Walls & Ceilings
Black & Decker The Complete Guide To Walls & Ceilings Framing Drywall Painting Trimwork
Source: Black & Decker The Complete Guide To Walls & Ceilings Framing Drywall Painting Trimwork.pdf
Source file: Black & Decker The Complete Guide To Walls & Ceilings Framing Drywall Painting Trimwork.pdf
The Complete Guide to
WALLS &
CEILINGS
Framing • Drywall • Painting • Trimwork
MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA61152 - CG Walls & Ceilings 2th Edition_001-039.indd 1 12/6/15 11:47 am 61152 - CG Walls & Ceilings 2th Edition_001-039.indd 1 12/6/15 11:46 am (F39)_Job:06-61152 Title: CSP - Complete Guide Walls & Ceilings 2th Edition Text Dtp:221 Page: 1
First published in 2015 by Cool Springs Press, an imprint of Quarto Acquisitions Editor: Mark Johanson
Publishing Group USA Inc., 400 First Avenue North, Suite 400, Design Manager: Brad Springer
Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA Layout: Danielle Smith-Boldt
Editor: Gary Legwold
© 2015 Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc.
Text © 2003, additional text © 2015 Photography: Rau + Barber
Photo Assistance: Brad Holden
All rights reserved. With the exception of quoting brief passages for
the purposes of review, no part of this publication may be reproduced
without prior written permission from the Publisher.
The information in this book is true and complete to the best of our
knowledge. All recommendations are made without any guarantee
on the part of the author or Publisher, who also disclaims any liability
incurred in connection with the use of this data or specific details.
Cool Springs Press titles are also available at discounts in bulk
quantity for industrial or sales-promotional use. For details write
to Special Sales Manager at Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc.,
400 First Avenue North, Suite 400, Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA.
To find out more about our books, visit us online at
www.coolspringspress.com.
ISBN: 978-1-59186-645-9
Digital edition: 978-1-62788-712-0
Softcover edition: 978-1-59186-645-9
Printed in China
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
The Complete Guide to Walls & Ceilings
Created by: The Editors of Cool Springs Press, in cooperation with BLACK+DECKER.
BLACK+DECKER and the BLACK+DECKER logo are trademarks of The Black & Decker Corporation and are used under license. All rights reserved.
NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The publisher and
BLACK+DECKER cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse of the
information provided.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional
techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions included with products,
since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required:
some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help.
Consult your local building department for information on building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to
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Contents
The Complete Guide to Walls & Ceilings 30
Introduction 7
FRAMING WALLS 9
Anatomy of a House 10
Building Walls 14
Building a Kneewall 19
Building a Wet Wall 22
Installing Interior Doors 28
Framing Basement Foundation Walls 34
Removing a Non-loadbearing Wall 38
DRYWALL MATERIALS & EQUIPMENT 41
Drywall Panel Types 42
Fasteners, Adhesives & Caulks 46
Finishing Materials 48
Drywall Tools & Equipment 52 50
DRYWALL INSTALLATION 59
Making a Layout Plan 60
Preparing for Drywall Installation 62
Measuring & Cutting Drywall 66
Fastening Drywall 72
Hanging Drywall 74
83
Hanging Cementboard 84
Curved Walls 86
Architectural Details 90
Archways 92
Preformed Domes 94
Garage Drywall 98
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Contents (Cont.)
Basement Prep: Solution 1 100
121
Basement Prep: Solution 2 102
Soundproofing 104
Multiple Drywall Layers 108
Soundproof Room 110
FINISHING DRYWALL 113
Recommended Levels of Drywall Finish 114
Installing Corner Bead 116
153
Taping Drywall Seams 120
Fixing Problems & Final Inspection 130
Sanding Drywall 132
Textures & Skim Coats 136
Priming & Painting Drywall 138
INSTALLING TRIM ON WALLS & CEILINGS 149
Victorian Trim Style 150
Arts & Crafts Trim Style 152
Neoclassical Trim Style 154
Modern Trim Style 156
PREPARING FOR A TRIM PROJECT 159
Choosing a Style 160
Tools & Materials 162
Molding Profiles 170
169
Glues & Adhesives 176
Screws & Nails 177
Abrasives 178
Wood Fillers 179
Job Site Preparation 180
Estimating Material 182
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Planning a Deadline 183
187
Planning a Trim Layout 186
Removing Old Trim 188
ESSENTIAL TRIM CARPENTRY SKILLS 191
Measuring & Marking 192
Cutting & Fitting Joints 194
Finishing Trim 206
Sanding Trim 208
197
Painting Trim 210
Clear-Coating Trim 212
TRIM CARPENTRY PROJECTS 217
One-piece Base Molding 218
Built-up Base Molding 220
Picture Rail 224
Chair Rail 226
235
Built-up Chair Rail 228
Crown Molding 232
Built-up Crown Molding 238
Polymer Crown 242
Basic Casing 244
Window Stool & Apron 246
Arts & Crafts Casing 250
Basement Window Trim 252
Wall Frame Moldings 256
Wainscot Frames 259
Metric Conversion 265
Resources/Credits 267
Index 268
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Introduction
hat did the fish say when he ran into the wall?
W Dam!
OK, groan away, but when it comes to walls and of a house and of a wall (king studs, jack studs,
ceilings, don’t you feel for that fish? It can be headers), framing windows, building loadbearing and
daunting, the idea of building or tearing down walls. non-loadbearing walls, building a kneewall, hanging
Same with creating, repairing, or improving a ceiling. a door, and framing a basement foundation.
You can run into an intimidating dam (maybe even The next key section makes you one with
a damn!) when you ponder taking on such projects drywall. Included are drywall panel types; fasteners,
in the very place where you live. Well, The Complete adhesives, and caulks; tools, equipment, and
Guide to Walls & Ceilings will empower you and help finishing materials; planning layouts; how to make all
you get over that dam. sorts of drywall cuts; specialty tools; installing ceiling
Walls and ceilings are dramatic. Externally, they panels; hanging cementboard; building archways
create and define a house where nothing existed and domes; insulating interior basement walls;
previously, which alone is pretty cool. And then taping; and soundproofing.
positioning and decorating the internal walls and Our painting section covers painting your walls
ceilings are what makes that house a home, your and ceilings. You’ll learn about paint sheens, painting
special place. tools, specialized roller techniques, and, of course,
The knowledge and can-do encouragement you’ll cleaning up.
gain from The Complete Guide to Walls & Ceilings The final section is on installing trim. Included
will put you in the position of contributing to dramatic are trim styles (Victorian, Arts & Crafts, etc.); tools
changes in your home. You’ll have the power, tools, and materials needed, especially power tools;
and ability to create a cozy, casual space for a fasteners; molding profiles; glues and adhesives;
home-theater room in the basement, to open up your sanding; removing old trim and molding; mitering
dining-and-kitchen area by removing a wall, and corners; crown molding; wainscoting; and making
to even put an addition onto your house—all while coped cuts.
saving tons of money by doing it yourself. The Complete Guide to Walls & Ceilings has what
The key word in the title is “complete.” We cover you need to get your project done—and we even
it all in the most effective way, by going heavy on throw in complete plans on practical-yet-decorative
well-labeled how-to photos that fully inform someone projects you may not have considered, such as
who’s excited to get into do-it-yourself projects as installing a picture rail or chair rail.
well as someone who has been there, done that— As you take on your wall-and-ceiling projects, The
but still appreciates clear instructions as reference. Complete Guide to Walls & Ceilings has your back.
The Complete Guide to Walls & Ceilings opens If the book could talk, it would say exactly what a
with a chapter on framing. We cover the anatomy painter might say to a wall: I got you covered.
INTRODUCTION 7
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Framing Walls
raming a wall is sometimes referred to as “rough
F carpentry” in the trades. It’s a bit of a misnomer in
that it suggests a kind of a freewheeling process where
hammers are flying and accuracy is not particularly
important. Compared to the precise angle-cutting,
complicated joinery, and high-visibility of trim
carpentry, rough carpentry does have somewhat more
forgiving tolerances (and if you make an error you can
fix it and cover it up with drywall). But taking the time
to measure carefully and make strong, clean joints
is definitely worth the effort. If your 16-on-center
framing turns out to be 17-on-center, you’ll regret it
when installing the wallcoverings.
There are two basic approaches you can take to
framing a wall. Many professional carpenters prefer
to attach the studs to the sole plate and then raise
the wall as a unit, attaching the tops of the studs to
the cap plate on the ceiling once everything is lined
up. This is probably faster, and nailing through the
bottom of the sole plate and into the ends of the
studs makes a very strong joint that is less likely to
splinter the wood than toe-nailing. But since most of
us homeowners are probably building only one or two
walls, “stick-building” the framed wall by attaching
each framing member one-at-a-time as you go is
ultimately more controllable.
In this chapter:
• Anatomy of a House
• Building Walls
• Building a Kneewall
• Building a Wet Wall
• Installing Interior Doors
• Framing Basement Foundation Walls
• Removing a Non-loadbearing Wall
FRAMING WALLS 9
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Anatomy of a House A House with Platform Framing w
Ridge board
efore you start a do-it-yourself carpentry project,
B you should familiarize yourself with a few basic
elements of home construction and remodeling. Take
Roof sheathing Skylight header
j
Shingles
some time to get comfortable with the terminology
of the models shown on the next few pages. The
understanding you will gain in this section will make p
it easier to plan your project, buy the right materials,
and clear up any confusion you might have about the Rafter w
internal design of your home.
If your project includes modifying exterior or load-
Header
bearing walls, you must determine if your house was
Anatomy of a House Load-bearing wall
with Platform Framing
Jack stud
King stud
Top plate
Sole plate
Joist
Header
Studs
Subfloor
Rim joist
Rough sill
Support beam
Platform framing (photos, right and above) is identified by the
floor-level sole plates and ceiling-level top plates to which the
wall studs are attached. Most houses built after 1930 use
platform framing. If you do not have access to unfinished Foundation
Support posts
areas, you can remove the wall surface at the bottom of a wall
to determine what kind of framing was used in your home.
10 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO WALLS & CEILINGS
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built using platform- or balloon-style framing. The
framing style of your home determines what kind of A House with Balloon Framing
temporary supports you will need to install while the
work is in progress. If you have trouble determining Ridge board
what type of framing was used in your home, refer to
the original blueprints, if you have them, or consult a Rafters
building contractor or licensed home inspector.
Framing in a new door or window on an exterior Roof sheathing
wall normally requires installing a header. Make sure
Shingles
that the header you install meets the requirements
of your local building code, and always install cripple
studs where necessary.
Floors and ceilings consist of sheet materials,
joists, and support beams. All floors used as living
areas must have joists with at least 2 × 8 construction.
There are two types of walls: load-bearing and Header
partition. Load-bearing walls require temporary
supports during wall removal or framing of a door or
window. Partition walls carry no structural load and Joist
do not require temporary supports.
Load-bearing wall
Anatomy of a House
with Balloon Framing
Cripple studs
Studs King stud
Jack stud
Subfloor
Sill plate
Rough sill
Fire blocks
Bracing
Main beamam
Support posts
Balloon framing (photos, right and above) is identified by wall Foundation
studs that run uninterrupted from the roof to a sill plate on
the foundation, without the sole plates and top plates found in
platform-framed walls (page opposite). Balloon framing was
used in houses built before 1930, and it is still used in some
new home styles, especially those with high vaulted ceilings.
FRAMING WALLS 11
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Anatomy Details
Many remodeling projects, like adding new doors or If you will be removing more than one wall stud,
windows, require that you remove one or more studs make temporary supports to carry the structural load
in a load-bearing wall to create an opening. When until the header is installed.
planning your project, remember that new openings
require a permanent support beam called a header,
above the removed studs, to carry the structural RECOMMENDED HEADER SIZES
load directly.
The required size for the header is set by local ROUGH OPENING RECOMMENDED HEADER
building codes and varies according to the width of WIDTH CONSTRUCTION
the rough opening. For a window or door opening, a Up to 3' 3
⁄8" plywood between two 2 × 4s
header can be built from two pieces of 2" dimensional
3 to 5' 3
⁄8" plywood between two 2 × 6s
lumber sandwiched around ⅜" plywood (chart, right).
When a large portion of a load-bearing wall (or an 5 to 7' 3
⁄8" plywood between two 2 × 8s
entire wall) is removed, a laminated beam product 7 to 8' 3
⁄8" plywood between two 2 × 10s
can be used to make the new header.
Header
Top plate
Jambs
Cripple studs
Jack stud
King stud
Sole plate
Door opening: The structural load above the door is carried by cripple studs that rest on a header. The ends of the header are
supported by jack studs (also known as trimmer studs) and king studs that transfer the load to the sole plate and the foundation
of the house. The rough opening for a door should be 1" wider and ½" taller than the dimensions of the door unit, including the
jambs. This extra space lets you adjust the door unit during installation.
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Header
Top plate
Jack stud
Jambs
Rough sill King stud
Sole plate
Cripple stud
Window opening: The structural load above the window is carried by cripple studs resting on a header. The ends of the header
are supported by jack studs and king studs, which transfer the load to the sole plate and the foundation of the house. The
rough sill, which helps anchor the window unit but carries no structural weight, is supported by cripple studs. To provide room
for adjustments during installation, the rough opening for a window should be 1" wider and ½" taller than the window unit,
including the jambs.
Framing Options for Window & Door Openings
(new lumber shown in yellow)
Using an existing opening avoids the Framing a new opening is the only Enlarging an existing opening simplifies
need for new framing. This is a good solution when you’re installing a window the framing. In many cases, you can
option in homes with masonry exteriors, or door where none existed or when use an existing king stud and jack stud
which are difficult to alter. Order a you’re replacing a unit with one that is to form one side of the new opening.
replacement unit that is 1" narrower much larger.
and ½" shorter than the rough opening.
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j
Building Walls
artition walls are constructed between load- strong and well made, but their main job is to house
P bearing walls to divide space. They should be doors and to support wall coverings.
Anchoring New Partition Walls Joist
Blocking
2 × 4 blocking
Top plate
Joist
Top plate
Joist
Wall stud Wall stud
Top plate
When a new wall is perpendicular to the ceiling or floor When a new wall falls between parallel joists, install 2 × 4
joists above, attach the top plate directly to the joists, using blocking between the joists every 24". If the new wall is
16d nails. aligned with a parallel joist, install blocks on both sides of the
wall, and attach the top plate to the joist (inset).
Wall Anatomy
Ceiling joists
Ceiling joists
Double top plate Single top plate
Wall studs Wall studs
Cutaway view Cutaway view
Load-bearing walls carry the structural weight of your Partition walls are interior walls that do not carry the structural
home. In platform-framed houses, load-bearing walls can weight of the house. They have a single top plate and can be
be identified by double top plates made from two layers of perpendicular to the floor and ceiling joists but are not aligned
framing lumber. Load-bearing walls include all exterior walls above support beams. Any interior wall that is parallel to floor
and any interior walls that are aligned above support beams. and ceiling joists is a partition wall.
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How to Build a Non-loadbearing Partition Wall
Mark the location of the new wall on
the ceiling, then snap two chalk lines
or use a scrap piece of 2× lumber as a
template to mark layout lines for the top
plate. Use a stud finder to locate floor
joists or roof framing above the ceiling,
and mark these locations with tick
marks or tape outside the layout lines.
1
2 3
Cut the top and sole plates to length Mark the location of any door framingking and lay them side by side. Use a speed on the top and sole plates. Refer to the square or framing square to draw pairs door’s rough opening specifications of lines across both plates to mark the when marking the layout. Draw lines for stud locations. Space the studs at 16” both the king and jack studs. intervals, on center.
5
OPTION: Rather than toe-nailing
the studs to the sole plate, Hang a plumb bob from the edge of
some builders prefer to attach the top plate at several points along its
them by face-nailing through length to find the sole plate location
the underside of the sole plate on the floor. The tip of the plumb bob
and into the bottom ends of the should almost touch the floor. Wait until
walls studs. Then, after the cap it stops moving before marking the
4 plate is installed on the ceiling, sole plate reference point. Connect the
they tip the wall up, nail the sole points with a line to establish one edge
plate in position, and then toe- of the sole plate. Use a piece of scrap
Fasten the top plate to the ceiling using
nail or toe-screw the studs to the 2× material as a template for marking
3" deck screws or 10d nails. Be sure
cap plate. the other edge.
to orient the plate so the stud layout
faces down. (continued)
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Measure the distance between the
top and sole plates at several places
along the wall to determine the stud
lengths. The stud length distance may
vary, depending on structural settling
or an out-of-flat floor. Add 1⁄8" to the
stud length(s), and cut them to size.
The extra length will ensure a snug fit
between the wall plates.
7
6
Drive the fasteners into the floor framing.
For concrete floors, attach the sole plate
8
with a powder-actuated nail gun or with
hardened masonry screws. Cut out and Fasten the end wall studs to adjoining
remove a section of sole plate in the walls. If the new studs do not fall at stud
door opening or openings, if any (see locations, you’ll need to install blocking
page 30). in the old walls (see page 19).
10 11
9
Nail the king studs, jack studs, a If building codes in your area require Drill holes through the studs to create
header, and a cripple stud in place fire blocking, install 2× cutoff scraps guide holes for wiring and plumbing.
to complete the rough door framing. between the studs, 4 ft. from the floor, When this work is completed, fasten
See page 29 for more information on to serve this purpose. Stagger the metal protector plates over these areas
framing a door opening. (Inset) An blocks so you can endnail each piece. to prevent drilling or nailing through
option for attaching wall studs to plates wiring and pipes later. Have your work
is to use metal connectors and 4d nails. inspected before proceeding with drywall.
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JOINING SECTIONS USING STEEL STUDS
Steel studs and tracks have the same basic structure—a
web that spans two flanged sides—but, studs also contain
a ¼" lip to improve their rigidity.
A
B
Join sections with a spliced joint (A) or notched joint (B).
Make a spliced joint by cutting a 2" slit in the web of one
track. Slip the other track into the slit and secure with a
screw. For a notched joint, cut back the flanges of one
track and taper the web so it fits into the other track;
secure with a screw.
A
B
Slip stud
Slip stud
Build corners using a slip stud: A slip stud is not fastened until the adjacent drywall is in place. Form L-shaped corners (A)
by overlapping the tracks. Cut off the flange on one side of one track, removing enough to allow room for the overlapping
track and drywall. Form a T-shaped corner (B) by leaving a gap between the tracks for the drywall. Secure each slip stud
by screwing through the stud into the tracks of the adjacent wall. Also screw through the back side of the drywall into the
slip stud, if possible. Where there’s no backing behind the slip stud, drive screws at a 45° angle through the back corners
of the slip stud and into the drywall.
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Building a Kneewall TOOLS & MATERIALS
Utility knife 10d nails or pneumatic
Tape measure framing nails
neewalls are shortened versions of conventional
K walls that usually stand three to four feet tall.
They typically fasten to an adjoining wall and tie into
Framing and
combination squares
Drywall
Wood casing material
it with matching base moldings. The top surface may Hammer or nail gun 6d finish nails or 16-gauge
be trimmed with a wood cap and moldings or simply Nailset pneumatic brad nails
wrapped with wallboard. Kneewalls can also be Drill/driver Deck screws
constructed from glass block for a more contemporary Construction adhesive
look or modified into a deeper built-in display case Level
or bookshelf. Drywall finishing tools Wallboard finishing
From a design standpoint, a kneewall helps to supplies
Framing lumber
divide a large room into smaller spaces without
losing the openness of a large space. A pair of
kneewalls can even provide an attractive entryway Kneewalls are straightforward projects that
into a living or dining room if the ends terminate require only basic wall-building skills. You can even
in matching posts. Depending on the house design, build the kneewall in the workshop and carry it to
these posts could serve a load-bearing purpose as the job site for installation. Unless you are building
well. Large bathrooms can benefit from a kneewall a kneewall with a load-bearing post or installing
that creates a modesty divider next to a toilet or wiring in it, there’s no need to get a permit or have the
bath changing area. project inspected.
How to Build a Kneewall
1
Option: If you cannot hit a wall stud, you’ll need to
remove the wallboard between two wall studs and
install blocking between them to bridge the cavity and
create an attachment point. See “Removing a Non-
loadbearing Wall,” page 38.
Mark the kneewall location on an adjacent wall. It
helps to position the kneewall in front of a wall stud for
convenient attachment. (continued)
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2
3
Mark the kneewall layout area on the floor with masking tape, Construct the kneewall frame from framing lumber. Build it
dark marker, or pencil lines. If the kneewall will be installed on with a top plate, sole plate, and studs, just as you would a
a carpeted floor, cut out the carpet and pad within the layout conventional wall. Space the studs 16" on center. Keep in
lines. Use a sharp chisel to remove the carpet tack strip mind that top and sole plates will add height to the kneewall.
against the wall. Carefully pry off the wall base molding; you Be sure to account for this when measuring the length of the
can reuse it if it doesn’t break. kneewall studs.
Set the kneewall frame in position and check it for
level. Shim beneath the sole plate, if necessary.
Fasten the kneewall to the adjacent wall stud with 3"
deck screws. Use shorter deck screws and a bead of
construction adhesive to fasten the sole plate to the
subflooring. Arrange the sole plate screws in a zigzag
pattern for added strength.
NOTE: If you’re installing a kneewall over ceramic
tile, drill pilot holes for attachment screws with a
masonry bit to prevent cracking the tile.
4
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Fasten drywall to the sides and end of the kneewall (and over Nail a wooden top cap to the kneewall top plate with 6d casing
the top if the project does not include a wooden top cap). Nail nails or brads. Size the cap so it overhangs the drywall and
strips of metal corner bead to the outside corners, then tape any moldings you plan to apply beneath it. Miter-cut these
and mud the corners and seams (see pages 59 to 83). Prime molding strips and install them beneath the top cap to hide
and paint the wall coverings. the drywall joint.
5
6
7 Cut and reinstall the moldings you removed earlier
on the existing wall. Then wrap the base of the
kneewall with mitered base moldings that match
the room moldings.
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Building a Wet Wall
wet wall is simply a wall
A that contains plumbing for
water supply and drainage. To
accommodate the drain and vent
pipes, which range from 1½ to
3 inches in diameter for branch
lines, the wall framing needs to be
built with 2 × 6 or larger dimensional
lumber. You can also attach furring
strips (usually 2 × 2) to existing 2 × 4
framing members to increase wall
thickness. The chart on the next page
describes how deeply you are allowed
to notch wall framing members under
various load conditions, as well as the
maximum-diameter holes you may
drill for running plumbing and wiring.
Building a new wet wall or
converting an existing wall to house
new plumbing requires a building
permit and an on-site inspection once
all of the hook-ups are made. Do not
install any wallcoverings until after
your plumbing and wiring have been
inspected and approved.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Circular saw Basic plumbing
Wrecking bar tools
or pry bar Reciprocating
Drill/driver saw
Caulk gun Protective plates
and adhesive Plumbing pipes
Hammer and hangers
8d common nails Dust mask
Masking tape Goggles
Hole saw Gloves
Jigsaw
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MAXIMUM HOLE & NOTCH CHART
FRAMING MEMBER MAXIMUM HOLE SIZE MAXIMUM NOTCH SIZE The framing member chart shows the maximum
2 × 4 loadbearing stud 1 ⁄16" diameter
7
⁄8" deep
7 sizes for holes and notches that can be cut into
studs and joists when running pipes. Where
2 × 4 non-loadbearing stud 2½" diameter 1 ⁄16" deep
7
possible, use notches rather than bored holes,
2 × 6 loadbearing stud 2¼" diameter 13⁄8" deep because pipe installation is usually easier. When
boring holes, there must be at least 5⁄8" of wood
2 × 6 non-loadbearing stud 35⁄16" diameter 23⁄16" deep
between the edge of a stud and the hole, and at least
2 × 6 joists 1½" diameter ⁄8" deep
7
2" between the edge of a joist and the hole. Joists
2 × 8 joists 23⁄8" diameter 1¼" deep can be notched only in the end 1⁄3 of the overall
span; never in the middle 1⁄3 of the joist. When two
2 × 10 joists 3 ⁄16" diameter
1
1½" deep
pipes are run through a stud, the pipes should be
2 × 12 joists 3¾" diameter 17⁄8" deep stacked one over the other, never side by side.
SIZING FOR WATER DISTRIBUTION PIPES
FIXTURE UNIT RATING SIZE OF MAXIMUM LENGTH (FT.)—
SIZE OF TOTAL FIXTURE UNITS
Toilet 3 SERVICE PIPE
DISTRIBUTION PIPE
FROM STREET
Vanity sink 1 FROM WATER METER 40 60 80 100 150 200
Shower 2 3
⁄4" 1
⁄2" 9 8 7 6 5 4
Bathtub 2 3
⁄4" 3
⁄4" 27 23 19 17 14 11
Dishwasher 2 3
⁄4" 1" 44 40 36 33 28 23
Kitchen sink 2 1" 1" 60 47 41 36 30 25
Clothes washer 2 1" 11⁄4" 102 87 76 67 52 44
Utility sink 2
Sillcock 3
Water distribution pipes are the main pipes extending from the water meter throughout the house, supplying water to the
branch pipes leading to individual fixtures. To determine the size of the distribution pipes, you must first calculate the total
demand in “fixture units” (above, left) and the overall length of the water supply lines, from the street hookup through the
water meter and to the most distant fixture in the house. Then, use the second table (above, right) to calculate the minimum
size for the water distribution pipes.
SIZES FOR BRANCH PIPES & SUPPLY TUBES
FIXTURE MIN. BRANCH PIPE SIZE MIN. SUPPLY TUBE SIZE PIPE SUPPORT INTERVALS
Toilet 1
⁄2" ⁄8"
3
TYPE VERTICAL-RUN HORIZONTAL-RUN
OF SUPPORT SUPPORT
Vanity sink 1
⁄2" ⁄8"
3
PIPE INTERVAL INTERVAL
Shower 1
⁄2" ⁄2"
1
Copper 10 ft. 6 ft.
Bathtub 1
⁄2" ⁄2"
1
PEX 5 ft. 3 ft.
Dishwasher 1
⁄2" ⁄2"
1
CPVC 10 ft. 3 ft.
Kitchen sink 1
⁄2" ⁄2"
1
PVC 10 ft. 4 ft.
Clothes washer 1
⁄2" ⁄2"
1
Steel 12 ft. 10 ft.
Utility sink 1
⁄2" ⁄2"
1
Iron 15 ft. 5 ft.
Sillcock 3
⁄4" N.A.
Water heater 3
⁄4" N.A.
Branch pipes are the water supply lines that run from the Minimum intervals for supporting pipes are determined by the
distribution pipes toward the individual fixtures. Supply type of pipe and its orientation in the system. Remember that
tubes are the vinyl, chromed copper, or braided tubes that the measurements shown above are minimum requirements.
carry water from the branch pipes to the fixtures.
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How to Build & Plumb a Wet Wall
Clear the work
area. If you are
remodeling an 1
existing wall to
contain plumbing
for a new kitchen
or bathroom,
you’ll need
to completely
remove the wall
coverings so you
can fur out the
wall studs. This
project requires
a building permit
and at least one
on-site inspection.
Shut off power at
the main service
panel before
cutting into walls.
3
Begin removing wallcoverings
on the entire wall. There are
many ways to go about this.
One is to set your circular
saw to a cutting depth equal
to the wallcovering thickness
and make a few starter cuts.
Remove any cover plates on
the wall before you start.
2
4
Next, use a wrecking bar to pry the Remove old drywall screws or nails that
wallcovering loose. Work in sections that remain in the wall-framing members.
are large, but manageable. Discard the
material you remove immediately.
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6
5
Cut 2 × 2 furring strips to length. Start with the sole plate of Attach the furring strips to the wall framing members with 8d
the wall. Apply a bead of construction adhesive to the 2 × 2. finish or casing nails. Drive a nail every 12 to 16 inches.
8
7
Install the vertical furring strips next, using nails and If you are installing a drain for a tub or shower, mark out the
construction adhesive. Finally, attach furring strips to the wall location of the drain onto the subfloor. Remove floorcoverings
cap plate. Re-route wiring in the wall according to your plan. first. Mark a center point for the drainage pipe onto the sole
If you are keeping receptacles or switches in the same place, plate. The pipe should align with the location for the drain trap.
you’ll still need to move the boxes forward in the wall cavity so If your plan calls for it, drill additional holes for fixture drains,
the edges will be flush with the new wall surface. such as the wall sink stub-out being installed in this wall.
Feed sections of
drain pipe up through
10 the holes in the sole
plate and floor (if you
are tying in to the
plumbing on the floor
below—the easiest
way to tap into the
existing plumbing
system). Connect
the drain line to
a drainage stack,
maintaining a slope of
9 at least ¼" per ft. It is
always a good idea to
include a cleanout on
Drill holes for the drain pipes using a hole saw that’s slightly the new branch line.
larger than the outside diameter of the new pipe. In most
cases, a 2"-diameter pipe is adequate for this type of
branch drain (see table, page 23), so a 2½" hole saw is a
good choice. (continued)
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12
11
Cut notches in the wall-framing members to hold the horizontal Cut the horizontal lines to length and set them into the
plumbing in the drain lines. See chart on page 23. Cut no notches. You can hold them in place with tape if they don’t
deeper than needed to hold the pipes. stay put.
13
14
Attach a 90° elbow to the end of the new horizontal line so it With the drain pipes seated in the fitting below the floor (but
aligns with the drain pipe coming up through the floor. The not cemented), mark the free ends of the vertical pipes for
other end of horizontal pipe is fitted with a tee fitting so the vent cutting at the points where they will join the fittings on the
line can be extended up through the cap plate and ceiling. horizontal line. Dry-fit this union. Do not cement yet.
16
15
Remove the subfloor in the section you’ve laid out for the Reach into the hole in the subfloor and mark the vertical pipe
drain. Cut with a jigsaw, using a starter hole if you need to. If for cutting to accept a tee fitting. The tee should have a slight
you’ve planned the drain location wisely it will not fall over a sweep downward. Normally, the open end of the tee is sized
floor joist. for a 1½"-diameter drain tube to run from the vertical drain
line to the drain trap.
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18
17
Remove the drain pipes and cut them to the lengths Cement the reducing tee into the drain line for the tub, making
you’ve marked. sure to orient the sweep correctly and to align the opening
with the drain trap location.
Cement a reducing tee
into the drain line for
the sink stub-out.
20
Cement the drain lines into the drain fittings from below.
Solvent-cement the brand drain line components on the floor
19 below, tying the line into the main drain stack or another large
branch drain.
Install cold and hot water supply lines,
connecting from the floor below.
23
22
21 Solder supply stub-outs onto the new
water lines. Install protective metal
Connect the vent pipe from the wet wall plates on the wall studs to cover pipe
with another vent line in the attic or, if (and electrical cable) penetrations.
you prefer, run it out through the roof Have your work inspected and, when
and flash and cover it according to your approved, you may go ahead and
local plumbing codes. install wallcoverings.
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Installing Interior Doors
reating an opening for a door in a wall involves building a framework
C about 1 inch wider and ½ inch taller than the door’s jamb frame. This
oversized opening, called a rough opening, will enable you to position
TOOLS & MATERIALS
the door easily and shim it plumb and level. Before framing a door, Tape measure
it’s always a good idea to buy the door and refer to the manufacturer’s Framing square
recommendations for rough opening size. Hammer or nail gun
Door frames consist of a pair of full-length king studs and two shorter Handsaw or reciprocating saw
jack studs that support the header above the door. A header provides an
attachment point for wallboard and door casings. On load-bearing walls, Framing lumber
it also helps to transfer the building’s structural loads from above down 10d or pneumatic framing nails
into the wall framework and eventually the foundation. ½" plywood
Door framing requires flat, straight, and dry framing lumber, so (for structural headers)
choose your king, jack, and header pieces carefully. Sight down the edges Construction adhesive
and ends to look for warpage, and cut off the ends of pieces with splits.
Creating a square, properly sized
opening for a door is the most
important element of a successful
door installation project.
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How to Frame a Rough Opening for an Interior Prehung Door
Door frames for prehung doors (left)
Top plate start with king studs that attach to the
top and bottom plates. Inside the king
studs, jack studs support the header
at the top of the opening. Cripple
studs continue the wall-stud layout
above the opening. In non-loadbearing
Header walls, the header may be a 2 × 4 laid
flat or a built-up header (below). The
dimensions of the framed opening are
Cripple stud referred to as the rough opening.
King stud
Built-up header
Construction adhesive
Jack stud 2×
½" plywood
2×
Bottom plate
Door unit width
To mark the layout for the door frame,
Extra ½" Extra ½" measure the width of the door unit
along the bottom. Add 1" to this
dimension to determine the width of the
rough opening (the distance between
the jack studs). This gives you a ½"
Jack stud marking Jack stud marking gap on each side for adjusting the door
frame during installation. Mark the
King stud marking King stud marking top and bottom plates for the jack and
king studs.
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How to Frame a Prehung Interior Door Opening (Load-bearing)
Door framing on load-bearing walls Cut the jack studs to length (they should
will require a structural header that rest on the sole plate). The height of a
transfers loads above the wall into 2 jack stud for a standard interior door is
the jack studs, sole plate, and down 83½", or ½" taller than the door. Nail
into the house foundation. Build it by the jack studs to the king studs.
sandwiching a piece of 3⁄8" plywood
between two 2 × 4s. Use construction
adhesive and nails to fasten the 3
header together.
King stud
1
Jack stud
Mark layout lines for the king and
jack studs on the wall’s top and sole
plates (see page 29). Cut the king
studs slightly longer than the distance
between the wall plates, and toenail
them in place with 10d nails or 3"
pneumatic nails.
4 5
6
Install the built-up header by resting Fasten a cripple stud above the header Cut a sole plate opening for the door with
it on the jack studs and endnailing halfway between the king studs for use a reciprocating saw or handsaw. Trim the
through the king studs. Use 10d nails as a nailing surface. sole plate flush with the jack studs. Install
or 3" pneumatic nails. the saw blade teeth-up for better access.
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How to Frame an Opening for a Non-loadbearing Wall
VARIATION: In a non-loadbearing wall, the header can be a piece of 2× framing lumber that lays flat on top of the jack
studs. Cut it to length, and install by endnailing through the king studs or down into the jack studs. Toenail a cripple stud
between the top plate and header, halfway between the king studs. It transfers structural loads into the header.
OPTION: FRAMING OPENINGS FOR SLIDING & FOLDING DOORS
The same basic framing techniques are used, whether you’re planning to install a Most bifold doors are designed to
sliding, bifold, pocket, or prehung interior door. The different door styles require fit in an 80"-high finished opening.
different frame openings. You may need to frame an opening two to three times wider Wood bifold doors have the
than the opening for a standard prehung door. Purchase the doors and hardware advantage of allowing you to trim the
in advance, and consult the hardware manufacturer’s instructions for the exact doors, if necessary, to fit openings
dimensions of the rough opening and header size for the type of door you select. that are slightly shorter.
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Installing a Prehung Interior Door
Install prehung interior doors after the framing work
is complete and the drywall has been installed. If
the rough opening for the door has been framed
accurately, installing the door takes about an hour.
Standard prehung doors have 4½-inch-wide jambs
and are sized to fit walls with 2 × 4 construction and
½-inch wallboard. If you have 2 × 6 construction or
thicker wall surface material, you can special order a
door to match, or you can add jamb extensions to a
standard-sized door (photo, below).
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Level Prehung interior door
Hammer Wood shims
Handsaw 8d casing nails
TIP: JAMB EXTENSIONS
Jamb extension
If your walls are built with 2 × 6 studs, you’ll need to
extend the jambs by attaching wood strips to the edges
of the jamb after the door is installed. Use glue and 4d
casing nails when attaching jamb extensions.
j
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How to Install a Prehung Interior Door
Insert pairs of wood shims driven
from opposite directions into the gap
1 between the framing members and the 3
hinge-side jamb, spaced every 12".
Check the hinge-side jamb to make
sure it is still plumb and does not bow.
2
Slide the door unit into the framed Anchor the hinge-side jamb with 8d
opening so the edges of the jambs casing nails driven through the jamb
are flush with the wall surface and the and shims and into the jack stud.
hinge-side jamb is plumb.
4
5
Cut the shims flush with the wall surface, using a
handsaw. Hold the saw vertically to prevent damage to
the door jamb or wall. Finish the door and install the
Insert pairs of shims in the gap between the framing members
lockset as directed by the manufacturer. See pages
and the latch-side jamb and top jamb, spaced every 12". With
244 to 255 to install trim around the door.
the door closed, adjust the shims so the gap between door
edge and jamb is 1⁄8" wide. Drive 8d casing nails through the
jambs and shims, into the framing members.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Tape measure Framing materials
Plumb bob 10d nails (coated if using
Combination square treated lumber)
or pneumatic
Framing Basement Powder-actuated nailer
or hammer drill
framing nails
Foundation Walls Pneumatic nailer
or hammer
PAT fasteners
or masonry screws
Rolled insulation
Miter saw or circular saw
6-mil vapor barrier
ou can use conventional wall-framing techniques Staple gun
Y to turn an unused basement into a warm,
inviting living space. Stud walls provide deep bays for
Utility knife
Moisture-resistant
wallboard
Drywall finishing tools
insulation and allow you to use ordinary receptacle
boxes for wall outlets. Fully framed walls will be
stronger than the furring strip method discussed on Assembling a stud wall next to a foundation wall
pages 102 to 103, and they may be your only option is essentially the same process as building a wall
if your basement walls aren’t flat and plumb. The elsewhere. However, since there’s always the potential
downside to framing your basement walls is that the for water infiltration through cinder block or poured
material costs will be greater than using furring strips basement walls, it’s a good idea to build your walls
and foam insulation. Stud walls will also reduce the about ½" away from the foundation to create an
size of the room, which may be an issue if you have a airspace. This gap will also be useful for avoiding any
small basement. unevenness in your foundation walls.
How to Frame a Basement Foundation Wall
Fasten the top plate to the floor joists
using 3" deck screws or 10d nails (top).
1 Be sure to orient the plate so the stud
layout faces down. Attach the sole plate
to the concrete floor with a powder-
actuated nailer (lower) or with hardened
masonry screws. Drill pilot holes for the
screws with a hammer drill.
2
Mark the location of the new wall on Hang a plumb bob from the top plate
the floor joists above, then use a scrap layout lines to mark the sole plate
piece of 2 × 4 as a template to draw position on the floor. Move the bob along
layout lines for the new top plate. the top plate and mark the sole plate at
Position the top plate about ½" away several points on the floor. Set a piece
from the foundation wall to create an of scrap 2 × 4 in place on the floor to
airspace. If the joists run parallel to the make sure the sole plate will still allow
foundation wall, nail blocking between for an air gap. Draw pairs of lines across
them to create attachment points for both plates with a combination square 3
the new wall. to mark stud locations.
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Toenail the studs in place. Add framing
around any basement windows and
4 install fire blocking if local codes
require it.
5
6
Measure the distance between the top Drill holes through the studs to create
and sole plates at several places along raceways for wiring and plumbing.
the wall to determine the stud lengths. Install these systems and fasten metal
The stud length distance may vary, protector plates over these areas to
depending on structural settling or an prevent drilling or nailing through
out-of-flat floor. Add 1⁄8" to the stud wiring and pipes later. Have your work
length(s), and cut them to size. inspected before proceeding with
insulation and wallboard.
Staple 6-mil plastic sheeting to the wall
studs to form a vapor barrier behind the
finished wall. Cut holes in the plastic for
receptacle openings.
NOTE: There is considerable debate over
whether or not you should employ a
vapor barrier on a basement wall, mostly
because the barrier can trap water that
enters from the exterior. Check with
your local building inspector.
8
7 9
Install rolled insulation in the stud bays. Install your wallcovering of choice. If
Using plastic encapsulated insulation you choose drywall, finish the seams
is a good preventive measure against with drywall compound and tape as
mold growth. Otherwise, use kraft- usual. Be sure to use moisture-resistant
faced insulation. drywall for basement walls (some
new drywall products are also mold-
and mildew-resistant—ask at your
building center).
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How to Frame Soffits and Chases
2
1
Build another square framework on the floor that matches the
Install 2 × 4 blocking between floor joists to form a
size of the top frame. Make this frame from treated lumber,
square framework around the obstruction. Use 3"
and fasten it to the concrete with a powder-actuated nailer or
deck screws to fasten the framework in place.
a hammer drill and masonry screws. Hang a plumb bob down
from the top frame to find the exact location of this bottom
frame before attaching it.
4
3
Toenail four 2 × 4
studs between
the two frames
to complete the
chase framework. If the chase encloses a DWV stack or other plumbing with
Finish the chase valves or cleanouts, be sure to build an access panel in the
with drywall, chase to keep these areas accessible. Use furring strips
metal corner or plywood behind two sides of the access opening to
bead, and drywall form tabs that hold the access panel in place. Attach the
compound. panel with screws, and glue on decorative trim to hide the
drywall edges.
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WHERE TO USE A SOFFIT
Wall stud
Air duct
Recessed lighting fixture
Fireblocking
Soffit frame
Hide immovable obstructions in a soffit built from dimension lumber or steel and covered with drywall or other finish
material. An extra-wide soffit is also a great place to install recessed lighting fixtures.
How to Frame a Furnace Duct
Set the frames against the sides of the
duct, and fasten them to the floor joists
1 above with 3" deck screws.
3
Build a pair of ladder-like frames that Install 2 × 2 crosspieces between the
match the side dimensions of the frames to provide attachment points
furnace duct from standard 2 × 2s. below the duct for drywall. Then finish
Fasten the parts together with 3" 2 the soffit with drywall, metal corner
deck screws. bead, and drywall compound.
FRAMING WALLS 37
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Removing a
Non-loadbearing Wall
emoving an existing interior wall is an easy way
R to create more usable space without the expense
of building an addition. Removing a wall turns two
small rooms into a large space perfect for family living.
Adding new walls in a larger area creates a private
space to use as a quiet study or as a new bedroom.
Be sure the wall you plan to remove is not load-
bearing before you begin (see page 14). If you need to
remove a load-bearing wall, check with a contractor
or building inspector first. Load-bearing walls carry
the weight of the structure above them. You’ll need to
install a temporary support wall to take the place of TOOLS & MATERIALS
the structural wall you’re removing.
