks and insulation.
Probe wall and floor cavities with a long piece of plastic pipe to ensure that a clear pathway exists for running new pipe (left
photo). Once you have established a route using the narrow pipe, you can use the pipe as a guide when running larger drain pipes
up into the wall (right photo).
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Remove flooring when necessary. Because replacing toilet Remove wall surfaces when access from above or below
and bathtub drains usually requires that you remove sections the wall is not possible. This demolition work can range from
of floor, a full plumbing replacement job is often done in cutting narrow channels in plaster or wallboard to removing
conjunction with a complete bathroom remodeling project. the entire wall surface. Remove wall surfaces back to the
centers of adjoining studs; the exposed studs provide a nailing
surface for attaching repair materials once the plumbing
project is completed.
Create a detailed map showing the planned route for your new plumbing pipes. Such a map can help you get your plans
approved by the inspector, and it makes work much simpler. If you have already mapped your existing plumbing system (pages 158
to 161), those drawings can be used to plan new pipe routes.
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Master Bath
A large bathroom has more plumbing fixtures and
consumes more water than any other room in
your house. For this reason, a master bath has special
plumbing needs.
Frame bathroom “wet walls” with 2 × 6 studs,
to provide plenty of room for running 3" pipes and
fittings. If your bathroom includes a heavy whirlpool
tub, you will likely need to strengthen the floor by
installing “sister” joists alongside the existing floor joists
underneath the tub. Check with your local codes.
For convenience, our project is divided into the
following sequences:
• How to Install DWV Pipes for the Toilet & Sink
(pages 163 to 165) Our demonstration bathroom is a second-story master
• How to Install DWV Pipes for the Tub & Shower bath. We are installing a 3" vertical drain pipe to service the
toilet and the vanity sink, and a 2" vertical pipe to handle the
(pages 160 to 167)
tub and shower drains. The branch drains for the sink and
• How to Connect Drain Pipes to a Main bathtub are 11⁄2" pipes—for the shower, 2" pipe. Each fixture
Waste-Vent Stack (page 168) has its own vent pipe extending up into the attic, where they
• How to Install the Water Supply Pipes (page 169) are joined together and connected to the main stack.
1 1⁄ 2" 1 1⁄ 2"
vent vent
pipe pipe
1 1⁄ 2"
vent
pipe
1 1⁄ 2"
drain pipe
1 1⁄ 2" drain pipe
3" main waste stack
2"
vent pipe
2" drain pipe
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■ How to Install DWV Pipes for the Toilet & Sink
1 2
Use masking tape to outline the locations of the fixtures Cut out the drain opening for the toilet, using a hole saw.
and pipe runs on the subfloor and walls. Mark the location for Mark and remove a section of flooring around the toilet area,
a 3" vertical drain pipe on the sole plate in the wall behind large enough to provide access for installing the toilet drain
the toilet. Mark a 41⁄2"-diameter circle for the toilet drain on and for running drain pipe from the sink. Use a circular saw
the subfloor. with blade set to the thickness of the flooring to cut through
the subfloor.
3 4
If a floor joist interferes with the toilet drain, cut away a To create a path for the vertical 3" drain pipe, cut a 41⁄2" × 12"
short section of the joist and box-frame the area with double notch in the sole plate of the wall behind the toilet. Make a
headers. The framed opening should be just large enough to similar cutout in the double wall plate at the bottom of the joist
install the toilet and sink drains. cavity. From the basement, locate the point directly below the
cutout by measuring from a reference point, such as the main
waste-vent stack.
(continued)
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5 6
Low-heel
vent 90°
fitting
Y-fitting
Lower the pipe so the bottom end slides through the
opening in the basement ceiling. Support the pipe with vinyl
pipe strap wrapped around the low-heel vent 90° fitting and
screwed to framing members.
7
Measure and cut a length of 3" drain pipe to reach from Use a length of 3" pipe and a 4 × 3 reducing elbow to extend
the bathroom floor cavity to a point flush with the bottom of the drain out to the toilet location. Make sure the drain slopes
the ceiling joists in the basement. Solvent-glue a 3" × 3" × 11⁄2" at least 1⁄4" per foot toward the wall, then support it with pipe
Y-fitting to the top of the pipe, and a low-heel vent 90° fitting strap attached to the joists. Insert a short length of pipe into
above the Y. The branch inlet on the Y should face toward the elbow so it extends at least 2" above the subfloor. After the
the sink location; the front inlet on the low-heel should face new drains are pressure tested, this stub-out will be cut flush
forward. Carefully lower the pipe into the wall cavity. with the subfloor and fitted with a toilet flange.
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8
Waste T
Sweep 90° elbow
Notch out the sole plate and subfloor below the sink location. Cut a length of 11⁄2" plastic drain pipe, then solvent-glue a waste
T to the top of the pipe and a sweep 90° elbow to the bottom. Note: The distance from the subfloor to the center of the waste-T
should be 14" to 18”. The branch of the T should face out, and the discharge on the elbow should face toward the toilet location.
Adjust the pipe so the top edge of the elbow nearly touches the bottom of the sole plate. Anchor it with a 3⁄4"-thick backing board
nailed between the studs.
9 10
Toilet
vent pipe
Dry-fit lengths of 11⁄2" drain pipe and elbows to extend In the top plates of the walls behind the sink and toilet,
the sink drain to the 3" drain pipe behind the toilet. Use a bore 1⁄2"-diameter holes up into the attic. Insert pencils or
right-angle drill to bore holes in joists, if needed. Make sure dowels into the holes, and tape them in place. Enter the attic
the horizontal drain pipe slopes at least 1⁄4" per foot toward and locate the pencils, then clear away insulation and cut
the vertical drain. When satisfied with the layout, solvent-glue 2"-diameter holes for the vertical vent pipes. Cut and install
the pieces together and support the drain pipe with vinyl pipe 11⁄2" vent pipes running from the toilet and sink drain at least
straps attached to the joists. 1 ft. up into the attic.
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■ How to Install DWV Pipes for the Tub & Shower
1 2
On the subfloor, use masking tape to mark the locations If installing a large whirlpool tub, cut away the subfloor to
of the tub and shower, the water supply pipes, and the tub expose the full length of the joists under the tub, then screw or
and shower drains, according to your plumbing plan. Use a bolt a second joist, called a sister, against each existing joist.
jigsaw to cut out a 12" square opening for each drain, and drill Make sure both ends of each joist are supported by load-
1"-diameter holes in the subfloor for each water supply riser. bearing walls.
3 4
2" inlet for
shower drain
1 1⁄ 2" inlet
for tub drain
In a wall adjacent to the tub, establish a route for a 2" Cut and install a vertical 2" drain pipe running from
vertical waste-vent pipe running from basement to attic. basement to the joist cavity adjoining the tub location, using
This pipe should be no more than 31⁄2 ft. from the bathtub the same technique as for the toilet drain (steps 4 to 6, pages
trap. Then, mark a route for the horizontal drain pipe running 171 to 175). At the top of the drain pipe, use assorted fittings to
from the bathtub drain to the waste-vent pipe location. Cut create three inlets: branch inlets for the bathtub and shower
3"-diameter holes through the centers of the joists for the drains and a 11⁄2" top inlet for a vent pipe running to the attic.
bathtub drain.
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5 6
Vent T
Sweep
elbow
Dry-fit a 11⁄2" drain pipe running from the bathtub drain Dry-fit a 2" drain pipe from the shower drain to the vertical
location to the vertical waste-vent pipe in the wall. Make sure waste-vent pipe near the tub. Install a solvent-glued trap at the
the pipe slopes 1⁄4" per foot toward the wall. When satisfied with drain location, cut a hole in the sole plate, and insert a
the layout, solvent-glue the pieces together and support the 2" × 2" × 11⁄2" vent T within 5 ft. of the trap. Make sure the drain
pipe with vinyl pipe straps attached to the joists. If local codes is sloped 1⁄4" per foot downward away from the shower drain.
require vents for each fixture, add a vent pipe and T-fitting. When satisfied with the layout, solvent-glue the pipes together.
7
Cut and install vertical vent pipes for the bathtub and shower, extending up through the wall plates and at least 1 ft. into the
attic. These vent pipes will be connected in the attic to the main waste-vent stack. In our project, the shower vent is a 2" pipe, while
the bathtub vent is a 11⁄2" pipe. When you have completed all the DWV piping, cover large cutouts to sill plates with boards and stuff
fiberglass insulation or use fire-rated foam insulation to create a fire stop.
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■ How to Connect Drain Pipes to a Main Waste-Vent Stack
1 2
In the basement, cut into the main waste-vent stack and Dry-fit Y-fittings with 45° elbows onto the vertical 3" and
install the fittings necessary to connect the 3" toilet-sink drain 2" drain pipes. Position the horizontal drain pipes against the
and the 2" bathtub-shower drain. In our project, we created fittings, and mark them for cutting. When satisfied with the
an assembly made of a waste T-fitting with an extra side inlet layout, solvent-glue the pipes together, then support the pipes
and two short lengths of pipe, then inserted it into the existing every 4 ft. with vinyl pipe straps. Make sure to maintain the
waste-vent stack using banded couplings. Make sure the proper 1⁄4" per foot downward slope in all waste pipes.
T-fittings are positioned so the drain pipes will have the proper
downward slope toward the stack.
■ How to Connect Vent Pipes to a Main Waste-Vent Stack
1 2
In the attic, cut into the main waste-vent stack and install a Use elbows, vent T-fittings, reducers, and lengths of pipe
vent T-fitting, using banded couplings. The side outlet on the as needed to link the new vent pipes to the test T-fitting on
vent T should face the new 2" vent pipe running down to the the main waste-vent stack. Vent pipes can be routed in many
bathroom. Attach a test T-fitting to the vent T. Note: If your ways, but you should make sure the pipes have a slight
stack is cast iron, make sure to adequately support it before downward angle to prevent moisture from collecting in the
cutting into it (pages 300 to 303). pipes. Support the pipes every 4 ft.
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■ How to Install the Water Supply Pipes
1 2
After shutting off the water, cut into existing supply pipes Cut 1" × 4"-high notches around the wall, and extend
and install T-fittings for new branch lines. Notch out studs and the supply pipes to the sink location. Install reducing T-fittings
run copper pipes to the toilet and sink locations. Use an elbow and female-threaded fittings for the sink faucet stub-outs.
and female-threaded fitting to form the toilet stub-out. Once The stub-outs should be positioned about 18" above the floor,
satisfied with the layout, solder the pipes in place. spaced 8" apart. Once satisfied with the layout, solder the
joints, then insert 3⁄4" blocking behind the stub-outs and strap
them in place.
3 4
Extend the water supply pipes to the bathtub and shower. At the shower location, use elbows to create vertical risers
In our project, we removed the subfloor and notched the joists where the shower wet wall will be constructed. The risers
to run 3⁄4" supply pipes from the sink to a whirlpool bathtub, should extend at least 6" above floor level. Support the risers
then to the shower. At the bathtub, we used reducing T-fittings with a 3⁄4" backer board attached between joists. Solder caps
and elbows to create 1⁄2" risers for the tub faucet. Solder caps onto the risers. After the shower stall is constructed, the caps
onto the risers; after the subfloor is replaced, the caps will be will be removed and replaced with shutoff valves.
removed and replaced with shutoff valves.
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Basement Bath
A dding a bathroom to an unfinished basement creates
a host of new opportunities for finishing the rest of
the space. With a convenient bathroom, you can much
more easily justify a downstairs recreation room, a wine
cellar, a home theater, or additional bedrooms. Many
new homes are pre-plumbed with available stub-outs
for plumbing at the time the house is built. More likely,
you’ll need to break up the concrete floor to install new
drain and supply plumbing. This is exactly as much
work as it sounds like, but with a jackhammer and some
help, it is manageable.
Because horizontal plastic pipes cannot be
encased in concrete, they must be laid in the granular
fill beneath the concrete basement floor. Possible
locations for the bathroom, therefore, are limited by
how close the main sewer line is to the floor surface
when it meets the main drain stack. Check local codes Our demonstration bathroom includes a shower, toilet, and
for other specific restrictions in your area. pedestal sink arranged in a line to simplify trenching. A 2" drain
Plan ahead for this project. Once you cut into pipe services the new shower and sink; a 3" pipe services the
the main waste-vent, there can be no drainage in the new toilet. The drain pipes converge at a Y-fitting joined to the
existing main drain. The toilet and sink have individual vent
house until you have fully installed the new branch
pipes that meet inside the wet wall before extending up into
lines and sealed the joints. Make sure you have extra the attic, where they join the main waste-vent stack.
pipe and fittings on hand.
Sawing and jackhammering concrete (you’ll have
to do this to run the new pipe line) produces large
quantities of dust. Use plastic sheeting to block off
other portions of the basement, and wear approved
particulate dust masks. Vent pipes
Tools & Materials 쑺
Duct tape 2 × 6 lumber
Concrete or circular saw Duct tape
Cold chisel Riser clamps
Hand maul or plastic stack
Plastic sheeting TY combo
Chalk line Primer
Jackhammer Solvent glue
Work & rubber gloves Banded coupling
Eye & ear protection Rags
Dust mask Concrete
Plastic bags Trowel Drain pipes
4-ft. level Fiberglass insulation
Reciprocating saw Power-actuated Main stack
2 × 4 lumber nailer
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■ How to Plumb a Basement Bath
1 2 Waste-vent
stack
Wet wall
location
Mark the proposed location of the basement bathroom on Cut out the area around the main stack. Use a concrete
the basement floor, using tape. Include the walls, wet wall, and saw or a circular saw with a masonry blade to score a
fixture locations. The easiest configuration is to install all the 24" × 24" square cutting line around the waste-vent stack. The
fixtures against the wet wall, which will contain the water supply cut should be at least 1" deep.
and vents. The drain lines should run parallel to the wet wall in
the most direct route to the main waste-vent stack. Mark the
drain line location (typically around 6" out from the wet wall).
3 4
Remove concrete and dirt around the main stack. Using Excavate the drainline trench. Enclose the work area with
a cold chisel and hand maul, strike along the scored cutting lines plastic sheeting to protect the rest of the house from concrete
to chip out the concrete around the main soil stack. If necessary, dust. Use a chalk line to lay out a 24"-wide trench centered
break up the concrete within the square so it can be removed. over the new branch drain location. Score along the lines with
Take care not to damage the pipe. Excavate within the square to a concrete saw or a circular saw with a masonry blade.
determine the depth of the sewer line where it meets the main
stack. Tip: Calculate the distance you want the new branch drain
to run and multiply by 1⁄4". Add the thickness of concrete floor to
this number to find the minimum depth the sewer line must be
to accommodate your layout plan. If you excavate an inch or two
past this depth, there is no need to dig farther.
(continued)
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5 6
1" spacer
Use a jackhammer to break up the concrete in the trench, Create a flat-bottomed trench that slopes toward the main
taking care not to damage any of the existing plumbing lines. stack at 1⁄4" per foot. The soil will hold up the drain lines, so it
Wear gloves, eye and ear protection, and a dust mask. Remove is important to create an even surface. Use a hand tamper to
the concrete for disposal. Remove dirt (technically called tamp down the soil if it has been disturbed. Tape a 1" spacer
granular fill) in the trench, starting at the main waste-vent to the end of a 4-ft. level to create a handy measuring tool for
stack. checking the proper slope. Set the soil aside to use for back fill.
7 8
Cleanout
Cut the drain line or main stack (depending on how deep Cut into the stack above the cleanout, and remove the
the drain line is) using a reciprocating saw (or a snap cutter). pipe and fittings. Wear rubber gloves, and have a large plastic
Support the main waste-vent stack before cutting. Use a 2 x bag and rags ready, as old pipes and fittings may be coated
4 and duct tape for a plastic stack, or riser clamps for a cast with sewer sludge. Remember that no waste water can flow in
iron stack. If cutting the horizontal drain line, cut as close as the house while the pipes are cut open. Turn off the water and
possible to the stack. drain toilets to prevent accidental use.
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9 10
New cleanout
TY combo
Cut and test-fit a new cleanout and long sweep TY combo Clean the outside of the old pipes thoroughly and apply
assembly, dry-fitting it to the drain stack and the horizontal primer. Also apply primer and solvent glue to the female
drain line to the street. Make any needed adjustments surfaces of the union fittings in the assembly. Slide the fitting
and then solvent-glue the fittings and new pipe into a assembly over the primed ends of the drain stack and the
single assembly. drain line at the same time. This requires a little bit of play
in one or both of the lines so you can manipulate the new
assembly. If your existing pipes will not move at all, you’ll need
to use a banded coupling on the drain stack to seal the gap.
11 Vent
Vent Main stack
Sink drain
Shower drain
Toilet drain
Cut and fit the components of the new drain line one piece at a time, starting at the stack. Use strings or boards to outline the
wet wall, so vent placement is correct. Drain lines underground must be a minimum of 2". Use 3" × 2" reducing Ys to tie the shower
drain line and the sink drain line into the toilet drain line. Install vertical drain and vent lines that are long enough to protrude well
above the level of the finished floor.
(continued)
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12 13
Check for leaks by pouring water into each new drain pipe. If Backfill around the pipes with the soil dug from the
the joints appear sound, contact your building department and trench. Mix and pour new concrete to cover the trench,
arrange for your inspection (you must do this prior to covering and trowel smooth. Allow the concrete to cure for 3 days.
the pipes). Plug the pipe openings with rags to prevent sewer Some municipalities may require that isolation membrane be
gas from escaping. Note: Some local municipalities require an wrapped around vertical pipes where they will be surrounded
air test as well. by concrete—check with your local inspector.
14 15
Build the wet wall from 2 × 6 lumber. The sill plate should Run 2" vent pipes through notches in the studs. Assemble
be pressure treated, but the other members may be SPF. Notch with vent T and 90° fittings. The 2" pipes are larger than
the sill plate so the vent pipes clear it easily. Use masonry required, but using the same size as the drain lines eliminates
anchors or concrete nails and a powder-actuated nailer to the need for reducing fittings, and makes for less waste. The
attach the plate. 90° fittings are typically less expensive than the vent elbows.
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16 17 Pipe hangers
Route the vent pipe to a point beneath a wall cavity running Run vent pipe up through the floors above and either
from the basement to the attic. Or, if there is another vent directly out through the roof or tie it to another vent pipe in the
line closer that you can tie into (not very likely), go ahead and attic. Remove sections of wall surface as needed to bore holes
do that. for running the vent pipe through wall plates. Feed the vent
pipe up into the wall cavity from the basement. Wedge the
vent pipe in place while you solvent-glue the fittings. Support
the vent pipe at each floor with plastic pipe hangers installed
horizontally. Stuff fiberglass insulation into holes around pipes.
Do not replace any wallcoverings until you have had your
final inspection.
Install the water supply plumbing.
18 Compared to the drain-vent plumbing,
this will seem remarkably easy. Follow the
instructions on page 169, but adjust the
layout to conform to your fixtures.
Nail
guard
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Half Bath
A first-story half bath is easy to install when located
behind a kitchen or existing bathroom, because
you can take advantage of accessible supply and DWV
lines. It is possible to add a half bath on an upper
story or in a location distant from existing plumbing,
but the complexity and cost of the project may be
increased considerably.
Be sure that the new fixtures are adequately
vented. We vented the pedestal sink with a pipe that
runs up the wall a few feet before turning to join
the main stack. However, if there are higher fixtures
draining into the main stack, you would be required
to run the vent up to a point at least 6" above the
highest fixture before splicing it into the main stack
or an existing vent pipe. When the toilet is located In this half bath, the toilet and sink are close to the main
within 6 ft. of the stack, as in our design, it requires stack for ease of installation, but are spaced far enough apart
to meet minimum allowed distances between fixtures. Check
no additional vent pipe.
your local code for any restrictions in your area. Generally,
The techniques for plumbing a half bath are there should be at least 15" from the center of the toilet
similar to those used for a master bathroom. Refer to drain to a side wall or fixture, and a minimum of 21" of space
pages 162 to 177 for more detailed information. between the front edge of the toilet and the wall.
Vent pipe
Drain pipe
Main vent stack
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■ How to Plumb a Half Bath
1 2
Locate the main waste-vent stack in the wet wall, and In the basement, cut away a section of the stack and
remove the wall surface behind the planned location for the insert a waste T-fitting with a 3" side inlet for the toilet drain;
toilet and sink. Cut a 41⁄2"-diameter hole for the toilet flange below that, insert a 3" × 11⁄2" reducing Y and 45, or a 3" × 11⁄2"
(centered 12" from the wall for most toilets). Drill two 3⁄4" holes reducing TY combo for the sink. Install a closet bend and 3"
through the sole plate for sink supply lines and one hole for drain pipe for the toilet, and install a 11⁄2" drain pipe with a
the toilet supply line. Drill a 2" hole for the sink drain. sweep elbow for the sink. Make sure to maintain the proper
1
⁄4" per foot slope of the drain pipes.
3 4
Tap into water distribution pipes with 3⁄4" × 1⁄2" reducing Attach drop ear elbows to the ends of the supply pipes, and
T-fittings, then run 1⁄2" copper supply pipes through the holes anchor them to blocking installed between studs. Anchor the
in the sole plate to the sink and toilet. Support all pipes at 4-ft. drain pipe to the blocking, then run a vertical vent pipe from
intervals with strapping attached to joists. the waste T-fitting up the wall to a point at least 6" above the
highest fixture on the main stack. Then, route the vent pipe
horizontally and splice it into the vent stack with a vent T.
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Kitchen
P lumbing a remodeled kitchen is a relatively easy
job if your kitchen includes only a wall sink. If
your project includes an island sink, however, the work
before designing an installation with an AAV or a loop
vent.
For our demonstration kitchen, we divided the
becomes more complicated. project into three phases:
An island sink poses problems because there is
no wall in which to run a vent pipe. An island sink • How to Install DWV Pipes for a Wall Sink
requires either a complicated configuration known (pages 180 to 182)
as a loop vent or a device called an air admittance • How to Install DWV Pipes for an Island Sink
valve (AAV), now approved by most codes. An AAV (pages 183 to 187)
eliminates the need for a loop vent in most island sink • How to Install New Supply Pipes
installations. Check with the local plumbing inspector (pages 190 to 191)
Auxiliary
Island sink waste-vent stack
Auxiliary
waste-vent stack
Drain pipe
Vent pipe
Our demonstration kitchen includes a double wall sink and an island sink. The 11⁄2" drain for the wall sink connects to an
existing 2" galvanized waste-vent stack; since the trap is within 31⁄2 ft. of the stack, no vent pipe is required. The drain for the island
sink uses a loop vent configuration connected to an auxiliary waste-vent stack in the basement.
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Tips for Plumbing a Kitchen 쑺
Insulate exterior walls if you live in a region with Use existing waste-vent stacks to connect the new
freezing winter temperatures. Where possible, run water DWV pipes. In addition to a main waste-vent stack, most
supply pipes through the floor or interior partition walls, homes have one or more auxiliary waste-vent stacks in
rather than exterior walls. the kitchen that can be used to connect new DWV pipes.
Loop vent
Vent stack
Clean cut may be required
Drain
trap
8" min.
Vent pipe
Cleanout Drain pipe
Loop vents makes it possible to vent a sink when there is no adjacent wall to house the vent pipe. The drain is vented
with a loop of pipe that arches up against the countertop and away from the drain before dropping through the floor.
The vent pipe then runs horizontally to an existing vent pipe. In our project, we have tied the island vent to a vent pipe
extending up from a basement utility sink. Note: Loop vents are subject to local code restrictions. Always consult your
building inspector for guidelines on venting an island sink.
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■ How to Install DWV Pipes for a Wall Sink
1 2
Determine the location of the sink drain by marking the Mark a route for the new drain pipe through the studs
position of the sink and base cabinet on the floor. Mark a point behind the wall sink cabinet. The drain pipe should angle 1⁄4"
on the floor indicating the position of the sink drain opening. per foot down toward the waste-vent stack.
This point will serve as a reference for aligning the sink
drain stub-out.
3
Use a right-angle drill and hole saw to bore holes for the drain pipe. On non-loadbearing studs, such as the cripple studs
beneath a window, you can notch the studs with a reciprocating saw to simplify the installation of the drain pipe. If the studs are
loadbearing, however, you must thread the run though the bored holes, using couplings to join short lengths of pipe as you create
the run.
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4
Measure, cut, and dry-fit a horizontal drain pipe to run from the waste-vent stack to the sink drain stub-out. Create the
stub-out with a 45° elbow and 6" length of 11⁄2" pipe. Note: If the sink trap in your installation will be more than 31⁄2 ft. from the
waste-vent pipe, you will have to install a waste-T and run a vent pipe up the wall, connecting it to the vent stack at a point at
least 6" above the lip of the sink.
5 6
Remove the neoprene sleeve from a banded coupling, Attach two lengths of 2" pipe, at least 4" long, to the top
then roll the lip back and measure the thickness of the and bottom openings on a 2" × 2" × 11⁄2" waste-T. Hold the
separator ring. fitting alongside the waste-vent stack, then mark the stack
for cutting, allowing space for the separator rings on the
banded couplings.
(continued)
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7 8
Use riser clamps and 2 × 4 blocking to support the Slide banded couplings onto the cut ends of the waste-vent
waste-vent stack above and below the new drain pipe, then stack, and roll back the lips of the neoprene sleeves. Position
cut out the waste-vent stack along the marked lines, using a the waste-T assembly, then roll the sleeves into place over the
reciprocating saw and metal-cutting blade. plastic pipes.
9 10
Slide the metal bands into place over the neoprene Solvent-glue the drain pipe, beginning at the waste-vent
sleeves, and tighten the clamps with a ratchet wrench stack. Use a 90° elbow and a short length of pipe to create a
or screwdriver. drain stub-out extending about 4" out from the wall.
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■ How to Install DWV Pipes for an Island Sink
1 2
90° elbow
45° elbow
45° elbow
Waste-T
Trap
Position the base cabinet for the island sink, according Create the beginning of the drain and loop vent by
to your kitchen plans. Mark the cabinet position on the floor test-fitting a drain trap, waste-T, two 45° elbows, and a 90°
with tape, then move the cabinet out of the way. elbow, linking them with 2" lengths of pipe. Measure the width
of the loop between the centerpoints of the fittings.
3 4
Draw a reference line perpendicular to the wall to use as a Position the loop assembly on the floor, and use it as a
guide when positioning the drain pipes. A cardboard template guide for marking hole locations. Make sure to position the
of the sink can help you position the loop vent inside the vent loop so the holes are not over joists.
outline of the cabinet.
(continued)
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5 6
Use a hole saw with a diameter slightly larger than the vent Reposition the base cabinet, and mark the floor of the
pipes to bore holes in the subfloor at the marked locations. cabinet where the drain and vent pipes will run. (Make sure to
Note the positions of the holes by carefully measuring from allow for the thickness of the cabinet sides when measuring.)
the edges of the taped cabinet outline; these measurements Use the hole saw to bore holes in the floor of the cabinet,
will make it easier to position matching holes in the floor of the directly above the holes in the subfloor.
base cabinet.
7
Measure, cut, and assemble the drain and loop vent assembly. Tape the top of the loop in place against a brace laid across the
top of the cabinet, then extend the drain and vent pipes through the holes in the floor of the cabinet. The waste-T should be about
18" above the floor, and the drain and vent pipes should extend about 2 ft. through the floor.
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8 9
In the basement, establish a route from the island vent pipe Hold a waste-T against the vent stack, and mark the
to an existing vent pipe. (In our project, we used the auxiliary horizontal vent pipe at the correct length. Fit the horizontal
waste-vent stack near a utility sink.) Hold a long length of pipe pipe into the waste-T, then tape the assembly in place against
between the pipes, and mark for T-fittings. Cut off the plastic the vent stack. The vent pipe should angle 1⁄4" per foot down
vent pipe at the mark, then dry-fit a waste T-fitting to the end toward the drain.
of the pipe.
