Roofing & Siding
Black & Decker DIY Roofing - Shingles - Shakes - Tile - Rubber - Metal - PLUS Roof Repair
Source: Black & Decker DIY Roofing - Shingles - Shakes - Tile - Rubber - Metal - PLUS Roof Repair.pdf
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DIY ROOFING
Shingles • Shakes • Tile • Rubber • Metal • PLUS Roof Repair701301 - BDDIYR_307004_001-095.indd 1 6/5/18 10:52 AM 701301 - BDDIYR_307004_001-095.indd 1 6/5/18 10:51 AM Text Black Job:06-701301 Title: CSP #307004 - Black & Decker DIY Roofing Dtp:229 Page: 1
© 2013, 2018 Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
First published in 2013 as BLACK+DECKER The Complete Guide ISBN: 978-0-7603-6449-9
to Roofing & Siding, Updated 3rd Edition by Cool Springs Press, an Digital edition: 978-0-76036-450-5
imprint of The Quarto Group, 401 Second Avenue North, Suite 310,
Softcover edition: 978-0-76036-449-9
Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA. This edition published in 2018.
T (612) 344-8100 F (612) 344-8692 www.QuartoKnows.com Library of Congress Control Number: 2018943023
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any Acquiring Editor: Mark Johanson
form without written permission of the copyright owners. All images Project Manager: Alyssa Bluhm
in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior Art Director: Brad Springer
consent of the artists concerned, and no responsibility is accepted Layout: Danielle Smith-Boldt
by producer, publisher, or printer for any infringement of copyright
or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication. Every Printed in China
effort has been made to ensure that credits accurately comply with
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have occurred and will resolve inaccurate or missing information in a
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BLACK+DECKER and the BLACK+DECKER logo are trademarks of The Black & Decker Corporation and are used under license. All rights reserved.
NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The publisher and
BLACK+DECKER cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse of the
information provided.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional
techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions included with products,
since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required:
some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help.
Consult your local building department for information on building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to
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Contents
DIY Roofing 8
Introduction 7
ROOFING 9
15
Evaluating Your Needs 10
Choosing Roofing 12
Estimating Roofing 26
Working Safely 28
Roof Systems 34
Tools & Materials 36
Completing the Tear Off 38
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Contents (Cont.)
Replacing Sheathing 40
42
Underlayment 42
Drip Edge 44
Asphalt Shingles 46
Ridge Vents 54
Cedar Shakes 56
Roll Roofing 62
EPDM Rubber Roofing 68
48 Raised Seam Metal Roofing 72
Faux Slate 78
Tile Roofing 84
Inspecting & Repairing a Roof 90
74
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FLASHING, SOFFITS, FASCIA, GUTTERS & VENTS 97
96
Flashing 98
Soffits & Vents 100
Aluminum Soffits 102
Aluminum Fascia 106
Wood Soffits 108
Repairing Wood Fascia & Soffits 110
Gutters 112
99
Resources 126
Photo Credits 126
Index 127
102
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Introduction
T here is a comforting sense of security in having a solid, reliable roof over your head.
It’s what separates a well-built home from lesser structures and more uncomfortable
residences. But roofs, and their components, don’t last forever. The roof on a house is
a complex construction with many points that can fail and potentially compromise the
entire structure. That’s why understanding how a roof is put together—including the
essential role that flashing, gutters, and ventilation elements play—is so important.
Whether you’re putting on a new roof or just fixing a small problem so that it doesn’t
become a bigger issue, BLACK+DECKER DIY Roofing will help you build the skills you
need and get the job done with the bare minimum of effort and expense.
Every roof shares a very basic purpose: to protect find information on the technologies, such as
the rest of the home’s structure and the occupants photovoltaic shingles.
within it from the elements. But beyond that, any In addition, we’ve included a wealth of
given roof can be very different from the surface on information covering the many components that
top of a neighbor’s house. To start with, there is an make up a roof and how they work together. Once
amazing diversity of roofing materials. The options you understand how a roof does what it does,
range from asphalt to clay to rubber and beyond. replacing roof tiles, shakes, or shingles, repairing
Each comes with its own benefits and down sides, flashing, fixing gutters, or even ripping off a roof and
but there is usually one roofing material that is replacing it entirely becomes a realistic DIY project—
ideal for your home and your budget. That choice even more so these days, given that manufacturers
has to take into account economics, longevity, continue to simplify the processes necessary for
local codes, the architectural style of your home, installing their products.
and your own aesthetic preferences. Suffice it to The key to doing anything involving a roof is to
say, if you’re thinking about replacing your old take it slowly, double-check measurements, and be
roof or need to install a new one on the home careful with everything you do—not least because
you’re building, all the variables can be downright safety is so important when working high up on a
confusing. Take heart; you’ll find professional slanted surface. With this book, attention to detail,
guidance in this book in the form of insight and some hard work, and a friend or two, you can have
advice directing you to the ideal choice for you a new roof for a fraction of what a professional would
and your particular circumstances. You’ll also charge you.
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Roofing
T he pages that follow will help get you started on
the right foot with your roofing project. You’ll
begin the planning process by evaluating your needs
and estimating the material quantities required, the
cost, and roughly how long the project will take. Then,
you’ll take a more in-depth look at the wide variety of
product options available.
Safety is an issue with a roofing project. You’ll
learn important tips for working safely, how to set up
ladders, and how to prepare your job site to minimize
damage, manage debris, and work efficiently.
The right roofing material for your home is one that
looks great, is within your budget, and offers maximum
longevity with the least amount of maintenance. Many
homeowners opt to simply replace their roofing with the
same type—often the most sensible choice. However, if
you’d like to change the look of your home or upgrade to
a longer-lasting material, you’ll find plenty of options.
In this chapter:
• Evaluating Your Needs
• Choosing Roofing
• Estimating Roofing
• Working Safely
• Roof Systems
• Tools & Materials
• Completing the Tear Off
• Replacing Sheathing
• Underlayment
• Drip Edge
• Asphalt Shingles
• Ridge Vents
• Cedar Shakes
• Roll Roofing
• EPDM Rubber Roofing
• Raised Seam Metal Roofing
• Faux Slate
• Tile Roofing
• Inspecting & Repairing a Roof
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Evaluating Your Needs
E ven if you choose to tackle it yourself, installing
a new roof is a major financial investment. You’ll
find it worth your while to study the many material
are likely to alter the color scheme of your siding
and trim. Generally light-colored roof coverings
are more energy-efficient, and some government
options. If you do choose to stick with the type of programs offer financial incentives for selecting
roofing you currently have, you may find an attractive light-colored shingles.
or efficient upgrade in profile, color, or durability. The architectural style of your home will seldom
If you are considering a new type of roof covering, limit the choice of roofing material. With the
check out the following pages. You’ll find a wide range exception of clay tile roofing and some cement tile
of attractive roofing options that offer some good options that tend to look best on Southwestern- and
ways to enhance the look of your home. Bear in mind Mediterranean-style homes, the range of roofing
that while roofing has the all-important function of materials can suit almost any home. And roof
protecting your home from rain and snow, it has a coverings can be combined. For example, standing-
decorative role as well. A roof packs a lot of visual seam metal roofing can top off a bay or bow window
wallop, making up about a third of a home’s façade for an elegant feature that complements standard
on average. Neutral colors are a good choice if you asphalt shingles on the main roof deck.
Your roofing serves two fundamental roles: protecting you from the elements and boosting the attractiveness of your home. For
visual variety, you might choose standard asphalt shingles for the bulk of the roof, but add a premium touch such as metal
roofing above a bay window.
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Identifying Roofing Problems
Ceiling stains show up on interior surfaces, but they’re usually When shingles start to cup or show signs of widespread
caused by leaks in the roof. damage, they need to be replaced.
Loose flashing can be caused by external forces, such as Damaged and deteriorated flashing can cause roof leaks. The
high winds, or by the failure of the sealant or fasteners. The damaged piece or pieces need to be removed and replaced.
flashing can sometimes be repaired or replaced without
replacing the shingles.
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Choosing Roofing
W ith so many options, choosing a roofing material
for your home can seem like a daunting task.
Appearance, cost, ease of installation, lifespan, value,
advantages and any disadvantages, before finalizing
your decision.
Price: Prices are as varied as the roof-covering
and maintenance all play a role. products themselves and can differ from region to
Style: After you’ve narrowed your decision down region. For example, slate is a relatively accessible
to a type of material, you’ll need to choose a style roofing material in Vermont where it is quarried but a
and color. You have quite a few options; even basic luxury roofing elsewhere because of its high shipping
asphalt shingles are available in a seemingly endless cost. Cedar shingles and shakes are more expensive
number of colors. Styles include three-tabs, textured, in the Northeast than in the Northwest, again due
and scallops. primarily to shipping. However, slate, clay, and copper
Architectural features of your house, including the are generally the most expensive roofing products,
existing materials, can help in your decision making. followed by concrete tiles, metal, cedar shakes and
Stucco siding and clay roofing are a natural fit, shingles, organic asphalt, fiberglass asphalt, and roll
especially for a Spanish, Mediterranean, or Southwest roofing. If you are married to a particular look but
styling. Brick siding and metal roofing make a pleasing can’t afford the real thing, consider less expensive
contrast. Slate (real or faux) is an ideal complement substitutes. The look and features of many premium
for more traditional homes. roofing products are now replicated in other
Because roofing lasts for decades, you’ll be living materials. Some metal roofs have the profile of tile,
with your decision for a long time. Be thorough and some asphalt shingles look like the higher-priced
in looking at different products, weighing their wood shakes.
Architectural
asphalt shingles
Architectural shingles ROOFING PRICE COMPARISON
are the most
cost-effective LEAST EXPENSIVE MID RANGE
option for adding
Asphalt Concrete tiles
visual interest to
your roof. They Roll roofing Metal
are available in MOST EXPENSIVE Cedar shakes/shingles
a wide range
of colors and Slate Self-adhesive roll roofing
textures, many of Clay
which hide minor
Copper
installation flaws.
ADD UP THE EXTRAS
When determining the cost of your project, consider everything you’ll need to complete the job, including roofing, flashing,
trim, fasteners, and any underlayment necessary for repairs. Don’t forget the cost of disposal in the case of a tearoff and
the plastic tarps for protecting plantings. Should you choose to upgrade to a heavier roofing material such as concrete
tiles, clay, or slate, you may have to bolster rafters as well—a pricey proposition.
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Durability
In general, maintenance for roofing materials is quickly because it bears the full brunt of the sun and
fairly minimal. On shaded roofs, moss should be kept its UV radiation for much of the day.
under control. Any buildup of leaves and fir needles in Roof pitch also affects product lifespan. Generally
valleys should be removed to prevent ice dams. Most the higher the pitch, the less the likelihood of wind,
non-scheduled maintenance is the result of damage snow, and ice damage. Flat roofs are more susceptible
to roofing components, such as torn or cracked to damage from falling branches or ice. Standing
shingles or loosened metal flashing. Individual asphalt water is almost inevitable on flat roofs, often turning
shingles may be damaged by wind or fallen limbs and minor points of weakness into major problems.
wooden shakes or shingles may crack and loosen, Keeping nearby trees trimmed back lessens moss
in which case they can be re-nailed or replaced. Roll buildup and the hazard of damage due to falling limbs.
roofing can develop blisters or small holes, which can Wood shakes are available in different durability
be repaired with roofing cement. Metal, tile, and clay grades. Top-quality shakes carry 50-year warranties,
roofs need only minimal maintenance. while the lower-end shakes are rated to last about
Consider the lifespan of the products that you 30 years. The lifespan of asphalt shingles also varies.
want to install on your roof. Some materials are They should last a minimum of 20 years, with the
extremely durable and guaranteed to last 50 years or thicker, more durable architectural shingles lasting
more, while others may need to be replaced in less another decade or more. Roll roofing has the shortest
than 10 years. life span, lasting between 6 and 12 years. Metal roofs,
Climate influences product longevity. Long winters despite their light weight, are remarkably durable.
with many ice and thaw cycles take their toll on roofs, Warranties vary by product and manufacturer,
and so does intense wind. Even intense sunlight is a but warranties for metal roofing of 30 to 50 years or
factor; often a south-facing roof deteriorates more more are typical.
Durability does not
necessarily come
with a high price tag.
Concrete tile roofing
is less expensive
than slate or real tile
but offers the same
benefits of long life,
fire resistance, and a
premium appearance.
Along with concrete,
clay tile and slate
are the most durable
roofing products.
Shakes made of vinyl
provide the look of
hand-split cedar
shakes without
the maintenance
required for real
wood. They’re
especially suited to
damp climates where
moss can damage
wood shakes.
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Asphalt Three-Tab Shingles
Asphalt three-tab roof shingles consist of a sandwich of the quality of the shingle and the intensity of the local
asphalt and fiberglass or felt layers covered by mineral climate. Installing or repairing asphalt shingles isn’t
granules. For several important reasons they’ve been difficult; in fact, it’s the most approachable roofing
the dominant roofing option in the United States material for do-it-yourselfers or any qualified roofing
for more than a century. Weighing 2 to 3 pounds per installer. Ease of installation also helps keep costs
square foot, asphalt shingles are relatively lightweight down. Once installed, high-quality asphalt singles are
compared to slate, clay, or cement tile. Any pitched relatively maintenance free and offer good fire and
roof that’s suitable for shingling (a 4-in-12 slope or wind resistance. They come in a wide range of colors
greater) and properly constructed can accept asphalt to blend in nicely with any siding and trim color
shingles without further reinforcement. scheme. If you live in a damp or coastal environment,
Asphalt three-tabs are reasonably priced, and you you can also find asphalt shingles impregnated with
can expect them to last about 20 years, depending on algaecides to prevent staining.
The most common roof covering by far, asphalt three‑tab shingles are inexpensive, lightweight, and available in a wide range of
colors and styles. They are also easy to install, require few tools to do it, and are do‑it‑yourself friendly.
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ASPHALT SHINGLE TYPES
Asphalt shingles are usually rated by lifespan, with 20-, 25-, and 40-year ratings the most common (although some now
claim to be 50-year shingles). Functionally, these ratings should be used for comparison purposes only. For example,
asphalt shingles on a low-pitch roof in a hot climate might fail in as little as 12 years.
The term “multitab shingle” refers to any asphalt shingle manufactured with stamped cutouts to mimic the shapes of slate
tile or wood shakes. Multitab cutouts are made and installed in single-thickness, 3' strips, so these tabbed reveals show
up. The ubiquitous term for them is “three-tab,” but two- and four-tab styles are also available. Generally, the tabs are
spaced evenly along each sheet of shingle to provide a uniform appearance and a stepped, brick-laid pattern on the roof.
However, some manufacturers also offer styles with shaped corners or randomly spaced tabs trimmed to different heights
for a more unique look.
3-tab
25-year rating Architectural shingles
4-tab
Shadow-line
shingles
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Laminated Asphalt Shingles
Laminated asphalt shingles are an increasingly methods apply. The random pattern can even reduce
popular option for new homes or roofing overall installation waste because the pattern is more
replacements. You may also hear them referred to visually forgiving than the uniform design of three‑tab
as “dimensional,” “architectural,” or “multithickness” shingles. Sections of shingles that would otherwise
shingles. Essentially, laminated asphalt shingles have interrupt a three‑tab pattern can still be used in a
the same material composition as multitab cutout laminated shingle installation.
shingles—a sandwich of asphalt, base sheeting of The added shingle layer makes laminated shingles
felt or fiberglass, and granular coatings. However, heavier than standard three‑tab shingles, but the
the important difference is that instead of a single weight difference isn’t critical; any pitched roof can
shingle layer, two layers are bonded together to accept them without special structural reinforcement.
create a three‑dimensional appearance. The top layer Laminated shingles are also thicker than multitab
has wide, randomly sized notches, and it overlays shingles, which gives them improved wind resistance
a staggered, unnotched bottom layer. The effect of and durability. As you might expect, they’re more
this lamination treatment helps mimic the natural expensive than three‑tab shingles. The added thickness
inconsistencies of a cedar shake or slate roof. enables manufacturers to offer longer 30‑ to 50‑year
Laminated shingles are no more difficult to install warranties, which can make them a better investment
than three‑tab shingles, and the same installation than three‑tab shingles over the life of your roof.
Architectural shingles (also called laminated and
dimensional) are installed very similarly to regular
three‑tab asphalt shingles, but they offer a more
sophisticated appearance with greater visual depth (inset).
They also come with longer warranties than comparable
three‑tab shingles. They’re easy for homeowners to install,
only marginally more difficult than standard three‑tabs,
and require only basic tools.
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Asphalt Roll Roofing
For low-pitched roofs, or in cases where budgetary seal. The wider overlap provided by the selvedge edge
concerns are more important than appearance, rolled lends a double-coverage effect. (Double-coverage
roofing might be the perfect choice for your situation. roofing is rapidly becoming rare.)
Roll roofing is also a good option if you need to cover Single-coverage roll roofing may also have a
a roof for an extended period but plan to install the selvedge edge for cement, but it will be only a few
final roofing at a later date. inches wide. Single- and double-coverage styles are
Think of asphalt-and-granule roll roofing as secured with roofing nails around the edges. Both
continuous strips of asphalt shingles without the types are suitable for do-it-yourself roofing.
tab cutouts. Roll asphalt roofing is installed in New self-adhesive products have lifted this type
overlapping layers just like asphalt shingles, but the of roofing out of the bargain basement. Made of two
amount of exposure from one layer to the next is layers—a base layer covered by a granule-coated top
much greater than it is with roll shingles. Depending layer—these products install much like an ice and
on the product, asphalt roll roofing will either be water shield and offer better appearance and increased
entirely covered with granules and installed to provide longevity. The adhesive is fierce, all but eliminating
a single layer of coverage, or only half the sheet will be any tendancy to blister. Because of the adhesion and
covered in a granule layer. The uncoated half (called two-layered installation, manufacturers warranty the
a selvedge edge) and half of the shingle layer above material for 15 years. Most manufacturers of standard
it are covered with roofing cement for an improved roll roofing offer no warranty at all.
Self-adhesive
roll roofing
Roll roofing
Ice and water
shield
Roll roofing is essentially building paper with a granular surface coating. Single-coverage roll roofing is typically installed in a
perimeter bond application with an overlap of about 6". Self-adhesive ice and water shield is a roll roof product that is installed
under the first few courses of shingles to prevent leaks from ice dams. Self-adhesive roll roofing has two layers and offers better
longevity than typical roll roofing.