Remember that walls also hold the essential Stud finder Pry bars
mechanical systems that run through your home. Tape measure Reciprocating
You need to consider how your project affects these Utility knife or circular saw
mechanicals. Turn off electrical power at the service Hammer Drill
panel before you begin demolition.
How to Remove a Non-loadbearing Wall
1 3
2
Use a utility knife to score the Use the side of a hammer to punch a Reroute outlets, switches, plumbing, or
intersections where the wall you’re starter hole in the drywall, then carefully ductwork. Have professionals do this
removing meets the ceiling to keep remove the drywall with a pry bar. Try for you if you are not experienced with
from damaging it during wall removal. to pull off large sections at a time to these systems or confident in your
Pry away baseboard trim and remove minimize dust. Remove any remaining skills. This work should be inspected
receptacle plates and switch covers to drywall nails or screws from the after it is completed.
prepare for demolition. wall studs.
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5 6
4
Locate the closest permanent studs on Remove the wall studs by cutting Cut through the wall’s top plate with a
the adjacent wall or walls with a stud through them in the middle with a circular saw or reciprocating saw. Pry
finder, and carefully remove the drywall reciprocating saw and prying out the out the top plate sections carefully to
up to these studs. Score the drywall upper and lower sections. Remove the avoid damaging the ceiling.
first with a utility knife, then cut through endmost studs where the wall meets an
it with a circular saw. adjacent wall or walls.
8
7
Remove the sole plate just as you did the top plate by cutting Patch the walls and ceiling with strips of drywall, and repair
through it and prying up the long pieces. the floor as needed with new floor coverings.
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Drywall Materials
& Equipment
successful drywalling job depends heavily on
A selecting the best materials and equipment for
the task. The process starts with the drywall panels
themselves. Not only is choosing the right panel type
for your application important to get good results, it
can mean the difference between passing a building
inspection and having to tear out your work and start
over. Contact your local building department early on
in the planning stage to get information relevant to
your job. Of most concern to building departments
are ceilings and firewalls that separate distinct parts
of the house—the wall between a house and an
attached garage is a typical example—because these
areas must meet strict fire code standards.
Another factor to consider when choosing
materials is moisture. If the room you’re working on
is in a high-moisture environment, use panels that
resist moisture damage and mold. You may also need
special seaming, taping, and mudding products. The
information that follows provides a comprehensive
guide to help you make these decisions.
Although you can hang drywall using only a
hammer and a utility knife, good tools make the job
go faster and yield better results. From professional
drywall guns with self-feed screws to laser levels, joint
compound paddles, and hoppers for applying textured
finishes, this chapter provides a comprehensive guide
to tools that can be used in any phase of the process.
In this chapter:
• Drywall Panel Types
• Fasteners, Adhesives & Caulks
• Finishing Materials
• Drywall Tools & Equipment
DRYWALL MATERIALS & EQUIPMENT 41
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Drywall Panel Types
p until the 1930s, interior walls were created by
U troweling wet plaster onto wood or metal lath
that had been nailed to the wall framing members.
The finished wall required three coats of plaster, each
of which had to be permitted to dry or set. The first
generation of drywall panels replaced the lath and
the heavy “scratch” coat of plaster. Today, even when
a traditional plaster wall finish is desired, special
blue-papered drywall panels are anchored to the
framing to form the base of the wall instead of a hand-
troweled scratch coat. This reduces labor and drying
time greatly. Since the end of World War II, the typical
drywall panel wall requires no finish layer of plaster.
Only minor surface corrections are required, including
the filling of seams and covering of fastener dimples
with joint compound. Eliminating hand-troweled
finishes saves time, labor, and money.
Drywall usually consists of a strong paper skin
adhered to a gypsum core. The finish-ready face
paper wraps around to the back of the panel at the
sides, where it overlaps the coarser, more rigid paper
used on the back. For handling purposes, sheets of
drywall are joined at the ends by removable strips
of tape. To facilitate finishing, panels are typically
tapered at the long edges. The shallow depression
formed where panels meet is easily covered with tape
Drywall is a broad category of building materials that covers
and filled with joint compound for a flat surface that many types of panels with various purposes, including
appears continuous. The short, butt-end joints are not common gypsum-based wallcovering panels as well as
recessed and are more challenging to finish. specialty wallcoverings and tile backers.
GYPSUM
Gypsum is a naturally occurring crystal mined from
the earth. It is formed when calcium sulfate chemically
combines with water. The scrubbers that neutralize Piles of mined
sulfuric acid emitted from power plants also create gypsum await
processing
gypsum synthetically. Today much of our gypsum drywall
into the basic
is a byproduct of this effort to protect the environment
constituent
from acid rain. When buildings burn, the water is driven material used to
out of gypsum crystals in drywall, producing steam. This make drywall.
characteristic makes gypsum a fire suppressant, though
eventually the dehydrated gypsum will collapse.
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Types of Panels
Standard drywall is used for most Flexible drywall, specially made for Fire-resistant drywall has a dense, fiber-
walls and ceilings in dry, interior curved walls, is a bendable version of reinforced core that helps contain fire.
areas. It comes in 4-ft.-wide panels in standard ¼"-thick drywall. It can be Thicknesses are ½", 5⁄8", and ¾". Most
lengths ranging from 8 to 16 ft. and installed dry or dampened with water to fire-resistant drywall is called “Type X.”
in thicknesses of ¼", 3⁄8", ½", and 5⁄8". increase its flexibility. Fire-resistant panels are generally
There are also 54"-wide panels for required in attached garages, on walls
horizontal installations on walls with adjacent to garages, and in furnace and
9-ft. ceilings. utility rooms.
Moisture-resistant drywall, commonly Abuse-resistant drywall withstands Decorative drywall products include
called “greenboard” for the color of surface impacts and resists prefinished vinyl-coated panel
its face paper, is designed for areas of penetrations better than standard systems, decorative corner treatments,
high-humidity. It is no longer allowed as drywall. It’s available in ½" regular and prefabricated arches, and drywall
a backer for tub and shower surrounds. 5
⁄8" fire-resistant types. panels that look like traditional raised-
panel paneling.
Sound-resistant drywall products have Plaster-base drywall, sometimes called Mold-resistant drywall is a specialty
up to eight times as much sound- “blueboard,” is used with veneer plaster board designed for areas that are
deadening capability as standard systems instead of a traditional hand- regularly damp, have high humidity, or
drywall. These products are good for troweled scratch coat. Panels have two that are otherwise susceptible to mold
home theaters. layers of paper—a blue-colored face and mildew growth.
paper that’s highly absorptive over a
moisture-resistant paper to protect the
gypsum core.
DRYWALL MATERIALS & EQUIPMENT 43
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TILE BACKER
If you’re planning to tile new walls in wet areas, such as
tub and shower enclosures, use tile backer board as a
substrate rather than drywall. Unlike drywall, tile backer
won’t break down—and ruin the tile job—if water gets
behind the tile. There are three basic types of tile backer
(see page 267 for supplier information). Cementboard
Cementboard is made from Portland cement and sand
reinforced by a continuous outer layer of fiberglass mesh.
It’s available in 5⁄16", ½", and 5⁄8" thicknesses. See page 84
Fiber-cement board
to 85 for installation instructions.
Fiber-cement board is similar to cementboard but is
somewhat lighter, with fiber reinforcement integrated
throughout the panel material. It comes in ¼" and ½" Dens-Shield
thicknesses. Cementboard and fiber-cement board cannot
be damaged by water, but water can pass through them.
To prevent damage to the framing, install a water barrier of
4-mil plastic or 15# building paper behind the backer.
Dens-Shield®, commonly called glass mat, is a water-
resistant gypsum board with a waterproof fiberglass facing.
Dens-Shield cuts and installs much like standard drywall
but requires galvanized screws to prevent corrosion.
Because the front surface provides the water barrier,
all untaped joints and penetrations must be sealed with
caulk before the tile is installed. Do not use a water barrier
behind Dens-Shield.
TIP
Pre-bowing panels helps ensure a tight seal with the framing when using adhesives. The day before installation, stack
panels face up, supporting each end with a pair of 2 × 4s. This helps create pressure between the panel and the studs as
the memory of the panel tries to revert to the bowed shape.
44 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO WALLS & CEILINGS
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Using Specialized Drywall Panels
Upgrade to thicker 5⁄8" panels to achieve greater sag resistance Flexible ¼" panels can be bent in a tight radius and applied
on ceilings with 24" joist spacing or when a finish coat of two-layers thick on curved walls. Regular ¼" and 3⁄8" panels
water-based texture will be applied. The greater thickness can be attached directly over damaged wall surfaces
also improves fire- and sound-transmission ratings. Look for in remodel and repair work. They also bend well when
Type X drywall. dampened. The 3⁄8" panels may also be used in double-layer
applications or in a single layer under paneling.
Scratch pass
Greenboard panels hold up well under damp conditions in Plaster-base panels are used when a tough plaster surface
bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms, although they do is needed to match traditional lath and plaster walls.
require closer joist spacing on ceilings. The composition of Plaster-base panels can be attached to the wall or ceiling
the panel is the same as standard drywall, but the paper framing. The special blue paper face allows a strong adhesion
is replaced with vinyl facing to repel moisture. For wet with the gypsum plaster while protecting the gypsum core
areas behind tile or shower and tub surround, use a tile from moisture damage as the plaster dries.
backerboard like Dens-Shield or cementboard.
DRYWALL MATERIALS & EQUIPMENT 45
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Fasteners, Adhesives & Caulks
rywall is best fastened with drywall screws— Special screws are made for other non-drywall
D typically black phosphate-coated, coarse-threaded
screws that are 1¼ inches long. Until the rise of the
panels. Cementboard is best fastened with
cementboard screws that self-tap into the hard
countersinking screwgun, drywall was installed with cementboard surface and then resist corrosion in
hammers and ring-shank drywall nails. Nails still have the damp, alkaline environment. Use fine threads for
some uses: for example, the initial securing of hard-to- steel framing and coarse threads for wood framing.
reach portions of wall and ceiling panels. Nails are also Hot-dipped galvanized roofing nails may also be
often used for securing metal corner bead because they used to secure cementboard and other tile backers to
create less distortion of the bead than an over-driven wood framing.
screw. Ring-shank drywall nails should penetrate framing Some drywall installations also call for the use of
by at least ¾ inch. Nails cannot be used with metal wall adhesives. Ordinary joint compound can function
studs and framing. Because screws hold drywall more as an adhesive when applied between drywall layers
securely than nails, you may employ greater fastener in a two-layer wall. Panel adhesive may be used A
spacing with them (see table on page 73). to laminate drywall panels also. Panel adhesive
Drywall screws are categorized by letters, indicating applied to studs or joists can reduce fastener needs
the type of framing they are best suited to be used with. by 75 percent and eliminate the possibility of panels
For wood framing, select Type W screws that penetrate rattling. A spray-on adhesive is used to attach vinyl
the framing by at least ⅝ inch. For steel framing or to corner bead to drywall.
secure gypsum panels to resilient channels, use fine- Acoustical sealant (caulk) fills openings and cracks
threaded Type S screws that penetrate the metal by at that let sound through walls and ceilings and helps
least ⅜ inch. Use drill-point Type S screws for heavy- isolate drywall panels from the vibration of adjacent
gauge steel. To screw gypsum to gypsum in double surfaces. Used around electric boxes and floor-to-wall
layers until an adhesive sets, use course threaded Type seams, it’s the least expensive way to improve sound-
G screws. Alternatively, use longer Type S or W screws transmission class ratings. It can also reduce heating
to attach panels to the framing. and cooling needs by blocking air gaps.
Drywall screws
are the fastener
of choice for
hanging drywall
on walls and
ceilings, largely
because they grip
better, are more
controllable, and
don’t pop out like
nails can. Many
pros still use
nails, however,
to tack panels
into place prior
to screwing.
46
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Fastening Drywall Panels
Drywall fasteners include: Type W for screwing panels to wood framing (A); Type G
for drawing panels together in multilayer installations (B); Trimhead drywall screws
for fastening wood trim to metal studs (C); Type S standard (D) and Self-tapping (E)
for attaching panels to steel framing; Cementboard screws (F); Ring-shank drywall
nails (G); and Smooth drywall nails (H).
Drywall screwheads and nail heads are
shaped to provide maximum holding
power for the panel without tearing
the facing paper. Screws have a bugle
head that preserves the paper integrity
as long as the screw is not overdriven.
The undersides of the nail heads have
A B C D E F G H
slight, smooth tapers so the heads may
be countersunk without tearing through
the paper.
DRYWALL ADHESIVES
Adhesives can be used in drywall installation and offer
a number of benefits: They create a much stronger
bond between framing and panels, reduce the number A
of fasteners needed by up to 75 percent, and can
bridge minor irregularities in framing members. There
are several types of adhesives and caulks used for
installing drywall:
B
Construction adhesive is used with screws for gluing
panels directly to framing or a solid base, such as
concrete basement walls.
Panel or laminating adhesive is used for gluing drywall C
panels to other panels in multi-layer installations,
or to bond panels with concrete walls or rigid foam
insulation. A few Type G drywall screws may be needed D
to support panels while the adhesive sets up.
Contact cement is used for attaching other coverings
to drywall panels, such as mass-loaded vinyl sheeting
for soundproofing.
Adhesives useful for installing and finishing drywall include:
Acoustical sealant, while not an adhesive, is used spray-on adhesive (A) for attaching corner bead; acoustical
during multiple layer installations to seal all gaps sealant (B) for filling gaps around panel perimeters in
around the perimeter of installed panels and along multi-layer installations; and panel adhesive (C) and
corners, ceilings, and floors. Acoustical sealant comes construction adhesive (D) for bonding panels to framing
in a tube and is applied with a caulk gun. members or other panels.
DRYWALL MATERIALS & EQUIPMENT 47
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Finishing Materials
inishing drywall is the more difficult part of tape is combined with joint compound to create a
F surfacing walls and ceilings, but it’s a project well
within the ability of a DIY homeowner. Armed with a
permanent layer that covers the drywall seams as
well as small holes and gaps. Without tape, thick
basic understanding of the variety of finish materials applications of compound are highly prone to
available, you’ll be able to walk out of your local home cracking. There are two types of joint tape: paper
center or drywall supplier with the exact supplies you and self-adhesive fiberglass mesh. Joint compound,
need to cover all joints, corners, and fasteners for a commonly called “mud,” seals and levels all seams,
successful drywall project. corners, and depressions in a drywall installation.
The primary materials used in finishing are It’s also used for skim coating and some texturing
corner bead, tape, and joint compound. Corner treatments. There are several types of compounds,
bead is the angle strip—usually made of metal with important differences among them, but the two
or vinyl—that covers a drywall corner, creating a main forms are used for setting and drying (setting-
straight, durable edge where walls intersect. Joint type and drying-type).
ESTIMATING MATERIALS
The following tips will help you determine how much of Compound: The following are estimates. Check with the
each material you will need for your project. Add 10 to manufacturer for actual coverage information. For every
15 percent to your estimate to cover waste and mistakes. 100 square feet of drywall, you’ll need approximately:
Corner Bead: Count the number of corners and the • 1 gallon of pre-mixed, drying-type compound (taping,
lengths of each, and purchase enough bead to cover each topping, and all purpose)
in one piece. Beads are available in standard lengths of
• 8 lbs. of powder drying-type compound
8 to 10 feet.
• 7½ lbs. of standard powder setting-type compound
Joint Tape: Approximately 375 feet of tape will finish
1000 square feet of drywall. • 5½ lbs. of lightweight powder setting-type compound
Materials for
finishing your
drywall-coated
wall include: bead
and tape (for
covering corners
and seams),
joint compound
(for covering
dimples, dents,
bead, and tape)
and texturing
materials (for
creating a spray-
texture surface).
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Corner Bead
Corners, seams, and edges of drywall should not be Off-angle corner bead comes in rolls or straight
left unprotected. Instead, apply preformed corner lengths and features a flexible center. Some have a
strips (called bead) or pre-seamed tape to make a raised ridge that, when facing out, may be used for
crisp edge and protect the drywall from damage. A outside corners. Others have a rubberized center to
90° inside corner is usually finished with drywall joint allow for movement as the house settles.
tape, but outside and off-angle inside corners are best Bullnose outside-corner bead and inner-
finished with corner beads. cove bead leave a curved corner. Outside
Metal corner bead is a rigid, tough corner bead bullnose corners require that the drywall not
that’s installed with drywall nails or screws driven overlap at the corner to leave room for the
through the drywall and into the framing. It also may radius corner.
be installed with a crimping tool. Corner bead for arches has one edge cut into
Vinyl outside corner bead is applied with staples segments for bending along an arch.
or a spray-on adhesive. J-bead and L-bead are attached to the edges
Paper-faced metal or plastic corner bead is of drywall that are left open or that meet a non-
embedded in joint compound on outside corners. drywall surface, such as wood or brick. J-bead must
No fasteners are needed but a special roller tool is be installed before the drywall panel is fastened at
recommended to bed the legs properly. the finished edge. L-bead may come with a tear-
Off-angle corner bead makes inside and outside away masking strip to protect adjacent surfaces
corners greater than 90° much easier to finish. while finishing.
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
Corner bead options include: bullnose and inner-cove corner beads (A); off-angle corner beads for inside or outside corners (B);
paper-faced metal or plastic outside corner bead (C); metal outside corner bead (D); corner bead for arches (E); L-bead (F);
vinyl outside corner bead (G); and J-bead (H).
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Joint Tape & Compound
Made of paper or fiberglass mesh, joint tape is sold be well-mixed, as any lumps will affect the finished
in rolls usually 75 or 150 feet long. Paper tape makes surface and make it very difficult to smooth out
crisper inside corners because it is pre-creased the mud. Unlike premixed compound, setting-type
lengthwise. It is also resistant to accidental cutting compound hardens in the bucket if it sits longer than
with a taping knife. The self-adhesive, fiberglass-mesh the set time, and even “easy sand” varieties resist
tape applies easily to flat joints and does not need sanding more than drying-type compounds. Set times
to be set into a joint compound bed (whereas paper of compounds vary from forty-five minutes to as
tape must be). Fiberglass mesh tape works better for much as six hours. They harden by chemical reaction.
making quick repairs. Drying-type joint compounds come premixed
Joint compound is used as both a bonding in one- and five-gallon tubs. They set by drying
agent and filler. It goes on smoothly, dries hard, and are not as strong or fast-setting as setting-type
and sands easily (albeit with much dust). It is sold compounds. Drying-type joint compounds come in
in two forms: as a dry powder in a bag and as a taping, topping, and all-purpose formulas. Advantages
premixed compound in a tub. Setting-type (powder) to drying-type compounds include convenience,
joint compounds are mixed with water on site. It ability to save leftover compound for months, and
sets stronger, harder, and faster than pre-mixed ease of sanding. Use topping compound for second
compounds and it doesn’t shrink as much. Setting- and third coats only. Lightweight, all-purpose joint
type compounds are best mixed with a mixing paddle compound may be used for both taping and topping
used with a power drill. It is important that the blend when convenience dictates.
Fire-rated tape is another convenient
self-adhesive tape, used for surfaces
that are finished just enough to meet
fire codes. It doesn’t need a coat of
compound to achieve its fire rating.
It is a popular choice in attached
garages where common walls between
the garage and house must meet
fire-rating standards.
Joint tape comes in two primary types: pre-creased paper tape that can be used on
inside corners, outside corners, or flat seams, and self-adhesive fiberglass mesh,
which is best suited for flat seams and repairs.
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F G
E
H
Drywall joint
compounds
include: setting-
type joint
compounds
in 20-minute,
45-minute, and
90-minute grades
(A, B, C); fireproof
taping compound
(D); premixed
all-purpose joint
compound (E);
premixed topping
compound
D (F); premixed
C
B lightweight
A all-purpose
compound (G, H).
TEXTURING MATERIALS
Texturing mud can be ready-mix topping compound or Texturing mud is applied to walls and ceilings with
specially designed for the look you are trying to achieve. pneumatic spray equipment, such as a hopper gun, which
Texturing compounds often come in dry powder form and are can be rented along with an air compressor to drive the
blended with water using a hand mixer or a drill and paddle. sprayer. Texture may also be applied with a long-handled
paint roller. When mixed to a thicker consistency, texturing
Aggregated ceiling textures have coarse to fine aggregates
mud may be applied like joint compound using finishing
like polystyrene or perlite particles already mixed in to achieve
trowels or knives.
popcorn or cottage cheese texture and other rough surfaces.
Adjacent finished surfaces need to be protected diligently
Orange peel and knock down textures are for walls
when texturing. A paper roller that lays 12" masking paper
and ceilings. The effects are produced with smooth
with masking tape along one edge comes in very handy, as
(unaggregated) compound, such as lightweight, all-purpose
does a spray shield. Use a knock-down knife to flatten the
joint compound.
peaks when creating a knock-down texture. A 12" knife can
Acoustical textures, used for ceilings and other non- also be used, though it may leave edge tracks. Any number
contact surfaces, are made from a compound designed to of brushes can be used to stipple or swirl compound into
absorb sound. interesting textures.
Products for
applying textured
B finishes include:
lightweight
pre-mixed joint-
compound (A, B);
medium aggregate
ceiling texture (C);
A
coarse aggregate
ceiling texture (D).
C
D
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Drywall Tools & Equipment
o hang drywall, you’ll need a variety of tools to windows, and other openings. For faster speed in
T measure, mark, and cut panels to size, as well as
fasten them to the framing. A tape measure is a necessity
making cutouts, use a spiral saw to cut through panels
after they have been installed.
for measuring and marking drywall—a 25-footer is a The best tool for hanging drywall is a screw gun.
versatile choice. A T-square saves time by helping you Similar to a drill, a screw gun has an adjustable clutch
make straight, square cuts across the entire width of a that stops driving the screw at a preset depth. For
panel; a chalk line creates layout and cutting lines across large jobs, it’s practical to rent a screw gun; otherwise,
greater spans. To check the framing for plumb and use a variable speed ⅜-inch drill with a dimpling tool
square, a framing square and four-foot level are handy. and carefully drive the screws. A drywall lifter helps
The principal tool for cutting drywall is a utility you prop up panels while fastening them, but a flat
knife. Make sure you have plenty of fresh blades on bar can perform the same function. Apply adhesives
hand, swapping out the dull ones often. Use a drywall and caulking using a caulk gun.
rasp to smooth cut panel edges. A standard compass Drywall hand tools can be purchased at home
is necessary for scribing adjacent surfaces onto a centers at reasonable prices. If you don’t wish to
panel and creating small circles for cutouts. For larger buy power tools, most of them can be found at
circles, use a drywall compass to score the panel. A rental centers, along with a variety of specialty tools.
drill can also be outfitted with a hole saw for pipes During every phase of a drywall project, make sure to
and other small round cutouts. A keyhole saw makes protect yourself from the dust and debris generated;
quick work of small holes, such as those for electrical always wear protective eyewear and a dust mask or
boxes. A drywall saw quickly cuts notches for doors, respirator, especially when sanding.
Tools for installing A
drywall include: E
C
flat pry bar (A),
speed square (B), B
4" taping K
knife (C), cordless
drill/driver (D), 12" F J
L
taping knife (E),
chalkline (F), dust G D
mask (G), drywall
M H I w
hammer (H), 6"
taping knife (I),
carpenter’s N
O
square (J), drywall
lifter (K), drywall R w
tape (L), joint P
compound tray
(mud tray) (M),
drywall rasp (N), Q
utility knife (O),
drywall keyhole
saw (P), 3-ft. S
level (Q), caulk
gun (R), drywall
T-square (S).
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A
C
D
E
I
B
K
J
H
F G
N
M
L
Q
O
P
R
S
Drywall finishing tools include: 5-gallon bucket (A); hand/block sander (B); work light (C); drywall banjo (D); mixing paddle (E);
12" finishing trowel (F); 6" angled taping knife (G); corner taping knives (H); wet sanding sponge (I); paint roller with tight-nap
roller cover (J); ½" drill (K); taping knives (8, 10, 12") (L); screwdriver (M); utility knife (N); dry sanding sponges (O); mud
pan (P); taping knives (4, 6") (Q); hand masher (R); 120-, 150-, 220-grit sanding screens, sandpaper, and pole sander (S).
A successful drywall finish job is one that isn’t tight spots. Many drywall installers also find a 12-inch
seen once the paint or wallcovering is applied. A finishing trowel handy for feathering the final coat.
flawless finish is a lot easier to obtain when you use Don’t buy bottom-line or plastic knives, even for a small
the proper tools for the job. Mixing joint compound job—the money saved won’t justify the frustration.
with a ½-inch heavy-duty drill and a mixing paddle, Sanding completes the job. Professionals use
for example, yields superior product and takes far a pole sander with replaceable fiberglass sanding
less time than mixing by hand (although using a hand screens—a versatile and effective tool, and quite
masher will improve your results). Another useful handy for ceilings. For hand sanding, sanding blocks
tool is a mud pan that holds the compound while you and dry sanding sponges will take care of the finish
work. It fits nicely into your hand and has sharp edges work, and a bright work light can help draw attention
for scraping excess mud from taping knives. to overlooked areas.
As for knives, the minimum you’ll need are a 6-inch If you will be skim-coating surfaces, you’ll also
knife for taping and a 12-inch knife for the filler and need a 5-gallon bucket for thinning down compound
final coats—though a 4-inch taping knife is handy for and a paint roller with a tight-nap roller cover for
tight spots, and some prefer a 10-inch knife for the filler application. Finally, keep a few general tools on hand
coat. There are a number of specialty knives available for making adjustments as you work, such as a utility
that can help make taping easier, such as a double- knife for trimming tape or panels at butt joints, and a
bladed knife for inside corners and angled knives for screwdriver to drive protruding heads.
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Specialty Tools
A drywall hammer has a textured face
that creates indented lines in the paper
without breaking the surface. The lines
create tooth to help joint compound bond
to the drywall surface. The claw end of a
drywall hammer is flattened to function
as a pry bar to jack panels into place.
A panel carrier supports drywall panels from below and
includes a carrying handle so panels can be easily carried
by one person.
Drywall clips are used to isolate
corner joints from the movement
of adjacent framing members.
They also facilitate optimal
thermal insulation of walls by
reducing the number of studs
and backers needed.
Drywall stilts are a useful way to reach A drywall lifter is basically a one piece
the ceiling and retain mobility. Use metal lever that slips underneath the
them only for finishing drywall and panel at floor level. Stepping on the lift
only after the room has been cleared pedal causes the panel to rise about ½",
of debris and drop cloths. Do not use which is the recommended minimum
them when installing drywall panels—it gap between the floor and the bottom of
is a very dangerous practice. the panel.
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Drywall benches have broad bench tops so they can be used
as step stools as well as sawhorses for holding panels to
be cut. Most are adjustable for ideal access to upper walls
and ceilings.
Drywall guns feature a special chuck for automatic depth
control of the screw head. Self-feeding models automatically
load drywall screws collated on plastic strips, saving time. If
you do not use self-feeding guns regularly, calibrating them
can be tricky. Also, the cost-per-screw is much higher. They
can be rented at most building or rental centers.
A pair of T-braces or “deadmen”
that are 1" taller than the ceiling
height can help hold drywall
against the framing during ceiling
installations. Cut a straight 2 × 4
so it’s ½" shorter than the ceiling
height, then fasten a 36"-long 2 × 4
to the end for the bracing arm.
A panel lift is a rented tool that allows you to lift drywall to a
ceiling or high wall. It is stable and will hold the panel as long
as necessary, making it an indispensable tool if you will be
working alone. (continued)
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A mortar hawk can be loaded with joint compound and toted
around so you can take just as much as you need for each
dimple or seam.
A drywall tape reel holds 500-ft.-long rolls of paper
joint tape and clips to a belt for easy access. It
includes a threaded slot for easy tear-off.
A corner crimper attaches metal corner bead to outside
corners without the use of fasteners. It’s especially useful for
metal-framed walls where nails don’t grip.
A drywall banjo is a relatively inexpensive taping machine
that passes paper tape through a box filled with thinned joint
compound for simultaneous tape and mud application. These
also can be rented at larger rental centers.
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Sanding systems can reduce airborne dust by up to 95%. Air compressors and sprayguns with handheld hoppers are
Most systems are available with both pole and hand sanding used to apply texture to walls and ceilings, and are available
attachments that connect to a wet/dry vacuum. Water for rent. While they are relatively easy to use, get an operator’s
filters are also available for catching dust before it reaches manual or lesson at the rental center, then practice on a scrap
the vacuum. of cardboard before attempting your project.
CLEANING DRYWALL FINISHING TOOLS
Taping tools can be cleaned easily with water. Rinse and Hang taping knives to store them so the blades will not
wipe off taping knives, mud pans, and mixing paddles be bent or damaged by other tools. A pegboard hanger
immediately after use. Do not clean tools in a sink— system is perfect for this task, and the knives will be easy
compound can settle in pipes where it will harden and clog to locate when you need them.
drains. Wipe down and dry tools thoroughly to prevent rust.
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Drywall Installation
anging drywall panels can be an awkward task
H marked by heavy lifting and strenuous physical
feats. Or it can be an efficient process that exploits the
mechanical advantages of specialized drywall tools
and accessories. Unless you are counting on home
improvement work for exercise and conditioning, the
recommendations in this chapter will help take the
pain and frustration out of the drywalling process.
As a general rule, use the smallest number of
drywall panels possible to minimize seams and
potential cracks. Unfortunately, bigger panels are
heavier, which is a particular issue when you’re
drywalling a ceiling. If you have ever tried to hold a full
sheet of ⅝-inch drywall overhead for several minutes
while someone else fumbles to get a screw in place,
you can probably still feel the strain in your arms
and shoulders. Instead, use a panel lift (page 55)—a
miraculous rental tool that does the heavy lifting
for you.
In this chapter:
U Making a Layout Plan
U Preparing for Drywall Installation
U Measuring & Cutting Drywall
U Fastening Drywall
U Hanging Drywall
U Hanging Cementboard
U Curved Walls
U Architectural Details
U Archways
U Preformed Domes
U Garage Drywall
U Basement Prep: Solution 1
U Basement Prep: Solution 2
U Soundproofing
U Multiple Drywall Layers
U Soundproof Room
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12 ft. Acceptable
8 ft.
Making a Layout Plan Plan A
12 ft. Better
lanning the layout of drywall panels prior to
P installation makes it a lot easier to create a
materials list, minimize seams, and solve potential
4 ft.
problems before they crop up. Take careful
measurements and sketch each wall and ceiling to 4 ft.
be covered. Note the center-to-center (O.C.) spacing
of the framing members, which can determine the
thickness of drywall you install as well as how you Plan B
install it (either parallel or perpendicular to the Wrong
4 ft. 16 ft.
framing). See the chart on the opposite page for
maximum framing spacing allowances.
Standard drywall is commonly available in widths of 4
feet and 54 inches and lengths of 8, 10, 12, 14, and 16 feet.
It’s in your best interest to use the longest drywall panels 8 ft.
you can: It’ll save you a lot of work during the finishing
phase. Home centers and lumberyards always have 4 × 8
foot panels in stock and usually carry smaller quantities
of the other sizes, or you can special order them. Plan C
The goal of planning the optimal drywall layout Correct
is to minimize seams. Seams require joint tape, 16 ft. 4 ft.
compound, and sanding, which means the less of
them there are, the less work you have ahead of you. 4 ft.
For wall or ceiling surfaces 48 inches wide or less,
cover the entire area using a single drywall panel.
With no seams to tape, you’ll only have to cover the
4 ft.
screw heads with a few thin coats of compound.
Walls that are wider than 48 inches will require at
least two panels. While there are a number of ways you Plan D
can hang them, some possibilities yield better results
than others. For example, for a wall that is 8 feet high Avoid butt joints where possible, but if they are
and 12 feet long (as shown in first two plans at the necessary, locate them as far from the center of the wall
top right), three panels could be installed vertically as possible to help mask the seam. While it is best to
(Plan A), resulting in only tapered seams and no butt use full panels, do not butt a tapered edge to panel ends
joints. However, this plan requires 16 linear feet of (Plan C). This configuration produces an 8-foot long butt
vertical taping, working from floor to ceiling, which seam that will be difficult to finish. The best solution is
is more difficult than taping a horizontal seam. Using to stagger the long panels and fill in with pieces cut from
two 4 × 12 foot panels (Plan B) reduces the amount of another (Plan D). For all butt joints, panel ends must
taping by 25 percent and places the seam about waist break on a framing member unless you plan to use back
high, easing the finishing process. While a reduction of blocking to recess the seam (see page 83).
25 percent of the finish work may not mean much on a In rooms with ceilings over 8 feet in height, use
small project, on a large remodel or new construction 54-inch-wide panels. If ceilings are taller than 9 feet,
it can save you a lot of time and money. consider using longer panels installed vertically.
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Stagger joints
Break over middle of openings
Tapered edge seams
Note utility lines
for reference
Drywall seams must fall on the centers of framing members, so measure and mark the framing when planning your layout. Use
long sheets horizontally to span an entire wall. Avoid butted end joints whenever possible; where they do occur, stagger them
between rows so they don’t fall on the same framing member. Don’t place seams over the corners of doors, windows, or other
openings; joints there often crack or cause bulges that interfere with trim. Where framing contains utility lines, draw a map for
future reference, noting locations of wiring, pipes, and shutoff valves.
MAXIMUM FRAMING SPACING
PANEL THICKNESS INSTALLATION MAXIMUM FRAMING SPACING
3
⁄8" Ceilings, perpendicular to framing 16" O.C.
walls 16" O.C.
½" Ceilings, parallel to framing 16" O.C.
Ceilings, perpendicular to framing 24" O.C.
walls 24" O.C.
5
⁄8" Ceilings, parallel to framing 16" O.C.
Ceilings, perpendicular to framing 24" O.C.
walls 24" O.C.
Estimating Materials
To estimate the number of drywall panels you’ll The number of screws you’ll need depends
need, simply count the number used in your layout on the spacing of your framing and the fastener
sketch. For larger projects, you can do a quick spacing schedule required (see page 73). For a rough
estimation for 4 × 8 foot panels by measuring the estimate, calculate the square footage of the wall
length of the walls and dividing the total by 4. For and ceiling surfaces, and multiply by one fastener
each window, subtract a quarter panel; for doors, per square foot. Drywall screws are sold in pounds;
half a panel. Keep in mind that panels are sold one pound of screws equals roughly 320 screws.
in pairs, so round odd numbered totals up to an Construction adhesive is available in tubes. Check the
even number. manufacturer’s specifications on the tube for coverage.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Preparing for Drywall Installation
Work gloves
Eye protection
egin your installation project
B by checking the framing—and
adding blocking, if necessary—and
Hammer
Tape measure
Framing square
planning the layout of the panels.
Minor flaws in the framing can Handsaw
be hidden by the drywall and Plane
joint compound, but a severely Screwgun or drill
bowed or twisted stud or crowned
2× framing lumber
or sagging joists will result in an
uneven finished surface. 10d framing nails
Check the framing using your Wood shims
eye, a straight board, or a string. Drywall screws
Bad studs or joists can be planed Metal protector plates
down, furred out, or replaced.
But for serious ceiling problems, Foam insulation
Following your layout plan, measure and Furring strips
it’s sometimes easiest to add a
mark the location of seams to ensure
grid of furring strips or install a there is adequate backing for panels. Cardboard strips
steel channel ceiling system (see Install 2× blocking where needed to Stapler
page 65). provide additional fastening support.
Drywall Preparation
Protector plate
1¼" or less
Install protector plates where wires or Wrap water pipes along the ceiling Mark the location and dimensions
pipes pass through framing members with foam insulation before covering of electrical boxes on the floor. This
and are less than 1¼" from the front them with drywall. This prevents makes it easier to locate them during
edge. The plates keep drywall screws condensation on the pipes that can drip drywall installation.
from puncturing wires or pipes. onto the drywall and cause staining.
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Installing Blocking
Add backing to support panel edges that Add crossblocking with 24" O.C. spacing Fasten 2 × 4 nailers to the top plate
don’t fall over framing. When installing between framing members where of walls that run parallel to joints. This
new panels next to an existing wall needed to help support edges of drywall provides a fastening surface for ceiling
surface, or where the framing layout panels at joints. panels. The nailer should overhang the
doesn’t coincide with the drywall edges, plate by half its width.
it’s often easiest to add an extra stud
for backing.
Joist Joist
1 × 3 furring 2 × 3 furring
strips laid flat Drywall strips laid flat
Joist
2 × 3 strips
installed on edge
Attach furring strips where service lines and other obstacles project beyond the Use wood strips to join panel edges
framing. The strips create a flat surface for attaching drywall and can also be used in problem areas between framing,
to compensate for uneven joists. Use 1 × 3 or 2 × 3 furring strips, and attach them creating a floating seam. This method
perpendicularly to the framing with drywall screws. Space the strips 16" O.C., and does not provide a substitute for
use wood shims secured behind the strips to adjust for unevenness. structural backing; the panels still must
be supported by framing or blocking.
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Straightening Bowed Studs
Use a long, straight 2 × 4 as a guide to check the alignment of studs. Hold the 2 × 4
against the studs both horizontally and diagonally, looking for gaps. To check a
corner for square, use a 24" framing square.
For studs that bow outward slightly,
use a plane or chisel to trim the facing
edge just enough so it is flush with the
surrounding framing.
Studs in non-loadbearing walls bowed inward more than ¼" can be straightened.
Using a handsaw, make a 2" cut into the stud at the midpoint of the bow. Pull the
stud outward, and glue a tapered wood shim into the saw cut to hold the stud
straight. Attach a 2-ft.-long 2 × 4 brace to one side of the stud to strengthen it, then
trim off the shim. Replace any studs that are severely twisted.
Staple cardboard strips to stud faces.
Use solid strips (not corrugated), which
are available from drywall suppliers,
or mat board from an art supply store.
For extreme bows, start with a 12 to
24" strip and add layers of successively j
longer strips.
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Installing a Suspended Ceiling System for Drywall
Drywall main tees
12 ga. hanger wires
Drywall cross tees
Drywall panel
Channel molding
Suspended ceiling systems for drywall are installed similarly to suspended acoustical ceilings. The resilient steel tees, channels,
and heavy-gauge wire work together to create a base grid strong enough to support up to two layers of 5⁄8" fire-rated drywall. Like
steel framing, steel channels and tees can be cut to length using aviation snips or a saw outfitted with a metal cutting blade.
Once the ceiling system is in place, drywall panels are installed as in a conventional installation. For ½" and 5⁄8" panels, use
1" Type S (fine thread) drywall screws.
5
⁄8" drywall panel Tee
Main tee
12 ga.
Main tee hanger wire
24" O.C. Transition clip
Cross tee
Fire expansion notch
Main tee splice Drywall panel Angle molding
Main tees should be supported every 24" O.C. for ½" and Form vertical surfaces for ceiling soffits or ductwork raceways
5
⁄8" ceiling panels, and a maximum of 16" O.C. for thicker by screwing drywall panels to tees that are attached to the
panels. Use 12-gauge hanger wires fastened to the ceiling main tees with transition clips.
joists. Fasten the channel molding to framing members with
1¼" drywall screws.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Measuring & Cutting Drywall Work gloves
Eye protection
Tape measure
rywall is one of the easiest building materials to install, partly because
D it allows for minor errors. Most professionals measure and cut to the
nearest ⅛ inch, and it’s perfectly acceptable to trim off a little extra from
T-square
Pencil
a panel to make it easier to get into a tight space. The exceptions to this Chalkline
are cutouts for electrical boxes and recessed light fixtures, which must be Utility knife
accurate because the coverplates usually hide less than you think they will.
Drywall rasp
Make sure your utility knife is sharp. A sharp blade ensures clean,
accurate cuts that slice through the face paper and score the gypsum Drywall saw
core in one pass. A dull blade can slip from the cutting line to snag and Keyhole saw
rip the face paper and is more likely to cause injury. Compass or drywall compass
With a sharp utility knife, you can make cuts from either side of panels. Spiral saw
But when using drywall and keyhole saws, make all cuts from the front
side to prevent tearing the face paper. For projects that require a number Drywall panels
of cutouts, use a spiral saw. This tool makes short work of large openings Clamps
and electrical boxes, though it generates a lot of dust; make sure to wear a Straightedge
dust mask. Inexpensive spiral saws are available at home centers, or you Chalk
can use a standard router outfitted with a piloted drywall bit.
How to Make Straight Cuts
Mark the length on the face of the panel,
then set a T-square at the mark. Hold
the square in place with your hand and
foot, and cut through the face paper
using a utility knife with sharp blade.
2 3
Bend the scored section backward Fold back the waste piece and cut
1 with both hands to snap the through the back paper with the
gypsum core. utility knife.
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How to Make Angled Cuts
1 2
Measure both the vertical “rise” and horizontal “run” of the Connect the marks with a T-square, hold down firmly, and
area, and mark the dimensions along the corresponding score the drywall from point to point. Finish the cut using the
edges of the panel. “snap cut” method on page 66. Be careful not to damage
the pointed ends.
TIP: MAKING ROUGH CUTS
3
Make horizontal cuts using a tape measure and utility
knife. With one hand, hold the knife blade at the end
of the tape. With the other hand, grip the tape at the Smooth rough edges with a drywall rasp. One or two passes
desired measurement; slide this hand along the panel with the rasp should be sufficient. To help fit a piece into
edge as you make the cut. a tight space, bevel the edge slightly toward the back of
the panel.
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How to Cut Notches
2
1
Using a full-size drywall saw, cut the vertical sides of the Cut the face paper along the bottom of the notch using a utility
notch. (These saws are also handy for cutting out door and knife. Snap the waste piece backward to break the core, then
window openings after the drywall is installed.) cut through the back paper.
How to Cut Large Openings
2
1
Measure the location of the cutout and transfer the dimensions Install the panel over the opening. The scored line should fall
to the backside of the panel. Score along the line that at the header. Cut the drywall along the jambs and up to the
represents the header of the opening using a straightedge header using a drywall saw. Snap forward the waste piece to
and utility knife. break the core, then cut through the face paper and remove.
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How to Cut an Electrical Box Opening: Coordinate Method
Transfer the coordinates to the panel
and connect the points, using a
T-square. Measure from the panel
edge that will abut the fixed edge you
measured from. If the panel has been
cut short for a better fit, make sure to
account for this in your measurements.
2
1 3
Locate the four corners of the box Drill a pilot hole in one corner of the
by measuring from the nearest fixed outline, then make the cutout with a
edge—a corner, the ceiling, or the edge keyhole or drywall saw.
of an installed panel—to the outside
edges of the box.