10 11
Fit a 3" length of pipe in the bottom opening on the T-fitting Extend both the vent pipe and drain pipe by dry-fitting 3"
attached to the vent pipe, then mark both the vent pipe and lengths of pipe and Y-fittings to the elbows. Using a level, make
the drain pipe for 45° elbows. Cut off the drain and vent pipes sure the horizontal drain pipe will slope toward the waste-vent
at the marks, then dry-fit the elbows onto the pipes. at a pitch of 1⁄4" per foot. Measure and cut a short length of
pipe to fit between the Y-fittings.
(continued)
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12 13
Cut a horizontal drain pipe to reach from the vent Y-fitting Cut out the auxiliary stack at the marks. Use the T-fittings
to the auxiliary waste-vent stack. Attach a waste-T to the and short lengths of pipe to assemble an insert piece to fit
end of the drain pipe, then position it against the drain stack, between the cutoff ends of the auxiliary stack. The insert
maintaining a downward slope of 1⁄4" per foot. Mark the assembly should be about 1⁄2" shorter than the removed
auxiliary stack for cutting above and below the fittings. section of stack.
14 15
Slide banded couplings onto the cut ends of the auxiliary At the open inlet on the drain pipe Y-fitting, insert a
stack, then insert the plastic pipe assembly and loosely tighten cleanout fitting.
the clamps.
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16
Solvent-glue all pipes and fittings found in the basement, beginning with the assembly inserted into the existing waste-vent
stack, but do not glue the vertical drain and vent pipes running up into the cabinet. Tighten the banded couplings at the auxiliary
stack. Support the horizontal pipes every 4 ft. with strapping nailed to the joists, then detach the vertical pipes extending up into
the island cabinet. The final connection for the drain and vent loop will be completed as other phases of the kitchen remodeling
project are finished.
17 18
After installing flooring and attaching cleats for the island Install the base cabinet, then insert the drain and vent
base cabinet, cut away the flooring covering the holes for the pipes through the holes in the cabinet floor, and solvent-glue
drain and vent pipes. the pieces together.
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Air Admittance Valves 쑺
The loop vent (page 135) is approved by code in any Be sure to check with your local building
jurisdiction and is a reliable way to vent your island sink. department before installing them anywhere. Any vent
But in many parts of the country, you’ll find another option system containing AAVs also must have at least one
that is far simpler, if not as time-tested: the air admittance standard vent outlet to the exterior of the building.
valve (AAV). Invented in the 1970s, AAVs let the necessary The first AAVs on the market were spring-activated,
amount of air enter a DWV system when water is draining, and you can still purchase these today through wholesale
but they close when the line has emptied to keep sewer plumbing suppliers or the Internet. Later versions are gravity
gases from escaping. activated. In these AAVs, the valve is opened by negative
The advantage of AAVs is that you can install them to line pressure in the drain line created by flushing or draining.
vent individual fixtures, reducing the amount of vent piping When the valve opens, the pressure in the line equalizes.
needed, as well as the number of roof penetrations. You AAVs can be installed into PVC systems like any other
can also install them on branch vent lines to service more solvent-glued fitting. Always install AAVs according to the
than one fixture. manufacturer’s specification.
Air admittance valves are designed
to allow air into the vent system when
needed, but to keep it from exiting when
the system should remain closed.
Shown cutaway
The original air admittance valves
were spring loaded (right) but advancing
technology is replacing these versions
with gravity-activated AAVs (left).
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■ Common AAV Applications
By installing an AAV in a plumbed kitchen island, you An AAV connected to the trap of an individual plumbing
can do away with almost all of the complicated loop-vent fixture can eliminate great amounts of vent-plumbing work.
plumbing. But be sure to check with your local plumbing In many large public stadiums, for example, each bathroom
inspector first. AAVs are allowed in all 50 states but not in fixture is vented with an AAV to cut down on the number of
some municipalities in selected states. long vent runs.
An AAV can be installed on a branch drain servicing as many as six fixtures (check local code), as long as the DWV system has
at least one outlet through the roof and outside of the building.
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■ How to Install New Supply Pipes
1
Drill two 1"-diameter holes, spaced about 6" apart, through the floor of the island base cabinet and the underlying subfloor.
Position the holes so they are not over floor joists. Drill similar holes in the floor of the base cabinet for the wall sink.
2 3
Turn off the water at the main shutoff and drain the Dry-fit T-fittings on each supply pipe (we used
pipes. Cut out any old water supply pipes that obstruct new 3
⁄4" × 1⁄2" × 1⁄2" reducing T-fittings). Use elbows and lengths of
pipe runs, using a tubing cutter or hacksaw. In our project, we copper pipe to begin the new branch lines running to the
removed the old pipe back to a point where it was convenient island sink and the wall sink. The parallel pipes should be
to begin the new branch lines. routed so they are between 3" and 6" apart.
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4 5
Solder the pipes and fittings together, beginning at the Extend the branch lines to points directly below the holes
T-fittings. Support the horizontal pipe runs with copper pipe leading up into the base cabinets. Use elbows and lengths of
straps attached to the joists at least every 6 ft. (Check your pipe to form vertical risers extending at least 12" into the base
local codes for specific strap spacing requirements.) cabinets. Use a small level to position the risers so they are
plumb, then mark the pipe for cutting.
6 7
Fit the horizontal pipes and risers together, and solder Solder male-threaded adapters to the tops of the risers,
them in place. Install blocking between joists, and anchor the then screw threaded shutoff valves onto the fittings.
risers to the blocking with pipe straps.
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New Gas Lines
D o you want to enjoy the efficiency and control
of cooking on a gas range, but your kitchen only
supports an electric model? Or perhaps you’ve been
to the basic materials and handling information in the
same location.
If you choose to proceed with the new line
meaning to move the range to improve the workflow. installation, begin by mapping out where the new
Would you like to add a supplementary gas water line will run and calculating what lengths of pipe and
heater closer to your master bath? Are you planning which fittings you will need. Begin at the supply pipe
to add a permanent heat source in your garage? Or you’ll be tying into and work forward. Also check with
your local building department to find out which types
do you simply want to save money by converting
of pipe are allowed and which types they recommend
from electricity to gas fuel for a few of your major
for your job.
appliances? Any of these projects is within your grasp
The number of gas appliances a branch line can
as long as your home already has natural gas service. support is limited by the diameter of the branch and
You simply need to install a new branch gas line. length of runs, so you’ll need to know exactly which
Installing a gas line isn’t difficult, but it is other appliances are serviced by the branch you’re
dangerous and in many areas you simply aren’t tying into and how much fuel they consume (see
allowed to do it yourself. Please read the discussion of chart, next page). You will need to obtain a permit and
whether or not to tackle a gas-related project on pages have your work inspected, so it’s good to involve the
314 to 316 before you make your decision. Also refer inspections department up front.
Running new pipe lines allows you to enjoy the practical and cost-savings benefits of natural gas in all areas of your home.
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Notes for Installing Gas Consumption of
Gas Lines 쑺 Household Appliances 쑺
• In most areas, a shut-off valve (usually a ball Appliance Avg. Btu’s Gas
valve) must be accessible within 3 ft. of the per hour consumption
appliance and in the same room. per hour*
• If you are relocating a line and cannot remove 50-gallon water heater 50,000 50 cu. ft.
the existing branch supply line because of limited
Furnace 200,000 200 cu. ft.
access, you will need to cap the gas stub out.
• If you live in an area that allows flexible Clothes dryer 35,000 35 cu. ft.
copper or flexible stainless steel connectors
Range/oven 65,000 65 cu. ft.
you will have more room for error in your
measurements. If you must connect only using *Based on output rate of 1,000 Btu per cubic foot of fuel per hour.
rigid black pipe, you may need to have some
Your actual rate will likely differ. Check with your energy company.
pipe lengths cut and threaded to fit.
Determine the flow rate for a branch line by
• Most areas allow Type K and Type L copper
adding the gas consumption per hour (use above
tubing for installation in an LP gas or natural data only if specific information is not printed on
gas line. But always check with your local your appliance label) of each appliance. Although
building department. appliances may not run concurrently, it is advisable
• Never use standard plumbing fittings with gas to select pipe size based on 100% flow rate. Note
that distance traveled also plays an important role in
pipe. Use only gas-rated, cast brass stopcocks
selecting pipe size diameter (1⁄2", 3⁄4", 1", 11⁄4", or 11⁄2").
for smaller pipe (less than 3" dia.) and use
gas-rated globe or gate valves for larger pipe.
Horizontal pipe runs must be pitched downward slightly, either by using progressively thicker shims between pipe and
the attachment surface, or by making progressively deeper cutouts in a support member, or drilling access holes that become
progressively lower in joists.
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Tips for Running Gas Pipe 쑺
6" Minimum
Horizontal pipe runs should terminate in a drip Make branch connections at the side or top of the pipe
nipple that drops from the end to capture moisture you are tying into. If you need to drop down or up, run a
and impurities. branch line at least 6" long straight out from the side of
the pipe and then drop down or go up with a 90° union.
Protect pipes running in enclosed wall
cavities with steel protector plates to stop
nails or screws before they reach the pipe.
Pipes in enclosed walls must be at least
1
⁄2" in diameter.
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■ How to Install a Branch Gas Line
1 2
Begin layout at the end of the run. Pull the appliance away From the basement, locate the wire and determine whether
from the wall slightly in the new location and mark the most the placement is feasible. Adjust the placement to work
convenient spot for the new gas line to enter the room. The around joists or other supply lines if necessary. Drill a 1" hole
easiest installation is up through the floor. Drill a hole through up through the floor.
the floor and thread a wire through the hole to mark the
location of the proposed gas line.
3 Gas on
4
Gas off
Turn off the gas at the gas meter, using an adjustable Disconnect the existing appliance. If a flexible stainless
wrench. The valve does not have a stop, so it can rotate steel connector was used, discard it, as they can only be
indefinitely. The gas is off when the bar is perpendicular installed once. Remove the gas stub-out or flexible copper
to the pipe. line back to the supply line.
(continued)
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5 6
Begin fitting the new pipe. Apply pipe compound or Support pipe runs with pipe hangers rated for use
gas-rate, yellow PTFE tape to all male threads. Hand tighten with your pipe material. Make sure that the line has a slight
each joint, then tighten each pipe and fitting at least one turn downward slope from the source toward the appliance.
before moving on to the next section. You may need to tighten
more than one turn to get the proper alignment. Wipe any
excess joint compound from the exposed threads.
7 8
Install a T at the point where the pipe turns up to go Push the riser stub-out pipe up through the hole in the
through the floor. Connect a short nipple and a cap on the floor. To prevent contamination, cover the end of the riser
crossbar of the T pointing down. This creates a drip nipple to nipple with tape or plastic.
trap any moisture or impurities in the gas line.
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9 10
Attach an approved 1⁄4"-turn gas valve to the riser Attach a male-threaded-to-flare adapter to the valve. Use
stub-out. Apply pipe compound to the male threads. Use an two adjustable wrenches—one holding the valve in place and
adjustable wrench, not a pipe wrench, to tighten the valve one tightening the fitting.
onto the stubout. If desired, slip an escutcheon plate over the
riser pipe before you attach the valve (you can also install a
split plate later). With the valve off, restore gas to the line at the
meter and test all joints with leak detector solution (see page
315).
11 12
Attach the appliance connector tube to the valve. Make Hook up the appliance by attaching the other flare nut
sure to buy a connector with ends that match the valve and to the threaded gas inlet port on the appliance. Plug in the
the appliance port. In most cases, you may now use flexible appliance’s power cord. Turn on gas at the main meter and at
stainless steel connectors instead of soft copper tubing that the stop valve and test the flare fittings for leaks. Once you’re
requires flaring. But soft copper is allowed if you have the certain all the joints are good, carefully slide the appliance
equipment to make a flare fitting joint (see page 317) and into place.
want to save a few dollars.
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Plumbing
Repairs
M aking plumbing repairs is a good deal easier
today than it was a generation ago. Back then,
a leaky faucet was repaired by disassembling the
valve and repacking it with messy string. Today, you
simply remove the old cartridge and pop in a new
one. In older times, if your toilet was running you
replaced a rubber gasket or washer. Today, you’re more
likely to simply remove and replace the entire flush
mechanism, which is actually a good deal easier to do
than fixing one discreet piece of the mechanism. But
convenience always comes at a price. Locating the
correct replacement parts can get tricky, and instead
of a cheap washer or bit of graphite string, you usually
have to pay for the whole replacement parts package.
Faucets and drains are the parts of your plumbing
system that are most likely to need repairs. Faucets
leak or drip and drains clog. If you add these repairs
to fixing toilet problems, you’ve covered almost
everything you’re likely to face. This chapter includes
thorough information on these common repairs, as
well as several that you’re less likely to encounter—but
in the event that you do, you’ll be prepared.
In this chapter:
• Common Toilet Problems • Sink Drains
• Toilet Flanges • Branch & Main Drains
• Toilet Drain Lines • Branch Drains & Vents
• Sinks • Main Stacks
• Sprayers & Aerators • Supply Pipes
• Leaky Plumbing • Burst Pipes
• Tubs & Showers • Noisy Pipes
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Common Toilet Problems
A clogged toilet is one of the most common
plumbing problems. If a toilet overflows or flushes
sluggishly, clear the clog with a plunger or closet auger.
most repair projects can be completed in less than
an hour.
A recurring puddle of water on the floor around
If the problem persists, the clog may be in the main a toilet may be caused by a crack in the toilet base
waste-vent stack (pages 254 to 258). or in the tank. A damaged toilet should be replaced.
Most other toilet problems are fixed easily Installing a new toilet is an easy project that can be
with minor adjustments that require no disassembly finished in three or four hours.
or replacement parts. You can make these A standard two-piece toilet has an upper tank
adjustments in a few minutes, using simple tools that is bolted to a base. This type of toilet uses a
(pages 268 to 271). simple gravity-operated flush system and can easily
If minor adjustments do not fix the problem, be repaired using the directions on the following
further repairs will be needed. The parts of a pages. Some one-piece toilets use a complicated,
standard toilet are not difficult to take apart, and high-pressure flush valve.
How a toilet works: When the handle (1)
(1) Handle (8) Float ball is pushed, the lift chain raises a rubber
seal, called a flapper or tank ball (2). Water
in the tank rushes down through the flush
valve opening (3) in the bottom of the tank
Lift chain (or lift wires)
and into the toilet bowl (4). Waste water
(2) Flapper (or tank ball) in the bowl is forced through the trap (5)
into the main drain (6). When the toilet
Tank tank is empty, the flapper seals the tank,
and a water supply valve, called a ballcock
(7), refills the toilet tank. The ballcock is
controlled by a float ball (8) that rides on
the surface of the water. When the tank is
Rim openings
full, the float ball automatically shuts off
(7) Ballcock
the ballcock.
Supply
tube
(4) Toilet bowl
(3) Flush Valve
(5) Trap
Base
Wax
ring
Shutoff
valve
(6) Main drain
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Problems & Repairs 쑺
Problems Repairs
Toilet handle sticks or is hard to push. 1. Adjust lift wires (page 202).
2. Clean and adjust handle (page 202).
Handle must be held down for entire flush. 1. Adjust handle (page 202).
2. Shorten lift chain or wires (page 202).
3. Replace waterlogged flapper.
Handle is loose. 1. Adjust handle (page 202).
2. Reattach lift chain or lift wires to lever (page 202).
Toilet will not flush at all. 1. Make sure water is turned on.
2. Adjust lift chain or lift wires (page 202).
Toilet does not flush completely. 1. Adjust lift chain (page 202).
2. Adjust water level in tank (page 204).
3. Increase pressure on pressure-assisted toilet.
Toilet overflows or flushes sluggishly. 1. Clear clogged toilet (page 212).
2. Clear clogged main waste-vent stack (page 211).
Toilet runs continuously. 1. Adjust lift wires or lift chain (page 202).
2. Replace leaky float ball (page 204).
3. Adjust water level in tank (page 204).
4. Adjust and clean flush valve (page 208).
5. Replace flush valve (page 208).
6. Repair or replace ballcock.
7. Service pressure-assist valve (page 204).
Water on floor around toilet. 1. Tighten tank bolts and water connections (page 214).
2. Insulate tank to prevent condensation.
3. Replace wax ring (page 214).
4. Replace cracked tank or bowl (pages 12 to 17).
Toilet noisy when filling. 1. Open shutoff valve completely.
2. Replace ballcock and float valve.
3. Refill tube is disconnected.
Weak flush. 1. Clean clogged rim openings (page 205).
2. Replace old low-flow toilet.
Toilet rocks. 1. Replace wax ring and bolts (page 214).
2. Replace toilet flange (page 215).
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■ Making Minor Adjustments
Many common toilet problems can be fixed by making A continuously running toilet (page opposite) can
minor adjustments to the handle and the attached lift be caused by bent lift wires, kinks in a lift chain, or lime
chain (or lift wires). buildup on the handle mounting nut. Clean and adjust
If the handle sticks or is hard to push, remove the the handle and the lift wires or chain to fix the problem.
tank cover and clean the handle-mounting nut. Make
sure the lift wires are straight.
If the toilet will not flush completely unless the Tools & Materials 쑺
handle is held down, you may have to remove excess
slack in the lift chain. Adjustable wrench Hacksaw
If the toilet will not flush at all, the lift chain Needlenose pliers Spray Lubricant
may be broken or may have to be reattached to the Screwdriver Small wire brush
handle lever. Scissors Vinegar
■ How to Adjust a Toilet Handle & Lift Chain (or Lift Wires)
Handle lever
Lift chain
Lift wires
Handle
mounting nut
Guide arm
Clean and adjust handle-mounting Adjust lift chain so it hangs straight Adjust lift wires (found on toilets
nut so handle operates smoothly. from handle lever, with about 1⁄2" of without lift chains) so that wires are
Mounting nut has reversed threads. slack. Remove excess slack in chain by straight and operate smoothly when
Loosen nut by turning clockwise; tighten hooking the chain in a different hole in handle is pushed. A sticky handle often
by turning counterclockwise. Remove the handle lever or by removing links can be fixed by straightening bent
lime buildup with a brush dipped in with needlenose pliers. A broken lift lift wires.
vinegar. chain must be replaced.
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Quick Fixes 쑺
Seat loose? Loose seats are almost always the result of Seat uncomfortably low? Instead of going to the
loose nut on the seat bolts. Tighten the nuts with pliers. If trouble of raising the toilet or replacing it with a taller
the nut is corroded or stripped, replace the bolts and nuts model, you can simply replace the seat with a thicker,
or replace the whole seat. extended seat.
Tank fills too slowly? The first place to check is the Toilet running? Running toilets are usually caused by
shutoff valve where the supply tube for the toilet is faulty or misadjusted fill valves, but sometimes the toilet
connected. Make sure it is fully open. If it is, you may need runs because the tank is leaking water into the bowl. To
to replace the shutoff—these fittings are fairly cheap and determine if this is happening with your toilet, add a few
frequently fail to open fully. drops of food coloring to the tank water. If, after a while,
the water in the bowl becomes colored, then you have a
leak and probably need to replace the rubber gasket at
the base of your flush valve.
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■ Reset Tank Water Level
Tank water flowing into the overflow pipe is the sound A ball float is connected to a float arm that’s attached to
we hear when a toilet is running. Usually, this is caused by a plunger on the other end. As the tank fills, the float rises
a minor misadjustment that fails to tell the water to shut off and lifts one end of the float arm. At a certain point, the float
when the toilet tank is full. The culprit is a float ball or cup that arm depresses the plunger and stops the flow of water. By
is adjusted to set a water level in the tank that’s higher than simply bending the float arm downward a bit, you can cause
the top of the overflow pipe, which serves as a drain for excess it to depress the plunger at a lower tank water level, solving
tank water. The other photos on this page show how to fix the problem.
the problem.
Spring clip
A diaphragm fill valve usually is made of plastic and has A float cup fill valve is made of plastic and is easy to
a wide bonnet that contains a rubber diaphragm. Turn the adjust. Lower the water level by pinching the spring clip with
adjustment screw clockwise to lower the water level and fingers or pliers and moving the clip and cup down the pull
counterclockwise to raise it. rod and shank. Raise the water level by moving the clip and
cup upward.
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What If the Flush Stops too Soon? 쑺
Sometimes there is plenty of water in the tank, The handle lever should pull straight up on the
but not enough of it makes it to the bowl before the flush flapper. If it doesn’t, reposition the chain hook on the
valve shuts off the water from the tank. Modern toilets are handle lever. When the flapper is covering the opening,
designed to leave some water in the tank, since the first there should be just a little slack in the chain. If there is
water that leaves the tank does so with the most force. too much slack, shorten the chain and cut off excess
(It’s pressed out by the weight of the water on top.) To with the cutters on your pliers.
increase the duration of the flush, shorten the length of
the chain between the flapper and the float (yellow in the
model shown).
If the toilet is not completing flushes and the Unless the handle parts are visibly broken, try
lever and chain for the flapper or tank ball are correctly cleaning them with an old toothbrush dipped in white
adjusted, the problem could be that the handle vinegar. Replace the handle and test the action. If it
mechanism needs cleaning or replacement. Remove the sticks or is hard to operate, replace it. Most replacement
chain/linkage from the handle lever. Remove the nut on handles come with detailed instructions that tell you how
the backside of the handle with an adjustable wrench. to install and adjust them.
It unthreads clockwise (the reverse of standard nuts).
Remove the old handle from the tank.
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■ How to Replace a Fill Valve
1 2
Mounting unit
for fill valve
Critical
level mark
Coupling nut
for supply tube
Toilet fill valves degrade eventually and need to be Fill valves need to be coordinated with the flush valve so
replaced. Before removing the old fill valve, shut off the water the tank water level is not higher than the overflow pipe and
supply at the fixture stop valve located on the tube that so the fill valve is not low enough in the tank that it creates a
supplies water to the tank. Flush the toilet and sponge out the siphoning hazard. New fill valves have a “critical level” mark
remaining water. Then, remove the old fill valve assembly by (“CL”) near the top of the valve.
loosening and removing the mounting nut on the outside of
the tank wall that secures the fill valve.
3 4
The new fill valve must be installed so the critical level (“CL”) Adjust the height of the fill valve shank so the “CL” line
mark is at least 1" above the overflow pipe. Slip the shank and overflow pipe will be correctly related. Different products
washer on the threaded shank of the new fill valve and place are adjusted in different ways—the fill valve shown here
the valve in the hole so the washer is flat on the tank bottom. telescopes when it’s twisted.
Compare the locations of the “CL” mark and the overflow pipe.
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5 6
Threaded
valve stem
Position the valve in the tank. Push down on the valve Hook up the water by attaching the coupling nut from the
shank (not the top) while hand tightening the locknut onto the supply riser to the threaded shank at the bottom end of the
threaded valve stem (thread the mounting nut on the exterior new fill valve. Hand tighten only.
side of tank). Hand tighten only.
7 8
Refill tube
Overflow pipe
If the overflow pipe has a cap, remove it. Attach one Turn the water on fully. Slightly tighten any fitting that drips
end of the refill tube from the new valve to the plastic angle water. Adjust the water level in the tank by squeezing the
adapter and the other end to the refill nipple near the top of spring clip on the float cup with needlenose pliers and moving
the valve. Attach the angle adapter to the overflow pipe. Cut the cup up or down on the link bar. Test the flush.
off excess tubing with scissors to prevent kinking. Warning:
Don’t insert the refill tube into the overflow pipe. The outlet
of the refill tube needs to be above the top of pipe for it to
work properly.
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■ How to Replace a Flush Valve
1 2
Before removing the old flush valve, shut off the water Unscrew the bolts holding the toilet tank to the bowl by
supply at the fixture stop valve located on the tube that loosening the nuts from below. If you are having difficulty
supplies water to the tank. Flush the toilet and sponge out the unscrewing the tank bolts and nuts because they are fused
remaining water. To make this repair you’ll need to remove together by rust or corrosion, apply penetrating oil or spray
the tank from the bowl. Start by unscrewing the water supply lubricant to the threads, give it a few minutes to penetrate,
coupling nut from the bottom of the tank. and then try again. If that fails, slip an open-ended hacksaw
(or plain hacksaw blade) between the tank and bowl and saw
through the bolt (inset photo).
3 4
Spud nut
Spud wrench
Unhook the chain from the handle lever arm. Remove Place the new flush valve in the valve hole and check
the tank and carefully place it upside-down on an old towel. to see if the top of the overflow pipe is at least 1" below the
Remove the spud washer and spud nut from the base of the critical level line (see page 206) and the tank opening where
flush valve using a spud wrench or large channel-type pliers. the handle is installed. If the pipe is too tall, cut it to length with
Remove the old flush valve. a hacksaw.
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Intermediate nut goes between
5 Spud nut
6 tank and bowl
Spud washer
Position the flush valve flapper below the handle lever With the tank lying on its back, thread a rubber washer
arm and secure it to the tank from beneath with the spud onto each tank bolt and insert it into the bolt holes from inside
nut. Tighten the nut one-half turn past hand tight with a spud the tank. Then, thread a brass washer and hex nut onto the
wrench or large channel-type pliers. Overtightening may cause tank bolts from below and tighten them to a quarter turn past
the tank to break. Put the new spud washer over the spud nut, hand tight. Do not overtighten.
small side down.
7 8 Refill tube
Overflow pipe
Chain clip
Intermediate
nut
Handle lever arm
With the hex nuts tightened against the tank bottom, Connect the chain clip to the handle lever arm and adjust
carefully lower the tank over the bowl and set it down so the the number of links to allow for a little slack in the chain
spud washer seats neatly over the water inlet in the bowl and when the flapper is closed. Leave a little tail on the chain for
the tank bolts fit through the holes in the bowl flange. Secure adjusting, cutting off remaining excess. Attach the refill tube
the tank to the bowl with a rubber washer, brass washer, and to the top of the overflow pipe the same way it had been
nut or wing nut at each bolt end. Press the tank to level as you attached to the previous refill pipe. Turn on the water supply
hand-tighten the nuts. Hook up the water supply at the at the stop valve and test the flush. (Some flush valve flappers
fill valve inlet. are adjustable.)
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Clogged Toilets
T he toilet is clogged and has overflowed. Have
patience. Now is the time for considered action.
A second flush is a tempting but unnecessary
If the tub, sink, and toilet all back up at once, the
branch drainline that serves all the bathroom fixtures
is probably blocked and your best recourse is to call a
gamble. First, do damage control. Mop up the water drain clearing service.
if there’s been a spill. Next, consider the nature of
the clog. Is it entirely “natural” or might a foreign
object be contributing to the congestion? Push a
natural blockage down the drain with a plunger. A Tools & Materials 쑺
foreign object should be removed, if possible, with
a closet auger. Pushing anything more durable than Towels Plunger with foldout
toilet paper into the sewer may create a more serious Closet auger skirt (force cup)
blockage in your drain and waste system.
A blockage in the toilet bowl leaves
flush water from the tank nowhere to go
but on the floor.
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Drain Clearers 쑺
The home repair marketplace is filled with gadgets
and gimmicks, as well as well-established products,
that are intended to clear drains of all types. Some are
caustic chemicals, some are natural enzymes, others
are more mechanical in nature. Some help, some are
worthless, some can even make the problem worse.
Nevertheless, if you are the type of homeowner who is
enamored with new products and the latest solutions,
you may enjoy testing out new drain cleaners as
they become available. In this photo, for example,
you’ll see a relatively new product that injects blasts
of compressed CO2 directly into your toilet, sink,
or tub drain to dislodge clogs. It does not cause
any chemicals to enter the waste stream, and the
manufacturers claim the CO2 blast is very gentle and
won’t damage pipes. As with any new product, use it
with caution. But if a plunger or a snake isn’t working,
The trap is the most common catching spot for toilet clogs, it could save you the cost of a house call.