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EPDM Rubber Roofing
Rubber membrane roofing, also known as ethylene The membrane is available in 10- or 20-foot-wide
propylene diene monomer (EPDM) roofing, is rolls to help reduce the total number of seams.
installed in wide sheets using a specialized latex Common thicknesses are 45 and 60 mil (.04 and
bonding adhesive, but it is not nailed in place. Rubber .06 inch). In recent years, EPDM membrane has
roofs for home use are almost always fully bonded become more do-it-yourself friendly, and it’s available
to the roof deck with cement. The absence of nails to consumers through roofing suppliers and some
make it an even better choice for low-pitch roofs that home centers. It is comparably priced to quality
are susceptible to leaks. You may choose to install a asphalt shingles. For heat reflection and an added layer
rubber membrane on a pitched roof simply because it of protection, some homeowners opt to add gravel
is seamless and easy to install. ballast or, if the structure can bear it, concrete pavers.
Rubber membrane roofs used to be installed almost exclusively in commercial situations, but DIY-friendly versions have become
common in recent years. They’re an excellent choice for flat or near-flat roofs. The rubber material is sold in prepackaged rolls
(50' and 100' are common), or you can buy it by the linear foot from some roofing material suppliers.
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Slate Shingles
Slate roofing has been around for centuries, and asphalt shingles. A conventionally framed or truss
it’s one of the most weather-resistant and beautiful roof may require additional framing before it’s suitable
options you can put on your roof. It is quarried and for slate shingles. Check with a structural engineer to
cut into thin individual shingles and installed with see if your home’s roof will support slate.
nails. Natural variations in color and texture give slate Installing slate shingles involves the use of
an organic quality that is unmatched by synthetic specialized cutting tools and skills, which makes it
roofing products. extremely complicated to install for do-it-yourselfers as
However, despite its visual appeal and long-lasting well as many roofers. Once installed, slate’s durability
performance—more than 100 years in many cases—a to the elements doesn’t extend to foot traffic. The
number of important factors may make slate shingles are brittle and can break if they are stepped
unfeasible for your home. For one, slate is heavy, on. Replacing broken shingles involves installing extra
weighing about twice as much as asphalt singles per staging and ladders to prevent further damage, and
square foot. It’s also about triple the cost of premium removing individual shingles is a complicated process.
Slate roofs are expensive and not DIY-friendly, but for overall attractiveness and durability, they’re
hard to beat. Due its longevity, slate requires premium flashing materials and careful installation.
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Clay Tile
Clay tile roofs are common on southern and coastal Depending on the region in which you live, there
homes, where intense heat and high winds are a may be many qualified roofers who can install it
concern. Since clay is a manufactured product, properly. Working with clay tile requires cutting with
roofing tiles are available in a wide range of shapes, a diamond-blade saw, and it may not be suitable for
sizes, and colors. Clay tiles offer excellent durability complex roof designs. It is also relatively fragile and
and fire resistance. However, clay is slightly heavier cannot be walked on, so repairs can be difficult. The
than slate, and installing it over typical roof framing installed cost of clay tiles is comparable to slate. On
may require adding structural reinforcements. Of all but the most basic roof designs, clay tile is not
course, this adds to the project costs. do-it-yourself friendly.
Clay tile roofs have a distinctive regional appearance, but they can be installed in practically any climate. They’re heavy and
relatively expensive. Most clay tiles have a half-pipe shape and terra-cotta color, but with a little research you can find a rather
wide range of colors and styles. Due to its weight and unique method of installation, clay tile is a challenging material for
a do-it-yourselfer.
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Concrete Tile
Concrete continues to grow in popularity as a roofing As you would expect, concrete roof tiles are
material. That’s not surprising, given that the right heavy. They weigh a bit more than slate tiles do and
formulation in a roof tile provides superior wind, about the same as a roof built of clay tile. However,
hail, and fire resistance, with a life to rival much modern versions are often fortified with wood fibers,
more expensive clay or slate tiles. Contemporary composites, or polymers to cut down on the overall
concrete roofing tiles are produced in an impressive weight and put less stress on the framed structure—
range of surface shapes and appearances, some all without compromising durability. Concrete tiles
mimicking other materials. Some manufacturers offer the same performance as slate or clay tiles, with
even offer concrete tiles that look convincingly a significantly lower installation cost—roughly half
like wood. the price of a roof made of slate.
Fiber cement is growing quickly as a concrete roofing tile material, much as it is for lap siding. It offers a singular package
of durability, low maintenance, beauty, and reasonable cost. Cement tiles and fiber-cement tiles usually have a simulated
wood grain appearance to resemble wood shingles, but concrete tiles are available in many other styles. Though heavy and
challenging to cut, concrete tiles are straightforward to install.
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Metal Roofing
Metal roofing has proven its durability as a materials, any standard‑framed roof can support it.
residential roofing material for centuries in Europe, Provided the shingles are in sound condition and
but until recently it was more common to see a metal local building codes permit it, metal roofing can even
roof on an agricultural or commercial building than be installed over a layer or two of asphalt shingles.
on a home here in the States. That trend is quickly This saves on the cost and effort involved with
changing. Advances in metal‑forming techniques a tearoff.
and improvements in coatings have created a Metal offers excellent wind and fire resistance,
wide variety of styles and colors to choose from, and improvements in rust‑inhibitive coatings make
making metal roofing a more enticing option for it weather well for many decades. It resists peeling,
homeowners. In fact, metal roofing is the fastest‑ chalking, and fading from UV light. Metal roofs are
growing segment of the residential roofing products quite common in coastal areas that are subjected to
market for several reasons. For one, metal is the tropical storms and high winds. They also perform
lightest‑weight roofing material made. Because favorably when subjected to heavy snowfall or
metal roofing weighs less than most other roofing ice accumulations.
Standing-seam metal roofs are lightweight, very durable, and
only moderately expensive. Typically, they are fabricated on-
site by pros, but some prefabricated panel systems are DIY
friendly. Installing metal roofing requires metal cutting skills
and the selection of a product that doesn’t require special
installation equipment.
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Metal shingles offer color, dimensionality, and long life. They Metal roofing shaped like low-profiled tile comes not just in
install in panels one course deep and 2' to 4' long. Some terra cotta, but red, blue, gray, green, and brown—a good
types are granular coated, looking much like concrete tiles option if you plan to make your roof a design feature of
but without the added weight. your home.
Unlike wood or asphalt roofing, metal will not There are a few drawbacks to metal roofing worth
rot, crack, or promote algae growth, so it is largely noting. It is slippery when wet, and it can be dented or
maintenance free. Light-colored metal roofs, scratched. Metal can be difficult to adapt to complex
which reflect sunlight instead of absorbing it, offer roof styles. Eventually steel roofing will need to be
energy-saving benefits as well. Attics stay cooler in repainted to prevent corrosion.
summer months, which reduces energy costs. Given Although it shouldn’t be difficult to find
its durability, warranties in the 30- to 50-year range qualified installers in most regions, you need special
are common for professionally installed metal roofing metalworking skills to tackle most residential metal
systems. In terms of cost, metal is more expensive roofing products yourself.
than premium asphalt shingles but cheaper than slate
or clay.
Residential metal roofing is available in steel, CORRUGATED NONMETALLIC PANELS
aluminum, or copper. It is embossed in several
surface textures to simulate clay tiles, wood shakes,
or asphalt shingles. Some products are coated with
granules to enhance their texture. Embossed metal
roofing comes in either horizontal panels with several
shingles formed on each panel or as individual shake
or tile shapes. Each piece has flanges that clip to
the top and bottom of adjacent pieces or nail-down
clips along the edges. Smooth panels with standing
seams crimped or clipped together along both long
edges are the most common style of metal roofing.
The metal panels can be formed on location with
common metalworking tools. They’re also available in Prefabricated panels made of metal, fiberglass, or clear
prefabricated panels. Copper is most often installed polycarbonate come in standard widths and lengths and
in panel form and left unfinished to weather to a are usually installed over a system of purlins. Historically,
they have been used most often to roof outbuildings
green patina. It is the most expensive option. Steel or
and shelters, but the metal versions are becoming more
aluminum roofing come in a spectrum of colors to popular for whole houses and room additions.
suit any siding color scheme.
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Environmentally Friendly Roofs
A little-known but new breed of environmentally a concern. Some of these alternative roofing products
friendly roofing products is now available for are made from recycled materials, such as used car
residential applications. If you like the look of slate, tires or post-industrial waste, and the roofing may be
tile, or wood shakes, you can now buy them made entirely recyclable when it wears out.
from blends of polymers, sawdust, rubber, vinyl, and Polymer or rubber composite roofing materials
fiberglass. These composite shingles are quite flexible, are heavier than metal but they are about the same
so they can withstand high winds, hail damage, or weight as laminated asphalt shingles. Most come
foot traffic without splitting, rotting, or breaking. with 50-year warranties that can be transferred from
Fire retarders and UV inhibitors are added to make one homeowner to the next. They install easily with
them as durable as conventional roofing options. In nails over typical felt underlayment, just like asphalt
polymer-based shingles, the color is blended through shingles. You may be able to install a composite roof
the material, so scratches won’t show and peeling isn’t yourself, depending on the product.
Slag Green products on the roof, as in every other part of the house,
are beginning to flood the market. This welcome occurrence is
creating a whole new category of options for homeowners with
pro-environment priorities. Most of the newer products, such
as those seen here, are made with recycled materials using
composite technologies. Others, however, feature slightly older
technology (see Living Roofs, next page). Local tile materials
(from within a 500-mile project radius) manufactured with
indigenous materials and postindustrial recycled content,
including fly ash and slag, are shown here. These criteria
Fly ash contribute toward third-party certification and possible
leadership in energy and environmental design (LEED) credits.
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GREEN ROOF OPTIONS
LIVING ROOFS
Once a mainstay on the Great Plains where no other roofing
material was available and only sod made sense, living roofs
made of plants and planting media are well established
in commercial construction and used increasingly in
residential architecture. Modular systems, installed over a
waterproof membrane such as EPDM, have taken much of
the risk out of living roofs. Here are the benefits:
• Properly maintained, a living roof can last 50 years.
• Living roofs reduce storm water runoff, cutting
waterway pollution and energy demands on sewage Eco-friendliness and natural insulation help offset the cost
treatment plants. of a living roof. If your roof slope is slight and its framing
beefy enough to stand the extra weight, you can choose
• A living roof adds insulation, reducing heating costs from several manufactured systems to add overhead
and cutting cooling costs as much as 25 percent. foliage to your home.
• Living roofs improve air quality. A two-car garage with a living roof will create enough oxygen annually to supply
25 people for a year.
• A living roof provides habitat for wildlife.
• Green roofs can host some types of vegetables for a beautiful overhead addition.
Whether you choose to add a living roof to your home or experiment with the approach on your garage, there are three
primary methods of achieving a living roof. The first is to hire a design-and-build firm that specializes in the installation
of living roofs; the second is to build one yourself using a proprietary kit-type system; last, you can make one mostly from
products you can purchase at a home center. Here are some planning tips to consider:
• Avoid slopes greater than 2-in-12. It is possible to create a living roof on a steeper pitch, but it is much more complicated.
• Consult with your local building department and a structural engineer to make sure your roof framing is adequate to
support the weight of a living roof. Depending on the growing medium and drainage method used, a living roof can
add up to 100 pounds per square foot.
• Unless your current roof covering is a waterproof membrane, such as EPDM rubber (the preferred roofing) or bonded
PVC sheets, you will need to reroof.
• Are you comfortable working at heights? You will need to do occasional weeding and replanting, and unless you
choose drought-resistant plants, you may need to water as well.
PHOTOVOLTAIC SHINGLES
If you aren’t ready for something photosynthetic on your roof, how about something photovoltaic? Until very recently, if
you wanted to put your roof to work generating power, you had to tolerate clunky—and expensive—solar panels. Other
options, such as flexible photovoltaic strips on flat or metal roofs and solar panels roughly as thick as concrete tiles, were
good first steps, but new integrated photovoltaic shingles are truly suited to a roof on any suburban cul-de-sac. Melded
into asphalt roofing (they almost disappear on a black roof), photovoltaic shingles protect you from the elements while
feeding electricity into your house. Thin and flexible, much like asphalt three-tabs, they nail in place, each subsequent
course covering the nail heads of the previous course. As they are installed they link together with built-in plugs. The
shingles are tough enough to withstand a hammer drop, as well as rough weather.
The estimate for a full roof of photovoltaic shingles can be a bit daunting, but keep in mind that the total amount can be
cut down considerably by federal tax credits, as well as state and local incentives. Those can add up to a savings of half
the cost of the roof or more. And better yet, once the roof is installed and producing electricity, it can potentially produce
half to three-quarters of the energy your household uses, depending on your family’s usage pattern, your appliances, and
the sun exposure the surface area of the roof receives.
These are the early days for this technology, and you may want to wait until this approach has proven itself. But for
simplicity and integrated appearance, this system is well worth watching.
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Estimating Roofing
R oofing materials are ordered in squares, with one
square equaling 100 square feet. To determine
how many squares are needed, first figure out the
square footage of your roof. The easiest way to
make this calculation is to multiply the length by
the width of each section of roof, and then multiply Asphalt shingles come in packaged bundles weighing around
the numbers. 65 pounds each. For typical three-tab shingles, three bundles
will cover one square (100 sq. ft.) of roof.
For steep roofs and those with complex designs, do
your measuring from the ground and multiply by
a number based on the slope of your roof. Measure
the length and width of your house, include the They’re usually small enough that they don’t impact
overhangs, then multiply the numbers together the number of squares you need. Besides, it’s good
to determine the overall square footage. Using to have extra materials for waste, mistakes, and
the chart below, multiply the square footage by a later repairs.
number based on the roof ’s slope. Add 10 percent To determine how much flashing you’ll need,
for waste, then divide the total square footage by 100 measure the length of the valley to figure valley
to determine the number of squares you need. Don’t flashing, the lengths of the eaves and rakes to figure
spend time calculating and subtracting the areas that drip edge, and the number and size of vent pipes to
won’t be covered, such as skylights and chimneys. figure vent flashing.
Calculate the roof’s area by multiplying
the height of the roof by the width. Do
this for each section, then add the totals
together. Divide that number by 100,
add 10 percent for waste, and that’s the Width
number of squares of roofing materials
you need.
Height
CONVERSION CHART Width Height
SLOPE MULTIPLY SLOPE MULTIPLY Height Height
BY BY
Width Width
2-in-12 1.02 8-in-12 1.20
3-in-12 1.03 9-in-12 1.25
4-in-12 1.06 10-in-12 1.30
5-in-12 1.08 11-in-12 1.36
6-in-12 1.12 12-in-12 1.41
7-in-12 1.16
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Measuring and Planning
Calculate the slope of your roof before
12"
beginning any roofing project. Roof
slope is defined as the number of
inches the roof rises for each 12" of
5"
horizontal extension (called the “run”).
For example, the roof shown here has
a 5-in-12 slope: it rises 5" in 12" of
run. Knowing the slope is important
when selecting materials and gauging
the difficulty of working on the roof. To
ensure safe footing, install temporary
roof jacks if the slope is 7-in-12 or
steeper. Roofs with a slope of 3-in-12
or less require a fully bonded covering
to protect against the effects of
pooling water.
HOW TO MEASURE A SLOPE
Hold a carpenter’s square against the roofline, with the top arm horizontal (check it with a level). Position the square so
it intersects the roof at the 12" mark. On the vertical arm, measure down from the top to the point of intersection to find
the rise.
ESTIMATING TIME REQUIREMENTS
TASK TIME REQUIRED × AMOUNT = TOTAL TIME
Install felt paper 30 min./square
Tear-off 1 hr./square*
APPLY SHINGLES:
Dormers add 1 hour each
Flat run 2 hrs./square**
Ridges, hips 30 min./10'
FLASHING:
Chimneys 2 hrs. ea.
Drip edge 30 min./20'
Roof vents 30 min. ea.
Skylights 2 hrs. ea.
Valleys 30 min./10'
Vent pipes 30 min. ea.
TOTAL TIME FOR PROJECT
NOTE: All time estimates are based on one worker. Reduce time by 40%
Protect against damage from falling materials when working if you have a helper.
on the roof. Hang tarps over the sides of the house, and *One square=100 sq. ft.
lean plywood against the house to protect the vegetation **Include area of dormer surface in “flat run” estimate
and siding.
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Work with a helper whenever possible—especially
when working at heights. If you must work alone, tell
a family member or friend so the person can check in
with you periodically. Keep your cell phone handy at
all times.
Don’t use tools or work at heights after consuming
alcohol. If you’re taking medications, read the label
Working Safely and follow the recommendations regarding the use of
tools and equipment.
When using ladders, extend the top of the ladder
3 feet above the roof edge for greater stability. Climb
W orking on the exterior of a house presents
challenges not faced in the interior, such
as dealing with the weather, working at heights,
on and off the ladder at a point as close to the ground
as possible. Use caution and keep your center of
gravity low when moving from a ladder onto a roof.
and staying clear of power lines. By taking a few Keep your hips between the side rails when reaching
commonsense safety precautions, you can perform over the side of a ladder, and be careful not to extend
exterior work safely. yourself too far and throw off your balance. Move the
Dress appropriately for the job and weather. ladder as often as necessary to avoid overreaching.
Avoid working in extreme temperatures, hot or Finally, don’t exceed the workload rating for your
cold, and never work outdoors during a storm or ladder. Read and follow the load limits and safety
high winds. instructions listed on the label.
Always wear appropriate clothing and
safety equipment when working at
heights. Eye protection and hearing To tie-off at roof ridge
protection are important when using
power tools or pneumatic tools. And if
you’ll be climbing on a roof, wear tennis
shoes or any sturdy shoe with a soft sole
designed for gripping. When roofing,
do not wear hard-soled shoes or boots,
which can damage shingles and are
prone to slipping. On sloped roofs, fall-
arresting gear should always be worn.
The rig seen here (see Resources, page
126) is affordable for homeowner use.
You can also rent fall-arresting gear at
many rental centers.
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SAFETY TIPS
Use a GFCI extension cord when working outdoors. GFCIs
(ground-fault circuit-interrupters) shut off power if a ground
fault occurs in the electrical circuit.
Enlist a helper to raise an extension ladder. A reliable rule
of thumb for the correct distance from the ladder feet to
the bracing wall is ¼ of the height of the ladder’s extension
(if the ladder is extended 12 feet, position the feet of the
ladder 3 feet from the wall). Once in position, and with
a helper bracing the ladder feet, extend the ladder to
the required height and then walk it upright until it rests
against the house.
Use fiberglass ladders when working near power cables.
Exercise extreme caution around these cables, and only
work near them when absolutely necessary.
Never climb a ladder with a loaded air nailer attached to
a pressurized air hose. Even with trigger safeties, air guns
pose a serious danger to the operator as well as anyone
who may be standing near the ladder. Connect the gun to
the hose only after you are off the ladder safely.
