Painting & Finishing
Black & Decker Finishing & Refinishing Wood - Techniques & Projects for Fine Wood Finishes
Source: Black & Decker Finishing & Refinishing Wood - Techniques & Projects for Fine Wood Finishes.pdf
Source file: Black & Decker Finishing & Refinishing Wood - Techniques & Projects for Fine Wood Finishes.pdf
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Finishing
& Refinishing
Wood
Techniques & Projects for
Fine Wood Finishes
CHANHASSEN, MINNESOTA
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Contents
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Evaluating & Planning. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Why Refinish? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Evaluating Furniture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Refinishing Wood: Evaluating Wood Floors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
A Step-by-step Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Evaluating Woodwork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Identifying Old Finishes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Selecting a New Finish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Tools for Finishing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Safety, Cleanup & Disposal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
2
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Refinishing Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Case Studies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98
Removing Old Finishes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Rocking Chair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102
Making Basic Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Sewing Machine Cabinet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104
Preparing for the Finish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Dining Chair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106
Coloring Wood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Reproduction Mission Finish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108
Painting Wood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 Chest of Drawers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110
Applying Topcoats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78 Frame-and-panel Cabinet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112
Hardware & Accessories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94 Cedar Chest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114
Antique Mantel Clock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116
Tip-Top Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118
Music Cabinet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120
Antique Radio Console . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122
Double-hung Window . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124
Woodwork & Door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126
Wood Floor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130
School Desks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134
Maintenance & Quick Fixes . . . . . . . . . . . . . .136
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .140
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Introduction
A n old rocking chair, a well-used cedar
chest, a hardwood floor that has lost its lus-
ter—anywhere you look around your home, you are
As a special bonus, Finishing & Refinishing Wood
contains a section featuring 15 separate case studies
that take the mystery out of refinishing. The section
likely to find a potential refinishing project. But even leads you step-by-step through the refinishing
the most ardent do-it-yourselfers often draw the line process, providing insight into the decisions that
at refinishing. They have a vision of refinishing that is make any project a success. You will find clear ex-
filled with messy, harsh chemicals and endless sand- amples addressing the same challenges you are
ing and scraping. In reality, refinishing and finishing facing—and offering solutions for meeting those
wood is a manageable process that can yield profes- challenges.
sional-quality results with surprisingly little mess and
fuss if you use the right tools and techniques. From cleaning a dirty wax finish, to repairing, strip-
ping, sanding, and refinishing an old piece of furni-
Refinishing furniture is an adventure. It begins in at- ture, the skills you learn in Finishing & Refinishing
tics, antique stores, or at garage sales; usually with Wood are do-it-yourself abilities that you will use
the question, “Wouldn’t that look nice if...?” And the again and again to add value and restore beauty to
more involved you become in a project, the more your worn-but-sturdy woodwork and furniture.
questions you encounter: How can I unlock the po-
tential of that old sewing cabinet? What is the best
way to sand the grooves on a rocking chair spindle?
Should I use chemicals or a heat gun to remove the NOTICE TO READERS
old finish on my antique clock?
This book provides useful instructions, but we can-
not anticipate all of your working conditions or the
Finishing & Refinishing Wood gives you all the infor- characteristics of your materials and tools. For
mation you need to bring new life and a lasting finish safety, you should use caution, care, and good
to furniture, floors, and woodwork. It takes you judgment when following the procedures described
through every phase of the refinishing and finishing in this book. Consider your own skill level and the
process: evaluating old furniture and finishes to de- instructions and safety precautions associated with
velop a refinishing strategy; making minor repairs like the various tools and materials shown. Neither the
filling gouges and regluing joints; removing an old fin- publisher nor Black & Decker® can assume re-
sponsibility for any damage to property or injury to
ish with a heat gun or chemical stripper; finish sand-
persons as a result of misuse of the information
ing and filling wood grain; coloring and topcoating provided.
new and stripped wood; revamping hardware and
other accessories; and more. Consult your local Building Department for informa-
tion on building permits, codes, and other laws as
they apply to your project.
We also give you the most up-to-date information on
new refinishing and finishing products that are safer
to use and safer for the environment. Disposal,
safety, and cleanup issues are examined in detail.
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Why Refinish?
R efinishing wood is more
than just another do-it-your-
self skill. Practical skills like car-
pentry, plumbing, or wiring help
you save money and make sure
your home improvements are
done the right way. But giving new
life to an old rocking chair by
transforming it from an eyesore to
a centerpiece gives you a special
sense of satisfaction.
Studies have shown that most
people who have made a hobby of
refinishing are not in it for any kind
of financial advantage. They do it
because it is fun. A successful re-
finishing project brings out the
artist, historian, and the creative
caretaker in even the most practi-
cal-minded do-it-yourselfer. Most
people who successfully complete
one refinishing project become
hooked—they enjoy it enough to
take on additional projects.
Beyond the feelings of fun and
pride inspired by the process,
there are many practical benefits
to refinishing and finishing wood.
A well-executed refinishing job
can increase the value of a worn-
Restore lost beauty. out article. Buying fine furniture in
A new finish and a few
the rough and refinishing it is an
new accessories give
fresh life to a inexpensive way to decorate your
forgotten piece home. And refinishing old furniture
of furniture. is an excellent form of recycling—
Pages 122 to 123. not only does it eliminate the dis-
posal problem, it also preserves
resources that would be used to
create a replacement.
A new finish makes your favorite
old furniture last longer by protect-
ing it from moisture, heat, and
spills. Increasing your understand-
ing of wood finishes gives you all
the background you need to prop-
erly maintain and care for wood.
6
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Uncover buried treasure.
A plain painted cabinet is
unmasked to reveal
fine furniture.
Pages 104 to 105.
Unleash potential.
A chair plagued by loose joints
and layers of old paint is trans-
formed into a classic American
antique. Pages 102 to 103.
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Why
Refinish?
Put a fine finish on new wood.
An unfinished, kit-built table
gets a first-class
finish treatment.
Pages 118 to 119.
Make the ordinary extraordinary.
A plain pine dresser gets
a serious sprucing up.
Pages 110 to 111.
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Extend a life.
A cedar chest confined to
basement storage duty
becomes a showpiece.
Pages 114 to 115.
Preserve an heirloom.
A chestnut dresser with hand-cut dovetail joints
on the drawers has been in the family for years.
A fresh new finish ensures that it will be in the
family for generations to come.
Pages 12 to 13
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Why Refinish?
Make time for fun. A quick cleanup and
some creativity excite the imagination
and save a valuable antique.
Pages 116 to 117.
Step out in style.
A frame-and-panel cabinet is
dressed up to showcase its
distinctive styling.
Pages 112 to 113.
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Make a house a home.
Refinished floors,
woodwork, and doors
brighten a dreary room.
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Refinishing
Wood:
A Step-by-step
Overview
T his overview sequence
shows the basic how-to steps
in a major refinishing project—from
evaluating potential projects to at-
taching the last piece of hardware.
Your own refinishing or finishing
project may require all these steps,
or perhaps only a few. To help de-
termine which steps your planned
project requires—and how to ac-
Evaluate the potential project before you start. complish them—browse through
Look for good wood, solid construction and other the Case Studies section at the
signs that indicate a strong likelihood of success. end of this book.
How to Refinish Wood: a Step-by-step Overview
Remove the old finish. Heat stripping, chemical stripping, Make basic repairs. Fixing problems, like the loose stretch-
1 and sanding are the primary methods for removing an old
finish. Most projects require more than one removal method.
2 ers we reglued here, ensures that your completed project
will be sturdy as well as beautiful.
12
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Prepare for the finish. Fixing flaws like dents and gouges Color the wood. Use penetrating oil or stain to enrich a grain
3 then thoroughly finish sanding are essential steps in creat-
ing a smooth surface suitable for staining and topcoating.
4 pattern, create a pleasing color, or even to hide flaws in the
wood. In some cases, paint is used instead of stain for a more
decorative appearance. Or, you may prefer to skip the wood-
coloring step altogether and let the natural color and beauty of
the wood speak for itself.
Apply a topcoat. A hard, clear finish layer applied over the Complete the project. Refurbish or replace hardware and
5 wood protects it from moisture and scratches, seals in the
color, and adds depth to the finish.
6 other accessories to provide the final touch to a refinishing
project.
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Evaluating
& PlanningJob on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P15 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black
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Remove hardware and other attachments from painted furniture and woodwork to uncover useful information about the old finish
and the type and condition of the wood.
Evaluating & Planning
P otential refinishing projects can be found in
virtually every home, garage, and antique store.
But the fact that a piece of furniture or a floor is old or
Once you have chosen a refinishing or finishing proj-
ect, make a plan. Having a new finish in mind helps
you make decisions, like choosing a finish-removal
worn out does not necessarily make it a good candi- method, or determining how thoroughly to sand the
date for refinishing. The wood could be damaged be- wood. Once you decide what repairs need to be
yond repair, or the finish may be too stubborn to be made, for example, you can more accurately esti-
removed completely. Many times, stripping a piece of mate the time commitment and cost of the project.
furniture only reveals that the paint was there for a But stay flexible when planning. Refinishing is full of
reason—to cover damaged or unattractive wood. But surprises, and plans inevitably require modification
for every project that is a risky refinishing choice, as you learn more about your project.
there is another that has the possibility of great suc-
cess. Learning to distinguish between a wise choice
and a waste of time is simply a matter of knowing
THIS SECTION SHOWS:
what to look for.
Evaluating Furniture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .pages 17 to 19
This section shows you some warning signs and Evaluating Wood Floors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .page 20
some indicators of good potential. We tell you how to Evaluating Woodwork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .page 21
estimate what certain problems mean in terms of Identifying Old Finishes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .pages 22 to 23
time, expense, and likelihood of success. But the ulti- Selecting a New Finish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .pages 24 to 27
mate decision on whether or not to proceed with a FinishingTools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .pages 28 to 29
project is up to you: keep in mind that sometimes the Safety, Cleanup & Disposal . . . . . . . . . . . .pages 30 to 33
most ill-advised project turns out wonderfully—espe-
cially if it has sentimental value to the refinisher.
16
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Evaluating
Furniture
E valuating potential furniture
refinishing projects is basi-
cally a four-step process: 1) study
the wood to identify the type and
assess its general condition; 2)
evaluate structural soundness and
identify needed repairs; 3) evaluate
the condition of the wood surfaces
to determine if an attractive finish is
possible; 4) evaluate the condition of
the finish to decide if it needs to be
stripped off, or if cleaning and a few
quick fixes will bring it back to life.
Also consider the age and value
of the potential project. If it is a
valuable antique, you probably
should not choose it as your first
refinishing experiment.
Based on your evaluation, make
a decision about the project: is the
final result likely to be worth the Partially strip finish in an inconspicuous area so you can examine the wood more
closely (strip a large enough section to allow you to evaluate how effectively the chem-
effort? ical stripper dissolves the paint, too).
Tips for Evaluating Furniture
Look for written clues like a manufacturer’s name, a date, or Examine hidden areas for information about the wood and the
a place of origin, to help you establish the age, value, and fin- quality of the workmanship. Examining this dresser drawer, for
ish type. In some cases, a previous owner may have left a clue example, revealed hand-cut dovetail joints that were still sturdy
behind, like a receipt, an old piece of newspaper lining a after more than 100 years of wear—sure signs the dresser was
drawer, or a note detailing the history of the piece. If you sus- built with care. NOTE: There may be several types of wood in a
pect the potential project is an antique, have it appraised by a single piece of furniture, so do not base all your conclusions on
professional before you do anything with it. just one area.
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How to Evaluate Potential Refinishing Projects
Evaluate the wood. The type of wood used in a piece of but it is made of sturdy hardwood, so the chances of reviving it
1 furniture has a great effect on its value and its suitability as
a refinishing project. The two cabinets shown above are about
are good. The other (right) is built from particleboard so, de-
spite the presence of hardwood veneer, its prospects of with-
the same size and they use the same type of joinery, but the standing a refinishing job are not good. Because the joints are
similarities end there. One cabinet (left) looks old and battered, sturdy, however, it is a good candidate for painting.
Evaluate the structural soundness. If a potential project is they have not caused any major problems, so the chair likely
2 plagued with many loose joints and has obviously been re-
paired in the past, then there is a basic structural problem with
can be reclaimed. The other rocker (right) also has a cracked
seat, but the wood has degenerated around the damaged area,
the piece. The two pressback rocking chairs above each show and ineffective repair efforts caused further splintering and
signs of wear. One chair (left) has a crack in the seat that will damage to the wood. Because the seat would have to be re-
require some repair, but the wood around the crack and at the placed, refinishing the rocker is probably not worth the effort.
joints is solid. A few repairs have been attempted already, but
18
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Evaluate the condition of the wood surfaces. you may well be disappointed with the result—disguising sur-
3 A few surface problems, including small dents and cracks
(left), loose veneer (center), or small burns (right), all can be
face repairs, especially those requiring wood putty, is a very
tricky job. With newer, solid wood furniture, however, you may
remedied easily. A few such problems should not disqualify a be able to resurface flat surfaces that are in poor condition us-
project from consideration. But making too many surface re- ing a belt sander.
pairs will add considerably to the time the project requires, and
Evaluate the condition of the finish. It is a mistake to as- like water stains (left), can be treated easily with the right tech-
4 sume that just because the finish looks worn it needs to be
replaced. Especially on antique furniture, removing the old fin-
niques, preserving the old finish. More severe finish problems,
like alligatored shellac (right) usually require full finish removal.
ish can cause significant devaluation. A few finish blemishes,
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Evaluating Wood Floors
T he condition of your floorboards is the primary
factor in deciding if refinishing will be success-
ful. Look for signs of rot, especially around pipes, ra-
diators, and windows. Replacing floorboards is hard
work, and getting a good match is difficult. Also
check for dips or valleys, especially in high-traffic ar-
eas. Evaluate the overall evenness of the floors—roll a
golf ball or marble across the floor in several spots
and see how it behaves. Visually, uneven floors may
not seem like a big problem, but they are next-to-im-
possible to sand because floor sanders do not follow
dips and valleys.
If your floor is fairly even and fundamentally sound,
your next step is to decide whether to resurface or
chemically strip the old finish. Many homeowners
have come to equate “doing your floors” with sanding
the surface down to bare wood, but often chemical
stripping is a more efficient method that yields better
results. With uneven floors, parquet floors, veneered
flooring products, and floors that have already been
resurfaced, your only do-it-yourself refinishing option
Remove layers of wax and grime so you can see the true is to chemically strip the finish. Resurface floors only if
condition of floor. Often, a simple cleaning with mineral spirits
many scratches, gouges, and stains have affected
is all the “refinishing” a floor needs.
the floorboards.
Tips for Evaluating Wood Floors
Shown cutaway for clarity
Parquet flooring cannot
be sanded with most
floor sanders because
of the perpendicular
grain patterns.
Sanding ridge
Newer flooring products,
like “floating floor” floor-
boards and veneered
floorboards, are too thin
to be sanded.
Identify the type of flooring product. Standard 1”-thick hard- Look for signs of past resurfacing. Inexperienced floor refin-
wood floorboards can withstand one or two resurfacing projects ishers often remove much more wood than is necessary when
with a drum sander, but some newer flooring products can only they power-sand a floor. Look near baseboards and radiators
be chemically stripped—they simply do not have enough wood for sanding ridges where the power sander could not reach. If
to withstand resurfacing. Sanding parquet flooring requires sanding ridges are visible, you probably do not have enough
special sanders and is a job for professionals. Otherwise, it wood remaining above the tongues in tongue-and-groove floor-
should be chemically stripped. boards to allow you to sand the floors again.
20
Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision Job on:P20 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Scn : # Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black Dept : D
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Evaluating Woodwork
E valuating woodwork to determine its suitability
for refinishing is a more complicated issue
than evaluating floors. Condition of the wood certainly
is important—you should examine it closely for signs
of deterioration or extensive damage. Woodwork is
often milled from softer wood types than floors, mak-
ing it more susceptible to gouging, splintering, and
decay. The fact that woodwork was painted often in-
dicates that it has undergone repairs, or that some of
the woodwork is not original and will be difficult to
blend in.
When evaluating woodwork, note the intricateness of
the trim pieces, particularly above doors, and check
for detailed architectural millwork. Stripping an old
finish from detailed woodwork can be a very time-
consuming process. Test the woodwork in a few
spots to find out if it can be removed easily for refin-
ishing. For many people this is the most workable op-
tion—sending woodwork out for commercial stripping
is a common practice. Refinishing woodwork in place
is perhaps the easier option, but it can create quite a
mess, and is physically demanding. Ask yourself if Check for paint in the first finish layer. If the first layer is
paint, stripping the wood down to the natural wood color is very
you are up to the task physically before you commit
difficult. Painting is your best option.
to refinishing woodwork in place.
Tips for Evaluating Woodwork
Carefully remove one piece of woodwork and check the Test the condition of the wood. Probe the woodwork with a
back side to identify the wood type. Also examine the ends of sharp instrument, especially around windows and other areas
the piece to see how thick the finish is and how deeply it has where moisture is present. Badly rotted woodwork should be
penetrated into the wood. You may even want to try stripping replaced. Minor damage can be treated with wood-hardening
the piece to assess how easily the finish comes off. Also, if the products, but this option generally forces you to paint the wood-
piece was easy to remove, consider the option of removing all work. Some manufacturers, however, have introduced stain-
the woodwork for refinishing. able wood hardener—ask at your local building center.
21Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P21 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black
FRW_014-033-M6.qxp 5/3/06 2:44 PM Page 22
Test the old finish with solvents to identify the topcoat mater- rag (give the chemical enough time to work). Always wipe the
ial (see chart, next page). Dip a clean rag in the solvent you are surface lightly with mineral spirits first to remove any wax
testing with, dab the finish, then look for finish residue on the buildup.