Once the clog forms, flushing the toilet cannot generate
enough water power to clear the trap, so flush water backs
up. Traps on modern 1.6-gallon toilets have been redesigned
to larger diameters and are less prone to clogs than the first
generation of 1.6-gallon toilets.
Plunger Force cup
Not all plungers were created equal. The standard plunger
(left) is simply an inverted rubber cup and is used to plunge
sinks, tubs, and showers. The flanged plunger, also called a
force cup, is designed to get down into the trap of a toilet
drain. You can fold the flange up into the flanged plunger cup
and use it as a standard plunger.
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■ How to Plunge a Clogged Toilet
1 Tip 쑺
A flanged plunger (force cup) fits into the mouth of
the toilet trap and creates a tight seal so you can
build up enough pressure in front of the plunger to
dislodge the blockage and send it on its way.
Plunging is the easiest way to remove “natural” blockages.
Take time to lay towels around the base of the toilet and
remove other objects to a safe, dry location, since plunging
may result in splashing. Often, allowing a very full toilet to sit
for twenty or thirty minutes will permit some of the water to
drain to a less precarious level.
2 3
There should be enough water in the bowl to completely If you force enough water out of the bowl that you are
cover the plunger. Fold out the skirt from inside the plunger to unable to create suction with the plunger, put a controlled
form a better seal with the opening at the base of the bowl. amount of water in the bowl by lifting up on the flush valve in
Pump the plunger vigorously half-a-dozen times, take a rest, the tank. Resume plunging. When you think the drain is clear,
and then repeat. Try this for 10 to 15 cycles. you can try a controlled flush, with your hand ready to close
the flush valve should the water threaten to spill out of the
bowl. Once the blockage has cleared, dump a five-gallon pail
of water into the toilet to blast away any residual debris.
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■ How to Clear Clogs with a Closet Auger
1 Tip 쑺
A closet auger is a semirigid cable housed in a
tube. The tube has a bend at the end so it can be
snaked through a toilet trap (without scratching it) to
Protective snag blockages.
rubber boot
Place the business end of the auger firmly in the bottom
of the toilet bowl with the auger tip fully withdrawn. A rubber
sleeve will protect the porcelain at the bottom bend of the
auger. The tip will be facing back and up, which is the direction
the toilet trap takes.
2 3
Rotate the handle on the auger housing clockwise as you Fully retract the auger until you have recovered the object.
push down on the rod, advancing the rotating auger tip up into This can be frustrating at times, but it is still a much easier task
the back part of the trap. You may work the cable backward than the alternative—to remove the toilet and go fishing.
and forward as needed, but keep the rubber boot of the auger
firmly in place in the bowl. When you feel resistance, indicating
you‘ve snagged the object, continue rotating the auger
counterclockwise as you withdraw the cable and the object.
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Toilet Flanges
I f your toilet rocks it will eventually leak. The rocking
means that the bolts are no longer holding the toilet
securely to the floor. If you have tightened the bolts
and it still rocks, it is possible that a bolt has broken
a piece of the flange off and is no longer able to hold.
Rocking might also be because an ongoing leak has
weakened the floor and it is now uneven. Whatever
the reason, a rocking toilet needs to be fixed.
If your flange is connected to cast iron piping, use
a repair flange. This has a rubber compression ring
that will seal the new flange to the cast iron pipe.
Tools & Materials 쑺
Drill #10 stainless steel
Wrench flathead wood
Internal pipe cutter screws Use a flange repair kit for a quick fix to a broken flange. The
Solvent-glue Marker new flange piece from the kit is simply screwed to the floor
after it has been oriented correctly over the broken flange.
Toilets that rock often only need to have the nuts on the closet bolts tightened. But if you need to tighten the bolts on an
ongoing basis, you very likely have a problem with the closet flange.
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■ How to Replace a PVC Closet Flange
1 2
New pipe
Repair Coupling
Begin by removing the toilet and wax ring. Cut the pipe just If your flange is attached to a closet bend you will need
below the bottom of the flange using an internal pipe cutter to open up the floor around the toilet to get at the horizontal
(inset, available at plumbing supply stores). Remove the flange. pipe connecting the bend to the stack to make the repair. If it
is connected to a length of vertical plastic pipe, use a repair
coupling and a short length of pipe to bring the pipe back up to
floor level. Glue the new pipe into the repair coupling first and
allow it to set. Clean the old pipe thoroughly before gluing.
3 4
Cut the replacement pipe flush with the floor. Dry-fit the Prime and solvent-glue the pipe and flange, inserting the
new flange into the pipe. Turn the flange until the side cut-out flange slightly off the marks and twisting it to proper alignment.
screw slots are parallel to the wall. (Do not use the curved Secure the flange to the floor with #10 stainless steel flathead
keyhole slots, as they are not as strong.) Draw lines to mark wood screws.
the location of the slots on the floor.
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Toilet Drain Lines
I f your existing toilet drain line is heavily deteriorated,
replace it. You will also need to replace the drain line
if you are relocating and replacing the main drain stalk
or if you are moving the toilet to a different spot in
the bathroom.
Replacing a toilet drain is sometimes a
troublesome task, mostly because the cramped space
makes it difficult to route the large, 3" or 4" pipe. You
likely will need to remove flooring around the toilet
and wall surface behind the toilet.
Replacing a toilet drain may require framing work,
as well, if you find it necessary to cut into joists in
order to route the new pipes. When possible, plan
your project to avoid changes to the framing members.
Tools & Materials 쑺
Drill Exterior-grade
Circular saw plywood
Reciprocating saw Screws
Pipe Replacing a toilet drain usually requires that you remove
flooring and wall surface to gain access to the pipes.
■ How to Replace a Toilet Drain Line
1 2
Joist location
Remove the toilet, then unscrew the toilet flange from the Cut away the flooring around the toilet drain along the
floor and remove it from the drain pipe. You can also use an center of the floor joists, using a circular saw with the blade
internal pipe cutter to cut plastic drain pipe (see previous page, set to a depth 1⁄8" more than the thickness of the subfloor. The
top left). exposed joist will serve as a nailing surface when the subfloor
is replaced.
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3 4 New stack
Old stack
Cut away the old closet bend as close as possible to If a joist obstructs the route to a new waste-vent stack,
the old waste-vent stack, using a reciprocating saw with cut away a section of the floor joist. Install double headers
metal-cutting blade, or a cast iron cutter. and metal joist hangers to support the ends of the cut joist.
5 6
Closet bend
Create a new toilet drain running to the waste-vent stack, using a closet bend Cut a piece of exterior-grade plywood
and a straight length of pipe. Position the drain so there will be at least 15" of space to fit the cutout floor area, and use a
between the center of the bowl and side wall surfaces when the toilet is installed. jigsaw to cut an opening for the toilet
Make sure the drain slopes at least 1⁄4" per ft. toward the stack, then support the pipe drain stub-out. Position the plywood,
with plastic pipe strap attached to framing members. Insert a 6" length of pipe in the and attach it to joists and blocking
top inlet of the closet bend; once the new drain pipes have been tested, this pipe will with 2" screws.
be cut off with a handsaw and fitted with a toilet flange.
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Sinks
I t’s not surprising that sink faucets leak and drip.
Any fitting that contains moving mechanical parts
is susceptible to failure. But add to the equation the
easiest and most reliable repair method is to purchase
a replacement kit with brand new internal working
parts for the model and brand of faucet you own.
persistent force of water pressure working against
the parts, and the real surprise is that faucets don’t Tools & Materials 쑺
fail more quickly or often. It would be a bit unfair to
say that the inner workings of a faucet are regarded Pliers Repair kit
as disposable by manufacturers, but it is safe to say Needlenose pliers (exact type varies)
that these parts have become more easy to remove Heatproof grease Teflon tape
and replace. Channel-type pliers Screwdrivers
The most important aspect of sink faucet repair Utility knife Pipe joint compound
is identifying which type of faucet you own. In this White Vinager Plumber's putty
chapter we show all of the common types and provide Old toothbrush Rag
instructions on repairing them. In every case, the Tape measure
Eventually, just about every faucet develops leaks and drips. Repairs can usually be accomplished simply by replacing the
mechanical parts inside the faucet body (the main trick is figuring our which kind of parts your faucet has).
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Almost all leaks are caused by
malfunctioning faucet valve mechanisms.
Whether your sink faucet is a one-handle
cartridge type (left) or a two-handle
compression type or anything in between,
Cartridge
the solution to fixing the leak is to clean or
replace the parts that seal off the hot and
cold water inlets from the spout.
Mixing
Spout chamber
Aerator
Hot water supply tube
Cold water supply tube
Common Problems and Repairs 쑺
Problems Repairs
Faucet drips from the end of the spout 1. Identify the faucet design (page 220), then install
or leaks around the base. replacement parts, using directions on the following pages.
Old worn-out faucet continues to leak 1. Replace the old faucet (pages 48 to 53).
after repairs are made.
Water pressure at spout seems low, 1. Clean faucet aerator (page 227).
or water flow is partially blocked. 2. Replace corroded galvanized pipes with copper.
Water pressure from sprayer seems 1. Clean sprayer head (page 227).
low, or sprayer leaks from handle. 2. Fix diverter valve (page 233).
Water leaks onto floor underneath faucet. 1. Replace cracked sprayer hose (page 229).
2. Tighten water connections, or replace supply tubes and shutoff valves.
3. Fix leaky sink strainer (page 274).
Hose bib or valve drips from spout 1. Take valve apart and replace washers and
or leaks around handle. O-rings (pages 238 to 239).
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■ Common Faucet Types
A leaky faucet is the most common home plumbing have washers or seals that must be replaced from
problem. Leaks occur when washers, O-rings, or time to time. These repairs are easy to make, and
seals inside the faucet are dirty or worn. Fixing replacement parts are inexpensive.
leaks is easy, but the techniques for making repairs Ball-type, cartridge, and disc faucets are all known
will vary, depending on the design of the faucet. as washerless faucets. Many washerless faucets
Before beginning work, you must first identify your are controlled with a single handle, although some
faucet design and determine what replacement parts cartridge models use two handles. Washerless faucets
are needed. are more trouble-free than compression faucets and
There are four basic faucet designs: ball-type, are designed for quick repair.
cartridge, disc, and compression. Many faucets When installing new faucet parts, make sure the
can be identified easily by outer appearance, but replacements match the original parts. Replacement
others must be taken apart before the design can parts for popular washerless faucets are identified by
be recognized. brand name and model number. To ensure a correct
The compression design is used in many selection, you may want to bring the worn parts to the
double-handle faucets. Compression faucets all store for comparison.
Ball-type faucet has a single handle over a dome-shaped Cartridge faucets are available in single-handle or
cap. If your single-handle faucet is made by Delta® or double-handle models. Popular cartridge faucet brands include
Peerless®, it is probably a ball-type faucet. See page 224 to fix Price Pfister™, Moen, Valley, and Aqualine. See page 223 to fix
a ball-type faucet. a cartridge faucet.
Compression faucet has two handles. When shutting Disc faucet has a single handle and a solid, chromed-brass
the faucet off, you usually can feel a rubber washer being body. If your faucet is made by American Standard or Reliant, it
squeezed inside the faucet. Compression faucets are sold may be a disc faucet. See page 225 to fix a disc faucet.
under many brand names. See page 222 to fix a compression
faucet.
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■ Faucet Repair Kits
Replacement
ball
Allen wrench
tool
Repair kit for a ball-type faucet includes rubber valve Replacement cartridges come in dozens of styles.
seats, springs, cam, cam washer, and spout O-rings. Kit Cartridges are available for popular faucet brands, including
may also include small Allen wrench tool used to remove (from left) PricePfister™, Moen, and Kohler. O-ring kits may be
faucet handle. Make sure kit is made for your faucet model. sold separately.
Replacement ball can be purchased separately but is not
needed unless old ball is obviously worn.
Universal washer kit contains parts needed to fix most Replacement cylinder for disc faucet is necessary only if
types of compression faucets. Choose a kit that has an faucet continues to leak after cleaning. Continuous leaking is
assortment of neoprene washers, O-rings, packing washers, caused by cracked or scratched ceramic discs. Replacement
and brass stem screws. cylinders come with neoprene seals and mounting screws.
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■ Compression Faucets
Index cap
Stem Faucet
assembly body
Handle
screw
Handle
Retaining
nut Remove the faucet handles so you can grasp the retaining
nut for the stem assembly with pliers. Loosen the nut and
remove the entire stem assembly.
Threaded
spindle
Stem washer
Stem assembly
O-ring O-ring
Stem
washer
Stem
screw
Valve
seat
A compression faucet has a stem assembly that includes a Remove the old O-ring and replace it with a new one. Also
retaining nut, threaded spindle, O-ring, stem washer, and stem replace the stem washer. Clean all parts with white vinegar,
screw. Dripping at the spout occurs when the washer becomes scrubbing with an old toothbrush if necessary. Coat the new
worn. Leaks around the handle are caused by a worn O-ring. O-ring and stem washer with heatproof grease and reassemble
the valve.
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■ Cartridge Faucets
Index cap
Handle screw
Retaining nut
Handle
Cartridge
Remove the faucet handle and withdraw the old cartridge.
Make a note of how the cartridge is oriented before you
remove it. Purchase a replacement cartridge.
Retaining nut
Spout
Valve body
O-ring
Both one- and two-handle faucets are available with Install the replacement cartridge. Clean the valve seat first
replaceable plastic cartridges inside the faucet body. These and coat the valve seat and O-rings with heatproof grease. Be
cartridges (used by PricePfister™, Sterling, Kohler, Moen, sure the new cartridge is in the correct position, with its tabs
and others) regulate the flow of water through the spout, seated in the slotted body of the faucet. Re-assemble the valve
and in single-handle faucets they also mix the hot and cold and handles.
water to alter the temperature out of the spout. To locate the
correct replacement cartridge for your faucet, knowing the
manufacturer and model number is a great help.
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■ Ball Faucets
Setscrew
Ball
Handle
Cam
Adjusting
ring
Cap
Knurled
edge
Spout
Cam
Remove the old ball and cam after removing the faucet
handle and ball cap. Some faucets may require a ball faucet
r
Cam washer tool to remove the handle. Otherwise, simply use a pair of
channel-type pliers to twist off the ball cap.
Valve Ball
seat
Spring
Valve body O-rings
The ball-type faucet is used by Delta, Peerless, and a few Pry out the neoprene valve seals and springs and
others. The ball fits into the faucet body and is constructed replace them with new parts. Also replace the O-rings on the
with three holes (not visible here)—a hot inlet, a cold inlet, and valve body. You may want to replace the ball and cam, too,
the outlet, which fills the valve body with water that then flows especially if you’re purchasing a repair kit. Coat all rubber parts
to the spout or sprayer. Depending on the position of the ball, in heatproof grease, and reassemble the faucet.
each inlet hole is open, closed, or somewhere in-between.
The inlet holes are sealed to the ball with valve seats, which
are pressed tight against the ball with springs. If water drips
from the spout, replace the seats and springs. Or go ahead and
purchase an entire replacement kit and replace all or most of
the working parts.
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■ Disc Faucets
Handle
Setscrew
Cap
Mounting
screws Cylinder
containing Disassemble the faucet handle and remove the old disc.
ceramic discs You’ll need to unscrew the three long mounting screws all the
way to get the cylinder containing the ceramic discs out of
the faucet.
Neoprene seals
Water inlet
Spout
The disc-type faucet used by American Standard, among Replace the cylinder with a new one, coating the
others, has a wide disc cartridge hidden beneath the handle rubber parts with heatproof grease before installing the
and the cap. Mounting screws hold the cartridge in the valve new cylinder. Make sure the rubber seals fit correctly in the
body. Two tight-fitting ceramic discs with holes in them are cylinder openings before you install the cylinder. Assemble
concealed inside the cartridge. The handle slides the top the faucet handle.
disc back and forth and from side to side over the stationary
bottom disc. This brings the holes in the disks into and out of
alignment, adjusting the flow and mix of hot and cold water.
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Sprayers & Aerators
I f water pressure from a sink sprayer seems low, or
if water leaks from the handle, it is usually because
lime buildup and sediment have blocked small
attachment with a small wire screen that mixes tiny air
bubbles into the water flow. Make sure the wire screen
is not clogged with sediment and lime buildup. If water
openings inside the sprayer head. To fix the problem, pressure is low throughout the house, it may be because
first take the sprayer head apart and clean the parts. If galvanized iron water pipes are corroded. Corroded
cleaning the sprayer head does not help, the problem pipes should be replaced with copper (pages 274 to
may be caused by a faulty diverter valve. The diverter 277).
valve inside the faucet body shifts water flow from the
faucet spout to the sprayer when the sprayer handle is
pressed. Cleaning or replacing the diverter valve may Tools & Materials 쑺
fix water pressure problems.
Whenever making repairs to a sink sprayer, check Screwdriver Universal washer kit
the sprayer hose for kinks or cracks. A damaged hose Channel-type pliers Heatproof grease
should be replaced. Needlenose pliers Replacement
If water pressure from a faucet spout seems low, Small brush sprayer hose
or if the flow is partially blocked, take the spout aerator Vinegar
apart and clean the parts. The aerator is a screw-on
Kitchen sprayers are very convenient and, in theory, quite simple. Yet, they break down with surprising regularity. Fixing or
replacing one is an easy job, however.
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The standard sprayer hose attachment
is connected to a nipple at the bottom of
the faucet valve. When the lever of the
sprayer is depressed, water flows from a
Sprayer head
diverter valve in the faucet body out to the
sprayer. If your sprayer stream is weak or
doesn’t work at all, the chances are good
Handle mount that the problem lies in the diverter valve.
Sprayer base
Tailpiece
Faucet Mounting nut
sprayer Coupling nut
nipple
Sprayer Supply tube
hose
Stop valve
Aerator
O-ring
Cartridge Sprayer
head
Washer Handle
mount
Flow
Restrictor
Diverter valves and aerators differ from faucet to faucet, Sprayer heads can be removed from the sprayer hose,
so you’ll need to know the make and model if your faucet to usually by loosening a retaining nut. By removing the head,
purchase replacement. However, if you bring the old parts in disassembling it as much as you can and cleaning it you may
to the plumbing supply store, they can probably find the right be able to solve a weak spray problem.
replacements for you.
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■ How to Repair a Sprayer
1 2
Diverter valve
Shut off the water at the stop valves and remove the Locate the diverter valve, seen here at the base of the
faucet handle to gain access to the faucet parts. Disassemble valve body. Because different types and brands of faucets
the faucet handle and body to expose the diverter valve. have differently configured diverters, do a little investigating
Ball-type faucets like the one shown here require that you beforehand to try and locate information about your faucet.
also remove the spout to get at the diverter. The above faucet is a ball type.
3 4 Diverter valve washer
Diverter valve
Pull the diverter valve from the faucet body with Coat the washer or O-ring on the new or cleaned diverter
needlenose pliers. Use a toothbrush dipped in white vinegar valve with heatproof grease. Insert the diverter valve back into
to clean any lime buildup from the valve. If the valve is in poor the faucet body. Reassemble the faucet. Turn on the water and
condition, bring it to the hardware store and purchase test the sprayer. If it still isn’t functioning to your satisfaction,
a replacement. remove the sprayer tip and run the sprayer without the filter
and aerator in case any debris has made its way into the
sprayer line during repairs.
228 ■ COMPLETE GUIDE TO PLUMBINGHI0552_CGPlumb_200-239_.indd 228 Provision (CPI)•CG To Plumbing HI 0552 TEXT 3/14/08 12:28:56 PM CD308-25_3184 1st Proof BLACK
■ How to Repair a Kitchen Sprayer
1 2
Base
To replace a sprayer hose, start by shutting off the water at Unscrew the mounting nut of the old sprayer from below
the shutoff valves. Clear out the cabinet under your sink and and remove the old sprayer body. Clean the sink deck and then
put on eye protection. Unthread the coupling nut that attaches apply plumber’s putty to the base of the new sprayer. Insert
the old hose to a nipple or tube below the faucet spout. Use the new sprayer tailpiece into the opening in the sink deck.
a basin wrench if you can’t get your channel-type pliers on
the nut.
3 4
Friction
washer
Mounting nut
From below, slip the friction washer up over the sprayer Screw the coupling for the sprayer hose onto the hose
tailpiece. Screw the mounting nut onto the tailpiece and nipple underneath the faucet body. For a good seal, apply pipe
tighten with a basin wrench or channel-type pliers. Do not joint compound to the nipple threads first. Tighten the coupling
overtighten. Wipe away any excess plumber’s putty. with a basin wrench, turn on the water supply at the shutoff
valves, and test the new sprayer.
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Leaky Plumbing
T ub and shower faucets have the same basic designs
as sink faucets, and the techniques for repairing
leaks are the same as described in the faucet repair
on, the diverter valve probably needs to be cleaned
and repaired (pages 230 to 231).
Two-handle and single-handle types use a gate
section of this book (pages 218 to 229). To identify diverter that is operated by a pull lever or knob on the
your faucet design, you may have to take off the tub spout. Although gate diverters rarely need repair,
handle and disassemble the faucet. the lever occasionally may break, come loose, or refuse
When a tub and shower are combined, the to stay in the up position. To repair a gate diverter set
showerhead and the tub spout share the same hot and in a tub spout, replace the entire spout.
cold water supply lines and handles. Combination Tub and shower faucets and diverter valves may
faucets are available as three-handle, two-handle, be set inside wall cavities. Removing them may require
or single-handle types (next page). The number of a deep-set ratchet wrench.
handles gives clues as to the design of the faucets and If spray from the showerhead is uneven, clean
the kinds of repairs that may be necessary. the spray holes. If the showerhead does not stay in
With combination faucets, a diverter valve or gate an upright position, remove the head and replace the
diverter is used to direct water flow to the tub spout O-ring.
or the showerhead. On three-handle faucet types, the To add a shower to an existing tub, install a
middle handle controls a diverter valve. If water does flexible shower adapter. Several manufacturers make
not shift easily from tub to showerhead, or if water complete conversion kits that allow a shower to be
continues to run out the spout when the shower is installed in less than one hour.
Tub/shower plumbing is notorious for developing drips from the tub spout and the showerhead. In most cases, the leak can be
traced to the valves controlled by the faucet handles.
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■ Tub & Shower Combination Faucets
Showerhead Showerhead Showerhead
Diverter valve
Cold
water
supply
Cold Cold line
water water
supply supply
line line Gate
diverter
Tub spout
Tub spout Tub spout
Hot water Hot water Hot water
supply line supply line supply line
Three-handle faucet (page 232) has Two-handle faucet (page 234) has Single-handle faucet (pages 236
valves that are either compression or valves that are either compression or to 237) has valves that are cartridge,
cartridge design. cartridge design. ball-type, or disc design.
Plumbing Repairs ■ 231HI0552_CGPlumb_200-239_.indd 231 Provision (CPI)•CG To Plumbing HI 0552 TEXT 3/14/08 12:29:01 PM CD308-25_3184 1st Proof BLACK
■ Fixing Three-handle Tub & Shower Faucets
A three-handle faucet type has two handles to
control hot and cold water, and a third handle
to control the diverter valve and direct water to either
Remember to turn off the water before
beginning work.
a tub spout or a shower head. The separate hot and
cold handles indicate cartridge or compression faucet
designs. To repair them, refer to page 220.
Tools & Materials 쑺
If a diverter valve sticks, if water flow is weak, or
Screwdriver Replacement
if water runs out of the tub spout when the flow is
Adjustable wrench diverter cartridge
directed to the showerhead, the diverter needs to be
or channel-type or universal
repaired or replaced. Most diverter valves are similar
pliers washer kit
to either compression or cartridge faucet valves.
Deep-set Heatproof grease
Compression-type diverters can be repaired, but
ratchet wrench Vinegar
cartridge types should be replaced.
Small wire brush
Water line to
shower head
Diverter valve
Diverter
valve handle
Hot
water
supply
line
Cold
water
supply
line
A three-handle tub/shower faucet has individual controls for hot and cold water plus a third handle that operates the
diverter valve.
232 ■ COMPLETE GUIDE TO PLUMBINGHI0552_CGPlumb_200-239_.indd 232 Provision (CPI)•CG To Plumbing HI 0552 TEXT 3/14/08 12:29:08 PM CD308-25_3184 1st Proof BLACK
■ How to Repair a Compression Diverter Valve
1 Escutcheon 2 3
Bonnet nut
Diverter handle
Remove the diverter valve handle Remove bonnet nut with Unscrew the stem assembly, using
with a screwdriver. Unscrew or pry off an adjustable wrench or a deep-set ratchet wrench. If necessary,
the escutcheon. channel-type pliers. chip away any mortar surrounding the
bonnet nut.
Retaining nut
4 5 6
Threaded
spindle
Stem
washer
Stem
screw
Remove brass stem screw. Replace Unscrew the threaded spindle from Clean sediment and lime buildup
stem washer with an exact duplicate. If the retaining nut. from nut, using a small wire brush
stem screw is worn, replace it. dipped in vinegar. Coat all parts with
heatproof grease, and reassemble
diverter valve.
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■ Fixing Two-handle Tub & Shower Faucets
T wo-handle tub and shower faucets are either
cartridge or compression design. They may be
repaired following the directions on pages 222 to 223.
If the diverter fails to work properly, replace the tub
spout. Tub spouts are inexpensive and easy to replace.
Remember to turn off the water before beginning
Because the valves of two-handle tub and shower any work.
faucets may be set inside the wall cavity, a deep-set
socket wrench may be required to remove
the valve stem. Tools & Materials 쑺
Two-handle tub and shower designs have a gate
diverter. A gate diverter is a simple mechanism located Screwdriver Deep-set
in the tub spout. A gate diverter closes the supply Allen wrench ratchet wrench
of water to the tub spout and redirects the flow to Pipe wrench Masking tape or cloth
the shower head. Gate diverters seldom need repair. Channel-type pliers Pipe joint compound
Occasionally, the lever may break, come loose, or Small cold chisel Replacement faucet
refuse to stay in the up position. Ball-peen hammer parts, as needed
Water line to
shower head
Bonnet nut
Valve stem
Diverter lever
Cold water
supply line
Hot water Gate diverter
supply line
A two-handle tub/shower faucet can operate with compression valves, but more often these days they contain cartridges that
can be replaced. Unlike a three-handled model, the diverter is a simple gate valve that operated by a lever.
234 ■ COMPLETE GUIDE TO PLUMBINGHI0552_CGPlumb_200-239_.indd 234 Provision (CPI)•CG To Plumbing HI 0552 TEXT 3/14/08 12:29:13 PM CD308-25_3184 1st Proof BLACK
Tips on Replacing a Tub Spout 쑺
Spout
nipple
Allen wrench
Check underneath tub spout for Unscrew faucet spout. Use Spread pipe joint compound
a small access slot. The slot indicates a pipe wrench, or insert a large on threads of spout nipple before
the spout is held in place with an screwdriver or hammer handle into replacing spout.
Allen screw. Remove the screw, using the spout opening and turn spout
an Allen wrench. Spout will slide off. counterclockwise.
■ How to Remove a Deep-set Faucet Valve
Escutcheon
1 Masking tape 2 3
Stem
nipple
Bonnet nut
Remove handle and unscrew Chip away any mortar surrounding Unscrew the bonnet nut with a
the escutcheon with channel-type the bonnet nut, using a ball-peen deep-set ratchet wrench. Remove
pliers. Pad the jaws of the pliers with hammer and a small cold chisel. the bonnet nut and stem from the
masking tape to prevent scratching faucet body.
the escutcheon.
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■ Fixing Single-handle Tub & Shower Faucets
A single-handle tub and shower faucet has one valve
that controls both water flow and temperature.
Single-handle faucets may be ball-type, cartridge, or
lever may break, come loose, or refuse to stay in the
up position. If the diverter fails to work properly,
replace the tub spout (page 235).
disc designs.