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LADDER SAFETY TIPS
Attach a ladder jack to your ladder by slipping the rung Set the plank in place on the platform arm. Adjust the arm’s
mounts over the ladder rungs. Level the platform body end stop to hold the plank in place.
arm, and lock it into place.
Fly hooks
CAUTION:
Use care when
approaching transition
steps between flies.
Stabilize your ladder with stakes driven into the ground, Make sure both fly hooks are secure before climbing an
behind each ladder foot. Install sturdy blocking under the extension ladder. The open ends of the hooks should grip a
legs of the ladder if the ground is uneven. rung on the lower fly extension.
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Fall-Arresting Gear
Even if you consider yourself dexterous and are comfortable working is small. Better yet, you’ll have it
in high places, all it takes is one misstep on a roof to lead to a tragic available any time you need to get
fall. Despite the fact that many professional roofers never don safety on the roof for cleaning tasks or to
harnesses, you should seriously consider investing in personal make repairs.
fall-arresting gear if you plan to reroof your home.
Fall-arresting gear consists of several components. Wear a webbed
body harness that spreads the impact of a fall over your shoulders, thighs, TOOLS & MATERIALS
and back to reduce injury. Harnesses are made to fit average adult builds.
The harness connects to a shock absorber and a lanyard around 6 feet Pry bar
in length. A self-locking, rope-grab mechanism attaches the lanyard to a Drill/driver
lifeline that must be fastened securely to a ridge anchor screwed to roof Harness
framing. In the event that you slip or fall, the rope grab will limit your fall
Lanyard
to the length of the lanyard because it will not move down the lifeline
unless you override the locking mechanism by hand. Rope grab
Many rental centers carry fall-arresting gear, or you can buy a Synthetic fiber lifeline
complete system for less than $100 (see Resources, page 126). When Ridge anchor
compared with the loss of life or limb, however, your real investment
A metal ridge anchor must be secured with screws to the roof The rope-grab mechanism allows you to move up a roof along
framing. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the lifeline without interference. To move down the roof, you’ll
proper screw sizing, and make sure your attachment points need to override the grab by hand. As soon as you release it,
go beyond the roof sheathing into the roof trusses or rafters. the lock engages again.
Personal fall-arresting gear
B consists of a lifeline (A)
A D with mechanical rope
grab (B) and lanyard (C);
E a metal ridge anchor (D);
and a body harness (E).
C
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Lifting & Staging Shingles
Carrying bundles of asphalt shingles up a ladder and dozen bundles or less to help distribute the weight. If
onto a roof deck is a grueling job, especially if you possible, place the bundles at a point where two roofs
have as many as 50 bundles to haul. With each bundle intersect for added stability. Distribute your stacks
weighing 65 to 75 pounds, you need to be concerned evenly along the length of the roof ridge so they are
about two issues: your safety and how to stage the readily available wherever you’re working as the job
material for efficient installation. The easiest solution progresses. Since the ridge is the last area shingled,
is to simply have your roofing supplier unload the most of your supply should be used and out of the way
shingles directly to your roof with a boom truck or by the time you reach the peak.
conveyor belt. This will cost a nominal fee, but the For smaller jobs, you may elect to simply carry the
physical exertion you’ll avoid may be well worth bundles up to the roof yourself. In this situation, wear
the cost. a back support brace to prevent back strain, and carry
If you must manually unload the bundles from one bundle at a time over your shoulder so you can
your supplier while on the roof, place the first bundle keep one hand on a ladder rung at all times. Hand off
or two flat on the roof to serve as a base, then stack each bundle to a helper waiting for you on the roof.
subsequent bundles partially on the first two and Switch jobs before you get tired to conserve your
partially on the roof deck. Limit your stack sizes to a energy and share the really hard work.
How to Stage Shingles
Lumbar support brace
When you must carry bundles up a ladder, wear a lumbar support Build stable stacks of a dozen bundles of shingles near the
brace to prevent back strain. Take your time carrying each roof ridge. Create stacks by placing two bundles flat on the
bundle, and rest often. Make sure the bundle is well balanced roof, then adding more bundles that straddle both the first two
before you ascend the ladder. If you feel the weight of the and the roof deck. When possible, stack bundles where two
bundle start to shift, drop the bundle immediately for your safety. roof areas meet.
Have a helper waiting for you when you reach the roof deck so
you don’t have to unload bundles near the eave or risk a fall.
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ROOF JACKS
Sure footing isn’t an issue when you’re working on a
low-pitched roof, but it becomes a real safety concern
for roofs with 7-in-12 or steeper pitches. In these
situations, you need to install roof jacks to create a
stable work area and navigate the roof safely. Roof jacks
are steel braces that nail temporarily to roof decking
to support a 2 × 8 or 2 × 10 perch. In addition to
improving your footing, roof jacks also provide a flatter
surface to stand on, which can help reduce ankle
strain. Roof jacks should be installed every 4' of plank
length with 16d nails. They’re inexpensive and available
wherever roofing products are sold.
16d nails
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Pry bar Roof jacks
Roof jacks are steel braces that are nailed to the roof
Hammer 2 × 8 or 2 × 10 lumber deck. Installed in pairs, they support a dimensional board
16d nails (usually a 2 × 8) to create a sturdy work platform on a
sloped roof.
How to Install Roof Jacks
1 2 3
Nail roof jacks to the roof at the Shingle over the tops of the roof jacks. When the project is complete, remove
fourth or fifth course. Drive 16d Rest a 2 × 8 or 2 × 10 board on the the boards and jacks. Position the
nails into the overlap, or dead area, jacks. Fasten the board with a nail end of a flat pry bar over each nail
where they won’t be exposed. Install driven through the hole in the lip of and drive in the nail by rapping the
one jack every 4', with a 6" to 12" each roof jack. shank with a hammer.
overhang at the ends of the boards.
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Roof vents
Roof Systems
T he elements of a roof
system work together to
provide shelter, drainage,
and ventilation. The roof
covering is composed Vent pipe
of sheathing, felt
paper, and shingles.
Rake edge
Roof sheathing
Metal flashing is attached in
valleys and around chimneys, vent
pipes, and other roof elements to
Fascia
seal out water. Soffits cover and
protect the eaves area below the
roof overhang. Fascia, usually
attached at the ends of the rafters,
supports soffit panels as well as
a gutter and downspout system.
Soffit vents and roof vents keep
fresh air circulating throughout
the roof system.
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Chimney cap
Valley flashing
Counter flashing
Ridge
Base flashing
Shingles
Soffit panel
Soffit vents
Eave
Valley
Gutters
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Tools & Materials
R oofing is tough work, hard on the back, hands,
and upper body. Make the job as easy as possible
by gathering the right tools and equipment before you
begin. Doing so will make the work go faster and spare
you physical wear and tear. Many of the necessary
tools will prove useful for other DIY projects.
Some of these tools, such as a pneumatic nailer or
a roofer’s hatchet, are specific to roofing projects. If
you don’t have them and don’t want to buy them, they For more secure footing, fashion a roofing ladder by nailing
are rentable. Here are the essential tools you’ll need wood strips across a pair of 2 × 4s. Secure the ladder to the
for most roofing jobs. roof jacks, and use it to maintain your footing.
Air compressor
Roof jacks
Chalkline
Framing square Utility knife
with
hooked blade Tape measure
Cordless Flat pry bar Caulk gun
drill/driver
Hammer Pneumatic nailer
Speed Roofing stapler
square hammer
Straight edge
Roofing shovel
Several roofing tools may already be in your toolchest. Other tools, such as a pneumatic nailer, ladder jacks, and a roofing
hammer, are wise additions to your DIY arsenal.
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Drip edge
Preformed
valley flashing
Rolled flashing
Aviation snips
Skylight
Step flashing blanks flashing
Vent pipe flashing kit (partial)
Roof flashing can be hand cut or purchased in preformed shapes and sizes. Long pieces of valley flashing, base flashing, top
saddles, and other nonstandard pieces can be cut from rolled flashing material using aviation snips. Step flashing blanks can
be bought in standard sizes and bent to fit. Drip edge and vent pipe flashing are available preformed. Skylight flashing usually
comes as a kit with the window. Complicated flashings, such as chimney crickets, can be custom fabricated by a metalworker.
Aluminum
roofing nails
Building paper (30#)
Rubber
gasket nails
Galvanized
roofing nails Roofing cement
Ice and water shield
Roofing nail coil
(for pneumatic nailer)
Different fasteners are specially developed for different jobs. Use Common roofing materials include 30# felt paper for use as
galvanized roofing nails to hand nail shingles; use aluminum nails underlayment; ice and water shield for use as underlayment
for aluminum flashing; use rubber gasket nails for galvanized in cold climates; and tubes of roofing cement for sealing small
metal flashing; and use nail coils for pneumatic nailers. holes and adhering shingles or flashing.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Completing the Tear Off Wheelbarrow or dumpster
Hammer
Chisel
R emoving shingles, commonly referred to in the roofing trade as the
tear off, can be done rather quickly. This makes it one of the more
satisfying parts of a reshingling project. If you can’t reshingle your entire
Pry bar
Utility knife
Roofing shovel or pitchfork
roof in one day, tear off one section of roofing at a time, roof that section,
then move on to the next part of the roof. Broom
The tear off produces a lot of waste. A few preparatory steps make Release magnet
cleanup much easier. Lay tarps on the ground and lean sheets of plywood Rake
against the house to protect shrubbery and the siding. Tin snips
If renting a dumpster isn’t practical or you can’t get one close to the
roof, set wheelbarrows on tarps as an alternative for catching debris. Reciprocating saw
However, you’ll still be responsible for disposing of the old roofing Drill
materials, which will probably require several trips to the landfill. To Protective gear
work efficiently, have another person deal with the debris on the ground Tarps
as you work on the roof. Always wear appropriate safety gear.
Rent a dumpster from a waste disposal company or your
local waste management department. If you are re-roofing,
position the dumpster directly below the roof edge, so when
you’re tearing off the old roofing materials, the debris can be
dumped from the roof directly into the dumpster.
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How to Tear Off Old Shingles
1 3
2
Remove the ridge cap using a flat pry Working downward from the peak, Remove flashing by cutting and prying.
bar. Pry up the cap shingles at the tear off the building paper and Avoid damaging pipes and vents. You
nail locations. old shingles with a roofing shovel may be able to salvage longer flashing
or pitchfork. pieces, such as chimney saddles
and crickets.
4 5
After removing the shingles, building paper, and flashing If an unexpected delay keeps you from finishing a section
from the entire tear-off section, pry out any remaining nails before nightfall, cover any unshingled sections using tarps
and sweep the roof. In some cases it is easier to drive nail weighted down with shingle bundles.
heads flush with the roof surface.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Replacing Sheathing Circular saw Sheathing
Reciprocating saw 2 × 4 nailing strips
Tape measure 3", 2½" deck screws
O nce the tear off is complete, inspect the roof
decking for damage. If there are any soft spots
on the roof, or if a portion of the sheathing is
Chalkline
Flat pry bar
Plywood
8d ring-shank
damaged, it’ll need to be replaced. Most older roofs Drill siding nails
are constructed with board sheathing, usually 1 × 6s,
while newer roofs typically use 4 × 8-foot sheets
of plywood or oriented strandboard (OSB). Even if Damage to the roof sheathing normally occurs
your roof has board sheathing, you can make the because there is a violation of the roof seal, typically
repairs with plywood, as we’re doing here. Make sure occurring around a chimney, roof vent, skylight or
the plywood is the same thickness as your current another flashed object. If you will be reflashing the
sheathing and rated for exterior use. roof, make sure you don’t repeat any mistakes. If you
Before cutting into your roof, check under the are making only localized repairs, be sure that you
sheathing for wires. There may be telephone wires or identify and correct the source of the moisture that’s
television cable hidden in the roof, and you don’t want caused the deterioration. If the damage is located
to cut through them. Avoid walking on the damaged near the eave and is not caused by a flashing problem
sheathing. If you have access from the underside, it or a leak in the roof covering, it is probably caused by
may be safer to remove the sheathing from below. an ice dam (see page 90).
After
Before
Inspect for damaged sheathing after tear off is completed.
Replace damaged roof deck, making sure the new seams fall
over rafters. Also replace trim boards in the repair area if they
have become damaged.
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How to Replace Damaged Sheathing
1 2
Use a reciprocating saw to cut next to the rafters in an area Attach 2 × 4 nailing strips to the inside edges of the rafters
that extends well beyond the damaged area. Pry out the using 3" deck screws
damaged sections using a pry bar.
3
OPTION: If your existing roof deck is made of boards (1 × 6
Use exterior grade plywood or OSB to make a patch. Measure was common before plywood took over the market), it
the cutout area, allow for a 1⁄8" gap on all sides for expansion, is perfectly acceptable to use plywood when replacing
and cut the patch to size. Attach the patch to the rafters a section of the deck. The plywood should be the same
and nailing strips using 2½" deck screws or 8d ring-shank thickness as the boards, generally ¾".
siding nails.
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Underlayment TOOLS & MATERIALS
Chalkline Caulk gun
B uilding paper, also called felt paper or tar paper, is Hammer stapler 30# building paper
installed on roof decks as insurance in case leaks Flat pry bar Ice and water shield
develop in shingles or flashing. It’s sold in several
Utility knife Staples
weights, but heavier 30# paper is a good choice for use
under shingles and may be required by code. Tape measure Roofing cement
In cold climates, codes often require an additional
underlayment called “ice and water shield” or “ice
guard” that’s used instead of standard building paper A hammer stapler greatly speeds installation of
for the first one or two courses of underlayment and building paper. Watch for any loose nails missed
in valleys. In cold climates, apply as many courses of during the tear off and nail down any protruding
ice and water shield as it takes to cover 36 inches past staples. Avoid walking on building paper; it is slippery
the roof overhang. An adhesive membrane, the ice and can easily tear away from its staples. Some roofers
guard bonds with the roof sheathing and seals around opt to apply one course of building paper at a time,
nails to create a barrier against water backing up from applying four or five courses of shingles before rolling
ice dams. out the next course of building paper.
For optimum roof protection,
apply ice and water shield in
valleys, along the eaves, and
along the rake edges of the
roof. Apply 30# building paper
over the remainder of the roof.
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How to Install Underlayment
Snap a chalkline 355⁄8" up from the At valleys, roll building paper across
eaves, so the first course of the from both sides, overlapping the ends
36"-wide membrane will overhang the 2 by 36". Install building paper up to
eaves by 3⁄8". Install a course of ice the ridge—ruled side up—snapping
and water shield, using the chalkline horizontal lines every two or three rows
as a reference and peeling back the to check alignment. Overlap horizontal
protective backing as you unroll it. seams by 4", vertical seams by 12", and
hips and ridges by 6". Trim the courses
flush with the rake edges.
Measuring up from the eaves, make a
mark 32" above the top of the last row
of underlayment, and snap another
chalkline. Roll out the next course of
building paper (or ice guard, if required)
along the chalkline, overlapping the first
course by 4".
TIP: Drive staples every 6 to 12" along
1 the edges of building paper, and one 3
staple per sq. ft. in the field area.
4 5
Apply building paper up to an obstruction, then resume laying At the bottom of dormers and sidewalls, tuck the felt paper
the course on the opposite side (make sure to maintain the under the siding where it intersects with the roof. Carefully
line). Cut a patch that overlaps the felt paper by 12" on all pry up the siding and tuck at least 2" of paper under it. Also
sides. Make a crosshatch cutout for the obstruction. Position tuck the paper under counter flashing or siding on chimneys
the patch over the obstruction, staple it in place, then trim and skylights. Leave the siding or counter flashing unfastened
away the crosshatch flaps for a close fit. until after you install the step flashing.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Hammer Roofing nails
Tape measure Circular saw
Aviation snips 30# building paper
Drip Edge Drip edge Ice and water shield
D rip edge is a flashing that’s installed along the
eaves and rake edges of the roof to direct water
away from the roof decking. Although its job is to
paper has been attached to keep wind-driven rain
from getting under the paper.
Drip edge is always nailed directly to the roof
deflect water, it also gives the edges of the roof an decking, rather than to the fascia or rake boards. The
attractive finish. A corrosion-resistant material, drip nail heads are later covered by roofing materials.
edge won’t stain your roofing materials or fascia. There are two basic styles of drip edge. One is
The flashing is installed along the eaves before the the C-style drip edge that doesn’t have an overhang,
building paper is attached to allow water to run off and the other, much more common, type is the
the roof in the event it gets under the shingles. Drip extended-profile drip edge that has a hemmed
edge is installed at the rake edges after the building overhang along the edges.
Drip edge flashing prevents water from
working its way under the roofing
materials along the eaves and rake
Drip edge
edges of the roof.
Drip-edge molding is made of powder-
coated aluminum, generally sold in 10' Standard drip edge
lengths. Stock colors at most building
centers are white and dark brown. It
comes in several profiles, although only
the standard and channel types are
stocked consistently. Take care not to
confuse drip cap molding with edge-
drip cap, a similar product, also sold
in 10' lengths, that is installed above
windows and doors. C-style drip edge
110° drip edge Channel drip edge
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How to Install Drip Edge
Eave
1 2
Cut a 45° miter at one end of the drip edge using aviation Overlap pieces of drip edge by 2". Install drip edge along the
snips. Place the drip edge along the eaves end of the roof, eaves, ending with a mitered cut at the opposite end.
aligning the mitered end with the rake edge. Nail the drip
edge in place every 12".
Rake
3 4
Apply building paper, and ice guard if needed, to the roof, Cut a 45° miter in a piece of drip edge and install it along the
overhanging the eaves by 3⁄8" (see pages 42 to 43). rake edge, forming a miter joint with the drip edge along the
eaves. Overlap pieces by 2", making sure the higher piece is
on top at the overlap. Apply drip edge all the way to the peak.
Install drip edge along the other rake edges the same way.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Aviation snips Tape measure
Carpenter’s square Caulk gun
Chalkline Flashing
Flat pry bar
Shingles
Asphalt Shingles Roofer's hammer or
pneumatic nailer
Nail coils
Utility knife Roofing cement
2-in-1 roofing knife Roofing nails (7⁄8", 1¼")
I f you want to install asphalt shingles on your roof,
then you’re in good company. Asphalt shingles,
also known as composition shingles, are the roofing
Straightedge Rubber gasket nails
of choice for nearly four out of five homeowners in
America. They perform well in all types of climate tear strength, are consequently more flexible in cold
and are available in a multitude of colors, shapes, and climates, and are used more often in northern regions.
textures to complement every housing design. Although the roofing market has exploded with
They also are less expensive than most other innovative new asphalt shingle designs, such as
roofing products. the architectural or laminated shingle that offers a
Asphalt shingles are available as either fiberglass three-dimensional look, the standard three-tab asphalt
shingles or organic shingles. Both types are made with shingle is still the most common. The tabs provide an
asphalt, the difference being that one uses a fiberglass easy reference for aligning shingles for installation.
reinforcing mat, while the other uses a cellulose-fiber To help the job get done faster, rent an air
mat. Fiberglass shingles are lighter, thinner, and have compressor and pneumatic roofing gun. This will
a better fire rating. Organic shingles have a higher greatly reduce the time you spend nailing.