How to Cut an Electrical Box Opening: Chalk Method
1 2
Rub the face of the electrical box with chalk or lipstick, Pull the panel back from the wall; a chalk outline of the box is
position the panel where it will be installed, and press it on the back of the panel. Drill a pilot hole in one corner of the
against the box. outline, then make the cut with a keyhole or drywall saw.
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How to Cut Round Holes in Drywall
Force the pointed end of a drywall saw
through the panel from the face side,
then saw along the marked line. (These
saws work well for all internal cuts.)
2
1 VARIATION: Drive the point of a
drywall compass into the center
To make round cutouts, measure to the marking, then rotate the compass
center of the object, then transfer the wheel to cut the face paper. Tap a
centerpoint to the drywall panel. Use nail through the centerpoint, score
a compass set to half the diameter of the back paper, then knock out the
the cutout to mark the circle on the hole through the face.
panel face.
How to Make a Cutout for a Round Fixture Box
Transfer the coordinates to the panel,
measuring from the panel edge that
1 will abut the fixed edge you measured
from, then connect the points using
a T-square. The point where the lines
intersect is the centerpoint of the circle.
NOTE: If the panel has been cut short
for a better fit, make sure to account
for this in your measurements.
2
3
Use a compass to draw the outline of
the round box on the panel (see above).
Drill a pilot hole at one point of the
Locate the four outermost edges of outline, then make the cutout with a
the round box by measuring from keyhole saw.
the nearest fixed edge—a corner, the
ceiling, or the edge of an installed NOTE: To avoid the need for
panel—to the outermost edges of stainblocking primer, substitute a
the box. pencil for a permanent marker.
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Making Cuts with a Compass
For out-of-square corners, cut the panel 1" longer than
necessary, then hold it in position so it is plumb. Set a
compass at 1¼", then run it along the wall to scribe the
corner onto the face of the panel. Snap cut along the line
using a utility knife (see page 66).
Irregular surfaces can be scribed onto panels using the same
method. Cut along the scribe line with a keyhole saw, then
test fit the piece and make adjustments as necessary.
Cutting Drywall with a Spiral Saw
Spiral saws (or drywall routers) are For electrical boxes, mark the floor For doorways and other openings, install
handy for cutting holes for electrical at the locations of the box centers. the drywall over the opening. Moving
boxes and openings. You can use a Hang the drywall, fastening only at the clockwise, let the bit follow the inside of
spiral saw made for the purpose or top edge. Plunge the bit into the box the frame to make the cutout. Always
outfit a standard router by removing center, move the bit sideways to the work clockwise when cutting along the
the router base and installing a piloted edge, then carefully work the bit to the inside of a frame; counterclockwise
drywall bit. outside. Follow the outside of the box, when following the outside of an object,
cutting counterclockwise. like an electrical box.
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Fastening Drywall
he key to fastening drywall is to countersink
T screwheads to create a slight recess, or “dimple,”
without breaking the face paper. The best tool for the job
is a screwgun, which has an adjustable clutch that can
be set to stop screws at a preset depth. A variable speed
drill/driver and a light touch will also get the job done.
When driving screws, hold the screwgun or drill at
a right angle to the framing, placing the fastener ⅜ inch
from the panel edge. Space screws evenly along the
perimeter and across the field of the panel, following
the chart on the opposite page. Do not fasten the
entire perimeter and then fasten the field; work along
Pre-drive fasteners near the edges of panels at the location
the length or width of the panel, moving across to the
of each framing member to help facilitate installation. Drive
sides as you push the drywall tight against the framing. fasteners deep enough to hold their place but not enough to
Construction adhesive can be used in addition to screws penetrate the backside of the panel. This lets you hold the
to create a stronger bond between panel and framing. panel in place as you finish driving the screws one-handed.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Work gloves Screwgun or 3⁄8" drill Drywall Drywall screws
Eye protection Caulk gun Drywall nails Construction adhesive
FASTENING DRYWALL
At panel edges, drive Recess all screws to
fasteners 3⁄8" from the edges, provide a space, called
making sure to hit the framing a “dimple,” for the joint
squarely. If the fastener tears compound. However,
the paper or crumbles the driving a screw too far and
edge, drive another about 2" breaking the paper renders
away from the first. it useless.
Adhesives create stronger bonds than fasteners and reduce
the number of screws needed for panel installation. Apply
a 3⁄8" bead along framing members, stopping 6" from panel
edges (left). At butt joints, apply beads to both sides of the
joint (right). Panels are then fastened along the perimeter.
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SIZE OF FASTENERS
FASTENER DRYWALL MINIMUM FASTENER DRYWALL MINIMUM
TYPE THICKNESS FASTENER LENGTH TYPE THICKNESS FASTENER LENGTH
Wood screws 3
⁄8" 1" Steel screws 3
⁄8" ¾"
(Type W; ½" 11⁄8" (Type S; ½" 7
⁄8"
coarse thread) 5
⁄8" 1¼" fine thread, self-tapping) 5⁄8" 1"
*For multiple layers of drywall, fasteners must penetrate the framing by 7⁄8". Add the thickness of the two layers plus 7⁄8" to determine the minimum fastener length.
MAXIMUM FASTENER SPACING
FRAMING O. C. INSTALLATION MAXIMUM FRAMING O. C. INSTALLATION MAXIMUM
SPACING STYLE SCREW SPACING STYLE SCREW
SPACING SPACING
Wood joists 16" O.C. Single panel w/screws 12" O.C. Wood studs 24" O.C. Multiple layers w/adhesive
Single panel w/adhesive (cont.) & screws:
& screws 16" O.C. Base layer: 12" O.C.
Multiple layers w/screws Face layer: 16" O.C. (at top &
Base layer: 24" O.C. bottom only)
Face layer: 12" O.C. Steel studs 16" O.C. Single panel w/screws 16" O.C.
Multiple layers w/adhesive Multiple layers w/screws:
& screws: Base layer:
Base layer: 12" O.C. Parallel panels 24" O.C.
Face layer: 12" O.C. Perpendicular *(see below)
(perimeter) Face layer: 16" O.C.
16" O.C. (field) Multiple layers w/adhesive
24" O.C. Single panel w/screws 12" O.C. & screws:
Single panel w/adhesive Base layer: 24" O.C.
& screws 16" O.C. Face layer: 12" O.C.
Multiple layers w/screws 12" O.C. (perimeter)
Multiple layers w/adhesive 16" O.C. (field)
& screws: Steel studs 24" O.C. Single panel w/screws 12" O.C.
Base layer: 12" O.C. & resilient Multiple layers w/screws:
Face layer: 12" O.C. channel Base layer:
(perimeter) walls Parallel panels 24" O.C.
16" O.C. (field) Perpendicular *(see below)
Wood studs 16" O.C. Single panel w/screws 16" O.C. Face layer: 12" O.C.
Single panel w/adhesive Multiple layers w/adhesive
& screws: & screws:
Load-bearing partitions 24" O.C. Base layer: 24" O.C.
Nonload-bearing partitions 24" O.C. Face layer: 12" O.C.
Multiple layers w/screws (perimeter)
Base layer: 24" O.C. 16" O.C. (field)
Face layer: 16" O.C. Resilient 24" O.C. Single panel w/screws 12" O.C.
Multiple layers w/adhesive channel Multiple layers w/screws:
& screws: ceilings Base layer:
Base layer: 16" O.C. Parallel panels 24" O.C.
Face layer: 16" O.C. (at top & Perpendicular *(see below)
bottom only) Face layer: 12" O.C.
24" O.C. Single panel w/screws 12" O.C. Multiple layers w/adhesive
Single panel w/adhesive & screws:
& screws: Base layer: 24" O.C.
Load-bearing partitions 16" O.C. Face layer: 12" O.C.
Nonload-bearing partitions 24" O.C. (perimeter)
Multiple layers w/screws 16" O.C. (field)
Base layer: 24" O.C.
*1 screw at each end and 1 screw centered in the field, at each fastener location.
Face layer: 12" O.C. NOTE: The above information is subject to manufacturer installation specifications.
DRYWALL INSTALLATION 73
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j
Hanging Drywall
anging drywall is a project that can be completed
H quickly and easily with a little preplanning and a
helping hand.
If you’re installing drywall on both the ceilings and
the walls, do the ceilings first so the wall panels add
extra support for the ceiling panels. When it comes
time to install the walls, hang all full panels first, then
measure and cut the remaining pieces about ⅛ inch
too small to allow for easy fit.
In nearly every installation, you’ll deal with
corners. For standard 90° corners, panels most often
can butt against one another. But other corners, such
as those lacking adequate nailing surfaces or ones
that are prone to cracking, may require the use of
drywall clips or specialty beads.
Drywall is heavy. While it’s possible to hang drywall
by yourself, work with a helper whenever possible.
A panel lift is also a time and back saver, simplifying
installation to ceilings and the upper portion of walls.
If you don’t want to rent a panel lift, you can make
a pair of T-braces, called “deadmen” (see page 55) to
hold ceiling panels tight against framing for fastening.
TIP
Use a panel lifter to position drywall for fastening. Slide the
front end of the lifter beneath the panel edge, then rock
backward with your foot to raise the panel into place.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Work gloves Drywall panels
Eye protection Drywall screws
T-square Deadmen
Where untapered panel ends will be butted together,
Utility knife Ladders
bevel-cut the outside edges of each panel at 45°, Screwgun or drill Metal flashing
removing about 1⁄8" of material. This helps prevent the
Panel lift Self-tapping steel screws
paper from creating a ridge along the seam. Peel off any
loose paper from the edge. Chalk line Drywall clips
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How to Install Drywall on Flat Ceilings
Snap a chalk line perpendicular to the
joists, 481⁄8" from the starting wall.
1
2
Measure to make sure the first panel will break on the center of a joist. If necessary,
cut the panel on the end that abuts the side wall so the panel breaks on the next
farthest joist. Load the panel onto a rented panel lift, or use a helper, and lift the
panel flat against the joists.
3 4
Position the panel with the leading edge on the chalk line After the first row of panels is installed, begin the next row
and the end centered on a joist. Fasten the panel with with a half-panel. This ensures that the butted end joints will
appropriately sized screws following the fastener spacing be staggered between rows.
chart on page 73.
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How to Install Ceiling Panels Using Deadmen
2
1
Construct two 2 × 4 deadmen (see page 55). Lean one against Use the other deadman to hoist the panel against the joists 24"
the wall where the panel will be installed, with the top arm a from the back end. Place ladders at each deadman location
couple inches below the joists. Have a helper assist in lifting and adjust the panel’s position by loosening the braces with
the panel and placing the lead edge on the arm. Angle the one hand and moving the panel with the other. Replace the
deadman to pin the panel flush against the joists, but don’t braces and fasten the panel to the framing, following the
use so much pressure you risk damage to the panel. fastener spacing chart on page 73.
SETTING YOUR CLUTCH
Professional drywallers drive hundreds, even thousands,
of screws per day. Consequently, they invest in pro-quality
screwdriving equipment, often with self-feeding coils of
screws for rapid-fire work. For DIYers, this equipment can
be rented—and may be worth the investment for a very
large project. But in most cases, a decent quality cordless
drill/driver will do nicely. If the drill/driver has a clutch
(and most do these days), so much the better. Essentially,
a clutch stops the drill’s chuck from spinning when the
screw encounters a specific amount of resistance. This
prevents overdriving of the screw, which is especially
important when drywalling (you want to avoid driving the
screw far enough into the drywall to break the surface as when completing driving a screw into drywall. Before
paper). But for the clutch to work properly you need to you start driving any drywall screws, test your clutch setting
make sure it is set to the appropriate level of sensitivity. by driving a screw into a piece of scrap drywall and a
A drill/driver normally has several settings indicated on a 2 × 4. Re-set the clutch as needed until it stops driving the
shroud or ring near the drill chuck. The highest setting is moment the screwhead becomes countersunk, creating a
used for drilling. Basically, the clutch won’t disengage the very slight dimple. Having the clutch set correctly ensures
chuck unless it encounters so much resistance that the that your fasteners will have maximum holding power
drill could be damaged. On the lowest setting, the drill will with just enough of a surrounding dimple to give the joint
disengage when it encounters only very slight resistance, compound a place to go.
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Installing Floating Ceiling Joints
Use metal flashing to prevent cracks along the peak of pitched and cathedral ceilings (left) and the angle between pitched
ceilings and sidewalls (right). For both applications, cut metal flashing 16" wide and to the length of the joint, then bend it
lengthwise to match the angle of the peak or corner. Fasten flashing to the framing on one side only, then fasten the panels on
that side to the framing. However, fasten the panels at the unfastened side to the flashing only, using self-tapping steel screws.
Drive the first row of screws into the framing not less than 12" from the “floating” edge of the panels.
NOTE: Flexible vinyl bead can also be used for corners prone to cracking.
BENDING FLASHING
To bend flashing, make a bending jig by driving screws
into a piece of wood, creating a space one-half the For a ceiling with trusses, use drywall clips to eliminate cracks
width of the flashing when measured from the edge of caused by “truss uplift,” the seasonal shifting caused by
the board. Clamp the bending jig to a work surface. Lay weather changes. Slip clips on the edge of the panel prior
a piece of flashing flat on the board, and bend it over to installation, then fasten the clips to the top plate. Fasten
the edge. the panel to the trusses not less than 18" from the edge of
the panel.
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How to Install Drywall on Wood-framed Walls
2
1 3
Measure from the wall end or corner to With a helper or a drywall lifter, hoist Measure, cut, and install the remaining
make sure the first panel will break on the first panel tight against the ceiling, panels along the upper wall. Bevel
the center of the stud. If necessary, trim making sure the side edge is centered panel ends slightly, leaving a 1⁄8"
the sheet on the side or end that will on a stud. Push the panel flat against gap between them at the joint. Butt
be placed in the corner. Mark the stud the framing, and drive the starter screws joints can also be installed using
centers on the panel face, and pre-drive to secure the panel. Make any cutouts, back blocking to create a recess (see
screws at each location along the top then fasten the field of the panel, page 83).
edge to facilitate fastening. Apply adhesive following the screw spacing on page 73.
to the studs, if necessary (see page 72).
VARIATION: When
installing drywall
vertically, cut
each panel so
it’s ½" shorter
than the ceiling
height to allow
for expansion.
(The gap will be
covered by base
molding.)
4
Measure, cut, and install the bottom row, butting the panels
tight to the upper row and leaving a ½" gap at the floor. Secure
to the framing along the top edge using the starter screws,
then make all cutouts before fastening the rest of the panel.
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Installing Drywall at Inside Corners
Flashing panel Secured panel
with no fasteners pins floating
to corner stud. panel in place.
Standard 90° inside corners are installed with the first panel Use a “floating corner” to reduce the chances of popped
butted against the framing and the adjacent panel butted fasteners and cracks. Install the first panel, fastening only to
against the first. The screw spacing remains the same as within one stud bay of the corner. Push the leading edge of
on a flat wall (see page 73). If the corner is out of plumb or the adjacent panel against the first to support the unfastened
the adjacent wall has an irregular surface, see page 71 for edge. Fasten the second panel normally, including
cutting instructions. the corner.
Drywall clips can be used at corners that lack an adequate
For off-angle corners, do not overlap panel ends.
nailing surface, allowing two panels to be secured to the same
Install so the panel ends meet at the corner with a
stud. Slide clips onto the leading edge of the first panel, with 1
⁄8" gap between them.
the metal nailing flange outward. Install the panel, fastening
the flange to the stud on the adjacent wall with drywall
screws. Install the adjacent panel normally.
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Installing Drywall at Outside Corners
1. installed first 2. installed next
At outside corners, run panels long so they extend past the For standard 90° outside corners, install the first panel so
corner framing. Fasten the panel in place, score the backside, the outside edge is flush with the framing, then install the
and snap cut to remove the waste piece. adjacent panel so it overlaps the end of the first panel.
For off-angle corners or corners where bullnose bead will
For drywall that abuts a finished edge, such as
be installed, do not overlap panel ends. Install each panel
paneling or wood trim, install panels 1⁄8" from the
so it’s leading edge breaks 1⁄8" from the outside edge of
finished surface, then install an L-bead to cover the
the framing.
exposed edge (see page 119).
NOTE: Bullnose beads with a slight radius may require a
larger reveal.
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How to Install Drywall Abutting a Finished Surface
Cut a piece of drywall to size, but let the end run long for
final trimming. Slide the end of the drywall into the J-bead
1 until it fits snugly, then fasten the panel to the framing. Score
the backside flush with the face of the wall, then snap cut to
remove the waste.
2
J-bead
Cut the J-bead (see page 49) to size, then position it flush
against the finished surface. Fasten it to the adjacent framing
with drywall screws.
NOTE: Make sure to install J-bead that matches the
thickness of your drywall.
Installing Drywall On Gable Walls
Gables and cathedral ceilings present unique challenges when installing drywall. A few pointers that will help you be successful
include: Use as many of the panel’s factory edges as possible; test-fit each piece directly on the wall; do not force pieces into
place, but trim edges as needed instead; install pieces horizontally, with 2 × 4 blocking between the framing member; align
horizontal seams, but not vertical seams—stagger these to minimize any twisting in the framing members.
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How to Install Drywall on Metal Stud Walls
2
Open
side w
Closed
side
j
1
Metal stud walls in residential construction are generally Begin installing drywall panels in the corner of the room that’s
created with C-shaped 20- to 25-gauge steel studs that are closer to the open sides of the metal studs. The first panel
secured at the top and bottom with flanged tracks. If the wall should fall midway across a stud, coming from the direction
is built correctly, all of the open sides of the C-shaped studs of the open side. Attaching the panel this way will stabilize
will face in the same direction. Before you begin installing it; if you install the panel so the free end of the stud flange is
drywall, note which direction the open sides are on. loose, it may flex when you attach the drywall screws.
3 4
Screw the first panel at each corner using Type S drywall Install the second drywall panel, leaving a slight gap at the
screws (1" is recommended for ½" drywall). These screws joint. The new panel should be crossing the closed side of the
have a fairly sharp point that can penetrate the light-gauge C-shaped stud. Continue working in this direction until the
metal flanges of the steel studs. As when attaching drywall wall is covered. Taping and seaming are done the same way
to wood framing, take care not to overdrive the screws; they as for wood framing.
tend to take off rather aggressively once they engage in
the metal.
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Installing Back Blockers
No matter how good a job you do installing and
finishing a butt joint, there’s always a chance it’ll TOOLS & MATERIALS
be visible, even after a coat of paint or layer of Work gloves Tape measure
wallcovering. Drywall panels can expand and contract
as the temperature and humidity in your home Eye protection Drywall screws
changes, causing butted panel ends to push outward Screwgun ¾ × 10 × 48" plywood
and create ridges. While ridging eventually stops (up to or 3⁄8" drill ¼ × ¾ × 48" hardboard
a year after installation), you can install back blocking
to help prevent the problem before it even starts.
Back blocking creates a recessed butt joint by Although commercial back blockers are available,
slightly bending panel ends into the bay between you can easily make your own back blocker by
framing members, where they are secured to a attaching narrow strips of ¼-inch hardboard to the
floating blocking device with drywall screws. The edges of a 6 to 10-inch-wide strip of ¾-inch plywood.
result is a recessed joint that approximates a tapered When placed behind a drywall butt joint, the
joint and can be finished just as easily using standard hardboard strips will create a thin space, into which
techniques. And because the joint floats between the edges of the drywall will be deflected when it’s
framing members, it’s unlikely to crack or ridge. Back screwed to the back blocker. The instructions below
blocking can be used for both walls and ceilings. show a homemade back blocker in use.
How to Install a Back Blocker
1 2
back blocker
back blocker location
Hang the first drywall panel so the end breaks midway Install the second panel so it butts against the first panel.
between the framing members. Position the back blocker Fasten the end of the second panel to the back blocker with
behind the panel so the end covers half of the wood center drywall screws every 6". The screws will pull the end of the
strip, then fasten every 6" along the end. panel into the blocker, creating the recessed joint.
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Cementboard
Fiber-cement board
Dens-Shield
Hanging Cementboard
Common tile backers are cementboard, fiber-cement board,
and Dens-Shield. Cementboard is made from Portland cement
and sand reinforced by an outer layer of fiberglass mesh. Fiber-
se tile backer board as the substrate for tile
U walls in wet areas. Unlike drywall, tile backer
won’t break down and cause damage if water gets
cement board is made similarly, but with a fiber reinforcement
integrated throughout the panel. Dens-Shield is a water-
resistant gypsum board with a waterproof acrylic facing.
behind the tile. The three basic types of tile backer are
cementboard, fiber-cement board, and Dens-Shield. Dens-Shield has a waterproof acrylic facing
Though water cannot damage either cementboard that provides the water barrier. It cuts and installs
or fiber-cement board, it can pass through them. To much like drywall, but requires galvanized screws to
protect the framing members, install a water barrier of prevent corrosion and must be sealed with caulk at all
4-mil plastic or 15# building paper behind the backer. untaped joints and penetrations.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Work gloves T-square Taping knives 1¼" cementboard Latex-Portland
Eye protection Small masonry bits Stapler screws cement mortar
Utility knife or Hammer 4-mil plastic Cementboard 15# building paper
carbide-tipped sheeting joint tape Screwgun
Jigsaw with a carbide
cutter grit blade Cementboard Spacers
How to Hang Cementboard
1 2 3
Staple a water barrier of 4-mil plastic Cut cementboard by scoring through Make cutouts for pipes and other
sheeting or 15# building paper over the the mesh just below the surface with penetrations by drilling a series of
framing. Overlap seams by several inches, a utility knife or carbide-tipped cutter. holes through the board, using a small
and leave the sheets long at the perimeter. Snap the panel back, then cut through masonry bit. Tap the hole out with a j
the back-side mesh (inset). hammer or a scrap of pipe. Cut holes
NOTE: Framing for cementboard must along edges with a jigsaw and carbide j
be 16" on-center; steel studs must be NOTE: For tile applications, the rough grit blade.
20-gauge. face of the board is the front.
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4 5
Install the sheets horizontally. Where possible, use full pieces to avoid butted Cover the joints and corners with
seams, which are difficult to fasten. If there are vertical seams, stagger them cementboard joint tape (alkali-resistant
between rows. Leave a 1⁄8" gap between sheets at vertical seams and corners. Use fiberglass mesh) and latex-Portland
spacers to set the bottom row of panels ¼" above the tub or shower base. Fasten cement mortar (thin-set). Apply a layer
the sheets with 1¼" cementboard screws, driven every 8" for walls and every 6" for of mortar with a taping knife, embed the
ceilings. Drive the screws at least ½" from the edges to prevent crumbling. If the tape into the mortar, then smooth and
studs are steel, don’t fasten within 1" of the top track. level the mortar.
Finishing Cementboard
Greenboard
Paint Paint
Ceramic tile adhesive
Trim tile
Skim-coated joint compound
Tape Joint compound
Ceramic tile adhesive
Cementboard Grout
Regular tile
Cementboard
To finish a joint between cementboard and greenboard, seal the To finish small areas of cementboard that will not be tiled, seal
joint and exposed cementboard with ceramic tile adhesive, a the cementboard with ceramic tile adhesive, a mixture of four
mixture of four parts adhesive to one part water. Embed paper parts adhesive to one part water, then apply a skim-coat of
joint tape into the adhesive, smoothing the tape with a taping all-purpose drywall joint compound using a 12" drywall knife.
knife. Allow the adhesive to dry, then finish the joint with at Then prime and paint the wall.
least two coats of all-purpose drywall joint compound.
DRYWALL INSTALLATION 85
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CUTTING STANDARD STEEL TRACKS
2"
Curved Walls
12" min. of strip at
each end of curve
Steel strip
urved walls have obvious appeal and are
C surprisingly easy to build. Structurally, a curved wall
is very similar to a standard non-loadbearing partition
As a substitute for flexible track, use standard 20- or
25-gauge steel track. Along the curved portion of the
wall, with two key differences: the stud spacing and the wall, cut the web and flange along the outside of the
materials used for the top and bottom wall plates. curve at 2" intervals. From the web of a scrap piece, cut
Traditionally, plates for curved walls were cut from a 1"-wide strip that runs the length of the curve, plus
¾-inch plywood—a somewhat time-consuming and 8". Bend the track to follow the curve, then screw the
strip to the inside of the outer flange, using 7⁄16" Type
wasteful process—but now a flexible track product
S screws. This construction requires 12" of straight
made of light-gauge steel has made the construction (uncut) track at both ends of the curve.
much easier (see Resources, page 267). Using the steel
track, frame the wall based on a layout drawn onto
the floor. Shape the track to follow the layout, screw framing, or install cabinets or other permanent
together the track pieces to lock-in the shape, then fixtures for stability.
add the studs. If you are planning a curved wall of full height, use
The ideal stud spacing for your project depends a plumb bob to transfer the layout of the bottom track
upon the type of finish material you plan to use. If up to the ceiling for the layout of the top track. Check
it’s drywall, ¼-inch flexible panels (usually installed the alignment by placing a few studs at the ends and
in double layers) require studs spaced a maximum middle, and then fasten the top track to the ceiling
of 9 inches O.C. for curves with a minimum radius of joists with drywall screws.
32 inches. For radii less than 32 inches, you may have When hanging drywall on curved walls, it’s best to
to wet the panels. install the panels perpendicular to the framing. Try
By virtue of their shape, curved walls provide some to avoid joints, but if they are unavoidable, note that
of their own stability. Half-walls with pronounced vertical seams are much easier to hide in the curve
curves may not need additional support if they’re than horizontal seams. If panels have been wetted for
secured at one end. If your wall needs additional the installation, allow them to dry thoroughly before
support, look for ways to tie it into the existing taping seams.
A curved wall
can be created
in several ways
using traditional
framing and
drywall methods
or modern
products that
eliminate much of
the work.
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How to Frame a Curved Wall
Studs
Chalk lines
Radius
Existing wall
Centerpoint
1 2
Draw the wall layout. Mark straight portions with parallel chalk lines representing Position the track along the layout lines,
the outside edges of the wall track. Use a framing square to make sure the lines following the curve exactly. Mark the
are perpendicular to the adjoining wall. At the start of the curve, square off from end of the wall onto the track using a
the chalk line and measure out the distance of the radius to mark the curve’s marker, then cut the track to length with
centerpoint. For small curves (4 ft., or so), drive a nail at the centerpoint, hook the aviation snips. Cut the top track to the
end of a tape measure on the nail, and draw the curve using the tape and a pencil same length.
as a compass; for larger curves, use a straight board nailed at the centerpoint.
Strap
4
Flange
3 5
Reposition the bottom track on the Fasten the bottom track to the floor, Fit the top track over the studs and align
layout, then apply masking tape along using 1¼" drywall screws. Mark the them with the layout marks. Fasten the
the outside flanges. Secure the track stud layout onto both tracks. Cut the studs to the top track with one screw
by driving a Type S screw through each studs to length. Install the studs one on each side, checking the wall for
flange and into the strap. Screw both at a time, using a level to plumb each level and height as you work. Set the
sides of the track. Turn over the bottom along its narrow edge, then driving a level on top of the track, both parallel
track, then set the top track on top and 1¼" screw through the flange or strap and perpendicular to the track, before
match its shape. Tape and screw the and into the stud on both sides. fastening each stud.
top track.
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Installing Drywall on Curves
Seams
Use two layers of ¼" flexible drywall for curved walls and Install corner bead with adhesive and staples or drywall nails.
arches. If there are butted seams, stagger the seams Do not use screws to attach corner bead; they will cause the
between layers. bead material to kink and distort.
Hanging Flexible Drywall
Start at the center for concave curves. Cut the first panel a Start at one end for convex curves. Cut the panel long and
little long and position it lengthwise along the wall. Carefully fasten it lengthwise along the wall, bending the panel as you
bend the panel toward the midpoint of the curve and fasten work. Add the second layer, then trim both to the framing. To
it to the center stud. Work toward the ends to fasten the rest cover the top of a curved wall, set a ½" panel on the wall and
of the panel. Install the second panel over the first, then trim scribe it from below.
along the top of the wall with a drywall saw.
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Hanging Drywall in Archways
Cut ¼" flexible drywall to width and a few inches longer VARIATION: Score the backside of ½" drywall every inch
than needed. Fasten to the arch with 1¼" drywall screws, (or more for tighter curves) along the length of the piece.
working from the center out to the ends. Trim the ends of Starting at one end, fasten the piece along the arch; the
the piece, and install a second to match the thickness of the scored drywall will conform to the arch.
surrounding drywall.
WET-BENDING
Drywall is relatively easy to conform to surfaces that curve
in just one direction, as long as you wet the tensioned
surface of the drywall and don’t try to bend it farther than
it will go. When wetted and rested for an hour, ½" drywall
will bend to a 4 foot radius, 3⁄8" to a 3 foot radius, and ¼" to
a 2 foot radius. Special flexible ¼" drywall does not require
wetting for radii greater than 32".
Set framing members closer together for curved surfaces
to avoid flat spots. Radii less than 5 feet require 12" frame
spacing, less than 4 feet require 8" spacing, and less than
3 feet require 6" spacing. Hang the factory edge of panels Wet the side of the panel that will be stretched by the bend
perpendicular to the framing so the panels bend longwise. with about 1 quart of water using a paint roller. Cover the
¼" panels should be doubled up; stagger the panels so no panel with plastic or face the wet sides of two sheets of drywall
joints line up. toward each other, and let sit for 1 hour before application.
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Architectural Details
rywall can be installed in layers or in conjunction
D with a 2× framework to bring a wide variety of
architectural detail to a room. From a simple series of
tiers wrapping the perimeter of a room (shown here)
to curved soffits or raised panels on walls, you can
replicate designs you’ve seen in high-end homes or
bring your own creation to life.
The same basic technique used to hang drywall
in multiple layers applies to adding built-up
drywall detail. Use a sharp utility knife and a rasp for
cutting as panel edges must be clean for finishing.
The use of adhesive is highly recommended to create
strong bonds between layers so the pieces hold
together tightly. Use Type G screws to hold panels
together while the adhesive sets up. Use L-bead to
create sharp, clean panel ends. Finish all seams and
beads with joint tape and at least three coats of
compound, following standard finishing techniques.
See pages 108 to 109 for more information on Add architectural detail to walls and ceilings by building up
installing drywall in multiple layers. decorative layers of drywall.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Work gloves T-square Screwgun or 3⁄8" drill L-bead
Eye protection Utility knife Drywall Adhesive
Tape measure Chalk line Drywall screws Joint compound
CREATING BUILT-UP DRYWALL DETAILS
For a more substantial
step soffit, build a
2× framework as a
base for the drywall.
As you lay out the
placement of the
new framing, make
sure to account
for the thickness
of the drywall in all
final dimensions.
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How to Add Decorative Tiers to a Ceiling
1
2
Measure and mark the width of the first tier on the ceiling Cut pieces of drywall to size, apply 3⁄8" beads of adhesive to
along each wall, then snap chalk lines to mark the perimeter. the backside, and install with drywall screws, following the
spacing chart on page 73.
3
4
Snap chalk lines for the second tier, then cut and install the Install L-bead on all exposed edges of each tier, then finish
drywall as described in step 2. Stagger all seams at corners with three coats of joint compound. Edges can also be
and along tiera runs. finished with flexible corner tape.
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Archways
hile an arch may be framed and drywalled on
W site, polyurethane inserts create a symmetrical
arch in the style of your choosing much more easily,
making them popular among pros and DIYers alike.
This arch was ordered to fit, so no further cutting or
fitting was needed. Note that polyurethane products
carve and sand like wood, so it’s better to run thicker
rather than thinner when attempting to match your
wall thickness.
WHERE TO CUT IN?
If you are simply adding an arch to an existing
passageway, use a hacksaw and utility knife to cut free
corner bead in the area that will receive the arch inserts.
Prying out bead will leave an indent for tape and mud.
Leave enough corner bead at the sides so arch overlaps
bead by about ¾".
Cut here
A framed and drywalled archway divides a large space into
smaller, more intimate space and makes a dramatic design
statement in the process.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Cut here
Work gloves Drywall screws
Eye protection Arch inserts
Framing lumber Panel adhesive
Hammer and nails Corner bead
Drywall panels Finishing materials
Screwgun
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How to Build an Archway
Attach drywall to all surfaces of the framed partition
wall except the bottom of the door header. Avoid
creating a drywall seam on the king stud.
2
1
Frame a partition wall with the alcove opening roughed
in as a rectangle. Secure the frame so it is plumb and
square to the ceiling joists, the adjacent wall studs (if
possible), and to the floor.
4
3
Install corner beads and arches so the arch inserts will overlap Tape, fill, and finish all seams, exposed fastener heads,
the bead by ¾". Typically, arches are secured with panel and corners of the partition wall. Trim and finish the arched
adhesive and screws. partition wall to match existing walls.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Work gloves
Preformed Domes Eye protection
Compass
Straightedge
omes and other three-dimensional features may be ordered
D preformed. The one we installed here is made of polyurethane.
The most difficult and critical steps in dome installation involve the
Screwgun
Drywall screws
modifications you must make to the ceiling framing. Joists under a roof Framing lumber
and the bottom chords of roof trusses are often under tension since the Spiral saw
split-leg action of roof rafters pushes out against the walls on which they
rest. Joists lower in the building may be supporting tremendous loads that Insulation (if necessary)
aren’t obvious. Therefore, before you cut through structural members, you Light fixture
must have a framing-modification plan drawn up by a qualified structural Caulk
engineer. In most localities, these drawings need to be approved by a Finishing materials
building inspector in order to get a building permit to do the work.
A simple domed shape transforms an ordinary ceiling into a grand design statement, especially when the dome is appointed
with an attractive ceiling light or chandelier. This Fypon dome (see Resources, page 267) is fabricated from urethane foam and
installed as one piece.
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Preformed Dome Styles
A plain round
dome is hard to
beat for versatility
and ease of
installation. This
fabricated dome
does require that
you either remove
sections of ceiling
joist or create
a lower ceiling
with a furred-
out framework.
Ornate domes add high drama,
especially when they include
a chandelier or an intricate
medallion.
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How to Install a Preformed Dome
2
1
Trace the dome onto cardboard in an upside-down position, Scribe a second, smaller circle inside the outline by setting
and transfer four alignment lines onto the outline. Since this a compass or scribe slightly less than the width of the flange
outline includes the flange, it’s larger than the hole you need and following along the outline. Use a straightedge and
to cut in the ceiling. marker to connect the opposite alignment marks, forming a
cross. Cut out the inside circle to make your template.
3 4
Screw the cardboard template to the ceiling. The alignment Cut through the drywall and framing at the edge of the
cross may be used to center a round dome or to make an oval template. Add re-enforcement framing as specified by a
dome parallel with a wall. Transfer the alignment marks to the qualified structural engineer. Add trimmers and blocking
ceiling with a pencil to guide positioning of the domes that are to the dome edges at screw locations. Add insulation if
oval or imperfectly round. necessary, above the dome.
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Cut a hole for the light fixture wiring in the center of the dome.
A hole saw that’s slightly bigger than the round electrical
fixture box works. For larger or more challenging openings,
use a spiral saw to cut the outline of the fixture box in
the dome.
6
5
Prepare for a fixture box if a light fixture or fan will be hung
in the dome. Drill a 1" hole in the center of the dome. Raise
framing above the ceiling opening to secure an electric fixture
box above the center of the opening. Dome specifications
will determine how far to recess the fixture box from the face
of the ceiling. Typically, the face of the fixture box should be
flush with the finished (visible) face of the dome. You may
temporarily attach the dome to help position the fixture box.
Hang your light or fan and caulk all air gaps through and
around the fixture box. Caulk the seam where the dome
flange meets the ceiling. Cover the fastener heads with joint
compound. Finish the dome with ceiling paint.
8
7
Apply polyurethane construction adhesive to the back of the
dome flange. Lift the dome into place with helpers, aligning
the ceiling and dome alignment marks and fitting the dome
around the electrical box. Attach the flange of the dome to the
blocking through the ceiling with drywall screws. Countersink
the screw heads slightly.
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Garage Drywall
hether or not to install finished interior walls are suitable for holding some fasteners. They can
W on your garage is mostly a matter of preference.
The only time wall surfaces are required is when your
be left unfinished, clear-coated for protection with
polyurethane finish (or comparable), or you may
garage shares a wall with your house (an attached choose to paint them. A lighter colored wall paint in
garage) or if one of the walls in your detached garage semi-gloss or gloss is a good choice. Sheet goods that
runs parallel to the house and is constructed within have a pleasing color or woodgrain may be finished
3 feet of the house. In both cases, only the shared or with either a clear coating or a protective deck/siding
closest walls need to be finished to block the spreading stain. Lauan plywood underlayment, for example, has
of fire. Typically, a wallcovering of ½-inch-thick a natural mahogany color that can be pleasing when
(minimum) drywall with taped seams is required. treated with a reddish exterior stain or clear coat. It
Some circumstances may demand that you install is also inexpensive, but it is thin (roughly ¼") and can
fire-rated, Type X drywall or a double layer of drywall. only support very light-duty fasteners with little load,
The seams between drywall panels on fireblocking such as a stickpin holding a wall calendar.
walls must be finished with tape embedded in joint
compound or with adhesive-backed fireblocking tape.
If the area above the garage is occupied by a
habitable room, the garage walls should be covered
with ½-inch drywall to provide rigidity and structure
and the ceiling should be finished with ⅝-inch-thick
Type X drywall. Ceiling seams should be covered with
tape and compound. Fastener heads do not need to
be covered with compound except for visual reasons.
If your goal is to create a garage with walls that are
finished to interior standards or serve to prevent fire
spreading, then drywall is an excellent wallcovering.
Although the price and availability of diverse building
materials fluctuates rather dramatically, drywall is
typically one of the more economical choices. But
because drywall is relatively susceptible to damage
from impact ( for example, from tools or bicycles)
and doesn’t withstand exposure to moisture well,
many homeowners choose other wallcoverings for
their garage. Exterior siding panels are thick enough
to hold fasteners and withstand moisture well, but
are relatively costly and most have a rougher texture
that can be bothersome on interior spaces. Interior
paneling has only minimal structural value, but it may
be more visually pleasing to you and some styles are
fairly inexpensive.
Finishing your garage walls with drywall or other panel
Plywood and oriented strand-board are popular products improves the appearance of your garage and also
products for garage walls. Thicker panels (½ to can serve practical functions such as forming a fireblock or
¾-inch-thick) give excellent rigidity to the walls and concealing wiring or plumbing.
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How to Hang Drywall in a Garage
1 2
Begin installing drywall panels in a corner. You can install Cut drywall pieces to fit around doors and windows. Take
the panels vertically or horizontally, depending on the wall special care if you are covering a firewall since any gaps will
height and how much cutting is involved. Unlike interior walls, need to be filled with joint compound and taped over. Make
garage walls are seldom a standard 8 ft. If you are finishing straight cuts that run full width or length by scoring through
a ceiling with drywall, cover the ceiling first so you can press the face paper with a utility knife and then snapping along the
the tops of the wall panels up against the ceiling panels. This scored line. Finish the cut by slicing through the paper of the
helps support the ends of the ceiling panels. Drive coarse 1¼" back face.
drywall screws every 16".
3 4
Mark and make cutouts for electrical and utility boxes. Use a Cover seams between drywall panels with joint compound; use
drywall saw, keyhole saw, or spiral saw to make the cutouts. drywall tape on walls that serve as firewalls. Cover tape with
Make sure the front edges of the boxes are flush with the two layers of feathered-out joint compound, and then cover
face of the drywall (move the boxes or add mud rings, if all fastener heads if you will be painting the walls. Give the
necessary). Finish installing all panels. panels a coat of drywall primer before painting.
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2" foil-faced
polyisocyanurate
1½" foil-faced
polyisocyanurate
Cap plate
½" drywall mounted
to 2 × 2 frame
Basement Prep:
2" polystyrene
Solution 1
1½"-deep
receptacle box
s a general rule, avoid insulating the interior
A side of your basement walls. It is best to leave
breathing space for the concrete or block so moisture
that enters through the walls is not trapped. If
your basement walls stay dry and show no signs of
Sole plate
dampness, however, adding some interior insulation
can increase the comfort level in your basement. If
you are building a stud wall for hanging wallcovering
materials, you can insulate between the studs with
rigid foam; do not use fiberglass batts, and do not
Interior insulation can be installed in the basement if your j
install a vapor barrier. If you are building a stud wall, it’s foundation walls are dry. It is important to keep the framed
a good idea to keep the wall away from the basement wall isolated from the basement wall with a seamless layer of
wall so there is an air channel between the two. rigid insulation board.
How to Insulate an Interior Basement Wall
1
2
Begin on the exterior wall by digging a trench and installing Insulate the rim joist with strips of 2"-thick isocyanurate rigid
a 2"-thick rigid foam insulation board up to the bottom of the insulation with foil facing. Be sure the insulation you purchase
siding and down at least 6" below grade. The main purpose is rated for interior exposure (exterior products can produce
of this insulation is to inhibit convection and air transfer in the bad vapors). Use adhesive to bond the insulation to the rim
wall above grade. joist, and then caulk around all the edges with acoustic sealant.
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Attach sheets of 2"-thick extruded polystyrene insulation to the
wall from the floor to the top of the wall. Make sure to clean
the wall thoroughly and let it dry completely before installing
the insulation.
2" extruded
polystyrene insulation
3
Seal and insulate the top of the foundation wall,
if it is exposed, with strips of 1½"-thick, foil-faced
isocyanurate insulation. Install the strips using the
same type of adhesive and caulk you used for the rim
joist insulation.
4
Install a stud wall by fastening the cap plate to the ceiling
joists and the sole plate to the floor. If you have space, allow
an air channel between the studs and the insulation. Do not
install a vapor barrier on the interior side of the wall.
Vapor barrier tape
5
Seal the gaps between the insulation boards with insulation
vapor barrier tape. Do not caulk gaps between the insulation 6
boards and the floor.
DRYWALL INSTALLATION 101
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Basement Prep:
Solution 2
all framing members can be attached directly to
W a concrete foundation wall to provide a support
for wall coverings and to house wires and pipes.