If a single-handle control valve leaks or does not
function properly, disassemble the faucet, clean the
valve, and replace any worn parts. Use the repair
techniques described on page 224 for ball-type, or Tools & Materials 쑺
page 225 for ceramic disc. Repairing a single-handle
cartridge faucet is shown on the opposite page. Screwdriver Replacement faucet
Direction of the water flow to either the tub spout Adjustable wrench parts, as needed
or the showerhead is controlled by a gate diverter. Channel-type pliers
Gate diverters seldom need repair. Occasionally, the
Water supply line Built-in shutoff valves
to showerhead
Control
valve
Hot water
supply line
Cold water
supply line Escutcheon
Gate diverter
A single-handle tub/shower faucet is the simplest type to operate and to maintain. The handle controls the mixing ratio of both
hot and cold water, and the diverter is a simple gate valve.
236 ■ COMPLETE GUIDE TO PLUMBINGHI0552_CGPlumb_200-239_.indd 236 Provision (CPI)•CG To Plumbing HI 0552 TEXT 3/25/08 1:20:04 PM CD308-121_4242 2nd Proof BLACK
■ How to Repair a Single-handle Cartridge Tub & Shower Faucet
Handle
1 2 Built-in shutoff valves
3 Bonnet
nut
Escutcheon
Use a screwdriver to remove the Turn off water supply at the built-in Unscrew and remove the retaining ring
handle and escutcheon. shutoff valves or the main shutoff valve. or bonnet nut, using adjustable wrench.
4 5
Cartridge
O-ring
Remove the cartridge assembly by grasping the end of the Flush the valve body with clean water to remove sediment.
valve with channel-type pliers and pulling gently. Replace any worn O-rings. Reinstall the cartridge and test the
valve. If the faucet fails to work properly, replace the cartridge.
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■ Fixing & Replacing Showerheads
I f spray from the showerhead is uneven, clean
the spray holes. The outlet or inlet holes of the
showerhead may get clogged with mineral deposits.
Shower arm
Showerheads pivot into different positions. If a Collar nut
showerhead does not stay in position, or if it leaks,
replace the O-ring that seals against the swivel ball. Swivel ball nut
A tub can be equipped with a shower by installing
Spray adjustment
a flexible shower adapter kit. Complete kits are cam lever
available at hardware stores and home centers.
Swivel ball
Tools & Materials 쑺
O-ring
Adjustable wrench Masking tape
or channel-type Thin wire (paper clip)
pliers Heatproof grease
Pipe wrench Rag
Spray outlets
Drill Replacement O-rings
Glass and tile bit Masonry anchors A typical showerhead can be disassembled easily for
Mallet Flexible shower adapter cleaning and repair. Some showerheads include a spray
Screwdriver kit (optional) adjustment cam lever that is used to change the force of
the spray.
■ How to Clean & Repair a Showerhead
1 2 Inlet
holes
3
Swivel
ball nut O-ring
Collar
nut
Unscrew the swivel ball nut, using Clean outlet and inlet holes of Replace the O-ring, if necessary.
an adjustable wrench or channel-type showerhead with a thin wire. Flush Lubricate the O-ring with heatproof
pliers. Wrap jaws of the tool with the head with clean water. grease before installing.
masking tape to prevent marring
the finish. Unscrew collar nut from
the showerhead.
238 ■ COMPLETE GUIDE TO PLUMBINGHI0552_CGPlumb_200-239_.indd 238 Provision (CPI)•CG To Plumbing HI 0552 TEXT 3/14/08 12:29:22 PM CD308-25_3184 1st Proof BLACK
■ How to Install a Flexible Shower Adapter
1 2 Adapter hose outlet
3
Adapter hose outlet
Flexible
shower
hose
Flexible
shower
hose
Remove old tub spout (page 235). Attach flexible shower hose to Determine location of showerhead
Install new tub spout from kit, using a the adaptor hose outlet. Tighten hanger. Use hose length as a guide, and
pipe wrench. New spout will have an with an adjustable wrench or make sure shower-head can be easily
adapter hose outlet. Wrap the tub spout channel-type pliers. lifted off hanger.
with a rag to prevent damage to the
chrome finish.
4 5 6
Mark hole locations. Use a glass and Insert anchors into holes, and Fasten showerhead holder to the
tile bit to drill holes in ceramic tile for tap into place with a wooden or wall, and hang showerhead.
masonry anchors. rubber mallet.
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Tubs & Showers
T ub or shower not draining? First, make sure it’s
only the tub or shower. If your sink is plugged, too,
it may be a coincidence or it may be that a common
branch line is plugged. A sure sign of this is when
water drains from the sink into the tub. This could
require the help of a drain cleaning service, or a drum
trap that services both the sink and tub needs cleaning.
If the toilet also can’t flush (or worse, water comes
into the tub when you flush the toilet), then the common
drain to all your bathroom fixtures is plugged. Call a drain
cleaning service. If you suspect the problem is only with
your tub or shower, then read on. We’ll show you how
to clear drainlines and clean and adjust two types of tub
stopper mechanisms. Adjusting the mechanism can also
help with the opposite problem: a tub that drains when
you’re trying to take a bath.
Tools & Materials 쑺
Phillips Screwdriver Toothbrush
Plunger Needlenose pliers
Scrub brush Dishwashing brush As with bathroom sinks, tub and shower drain pipes
White Vinager Heatproof grease may become clogged with soap and hair. The drain stopping
mechanisms can also require cleaning and adjustment.
Maintenance Tip 쑺
Like bathroom sinks, tubs and showers face an
ongoing onslaught from soap and hair. When
paired, this pesky combination is a sure-fire
source of clogs. The soap scum coagulates as
it is washed down the drain and binds the hair
together in a mass that grows larger with every
shower or bath. To nip these clogs in the bud,
simply pour boiling hot clean water down the
drain from time to time to melt the soapy mass
and wash the binder away.
240 ■ COMPLETE GUIDE TO PLUMBINGHI0552_CGPlumb_240-279_.indd 240 Provision (CPI)•CG To Plumbing HI 0552 TEXT 3/14/08 8:33:06 PM CD308-25_4242 1st Proof BLACK
Using Hand Augers 쑺
On shower drains, feed the head of
the auger in through the drain opening
after removing the strainer. Crank the
handle of the auger to extend the cable
and the auger head down into the trap
and, if the clog is farther downline,
toward the branch drain. When
clearing any drain, it is always better to
Sloped floor
retrieve the clog than to push it farther
downline.
Drain opening
Floor
Trap arm
Trap Branch drain line
On combination tub/showers, it’s
generally easiest to insert the auger
through the overflow opening after
Overflow drain
removing the coverplate and lifting out
opening
the drain linkage. Crank the handle of
the auger to extend the cable and the
auger head down into the trap and, if
the clog is farther downline, toward the
branch drain. When clearing any drain, it
is always better to retrieve the clog than
to push it farther downline.
Drain line
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■ How to Fix a Plunger-Type Drain
Coverplate
Linkage-adjusting
1
bracket
Trip lever
Overflow drain
Linkage
Plunger A plunger-type tub drain has a
simple grate over the drain opening and
a behind-the-scenes plunger stopper.
Remove the screws on the overflow
Drain opening
coverplate with a slotted or Phillips
screwdriver. Pull the coverplate, linkage,
and plunger from the overflow opening.
Tub shoe
2 3
Clean hair and soap off the plunger with a scrub brush. Adjust the plunger. If your tub isn’t holding water with the
Mineral buildup is best tackled with white vinegar and a plunger down, it’s possible the plunger is hanging too high to
toothbrush or a small wire brush. fully block water from the tub shoe. Loosen the locknut with
needlenose pliers, then screw the rod down about 1⁄8". Tighten
the locknut down. If your tub drains poorly, the plunger may
be set too low. Loosen the locknut and screw the rod in an 1⁄8"
before retightening the locknut.
242 ■ COMPLETE GUIDE TO PLUMBINGHI0552_CGPlumb_240-279_.indd 242 Provision (CPI)•CG To Plumbing HI 0552 TEXT 3/14/08 8:33:11 PM CD308-25_4242 1st Proof BLACK
■ How to Fix a Pop-up Drain
Coverplate 1
Trip lever
Overflow drain
Linkage
Rocker arm
Raise the trip lever to the open
position. Pull the stopper and rocker
Drain opening arm assembly from the drain. Clean off
soap and hair with a dishwashing brush
in a basin of hot water. Clean off mineral
deposits with a toothbrush or small wire
Drain stopper
brush and white vinegar.
2 3 Linkage
adjusting
bracket
Locknut
Remove the screws from the cover plate. Pull the trip Adjust the pop-up stopper mechanism by first loosening
lever and the linkage from the overflow opening. Clean off the locknut on the lift rod. If the stopper doesn’t close all the
soap and hair with a brush in a basin of hot water. Remove way, shorten the linkage by screwing the rod 1⁄8" farther into
mineral buildup with white vinegar and a wire brush. Lubricate the linkage-adjusting bracket. If the stopper doesn’t open wide
moving parts of the linkage and rocker arm mechanism with enough, extend the linkage by unscrewing the rod 1⁄8". Tighten
heatproof grease. the locknut before replacing the mechanism and testing
your adjustment.
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Sink Drains
E very sink has a drain trap and a fixture drain line.
Sink clogs usually are caused by a buildup of soap
and hair in the trap or fixture drain line. Remove clogs
by using a plunger, disconnecting and cleaning the
trap (page 245), or using a hand auger (page 213).
Many sinks hold water with a mechanical plug
called a pop-up stopper. If the sink will not hold
standing water, or if water in the sink drains too slowly,
the pop-up stopper must be cleaned and adjusted
(page 243).
Tools & Materials 쑺
Plunger Rag
Channel-type pliers Bucket Clogged lavatory sinks can be cleared with a plunger (not
Small wire brush Replacement gaskets to be confused with a flanged force-cup). Remove the pop-up
drain plug and strainer first, and plug the overflow hole by
Screwdriver Teflon tape
stuffing a wet rag into it, allowing you to create air pressure
Flashlight with the plunger.
■ How to Clear a Sink Trap
1 2
Slip nuts
Fixture drain line
Trap bend
Place bucket under trap to catch water and debris. Loosen Dump out debris. Clean trap bend with a small wire brush.
slip nuts on trap bend with channel-type pliers. Unscrew nuts Inspect slip nut washers for wear, and replace if necessary.
by hand and slide away from connections. Pull off trap bend. Reinstall trap bend and tighten slip nuts.
244 ■ COMPLETE GUIDE TO PLUMBINGHI0552_CGPlumb_240-279_.indd 244 Provision (CPI)•CG To Plumbing HI 0552 TEXT 3/14/08 8:33:15 PM CD308-25_4242 1st Proof BLACK
■ How to Clear a Kitchen Sink
Drainline from
1 dishwasher
2
Plunging a kitchen sink is not difficult, but you need to If there is a second basin, have a helper hold a basket
create an uninterrupted pressure lock between the plunger strainer plug in its drain or put a large pot or bucket full of
and the clog. If you have a dishwasher, the drain tube needs water on top of it. Unfold the skirt within the plunger and place
to be clamped shut and sealed off at the disposer or drainline. this in the drain of the sink you are plunging. There should be
The pads on the clamp should be large enough to flatten the enough water in the sink to cover the plunger head. Plunge
tube across its full diameter (or you can clamp the tube ends rhythmically for six repetitions with increasing vigor, pulling up
between small boards). hard on the last repitition. Repeat this sequence until the clog
is removed. Flush out a cleared clog with plenty of hot water.
■ How to Use a Hand Auger at the Trap Arm
1 2
If plunging doesn’t work, remove the trap and clean it out If you suspect the clog is downstream of the trap,
(see previous page). With the trap off, see if water flows freely remove the trap arm from the fitting at the wall. Look in the
from both sinks (if you have two). Sometimes clogs will lodge fixture drain with a flashlight. If you see water, that means
in the T-fitting or one of the waste pipes feeding it. These may the fixture drain is plugged. Clear it with a hand auger (see
be pulled out manually or cleared with a bottlebrush or wire. page 213).
When reassembling the trap, apply Teflon tape clockwise to
the male threads of metal waste pieces. Tighten with your
channel-type pliers. Plastic pieces need no tape and should
be hand tightened only.
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Branch & Main Drains
I f using a plunger or a hand auger does not clear a
clog in a fixture drain line, it means that the blockage
may be in a branch line, the main waste-vent stack, or
surface, but it can be identified by its two openings.
Use a hand auger to clean a house trap.
If the auger meets solid resistance in the sewer line,
the sewer service line. retrieve the cable and inspect the bit. Fine, hair-like
First, use an auger to clear the branch drain line roots on the bit indicate the line is clogged with tree
closest to any stopped-up fixtures. Branch drain lines roots. Dirt on the bit indicates a collapsed line.
may be serviced through the cleanout fittings located Use a power auger to clear sewer service lines
at the end of the branch. Because waste water may be that are clogged with tree roots. Power augers (page
backed up in the drain lines, always open a cleanout 248 to 249) are available at rental centers. However,
with caution. Place a bucket and rags under the a power auger is a large, heavy piece of equipment.
opening to catch waste water. Never position yourself Before renting, consider the cost of rental and the
directly under a cleanout opening while unscrewing level of your do-it-yourself skills versus the price of
the plug or cover. a professional sewer cleaning service. If you rent
If using an auger on the branch line does not solve a power auger, ask the rental dealer for complete
the problem, then the clog may be located in a main instructions on how to operate the equipment.
waste-vent stack. To clear the stack, run an auger Always consult a professional sewer cleaning
cable down through the roof vent. Make sure that the service if you suspect a collapsed line.
cable of your auger is long enough to reach down the
entire length of the stack. If it is not, you may want
to rent or borrow another auger. Always use extreme Tools & Materials 쑺
caution when working on a ladder or on a roof.
Adjustable wrench Penetrating oil
If no clog is present in the main stack, the problem
or pipe wrench Cleanout plug
may be located in the sewer service line. Locate the
Hand auger (if needed)
main cleanout, usually a Y-shaped fitting at the bottom
Cold chisel Pipe joint compound
of the main waste-vent stack. Remove the plug and
Ball-peen hammer Electrical drum
push the cable of a hand auger into the opening.
Bucket auger
Some sewer service lines in older homes have
Ladder Gloves
a house trap. The house trap is a U-shaped fitting
Phillips screwdriver Teflon Tape
located at the point where the sewer line exits the
Rags
house. Most of the fitting will be beneath the floor
Main waste-vent stack Fixture drain line
Cleanout fitting
and plugs
Branch drain line
Sanitary Y-fitting
Clear a branch drain line by locating the cleanout fitting at the end of the line. Place a bucket underneath the opening to catch
waste water, then slowly unscrew the cleanout plug with an adjustable wrench. Clear clogs in the branch drain line with a hand
auger.
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■ How to Clear a Branch Drain Line
1 2
Street side
House side
Clear the main waste and vent stack Clear the house trap in a sewer service line using a hand auger. Slowly remove
by running the cable of a hand auger only the plug on the “street side” of the trap. If water seeps out the opening as the
down through the roof vent. Always use plug is removed, the clog is in the sewer line beyond the trap. If no water seeps
extreme caution while working on a out, auger the trap. If no clog is present in the trap, replace the street-side plug and
ladder or roof. remove the house-side plug. Use the auger to clear clogs located between the house
trap and main stack.
■ How to Replace a Main Drain Cleanout Plug
1 2
Cleanout
plug
Remove the cleanout plug, using a large wrench. If the plug Remove stubborn plugs by placing the cutting edge of a
does not turn out, apply penetrating oil around the edge of the cold chisel on the edge of the plug. Strike the chisel with a
plug, wait 10 minutes, and try again. Place rags and a bucket ball-peen hammer to move plug counterclockwise. If the plug
under fitting opening to catch any water that may be backed does not turn out, break it into pieces with the chisel and
up in the line. hammer. Remove all broken pieces.
Wing nut
3
Cleanout
fitting Metal plates
Replace the old plug with a new plug. Apply pipe joint Alternate: Replace the old plug with an expandable rubber
compound to the threads of the replacement plug and screw plug. A wing nut squeezes the rubber core between two metal
into the cleanout fitting. plates. The rubber bulges slightly to create a watertight seal.
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■ How to Power-Auger a Floor Drain
1 Power Auger Large Lines 쑺
If you choose to auger a larger line, you may find
yourself opening a cleanout with 10 or 20 vertical
feet of waste water behind it. Be careful. The cap
may unexpectedly burst open when it’s loose
enough, spewing noxious waste water uncontrollably
over anything in its path, including you! Here are
some precautions:
Whenever possible, remove a trap or cleanout
close to the top of the backed-up water level. Run
your auger through this. Make sure the auger and its
electric connections will not get wet should waste
Remove the cover from the floor drain using a slotted or water spew forcefully from the cleanout opening.
Phillips screwdriver. On one wall of the drain bowl you’ll see a Use the spear tool on the power auger first,
cleanout plug. Remove the cleanout plug from the drain bowl to let the water drain out through a smaller hole
with your largest channel-type pliers. This cleanout allows you
before widening it with a larger cutting tool. If you are
to bypass the trap. If it’s stuck, apply penetrating oil to the
augering through a 3 or 4" cleanout, use three bits:
threads and let it sit a half an hour before trying to free it again.
If the wrench won’t free it, rent a large pipe wrench from your the spear, a small cutter, and then a larger cutter to
home center or hardware store. You can also auger through do the best job.
the trap if you have to.
2 3
Rent an electric drum auger with at least 50 feet of 1⁄2-inch Wear close-fitting clothing and contain long hair. Place the
cable. The rental company should provide a properly sized, power auger machine in a dry location within 3 ft. of the drain
grounded extension cord, heavy leather gloves, and eye opening. Plug the tool into a grounded, GFI-protected circuit.
protection. The auger should come with a spear tool, cutter Wear eye protection and gloves. Position the footswitch where
tool, and possibly a spring tool suitable for a 2-inch drainline. it is easy to actuate. Make sure the FOR/REV switch is in the
Attach the spearhead first (with the machine unplugged). Forward position (inset photo). Hand feed the cleaning tool
and some cable into the drain or cleanout before turning the
machine on.
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4 5
Stationary power augers (as opposed to pistol-grip types) With both gloved hands on the cable, depress the foot
are controlled by a foot pedal called an actuator so you can actuator to start the machine. Gradually push the rotating
turn the power on and off hands-free. cable into the drain opening. If the rotation slows or you
cannot feed more cable into the drain, pull back on the cable
before pushing it forward again. Don’t force it. The cable needs
to be rotating whenever the motor is running or it can kink and
buckle. If the cleaning tool becomes stuck, reverse it, back the
tool off the obstruction, and switch back to Forward.
6 7
Gradually work through the clog by pulling back on the After clearing the drain pipe, run the auger through the
cable whenever the machine starts to bog down and push it trap. Finish cleaning the auger. Wrap Teflon tape clockwise onto
forward again when it gains new momentum. Never let the the plug threads and replace the plug. Run hot water through a
cable stop turning when the motor is running. When you have hose from the laundry sink or use a bucket to flush remaining
broken through the clog or snagged an object, withdraw the debris through the trap and down the line.
cable from the line. Manually pull the cable from the drain line
while continuing to run the drum Forward. When the cleaning
tool is close to the drain opening, release the foot actuator and
let the cable come to a stop before feeding the last 2 or 3 ft. of
cable into the drum by hand.
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Branch Drains & Vents
I n our demonstration project, we will replace branch
drains for a bathtub and vanity sink. The tub drain
will run down into the basement before connecting to
the main waste-vent stack, while the vanity drain will
run horizontally to connect directly to the stack.
A vent pipe for the bathtub runs up into the attic,
where it will join the main waste-vent stack. The
vanity sink, however, requires no secondary vent pipe,
since its location falls within the critical distance of
the new waste-vent stack.
Tools & Materials 쑺
Reciprocating saw Metal Protector
or jigsaw plates
Drain pipe Vent elbow
Riser clamps
Remove old pipes only where they obstruct the planned
Solvent glue route for the new pipes. You will probably have to remove
Marker drain and water supply pipes at each fixture location, but the
remaining pipes usually can be left in place. A reciprocating
saw with metal-cutting blade works well for this job.
■ How to Replace Branch Drains
1 2
Establish a route for vertical drain pipes running through From the basement, cut a hole in the bottom of the wall,
wall cavities down into the basement. For our project, we cut below the opening you cut. Measure, cut, and insert a length of
away a section of the wall sole plate in order to run a 11⁄2" drain pipe up into the wall to the bathroom. A length of flexible
bathtub drain pipe from the basement up to the bathroom. CPVC pipe can be useful for guiding the drain pipe up into the
wall. For very long pipe runs, you may need to join two or more
lengths of pipe with couplings as you insert the run.
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3 Riser clamp 4
Cleanout
2 × 4 block
Secure the vertical drain pipe with a riser clamp supported Install a horizontal pipe from the waste T-fitting on
on 2 × 4 blocks nailed between joists. Take care not to the waste-vent stack to the vertical drain pipe. Maintain
overtighten the clamps, which can damage the pipe. a downward slope toward the stack of 1⁄4" per ft., and use
a Y-fitting with 45° elbow to form a cleanout where the
horizontal and vertical drain pipes meet.
5 6
Solvent-glue a waste T-fitting to the top of the vertical drain From the attic, cut a hole into the top of the bathroom wet
pipe. For a bathtub drain, as shown here, the T-fitting must be wall, directly above the bathtub drain pipe. Run a 11⁄2" vent
well below floor level to allow for the bathtub drain trap. You pipe down to the bathtub location, and solvent-glue it to the
may need to notch or cut a hole in floor joists to connect the waste-T. Make sure the pipe extends at least 1 ft. into the attic.
drain trap to the waste-T.
(continued)
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7
Remove wall surfaces as necessary to provide access for running horizontal drain pipes from fixtures to the new waste-vent
stack. In our project, we ran 11⁄2" drain pipe from a vanity sink to the stack. Mark the drain route on the exposed studs, maintaining
a 1⁄4" per ft. downward slope toward the stack. Use a reciprocating saw or jigsaw to notch out the studs.
8 Riser clamp 9
Secure the old drain and vent pipes with riser clamps Remove the old drain and water supply pipes, where
supported by blocking attached between the studs. necessary, to provide space for running the new drain pipes.
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10
Using a sweep elbow and straight length of pipe, assemble a drain pipe to run from the drain stubout location to the waste
T-fitting on the new waste-vent stack. Use a 90° elbow and a short length of pipe to create a stubout extending at least 2" out from
the wall. Secure the stubout to a 3⁄4" backer board attached between studs.
11 12
Protect the drain pipes by attaching metal protector plates In the attic, use a vent elbow and straight length of pipe
over the notches in the studs. Protector plates prevent drain to connect the vertical vent pipe from the tub to the new
pipes from being punctured when wall surfaces are replaced. waste-vent stack.
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Main Stacks
A lthough a main waste-vent stack rarely rusts
through entirely, it can be nearly impossible
to join new branch drains and vents to an old cast-
iron stack. For this reason, plumbing contractors
sometimes recommend replacing the iron stack with
plastic pipe during a plumbing renovation project.
Be aware that replacing a main waste-vent stack
is not an easy job. You will be cutting away heavy
sections of cast iron, so working with a helper is
essential. Before beginning work, make sure you have
a complete plan for your plumbing system and have
designed a stack that includes all the fittings you will
need to connect branch drains and vent pipes. While
work is in progress, none of your plumbing fixtures
will be usable. To speed up the project and minimize
inconvenience, do as much of the demolition and
preliminary construction work as you can before
starting work on the stack.
Because main waste-vent stacks may be as large
as 4" in diameter, running a new stack through existing
walls can be troublesome. To solve this problem, our
project employs a common solution: framing a chase
in the corner of a room to provide the necessary space
for running the new stack from the basement to the
attic. When the installation is completed, the chase
will be finished with wallboard to match the room.
Tools & Materials 쑺
Riser clamps Rubber gasket
Cast-iron snapcutter flashing nails
Reciprocating saw
Rag
Plumb bob
PVC plastic pipe
Waste-vent pipe
Solvent glue
Ladder
Vent T
Pry bar
Roofing cement
A new main waste-vent stack is best installed near the
location of the old stack. In this way, the new stack can be
connected to the basement floor cleanout fitting used by the
old cast-iron stack.
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■ How to Replace a Main Waste-Vent Stack
1
Riser clamp
Blocking
Secure the cast-iron waste-vent stack near the ceiling of your basement, using a riser clamp installed between the floor
joists. Use wood blocks attached to the joists with 3" wallboard screws to support the clamp. Also clamp the stack in the attic, at
the point where the stack passes down into the wall cavity. Warning: A cast-iron stack running from basement to attic can weigh
several hundred pounds. Never cut into a cast-iron stack before securing it with riser clamps above the cut.
2 3
Blocking
Use a cast-iron snap cutter (page 268) or a reciprocating Nail blocking against the bottom of the joists across the
saw to sever the stack near the floor of the basement, about severed stack. Then, cut a 6"-diameter hole in the basement
8" above the cleanout, and near the ceiling, flush with the ceiling where the new waste-vent stack will run, using a
bottom of the joists. Have a helper hold the stack while you are reciprocating saw. Suspend a plumb bob at the centerpoint
cutting out the section. Note: After cutting into the main stack, of the opening as a guide for aligning the new stack.
plug the open end of the pipe with a cloth to prevent sewer
gases from rising into your home.
(continued)
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4 5
Banded coupling
45° elbow
Attach a 5-ft. segment of PVC plastic pipe the same Dry-fit 45° elbows and straight lengths of plastic pipe to
diameter as the old waste-vent stack to the exposed end of offset the new stack, lining it up with the plumb bob centered
the cast-iron cleanout fitting, using a banded coupling with on the ceiling opening.
neoprene sleeve.
6 T-fitting 7
Floor shown
cutaway for clarity
Dry-fit a waste T-fitting on the stack, with the inlets Determine the length for the next piece of waste-vent
necessary for any branch drains that will be connected in pipe by measuring from the basement T-fitting to the next
the basement. Make sure the fitting is positioned at a height planned fitting in the vertical run. In our project, we installed
that will allow the branch drains to have the correct 1⁄4" per ft. a T-fitting between floor joists, where the toilet drain
downward slope toward the stack. was connected.
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8 9
Cut a PVC plastic pipe to length, raise it into the opening, Check the length of the stack, then solvent-glue all fittings
and dry-fit it to the T-fitting. Note: For very long pipe runs, you together. Support the new stack with a riser clamp resting on
may need to construct this vertical run by solvent-gluing two blocks attached between basement ceiling joists.
or more segments of pipe together with couplings.
10 11
Bathroom
Sole plate for
framed chase
Attach the next waste T-fitting to the stack. In our Add additional lengths of pipe, with waste T-fittings
demonstration project, the waste-T lay between floor joists and installed where other fixtures will drain into the stack. In our
was used to connect the toilet drain. Make sure the waste-T is example, a waste-T with a 11⁄2" bushing insert was installed
positioned at a height that will allow for the correct 1⁄4" per ft. where the vanity sink drain was attached to the stack. Make
downward slope for the toilet drain. sure the T-fittings are positioned to allow for the correct
downward pitch of the branch drains.
(continued)
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12
Cut a hole in the ceiling where the waste-vent stack will extend into the attic, then measure, cut, and solvent-glue the next
length of pipe in place. The pipe should extend at least 1 ft. up into the attic.
13 14
Remove the roof flashing from around the old waste-vent In the attic, remove old vent pipes, where necessary, then
stack. You may need to remove shingles in order to accomplish sever the cast-iron soil stack with a cast-iron cutter, and
this. Note: Always use caution when working on a roof. If you lower the stack down from the roof opening with the aid of
are unsure of your ability to do this work, hire a roof repair a helper. Support the old stack with a riser clamp installed
specialist to remove the old flashing and install new flashing between joists.
around the new vent pipe.