Stagger shingles for effective
protection against leaks. If the tab
slots are aligned in successive rows,
water forms channels, increasing
erosion of the mineral surface of
the shingles. Creating a 6" offset
between rows of shingles ensures
that the tab slots do not align.
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How to Install Three-Tab Shingles
1 2
Full tab
Half tab
Cover the roof with building paper (pages 42 to 43) and install Trim off one-half of an end tab on a shingle. Position the
drip edge (pages 44 to 45). Snap a chalkline onto the building shingle upside down, so the tabs are aligned with the
paper or ice guard 11½" up from the eaves edge, to mark the chalkline and the half-tab is flush against the rake edge.
alignment of the starter course. This will result in a ½" shingle Drive 7⁄8" roofing nails near each end, 1" down from each slot
overhang for standard shingles. between tabs. Butt a full upside-down shingle next to the
trimmed shingle, and nail it. Fill out the row, trimming the last
TIP: Use blue chalk rather than red. Red chalk will stain shingle flush with the opposite rake edge.
roofing materials.
3 4
First full course
Apply the first full course of shingles over the starter course Snap a chalkline from the eaves edge to the ridge to create
with the tabs pointing down. Begin at the rake edge where a vertical line to align the shingles. Choose an area with no
you began the starter row. Place the first shingle so it obstructions, as close as possible to the center of the roof.
overhangs the rake edge by 3⁄8" and the eaves edge by ½". The chalkline should pass through a slot or a shingle edge
Make sure the top of each shingle is flush with the top of the on the first full shingle course. Use a carpenter’s square to
starter course, following the chalkline. establish a line perpendicular to the eave edge. (continued)
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5 6
18"
12"
6"
5" reveal
Use the vertical reference line to establish a shingle pattern Fill in shingles in the second through fifth courses, working
with slots that are offset by 6" in succeeding courses. Tack upward from the second course and maintaining a consistent
down a shingle 6" to one side of the vertical line, 5" above the 5" reveal. Slide lower-course shingles under any upper-course
bottom edge of the first-course shingles to start the second shingles left partially nailed, and then nail them down.
row. Tack down shingles for the third and fourth courses 12"
and 18" from the vertical line. Butt the fifth course against TIP: Install roof jacks, if needed, to improve footing after
the line. filling out the fifth course.
7 8
Check the alignment of the shingles after each four-course When you reach obstructions, such as dormers, install a full
cycle. In several spots on the last installed course, measure course of shingles above them so you can retain your shingle
from the bottom edge of a shingle to the nearest felt offset pattern. On the unshingled side of the obstruction, snap
paper line. If you discover any misalignment, make minor another vertical reference line using the shingles above the
adjustments over the next few rows until it’s corrected. obstruction as a guide.
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9 10
Shingle upward from the eaves on the unshingled side of Trim off excess shingle material at the V in the valley flashing
the obstruction using the vertical line as a reference for using a utility knife and straightedge. Do not cut into the
re-establishing your shingle slot offset pattern. flashing. The edges will be trimmed back farther at a slight
taper after both roof decks are completely shingled.
11 12
Install shingles on adjoining roof decks, starting at the bottom Install shingles up to the vent pipe so the flashing rests on
edge, using the same offset alignment pattern shown in steps at least one row of shingles. Apply a heavy double bead of
1 to 6. Install shingles until courses overlap the center of the roofing cement along the edges of the flange.
valley flashing. Trim shingles at both sides of the valley when
finished. Trim shingles overhanging the rake, or trim each
with a utility knife and a speed square as you install it. (continued)
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13 14
Sleeve
Place a flashing boot over the vent pipe. Position the flashing Cut shingles to fit around the neck of the flashing so they lie
collar so the longer portion of the tapered neck slopes down flat against the flange. Do not drive roofing nails through the
the roof and the flange lies over the shingles at the base. Nail flashing. Instead, apply roofing cement to the back of shingles
the perimeter of the flange using rubber gasket nails. where they lie over the flashing.
15 Outline of shape for first 16
piece of step flashing
Base flashing
Spacer
Trim line
Waste section
Shingle up to an element that requires flashing so the top of Pry out the lowest courses of siding and any trim at the base of
the reveal areas are within 5" of the element. Install base the element. Insert spacers to prop the trim or siding away from
flashing using the old base flashing as a template. Bend a the work area. Apply roofing cement to the base flashing in the
piece of step flashing in half and set it next to the lowest area where the overlap with the step flashing will be formed.
corner of the element. Mark a trim line on the flashing, Tuck the trimmed piece of step flashing under the propped
following the vertical edge of the element. Cut the flashing area, and secure the flashing. Fasten the flashing with one
to fit. rubber gasket nail driven near the top and into the roof deck.
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17 18
Apply roofing cement to the top side of the first piece of step Tuck another piece of flashing under the trim or siding,
flashing where it will be covered by the next shingle course. overlapping the first piece of flashing at least 2". Set the
Install the shingle by pressing it firmly into the roofing cement. flashing into roofing cement applied on the top of the shingle.
Do not nail through the flashing underneath. Nail the shingle in place without driving nails through the
flashing. Install flashing up to the top of the element the same
way. Trim the last piece of flashing to fit the top corner of the
element. Reattach the siding and trim.
19 20
Counterflashing
Step flashing
Base flashing
Shingle up to the chimney base. Use the old base flashing as Install step flashing and shingles, working up to the high side
a template to cut new flashing. Bend up the counter flashing. of the chimney. Fasten flashing to the chimney with roofing
Apply roofing cement to the base of the chimney and the cement. Fold down the counter flashing as you go.
shingles just below the base. Press the base flashing into the
roofing cement and bend the flashing around the edges of the
chimney. Drive rubber gasket nails through the flashing flange
into the roof deck. (continued)
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21
Second course overlaps ridge
Top flashing
22 First course trimmed at ridge
Cut and install top flashing (also called a saddle) around the When you reach a hip or ridge, shingle up the first side until
high side of the chimney. Overlap the final piece of flashing the top of the uppermost reveal area is within 5" of the hip or
along each side. Attach the flashing with roofing cement ridge. Trim the shingles along the peak. Install shingles on the
applied to the deck and chimney and with rubber gasket nails opposite side of the hip or ridge. Overlap the peak no more
driven through the flashing base into the roof deck. Shingle than 5".
past the chimney using roofing cement (not nails) to attach
shingles over the flashing.
23
24
Cut three 12"-sq. cap shingles from each three-tab shingle. With Snap a chalkline 6" down from the ridge, parallel to the peak.
the back surface facing up, cut the shingles at the tab lines. Attach cap shingles, starting at one end of the ridge, aligned
Trim the top corners of each square with an angled cut, starting with the chalkline. Drive two 1¼" roofing nails per cap about
just below the seal strip to avoid overlaps in the reveal area. 1" from each edge, just below the seal strip.
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25
Closure cap
26
Following the chalkline, install cap shingles halfway along the Shingle the hips in the same manner using a chalk reference
ridge, creating a 5" reveal for each cap. Then, starting at the line and cap shingles. Start at the bottom of each hip and
opposite end, install caps over the other half of the ridge to work to the peak. Where hips join with roof ridges, install a
meet the first run in the center. Cut a 5"-wide section from the custom shingle cut from the center of a cap shingle. Set the
reveal area of a shingle tab, and use it as a “closure cap” to cap at the end of the ridge and bend the corners so they fit
cover the joint where the caps meet. over the hips. Secure each corner with a roofing nail, and
cover the nail heads with roofing cement.
27
Mark and trim the shingles at the rake
After all shingles are installed, trim them at the valleys to
edges of the roof. Snap a chalkline 3⁄8"
create a gap that’s 3" wide at the top and widens at a rate
from the edge to make an overhang,
of 1⁄8" per foot as it moves downward. Use a utility knife and
then trim the shingles using a utility
straightedge to cut the shingles, making sure not to cut
knife or an old pair of scissors.
through the valley flashing. At the valleys, seal the undersides
and edges of shingles with roofing cement. Also cover 28
exposed nail heads with roofing cement.
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Ridge Vents
F or efficient attic ventilation, installing a
continuous ridge vent is a reliable solution. Since
they’re installed along the entire ridge of the roof,
they provide an even flow of air along the underside
of the roof decking. Combined with continuous Continuous ridge vents work in conjunction with the soffits
soffit vents, this is the most effective type of roof to allow airflow under the roof decking. Installed at the roof
ventilation system. peak and covered with cap shingles, ridge vents are less
Since the vents are installed along the ridge, conspicuous than other roof vents.
they don’t interrupt the field shingles, eliminating
any disruptions to the roof. Other vent types, such
as roof louvers and turbines, can distract from the TOOLS & MATERIALS
roof ’s aesthetics.
Installing one continuous ridge vent is quicker and Hammer Flat pry bar
easier than installing other types of vents that need to Circular saw Ridge vents
be placed in several locations across the roof. It also Tape measure 11⁄2" roofing nails
saves you from having to make numerous cuts in your Chalkline
finished roof, which can disturb surrounding shingles.
How to Install a Ridge Vent
1 2
Remove the ridge caps using a flat pry bar. Measure down Set the blade depth of a circular saw to cut the sheathing but
from the peak the width of the manufacturer’s recommended not the rafters. Cut along each chalkline, staying 12" from the
opening, and mark each end of the roof. Snap a chalkline edges of the roof. Remove the cut sheathing using a pry bar.
between the marks. Repeat for the other side of the peak. If you have a long ridge, spare your saw blade by first cutting
Remove any nails in your path. away the roofing with a utility knife.
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Measure down from the peak
half the width of the ridge vent,
and make a mark on both ends
of the roof. Snap a line between
the marks. Do this on both sides
of the peak.
4
Center the ridge vent over the peak, aligning the edges with
the chalklines. Install using roofing nails that are long enough
to penetrate the roof sheathing.
3 TIP: If a chimney extends through the peak, leave 12" of
sheathing around the chimney.
5 6
Butt sections of ridge vents together and nail the ends. Install Place ridge cap shingles over the ridge vents. Nail them with
vents across the entire peak, including the 12" sections at two 1½" roofing nails per cap. Overlap the caps as you would
each end of the roof that were not cut away. on a normal ridge. If the caps you removed in step 1 are still
in good shape, you can reuse them. Otherwise, use new ones.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Roofer’s hatchet
Tape measure
Cedar Shakes Utility knife
Stapler
Chalkline
C edar shakes (which are thick and rough) and shingles (which are
tapered and smooth) are installed in much the same way, with
one major difference. Shakes have felt paper installed between each
Circular saw
Jigsaw
course, while shingles do not. Shingles are often applied over open Caulk gun
sheathing, while shakes are installed over open or solid sheathing. Air Shakes
circulation under shakes and shingles can increase their life span. Check Flashing
your local building codes to see what type of sheathing is recommended
for your area. Nails
The gaps between shakes and shingles, called joints, are specified 30# building paper
by the manufacturer. You can determine how much of the material Mason’s string
to leave exposed below the overlap, as long as it falls within the Roofing cement
manufacturer’s guidelines.
Cedar shakes are an attractive choice that has lately fallen out of favor because of high cost and maintenance challenges.
Added to their premium price is a boost in insurance costs because in some regions they are considered a fire hazard.
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Cedar Shakes & Shingles
C
A
E
B
F
D
G
I
H
Wood shakes and shingles are available in different grades. Some of the more popular include resawn shake (A), No. 1
hand-split medium shake (B), standard-grade shake (C), taper-sawn shake (D), No. 1 heavy shake (E), pressure-treated
medium shake (F), No. 2 shingle (G), undercoursing shingle (H), No. 1 shingle (I).
Underlayment for Cedar Shakes & Shingles
1 × 6 nailing strip
2 × 4 on flat
Shingle exposure
Spaced sheathing is common, and sometimes required, for To install spacer strips over solid sheathing, place 2 × 4s
cedar shakes and shingles. Solid sheathing is installed along flat over each rafter and nail them to the roof. Nail 1 × 4 or
the eaves and rake ends, and open-spaced wood strips are 1 × 6 nailing strips across the 2 × 4s. Keep the strips together
installed in the field to allow for air circulation. along the eaves, then space them at a distance equal to the
exposure rate in the field.
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How to Install Cedar Shakes
1 2
Prepare the roof decking by installing valley flashing at all Install a starter shake so it overhangs the eaves and rake
valleys (page 99). Apply building paper underlayment to the edge by 1½". Do the same on the opposite side of the
first 36" of the roof deck. roof. Run a taut string between the bottom edges of the
two shakes. Install the remaining shakes in the starter row,
NOTE: Depending on your climate and building codes, you aligning the bottoms with the string. Keep the manufacturer’s
may need to install ice and water shield for this step rather recommended distance between shakes, usually 3⁄8 to 5⁄8".
than felt paper.
3 4
Set the first course of shakes over the starter row, aligning Snap a chalkline over the first course of shakes at the
the shakes along the rake ends and bottoms. Joints between exposure line. Snap a second line at a distance that’s twice
shakes must overlap by at least 1½". Drive two nails in each the exposure rate. Staple an 18"-wide strip of felt paper at the
shake, ¾ to 1" from the edges, and 1½ to 2" above the second line. Overlap felt paper vertical seams by 4". Install the
exposure line. Use the hatchet to split shakes to fit. second course of shakes at the exposure line, offsetting joints
by 1½" minimum. Install remaining courses the same way.
TIP: Set the gauge on your roofer’s hatchet to the exposure
rate. You can then use the hatchet as a quick reference for
checking the exposure.
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5 6
Set shakes in place along valleys, but don’t nail them. Hold a Use the 1 × 4 to align the edge of the shakes along the valley.
1 × 4 against the center of the valley flashing without nailing Keep the 1 × 4 butted against the valley center, and place the
it. Place it over the shakes to use as a guide for marking edge of the shake along the edge of the board. Avoid nailing
the angle of the valley. Cut the shakes using a circular saw, through the valley flashing when installing the shakes.
then install.
7 8
Notch shakes to fit around a plumbing stack using a jigsaw, then Overlap the exposed flashing with the next row of shakes. Cut
install a course of shakes below the stack. Apply roofing cement notches in the shakes to fit around the stack, keeping a 1"
to the underside of the stack flashing, then place it over the gap between the stack and shakes.
stack and over the shakes. Nail the flashing along the edges. (continued)
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9 10
Flashing
Install shakes under the bottom apron flashing beneath a Interweave skylight flashing along the skylight with rows of
skylight. Cut the shakes as necessary. Nail the shakes without shakes. After each row of shakes, install a piece of flashing
driving nails through the flashing. Apply roofing cement to the with the vertical plane placed under the edge lip of the
underside of the flashing, then press to the shakes. skylight and the horizontal plane flush with the bottom edge of
the shake. A row of shakes covers the top apron flashing.
11 12
Apply roofing cement along the underside of the roof louver As you approach the ridge, measure from the last installed
flange, then set it over the vent cutout and over the shakes row to the peak. Do this on each side of the roof. If the
directly below it. Nail the louver in place. Install shakes over measurements are not equal, slightly adjust the exposure rate
the sides and back of the louver, trimming to fit as needed. in successive rows until the measurements are the same.
Make sure you’re measuring to points that are aligned at the
peak. The top of the sheathing is probably not level across the
roof and cannot be a reference point.
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13 14
Run shakes past the roof peak. Snap a chalkline across the Cut 8" strips of felt paper and staple them over the hips and
shakes at the ridge. Set the circular saw blade to the depth of ridge. Set a factory-made hip and ridge cap at one end of
the shakes, then cut along the chalkline. the ridge, aligned with the roof peak. Do the same at the other
end of the roof. Snap a chalkline between the outside edges
of the caps.
Exposure rate
15
Set a ridge cap along the chalkline flush with the edge of the
roof to serve as the starter. Install with two nails. Place a cap VARIATION: If the ridge caps are not preassembled by the
directly on top of the starter cap, and nail in place. Install manufacturer, install the first cap along the chalkline, then
caps along the remainder of the ridge, alternating the overlap place the second cap over the edge of the first. Alternate
pattern. The exposure rate should be the same as the roof the overlap pattern across the ridge.
shakes. Nails should penetrate the roof decking by ½".
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Roll Roofing TOOLS & MATERIALS
Utility knife Roll roofing
Tape measure Galvanized roofing nails
R oll roofing is a quick and easy roofing product
to install. In the most simple installation, the
material is rolled across the roof, nailed along the
Chalkline Asphalt-based roofing
Serrated trowel cement
edges, and sealed with roofing cement. It’s geared for
Straightedge Weighted roller
roofs with slight slopes, such as porches and garages.
Some manufacturers recommend using a roof Hammer
primer prior to installing the roofing. Read and follow
manufacturer’s directions. Your roof decking must
be completely clean before the roll roofing can be on sloped roofs. The concealed nail application
applied. Any debris, even a small twig or leaf, can end is best for roofs with a slighter pitch all the way
up showing through the roofing. down to a 1-in-12 slope, because it prevents water
Store the roofing in a warm, dry location until from penetrating under the nail heads. The double
you’re ready to start the project, and choose a warm coverage method is used for roofs that are almost
day for the installation. Roll roofing is best installed in completely flat. The double coverage, using fully
temperatures above 45°F. If applied in cold weather, bonded selvedge roofing, offers better protection
the material can crack. against water infiltration. The last method is self-
The following pages show the four methods for adhesive roll roofing. Self-adhesive roll roofing is
installing roll roofing. The perimeter bond application installed in much the same way as double coverage
is the fastest installation method and can be used bonded roll roofing.
Roll roofing is used on roofs that
have a slight slope. Installation is fast
and straightforward, with the material
rolled over a clean roof decking.
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How to Install Roll Roofing in a Perimeter Bond
1 2
Nail drip edge along the eaves and rake ends of the roof Snap a chalkline 35½" up from the eaves. Unroll the roofing
(pages 44 to 45). Sweep the roof decking clean. Center an along the chalkline, overhanging the eaves and rake edges by
18"-wide strip of roll roofing over the valley. Nail one side ¾" ½". Nail the roofing every 3" along the sides and bottom, ¾"
from the edge, every 6". Press the roofing firmly into the valley from the edge of the decking. Roofing nails should be long
center, then nail the other side. Install a 36" strip over the enough to penetrate the roof decking by at least ¾".
valley the same way.