Identifying Old Finishes
I dentifying the original topcoat material is an
important stage in both the evaluation and the
planning processes. It helps you estimate how much
work is involved in removing the topcoat. Knowing the
type of topcoat also helps determine your options for
restoring the workpiece—some finishes are easier to
repair than others, and depending on what you find,
you may be able to get by with minor touch-ups and
cleaning. Identifying an old finish can suggest the
age of a potential project as well (see next page).
To identify a finish, begin by looking for visual clues,
like crazing or alligatoring (see next page, step 1). If
you are still unsure of the finish material based on this
inspection, try dabbing the finish with various sol- Use a lead-testing kit to determine if paint contains lead. A
closely regulated health hazard, lead can be found in paint
vents. For example, if denatured alcohol dissolves the made before 1978 and was common in paint made before
old topcoat, the chances are good that it’s shellac. 1950. Follow the kit manufacturer’s directions carefully, making
And once you know it is shellac, you also know that sure you test all layers of the finish, not merely the top one. If
you have the option of blending out surface problems lead is detected, do not strip or sand the paint yourself. Take it
with a mixture of alcohol and shellac. to a professional refinisher.
22FRW_014-033-M6.qxp 5/5/06 11:31 AM Page 23
How to Identify an Old Finish
Oil finish: Lacquer:
• has a natural look, often • very hard finish with a
with a flat sheen, but can reflective quality; often
be polished to high gloss sprayed on; common on pro-
• frequently tinted with stain duction finishes
that penetrates deep into • brittle; will craze or fracture
the wood (left), especially when
• mineral spirits will dissolve exposed to extreme cold
oil, but color must be • chips easily
sanded out • dissolves and rehardens if
• easy to touch up or recoat treated with lacquer thinner
Shellac: Varnish/polyurethane:
• alligators and turns dark • most newer varnish products
and gummy as it ages (left) contain polyurethane and
• usually has an orange cast are fully dissolved only by
when dissolved strong chemical strippers
• very common before 1930, • often yellows with age (left)
but still in use today • common on refinished wood
• dissolves easily with • polyurethane products
denatured alcohol cannot be recoated or
• will bond with fresh shellac repaired, but pure varnish
to form a solid topcoat may be recoated
1Look for visual clues to the identity of the topcoat material. Different topcoats exhibit different properties as they age and are sub-
jected to wear and exposure to air and chemicals.
Mineral spirits: Lacquer thinner:
• dissolves wax, most oil • dissolves spray-on
topcoats, and pure and brush-on lacquer
varnish topcoats
• good as a general • can be used to repair
cleaner a lacquer finish
• will lighten some oil- • also dissolves shellac
based wood stains and wax
• a more volatile
solvent than mineral
spirits or alcohol
Denatured alcohol: Chemical stripper:
• dissolves shellac on • the most powerful
contact finish-removal agent;
• evaporates quickly; cuts through varnish
must be wiped off and polyurethane
soon after application • different brands are
when used as a finish made for different
solvent finish materials—
• also effective on wax check the label
and as a general • hazardous chemical;
cleaner use with care
Test with solvents to confirm the identity of the finish. If vi- the rag on the finish, preferably in an inconspicuous area. Allow
2 sual inspection has not given you any clues, test the finish,
working from the mildest solvent to the strongest: mineral spir-
time for the solvent to work, then rub again, checking to see if
any finish residue comes up on the rag. If none of the solvents
its, then denatured alcohol, then lacquer thinner, then chemical dissolve the finish, it is probably a commercial topcoat, and
stripper. To test, dab a little solvent onto a clean rag, then rub sanding is the only effective removal method.
23Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P23 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black
FRW_014-033-M6.qxp 5/25/06 1:45 PM Page 24
Selecting a New Finish
A good finish both protects and beautifies
wood. To achieve both goals, a finish is
made up of several layers, each with its own specific
Finally, a topcoat is applied to seal the wood and
protect the finished surface from scratches and wear.
Topcoats can be created with traditional finishing
purpose. Each element of a finish should be chosen products, like tung oil, or more contemporary materi-
carefully, according to the features of the wood, the als, like polyurethane. A layer or two of well-buffed
function of the project piece, and your tastes. paste wax can be applied over most topcoat materi-
als to create a glossy, protective surface that is easily
On new wood, apply a seal coat made of sanding renewable with fresh wax.
sealer to create more even finish absorption and
more consistent color. For a fine finish, some woods When selecting a new finish, it helps if you know the
are best treated with grain filler instead of sealer. wood species of your project. Softwoods, like pine,
should always be treated with sanding sealer or
The next layer is the color layer, which is usually primer, for example. And open-grained hardwoods,
created with wood stain or penetrating oil. Color can like red oak or mahogany, look better when treated
either enhance or minimize grain pattern and other with grain filler. The finish samples on pages 26 to 27
wood features, and it can beautify plain wood. With can help you identify the wood type. They also show
fine woods, or to create a more rustic look, the color how some common finishes look on different woods.
layer can be omitted. Dampen the wood surface with
mineral spirits to see how it will look with a clear fin- As a general rule, base your finish selection on color.
ish. To create a specific decorative look, or to cover Simply choose a color you like, then select a coloring
wood defects, apply paint as the color layer. agent and a compatible topcoat.
A typical wood finish is composed of three
basic layers: the seal coat, the color layer, and the
topcoat.
Topcoat layer
Color layer
Seal coat
(or grain filler)
Unfinished wood
Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision Job on:P24 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Scn : # Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black Dept : D
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Tips for Selecting a New Finish
Natural wood Wood with stain applied
Red oak
Pine
Maple
Consider absorption rates. Some wood types absorb more Consider the grain pattern when choosing a finish. Highly fig-
finish materials than others, depending on the porosity of the ured wood, like the walnut shown above, usually is given a
wood grain. In the photo above, the same stain was applied to clear finish so the grain is not obscured. In some cases, how-
three different unsealed woods, resulting in three very different ever, tinted penetrating oil can be used to enhance an already
levels of darkness. Sealing the wood with sanding sealer or fill- striking grain pattern. Experiment with different coloring agents
ing the grain minimizes this effect. on a piece of similar wood, or in an inconspicuous area of the
project, to help with the finish selection.
Stripped wood with old finish
residue and obvious repair
Dark wood stain applied to
blend in repair area and
even out wood color
Look for repairs, damage, and uneven color. Workpieces Combine colors to create interesting decorative effects. Con-
with obvious damage or repairs, like the wood putty line shown trasting stains on the same wood type can create a dramatic
above, or with uneven wood color from old finish residue, re- finish when used under the influence of good design sense.
quire a darker finish to disguise the wood defects.
25Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P25 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black
FRW_014-033-M6.qxp 5/24/06 9:30 PM Page 26
Sample Finishes: Dark
White oak with Basswood with Pine with
dark walnut stain ebony stain dark oak stain
A B C
Unfinished Unfinished Unfinished pine
white oak basswood
D E
Unfinished Unfinished
mahogany poplar
Mahogany with Poplar with
red mahogany stain medium walnut stain
Use dark finishes to: enhance a distinctive grain pattern (A); woods (C); create a traditional finish style (D); or simulate the
add interest to plain wood (B); give a rich, formal look to soft- appearance of a finer hardwood on inexpensive wood (E).
Sample Finishes: Light
Red oak with Maple with Birch with
light oak stain golden maple stain fruitwood stain
A B C
Unfinished Unfinished Unfinished
red oak maple birch
D E
Unfinished Unfinished
white oak mahogany
White oak with Mahogany with
golden-oak-tinted brown mahogany
penetrating oil stain
Use light finishes to: highlight subtle grain patterns (A); amplify lar decor or color scheme (C); add a sense of depth (D); or give
attractive wood tones (B); modify wood tones to match a particu- unfinished wood a seasoned, antique appearance (E).
26
Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision Job on:P26 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Scn : # Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black Dept : D
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Sample Finishes: Clear
Walnut Cedar Zebrawood
Bird’s-eye maple Cherry
Clear finishes protect and seal wood while allowing the natural exotic woods that are prized for their color or grain pattern, or for
beauty of the wood to speak for itself. Choose clear finishes for more common woods when a natural, rustic look is desired.
Sample Finishes: Painted
Stripped wood
with finish residue
Knotty pine
Plain-figured
softwood
Painted finishes mask undesirable qualities, like old finish create an even surface when painted. Man-made wood prod-
residue, and create decorative effects. Surface defects, like re- ucts, like plywood, also benefit from painted finishes.
pairs, stains, knots, and holes should be filled with wood putty to
27Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P27 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
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Finishing Tools
F or any refinishing project, you will need a few
hand and power tools to remove the old finish,
repair defects and damage, prepare the workpiece
EVERYTHING YOU NEED:
for the new finish, and apply the new finish. You Tools: brad pusher, clamps, craft knife, hammer, nailset,
probably already own many of the necessary tools, razor blade scraper, rubber mallet, screwdrivers, staple
especially the more basic ones (see list right). Some gun, straightedge, tape measure, utility knife, wood chisels.
household items, such as old toothbrushes and cot-
Materials: dust mask, eye protection, respirator, rubber
ton swabs, can also be useful in refinishing and
gloves, drop cloths, masking tape.
finishing. Other household items can be fashioned
into custom finish-removal tools. For example, an old
credit card, cut to fit the contours, can be used as a
molding scraper.
Random-orbit sander
Belt sander
Detail sander
Finishing sander
Cordless drill Heat gun
with polishing
bonnet
Power tools for finishing and refinishing include a belt sander for finish removal on large, flat surfaces; a random-orbit sander for
all-purpose sanding; finishing sanders for early stages of finish sanding, a cordless drill with a polishing bonnet for buffing topcoats;
a heat gun for stripping paint; and a mouse-sander for detail sanding.
28FRW_014-033-M6.qxp 5/24/06 4:38 PM Page 29
Natural-bristle
paintbrush
Polyester-
bristle
paintbrush
Painting pad Wire brush
Artists'
brushes
Stripping
brush
Detail brushes
Stenciling brushes
Brushes for removing finish include a stripping brush and wire areas; a polyester-bristle brush for all finishes; a natural-bristle
brush for finish removal, and wire detail brushes for smaller areas. brush for oil-based applications; artists’ brushes for touch-ups;
Brushes for applying finish include a painting pad for large, flat stenciling brushes for finishing and liquid wax applications.
Sanding Sanding grips for Sanding
cord for sanding contours block
sanding
crevices Putty
knives
Paint
Detail scrapers with scraper
interchangeable
heads
Teardrop
sanding
pad
Abrasive Stripping tool
pads
Sanding and scraping tools include: a stripping tool, paint wool for finish removal, sanding, and buffing finishing coats;
scraper, and putty knives for finish removal and scraping flat sanding cord, sanding grips, and a teardrop sanding pad for
surfaces; detail scrapers for scraping detail areas; a sanding sanding hard-to-reach areas and contours.
sponge for all flat surfaces; abrasive pads and synthetic steel
29Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P29 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
FRW_014-033-M6.qxp 5/3/06 2:45 PM Page 30
Safety,
Cleanup &
Disposal
P rotect yourself and your
home, and help ensure good
finishing results by using sensible
safety, cleanup, and disposal
methods when refinishing.
Refinishing wood can create many
hazards, including dangerous va-
pors, flammable or toxic chemical
residue, and sanding dust that
can impair breathing (as well as
ruin an otherwise good finish).
Make sure you have the required
safety and protective equipment
before you begin working. Estab-
lish a dedicated work area, prefer-
ably in a well-ventilated area, like
a garage. Organize the area for
comfort, safety, and efficiency
(see guidelines, left). If you are un-
sure about any disposal regula-
tions, contact your local waste
management department, city of-
Install a fan in a window in your work area to provide ventilation. Where possible, di-
fice, or the Environmental Protec-
rect one fan outside to remove vapors, and direct another fan into the room to supply
fresh air. tion Agency (page 32).
Guidelines for a Refinishing Work Area
• Choose a worksurface that raises the project to a comfortable working height. An
adjustable-height workbench is ideal for refinishing.
• Store refinishing knives, scrapers, and other dangerous tools in a locked cabinet
or trunk.
• Store hazardous or flammable materials in a fireproof cabinet.
• Protect the floor with a drop cloth. For messy jobs, lay old newspaper over the
drop cloth for easy cleanup.
• Cover any ductwork in the work area to keep dust and fumes from spreading
throughout the house.
• Extinguish nearby pilot lights and do not operate space heaters whenever working
with strippers and other chemicals that produce flammable vapors.
• Maintain a work area that is well lit, dry, and warm (between 65° and 75°F). Use a
dehumidifier in damp areas to speed drying times.
• Use a metal trash can with a lid and empty it regularly. Read product labels for important infor-
mation on safety, cleanup, and disposal.
30
Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision Job on:P30 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Scn : # Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black Dept : D
FRW_014-033-M6.qxp 5/24/06 4:39 PM Page 31
Safety Equipment
Smoke detector
Eye wash kit Disposable
gloves
Fire
extinguisher
Telephone
First aid kit
Basic safety equipment for the work area includes: a fully charged fire extinguisher rated for type A and B fires, a smoke detector,
a first aid kit, an eye wash kit, disposable latex gloves, and a telephone for emergency use.
Protective Equipment
Respirator
Goggles
Cap with
brim
Ear plugs Dust mask Stripping gloves
Protective equipment for refinishing and cleanup includes: a dust mask and cap with brim, to wear when sanding; a respirator, to
wear when using harsh stripping chemicals; goggles and stripping gloves, to wear while stripping and finishing; ear plugs, to wear
when operating power tools.
31Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P31 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
FRW_014-033-M6.qxp 5/3/06 2:45 PM Page 32
Storage Tips
Hang paint brushes with the bristles down so they dry evenly Label storage containers clearly with a description of the
and completely, and to protect the bristles. If the bristles are bent contents and the date the material was first used. Also note any
while the brush is drying, they will become permanently bent. special projects to which a finishing product was applied. Note:
The best solution to storage issues is to buy only as much ma-
terial as you need, avoiding leftovers.
Disposal Tip Guidelines for Working with Chemicals
Leftover paints, strippers, and solvents are considered
household hazardous wastes. Wastes produced by strip-
ping and finishing procedures may contain lead, mercury,
and other dangerous substances that will pollute landfills
and water supplies. Call the EPA Hazardous Waste Hot-
line at 1-800-424-9346 for information on disposing of
these materials responsibly.
•Use water-based strippers, stains, and finishes instead
of oil-based products whenever they meet your needs.
•Buy refinishing and finishing materials in the smallest
quantity needed for the job, and dispose of leftover mate-
rials properly.
•Never pour refinishing or finishing chemicals down the
drain.
•At the end of your project, take any unused chemicals to
a hazardous waste disposal site, or donate any usable
leftover materials to friends or civic organizations.
•Never mix chemicals directly into your household or
yard waste without drying first (see TIP, left).
Use newspapers and rags to collect residue from refinishing
and finishing. Let the newspapers and rags dry, then throw
them out with your household trash. Note: Any residue contain-
ing lead must be taken to a hazardous waste disposal site.
32
Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision Job on:P32 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Scn : # Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black Dept : D
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Cleanup Tips
Wrap wet paintbrushes in plastic or foil Reuse mineral spirits. Pour used min- Clean brushes efficiently in a container
to store them for up to three or four eral spirits into a clear container, and that is just big enough to hold both the
hours while you wait for a coat of finish allow the liquid to rest until the contami- brush and enough solvent to do the job.
to dry. nants settle to the bottom of the con- To ensure compatibility with the solvent,
tainer. Pour or siphon the clear mineral select a container that is made of the
spirits into another container for later same material (usually plastic or metal)
use. Dispose of the residue properly. as the solvent container.
Clean hands with vegetable oil. Scrubbing with ordinary veg- Keep your work area dust free by vacuuming toolboxes,
etable oil will dissolve and remove most oil-based finishing cabinets, woodwork, and light fixtures, as well as all floors and
products. The oily mess it creates is rinsed off easily with soap worksurfaces, whenever you complete a sanding project.
and water (dish detergent is very effective).
33Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P33 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
FRW_034-053-M6.qxp 5/3/06 2:56 PM Page 34
Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision Job on:P34 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Scn : # Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black Dept : D
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Refinishing BasicsJob on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P35 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black
FRW_034-053-M6.qxp 5/4/06 3:33 PM Page 36
Use the best finish-removal method for the type of old finish. Heat stripping and sanding are effective, too, and they don’t in-
On painted surfaces, chemical stripper removes most of the old volve nasty chemicals, but it’s easy to gouge or scratch the wood.
paint quickly and effectively, and without damaging the wood.
Removing Old Finishes
R emoving an old finish does not have to be a
tedious chore. In fact, watching your project
emerge from beneath many layers of old finish is
ginning and end of almost every finish-removal
process. Sanding is the only way to remove some very
stubborn finishes, like epoxy paint. Heat stripping is
one of the most satisfying stages of the refinishing most effective with painted finishes, but it can be used
process. Nevertheless, stripping a finish should be with some success on thick layers of clear topcoat. In
viewed as a last resort to be done only if the old finish most cases, heat stripping should be followed by
cannot be saved. chemical stripping to fully remove a finish.
Before beginning the removal process, make certain Chemical stripping is the most thorough finish-removal
your project really needs stripping. Clean the wood sur- method and it poses the smallest amount of danger to
faces thoroughly with mineral spirits and identify the fin- the wood.
ish topcoat to determine if it can be repaired.
THIS SECTION SHOWS:
There are three primary finish-removal methods: scrap-
ing and sanding, heat stripping, and chemical strip- Scraping & Sanding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . pages 38 to 39
Heat Stripping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . pages 40 to 41
ping. Removing finish usually requires a combination of
Chemical Stripping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . pages 42 to 45
techniques. Scraping and sanding are done at the be-
36
Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision Job on:P36 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Scn : # Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black Dept : D
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Tips for Removing a Finish: Preparing the Workpiece
Remove the hardware to provide better Make repairs to the workpiece before Disassemble furniture when it is help-
access to wood surfaces. Removing the stripping it. Problems like loose veneer ful. Some furniture is easier to work with
hardware also makes it easier to repair and need to be corrected before chemical when it is broken down into separate,
refurbish it without damaging the wood. strippers are applied because the chemi- more accessible pieces.
cals can get into the damaged area and
worsen the problem.