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15 16
Solvent-glue a vent T with a 11⁄2" bushing in the side inlet Finish the waste-vent stack installation by using 45°
to the top of the new waste-vent stack. The side inlet should elbows and straight lengths of pipe to extend the stack
point toward the nearest auxiliary vent pipe extending up through the existing roof opening. The new stack should
from below. extend at least 1 ft. through the roof, but no more than 2 ft.
■ How to Flash a Waste-Vent Stack
1 2
Loosen the shingles directly above the new vent stack, and Slide the flashing over the vent pipe, and carefully tuck the
remove any nails, using a flat pry bar. When installed, the metal base of the flashing up under the shingles. Press the flange
vent flashing will lie flat on the shingles surrounding the vent firmly against the roof deck to spread the roofing cement, then
pipe. Apply roofing cement to the underside of the flashing. anchor it with rubber gasket flashing nails. Reattach loose
shingles as necessary.
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Supply Pipes
W hen replacing old water supply pipes, we
recommend that you use Type M rigid copper or
PEX. Use 3⁄4" pipe for the main distribution pipes and 1⁄2"
pipes for the branch lines running to individual fixtures.
For convenience, run hot and cold water pipes
parallel to one another, between 3" and 6" apart. Use the
straightest, most direct routes possible when planning
the layout, because too many bends in the pipe runs can
cause significant resistance and reduce water pressure.
It is a good idea to remove old supply pipes that
Wire
are exposed, but pipes hidden in walls can be left in hangers
place unless they interfere with the installation of the
new supply pipes.
Pipe
straps
Tools & Materials 쑺
Male-threaded Copper pipes
adapter T-fittings Support copper supply pipes at least every 10 ft. along vertical
Full-bone control runs and 6 ft. along horizontal runs (check local codes). Always
valve use copper or plastic support materials with copper; never use
steel, which can interact with copper and cause corrosion.
■ How to Replace Water Supply Pipes
Main shutoff
1 2
Water meter
Full-bore ball valve
on house side
Shut off the water on the street side of the water meter, At the water heater, install a 3⁄4" T-fitting in the cold-water
then disconnect and remove the old water pipes from the distribution pipe. Use two lengths of 3⁄4" copper pipe and a
house side. Solder a 3⁄4" male-threaded adapter and full-bore full-bore control valve to run a branch pipe to the water heater.
control valve to a short length of 3⁄4" copper pipe, then attach From the outlet opening on the water heater, extend a 3⁄4"
this assembly to the house side of the water meter. Extend hot water distribution pipe. Continue the hot and cold supply
the 3⁄4" cold-water distribution pipe toward the nearest fixture, lines on parallel routes toward the next group of fixtures in
which is usually the water heater. your house.
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3 4
Full brass
control valves
Establish routes for branch supply lines by drilling holes Extend the branch lines to the fixtures. In our project,
located in stud cavities. Install T-fittings, then begin the branch we ran 3⁄4" vertical branch lines up through the framed chase
lines by installing brass control valves. Branch lines should be to the bathroom. Route pipes around obstacles, such as a
made with 3⁄4" pipe if they are supplying more than one fixture; main waste-vent stack, by using 45° and 90° elbows and short
1
⁄2" if they are supplying only one fixture. lengths of pipe.
5 6
Where branch lines run through studs or floor joists, Install 3⁄4" to 1⁄2" reducing T-fittings and elbows to extend
drill holes or cut notches in the framing members, then insert the branch lines to individual fixtures. In our bathroom, we
the pipes. For long runs of pipe, you may need to join two or installed a hot and cold stubout for the bathtub and sink, and
more shorter lengths of pipe, using couplings as you create a cold-water stubout for the toilet. Cap each stubout until your
the runs. work has been inspected and the wall surfaces have been
completed.
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Burst Pipes
I f a water pipe freezes and breaks, your first priority
may be getting it working again—whatever it takes.
There are a number of temporary fix products out
there, some involving clamps and sleeves, others,
epoxy putties and fiberglass tape. These repairs usually
can get you through a weekend okay. We also show
you how to apply full slip repair couplings, a more
permanent fix. Whatever repair approach you take,
please, please, please, don’t leave for the store without
first determining a) the diameter of your pipe and
b) the material of your pipe.
Tools & Materials 쑺
Metal file
Repair clamps
Marker
Tubing cutter
Adjustable wrench
Pliers Water supply pipes can burst for many reasons, but the
most common cause is water freezing and expanding inside
the pipe. First turn off the water, then apply a fix.
■ How to Patch Pipes with Repair Clamps
1 2 3
Dry off the damaged area of the pipe Position the two halves of the Insert bolts through the bolt holes
and file down any sharp edges with a repair clamp so the rubber sleeve is in the repair clamp and thread nuts
metal file. Place the rubber sleeve that sandwiched between the repair clamps. onto the ends. Tighten the bolts until
comes with the repair clamp around the pressure from the clamp seals the
the ruptured area. The seam should be damages area. Note: This is a temporary
on the opposite side of the pipe from repair only. Replace the damaged pipe
the damage. as soon as possible.
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■ How to Install a Repair Coupling
1 2
Full slip repair
coupling
For a longer lasting (not permanent) repair, use a Cut out the damaged pipe section with a tubing cutter.
compression-fit, full-slip repair coupling. These come with Both wheels of the cutter should rest evenly on the pipe.
parts to make a compression union—you can also buy a slip Rotate the cutter around the pipe. The line it cuts should make
coupling that’s just a piece of copper tubing with an inside a perfect ring, not a spiral. Tighten the cutter a little with each
diameter equal to the outside diameter of the tubing being rotation until the pipe snaps. Repeat at your other mark.
repaired, but these require soldering. Turn off water at the
nearest control valve. Mark the boundaries of the pipe section
to be replaced.
3 4 Supply pipe
Compression Compression ring
nut
Repair coupling
Compression
union
Supply pipe
Deburr the insides of the pipes with the triangular blade Slip the compression nuts and rings supplied with the
on the tubing cutter. repair coupling onto the cut ends of the pipe being repaired
and then slip the repair coupling over one end. Slide the
coupling farther onto the pipe and then slide it back the other
way so it fits over the other pipe section and the repair area
is centered inside the coupling. Tighten each compression
nut with pliers while stabilizing the coupling with an
adjustable wrench.
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Noisy Pipes
P ipes can make a loud banging noise when faucets
are turned off or when valves on washing machines
(or other automatic appliances) shut abruptly. The
old-style air chambers, water cannot fill a water
hammer arrester, so they should be effective for the
life of the system.
sudden stop of flowing water traps air and creates a Pipes that bang against studs or joists can be
shock wave, called water hammer, that slams through quieted by cushioning them with pieces of pipe
the water supply system. Some pipes may knock insulation. Make sure pipe hangers are snug and
against wall studs or joists, creating additional noise. that pipes are well supported.
Water hammer can be more than an annoyance.
The shockwave can cause damage and eventually
failure in pipes and fittings. If a pressure-relief valve Tools & Materials 쑺
on your water heater leaks, it may not be a faulty valve,
but a pressure surge in the supply system. Reciprocating saw Foam rubber
You can eliminate water hammer by installing a or hacksaw pipe insulation
simple device called a water hammer arrester in the Propane torch (for Pipe and fittings,
supply line. Inexpensive point-of-use arresters are sweating copper) as needed
small enough to be installed easily near the noisy Pipe wrenches (for Utility knife
valve or appliance (the closer the better). They can galvanized iron) Teflon tape
be positioned horizontally or vertically or at an angle Adjustable wrench
without any change in effectiveness. Unlike with
Clattering pipes can be a major annoyance, but they also Loose pipes may bang or rub against joist hangers,
should alert you of a problem with the supply system. creating noise. Use pieces of foam rubber pipe insulation to
cushion pipes.
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■ How to Install a Water Hammer Arrester
1 2 3 Short pipe
Branch arm
T-fitting
Shut off the water supply and Install a T-fitting as close to the valve Install a short piece of pipe in
drain the pipes. Measure and cut out a as possible. Use techniques described the branch arm of the T-fitting. This
section of horizontal pipe for a T-fitting. on pages. short pipe will be used to attach a
threaded fitting.
4 5
Install a threaded fitting. Use a fitting Wrap the threads of the arrester in Teflon tape. Thread the arrester onto the
recommended by the manufacturer of fitting by hand. Tighten by holding the fitting with one adjustable wrench and turning
your arrester. the arrester with the other. Do not overtighten. Turn the water on and check for leaks.
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Plumbing
Tools, Materials
& Skills
H ome plumbing does not require many expensive
specialty tools. A good pair of channel-type pliers
will carry much of the load by themselves. But occasions
will arise where having a spud wrench or a basin wrench
may well be worth the small investment required for
these plumbing tools. Larger, more expensive tools such
as an electric drain auger can be rented. As with any
home improvement pursuit, plumbing simply demands
that you choose the correct tool for the job. This chapter
will help you make these choices.
The type of plumbing material you employ has a
profound effect on how you do the job. Plastic pipes
are joined by solvent weld, while copper sweated and
pieces of PEX are joined with crimping rings. Each
type of material carries with it a small army of fittings
and adapters and handling tools. Here, you’ll see how
to match the parts correctly.
Finally, good work comes down to good technique
and patience. We can’t teach you patience, but here
we show you the techniques you’ll need to become an
accomplished home plumber.
In this chapter:
• Plumbing Tools • Cast Iron
• Plumbing Materials • Pipe Fittings
• Copper • Shutoff Valves
• Rigid Plastic Pipe • Valves & Hose Bibs
• Outdoor Flexible Plastic Pipe • Compression Fittings
• Cross-Linked Plyethylene • Flare Fittings
(PEX) • Gas Pipe Fittings
• Galvanized Iron
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Plumbing Tools
M any plumbing projects and repairs can be
completed with basic hand tools you probably
already own. Adding a few simple plumbing tools will
Always care for tools properly. Clean tools after
using them, wiping them free of dirt and dust with a
soft rag. Prevent rust on metal tools by wiping them
prepare you for all the projects in this book. Specialty with a rag dipped in household oil. If a metal tool gets
tools, such as a snap cutter or appliance dolly, are wet, dry it immediately, and then wipe it with an oiled
available at rental centers. When buying tools, invest rag. Keep toolboxes and cabinets organized. Make sure
in quality products. all tools are stored securely.
Caulk gun is designed to
hold tubes of caulk or glue.
A squeeze handle pushes
a steady bead of caulk or
glue out of the nozzle.
Flashlight is an indispensable plumber’s helper
for inspecting pipes and drain openings.
Circuit tester is an important safety device
that allows the user to test for live current in an
electrical outlet or appliance.
Ratchet wrench is used for tightening or loosening
bolts and nuts. It has interchangeable sockets.
Hacksaw is used for cutting metal. Also
can be used for cutting plastic pipes.
Utility knife has
a sharp blade for
Small wire brush has soft brass cutting a wide variety
bristles for cleaning metals without of materials. Useful
damaging surfaces. for trimming ends of
plastic pipes.
Cold chisel is used with a ball-peen
hammer or maul to cut or chip ceramic
tile, mortar, or hardened metals.
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Files are used to smooth the edges of metal, wood, or plastic. The round file (top) can be used
to remove burrs from the insides of pipes. The flat file is used for all general smoothing tasks.
Ball-peen hammer
is made for striking
metallic tools, like a
cold chisel.
Screwdrivers include the two most common types:
the slotted (top), and the Phillips.
A basin wrench fits into
the tight area behind a sink
to tighten and loosen the nut
on the faucet tailpieces
Adjustable wrench has a movable jaw that
permits the wrench to fit a wide variety of
bolt heads or nuts.
Channel-type pliers have a movable handle that allows the jaws
to be adjusted for maximum gripping strength. The insides of the
jaws are serrated to prevent slipping.
Needlenose pliers have thin jaws
for gripping small objects or for
reaching into confined areas.
Tape measure should have
Putty knife is helpful for scraping putty a retractable steel blade at Level is used for setting
or caulk from appliances and fixtures. least 16 feet long. new appliances and
checking slope.
(continued)
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Tubing cutter makes straight,
smooth cuts in plastic and copper
pipe. A tubing cutter usually has
a triangular blade for removing
burrs from the insides of pipes.
Closet auger is used to clear toilet
clogs. It is a slender tube with a crank
handle on one end of a flexible auger
cable. A special bend in the tube
allows the auger to be positioned
in the bottom of the toilet bowl. The
bend is usually protected with a
rubber sleeve to prevent scratching
the toilet.
Plastic tubing cutter works
like a gardener’s pruners to cut
flexible plastic pipes quickly.
Spud wrench is specially designed for removing
or tightening large nuts that are 2 to 4" in diameter.
Hooks on the ends of the wrench grab onto the lugs
of large nuts for increased leverage.
Plunger clears drain clogs
with water and air pressure.
The force cup (shown) is
used for toilet bowls. The
flange usually can be folded
up into the cup for use as a
standard plunger.
Blow bag, sometimes called an
Hand auger, sometimes called a snake, is used to
expansion nozzle, is used to clear drains.
clear clogs in drain lines. A long, flexible steel cable is
It attaches to a garden hose and removes
stored in the disk-shaped crank. A pistol-grip handle
clogs with powerful spurts of water. The
allows the user to apply steady pressure on the cable.
blow bag is best used on floor drains.
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Propane torch (left)
is used for soldering
fittings to copper pipes. 3 ⁄ 8 " power drill
Light the torch quickly
and safely using a
spark lighter (above).
Reciprocating
saw
Power
screwdriver
Power hand tools can make any job faster, easier, and safer. Cordless power tools
offer added convenience. Use a cordless 3⁄8" power drill for virtually any drilling task.
Motorized
drain auger
Power miter box
Right-angle
drill
Appliance dolly
Pipe wrench has a movable jaw that
adjusts to fit a variety of pipe diameters. Snap cutter
Pipe wrench is used for tightening and
loosening pipes, pipe fittings, and large Rental tools may be needed for large jobs and special situations. A power miter
nuts. Two pipe wrenches often are used saw makes fast, accurate cuts in a wide variety of materials, including plastic pipes.
together to prevent damage to pipes A motorized drain auger clears tree roots from sewer service lines. Use an appliance
and fittings. dolly to move heavy objects like water heaters. A snap cutter is designed to cut tough
cast-iron pipes. The right-angle drill is useful for drilling holes in hard-to-reach areas.
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Plumbing Materials
Common Pipe & Tube Types 쑺
Benefits & Characteristics
ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) was once approved for use in DWV
systems. Most local codes now prohibit ABS for new installations, but in some
cases it can be added to pre-existing ABS DWV systems.
Cast iron is strong but hard to work with. Repairs should be made with plastic
pipe, if allowed.
PVC (polyvinyl chloride) is rigid plastic that resists heat and chemicals.
Lightweight tubes and heavier Schedule 40.
CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride) rigid plastic is inexpensive and withstands
high temperature and pressure.
Chromed brass has an attractive shiny surface and is used for drain traps where
appearance is important.
PE (polyethylene) plastic is a black or bluish flexible pipe sometimes used for
main water service lines as well as irrigation systems.
Black pipe (iron pipe) generally is threaded at the ends to accept female-
threaded fittings. Not for potable water.
Rigid copper is used for water supply pipes. It resists corrosion and has smooth
surfaces for good water flow.
Braided metal is used for water supply tubes that connect shutoff valves to
fixtures.
Flexible stainless steel (protective coated) connectors are used to attach gas
appliances to supply stopcocks.
Flexible stainless steel (uncoated) connectors are used to attach gas appliances
to supply stopcocks
Chromed copper supply tube is used in areas where appearance is important.
Easy to bend and fit.
PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) is flexible and is approved by major building
codes for water supply.
Flexible copper tubing (not shown) bends easily and requires fewer couplings
than rigid copper.
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Common Uses Lengths Diameters Fitting Methods Tools Used for Cutting
Pipes; drain traps Sold by linear ft. 2", 3", 4" Glue and plastic Miter box or hacksaw
Main drain- waste-vent stack 5 ft., 10 ft. 3", 4" Banded neoprene couplings Snap cutter or hacksaw
Drain & vent pipes; drain 10 ft., 20 ft.; or sold by 11⁄4", 11⁄2", 2", 3", 4" Solvent glue and/or plastic Tubing cutter, miter box, or hacksaw
traps linear ft. fittings
Hot & cold water supply pipes 10 ft. 3⁄ 8", 1⁄ 2", 3⁄4", 1" Solvent glue and plastic fittings, Tubing cutter, miter box, or hacksaw
or with compression fittings
Valves & shutoffs; drain traps, Lengths vary 11⁄4", 1⁄2", 3⁄4", 11⁄4", Compression fittings, or with Tubing cutter, hacksaw, or
supply risers 1 1⁄ 2" metal solder reciprocating saw
Outdoor cold water supply Sold in coils of 25 to 1⁄4" to 1" Rigid PVC fittings and stainless Ratchet-style plastic pipe cutter or
pipes hundreds of ft. steel hose miter saw
Gas supply pipe Sold in lengths up to 10 ft. 3⁄4", 1" Threaded connectors Hacksaw, power cutoff saw or
reciprocating saw with bi-metal
blade
Hot & cold water supply pipes 10 ft., 20 ft.; or sold by 3⁄ 8", 1⁄ 2", 3⁄4", 1" Metal solder or compression Tubing cutter, hacksaw, or jig saw
linear ft. fittings
Supply tubes 12" or 20" 3⁄ 8" Compression coupling or Do not cut
compression fittings
Gas ranges, dryers, water 36" or 48" 5⁄ 8", 1⁄ 2" (OD) Compression coupling Do not cut
heaters
Gas ranges, dryers, water 36" or 48" 5⁄ 8", 1⁄ 2" (OD) Compression coupling Do not cut
heaters
Supply tubing 12", 20", 30" 3⁄ 8" Brass compression fittings Tubing cutter or hacksaw
Water supply, tubing for Sold in coils of 25 ft. to 1⁄4" to 1" Crimp fittings Tubing cutter
radiant floors hundreds of ft.
Gas supply; hot & cold water 30-ft., 60-ft. coils; or by ft. 1⁄4", 3⁄ 8", 1⁄ 2", 3⁄4", 1” Brass flare fittings, solder, Tubing cutter or hacksaw
supply compression fittings,
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Copper
C opper is the ideal material for water supply pipes.
It resists corrosion and has smooth surfaces that
provide good water flow. Copper pipes are available
in several diameters (page 314), but most home water
supply systems use 1⁄2" or 3⁄4" pipe. Copper pipe is
manufactured in rigid and flexible forms.
Rigid copper, sometimes called hard copper, is
approved for home water supply systems by all local
codes. It comes in three wall-thickness grades: Types M,
L, and K. Type M is the thinnest, the least expensive,
and a good choice for do-it-yourself home plumbing.
Rigid Type L usually is required by code for
commercial plumbing systems. Because it is strong
and solders easily, Type L may be preferred by some
professional plumbers and do-it-yourselfers for home
use. Type K has the heaviest wall thickness and is
used most often for underground water service lines.
Flexible copper, also called soft copper, comes in
two wall-thickness grades: Types L and K. Both are
approved for most home water supply systems, although
flexible Type L copper is used primarily for gas service
lines. Because it is bendable and will resist a mild
frost, Type L may be installed as part of a water supply
system in unheated indoor areas, like crawl spaces.
Type K is used for underground water service lines.
A third form of copper, called DWV, is used for drain
systems. Because most codes now allow low-cost plastic
pipes for drain systems, DWV copper is seldom used.
Soldered fittings, also called sweat fittings, often are used to
Copper pipes are connected with soldered,
join copper pipes. Correctly soldered fittings (pages 278 to 280)
compression, or flare fittings (see chart below). Always are strong and trouble-free. Copper pipe can also be joined
follow your local code for the correct types of pipes with compression fittings (pages 312 to 313) or flare fittings
and fittings allowed in your area. (page 317). See chart below.
Copper Pipe & Fitting Chart 쑺
Rigid Copper Flexible Copper
Fitting Method Type M Type L Type K Type L Type K General Comments
Soldered yes yes yes yes yes Inexpensive, strong, and trouble-free fitting method.
Requires some skill.
Compression yes not no no Makes repairs and replacement easy.
More expensive than solder. Best used on flexible copper.
Flare no no yes yes yes Use only with flexible copper pipes. Usually used as a
gas-line fitting. Requires some skill.
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A
ASTM rating
B
Diameter
C
D
Wall
E
thickness
grade
Grade stamp information includes the pipe diameter, the
wall-thickness grade, and a stamp of approval from the ASTM
(American Society for Testing and Materials). Type M pipe is J
identified by red lettering, Type L by blue lettering. I
H
G F
Bend flexible copper pipe with a coil-spring tubing bender Specialty tools and materials for working with copper
to avoid kinks. Select a bender that matches the outside include: flaring tools (A), emery cloth (B), coil-spring tubing
diameter of the pipe. Slip bender over pipe using a twisting bender (C), pipe joint compound (D), soldering paste (flux) (E),
motion. Bend pipe slowly until it reaches the correct angle, but lead-free solder (F), wire brush (G), flux brush (H), compression
not more than 90º. fitting (I), flare fitting (J).
Fitting socket Fitting socket
Elbow cut
away to
show depth T-fitting
of pipe cut away
to show
depth
of pipe
Length of pipe
Find the length of copper pipe needed by measuring between the bottom of the copper fitting sockets (fittings shown in
cutaway). Mark the length on the pipe with a felt-tipped pen.
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■ Cutting & Soldering Copper
T he best way to cut rigid and flexible copper pipe
is with a tubing cutter. A tubing cutter makes a
smooth, straight cut, an important first step toward
making a watertight joint. Remove any metal burrs on
the cut edges with a reaming tool or round file.
Copper can be cut with a hacksaw. A hacksaw is
useful in tight areas where a tubing cutter will not fit.
Take care to make a smooth, straight cut when cutting
with a hacksaw.
A soldered pipe joint, also called a sweated joint,
is made by heating a copper or brass fitting with a
propane torch until the fitting is just hot enough to
melt metal solder. The heat draws the solder into the
gap between the fitting and pipe to form a watertight
seal. A fitting that is overheated or unevenly heated
will not draw in solder. Copper pipes and fittings must
be clean and dry to form a watertight seal.
Tools & Materials 쑺
Tubing cutter with Cloth
reaming tip Adjustable wrench
(or hacksaw Channel-type pliers
and round file) Copper pipe
Wire brush Copper fittings
Flux brush Emery cloth
Propane torch Soldering paste (flux) Protect wood from the heat of the torch flame while
Spark lighter Sheet metal soldering, using a double layer (two 18" × 18" pieces) of
26-gauge sheet metal. Buy sheet metal at hardware stores or
(or matches) Lead-free solder building supply centers and keep it to use with
Round file Rag all soldering projects.
Soldering Tips 쑺
Torch valve
Use caution when soldering copper. Pipes and Prevent accidents by shutting off propane
fittings become very hot and must be allowed to cool torch immediately after use. Make sure valve is
before handling. closed completely.
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■ How to Cut Rigid & Flexible Copper Pipe
1 2 Cutting
wheel
Roller
Place the tubing cutter over the pipe and tighten the Turn the tubing cutter one rotation so that the cutting
handle so that the pipe rests on both rollers, and the cutting wheel scores a continuous straight line around the pipe.
wheel is on the marked line.
3 4
Reaming
point
Rotate the cutter in the opposite direction, tightening Remove sharp metal burrs from the inside edge of the
the handle slightly after every two rotations, until the cut cut pipe, using the reaming point on the tubing cutter, or a
is complete. round file.
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■ How to Solder Copper Pipes & Fittings
1 2 3
Flux
brush
Emery cloth
Clean the end of each pipe by Clean the inside of each fitting Apply a thin layer of soldering paste
sanding with emery cloth. Ends must by scouring with a wire brush or (flux) to end of each pipe, using a flux
be free of dirt and grease to ensure emery cloth. brush. Soldering paste should cover
that the solder forms a good seal. about 1" of pipe end.
4 5 6
Fitting
Pipe
Apply a thin layer of flux to the Assemble each joint by inserting the Use a clean dry cloth to remove
inside of the fitting. pipe into the fitting so it is tight against the excess flux before soldering the
bottom of the fitting sockets. Twist each assembled fitting.
fitting slightly to spread soldering paste.
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7 8 9
Prepare the wire solder by unwinding Open the gas valve and trigger the Adjust the torch valve until the inner
8" to 10" of wire from spool. Bend the spark lighter to ignite the torch. portion of the flame is 1" to 2" long.
first 2" of the wire to a 90º angle.
10 11
Fitting
Pipe
Pipe
Move the torch flame back and forth and around the pipe Heat the other side of the copper fitting to ensure that
and the fitting to heat the area evenly. heat is distributed evenly. Touch solder to pipe. Solder will melt
when the pipe is at the right temperature.
(continued)
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12 13
Lip of fitting
When solder melts, remove the torch and quickly push 1⁄2" to Allow the joint to cool briefly, then wipe away excess
3
⁄4" of solder into each joint. Capillary action fills the joint with solder with a dry rag. Caution: Pipes will be hot. If joints leak
liquid solder. A correctly soldered joint should show a thin bead after water is turned on, disassemble and resolder.
of solder around the lips of the fitting.
■ How to Solder Brass Valves
1 2
Valves should be fully open during all stages of the To prevent valve damage, quickly heat the pipe and the
soldering process. flanges of the valve, not the valve body. After soldering, cool
the valve by spraying with water.
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■ How to Take Apart Soldered Joints
1 Fitting 2
Pipe
Pipe
Turn off the water and drain the pipes by opening the Use channel-type pliers to separate the pipes from
highest and lowest faucets in the house. Light your torch. Hold the fitting.
the flame tip to the fitting until the solder becomes shiny and
begins to melt.
3 4
Remove old solder by heating the ends of the pipe with Use emery cloth to polish the ends of the pipe down to bare
your torch. Use a dry rag to wipe away melted solder quickly. metal. Never reuse fittings.
Caution: Pipes will be hot.
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Rigid Plastic Pipe
C ut rigid ABS, PVC, or CPVC plastic pipes with
a tubing cutter or with any saw. Cuts must be
straight to ensure watertight joints.
Rigid plastics are joined with plastic fittings and
solvent glue. Use a solvent glue that is made for the
type of plastic pipe you are installing. For example, do
not use ABS solvent on PVC pipe. Some solvent glues,
called “all-purpose” or “universal” solvents, may be
used on all types of plastic pipe.
Solvent glue hardens in about 30 seconds, so
test-fit all plastic pipes and fittings before gluing the
first joint. For best results, the surfaces of plastic pipes
and fittings should be dulled with emery cloth and
liquid primer before they are joined.
Liquid solvent glues and primers are toxic and
flammable. Provide adequate ventilation when fitting
plastics, and store the products away from any source
of heat.
Plastic grip fittings can be used to join rigid or flexible
plastic pipes to copper plumbing pipes (page 274).
Tools & Materials 쑺
Tape measure Plastic pipe
Felt-tipped pen Fittings
Tubing cutter Emery cloth
(or miter box Plastic pipe primer
or hacksaw) Solvent glue
Utility knife Rag
Channel-type pliers Petroleum jelly
Gloves Solvent welding is a chemical bonding process used to
permanently join PVC pipes and fittings.
Primer and solvent glue are specific to the plumbing material being used. Do not use all-purpose or multi-purpose products.
Light to medium body glues are appropriate for DIYers as they allow the longest working time and are easiest to use. The products
work best when fresh, so buy small containers and throw out any unused product after a few months.
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■ How to Cut Rigid Plastic Pipe
Elbow cut away
Waste-T cut away to show depth of fitting
to show depth of pipe
Fitting socket Fitting socket
Length of pipe
Find the length of plastic pipe needed by measuring between the bottoms of the fitting sockets (fittings shown in cutaway).
Mark the length on the pipe with a felt-tipped pen.