Because they have no significant structural purpose,
they are usually made with smaller stock called furring
strips, which can be 2 × 2 or 2 × 3 wood. Do not install
furring strips in conjunction with a vapor barrier or
insulation, and do not attach them to walls that are Furring strips serve primarily to create nailing surfaces for
not dry walls, with insulation on the exterior side. For drywall. Attach them to dry basement walls at web locations of
an insulated basement wall installation, see page 34. block wall where possible.
How to Attach Furring Strips to Dry Foundation Walls
1 2
Cut a 2 × 2 top plate to span the length of the wall. Mark the If the joists run parallel to the wall, you’ll need to install backers
furring-strip layout onto the bottom edge of the plate using between the outer joist and the sill plate to provide support for
16" O.C. spacing. Attach the plate to the bottom of the joists ceiling drywall. Make T-shaped backers from short 2 × 4s and
with 2½" drywall screws. The back edge of the plate should 2 × 2s. Install each so the bottom face of the 2 × 4 is flush
line up with the front of the blocks. with the bottom edge of the joists. Attach the top plate to the
foundation wall with its top edge flush with the top of the blocks.
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3 4
Install a bottom plate cut from pressure-treated 2 × 2 lumber Cut 2 × 2 furring strips to fit between the top and bottom
so the plate spans the length of the wall. Apply construction plates. Apply construction adhesive to the back of each
adhesive to the back and bottom of the plate, then attach it to furring strip, and position it on the layout marks on the plates.
the floor with a nailer. Use a plumb bob to transfer the furring- Nail along the length of each strip at 16" intervals.
strip layout marks from the top plate to the bottom plate.
ISOLATE THE WALL
Block wall
Stud wall
½" air space
OPTION: Leave a channel for the installation of wires or
supply pipes by installing pairs of vertically aligned furring
It consumes more floorspace, but a good alternative to
strips with a 2" gap between each pair.
a furred-out wall is to build a 2 × 4 stud wall parallel to
the foundation wall, but ½" away from it. This eliminates
NOTE: Consult local codes to ensure proper installation
any contact between the wall-framing members and the
of electrical or plumbing materials.
foundation wall. See page 34.
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Soundproofing
n making homes quieter, building professionals add Stopping airflow—through walls, ceilings,
I soundproofing elements to combat everything from
the hum of appliances to the roar of airliners. Many
floors, windows, and doors—is essential to any
soundproofing effort. (Even a 2-ft.-thick brick wall
of the techniques they use are simple improvements would not be very soundproof if it had cracks in the
involving common products and materials. What will mortar.) It’s also the simplest way to make minor
work best in your home depends upon a few factors, improvements. Because you’re dealing with air, this
including the types of noises involved, your home’s kind of soundproofing is a lot like weatherizing your
construction, and how much remodeling you have home: Add weatherstripping and door sweeps, seal
planned. For starters, it helps to know a little of the air leaks with caulk, install storm doors and windows,
science behind sound control. etc. The same techniques that keep out the cold also
Sound is created by vibrations traveling through block exterior noise and prevent sound from traveling
air. Consequently, the best ways to reduce sound between rooms.
transmission are by limiting airflow and blocking After reducing airflow, the next level of
or absorbing vibrations. Effective soundproofing soundproofing is to improve the sound-blocking
typically involves a combination of methods. qualities of your walls and ceilings. Engineers
Caulk
⁄8" Drywall
5
A
A
Soundproofing board
Insulation
Caulk
Adding soundproofing board and insulation are among the many simple ways you can reduce noise in your home.
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STC RATINGS FOR VARIOUS WALL & CEILING CONSTRUCTIONS*
ASSEMBLY STC RATING
Wood-frame Walls
2 × 4 wall; ½" drywall on both sides; no caulk 30
2 × 4 wall; ½" drywall on both sides; caulked 35
2 × 4 wall; ½" drywall on both sides; additional layer of 5⁄8" fire-resistant drywall on one side 38
2 × 4 wall; ½" drywall on both sides; additional layer of 5⁄8" fire-resistant drywall on both sides 40
2 × 4 wall; ½" drywall on both sides; insulated 39
Staggered-stud 2 × 4 wall; 5⁄8" fire-resistant drywall on each side; insulated 50
2 × 4 wall, soundproofing board (base layer) and 5⁄8" fire-resistant drywall on each side; insulated 50
2 × 4 wall with resilient steel channels on one side; 5⁄8" fire-resistant drywall on both sides; insulated 52
Steel-frame Walls
35⁄8" metal studs, spaced 24" on-center; 5⁄8" fire-resistant drywall on both sides 40
35⁄8" metal studs, spaced 24" on-center, ½" fire-resistant drywall single layer on one side, doubled on other side; insulated 48
2½" metal studs, spaced 24" on-center; soundproofing board (base layer) and ½" fire-resistant drywall on both sides; insulated 50
Wood-frame Floor/Ceiling
Drywall below; subfloor and resilient (vinyl) flooring above 32
5
⁄8" fire-resistant drywall attached to resilient steel channels below; subfloor, pad, and carpet above 48
Double layer 5⁄8" fire-resistant drywall attached to resilient steel channels below; subfloor, pad, and carpet above Up to 60
*All assemblies are sealed with caulk, except where noted. Ratings are approximate.
rate soundproofing performance of wall and is best. Adding layers of drywall increases mass,
ceiling assemblies using a system called Sound helping a wall resist the vibrational force of sound
Transmission Class, or STC. The higher the STC (⅝-inch fire-resistant drywall works best because
rating, the more sound is blocked by the assembly. of its greater weight and density). Insulation and
For example, if a wall is rated at 30 to 35 STC, soundproofing board absorb sound. Soundproofing
loud speech can be understood through the wall. board is available through drywall suppliers
At 42 STC, loud speech is reduced to a murmur. and manufacturers (see page 273). Some board
At 50 STC, loud speech cannot be heard through products are gypsum-based; others are lightweight
the wall. fiberboard. Installing resilient steel channels
Standard construction methods typically result over the framing or old surface and adding a
in a 28 to 32 STC rating, while soundproofed walls new layer of drywall increases mass, while the
and ceilings can carry ratings near 50. To give you channels allow the surface to move slightly and
an idea of how much soundproofing you need, a absorb vibrations. New walls built with staggered
sleeping room at 40 to 50 STC is quiet enough for studs and insulation are highly effective at
most people; a reading room is comfortable at 35 reducing vibration.
to 40 STC. For another gauge, consider the fact In addition to these permanent improvements,
that increasing the STC rating of an assembly by 10 you can reduce noise by decorating with soft
reduces the perceived sound levels by 50 percent. The materials that absorb sound. Rugs and carpet,
chart above lists the STC ratings of several wall and drapery, fabric wall hangings, and soft furniture help
ceiling assemblies. reduce atmospheric noise within a room. Acoustical
Improvements to walls and ceilings usually ceiling tiles effectively absorb and help contain sound
involve increasing the mass, absorbancy, or within a room but do little to prevent sound from
resiliency of the assembly; often, a combination entering the room.
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REDUCING NOISE
Cover switch and receptacle boxes with foam
gaskets to prevent air leaks. Otherwise, seal around
Stop airflow between rooms by sealing the joints where
the box perimeter with acoustic sealant or caulk,
walls meet floors. With finished walls, remove the shoe
and seal around the knockout where the cables
molding and spray insulating foam, acoustic sealant, or
enter the box.
non-hardening caulk under the baseboards. Also seal
around door casings. With new walls, seal along the top
and bottom plates.
Soundproof doors between rooms by adding a sweep at Relocate loud ductwork. If a duct supplying a quiet room
the bottom and weatherstripping along the stops. If doors has a takeoff point close to that of a noisy room, move one
are hollow-core, replacing them with solid-core units will or both ducts so their takeoff points are as distant from
increase soundproofing performance. Soundproof workshop each other as possible.
and utility room doors with a layer of acoustical tiles.
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Installing Resilient Steel Channels
Joist
Joist
Insulation
Channel
Resilient channel
Resilient channel
5
⁄8" Drywall
Stud
Insulation
5
⁄8" Drywall
On ceilings, install channels perpendicular to the joists, spaced 24" on-center. On walls, use the same installation
Fasten at each joist with 1¼" Type W drywall screws, driven through the channel techniques as with the ceiling
flange. Stop the channels 1" short of all walls. Join pieces on long runs by application, installing the channels
overlapping the ends and fastening through both pieces. Insulate the joist bays horizontally. Position the bottom channel
with unfaced fiberglass or other insulation, and install 5⁄8" fire-resistant drywall 2" from the floor and the top channel
perpendicular to the channels. For double-layer application, install the second layer within 6" of the ceiling. Insulate the stud
of drywall perpendicular to the first. cavities and install the drywall vertically.
How to Build Staggered-stud Partition Walls
2
1
Frame new partition walls using 2 × 6 plates. Space the studs Weave R-11 unfaced fiberglass blanket insulation horizontally
12" apart, staggering them so alternate studs are aligned with between the studs. Cover each side with one or more layers of
opposite sides of the plates. Seal under and above the plates 5
⁄8" fire-resistant drywall.
with acoustic sealant.
DRYWALL INSTALLATION 107
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Multiple Drywall Layers A
B
nstalling drywall in multiple layers is an effective
I means of soundproofing and also increases the
fire-rating of walls and ceilings. Drywall can be heavy,
E
especially when installed in layers, so it’s important to D
install panels correctly to prevent sagging, cracks, and
F
popped fasteners. Always fasten both the base layer
(which can be standard drywall or a soundproofing
C
board) and the face layer with the correct number
of screws (see page 73). Panels can be secured Specialty materials can help eliminate sound transmission
with fasteners alone, though many manufacturers better than drywall alone. High-density gypsum and cellulose
recommend the use of panel adhesive. It’s best to fiber soundproofing board (A) provides excellent noise
install the base layer vertically and the face layer attenuation. MLV (mass-loaded vinyl) sheeting (B) can double
horizontally, staggering the joints. If panels must be a wall’s soundproofing value. Type G drywall screws (C)
have coarse threads to hold drywall panels together as the
hung in the same direction, stagger parallel seams
panel adhesive (D) sets to create a strong bond. Acoustical
between layers by at least 10 inches. caulk (E) seals gaps to absorb noise vibrations. And for
See pages 104 to 107 for more on soundproofing added protection, install closed cell foam gaskets (F) behind
walls and ceilings. electrical coverplates.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Tape measure Caulk gun Type G drywall screws Panel Adhesive
Screwgun or 3⁄8" drill Drywall panels Acoustical caulk
Building code requires that the front face of electrical boxes
be flush with the finished wall surface. In new construction,
attach boxes so they extend past the framing of the combined Base layer
thickness of the drywall layers. If you’re covering an old
¼" gaps
surface, use extension rings to bring existing boxes flush.
Extension ring–
shown cutaway
Face layer
At inside corners, including wall-to-ceiling joints, stagger
the joints between the layers, leaving a ¼" gap between
panels. Seal all gaps with acoustical caulk to help absorb
sound vibration.
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How to Hang Multiple Layers of Drywall
To install the face layer, use adhesive to ensure a strong bond
to the base. Apply 3⁄8" beads of adhesive every 16" across the
backside of the panels.
2
1
Install the base layer of drywall or soundproofing board
parallel to the framing, using the screws and spacing found
on page 73. Leave a ¼" gap around the perimeter of each
surface (at corners, ceilings, and along floors). After panels
are installed, seal the perimeter gaps with acoustical caulk.
Seal the perimeter gaps at corners, ceiling, and along floors
with acoustical caulk. Also seal around electrical boxes and
HVAC ducts.
4
3
Install the face layer of drywall perpendicular to the framing
and joints of the base layer, spacing screws as recommended
on page 73. Make sure to stagger the seams between layers.
Use Type G screws to temporarily hold panels together as the
adhesive sets up.
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Soundproof Room
ome theaters are quickly becoming a common Adding mass to walls and ceilings is an effective
H feature in many homes. And while finding an
affordable yet impressive multimedia system is no
way to block sound. In new construction, staggered-
stud partitions (page 107) or double stud partitions
longer a problem, finding a space within your home (two adjacent rows of studs) are possibilities. Hanging
to enjoy it may not be so easy. The walls of the average soundproofing board, sound-rated drywall, or multiple
house are not designed to contain extreme sound layers of drywall can increase STC ratings significantly.
levels. To combat this issue, there are numerous Two of the most effective systems are resilient channels
soundproofing products and materials available to help (page 107) and mass loaded vinyl (MLV) underlayment,
keep those on both sides of a home theater wall happy. a heavy vinyl sheeting that many manufacturers claim
As discussed on page 105, engineers rate the can more than double a wall’s STC rating.
soundproofing performance of wall and ceiling For sound absorption, closed-cell acoustical foam
assemblies using a system called Sound Transmission matting can be used to insulate between drywall
Class (STC). Standard partition walls carry STC ratings panels and framing. Similarly, padded tape minimizes
of 28 to 32. Determining an appropriate STC rating transmission of sound vibration between wall panels and
for your home theater is dependent on a number framing, and can be used to line resilient channels for
of factors, such as the power of your multimedia added insulation. Sound isolation mounting clips contain
system and the type of room opposite the wall. But a molded neoprene to provide added insulation between
minimum of 60 STC is adequate for most. Remember: resilient channels and framing. Vibration pads made of
The higher the STC rating, the more sound is blocked. cork and closed-cell acoustical foam or neoprene isolate
But blocking sound is not the only consideration. sound vibration to reduce transmission between objects.
The low frequencies generated by subwoofers cause When fastening soundproofing and drywall panels
vibrations, which in turn create unwanted noise to resilient channels, leave a ¼-inch gap between all
within the room. The most effective approach for panels at corners and fill the gaps with acoustical
soundproofing a home theater is to install both sound caulk. In fact, all gaps, seams, and cracks should be
barriers to minimize sound escaping and sound filled with acoustical caulk. The more airtight a home
absorbers to reduce noise within the room. theater, the more soundproof it is.
Closed-cell foam
Padding tape
Insulation
5
⁄8" fire-rated gypsum board
Sound-board joints caulk
Stagger joints
¼" closed-cell Corner detail
Floor gap filled with caulk Mass loaded vinyl
Sound-deadening board
2" vibration pads
Caulk
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Soundproofing a Room
Use contact cement to glue ¼" closed-cell acoustical matting Apply self-adhesive padded tape to resilient channels or
directly to existing wall and ceiling surfaces or to the backside directly to the edges of framing members.
of drywall panels in new construction.
Install 2" vibration pads every 2 ft.
between flooring and installed drywall
panels. Fasten baseboard into framing
only, not into vibration pads.
Staple MLV (mass loaded vinyl)
Seal all gaps between panels
underlayment directly to framing
and at wall and ceiling joints
members, between layers of drywall
with acoustical caulk.
and soundproofing board, or directly
to existing wall and ceiling surfaces.
Overlap seams by at least 6".
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Finishing Drywall
he process of finishing drywall involves distinct
T steps: Tape seams; cover fastener heads; install
corner bead; apply a second coat of joint compound;
apply a third coat of joint compound; sand (if
necessary); apply a skim coat or finished texture
(optional); prime and paint.
The process is not as complicated or time-
consuming as the list of tasks may make it sound. By
simply doing careful work when applying finishing
materials you can eliminate most of the sanding
(which happens to be the messiest part). The most
important part of the job—and the area where most
people take ill-advised shortcuts—is in the three
rounds of joint compound application. The key here is
to use taping knives of increasingly larger size, ending
with a knife that has a blade at least 12 inches wide.
By feathering out the joint compound on each side
of the seam with a 12-inch knife, you will create a
smooth compound layer that’s a full 24 inches wide
and virtually impossible to detect after the wall is
primed and painted.
Once the wall is mudded, a light sanding and a
coat of drywall primer are all that’s needed to prepare
for a fine painted finish. If you wish, you can apply
a texture or a skim coat to the wall or ceiling before
painting to create an interesting surface.
In this chapter:
U Recommended Levels of Drywall Finish
U Installing Corner Bead
U Taping Drywall Seams
U Fixing Problems & Final Inspection
U Sanding Drywall
U Textures & Skim Coats
U Priming & Painting Drywall
FINISHING DRYWALL 113
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Recommended Levels of Drywall Finish
he main purpose of finishing drywall is to create Level 1
T an acceptable base surface for the desired
decorative finish. For example, walls and ceilings that
“All joints and interior angles shall have tape set in
joint compound. Surface shall be free of excess joint
will be illuminated by bright light or finished with compound. Tool marks and ridges are acceptable.”
gloss paint or thin wallcovering require a smooth, Frequently specified in plenum areas above J
consistent surface to prevent taped seams, covered ceilings, in attics, in areas where the assembly
fasteners, and minor imperfections from showing would generally be concealed or in building service
through—a condition called photographing. On corridors, and other areas not normally open to public
the other hand, surfaces that will be sprayed with view. Accessories (beads, trims, or moldings) are
a texture don’t need as polished a drywall finish, optional at specifier discretion in corridors and other
and areas that only need to meet fire codes may be areas with pedestrian traffic.
acceptable with a single tape coat. Some degree of sound and smoke control is w
For years, there were no universal guidelines for provided; in some geographic areas this level is
what was considered an “acceptable” drywall finish, referred to as “firetaping.” Where a fire-resistance
which often left contractors and homeowners at rating is required for the gypsum board assembly,
odds over what “industry standard finish” actually details of construction shall be in accordance with
meant. But recently four major trade associations reports of fire tests of assemblies that have met the
devised a set of guidelines that have been accepted fire-rating requirement. Tape and fastener heads need
industry-wide. Below are their recommendations for not be covered with joint compound.
finishing drywall.
Level 2
Level 0 “All joints and interior angles shall have tape
“No taping, finishing, or accessories required.” embedded in joint compound and wiped with a
This level of finish may be useful in temporary joint knife leaving a thin coating of joint compound w
construction or whenever the final decoration has not over all joints and interior angles. Fastener heads
been determined. and accessories shall be covered with a coat of joint
Level 0 Level 1
w
w
A
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Level 2 Level 3, 4, 5
compound. Surface shall be free of excess joint marks and ridges. Note: It is recommended that the
compound. Tool marks and ridges are acceptable. prepared surface be coated with a drywall primer
Joint compound applied over the body of the tape at prior to the application of final finishes. See painting/
the time of tape embedment shall be considered a wallcovering specification in this regard.”
separate coat of joint compound and shall satisfy the This level should be specified where flat paints,
conditions of this level.” light textures, or wallcoverings are to be applied. In
This level is specified where water-resistant critical lighting areas, flat paints applied over light
gypsum backing board (ASTM C 630) is used as textures tend to reduce joint photographing. Gloss,
a substrate for tile; may be specified in garages, semi-gloss, and enamel paints are not recommended
warehouse storage, or other similar areas where over this level of finish.
surface appearance is not of primary concern. The weight, texture, and sheen level of
wallcoverings applied over this level of finish should
Level 3 be carefully evaluated. Joints and fasteners must be
“All joints and interior angles shall have tape adequately concealed if the wallcovering material
embedded in joint compound and one additional is lightweight, contains limited pattern, has a gloss
coat of joint compound applied over all joints and finish, or any combination of these finishes is present.
interior angles. Fastener heads and accessories Unbacked vinyl wallcoverings are not recommended
shall be covered with two separate coats of joint over this level of finish.
compound. All joint compound shall be smooth
and free of tool marks and ridges. Note: It is Level 5
recommended that the prepared surface be coated “All joints and interior angles shall have tape
with a drywall primer prior to the application of final embedded in joint compound and two separate
finishes. See painting/wallcovering specification in coats of joint compound applied over all flat joints
this regard.” and one separate coat of joint compound applied
Typically specified in appearance areas that are over interior angles. Fastener heads and accessories
to receive heavy- or medium-texture (spray or hand shall be covered with three separate coats of joint
applied) finishes before final painting, or where heavy- compound. A thin skim coat of joint compound or a
grade wallcoverings are to be applied as the final material manufactured especially for this purpose,
decoration, this level of finish is not recommended shall be applied to the entire surface. The surface shall
where smooth, painted surfaces or light-to-medium be smooth and free of tool marks and ridges. Note: It
wallcoverings are specified. is recommended that the prepared surface be coated
with a drywall primer prior to the application of finish
Level 4 paint. See painting specification in this regard.”
“All joints and interior angles shall have tape This level of finish is highly recommended where
embedded in joint compound and two separate coats gloss, semi-gloss, enamel, or non-textured flat paints
of joint compound applied over all flat joints and one are specified or where severe lighting conditions
separate coat of joint compound applied over interior occur. This highest quality finish is the most effective
angles. Fastener heads and accessories shall be method to provide a uniform surface and minimize
covered with three separate coats of joint compound. the possibility of joint photographing and of fasteners
All joint compound shall be smooth and free of tool showing through the final decoration.
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Crimping tool
Installing Corner Bead
fter the drywall is hung, the next step is to install corner bead to
A protect outside corners, soffits, drywall-finished openings, and
any other outside angles. Corner bead provides a clean, solid-edge wall
corner that can withstand moderate abuse. It is available in a variety of
styles for a variety of applications (see page 49). The three most common
types are metal, vinyl, and paper-faced beads.
Metal beads can be fastened with nails, screws, or a crimper tool.
Vinyl beads are easily installed with spray adhesive and staples, or can be
embedded in compound, similar to paper-faced beads.
Metal corner bead installed over
A number of specialty beads are also available, including flexible
steel framing can be fastened using
archway beads for curved corners and J-bead for covering panel ends a crimper tool. Cut the bead to size
that meet finished surfaces. Decorative bullnose beads and caps for 2- and position in the corner (see step 1
and 3-way corners are easy ways to add interesting detail to a room. below), then crimp every 4 to 6".
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Work gloves Screwgun or drill Corner bead 1½" ring-shank Archway bead
Eye protection Stapler Spray adhesive drywall nails Metal file
Aviation snips Hammer 1¼" drywall screws ½" staples
How to Install Metal Corner Bead
Cut metal corner bead to length using Use full lengths of corner bead where
aviation snips, leaving a ½" gap at the possible. If you must join two lengths,
floor. Position the bead so the raised 2 cut the two pieces to size, then butt
spine is centered over the corner and together the finished ends. Make sure
the flanges are flat against both walls. the ends are perfectly aligned and the
spine is straight along the length of the
corner. File ends, if necessary.
3
Starting at the top, fasten the bead
flanges with drywall nails, driven
every 9" and about ¼" from the edge.
Alternate sides with each nail to keep
1 the bead centered. The nails must not
project beyond the raised spine. Butt joint
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How to Install Vinyl Corner Bead
2
1
Cut vinyl bead to length and test fit over corner. Spray vinyl Quickly install the bead, pressing the flanges into the
adhesive evenly along the entire length of the corner, then adhesive. Fasten the bead in place with ½" staples every 8".
along the bead.
How to Install Corner Bead at Three-way Corners
Fasten the first bead in place, then test
fit each subsequent piece, trimming any FILE EDGES
1 overlapping flanges. Align the tips of the
two pieces and fasten in place. Install
additional beads in the same way.
2
Where two or more outside corners
meet, trim back the overlapping flanges
of each bead to 45° mitered ends using Blunt any sharp edges or points
aviation snips. The ends don’t have created by metal bead at three-
to match perfectly, but they should way corners using a metal file.
not overlap.
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How to Install Flexible Bead for an Archway
1 2
Install standard corner bead on the straight lengths of the Flatten flexible vinyl bead along the archway to determine the
corners (see pages 116 to 117) so it is ½" from the floor and length needed, then add 3". Cut two pieces of bead to this
2" from the start of the arch. length, one for each side of the archway.
3
Spray one side of the archway with vinyl adhesive, then spray
the bead. Immediately install the bead; work from one end, VARIATION: To substitute for flexible bead, snip one flange
pushing the bead tight into the corner along the arch. Secure of standard vinyl bead at 1" intervals. Be careful not to cut
with ½" staples every 2". Trim the overlapping end so it meets into or through the spine.
the end of the straight length of corner bead.
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How to Install L-Bead
1
2
L-bead caps the ends of drywall panels that abut finished Fasten L-bead to the drywall with ½" staples or drywall
surfaces such as paneling or wood trim, providing a finished screws every 6", then finish with a minimum of three coats
edge. The drywall is installed 1⁄8" from the finished surface, of compound (see pages 121 to 127). After final sanding,
then the L-bead is positioned tight against the panel, so its peel back the protective strip to expose the finished edge of
finished edge covers the edge of the adjacent surface. the L-bead.
INSTALLING VINYL BULLNOSE CORNER BEAD
Drywall manufacturers offer a variety of corner caps to ease
the process of finishing soffits and other openings trimmed
out with bullnose corner bead.
Vinyl bullnose corner bead is installed with vinyl adhesive
and ½" staples, just like standard vinyl bead (see page 117).
However, bullnose beads that have shallow curves may
require that the ends of drywall panels be cut back (inset).
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Taping coat
Taping Drywall Seams Final coat
inishing newly installed drywall is satisfying work
F that requires patience and some basic skill, but it’s
easier than most people think. Beginners make their
Filler coat
biggest, and most lasting, mistakes by rushing the job
and applying too much compound in an attempt to
eliminate coats. But even for professionals, drywall
finishing involves three steps, and sometimes more, thicker compound from another container. Remix
plus the final sanding. periodically if the liquid begins to separate and rise
The first step is the taping coat, when you tape to the top. If pre-mixed compound is moldy or foul-
the seams between the drywall panels. The taping is smelling, it is unusable and must be discarded.
critical to the success of the entire job, so take your Allow each coat of compound to set up and dry
time here, and make sure the tape is smooth and thoroughly before applying the next coat. Setting time
fully adhered before it’s allowed to dry. If you’re using is dependent on a number of factors, such as size
standard metal corner bead on the outside corners, of project and type of compound used, but for most
install it before starting the taping coat; paper-faced finishing projects, count on one day per coat—a total
beads go on after the tape. The screw heads get of three days. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions
covered with compound at the beginning of each coat. for product specifications. To speed up the process,
After the taping comes the second, or filler, coat. compound accelerants are available, or use a fan.
This is when you leave the most compound on the As you work, keep your compound smooth and
wall, filling in the majority of each depression. With workable by mixing it in the mud pan frequently,
the filler coat, the walls start to look good, but they folding it over with the drywall knife. Try to remove
don’t have to be perfect; the third coat will take care dried chunks, and throw away any mud that gets dirty
of minor imperfections. Lightly scrape the second or has been added to and scraped off the wall too
coat with a taping knife, then apply the final coat. many times. Always let your compound dry completely
If you still see imperfections, add more compound between coats. If you have a large ceiling area to finish,
before sanding. it may be practical to rent a pair of drywall stilts.
For best results, especially with fiberglass tape, use
a setting-type compound for the taping coat. It creates
a strong bond and shrinks very little. Because setting- TOOLS & MATERIALS
type compound hardens by chemical reaction, once
it begins to set up the process cannot be slowed or Work gloves Inside corner taping knife
stopped, rendering excess compound unusable. Make Eye protection Mud pan
sure to prepare only as much as you can use in the Screwdriver Setting-type joint compound
amount of work time specified by the manufacturer. Utility knife (for tape coat)
Use lightweight setting-type compound because it is All-purpose compound (for
5-gal. bucket
easier to sand. filler and finish coat)
For the other two coats, use an all-purpose ½" electric drill
compound. These drying-type compounds are with mixing paddle Cool potable water
available premixed and can be thinned with water Hand masher Paper joint tape
if setup begins prematurely. Add small amounts 4, 6, 10, and 12" Self-adhesive fiberglass
of water to avoid over-thinning and mix using taping knives mesh tape
a hand masher. If compound is too thin, add
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Preparing Joint Compound
Use a heavy-duty drill with a mixing paddle to thoroughly mix
compound to a stiff, yet workable consistency (see below).
Use a low speed to avoid whipping air into the compound. Do
not overwork setting-type compound, as it will begin setup.
For powdered drying-type compound, remix after 15 minutes.
Clean tools thoroughly immediately after use.
Mix powdered setting-type compound with cool, potable
water in a clean 5-gal. bucket, following the manufacturer’s
directions. All tools and materials must be clean; dirty water,
old compound, and other contaminants will affect compound
set time and quality.
Joint compound should appear smooth in consistency and stiff
enough so as not to slide off a trowel or taping knife.y
Use a hand masher to loosen premixed compound. If the
compound has been around awhile and is stiff, add a little
water and mix to an even consistency.
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How to Apply the Taping Coat
Inspect the entire drywall installation and fill any gaps wider
than ¼" with setting-type compound. Smooth off excess so it’s
flush with the panel face. Also remove any loose paper and fill
in with compound.
1
2
On tapered seams, apply an even bed layer of setting-type
compound over the seam, about 1⁄8" thick and 6" wide using a
6" taping knife.
NOTE: With paper tape, you can use premixed taping or all-
purpose compound instead.
Center the tape over the seam and lightly embed it in the
compound, making sure the tape is smooth and straight. At the
end of the seam, tear off the tape so it extends all the way into
inside corners and up to the corner bead at outside corners.
3
4
Using a 4 or 6" taping knife, smear compound over each
screw head, forcing it into the depression. Firmly drag the
knife in the opposite direction, removing excess compound
from the panel surface.
VARIATION: Cover an entire row of screw heads in the field of
a panel with one steady, even pass of compound. Use a 6"
taping knife and apply a thin coat.
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6
5
Smooth the tape with the taping knife, working out from the At inside corners, smooth the final bit of tape by reversing
center. Apply enough pressure to force compound from the knife and carefully pushing it toward the corner. Carefully
underneath the tape, so the tape is flat and has a thin layer remove excess compound along the edges of the bed layer
beneath it. with the taping knife.
On vertical butt seams, apply an even 1⁄8"-thick,
4"-wide bed layer of setting-type compound
using a 4" taping knife. Work in one direction
and completely fill the V-notch.
7
8
Center the tape over the butt seam and lightly
embed it in the compound. As you smooth
the tape, apply enough pressure to leave
only a 1⁄16" layer of compound beneath the
tape. Smooth the edges to remove excess
compound. Allow to dry and then coat with a
thin layer of compound.
(continued)
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Tape inside corners by folding precreased paper tape in half
to create a 90° angle.
9
10
Apply an even layer of compound, about 1⁄8" thick and 3" wide,
to both sides of the corner using a 4" taping knife. Embed the
tape into the compound using a taping knife.
Carefully smooth and flatten both sides
of the tape, removing excess compound TOOL TIP
to leave only a thin layer beneath. Make
sure the center of the tape is aligned
straight with the corner.
11
An inside corner knife can embed
VARIATION: Paper-faced metal inside
both sides of the tape in one
corner bead produces straight,
pass; draw the knife along the
durable corners with little fuss. To
tape, applying enough pressure
install the bead, embed it into a thin
to leave a thin layer of compound
layer of compound, then smooth
beneath. Feather each side
the paper, as with a paper-tape
using a straight 6" taping knife,
inside corner.
if necessary.
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VARIATION: To install paper-faced outside corner bead,
spread an even layer of compound on each side of the
corner using a 6" taping knife. Press the bead into the
compound and smooth the paper flanges with the knife.
12
Finish outside corner bead with a 6" knife. Apply the
compound while dragging the knife along the raised spine
of the bead. Make a second pass to feather the outside
edge of the compound, then a third dragging along the bead
again. Smooth any areas where the corner bead meets taped
corners or seams.
How to Apply Mesh Tape
To use self-adhesive mesh tape on seams, apply the tape over
the seam center so it’s straight and flat. Run mesh tape to
corners, then cut using a sharp utility knife.
1
2
Coat the mesh with an even layer of compound, about 1⁄8" thick
using a 6" taping knife. Smooth the joint with a 10" or 12"
knife, removing excess compound.
NOTE: Use setting-type compound for the first coat.
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How to Apply the Filler Coat
1
Apply an even layer of compound to both sides of each
inside corner using a 6" taping knife. Smooth one side
at a time, holding the blade about 15° from horizontal
and lightly dragging the point along the corner. Make
a second pass to remove excess compound along the
outer edges. Repeat, if necessary.
2
After the taping coat has dried completely, scrape off any
ridges and chunks. Begin second-coating at the screw heads
using a 6" taping knife and all-purpose compound (see
page 122).
NOTE: Setting-type compound and drying-type topping
compound are also acceptable.
3 4
Coat tapered seams with an even layer of compound using a After feathering both edges of the compound, make a pass
12" taping knife. Whenever possible, apply the coat in one down the center of the seam, applying even pressure to the
direction and smooth it in the opposite. Feather the sides of blade. This pass should leave the seam smooth and even,
the compound first, holding the blade almost flat and applying with the edges feathered out to nothing. The joint tape should
pressure to the outside of the blade, so the blade just skims be completely covered.
over the center of the seam.
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For butt seams, use the same technique as for tapered seams,
however, feather the edges out 8 to 10" on each side to help
mask the seam. Apply compound in thin layers and smooth
out as needed.
Second-coat the outside corners, one side at a time using a
12" knife. Apply an even layer of compound, then feather
the outside edge by applying pressure to the outside of the
knife—enough so that the blade flexes and removes most of
the compound along the edge but leaves the corner intact.
Make a second pass with the blade riding along the raised
spine, applying even pressure.
How to Apply the Final Coat
After the filler coat has dried, lightly scrape all of the joints, then third-coat the screws. Apply the final coat, following the same
steps used for the filler coat—but do the seams first, then the outside corners, followed by the inside corners. Use a 12" knife
and spread the compound a few inches wider than the joints in the filler coat. Remove most of the wet compound, filling
scratches and low spots but leaving only traces elsewhere. Make several passes, if necessary, until the surface is smooth and
there are no knife tracks or other imperfections. Carefully blend intersecting joints so there’s no visible transition.
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How to Flat-tape
1 2
Trim any loose paper along the drywall edge with a utility knife. Cover the tape with a 4"-wide layer of setting-type taping
If the gap between the drywall and the object is wider than compound. Smooth the joint, leaving just enough compound
¼", fill it with joint compound and let it dry. Cover the joint to conceal the tape. Let the first coat dry completely, then
with self-adhesive mesh joint tape, butting the tape’s edge add two more thin coats using a 6" taping knife. Feather the
against the object without overlapping the object. outside edge of the joint to nothing.
How to Round Inside Corners
Lightly drag the knife across the seam, perpendicular to the
corner, to sculpt a rounded base for the filler coat. Work
1 in the same direction along the entire length of the seam,
then make a second pass, pulling the knife across in the
opposite direction.
2
To soften off-angle inside corners, round them off. Center self-
adhesive fiberglass mesh tape over the seam, and smooth it
flat. Apply a 1⁄8"-thick layer of compound 4" wide along each
side of the mesh using a 6" taping knife.
NOTE: Use setting-type compound to prevent
significant shrinkage.
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Once the tape is completely covered, smooth out any ridges
and feather the edges of the compound along the length of
the seam.
3
4
After the tape coat is dry, apply another 1⁄8" layer of setting-
type compound along the seam, then use a 12" taping knife
to create the rounded corner, following the same technique as
in step 2.
After the fill coat has dried, lightly scrape ridges and high
spots, then apply a thin layer of all-purpose or topping
compound for the final coat, following the same technique as
for the previous two coats.
5
VARIATION: Flexible corner beads are available for
off-angle joints that are prone to cracking, such as
those between pitched ceilings and flat kneewalls. The
vinyl center crease flexes along with normal structural
shifts. Install flexible bead with adhesive or embed it in
compound; keep the center crease free of compound.
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Fixing Problems & Final Inspection
fter the final coat of joint compound has dried
A but before you begin sanding, inspect the entire
finish job for flaws. If you discover scrapes, pitting,
or other imperfections, add another coat of joint
compound. Repair any damaged or overlooked
areas such as cracked seams and over-cut holes for
electrical boxes prior to sanding.
During your inspection, make sure to check that all
seams are acceptably feathered out. To check seams,
hold a level or 12-inch taping knife perpendicularly
across the seam; fill concave areas with extra layers of
compound and correct any convex seams that crown Scratches, dents, and other minor imperfections can be
more than 1⁄16 inch. smoothed over with a thin coat of all-purpose compound.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Work gloves Sanding block Utility knife 220-grit sanding screen
Eye protection or pole sander Self-adhesive fiberglass or 150-grit sandpaper
6 and 12" taping knives All-purpose joint compound mesh tape
Common Taping Problems
Pitting occurs when compound is overmixed or applied with Mis-cut holes for electrical boxes can be flat taped. Cover
too little pressure to force out trapped air bubbles. Pitting can the gap with self-adhesive mesh tape, and cover with three
be fixed with a thin coat of compound. If trapped air bubbles coats of all-purpose compound. Precut repair patches are
are present, scrape lightly before covering with compound. also available (shown).
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Concave seams can be filled with an extra layer or two of all- For seams crowned more than 1⁄16", carefully sand along the
purpose compound, repeating the filler and final coats (see center (see pages 133 to 135), but do not expose the tape.
pages 126 to 127). Check the seam with a level. If it’s still crowned, add a layer of
compound with a 12" knife, removing all of it along the seam’s
center and feathering it out toward the outside edges. After it
dries, apply a final coat, if necessary.
Bubbled or loose tape occurs when the bed layer is too Cracked seams are often the result of compound that
thin, which causes a faulty bond between the tape and has dried too quickly or shrunk. Re-tape the seam if the
compound. Cut out small, soft areas with a utility knife and existing tape and compound is intact; otherwise, cut out
retape. Large runs of loose tape will have to be fully removed any loose material. In either case, make sure to fill the crack
before retaping. with compound.
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Sanding Drywall
anding is the final step in finishing drywall. The As you work, make sure to sand only the
S goal is to remove excess joint compound and
crowned seams, smooth out tool and lap marks, and
compound rather than the panels. Face paper can
scuff easily, necessitating a thin coat of compound
feather the edges so they blend into the panel surface. to repair. Do not use power sanders on drywall; they
How much sanding is required depends on the quality are too difficult to control. Even brief lingering can
of the taping job and the level of finish you need for remove too much compound or mar panels.
the final decoration (see pages 114 to 115). Sanding drywall is a messy job. The fine dust
Sanding drywall is a two-step process: pole generated will easily find its way into all areas of the
sanding to remove excess compound and feather home if the work area is not contained. Sealing all
edges, and hand sanding to take care of the final doorways and cracks with sheet plastic and masking
smoothing work. tape will help prevent dust from leaving the work
Pole sanders have a flat head on a swivel that zone. However, wet sanding may be more practical in
holds sandpaper or sanding screen. The length of the some instances. With wet sanding, or sponging, the
pole keeps you distanced from dust and brings ceiling abrasive papers and screens are replaced by a damp
seams within reach. You don’t have to apply much sponge that is used to smooth the water-soluble
pressure to get results; simply push the head along the compound and blend it with the surface. Very little
seam and let the weight of the tool do the work. You dust becomes airborne.
can use a 120-grit sanding screen or sandpaper for But if your goal is to eradicate dust, your best
joints finished with all-purpose compound, or you can bet is to use a dust-free sanding system. Available at
use 150-grit on lightweight or topping compounds, most rental centers, dust-free systems contain hoses
which are softer. with sanding attachments that connect to a wet/dry
Hand sanding can be done with a block sander vacuum to cut dust by nearly 95 percent. A water filter
or dry sanding sponge. The object of this step is to can be added to the system to capture most of the
smooth all the joints and create a uniform surface, dust and spare your vacuum’s filter.
so again you need not apply much pressure to get
the job done. Use 150- to 220-grit sanding screen or
sandpaper for final sanding. MARK LOW SPOTS
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Work gloves Broom or towel
Eye protection N95-rated dust mask
Swivel-joint pole sander Eye goggles
Hand-sander block Sheet plastic
Work light 2" painter’s tape
Dry sanding sponge 120-, 150-, and 220-grit As you work, if you oversand or discover low spots
sandpaper or that require another coat of compound, mark the area
Wet sanding sponge with a piece of painter’s tape for repair after you finish
sanding screens
Wet/dry shop vacuum sanding. Make sure to wipe away dust so the tape sticks
6" taping knife to the surface.
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Minimizing Dust
Use sheet plastic and 2" masking tape to help confine dust Prop a fan in an open window so it blows outside to help pull
to the work area. Cover all doorways, cabinets, built-ins, and dust out of the work area during sanding. Open only one
any gaps or other openings with plastic, sealing all four edges window in the space to prevent a cross-breeze.
with tape. The fine dust produced by sanding can find its way
through the smallest cracks.
How to Sand Drywall
Lightly sand all seams and outside corners using a pole sander with 220-grit sanding
screen or 150-grit sandpaper. Work in the direction of the joints, applying even
1 pressure to smooth transitions and high areas. Don’t sand out depressions; fill them
with compound and resand. Be careful not to over-sand or expose joint tape.
Prior to sanding, knock down any
ridges, chunks, or tool marks using a
6" taping knife. Do not apply too much
2
pressure; you don’t want to dig into the
compound, only remove the excess. (continued)
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3
4
Inside corners often are finished with only one or two thin Fine-sand the seams, outside corners, and fastener heads
coats of compound over the tape. Sand the inside edge of using a sanding block with 150- to 220-grit sanding screen
joints only lightly and smooth the outside edge carefully; or sandpaper. As you work, use your hand to feel for defects
inside corners will be sanded by hand later. along the compound. A bright work light angled to highlight
seams can help reveal problem areas.
5
6
To avoid damage from over-sanding, use a 150-grit dry For tight or hard-to-reach corners, fold a piece of sanding
sanding sponge to sand inside corners. The sides of sanding screen or sandpaper in thirds and sand the area carefully.
sponges also contain grit, allowing you to sand both sides of a Rather than using just your fingertips, try to flatten your hand
corner at once to help prevent over-sanding. as much as possible to spread out the pressure to avoid
sanding too deep.
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Repair depressions, scratches, or exposed tape due to over-
sanding after final sanding is complete. Wipe the area with a
dry cloth to remove dust, then apply a thin coat of all-purpose
compound. Allow to dry thoroughly, then resand.
7
8
With sanding complete, remove dust from the panels with a
dry towel or soft broom. Use a wet-dry vacuum to clean out all
electrical boxes and around floors, windows, and doors, then
carefully roll up sheet plastic and discard. Finally, damp mop
the floor to remove any remaining dust.
Dust-free Drywall Sanding
Dust-free sanding systems come with both pole and hand-
sanding attachments that connect directly to your wet/dry
vacuum or to a water filter that captures the bulk of the dust,
keeping your vacuum filter clean.