Mask delicate parts and accessories that are difficult to re- Label all woodwork before sending it out to be commercially
move. Especially on older items, trying to remove delicate parts stripped. Use a scratch-awl for marking—pen or pencil marks
that are securely in place can damage the parts and the wood usually disappear during commercial stripping. Make a com-
surrounding them. plete list of the items you send out, and always check your list
at pickup time to make sure nothing is missing.
37Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P37 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
FRW_034-053-M6.qxp 5/10/06 10:26 AM Page 38
Remove epoxy paint and tough commercial finishes with a belt sander—some commercial finishes, especially those applied to pre-
finished flooring products, are almost impossible to dissolve with chemicals.
Scraping & Sanding
A brasion techniques, like scraping and sand-
ing, are used at the start and the end of most
finish-removal projects. Before heat stripping or Edger
chemically stripping wood, scrape off loose finish
with a paint scraper or putty knife. After stripping as
much finish as you can, use scrapers again to dis-
lodge any last flecks of finish. Finally, sand to get rid
of finish residue and to smooth the wood surface.
Use scraping and sanding as your primary finish-
removal method on extra-tough surfaces like epoxy
paint, and for very delicate surfaces that are not suit-
able for heat-stripping or chemical stripping. On
floors, sanding is the most common method for re-
Drum sander
moving an old finish. Use coarse sandpaper (up to
120-grit) for finish removal.
Scrapers and sanding blocks come in all shapes and
sizes. And if the perfect tool for your needs is not Rent floor sanders for resurfacing wood floors. Drum sanders
manufactured, you can often make it yourself from and edgers like the ones shown above are available at rental
simple household items, like an old credit card, a stores and can be rented at many building centers. If you rent
rubber spatula, or metal flashing. these tools, make sure to get operating instructions from the at-
tendant, and grab plenty of sanding belts and discs in a variety
of grits (you can always return sandpapers that you do not
use).
38
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Tools for Scraping & Sanding
Paint scrapers remove loosened finish materials. Use a detail A belt sander is used for fast finish removal from large, flat
scraper with interchangeable scraping heads (left) to remove surfaces. This tool removes material very quickly, so use it with
paint from hard-to-reach spots, and a paint scraper with re- discretion (and a dust bag). In addition to general smoothing, a
placeable blades (right) to scrape flat surfaces. belt sander is a good tool for removing paint (see previous page).
Sanding cords remove finish from difficult-to-reach areas such Teardrop sanding blocks, available in a variety of sizes, let
as crevices like those commonly found on spindles and deco- you sand old finish from contours or unusually shaped areas.
rative accents. Cords are sold in woodworking supply stores They can also be used for finish sanding. Similar products,
and catalogs in several different grits: 60- to 120-grit cord is called sanding grips, are available in many profiles and sizes.
good for finish removal.
39Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P39 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06(Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
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Successful heat stripping depends on good timing. As you point, the scraper works like a plow, pushing the loosened paint
expose paint to a heat gun, the paint reaches a point where its off the wood in wide ribbons. If you wait too long, the paint be-
bond with the wood loosens. If you scrape the surface at this comes gummy.
Heat Stripping Tip for Heat Stripping
H eat stripping is a safe and effective finish-
removal method when the proper techniques
and safety measures are used. It works best on paint,
but can be used on thick layers of varnish, lacquer,
and other topcoats. Heat stripping is a good money-
saver when done prior to chemical stripping: be-
cause it removes so much old paint, you will use less
of the expensive chemical stripper. Use caution when
heat stripping woodwork—the blower can send hot
paint chips flying, so always scrape off loose paint
before using the heat gun.
EVERYTHING YOU NEED:
Tools: heat gun, putty knife, assorted scrapers, heavy-gauge
A heat shield prevents the hot air from a heat gun
extension cord, fire extinguisher.
from damaging or blistering other areas next to the
Materials: coffee can, goggles, work gloves, aluminum foil work area. To make a heat shield, cover a piece of
and cardboard. heavy cardboard (approximately 6” × 12”) with
heavy-duty aluminum foil.
40
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How to Heat-strip Paint
Scrape off all loose paint flakes with a paint scraper. Posi- Push a metal scraper along the heated surface, at an angle
1 tion the heat gun about 2" above a large, flat surface, then
turn the gun on, starting at the lowest setting. As the gun heats
2 of approximately 30°, following the heat gun. Develop a
rhythm that allows you to move the scraper and the heat gun at
up, move it in a circular motion until the paint begins to re- the same speed (always keep the heat gun moving in a circular
lease—usually signified by blistering. If the paint fails to blister, motion). Strip all the large, flat surfaces. TIP: Keep the scraper
try the next higher heat setting. blade clean by depositing paint ribbons into a coffee can as
you work.
Heat-strip the contoured and uneven areas, using specialty Dry-scrape all wood surfaces to remove any remaining loos-
3 scrapers, where needed, to remove the loosened paint. Do
not overheat or apply too much pressure around detailed ar-
4 ened paint flecks after you are done heat stripping. In most
cases, you will need to use chemical solvents or strippers to re-
eas—they are more vulnerable to scorching and gouging than move the rest of the finish.
flat areas.
41Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P41 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
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Chemical Stripping
T here comes a time in the life of every furnishing
when its original finish needs to go. Not only
does a failed finish detract from the appearance of
the furnishing, it will not protect the wood properly.
So unless your piece of furniture is a museum-
quality antique (and it almost certainly isn’t) you'll be
doing the old chair or table (and yourself) a favor
by stripping off the failing finish and replacing it
with a brand-new protective coating.
Common solvents used to strip a finish are: min-
eral spirits (used as a general cleaner, for remov-
ing wax buildup, and to dissolve pure varnish);
denatured alcohol (effective on shellac and as a
rinsing agent after stripping); and lacquer thinner
(used to dissolve both spray-on and brush-on lac-
quer finishes). These chemicals are inexpensive
and relatively safe to use, so use them instead of
commercial chemical strippers whenever you can.
Chemical paint strippers are confusing products.
The fact is, any chemical that can peel paint off a
rocking chair has the potential to affect your health
negatively. Newer stripping products introduced in
the last decade or so claim to be safer alternatives
to traditional "Zip Strip" types of chemical strippers,
often boasting a pleasing citrus scent to suggest
that their chemistry is somehow more organic and
less toxic. These stripping products do use a dif-
ferent active ingredient than the traditional chemi-
cal strippers that contain a particularly nasty active
ingredient called methylene chloride. But these
products aren't actually less toxic, they simply
evaporate more slowly so the dangerous fumes
don't build up as quickly.
When shopping for a chemical stripper, the pri-
mary questions to ask concern cost and whether
the product is a semi-paste or a liquid. For most
jobs, semi-paste stripper is the best choice. Liquid
stripper doesn’t cling to surfaces and often dries
out before the finish is dissolved. No matter which
product you buy, it is very important that you follow
the safe use and disposal instructions rigorously.
EVERYTHING YOU NEED:
Tools: paint brushes, putty knives and scrapers, safety
equipment.
Chemical stripper dissolves thick finishes so they can be wiped Materials: stripper or solvent, medium abrasive pads,
off or scraped off easily. Coarse abrasive pads are effective re- newspapers and rags, sawdust, rinsing agent.
moval tools for contours.
42
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Chemical Strippers by Type
Methylene Chloride (MC) strippers are the types most people Furniture Refinisher is a liquid that contains a combination of
are familiar with using. They contain anywhere from 25% to solvents, including acetone, toluene, and methanol, but not
85% MC, along with a variety of other solvents and wax. The methylene chloride. It is somewhat effective on non-oil base
fumes are hazardous and safe usage requires good ventilation clear finishes but won’t dissolve most paint or oil-base varnish
and the wearing of a respirator. Non-flammable products usu- and polyurethane. Because it is liquid it evaporates quickly and
ally have a higher concentration of MC. Common brand names requires numerous reapplications.
include Bix, ZipStrip, SuperStrip, Zar Paint & Varnish Remover.
NMP strippers (N-methyl pyrrolidone) are somewhat safer to Household solvents that dissolve certain types of wood fin-
use than MC or ATM strippers, but only because they evapo- ishes include denatured alcohol, mineral spirits (also called
rate more slowly, lessening the buildup of hazardous vapors. paint thinner), and lacquer thinner. They are inexpensive and
They are slower-acting and more expensive than other types. have other applications, including thinning finishes and general
Some common brands include 3M Safest Stripper, SafeStrip, cleanup. See pages 22 to 23 for more information on these
Citristrip, ZipStrip 2 Cleaner formula, Biodegradable Stripeeze, products.
Peelaway, Woodfinishers Pride.
43Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P43 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black
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How to Chemically Strip a Finish
To help the chemical stripper penetrate the old finish, scuff- Shake the chemical stripper thoroughly and then open the
1 sand the finish lightly with coarse (80- or 100-grit) sandpa-
per before you apply the product.
2 cap very slowly. Pour a small amount of product into a con-
tainer with a large enough opening to fit a 3" paintbrush. The
new container should be made of the same material as the
stripper container. Stripper evaporates quickly–only pour it out
of the container in small amounts. Wear goggles, a respirator,
heavy rubber gloves, and long sleeves when working with
chemical stripper.
Brush stripper onto the wood surface in a thick layer. Work Let the stripper work for at least as long as the manufacturer
3 quickly and do not backbrush or rebrush product once it is in
place. The stripper usually contains paraffin that forms a skim
4 suggests. Check it periodically. If you see that it is dried out,
refresh it, doing your best to avoid disturbing the skim coat on
coat on the surface to prevent the active ingredients from evap- the surrounding area. The goal is to keep the coat of stripper
orating too quickly. Avoid disturbing the skim coat. fresh and working on the paint long enough to dissolve it all the
way to the wood in one application.
44
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You can slow the evaporation of the stripper by covering the Test the stripper to see if it has removed finish down to bare
5 item you’re stripping with plastic wrap. Continue to take care
to avoid disturbing the skim coat of paraffin.
6 wood and then scrape the sludge and old finish off. On flat
surfaces, use a stiff putty knife. Round off the corners of the
putty knife first so it does not scratch the wood. Deposit the
sludge on old newspaper or in a cardboard box.
TIP: Strip the detailed and contoured areas, using spe-
Scrub the item with steel wool dipped in stripper to remove
cialty scrapers and abrasive pads to remove the sludge.
Use light pressure on the scrapers so you do not gouge 7 stubborn areas, and then rinse it thoroughly with steel wool
dipped in mineral spirits or denatured alcohol to dissolve and
the wood. You can also use rough twine, old tooth-
brushes, a scouring pad—anything you can think of to remove all of the paraffin and any other chemical residue that
manage the profiles as long as it’s safe to use. will prevent the new finish from bonding.
45Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P45 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black
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Making repairs, like regluing the face-frame stretcher joints on this dresser, helps ensure that your project piece will stand up to
daily use for many years to come.
Making Basic Repairs
R epair broken parts, loose joints, damaged
veneer, and other wood problems during the
refinishing process. By making careful repairs, you
almost always be done before chemical stripping be-
cause the chemicals can seep under loose veneer
and cause further damage. Other repairs, like reglu-
will be able to enjoy your completed refinishing proj- ing a broken joint, make more sense after the strip-
ect for a long time. ping is completed because chemical strippers can
dissolve the new glue in the joint.
This section shows you how to make basic repairs to
common problems found in all types of furniture, To learn more about cosmetic repairs, like filling
floors, and woodwork. Most repairs involve wood scratches in a finish or reattaching wood splinters,
joints. If you are unfamiliar with the various ways two see Maintenance & Quick Fixes (pages 136 to 139).
pieces of wood can be joined together, check libraries
and bookstores for information on wood joinery.
THIS SECTION SHOWS:
Once you identify any repairs your refinishing project Repairing Joints & Broken Parts . . . . . .pages 48 to 51
requires, choose the best time to perform the repairs.
Some repairs, like reattaching loose veneer, should Repairing Veneer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .pages 52 to 53
46
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Glues & Gluing Tools
D
A C
B B
A
I
E
H
C
G F
Common glues for repairing wood include: white glue (A), Tools for gluing include: a J-roller (A), and a wood wallpaper
carpenter’s glue (B), and epoxy glue (C). Carpenter’s glue is seam roller (D) for pressing veneer; and glue applicators, like
suitable for most general wood repairs, but for complicated a palette knife (B), a skewer (C), tongue depressors or popsicle
repairs use slower-drying white glue to give yourself more sticks (E), squeeze bottles (F), pipe cleaners (G), a metal glue
working time. Use epoxy for exterior furniture and for repairs brush (H), and a glue injector (I).
where the glue must fill voids created by missing wood.
Tips for Working with Glue
Remove old glue before regluing. Use a Apply glue to the applicator, not to the Scrape off excess glue after it dries, us-
file or an emery board in tight areas, and workpiece itself, to achieve the neatest re- ing a chisel (round over the corners first
use scrapers or chisels on flat, easy-to- sults when gluing in hard-to-reach areas, to prevent gouging). Wiping off wet glue
reach surfaces. Stubborn glue can usu- like under veneer or inside a mortise. with a rag forces glue into wood pores,
ally be dissolved with hot vinegar. interfering with new finish absorption.
47Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P47 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
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Repairing
Joints &
Broken Parts
L oose or broken joints and bro-
ken parts, like cracked seats
and wobbly legs, are among the
most common structural problems
found in furniture. Easy to fix, these
problems usually can be corrected
simply by gluing and reinforcing the
joint. For best results, disassemble
the joint first so you can scrape off
the old glue before regluing. Doing
good, careful work is important—if
the repair is not as strong as the
original joint, it is likely to fail again.
EVERYTHING YOU NEED:
Tools: chisel, putty knife, clamps, drill,
glue injector, saw, utility knife, nail
puller, pliers, bandsaw or jig saw, pen-
Cut hardwood mending plates and matching mortises to reinforce repairs made to cil, screwdriver.
cracks or breaks in flat surfaces. Cut a bow-tie-shaped plate, and mortise (above) with
Materials: carpenter’s glue, epoxy glue,
a chisel. Or, if you prefer working with a router, cut figure-8 shapes (inset).
wood sweller, dowels, wood, wax pa-
per, hardwood wedge.
Tips for Repairing Joints Without Disassembly
Use wood sweller to tighten loose joints. When squirted into a Drill holes in a joint and fill with epoxy glue to create “epoxy
loose joint, like a chair spindle, sweller causes the wood in the nails” that harden and reinforce loose joints. Drill at least two
joint to swell and tighten. Use wood swellers only on interior 3⁄16"-diameter holes per joint. Unlike metal fasteners, epoxy will
spindles and other parts that do not support much weight when not corrode or discolor the wood. Use a self-mixing injector
the furniture is in use. (above) to deliver the correct mixture of two-part epoxy glue.
48
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How to Disassemble a Joint
Remove nails, screws, and other fas- If the glue bond is still intact, dissolve Wiggle or twist the joint gently before
1 teners that were driven into the wood
to reinforce the joint. Internal reinforce-
2 the glue by injecting hot vinegar into
the joint. N : If hot vinegar fails to dis-
OTE
3 the glue rehardens. If it still does not
separate, drive a wedge-shaped hard-
ment, like dowels or biscuits, cannot be solve the glue, it is probably epoxy, wood scrap into the joint.
removed until the joint is separated. which must be separated by breaking
or cutting the joint.
Scrape all traces of the old glue from the parts of the joint OPTION: Remove internal reinforcement, like dowels—especially
4 (including wooden fasteners like dowels or biscuits) using a
sharp tool, like a putty knife, chisel, or file.
if the joint has rotted or deteriorated in any way. Use a pliers to
pull dowels or biscuits out of the wood, then replace them with
new reinforcing materials.
49Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P49 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06(Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
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How to Repair Cracks & Breaks in Flat Surfaces
Clean loose debris and splinters from Apply glue to the surfaces to be Outline and cut a bow-tie-shaped
1 the pieces of the part so the mating
surfaces fit tightly. If so much wood is
2 joined, press the parts together, then
clamp the glue joint and let the glue dry.
3 mending plate from ⁄ "-thick hard-
wood. When set over the crack or break,
14
missing that the pieces cannot be Unclamp, then scrape the excess glue it should overhang each side of the
matched, you probably need to replace from the surfaces with a chisel. break by at least 1". Cut the mending
the damaged part. plate using a bandsaw or jig saw with a
medium or fine blade.
Position the mending plate over the crack or break, then Apply glue to the back of the mending plate and to the bot-
4 trace the outline onto the underside of the workpiece as a
guide for cutting the mortise. Use a sharp wood chisel to cut
5 tom of the mortise, then set the plate into the mortise. Cover
the plate with wax paper, then clamp until the glue is dry.
a 3⁄16"-deep mortise for the mending plate. Smooth out the bot- Scrape away the excess glue with a chisel, then sand the top
tom and sides of the mortise, using the chisel or a file. Test-fit of the plate so it is flush with the surrounding wood.
the plate in the mortise, and enlarge the mortise if needed.
50
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How to Repair Broken Spindles, Legs & Rungs
Remove the spindle, leg, or rung from the piece of furniture, Apply glue to the mating surfaces of the break. Wrap the
1 disassembling the joints if they are not loose already. Clean
debris and splinters from the pieces of the part so the mating sur-
2 spindle, leg, or rung with wax paper so the clamps do not
stick to the wood, then press the parts together, making sure
faces fit tightly. If so much wood is missing that the pieces cannot they are aligned. Slip hose clamps over the repair, spaced
be matched, you probably need to replace the damaged part. every 3" to 4", and tighten them securely. Allow the glue to dry
overnight, then remove the clamps and paper, and scrape
away the excess glue with a chisel.