3 4
Where more than one roll is needed to complete a course, Apply 2" of roofing cement along the top edge of the installed
apply roofing cement along the edge of the installed piece course. Install the second row flush with the line on the
using a trowel. Place a new roll 6" over the first piece. Press roofing, overlapping the cement edge. Drive nails every 3"
the seam together and drive nails every 3" along the end lap. along the rakes and overlap, ¾" from the edges. Do the same
for remaining rows, offsetting seams at least 18".
TIP: Make sure the roofing is straight before nailing. Once
it’s nailed, you can’t adjust it without creating wrinkles and
folds. If it’s running crooked, cut it and start with a new strip. (continued)
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5 6
Cut roofing 1" from the valley center using a utility knife and Install roofing in front of a vent pipe. Cut a square of roofing
straightedge. Be careful not to cut into the valley roofing. to fit over the pipe, with a hole in the center. Apply roofing
Apply a 6"-wide strip of roofing cement on the valley at the cement around the edges of the square, then set it in place
overlap. Place the main roofing over the cement. Do not nail over the pipe. Overlap with the next row of roofing, notching
closer than 12 inches from the center of the valley. for the pipe as necessary.
7
Cut the roofing flush with the roof peak. Snap a line on each
side of the roof, 5½" from the peak. Apply 2" of cement above VARIATION: Rather than install a strip over the ridge,
each line. Place a 12"-wide strip of roofing over the peak, extend the roofing on one side of the roof 6" past the
flush with the chalklines. Drive nails every 3" along the seams, peak, overlapping the opposite side. Nail along the edge
¾" from the edges. to secure it to the decking. Do the same on the other
side, overlapping the installed roofing at the peak. Apply
TIP: Use modest amounts of roofing cement. Excess cement cement along the seam, and nail in place.
can cause the roofing to blister.
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How to Install Roll Roofing (Concealed Nail Application)
1 2 3
Cut 9"-wide strips of roofing. Nail them Nail the roofing along the top edge only, Set the next course in place so it
in place along the rakes and eaves. driving nails every 4", ¾" from the top overlaps the first row by 4". Nail along
Snap a chalkline 35½" up from the edge. Roll back the side and bottom the top edge. Lift the side and bottom
eaves. Place the first course of roofing edges. Apply cement along the outside edges, apply cement, then press
flush with the line. 2" of the strips installed in step 1. Set together to seal. Repeat this process for
the overlapping strip back in place, the remainder of the roof.
pressing firmly to seal.
How to Install Roll Roofing (Double Coverage Application)
1 2
Cut away the granular part of the roofing to create a starter Align the bottom edge of the second course with the top of
strip. Align the strip with the eaves, and drive nails along the granule edge of the first row. Nail every 12" along the
the top and bottom edge at 12" intervals. Place the first full nongranule edges. Flip the bottom part back, apply cement
course flush with the eaves. Nail the nongranule edges every along the sides and bottom of the nongranule area of the first
12". Roll back the bottom of the roofing and apply roofing course, then set the strip back in place. Install remaining
cement along the eaves and rake edges on the starter strips. courses the same way.
Set the roofing back in place, pressing it into the cement.
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How to Install Roll Roofing (Self-adhesive Application)
1 2
Although not necessarily required in Cut a piece of base roll in half lengthwise about 19½" (about half of the meter-wide
all applications, the best adhesion is roll) and align it on the base of the roof, allowing about a 2" overhang or whatever
achieved when the roof is coated with is required to turn down and cover the fascia. When the base roll is centered and
primer, and some self-adhering roll parallel to the roof, remove the backing and adhere it to the roof from the center
roofing products require it anyway. of the roll, smoothing out any bubbles or wrinkling as you work toward the outside
edges. Smooth the overhang onto the fascia.
3 4
For the next course, position the selvedge edge on the high Install subsequent courses by aligning
side of the roof to provide an overlap guideline and to ensure the base ply with the guideline from the
water flows over the side laps. Fold the sheet in half away previous course. Fold the lower half of
from the edge of the roof along its length, and remove the the sheet back onto itself once more,
backing from the lower half of the sheet. From the center of remove the backing, and work from the
the length, allow the sheet to roll onto the deck. Use a helper center, allowing the sheet to roll onto the
to maintain a straight line and sheet position, and hand-press deck. Smooth from the center outward.
the sheet to smooth out wrinkles and trapped air. Overlap Repeat the process with the top half
subsequent sheets in the same course by at least 6", and cut of the sheet. When the roof is covered,
any upper selvedge edges at 45° angles to avoid loose seams roll the surface with a weighted roller
and to provide a smooth transition (left). End laps in adjacent or push-broom. Use a helper to assist
courses should be offset by at least 36". getting the roller or broom to the roof.
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5 6
To install drip edge, coat the base with a thin layer of roofing To apply the cap sheet, roll it out to manageable lengths,
cement, and set the drip edge into it. To reinforce the edge to remembering that minimal seams is the goal. Allow the sheets
the base ply, install roofing nails 3" on center along a staggered to lie flat for 30 minutes, which lets the ends relax. On the low
course through the drip edge. Use a notched trowel to apply a point of the roof, align the sheet to lie flat and parallel atop the
1
⁄8" to 1⁄16" layer of roofing cement to the top of the metal prior to drip edge and eaves. In the same manner as the base sheet,
installing the cap sheet. Also apply a layer of primer and flashing fold the lower half of the sheet away from the edge of the roof,
cement where flanged metal termination and penetration remove the backing, and allow it to roll onto the roof. Repeat
flashings are needed, as well as a layer of roofing cement to the with the upper half of the sheet.
top of any metal flanges prior to installing the cap sheets.
7 8
To avoid blistering, apply a bead of roofing cement adhesive Complete overlapping end joints by applying a 1⁄8" to 1⁄16" layer
along the top edge of each cap sheet, and at any selvedge of roofing cement to the granular surface of the underside
edge T-joints. On roofs with slopes greater than 1-in-12, of the sheet using a notched trowel. Flashing of walls, roof
backnail in the selvedge edge area at 18" on center with roof terminations, and obstructions can also be accomplished with
nails or cap nails. When additional lengths of cap sheet are these materials. Nail off the flashing at the top and counter-
needed in the same course, allow a minimum of 6" of overlap, flash backwards. When the roof is completely covered, use a
and end-laps must be offset at least 36". weighted roller to smooth out any wrinkles or bubbling.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Measuring tape Liquid adhesive
Paint roller Seaming tape
Stiff-bristle push broom Primer
Utility knife Contact cement
EPDM Rubber Roofing J-roller or roller
seaming tool
Termination bars
(if applicable)
EPDM membrane Exterior screws
F or roof decks with minimal pitch, even rolled
asphalt roofing may not offer enough protection
against leaks. In these situations, ethylene propylene another by 3 inches. Make any necessary cutouts to
diene monomer (EPDM) rubber membrane roofing allow for roof protrusions and to allow the membrane
may be your best—or only—bet. EPDM roofing is easy sheets to lay flat and relax. If your roof abuts a vertical
to install with minimal tools by a do-it-yourselfer. wall, the membrane should extend up the wall
Unlike other membrane systems that must be applied 12 inches so it can be adhered to the wall and sealed
with a torch, EPDM adheres with liquid adhesive. It with a metal termination bar.
comes in 10 × 20- or 20 × 100-foot rolls so you can Adhering the membrane to the roof deck involves
plan your installation to minimize seams. applying liquid bonding adhesive onto the roof
Installing the membrane involves removing deck with the membrane rolled back, allowing it
the previous roofing material down to bare roof to partially cure, then pressing the membrane into
decking and any flashings around vent pipes or other place over the adhesive, and brushing it thoroughly to
protrusions. Make sure your roof deck material is clean, remove any air pockets. Once the membrane is fixed
dry, and in good repair. You may be able to overlay the in place, you seal the overlapping seams with strips of
deck with a layer of high-density fiberboard or 1-inch soft seaming tape and liquid primer, rolling the seams
isocyanurate insulation board to create a fresh, flat flat. Finish up the roof by trimming the membrane
deck surface if the previous surface isn’t sufficiently at the roof edges, installing the appropriate boot
flat or shows signs of minor deterioration. Avoid using flashings, and adding any termination bars that may
insulation products with a waterproofing layer or film. be required.
Glue will not penetrate properly into the insulation. Follow the EPDM manufacturer’s instructions
Once the deck is prepared, lay out the membrane carefully, particularly if they differ from the
sheets so they overlap the edges of the roof and one step-by-step process you see here.
EPDM roofing provides the best protection against leaks on low-pitched roofs. It’s an easy-to-install, DIY project. Most home
centers now carry rubber roofing in standard 10 × 20' sheets for less than $150. Some also will sell 10'-wide roofing by the
linear foot from a longer roll. When possible, buy a large enough sheet to cover the entire roof. This greatly decreases the
likelihood of leaks forming, because it eliminates the need to seam the roof covering.
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B
H
C
J
I
G
D
K
A
E
F
Rubber roof coverings require special adhesives and primers, as well as flashing and accessories, such as rubber pipe boots.
Shown here, from left to right, are pipe boots (A), EPDM adhesive and primer (B, C), hose clamp (D), insulation plates (E),
termination bars (F), exterior screws (G), caulk (H), seaming tape (I), EPDM membrane (J), and J-roller (K).
EPDM rubber membrane
High-density
fiberboard
Roof deck
Bonding adhesive
Insulation plate
Most rubber roofs are fully bonded to a substrate of insulation board, but they can also be bonded directly to a plywood roof deck
or even installed with a perimeter bond only. In some commercial applications they are installed with a layer of river rock on top
for ballast.
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How to Install an EPDM Rubber Roof
1
2
Prepare the roof deck for membrane roofing by removing Sweep the roof deck thoroughly, and spread out the
the old roofing material down to bare decking. Look closely membrane so it has a chance to relax. Make any cutouts in
for signs of deterioration. Replace deteriorated decking. the membrane that may be necessary to allow for vent pipes
For a smooth surface, cover the roof with a new layer of or other protrusions. Overlap the sheets by 3" and wipe them
high-density fiberboard (sold at roofing materials suppliers). down with the recommended cleaner to prepare the surfaces
Secure with fasteners recommended by the manufacturer for for adhesive.
this purpose—usually long screws with large insulation plates.
3
4
Apply the latex adhesive. Fold half of the first membrane sheet Use a stiff-bristle push broom to brush out any air pockets
over on itself to expose the roof deck, and roll a heavy coat that may be evident under the bonded half of the membrane.
of adhesive onto both the deck and membrane surfaces with Brush from the middle of the roof outward to the edges.
a medium-nap paint roller. However, do not apply adhesive Then fold the other unbonded half over, apply adhesive to
to the overlapped section of membrane. Once the adhesive the rubber and roof deck again, and adhere this half of the
begins to set (about 20 minutes in normal conditions), membrane to the roof. Apply all sections of membrane to the
carefully roll the folded rubber down into place. Avoid roof deck in this fashion, but do not apply adhesive within 3"
wrinkling the membrane. of the edges of any overlapping sections of rubber; these must
be accessible for applying seaming tape along the seams.
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5 6
Roll the top section of overlapping membrane back along Tape the seams. Use the recommended cleaning solvent
the seam area, and chalk a reference line 3" from the edge to clean both halves of the overlapping membrane in the
of the bottom membrane. This marks the area for applying tape areas, then apply seaming tape sticky side down to the
seaming tape. bottom membrane within the marked area. Press the tape
down firmly to ensure good adhesion to the membrane.
7 8
Fold the top membrane overlap back in If the roof meets a vertical wall, you may need to remove siding
place on the tape. Slowly pull off the tape’s so you can bond the membrane to wall sheathing. Use contact
paper backing with the membrane edges adhesive to apply the membrane 12" up the wall. Seal the edge
now overlapping. Press the overlapping with a metal termination bar fastened to the wall with exterior
edges down to create a tighter, smooth screws. Trim off overhanging membrane around the roof edges,
seam. Roll the seamed areas with a J-roller and flash it according to the manufacturer’s recommendations
or seam rolling tool to bond the seam (left). using rubber adhesive flashing and rubber boots.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Cordless drill/driver with hex
and Phillips bits
Snips, left-hand
Raised Seam Metal Roofing Snips, right-hand
Snips, aviation type
Nibbler
R aised seam metal roofing is an attractive, long-lasting material that
installs quickly and suits even the roughest climates. In addition
to the standing seam metal roofing shown in the following steps,
Chalkline
Caulk gun
Pop riveter
metal shingle and metal tile roofing materials are also available, and
manufacturers offer a wide variety of colors for all three options. Broad pliers (hand seamers)
Metal roofs are designed for fail-safe installation, as long as you follow Turn-up tool
the manufacturer’s instructions and use the proper components. In fact, Markers
you are less likely to make a mistake installing metal roofing than you
Scratch awl
are with asphalt shingles, especially with valley and flashing installation.
Some metal-working skills may be called for, but they are simple to learn. Utility knife
If local codes permit and your old roof is smooth and in good Mastic tape
condition, you can cover it with metal roofing without a tearoff. However, Tape measure
you must first check for structural damage, remove all moss and debris, Duckbill pliers
remove protruding nails, and nail down loose or cupped roofing. In
addition, remove all ridges, hips, and flashing, and cut back the roofing at Hammer
eaves and rakes until it is flush with fascia. Roofing nails
New types of standing seam roofing have snaplock panels that suit Eye protection
slopes as low as 3-in-12. Others, whose seams are fastened on site using a Gloves
simple tool, handle pitches as low as ½-in-12.
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How to Install Raised Seam Metal Roofing
1 2
Cut and fasten drip edge after you have installed the ice and Overlap drip edge at the gable so when the rake flashing is
water shield and felt for the roof. Follow manufacturer’s specs installed it also overlaps. To do this, cut away the lip of the
for the location of the fasteners, typically a few inches up flashing and score the bend line with an awl. Use duckbill
from the edge of the eave. At a valley, cut the drip edge so it pliers to grip the flashing at the score line and bend to make
overlaps the adjacent piece. an overlapping tab. Use a pop riveter to secure the overlap.
3 4
Prepare the valley flashing by laying it on the valley and using Position the valley flashing and push down so it is fully seated
a straight edge to mark a cut line along the eaves. Cut the in the valley. Check that its end extends past the eaves by 1".
flashing to create tabs that, once scored and bent, overlap the Along the edge of each side, tack or screw it in place every 6".
eaves flashing. (continued)
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4"
5 6
Apply two rows of butyl mastic tape to each side of the Use a helper to install the panels. The panels are durable
valley ridge, spacing them according to the manufacturer’s once installed, but can be bent and scratched during
recommendations. Typically, the roofing panels overlap the handling. While the panels are waiting to be installed, weight
flashing within a minimum of 4" of the ridge that runs down them down or secure them on the ground to keep them from
the middle of the valley flashing. blowing away.
Not all roofs are square,
so use a panel and
tape measure to mark 7
an alignment line ¼"
from the eave. Use
the “3-4-5 method”
to check for square:
Mark a point 3' up
from the eaves and
another point 4' from
the panel. When the
panel is squared up to
the eaves, the distance
between the two points
is exactly 5'.
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8 9
Use a cordless drill driver with a socket to attach panels. Set Snap in the second panel. Metal panels install quickly, neatly
the panel so it overhangs the eaves as recommended. Follow locking in place with firm downward pressure. Begin locking
instructions for spacing the fasteners—every 12" on center is the panel in place at the eaves and work upward. Never lock
typical. Fasteners have flexible washers that must be snugged from both ends toward the center—you may create a bulge.
down firmly, but not too much.
10 11
Cut openings for vent stacks and other obstacles with a metal Trim the vent stack boot so it fits snug over the stack.
snips or a nibbler. To mark the panel, set it beside the stack, Neoprene boots are made with ridges that guide your cut. Dry
check that it extends over the eaves by 1", and use a square fit the boot, adjust as needed, then refit it and caulk around
to mark the upper and lower edges of the stack, adding ½" for the stack.
wiggle room. Then measure from the nearest fastened panel
so you can mark for the width of the stack. (continued)
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12 13
Caulk and fasten the base of the stack boot, positioning Cut panels lengthwise by using left- and right-hand snips
fasteners every 1–2". Double check that the caulk and boot in tandem. If you use a circular saw with a metal-cutting
seal along ridges in the panel. blade, add masking tape to the underside of the saw shoe to
preventing scratching. Wear ear and eye protection.
14 15
Use a guide to mark panels at the valley. First, rough cut and Close off the end of your rake flashing. Before cutting the
position panels so they overhang the eaves properly. Then flashing to length, cut tabs as shown and bend them so they
use a scrap of wood at least 4" wide as a marking guide. Cut overlap. Use pop rivets to fasten the tabs together. Trim the
the panel. completed closure as needed.
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Fasten the rake flashing using the
fastener and spacing recommended
by the manufacturer—typically
gasketed fasteners 24" on center. Apply
butyl mastic tape before positioning
and fastening.
16
17
Install side wall flashing after cutting tabs and bending them to close off the end.
Install any end wall flashing as well. In both cases, you may first need to remove a
course or two of siding in order to secure the flashing to the wall.
18 19
Install perforated zee closure top caps to the ridge to permit Close off the end of the ridge piece by cutting and bending
ventilation while preventing weather and pests from getting tabs. Caulk the overlap before pop riveting the closures. Install
in. Check manufacturer’s specs for positioning and caulking the piece with fasteners driven into the standing seams.
before fastening.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Tile bundle(s)
Chalkline
Faux Slate Extension ladder
Flashing
30# building paper
N o roofing materials are fun to work with, but faux (also called
artificial or simulated) slate comes close. It is easy on the hands,
cuts with a utility knife (though a power saw is faster), and nails easily.
Drip cap
Ice and water shield
The shingles feel reassuringly hefty and firm, a material you can well Pneumatic nailer
imagine living up to its 50- to 75-year warranty. It does not soften in Galvanized roofing nails
hot weather, easing summertime installation—a serious problem
Utility knife
with asphalt shingles. Unlike the real thing, faux slate is an ideal
do-it-yourself material as long as you abide by the manufacturer’s Straightedge
installation instructions. Circular saw
Although it is roughly twice as expensive as asphalt shingles, faux Carbide saw blade
slate’s good looks and longevity make it an increasingly popular choice, Sawhorse or workbench
especially for owners of vintage homes. Some manufacturers tout the
use of recycled materials; others emphasize “virgin” content unsullied Clamps
by variable quality of recycled raw materials. Some faux slate shingles Fall-arresting gear
feel stiff and very plastic-like, while others are noticeably more flexible Eye protection
like rubber. Whatever the material, faux slate looks very much like the Gloves
real thing.
MIX AND MATCH TO SUIT YOUR ROOF
Not all roofs are created
equal, nor will they match
exactly the amount of tiles
ordered. DaVinci, as we’ve
used here, and other brands
often are available in premixed
and blended bundles of
several different sizes. An
installation where cuts don’t
need to be made along rakes
or gable ends creates a
more authentic-looking roof.