Wet sanding is a dust-free alternative to dry sanding. Use
a high-density sponge made for wet sanding. Saturate it
with cool, clean water and wring it out just enough so it
doesn’t drip. Wipe joints and corners in the direction they
run, and rinse the sponge frequently. Sponge sparingly, to
avoid streaking.
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J
p
Textures & Skim Coats
he most common texture on walls and ceilings formulated for texturing. This “mud” may be thinned
T is no texture at all. Smooth surfaces are easy
to clean, are non-abrasive and are less likely to
with water to a pancake-batter consistency for
sprayer or roller application. Aggregates like sand or
w
accumulate moisture, dirt, and mold. And when the perlite may be included in the compound to create
time comes, smooth surfaces are easy to repair and a gravelly texture. Applied mud may be left to dry or
repaint. A coat of high-quality drywall primer, tinted tooled to achieve a particular look.
to the color of the topcoat and sanded lightly with fine Ceilings sprayed with popcorn texture contain
sandpaper, makes an adequate base for flat wall paint. vermiculite or polystyrene aggregates. Popcorn textures p
For a custom appearance, you can apply a skim should not be used in contact areas, where aggregates
coat of joint compound, which will make your wall may be scraped off. Aggregated textures may be left
resemble traditional plaster. Or, you can apply one unpainted or spray-painted if desired (rollers tend to lift
of many textured finishes. For a basic skim coat, roll off the aggregate). If a somewhat washable aggregate
or spray a thinned drywall topping compound onto surface is desired from the start, paints mixed with
a properly taped and filled drywall surface, and then aggregates are available. Acoustical-rated ceiling
scrape the surface smooth with a 12" trowel. A skim- textures have the best sound-deadening qualities.
coated surface is consistently smooth, and differences Interesting textures involving swirls, patterns,
between the drywall paper and the dried joint or ridges add yet increased visual dimension to the
compound are eliminated. This prevents taped joints surface of walls and ceilings. Thick and sharp textures
and fastener patches from showing through paint. should not be used where people may scrape against
Skim coating is especially important under gloss them, since peaks of plaster and sharp aggregates can
paints and on surfaces that will be harshly lit. cut through skin and catch clothing. Deep textures
Textured coatings have the advantage of being are also difficult to clean. Smooth, low textures such
more forgiving of surface imperfections than paint as orange-peel and knock-down are most appropriate
alone. Most textures start with joint compound or, for walls, since they are non-abrasive and are easy to
better, a joint-compound-like substance specially paint and clean.
Ceiling and wall
textures may be
added to paint
and rolled on or
applied with a
sprayer as a base
coat for paint.
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Applying a Skim Coat
Joint compound and drywall face paper have different
porosities, which cause each to absorb paint and
other decorative finishes differently. If taped walls and
ceilings are not properly primed, seams and fastener
heads can show through the finished paint job. This
is called photographing and is readily apparent on
surfaces that are under bright light or that are covered
with high-gloss paint.
To combat photographing, apply a skim coat of
thinned-down joint compound. A skim coat evens out
surface textures to create a smooth, perfectly primed
surface. Use all-purpose compound or drying-type
topping compound for skim coating. Avoid setting-
type compounds; if they dry too quickly, they may not
properly bond with the surface.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Work gloves Paint roller
Eye protection Paint screen or roller pan
Particle mask 12 to 14" taping knife 1
Heavy-duty drill Premixed all-purpose
with paddle mixer or drying-type Thin compound with cool water to a paint-like consistency,
5-gal. bucket topping compound using a drill and mixing paddle. Pour compound into a
Clean potable water roller tray. Note: Use all-purpose compound or drying-type
topping compound.
2
3
Apply a thin coat of compound to the taped surface using Once a section is covered with compound, smooth the surface
a paint roller with a thin nap. Work in small sections so using a 12 to 14" taping knife. Work from the top down,
compound doesn’t dry before you can smooth it. applying enough pressure to leave a thin film of compound
over the surface and remove ridges.
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Priming & Painting Drywall
aints are either latex (water-based) or alkyd (oil- well to all surfaces and provides a durable base that
P based). Latex paint is easy to apply and clean up, and
the improved chemistry of today’s latexes makes them
keeps the paint from cracking and peeling. Priming
is particularly important when using a high-gloss
suitable for nearly every application. Some painters feel paint on walls and ceilings, because the paint alone
that alkyd paint provides a smoother finish, but local might not completely hide finished drywall joints
regulations may restrict the use of alkyd products. and other variations in the surface. To avoid the need
Paints come in various sheens, from high-gloss to for additional coats of expensive finish paint, tint the
flat. Gloss enamels dry to a shiny finish and are used primer to match the new color.
for surfaces that need to be washed often, such as
walls in bathrooms and kitchens and woodwork. Flat
paints are used for most wall and ceiling applications. HOW TO ESTIMATE PAINT
Paint prices are typically an accurate reflection
of quality. As a general rule, buy the best paint your 1) Length of wall or ceiling (linear feet) ×
budget can afford. High-quality paints are easier to 2) Height of wall, or width of ceiling =
use, look better, last longer, cover better, and because
3) Surface area (square feet) ÷
they often require fewer coats they are usually less
expensive in the long run. 4) Coverage per gallon of chosen paint =
Before applying the finish paint, prime all of the 5) Gallons of paint needed
surfaces with a good-quality primer. Primer bonds
For large jobs, mix paint together (called “boxing”) in a Latex-based drywall primer and sealer equalizes the
large pail to eliminate slight color variations between cans. absorption rates between the dried joint compound and the
Stir the paint thoroughly with a wooden stick or power drywall paper facing, allowing the paint to go on evenly with
drill attachment. no blotching.
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Selecting a Quality Paint
Paint coverage (listed on can labels) of quality paint should be High washability is a feature of quality paint. The pigments
about 400 sq. ft. per gallon. Bargain paints (left) may require in bargain paints (right) may “chalk” and wash away with
two or even three coats to cover the same area as quality mild scrubbing.
paints (right).
Paint Sheens
A B C D
Paint comes in a variety of surface finishes, or sheens. Gloss enamel (A) provides a highly reflective finish for areas where high
washability is important. All gloss paints tend to show surface flaws. Alkyd-base enamels have the highest gloss. Medium-gloss
(or "satin") latex enamel (B) creates a highly washable surface with a slightly less reflective finish. Like gloss enamels,
medium-gloss paints tend to show surface flaws. Eggshell enamel (C) combines a soft finish with the washability of enamel. Flat
latex (D) is an all-purpose paint with a matte finish that hides surface irregularities.
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Painting Tools
Most painting jobs can be completed with a few stepladder, and one or two good rollers. With proper
quality tools. Purchase two or three premium cleanup, these tools will last for years. See pages 142
brushes, a sturdy paint pan that can be attached to a to 143 for tips on how to use paintbrushes and rollers.
Choosing a Paintbrush
Chiseled end
Flagged bristles
Spacer plugs
Reinforced
ferrule
Hardwood handle
A quality brush (left), has a shaped hardwood handle and There’s a proper brush for every job. A 4" straight-edged brush
a sturdy, reinforced ferrule made of noncorrosive metal. (bottom) is good for cutting in along ceilings and corners. For
Multiple spacer plugs separate the bristles. A quality brush woodwork, a 2" trim brush (middle) works well. A tapered
has flagged (split) bristles and a chiseled end for precise sash brush (top) helps with corners. Use brushes made of
edging. A cheaper brush (right) will have a blunt end, natural bristles only with alkyd paints. All-purpose brushes,
unflagged bristles, and a cardboard spacer plug that may suitable for all paints, are made with a blend of polyester,
soften when wet. nylon, and sometimes natural bristles.
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Choosing Paint Rollers
Choose a sturdy roller with a wire cage construction. Nylon
bearings should roll smoothly and easily when you spin the
cage. The handle end should be threaded for attaching an
extension handle.
Select the proper roller cover for the surface you intend to
paint. A ¼"-nap cover is used for enamel paints and very
flat surfaces. A 3⁄8"-nap cover will hide the small flaws found
in most flat walls and ceilings. A 1"-nap cover is for rough
surfaces like concrete blocks or stucco. Foam rollers fit into
small spaces and work well when painting furniture or doing
touch-ups. Corner rollers have nap on the ends and make it
easy to paint corners without cutting in the edges. Synthetic
covers are good with most paints, especially latexes. Wool or
mohair roller covers give an even finish with alkyd products.
Always choose good-quality roller covers, which will be less Paint pads and specialty rollers come in a wide range of sizes
likely to shed lint. and shapes to fit different painting needs.
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How to Use a Paint Roller
Draw the roller straight down (2) from the top of the diagonal
sweep made in step 1. Lift and move the roller to the
1 beginning of the diagonal sweep and roll up (3) to complete
the unloading of the roller.
2
1
1
3 2
Wet the roller cover with water (for latex paint) or mineral
spirits (for alkyd enamel), to remove lint and prime the cover.
Squeeze out excess liquid. Dip the roller fully into the paint
pan reservoir and roll it over the textured ramp to distribute
the paint evenly. The roller should be full, but not dripping.
Make an upward diagonal sweep about 4 ft. long on the
surface, using a slow stroke to avoid splattering.
4
Smooth the area
by lightly drawing
the roller vertically
from the top to
the bottom of
the painted area.
Lift the roller and
3 return it to the top
of the area after
each stroke.
Distribute the paint over the rest of the section with horizontal
and diagonal back-and-forth strokes.
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How to Use a Paintbrush
Paint along the edges (called “cutting in”) using the narrow
edge of the brush, pressing just enough to flex the bristles.
1 Keep an eye on the paint edge, and paint with long, slow
strokes. Always paint from a dry area back into wet paint to
avoid lap marks.
2
Dip the brush into the paint, loading one-third of its bristle
length. Tap the bristles against the side of the can to remove
excess paint, but do not drag the bristles against the lip of
the can.
To paint large areas with a brush, apply Smooth the surface by drawing the brush
the paint with 2 or 3 diagonal strokes. vertically from the top to the bottom of
Hold the brush at a 45° angle to the the painted area. Use light strokes and
work surface, pressing just enough to lift the brush from the surface at the end
flex the bristles. Distribute the paint of each stroke. This method is best for
evenly with horizontal strokes. slow-drying alkyd enamels.
4 5
3
Brush wall corners using the wide edge
of the brush. Paint open areas with
a brush or roller before the brushed
paint dries.
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Painting Walls & Ceilings
For a smooth finish on large wall and ceiling areas,
paint in small sections. First use a paintbrush to cut
in the edges, then immediately roll the section before
moving on. If brushed edges are left to dry before the
large surfaces are rolled, visible lap marks will be left
on the finished wall. Working in natural light makes it
easier to see missed areas.
Spread the paint evenly onto the work surface
without letting it run, drip, or lap onto other areas.
Excess paint will run on the surface and can drip onto
woodwork and floors. Conversely, stretching paint too
far leaves lap marks and results in patchy coverage.
For fast, mess-free painting, shield any surfaces
that could get splattered. If you are painting only the
ceiling, drape the walls and woodwork to prevent
splatters. When painting walls, mask the baseboards
and the window and door casings. (See top of
opposite page.)
While the tried-and-true method of aligning
painter’s tape with the edge of moldings and casings
is perfectly adequate, the job goes much faster and
smoother with a tape applicator. Similarly, painter’s
tape can be used to cover door hinges and window
glass, but hinge masks and corner masks simplify the
job enormously. Evaluate the available choices and
the project at hand: there are many new, easy-to-use Use an adjustable extension handle to paint ceilings and tall
options available. walls easily without a ladder.
Cut in around doors and
window casing with a
paintbrush and then finish
painting the wall with a roller.
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How to Tape and Drape for Walls and Ceilings
1 2
Align wide masking tape with the inside edge of the molding; Press the top half of 2" masking tape along the joint between
press in place. Run the tip of a putty knife along the inside the ceiling and the wall, leaving the bottom half of the tape
edge of the tape to seal it against seeping paint. After loose. Hang sheet plastic under the tape, draping the walls
painting, remove the tape as soon as the paint is too dry and baseboards. After painting, remove the tape as soon as
to run. the paint is too dry to run.
SPECIALIZED ROLLER TECHNIQUES
Using a corner roller makes it unnecessary to cut in inside Minimize brush marks. Slide the roller cover slightly off of the
corners. It also matches the rolled texture of the rest of the roller cage when rolling near wall corners or a ceiling line.
wall better than most paint brushes. Brushed areas dry to a different finish than rolled paint.
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How to Paint Ceilings
3 × 3'
2 3 A
1
y
Paint ceilings with a roller handle extension. Use eye protection while painting overhead. Start at the corner farthest from the
entry door. Paint the ceiling along the narrow end in 3 × 3-ft. sections, cutting in the edges with a brush before rolling. Apply the
paint with a diagonal stroke. Distribute the paint evenly with back-and-forth strokes. For the final smoothing strokes, roll each
section toward the wall containing the entry door, lifting the roller at the end of each sweep.
How to Paint Walls
2 × 4'
1 3
2
Paint walls in 2 × 4-ft. sections. Start in an upper corner, cutting in the ceiling and wall corners with a brush, then rolling the
section. Make the initial diagonal roller stroke from the bottom of the section upward, to avoid dripping paint. Distribute the
paint evenly with horizontal strokes, then finish with downward sweeps of the roller. Next, cut in and roll the section directly
underneath. Continue with adjacent areas, cutting in and rolling the top sections before the bottom sections. Roll all finish
strokes toward the floor.
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Cleaning Up
At the end of a paint job you may choose to throw
away the roller covers (especially if you used oil),
but the paint pans, roller handles, and brushes
can be cleaned for future use. Always follow the
manufacturer’s guidelines for disposing of paint waste.
The easiest way to clean brushes and roller covers
you’d like to use again is to use a spinner tool. Wash
the roller cover or brush with water (or solvent),
then attach it to the spinner. Pumping the handle
throws liquids out of the roller cover or brush. Hold
the spinner inside a cardboard box or 5-gallon bucket
to catch paint and avoid splatters. Once clean, store
brushes in their original wrappers, or fold the bristles
inside brown wrapping paper. Store washed roller
covers on end to avoid flattening the nap.
Stray paint drips can be wiped away if they are
still wet. A putty knife or razor will remove many
dried paint spots on hardwood or glass. You can use
a chemical cleaner to remove stubborn paint from
most surfaces, though make sure to test the product Cleaning products include (from left): chemical cleaner for
on an inconspicuous area to make sure the surface dried paint drips, spinner tool, cleaner tool for brushes and
is colorfast. roller covers.
Using a Cleaner Tool
Comb brush bristles with the spiked side of a cleaner tool. This Scrape paint from a roller cover with the curved side of cleaner
aligns the bristles so they dry properly. tool. Remove as much paint as possible before washing.
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Installing Trim
on Walls & Ceilings
rim moldings are installed primarily to decorate
T our houses by adding rich wood tones and
creating ornamental effects that often feature light
and shadow. Moldings do perform minor structural
jobs, too, mainly to conceal gaps between walls, floor,
and ceilings, and around doors and windows.
Before beginning your trim project, do plenty
of planning and get to know your tools. Safety is
paramount when working with any power tools. Make
sure you use the correct tools for the project and
that the tools are well maintained. Always use proper
techniques and safety practices.
In this chapter:
U Victorian Trim Style
U Arts & Crafts Trim Style
U Neoclassical Trim Style
U Modern Trim Style
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1 × 2 back band
Cap molding
Victorian Trim Style
ictorian style began in the mid-nineteenth century
V and lasted approximately 60 years. Trimwork of
this style is generally very ornate with large elaborate Base molding
casings that emphasize curves and decoration rather
than material. Moldings were built by stacking layers
multiple times, rather than using a single piece.
Victorian style is generally seen in houses with
higher ceilings. Due to the sheer size and nature of
these moldings, they may tend to crowd a standard
8-foot-tall room, especially if all types of trim elements
are included from the floor up. However, the term
“Victorian” encompasses many different variations
and can be successfully installed in smaller homes by
sizing down the scale of the trimwork.
This Victorian door casing is not made up of casing at all but actually a combination of baseboard and cap molding with 1 × 2 as
a back band. The overall width of the casing is 4", creating a strong statement when compared to a single-piece stock molding.
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Victorian frame-and-panel walls were often so elaborate that they were constructed outside the home and brought in to
be installed.
Baseboards were commonly 7" tall or greater, with plinth Victorian style cornice moldings were often very large and
blocks at door openings rather than a straight casing to elaborate. Made up of multiple pieces of material, the
the floor. decoration can sometimes be seen as out of proportion with
current construction standards.
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1 × 4 back band
Arts & Crafts Trim Style
1×4
Biscuit
rts & Crafts style originated near the turn of
A the twentieth century. Trim components of this
style generally emphasize wood grain, function, and
simplicity in design. Typical Arts & Crafts furnishings
and trim are made from quartersawn white oak, but
painted trim work is a less expensive alternative that
still maintains the style.
There are many variations of Arts & Crafts
style. The projects provided in this book illustrate
only a few common trim techniques. Research the
movement if you like the idea of wider, straight-line
casing, but don’t see exactly what you want. The Use biscuits to join butted joints of an Arts & Crafts window
installation techniques are the same, with variations or door treatment. Mitered corner molding wraps around the
in joinery and style elements. perimeter of the solid stock, to add depth to the casing.
Decorative elements from these Arts & Crafts cabinets are repeated in the window frame and throughout the room to an
impressive visual effect.
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Arts & Crafts plate rail doubles as wainscot cap, which is usually higher than
wainscot in other decorating vernaculars. In a typical Arts & Crafts installation, the
wainscot is between 48 and 54" high. Corbels located above frame-and-panel stiles
are a common motif.
White oak is the preferred Arts & Crafts
wood type. The window apron above
is from quartersawn white oak, the
preferred cut. The wainscot panels are
plainsawn white oak veneer plywood.
Fancy Arts & Crafts embellishments,
like the newel post (above) and the
wraparound window header (left), still
feature relatively plain wood treatments
with a very linear appearance.
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1 × 3 cap strip
Crown molding
Neoclassical Trim Style 1 × 4 frieze
he term “Neoclassical” refers to any style derived
T from classic Roman or Greek architecture. Specific
Neoclassical styles include Federal and Georgian
Crosshead strip
styles. Traditional Greek buildings had structural
components such as columns and pedestals, which,
in modern time, have been replaced with interior
trim elements such as door casings and baseboard.
An example of a Neoclassical door trim would Fluted casing
be a fluted casing with plinth blocks at the floor.
This style is a direct, but flatter, version of classic
Greek architecture.
Neoclassical style is also represented in many of
the buildings of the U.S. Federal Government. Many
This illustrated Neoclassical fluted casing (right) is capped off
national monuments have Neoclassical elements with a 4-piece decorative head including: half-round cross-
in their window and door treatments as well as the head strip, 1 × 4 frieze board, crown molding, and 1 × 3
obvious exterior trim components such as columns. cap strip.
Neoclassical is a very broad trim
category that includes many styles and
interpretations. Basically, it boils down
to “Formal and Fancy.”
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Not all Neoclassical trim is extremely ornate.
The clean lines of this door casing and plinth
blocks are crisp and graceful, an effect that is
enhanced by the white painted finish.
In this Neoclassical doorway, decorative “keystones” highlight
the archway over the door and are repeated in the cornice
molding as well.
Neoclassical moldings often are, again, ornate, like this Dentil moldings are also common in crown moldings, mantels,
Federal-style exterior door head molding. and frieze boards.
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Modern Trim Style
odern style is relatively plain, downplaying
M decorative carving or complex profiles. Where
Victorian trim pieces are elaborate multiple-piece
moldings high on decoration, Modern trim can be
as basic as plywood cut to a uniform width with
clean lines and butted joints. Hardware on Modern
cabinetry, doors, and windows is generally sleek, with
chrome or black oxide coating. Six-panel doors are
replaced with slab doors, and industrial materials
are incorporated into the design whenever possible,
including revealing the internal systems of a home
such as heating ducts and electrical lines.
More so than the styles of the past, Modern style
represents a complete change in how we view trim
and architecture. Traditional ideas about what
Birch plywood, commonly known as Baltic Birch, is frequently
materials should be used and where and how they are used to make Modern style trim. The plywood is ripped
installed are challenged. The focus of Modern style is to strips of desired width and installed with an exposed
function, never purely decoration. plywood edge.
Modern trim isn't defined by any
specific profiles or shapes; it simply is
trim that has a clean, simple, and open
appearance that's unlike the fanciness
of the tradional styles.
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Plain Colonial or ranch casings are
mitered at the header of the door in the
typical Modern home. Matching base
Clean lines and hard shadows are the hallmarks of Modern trim. White semi-gloss moldings are butted against the door
paint is the finish of choice. casings without a plinth block.
Glass block is a Modern-style material that allows light into a room without
sacrificing safety. The window trim shown is made of ceramic tile rather than wood.
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Preparing for
a Trim Project
ike other types of home improvement work,
L successful trim carpentry requires a good deal
of careful preparation. However, where preparation
for installing flooring or painting walls requires time
with brushes and levelers and primers and such,
preparing for trim installation is mostly a matter of
thinking and making good choices. After all, the point
of trim is often to conceal problems that resulted from
inadequate preparation or poor execution.
The fundamental questions you need to answer
during the preparation process are “What should I
install?” and “How should I attach it?” Then, you need
to choose a trim profile and material. Finally, you’ll have
to specify a finish.
Choosing a method of attachment is usually rather
obvious. In almost all cases, pneumatic nails are the
best choice. But not all walls will accept nails, and
some heavier trim material may require the holding
strength of screws. Other lighter trims should be
attached with adhesives only. There is a lot to think
about. But once you’ve answered the basic questions,
devising a plan of attack is relatively simple.
In this chapter:
• Choosing a Style
• Tools & Materials
• Molding Profiles
• Glues & Adhesives
• Screws & Nails
• Abrasives
• Wood Fillers
• Job Site Preparation
• Estimating Material
• Planning a Deadline
• Planning a Trim Layout
• Removing Old Trim
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Choosing a Style
hen you begin to design your new trim project, Neoclassical style may create a formal appearance for
W you will want to make choices about the style
and the types of moldings that are most appropriate
a dining room or den. It is possible that maintaining
the existing style of your home is important to you.
p
p
for your home. Balance and scale, existing furnishings, Or perhaps you would prefer to change the style in
and the applied finish will all change the effect your an individual room to make it more relaxed than the
project has on the room as well as the overall house. rest of your home. Whatever the case is, keep in mind
Choosing a specific style for your trim project can there are no rules written in stone that state what you
be as difficult as the actual installation. Architectural can and cannot do.
styles evoke different feelings from each individual. When adding trim, it generally is best to stay
To help you choose a style, start with the feeling within the same period or style as already exists in
that you are trying to achieve in the room. The your house. Mixing periods of trim, when not handled
simplistic nature of Arts & Crafts may be relaxing to thoughtfully, can be awkward and confusing to
you, or maybe you find it boorish and unappealing. the eye.
w
The style of your house should
inform your trim-selection decisions.
Try to match or complement existing
trim, both interior and exterior.
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Balance & Scale
cale can be defined as the size of a particular
S object in relation to its surroundings. When
considering a trim style, scale is very important
Crown molding
because moldings that are too large or small
Picture rail
might not have an impact on a room the way you
had planned.
Moldings that are well-balanced create a sense
of comfort and stability in a room and are well
proportioned to each other; that is, they are scaled
proportionally. For example, if you originally wanted
to install very tall base molding, the crown or cornice
treatment should be similar in scale or the room may
be thrown out of balance.
The Ancient Greeks used a scale of proportion that
mimics that of a column. The general rule of thumb
for a room with an 8-foot ceiling is that the base
should be a minimum of 5 inches wide, the chair rail
a minimum of 3 inches wide (set at a height between
32 and 36 inches up from the floor), and the crown a
minimum of 5 inches wide. The wall represents the
column shaft, the base molding represents the base, Casing
and the crown represents the capital.
When choosing trim elements for your project,
keep in mind the existing moldings of the room so Chair rail
that the new trim will have the effect you desire. It is a
good idea to maintain balance and scale.
While our eye, in general, does not like surprises
when it comes to scale, it is possible to create effective
illusions by violating the normal rules of proportional
scale. For example, by trimming a small room with
an elaborate built-up crown, you can make the
room appear taller. But use caution; if not handled
gracefully, the trick can backfire and simply make your
room look small and cluttered.
Base shoe
Baseboard
Scale can be used to your advantage. With an elaborate, built- The style of the trim in this room is well balanced. The
up crown detail, this standard-height room looks like it has a individual elements are similar in color and molding profile and
taller ceiling than it actually does. do not overpower each other with strong differences in size.
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Tools & Materials
nstalling finish trim and casings is a challenging job Purchase the highest-quality layout tools you can
I that requires patience, attention to detail, and the
right tool for each task. Without these requirements,
afford. They are crucial for accurate measuring and
marking of trim, and help you avoid costly mistakes
the result will suffer. Start off right by using high-quality with expensive stock.
tools. Be sure to read and follow all safety instructions,
and become familiar with the tool and its operation Layout Tools
prior to using it for your project. Good tools last longer Layout tools help you measure, mark, and cut
and are generally more accurate than cheaper versions. materials and surfaces with accuracy. Many layout
Many people buy tools only as they are needed to tools are inexpensive and simply provide a means
avoid purchases they will not use. This rationale should of measuring for level, square, and plumb lines.
only apply to power tools and higher-priced specialty However, recent technologies have incorporated
items. A high-quality basic tool set is important for lasers into levels, stud finders, and tape measures,
every do-it-yourselfer to have on hand and ready when making them more accurate than ever before, at a
you need to use it. Doing so avoids improper tool usage slightly higher price. Although these new tools are
and makes your job easier, with improved results. handy in specific applications, their higher price is not
always warranted and the average do-it-yourselfer can
produce quality results without them.
Hand Tools N A tape measure with a thicker, reinforced tape
will allow you to take longer measurements—up
The hand tools you will need for most finish to 11 feet without the tape buckling. The thicker
carpentry jobs can be broken down into two tapes are also more durable. The constant
types: layout tools and construction tools. extending and reeling in of the tape will put strain
It is common for most people to on the end, causing thinner tapes to rip and
own construction tools yet expose sharp edges.
lack necessary layout
tools for basic
trim jobs.
Tape measure
Combination square
Levels
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• A framing square, also known as a carpenter’s
square, is commonly used to mark sheet goods
and check recently installed pieces for position.
Framing squares are also used as an initial check
for wall squareness and plumb in relation to a floor
or ceiling.
Framing square
• Chalk lines are used to make temporary straight
lines anywhere they are needed. The case of a
chalk line, or the “box,” is tear shaped so the tool
doubles as a plumb bob. Use a chalk line to mark Chalk lines
Stud finder
sheet goods for cutting or to establish a level line
in a room. Keep in mind that chalk can be difficult
to remove from porous surfaces.
• A stud finder is used to locate the framing
members in a wall or ceiling. Higher-priced
versions also find plumbing, electrical, or other
mechanicals in the wall. Although a stud finder is
not completely necessary, it is convenient when
installing a larger job.
Laser Level
• Levels are available in a variety of lengths and
price ranges. The longer and more accurate
the level, the higher the price. The two most
commonly used sizes are 2-foot and 4-foot
lengths. The 2-foot levels are handy for tighter
spaces, while the 4-foot variety serves as a better T-bevel
all-purpose level. Laser levels are handy for
creating a level line around the perimeter of a
room or for level lines along longer lengths. They
provide a wide range of line or spot placement,
depending on the model.
• A T-bevel is a specialized tool for finding and
transferring precise angles. T-bevels are generally
used in conjunction with a power miter saw to
gauge angled miters of nonsquare corners. This
tool is especially handy in older homes where
the concepts of square, plumb, and level do not
necessarily apply.
• A profile gauge uses a series of pins to
recreate the profile of any object so that
you may transfer it to a work piece. Profile
gauges are especially useful when dealing with
irregular obstructions.
• A combination square is a multifunction square
that provides an easy reference for 45- and
90-degree angles, as well as marking reveal lines
or a constant specific distance from the edge of a
Profile gauge
work piece.
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Construction Tools
N A good quality hammer is a must for every trim carpentry
project. A 16-oz. curved claw hammer, otherwise known as
a finish hammer, is a good all-purpose choice.
N Utility knives are available in fixed, retracting, and
retractable blades. This tool is used for a wide variety of
cutting tasks from pencil sharpening to back-beveling miter
joints. Always have additional blades readily available.
N A set of chisels is necessary for installing door hardware as
well as notching trim around obstacles and final fitting of
difficult pieces.
N Block planes are used to fit doors into openings and remove
fine amounts of material from trim. A finely tuned block
plane can even be used to clean up a sloppy miter joint.
N A coping saw has a thin, flexible blade designed to cut
curves and is essential for making professional trim
joints on inside corners. Coping-saw blades should be
fine-toothed, between 16 and 24 teeth per inch for most
hardwoods, and set to cut on the pull stroke of the saw to
offer you more blade control.
N A sharp handsaw is convenient for quick cut-offs and in
some instances where power saws are difficult to control.
Purchase a cross-cut saw for general-purpose cutting.
Pry bars
N Protective wear, including safety glasses and ear
protection, is required any time you are working with tools.
Dust masks are necessary when sanding.
N Pry bars come in a variety of sizes and shapes. A quality
forged high-carbon steel flat bar is the most common choice
for trim projects. Wrecking bars make lighter work of trim
and door removal due to their added weight.
N Side cutters and end nippers are useful for cutting off and
pulling out bent nails. The added handle length and curved
head of end nippers makes them ideal for larger casing nails.
Pneumatic brad nails and smaller pins will pull out easier
Protective wear
with side cutters. Purchase a nail set for countersinking nail
heads. Three-piece sets are available for different nail sizes.
N A rasp and a metal file set are important for fitting coped
joints precisely. The variety of shapes, sizes, and mills allows
faster, rougher removal of material or smoother, slower
removal, depending on the file.
N Use a putty knife to fill nail holes with putty and for light
scraping tasks.
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Handsaws
Putty knife
Nail
set
Hammer
Utility knives
Coping saw
Rasp and metal file set
Side cutters and end nippers
Chisels
Block plane
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Power Tools
espite the higher price as compared to hand N A cordless drill is one of the handiest tools
D tools, power tools are a great value. They allow
you to do work more quickly and accurately than with
available. Although drills are not normally used
to install trim, they make quick work of installing
hand tools and make repetitive tasks like sanding, wood backing for wainscoting and other trim
drilling, and sawing more enjoyable. Basic trim jobs features. Occasionally, trim head screws are used
do not require every power tool shown here, but rather than nails to install trim. This situation
some tools, such as a power miter box, are crucial is most common with steel-stud walls and
for professional results. Purchase power tools on necessitates a drill.
an as-needed basis, keeping in mind that while the
cheapest tool is not always your best option, the most N A circular saw is ideal for straight cuts in plywood
expensive and powerful is probably not necessary, and quick cut-offs of solid material. Purchase a
either. Cheaper tools generally sacrifice precision, plywood blade to make smooth cuts in plywood
while the most expensive tools are made for people and a general-purpose blade for other cuts.
who use them every day, not just for occasional use.
Power tools that are midrange in price are a good N A jigsaw is the perfect tool for cutting curves, or
choice for the do-it-yourselfer. notching out trim around obstructions. Jigsaw blades
Corded reciprocating saw
Circular saw
Jigsaw
Cordless
reciprocating
saw
Cordless drill/driver
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Router
Random-orbit sander
Biscuit, or
plate, joiner
Finish, or detail, sander
Power planer
Belt sander
Tablesaw
come in an array of designs for different styles of cuts • Random-orbit sanders are a good choice for
and different types and thicknesses of materials. smoothing flat areas, such as plywood, quickly.
Always use the right type of blade, and do not force Random-orbit sanders leave no circular markings,
the saw during the cut or it may bend or break. like a disc sander, and can sand in any direction
regardless of wood grain.
• A biscuit joiner is a specialty tool used to make
strong joints between two square pieces of stock. • Finish sanders are available in a variety
of sizes and shapes for different light
• A reciprocating saw is used for removal and tear- sanding applications.
down applications for trim projects. This tool is
especially handy to remove door jambs. • A power planer is used to trim doors to fit
openings and flatten or straighten out materials.
• A power miter saw, or chop saw, will yield Power planes are faster to use than manual hand
professional trim results. Most have a 10- or planes, but results are more difficult to control.
12-inch diameter blade. A compound power miter
saw has a head that pivots to cut bevels and miters • A tablesaw is the best tool for ripping stock to
at the same time. Sliding miter saws have more width, and larger models can be fitted with a
cutting capacity but are less portable. A fine-tooth molding head for cutting profiles.
carbide-tipped blade is best for trim projects.
• A router (plunge router is shown here) has many
• A belt sander is not essential but is a handy tool uses in trim carpentry, especially for cutting edge
for quick removal of material. profiles to make your own custom wood trim.
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Pneumatic Tools
Along with a good power miter saw, pneumatic tools are the key to
timely, professional trim results. Pneumatic tools save time and energy
Portable over traditional hammer-and-nail installation. Not only do they drive
compressor
fasteners quickly, but they countersink at the same time, avoiding
multiple strikes to the trim, which could throw joints out of alignment.
Predrilled holes are not necessary with pneumatic tools. Splitting occurs
infrequently if the work piece is held firmly in place and the nails are i
positioned at least 1 inch from trim ends. Nail guns also allow you to t
concentrate on the placement of the work piece with one hand and l
fasten it with the other. You needn’t fumble around with single fasteners
because they are already loaded in the gun.
Cost of pneumatic tools, compressors, and fasteners has decreased t
over the years, making them not only the professional’s choice, but a b
great option for the do-it-yourselfer as well. Pneumatic kits are available i
at home centers with two different guns and a compressor at a value
price. For smaller trim jobs, consider renting pneumatics.
Portable compressors are available in different styles, including
pancake and tumbler styles. Any compressor with air pressure of 90 psi or
greater will work for a finish gun or brad nailer. Consider options like tank
size, weight of the unit, and noise levels while the compressor is running.
Talk to a home center specialist about what your specific compressor
Brad needs are, and keep in mind any future pneumatic tools you might want.
nailer
The two basic pneumatic tools used in trim carpentry are a finish nailer
and a brad nailer. A finish nailer drives 15-gauge nails ranging from 1 to
2½ inches. These nails work for a variety of moldings, door-and-window
trim, and general-purpose fastening. Angled finish nailers are easier to
maneuver in tight corners than straight guns, but either option will work.
Stapler Brad nailers drive smaller 18-gauge fasteners ranging in length from ½ to
2 inches. Some brad nailers’ maximum length is 1¼ inches. Because the g
fasteners are smaller, it is no surprise that the gun is lighter and smaller
than a finish gun. Brad nailers are used to attach thinner stock, with less
tendency of splitting the trim. Headless pinners drive fasteners similar to
brad nailers without the head. These nails have less holding power but are
normally used to hold small moldings in place until the glue dries. Be sure
Pin nailer to load headless pins
Angled finish nailer
with the points down,
taking note of the label
on the magazine. The
⅜-inch crown staplers are
used to attach backing to
trim pieces and in situations
where maximum holding
power is needed but the
fastener head will not be visible.
Because staples have two legs and
a crown that connects them, their
holding power is excellent. However,
the hole left by the staple’s crown is
large and can be difficult to fill.
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Pneumatic Fasteners
he 15-gauge finish nails and angled finish nails 2-inch fasteners should suffice. 18-gauge brad nails range
T range in length up to 2½ inches. The angled variety
are exactly the same as the straight nails but come in
in length up to 2 inches for some guns and leave smaller
holes to fill than finish guns. Brad nails are commonly
angled clips. These nails are also available galvanized used for thinner casings that are nailed directly to a solid
for exterior applications. Use finish nails to attach larger backer. A specific example of this is along the inner edge
moldings and trim casings. Drive fasteners at regular of a door or window casing. The outer edge of the trim
intervals along the moldings, and keep the position of is nailed with a finish gun through the wallboard, while
the nails at least 1 inch from the molding ends. Fastener the inside edge rests against the door jamb so it can be
length is dependent upon the size of molding installed fastened with a brad nailer. Headless pins leave almost
and what the backing is. Typical stock moldings are no nail hole to fill but are limited in length to 1 inch.
approximately ¾ inch thick. The fastener must pass Their holding power is greatly diminished due to the
through the molding and wallboard and into the stud lack of head, but they are generally used in conjunction
behind. Generally, half the fastener should be embedded with wood glue. Use ⅜-inch crown staples only when
in the backing or stud, so in standard trim applications, the fastener head will not be visible.
3
⁄8 × 1½" narrow crown staples
Cordless nailers offer the advantages of pneumatic nailers
but without the trailing hose and the compressor. A battery-
operated model, such as the 12-volt, 18-gauge brad nailer, is
good for small jobs. Heavy-duty models powered by fuel cells
can handle larger jobs but cost quite a bit more. 15 ga. × 2½" finish nails
18 ga. × 1¼" brads
15 ga. × 2" finish nails
1¼ × ¾" narrow crown staples
18 ga. × 1¼" brads
3
⁄8 × 1" narrow crown staples 18 ga. × 5⁄8" brads
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Chair Rail Profiles
Molding Profiles 11
⁄16 × 2½" 7
⁄16 × 115⁄16"
rim moldings in stock profiles are available
T off the shelf at most home centers. Most
molding manufacturers assign codes such as
“WM166” or “HWM127” to every profile and size.
However, you will find that the codes are not
applied uniformly, making them virtually worthless 5
⁄8 × 2"
if you’re trying to track down specific molding
profiles. The best way to order molding is to obtain
a catalog from your molding supplier and use its
labeling conventions.
There are a few conventions that are fairly
consistently applied. In general, moldings labeled
with a code starting with “WM” are paint-grade 9
⁄16 × 2¼"
or softwood moldings. “HWM” designates the
trim piece as a hardwood molding. If you like the 11
⁄16 × 215⁄16"
style of a softwood molding but would prefer to
buy the piece in a hardwood species, ask for the
equivalent in hardwood from the lumber yard
sales associate.
Even though moldings are commonly found
under categories such as “baseboard” or “cove,”
these categories relate to the style of the trim
piece, not necessarily where it should be used. In
fact, even among seasoned trim carpenters you’ll
frequently encounter arguments over which type a
particular size or profile belongs to. The similarities
are especially apparent when comparing base
1 × 2" ¾ × 2 1⁄ 8 " ½ × 3"
molding to case molding, as the following photos
will confirm.
MINI-GLOSSARY OF MOLDING SHAPES & PROFILES
Bead—a rounded profile
Chamfer—a 45° beveled edge profile
Dentil—a series of rectangular blocks spaced close together to form a border pattern
Flute—a shallow groove with a round profile, usually running longitudinally on the workpiece in groups of at least three
Frieze—horizontal banding on the wall at the wall-ceiling joint
Ogee—an S-shape or reverse curve profile
Rosette—a square block with concentric circular carving, usually placed at the intersection of head and side casing
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Case Molding Profiles
3
⁄8 × 211⁄16" 3
⁄8 × 211⁄16" ½ × 211⁄16" ⁄16 × 2½"
9 11
⁄16 × 23⁄16" 9
⁄16 × 23⁄16"
3
⁄8 × 315⁄16" ¾ × 3¼" 11
⁄16 × 33⁄16" 5
⁄8 × 33⁄16" 5
⁄8 × 37⁄16" 9
⁄16 × 3¼" 3
⁄8 × 33⁄16"
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Base Molding
7
⁄16 × 2"
7
⁄16 × 2¼"
½ × 2¼"
3
⁄8 × 2¾"
3
⁄8 × 33⁄16"
½ × 51⁄8" ½ × 51⁄8" 7
⁄16 × 4¼" 7
⁄16 × 4¼" 9
⁄16 × 3¼"
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Cove Molding
5
⁄8 × 5⁄8"
½ × 31⁄8" 9
⁄16 × 2" 9
⁄16 × 1¾" 5
⁄8 × ¾"
Cap Molding
½ × 11⁄16"
5
⁄8 × ¾"
11
⁄16 × 15⁄8"
5
⁄8 × 13⁄16" 11
⁄16 × 11⁄8"
1 × 3"
¾ × 13⁄8" 11
⁄16 × 13⁄8" ¾ × 1"
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Crown/Bed Molding Profiles
½ × 23⁄16"
½ × 33⁄16"
½ × 4¼"
¾ × 4¼"
¾ × 4¼" ¾ × 4¼" 9
⁄16 × 1¾"
Astragal Molding Profiles
11⁄16 × 73⁄16"
1¼ × 2¼" 1¼ × 2"
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Quarter-Round Base Shoe Stool Molding
11
⁄16 × 11⁄16" 7
⁄16 × 7⁄16" 7
⁄16 × ¾" 5
⁄8 × 31⁄8"
Stop Molding Profiles Corner Moldings
3
⁄8 × 13⁄8"
11
⁄16 × 11⁄16"
3
⁄8 × 1" 1 × 1"
5
⁄16 × 1"
3
⁄8 × 13⁄16" ¾ × ¾" 1¼ × 1¼"
Screen Retainer Profiles Shelf Edge Profiles
3
⁄8 × 1¼"
Picture Rail Molding
½ × 7⁄8"
3
⁄16 × 11⁄16"
3
11 ⁄16 × 11⁄16" 5
⁄8 × 13⁄8"
⁄16 × 1¾"
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Glues & Adhesives
lues and adhesives are available at any hardware label for adhesion quality to specific materials, and
G store or home center in many different specialty
forms, depending upon the type of application. Use
ask a store representative for more information if you
are uncertain which will work best for you. w
hot glue for lightweight trim projects, carpenter’s If you are installing a trim project with a darker
glue for wood joints, and adhesive for strong bonds wood, such as walnut, or your trim has a dark finish
between panels or lumber. applied, consider purchasing dark carpenter’s glue for
Panel adhesive is used to install paneling, wainscot, joint application. Dark glue dries at the same rate
or other tongue-and-groove materials. Most adhesives and with the same strength as regular carpenter’s p
are applied with a caulk gun, but some types are glue, but squeeze-out from the joints will be less j
available in squeeze tubes for smaller applications. visible with a dark background. Exterior wood glue
Caulks are designed to permanently close joints, fill has a longer shelf life than regular glue and is a better
gaps in woodwork, and hide subtle imperfections. multipurpose choice.