Choose a length of hardwood dowel that is no thicker in di- Taper one end of the dowel (inset photo), then cut the dowel
3 ameter than one-half the diameter of the spindle, leg, or
rung at the repair spot (the thickest spot in the repair area).
4 12
so it is ⁄ " longer than the depth of the hole. Apply glue to
the dowel and slide it into the hole, leading with the tapered
Using a drill and a bit the same diameter as the dowel, drill a end, so it extends 1⁄4" on each side of the hole. When the glue
hole all the way through the thickest spot in the repair area. is dry, trim the ends of the dowel with a saw or file, then sand
them flush.
51Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P51 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06(Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
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Repairing
Veneer
M aking basic veneer
repairs, like regluing
loose or blistered veneer, is a fairly
simple job. As long as you clean
the repair area thoroughly and do
not rush through the process,
these easy veneer repairs will
greatly improve the appearance of
your furniture—and prevent further
damage. Complicated repairs in-
volving patching should be done
by a professional.
Before regluing loose veneer, try
ironing the veneer to reform the
glue bond.
EVERYTHING YOU NEED:
Tools: brush, palette or putty knife,
glue applicator, squeeze bottle for
Use small tools when working with veneer. Thin-blade knives, like the palette knife glue, craft knife, pencil, straightedge,
above, and small brushes are less likely to cause damage.
clamps.
Materials: glue, wax paper, vinegar,
cotton swab.
Common Veneer Problems
Make repair yourself Consult a professional
Loose or blistered veneer is relatively easy to repair. In some Missing sections of veneer are difficult to repair. If you still
cases, the repair is as simple as covering the damaged area have the missing piece and it is intact, however, it can be
with a towel, then pressing it with an iron. If ironing does not reglued the same way as with loose veneer (see opposite
work, reglue the veneer with fresh glue (page opposite). page). Cutting and gluing down new veneer patches is a job for
Scratches, burns, and other common surface problems are professionals or very experienced woodworkers. Often, the
repaired using the same techniques as with solid wood—but best solution is to cover the entire surface with new veneer.
use extra care and do not oversand.
52
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How to Repair Loose Veneer
Use a putty or palette knife to lift the Apply glue to the veneer and base Cover the repair area with wax paper
1 veneer so you can clean below it with
a brush. Be careful not to tear the fragile
2
O
with an applicator, like a cotton swab.
: Inject glue under the veneer with
PTION
3 and a clamping block, then clamp the
repair until the glue dries. Remove the
veneer. If there is glue on the surface, try a squeeze bottle or a glue injector. clamp and carefully scrape away any
scrubbing with a cotton swab dipped in excess glue with a chisel.
hot vinegar.
How to Repair Blistered Veneer
Spacer
Slice the blister along the grain with a Slip a thin spacer under the veneer, Slice away any veneer that overlaps
1 craft knife. Use a thin-bladed knife,
like a palette knife, and a small brush to
2 then inject carpenter’s glue into the
blister (for very large areas, use slower-
3 the seam, using a craft knife and
straightedge.
clean debris from under the blistered drying white glue). Roll the blister with a
area (see opposite page). seam roller to set the glue. Cover with
wax paper and clamp the repair until the
glue dries.
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Sand wood with power sanders, like the random-orbit sander shown above, to make quick work of the initial finish sanding stages,
while producing a very smooth wood surface.
Preparing for the Finish
A properly prepared wood surface absorbs
finish materials evenly, focusing attention on
the quality and color of the wood and the finish. A
Before beginning the final preparations for the finish,
sand the workpiece with medium-grit sandpaper to
remove small scratches and other surface prob-
poorly prepared surface focuses attention on itself lems—this is especially important if you did not use
and its flaws. sanding as a final stage of finish removal. Any
Sanding or filling scratches and gouges, removing scratches, gouges, dents, or stains that survive the
dents and stains, and carefully finish sanding are the intermediate sanding should be remedied before you
essential steps in preparing for the finish. With many finish-sand.
woods (especially softwoods like pine) you can cre- Do your final stage of finish sanding immediately be-
ate a more even finish by sealing the wood with fore you apply the finish—the smooth surface created
sanding sealer immediately after finish sanding, then by finish sanding is easily scratched or discolored.
sanding the sealer lightly with 220-grit sandpaper af-
ter it dries. For exceptionally smooth, rich finishes THIS SECTION SHOWS:
(particularly on open-grain hardwoods like ma- Fixing Flaws in the Surface . . . . . . . . . . . . .(pages 56 to 57)
hogany), apply wood grain filler to fill in checks and
large pores, creating a smooth-as-glass surface. Surface Preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .(pages 58 to 59)
54
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Tips for Preparing a Wood Surface
SANDPAPER GRIT CHART
Grit Task
80 to 100 Finish removal
120 to150 Preliminary finish sanding
180 Final sanding for softwood; intermediate
stage of finish sanding for hardwood
220 Final sanding for hardwood
300 to 400 Sanding between finish layers
600 wet/dry Wet sanding of final finish layer
Choose the right sandpaper for the job. Aluminum oxide and Get rid of glue. Dried glue won’t absorb wood stain or any
garnet are two common types. Aluminum oxide is a good gen- other penetrating coloring agents, so glue spills and squeeze-
eral-use product suitable for most refinishing and finishing pur- out show up as bright blotches if they’re not removed by sand-
poses. Garnet is usually cheaper than aluminum oxide, but it ing or scraping before the finish is applied.
wears out much more quickly. Use sandpaper with the proper
grit (higher numbers indicate finer grit—see chart above).
Apply wood grain filler that approximately matches the natural Make your own sanding sealer by blending one part clear
color of your wood. Available in light and dark colors, grain filler topcoat material with one part topcoat solvent. NOTE: Use the
creates a smooth surface in open wood grains. Usually manu- same topcoat material you plan to apply to the project. Sanding
factured as a gel, it can be applied with a putty knife or a rag, sealer is used before coloring soft or open-grain woods to
but the excess material should be wiped off with a plastic achieve even stain penetration. To apply, wipe on a heavy
scraper. coat, then wipe off the excess after a few minutes. Sand lightly
with 220-grit sandpaper when dry.
55Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P55 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
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Walnut tinted
wood putty Fixing Flaws
in the Surface
S urface defects such as
scratches, dents, and nail
holes detract from the appearance
of a wood finish. In most cases, the
hardest part of repairing the flaws is
choosing the best method and the
appropriate time to do the work.
If you will be painting the wood, or
even coloring it with a dark, one-
step finishing product, wood putty
or even spackle or a resin-based
Walnut wood stain auto body filler can be used to fill
already applied scratches and repair other defects.
But if you’re applying a traditional
tinted or clear wood finish, even
stainable wood putty is not likely to
provide the hard-to-detect results
you’re looking for. A cleaner repair
can be had by using a wood putty
Pretinted putty. There are several suitable methods for filling nail holes and scratches
in furniture. The question of which way is best is debated constantly by woodfinishers.
that has been pretinted to match
Applying stainable wood putty prior to staining is a common approach, but for a less the color of the finished wood. Ap-
visible result try selecting a pretinted putty to fill nail holes, dents, scratches, and other ply the putty after the wood has
surface defects after the wood stain is applied. been stained.
Tips for Eliminating Dents
Distilled water
Swell out shallow dents with water or steam. Apply a few drops of distilled water into ALTERNATIVE: Instead of a household
the dent (left), and let the water soak in. In most cases, this will cause dented wood to iron, use the tip of a soldering iron and a
swell to its original shape. If the dent does not swell out, try touching the tip of a hot iron clean damp cloth to steam out the dent.
to a wet rag directly over the dent (right). If all else fails, fill the dent with wood putty. A soldering iron lets you direct the heat
more precisely than a household iron.
56
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Tips for Bleaching Wood
Oxalic acid
mixture
Two-part wood bleach can be used to remove or lighten stains in the wood surface Remove black stains created by water
(left photo) or for overall lightening of wood (right photo). Apply a coat of the first part damage or contact with metal using a
(Part A or Part 1) to the area you wish to lighten. Before the first part dries, apply Part mixture of oxalic acid crystals (sold at
B (or Part 2). The two chemicals will foam and create a bleaching action when com- most building centers and paint stores)
bined. Reapply as necessary and neutralize with a mixture of vinegar and water when and distilled water.
finished. Be sure to read and follow the manufacturer’s directions.
TIP: Plug counterbores
Neutralize bleach with white vinegar. If
A good way to hide recessed screwheads is to drill counterbored holes and left in the wood, bleach can cause discol-
cap them with wood plugs. Use plugs of the same wood species as the project oration and raise wood grain. As soon
to help them blend in. Most wood plugs sold at woodworking stores require a as you are done bleaching, wipe vinegar
3⁄8"-dia. counterbore that’s also 3⁄8" deep. onto the bleached area with a rag, then
rinse off immediately with water. Dry with
a rag.
57Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P57 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06(Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
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Surface
Preparation
S urface preparation ensures an even,
high-quality finish. Finish-sand with
progressively finer grits of sandpaper,
starting with 100-grit. Hardwood requires
finer-grit sandpaper (a final sanding with
220-grit is common) than soft wood (sand
to 150-grit). To speed up the process,
use a power sander for the first stages of
the sanding, then switch to hand-sanding
to complete the process.
Finish sanding alone creates a smooth
With grain
filler surface, but because wood absorbs stain
at different rates, the color can be blotchy
With sanding sealer and dark. Sealing wood with sanding
Finish-sanded only sealer (either a commercial product or your
own concoction of thinned finish) evens out
Use sanding sealer or grain filler for a fine finish. Finish sanding alone (left)
the stain-absorption rates and yields a
can leave a blotchy surface when stain is applied, but a coat of sanding lighter, more even finish. Filling the grain
sealer (center) or grain-filler (right), or both, allows you to create a smoother, with a commercial paste filler creates a final
more even finish. finish that feels as smooth as it looks.
How to Finish-sand
Finish-sand all surfaces with 150-grit Raise the wood grain by dampening Use sanding blocks to hand-sand the
1 sandpaper, following the direction of
the grain. Use a finishing sander on flat
2 the surface with a wet rag. Let the
wood dry, then skim the surface with a
3 entire workpiece with the finest-grit pa-
per in the sanding sequence. Sand until
surfaces and specialty sanding blocks on fine abrasive pad, following the grain. all sanding marks are gone and the sur-
contours. When sanding hardwood, face is smooth. (Use bright sidelighting to
switch to 180-grit paper and sand again. check your progress.) If using sanding
sealer, do that now.
58
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Tips for Using Sanding Sealer
Make your own sanding sealer by blending one part clear Wipe on a heavy coat of the sealer, then wipe off the
topcoat material (not water-based) with one part topcoat sol- excess after a few minutes. When dry, sand lightly with 220-grit
vent. NOTE: Use the same topcoat material you plan to apply to sandpaper.
the project.
How to Apply Grain Filler
After finish sanding, use a rag or putty Remove excess filler by drawing a Lightly hand-sand the surface, follow-
1 knife to spread a coat of grain filler
onto the wood surface. With a polishing
2 plastic scraper across the grain of the
wood at a 45° angle. Let the grain filler
3 ing the direction of the grain, with
320-grit sandpaper. Finally, dampen a
motion, work the filler into the grain. Let dry overnight. clean cloth with mineral spirits and use it
the filler dry until it becomes cloudy (usu- to thoroughly clean the surface.
ally about 5 minutes).
59Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P59 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (J(Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
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Coloring Wood
T here are several reasons to color
wood. The most common reason is
to enhance the appearance of wood by
showing off a fine or distinctive grain pattern
or creating a beautiful wood tone. But stain
and penetrating oil, the two most basic color-
ing agents, can accomplish more practical
results as well. Using a dark color conceals
uneven color in your wood and can blend
together two or more different wood types—
a common problem encountered in refinishing.
When selecting a coloring agent for your proj-
ect, you will find a vast selection of products
to choose from. There are oil-based stains,
water-based stains, wipe-on gel stains, pen-
etrating oils, one-step stain-and-sealant
products, aniline dye stains…the options
seem endless. To sort through the many
products and make the selection that is best
for your project, start by finding a color you
like. Then check the specific properties of
the coloring agent to determine if it is the
best general type for your project. Make sure
it has no compatibility problems with the top-
coat you plan to use, or with any old finish
materials that have not been removed.
Whichever coloring agent you select, read
the directions very carefully before applying
it to the wood. Drying time, application tech-
niques, and cleanup methods vary widely
between products—even products that are
similar. Also test the product on a wood sam-
ple similar to your project. When using a
stain, apply enough coats to create the exact
color shade you want—some stain will
darken (up to a point) with additional coats or
by leaving it on the wood longer before wip-
ing, while other types won’t darken. The
product label will give suggestions for con-
trolling the color.
It’s always a good idea to keep a careful
record of how many coats of stain (and what
type) you applied for your reference when
you finish the actual workpiece.
THIS SECTION SHOWS:
Applying Wood Stain pages 64 to 65
A well-chosen, properly applied color layer is the most important com-
ponent of an attractive wood finish.
60
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Oil-based Water-based
Liquid Stain Liquid Stain
Oil-based liquid tradi- Water-based liquid
tionally has been the stain is wiped or
most common type of brushed on to create
wood stain, but its pop- a color layer than can
ularity is declining due be darkened with addi-
to environmental and tional applications.
cleanup factors. Advantages:
Advantages: • easy to clean up, safe to use
• does not raise wood grain • wide range of colors available
• slow drying time increases workability • can be built up in layers to control final color
• permanent and colorfast • dries quickly
• can be built up to control color
Drawbacks:
• conditions and seals wood
• can raise wood grain (requires sanding for an even surface)
• less likely to bleed than water-based stain
• can chip or scuff if not properly topcoated
Drawbacks:
Compatibility:
• harmful vapors; flammable; hard to clean
• bonds well with most topcoats
• regulated or restricted in some states
• decreasing availability Recommended Uses:
• unpleasant odor • floors
• woodwork
Compatibility:
• previously finished furniture—can be “painted” on to cover
• can be used with most topcoats
color variations
Recommended Uses: • tabletops, eating surfaces, children’s furniture and toys
• previously stained wood
• wood finish touch-up
Gel Stain Aniline Dye
Gel stains, usually Liquid or powder
oil-based, provide aniline dye is added to
even surface color denatured alcohol or
that is highly control- water to create a dye
lable due to the thick- stain that can be
ness of the product. brushed or sprayed.
Advantages: Advantages:
• very neat and easy • small molecules
to apply; will not run penetrate into wood
• does not raise (instead of binding to the surface)
wood grain • easy to darken or lighten or blend the color when mixing
• dries evenly • color can be lightened after application by wiping the wood
• can be built up to deepen color with solvent
• can be buffed to create a hard surface • evens out color variations better than pigment
Drawbacks: Drawbacks:
• limited color selection • requires mixing (limited availability of premixed dye stain)
• more expensive than most other stain types • relatively expensive, especially if you are mixing to a very
• hard to clean up dark tone
• requires buffing between coats • raises wood grain if mixed with water
Compatibility: Compatibility:
• can be used with most topcoats • bonds well with most topcoats
Recommended Uses: Recommended Uses:
• woodwork and furniture with vertical surfaces • wood with color variation between sapwood and heartwood
• furniture with spindles and other rounded parts (e.g., walnut and cherry)
• wood with irregular structure (e.g., white oak with promi-
nent rays and flakes in addition to open grain)
• custom finishes with non-stock stain color
61Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P61 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06(Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
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Tips for Coloring Wood
Test coloring agents on an inconspicuous area of the work- Seal exposed end grain with sanding sealer, then sand lightly
piece to see how the color will look once the stain is applied with 220-grit sandpaper. Unsealed end grain absorbs more
and dry. Coloring agents often have a very different appear- stain than face grain, causing it to look darker. Be careful to
ance on the actual workpiece than on color chips at the store keep sealer off the face-grain areas.
display.
Pigment stain over dye stain
on quarter-sawn white oak
Dye stain on flat-sawn red oak Pigment stain on flat-sawn red oak
Use a clean, lint-free cloth when wiping Dye stain versus pigment stain. The vast majority of the premixed wood stains you
penetrating oil or stain onto wood sur- can buy at hardware stores, woodworkers stores and paint stores are pigment-based
faces. Rags from well-worn cotton T- stains. These stains contain a binder that glues the pigment molecules (larger than
shirts make excellent staining cloths. dye molecules) to the wood, so they do not actually penetrate and color the wood
Always wear rubber or latex gloves when fibers like a dye stain. Among fine woodworkers, dye stains are valued because they
wiping stain. do not obscure or muddy wood grain and they are easy to adjust to create custom
wood tones. They can be hard to find, though. Applying a pigment stain over a dye
stain can create an interesting effect that adds depth to the wood finish (inset).
62
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Stain with dry
topcoat
Dry stain
Without wood
conditioner
With wood Wet stain
conditioner
Prepare wood for stain with sanding sealer (also called Judge color while stain is wet. A common mistake when
wood conditioner). Sealer reduces blotchiness and is espe- staining is to think that the color is too light once the staining
cially useful on softwoods or hardwoods with an open grain. It agent dries. In almost all cases, stained wood will also have a
is sold premixed (as above) or you can make your own. clear protective topcoat that darkens the finish. Judge stain
color while the stain is still wet—that’s closer to how it will look
after the finish is applied.
How to Prepare Aniline Dye Stain
With a sufficient quantity of denatured alcohol in a glass or
1 Aniline dyes come in both liquid and powder form (inset)
and most can be mixed with either water or denatured al- 2 plastic container, begin adding a small amount of dye. Stir
and test the color on a piece of wood scrap by blotting with a
cohol. Because it does not raise wood grain, alcohol is a bet-
ter choice for most applications. Alcohol does evaporate more clean paper towel. Continue adding dye until the stain is the
quickly, so if you’re planning to stain a large area and aren’t desired tone.
concerned about raising the grain, then use water to suspend
the dye. Add the alcohol to your container first.
63Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P63 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black
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Applying
Wood Stain
W ood stain is a general
term describing a number
of different coloring agents with
very different properties.
Oil-based or water-based, in
liquid form or as a gel, stain is a
very controllable coloring agent.
The color often can be lightened
by scrubbing, and it usually can
be darkened by applying addi-
tional coats.
Before staining, seal all end grain
and test the stain color.
EVERYTHING YOU NEED:
Tools: paintbrushes.
Materials: sanding sealer, staining
cloths, liquid or gel stain, fine abrasive
Creating consistent color is easy with stain, especially gel stain (above), which pads, sandpaper.
clings to awkward surfaces without pooling.
How to Apply Liquid Stain
Stir the stain thoroughly and apply Remove the excess stain with a clean, Apply light coats of stain until the de-
1 a heavy coat with a brush or cloth.
Stir the stain often as you work. Let the
2 lint-free cloth. Wipe against the grain
first, then with the grain. If the color is too
3 sired color is achieved. Buff between
coats and after the final coat before
stain soak in according to manufacturer’s dark, try scrubbing the surface with water adding the topcoat.
instructions. or mineral spirits. Let the stain dry, then
buff the surface with a fine abrasive pad.
64
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How to Apply Gel Stain
Stir the stain, then work it into the surfaces of the workpiece
1 with a staining cloth, rubbing in a circular motion. Recoat
any areas that dry out as you work, and cover as much of the
2Use a stiff-bristled brush, such as a stencil brush, to apply
the gel in hard-to-reach areas.
workpiece as possible.
Let the stain soak in according to manufacturer’s directions, Apply additional coats until the desired color has been
3 then wipe off the excess with a clean rag, using a polishing
motion. Buff the stained surface with the wood grain, using a
4 achieved. (Most manufacturers recommend at least three
coats.) Let the stain dry, then buff the workpiece with a fine
soft, clean cloth. abrasive pad.
65Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P65 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
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Painting Wood
M ost woodworkers want to show-
case the natural wood tones of their
projects, so painting is a finishing option that
is sometimes overlooked. However, there are
many wood projects that are designed to be
painted, including a number in this book.
Painting surfaces also allows you to use less
expensive woods, yet still have impressive
results.
Use paint as an alternative to wood stain to
give plain wood a splash of color or a deco-
rative touch; or simply use it to hide wear,
low-quality materials, or unattractive wood.
Furniture and woodwork generally should be
painted with water-based or oil-based
enamel paint except when using decorative
painting techniques that call for flat wall paint.
Enamel paint forms a tough, protective coat
that resists moisture, chipping, and scratch-
ing. It is available in dozens of premixed col-
ors, and in gloss and semi-gloss versions. Or,
you can have special colors custom-mixed at
a paint store.
Paintbrushes for wood include straight trim brushes
for flat areas, and tapered brushes for edges. Use
synthetic brushes (nylon or polyester bristles) for both
water-based and oil-based paint.
66
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Water-based Paint Oil-based Paint
Water-based paint for wood is usually sold as “latex enamel” or Oil-based paint (also called alkyd paint) dries to a harder
“acrylic enamel.” Because water-based paint can raise wood finish than water-based paint and offers the best protection
grain, use a water-based primer to prepare the wood, then sand for wood that is exposed to wear. It is still the preferred
the primed surface before applying the paint. The coloring paint type of most professional painters, but this prefer-
agents in water-based paint settle quickly, so stir the paint often ence is changing as water-based paints become stronger
as you work. and more versatile. Use oil-based primer with oil-based
Advantages: paint.
• safer for the environment Advantages:
• less toxic than oil-based paints • hard, scratch-resistant finish
• easy cleanup with soap and water • unaffected by moisture
• dries quickly • does not raise wood grain
• can be thinned with water • dries to a very smooth finish
Drawbacks: Drawbacks:
• raises wood grain • releases toxic vapors
• scratches easily • slow drying time
• cleanup is difficult after paint dries • requires mineral spirits for cleanup
• softens with exposure to moisture • use is restricted in some states
• cannot be applied in thick coats Compatibility:
Compatibility: • may be applied over varnish or oil-based polyurethane
• will not adhere to most topcoats • may be used over oil- or water-based paints
• may be used over other water-based paints Recommended Uses:
Recommended Uses: • stairs and railings
• children’s toys and furniture • floors and doors
• cabinetry • woodwork
• woodwork • previously finished wood
Stir paint with a mixing bit attached to a portable drill for fast, Strain paint to remove lumps, dirt, and other foreign materials.
thorough mixing. Keep the mixer bit moving constantly. Re- Commercial paint strainers are available,or you can make your
peatedly lower the mixer blade to the bottom of the can, then own from cheesecloth or nylon stockings.
raise it to the top of the can to mix in settled pigment.
67Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P67 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black
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Applying Paint
P ainting wood is very much like painting walls
and other common do-it-yourself painting proj-
ects. Whenever you paint anything, preparation is
critical. For wood, that means sanding the surface
until it is flat and smooth, then sealing with primer so
the paint absorbs evenly (see Tips, below). Although
it is a different product, primer is applied using the
same techniques as paint. In addition to sealing the
wood, it keeps resins in the wood from bleeding
through the paint layer.
Cleanup solvents, thinning agents, drying time, and
coverage vary widely from one enamel paint to an-
other. Read the manufacturer’s directions carefully.
For best results, designate a clean, dust-free area for
painting.
EVERYTHING YOU NEED:
Tools: paintbrushes, sanding block.
For a smooth surface free from lap marks, hold your paint- Materials: primer, paint, clean rags, tack cloth, sandpaper,
brush at a 45° angle, and apply just enough pressure to flex masking tape, polyurethane.
the bristles slightly.
Tips for Preparing Wood for Painting
Previously painted wood can be repainted without priming, Clear finished wood should be stripped and sanded before
but if the old painted surface is badly chipped or damaged, priming. Paint will not adhere well to most topcoat finishes.
primer is helpful. Fill scratches and nicks with wood putty, and
sand the surface smooth before painting.
68
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How to Paint Wood
Finish-sand the wood. Vacuum the
1 surfaces or wipe with a tack cloth af-
ter you sand to remove all traces of sand-
2 Prime the wood with an even coat of
primer (use water-based primer with 3 Mask any adjacent areas that will be
painted a different color, using mask-
water-based paint, and oil-based primer ing tape. Press the edges of the tape
ing dust from the workpiece. with oil-based paint). Smooth out brush firmly against the wood.
marks as you work, and sand with 220-
grit sandpaper when dry.
Apply a thin coat of paint, brushing with the grain. When dry, OPTION: Apply clear polyurethane topcoat to surfaces that will
4 sand with 400-grit sandpaper, then wipe with a tack cloth.
Apply at least one more heavier coat, sanding and wiping with
get heavy wear. Before applying, wet-sand the paint with 600-
grit wet/dry sandpaper, then wipe with a tack cloth. Use water-
a tack cloth between additional coats. Do not sand the last coat. based polyurethane over latex paint, and oil-based over
oil-based paint.
69Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P69 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06(Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
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Decorative Painting Techniques
A pply a creative touch to your wood project with decorative painting
techniques. Antique finishes, stencils, and color washes (next page)
give furniture and decorative items a rustic look. The following pages show
some in-depth projects for creating additonal aged finishes with paint. A
handful of specialty paintbrushes, some quality finishing materials, a few
helpful tools, and a little creativity are all you need to create these unique
painted finishes on your projects. With all of these techniques, it is best to
practice on scraps before applying to your project.
70
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Antique Finish
Antique finishes re-create the look of
worn paint. Finish-sand and apply a base
coat of wood stain. If you use water-
based stain and water-based paint, the
stain may bleed through the paint. For
certain colors this may be a desirable
effect. To prevent bleed through, apply
a topcoat of satin finish polyurethane.
Allow the topcoat to dry and apply a
layer of water-based paint. To enhance
the illusion of age, apply a second coat
of paint in a different color. Once the
paint is dry, sand randomly chosen areas
with 100-grit sandpaper, varying the
sanding pressure (photo, left). Sand the
corners of the workpiece with 220-grit
sandpaper to complete this vintage
finish.
Stenciled Finish
Stenciled designs add a bright, decora-
tive touch to varnished or painted wood.
Purchase readymade stencils at a craft
store, or cut your own. Position the sten-
cil on the wood, and secure it with tape.
Stipple the wood by dabbing paint onto
the surface through the stencil, using a
stenciling brush (photo, left). Acrylic craft
paints are a good choice for stenciling, or
you can purchase special stenciling
paints. Allow the paint to dry before re-
moving the stencil. If more than one
color will be used, realign the stencil and
apply each color, one at a time, starting
with the lightest color. Allow the stenciled
area to dry completely and topcoat with a
clear finish for protection.
Color Wash
Color washes produce a thin, semi-
transparent coat of paint on bare wood.
Dilute water-based paint by mixing one
part paint to four parts water (the more
diluted the paint mixture, the thinner the
paint layer will be). Brush the thinned
paint onto the wood, working with the
grain. Wipe the surface immediately with
a lint-free cloth, removing paint until you
achieve the desired color tone (photo,
left). Repeat the process to darken the
color, if needed. Soften the look by scuff-
ing the painted surface with a fine abra-
sive pad when dry.
71Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P71 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06(Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
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Aged Finish
A n aged finish confers instant
character on any piece of
furniture. With not much more than
a wave of your magic paintbrush,
you can transform an ordinary new
piece of furniture into a treasure
that appears to have been part of
the family for generations.
The actual process of aging a fin-
ish is quite simple, but doing it
well takes some planning and a lit-
tle imagination. Before starting a
project, look at the piece carefully
and think about how it is used and
which areas would show wear if it
actually were old. Generally
speaking, wear first appears in the
areas where a piece is touched of-
ten—behind or around handles,
on the edges, at the backs of
seats, and in the center of the top
front rung of a chair. These are the
areas you should plan to distress.
EVERYTHING YOU NEED:
Tools: cordless screwdriver, 2" synthetic-bristle brush, 11⁄2" synthetic-bristle brush,
putty knife.
Materials: extra-fine sandpaper, tack cloth, soft cotton rags, small can of water-
Vintage pieces typically show wear in
based wood stain, furniture wax, flat-finish latex paint in a dark color, flat-finish la- the places where they’ve been handled
tex paint in lighter color, satin-finish polyurethane spray. for generations. Distressing the paint in
these areas creates an authentic look-
ing aged finish.
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How to Create an Aged Finish
Take out any drawers. Carefully remove all the hardware
1 from the piece. Most drawer handles have a screw (or two)
on the inside face of the drawer. Remove the screws and pull
2 Lightly sand the surface with fine-grit sandpaper. Sand—in
the direction of the grain—until the surface is smooth and
even. Remove the sanding dust with tack cloth.
off the handles. When removing hinges, support the door as
you remove the screws.
3 Stain the entire piece with dark water-based stain, such as
walnut or dark oak. Wipe on an even coat of stain, using a
brush or clean cloth. Let the stain penetrate the wood for about
4 Apply furniture wax to the areas you want to distress, such
as the edges and under any handles. Draw a quick sketch
of the piece and mark the areas where you have applied the
one minute, and then wipe off the excess with a clean, dry wax.
cloth. Let the stain dry for at least four hours.
(continued next page)
73Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P73 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black
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How to Create an Aged Finish (continued)
Working quickly, apply the darker paint color to the same
5 Apply the lighter paint color over one side of the piece,
painting with the grain of the wood. (Paint only one side at a 6 side of the piece, blending the darker paint into the lighter
shade. Continue painting one side at a time until the whole
time, because the paint must be wet for the next step.)
piece is painted. Let the paint dry at least 40 minutes, but no
longer than an hour.
7 Scrape the paint off the areas where you applied furniture
wax, using a putty knife. (If you don’t remember exactly 8Use fine-grit sandpaper to smooth any rough spots created
by the putty knife. Let the piece dry completely.
where you applied the wax, refer to the diagram you made in
Step 4.)
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9Spray a coat of polyurethane finish on the entire piece and
let it dry. Apply a second coat and let it dry. 10When the finish is completely dry, replace the hardware.
VARIATION: If you want paint rather than stain to show in the dis- being careful to sand only down to the first paint color.
tressed areas, paint the entire piece and let it dry. Next, apply
furniture wax to selected areas and then add the two paint colors
and let them dry. Sand away the paint over the waxed areas,
75Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P75 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black
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Aged Rubbed Finish
A rubbed finish is an easy and effective finish, especially on
light wood, such as pine or white fir. It isn’t necessary to
distress a rubbed finish, but it does lend a little more character to
EVERYTHING YOU NEED:
Tools: cordless screwdriver.
the piece.
Materials: medium-grit sandpaper, tack
cloth, painter’s tape (optional), thick white
When distressing a rubbed finish, remember that the paint should
cotton rag, flat interior latex paint, satin-
be thoroughly dry. If possible, let the piece dry overnight before
finish polyurethane spray.
you start distressing it. Also, remember that the more you sand, the
more worn the piece will appear. It’s easy to go back and sand
more but very difficult to successfully add paint, so work slowly
and evaluate your work periodically.
76
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How to Create an Aged, Rubbed Finish
Tape brown paper over any glass and remove any hardware Dip a thick cotton rag (a cloth diaper works great) into the
1 from the piece. If there are drawers, remove them. Lightly
sand the surfaces, and then remove the sanding dust, using a
2 paint. Using a back-and-forth motion and following the grain
of the paint, rub the paint into the wood. Let the piece dry
tack cloth. overnight.
Sand away some of the rubbed-on paint to reveal the wood Wipe the entire piece with a tack cloth to remove the paint
3 beneath. Concentrate on areas where wear would naturally
show—at corners, behind handles, and on the edges.
4 residue. When the entire piece is clean, apply a light coat
of clear polyurethane finish. Let the polyurethane dry, and then
add a second coat. Remove the masking tape and paper,
and set the piece aside to dry overnight. When the piece is
thoroughly dry, replace the hardware.
77Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P77 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black
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A sprayed finish is hard to beat for speed, convenience, and smooth, even Wipe-on
results. High quality spraying equipment is a critical component of a successful finish is fast and
sprayed finish. forgiving to apply
and requires very
little cleanup.
Applying Topcoats
T opcoat finishes seal the wood, protect the finish from
scratches and other wear, and increase the visual appeal
of the wood. Because they dry clear, topcoats highlight the color-
Brush-on
finish offers ex-
cellent coverage
and control, but
ing and natural figure of the wood. For most projects, a topcoat of is time consum-
tung oil finish, polyurethane, or paste wax will give your wood the ing to apply.
protection it needs and the finished appearance you desire.
When choosing a topcoat, consider durability, sheen, and compat-
ibility with any coloring layers. Other factors, like drying time, ease
of application and cleanup, and safeness, should also influence Rubbed
your choice. If possible, check samples at building centers or paint finish, such as
stores to see if a particular topcoat is suitable for your workpiece. paste wax, allows
you to control the
Some one-step stain-and-seal products are also available. Test level of gloss and
these products on scrap wood before using them. is easy to apply
The choice of finishing product is important, but so is the choice of and remove.
application technique. And in most cases, the two choices are
highly interrelated.
78
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Topcoating Finish
Products
Completely understanding
wood finish products requires
an advanced degree in chem-
istry, but for the fairly narrow
application of topcoating furni-
ture and wood floors and trim,
a little general information goes
a long way.
As the wood finish products
have advanced and matured,
the differences between them
have narrowed. Where once it
was useful to talk about water-
base versus oil-base or shellac
versus varnish, modern finish
products seek to exploit the Penetrating oils are formulated to soak into the wood pores and leave their protec-
best qualities of all types (as tive molecules behind, creating a deeper and more scratch resistant topcoat. These
finishes contain slow-curing solvents such as linseed or tung oil that allow the
well as the most profitable resins to be drawn more deeply into the wood.
manufacturing processes) to
the point that the industry is
fairly well hybridized. The im-
portant questions now concern
the users’ needs and prefer-
ences, particularly when it
comes to favorite method of
application.
If you’re looking for a finish
that’s fast and virtually fool-
proof, try a wipe-on product.
These may be called wipe-on
varnish, gel varnish, wipe-on
polyurethane, or simply wipe-
on finish. You apply the prod-
uct with a clean rag and wait
for it to dry. Multiple layers are
usually required.
If you’re looking for a finish that
doesn’t have that characteristic Film-forming finishes include shellacs,
lacquer, polyurethane and various types
plastic look when it dries, avoid
of varnish. They are far and away the
polyurethane varnish and other largest class of finish, and in general
polymerized products. Instead, they are easy to apply. They can be
use nonpolymerized tung-oil water-based, oil-based or even a combi-
finish or shellac (either pre- nation of the two. Look for product that
mixed or flakes). is designed and labeled for your applica-
tion: for example, “floor finish.”
For a finish that is easy to ap-
ply, dries instantly, and is re- Paste wax does not penetrate the
wood at all, but resides on the surface
pairable, try paste wax.
so it is easy to strip off and refresh.
79Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P79 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black
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Tips for Applying Wood Finishes
Stir topcoat finishes thoroughly with a clean stir stick. Shak- Transfer leftover topcoat materials to smaller containers to
ing the container or stirring too vigorously can create air bub- minimize the amount of air that can react with the product.
bles that cause pockmarks in the finish when it dries. Tung oil and polyurethane are especially susceptible to thick-
ening when exposed to air.
Strain finishes. The lower solvent con- Make tack cloths by moistening cheesecloth in mineral spirits. Apply a spoonful of
tent of water-based varnish makes it varnish (or any other clear topcoat material) to the cheesecloth, and knead the cloth
easier on your nose, but it’s more likely until the varnish is absorbed evenly. Make several tack cloths and store them in a
to leave undissolved bits in the can. glass jar with a lid.
Strain it through a paper filter.