Plastic tubing cutters do a fast, The best cutting tool for plastic A ratcheting plastic-pipe cutter can
neat job of cutting. You’ll probably pipe is a power miter saw with a cut smaller diameter PVC and CPVC
have to go to a professional plumbing fine tooth woodworking blade or a pipe in a real hurry. If you are plumbing
supply store to find one, however. They plastic-specific blade. a whole house you may want to
are not interchangeable with metal consider investing in one. They also are
tubing cutters. sold only at plumbing supply stores.
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■ How to Solvent-Glue Rigid Plastic Pipe
1 2
Fitting sockets
Remove rough burrs on cut ends of plastic pipe, using a Test-fit all pipes and fittings. Pipes should fit tightly against
utility knife. the bottom of the fitting sockets.
3 4
Mark the depth of the fitting sockets on the pipes. Take Apply a light coat of plastic pipe primer to the ends of
pipes apart. Clean the ends of the pipes and fitting sockets the pipes and to the insides of the fitting sockets. Primer dulls
with emery cloth. glossy surfaces and ensures a good seal.
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5 6
Solvent-glue each joint by applying a thick coat of solvent Quickly position the pipe and fitting so that the alignment
glue to the end of the pipe. Apply a thin coat of solvent glue to marks are offset by about 2". Force the pipe into the fitting
the inside surface of the fitting socket. Work quickly: solvent until the end fits flush against the bottom of the socket.
glue hardens in about 30 seconds.
7 8
Spread solvent by twisting the pipe until the marks are Wipe away excess solvent glue with a rag. Do not disturb
aligned. Hold the pipe in place for about 20 seconds to prevent the joint for 30 minutes after gluing.
the joint from slipping.
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Working with Outdoor Flexible Plastic Pipe
F lexible PE (polyethylene) pipe is used for
underground cold water lines. Very inexpensive,
PE pipe is commonly used for automatic lawn
sprinkler systems and for extending cold water supply
to utility sinks in detached garages and sheds.
Unlike other plastics, PE is not solvent-glued,
but is joined using “barbed” rigid PVC fittings and
stainless steel hose clamps. In cold climates, outdoor
plumbing lines should be shut off and drained
for winter.
Tools & Materials 쑺
Tape measure Flexible pipe
Tubing cutter Fittings
Screwdriver Hose clamps
or wrench Utility knife
Pipe joint compound Connect lengths of PE pipe with a barbed PVC fitting.
Secure the connection with stainless steel hose clamps.
Female- Barbed
T-fitting threaded PVC male-
adapter threaded
adapter
Valve drain
Hose clamp PE pipe
Connect PE pipe to an existing cold water supply pipe by splicing in a T-fitting to the copper pipe and attaching a drain-and-waste
shutoff valve and a female-threaded adapter. Screw a barbed PVC male-threaded adapter into the copper fitting, then attach the
PE pipe. The drain-and-waste valve allows you to blow the PE line free of water when winterizing the system.
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■ How to Cut & Join Outdoor Flexible Plastic Pipe
1 2
Cut flexible PE pipe with a plastic tubing cutter, or use Fit stainless steel hose clamps over the ends of the flexible
a miter box or sharp knife. Remove any rough burrs with a pipes being joined.
utility knife.
3
Option: To ensure a tighter fit, dab some pipe joint compound Slide the band clamps over the joint ends. Hand tighten
onto the barbs so they are easier to slide into the flexible each clamp with a screwdriver or wrench.
plastic pipe. Apply pipe joint compound to the barbed ends
of the T-fitting. Work each end of PE pipe over the barbed
portions of the fitting and into position.
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Cross-Linked Polyethylene (PEX)
C ross-linked polyethylene (PEX) is growing quickly
in acceptance as a supply pipe for residential
plumbing. It’s not hard to understand why. Developed
For standard residential installations, PEX can be
joined with very simple fittings and tools. Unions are
generally made with a crimping tool and a crimping
in the 1960s but relatively new to the United States, ring. You simply insert the ends of the pipe you’re
this supply pipe combines the ease of use of flexible joining into the ring, then clamp down on the ring
tubing with the durability of rigid pipe. It can with the crimping tool. PEX pipe, tools, and fittings
withstand a wide temperature range (from subfreezing can be purchased from most wholesale plumbing
to 180° F); it is inexpensive; and it’s quieter than rigid suppliers and at many home centers. Coils of PEX are
supply pipe. sold in several diameters from 1⁄4" to 1". PEX tubing
PEX is flexible plastic (polyethylene, or PE) and fittings from different manufacturers are not
tubing that’s reinforced by a chemical reaction that interchangeable. Any warranty coverage will be voided
creates long fibers to increase the strength of the if products are mixed.
material. It has been allowed by code in Europe and
the southern United States for many years, but has
won approval for residential supply use in most major Tools & Materials 쑺
plumbing codes only recently. It’s frequently used in Tape measure Manifolds
manufactured housing and recreational vehicles and Felt-tipped pen Protector plates
in radiant heating systems. Because it is so flexible, Full-circle PEX fittings
PEX can easily be bent to follow corners and make crimping tool Utility knife
other changes in direction. From the water main Go/no-go gauge Plastic hangers
and heater, it is connected into manifold fittings that Tubing cutter Crimp ring
redistribute the water in much the same manner as a PEX pipe
lawn irrigation system.
PEX pipe is a relatively new water supply
material that’s growing in popularity in part
because it can be installed with simple
mechanical connections.
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■ PEX Tools & Materials
C
A
B
Specialty tools for installing PEX are available wherever PEX is sold. The basic set includes a full-circle crimping tool (A), a tubing
cutter (B), and a go/no-go gauge (C) to test connections after they’ve been crimped.
A B C
1"
1
⁄ 4" 1
⁄ 2" 3
⁄ 4"
PEX is connected to other water supply materials with Generally, you should use the same diameter PEX as is
transition fittings, including CPVC-to-PEX (A), copper-to-PEX (B), specified for rigid supply tubing, but in some “home run”
and iron-to-PEX (C). installations (see next page) you can use 3⁄8" PEX where 1⁄2"
rigid copper would normally be used.
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■ PEX Installation
C heck with your local plumbing inspector to verify
that PEX is allowed in your municipality. PEX has
been endorsed by all major plumbing codes in North
• Do not attach PEX directly to a water heater.
Make connections at the heater with metallic
tubing (either flexible water-heater connector
America, but your municipality may still be using an tubing or rigid copper) at least 18" long; then join
older set of codes. Follow the guidelines below when it to PEX with a transition fitting.
installing PEX: • Do not install PEX in areas where there is a possibility
of mechanical damage or puncture. Always fasten
• Do not install PEX in above-ground exterior protective plates to wall studs that house PEX.
applications because it degrades quickly from • Always leave some slack in installed PEX lines to
UV exposure. allow for contraction and in case you need to cut
• Do not use PEX for gas lines. off a bad crimp.
• Do not use plastic solvents or petroleum-based • Use the same minimum branch and distribution
products with PEX (they can dissolve supply-pipe dimensions for PEX that you’d use
the plastic). for copper or CPVC, according to your local
• Keep PEX at least 12" away from recessed light plumbing codes.
fixtures and other potential sources of high heat.
18"
Do not connect PEX directly to a water heater. Use metal Bundle PEX together with plastic ties when running pipe
connector tubes. Solder the connector tubes to the water through wall cavities. PEX can contract slightly, so leave some
heater before attaching PEX. Never solder metal tubing that is slack in the lines.
already connected to PEX lines.
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■ Buying PEX
Color coding is a practice many PEX manufacturers have PEX combines the flexibility of plastic tubing with the
embraced to make identification easier. Because the material is durability of rigid supply pipe. It is sold in coils of common
identical except for the color, you can buy only one color (red is supply-pipe diameters.
more common) and use it for both hot and cold supply lines.
The PEX Advantage 쑺
PEX supply tubing offers a number of advantages over • Quiet. PEX will not rattle or clang from trapped air or
traditional rigid supply tubing: kinetic energy.
• Good for retrofit jobs. PEX is easier to snake through
• Easy to install. PEX does not require coupling joints walls than rigid supply tubing and is compatible with
for long runs or elbows and sweeps for turns. The copper, PVC, or iron supply systems if the correct
mechanical connections do not require solvents or transition fittings are used. If your metal supply tubes
soldering. are used to ground your electrical system, you’ll
• Easy to transport. Large coils are lightweight and much need to provide a jumper if PEX is installed in midrun.
easier to move around than 10-ft. lengths of pipe. Check with a plumber or electrician.
• Good insulation. The PEX material has better thermal • Freeze resistance. PEX retains some flexibility in
properties than copper for lessened heat loss. sub-freezing conditions and is less likely to be
damaged than rigid pipe, but it is not frostproof.
General Codes for PEX 쑺
PEX has been endorsed for residential use by all major • Maximum length of individual distribution lines is 60 ft.
building codes, although some municipal codes may be • PEX is designed to withstand 210° F water for up to
more restrictive. The specific design standards may also 48 hours. For ongoing use, most PEX is rated for 180
vary, but here are some general rules: degree water up to 100 pounds per square inch of
pressure.
• For PEX, maximum horizontal support spacing is 32" • Directional changes of more than 90 degrees require
and maximum vertical support spacing is 10 ft. a guide fitting (see page 307).
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■ System Designs
Trunk-and-branch systems are configured in much the Home run systems rely on one or two central manifolds to
same way as a traditional rigid copper or PVC supply systems. distribute the hot and cold water very efficiently. Eliminating
A main supply line (the trunk line) carries water to all of the the branch fittings allows you to use thinner supply pipe in
outlets via smaller branch lines that tie into the trunk and some situations.
serve a few outlets in a common location.
Choosing a PEX system 쑺
• For maximum single-fixture water pressure:
Trunk and branch
• For economy of materials: Trunk and branch or
remote manifold
• For minimal wait times for hot water (single
fixture): Home run
• For minimal wait times for hot water (multiple
fixtures used at same approximate time): Trunk
and branch or remote manifold
• For ease of shutoff control: Home run
• For lowest number of fittings and joints:
Home run
Remote manifold systems are a hybrid between traditional
trunk-and-branch systems and home run systems. Instead
of relying on just one or two manifolds, they employ several
smaller manifolds downline from a larger manifold. Each smaller
manifold services a group of fixtures, as in a bathroom or kitchen.
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■ How to Make PEX Connections
1 2
Cut the pipe to length, making sure to leave enough extra Inspect the cut end to make sure it is clean and smooth. If
material so the line will have a small amount of slack once the necessary, deburr the end of the pipe with a sharp utility knife.
connections are made. A straight, clean cut is very important. Slip a crimp ring over the end.
For best results, use a tubing cutter.
3 4 5
Insert the barbed end of the fitting Align the jaws of a full-circle crimping Test the connection to make sure it
into the pipe until it is snug against the tool over the crimp ring and squeeze is mechanically acceptable, using a go/
cut edges.Position the crimp ring so it the handles together to apply strong, no-go gauge. If the ring does not fit into
is 1⁄8" to 1⁄4" from the end of the pipe, even pressure to the ring. the gauge properly, cut the pipe near
covering the barbed end of the fitting. the connection and try again.
Pinch the fitting to hold it in place.
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■ How to Plumb a PEX Water-Supply System
1 2
Install copper manifolds (one for hot and one for cold) in an A manifold may be attached vertically or horizontally,
accessible location central to the fixtures. The manifold should but it must be anchored with correctly sized hangers screwed
have one outlet for each supply line it will support (fixtures to the framing members.
that require hot and cold supply will need a separate outlet for
each). Run supply lines from the water heater and water main
to the copper manifolds. Connect the supply pipes to
the manifolds with crimp fittings.
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3 4
Starting at each fixture (and leaving at least 12" of extra Support the pipe with a plastic hanger near every floor or
pipe exposed), run appropriately sized PEX through holes in ceiling and midway up vertical runs. Also use hangers to guide
the framing to the manifolds. Pipes may be bundled together pipe near the beginnings and ends of curves and near fittings.
loosely with plastic ties. Protect the line with a nailing plate Use a plastic guide for sharp curves (inset). Do not bend PEX
at each stud location. Be sure to leave some slack in the so sharply that it kinks.
supply lines.
5
Cut each branch supply line to length (leave some extra in case you need to recrimp). Install shutoff valves for each outlet
(most manifolds come with preattached valves). Connect the PEX branch supply lines to the shutoff valves. Label each pipe. Use
a short length of PEX and a plug to seal any unused outlets (inset).
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Galvanized Iron
G alvanized iron pipe often is found in older homes,
where it is used for water supply and small drain
lines. It can be identified by the zinc coating that gives
to the rest of your house. Before you begin a repair, have
on hand nipples and end caps that match your pipes.
Taking apart a system of galvanized iron pipes
it a silver color and by the threaded fittings used to and fittings is time-consuming. Disassembly must
connect pipes. start at the end of a pipe run, and each piece must
Galvanized iron pipes and fittings will corrode be unscrewed before the next piece can be removed.
with age and eventually must be replaced. Low water Reaching the middle of a run to replace a section
pressure may be a sign that the insides of galvanized of pipe can be a long and tedious job. Instead, use
pipes have a buildup of rust. Blockage usually occurs a special three-piece fitting called a union. A union
in elbow fittings. Never try to clean the insides of makes it possible to remove a section of pipe or a
galvanized iron pipes. Instead, remove and replace fitting without having to take the entire system apart.
them as soon as possible. Note: Galvanized iron is sometimes confused with
Galvanized iron pipe and fittings are available “black iron.” Both types have similar sizes and fittings.
at hardware stores and home improvement centers. Black iron is used only for gas lines.
Always specify the interior diameter (I.D.) when pur-
chasing galvanized pipes and fittings. Pre-threaded
pipes, called nipples, are available in lengths from 1" Tools & Materials 쑺
to 1 ft. If you need a longer length, have the store cut
and thread the pipe to your dimensions. Tape measure Nipples
Old galvanized iron can be difficult to repair. Reciprocating saw End caps
Fittings are often rusted in place, and what seems like with metal-cutting Union fitting
a small job may become a large project. For example, blade or a hacksaw Pipe joint compound
cutting apart a section of pipe to replace a leaky fitting Pipe wrenches Replacement fittings
may reveal that adjacent pipes are also in need of Propane torch (if needed)
replacement. If your job takes an unexpected amount of Wire brush
time, you can cap off any open lines and restore water
1
⁄ 2" 1
⁄ 2"
Galvanized pipe was installed in homes for both gas and Measure the old pipe. Include 1⁄2" at each end for
water supply pipes until the middle part of the last century. the threaded portion of the pipe inside fitting. Bring
Although it is not used for new installations today, it can still overall measurement to the store when shopping for
be repaired easily using simple tools and techniques. replacement parts.
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■ How to Remove & Replace a Galvanized Iron Pipe
1 2
Cut through galvanized iron pipe with a reciprocating saw Hold the fitting with one pipe wrench, and use another
and a metal-cutting blade or with a hacksaw. wrench to remove the old pipe. The jaws of the wrenches
should face opposite directions. Always move the wrench
handle toward the jaw opening.
3 4
Remove any corroded fittings using two pipe wrenches. Heat stubborn fittings with a torch to make them easier to
With the jaws facing in opposite directions, use one wrench remove. Apply flame for 5 to 10 seconds. Protect wood and
to turn fitting and the other to hold the pipe. Clean the pipe other flammable materials from heat, using a double layer of
threads with a wire brush. sheet metal.
(continued)
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5
Hubbed
union nut
Old pipe
Ring nut Union Nipples
Union
fitting and
nipples,
assembled
Threaded
union nut
Replace a section of galvanized iron pipe with a union fitting and two threaded pipes (nipples). When assembled, the union
and nipples must equal the length of the pipe that is being replaced.
6 7
Pipe joint
compount
Apply a bead of pipe joint compound around the threaded Screw new fittings onto pipe threads. Tighten fittings with
ends of all pipes and nipples. Spread the compound evenly two pipe wrenches, leaving them about one-eighth turn out of
over the threads with your fingertip. alignment to allow assembly of the union.
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8 9 10
Second nipple
First nipple
Hubbed
union nut
Ring nut
Screw the first nipple into the fitting, Slide a ring nut onto the installed Screw the second nipple onto the
and tighten with a pipe wrench. nipple, then screw the hubbed union other fitting. Tighten with a pipe wrench.
nut onto the nipple and tighten with a
pipe wrench.
11 12
Threaded
union nut
Ring nut
Threaded
union nut
Screw the threaded union nut onto the second nipple. Complete the connection by screwing the ring nut onto the
Tighten with a pipe wrench. Turn pipes into alignment, so that the threaded union nut. Tighten the ring nut with pipe wrenches.
lip of the hubbed union nut fits inside the threaded union nut.
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Cast Iron
C ast iron pipe often is found in older homes, where
it is used for large DWV pipes, especially the
main stack and sewer service lines. It can be identified
Snap cutters are the traditional tool of choice
for cutting cast iron (see page 307), but today’s
variable-speed reciprocating saws do the job easily
by its dark color, rough surface, and large size. Cast- and safely. Use a long metal-cutting blade and set the
iron pipes in home drains usually are 3" or more saw at low speed. Wear eye and ear protection when
in diameter. cutting cast iron pipe.
Cast-iron pipes may rust through or hubbed
fittings (below) may leak. If your house is more than
30 years old, you may find it necessary to replace a
cast-iron pipe or joint.
Cast iron is heavy and difficult to cut and fit. For
this reason, leaky cast-iron pipe usually is replaced
with PVC of the same diameter. PVC can be joined to
cast iron easily, using a banded coupling (below).
Tools & Materials 쑺
Tape measure Riser clamps or
Chalk strap hangers
Adjustable wrenches Two wood blocks
Reciprocating 21⁄2" wallboard screws
saw (or rented Banded couplings
snap cutter) Plastic
Ratchet wrench replacement pipe Cast-iron pipe was used almost exclusively for drain systems
Screwdriver until the introduction of heavy-duty PVC drain pipes. It is tough
to work with and in most cases replacing it makes sense.
Neoprene
Lead sleeve
Oakum Banded Stainless
Hubbed coupling steel band
fitting
Hub Screw
clamp
Hubbed fittings (shown cutaway, left) were used to join cast- Banded couplings may be used to replace leaky cast
iron pipe. Hubbed pipe has a straight end and a flared end. The iron with a PVC or ABS plastic pipe. The new plastic pipe is
straight end of one pipe fits inside the hub of the next pipe. In connected to the remaining cast-iron pipe with a banded
the old days, joints were sealed with packing material (oakum) coupling. Banded coupling has a neoprene sleeve that seals
and lead. Repair leaky joints by cutting out the entire hubbed the joint. Pipes are held together with stainless steel bands
fitting and replacing with plastic pipe. and screw clamps.
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■ Cutting Cast-Iron Pipe
Strap hangers
Riser
clamp
Before cutting a horizontal run of cast-iron drain pipe, Before cutting a vertical run of cast-iron pipe, make sure it
make sure it is supported with strap hangers every 5 ft. and at is supported at every floor level with a riser clamp. Never cut
every joint connection. through pipe that is not supported.
■ How to Remove & Replace a Section of Cast-Iron Pipe
1 2 3
Use chalk to mark cut lines on the Support lower section of pipe by Support the upper section of pipe
cast-iron pipe. If replacing a leaky hub, installing a riser clamp flush against by installing a riser clamp 6" above
mark at least 6” on each side of hub. the bottom plate or floor. the pipe section to be replaced. Attach
wood blocks to the studs with 21⁄2" deck
screws, so that the riser clamp rests on
tops of blocks.
(continued)
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4 5 6
Wrap the chain of the snap cutter Tighten the chain and snap Repeat cutting at the other chalkline.
around the pipe, so that the cutting the p i p e a c c o r d i n g t o t h e t o o l Remove cut section of pipe.
wheels are against the chalkline. m a n u f a c t u r e r ’s d i r e c t i o n s.
7 8 9
Screw
clamp
Banded
clamp
Neoprene
sleeve
Cut a length of PVC plastic pipe to Slip a banded coupling and a Make sure the cast-iron pipe is
be 1⁄2" shorter than the section of cast- neoprene sleeve onto each end of seated snugly against the rubber
iron pipe that has been cut away. the cast-iron pipe. separator ring molded into the interior
of the sleeve.
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10 11
Fold back the end of each neoprene sleeve, until the Position the new plastic pipe so it is aligned with the cast-
molded separator ring on the inside of the sleeve is visible. iron pipes.
12 13 14
Roll the ends of the neoprene sleeves Slide stainless steel bands and Tighten the screw clamps with a
over the ends of the new plastic pipe. clamps over the neoprene sleeves. ratchet wrench or screwdriver.
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Pipe Fittings
U se the photos on these pages to identify the
plumbing fittings specified in the project how-to
directions found in this book. Each fitting shown is
available in a variety of sizes to match your needs. Vent
Always use fittings made from the same material as elbow Vent T (must
connect to
your pipes. waste-vent
Pipe fittings come in a variety of shapes to serve stack at a
point at least
different functions within the plumbing system. DWV 6" above
fittings include: the highest
fixture)
Vents: In general, the fittings used to connect
Vent pipes
vent pipes have very sharp bends with no sweep.
Vent fittings include the vent T and vent 90º elbow.
Standard drain pipe fittings can also be used to join
vent pipes.
Waste
Horizontal-to-vertical drains: To change T-fitting
directions in a drain pipe from the horizontal to the
P-trap
vertical, use fittings with a noticeable sweep. Standard
fittings for this use include waste T-fittings and 90º
elbows. Y-fittings and 45º and 221⁄2º elbows can also be
used for this purpose.
Vertical-to-horizontal drains: To change Drain pipes Closet
directions from the vertical to the horizontal, use bend
fittings with a very pronounced, gradual sweep. Low-heel
Common fittings for this purpose include the vent 90°
long-radius T-Y-fitting and some Y-fittings with
45º elbows. Cleanout
Horizontal offsets in drains: Y-fittings, Y-fitting
Y-fitting with 45°
45º elbows, 221⁄2º elbows, and long sweep 90º elbows with 45° elbow
are used when changing directions in horizontal elbow
pipe runs. Whenever possible, horizontal drain pipes (combo)
Main
should use gradual, sweeping bends rather than waste
stack
sharp turns.
Cleanout
Y-fitting
Basic DWV tree shows the correct orientation of drain and
vent fittings in a plumbing system. Bends in the vent pipes
can be very sharp, but drain pipes should use fittings with a
noticeable sweep. Fittings used to direct falling waste water
from a vertical to a horizontal pipe should have bends that are
even more sweeping. Your local plumbing code may require
that you install cleanout fittings where vertical drain pipes
meet horizontal runs.
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A B C D E F G H I J
A B C D E F G H I J
K L M N O P Q
Water supply fittings are available for copper (top), CPVC plastic (center), and PEX (bottom). Fittings for CPVC and copper are
available in many shapes, including: unions (A), reducers (B), 90º elbows (C), reducing elbows (D), 45º elbows (E), T-fittings (F),
reducing T-fittings (G), drop-ear elbows (H), threaded adapters (I), and caps (J). Common PEX fittings (bottom) include unions (K),
PEX-to-copper unions (L), 90º elbows (M), T-fittings (N), plugs (O), drop-ear elbows (P), and threaded adapters (Q).
C
A B B
A
E
C
D
F
G D
H
F
E
I
Water supply valves are available in brass or plastic and Support materials for pipes include: plastic pipe hangers (A),
in a variety of styles, including: drain-and-waste valves (A), copper J-hooks (B), copper wire hangers (C), riser clamp (D),
gate valve (B), full-bore ball valves (C), fixture shutoff valve (D), plastic pipe straps (E), copper pipe straps (F), flexible copper,
vacuum breaker (E), and hose bib (F). steel, and plastic pipe strapping (G, H, I). Do not mix metal types
when supporting metal pipes; use copper support materials for
copper pipe, and steel for steel and cast-iron pipes.
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T-fittings Waste-T Elbows
Low-heel
vent 90°
Vent elbow
90° elbow
Long
sweep
90° elbow
Vent T
Closet
bend
Reducing
Street elbow elbow
Waste- T
with Waste cross
additional
side inlet 22 1⁄ 2°elbow 45° elbow
Y-fittings Specialty Fittings
Test caps Cap Cleanout
plug
Y with 45°
elbow
(combo) Y with
cleanout
plug
P-trap
with slip
fittings
P-trap with
solvent-glued
fittings
Banded clamp
Reducing
Y-fitting Y-fitting
Coupling
Reducer
Reducing
bushing
Fittings for DWV pipes are available in many configurations, with openings ranging from 11⁄4" to 4" in diameter. When
planning your project, buy plentiful numbers of DWV and water supply fittings from a reputable retailer with a good return policy. It
is much more efficient to return leftover materials after you complete your project than it is to interrupt your work each time you
need to shop for a missing fitting.
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■ How to Use Transition Fittings
3” no-hub
neoprene
coupling
1-1/2”-to-1-1/4”
reducing transition
Connect plastic to cast iron with Make transitions in DWV pipes with rubber couplings. The two products shown
banded couplings. Rubber sleeves cover here (Mission-brand fittings, see Resources page 329) can be used to connect pipes
ends of pipes and ensure a watertight of different materials, as well as same-material pipes that need a transition.
joint.
Dielectric Plastic
union pipe
Spacer Hot water
transition
fitting
Soldered Metal water Teflon
joint heater nipple tape
Connect copper to galvanized iron with a dielectric union. Connect metal hot water pipe to plastic with a hot water
A dielectric union is threaded onto iron pipe and is soldered transition fitting that prevents leaks caused by different
to copper pipe. A dielectric union has a plastic spacer that expansion rates of materials. Metal pipe threads are wrapped
prevents corrosion caused by an electrochemical reaction with Teflon tape. Plastic pipe is solvent-glued to fitting.
between dissimilar metals.
Fixture
tailpiece
Coupling
Supply nut
Water tube
pipe
Supply
tube
Shutoff valve
Connect a water pipe to any fixture Connect any supply tube to a Specialty supply fittings can be used
supply tube, using a shutoff valve. fixture tailpiece with a coupling nut. to supply portable water fixtures such
The coupling nut compresses the as icemakers and hot water dispensers.
bell-shaped end of the supply tube The John-Guest Speed-Fit fitting shown
against the fixture tailpiece. here (see Resources, page 330) is
designed to connect to clear tubing or
the manufacturer's proprietary plastic
supply tubing.
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Shutoff Valves
W orn-out shutoff valves or supply tubes can cause
water to leak underneath a sink or other fixture.
First, try tightening the fittings with an adjustable
Tools & Materials 쑺
wrench. If this does not fix the leak, replace the Hacksaw Felt-tipped pen
shutoff valves and supply tubes. Tubing cutter Shutoff valves
Shutoff valves are available in several fitting types. Adjustable wrench Supply tubes
For copper pipes, valves with compression-type fittings Tubing bender Pipe joint compound
(pages 212 to 213) are easiest to install. For plastic
pipes, use grip-type valves. For galvanized iron pipes,
use valves with female threads.
Older plumbing systems often were installed
without fixture shutoff valves. When repairing or
replacing plumbing fixtures, you may want to install
shutoff valves if they are not already present.
Chromed
brass PB
plastic
Braided
CPVC steel
plastic
Chromed
copper
Vinyl
mesh
Shutoff valves allow you to shut off the water to an individual Supply tubes are used to connect water pipes to faucets,
fixture so it can be repaired. They can be made from durable toilets, and other fixtures. They come in 12", 20", and 30"
chromed brass or lightweight plastic. Shutoff valves come in lengths. PB plastic and chromed copper tubes are inexpensive.
1
⁄2" and 3⁄4" diameters to match common water pipe sizes. Braided steel and vinyl mesh supply tubes are easy to install.
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■ How to Install Shutoff Valves & Supply Tubes
1 2 3
Compression
Coupling ring
nut
Shutoff
valve
Soldered
joints
Compression Compression
nut ring
Compression
Supply
nut
pipes
Turn off water at the main shutoff Slide a compression nut and a Apply pipe joint compound to the threads
valve. Remove old supply pipes. If compression ring over the copper water of the shutoff valve or compression nut.
pipes are soldered copper, cut them off pipe. Threads of the nut should face the Screw the compression nut onto the shutoff
just below the soldered joint, using a end of the pipe. valve and tighten with an adjustable wrench.
hacksaw or tubing cutter. Make sure the
cuts are straight. Unscrew the coupling
nuts and discard the old pipes.