Different caulks are made of different compounds and Polyurethane glue provides a high-strength bond
vary greatly in durability and workability. Latex caulks between almost any materials; however, do not
clean up with water and are paintable but don’t last overapply. The dried product is difficult to remove
as long as silicone-based products. Read the product from finished surfaces.
Carpentry adhesives include carpenter’s wood glue, exterior carpenter’s glue, liquid hide glue, polyurethane glue, panel
adhesive, construction adhesive, latex caulk, silicone caulk, and a hot glue gun with glue sticks.
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A
Screws & Nails B
crews and nails are the fasteners of choice for trim
S carpentry projects. Nails are the most common
way of fastening trim in place, but screws are used C
for installing blocking, building up backing material,
and installing trim in instances where nails don’t have
the holding power. Use box nails or long wallboard
screws for rough framing of blocking or backing for
panels. For exterior trim projects and fastening door
jambs, use casing nails. Finish nails are used for most D
trim installation because they have a slight head that
is easy to countersink and conceal. To install smaller
or thinner trim pieces that are prone to splitting, use
brad nails. Brad nails are shorter and have a smaller “Hand” nails for trim projects include brad nails (A), casing nails
gauge than finish nails for light trim work. rated for exterior use (B), box nails (C), and finish nails (D).
No matter what you are fastening, make sure
the fasteners you choose are appropriate for your through wood without a pilot hole can split the wood
installation. Approximately half of the fastener should fibers. These splits may not be visible when you are
be embedded in the backing material when driven finished, but the integrity of your trim will be affected.
in place. It is a good idea to drill pilot holes in all Predrilling eliminates this splitting and creates
materials before fastening them. Driving a fastener stronger joints that last longer.
Use deck and
drywall screws for
general-purpose,
convenient
fastening. Driving
options include
Flathead wood Phillips drive and
screw (brass)
Fine thread square drive. Use
for hardware
drywall trimhead screws
screws to fasten trim
to walls.
Coarse thread Trim-head Flathead
drywall screw wood screw -
screw bright
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RANDOM-ORBIT SANDERS
Random-orbit sanders are great for trim carpentry
work. Their random, circular motion leaves a very
smooth finish that is free from uniform sanding marks.
When working with a random-orbital sander, keep light
pressure on the sander and move with the grain of the
material. Leaving the sander in one place may cause
Abrasives an uneven finish and can possibly wear through a
thin veneer. It is important to use sandpaper with the
correct hole orientation. The holes (either five or eight)
in the sandpaper allow particles to be drawn through
andpaper is readily available from any hardware
S store or home center in a variety of styles, shapes,
and sizes for just about any sanding task. Sandpaper
the sanding pad and into dust-collection ports. When
adhering the sheets (some are self-adhesive and some
use hook-and-loop fabric), be sure that the holes align
is generally available in grits from 60 to 220, but finer with the holes in the sander.
and coarser grits are also offered at some locations. p
The 60-grit sandpaper is used to grind down
badly scratched surfaces and is rarely needed for
trim carpentry applications. A 100-grit sandpaper is
used for initial smoothing of wood. Stock moldings y
purchased from a home center or lumberyard may
need a light initial sanding with 100-grit paper. Use
150-grit sandpaper to put a smooth finish on wood
surfaces before painting or staining material. And v
220-grit sandpaper is useful for light sanding between p
coats of varnish or to remove sanding marks left from A
power sanders. Detail sander being used on a piece of trim.
No matter what you are sanding, begin with a
lower-grit paper and work your way up the grit levels
until you reach the desired smoothness for your Always wear a dust mask when sanding,
project. Do not skip grit levels, especially 100-grit particularly when using power sanders. The airborne
paper. Doing so will make it very difficult to remove particles created while sanding can cause serious
scratches from previous sanding and will leave some health problems. The dust from some hardwoods,
hardwoods with deep grain marks that will be visible such as walnut, is known to cause serious allergic
through your finish. reactions in some people. p
Sandpaper is
available in a
variety of styles
for various
w
applications: p
basic sheet Precut papers for power sanders
sandpaper for
Sanding
general use,
block
sponge sanding
blocks for
materials with
light curves, and
foam-backed
paper for sanding p
tight curves and
intricate details.
Precut papers for
power sanders Sheet sandpaper
Foam backed sandpaper
include Velcro or
adhesive backing.
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Wood Fillers
o matter what type of finish you choose,
N painted or clear, wood fillers provide a
convenient way to fill fastener holes quickly and
effectively with minimal sanding or cleanup. Each
product differs in some way, including varying
drying times, hardness when dry, and adhesion to
specific materials. Read the packaging carefully
to determine which product will best suit
your needs.
Clear finishes require a filler that will either
match the final finish color or stain similarly
to the trim material. If you will be staining and
varnishing your trim after it is installed, consider Wood fillers are available for two finish types: painted and
purchasing filler that will match when stained. clear finish. Based on the type of finish you choose and the
fastener-hole size to fill, these products provide many options
Available in solvent and solvent-free form, these for your filling needs.
fillers apply easily with a putty knife, dry in a very
brief amount of time, and sand with ease. Before
applying stain-matching filler, use a scrap piece of
trim to test the color.
If your trim will be finished prior to installation,
use oil-based finishing putty to fill holes. This putty
is available in numerous colors that can be mixed
to achieve a nearly indistinguishable fill. Finish
putty will never harden completely, so it’s a good
idea to apply one coat of varnish over the top to
match the sheen of the finish.
Fastener holes in painted finishes can be filled
with two main types of filling material. One is a
premixed filler that is normally solvent based, such
as plastic wood. The other requires mixing.
Solvent-based premixed fillers generally
dry faster and harder than their water-based
counterparts. Although premixed fillers are
convenient to use, they have a shorter shelf life and
are more expensive.
Fillers that require mixing are available in
powder form for water-based products and
two-part resin and hardener mixes for solvent-
based products. Both work equally well in most
circumstances; however, two-part resin and Grain filler is available to brush on open-grained woods before
hardener mixes may emit dangerous fumes and finishing. These products fill in wood grain so that it does not
should be handled with caution. mirror through the finish, creating a smoother appearance.
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p
Job Site Preparation
hether you are installing base trim in an entire
W house or just improving the appearance of window
with an additional molding, preparing the job site is
an important step of your project. Remove as much y
furniture from the rooms you will be working in as
possible so that you won’t worry about getting sawdust
on a nice upholstered chair or damaging an antique
furnishing with a scratch. Cover any items you cannot
remove with plastic sheeting. You may also want to cover Organize your tools and avoid a bulky work belt by setting
finished floors with cardboard or plastic as well to protect up a dedicated tool table where all of your project tools and
them from scratches or just to make cleanup easier. materials can be staged.
The Work Area
Set up tools such as a power miter saw at a central tools sharp and clean. Accidents are more likely when
workstation to avoid walking long distances between blades are dull and tools are covered in dust and dirt.
where you are installing and where you are cutting Keep the work area clean and organized. A dedicated
material. This central location is key to professional tool table for staging your tools is a great organizational
results because measurements are easier to aid. Tool tables also make it possible to conveniently
remember and quick trimming is possible without the keep tools from disappearing. If you only use the tools
added time of exiting and entering the house. that you need and set them on the tool table when you
Make sure the work area is well lit. If you don’t aren’t using them, tools stay off the floor and out of other
already own one, purchase a portable light (trouble rooms. Add a set of clamps to the table, and you have a
light) to make viewing the workpieces easier. Keep your convenient space for fine-tuning the fit of each trim piece.
In some trimwork projects, the most
efficient way to accomplish the work
is to convert the installation room
into a temporary workshop.
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Project Safety
Personal safety should be a priority when working on any each work session, sweep up dust and any leftover
project. Power tools and hand tools can cause serious fasteners, and collect scraps of cutoff trim in a work
injuries that require immediate attention. Be prepared bucket. These scraps may come in handy before the
for such situations with a properly stocked first aid kit. end of the project, so keep them around until you
Equip your kit with a variety of bandage sizes and other are finished.
necessary items such as antiseptic wipes, cotton swabs, Maintain safety throughout your project, and
tweezers, sterile gauze, and a first aid handbook. remember that being safe is a priority. Everyone needs
To help you avoid using the first aid kit, read the to use ear protection when operating loud tools. If
owner’s manuals of all power tools before operating you don’t, you will lose your hearing. People don’t
them, and follow all outlined precautions. Protect just get used to loud noise. They lose their hearing
yourself with safety glasses, ear protection, and dust and the noise doesn’t seem as loud. The concept that
masks and respirators when necessary. safety applies to everyone but you is foolish. Take the
Keep your work environment clean and free of necessary precautions to prevent injury to yourself
clutter. Clean your tools and put them away after and those around you.
Always wear safety
glasses and ear
protection when
operating power
tools. Use dust masks
when necessary,
and protect yourself
from chemicals with
a respirator. Work
gloves save your
hands when moving
or handling large
amounts of material.
Knee pads are useful
when working on
floor-level projects
such as baseboard.
Read the owner’s
manual before
operating any power
tool. Your tools
may differ in many
ways from those
described in this
book, so it’s best to
familiarize yourself
with the features
and capabilities of
the tools you own.
Always wear eye
and ear protection
when operating a
power tool. Wear
a dust mask when
the project will
produce dust.
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number represents the minimum number of feet you
need to purchase to complete the job.
To save yourself the difficulty of splicing in
materials over every length, you may need to call
the lumberyard or home center you are purchasing
from to find out what dimensions the moldings
are available in. Some moldings are sold in random
lengths ranging from 1 to 16 feet Others are only
Estimating Material available in 8- or 10-foot lengths. When you know the
availability of the moldings you want, take the time
to write out a detailed list, optimizing the lengths of
stimating material is an important part of any trim material with the fewest number of joints.
E project. Taking the time to do a quality estimation
of your needs will pay off with fewer trips to the
Similar methods should be used to estimate paint,
paneling, and plywood. Make a separate list for every trim
lumberyard and little excess material. Estimating element, molding, or sheet good needed. Separate lists w
materials also helps keep your project in budget as you help avoid confusion when ordering materials or picking
only buy what you need to get the job done. the stock off the shelf. Consider purchasing a project
Begin by measuring the precise length needed for calculator for easier estimating. Project calculators are
each piece of molding and marking the dimensions preprogrammed with formulas for everything including
in your scale drawings. When all dimensions are estimating paint coverage, lineal feet for moldings, and
measured, add the total lineal feet together. This calculating to the nearest 1⁄16 inch or better.
p
Calculating the lineal, or running, length of molding you need is one of the first steps in estimating your material needs. Take
precise measurements, then add 10 percent to account for waste and improperly cut materials.
Project calculators simplify the math of square-foot coverage Make a detailed list for each trim component, listing which
for paint, panel coverage for wainscoting, and lineal feet for lengths can be cut from a stock dimension. Label the list
trim components. The model shown calculates in fractions as clearly with the wood molding number and a description of
well, making precise measurement addition simple. the piece at the top of the page.
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Planning a Deadline
lanning a deadline is just as important as
P buying the material for a trim project. Without
a deadline, the other people around you don’t know
what to expect from the project. Because trim
components are cosmetic and not necessary for
function of a home, trim projects have a tendency to
become drawn out like no other. Planning a deadline
gives you a specific point for completion as well as an
overall goal to shoot for.
Do not sacrifice the quality of your installation to
meet a deadline. Instead, choose a realistic timeline
for certain components to be completed, altering the
schedule as necessary. Remember that although the
project may be exciting and fun now, there may come
a time when it begins to feel like too much work. It is
at this point that your schedule becomes your friend.
Draw cutting diagrams to help you make efficient use of
No one wants to leave a project incomplete, but you
materials. Make scale drawings of sheet goods on graph
need to make it a priority or other things will pop up paper, and sketch cutting lines for each part of your project.
that sound more appealing—and your living room will When laying out cutting lines, remember that the cutting path
look like a construction project for too long. (kerf) of a saw blade consumes up to 1⁄8" of material.
Laying out your project with scale drawings helps you anticipate what tools will be necessary and what the overall impact of your
project will be as well as how it will affect your living space.
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ESTABLISHING LEVEL, PLUMB & SQUARE
Good carpenters strive to achieve three basic
ideals in their work: plumb, level, and square. Go
into any home, however, and you are bound to find
walls that bow, floors that slope, and corners that
don’t form right angles. This doesn’t always mean
the carpenter did a poor job, but rather reflects
the fact that wood and many building materials are
natural products that expand, contract, and settle
with the seasons. These natural movements do not
always occur at the same rate, however, causing
fluctuations that sometimes become permanent.
That’s why it’s no surprise that older homes more
commonly have larger fluctuations.
These movements can make installing a new trim
project challenging. Level and plumb are hard
concepts to apply to a wainscot project where the
floor slopes heavily and corners float in or out.
Compounding the problem further is that power
tools are made to cut and shape wood precisely.
Preset angles on a compound miter saw don’t
include angles such as 47 degrees.
In most cases, your installation of chair rail,
picture rail, or cornice molding will require
compromises. Keep in mind the overall
appearance of your project and remember that the
concepts of plumb and level are only concepts.
Strive to achieve them for quality joints, but
don’t insist on them when they affect the overall
appearance of your project negatively.
A plumb bob is hung to establish a plumb (exactly vertical) line. Plumb can be difficult to visualize. Most chalk boxes can
double as plumb bobs for rough use.
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Window and door jambs are normally installed level and Use a spacer block as a guide to install moldings near a
plumb, but if they aren’t, your casing should still follow an ceiling. The spacer will allow you to easily follow any ups
even reveal of 3⁄16 to ¼" (about the thickness of a nickel) and downs of an uneven ceiling, making the trim run
around the inside edge. Set the blade on a combination parallel to it rather than exactly level.
square to the depth of the reveal. Then use the square as
a guide for your pencil when marking. Install the casings
flush with the mark.
Install baseboard as close to level as possible, paying Use a T-bevel to measure for miter-cutting trim on out-of-
attention to areas where a floor dips or slopes over a square corners. Use a piece of scrap 1 × 4 to trace lines
longer length. In these instances, “cheat” the baseboard parallel to the corner walls. Place the T-bevel so the blade
as close to level as you can, leaving a gap below it. You runs from the corner of the wall to the point where the
can only cheat the molding to less than the height of your lines intersect. Transfer this angle to your miter saw to cut
base shoe, or quarter round. These trim pieces will cover your moldings.
the gap because they are thinner and easier to flex to the
contour of your floor. Cheating the molding will also make
cutting miters easier because they will require less of
a bevel.
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Planning a Trim Layout
lanning the order, layout, and type of joint at each
P end of trim you will be installing is an important
step before you actually start nailing things down.
A good layout plan like the one shown below helps
avoid frustration and errors during installation.
Generally, trim installations begin at the opposing
wall to the entry to the room. The numbers in the
sample layout plan below represent the order in
which each piece is installed. Here, the first piece
installed is butted at both ends, tight to the finished
walls. Trim pieces are added to the installation,
working back and forth around the room in both
directions back toward the entry. The added trim is
coped at all inside corners and mitered at outside
corners. All window and door casings should be
installed before any horizontal molding that will For professional results, contoured molding is coped at inside
butt into it. When running cope joints, install all the corners with a coping saw. Fine-tune the cut with a metal file
butt-to-butt walls first and then the cope-to-outside- or rasp.
1
Scarf joint
Butted
points away
to wall
from door
w
Coped joint
2
j
4
Mitered joint
A
3
5
7 6
Coped joint
Plan the order of your trim installation to minimize the number of difficult cuts on individual pieces. Use the longest pieces of
w
molding for the most visible walls, saving the shorter ones for less conspicuous areas. When possible, place the joints so they
point away from the direct line of sight from the room’s entrance. If a piece will be coped on one end and mitered on the other,
such as no. 3 above, cut and fit the coped end first. Also keep in mind the nailing points; mark all framing members you’ll be
nailing into before starting the installation. At a minimum, all trim should be nailed at every wall stud and every ceiling joist, if w
applicable. Install door and window casing before installing horizontal molding that will butt into it.
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Standard Trim Joints
Scarf joint Coped joint Mitered joint— Mitered joint—
outside corner inside corner
The basic joints for installing most trim are shown here. A scarf joint joins two pieces along a length of wall. Coped joints join
contoured molding at inside corners: The first piece is butted into the corner; the second piece is cut and fitted against the face
of the first. Coped joints are less likely than mitered joints to show gaps if the wood shrinks. Mitered joints are used at outside
and inside corners. They’re typically made with two pieces cut at a 45° angle, but the angle may vary depending on the shape
of the corner. Uncontoured moldings can also be butted together at inside corners.
corners. On occasion, a cope-to-cope may need to be
cut and installed. If the molding has any significant
thickness at the top, measure from the face of the
moldings rather than the face of the wall.
Minimize the number of joints necessary on each
wall by using the longest pieces available. Keep in
mind that the most visible spaces should have fewer
joints whenever possible. Cut all joints so they face
away from the direct line of sight from the room’s
entrance. If a piece will be coped on one end and
mitered on the other, cut and fit the coped end first.
All nailing points should be clearly labeled before you
begin. At a minimum, every piece of trim should be
nailed at each wall stud and at every ceiling joist, if
installing cornice molding.
If you have never installed trim before or if it is
likely that you won’t be able to complete the project
all at once, consider making a layout plan like the one
shown on page 186. There is no absolutely right or
wrong order for most tasks, but the chapters ahead
dealing with the specific type of installation you’ll Miter outside corners, cutting each piece at 45°. Use a
be doing provide some helpful suggestions about pattern with mitered ends to help position your workpieces.
sequencing your project. If you get confused about Fasten the first piece of each joint to within 2 ft. of the corner,
what to do next or can’t remember where you left off, leaving some flexibility for making adjustments when you
the layout plan will guide you through the installation. install the adjoining piece.
PREPARING FOR A TRIM PROJECT 187
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Removing Old Trim
amaged trim moldings are an eyesore and a
D potentially dangerous splinter waiting to happen.
There is no reason not to remove damaged moldings
and replace them. Home centers and lumberyards sell
many styles of moldings, but they may not stock the
one you need, especially if you live in an older home. If
you have trouble finding the trim you need, consider Even trim that’s been damaged should be removed carefully
looking at home salvage stores in your area. They to avoid inflicting harm on innocent bystanders, like the
sometimes carry styles no longer manufactured. baseboard behind the splintered base shoe above.
Removing existing trim so that it can be reused is
not always easy, especially if you live in a home with
intricate moldings. Age of the trim and the nailing TOOLS & MATERIALS
sequence used to install it greatly affect your ability Utility knife Side cutters or end nippers
to remove it without cracks or splits. Some moldings
may be reusable in other areas of the home as well. Flat pry bars (2) Scrap plywood
Whether you intend to reuse the trim or not, take Nail set or dimensional lumber
your time and work patiently. It is always a good idea Hammer Eye protection
to remove trim carefully so you don’t damage the Metal file Gloves
finished walls, floor, or ceiling surrounding it.
How to Remove Painted Moldings
1
2
Before removing painted trim, cut along the top seam of the Work the molding away from the wall from one end to the
molding and the wall with a new, sharp blade in a utility knife. other, prying at the nail locations. Apply pressure to the
Cut completely through the paint and caulk between the molding molding with your other hand to help draw it away from the
and the wall. If you wish to salvage the material, cut with the knife wall. A wide joint compound or putty knife makes a good
blade at a slight angle to avoid slipping and cutting across the face. guard to insert between the tool and the wall.
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How to Remove Clear-finish Moldings
Use large flat scraps of wood to protect finished surfaces from
damage. Insert one bar beneath the trim and work the other
1 between the base and wall. Force the pry bars in opposing
directions to draw the molding away from the wall.
2
Remove the molding starting with the base shoe or the
thinnest piece of trim. Pry off the trim with a flat bar using
leverage rather than brute force and working from one end to
the other. Tap the end of the bar with a hammer if necessary
to free the trim.
How to Remove Nails
OPTION 1: Extraction. Use an end nippers or a side cutters to pull the nails from the
moldings. Take advantage of the rounded head of the end nippers, “rolling” the nail
out of the molding rather than pulling it straight out.
OPTION 2: Reversing course. Secure
the workpiece with a gap beneath
the nail and drive the nail through
the molding from the front with a
nail set and hammer.
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Essential Trim
Carpentry Skills
rom nailing base shoe to cutting crown molding,
F most trim carpentry jobs require the same basic
skill set. First (and probably foremost), you’ll need to
use reliable measuring techniques and apply them
carefully to get accurate results. Simply running out
the old tape measure and dashing off a couple of
rough numbers won’t do the trick. You’ll need to learn
the limitations of the measuring tools you use as well
as some tricks for getting accurate readings in tight or
irregular paces.
Taking the measurement is only half the battle:
you’ll also need to transfer the measurement to your
workpiece, either with measuring tools or by using
mechanical methods such as tracing. Then you can
begin to worry about selecting the best cutting tool
and making sure it is set up accurately.
Making the actual cut is not time-consuming,
especially if you are using power tools. The best
method is to make a creep cut: You secure the
workpiece and make a slight cut just outside the
cutting line. Then move the workpiece closer and
closer to the blade until it is cutting right on the line.
Once you’ve cut all your workpieces, they’ll need
sanding and perhaps some additional fitting before
they are installed. In many cases, it makes sense to
paint or finish the pieces prior to installation as well.
In this chapter:
• Measuring & Marking
• Cutting & Fitting Joints
• Finishing Trim
• Sanding Trim
• Painting Trim
• Clear-Coating Trim
ESSENTIAL SKILLS 191
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Measuring & Marking TOOLS & MATERIALS
Measuring tape Squared-off fence
Clamps
here are three keys to measuring accurately: taking
T the measurement, transferring the measurement,
and hitting your mark when you make the final cut. to accurately transfer inside measurements to the
The first two keys depend upon proper use of your material you are cutting. When you are measuring an
measuring tools. You can take measurement upon inside measurement, make sure the hook is pushed
measurement and doublecheck a dozen times, but in. The measurement starts from the outside of the
if you’re not using the correct tool techniques, your hook. When you hook the tape onto your workpiece,
prospects for success are greatly diminished. make sure that the hook is pulled out. You are now
A retractable tape measure is the most important transferring this measurement from the inside of
measuring tool for most trim carpenters (although the hook.
it is definitely not the most accurate). Depending on When you are marking your workpiece, use a
whether you are taking an inside measurement or an mechanical pencil or a #2.5 lead pencil. The lead in a
outside measurement, you have to be aware of how #2.5 is harder than a #2 pencil’s lead, thus giving you
a tape measure works. The hook at the end of the a darker line. Try to make a single line mark. Multiple
tape is secured by rivets that allow it to move. The lines will become fat and you will lose accuracy. For
amount that the hook moves is the same distance very delicate cuts where great accuracy is required,
as the thickness of the hook itself. This allows you use a marking knife to score a cutting line.
How to Measure from a Mitered Edge
Position the workpiece to be cut against Place the hook of your tape measure
an auxiliary fence on your miter saw so against the end of the fence and pull
the inside of the miter is flush with the Fence the tape to transfer your measurement
edge of the fence. Clamp the workpiece to the workpiece.
to the fence.
Inside face
Workpiece
Auxiliary fence Make sure the short (inside) face of the
mitered board is aligned with the edge
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Using Measuring Tools
To mark a line parallel to the edge of
Easy-read Standard a board, lock the blade at the desired
tape measure tape measure measurement, then hold the tip of the
pencil along the edge of the blade as
you slide the tool along the workpiece.
This is useful when marking reveal lines
on window and door jambs.
Purchase a well-made 25-ft. tape measure Use the trim piece as a measuring
for general trim projects. With the actual device, marking the cut line directly off
fractions printed on the tape, “easy-read” the wall. Eliminating the tape measure
varieties are more user-friendly and help can reduce errors and make it easier to
avoid confusion and cutting errors. visualize the cut.
Use a T-bevel to find the appropriate bevel angle for walls Scribe the back of a molding and check the mark with a
that are out of plumb and for many other angle measuring square to determine whether or not the corner is plumb. If the
situations. Tighten the T-bevel and transfer the angle to your scribe mark is not square, transfer the angle to your saw with
miter saw to set up for cutting the molding. a T-bevel and make a compound miter cut.
ESSENTIAL SKILLS 193
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Cutting & Fitting Joints p
y
utting and fitting joints is a skill that requires walls that are not plumb and corners that are out
C patience, knowledge, and well-maintained
equipment to achieve effective results. There are a
of square. Take the time to read through the proper
techniques of using a miter saw as well as the correct
few basic joints that are generally used for most trim method for cutting each individual joint. These
applications: butt, inside and outside miter, scarf, and techniques are described in detail to help you work
coped joints. through the imperfections found in every house and
Although cutting trim joints accurately is the key to avoid common problems during installation.
function of a power miter saw, it is not the only tool The first step to achieving an accurate cut is to
necessary for quality joinery. Coped joints require a set up your saws so they are true. On a power miter
coping saw as well as a set of metal files. For some saw, check that the blade is perpendicular to the
trim applications such as frame-and-panel wainscot, base and to the fence. The second step to making an
fitting butt joints is simplified with the use of a biscuit accurate cut is to ensure that your workpiece is flat
jointer or a pocket hole jig. These are specialty tools on the base and tight against the fence. This will not
designed for joining wood. only ensure accurate cuts but will hold the workpiece
Cutting and fitting joints during installation can be firmly in place. Be sure to refer to the manufacturer’s
very frustrating, especially when it involves difficult instructions when adjusting the saw.
Careful cutting is the hallmark of good joinery, be it
for making furniture or installing trim moldings. Used
correctly, a power miter saw offers the speed and precision
to make your project look like it was done by a pro.
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Cutting with a Power Miter Saw
There are two general types of power miter saw. The compound angle is extremely helpful in situations
basic type cuts mitered angles when material is placed where a corner is out of plumb and a mitered angle
against the fence or beveled angles when material is requires a bevel to compensate. Some compound saws
placed flat on the work surface. The second type is are available with a sliding feature that allows you to
called a compound miter saw. Compound saws allow cut through wider stock with a smaller blade size. This
you to cut a miter and a bevel simultaneously. The option raises the cost of the saw considerably.
Waste side
Creep cuts. To avoid cutting off too much, start out by making Use stops on your saw base or saw stand to make uniform
a cut about ¼" to the waste side of the cutting line. Then cuts of multiple pieces. If your saw or stand doesn’t have
nibble at the workpiece with one or more additional cuts until adjustable stops or if the workpiece is longer than the
you have cut up to the cutting line. Wait until the blade stops saw stop capacity, clamp a wood block to the saw table or
before raising the arm on every cut. worksurface to function as a stop.
How to Cut Wide Stock
With a power miter saw: Make a full downward cut. Release
the trigger and let the blade come to a full stop, then raise the
saw arm. Flip the workpiece over and finish the cut.
With a sliding compound miter saw: Equipped with a saw
Blade guard removed for clarity carriage that slides away from the fence, these saws have
greater cutting capacity than a nonsliding saw so they can cut
wider stock. They’re also more expensive, but you may find it
worth renting one.
ESSENTIAL SKILLS 195
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Mitering Outside Corners Combination Pneumatic
square or finish
Cutting outside miters is one of the main functions of a power miter framing nail gun
saw. Most saws have positive stops (called detents) at 45° in each square T-bevel
direction, so standard outside corners are practically cut for you by the Miter saw Molding
saw. Keep in mind that your saw must be accurately set up to cut joints
Pencil Masking tape
squarely. Read the owner’s manual for setting up your saw as well as for
safety precautions. Before you begin, check the walls for square with a Tape measure 1×4
combination square or a framing square. If the corner is very close to Air compressor Eye protection
square, proceed with the square corner installation. If the corner is badly Air hose
out of square, follow the “Out of Square” procedure on the following page.
How to Miter Outside Corners
2
1
Set the miter saw to 45°. Position the first piece on edge, flat Set the miter saw blade to the opposing 45° positive stop.
on the miter box table, flush against the fence. Hold the piece Place the second piece of molding on edge, flat on the saw
firmly in place with your left hand, and cut the trim with a table, flush against the fence. Fasten the piece tightly in place
slow, steady motion. Release the power button of the saw, and with a hold-down or clamp. Cut the molding with a slow,
remove the molding after the blade stops. steady motion.
Stud location Stud location 3
First piece
Second piece Shim 4
With the first piece of molding tacked in place, hold the If the corner joint does not fit tightly, shim the workpiece away
second piece in position and check the fit of the joint. If the from the fence to make minor adjustments until the joint fits
joint is tight, nail both pieces at stud locations. tightly. Shims should be a uniform thickness. Playing cards
work well.
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How to Miter Out-of-Square Outside Corners: Method 1
1 2
Reference line parallel to wall
Draw a reference line off each wall of the corner using a To find the angle you need to miter your moldings, place a
straight 1 × 4. Put masking tape down on the finished floor T-bevel with the handle flush against one wall, and adjust the
to avoid scuffing it and to see your lines clearly. Trace along blade so that it intersects the point where your reference lines
each wall, connecting the traced lines at a point out from the meet. Lock the blade in place at this angle.
tip of the corner.
How to Miter Out-of-Square Outside Corners: Method 2
Use a digital angle finder to record the exact outside corner
angle. These tools are sold in a wide price range, with some
costing as little as $30.
Digital angle finder
2
Do some math. If the outside corner angle is not a whole
number (most angle finders give readings in 0.1° increments),
then round up. For example, if the angle finder measures
the outside angle at 91.4°, round up to 92° and cut the miter
at 44° (180° - 92° = 88° and the miter is half of this, which
is 44°). A big mistake is to divide the angle in half without
subtracting it from 180. In this case, a 92° angle readout
1 divided in half would yield 46°, which at 2° off the mark would
easily cause a visible mistake in the miter.
ESSENTIAL SKILLS 197
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Mitering Inside Corners
Although most professionals prefer to cope-cut
inside corners, it is common to see moldings that TOOLS & MATERIALS
are mitered to inside corners. These joints are more Miter saw Air compressor
likely to separate over time and to allow gaps to show.
For that reason it is not advised to use inside corner Pencil Air hose
miters when installing a stain-grade trim product. Tape measure Molding
The gaps will be visible and are very difficult to fill Utility knife T-bevel w
with putty. For paint-grade projects, mitering inside Pneumatic finish Eye protection
corners makes more sense because joints can be filled nail gun y
and sanded before the top coats of paint are applied.
w
How to Miter Square Inside Corners
Back-cut the inside edge of the trim piece with a utility knife so p
that the top corner will sit flush against the wall corner.
1
2
Set the miter saw to 45° and place the first piece of trim on
edge, flat on the miter box table and flush against the fence.
Hold the piece firmly in place with your left hand and cut the
trim with a slow, steady motion. Release the power button and Front face of trim piece
remove the molding after the blade stops.
Test the fit of the joint, adjusting the miter angle if necessary.
Once the fit is tight, nail both pieces at stud locations.
Stud location
Stud location
4
3
Butt the molding tightly against the wall and tack it into place.
Adjust the blade of the miter saw to the opposite 45° angle,
and cut the mating piece.
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TIP
Out-of-Plumb Corner Cuts
Out-of-plumb walls are concave, convex, or simply
not perpendicular to the floor and ceiling at one
or more points. It is a common condition. In some
cases, the condition is caused by the fact that drywall Bevel gauge
sheets have tapered edges to make taping joints
easier and the tapers fall at the edge of a work area
where trim is installed. In other cases, the condition
may be caused by wall-framing issues. In either case,
you’ll find that it’s easier to adapt your trim pieces
to the wall than to try and straighten the finished
wall surface. To do this, the trim pieces need to be Occasionally, a compound cut is necessary for cutting
cut to match the out-of-plumb area, to compensate miters on out-of-plumb corners. When this situation
for the taper in the panel. Another option is to arises, set the bevel of the miter saw to match the out-
of-plumb wall, and miter the angle at the appropriate
install a running spacer along the bottom edge, and
degree. Compound cuts can be difficult to get right the
then to cut your molding square, as shown on the first time, so test the fit with a piece of scrap material first.
previous page.
How to Make Out-of-Plumb Corner Cuts
1 2
Stud location
Stud location
Place a T-bevel into the corner and press the blade flush to Transfer the angle of the T-bevel to the miter saw blade by
the wall surface. Tighten the adjustment knob so the blade locking the saw in the down position and adjusting the angle
conforms to the angle of the profile of the wall. to match the angle of the T-bevel. Cut the molding to match
the angle.
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Making Coped Cuts
At first glance, coping moldings appears to be difficult
work that only a professional would attempt. But in
actuality, coping only requires patience and the right tools.
Whether a molding is installed flat against the wall or
is sprung to fill an inside corner junction, as with crown
molding, the concept of coping is the same. It is essentially
cutting back the body of a trim piece along its profile. This
cutting is done at an angle so that only the face of the
molding makes direct contact with the adjoining piece.
For beginners, coping a molding requires a coping
saw, a utility knife, and a set of metal files with a variety
of profiles. The initial cope cut is made with the coping
saw, and the joint is fitted with a utility knife and files.
This fitting can be a long process, especially when
working with intricate crown moldings, but the results
are superior to any other method.
TOOLS & MATERIALS a
t
Miter saw Pneumatic finish s
Metal files or rasp set nail gun
Utility knife Air compressor
Pencil Air hose
Coping is a tricky skill to learn, but a valuable capability to
Tape measure Molding possess once you’ve got the process down. With very few
Coping saw Eye protection exceptions, a coped cut can be made only with a handsaw
(usually, a coping saw like the one shown above).
How to Make Coped Cuts
Measure, cut, and install the first trim piece. Square-cut Cut the second piece of molding at a 45° angle as if it were
the ends, butting them tightly into the corners, and nail the an inside miter. The cut edge reveals the profile of the
workpiece at the marked stud locations. cope cut.
1 2
T
j
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4
Stop cut here
3
Make the long, straight cut along the edge of the molding. An The more traditional way to make this cut is to use a coping
easy, accurate way to do this is to use a power miter saw set saw cutting at a 45° bevel. Finish cutting the profile with a
at about a 2° miter. Use a spacer between the workpiece and coping saw.
the saw fence and cut through the workpiece, stopping just
short of the profile.
TIP: RASPS & FILES
5
Trim components such as this chair rail can be complex
Test-fit the piece (inset photo) and use a metal file to fit the to cope properly. A variety of rasps or metal files with
joint precisely. When the joint is properly fitted, nail the coped different profiles is the key to fitting these joints tightly.
piece in place.
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Cutting Mitered Returns
Mitered returns are a decorative treatment used to cut of the process leaves the return loose where it can
hide the end grain of wood and provide a finished sometimes be thrown from the saw by the air current
appearance when molding stops prior to the end of a of the blade. Plan on using a piece of trim that is long
wall. Mitered returns range from tiny pieces of base enough to cut comfortably, or you will find yourself
shoe up to very large crown moldings. They are also fighting the saw.
commonly used when installing a stool and apron
treatment or on decorative friezes above doors.
Bevel returns are another simple return option TOOLS & MATERIALS
for chair rails, baseboards, and base shoe. A bevel
return is simply a cut at the end of the molding that Combination square Air compressor
“returns” the workpiece back to the wall at an angle. Utility knife Air hose
The biggest advantage to using mitered returns Power miter saw T-bevel
rather than bevel returns is that mitered returns
already have a finish applied. Bevel returns require Miter box and back saw Molding
more touchups. Pencil Wood glue
Cutting mitered returns for small moldings, such Tape measure Eye protection
as quarter round, or for thin stock, such as baseboard, Pneumatic finish nail gun
can be tricky when using a power miter saw. The final
Mitered return
3. Cut here (45°)
Straight cut
Waste piece Mitered joint
1. Start with 2. Cut here (45°) 4. Attach
square stock mitered return
Returns are made from two 45° angle cuts. The scrap piece is Mitered returns finish molding ends that would otherwise be
removed and the return piece is glued into place. exposed. Miter the main piece as you would at an outside
corner. Cut a miter on the return piece, then cut it to length
with a straight cut so it butts to the wall. Attach the return
piece with wood glue.
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How to Cut Mitered Returns in Shoe
1
Mitered return
2
Cut the shoe molding to length, leaving an inside 45° miter at Mark the return: Cut a piece of shoe with the opposite miter
the end that is open or butts against door casing. Install the to the installed piece. Draw a straight cutting line across the
shoe (always nail shoe to the base trim, not to the floor). The workpiece so it is the same thickness as the installed piece of
shoe, at its longest point, should be aligned with the edge of shoe. Cut carefully along the cutting line.
the casing.
3
Mitered return Beveled return
OPTION: Instead of making a mitered return, make a
Glue the return piece to the end of the installed piece of shoe partial miter cut to clip the corner of the square-cut base
to create a clean mitered return end that butts neatly against shoe, softening the line where it meets the casing.
the casing.
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Cutting Scarf Joints
Scarf joint is a technical term for the miter joint used
to join two pieces of trim over a long length. This joint
is not difficult to cut, but should always be laid out
over a stud location so it can be properly fastened.
Whenever possible, position scarf joints so they
point away from the main entry to the room (or
another area from which the joint is most likely to be
viewed). Doing so will hide the joint from view at a
quick glance.
When forming scarf joints in moldings that will be
painted, lightly sand the mating surfaces of the joint
to flush out any imperfections, and fill any resulting
gaps with filler. Prefinished stain-grade materials
need to be tightly fitted and the nail holes filled
with putty.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Miter saw Air compressor
Pencil Air hose A scarf joint is a glorified butt joint that’s used to join two
pieces of trim that are the same profile and are in line with
Tape measure Molding one another. Scarf joints are easier to conceal than butt joints
Pneumatic finish nail gun Eye Protection and also less prone to opening and showing gaps when
humidity or temperature change.
TIP
Stud location (better choice
for scarf joint location)
Stud location close
to corner
Scarf joint
Determine the stud where the scarf joint will be located along the length of the
run before cutting any of your stock. Divide the run as evenly as possible while
optimizing material yield. In other words, avoid creating a joint too close to the
end of the run because it can look unbalanced. Measure the length for the Any type of molding can be joined
first piece of molding from the corner to the center of the stud location. into a longer segment with an angled
scarf joint.
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How to Cut a Scarf Joint
1 2
Waste
Waste
Lay the first mating board flat on a compound miter saw table Set the second mating board onto the saw table with the waste
with the top edge pressed against the fence and the waste portion left of the blade. Do not change the saw setup. Cut the
portion of the workpiece on the right side of the blade. Make a workpiece with the same 30° bevel.
30° bevel cut.
Top Glue
Open bevel
Piece 1
Piece 1
Piece 2
Piece 2
Back-cut bevel
Bottom
3 4
Test-fit the scarf joint on the wall (a helper is a great asset Tack the piece with the open bevel in position and apply wood
here). Have one person hold the piece with the open bevel glue (high-tack trim and molding glue is perfect here) to the
(Piece 2 above) in position while the other person places the open bevel. Re-form the scarf joint and tack the back-cut
piece with the back-cut bevel over it. Check for a tight joint piece in position. Finish nailing around the joint and then
and then mark the back-cut piece for trimming to final length. work your way toward each end with the nailer.
If both ends of the run are inside corners, you’ll have to
overlap the open-cut piece and mark for cutting to length.
ESSENTIAL SKILLS 205
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Finishing Trim
ven the best trim installation can look bad if the allow you to practice cutting joints and dealing with
E finishing is done poorly. That’s why the type of
finish and the quality of that finish make such a big
trimwork that can be easily filled and puttied, before
attempting the more difficult stain-grade project.
difference in the overall appearance of a room. Often, Although stain-grade trim projects usually are
the finish of a trim project is overlooked entirely or more expensive and take longer to finish than painted
done as an afterthought, and the installer may be so projects, the natural warmth and appearance of wood
tired of working on the project that he or she does a grain cannot be recreated with paint. Stained projects
lackluster job. To avoid this problem, finish as much of show off the quality of the trim material rather than
your trimwork as possible before you start to install. covering it up.
Paint-grade moldings should be primed on both sides To properly prepare your moldings for finish, place
and have one finish coat applied to the face. Stain-grade them on sawhorses or a workbench where they are
moldings should be stained and have two coats of easy to reach. When finish sanding, always sand with
polyurethane on the face and one coat on the backside. the grain of the wood, stepping your way up to the
This way, after the moldings are installed, all you need coarser grits as you work (each finer grit smooths
to do is fill the nail holes and apply a final coat (and out the sanding marks from the previous grit). After
sometimes you can get away without the final coat). sanding all the pieces smooth, wipe them down with
Before you buy your material, you need to decide a dry cloth (or better yet, a tack cloth) to remove dust.
what type of finish you will be using. The basic choice After applying each coat of polyurethane, primer,
is between a painted finish and a clear finish over or paint, examine each piece of trim for surface
natural wood. problems like dribbles, pooling, or skip marks. These
If you are a novice do-it-yourselfer, consider making areas need to be dealt with in a timely fashion so they
your first trim project one with a painted finish. do not telegraph through the final coat.
Installing decorative crown molding with a lustrous Regardless of the type of finish you choose, take the
wood finish might have great appeal for you, but starting time to prepare and properly finish your moldings. In
out with a painted baseboard installation in a bedroom the end, you’ll be glad you did; your trim will look better,
or utility-type room is more realistic. This project will and the overall quality of your installation will improve.
Prefinish your moldings. Always apply
one coat to the backs of the moldings to
seal the entire piece and help balance
wood movement.
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Finishing Trimwork
Painted trim projects are easier for the novice do-it-yourselfer Use a soft toothbrush to apply brush-on finishes to hard-
because nail holes and gaps in joinery (and other mistakes) to-reach areas, like spindle-and-rail moldings and other
are easier to conceal. ornamental trim pieces.
1. Attach waxed paper
to wall before trim
is nailed.
2. Pull waxed paper
out after trim finish
is applied and dry.
Gently but thoroughly stir clear topcoating products like If you don’t have time to prefinish your casings before installing,
polyurethane before and during application. Do not shake the tape waxed paper to the walls before attaching the trim. Then
product or air bubbles will develop in the liquid, leaving burst when you apply your finish, the walls will already be masked off.
marks behind on the finished surface. Lap the seams so that any drips on the paper stay off the wall.