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Right Wrong
Sand between topcoat layers, using 600-grit wet/dry sandpa- Apply polyurethane in several thin layers (left) for best results.
per, to smooth out the finish. Wipe down the worksurface with a Applying too much finish at once (right) slows down the drying
tack cloth after sanding. Save time and ensure better results by time, and causes running, wrinkling, or sagging.
creating a clean, dust-free work area.
Brush out lap marks to create a smooth surface before the Examine the surface after each coat of polyurethane dries,
polyurethane dries. Small brush marks will show, but will blend using a bright side light. Wet-sand with a fine abrasive pad to
together as the finish dries. Because it dries slowly, oil-based remove dust and other surface problems, like air bubbles.
polyurethane gives you more time to brush out lap marks. After sanding, wipe the surface clean with a tack cloth.
81Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P81 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
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Penetrating Oil Finishes
P enetrating oil is an excellent
product for creating even,
natural wood tones that do not
obscure the wood grain. Often
called Danish oil or rubbing oil,
most penetrating oil can be
buffed to a hard surface after
application. When applied to
decorative items and furni-
ture that does not receive a
significant amount of wear,
penetrating oil can be used
without additional topcoating for
a deep, low-luster finish.
When using penetrating oil, be
sure to follow the manufacturer’s
recommendations for application and
drying time. In some woods, oil finishes
will seep out of wood pores for up to 72
hours while the finish dries.
EVERYTHING YOU NEED:
Materials: staining cloths, penetrating oil,
fine abrasive pads. Apply penetrating oil in heavy coats, using a clean staining rag.
Tips for Using Penetrating Oil
Clean the surfaces thoroughly with a cloth and mineral spirits Buff penetrating oil finishes to increase sheen. For a higher
before applying any finish product. It is very important when gloss, buff the surface with a power polisher or a polishing
applying penetrating oil to create clean wood surfaces so the bonnet and a cordless drill.
product is not blocked from the wood pores.
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How to Apply Penetrating Oil
Prepare for the stain, then apply a heavy coat of penetrating Wipe the surface dry with a clean cloth, rubbing with the
1 oil to all surfaces, using a staining cloth. Wait 15 to 30 min-
utes, recoating any areas that begin to dry out. Apply oil to all
2 wood grain. Apply another coat of oil with a clean cloth, then
let the oil dry overnight. N : Two coats are sufficient in most
OTE
surfaces, and let it soak into the wood for 30 to 60 minutes. cases, since further coats will not darken the finish color.
Dab a few drops of penetrating oil onto a fine abrasive pad,
3 then rub the surfaces until smooth. Let the oil dry for at least
72 hours before applying a topcoat. If you do not plan to top-
4Wet-sand with a fine abrasive pad on the final topcoat layer
to create a finish with the exact amount of gloss you want.
coat the finish, buff with a soft cloth to harden the oil finish.
83Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P83 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black
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Film-coating Finishes
F ilm-forming finishes are applied to the wood
surface by wiping, brushing, or spraying and
they form a protective layer as the solvent evapo-
rates. Common types include polyurethane (both
water-based and oil-based), oil-based varnish (in-
cluding spar varnish), shellac, and lacquer. See the
discussion on page 79 for more information on
choosing finish products.
Start with a thinned coat when applying a film-forming
finish. In a separate container, use the solvent or thin-
ner recommended on the product label to reduce the
thickness of the finish so it is almost watery. Allow
plenty of time for this thinned base coat to dry and
then begin applying addiitonal layers. It is always bet-
ter to apply many thin coats than a couple of thick
ones (a typical shellac finish, for example, should
have six coats or more).
Most film finishes should be sanded or buffed lightly
between coats. One exception is shellac—because
the alcohol solvent dissolves the previous coats when
Versatile and easy to use, film-forming finishes like water- a new coat is applied, sanding is pointless. The final
based polyurethane are very popular. coat should be sanded or buffed, however.
Choosing Finish Gloss
Film-forming finishes dry to various surface sheens including satin, semi-gloss, and Mix your own shellac by dissolving
gloss. However, a gloss varnish can be dulled to lesser sheens by rubbing it with steel shellac flakes in denatured alcohol.
wool or fine abrasives. Available in orange (also called amber),
garnet, and blonde colors, natural shel-
lac has a nearly unlimited shelf life in
flake form and is pleasant to work with.
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How to Apply Film-coating Finishes
Seal unstained wood with a 1:1 mixture of polyurethane and Apply a coat of polyurethane, starting at the top of the proj-
1 thinning agent (check product label), applied with a clean
cloth or brush. Let the sealer dry. Wipe off excess sealer with a
2 ect and working your way down. Use a good-quality brush.
When the surface is covered, smooth out the finish by lightly
clean cloth. NOTE: Furniture that has been colored with stain or brushing in one direction only, parallel to the grain. Let dry,
penetrating oil does not need a seal-coat. then sand between coats, using 600-grit wet/dry sandpaper.
Apply the second coat. To keep the finish from running, al- O : After the final coat dries, wet-sand the surface with
3 ways try to position the workpiece so the surface being top-
coated is horizontal.
4 PTION
a fine abrasive pad to remove any small imperfections and
diminish the gloss.
85Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P85 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06(Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
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Sprayed
Finishes
S prayed finishes aren’t just for
professionals anymore. Even
for DIYers spraying is a fast, effi-
cient process that can consistently
deliver furniture finishes that are
smoother than most of us could
ever hope to create with a brush.
Provided, that is, that the equip-
ment is used correctly.
The sprayers that are best suited
for home use by DIYers are HVLP
sprayers and airless spraying
equipment. Previously, a sprayed
finish could only be accomplished
with an aerosol can or a compres-
sor-driven spray gun. Aerosol
cans are still available and make
sense for topcoating small proj-
ects in some cases, but they are
HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) sprayers have made it possible even for beginners
to achieve the smoothness of surface and ease of application that can only be accom-
plised by spraying.
Two Types of HVLP Sprayers
Turbine-driven HVLP sprayers have a self-contained turbine Compressor-driven HVLP sprayers are supplied by an air
blower that supplies large volumes of uncompressed air compressor, usually at least 3 hp and 20 gallons in size. They
through the sprayer nozzle, atomizing the finish material and function similarly to turbine-style models, except the product is
dispensing it in a soft, manageable mist. not warmed up (which can cause the finish to dry too quickly).
86
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Rear plug
Collar
Fluid
knob
Air cap
Fluid tube
Trigger
Cup
Gravity feed HVLP spray guns have A typical siphon-feed HVLP spray gun has an inlet in the gun handle that allows
a small finish cup that’s mounted at the compressed air from the turbine or compressor to flow up through an air valve and into
top of the gun so it flows down into the a fluid valve, where the air forces the finish out through a needle and then a nozzle,
nozzle unassisted. Guns with bottom- which atomizes the finish into a fine mist.
mounted cups rely on suction created
by the sprayer turbine or comrpessor to
siphon the material up and into the SPRAY FINISH IN A CAN
nozzle.
You don’t need to own a
single piece of spraying
very limited in selection and they
equipment to be able to
are relatively costly. Best suited for
apply a sprayed finish to
auto body work, pneumatic spray
your finishing projects
guns deliver far too much product
at home. Most finish
far too quickly for wood furniture
materials are available in
finishing. In contrast, HVLP (High
aerosol-style spray cans.
Volume Low Pressure) sprayers
While convenient, these
are easy to use and create mini-
products contain very
mal amounts of overspray. Most
high concentrations of
HVLP sprayers have a turbine
thinner — expect to ap-
blower that supplies the high-vol-
ply twice as many coats
ume airflow necessary to atomize
as you would with an
the liquid being sprayed, but
HVLP sprayer.
some newer models convert com-
pressed air into a soft spray that’s
suitable for furniture applications.
(continued next page)
87Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P87 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black
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IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTICE:
Spraying Booth Use this spray booth only
when spraying non-flammable
Spraying on a finish creates adequate ventilation. It also lets finish materials.
hazardous vapor and messy dry, airborne atomized finish hover
Flammable vapor created by the
overspray. For your protection over your project and finally settle
sprayer could come in contact
and convenience, do as much of onto the wet finish layer, contami-
with the electric fan motor, po-
the spraying as possible outdoors, nating it.
tentially causing combustion or
making sure to direct the spray
The best solution for indoor spray- an explosion. To spray flamma-
away from houses, cars, and
ing is to purchase a professional ble finish products such as lac-
neighboring property.
spray booth. But few of us have quer, oil-base stains and
You will encounter times and situa- the floorspace or money ($5,000 topcoats, shellac, or adhesives,
tions, however, where spraying on and up) to justify the purchase. work outdoors or use a fan with
a finish outdoors is not practical or For less than $100 you can create an explosion-proof motor or a
smart. For those times when you your own portable spray booth us- motor that’s shielded from the
must spray indoors, simply open- ing sheet plastic, furnace filters, a spray area.
ing a nearby window won’t provide box fan, and a window.
Use a Zip-Wall system, plastic sheeting,
and frames to create a three-wall booth
that butts up against the window wall.
Fan that moves at least 2,000 cubic
feet of air per minute and has con-
trols that can be accessed from the
top. Place between filter and win-
dow, pointed outside.
20" × 20"
furnace filter
Shroud taped together
from old cardboard
Lazy Susan turntable
Always wear a
cartridge-style,
full-mask respirator
and goggles when
spraying.
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Tips for Preparing to Spray
Collar
Air cap
Optimize the spray pattern. Loosen the collar and turn the Thin the finish or paint according to the recommendations on
air cap as far counterclockwise as it goes and then tighten the the container and following the guidelines for your sprayer.
collar.
Test the spray pattern by filling the cup and spraying onto a Position a light so the surface you’re spraying is reflective (the
piece of cardboard that’s propped up in a vertical position. angle of incidence should equal the angle of reflection—i.e., if
Spray enough material so the spray pattern area starts to run we’re viewing the surface from a 30° angle, the light should be
down in drips. When the drips are spaced roughly the same positioned at a 30° angle on the opposite side.
distance apart, the sprayer is adjusted correctly.
(continued next page)
89Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P89 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black
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How to Apply a Sprayed Finish
Fill the HVLP sprayer cup with finishing product, thinned to the consis- Set the object in the spray area and wipe it with
1 tency recommended in your sprayer manual. Adjust the air cap and noz-
zle to the desired spray pattern. Test the spray on a cardboard box to make
2 a slightly dampened cloth (if you’re applying
water-based finish) or a tack cloth to remove dust
sure it is spraying at the desired volume and pattern. and debris particles.
When finishing objects with legs, turn the object upside- Spin the object (a Lazy Susan turntable is a great help when
3 down and spray the underside first. The spray gun works
best when holding the spray gun 8" to 10" away from the target
4 spraying small objects in a booth) or circulate around larger
objects. Spray in a level, side-to-side sweeping motion, releas-
and spraying at a slight downward angle . ing the trigger after each pass.
90
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Turn the object over and set the feet on small blocks to get Move the gun back and forth across the flat surface to finish
5 them off the spraying surface (take care not to disturb the
finished areas of the object). To spray a flat surface such as a
6 spraying the first coat. Visually inspect to make sure you
haven’t missed spots. This is where a good sidelight (like the
stool seat or tabletop, begin by spraying the edge all the way one seen in step 1) really comes in handy. Let the finish dry,
around. TIP: Apply only light coats. The most frequent mistake and recoat as desired. See your manual for suggestions about
made by beginners is to apply a heavy coat that sags or runs. leaving the finish in the sprayer between coats—you may be
able to save yourself some time and effort.
When you’re done spraying, return leftover finish to its con- Disassemble the gun and wash the internal and external
7 tainer and fill the cup with warm water. Run water through
the gun for a minute or so to rinse the tubes, valves, needle
8 parts with solvent (water, in the photo above). Let the cup
dry before reattaching it to the gun for storage.
and nozzle, spraying newsprint or cardboard.
91Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P91 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black
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Applying
Paste Wax
W ax is an easily renewable
topcoat that protects
and beautifies wood. It is often
applied over oil finishes and other
topcoats to absorb small scratches
and everyday wear and tear. Then,
simply by removing the old wax
and applying a fresh coat, you can
create a new-looking topcoat with-
out refinishing.
Paste wax is the best wax product
for wood because it can be buffed
to a hard finish. But other types of
wax, like liquid wax, can be used
for specific purposes.
Apply several coats of paste wax
for best results. The smoothness
of a wax finish is a direct result of
the thickness of the wax, and the
hardness and sheen are related to
the vigor with which it is buffed.
For the hardest possible finish,
choose products with a high ratio
of wax to solvent (see label).
Use liquid wax on detailed areas, where paste wax is difficult A polisher (or a power drill fitted with a polishing bonnet) lets
to apply. Apply the wax with a stiff brush, then buff with a soft you buff your wax finish to a high gloss without incurring any
cloth. repetitive motion injuries from hand buffing.
92
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How to Apply Paste Wax
Load a cheesecloth or wiping rag with Rub the wax onto the wood through Allow the wax to dry until it becomes
1 a ball of wax and squeeze lightly. The
heat from your hand will help liquify the
2 the cloth, using a polishing motion.
Don’t be too skimpy here—refill the cloth
3filmy in spots.
wax to make it easier to apply as it seeps as often as is needed. Don’t let any of
out through the cloth. the applied wax rest on the wood for
more than five minutes.
Buff out the wax with a soft, absorbent cloth using a light, Continue buffing the wax until the surface is hard and shiny.
4 circular motion. Buff the entire surface until the filminess dis-
appears and the wax is clear.
5 The more you buff, the shinier the surface will get. You may
also use a polishing bonnet on a power polisher or drill. If the
surface is not as smooth as you’d like, apply another coat of
paste wax.
93Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P93 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06(Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
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Hardware &
Accessories
R estoring or replacing
accessories, like hardware,
glass, or upholstery, is usually the
last step in the refinishing process.
Give these finishing touches the
same careful attention you gave to
refinishing the wood.
Before you reinstall hardware or
nonwood accessories, inspect
their condition. Tarnished metal or
worn accessories can detract from
the project. Whenever possible,
use the original hardware instead
of replacing it, since it will match
the style of the piece and fit in the
original position. To find replace-
ment parts, contact suppliers of
reproduction hardware and acces-
sories. NOTE: Contact a profes-
Bright new hardware and accessories can give refinished furniture a beautiful finish- sional before repairing or
ing touch. replacing electrical parts.
Sources for Replacement Items
Visit salvage yards and antique shops Check catalogs for reproduction parts if Order custom-made accessories for
to search for hardware and accessories. you are unable to find authentic hard- unusual and hard-to-find replacement
If you can find a good match, using the ware and accessories. Most woodwork- items, like beveled glass panels. Check
authentic parts is usually preferable to er’s stores can provide information on your phone book and local woodworker’s
using reproduction parts. obtaining catalogs of reproduction parts. stores for names of crafters.
94
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Tips for Cleaning Hardware & Accessories
Use chemical strippers to remove old paint from hardware. Use a wire wheel attachment on a bench grinder or portable
Soak hardware in a jar of stripper, then scrub clean. Use a drill to remove old paint or rust. Unlike chemical stripping,
detail brush or an old toothbrush to get into crevices. Rinse grinding off the old finish removes rust and defects, as well as
hardware in mineral spirits, then dry immediately. Polish with old finish materials. Do not grind brass or plated metal.
metal polish and a soft cloth.
Remove paint and chemicals from glass on refinished items, Test the colorfastness of upholstery before attempting to
using a razor blade scraper. After scraping, wash the glass with wash it. Gently rub a damp, white cloth on the fabric and look
a 1:1 mixture of hot water and ammonia to remove any residue. for color on the cloth. Color on the cloth indicates the fabric is
not colorfast, and should be dry-cleaned. If it is colorfast, hand
wash with a mild laundry detergent.
95Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P95 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black
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Tips for Removing & Reattaching Hardware
Clean paint from screw slots using a Remove stripped screws by driving a Carefully slice paint between hardware
craft knife or razor blade to clear the screwdriver into the slot with a sharp rap plates and the wood, using a craft knife.
slots for a screwdriver. Always use a from a hammer. OPTION: To remove This lets you remove hardware without
screwdriver with the proper blade size larger stripped screws, drill a pilot hole, extensive prying that can damage the
to match the screw slot. then use a reverse-threaded screw ex- wood and the hardware plate.
tractor bit (inset photo).
Reassemble hardware, like most door- Fill old screw holes with wood putty or Cover hardware with masking tape prior
knob-and-latch assemblies, immediately filler (top). Drill new pilot holes before re- to removal to prevent damage during re-
after removal so you do not lose any of placing the hardware. OPTION: Glue ta- moval and reinstallation. One slip of the
the small parts. pered wood plugs or dowels into screw screwdriver can cause major damage to
holes to provide wood for the screw unprotected metal.
threads to grip (bottom).
96
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Tips for Removing & Reinstalling Glass
Protect against broken glass by taping Soften hardened putty around a win- Use a brad pusher, not a tack hammer,
both sides of the pane with masking tape dow frame by applying paint thinner to for driving brads to secure glass panels
around the edges and across the center. the putty. Scrape out the softened putty and retainer strips in furniture. Even a
This will not prevent breakage, but it will with a detail scraper before you remove lightweight hammer can break glass or
hold shattered glass safely in the glass the glass panel. split retainer strips.
frame.
Tips for Reupholstering
Use seat boards or other appropriate Align the fabric by marking centerpoints Trim excess fabric after attaching the
furniture parts as a pattern for the new on the seat board. Cut a notch in the corners and edges.
fabric when you are unable to use the midpoint of each edge of the fabric, then
original fabric as a pattern. Cut the new align the notches with the marks on the
fabric slightly oversize, to allow for trim- groundwork. Secure fabric edges first,
ming later. then tack down the corners.
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Case Studies
98
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Case Studies
I f you show an old rocking
chair to a dozen professional
wood refinishers, you will probably
a series of challenges and solu-
tions. On the following pages we
have assembled a group of suc-
failure of each project.