When your measurement
comes within 18 to 24" from
a rake, you can get an exact
measurement and install a
combination of tiles that will fit
without cutting. You’ll reduce
your waste by an incredible
amount and also allow the
realistic look of the faux slate Faux tiles are available in premixed shapes and sizes to accommodate most roofs and
to remain intact. reduce waste.
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Faux slate looks just like the real thing but is easy to install and substantially less costly than slate. Made of polymer or recycled
tires, the shingles are molded to mimic the rough edges and deep shadowlines of natural slate.
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32"
Nail holes
25"
18"
3
⁄8" gap
between each shingle
31"
Nail holes
24"
18"
14"
7"
14"
3
⁄8" gap
between each 7"
shingle 6"
Faux slate shingles can be installed in straight coursing fashion (top) or with staggered coursing (bottom).
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How to Install Faux Slate Roofing
1
2
Prepare the roof by installing ice and water shield along the Install the 12"-wide starter shingles, overhanging the eaves drip
eaves and valleys. Cover the rest of the roof with 30# building cap by 1". Nail the shingles where indicated, typically 6" up
paper and install drip cap. With a chalkline, strike a mark so from the bottom and ¾" in from each edge. Use stainless steel,
your starter shingles will overhang the drip cap by 1". copper, or hot-dipped zinc 1½" roofing nails. Do not staple.
Space shingles 3⁄8" apart using a scrap of wood as a guide.
3
4
Begin the first course with any shingle except a 12"-wide Use the exposure alignment guides and nailing guides as you
shingle. This ensures that the gap between the starter begin the second course. Always check that 3⁄8" gaps are
shingles is overlapped 1½" or more. Nail the shingles where maintained and overlapped by at least 1½" by shingles.
indicated on the surface. (continued)
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5 6
As a quick guide, strike a chalkline for each course. It is easier Try to avoid cutting a shingle at the end of a course. Instead,
to spot while shingling, although it’s worthwhile to confirm you vary the gap from 3⁄16" to ½" as you near the gable rake to
are on track by occasionally checking the alignment guides finish a course without cutting. If a cut is necessary, use a
on the faux shingles. utility knife and a straight edge or a circular saw equipped
with a carbide-tipped blade, two teeth per inch.
7 8
To make a closed valley, install 28"-wide “W” flashing. Run Cut the shingles where marked. Also make a 45° cut at the
the courses to within a couple of shingles of the valley. upper corner nearest the valley center. This helps divert
Carefully measure so that a wide (10"- or 12"-) shingle will be toward the valley any water forced under the shingle.
trimmed for the valley. Mark a cut line just shy of the base of
the valley ridge. For an open valley, use “Double W” flashing
(see page 98 for different types of flashing).
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9 10
Nail valley shingles, maintaining the 3⁄8" gap from the next Cut starter triangles for hip ridges. After applying metal
shingle in the course. Nail no closer than 5" from the valley flashing to the ridge, apply the starter triangles. Nail 7" up
flashing ridge. from the bottom edge of the triangle and close to the outer
edge of the flashing.
11 12
Use 7" shingles to complete the hip, fastening with two nails Shingle the ridge using 7" slates over continuous ridge vent
per shingle. Begin by lining up the shingle edge with the eave. using a 6" exposure. Vary the exposure slightly if needed to
Use a 6" exposure. Some manufacturers offer preformed hip terminate the ridge with a shingle cut to 6".
and ridge shingles.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Hammer Ice and water shield Lime
Tape measure Nailers (2 × 6, 2 × 3, Tile
Chalkline 2 × 2) Bird stops
Circular saw ¾" roofing nails Plumbing vents
Tile Roofing Jigsaw
Trowel
Roofing nails
Sand
Air vents
Roofing sealant
Diamond saw blade Portland cement Peel-and-stick flashing
Premixed cement
M odern clay tiles use an Caulk gun Plastic cement
S-type design rather than mortar or Type M
30# felt paper
the two-piece system that was
once common. This simplifies
the installation process and
saves you time. Due to the
contour of the tiles, you’ll need
plumbing vents and air vents
that match the shape of the
roofing materials.
Before starting the project,
make sure your roof framing can
support the weight of the tiles.
The materials are very heavy, and
roofs designed for asphalt shingles
may not have the structural
support for clay tile. Check
Clay tiles give homes a truly impressive roof that can’t be imitated by other
with your building inspector if materials. The S design makes installation easier and less time-consuming. Each
you’re unsure. tile simply overlaps the preceding tile.
TIPS FOR INSTALLING A TILE ROOF
To cut clay tile, use a diamond blade in a circular saw or Mortar is available premixed, or you can mix it yourself.
grinder. Clamp the tile to a work surface, make your cutting This project requires cement mortar Type M. To mix it,
line on the tile, then cut along the line. Be sure to wear combine 3 parts portland cement, 1 part lime, and 2 parts
safety glasses and a respirator when making the cuts. sand. Add water and mix until the consistency is like
mashed potatoes.
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Clay tiles are beautiful, but be sure the roof framing is strong enough to support this heavier roofing material.
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How to Install a Tile Roof
1 2
2×2
nailer
2×3
nailer
Cover the roof with underlayment (pages 42 to 43). Install drip Install 2 × 2 nailers along the rake edges of the roof. Butt
edge (pages 44 to 45) and valley flashing (page 99). Nail 2 × 3 nailers against the 2 × 2s, and nail them in place.
2 × 6 lumber on the edge over all ridges and hips.
3 4
Measuring from the outside edge of the 2 × 3 nailer along the Place gable tile over the 2 × 2s along the rake ends of the
left rake edge, make marks on the roof every 12". Center a roof, overhanging the front of the roof by 3". Nail in place,
bird stop over each mark, aligned with the front edge of the using two ¾" roofing nails per tile. Overlap tiles by 3".
roof, and nail in place.
NOTE: Be sure to use left gable tiles for the left side and
NOTE: Bird stops are available from the tile manufacturer, or right gable tiles for the right side.
you can cut your own from wood.
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5
Install the next row
of tiles on the roof,
overlapping the first
course by 3". Install
remaining courses
the same way.
Avoid stepping on
or walking on tiles
as they break easily.
When you can no
Field tile longer reach new
tiles from below,
begin to work from
higher up the
Gable tile
roof. Work around
obstacles as you
encounter them,
as seen in the
remaining photos.
Starting on the left side of the roof, place the first field tile
over the gable tile and 2 × 3 nailer. Align the end of the field
tile with the end of the gable tile. Nail in place with two nails.
Install the first course of tiles the same way, placing them over
the bird stops.
TIP: To ensure alignment, tie a string across the end of the
first gable tiles. Set the tiles flush with the string. Move the 6
string to align subsequent rows.
Counter flashing
2 × 3 nailer
Pan flashing
7
At dormers, chimneys, and walls, install pan flashing at least
4" up the wall and a minimum of 6" along the roof. Turn up
the outside edge of the flashing 1½". Install counter flashing Install a 2 × 3 nailer along the turned-up
over the pan flashing. edge of the pan flashing. Set the tile over
the nailer and nail it in place.
NOTE: The top edge of the counter flashing must be
installed under the wall siding or placed in the mortar
8
between bricks in the chimney. The flashing may still be
present from the old roof. (continued)
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9 10
When the roofing abuts a wall of the house, install tile up Mark roof vent locations between rows of tiles and between
the roof to the wall. Apply mortar generously between the rafters. Follow manufacturer’s guidelines for the size of the
tops of the tiles and the wall, filling in any gaps. Place opening. Cut out the opening using a jigsaw or circular saw.
3 × 4 flashing over the mortar, then place counter flashing
over that. TIP: Periodically look at the roof from the street to make
sure the rows are running straight and the tiles look uniform.
11 12
Apply roofing sealant along the bottom of the primary roof Center ridge tiles over the hips and peak. Apply a small
vent, then install it over the opening using roofing nails amount of plastic cement on the nose of each ridge tile.
driven every 4" through the flange. Seal the flange with Overlap the tiles for a 16" exposure, placing the tile over the
peel-and-stick flashing. Place the secondary vent over the plastic cement on the previous tile. Nail the ridge tiles using
primary vent, and nail it to the roof. Overlap the lip with the two nails per tile. Fill the gaps beneath ridge tiles with mortar
next piece of tile. (inset photo).
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TILING AROUND A VENT
Place primary metal flashing over a plumbing vent, and nail Cover the back of the flashing with building paper. Install
in the corners. Install tile over the front of the flashing. tile over the flashing and vent. Apply sealant along the
underside of the secondary flashing, then place it over the
tiles and vent. Overlap the back edge of the flashing with
the next row of tiles.
Tile roofing is more expensive and labor-intensive to install, but few roofing materials offer a more stunning way to cover and
highlight your house. The curb appeal is undeniable when a tile roof is installed correctly.
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Inspecting & Repairing a Roof
A roof system is composed of several elements
that work together to provide three basic,
essential functions for your home: shelter, drainage,
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Tape measure Replacement flashing
and ventilation. The roof covering and flashing are
designed to shed water, directing it to gutters and Wire brush Replacement shingles
downspouts. Air intake and outtake vents keep fresh Aviation snips
air circulating below the roof sheathing, preventing Roofing cement
moisture and heat buildup. Trowel
Roofing nails
When your roof system develops problems that Flat pry bar
compromise its ability to protect your home— Plywood
Hammer
cracked shingles, incomplete ventilation, or damaged
flashing—the damage quickly spreads to other parts Utility knife Double-headed nails
of your house. Routine inspections are the best way to Caulk gun Rubber gasket nails
make sure the roof continues to do its job effectively.
Tips for Identifying Roofing Problems
Ice dams occur Inspect both the
when melting snow interior and the
refreezes near the exterior of the roof
eaves, causing ice to spot problems.
to back up under From inside the
the shingles, where attic, check the
it melts onto the rafters and sheathing
sheathing and seeps for signs of water
into the house. damage. Symptoms
will appear in the
form of streaking
or discoloration.
A moist or wet
area also signals
water damage.
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Common Roofing Problems
Wind, weather, and flying debris can damage shingles. Buckled and cupped shingles are usually caused by moisture
The areas along valleys and ridges tend to take the most beneath the shingles. Loosened areas create an entry point
weather-related abuse. Torn, loose, or cracked shingles are for moisture and leave shingles vulnerable to wind damage.
common in these areas.
A sagging ridge might be caused by the weight of too many Dirt and debris attract moisture and decay, which shorten a
roofing layers. It might also be the result of a more significant roof’s life. To protect shingles, carefully wash the roof once
problem, such as a rotting ridge board or insufficient support a year using a pressure washer. Pay particular attention to
for the ridge board. areas where moss and mildew may accumulate. Seasonal
application of moss killer is even more effective. Use only
powders intended for roofs; grass types will stain roofing.
In damp climates, it’s a good idea to nail a zinc strip along the Overhanging tree limbs drop debris and provide shade that
center ridge of a roof, under the ridge caps. Minute quantities encourages moss and mildew. To reduce chances of decay,
of zinc wash down the roof each time it rains, killing moss trim any limbs that overhang the roof.
and mildew.
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How to Locate & Evaluate Leaks
1 2
If you have an unfinished attic, examine the underside of Water that flows toward a wall can be temporarily diverted to
your roof with a flashlight on a rainy day. If you find wetness, minimize damage. Nail a small block of wood in the path of
discoloration, or other signs of moisture, trace the trail up to the water, and place a bucket underneath to catch the drip.
where the water is making its entrance. On a dry day, drive a nail through the underside of the roof
decking to mark the hole.
3 4
If the leak is finding its way to a finished ceiling, take steps Once you mark the source of a leak from inside, measure from
to minimize damage until the leak can be repaired. As soon that spot to a point that will be visible and identifiable from
as possible, reduce the accumulation of water behind a outside the house, such as a chimney, vent pipe, or the peak
ceiling by poking a small hole in the wallboard or plaster and of the roof. Get up on the roof and use that measurement to
draining the water. locate the leak.
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How to Make Emergency Repairs
Cover the damaged area by nailing strips of lath around the
edges of a plastic sheet or tarp.
1
2
If your roof is severely damaged, the primary goal is to prevent
additional damage until permanent repairs are made. Nail a
sheet of plywood to the roof to serve as emergency cover to
keep out the wind and water.
TIP: For temporary repairs, use double-headed nails, which
can be easily removed. Fill nail holes with roofing cement
when the repair is complete.
How to Make Spot Repairs with Roofing Cement
Glue down buckled shingles by cleaning
below the buckled area, filling the area
with roofing cement, then pressing
the shingle into the cement. Patch
cracks and splits in shingles with
roofing cement.
2
1
To reattach a loose shingle, wipe down
the felt paper and the underside of the
shingle. Let each dry, then apply a liberal
coat of roofing cement. Press the shingle
down to seat it in the bed of cement. 3
TIP: Heat softens the roof’s surface,
and cold makes it brittle. If needed, Check the joints around flashing, which
warm shingles slightly with a hair dryer are common places for roof leaks to
to make them easier to work with and occur. Seal any gaps by cleaning out
less likely to crack. and replacing any failed roofing cement.
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How to Replace Asphalt Shingles
2
1 3
Pull out damaged shingles, starting with Remove old nails in and above the Install the replacement shingles,
the uppermost shingle in the damaged repair area using a flat pry bar. beginning with the lowest shingle in
area. Be careful not to damage Patch damaged felt paper with the repair area. Nail above the tab slots
surrounding shingles that are still in roofing cement. using 7⁄8 or 1" roofing nails.
good condition.
4 5
Install all but the top shingle with nails, then apply roofing Slip the last shingle into place, under the overlapping shingle.
cement to the underside of the top shingle, above the Lift the shingles immediately above the repair area, and nail
seal line. the top replacement shingle.
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How to Replace Wood Shakes & Shingles
1 2
Split the damaged wood shingles or shakes with a wood chisel Remove the pieces. Slide a hacksaw blade under the
and mallet so they can be removed. overlapping shingles and cut the nail heads. Pry out the
remaining pieces of the shakes or shingles.
3 4
Gently pry up, but don’t remove, the shakes or shingles above Cut the shakes or shingles for the top course. Because the top
the repair area. Cut new pieces for the lowest course, leaving course can’t be nailed, use roofing cement to fasten the pieces
a 3⁄8" gap between pieces. Nail replacements in place with in place. Apply a coat of roofing cement where the shakes
ring-shank siding nails. Fill in all but the top course in the or shingles will sit, then slip them beneath the overlapping
repair area. pieces. Press down to seat them in the roofing cement.
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Flashing, Soffits,
Fascia, Gutters
& Vents
T his section is all about controlling what gets in
and what gets out around your roof. The purpose
of flashing is to ensure against water infiltration, and
it plays a crucial role in the integrity of any roof. Soffits
and vents route air around, into, and out of the space
under the roof, preventing moisture-related problems
and increasing the longevity of the structure.
Along with the gutters that carry water away from
the roof and house structure, and fascia that encloses
rafter-end spaces to block insect infestation and control
airflow, these structures all play a part in the success of
a roof. You can’t neglect any of them.
Fortunately, you won’t need sophisticated skills to
work on any of these elements in a roof. You just need
to follow the rather logical processes for installing,
maintaining, and—when necessary—repairing them.
You’ll find the basics of roof airflow and protecting
against water infiltration are all common sense.
In addition to mechanically supporting the roofing
itself, gutters, fascia, soffits, and vents also play an
aesthetic role. Don’t just opt for the cheapest or most
widely available option; give some thought to the
elements you choose and your entire roof will be as
handsome as the rest of your home.
In this chapter:
• Flashing
• Soffits & Vents
• Aluminum Soffits
• Aluminum Fascia
• Wood Soffits
• Repairing Wood Fascia & Soffits
• Gutters
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be prone to leaks. Some flashing, such as the valley
flashing shown on the opposite page, is installed
over the underlayment, prior to the installation of
the shingles. Other flashing, such as flashing for vent
pipes, is installed in conjunction with the shingles,
and is shown as part of the roofing sequences
throughout this book.
Flashing While most flashing is preformed, you’ll sometimes
need to bend your own. This is especially true for
flashing around roof elements, such as chimneys and
dormers, that often need to be custom fit. Building a
F lashing is a metal or rubber barrier used to protect
the seams around roof elements or between
adjoining roof surfaces. Metal flashings are made of
bending jig, as shown on the opposite page, allows you
to easily bend flashing to fit your needs.
When installing flashing around roof elements,
either galvanized steel, copper, or aluminum. Whatever the flashing should be secured to one surface only—
metal you choose, use nails made of the same material. usually the roof deck. Use only roofing cement to bond
Mixing metals can cause corrosion and discoloration. the flashing to the roof elements. The flashing must
Flashing’s primary job is to channel water off be able to flex as the roof element and the roof deck
the roof and away from seams. It’s installed in areas expand and contract. If the flashing is fastened to both
where shingles can’t be applied and would otherwise the roof deck and roof element, it will tear or loosen.
Flashing is a critical component of roofs that helps
keep the structure watertight. Most roofs have flashing
in the valleys and around dormers. This roof uses
several valley flashings as well as flashing around the
window and around the bump‑out in the roof.
Metal roof flashings come in numerous
profiles and shapes for specific
purposes. Common flashings include:
(A) roll flashing, also called handy
flashing, made from galvanized metal;
common widths range from 4" to 20";
B
(B) valley flashing (powder‑coated with
preformed W spine is shown); (C) drip H
cap molding installed above windows
and doors; (D) flexible step molding
for flashing around corners of vertical
objects; (E) step flashing; (F) bent step
flashing; (G) aluminum roll flashing; F
(H) copper roll flashing.
E
D A
C
G
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How to Bend Flashing
1 2
To bend flashing, make a bending jig by driving screws into Use the old flashing as a template for making replacement
a piece of wood, creating a space one‑half the width of the pieces. This is especially useful for reproducing complicated
flashing when measured from the edge of the board. Clamp flashing, such as saddle flashing for chimneys and dormers.
the bending jig to a work surface. Lay a piece of flashing flat
on the board, and bend it over the edge.
How to Install Valley Flashing
Spine
8" overlap
1 2
Starting at the eaves, set a piece of valley flashing into the Let the top edge of the flashing extend a few inches beyond
valley so the bottom of the V rests in the crease of the valley. the ridge. Bend the flashing over the ridge so it lies flat on the
Nail the flashing at 12" intervals along each side. Trim the end opposite side of the roof. If you’re installing preformed flashing,
of the flashing at the eaves so it’s flush with the drip edge at make a small cut in the spine for easier bending. Cover nail
each side. Working toward the top of the valley, add flashing heads with roofing cement (unless you’re using rubber gasket
pieces so they overlap by at least 8" until you reach the ridge. nails). Apply roofing cement along the side edges of the flashing.