4 5 Fixture
6
tailpiece
Coupling
nut
Sprayer
hose
Compression
nut Supply
tube
Shutoff
valve
Bend chromed copper supply tube Position the supply tube between Attach the bell-shaped end of the
to reach from the tailpiece of the fixture fixture tailpiece and the shutoff valve, supply tube to the fixture tailpiece
to the shutoff valve, using a tubing and mark the tube to length. Cut with a coupling nut, then attach the
bender. Bend the tube slowly to avoid the supply tube with a tubing cutter other end to the shutoff valve with
kinking the metal. (page 270). compression ring and nut. Tighten all
fittings with an adjustable wrench.
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Valves & Hose Bibs
V alves make it possible to shut off water at any
point in the supply system. If a pipe breaks
or a plumbing fixture begins to leak, you can shut Ball
Shutoff
valve
off water to the damaged area so that it can be valve
repaired. A hose bib is a faucet with a threaded
spout, often used to connect rubber utility or
appliance hoses. Gate
valve
Valves and hose bibs leak when washers or seals
wear out. Replacement parts can be found in the
same universal washer kits used to repair compression
Globe valve
faucets. Coat replacement washers with heatproof
grease to keep them soft and prevent cracking.
Hose bib
Remember to turn off the water before beginning
work.
With the exception of chromed shutoff valves that are
installed at individual fixtures (see previous pages), valves and
hose bibs are heavy-duty fittings, usually with a brass body
Tools & Materials 쑺 they are installed in-line to regulate water flow. Gate valves and
globe valves are similar and are operated with a wheel-type
handle that spins. Ball valves are operated with a handle much
Screwdriver Universal washer kit like a gas pipe stopcock and are considered by pros to be
Adjustable wrench Heatproof grease the most reliable. Hose bibs are spigots with a threaded end
designed to accept a female hose coupling.
■ How to Fix a Leaky Hose Bib
Handle screw
1 2 Handle
Packing nut
Packing
Packing washer
nut
Packing
Spindle ring
Stem
washer
Stem screw
Remove the handle screw, and lift off the handle. Unscrew Unscrew the spindle from the valve body. Remove the
the packing nut with an adjustable wrench. stem screw and replace the stem washer. Replace the packing
washer, and reassemble the valve.
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Common Types of Valves 쑺
Packing nut
Packing Packing
washer nut
Packing
washer
Spindle
Spindle
Curved Stem Stem
Gate chamber screw
washer
Gate valve has a movable brass wedge, or “gate,” that Globe valve has a curved chamber. Repair leaks
screws up and down to control water flow. Gate valves around the handle by replacing the packing washer. If
may develop leaks around the handle. Repair leaks by valve does not fully stop water flow when closed, replace
replacing the packing washer or packing string found the stem washer.
underneath the packing nut.
Packing nut
O-rings
Valve
Packing Handle
Packing
washer nut
Aperture
Spindle
Packing ring
Ball
Stem washer
Shutoff valve controls water supply to one or more Ball valve contains a metal ball with an aperture (or
fixtures. A shutoff valve has a plastic spindle with a controlled hole) in the center. The ball is controlled by a
packing washer and a snap-on stem washer. Repair leaks handle. When the handle is turned the hole is positioned
around the handle by replacing the packing washer. If a parallel to the valve (open) or perpendicular (closed).
valve does not fully stop water flow when closed, replace
the stem washer. Shutoff valves with multiple outlets are
available to supply several fixtures from a single supply.
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Compression Fittings
C ompression fittings are used to make connections
that may need to be taken apart. Compression
fittings are easy to disconnect and are often used to
Compression nut Compression ring
install supply tubes and fixture shutoff valves. Use
compression fittings in places where it is unsafe or
difficult to solder, such as in crawl spaces.
Compression fittings are used most often with
flexible copper pipe. Flexible copper is soft enough to
allow the compression ring to seat snugly, creating a
watertight seal. Compression fittings also may be used
to make connections with Type M rigid copper pipe.
Tools & Materials 쑺
Compression nut Copper
Compression ring pipe
Felt-tipped pen Brass compression
Tubing cutter fittings Compression fitting (shown in cutaway) shows how threaded
or hacksaw Pipe joint compound compression nut forms seal by forcing the compression ring
Adjustable wrenches or Teflon tape against the copper pipe. Compression ring is covered with pipe
joint compound before assembling to ensure a perfect seal.
■ How to Attach Supply Tubes to Fixture
Shutoff Valves with Compression Fittings
1 2 3
Compression
nut
Compression
ring
Flexible
copper
supply tube
Bend flexible copper supply tube Slide the compression nut and then Apply a small amount of pipe
and mark to length. Include 1⁄2" for portion the compression ring over the end of joint compound to the threads. This
that will fit inside valve. Cut tube. the pipe. The threads of the nut should lubricates the threads.
face the valve.
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4 5 6
Socket
Insert the end of the pipe into the Slide the compression ring and nut Tighten the compression nut
fitting so it fits flush against the bottom against the threads of the valve. Hand with adjustable wrenches. Do not
of the fitting socket. tighten the nut onto the valve. overtighten. Turn on the water and
watch for leaks. If the fitting leaks,
tighten the nut gently.
■ How to Join Two Copper Pipes with
a Compression Union Fitting
1 Compression
nut 2 3
Compression
ring
Union
Slide compression nuts and rings Apply a layer of pipe joint compound Hold the center of the union fitting
over the ends of pipes. Place a threaded or Teflon tape to the union’s threads, with an adjustable wrench and use
union between the pipes. then screw compression nuts onto another wrench to tighten each
the union. compression nut one complete turn.
Turn on the water. If the fitting leaks,
tighten the nuts gently.
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Gas Pipe Fittings
F ew word combinations strike more fear into the
hearts of liability lawyers than “do-it-yourself”
and “gas.” Of course there is good reason for this, as
forms: natural gas, which is delivered via a pipeline,
and liquefied petroleum gas (LP gas), which is
stored in a refillable tank or "bottle" at the property.
working with gas pipe and making gas hookups carry Appliances cannot use these gases interchangeably,
extremely high potential for catastrophe if errors are though conversion kits are available. Make sure your
made. And that is why many municipalities insist that appliance matches the type of gas you have available.
only licensed professionals may install or service gas
lines and appliances. If your municipality is one of
these, follow the law and keep your hands off the gas.
It simply is not worth the risk of doing it yourself. Tools & Materials 쑺
If your area allows ambitious homeowners to work
on their own gas lines and appliances, you should Adjustable wrench
still take some extra time considering whether you Gas pipe thread
really ought to call a professional. If you do decide to compound
proceed, follow all safety precautions to the letter and Leak detector
be very, very careful. solution
Technically, working with gas pipe is not too Teflon tape
different from working with water supply tubing
or DWV pipe. For home fuel, gas comes in two
A B C D
Black steel pipe (A) is the traditional material for gas piping and is acceptable everywhere. Corrugated stainless steel tubing is
coated with PVC (B). Because it is flexible, fewer connections need to be made and the possibility for leaks is diminished. Some
areas may not allow this piping. Flexible pipe (C) is often used for connecting appliances to supply lines. Soft copper (D) may be
used for gas in some areas, but is not allowable for gas lines in other jurisdictions.
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■ Parts of a Gas Delivery System
Regulator
Compression 3 ⁄ 4 " flared
elbow coupling
Flare 1 ⁄ 2 " flared
Leak stop cock Pipe
coupling thread
detector
compound
(gas)
Shutoff
Meter
Threaded Brass Brass
stop cock nipple coupling
Gas valves and fittings may look similar to those used A natural gas meter has a pressure regulator and shut off
for water, but use only gas-rated valves and fittings for gas valve. The shut off valve is activated with a special gas shut off
installations. Valves feature quarter-turn on to off and are wrench, or an adjustable wrench.
available with threaded or flare connections. Fittings are
available in many sizes measured by outside diameter (O.D.).
Fittings can be either are threaded or flared and male or
female. Thread compound and leak detector solution are
important parts of the gas plumbing tool kit.
Pipe size requirements for gas line installation are Apply leak detector solution to each joint after you’ve
determined by adding up the input BTUs necessary for each restored the gas flow to make sure there are no leaks. Leaking
appliance, plus the distance from the supply line to the gas will cause bubbles in the solution. Do not use ordinary
appliance. Input BTU requirements are listed on identification soap—it can lead to corrosion of the metal around the seal.
tags that are required to be attached to all gas appliances.
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■ Working with Black Pipe
W orking with black pipe is virtually the same as
working with galvanized pipe (See pages 296 to
299). The pipe used must be new or, if reused, used
After completing an installation and turning the
gas on, each connection must be checked for leaks.
Use leak detecting solution sprayed around each
previously only for gas fittings. joint. If gas is leaking, the solution will bubble and
Black pipe threads are cut in a tapered manner foam. Do not use detergent as a leak detector—it
referred to as National Pipe Taper (NPT). The contains corrosive chemicals that may degrade the
diameter of the male-threaded pipe is smaller at the connection. Tightening the leaky joint will mean
end. This is why it is easier to thread a fitting on that all subsequent joints need to be tightened,
initially, but gets more difficult with each turn. MPT not loosened, to accommodate the new alignment.
and FPT refer to male and female threads cut to Loosening will potentially create more leaks.
this standard. Black pipe is available in a wide variety of
All threads should have pipe joint compound threaded lengths. Shorter lengths are referred to as
applied before being fitted and all joints must be nipples. If you can’t make the standard lengths work
tested with leak detector solution once the installation for your application, most pipe retailers have thread
is complete. Pipe compounds may be gray, thick paste, cutting machines and will cut and thread pipe to
or white PTFE (Teflon) paste. You may also use yellow length, usually for a fee.
PTFE tape. White PTFE tape that’s commonly used Black pipe fittings include Ts, reducers, elbows
for waterlines and hookups is not acceptable for gas with two female-threaded ends, street elbows with a
line use. male- and a female-threaded end, couplings, and caps.
Shut off the gas by turning the handle of the nearest in-line Apply an approved gas pipe thread compound liberally
stopcock so it is perpendicular to the gas line. all over the threads.
Hand tighten the fittings on to the threaded pipe as far as After hand tightening, turn the fitting or pipe at least one
you can. full turn to tighten. In order to achieve the proper alignment,
you may tighten up to two full turns, but do not overtighten.
Use one pipe wrench to stabilize the fixed pipe or fitting, while
using the second wrench to tighten the movable pipe or fitting.
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■ How to Make a Flared Fitting
Flared fittings are used to connect soft copper gas
supply pipes to a threaded nipple: either on a gas Tools & Materials 쑺
appliance or another fitting. The key to success using
a flared fitting is making a perfectly flared end in Copper flaring tool
the tubing with a flaring tool. Flaring tools can be Soft, flexible copper tubing
purchased at most hardware stores. Make sure the Brass flare nut
brass flared fitting you purchase matches the diameter Channel-type pliers
of the soft copper tubing you are using. Handle the Tubing cutter
soft copper gently and avoid overtightening the flaring Flaring tool
tool, which can cause the copper tube to crack
1 2
Flare fitting
(nut)
Valve flaring
tool base
Tubing cutter
Cut the end of the soft copper tubing with a tubing cutter Select the correct outside diameter setting on the flaring
and deburr the ends. Slide the brass flare nut over the cut end, tool base strip and then insert the tubing end into the opening.
with the threaded female end facing out. Clamp the base shut tightly.
3 4
Orient the flaring cone in the reamer over the open end of Remove the tool and inspect the flared tube end, making
the tubing and tighten the flaring tool until the cone is seated sure there are no cracks and the nut fits cleanly against the
fully in the tubing end, causing it to flare out. flared tube end. Attach the nut to the threaded nipple and
tighten to make the joint. Test for leaks.
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APPENDIX: Planning Your Project
S tart planning by drawing maps. Mapping your
home’s plumbing system is a good way to
familiarize yourself with the plumbing layout and can
help you when planning plumbing renovation projects.
With a good map, you can envision the best spots for
new fixtures and plan new pipe routes more efficiently.
Maps also help in emergencies, when you need to
locate burst or leaking pipes quickly.
Draw a plumbing map for each floor on tracing
paper, so you can overlay floors and still read the
information below. Make your drawings to scale and
have all plumbing fixtures marked. Fixture templates
and tracing paper are available at drafting supply stores.
Snoop around your basement for clues about the locations Use standard plumbing symbols on your map to identify
of supply, drain, vent, and gas pipes in your walls. the components of your plumbing system. These symbols will
help you and your building inspector follow connections and
transitions more easily.
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■ How to Map Your Plumbing System
1 2
Draw a floorplan for the basement. The drawing should be Draw the first floor on a separate piece of transparent
scaled, legible, and accurate. Note the plumbing features using drafting paper, using the same scale that you used for the
the symbols on the previous page. basement. Draw separate floorplans for any additional floors.
3
Overlay upper-floor diagrams onto the first-floor map, and Option: Use floor plans of your house to create your plumbing
mark the location of pipes—generally they will extend directly map. Convert the general outlines for each story to tracing
up from fixtures below. If first-story and second-story fixtures paper. The walls can be drawn larger than scale to fit all
are not closely aligned, the supply pipes follow an offset route the plumbing symbols you will map, but keep overall room
in wall or floor cavities. By overlaying the maps, you can see dimensions and plumbing fixtures to scale. Be sure to make
the relation and distance between fixtures and accurately diagrams for basements and attic spaces as well.
estimate pipe routes.
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■ Understanding Plumbing Codes
The plumbing code is the set of regulations that
building officials and inspectors use to evaluate your
project plans and the quality of your work. Codes
vary from region to region, but most are based on the
National Uniform Plumbing Code, the authority we
used in the development of this book.
Code books are available for reference at
bookstores and government offices. However, they
are highly technical, difficult-to-read manuals. More
user-friendly for do-it-yourselfers are the variety of
code handbooks available at bookstores and libraries.
These handbooks are based on the National Uniform
Plumbing Code but are easier to read and include
many helpful diagrams and photos.
Plumbing code handbooks sometimes discuss
three different plumbing “zones” in an effort to
accommodate variations in regulations from state
to state. The states included in each zone are
listed below.
Zone 1: Washington, Oregon, California,
Nevada, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, North Dakota,
South Dakota, Minnesota, Iowa, Nebraska, Kansas,
Utah, Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, Indiana, parts
of Texas.
Zone 2: Alabama, Arkansas, Louisiana,
Tennessee, North Carolina, Mississippi, Georgia,
Florida, South Carolina, parts of Texas, parts of
Maryland, parts of Delaware, parts of Oklahoma,
parts of West Virginia.
Zone 3: Virginia, Kentucky, Missouri,
Illinois, Michigan, Ohio, Pennsylvania, New York,
Connecticut, Massachusetts, Vermont, New
Hampshire, Rhode Island, New Jersey, parts of
Delaware, parts of West Virginia, parts of Maine,
parts of Maryland, parts of Oklahoma.
Remember that your local plumbing code always
supersedes the national code. Local codes may be
more restrictive than the national code. Your local
building inspector is a valuable source of information
and may provide you with a convenient summary sheet
of the regulations that apply to your project.
The plumbing inspector is the final authority when it comes
to evaluating your work. By visually examining and testing your
new plumbing, the inspector ensures that your work is safe
and functional.
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GETTING A PERMIT
To ensure public safety, your community requires
that you obtain a permit for most plumbing projects, House
including most of the projects demonstrated in this book.
When you visit your city building inspection office
to apply for a permit, the building official will want
to review three drawings of your plumbing project:
a site plan, a water supply diagram, and a drain-
waste-vent diagram. These drawings are described on
this page. If the official is satisfied that your project
meets code requirements, he or she will issue you a
plumbing permit, which is your legal permission to
Water service 65'
Driveway
begin work. The building official also will specify an
Sewer 65'
inspection schedule for your project. As your project
nears completion, you will be asked to arrange for
an inspector to visit your home while the pipes are
exposed to review the installation and ensure its safety.
Although do-it-yourselfers often complete
Street
complex plumbing projects without obtaining a permit
or having the work inspected, we strongly urge you
The site plan shows the location of the water main and sewer
to comply with the legal requirements in your area. A main with respect to your yard and home. The distances from
flawed plumbing system can be dangerous, and it can your foundation to the water main and from the foundation to
potentially threaten the value of your home. the main sewer should be indicated on the site plan.
6' of 3⁄4" pipe M To street
Meter
3” vent stack
WH Water heater
65' of 1" pipe
2" vent pipe
8' of 3⁄4" Sink
pipe
2" drain
11⁄2" drain
8' of 1⁄2" pipe
3" toilet drain
3" waste stack
3" cleanout
5' of 1⁄2" Toilet stub-outs
pipe Sink stubouts
3" drain To sewer
Bathtub
The supply riser diagram shows the length of the hot and A DWV diagram shows the routing of drain and vent pipes in
cold water pipes and the relation of the fixtures to one another. your system. Make sure to indicate the lengths of drain pipes
The inspector will use this diagram to determine the proper and the distances between fixtures. The inspector will use
size for the new water supply pipes in your system. this diagram to determine if you have properly sized the drain
traps, drain pipes, and vent pipes in your project.
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■ Sizing for Water Distribution Pipes
Fixture Unit rating Size of Size of Maximum length (ft.)—
service pipe distribution total fixture units
Toilet 3
from street pipe from
Vanity sink 1 40 60 80 100 150 200
water meter
Shower 2 3
⁄4" 1
⁄ 2" 9 8 7 6 5 4
Bathtub 2 3
⁄4" 3
⁄4" 27 23 19 17 14 11
Dishwasher 2 3
⁄4" 1" 44 40 36 33 28 23
Kitchen sink 2
1" 1" 60 47 41 36 30 25
Clothes washer 2
1" 1 ⁄4"1
102 87 76 67 52 44
Utility sink 2
Sillcock 3
Water distribution pipes are the main pipes extending from the water meter throughout the house, supplying water to the branch
pipes leading to individual fixtures. To determine the size of the distribution pipes, you must first calculate the total demand in “fixture
units” (above, left) and the overall length of the water supply lines, from the street hookup through the water meter and to the most
distant fixture in the house. Then, use the second table (above, right) to calculate the minimum size for the water distribution pipes.
Note that the fixture unit capacity depends partly on the size of the street-side pipe that delivers water to your meter.
■ Sizes for Branch Pipes
& Supply Tubes ■ Valve Requirements
Fixture Min. branch Min. supply
pipe size tube size
Toilet 1
⁄ 2" 3
⁄ 8"
Main shutoff
Vanity sink 1
⁄ 2" 3
⁄ 8"
Shower 1
⁄ 2" 1
⁄ 2"
Water meter
Bathtub 1
⁄ 2" 1
⁄ 2"
Dishwasher 1
⁄ 2" 1
⁄ 2"
Kitchen sink 1
⁄ 2" 1
⁄ 2"
Clothes washer 1
⁄ 2" 1
⁄ 2"
Utility sink 1
⁄ 2" 1
⁄ 2"
Sillcock 3
⁄4" N.A.
Water heater 3
⁄4" N.A. Full-bore ball valve
on house side
Branch pipes are the water supply lines that run from the Full-bore gate valves or ball valves are required in the
distribution pipes toward the individual fixtures. Supply tubes following locations: on both the street side and house side
are the vinyl, chromed copper, or braided tubes that carry of the water meter; on the inlet pipes for water heaters
water from the branch pipes to the fixtures. Use the chart and heating system boilers. Individual fixtures should have
above as a guide when sizing branch pipes and supply tubes. accessible shutoff valves, but these need not be full-bore
valves. All sillcocks must have individual control valves located
inside the house.
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■ Modifying Water Pressure ■ Anti-Siphon Devices
Pressure-reducing valve
Pressure-reducing valve (shown above) is required if
the water pressure coming into your home is greater than
80 pounds per square inch (psi). The reducing valve should
be installed near the point where the water service enters
the building. A booster pump may be required if the water
pressure in your home is below 40 psi.
Vacuum breaker
■ Preventing Water Hammer
Water hammer arresters may be required by code. Water Vacuum breakers must be installed on all indoor and outdoor
hammer is a problem that may occur when the fast-acting hose bibs and any outdoor branch pipes that run underground
valves on washing machines or other appliances trap air and (page 177, step 7). Vacuum breakers prevent contaminated
cause pipes to vibrate against framing members. The arrester water from being drawn into the water supply pipes in the
works as a shock absorber and has a watertight diaphragm event of a sudden drop in water pressure in the water main.
inside. It is mounted to a T-fitting installed near the appliance When a drop in pressure produces a partial vacuum, the
(see page 294). breaker prevents siphoning by allowing air to enter the pipes.
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Pipe Support Intervals
Type Vertical-run Horizontal-run
of support support
pipe interval interval
Copper 10 ft. 6 ft.
PEX 5 ft. 3 ft.
CPVC 10 ft. 3 ft.
PVC 10 ft. 4 ft.
Steel 12 ft. 10 ft.
Iron 15 ft. 5 ft.
Drain cleanouts make your DWV system easier to service. Minimum intervals for supporting pipes are determined by
In most areas, the plumbing code requires that you place the type of pipe and its orientation in the system. See page
cleanouts at the end of every horizontal drain run. Where 40 for acceptable pipe support materials. Remember that the
horizontal runs are not accessible, removable drain traps will measurements shown above are minimum requirements; local
suffice as cleanouts. code may require supports at closer intervals.
■ Fixture Units ■ Sizes for Horizontal
& Minimum Trap Size & Vertical Drain Pipes
Fixture Fixture units Min. trap size Pipe size Maximum Maximum
fixture units fixture units
Shower 2 2"
for horizontal for vertical
Vanity sink 1 1 1⁄ 4" branch drain drain stacks
Bathtub 2 1 1⁄ 2" 1 1⁄ 4" 1 2
Dishwasher 2 1 1⁄ 2" 1 ⁄ 2"
1
3 4
Kitchen sink 2 1 1⁄ 2" 2" 6 10
Kitchen sink* 3 1 1⁄ 2" 2 ⁄ 2"
1
12 20
Clothes washer 2 1 1⁄ 2" 3" 20 30
Utility sink 2 1 1⁄ 2" 4" 160 240
Floor drain 1 2"
*Kitchen sink with attached food disposer
Minimum trap size for fixtures is determined by the drain Drain pipe sizes are determined by the load on the pipes, as
fixture unit rating, a unit of measure assigned by the plumbing measured by the total fixture units. Horizontal drain pipes less
code. Note: Kitchen sinks rate 3 units if they include an than 3" in diameter should slope 1⁄4" per foot toward the main
attached food disposer, 2 units otherwise. drain. Pipes 3" or more in diameter should slope 1⁄8" per foot.
Note: Horizontal or vertical drain pipes for a toilet must be 3"
or larger.
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■ Vent Pipe Sizes, ■ Vent Pipe Orientation
Critical Distances to Drain Pipe
Vent pipe
Size of Minimum Maximum
fixture vent pipe critical
drain size distance
1 1⁄ 4" 1 1⁄ 4" 21⁄2 ft.
1 1⁄ 2" 1 1⁄ 4" 31⁄2 ft.
2" 1 1⁄ 2" 5 ft. Drain pipe
3" 2" 6 ft.
4" 3" 10 ft. 45°
Vent pipes are usually one pipe size smaller than the drain Vent pipes must extend in an upward direction from
pipes they serve. Code requires that the distance between the drains, no less than 45º from horizontal. This ensures that
drain trap and the vent pipe fall within a maximum “critical waste water cannot flow into the vent pipe and block it. At the
distance,” a measurement that is determined by the size of the opposite end, a new vent pipe should connect to an existing
fixture drain. Use this chart to determine both the minimum vent pipe or main waste-vent stack at a point at least 6" above
size for the vent pipe and the maximum critical distance. the highest fixture draining into the system.
■ Wet Venting ■ Auxiliary Venting
Vent pipe
Critical
distance Min. 6" Separate 2" vent
required if toilet-
to-stack distance
is more than 6 ft.
2" sink drain
serves as
wet vent for
bathtub Critical distance
Wet vents are pipes that serve as a vent for one fixture and Fixtures must have an auxiliary vent if the distance to
a drain for another. The sizing of a wet vent is based on the the main waste-vent stack exceeds the critical distance (chart
total fixture units it supports (opposite page): a 3" wet vent can above). A toilet, for example, should have a separate vent
serve up to 12 fixture units; a 2" wet vent is rated for 4 fixture pipe if it is located more than 6 ft. from the main waste-vent
units; a 11⁄2" wet vent, for only 1 fixture unit. Note: The distance stack. This secondary vent pipe should connect to the stack or
between the wet-vented fixture and the wet vent itself must be an existing vent pipe at a point at least 6" above the highest
no more than the maximum critical distance (chart above). fixture on the system.
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Testing New Plumbing Pipes
W hen the building inspector comes to review your
new plumbing, he or she may require that you
perform a pressure test on the DWV and water supply
lines as he or she watches. The inspection and test
should be performed after the system is completed but
before the new pipes are covered with wallboard. To
ensure that the inspection goes smoothly, it is a good
idea to perform your own pretest, so you can locate
and repair any problems before the inspector visits.
The DWV system is tested by blocking off the
new drain and vent pipes, then pressuring the system
with air to see if it leaks. At the fixture stub-outs, the
DWV pipes can be capped off or plugged with test
balloons designed for this purpose. The air pump,
pressure gauge, and test balloons required to test the
DWV system can be obtained at tool rental centers. A pressure gauge and air pump are used to test DWV lines.
The system is first blocked off at each fixture and at points
Testing the water supply lines is a simple matter
near where the new drain and vent pipes connect to the main
of turning on the water and examining the joints for stack. Air is then pumped into the system to a pressure of
leaks. If you find a leak, you will have to drain the 5 pounds per square inch (psi). To pass inspection, the system
pipes, then remake the faulty joints. must hold this pressure for 15 minutes.
■ How to Test New DWV Pipes
1 2
Insert a test balloon into the test T-fittings at the top and Block toilet drains with a test balloon designed for a
bottom of the new DWV line, blocking the pipes entirely. Note: closet bend. Large test balloons may have to be inflated with
Ordinary T-fittings installed near the bottom of the drain line and an air pump.
near the top of the vent line are generally used for test fittings.
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3 4
Cap off the remaining fixture drains by solvent-gluing test At a cleanout fitting, insert a weenie—a special test balloon
caps onto the stub-outs. After the system is tested, these caps with an air gauge and inflation valve. Attach an air pump to the
are simply knocked loose with a hammer. valve on the weenie and pressurize the pipes to 5 psi. Watch
the pressure gauge for 15 minutes to ensure that the system
does not lose pressure.
5 6
If the DWV system loses air when pressurized, check After the DWV system has been inspected and approved
each joint for leaks by rubbing soapy water over the fittings by a building official, remove the test balloons and close the
and looking for active bubbles. When you identify a problem test T-fittings by solvent-gluing caps onto the open inlets.
joint, cut away the existing fitting and solvent-glue a new fitting
in place, using couplings and short lengths of pipe.