To use this section, flip through
the pages and note the special
get at least a half-dozen very dif- cessful case studies in refinishing features of each project: the type
ferent suggestions about the best and finishing. Because there is of wood, the old finish, and any
way to tackle the job. Some meth- no way to show the techniques unique challenges it presents.
ods may be better than others, but for every imaginable project, we Look for similarities between the
there is seldom only one workable have presented these case stud- case studies shown here and any
solution. ies to give you a glimpse into the projects you are considering. At
Like most do-it-yourself projects, decision-making process that the same time, pay close attention
refinishing wood is essentially helps determine the success or to the reasons behind the deci-
100
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sions: why did we only use a heat
gun to partially strip the surfaces? Index to Case Studies:
• Rocking Chair . . . . . . . . . . . . .pages 102 to 103 • Antique Mantel Clock . . . . .pages 116 to 117
What kinds of stain were used to
• Sewing Machine Cabinet . . . .pages 104 to 105 • Tip-Top Table . . . . . . . . . . .pages 118 to 119
make two different wood types
look the same? • Dining Chair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .pages 106 to 107 • Music Cabinet . . . . . . . . . . .pages 120 to 121
• Reproduction Mission • Antique Radio Console . . . .pages 122 to 123
In short, use this section to gain
Finish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .pages 108 to 109 • Double-hung Window . . . .pages 124 to 125
refinishing and finishing “experi-
• Chest of Drawers . . . . . . . . . .pages 110 to 111 • Woodwork & Door . . . . . . . .pages 126 to 129
ence”—but without any of the
mess and fuss. • Frame-and-panel Cabinet . . .pages 112 to 113 • Wood Floor . . . . . . . . . . . . .pages 130 to 133
• Cedar Chest . . . . . . . . . . . . . .pages 114 to 115 • School Desks . . . . . . . . . . .pages 134 to 135
101Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) P101
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Case Studies
Rocking Chair
Wood type: White oak
Old finish: Multiple layers of paint
and varnish
Challenge: To strip the old, thick
finish from the spindles, arms, and
rungs
Solution: Apply chemical strip-
per, then scrub with an abrasive
pad to remove topcoats; remove
stain from wood using sanding
cord and strips of sanding belt
O nce a staple of American
household furnishings,
pressback rocking chairs can still
be found in just about any attic or
antique shop. With their trademark
spindles and ornate backrest de-
signs, these rockers present an
amazing amount of detailed sur-
face area to challenge the refin-
isher. But with some creative
sanding and scraping tools, re-
moving the old finish is a very
manageable task. By strengthen-
ing a joint or two and applying a
new finish, we were able to save
our chair from an early retirement.
Remove the old finish (pages 36 to 45). We chemically Clean up the details. We used an artists’ modeling tool to
1 stripped and scraped the paint and varnish in the flat areas,
using a broad scraper. Then we chemically stripped the spin-
2 scrape the finish and stripper residue from the relief design
in the backrest. Because stripper softens wood, be very careful
dles, arms, legs, and rungs, using an abrasive pad to scrub off when using sharp scrapers, especially in delicate areas.
the old finish.
102
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Make basic repairs (pages 46 to 53). The primary struc- Prepare for the finish (pages 54 to 59). We gave the chair
3 tural joints in our chair were sound, but a few interior spin-
dles had loosened. We injected joint sweller into the joints at
4 an intermediate sanding to remove a few nicks and
scratches, then filled a few larger gouges and scratches with
the top and bottom of each loose spindle (page 48). untinted wood putty. To finish-sand the chair, we used strips
from a sanding belt on the spindles and sanding cord on the
grooves. It was neither necessary nor desirable to completely
remove all the old color. Leaving a little bit of color in older
projects creates a more natural, antique finish.
Apply the topcoat (pages 78 to 81). Round or detailed
5 Color the wood (pages 60 to 65). We used a brush to
apply liquid light-oak stain to the backrest and seat, but we 6 parts are hard to finish with a paintbrush, so we applied tung
oil with a wiping rag. We buffed the finish with a fine abrasive
used a rag on the spindles and the other round parts. The stain
evened out the color of the chair and added richness to the wood. pad after the third coat of oil to harden the surface.
103
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Case Studies
Sewing Machine Cabinet
Wood types: Walnut and
walnut veneer
Old finish: Multiple lay-
ers of paint and varnish
Challenge: To remove
the old finish without
damaging the veneer
Solution: Heat-strip
the paint from the flat
wood surface; chemi-
cally strip the veneer
and the intricate parts
of the cabinet
A marvel of modern engineering back
in the 1940s, this electric sewing ma-
chine had become obsolete. Several poor
paint jobs had transformed the cabinet into an
ugly duckling that was completely forgettable.
But on close examination, the hardwood cabi-
net was still in good condition and seemed to
be worth refinishing. Now, refinished to show-
case its lustrous walnut and walnut veneer, the
sewing machine cabinet has reclaimed its sta-
tus as a piece of fine furniture.
Remove the hardware (pages 94 to 96). The door pulls Remove the old finish (pages 36 to 45). We used a heat
1 and the brass sewing machine hinges connecting the table-
top extension to the cabinet were covered with paint but in
2 gun and scraper to strip the multiple layers of paint from the
flat, solid hardwood surfaces. Once these surfaces were heat-
good operating condition. We carefully removed the hardware, stripped we were better able to evaluate the condition of the
including the sewing machine, for cleaning and to create better wood, and we decided not to risk heat stripping the veneer.
access to the wood for refinishing. Stripping the larger surfaces first can give you a lot of helpful in-
formation early in the project.
104
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Clean up the details. We chemically Prepare for the finish (pages 54 to Color and top-coat the wood
3 stripped the delicate carved legs and
veneered doors. Specialty scrapers
4 59). The only surface preparation re-
quired was a light sanding to help the
5 (pages 60 to 65 and 78 to 93). We
applied a coat of medium-tone walnut
(page 29) made removing the sludge new stain absorb evenly. We were care- stain to enhance the wood grain and
simple. Finally, we wiped the entire cabi- ful to avoid oversanding the veneer on even out the color. Then we applied a
net clean with an abrasive pad and de- the doors, which had lovely bookmatch three-layer topcoat of clear tung oil for a
natured alcohol. patterns. hard, antique-looking finish.
Clean the hardware (pages 94 to 96). Reattach the hardware. To give the screws more holding power, we filled the old
6 We cleaned the casing of the sewing
machine with a penetrating lubricant, and
7 screw holes with wood putty and drilled new pilot holes. We considered leaving the
sewing machine out to increase the storage capacity of the cabinet, but because the
we soaked the hardware in chemical machine makes an interesting conversation piece, we reinstalled it in the cabinet.
stripper, then scrubbed it with a brush.
Buffing with brass polish put a nice
gleam on all the metal.
105Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06(Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) P105
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Case Studies
Dining Chair
Wood type: White oak
Old finish: Dark stain, varnish
Challenge: Fix the splintered,
chipped edges of the chair legs
Solution: Use a router and
roundover bit to trim away the
damaged edges of the legs
D ining chairs take a real beating just from
daily use. The oak dining chair shown here
was no exception. When we found it, it was chipped,
splintered, and dirty. Because it was no longer part of
a dining-room set, we had no real restrictions on
choosing a refinishing strategy for the chair. If there
are matching table and chairs, you must usually refin-
ish the entire set, because matching the other pieces
can be quite difficult. If only one or two of the chairs
in a set need refinishing, try using quick fixes (see
pages 136 to 139) to take care of the problems.
Remove the old finish (pages 36 to 45). After removing Make basic repairs (pages 46 to 51). Like many older
1 the seat, we used chemical stripper and scrapers to take off
the old varnish (mineral spirits will dissolve pure varnish, but
2 chairs, ours had become a little wobbly. We tightened the
screws at the corner blocks, but the wobble persisted. So we
stripper is faster and more thorough). We wiped the chair with drilled a hole through the joint that caused the wobble, then in-
mineral spirits to clean off any traces of stripper or varnish. jected epoxy glue into the hole. The wobble disappeared.
106
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Prepare for the finish (pages 54 Color and top-coat the wood (pages
3 Round over the legs. Instead of
repairing the many gouges and splin- 4 to 59). We sanded the chair to get rid 5 60 to 65 and 78 to 93). We used
medium-dark walnut stain to even out the
ters on the legs, we rounded the outside of a few scratches and gouges, then
corners of the legs with a router and 3⁄8", filled the remaining flaws with untinted color of the wood and to give us a “Mis-
piloted roundover bit. A plane or spoke- wood putty. We finish-sanded the entire sion” type finish to match the style of the
shave also can be used, but be very chair to remove some color and create a chair. To more easily top-coat the slats
careful not to remove too much wood. smooth surface for staining. and crevices, we used three coats of
wipe-on tung oil.
Seat board
Foam pad Seat frame
Polyester batting
Reupholster the seat (page 97). We removed the old up- Reattach the seat. To secure the reupholstered seat, we
6 holstery, then used the seat as a pattern to cut foam rubber
and polyester batting to fit over the seat board. We chose new
7 12
drove 1 ⁄ " screws through the corner braces of the chair
frame and into the seat board.
upholstery to complement the finish, and stapled it onto the
seat frame over the batting and foam.
107
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Case Studies
Reproduction
Mission Finish
C lassic Mission furniture
was finished by a process
called fuming, where the oak is
exposed to ammonia fumes that
cause the wood to darken and take
on a more even tone (regular pig-
ment stains tend to leave oak look-
ing fairly blotchy, as the pores and
rays of the wood accept the stain
very differently). Fuming is still
done, but it is a highly toxic
process. The finish applied here
replicates the characteristic warm
glow associated with Mission furni-
ture, but uses aniline wood dye
(see page 61) suspended in dena-
tured alcohol to color the wood
(dye penetrates the oak pores
more deeply and evenly than pig-
ment). Oak tends to look better
Wood type: Oak with a thin topcoat of finish, so we
Old finish: None applied a finish of orange shellac
Challenge: Replicate classic Mission-style finish flakes and then blonde shellac
Solution: Stain with aniline dye and top-coat with multiple dissolved in alcohol, which is very
thin coats of orange and blonde shellac easy to thin and apply.
1Sand the furniture up to 150 grit and wipe dust away with a
tack cloth. See pages 54 to 59. 2 Mix finishing products. We used aniline dye suspended in
denatured alcohol (left) for the coloring agent, and orange and
blonde shellac flakes dissolved in alcohol for a topcoat (right).
108
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Wipe the wood surfaces with a tack cloth (see page 80). If the wood is too dark (note that the topcoat will darken the
3 Brush on the dye stain, beginning with the table legs and
working upward. Stain the table top last. If the wood is too dark
4 color), wipe the surfaces with a clean rag and alcohol. If the
wood is too light, reapply the dye (unlike pigment stain, dye
when the stain dries, wipe down with alcohol. If it is too light, stain will darken with repeated applications).
reapply.
Sand lightly with 400-grit paper and then mix and apply
5 three or four thin coats of orange shellac dissolved in alco-
hol. Use a high-quality China bristle brush, beginning at the top
6Buff the final coat of shellac to a high gloss with a fine
abrasive pad.
and working your way downward. Apply three or four thin coats
of blonde shellac (multiple colors enhance the finish depth).
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Case Studies
Chest of Drawers
Wood type: Pine
Old finish: Shel-
lac
Challenge:
Tighten drawer
joints
Solution:
Disassemble
and reglue
loose joints
P ine is a very traditional wood for
household furnishings, largely
for its availability and rustic appear-
ance. It is a soft, workable wood, which
adds to its popularity, but makes it sus-
ceptible to damage. This chest of
drawers shows what can happen to
poorly protected pine. But because
pine is simple to repair, we were able
to restore our chest of drawers easily.
Remove the old finish (pages to 36 to 45). We pulled out Make basic repairs (pages 46 to 53). For long-lasting
1 the drawers and removed the drawer hardware first (page 96),
then we scrubbed the chest carcass and the drawer fronts with
2 repairs, we disassembled the loose dovetail joints in two of
the drawers, then cleaned out the old glue with a file. We glued
a medium abrasive pad dipped in denatured alcohol—the and reassembled the joints, then clamped the drawers with
mildest solvent that is effective on shellac. pipe clamps.
110
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Prepare for the finish (pages 54 to 59). We sanded the Color the wood (pages 60 to 65). We applied sanding
3 carcass and the drawer fronts with a finishing sander to
eliminate many of the nicks and scratches. Then we filled the
4 sealer to the entire chest of drawers to seal the soft, ab-
sorbent wood. Then we stained the wood with a light cherry liq-
larger scratches and gouges with wood putty, and finish- uid stain to add interest to the pine and even out the color. We
sanded the carcass and the drawer fronts. applied the stain in thin coats until we had an even finish color.
Apply a topcoat (pages 78 to 93). We applied semi-gloss Install new hardware (pages 94 to 96). We purchased
5 polyurethane to the chest of drawers for a durable topcoat.
We brushed on three coats, sanding with a fine abrasive pad
6 new Colonial-style drawer pulls that are very similar to the
original hardware, although slightly larger. Often, metal hard-
between coats. ware affects the color of the wood below, so it is usually best
to purchase replacement hardware that is slightly larger than
the original hardware. We also coated the drawer glides with
beeswax for smoother operation.
111Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) P111
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Case Studies
Frame-and-panel
Cabinet
Wood type: Solid
oak cabinet with
oak veneer top
Old finish: Shellac
Challenge:
Remove the old
topcoat without
further damag-
ing the veneer
on the cabinet
top
Solution:
Strip the ve-
neer top with
alcohol and
the rest of the
cabinet with
chemical
stripper
T his frame-and-panel cabinet
once housed an electrical
appliance (probably a sewing ma-
chine) that has long since vanished.
But the cabinet itself remained in
good condition—a fine example of
1920s Arts-and-Crafts styling. With a
few repairs and a new, lighter finish,
it was ready for a second life as a
unique storage cabinet.
Remove the old finish (pages 36 to 45). We used denatured
1 Make repairs to the cabinet. An appliqué on one door was
missing a section. Making a new section was a job for a 2 alcohol and an abrasive pad to strip the old shellac from the
cabinet top, which had some loose veneer on one edge. Alcohol
woodcarver, so we removed the doors, then chiseled off the
missing section’s counterpart on the other door, creating a evaporates quickly, so it is less likely than most other solvents to
symmetrical look. We did this repair before stripping, so the seep under the loose veneer and dissolve the glue.
wood beneath the removed appliqué section would blend in
better.
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Strip the doors and the body of the cabinet. We switched Repair the veneer (pages 52 to 53). Although the veneer
3 to a semi-paste chemical stripper for the doors and the rest
of the cabinet. Semi-paste stripper clings to uneven surfaces,
4 on our cabinet top had loosened in spots, there was no
significant damage. To repair it, we cleaned out beneath the
like the appliqués and the egg-and-dart beading on the side veneer in the loosened areas along the edges, then injected
and back panels, without drying out or running off. We used a glue under the sections. We rolled the veneer with a wallpaper
variety of brushes and specialty scrapers (page 29) to clean roller, then covered the repair with wax paper and clamped it
the stripper sludge from the intricate areas. down to dry.
Apply a topcoat (pages 78 to 93). Stripping and light sand- Hang the doors. The frame-and-panel cabinet presented
5 ing brought out a light, even color tone to the cabinet, so we
decided not to stain the wood. We simply rubbed on three layers
6 many storage possibilities: a small entertainment center, a
magazine rack, or a garage for small appliances, for example.
of wipe-on gel varnish (applied like gel stain, page 65) for a It would take only a few shelves or drawers to accommodate
clear, antique-looking topcoat. any of these uses. We left the cabinet open so the new owner
could customize the storage area for his or her needs.
113
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Case Studies
Cedar Chest
T
Wood type: Cedar
his cedar chest is a good example of the type Old finish: Shellac and wax
of project that causes a dilemma for refinishers: Challenge: Renew the worn, scratched-up appearance
how to recondition a rough, worn project without sacri- Solution: Sand down to bare wood and apply a new topcoat
ficing its antique charm. The chest was so worn out
that fairly radical measures would be required to get it down, and once the project was complete, we knew
back in shape. After we removed the old topcoat, the we had made the right decision—the gleaming new
many scratches and gouges in the chest top made it finish helped the natural beauty of the cedar chest
clear that the old finish had to go. So we sanded it shine through.
Remove the old finish (pages 36 to 45). The old, gummy Sand down to bare wood. We used a belt sander with
1 shellac-and-wax finish stripped off easily with denatured
alcohol and an abrasive pad, revealing the true condition of
2 120-grit sandpaper on the chest top to remove most of the
scratches and gouges. We used a finishing sander on the
the wood. sides, front, and back.
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Prepare for the finish (pages 54 to 59). We used wood Apply decorative coloring (pages 60 to 65). Traditionally,
3 putty to fill a large crack in the top of the chest, as well as a
few small scratches and nicks that survived the first round of
4 cedar chests are left unstained, so we used stain only to re-
store the decorative banding on the top and front of the chest.
sanding. We tinted the stainable wood putty to match the color To keep the stain from bleeding outside the banding areas, we
of the surrounding wood. cut around the outlines with a craft knife, sealed the chest with
sanding sealer, and masked the adjacent areas with tape. We
used red mahogany stain to re-create the banding.
Apply the topcoat (pages 78 to 93). We used three coats Attach the hardware (pages 94 to 96). The roller mecha-
5 of paste wax for a hand-rubbed, antique finish. We used
paste wax because it can be renewed easily if the chest be-
6 nisms on our chest were too badly rusted to salvage, so we
purchased new rollers from a furniture supply store. Inside the
comes scratched or nicked. chest, we installed new chest lid supports. The hinges and the
lock simply needed a little brass polish.