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Soffits & Vents One strategy for increasing roof ventilation
is to add more of the existing types of vents. Or,
if you’re reroofing, consider replacing all of your
roof vents with a continuous ridge vent (pages
A n effective ventilation system equalizes
temperatures on both sides of the roof, which
helps keep your house cooler in the summer
54 to 55). You can increase intake ventilation
by adding more soffit vents. If you’re replacing
your soffits with aluminum soffits, install vented
and prevents ice dams along the roof eaves in soffit panels that allow air intake (pages 101
cold climates during the winter. to 105).
Determining
Ventilation Requirements
Measure attic floor space to determine how much ventilation
you need. You should have 1 sq. ft. each of intake and
outtake ventilation for every 300 sq. ft. of unheated attic
floor space.
Sufficient airflow
prevents heat Roof vent (outtake)
buildup in your attic,
and it helps protect
your roof from
damage caused by Insulation baffle
condensation or ice.
A typical ventilation
system has vents in Roof sheathing
the soffits to admit Unheated attic space
fresh air, which flows
upward beneath the Fascia
roof sheathing and Attic insulation blanket
exits through the (between ceiling joists) Vapor barrier
roof vents.
Rafter
Heated room space
Soffit
Soffit
vent
panel
(intake)
Air flow Shown cutaway for clarity
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Types of Vents
Soffit vents can be added to increase airflow into attics on Continuous soffit vents provide even airflow into attics. They
houses with a closed soffit system. are usually installed during new construction, but they can be
added as retrofits to unvented soffit panels.
Roof vents can be added near the ridge line when you need Vented soffit panels are used with aluminum soffits to allow
to increase outtake ventilation. Fixed roof vents are easy to airflow along the eaves.
install and have no mechanical parts that can break down.
Gable and dormer vents generally are installed to increase Continuous ridge vents create an even outtake airflow because
ventilation. The vents come in a variety of styles and colors to they span the entire ridge. Barely noticeable from the ground,
match the siding. ridge vents can be added at any time.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Flat pry bar T‑channel
Hammer F‑channel
Circular saw with (mounting channel)
fine‑tooth metal blade 1¼" aluminum trim nails
Aluminum Soffits (installed backward)
Drill
16d common nails
Nailing strips
Tape measure Drip edge
O lder soffits may be weathered or rotted and
may not allow adequate airflow. If more than
15 percent of your soffits need to be repaired, your
Aviation snips
Level
2¼" deck screws
8d box nails
Framing square Subfascia, if needed
best option is to replace them. This project shows
how to completely remove the old soffits and fascia Soffit panels (2 × 4, 1 × 8, or 2 × 8)
and install aluminum soffits, which are maintenance
free. If your old subfascia is in good condition, it will
not need to be replaced. soffits out of shape and prevent movement. Since the
The project starting on the opposite page details soffits will receive additional nailing when the fascia
the installation of soffits on an eaves system that is installed, you don’t need to drive a nail in every
has rafter lookouts. The soffits are installed directly V-groove in the soffits.
beneath these lookouts. If your eaves do not have To cut soffits, use a circular saw with a fine-tooth
rafter lookouts, follow the instructions starting on blade installed backward. Don’t cut all of your panels
page 104. This project also shows how to install soffits at the start of the job because the width will probably
around corners. change slightly as you move across the house.
For both eaves systems, an F-channel serves as a Use vented soffit panels to work in conjunction
mounting channel to hold the soffits in place along with roof or attic vents. This improves airflow
the house. You can also install the channel along the underneath the roof, which prevents moisture
subfascia, as shown in step 4 on page 103, or you can damage and ice dams. Provide 1 square foot of soffit
nail the soffits directly to the subfascia, as shown in vents for every 150 square feet of unheated attic space.
step 4 on page 105. Drive nail heads flush with the For a consistent appearance, make sure all of the fins
surface. Driving the nails too deep can knock the on the soffit vents are pointed in the same direction.
Support ledge for soffit panels
Cornice cover removed
Fascia cover
Soffit panel
Support channel for soffit panels
Install a new soffit system if your old system has failed, or if pests have infested the open eaves areas of your roof overhang. A
complete soffit system consists of fabricated fascia covers, soffit panels (nonventilated or ventilated), and support channels that
hold the panels at the sides of your house. Most soffit systems sold at building centers are made of aluminum.
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How to Install Aluminum Soffits (with Rafter Lookouts)
1 2
Remove trim, soffits, and fascia along the eaves using a flat Check the rafters and rafter lookouts for decay or damage.
pry bar. If the eaves contain debris, such as bird nests or Repair or replace them as needed.
rotted wood, clean them out.
3 4
Install new 1 × 8 or 2 × 8 subfascia over the rafters and rafter Install F‑channels for the soffit panels along the bottom inside
lookouts using 16d nails. Butt subfascia boards together at edge of the subfascia and along the outside wall of the house
rafter or rafter lookout locations. Install drip edge at the top of directly below the rafter lookouts. If more than one piece of
the subfascia. Leave a 1⁄16" gap between the drip edge and the channel is needed, butt pieces together.
subfascia for the fascia to fit. (continued)
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5 7
6
If the soffit panels will span more than Measure the distance between the Install soffit panels in the remaining
16", or if your house is subjected to mounting channels, subtract 1⁄8", and spaces, cutting them to fit as needed.
high winds, add nailing strips to provide cut soffits to size. Slide the soffit panels When finished, install the fascia (pages
additional support. in place, fitting the ends inside the 106 to 107).
mounting channels. Nail the panels to
the nailing strips, if you’ve installed them.
How to Install Aluminum Soffits (without Rafter Lookouts)
1 2
Remove the old soffits and fascia, following step 1 on page Start the F‑channel at a corner and align the bottom edge with
103. Place a level at the bottom of the subfascia board, level the chalkline. Nail the channel to the wall at stud locations
across to the house, and make a mark. Measure down from using 8d box nails. If more than one F‑channel is needed,
the mark a distance equal to the thickness of the soffits butt the pieces together.
(usually about ¼"). Do this on each end of the wall. Snap a
chalkline between the lower marks.
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T‑channel
3 4
F‑channel
At corners, cut a 2 × 4 to fit between the house and the inside Measure between the F‑channel and the outside edge of
corner of the subfascia to provide support for the T‑channel. the subfascia. Subtract ¼", and cut the soffits to size. For
Notch the 2 × 4 as needed, then nail in place so when the corners, miter the panels to fit the T‑channel. Install the first
T‑channel is installed, it will be aligned with the F‑channel. panel inside the channel. Make sure the panel is square to
Cut the T‑channel to fit. Place it against the 2 × 4, setting the the subfascia using a framing square. Nail the panel to the
back edge inside the F‑channel, and nail in place. subfascia at the V‑grooves. Slide the next panel against the
first, locking them together. Nail the panel in place. Install
remaining panels the same way.
Variations for Installing Aluminum Soffits
Straight corners are made by installing the T‑channel Inclined overhangs allow soffits to run the same angle as the
parallel with one of the F‑channels. Align the outside edge rafters. At the end of the rafter overhangs, measure from the
of the T‑channel with the outside edge of the installed bottom of the rafter to the bottom of the subfascia. Add the
F‑channel. Keep the T‑channel back ¼" from the outside thickness of the soffits, then measure down from the rafters
of the subfascia, and nail it in place. Install the soffits in along the wall and make a mark at this distance. Do this on
the channels. each end of the wall. Snap a chalkline between the marks.
Align the bottom of the F‑channel with the chalkline, nail the
channel to the wall, then install the soffits.
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Aluminum Fascia
F ascia fits under the drip edge and against the
subfascia to provide a smooth transition from
the roof to the eaves. You may need to temporarily
The fascia is installed over the subfascia to cover the exposed
remove any nails in the face of the drip edge so the edges of the soffits and enhance the appearance of your
fascia can slide in behind it. If your roof does not have home. The fascia is usually the same color and material as
drip edge, install a finish trim, such as undersill, at the your soffits.
top of the subfascia to receive the fascia.
If you’re also replacing your gutters, take down the
gutters first, then install the fascia. If you don’t want TOOLS & MATERIALS
to remove the gutters, you can slip the fascia behind
them while they’re in place. Hammer Chalkline
Fascia is nailed along the lip covering the soffits, Aviation snips Fascia
and the top is held in place by the drip edge, so it Tape measure Aluminum trim nails
doesn’t require any face nailing.
How to Install Aluminum Fascia
1 2
Remove the old fascia, if necessary. Measure from the top of Slide the cut edge of the fascia behind the drip edge. Place
the drip edge to the bottom of the soffits, and subtract ¼". the bottom lip over the soffits. Make sure the fascia is tight
Cut the fascia to this measurement by snapping a chalkline against the soffits and against the subfascia, then nail through
across the face and cutting with aviation snips. (This cut edge the lip into the subfascia. Nail approximately every 16" at a
will be covered by the drip edge.) V‑groove location in the soffits.
TIP: If your old fascia is wood and still in good shape, you
can install aluminum fascia over it without removing it.
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3 4
To overlap fascia panels, cut the ridge on the lip of the first At outside corners, cut the lip and top edge of the first panel
panel 1" from the end using aviation snips. Place the second 1" from the end. Place a piece of wood 1" from the end, and
panel over the first, overlapping the seam by 1". Nail the bend the panel to form a 90° angle. Install the panel at the
fascia in place. corner. Cut a 45° angle in the lip of the second panel. Align the
end of this panel with the corner, overlapping the first panel.
5 6
For inside corners, cut and bend the first panel back 1" from the Install soffit panels to close off the area between the fascia
end to make a tab. Install the panel. On the second panel, cut a cover and the exterior wall (see pages 102 to 109).
45° angle in the lip. Slide the panel over the first panel, butting
the end against the adjacent fascia. Nail the panel in place.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Hammer
Circular saw
Level
Chalkline
Wood Soffits Caulk gun
Paintbrush
Drill
W ood soffits are typically used on houses with wood or fiber-cement
siding and are painted the same color as the trim. To see how the
soffits fit in relation to the fascia and rafters, refer to the photo on page
Jigsaw
⁄8" plywood
3
102. You can use plywood or engineered wood for the soffits. Engineered 16d box nails
wood has the advantage of being treated to resist termites and fungus, and 6d corrosion‑resistant nails
it’s more resistant to warping and shrinking. Plywood has the advantage of 2 × 2 lumber
being less expensive. If your soffits are more than 24 inches wide, install a
Acrylic latex caulk
nailing strip between panels to hold the seams tightly together.
When replacing soffits, you may need to remove the top course of Vents
siding and any trim pieces under the old soffits before starting the new Primer
installation. Remove the pieces carefully, then reinstall them once the Paint
soffit job is finished.
Wood soffits cover the eaves area
between the fascia and siding. Painted
soffit moldings beneath the soffits give
the house a finished look. Soffit vents
installed at regular intervals play a vital
role in the home’s ventilation system.
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How to Install Wood Soffits
1
2 3
Hold a level against the bottom edge Align the bottom edge of 2 × 2 lumber Measure the distance from the wall to
of the subfascia to make a mark on with the chalkline. Nail the lumber to the outside of the subfascia, subtract
the wall. Do this on both ends of the wall studs using 16d nails. ¼", and rip the soffits to this width.
wall, then snap a chalkline between Apply primer to the soffits. If using wood
the marks. that’s already primed, apply primer to
the cut edges only.
5
4
Place the soffit against the 2 × 2 Mark the vent locations in the soffits
and subfascia, staying 1⁄8" from the by holding the vent in place and VARIATION: If the soffits have rafter
edges. Nail in place using 6d nails. tracing around it. Drill starter holes at lookouts, you don’t need to install
Install remaining soffits, keeping a 1⁄8" opposite corners of the outline, then 2 × 2s. Instead, nail the soffits
gap between panels. Caulk the gaps cut out the opening with a jigsaw. directly to the rafter headers and
between soffits and between the soffits Install the vent using the fasteners lookouts. Make sure soffit seams fall
and wall. Paint soffits as desired. Let that came with it. Do this at each midway across rafter lookouts.
the paint dry. vent location.
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Ledger board Rafter lookout
Rafter
Repairing Wood Fascia Cornice cover
Vent
& Soffits
F ascia and soffits add a finished look to your
roof and promote a healthy roof system. A
well-ventilated soffit system prevents moisture from
Soffit molding
Soffit panel
Fascia
building up under the roof and in the attic.
Most fascia and soffit problems can be corrected Fascia header
by cutting out sections of damaged material and
Fascia and soffits close off the eaves area beneath the roof
replacing them. Joints between fascia boards are lock
overhang. The fascia covers the ends of rafters and rafter
nailed at rafter locations, so you should remove whole lookouts and provides a surface for attaching gutters. Soffits
sections of fascia to make accurate bevel cuts for are protective panels that span the area between the fascia
patches. Soffits can often be left in place for repairs. and the side of the house.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Circular saw Hammer Caulk gun Nailing strips Galvanized deck
Jigsaw Flat pry bar Paintbrush Primer screws (2", 2½")
Drill Nail set Replacement Paint 4d galvanized
materials casing nails
Putty knife Chisel Acrylic caulk
How to Repair Wood Fascia
Rafter
Old New
1 2 3
Remove gutters, shingle moldings, and Set your circular saw for a 45° bevel, Set the patch board in place. Drill pilot
any other items mounted on the fascia. and cut off the damaged portion of the holes through both fascia boards into
Carefully pry off the damaged fascia fascia board. Reattach the undamaged the rafter. Drive nails in the holes to
board using a pry bar. Remove the original fascia to the rafters or rafter create a locknail joint (inset). Replace
entire board and all old nails. lookouts using 2" deck screws. shingle moldings and trim pieces using
Bevel‑cut a patch board to replace the 4d casing nails. Set the nail heads.
damaged section. Prime and paint the new board.
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How to Repair Wood Panel Soffits
1 2
Remove the damaged soffit section
using a pry bar. Cut nailing strips
In the area where soffits are damaged, remove the support
the same length as the exposed
moldings that hold the soffits in place along the fascia and
area of the rafters, and fasten them
exterior wall. Drill entry holes, then use a jigsaw to cut out the
to the rafters or rafter lookouts at the
damaged soffit area.
edges of the openings using 2½"
deck screws.
TIP: Cut soffits as close as possible to the rafters or rafter
lookouts. Finish cuts with an oscillating tool or a chisel,
if necessary.
4
3
Using soffit material similar to the original panel, cut a Attach the replacement panel to the nailing strips using 2"
replacement piece 1⁄8" smaller than the opening. If the new deck screws. If you are not going to paint the entire soffit after
panel will be vented, cut the vent openings. the repair, prime and paint the replacement piece before
installing it.
5 6
Reattach the soffit molding using 4d casing nails. Set the Using siliconized acrylic caulk, fill all nail holes, screw holes,
nail heads. and gaps. Smooth out the caulk with a putty knife until the
caulk is even with the surface. Prime and paint the soffit panels.
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Gutters TOOLS & MATERIALS
Chalkline Hacksaw Drain pipes Fittings
Tape measure 1¼" deck screws Connectors Hangers
Vinyl Gutters Drill Gutters
Installing a snap‑together vinyl gutter system Before you purchase new gutters, create a detailed
is a manageable task for most do‑it‑yourselfers. plan and cost estimate. Include all of the necessary
Snap‑together gutter systems are designed for ease parts, not just the gutter and drain pipe sections—they
of installation, requiring no fasteners other than the make up only part of the total system. Test‑fit the pieces
screws used to attach the gutter hangers to the fascia. on the ground before you begin the actual installation.
Left end cap Gutter hangers
Right end cap
Down- Inside corner
spout
outlet
Downspout elbows Connector
Outside corner
Drain Drain-pipe hangers
pipe Estimating Gutter Parts
• Gutter sections: Measure total length of run;
add 15% for waste. Sold in 10' lengths.
• Gutter hangers: One for every 2' of gutter.
• Inside/outside corners: One per corner with
no outlet.
• Connectors: Two per corner;
Swing-up elbow one per 10' of gutter.
• End caps (right or left): One per end.
Splash block • Downspout outlets: One for every 35' of gutter.
• Downspout elbows: Three per downspout.
• Drainpipe: One pipe per downspout outlet.
Splash block
Measure gutter height and add 5' for each pipe
outlet
(for splash block outlet and waste).
Sold in 10' lengths.
• Drainpipe hangers: Two per drainpipe.
Vinyl snap‑together gutter systems are easy to install and relatively inexpensive, and they won’t rot or deteriorate. The slip joints
allow for expansion and contraction, which contribute to their reliability and longevity.
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How to Install Vinyl Gutters
1 2
Mark a point at the high end of each gutter run, 1" from the top Install downspout outlets near the ends of gutter runs (at least
of the fascia. Snap chalklines that slope ¼" per 10' toward one outlet for every 35' of run). The tops of the outlets should
downspouts. For runs longer than 35', mark a slope from a be flush with the slope line, and they should align with end
high point in the center toward downspouts at each end. caps on the corners of the house.
3 4
Following the slope line, attach hangers or support clips for Following the slope line, attach outside and inside corners at
hangers for a complete run. Attach them to the fascia at 24" all corner locations that don’t have end caps.
intervals using deck screws. (continued)
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5 6
Use a hacksaw to cut gutter sections to fit between outlets and Working on the ground, join the gutter sections together using
corners. Attach the end caps and connect the gutter sections connectors. Attach gutter hangers to the gutter (for models
to the outlets. Cut and test‑fit gutter sections to fit between with support clips mounted on the fascia). Hang the gutters,
outlets, allowing for expansion gaps. connecting them to the outlets.
7 8
Cut a section of drainpipe to fit between two downspout Cut a piece of drainpipe to fit between the elbow at the top of
elbows. One elbow should fit over the tail of the downspout the wall and the end of the drainpipe run, staying at least 12"
outlet and the other should fit against the wall. Assemble the above the ground. Attach an elbow, and secure the pipe to the
parts, slip the top elbow onto the outlet, and secure the other wall with a drainpipe hanger. Add accessories, such as splash
to the siding with a drainpipe hanger. blocks, to help channel water away from the house (inset).
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Metal Gutters
Most home centers carry sections of aluminum or
galvanized steel gutter along with the components TOOLS & MATERIALS
necessary to install your own system. Gutter sections Tape measure Gutter sealant or
and downspouts are typically 10 feet long, though if
you order them online and have them shipped to your Drill with ¼" hex‑drive bit silicone caulk
home they’ll arrive in 5-foot sections. Assembly is Caulk gun Gutter outlets
easy. Pieces go together with self-tapping screws and Chalkline
sealant, though pop-rivets also prove handy. Downspouts
Installation is the hard part. You’ll be working at Hammer
End caps
heights with long components. While up there you’ll Tin snips
need to attach the gutter so it smoothly inclines Elbows
Hacksaw
toward the downspout at a slope of ¼ inch for every Downspout brackets
10 feet. Enlist a helper for installation or rig up a loop Gutters
of rope to hold one end of the gutter while you attach Zip screws End box
the hangers to the fascia. Typically, you can use your Hangers Speed square
old gutter setup as a guide for the new.