Appendix: Planning Your Project ■ 327HI0552_CGPlumb_318-336_.indd 327 Provision (CPI)•CG To Plumbing HI 0552 TEXT 3/15/08 9:28:03 AM CD308-25_4264 1st Proof BLACK
Glossary
Access panel — Opening Coupling — Fitting that Nipple — Pipe with Trap — Curved section of
in a wall or ceiling that connects two pieces threaded ends drain, filled with standing
provides access to the of pipe water, that prevents sewer
O.D. — Outside diameter
plumbing system gases from entering
DWV — Drain, waste,
Plumber’s putty — A soft a house
Air admittance valve — A and vent; the system for
material used for sealing
valve that allows air into removing water from Union — Fitting that joins
joints between fixtures and
a drain line in order to a house two sections of pipe but
supply or drain parts
facilitate proper draining. can be disconnected
DWV stack — Pipe that
Often used where Reducer — A fitting without cutting
connects house drain
traditional vent pipe would that connects pipes of
system to a sewer line at Vacuum breaker —
be difficult to install. different sizes
the bottom and vents air to Attachment for outdoor
Appliance — Powered outside of house at the top Riser — Assembly of and below-ground fixtures
device that uses water, water supply fittings and that prevents waste water
Elbow — Angled fitting
such as a water heater, pipes that distributes from entering supply
that changes the direction
dishwasher, washing water upward lines if water supply
of a pipe
machine, whirlpool, or pressure drops
water softener Run — Assembly of pipes
Fixture — Device that uses
that extends from water Wet vent — Pipe that
water, such as a sink, tub,
Auger — Flexible tool used supply to fixture, or from serves as a drain for one
shower, sillcock, or toilet
for clearing obstructions in drain to stack fixture and as a vent
drain lines Flapper (tank ball) — for another
Saddle valve — Fitting
Rubber seal that controls
Ballcock — Valve that clamped to copper supply Y-fitting — Fitting shaped
the flow of water from a
controls the water supply pipe, with hollow spike that like the letter Y used
toilet tank to a toilet bowl
entering a toilet tank punctures the pipe to divert for creating or joining
Flux (soldering paste) — water to another device, branch lines
Blow bag — Expanding
Paste applied to metal usually a dishwasher or
rubber device that attaches
joints before soldering to refrigerator icemaker
to a garden hose; used for
increase joint strength
clearing floor drains Sanitary fitting — Fitting
Hand auger (snake) — that joins DWV pipes;
Branch drain line — Pipe
Hand tool with flexible allows solid material
that connects additional
shaft, used for clearing to pass through
lines to a drain system
clogs in drain lines without clogging
Branch line — Pipe that
Hose bib — Any faucet Shutoff valve — Valve that
connects additional lines to
spout that is threaded to controls the water supply
a water supply system
accept a hose for one fixture or appliance
Cleanout — Cover in
I.D. — Inside diameter; Sillcock — Compression
a waste pipe or trap
plumbing pipes are faucet used on the outside
that provides access
classified by I.D. of a house
for cleaning
Loop vent — A special Soil stack — Main vertical
Closet auger — Flexible
type of vent configuration drain line, which carries
rod used to clear
used in kitchen sink waste from all branch
obstructions in toilets
island installations drains to a sewer line
Closet bend — Curved
Main shutoff valve — Solder — Metal alloy
fitting that fits between
Valve that controls water used for permanently
a closet flange and a
supply to an entire joining metal (usually
toilet drain
house; usually next to the copper) pipes
Closet flange — Ring water meter
T-fitting — Fitting shaped
at the opening of a toilet
Motorized auger — Power like the letter T used
drain, used as the base for
tool with flexible shaft, for creating or joining
a toilet
used for clearing tree roots branch lines
from sewer lines
328 ■ COMPLETE GUIDE TO PLUMBINGHI0552_CGPlumb_318-336_.indd 328 Provision (CPI)•CG To Plumbing HI 0552 TEXT 3/15/08 9:28:05 AM CD308-25_4264 1st Proof BLACK
Metric Conversion Chart
Lumber Dimensions
Nominal - U.S. Actual - U.S. (in inches) Metric Nominal - U.S. Actual - U.S. (in inches) Metric
1×2 3
⁄ 4 × 1 1⁄ 2 19 × 38 mm 1 1⁄ 2 × 4 1 1⁄ 4 × 3 1⁄ 2 32 × 89 mm
1×3 3
⁄ 4 × 2 1⁄ 2 19 × 64 mm 1 1⁄ 2 × 6 1 1⁄ 4 × 5 1⁄ 2 32 × 140 mm
1×4 3
⁄ 4 × 3 1⁄ 2 19 × 89 mm 1 1⁄ 2 × 8 1 1⁄ 4 × 7 1⁄ 4 32 × 184 mm
1×5 3
⁄ 4 × 4 1⁄ 2 19 × 114 mm 11⁄2 × 10 1 1⁄ 4 × 9 1⁄ 4 32 × 235 mm
1×6 3
⁄ 4 × 5 1⁄ 2 19 × 140 mm 11⁄2 × 12 11⁄4 × 111⁄4 32 × 286 mm
1×7 3
⁄ 4 × 6 1⁄ 4 19 × 159 mm 2×4 1 1⁄ 2 × 3 1⁄ 2 38 × 89 mm
1×8 3
⁄ 4 × 7 1⁄ 4 19 × 184 mm 2×6 1 1⁄ 2 × 5 1⁄ 2 38 × 140 mm
1 × 10 3
⁄ 4 × 9 1⁄ 4 19 × 235 mm 2×8 1 1⁄ 2 × 7 1⁄ 4 38 × 184 mm
1 × 12 3
⁄4 × 111⁄4 19 × 286 mm 2 × 10 1 1⁄ 2 × 9 1⁄ 4 38 × 235 mm
1 1⁄ 4 × 4 1 × 3 1⁄ 2 25 × 89 mm 2 × 12 11⁄2 × 111⁄4 38 × 286 mm
1 1⁄ 4 × 6 1 × 5 1⁄ 2 25 × 140 mm 3×6 2 1⁄ 2 × 5 1⁄ 2 64 × 140 mm
1 1⁄ 4 × 8 1 × 7 1⁄ 4 25 × 184 mm 4×4 3 1⁄ 2 × 3 1⁄ 2 89 × 89 mm
11⁄4 × 10 1 × 9 1⁄ 4 25 × 235 mm 4×6 3 1⁄ 2 × 5 1⁄ 2 89 × 140 mm
11⁄4 × 12 1 × 111⁄4 25 × 286 mm
Metric Conversions
To Convert: To: Multiply by: To Convert: To: Multiply by:
Inches Millimeters 25.4 Millimeters Inches 0.039
Inches Centimeters 25.4 Centimeters Inches 0.394
Feet Meters 0.305 Meters Feet 3.28
Yards Meters 0.914 Meters Yards 1.09
Square inches Square centimeters 6.45 Square centimeters Square inches 0.155
Square feet Square meters 0.093 Square meters Square feet 10.8
Square yards Square meters 0.836 Square meters Square yards 1.2
Ounces Milliliters 30.0 Milliliters Ounces .033
Pints (U.S.) Liters 0.473 (lmp. 0.568) Liters Pints (U.S.) 2.114 (lmp. 1.76)
Quarts (U.S.) Liters 0.946 (lmp. 1.136) Liters Quarts (U.S.) 1.057 (lmp. 0.88)
Gallons (U.S.) Liters 3.785 (lmp. 4.546) Liters Gallons (U.S.) 0.264 (lmp. 0.22)
Ounces Grams 28.4 Grams Ounces 0.035
Pounds Kilograms 0.454 Kilograms Pounds 2.2
Counterbore, Shank, & Pilot Hole Diameters
Screw Counterbore Diameter for Clearance Hole for Pilot Hole Diameter
Size Screw Head (in inches) Screw Shank (in inches) Hard Wood (in inches) Soft Wood (in inches)
#1 .146 (9⁄64) 5
⁄64 3
⁄64 1
⁄32
#2 1
⁄4 3
⁄32 3
⁄64 1
⁄32
#3 1
⁄4 7
⁄64 1
⁄16 3
⁄64
#4 1
⁄4 1
⁄8 1
⁄16 3
⁄64
#5 1
⁄4 1
⁄8 5
⁄64 1
⁄16
#6 5
⁄16 9
⁄64 3
⁄32 5
⁄64
#7 5
⁄16 5
⁄32 3
⁄32 5
⁄64
#8 3
⁄8 11
⁄64 1
⁄8 3
⁄32
#9 3
⁄8 11
⁄64 1
⁄8 3
⁄32
#10 3
⁄8 3
⁄16 1
⁄8 7
⁄64
#11 1
⁄2 3
⁄16 5
⁄32 9
⁄64
#12 1
⁄2 7
⁄32 9
⁄64 1
⁄8
Conversions ■ 329HI0552_CGPlumb_318-336_.indd 329 Provision (CPI)•CG To Plumbing HI 0552 TEXT 3/15/08 9:28:05 AM CD308-25_4264 1st Proof BLACK
Resources
American Standard Kohler
800 442 1902 800 4 KOHLER
www.americanstandard-us.com www.kohlerco.com
General Electric National Kitchen & Bathroom Assoc. (NKBA)
www.ge.com 800 843 6522
www.nkba.com
Hakatai
888 667 2429 Plumbing and Drainage Institute
www.hakatai.com 978 557 0720
Featured on page 112, 114, 125 www.pdionline.org
International Assoc. of Plumbing & Mechanical Officials Price Pfister
909 472 4100 800 624 2120
www.iapmo.org Www.pricepfister.com
International Code Council Swanstone
800 284 4406 800 325 7008
www.iccsafe.org Www.swanstone.com
John Guest Co. Toto
Speedfit push-in fittings 800 350 8686
www.johnguest.com www.totousa.com
Kleer Drain World Plumbing Council
www.kleerdrain.com +44 17 08 47 27 91
email: secretariat@worldplumbing.org
Kleve Inc. www.worldplumbing.org
952 941 4211
www.kleveheating.com
Credits
p. 13 photo Terry J Alcorn / www.istock.com p. 101 (top left & right) photos courtesy of Kohler
p. 18 photo courtesy of Kohler p. 101 (lower left) photo Auke Holwerda / www.istock.com
p. 19 photos courtesy of Price Pfister p. 101 (lower right) photo courtesy of Kohler
p. 29 photo courtesy of GE p. 115 photo Jennifer Morgan / www.istock.com
P. 48 photos courtesy of Price Pfister p. 120 photo courtesy of Kohler
p. 64 photo courtesy of Ceramic Tiles of Italy p. 122 photo courtesy of GE
p. 71 photos courtesy of Ceramic Tiles of Italy p. 132 photo Nicola Gavin / www.istock.com
p. 72 photo courtesy of American Standard p. 137 (lower left & right) photos courtesy of Kohler
p. 73 photo (top left) courtesy of Kohler p. 137 (top right) photo courtesy of Ceramic Tiles of Italy
p. 80 photo courtesy of Kohler p. 140 (top) photo courtesy of Swanstone
p. 96 bidet courtesy of Kohler p. 226 photo courtesy of Kohler
p. 97 photo courtesy of Toto p. 315 photo Norman Pogson / www.istock.com
p. 100 urinal courtesy of Kohler
330 ■ COMPLETE GUIDE TO PLUMBINGHI0552_CGPlumb_318-336_.indd 330 Provision (CPI)•CG To Plumbing HI 0552 TEXT 3/25/08 4:46:45 PM CD308-121_3184 2nd Proof BLACK
Index
A overview of, 56 installing, 85–87
ABS plastic pipes. See Rigid plastic pipes fixing drains, 240–243 overview of, 84
Adjustable wrenches, 269 installing DWV pipes for, 166–167 3-piece surrounds
Aerators, repairing, 226, 227 installing flexible adapters, 239 installing, 81–83
Air admittance valves (AAVs) repairing showerheads, 238 overview of, 80
common applications, 189 sinks urinals
for island sinks, 178 avoiding clogging, 240 installing, 102–105
overview of, 188 clearing traps, 244 overview of, 100–101
Anti-siphon devices, 323 drain hookups, 49 Bathtubs. See Tubs
Appliances faucets Bidets
gas consumption of, 193 drain hookups, 49 installing, 98–99
installing gas lines for, 192–197 installing single-body, 53 overview of, 96–97
lines to, 6, 8 installing widespread, 50–52 Black pipe, working with, 316
Augers overview of, 48 Blow bags, described, 270
described, 270, 271 repairs, 218–219, 221 Branch drain lines, clearing, 146–147, 248
using, 241, 245 installing DWV pipes for, 163–165
C
installing integral vanity tops,
B Cabinets, installing vanity, 140
140–141
Ball-peen hammers, 269 Cartridge faucets
installing pedestal, 132–133
Ball-type faucets described, 220, 223
installing wall-hung vanities,
described, 220, 224 repairing single-handle tub & shower,
134–135
replacing, 221, 224 236–237
vessel, 136–139
Ball valves, 311 replacing, 221, 223
toilets
Basement bathrooms Cast iron pipes
adjusting handles and lift chains/
overview of, 170 overview of, 300
wires, 202
plumbing, 171–175 removing & replacing, 301–303
choosing new, 12–13
Basin wrenches, 269 Caulk guns, 268
common problems and repairs,
Bathrooms Channel-type pliers, 269
200–201, 203
basement Chisels, 268
fixing rocking, 214–215
overview of, 170 Circuit testers, 268
installing DWV pipes for, 163–165
plumbing, 171–175 Closet augers
installing new, 15–17
bidets described, 270
overview of, 200
installing, 98–99 using to clear clogged toilets, 213
removing old, 14
overview of, 96–97 Closet flanges (toilet), 214–215
repairing if flushing stops too
half Codes & permits, 320–321
soon, 205
overview of, 176 Cold chisels, 268
replacing drain lines, 216–217
plumbing, 177 Compression faucets
replacing fill valves, 206–207
master described, 220, 222
replacing flush valves, 208–209
connecting DWV pipes to main replacing, 221, 222
resetting tank water level, 204
waste-vent stack, 168 Compression fittings, 312–313
unclogging, 210–213
installing DWV pipes for toilet Copper pipes
tubs
& sinks, 163–165 cutting, 276, 277
alcove
installing DWV pipes for tubs & joining with compression union
installing, 76–79
showers, 166–167 fitting, 313
overview of, 72, 73
installing water supply pipes, 169 soldering, 276, 278–280
removing old, 74–75
overview of, 162 taking apart soldered joints, 281
combination faucets for showers &
showers types of, 274–275
fixing single-handle, 236–237
combination faucets for tubs & working with gas, 314–315, 317
fixing three-handle, 232–233
fixing single-handle, 236–237 CPVC plastic pipes. See Rigid
fixing two-handle, 234, 235
fixing three-handle, 232–233 plastic pipes
types of, 230–231
fixing two-handle, 234, 235 Cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) pipes
drain-waste-overflow kits for, 73
types of, 230–231 installing, 290–291
fixing drains, 240–243
custom bases making connections, 293
installing DWV pipes for, 166–167
building tiled, 66–70 overview of, 288–289, 291
jetted
design ideas, 71 plumbing water-supply system using,
installing, 89–95
overview of, 64–65 294–295
overview of, 88
enclosure kits for retrofitting, 120
replacing spouts, 235
installing enclosures, 57–61 system design with, 292
sliding doors
installing hinged doors, 62–63 Crystals (salt), 106
Index ■ 331HI0552_CGPlumb_331-336_.indd 331 Provision (CPI)•CG To Plumbing HI 0552 TEXT 3/25/08 5:15:31 PM CD308-121_3184 2nd Proof BLACK
D Elevated toilets, 13 Gas consumption of appliances, 193
Disc faucets Elongated toilet bowls, 13 Gas lines, installing new, 192–197
described, 220, 225 Evaporated salt, 106 Gas pipes, working with, 314–317
replacing, 221, 225 Expansion nozzles, described, 270 Gas water heaters
Discharge hoses, lengthening, 32 installing, 41, 43–47
Dishwashers parts of, 42
F
drain tees and, 35 Gate valves, 311
Faucets
loading, 29 Globe valves, 311
ball-type
overview of, 28 Gravity-assisted toilets, 13
described, 220, 224
replacing old, 30–33 replacing, 221, 224 H
Doors bathroom sink Hacksaws, 268
installing hinged shower, 62–63 drain hookups, 49 Half bathrooms
sliding tub installing single-body, 53 overview of, 176
installing, 85–87 installing widespread, 50–52 plumbing, 177
overview of, 84 overview of, 48 Hammers, 269
Drains cartridge Hand augers
bathrooms described, 220, 223 described, 270
fixing tub & shower, 240–243 repairing single-handle tub & using, 241, 245
installing pop-up, 54–55 shower, 236–237 Hand tools, described, 268–271
replacing toilet lines, 216–217 replacing, 221, 223 Home plumbing system, described, 6–9
clearers, 211 common problems and repairs, Hose bibs, fixing leaking, 310
clearing branch lines, 247 218–219 Hoses, lengthening discharge, 32
fittings for, 304 compression Hot water dispensers
floor described, 220, 222 installing, 111–113
clearing, 248–249 replacing, 221, 222 overview of, 110
kitchen sink hook-ups to, 27 fixing combination Hydromassage, 88
hookups for bathroom faucets, 49 single-handle, 236–237
installing standpipe, 150–151 I
three-handle, 232–233
kitchen Ice makers
two-handle, 234, 235
choosing new, 25 installing, 115–119
types of, 230–231
hooking up, 26–27 overview of, 114–115
kitchen sink
kits for, 25 Island sinks, installing DWV pipes for,
choosing new, 18–19
parts of, 24 183–187
installing new, 21–23
replacing branch, 250–253 removing old, 20 J
replacing main cleanout plug, 247 pot fillers, 120–121 Jetted tubs
Drain tees, 35 Files, 269 installing, 89–95
Drain-waste-overflow kits (for tubs), 73 Fittings overview of, 88
Drain-waste-vent systems (DWVs) compression, 312–313
described, 6, 9, 304 K
for copper pipes, 274 Kitchens
installing pipes for island sinks, making flared, 317
183–187 drains & traps
T-fittings, 157, 304 choosing new, 25
installing pipes for toilets & sinks, types of, 272–273, 304–305
163–165 for dishwashers and food
using transition, 307 disposers, 35
installing pipes for tubs & showers, Y-fittings, 304
166–167 hooking up, 26–27
Fixtures, described, 6, 8 kits for, 25
installing pipes for wall sinks, 180–182 Flanges (toilet), 214–215
main waste-vent stack parts of, 24
Flared fittings, making, 317 faucets
clearing, 246 Flashlights, 268
connecting drain & vent pipes to, 168 choosing new, 18–19
Flexible PE (polyethylene) pipes, 286–287 installing new, 21–23
replacing, 254–259 Food disposers
replacing branch drains & vents, removing old, 20
installing, 36–39 plumbing remodeled
250–253 overview of, 34–35
testing new pipes, 326–327 air admittance valves and, 178,
Framing member chart, 156 188, 189
vent fittings for, 157, 304 Frost-proof silcocks
wet vents, 325 installing DWV pipes for island
overview of, 128–129 sinks, 183–187
Drills, described, 271 replacing hose-bibs with, 130–131
Dual-flush systems (toilets), 13 installing DWV pipes for wall sinks,
G 180–182
E Galvanized iron pipes & fittings installing new supply pipes,
Electric water heaters leaking, 8 190–191
installing, 47 overview of, 296 overview of, 178
parts of, 42 removing & replacing, 297–299 tips, 179
Electronic sensors for urinals, 101, 105
332 ■ COMPLETE GUIDE TO PLUMBINGHI0552_CGPlumb_331-336_.indd 332 Provision (CPI)•CG To Plumbing HI 0552 TEXT 3/25/08 5:15:32 PM CD308-121_3184 2nd Proof BLACK
sinks soldering, 276, 278–280 Power tools, described, 271
choosing new, 142, 144 taking apart soldered joints, 281 Pressure-assisted toilets, 13
installing self-rimming, 143 types of, 274–275 Project planning
installing undermount, 145–149 working with gas, 314–315, 317 codes & permits, 320–321
unclogging, 245 cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) mapping plumbing system, 319
sprayers & aerators repair, 226–229 installing, 290–291 pipe, supply tube & valve
Knives, 269 making connections, 293 requirements, 322, 324, 325
Kohler Flushometer, 105 overview of, 288–289, 291 plumbing symbols, 318
plumbing water-supply system testing stage, 326–327
L
using, 294–295 trap size requirements, 324
Leaking galvanized iron pipes, 8
for retrofitting, 120 water pressure and, 323
Leaking water meters, 6
system design with, 292 Propane torches, described, 271
Levels, 269
galvanized iron Putty knives, 269
Loop vents, 178, 179
leaking, 8 PVC plastic pipes. See Rigid plastic pipes
M overview of, 296
R
Main drain cleanout plugs, replacing, 247 removing & replacing, 297–299
Ratchet wrenches, 268
Main waste-vent stack for gas lines
Recycling waste water, 6
clearing, 246 installing, 192–197
Rental tools, described, 271
connecting drain & vent pipes to, 168 working with, 314–317
Reverse-osmosis water filters
replacing, 254–259 installing DWV for island sinks,
installing, 124–126
Master bathrooms 183–187
overview of, 122–123
connecting DWV pipes to main waste- installing DWV for tubs & showers,
Right-angle drills, described, 271
vent stack, 168 166–167
Rigid plastic pipes
installing DWV pipes for toilet & sinks, installing DWV for wall sinks, 180–182
cutting, 283
163–165 installing new supply, 190–191
overview of, 282
installing DWV pipes for tubs & installing water supply, 169
solvent-gluing, 284–285
showers, 166–167 new plumbing routes, 158–161
Rock salt, 106
installing water supply pipes, 169 noisy, fixing, 264–265
overview of, 162 outdoor flexible plastic, 286–287 S
Materials, 272–273, 289 rigid plastic Salt water softeners, 106
Motorized drain augers, described, 271 cutting, 283 Saws, 268
overview of, 282 Screwdrivers, 269, 271
N
solvent-gluing, 284–285 Showers
Needlenose pliers, 269
size requirements, 322, 324, 325 combination faucets for tubs &
O supply fixing single-handle, 236–237
One-piece faucets with sprayer, described, 8 fixing three-handle, 232–233
installing, 23 replacing, 260–261 fixing two-handle, 234, 235
One-piece toilets, 13 testing new, 326–327 types of, 230–231
Outdoor flexible plastic pipe, working types of common, 272–273 custom bases
with, 286–287 Pipe wrenches, described, 271 building tiled, 66–70
P Plastic pipes design ideas, 71
Pedestal sinks, installing, 132–133 outdoor flexible, working with, overview of, 64–65
Pellets (salt), 106 286–287 enclosure kits
Permits, 321 rigid installing enclosures, 57–61
PEX pipes cutting, 283 installing hinged doors, 62–63
installing, 290–291 overview of, 282 overview of, 56
making connections, 293 solvent-gluing, 284–285 fixing drains, 240–243
overview of, 288–289, 291 Plastic tubing cutters, described, 270 installing DWV pipes for, 166–167
plumbing water-supply system using, Pliers, 269 installing flexible adapters, 239
294–295 Plumbing basics repairing showerheads, 238
for retrofitting, 120 home system described, 6–9 Shutoff valves
system design with, 292 pipe routes, 158–161 installing with supply tubes, 309
Pipes preparation and planning, 154–157 overview of, 208, 311
burst, repairing, 262–263 Plungers Silcocks, frost-proof
cast iron described, 211, 270 overview of, 128–129
overview of, 300 using to clear clogged toilets, 212 replacing hose-bibs with, 130–131
removing & replacing, 301–303 Plunger-type drains, fixing, 242 Single-body faucets, installing, 53
connecting drain & vent to main Point-of-use water filters, 123 Single-handle faucets
waste-vent stack, 168 Pop-up drains described, 231
copper fixing, 243 fixing, 236–237
cutting, 276, 277 installing, 54–55 Sinks
joining with compression union Pot fillers, 120–121 avoiding clogging, 240
fitting, 313 Power augers, using, 248–249 bathroom faucets
Index ■ 333HI0552_CGPlumb_331-336_.indd 333 Provision (CPI)•CG To Plumbing HI 0552 TEXT 3/25/08 5:15:32 PM CD308-121_3184 2nd Proof BLACK
drain hookups, 49 resetting tank water level, 204 Vanities
installing single-body, 53 unclogging, 210–213 installing integral tops, 140–141
installing widespread, 50–52 Tools, 268–270, 289 installing wall-hung, 134–135
overview of, 48 Transition fittings, using, 307 Vent fittings for DWVs, 157, 304
clearing trap, 244 Traps Venting requirements, 325
faucet repairs clearing sinks, 244 Vents. See Drain-waste-vent systems
common, 218–219 clogged toilets and, 211 (DWVs)
kits, 221 described, 9 Vessel sinks
installing DWV pipes kitchens drains & installing, 138–139
for bathrooms, 163–165 choosing new, 25 overview of, 136–137
for island, 183–187 for dishwashers and food
W
for wall, 180–182 disposers, 35
Wall-hung vanities, installing, 134–135
installing integral vanity tops, 140–141 hooking up, 26–27
Washing machines, installing standpipe
installing wall-hung vanities, 134–135 kits for, 25
drains for, 150–151
in islands, 178 parts of, 24
Water
kitchen size requirements, 324
modifying pressure, 323
choosing new, 142, 144 using hand augers on arm, 245
usage, 6, 13
hooking up drains & traps, 26–27 Tubing cutters, described, 270
waste, 6
installing self-rimming, 143 Tubs
Water dispensers, hot
installing undermount, 145–149 alcove
installing, 111–113
unclogging, 245 installing, 76–79
overview of, 110
pedestal, installing, 132–133 overview of, 72, 73
Water filters
vessel removing old, 74–75
installing reverse-osmosis, 124–126
installing, 138–139 combination faucets for showers &
installing whole-house systems, 127
overview of, 136–137 fixing single-handle, 236–237
overview of, 122–123
Snap cutters, described, 271 fixing three-handle, 232–233
point-of-use, 123
Softened water, 106–107 fixing two-handle, 234, 235
Water hammer arresters, 265, 323
Solar salt, 106 types of, 230–231
Water heaters
Solvent glues, 282, 284–285 drain-waste-overflow kits for, 73
installing electric, 47
Spas fixing drains, 240–243
installing gas, 41, 43–47
installing, 89–95 installing DWV pipes for, 166–167
overview of, 40–42
overview of, 88 jetted
Waterless urinals, 101
Sprayers & aerators, repairing, 226–229 installing, 89–95
Water meters, 6
Spud wrenches, described, 270 overview of, 88
Water softeners
Standpipe drains, installing, 150–151 replacing spouts, 235
installing, 107–109
Supply pipes sliding doors
overview of, 106–107
installing new, 190–191 installing, 85–87
Water supply systems
system described, 8 overview of, 84
described, 8
Supply tubes 3-piece surrounds
plumbing using PEX, 294–295
installing, 309 installing, 81–83
Wet vents, 325
size requirements, 322 overview of, 80
Wet walls, 154
Switch receptacle wires, 110 Two-handle faucets
Whole-house water filtration systems,
described, 231
T installing, 127
fixing, 234, 235
Tape measures, 269 Widespread faucets, installing, 50–52
Two-piece toilets, 13
T-fittings, 157, 304 Wire brushes, 268
Three-handle faucets U Wrenches, described, 268, 269, 270, 271
described, 231 Undermount sinks
Y
fixing, 232–233 installing, 145–149
Y-fittings, 304
Toilets overview of, 144–145
adjusting handles and lift chains/ Urinals
wires, 202 installing, 102–105
choosing new, 12–13 overview of, 100–101
common problems and repairs, Utility knives, 268
200–201, 203
V
fixing rocking, 214–215
Vacuum breakers, 323
installing DWV pipes for, 163–165
Valves
installing new, 15–17
installing shutoff with supply tubes, 309
overview of, 200
replacing, 310
removing old, 14
replacing toilet fill, 206–207
repairing if flushing stops too soon, 205
replacing toilet flush, 208–209
replacing drain lines, 216–217
size requirements, 322
replacing fill valves, 206–207
types of, 208, 311
replacing flush valves, 208–209
334 ■ COMPLETE GUIDE TO PLUMBINGHI0552_CGPlumb_331-336_.indd 334 Provision (CPI)•CG To Plumbing HI 0552 TEXT 3/25/08 5:15:32 PM CD308-121_3184 2nd Proof BLACK
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