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Sanding Trim
o matter what type of finish you apply, every below 100 are generally made for rough material
N piece of wood furniture requires sanding to
ensure a smooth surface. Preparing trim pieces to
removal, not sanding smooth. Trim used in painted
projects generally is ready for primer after sanding
accept stain, primer, or polyurethane is essentially the at 120-grit. Stain-grade projects look better when the
same process. The only difference is at which grit level wood is sanded up to 150- or 180-grit.
you call the sanding complete. Remember that the purpose behind sanding is to
Before you start sanding, do a visual check of each remove marks left from the machining process and
trim piece. Inspect the edges for splintering. Most leave a smooth surface to finish. Be careful to avoid
splintering is easily sanded smooth, but larger splinters rounding over the edges and any joint surfaces.
may need to be glued down. If you’re installing clear- Choose tools and methods for sanding your
finished trim, look for large imperfections in the wood. trim pieces, and use them consistently for all
The sections of trim containing these blemishes grit levels. Sand the trim with long, even strokes
should not be used whenever possible. Mark the area running in the grain direction, and reposition the
of the molding around the blemish with pencil lines, paper frequently to expose new grit to the material.
and don’t bother to sand it. When you are finished sanding, wipe the pieces
Most factory-made moldings are smooth enough down with a dry cloth or tack cloth before applying
off the shelf to start sanding at 100- or 120-grit. Grits the finish.
Use foam-backed sandpaper for curved or intricate trim pieces Mark large blemishes with a pencil, designating them as scrap
to avoid sanding down the high points of the molding. material. Don’t bother to sand these areas smooth.
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Sanding Trim
Repair large splinters with wood glue.
Use a sanding block to smooth out flat surfaces evenly. Sanding blocks can
Use masking tape to “clamp” the
also be made from scrap wood, such as a 2 × 4.
piece until the glue sets. Then remove
the tape and sand the area smooth to
remove excess glue.
Wipe away the dust after the final sanding with a clean, dry Sand very lightly between finish coats with 220-grit paper.
cloth. Inspect the face of each piece one final time before This scratches the surface just enough for the next coat to
applying the finish. adhere properly and also removes minor imperfections in the
first finish coat.
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Painting Trim
aint-grade trim projects are easier to complete
P when the moldings have been prefinished.
Although you will still need to apply the final topcoat
after installation, this simplified method ensures that
paint goes on evenly and helps avoid paint marks on
finished walls and ceilings.
In their rush to get going on a trim project, many do-it-
yourselfers completely skip coating the trim with primer
and move right to finish paint. Primer is important.
It creates a stronger bond with the raw material than
paint alone, greatly reducing cracking and bubbling of Cut bucket
the top coats. Primer also costs less than good-quality
finish paint and can be tinted to match the finish color,
reducing the number of necessary finish coats.
Trimwork is generally primed on both the front
and back to seal the entire piece, balancing the wood
Pour a paint additive into the mix to reduce brush marks on
movement from humidity and temperature changes.
the finished product. A “cut bucket” like the one above is
After the primer is dry, two finish coats are applied to easier to handle than a gallon pail and creates a convenient
the face. When the finish coats are dry, the molding way to mix the products.
can be installed. After installation, gaps in joints and
fastener holes need to be filled. The final step is to Use a high-quality bristle brush to paint
apply a touchup coat to the filler areas. trimwork. Straightedge brushes around 2 inches
are the tool of choice for many professional
painters when painting moldings. Quality brushes
have a shaped wooden handle and a sturdy,
Paint trim moldings with a higher- reinforced ferule made of noncorosive metal. Many
sheen paint than the surrounding also have flagged, or split, bristles with chiseled
walls. Paint with higher gloss ends for precise work. If bristle marks are a
is more durable and highlights
the trim, drawing attention to
concern, consider putting an additive in the paint.
interesting details. Paint additives thin the paint without affecting its
durability or sheen. The result is a paint that flows
on smoother and lays out flatter when dry. Using
an additive may require that you apply at least one
additonal coat.
After each coat of primer or paint is applied,
carefully inspect each piece for drips or clots. These
problems need to be dealt with quickly, or they
will mirror through the final coat. Remember that
multiple thin layers of paint look better and last
longer than one heavy coat. Heavy layers will also
hide any intricate details or crisp edging, and could
possibly make installation more difficult.
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Painting Trim
Dip the brush into the paint, loading one-third to one-half of its Paint moldings with thin, even coats starting along the deeper
bristle length. Tap the bristles against the inside of the can to grooves of the trim and moving on to the smooth areas. This
remove excess paint. Do not drag the bristles against the top sequence will minimize drips into the detail of the molding.
edge or rub them against the lip of a one-gallon can.
Use a small paint roller to coat long, straight strips of trim Clean the brush with mineral spirits when using oil-based
material. Rollers make for fast work and don’t leave brush paint or with warm water when using water-based. Shake out
marks. If the paint is too thick or you roll too quickly, however, the brush and let it dry. Always start subsequent coats with a
the roller can create an orange-peel effect that you may not like. clean, dry brush.
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Clear-Coating Trim TOOLS & MATERIALS
Bristle brush or foam brush Sawhorses
Latex gloves Plastic bag (optional)
ater-based and oil-based finishes have a few
W basic differences in application and results that
you should be aware of so that you can make the best
Stir sticks
Paint can opener
Trim material
Polyurethane
decision about which product is right for you. Drop cloth or cardboard Stain (optional)
Not long ago, oil-based polyurethanes were
regarded as much more durable and capable of
providing more even coverage than water-based
products. Today, this is not always the case. The major
differences between modern oil and water urethanes
are not related to finish quality as much as secondary
(but important) characteristics such as odor, finish
appearance, and drying times. The durability of water-
based products is no longer an issue. In fact, the most
durable urethanes available are water-based.
Oil products emit fumes during drying that can Water-based polyurethane over uncolored red oak
linger for weeks. Pregnant women and young children
should avoid these fumes altogether. Water-based
products create minimal fumes and are not dangerous
under normal conditions with adequate ventilation.
According to most manufacturers, water-based
products offer faster drying times than oil varieties.
This literally means less time spent between coats.
Water-based urethanes also clean up with soap and
warm water, rather than mineral spirits. Easy cleanup
can come in handy for large spills.
The biggest factor to consider when choosing a type Uncolored red oak with no topcoat finish
of polyurethane is finish appearance. Although water-
based products offer many more conveniences than
oil, the results can be quite different. When oil-based
urethanes are applied, they add a warm amber color to
trimwork that creates more visual depth and variety.
Water-based products dry crystal clear. The color
of the trim before the product is applied is similar
to the finished product. Only a light color change
appears. Keep in mind that most of the clear-finished
trim in an older house is oil-based, and water-based
Oil-based polyurethane over uncolored red oak
finishes will not match.
The following examples run through the steps
The finished appearance of oil-based and water-based
of successful clear-coat finishing. These steps are
urethanes often differs. Oil-based products (bottom photo) tend
a guideline to finishing only. Always follow the to darken or yellow the trim, which can have the positive effect
manufacturer’s specific application directions. Drying of highlighting grain characteristics. Water-based products (top
times will vary, depending on temperature and humidity. photo) offer easier cleanup and faster drying times.
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TIPS FOR WORKING WITH URETHANES
Always stir urethan Apply urethane in
products to a well-ventilated
properly mix them. area. Lack of
Never shake them. ventilation or
Shaking creates heavily applied
tiny air bubbles in product will result
the product that in longer drying
will follow to your times. If you use
project. Before a fan to increase
opening the can, ventilation, aim
roll it gently upside it away from the
down a few times project: do not blow
to loosen the air directly on the
settled material project or dust and
from the bottom. other contaminants
will adhere to
your finish.
How to Apply a Clear Finish
Set up the work
station area with
1 two sawhorses
and a drop
cloth or sheet of
cardboard on the
floor. Place the
trim pieces to be
finished on the
horses. Inspect
each piece for
large blemishes
or flaws, repairing
any large splinters
(see page 209).
Sand each piece
as necessary,
2 finishing with
a fine-grit
paper. Wipe the
moldings with a
clean, dry cloth
to remove any
leftover dust.
(continued)
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If desired, apply
a coat of stain to
the moldings with 3
a foam or bristle
brush. For more
even coverage of
the stain, apply
a pre-stain wood
conditioner.
Follow the
manufacturer’s
instructions for
stain drying time,
and remove the
excess with a
clean rag.
Let the stain
dry sufficiently
and apply the 4
first thin coat of
polyurethane
with a brush. Stir
the polyurethane
frequently before
you begin,
between coats,
and during
application. Let
the finish dry for
four to six hours.
After the finish
has dried, lightly
sand the entire 5
surface with 220-
grit sandpaper.
This will ensure a
smooth finish with
a strong bond
between layers.
If the sandpaper
gums up quickly,
the moldings
need more time
to dry.
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Let the moldings dry for four to six hours and lightly sand the
entire surface with 220-grit sandpaper.
7
6
Wipe the moldings with a clean, dry rag to remove any dust.
Apply a second layer of polyurethane. Check each piece for
skipped areas and heavy drips of urethane. These areas need
to be corrected as soon as possible or they may show through
the final coat.
Apply a third and final coat of polyurethane to the moldings.
Keep the third coat very thin, using only the tip of the brush
to apply it. Lightly drag the tip across the molding on the flat
areas. If the moldings have deep grooves or intricate details,
skip these areas; two coats will be sufficient. Try to maintain
constant pressure and avoid smashing the brush as this
will create air bubbles in your finish. Allow the moldings to
dry for a minimum of 12 hours (check the manufacturer’s
recommended drying times).
8
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Trim Carpentry
Projects
ith a full set of trim carpentry skills safely
W under your tool belt, it’s time to get to work.
Simpler projects make good jumping off points. For
example, install case molding around a window or
door. Depending on the method you choose, even this
simple project will involve cutting 45° miters—not
hard, but if you’re off you’ll see it right away.
As you gain experience and confidence, tackle
some more challenging trim carpentry projects, such
as installing frame-and-panel wainscot or adding
built-up crown molding to dress up a plain room.
Once you’ve convinced yourself that your tools are not
a complete menace to your materials, try upgrading
to some hardwood trim stock. It’s less forgiving
and more expensive than paint-grade trim, but the
warmth of real wood is well worth it in many homes.
In this chapter:
• One-piece Base Molding
• Built-up Base Molding
• Picture Rail
• Chair Rail
• Built-up Chair Rail
• Crown Molding
• Built-up Crown Molding
• Polymer Crown
• Basic Casing
• Window Stool & Apron
• Arts & Crafts Casing
• Basement Window Trim
• Wall Frame Moldings
• Wainscot Frames
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One-piece Base Molding
aseboard trim is installed to conceal the joint
B between the finished floor and the wallcovering
(a necessary feature of a house). Installing plain, one-
piece baseboard such as ranch-style base or cove base
is a straightforward project. Outside corner joints are
mitered, inside corners are coped, and long runs are
Baseboard doesn’t need to be fancy to be effective. Without a
joined with scarf cuts. shoe or a cap, a plain, one-piece base molding makes a neat
The biggest difficulty to installing base is dealing transition from floor to wall.
with out-of-plumb and nonsquare corners. However, a
T-bevel makes these obstacles easy to overcome.
Plan the order of your installation prior to cutting TOOLS & MATERIALS
any pieces, and lay out a specific piece for each
length of wall. It may be helpful to mark the type of Pencil Pneumatic finish nail gun
cut on the back of each piece so you don’t have any Tape measure & compressor
confusion during the install. Power miter saw Pneumatic fasteners
Locate all studs and mark them with painter’s tape Carpenter’s glue
6 inches higher than your molding height. If you need T-bevel
to make any scarf joints along a wall, make sure they Coping saw Finishing putty
fall on the center of a stud. Before you begin nailing Metal file set Eye protection
trim in place, take the time to pre-finish the moldings. Moldings
Doing so will minimize the cleanup afterward.
How to Install One-piece Base Molding
Cut the second piece of molding oversized by 6 to 10", and
cope-cut the adjoining end to the first piece. Fine-tune
the cope with a metal file and sandpaper. Dry-fit the joint,
adjusting it as necessary to produce a tight-fitting joint.
1
2
1
Measure, cut, and install the first piece of baseboard. Butt
both ends into the corners tightly. For longer lengths, it is a
good idea to cut the piece slightly oversized (up to 1⁄16" on
strips over 10 ft. long) and “spring” it into place. Nail the
molding in place with two nails at every stud location.
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2
3 4
3
2
2
1
Check the corner for square with a framing square. If Adjust the miter angle of your saw to cut the adjoining outside
necessary, adjust the miter cut of your saw. Use a T-bevel to corner piece. Test fit the cut to ensure a tight joint (inset
transfer the proper angle. Cut the second piece (coped) to photo). Remove the mating piece of trim, and fasten the first
length, and install it with two nails at each stud location. piece for the outside corner joint.
6
3 4
3
5
Lay out any scarf joints by placing the piece in position so Nail the third piece in place, making sure the outside corner
that the previous joint is tight, and then marking the center joint is tight. Cut the end of the fourth piece to match the
of a stud location nearest the opposite end. Set the angle of scarf joint angle, and nail it in place with two nails at each
your saw to a 30° angle, and cut the molding at the marked stud location. Add the remaining pieces of molding, fill the
location (see pages 224 to 225). nail holes with putty, and apply a final coat of finish.
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Built-up Base Molding
uilt-up base molding is made up of several strips easier to conceal, and the height of the molding is
B of wood (usually three) that are combined for
a particular effect. It is installed in two common
completely up to you, making heat registers and other
obstructions easier to deal with.
scenarios: (1) to match existing trim in other rooms In this project, the base molding is made of
of a house or (2) to match a stock one-piece molding high-grade plywood rather than solid stock lumber.
that is not available. Plywood is more economical and dimensionally stable
Installing a built-up base molding is no more than solid lumber and can be built up to any depth
difficult than a standard one-piece molding, because as well as cut down to any height. Keep in mind that
the same installation techniques are used. However, plywood molding is less durable than solid wood and
built-up base molding offers a few advantages over is only available in 8- and 10-foot lengths, making
standard stock moldings. Wavy floors and walls are joints more frequent.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Pneumatic finish nail gun Nail set Sandpaper Base shoe molding
Air compressor Tablesaw or straightedge Power sander Cap molding
Air hose guide and circular saw ¾" finish-grade 2" finish nails, wood putty
Miter saw Pencil oak plywood Eye protection
Hammer Tape measure
Built-up base trim is made by combining baseboard, base shoe, and another molding type, typically cap molding.
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1
Cap molding
Wall Baseboard (plywood)
Base shoe
Floor
Cut the plywood panel into 6" strips with a tablesaw or a
straightedge guide and a circular saw. Lightly sand the strips,
removing any splinters left from the saw. Then apply the finish
of your choice to the moldings and the plywood strips.
BASE TRIM SPACERS
2
Stud location
Back-cut bevel
for scarf joint
Open bevel
for scarf joint
Baseboard can be built up on the back with spacer
strips so it will project farther out from the wall. This
can allow you to match existing casings or to create the
Install the plywood strips with 2" finish nails driven at stud impression of a thicker molding. However, the cap rail
locations. Use scarf joints on continuous runs, driving pairs needs to be thick enough to cover the plywood edge
of fasteners into the joints. Cut and install moldings so that all completely, or the core of the panel may be visible.
scarf joints fall at stud locations.
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Installing Built-up Base Molding
Nail and glue 45° 2
outside miter joint before
attaching baseboard
1
Test-fit inside corner butt joints before cutting a workpiece. Miter outside corners squarely at 45°. Use wood glue and 1¼"
If the walls are not square or straight, angle or bevel the end brad nails to pull the mitered pieces tight, and then nail the
cut a few degrees to fit the profile of the adjoining piece. The base to the wall at stud locations with 2" finish nails. Small
cap molding will cover any gaps at the top of the joint. See gaps at the bottom or top of the base molding will be covered
illustration, page 220. with cap or base shoe.
a
t
Attach cap to
Attach baseboard baseboard with
to wall studs with 18-ga., 5⁄8" brads
2" finish nails
Attach base shoe
to subfloor with
1½" finish nails
3
Use a brad nailer with 18-gauge, 5⁄8" brads to install the cap Built-up baseboard requires more attention to the nailing
and base shoe moldings along the edges of the plywood schedule than simple one-piece baseboards. The most important
base. Fit scarf joints on longer lengths, coped joints on consideration (other than making sure your nails are all driven
inside corners, and miter joints on outside corners. Stagger into studs or other solid wood), is that the base shoe must be
the seams so that they do not line up with the base molding attached to the floor, while the baseboard is attached to the wall.
seams. Set any protruding nails with a nail set, and fill all nail This way, as the gap between the wall and floor changes, the
holes with putty. parts of the built-up molding can change with them.
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Options with Heat Registers
Installing base molding around heat registers and cold-air returns can sometimes be
challenging. Register thickness and height vary, complicating installation. Here are a few
methods that can be employed for trimming around these obstructions.
Adjust the height of your
baseboard to completely
surround the heat
register opening. Then
cut a pocket out of the
base for the heat register
to slide into. Install the
base shoe and cap trim
molding continuously
across the edges of the
base board.
Install a taller backer
block to encompass
larger register openings.
Cut a hole the same size
as the duct opening in
the backer block and
cover the edges of the
plywood with cap rail,
mitering the rail at the
corners. Butt the base
molding into the sides
of the register. Cut and
install returns for the
base shoe flush with the
ends of the register.
Install a wooden heat
register for a less
noticeable appearance.
Wooden registers can be
finished to match your
trim and are available
through most hardwood
floor retailers. Butt the
base molding into the
ends of the register
cover, and bevel the front
edges of the base shoe
to match the depth of
the register.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Picture Rail Ladder
Pencil
Stud finder
icture rail molding is a specialty molding that was installed in many Tape measure
P older homes so the homeowners could avoid making nail holes in the
finished walls. Picture rail molding is a simple but elegant way to add style
Power miter saw
T-bevel
to any room. Special picture hanging hooks slide over the molding and
Pneumatic finish nail gun
artwork may be hung with a cord over the hook. Picture rail molding also
& compressor
provides its own decorative touch, breaking up the vertical lines from floor
to ceiling. For this reason, it is also installed as a decorative touch by itself. 4-ft. level or laser level
Picture rail molding is easy to install but should be reinforced with Drill with bits
screws, not brads or nails, especially if you are hanging large, heavy items. Painter’s tape
Depending on the style of your home, picture rail can be hung anywhere Moldings
from 1 foot to a few inches down from the ceiling. In some homes, picture
rail is added just below the cornice or crown molding for an additional layer Pneumatic fasteners
of depth. When applied this way, it is commonly referred to as a “sub-rail.” 15⁄8" drywall screws
In the example shown, the picture rail is installed using a level line Hole filler
to maintain height. If your ceiling is uneven, you may choose to install Eye protection
picture rail a set distance from the ceiling to avoid an uneven appearance.
Picture rail may still be used as a
support strip for hanging artwork,
although more often it is installed
solely for its decorative appeal.
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How to Install Picture Rail Molding
Measure down the desired distance from Calculate the cutting angle. First, adjust
the ceiling, and draw a level reference the saw blade so it is parallel to the arm
line around the room using a pencil 2 of the T-bevel when the handle is flush
and a 4-ft. level. Or use a laser level. against the saw fence. Note the number
Use a stud finder to locate the framing of degrees, if any, away from zero that
members, and mark the locations on the blade location reads. Subtract this
the walls with blue painter’s tape. number from 180 and divide by 2; this
is your cutting angle.
1
3
Use a T-bevel to measure the angle
of the corner, tightening the lock nut
with the blade and the handle on the
reference line. Place the T-bevel on
the table of your power miter saw, and
adjust the miter blade so that it matches
the angle.
Cut both mating parts at the same bevel Fill nail holes with wood filler. Let the
angle arrived at in step 3. When cutting filler dry and sand it smooth. Then
picture rail, the molding should be 5 apply a final coat of paint over the
positioned with the bottom edge resting molding face.
on the table and the back face flat
against the saw fence.
6
4
Nail the molding at the stud locations
covering the level line around the room
(if you’re using a laser level, you simply
keep it in position and turned on to cast
a reference line you can follow). After
each molding is completely nailed in
place, go back to each stud location and
drive 15⁄8" drywall screws into the molding
through counter-bored pilot holes.
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Chair Rail
hair rail molding typically runs horizontally along walls at a height of
C 32 to 36 inches (the rule of thumb is to install it one-third of the way
up the wall). Originally installed to protect walls from chair backs, today
chair rail is commonly used to divide a wall visually. Chair rail may cap
wainscot, serve as a border for wallpaper, or divide two different colors
on a wall. Or more interesting chair rail profiles can be effective alone on
a one-color wall.
Chair rail once was installed to protect
Stock chair rail moldings are available at most lumberyards and home fragile walls from chair backs, but today
centers. However, more intricate and elaborate chair rails can be crated it is mainly installed as a decorative
by combining multiple pieces of trim. accent that visually breaks up dull walls.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Pencil 4-ft. level Metal file set Carpenter’s glue
Stud finder Air compressor Moldings Finishing putty
Tape measure Finish nail gun Pneumatic fasteners Finishing materials
Power miter saw Coping saw Painter’s tape Eye protection
How to Install Chair Rail
1 2
On the starting wall of your installation, measure up the Measure, cut, and install the first piece of chair rail with the
desired height at which you plan to install the chair rail, minus ends cut squarely, butting into both walls (in a wall run with
the width of the molding. Mark a level line at this height two inside corners). Nail the molding in place with two 2"
around the room. Locate all studs along the walls, and mark finish nails at each stud location.
their locations with painter’s tape below the line.
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Miter-cut the second piece of molding
with a power miter saw and then cope
the end with a coping saw. Clean up the
edge of the cope cut with a metal file
to ensure a tight fit. Dry-fit the piece to
check for any gaps in the joint.
Coped joint
3
Coped piece
Butted piece
4
When the coped joint fits tightly, measure, mark, and
cut the opposing end of the second piece of trim
squarely with a miter saw. Nail the second piece in
place with two nails at each stud location. Follow the
level line with the bottom edge of the molding.
5
OPTION: Apply a painted finish for
Install the third piece of chair rail with a cope cut at one end. Use a butt joint where a more casual appearance. White
the molding runs into door and window casings. Fill all nail holes with putty, and semi-gloss is a safe choice.
apply a final coat of finish to the molding.
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Built-up Chair Rail
esigning and installing a built-up chair rail can be
D a very creative project that adds a considerable
amount of style to any room. For the project shown,
five smaller pieces of trim are combined with a 1 × 4
filler strip to create a bold, strong chair rail. If you
are considering a larger built-up chair rail, make sure
the existing base and crown moldings of the room
will not be overshadowed. A good rule of scale to
remember is that chair rail should always be smaller
than the crown or base.
If you plan to design your own molding, the
choices are just about endless. It is a good idea to
mimic the style of your existing moldings so that
the new chair rail will not look out of place. If the
room you are installing in currently has no chair rail,
consider new wall finishes as well. Two-tone painted
walls will emphasize the transition of a chair rail,
as will changing the finish from paint to wallpaper
or wainscot.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
A built-up chair rail is made of several styles of moldings, so
Ladder Drill with bits the design options are virtually unlimited. The profile shown
here features a strip of screen retainer on top of two pieces
Pencil Painter’s tape of profiled door stop. The stop molding is attached to a 1 × 4
Stud finder Moldings filler that is then softened at the top and bottom edges with
cover molding.
Tape measure Pneumatic fasteners
Power miter saw 15⁄8" drywall screws
Coping saw Hole filler
Pneumatic finish nail gun Finish materials
& compressor Eye protection
4-ft. level or laser level
Before you begin installing the molding pieces of the
built-up chair rail, decide what type of return you will
use. Returns are finish details that occur in areas where
different moldings meet at perpendicular angles or quit in
the middle of a wall. On some built-up chair rail, you can
take advantage of the depth of the molding by butting the
back moldings up to the obstructions but running the cap
moldings onto the surface.
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How to Install a Built-up Chair Rail
On the starting wall of your installation,
mark the desired height of the first chair
1 rail component you will install (here, the
1 × 4 filler strip). At this height, mark
a level line around the room. Locate all
studs along the walls, and mark their
locations with painter’s tape above
the line.
Cut and install the 1 × 4 filler strip so
that the top edge of the strip follows the
2 level line around the room. Fasten the
strip with two 2½" finish nails driven
at every stud location. Butt the ends
of the filler strip together, keeping in
mind that the joints will be covered by
additional moldings.
Cut and install the upper piece of cove
molding around the room, nailing it
3 flush to the top edge of the 1 × 4 filler
strip. Use scarf joints on long runs,
coped joints at inside corners, and
mitered joints on outside corners. Drive
one nail at every stud location into the
wall and one nail between each stud
down into the filler strip.
(continued)
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Install the lower piece of cove molding
flush with the bottom edge of the filler
strip. Use the same nailing sequence 4
as with the upper cove molding. Cut
scarf joints on long runs, coped joints
at inside corners, and mitered joints on
outside corners.
Measure, cut, and install the upper
piece of stop molding around the room,
driving two 1½" finish nails at each stud 5
location. Cut scarf joints, coped joints,
and mitered joints as necessary for
each piece. Stagger the seams of the
scarf joints on the stop molding so that
they do not line up with the scarf joints
of the cove moldings.
Install the lower piece of stop molding
around the room, keeping the edge of
the molding flush with the bottom edge 6
of the filler strip. Fit each joint using the
appropriate joinery method. Drive two
nails at each stud location.
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Screen molding will
conceal gap between
stop molding strips
7 8
Set a combination square to 13⁄8". Rest the body of the Install the screen retainer molding, as with the other moldings,
square on the top edge of the upper stop molding and use using the appropriate joints necessary. Fine-tune the cope
the blade of the square as a guide to mark a reference line cuts using a round metal file. Nail the molding in place with
around the room. This line represents the top edge of the a brad nailer and 15⁄8" brad nails. Keep the top edge of the
screen molding. molding flush with the reference line from Step 7.
10 Use a paintbrush to apply a final coat
of paint to the moldings. Cover the
finished floor with a drop cloth, and
protect the lower portion of the wall
from drips by masking it off with plastic
if necessary.
9
Set any nail heads with a nail set, and
fill all the nail holes with paintable wood
filler. Check for any gaps in the joinery,
and fill them as well. Let the filler
dry, and sand it smooth with 180-grit
sandpaper. Wipe the moldings with a
dry cloth to remove any dust.
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Crown Molding TOOLS & MATERIALS
Hammer Scrap of wood
Utility knife Eye protection
imply put, crown molding is angled trim that
S bridges the joint between the ceiling and the wall.
In order to cover this joint effectively, crown moldings
are “sprung.” This means that the top and bottom intricate profile crown that is virtually impossible to
edges of the molding have been beveled, so when the cope (and must therefore be mitered). While mitering
molding is tilted away from the wall at an angle, the inside corners may appear to save time and produce
tops and bottoms are flush on the wall and ceiling adequate results, after a few changing seasons the joints
surfaces. Some crown moldings have a 45° angle at will open up and be even more difficult to conceal.
both the top and the bottom edges; another common Installing crown molding in a brand-new, perfectly
style (“38° crown”) has a 38° angle on one edge and a square room is one thing, but what happens when
52° angle on the other edge. the walls and ceilings don’t meet at perfect right
Installing crown molding can be a challenging angles? In most houses that have been around for
and sometimes confusing process. Joints may be more than a couple of seasons, walls have bulges
difficult for you to visualize before cutting, and wall caused by warped studs or improper stud placement
and ceiling irregularities can be hard to overcome. that’s causing the drywall to push out into the room.
If you have not worked on crown molding joints Ceilings have issues caused by warped joists or
before, it is recommended that your first attempt be drywall that has loosened or pulled away from the
made with paint-grade materials. Stain-grade crown ceiling joists. Corners may be best finished with extra-
is commonly made of solid hardwood stock, which thick layers of joint compound that has been applied
makes for expensive cutting errors and difficulty a bit heavily, causing an outside corner piece to sit
concealing irregularities in joints. further away from the corner bead. These are just a
Inside corner joints of crown molding should few of the issues that can work against you and cause
be cope-cut, not mitered, except in the case of very even an experienced carpenter to become frustrated.
Basic crown molding softens the transitions between walls
and ceilings. If it is made from quality hardwood, crown
molding can be quite beautiful when installed and finished
with a clear top coat. But historically, it is most often
painted, either the same color as the ceiling (your eye
tends to see it as a ceiling molding, not a wall molding) or
with highly elaborate painted-and-carved details.
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HOW TO MAKE A GAUGE BLOCK
Make and use a gauge block to ensure that crown
molding is installed uniformly. A gauge block is used to
show where the bottom edge of the crown will sit on the
wall. This is especially important for laying out inside
and outside corners. To make a gauge block, place the
profile of crown upside down against the fence of your
saw. The top edge of the crown should lay flat against
the base. The fence represents the wall, and the base
represents the ceiling. The crown will be situated in the
same position as it would sit on the wall. Run a pencil
line across the bottom edge of the crown. Tape can be
placed against the fence to help see the pencil marks.
Measure from the base to this line and subtract 1⁄16". Cut
a block to this measurement, and label it to match the
profile of crown that you’re installing.
Cutting compound miters is tricky. Throughout this book,
crown molding is shown being mitered with the workpiece
held against a fence or fence extension. This hand-held
approach is quick and effective but takes some getting used
to. A practically foolproof option is to use an adjustable jig,
such as the compound miter jig shown here.
6
Butted to wall
Mitered joint
1
5
Coped joint
2
3
4
Plan the order of the installation to minimize the number of difficult joints on each piece, and use the longest pieces for the most
visible sections of wall. Notice that the left end of first piece is cope-cut rather than butted into the wall. Cope-cutting the first
end eliminates the need to cope-cut both ends of the final piece and places the cuts in the same direction. This simplifies your
installation, making the method to cut each piece similar.
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How to Use Backers to Install Crown Molding
Leg 2 2
Backer block
1
⁄8" gap
Leg 1
Leg 1
Screw backer block to wall cap
plate with 2½ or 3" deck screws
1 Leg 2
Installing crown molding is greatly simplified if you first attach Locate the wall studs with a stud finder, and mark the
triangular backers in the crotch area between the walls and locations on the wall with blue painter’s tape. Secure the
ceilings. You can run the backers continuously along all walls, backer block to the wall by driving 2½ or 3" deck screws at
or you can space them at regular intervals for use as nailers. To an angle through the block and into the top plate of the wall.
measure the required length for the triangle legs, set a piece Now, your crown molding can be attached to the backers
of the crown molding in the sprung position in a square in an wherever you’d like to nail it. Install crown according to the
orientation like the inset photo above. Rip triangular backer following instructions.
strips from 2× stock on your tablesaw, with the blade set at 45°.
How to Install Basic Crown Molding
2
1
Cut a piece of crown molding about 1-ft. long with square Place the first piece of molding upside down and sprung
ends. Temporarily install the piece in the corner of the last against the fence of the miter saw. Mark a reference line on
installation wall with two screws driven into the blocking. This the fence for placement of future moldings, and cut the first
piece serves as a template for the first cope cut on the first coped end with an inside miter cut to reveal the profile of
piece of molding. the piece.
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Measure, cut to length, and install the first piece of crown molding, leaving the end
near the temporary scrap loose for final fitting of the last piece. Nail the molding at
the top and bottom of each stud location.
4
Temporary scrap
3
Cope-cut the end of the first piece with
a coping saw. Carefully cut along the
profile, angling the saw as you cut to
back-bevel the cope. Test-fit the coped
cut against the temporary scrap from
step 1. Fine-tune the cut with files and
fine-grit sandpaper.
Position the actual stock so a cut end is flush against the wall
at one end and, at the other end, mark the outside corner on
5 the back edge of the molding. Miter-cut the piece at the mark,
Test pieces according to the angles you noted on the test pieces.
6
Cut two test pieces to check the fit of outside corners. Start
with each molding cut at 45°, adjusting the angles larger or
smaller until the joints are tight. Make sure the test moldings
are properly aligned and are flush with the ceiling and walls.
Make a note of your saw settings once the joint fits tightly. (continued)
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7
Temporary spacer removed
8
Measure and cut the third piece with an outside corner miter To fit the final piece, cope the end and cut it to length.
to match the angle of your test pieces. Cut the other end Remove the temporary scrap piece from step 3, and slide
squarely, butting it into the corner. Install the piece with nails the last molding into position. Nail the last piece at the
driven at stud locations. Install the subsequent pieces of stud locations when the joints fit well, and finish nailing the
crown molding, coping the front end and butting the other as first piece.
you work around the room.
10
9
Lightly sand the filled nail holes and joint gaps with
Fill all nail holes. Use spackling compound if painting; wait
fine sandpaper. Sand the nail hole flush with the
until the finish is applied, and fill with tinted putty for clear
surface of the moldings, and apply a final coat of paint
finishes. Use a putty knife to force spackling compound or
to the entire project.
tinted wood putty into loose joints, and caulk gaps 1⁄8" or
smaller between the molding and the wall or ceiling with
flexible, paintable, latex caulk.
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How to Install Crown at a Sagging Ceiling
Score the drywall slightly in the sagging portion of the ceiling.
Gauge block Set the crown along the lines made by the gauge block and
1 the top of the point where the drywall is scored. Mark the
edges of the sagging area in a visible spot on the walls.
2
Make light pencil marks on the wall to show where the bottom
of the crown will sit.
TIP: Make and use a gauge block for this (see page 233).
This is especially important on outside corners.
4
3
Use a small wood block to drive the sagging drywall up where Install the crown so the bottom edge is flush with the gauge
it meets the wall. Don’t get too aggressive here. line. The molding will conceal the damage to the drywall.
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Built-up Crown Molding
uilt-up crown molding is a multi-piece assembly
B created by joining several trim boards, usually
including at least one crown profile, on the wall and the
BUILT-UP OPTIONS
Create a mock-up of the built-up molding assembly
ceiling. Often referred to as cornice molding, these built- you’re planning to install. Fasten 12"-long pieces of
up combinations can be truly striking in appearance, each type together in the intended orientation. If you
especially at and around outside corners. By using are undecided among multiple combinations, make a
careful layout techniques and building simple mock- mock-up of each so you can compare them.
ups, this complex-looking process can become relatively
simple. In large part, this is because the material that
is installed both on the ceiling and on the wall can
function as a backer, giving the crown molding that’s
featured in the assembly a secure surface area for nailing.
Be creative and experiment with different combinations
of trim to come up with a unique design of your own.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Power miter saw 1½" finish (8d) or pneumatic Wood glue
Finish nailer (16-gauge) nails Utility knife
Measuring tape #2.5 pencil Eye protection
Built-up crown molding creates a bit of old-world charm in any setting. The three-piece interpretation seen here is made with two
pieces of baseboard and a piece of crown.
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How to Install a Built-up Crown
1 2
Remove any old crown molding in the cornice area. Use a Use a mock-up of the built-up molding as a marking gauge to
utility knife to cut through old paint and caulk between the establish a baseline for the bottom of the assembly on the
molding and the wall or ceiling. Then use a pry bar to work wall. Start in the corners and work your way around the room.
the crown molding loose in small sections. Be sure to brace This will allow you to see how the ceiling rises and falls so you
the end of the pry bar on the inside of the crown and pull know where to install the first piece.
downward. Do not pry upwards; this can damage the ceiling.
TIP
To measure a wall when working alone, first make a
mark on the wall or ceiling exactly 10" out from one
corner. Then, press the tab against the wall at the
3 other end, measure to the marked line, and add 10" to
the measurement.
Make a reference line for the top of the built-up assembly,
using the mock-up as a gauge. (continued)
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4 5
Baseboard
Profile down
Install the base (lowest) molding around the entire room first. Find the correct miter angles for installing the flat ceiling
The bottoms of the base pieces should be flush against the trim. Cut two scraps of stock at 45°, and test how well they
bottom line that was scribed using the mock-up as a gauge. fit together in the corner. Adjust the cuts as needed to form
Do not try to push the trim up against the ceiling; it must be a corner that has a neat miter with both sides flush against
flush with the base line. Any gaps at the top will be hidden by the wall.
subsequent trim pieces.
6
7
Install the second trim profile parts all around the perimeter of Install the final piece, which is usually crown molding that
the room. Typically, this will be flat moldings (with or without fits against the flat wall molding and the ceiling molding. It is
an edge profile) installed flat against the ceiling and mitered best to use coped joints at the inside corners (see page 200).
at the corners. Sand, fill the nail holes, and finish the built-up cornice as
desired (if you have not prefinished all the parts).
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CORNICE VARIATIONS
Use picture rail (page 224) to enhance a cornice molding. Install blocking to provide a nailing surface and added bulk
Standard height for picture rail is about 10 to 12" below to a built-up cornice. In this simple arrangement, a 2 × 2
the ceiling, but you can place it at any level. For a simple block, or nailing strip, is screwed to the wall studs. A facing
variation of the project shown, use square-edged stock for made from 1 × 2 finish lumber is nailed to the blocking
the band (since the bottom edge will mostly be hidden), and is trimmed along the ceiling with quarter-round. The
and add picture rail just below the band. Be sure to leave crown molding is nailed to the wall studs along the bottom
enough room for placing picture hooks. and to the nailer along the top.
Quarter round
Stop molding
Crown molding 1×2
2×2
Band
Picture rail Crown molding
Built-up cornice treatments can be as simple or complex as
you would like. This Arts & Crafts variation is made of flat
solid stock ripped down to specific dimensions. Two pieces of
1 × 2 stock are fastened together to form an L-shaped angle.
The angle is then screwed to the wall at the stud locations.
An additional piece of 1" wide stock is nailed in place so the
top edge is flush with the installed angle. This configuration
creates a stepped cornice with a simpler appearance than
the traditional sprung moldings. Notice that the L angle is
nailed together with a slight gap at the back edge. This is
done to compensate for irregularities in the corner joint.
This highly detailed Victorian-style built-up cornice is made
of several pieces of stock trim and solid stock ripped down
to different widths. The right-angle component of this
cornice may be screwed directly to the wall, to serve both a
decorative function as well as serve as a nailer for the other
trim elements. The screw holes are covered when the
crown molding is installed.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Drill with countersink-piloting bit
Power miter saw or hand miter
box and fine-tooth saw
Caulk gun
Putty knife
Polymer Crown Crown molding
Finish nails
150-grit sandpaper
olymer moldings come in a variety of ornate, single-piece styles Rag
P that offer easy installation and maintenance. The polystyrene
or polyurethane material is as easy to cut as softwood, but unlike
Mineral spirits
Polymer adhesive
wood, the material won’t shrink and it can be repaired with vinyl
spackling compound. 2" drywall screws
You can buy polymer molding preprimed for painting, or you can stain Vinyl spackling compound
it with a nonpenetrating heavy-body stain or gel. Most polymers come in Paintable latex caulk
12-foot lengths, and some have corner blocks that eliminate corner cuts. Eye protection
There are even flexible moldings for curved walls.
How to Install Polymer Crown Molding
1
2
Plan the layout of the molding pieces by measuring the Hold a section of molding against the wall and ceiling in the
walls of the room and making light pencil marks at the joint finished position. Make light pencil marks on the wall every
locations. For each piece that starts or ends at a corner, add 12" along the bottom edge of the molding. Remove the
12 to 24" to compensate for waste. If possible, avoid pieces molding, and tack a finish nail at each mark. The nails will
shorter than 36" because short pieces are more difficult to fit. hold the molding in place while the adhesive dries. If the wall
surface is plaster, drill pilot holes for the nails.
To make the miter cuts for the first
corner, position the molding faceup in
a miter box. Set the ceiling side of the 3
molding against the horizontal table
of the miter box, and set the wall side
against the vertical back fence. Make
the cut at 45°.
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4
5 6
Check the uncut ends of each Lightly sand the backs of the molding Set the molding in place with the
molding piece before installing it. that will contact the wall and ceiling, mitered end tight to the corner and
Make sure mating pieces will butt using 150-grit sandpaper. Slightly the bottom edge resting on the nails.
together squarely in a tight joint. Cut dampen a rag with mineral spirits, and Press along the molding edges to
all square ends at 90°, using a miter wipe away the dust. Run a small bead create a good bond. At each end of the
saw or hand miter box. of polymer adhesive (recommended or piece, drive 2" drywall screws through
supplied by the manufacturer) along countersunk pilot holes through the
both sanded edges. flats and into the ceiling and wall.
7
8
Cut, sand, and glue the next piece of molding. Apply a bead of Carefully remove the finish nails and fill the nail holes with
adhesive to the end where the installed molding will meet the vinyl spackling compound. Fill the screw holes in the molding
new piece. Install the new piece, and secure the ends with and any gaps in the joints with paintable latex caulk or filler,
screws, making sure the ends are joined properly. Install the and wipe away excess caulk with a damp cloth or a wet finger.
remaining molding pieces, and let the adhesive dry. Smooth the caulk over the holes so it’s flush with the surface.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Tape measure Straightedge
Drill Miter saw
Pencil Casing material
Nail set Baseboard molding and
corner blocks (optional)
Basic Casing Hammer or
pneumatic nailer 4d and 6d finish nails
Level Wood putty
Combination square Eye protection
tock wood casings provide an attractive border
S around window and door openings while covering
the gaps between the wall surface and the window jamb.
Install casings with a consistent reveal between the match the plane of the wall. For small differences
inside edges of the jambs and the edges of the casings. where a drywall surface is too high, you can
In order to fit casings properly, the jambs and wall sometimes use a hammer to compress the drywall
surfaces must be in the same plane. If one of them around the jambs to allow the casings to lie flush.
protrudes, the casing will not lie flush. To solve this Drywall screws rely on the strength of untorn face
problem, you may need to shave the edges of the paper to support the panel. If the paper around the
jambs down with a block plane. Or you may need screws becomes torn, drive additional screws nearby
to attach jamb extensions to the window or door to where the paper is still intact.
Simple case molding installed with
mitered corners is a very common
approach to trimming windows
and doors. While it lacks visual
interest, it is easy to install and
relatively inexpensive.
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How to Install Mitered Casing on Windows & Doors
On each jamb, mark a reveal line 3⁄16 to Make 45° miter cuts on the ends of
¼" from the inside edge. The casings the moldings. Measure and cut the
will be installed flush with these lines. other vertical molding piece, using the
same method.
1
3
2
Place a length of casing along one side
jamb, flush with the reveal line. At the
top and bottom of the molding, mark
the points where horizontal and vertical
reveal lines meet. (When working with
doors, mark the molding at the top only.)