Gutter‑end with drop Hanger
Gutter
Joiner
Outside corner
End cap
Downspout bracket
Downspout
Sealed and fastened correctly, gutters made of components available at your home center will function as well as seamless
gutters fabricated on site by a contractor. The trick is getting the slope smooth and accurate.
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How to Install Metal Gutters
1 2
At the fascia’s midpoint, measure down from the drip edge Use tin snips to cut the gutter in three steps. After marking all
and make a mark for the bottom of the gutter. Mark both ends three sides, nip through the top front edge of the gutter, and
of the fascia, adding a ¼" slope for every 10' of gutter. Snap then work down through the profile. Next, cut the back of the
chalklines between the marks. gutter. Finally, let the gutter bend open as shown so you can
cut through the bottom.
3 4
Attach a prefabbed drop to your section of gutter. Apply Place an end cap over the end of the gutter. Drive zip screws
sealant, join the gutter section to the drop, and attach with zip through the flange into the gutter. Apply ample sealant along
screws or rivets, whichever the manufacturer recommends. the inside edges of the cap.
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6
5
Apply a small bead of sealant on the bottom and sides inside a Clip gutter hangers to the gutter every 24". Lift the gutter into
corner box. Slide the end of the gutter inside the box. Fasten place, sliding the back side under the drip edge and aligning
the gutter and box together using zip screws. Apply ample the bottom with the chalkline. Drive the nail or screw in each
sealant along the inside seam. hanger through the fascia to install.
8
7
Fasten an elbow to the gutter outlet, driving a zip screw
Fasten downspout brackets to the wall for the top
through each side. Hold another elbow in place against the
and bottom of the downspout and every 8' in
house. Measure the distance between the elbows, adding 2"
between. Cut a downspout that spans the length
at each end for overlap. Cut a downspout to this length using
of the wall, and attach it to the elbow at the top.
a hacksaw. Crimp the corners of the downspout for easy
Install another elbow at the end of the downspout.
insertion and fasten together.
Fasten the brackets to the downspout.
TIP: Assemble the elbows and downspout so the top pieces
always fit inside bottom pieces.
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How to Unclog Gutters
Check the slope of the gutters using
a level. Gutters should slope slightly
1 toward the downspouts. Adjust the 3
hangers, if necessary.
2
Flush clogged downspouts with water.
Wrap a large rag around a garden hose
and insert it in the downspout opening.
Arrange the rag so it fills the opening, Place gutter guards over the gutters to
then turn on the water full force. prevent future clogs.
How to Rehang Sagging Gutters & Patch Leaks
Reattach hangers every 24" and within
12" of seams. Use new hangers, if
1 necessary. Avoid using the original nail 3
holes. Fill small holes and seal minor
leaks using gutter caulk.
2
For sagging gutters, snap a chalkline
on the fascia that follows the correct
slope. Remove hangers in and near the
sag. Lift the gutter until it’s flush with
the chalkline. Use a gutter patching kit to make
temporary repairs to a gutter
TIP: A good slope for gutters is a ¼" with minor damage. Follow
drop every 10' toward the downspouts. manufacturer’s directions.
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How to Repair Leaky Joints
1 2
Drill out the rivets or unfasten the metal screws to disassemble Apply caulk to the joining parts, then reassemble the joint.
the leaky joint. Scrub both parts of the joint with a stiff‑bristle Secure the connection with pop rivets or sheet‑metal screws.
brush. Clean the damaged area with water, and allow to
dry completely.
How to Patch Metal Gutters
Apply a 1⁄8"‑thick layer of roofing cement
evenly over the damage. Spread the
1 roofing cement a few inches past the 3
damaged area on all sides.
2
Cut and bend a piece of flashing to fit
inside the gutter. Bed the patch in the
roofing cement. Feather out the cement
to reduce ridges so it won’t cause
significant damming.
Clean the area around the damage
with a stiff‑bristle brush. Scrub it with TIP: To prevent corrosion, make sure
steel wool or an abrasive pad to loosen the patch is the same type of metal
residue, then rinse it with water. as the gutter.
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How to Replace a Section of Metal Gutter
1 2 3
Remove gutter hangers in and near the Slip spacers between the gutter
damaged area. Insert wood spacers in the and fascia near each end of the
Cut a new gutter section
gutter near each hanger before prying. damaged area, so you won’t damage
at least 4" longer than
the roof when cutting the gutter. Cut out
the damaged section.
TIP: If the damaged area is more than the damaged section using a hacksaw.
2' long, replace the entire section with
new material.
4 5 6
Clean the cut ends of the old gutter Secure the gutter patch with pop rivets Reinstall gutter hangers. If necessary,
using a wire brush. Caulk the ends, or sheet‑metal screws. Use at least use new hangers, but don’t use old
then center the gutter patch over the three fasteners at each joint. On the holes. Prime and paint the patch to
cutout area and press into the caulk. inside surfaces of the gutter, caulk over match the existing gutter.
the heads of the fasteners.
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How to Replace Valley Flashing
Asphalt roofing is most prone to leaking where two roof planes meet—in
the valleys. Sometimes the metal valley flashing is corroded or poorly TOOLS & MATERIALS
nailed, producing a leak; or if your shingles are woven over one another Pry bar
in a valley, there may not be any underlying metal flashing at all. As soon
as the shingles start to deteriorate, a leak is bound to happen. It could Push broom
also be that your current metal flashing’s design is redirecting water back Hook‑bladed utility knife
under the shingles during heavy rains and creating leaks. Whatever the Measuring tape
case may be, you may need to replace the flashing or improve how it’s
Straightedge
installed. If the current shingles are in good condition, you can do this
project without replacing your entire roof. Hammer
The process for replacing valley flashing involves four main stages. Aviation snips
First, you’ll carefully remove the shingles in the valley area so they Metal seamer
can be reinstalled over the new flashing later. Second, self-adhesive
Chalkline
underlayment membrane is rolled onto the roof deck to provide a barrier
beneath the metal flashing. This step ensures that roofing felt isn’t your Self‑adhesive underlayment
roof ’s only line of defense if the metal leaks in the future. Third, you’ll membrane
install new W-style aluminum valley flashing, which will never corrode. Aluminum W‑style valley flashing
Finally, the original shingles are laced back into place over the flashing Roofing nails
and cut back to leave the flashing area partially exposed.
Before After
Damaged valley flashing can be patched for temporary leak stoppage, but you should replace it completely as soon as you can.
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How to Replace Damaged Valley Flashing
1 2
Carefully lift shingles in the valley area with a prybar to Pry off the old flashing and remove all nails. Sweep the
break their self‑seal strip, and pry the nails free. Shingles are valley area thoroughly, clearing off all of the debris on the
generally held in place with eight nails—four from the shingle roof deck. Inspect the roofing felt and decking surfaces. If
above and four above the tabs. Slide the shingles out and stack the felt is torn or the decking is deteriorated from moisture,
them in order so they’ll be easier to replace later. Remove replace it now. (For more on replacing sheathing, see pages
enough shingles to completely expose the valley flashing. 40 to 41.)
3 4
Roll out the self‑adhesive underlayment membrane from the Starting at the ridge, peel off the backing paper to expose the
ridge to the eave with the paper backing facing down. You adhesive and stick the membrane down on the roofing felt. You
can use granulated or bare membrane for this application. may find it helpful to tack the membrane at the ridge to anchor
Cut the membrane off the roll so it overlaps the eave it. Slip the membrane under any overhanging shingles as you
and ridge. proceed, and keep the membrane as flat and smooth as possible.
It must make full contact with the deck and not be gapped at the
base of the valley, or it could tear and breach the seal.
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5 6
Use a metal seamer to bend the flashing
overlaps down over the drip edge. Cut
Set the first piece of valley flashing in place so it overlaps the
tabs in the notched area of the flashing
eave. Use a straightedge to mark cutting lines on the flashing
and fold them over the raised ridge to
that match the angles of the roof decks. The goal here is to
close this gap.
cut the flashing about 1" longer than the end of the roof so
you can lap the flashing over the drip edge. It will prevent ice
dams from forming here in the winter.
Position the eave flashing carefully, and nail it
7 8
in place with 7⁄8" roofing nails spaced every 12"
up the flashing. Drive the nails within 1" of the
edge of the flashing only.
When the first strip of flashing is completely nailed, set the
second strip in place on the roof deck so it overlaps the first
by 1'. With assistance, stretch a chalkline from the eave to the
ridge to make sure both flashings form a straight line along the
center ridge. Make any adjustments to the fit, and proceed to
nail the second strip to the deck. Continue to install flashing
up to the ridge, and cut off the overhang with aviation snips.
(continued)
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9 10
Slip the shingles back into position along one edge of the Carefully lift the overlapping shingle edges, and nail the
flashing from eave to ridge. Renail the shingles to the roof shingles to the valley flashing within 1" of its edge.
deck using the same nailing pattern as you would when
installing them new.
11 12
With an assistant’s help, snap a chalkline from the ridge to the Trim off the overhanging portion of each shingle along the
eave to mark a trim line on the overlapping shingles. Position chalkline to complete the first side of the flashing detail. Then
this line so about 3" of the flashing next to the flashing ridge repeat the process of refitting, nailing, marking, and trimming
will be exposed at the roof ridge and about 6" will be exposed shingles on the other side of the flashing to finish the valley.
at the eave. The wider exposure of flashing at the bottom Slip a scrap of wood behind the shingles to protect the
will help handle the greater volume of water here without flashing when trimming the shingles.
overflowing the flashing.
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How to Replace Step Flashing
1 2
Cut the new flashing to fit, and apply
Carefully bend up the counter flashing or the siding covering
roofing cement to all unexposed
the damaged flashing. Cut any roofing cement seals, and
edges. Slip the flashing in place,
pull back the shingles. Use a flat pry bar to remove the
making sure it’s overlapped by the
damaged flashing.
flashing above and overlaps
the flashing and shingle below.
TIP: When replacing flashing around masonry, such as a
chimney, use copper or galvanized steel. Lime from mortar
can corrode aluminum.
3
4
Drive one roofing nail through the flashing, at the bottom Reposition the shingles and counter flashing, and seal all joints
corner, and into the roof deck. Do not fasten the flashing to with roofing cement.
the vertical roof element, such as a chimney.
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Resources
Alside DaVinci Roofscapes MCA Clay Roof Tile
800‑922‑6009 800‑328‑4624 800‑736‑6221
www.alside.com www.davinciroofscapes.com www.mca‑tile.com
American Building Components Eagle Roofing Products National Roofing Contractors Association
800‑877‑8709 888‑TILE‑ROOF www.nrca.net
www.abcmetalroofing.com (888‑8453‑7663) Ply Gem
www.eagleroofing.com
Black+Decker 888‑975‑9436
www.blackanddecker.com GAF Materials Corporation www.plygem.com
www.gaf.com
Boral Roofing Rooflite
800‑669‑8453 GenTite 610‑268‑0017
www.boralamerica.com/roofing 877‑436‑8483 www.rooflitesoil.com
www.gentite.com
Brava Roof Tile The Tapco Group
844‑290‑4196 Interlock Lifetime Roofing Systems 800‑521‑7567
www.bravarooftile.com 866‑733‑5811 www.thetapcogroup.com
www.interlockroofing.com
CertainTeed
800‑782‑8777
www.certainteed.com
Photo Credits
Alcoa Home Exteriors, Inc. DaVinci Roofscapes Interlock
page 16 pages 13 (bottom), 79 page 23 (top, both)
Alside Dreamstime.com Rooflite
pages 44, 46, 106 (top) page 56 page 25
Boral Roofing Company GAF Materials, Corp. Scot Zimmerman
pages 13 (top), 21 pages 8, 12, 19, 42, 62 page 108 (lower right)
CertainTeed, Corp. Gentite US Tile
pages 10, 22, 26 (lower right) pages 18, 68 pages 20, 85, 89
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Index
adhesive bonding, 69 costs diagram of, 34–35
air compressor, 36 comparison of, 12 drip edge, 43–44
air guns, 29 estimating, 12 installing valley, 99
aluminum fascia, 106–107 counter flashing, 35, 51, 87 loose, 11
aluminum roll flashing, 98 cutting clay tile, 84 metal roofing and, 73, 76–77
aluminum roofing nails, 37 removing, 39
aluminum soffits, 102–105 dormer vents, 101 replacing, 121–125
apron flashing, 60 double coverage application for roll shingle installation and, 49–52
architectural shingles, 12, 15, 16 roofing, 65 tile roofing and, 88–89
asphalt roll roofing, 17 drip cap molding, 98 types of, 37
asphalt shingles drip edge, 37, 44–45, 73 flat pry bar, 36
about, 46 drip‑edge molding, 44 flexible step molding, 98
installing, 47–53 dumpsters, 38 fly hooks, 30
replacing, 94 durability, 13 framing square, 36
asphalt three‑tab shingles, 14, 47–53
aviation snips, 37 emergency repairs, 93 gable vents, 101
environmentally friendly roofs, 24–25 galvanized roofing nails, 37
base flashing, 35, 51 EPDM adhesive and primer, 69 GFCI extension cords, 29
bending flashing, 99 EPDM membrane, 69 gutters
bent step flashing, 98 EPDM rubber roofing, 18, 68–71 about, 97
body harness, 31 estimating roofing, 26–27 diagram of, 35
bonding adhesive, 69 estimating time requirements, 27 metal, 115–117, 119–120
building paper, 37, 42 evaluating needs, 10 parts of, 112, 115
butyl mastic tape, 74 extension ladders, 29–30 patching leaks in, 118–119
exterior screws, 69 patching metal, 119
caulk and caulk gun, 36, 69 rehanging sagging, 118
cedar shakes, 56–61, 95 fall‑arresting gear, 31 replacing section of, 120
ceiling stains, 11 fascia, 34, 97, 100, 106–107, 110 unclogging, 118
chalkline, 36 fascia headers, 110 vinyl, 112–114
chimney cap, 35 fasteners, 37
clay tile, 20, 84–89 faux slate, 78–83 hammer stapler, 36
concealed nail application for roll felt paper, 42 handy flashing, 98
roofing, 65 fiber cement, 21 high‑density fiberboard, 69
concrete tile, 21 flashing hip ridges, 83
continuous ridge vents, 54, 101 about, 97, 98 hose clamps, 69
continuous soffit vents, 101 apron, 60
conversion chart, for slope, 26 base, 35, 51 ice and water shield, 37, 42
copper roll flashing, 98 bending, 99 ice dams, 90
cordless drill/driver, 36 bent step, 98 inspecting and repairing roofs, 90–95
cornice covers, 110 counter, 35, 51, 87 insulation baffles, 100
corrugated nonmetallic panels, 23 damaged or deteriorated, 11 insulation plates, 69
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J‑roller, 69 ridge tiles, 88 slope
ridge vents, 54, 101 calculating, 27
ladder jacks, 30 robe‑grab mechanism, 31 conversion chart for, 26
ladders, 28–30 roll flashing, 98 measuring, 27
lanyard, 31 roll roofing, 62–67 soffit molding, 110
leaks, locating and evaluating, 92 rolled flashing, 37 soffit panels, 35, 100, 101, 110
ledger boards, 110 roof jacks, 33, 36 soffit vents, 34–35, 100, 101
lifeline, 31 roof pitch, 13 soffits
lifting shingles, 32 roof sheathing, 100 about, 97, 100
living roofs, 25 roof systems, 34–35 aluminum, 102–105
lumbar support brace, 32 roof vents, 34, 88–89, 100, 101 diagram of, 34
roofing repairing wood, 111
materials about, 9 wood, 108–109, 111
choosing, 10, 12–25 calculating area of, 26 speed square, 36
color of, 10 choosing, 12–25 spot repairs, 93
description of, 36 common problems with, 91 staging shingles, 32
measuring and planning, 27 estimating, 26–27 stakes, for ladders, 30
mechanical rope grab, 31 evaluating needs for, 10 standing‑seam metal roofs, 22
metal ridge anchor, 31 identifying problems with, 11, 90 step flashing, 37, 51, 98, 125
metal roofing, 22–23, 72–77 roofing cement, 37, 93 straight edge, 36
metal shingles, 23 roofing hammer, 36
mortar, 84 roofing ladder, 36 tape measure, 36
roofing nail coil, 37 tar paper, 42
nailers, 36, 86 roofing shovel, 36 tear off, completing, 38–39
nails, 37 rubber gasket nails, 37 termination bars, 69
rubber membrane roofing, 18 tile roofing, 84–89
performed valley flashing, 37 rubber pipe boots, 69 time requirements, estimating, 27
perimeter bond, roll roofing in, 63–64 tools and materials, 36
photovoltaic shingles, 25 safety, 9, 28–33
pipe boots, 69 seaming tape, 69 underlayment, 42–43, 86
pneumatic nailer, 36 self‑adhesive application for roll roofing, utility knife, 36
power cables, 29 66–67
problems, identifying, 11 shadow‑line shingles, 15 valley flashing, 35, 37, 73, 98, 99,
sheathing, replacing, 40–41 121–124
rafter lookouts, 103–104, 110 shingles vent pipe flashing, 37, 49–50
raised seam metal roofing, 72–77 about, 49–53 vent pipes, 64
rake edge, 34, 86 architectural, 12, 15, 16 vent stack boot, 75–76
rake flashing, 76–77 asphalt three‑tab, 14 vented soffit panels, 101
repairing wood fascia and soffits, 110–111 asphalt types, 15 vents
repairs damaged or deteriorated, 91 about, 97, 100
emergency, 93 identifying problems with, 11 diagram of, 34
spot, 93 installing, 49–53 types of, 101
ridge laminated asphalt, 16
diagram of, 35 lifting and staging, 32 wood shakes and shingles
faux slate and, 83 metal, 23 about, 56–57
metal roofing and, 77 photovoltaic, 25 installing, 58–61
sagging, 91 replacing, 94 replacing, 95
ridge cap slate, 19 underlayment for, 57
asphalt shingles and, 52–53, 55 side wall flashing, 76–77 wood soffits, 108–109
cedar shakes and, 61 skylight flashing, 37, 60
removing, 39 slate shingles, 19
128 DIY ROOFING701301 - BDDIYR_307004_096-128.indd 128 6/5/18 12:29 PM 701301 - BDDIYR_307004_096-128.indd 128 6/5/18 12:29 PM Text Black Job:06-701301 Title: CSP #307004 - Black & Decker DIY Roofing Dtp:229 Page: 128
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