Drill pilot holes spaced every 12" to Locknail the corner joints by drilling
prevent splitting, and attach the vertical pilot holes and driving 4d finish nails
casings with 4d finish nails driven through each corner, as shown. Drive
through the casings and into the jambs. all nail heads below the wood surface,
Drive 6d finish nails into the framing using a nail set, then fill the nail holes
members near the outside edge of with wood putty.
the casings.
6
4
5
Measure the distance between the side
casings and cut top and bottom casings
to fit, with ends mitered at 45°. If the
window or door unit is not perfectly
square, make test cuts on scrap pieces
to find the correct angle of the joints.
Drill pilot holes and attach with 4d and
6d finish nails.
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S
Window Stool & Apron
tool and apron trim brings a traditional look
S to a window and is most commonly used with
double-hung styles. The stool serves as an interior
sill; the apron (or the bottom casing) conceals the gap
between the stool and the finished wall.
In many cases, such as with 2 × 6 walls, jamb
extensions made from 1× finish-grade lumber need to
be installed to bring the window jambs flush with the
finished wall. Many window manufacturers also sell
jamb extensions for their windows.
The stool is usually made from 1× finish-grade lumber,
cut to fit the rough opening, with “horns” at each end
extending along the wall for the side casings to butt
against. The horns extend beyond the outer edge of the
casing by the same amount that the front edge of the stool
extends past the face of the casing, usually under 1 inch.
If the edge of the stool is rounded, beveled, or The window stool and apron give the window a finished
otherwise decoratively routed, you can create a more appearance while offering the practical advantage of a
finished appearance by returning the ends of the stool to window sill.
hide the end grain. A pair of miter cuts at the rough horn
will create the perfect cap piece for wrapping the grain
of the front edge of the stool around the horn. The same SAFETY TIP
can be done for an apron cut from a molded casing.
As with any trim project, tight joints are the secret
to a successful stool and apron trim job. Take your
time to ensure all the pieces fit tightly. Also, use a
pneumatic nailer; you don’t want to spend all that
time shimming the jambs perfectly only to knock
them out of position with one bad swing of a hammer.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Tape measure 1× finish lumber
Straightedge Casing
Circular saw or jigsaw Wood shims
Handsaw, plane, or rasp 4d, 6d, and 8d finish nails
Drill Utility knife
Hammer Eye protection Back-cut the ends of casing pieces where needed to
Pneumatic nailer (optional) help create tight joints, using a sharp utility knife.
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How to Install Stool & Apron Window Trim
1 2
Edge of window
Setback rough opening
Stool
Setback
Setback Waste
Horn
Stool
Temporary support block
Cut the board for the stool to length, with several extra inches at each end for the Cut out the notches to create the stool
horns. Temporarily position the stool in the window opening, pressed against horns. For straight lines, you can use a
the wall and centered on the window. Use a combination square to measure large handsaw, but for the scribed line
the setback distance from the window frame to the near edge of the stool. Mark use a more maneuverable saw like the
the setback onto the stool at each edge of the window rough opening (if the jigsaw or a coping saw. Test-fit the stool,
measurements are different, use the greater setback distance for each end). Then making any minor adjustments with a
use a compass and pencil to scribe the profile of the wall onto the stool to complete plane or a rasp so it fits tightly to the
the cutting line for the horn (inset photo). window frame and flush against the walls.
Horn
Waste
Cut lines
45°
45°
3 Return
Return
To create a return at the horn of the stool, miter-cut the return pieces at 45° angles. Mark the stool at its overall length and cut it
to size with 45° miter cuts. Glue the return to the mitered end of the horn so the grain wraps around the corner.
NOTE: Use this same technique to create the returns on the apron, but make the cuts with the apron held on
edge, rather than flat. (continued)
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Clamp the jig on the reference line, and rip the extension to
TIP width. Using a circular saw, keep the baseplate tight against
the jig and move the saw smoothly through the board.
Reposition the clamp when you near the end of the cut. Cut
both side extensions to length and width, using the same
technique as for the head extension (see TIP at left).
Straightedge guide
4
Width at top left corner
Workpiece
1× lumber
Width at top right corner
Where jamb extensions are needed, cut the head extension
to its finished length—the distance between the window
side jambs plus the thickness of both side extensions
(typically 1× stock). For the width, measure the distance
between the window jamb and the finished wall at each
Apply wood glue to the back edge of the frame, and position it
corner; then mark the measurements on the ends of the
against the front edge of the window jambs. Use wood shims
extension. Use a straightedge to draw a reference line
to adjust the frame, making sure the pieces are flush with
connecting the points. Build a simple cutting jig, as shown.
the window jambs. Fasten the frame at each shim location,
using 8d finish nails driven through pilot holes. Loosely pack
insulation between the studs and the jambs, or use minimal-
expanding spray foam.
Stool
6
Side extensions
Head extension
5
Build a box frame with the extensions and stool, using 6d
finish nails and a pneumatic nailer. Measure to make sure
the box has the same dimensions as the window jambs.
Drive nails through the top of the head extension into the
side extensions and through the bottom of the stool into
side extensions.
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Reveal mark
8 Head casing
Reveal
7 Stool
On the edge of each jamb or jamb extension, mark a 3⁄16 to ¼"
Cut the side casings to rough length, leaving the ends
reveal. Place a length of casing along the head extension,
slightly long for final trimming. Miter one end at 45°.
aligned with the reveal marks at the corners. Mark where the
With the pointed end on the stool, mark the height of
reveal marks intersect, then make 45° miter cuts at each
the side casing at the top edge of the head casing.
point. Reposition the casing at the head extension and attach,
using 4d finish nails at the extensions and 6d finish nails at
the framing members.
Test-fit the casings, making any final
adjustments with a plane or rasp.
9 Fasten the casing with 4d finish nails at
the extensions and 6d finish nails at the
framing members.
10
11
To get a tight fit for side casings, align Cut the apron to length, leaving a few
one side of a T-bevel with the reveal, inches at each end for creating the
mark the side extension, and position returns (step 3). Position the apron tight
the other side flush against the horn. against the bottom edge of the stool,
Transfer the angle from the T-bevel and then attach it, using 6d finish nails
to the end of the casing, and cut the driven every 12".
casing to length.
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Arts & Crafts Casing
raditional Arts & Crafts casings
T are made of simple, flat materials
with little to no decorative molding
trimmed out of the stock. Add
nonmitered corners to the mix,
and this casing becomes as plain as
possible. The back band installed
on the perimeter of this project is
optional, but it adds depth to the
window treatment while maintaining
a simple style.
Traditionally, the wood used for
this style of trim is quartersawn
oak. The term “quartersawn”
refers to the method of milling the
material. Quartersawn oak is easily
distinguishable from plain-sawn
oak by its tight grain pattern laced
with rays of lighter color also known
as rifts. Quartersawn oak is more
expensive than plain oak and may
only be available at lumberyards or
hardwood supply stores, depending
upon your area. Either plain-sawn or
quartersawn oak will fit the style of
this casing.
To begin the installation of this
trim style, refer to pages 246 and
249 to read the step-by-step process
for installing jamb extensions, if
necessary, and the stool portion of The Arts & Crafts style is similar to the overall look and feel of Mission furniture,
this project. as can be seen in this relatively simple oak window casing.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Tape measure Handsaw Compass Wood shims
Straightedge Plane or rasp Nail set 4d, 6d, and 8d finish nails
Power miter saw Drill hammer 1 × 4 finish lumber Finishing putty
Circular saw Pneumatic nailer Back band trim Eye protection
or jigsaw Combination square
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How to Install Arts & Crafts Casing
Follow the step-by-step process on pages 247 to 249 to install
the stool and jamb extensions. Set a combination square to
3
⁄16 or ¼" and mark a reveal line on the top and side jambs.
1
2
To find the length of the head casing and apron, measure the
distance between the reveal lines on the side jambs, and add
twice the width of the side casings. Cut the head casing and
the apron to length. Install the head casing flush with the
top reveal line. Use a scrap piece of trim to line up the head
casing horizontally.
3 Back band
4
Measure and cut the side casings to length. Install them flush Measure, cut, and install the back band around the perimeter
with the reveal lines. Make sure the joints at the top and bottom of the window casings, mitering the joints at the corners.
are tight. Measure the distance to the end of the stool from the Continue the back band around the edge of the apron,
outer edge of the side casing. Install the apron tight to the bottom mitering the corners. Nail the back band in place with 4d
of the stool at the same dimension from the end of the stool. finish nails.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Basement Window Trim Pencil
Tape measure
Tablesaw
asement windows bring much-needed sunlight into dark areas,
B but even in finished basements they often get ignored on the trim
front. This is partly because most basement foundation walls are at least
Drill with bits
2-ft. level
Framing square
8 inches thick, often a lot thicker. Add a furred-out wall and the window
starts to look more like a tunnel with a pane of glass at the end. But with Utility knife
some well-designed and well-executed trim carpentry, you can turn the Straightedge
depth disadvantage into a positive. Miter saw
A basement window opening may be finished with drywall, but
Router and router table
the easiest way to trim one is by making extrawide custom jambs that
extend from the inside face of the window frame to the interior wall Clamps
surface. Because of the extra width, plywood stock is a good choice for Spray-foam insulation
the custom jambs. The project shown here is created with veneer-core Finish-grade ¾" oak plywood
plywood with oak veneer surface. The jamb members are fastened Composite or cedar wood shims
together into a nice square frame using rabbet joints at the corner. The
frame is scribed and installed as a single unit and then trimmed out with 1¼, 2" finish nails
oak casing. The casing is applied flush with the inside edges of the frame 15⁄8" drywall screws
opening. If you prefer to have a reveal edge around the interior edge of Carpenter’s glue
the casing, you will need to add a solid hardwood strip to the edge of the Eye protection
frame so the plies of the plywood are not visible.
Because they
are set into
thick foundation
walls, basement
windows present
a bit of a trimming
challenge. But
the thickness of
the foundation
wall also lets you
create a handy
ledge that’s
deep enough
to hold potted
plants or even
sunning cats.
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How to Trim a Basement Window
1 2
Check to make sure the window frame and surrounding area Set your tablesaw to make a rip cut to the width arrived at in
are dry and free of rot, mold, or damage. At all four corners step 1. If you don’t have a tablesaw, set up a circular saw and
of the basement window, measure from the inside edge of straightedge cutting guide to cut strips to this length. With a
the window frame to the wall surface. Add 1" to the longest of fine-tooth panel-cutting blade, rip enough plywood strips to
these measurements. make the four jamb frame components.
Cross-cut the plywood strips to correct lengths. In our
case, we designed the jamb frame to be the exact
same outside dimensions as the window frame, since
there was some space between the jamb frame and
the rough opening.
3 3
⁄8 × ¾" rabbet
Miter gauge
4
Cut 3⁄8-deep × ¾"-wide rabbets at each end of the head jamb
and the sill jamb. A router table is the best tool for this job,
but you may use a tablesaw or handsaws and chisels. Inspect
the jambs first, and cut the rabbets in whichever face is in
better condition. To ensure uniformity, we ganged the two
jambs together (they’re the same length). It’s also a good idea
to include backer boards to prevent tearout.
(continued)
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Glue and clamp the frame parts together, making sure to clamp
near each end from both directions. Set a carpenter’s square
inside the frame, and check it to make sure it’s square.
5
6
Before the glue sets, carefully drill three perpendicular pilot
holes, countersunk, through the rabbeted workpieces and into
the side jambs at each corner. Space the pilot holes evenly,
keeping the end ones at least ¾" in from the end. Drive a 15⁄8"
drywall screw into each pilot hole, taking care not to overdrive.
Double check each corner for square as you work, adjusting
the clamps if needed.
7
8
Let the glue dry for at least one hour (overnight is better). Then Taking care not to disturb the frame’s position (rest a heavy
remove the clamps and set the frame in the window opening. tool on the sill to hold it in place if you wish), press a steel rule
Adjust the frame so it is centered and level in the opening and against the wall surface and mark trimming points at the point
the exterior-side edges fit flush against the window frame. where the rule meets the jambs at each side of all four frame
corners, using a sharp pencil.
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10
Remove the frame and clamp it on a flat work surface.
Use a straightedge to connect the scribe marks at the
ends of each jamb frame side. Set the cutting depth
of your circular saw to just a small fraction over ¾".
Clamp a straightedge guide to the frame so the saw
blade will follow the cutting line, and trim each frame
side in succession. (The advantage to using a circular
saw here is that any tearout from the blade will be on
the nonvisible faces of the frame).
9
Replace the frame in the window
opening in the same orientation as when
Scribe line you scribed it, and install shims until it is
level and centered in the opening. Drive
a few finish nails (hand or pneumatic)
through the side jambs into the rough
frame. Also drive a few nails through the
sill jamb. Most trim carpenters do not
drive nails into the head jamb.
Insulate between the jamb frame and the rough frame with
spray-in polyurethane foam. Look for minimal-expanding foam
labeled “window and door,” and don’t spray in too much. Let
the foam dry for a half hour or so, and then trim off the excess
with a utility knife.
TIP: Protect the wood surfaces near the edges with wide
strips of masking tape.
12
Remove the masking tape, and clean up the mess from the
11 foam (there is always some). Install case molding. We used
picture-frame techniques to install fairly simple oak casing.
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Wall Frame Moldings
dding wall frame moldings is a traditional
A decorative technique used to highlight special
features of a room, divide large walls into smaller
sections, or simply add interest to plain surfaces. You
can paint the molding the same color as the walls
or use a contrasting color. For even greater contrast,
paint or wallcover the areas within the frames.
Decorative wood moldings with curved contours
work best for wall frames. Chair rail, picture rail, base
shoe, cove, quarter-round, and other suitable molding
types in several wood species are readily available at
home centers and lumberyards.
To determine the sizes and locations of the frames,
cut strips of paper to the width of the molding and
tape them to the wall. You may want the frames to
match the dimensions of architectural details in the
room, such as windows or a fireplace.
Install the molding with small finish nails driven
at each wall stud location and at the ends of the
pieces. Use nails long enough to penetrate the studs
by ¾ inch. If there aren’t studs where you need them,
secure the molding with dabs of construction adhesive.
Wall frame moldings use ordinary trim pieces to create frames
with mitered corners that give the illusion of frame-and-
panel construction.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Level Tape
Framing square Wood finishing materials
Miter box and backsaw Construction adhesive
Cut the molding pieces to length, using a miter box and a Drill and bits Paintable latex caulk
backsaw (or power miter saw) to cut the ends at 45°. The or wood putty
top and bottom pieces should be the same length, as should Nail set
the side pieces. Test-fit the pieces, and make any necessary Paper strips Eye protection
adjustments. j
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How to Install Wall Frame Moldings
1 2
Cut paper strips to the width of the molding, and tape them Paint or stain the moldings as desired. Position the top
to the wall. Use a framing square and level to make sure the molding piece on the placement marks, and tack it in place
frame is level and the strips are square to one another. Mark with two finish nails. If necessary, drill pilot holes for the nails
the outer corners of the frame with light pencil lines. to prevent splitting.
3
4
Tack the side moldings in place, using the framing square Drive the nails slightly below the surface, using a nail set.
to make sure they are square to the top piece. Tack up the Fill the nail holes (and corner joints, if necessary) with wood
bottom piece. Adjust the frame, if necessary, so that all of the putty. Touch up the patched areas with paint or stain.
joints fit tightly, and then completely fasten the pieces.
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p
p
p
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Laser level Pneumatic finish nail gun
Pencil with compressor
Tape measure Caulking gun
Wainscot Frames Circular saw or tablesaw ¾"-thick MDF sheet stock
Straightedge guide 11⁄16" cove molding
Power miter saw ½ × ¾" base shoe
rame-and-panel wainscot adds depth, character,
F
9
Drill with bits ⁄16 × 11⁄8" cap molding
and a sense of old-world charm to any room. (10 ft. per panel)
Classic wainscot was built with grooved or rabbeted Carpenter’s square
Panel adhesive
rails and stiles that captured a floating hardwood Pocket hole jig with screws
panel. In the project shown here, the classic appearance Paint and primer
Pry bar
is mimicked, but the difficulties of machining precise Eye protection
Hammer
parts and commanding craftsman-level joinery are
eliminated. Paint-grade materials (mostly MDF) are
used in the project shown; however, you can also build Once the main frames are assembled, they can be
the project with solid hardwoods and finish-grade attached to the wall at stud locations. If you prefer to
plywood if you prefer a clear-coat finish. site-build the wainscot piece by piece, you may need
Installing wainscot frames that look like frame- to replace the wallcovering material with plywood to
and-panel wainscot can be done piece by piece, but create nailing surfaces for the individual pieces.
it is often easier to assemble the main frame parts in We primed all of the wainscot parts prior to
your shop. Not only does working in the shop allow installing them and then painted the wainscot
you to join the frame parts together (we use pocket (including the wall sections within the wainscot panel
screws driven in the backs of the rails and stiles); it frames) a contrasting color from the wall above the
generally results in a more professional look. wainscot cap.
Panel Profiled
profile ¾ × 2" cap
¾" cove
32"
¾ × 3½"
20"
¾ × 7¼"
Base
shoe Overall height: 44"
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How to Install Wainscot Frames
1 2
Use a laser level and a pencil to mark the height of the Plot out the wainscot layout on paper, and then test the layout
wainscot installation directly onto all walls in the project area. by drawing lines on the wall to make sure you’re happy with the
Also mark the height of the top rail (¾" below the overall design. Try to use a panel width that can be divided evenly into
height) since the cap rail will be installed after the rest of the all project wall lengths. In some cases, you may need to make
wainscot is installed. Mark stud locations, using an electronic the panel widths slightly different from wall to wall, but make
stud finder. sure to maintain a consistent width within each wall’s run.
3 4
Based on your plan, rip a sheet of MDF
into strips to make all of the wainscot
parts except the trim moldings. In our
case, that included the cap rail (2" wide),
the top rail and stiles (3½" wide), and
the base rail (7¼" wide).
NOTE: These are standard lumber
dimensions. You can use 1 × 4 and Cut top rails, base rails, and stiles (but not cap rails) to length, and dry-assemble
1 × 4 dimensional lumber for the rails the parts into ladder frames based on your layout. Plan the layouts so wall sections
and stiles. Use 1 × 2 or rip stock for longer than 8 ft. are cut with scarf joints in the rails meeting at a stud location.
the cap rail. Dry-assemble the pieces on a flat work surface.
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5 6
Assemble the frames using glue and pocket screws or biscuits. Mount a ¾" roundover bit in your router or router table,
Clamp the parts together first, and check with a carpenter’s and shape a bullnose profile on the front edge of your cap
square to make sure the stiles are perpendicular to both rails. rail stock.
7
8
Position the frames against the wall, and
shim underneath the bottom rails as
necessary to bring them flush with the
top rail marks on the wall (¾" below the
overall height lines). Attach the wainscot
sections by driving 3" drywall screws,
countersunk, through the top rail and
Prime all parts on both sides, including the milled moldings and uncut cap the bottom rail at each stud location.
rail stock. If you are using scarf joints, be sure to
install the open half first.
(continued)
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9 10
w
Cut the cap rail to length, and attach it to the top rail with Install cove molding in the crotch where the cap rail and top
panel adhesive and finish nails. Drive a 3" drywall screw rails meet, using glue and a brad nailer. Then nail base shoe
through the cap rail and into the wall toenails style at each to conceal any gaps between the bottoms, rails, and the floor.
location. Be sure to carefully drill pilot holes and countersink Miter all corners.
holes for each screw. Miter-cut the cap rails at the corners.
11
12
Cut mitered frames to fit around the perimeter of each panel Mask the wall above the cap rail, and then prime and paint
frame created by the rails and stiles. Use cap molding. the wainscot frames. Generally, a lighter, contrasting color
than the wall color above is most effective visually.
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Simple Base Molding
Base moldings and other moldings with profiled edges are perfect projects
for making in your home workshop. You can produce them very efficiently TOOLS & MATERIALS
by employing the following method. Start by choosing an edge-profiling bit Router table with midsize router
that you like for the top profile, such as the ogee bit and the roundover bit
shown below. Then, select wood stock that is a little more than twice the Edge-profiling bit
width of your planned molding height ( for example, to make 5½-inch-tall Tablesaw
molding, select 12-inch-wide stock). Then rout the edge profiles into both Prepared stock
edges of the stock on a router table. Now all you need to do is rip the stock Eye protection
down the middle, and you’ll have two identical strips of molding.
Custom base molding is relatively easy to make. It can be simple and made from common lumber like the base molding seen
here (you’ll save a lot of money making it yourself), or it can have a unique profile and be made from any wood you choose,
even an exotic wood.
Router Bit Options TIP
Classic Roman ogee bit
If you own a jointer, you may choose to joint both edges
of the workpiece smooth before routing the subsequent
profiles. For best results, alternate between the router,
¾" roundover bit tablesaw, and jointer for smoother, cleaner edges.
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How to Make Simple Base Moldings
1
2
Prepare ¾" thick material to the maximum board width Use scrap material to fine-tune the height of the router bit.
possible with two straightedges. Set the fence on the router Adjust the height until you achieve the desired profile. Check
table so that it is flush with the front edge of the bearing the workpiece for troublesome tearout areas, and determine
guide. Use a straightedge to help align the fence. If your stock optimum test-feed rates when running scrap material.
is rough, set the fence slightly in front of the bearing guide so
the fence guides the cut.
4
3
Rout the edges of your prepared material one side at a time, Set the tablesaw fence to rip the profiled molding stock in half,
maintaining an even feed rate and applying adequate and then rip-cut the stock to release two sections of molding
downward and lateral pressure to the workpiece. Profile that have a profile on one edge and are square-cut on the
both edges. other edge. Sand the square edge of the molding to remove
rough saw blade marks.
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Metric Conversions
ENGLISH TO METRIC
TO CONVERT: TO: MULTIPLY BY: TO CONVERT: TO: MULTIPLY BY:
Inches Millimeters 25.4 Millimeters Inches 0.039
Inches Centimeters 2.54 Centimeters Inches 0.394
Feet Meters 0.305 Meters Feet 3.28
Yards Meters 0.914 Meters Yards 1.09
Square inches Square centimeters 6.45 Square centimeters Square inches 0.155
Square feet Square meters 0.093 Square meters Square feet 10.8
Square yards Square meters 0.836 Square meters Square yards 1.2
Ounces Milliliters 30.0 Milliliters Ounces .033
Pints (U.S.) Liters 0.473 (lmp. 0.568) Liters Pints (U.S.) 2.114 (lmp. 1.76)
Quarts (U.S.) Liters 0.946 (lmp. 1.136) Liters Quarts (U.S.) 1.057 (lmp. 0.88)
Gallons (U.S.) Liters 3.785 (lmp. 4.546) Liters Gallons (U.S.) 0.264 (lmp. 0.22)
Ounces Grams 28.4 Grams Ounces 0.035
Pounds Kilograms 0.454 Kilograms Pounds 2.2
CONVERTING TEMPERATURES LUMBER DIMENSIONS
Convert degrees Fahrenheit (F) to degrees Celsius (C) by following this NOMINAL - U.S. ACTUAL - U.S. (IN INCHES) METRIC
simple formula: Subtract 32 from the Fahrenheit temperature reading. Then 1×2 ¾ × 1½ 19 × 38 mm
multiply that number by 5⁄9. For example, 77°F - 32 = 45. 45 × 5⁄9 = 25°C. 1×3 ¾ × 2½ 19 × 64 mm
1×4 ¾ × 3½ 19 × 89 mm
To convert degrees Celsius to degrees Fahrenheit, multiply the Celsius
1×5 ¾ × 4½ 19 × 114 mm
temperature reading by 9⁄5. Then, add 32. For example,
1×6 ¾ × 5½ 19 × 140 mm
25°C × 9⁄5 = 45. 45 + 32 = 77°F.
1×7 ¾ × 6¼ 19 × 159 mm
1×8 ¾ × 7¼ 19 × 184 mm
Fahrenheit Celsius
1 × 10 ¾ × 9¼ 19 × 235 mm
55° 15° 1 × 12 ¾ × 11¼ 19 × 286 mm
50° 10° 1¼ × 4 1 × 3½ 25 × 89 mm
45°
40° 5° 1¼ × 6 1 × 5½ 25 × 140 mm
35°
Freezing 0° 1¼ × 8 1 × 7¼ 25 × 184 mm
30°
25°
-5°
1¼ × 10 1 × 9¼ 25 × 235 mm
20°
1¼ × 12 1 × 11¼ 25 × 286 mm
15° -10°
10° 1½ × 4 1¼ × 3½ 32 × 89 mm
5° -15°
1½ × 6 1¼ × 5½ 32 × 140 mm
0°
1½ × 8 1¼ × 7¼ 32 × 184 mm
1½ × 10 1¼ × 9¼ 32 × 235 mm
1½ × 12 1¼ × 11¼ 32 × 286 mm
2×4 1½ × 3½ 38 × 89 mm
METRIC PLYWOOD PANELS
2×6 1½× 5½ 38 × 140 mm
Metric plywood panels are commonly available in two sizes:
2×8 1½ × 7¼ 38 × 184 mm
1,200 mm × 2,400 mm and 1,220 mm × 2,400 mm, which is roughly
2 × 10 1½ × 9¼ 38 × 235 mm
equivalent to a 4 × 8-ft. sheet. Standard and Select sheathing panels
2 × 12 1½ × 11¼ 38 × 286 mm
come in standard thicknesses, while Sanded grade panels are available in
3×6 2½ × 5½ 64 × 140 mm
special thicknesses.
4×4 3½ × 3½ 89 × 89 mm
STANDARD SHEATHING GRADE SANDED GRADE
4×6 3½ × 5½ 89 × 140 mm
7.5 mm (5⁄16 in.) 6 mm (4⁄17 in.)
9.5 mm (3⁄8 in.) 8 mm (5⁄16 in.)
12.5 mm (½ in.) 11 mm (7⁄16 in.)
LIQUID MEASUREMENT EQUIVALENTS
15.5 mm (5⁄8 in.) 14 mm (9⁄16 in.)
1 Pint = 16 Fluid Ounces = 2 Cups
18.5 mm (¾ in.) 17 mm (2⁄3 in.)
1 Quart = 32 Fluid Ounces = 2 Pints
20.5 mm (13⁄16 in.) 19 mm (¾ in.)
1 Gallon = 128 Fluid Ounces = 4 Quarts
22.5 mm (7⁄8 in.) 21 mm (13⁄16 in.)
25.5 mm (1 in.) 24 mm (15⁄16 in.) (continued)
METRIC CONVERSIONS 265
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Metric Conversions (continued)
COUNTERBORE, SHANK & PILOT HOLE DIAMETERS
SCREW COUNTERBORE DIAMETER FOR CLEARANCE HOLE FOR PILOT HOLE DIAMETER
SIZE SCREW HEAD (IN INCHES) SCREW SHANK (IN INCHES) HARD WOOD (IN INCHES) SOFT WOOD (IN INCHES)
#1 .146 ( ⁄64)
9 5
⁄64 3
⁄64 1
⁄32
#2 ¼ 3
⁄32 3
⁄64 1
⁄32
#3 ¼ 7
⁄64 1
⁄16 3
⁄64
#4 ¼ 1
⁄8 1
⁄16 3
⁄64
#5 ¼ 1
⁄8 5
⁄64 1
⁄16
#6 5
⁄16 9
⁄64 3
⁄32 5
⁄64
#7 5
⁄16 5
⁄32 3
⁄32 5
⁄64
#8 3
⁄8 11
⁄64 1
⁄8 3
⁄32
#9 3
⁄8 11
⁄64 1
⁄8 3
⁄32
#10 3
⁄8 3
⁄16 1
⁄8 7
⁄64
#11 ½ 3
⁄16 5
⁄32 9
⁄64
#12 ½ 7
⁄32 9
⁄64 1
⁄8
NAILS
Nail lengths are identified by numbers from 4 to 60 followed by the letter “d,” which stands for “penny.” For general framing and repair work, use common or
box nails. Common nails are best suited to framing work where strength is important. Box nails are smaller in diameter than common nails, which makes them
easier to drive and less likely to split wood. Use box nails for light work and thin materials. Most common and box nails have a cement or vinyl coating that
improves their holding power.
LBS. MM IN.
20d 102 mm 4"
16d 89 mm 3½"
10d 76 mm 3"
8d 64 mm 2½"
6d 51 mm 2"
5d 44 mm 1¾"
4d 38 mm 1½"
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Resources
Black & Decker Corp. Moulding & Millwork Producers Association The Steel Network, Inc.
Power tools and accessories (MMPA) Curved Steel Track, page 81
800-544-6986 General information on wood trim 888-474-4876
www.blackanddecker.com 800-550-7889 www.steelnetwork.com
www.wmmpa.com
Red Wing Shoes Co.
Work boots and shoes Fypon, Ltd.
800-733-9464 Non-wood trim and millwork
www.redwingshoes.com 800-446-9373
www.fypon.com
Photo Credits
p. 22 Shutterstock
p. 37 iStock Photo
p. 55 Shutterstock
p. 81 (lower) iStock Photo
p. 90 Fypon
p. 108 iStock Photo
p. 190, 191 Shutterstock
RESOURCES/PHOTO CREDITS 267
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Index
abrasives, 178. see also sanding bed molding, 174 taping and draping, 145
abuse-resistant drywall, 43 belt sander, 167 texturing materials for, 51
acoustical matting, 110–111 bevel returns, 202–203 cementboard
acoustical sealant (caulk), 46, 47 biscuit joiner, 167 about, 44
acoustical textures, 51, 136 block planes, 164–165 fasteners for, 46
acoustical tile, 106 blocking, 63, 241 finishing, 85
adhesives, 46, 47, 72, 176 bowed studs, straightening, 64 hanging, 84–85
aggregated ceiling textures, box nails, 177 using, 45
51, 136 boxing, 138 center-to-center spacing, 60
air compressors, 57 brad nails/nailer, 168, 177 chair rails, 161, 170, 226–231
airflow, 104, 106 branch pipes, sizing for, 23 chalk lines, 163
alkyd paint, 138 bubbled tape, 131 chalk method, 69
anatomy of house, 10–13 building code, 108 chamfer, 170
angled cuts, 67 built-up base molding, 220–223 channels, installing resilient
angled finish nailer, 168 built-up chair rails, 228–231 steel, 107
architectural details, 90–91 built-up crown molding, 238–241 chases, 36–37
archways, 89, 92–93, 118 bullnose corner bead, 49, 119 chisels, 164–165
Arts & Crafts trim style, 152–153, butt joints, 60 circular saw, 166
241, 250–251 cleaner tool, 147
astragal molding, 174 case molding, 171 cleaning
casing after painting, 147
back blockers, 83 Arts & Crafts style, 250–251 drywall finishing tools and, 57
backers, 234 basic, 244 clear-coat finishing, 212–215
balance, 161 installing on windows and clutch, 76
balloon framing, 11 doors, 245 combination square, 163
base molding, 172, 263–264 style and, 161 compass, cutting drywall with, 71
base shoe, 161, 175, 203 casing nails, 177 concave seams, 131
base trim spacers, 221 cathedral ceilings, 81 construction adhesive, 47
baseboard, 161, 185, 218–219 caulks, 47, 176 construction tools, 164–165
basement ceilings contact cement, 47
attaching furring strips in, cathedral, 81 coordinate method, 69
102–103 decorative tiers on, 91 cope joints, 186–187, 194
insulating interior wall of, flat, 75 coped cuts, 200–201
100–101 floating joints on, 77 coping saw, 164–165, 186
isolating wall in, 103 installing crown on cordless drill, 166
window trim in, 252–255 sagging, 237 cordless nailers, 169
basic casing, 244–245 installing drywall on, 75–77 corner bead, 48, 49,
bead, 170 painting, 144, 146 116–117, 125
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corner caps, 119 drying-type joint compound, electrical box openings, 69, 130
corner crimper, 56 50–51 end nippers, 164–165
corner molding, 175 drywall equipment, about, 41
corners adhesives for, 46, 47 see also tools
installing drywall on, 79, 80 built-up details with, 90–91 estimating materials, 182
mitered joints for, 187, caulks for, 46, 47
196–198 for ceilings, 45 fasteners
mitering out-of-square, 197 decorative tiers with, 91 for drywall, 46
out-of-plumb corner fasteners for, 46–47, 73 maximum spacing, 73
cuts, 199 fastening, 72–73 nails, 177, 189, 266
rounding, 128–129 finishing materials for, 48–51 size of, 73
cornice variations, 241 finishing steps for, 113 for trim, 169, 177
see also crown molding fixing problems with, 130–131 fiber-cement board, 44, 84
cove molding, 173 garage, 98–99 files, 164–165, 201
cracked seams, 131 hanging, 74–83 filler coat, 126–127
cripple studs, 11 hanging on archways, 89 final coat, 127
crown molding, 161, 174, installation overview, 59 finish nails/nailer, 168, 177
232–243 installing on curves, 88 finish sanders, 167
curved walls, 86–89 installing suspended ceiling finished surfaces, drywall
cut bucket, 210 for, 65 abutting, 81
cutting and fitting joints, layout plan for, 60–61 fireproof taping compound,
194–205 materials & equipment for, 41 50–51
cutting diagrams, 183 measuring and cutting, 66–71 fire-rated tape, 50
cutting drywall multiple layers of, 108–109 fire-resistant drywall, 43
angled cuts, 67 panel types, 42–43 firetaping, 114
with compass, 71 preparing for installation, 62–65 fixture box, round, 70
for electrical box opening, 69 priming and painting, 138–146 flashing, bending, 77
large openings, 68 recommended levels of finish flat-tape, how to, 128
notches, 68 for, 114–115 flexible bead, 118, 129
rough cuts, 67 sanding, 132–135 flexible drywall, 43, 45, 88
for round fixture box, 70 skim coats on, 136–137 floating ceiling joints, 77
round holes, 70 taping seams, 120–129 flute, 170
with spiral saw, 71 texture on, 136 folding doors, 31
straight cuts, 66 tools and equipment for, 52–57 foundation walls
using specialized, 45 attaching furring strips to,
deadline, planning a, 183 drywall banjo, 56 102–103
deadmen, 76 drywall benches, 55 framing basement, 34–37
deck screws, 177 drywall clips, 54, 77 framing
decorative drywall products, 43 drywall guns, 55 about, 9
decorative tiers, 91 drywall hammer, 54 basement foundation walls,
Dens-Shield, 44, 45, 84 drywall lifter, 54 34–37
dentil, 170 drywall screws, 46, 177 chases, 36–37
domes, preformed, 94–97 drywall stilts, 54 curved walls, 87
doors drywall tape reel, 56 furnace ducts, 37
casing for, 244–245 ductwork, soundproofing and, 106 maximum spacing, 61
installing interior, 28–33 dust, minimizing, 133 platform, 10–11
openings for, 12 dust-free sanding systems, soffits, 36–37
sliding and folding, 31 132, 135 types of, 10–11
INDEX 269
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for windows and doors, 12–13 kneewalls, building, 18–21 moisture-resistant drywall, 43, 45
see also walls knives molding. see trim/molding
framing square, 163 putty, 164–165 mold-resistant drywall, 43
frieze, 170 utility, 164–165 mortar hawk, 56
furnace ducts, 37 knock down texture, 51
furring strips, 63, 102–103 nail guns, 168
laminating adhesive, 47 nails
gables, 81 large openings in drywall, 68 about, 177
garage drywall, 98–99 latex paint, 138 removing, 189
gauge blocks, 233 layout plan, 60–61, 186 sizing of, 266
glues and adhesives. layout tools, 162–163 see also fasteners
see adhesives L-bead, 49, 119 Neoclassical trim style, 154–155
grain filler, 179 level, establishing, 184–185 non-loadbearing walls. see
greenboard panels, 45 levels, 163 partition walls (non-loadbearing)
gypsum, 42 liquid measurement notches, 68
equivalents, 265
hammer, 164–165 load-bearing walls off-angle corner bead, 49
handsanding, 132 about, 11 ogee, 170
handsaw, 164–165 anatomy of, 14 oil-based polyurethane, 212
headers, 11, 12 framing prehung door in, 30 one-piece molding, 218–219
heat registers, 223 openings in, 12 openings, in load-bearing walls,
home theaters, 110–111 loose tape, 131 12–13
house, anatomy of, 10–13 lumber dimensions, 265 orange peel, 51
out-of-plumb corner cuts, 199
inner-cove bead, 49 mass loaded vinyl (MLV), out-of-square corners, 197
inside corner knife, 124 110–111
insulation materials paint
on interior basement wall, about, 41 additives for, 210
100–101 estimating, 48, 61, 182 cleaning, 147
soundproofing and, 105 finishing, 48–51 paint rollers, 141–142,
interior doors, 28–33 texturing, 51 144–146, 147
maximum fastener spacing, 73 paint sheens, 138, 139
jamb extensions, 32, 248 maximum framing spacing, 61 paintbrushes, 140, 143,
jambs, 185 maximum hole & notch chart, 23 147, 210
J-bead, 49 measurement conversions, painter’s tape, 144–145
jigsaw, 166–167 265–266 painting drywall, 138–146
job site preparation, 180 mesh tape, 125 painting trim, 206–207, 210–211
joint compound metal corner bead, 49, 116 panel adhesive, 46, 47, 176
about, 46, 48, 50–51 metal studs, 82 panel carrier, 54
applying, 122–129 metric conversions, 265–266 panel lift, 55, 59, 74
preparing, 121 miter saw, 167, 194–195 paper-faced corner bead, 49
taping seams and, 120 mitered joints, 187, 196–198 partition walls (non-loadbearing)
joint tape, 48, 50 mitered returns, 202–203 about, 11
jointers, 263 modern trim style, 156–157 anatomy of, 14
joists, 11 moisture, 34, 41 anchoring, 14
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framing prehung door in, 31 reciprocating saw, 166–167 staggered-stud partition
how to build, 15–17 resilient channels, 107, 110 walls, 107
removing, 38–39 rosette, 170 standard drywall, 43
staggered-stud, 107 rough carpentry, 9 stapler, 168
photographing, 115, 137 rough cuts, 67 steel studs, 17
picture rails, 161, 175, 224–225 rough openings, for interior doors, stool molding, 175
pin nailer, 168 28–33 stop molding, 175
pitting, 130 round holes, 70 straight cuts, 66
planes, block, 164–165 router, 167, 263 stud finder, 163
plaster-base drywall, 43, 45 studs
platform framing, 10–11 safety, 181 metal, 82
plumb, establishing, 184 sanding straightening bowed, 64
plumb bob, 184 blocks for, 209 sub-rail, 224
plumbing, in wet walls, 22–27 drywall, 132–135 supply tubes, sizing for, 23
pneumatic tools and fasteners, systems for, 57 suspended ceiling systems, 65
168, 169 trim/molding, 208–209
pole sanders, 132–133 sandpaper, 178 tablesaw, 167
polymer crown, 242–243 saws, 164–165, 166–167 tape, painter’s, 144–145
polyurethane glue, 176 scale, 161 tape measure, 162, 192–193
polyurethane products, 212–213 scarf joints, 187, 204–205 taping coat, 122–125
popcorn texture, 136 screen retainer, 175 taping corners, 124–125
portable compressors, 168 screwgun, 72 taping seams
power miter saw, 194–195 screws, 177 fixing problems with,
power planer, 167 seams, 60–61 130–131
power tools, 166–167, 194–195 setting-type joint compound, steps for, 120–129
preformed domes, 94–97 50–51 taping tools, 57
prehung doors shelf edge profiles, 175 T-bevel, 163, 185, 193
installing interior, 32–33 side cutters, 164–165 T-braces, 55
rough openings for, 29–31 simple base molding, 263–264 temperature conversions, 265
premixed joint compound, 50–51 skim coats, 136–137 textured coatings, 136
primer, 210 sliding doors, 31 texturing materials, 51
priming and painting drywall, soffits, 36–37 texturing mud, 51
138–146 sound absorbers, 110 three-way corners, installing
profile gauge, 163 Sound Transmission Class (STC), corner bead at, 117
project calculators, 182 105, 110 tile backer, 44, 84
protective wear, 164–165, 181 soundproofing, 104–111 tools
protector plates, 62 soundproofing board, 105, cleaning, 57
pry bars, 164–165 108, 110 for cleaning up after
putty knives, 164–165 sound-resistant drywall painting, 147
products, 43 for drywall, 52–57
quarter-round, 175 spinner tool, 147 for measuring, 193
quartersawn oak, 250 spiral saw, cutting drywall with, 71 for painting, 140–141
sponging, 132 for trim, 162–168
random-orbit sanders, 167, 178 sprayguns, 57 work area preparation
rasp, 164–165, 201 square, establishing, 184–185 and, 180
INDEX 271
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trim/molding planning layout for, 186, 233 building, 14–17
Arts & Crafts, 152–153, polymer, 242–243 building kneewall, 18–21
250–251 profiles, 170–175 building partition, 15–17
for basement window, 252–255 removing, 188–189 building wet wall, 22–27
built-up base, 220–223 sanding, 208–209 load-bearing, 11, 12, 14, 30
carpentry skills for, 191–215 screws and nails for, 177 partition walls, 11, 14, 15–17,
chair rails, 226–231 simple base, 263–264 31, 38–39, 107
choosing method of standard joints for, 187 staggered-stud partition, 107
attachment, 159 stool and apron, 246–249 see also framing
choosing style, 160–161 tools and materials for, water distribution pipes, sizing
clear-coating, 212–215 162–169 for, 23
crown molding, 232–243 Victorian, 150–151 water-based polyurethane, 212
cutting and fitting joints, wainscot frames, 258–262 wet sanding, 132
194–205 wall frame moldings, 256–257 wet walls, building and plumbing,
finishing, 206–207 22–27
glossary of shapes, 170 utility knives, 164–165 wet-bending, 89
glues and adhesives for, 176 window openings
installing one-piece base, vibration pads, 110–111 Arts & Crafts casing for,
218–219 Victorian trim style, 250–251
measuring and marking, 150–151, 241 casing for, 244–245
192–193 vinyl corner bead, 49, 117 options for, 13
measuring for, 239 stool and apron for,
modern, 156–157 wainscot frames, 258–262 246–249
Neoclassical, 154–155 wall frame moldings, 256–257 trim for basement, 252–255
overview of, 149 walls wood fillers, 179
painting, 210–211 anatomy of, 14 wood glue, 176
picture rails, 224–225 anchoring partition, 14 wood-framed walls, 78
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