115
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Case Studies
Antique Mantel Clock
Wood type: Pine cabinet
with mahogany veneer
Old finish: Orange shellac
Challenge: Clean up and
restore the dry, delicate
wood and veneer
Solution: Strip off the
old, gummy shellac with
denatured alcohol and
an abrasive pad
W ooden mantel clocks, like the antique
“Ogee” clock shown here (Ansonia Brass &
Copper Co., circa 1860), were the first mass-produced, af-
fordable clocks. It is always a good idea to get the opinion
of an antiques appraiser before you undertake any refinish-
ing project on older items. Often, even a first-rate refinishing
job will devalue a genuine antique. Because our clock no
longer had the original clockwork, the “antique value” was
less of a factor for us than the desire to restore the original
beauty of the clock.
Remove the clockwork. To protect
1 the clock mechanism, we unhooked
the pendulum, then removed the hands
2 Remove the old finish (pages 36
to 45). The wood was old and brittle, 3 Prepare for the finish (pages 54
to 59). No significant repairs to the
so we used the gentlest solvent—alco- clock cabinet were needed, but we did
and clock face, as well as the clockwork, hol—that would dissolve the old shellac. fill in a small spot of missing veneer with
which was mounted to the back panel. We carefully wiped up the dissolved fin- stainable wood putty. We lightly hand-
We also removed the door. ish with an abrasive pad. sanded all the wood surfaces.
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Apply a new topcoat (pages 78 to 93). The mahogany Strip the glass panel (pages 94 to 97). The original floral
4 veneer on our clock was highly figured and relatively dark to
start with, so we did not color the wood. We applied several
5 image on the lower glass panel of the door had been ravaged
beyond restoration by decades of contact with the pendulum.
coats of clear tung oil to all the wood surfaces. With genuine Using water and a fine abrasive pad, we were able to wipe
antiques, avoid using glossy topcoat finishes that can make away the image easily, without removing the glass from the
wood look newer. The main function of the topcoat is to seal the door (a risky operation with old wood).
wood and form a protective layer.
Replace the artwork on the glass. To keep the clock look- Reassemble the clock. After cleaning and reattaching the
6 ing as authentic as possible, we applied a golden wheat,
rub-on decal to replace the floral pattern (images of Americana
7 clockwork, we tacked the back panel to the clock cabinet.
We cleaned up the hinges and hung the door, replacing the
were very common on mantel clocks of this era). Masking the old, rusty brads with #4 × 1⁄2" brass wood screws. We also
adjoining wood and back-painting the glass with black spray resecured the paper clock face to its mounting plate, using a
paint highlights and protects the new design. thin coat of rubber cement.
117
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Case Studies
Tip-Top Table
Wood type:
Mahogany
Old finish: None
Challenge: To
create a supe-
rior wood finish
Solution:
A 14-coat,
fine finish
composed of
grain filler,
stain, var-
nish, and
paste wax
T his Tip-Top Table is a
reproduction of a traditional
design common in the Southern
United States. Manufactured as a kit
by the Bartley Collection, Ltd., it fea-
tures a tabletop that tilts to a near-
vertical position for easy storage.
Because it is made from solid ma-
hogany, the table deserves a fine,
polished finish like the 14-coat finish
we applied. Although most furniture
sold unfinished is sanded at the fac-
tory, a final finish sanding at home is
very important.
Sand the tabletop (pages 54 to 59). Sand the pedestal. We sanded the Fill the grain (pages 58 to 59). We
1 We used a sequence of progressively
finer sandpaper (150-, 180-, 220-grit) to
2 grooves in the pedestal with 150-grit
sanding cord, then we hand-sanded the
3 applied grain filler to the tabletop and
sanding sealer to the pedestal, sanding
create a smooth surface on the raw rest of the pedestal with 150- then 220- off excess filler with 320-grit sandpaper
wood of our table. grit sandpaper. We wiped the table with after the filler dried. We smoothed out
a tack cloth after sanding. the sealer with 220-grit sandpaper.
118
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Color the wood (pages 60 to 65). We applied brown Buff the stain. A light buffing with a soft, lint-free cloth
4 mahogany gel stain to the entire table, including the under-
side of the tabletop. Applying the same finish, even in unseen
5 removes dust and ensures a better bond with the next coat
of finish. We applied three coats of stain for the deep color we
areas of a project, helps prevent warping. We used gel stain wanted over most of the table. Because the grain filler kept the
because it clings well to vertical surfaces and creates very stain from penetrating into the tabletop as deeply as in the
even coloration. pedestal, we made the color uniform by adding another coat of
stain to the tabletop only.
Apply the topcoat (pages 78 to 93). For our topcoat, we Apply wax and buff. We applied one well-buffed coat of
6 used clear gel varnish similar to the gel stain used for color-
ing. We applied two coats of varnish to the entire table, using
7 paste wax on the pedestal, and four coats on the tabletop.
The result was a fine, polished finish that is 14 coats thick on
the same application techniques as with the stain. To produce the tabletop, and quite beautiful to behold.
a deep, durable finish, we added three more coats of varnish to
the tabletop.
119Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 5th Black Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3)
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Case Studies
Music Cabinet
Wood type: Maple, others
Old finish: Shellac, others
Challenge: Even out
mismatched color caused by
differing wood and
finish types
Solution: Chemically
strip the old topcoat, sand,
and apply darker stain
T his unique cabinet, built to hold
sheet music, is a survivor from an
era when entertainment usually meant
gathering around the piano for an inti-
mate musical evening. When we found
the cabinet, it had become a mis-
matched combination of original and
replacement parts. The only thing all
the wood pieces had in common was
the need to be refinished. Refinishing
brought a dramatic transformation,
and now this off-key hodge-podge of
parts is in perfect harmony.
Remove the old finish (pages 36 to 45). Removing the Prepare for the finish (pages 54 to 59). A 1⁄2"-belt sander
1 door and back panel first gave us access to take out the
shelves. We brushed on chemical stripper, then scraped and
2 worked nicely for an intermediate sanding of contoured and
hard-to-reach spots. We used a finishing sander on the flat sur-
scrubbed off the various topcoat finishes from the cabinet and faces. NOTE: When using a power sander, keep the sandpaper
the shelves. moving constantly to avoid gouging.
120
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Fill cracks in wood surfaces. We filled a few deep cracks Apply the new finish (pages 60 to 65 and 78 to 93). Once
3 and fractured gluelines in the sides and top of the cabinet,
using untinted wood putty. Then we sanded the putty down to
4 the old finish was removed, it was even more obvious that
the cabinet was composed of several different wood species.
the surface, and stained it to match the color of the surrounding So we applied red mahogany stain, darkening the wood just
wood. We finish-sanded the entire cabinet to prepare it for the enough to obscure most of the evidence of mismatched wood.
finish. Once the color was even, we applied three coats of clear tung
oil for low-luster protection.
Finish the shelves. The cabinet shelves were in decent Make the finishing touches. We cleaned and attached the
5 shape, but the wood was very dry, brittle, and drab. We
stained the shelves with ebony-colored stain to contrast the
6 hardware (pages 94 to 96), inserted the shelves, hung the
doors, and attached the back panel. Then we applied two coats
cabinet, then added a tung oil topcoat, which also refreshened of paste wax (pages 92 to 93) and buffed the surface to give the
the dry wood. cabinet a gentle sheen that can be renewed on a regular basis.
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Case Studies
Antique Radio Console
Wood type: Poplar with walnut
veneer, basswood accent trim
Old finish: Dark stain, clear
shellac
Challenge: Revamp the
deteriorated finish while
preserving the authentic look
Solution: Strip off the
topcoat, touch up the color,
replace the worn grille
cloth and decals with
reproductions
T here is nothing like an antique radio to conjure
up vivid images of family and bygone days. At
one time, this 1937 RCA brought a whole new brand
of entertainment to an appreciative family. But when
television overshadowed the radio as the main form
of family entertainment, a period of neglect began for
the radio, leaving it looking old and battered. A local
antique radio expert provided a replica grille cloth
and new decals, as well as some interesting trivia
and good advice about the radio. He also updated
the radio set with safer, more efficient parts.
Remove the radio set. Although our old radio still worked, Mask the fragile parts. The plastic selector cover and the
1 the sound quality was poor and the brittle wiring was a fire
hazard. So we unplugged the radio, took off the knobs and the
2 trademark “eye” did not need replacing, so we masked them
with masking tape to protect them from the refinishing chemicals.
back panel, disconnected the radio, and brought it to a profes-
sional for servicing.
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Remove the old topcoat (pages 36 Color the wood (pages 60 to 65). Apply a new topcoat (pages 78
3 to 45). We used a medium abrasive
pad and denatured alcohol to dissolve
4 We started by masking around the
basswood accent trim, then colored the
5 to 93). Two coats of polyurethane
gave us a hard finish that protects the
and remove the old shellac without af- trim pieces with red mahogany stain to veneer. We used water-based, satin-
fecting the color of the wood. replicate their original color. We colored luster polyurethane to produce a less
the rest of cabinet with cherry-tinted pen- glossy, antique look.
etrating oil.
Replace the grille covering. We stapled a piece of repro- Apply the finishing touches. After reinstalling the radio
6 duction grille cloth to the backing board, then reinstalled it
in the console.
7 set, we attached the knobs and applied the new decals
around the radio controls (transfer-type decals should be ap-
plied after the last finish coat). We also revived the selector
guard and eye with plastic cleaner.
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Case Studies
Double-hung Window
Wood type: Pine
Old finish: Multiple layers of paint
Challenge: To paint the window
sashes and casing without damag-
ing the glass or impeding the
smooth operation of the window
Solution: Remove the sashes and
strip off the old paint to avoid paint
buildup
W indow sashes and casings need refinishing
more frequently than just about any other
part of a house. Exposure to moisture and sunlight
and the friction of sliding sashes take their toll in a
hurry. Many homeowners simply cover the window
with coat after coat of fresh paint. The result is win-
dows that stick—especially in warmer, more humid
weather. To keep this from happening to our window,
we disassembled it and stripped the old paint from
the casing and the sashes. It took some time and
effort, but now our window looks great and operates
smoothly.
Protect the glass. Taping over each panel with masking Disassemble the window. Stripping and finishing the win-
1 tape protects the glass from finish materials and increases
its shock resistance against breakage (page 97).
2 dow sashes in place is convenient, but some sash parts
cannot be reached while the window is still intact. We removed
the stop molding that keeps the sashes on track, then we dis-
connected the spiral sash springs and removed both window
sashes. We also removed the sash lock and the pull.
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Remove the old finish (pages 36 to 45). We heat-stripped Prepare for the finish (pages 54 to 59) and paint the
3 the casing and the stop molding, and chemically stripped the
sashes (do not use heat guns near glass or plastic). Because
4 sashes (pages 66 to 71). We sanded the wood to feather
out any unevenness and create a better bond. A coat of sand-
we planned to paint the window, we were not too concerned ing sealer helped ensure even absorbency for the paint. Using
with removing every last bit of old paint. More importantly, we a tapered sash brush, we painted the interior sides of the
wanted to remove enough paint to prevent any problems sashes with interior latex paint to complement the color
caused by paint buildup. scheme in the room, and we painted the exterior sides with
exterior latex to match the house trim.
Paint the casing. We used a 2" brush with polyester bris- Hang the sashes. We reattached the sash lock and the
5 tles to paint the casing and the stop molding. A paint shield
positioned next to the jambs kept the paint off the adjoining
6 pull, then set the painted sashes back into the window and
attached the stop molding, painting over the sash-molding
wall. We applied two coats of paint to all parts of the window. screws so they would blend in. Finally, we reconnected the
TIP: Wipe both sides of the paint shield regularly with a water- sash springs in the tracks.
dampened rag when using latex paint (dampen the rag with
mineral spirits when using oil-based paint).
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Case Studies
Woodwork &Door
Wood type: Red oak
woodwork and fir
door
Old finish: Varnish
and paint
Challenge:
Create matching
finishes from two
different wood
types
Solution: Strip
and scrape the
old finish; use
different stain
colors on the
door and the
woodwork to
create match-
ing finish
colors
F urniture can be removed
and wood floors can be
covered, but the interior wood-
work in your house cannot be
hidden. The owner of the house
shown here wanted to restore
his woodwork and doors to their
natural wood color. But like many
homeowners, he feared that
stripping the paint and refinishing
the woodwork would be too diffi-
cult and very time-consuming.
However, by using the best
techniques and materials, even
refinishing woodwork and doors
can be done with relative ease
and economy.
It is not uncommon for a home
to contain woodwork and doors
made of different wood types,
as is the case with our featured
home. The finish-removal
method we selected was the
same for both the woodwork and
the doors—heat-strip to remove
most of the old paint, then chem-
ically strip and scrape off the
rest. But the real challenge lay in
the finishing. After some experi-
menting, we found a combina-
tion of stain colors that, when
applied to the different wood
types, produced a uniform color
on all the wood.
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Remove the door and mask off the work area. We attached Remove the old finish (pages 36 to 45). We used a heat
1 plastic to all the door jambs in our work area to keep fumes
and dust out of the rest of the house. The hinges and other
2 gun and broad scraper to remove most of the old paint on the
large, flat surfaces. We scraped off loose, flaky paint before heat
door hardware were removed, as were the switchplates and stripping (paint flakes can be ignited by a heat gun). Always use
receptacle covers close to the work area. SAFETY TIP: Mask extra care near the edges of the woodwork to prevent damage
the switches and receptacles immediately after the plates are to the wood and adjoining walls.
removed to avoid the risk of electric shock.
Chemically strip the intricate areas. Because a heat gun Remove the stripper sludge. We used a specialty scraper
3 can scorch more delicate surfaces, we brushed a heavy
layer of semi-paste chemical stripper onto the woodwork con-
4 (page 29) to scrape the contours in the door header and
other trim areas. After removing most of the paint from these
tours and edges. TIP: If your chemical stripper is not clinging areas, we applied a thin layer of stripper to all the woodwork,
well to vertical surfaces, try mixing some cornstarch into the then scrubbed with an abrasive pad to remove the remaining
stripper to thicken it. finish materials.
(continued next page)
127Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 P127 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 ((Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
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Case Study: Woodwork & Door (continued)
31⁄2" Pivot screw
16"
Arm
30"
Standard
Brace
30"
Base
pieces
Strip the door. We used the same techniques as with the Clean the woodwork and door. We scrubbed all the wood
5 woodwork. To make the job easier, we built two standards
(inset) to hold the doors. Attach the top and bottom of the door
6 surfaces with an abrasive pad dipped in mineral spirits. This
removed the wax residue left by the chemical stripper, as well
to the arms of the standards, using a 31⁄2" screw near the stan- as a few traces of the old varnish.
dard, and another screw near the end of the arm. By removing
the screw at the end of each arm, the screws near the stan-
dards become pivot points so the door can be flipped, allowing
you to finish the opposite side of the door once the finished
side is dry to the touch.
Prepare for the finish (pages 54 to 59). We used stainable Sand the woodwork and door. We used a hand-sander
7 wood putty to fill the holes and gouges in the door and the
woodwork. Then, after sanding, we tinted the putty with stain
8 with 150-grit sandpaper to even out the wood surfaces, then
finish-sanded with 220-grit sandpaper, using a variety of grips
so it matched the color of the surrounding wood. and sanding blocks (page 29) to prepare the surface.
128
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Color the wood (pages 60 to 65). It was not easy to find a
9 combination of stain colors that gave us uniform results on
the different wood types. But after some experimentation on
pieces of scrap wood (and a little blending of stain colors), we
settled on a light oak stain for the fir door, which absorbs stain
more deeply than the woodwork. For the oak woodwork, we
used the same oak stain, but mixed in a little walnut to darken
the color.
Apply a topcoat (pages 78 to 81). We used tung oil Make the finishing touches. After chemically stripping
10 because it is so easy to apply to details and is a very
effective product for vertical surfaces. Three coats of tung oil
11 and cleaning the hardware, we drilled new pilot holes, then
reattached the hardware. We mounted the hinges on the door
gave us a hard, durable finish that was not overly glossy. jamb, then hung the door, starting with the top hinge pin. Finally,
we remounted all the switchplates and receptacle plates.
129Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 P129 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black
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Case Studies
Wood Floor
Wood type: Red oak
Old finish: Medium
oak stain with varnish
and floor wax
Challenge: Com-
pletely remove worn,
uneven finish
Solution: Sand
down to bare wood
with a drum
sander and edger
R efinishing wood floors is one of
the most popular do-it-yourself
projects today, and for good reason.
Few projects offer such a dramatic re-
ward for a relatively small investment of
time and money. The many scratches
and the uneven wear on the floor
shown here left us no option but to
resurface. Many floors, however, do not
need sanding. Sometimes stripping the
old topcoat and applying a fresh finish
is all it takes.
Prepare the floor and room. We countersunk a few nails Prepare the equipment. We rented a drum sander and
1 14
and screws so they were about ⁄ " below the floor surface,
then we removed some staples so they would not tear our
2 installed 80-grit sandpaper. (Make sure you get the rental
store attendant to show you how to use the machines and re-
sandpaper. We also masked off doorways and ductwork to place sanding belts.) Because we had never used this sander,
keep the sand and dust in our work area. Finally, we vacuumed we tested it out on a sheet of plywood until we were comfort-
the floor to remove dust. able using the machine.
130
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Start sanding the floor. We positioned our drum sander in Complete the first pass. We sanded to within about 1 ft. of
3 the center of the room, about 6" out from the wall. With the
sanding drum in raised position, we turned on the machine and
4 the end wall in our first sanding pass, raising the drum as
we neared the corner. N : If the sandpaper clogs quickly or
OTE
began moving it forward, lowering the drum as the sander leaves quite a bit of finish intact, switch to a coarser grit—but
moved. We sanded a straight path, following the direction of as a general rule, use the finest grit that is effective for the job.
the floorboards and keeping the machine moving constantly.
Make a second sanding pass. We repositioned the sander Switch to finer sandpaper. After sanding with 80-grit pa-
5 at our starting point so the next path overlapped the first by
one-half its width. We sanded a second pass using the same
6per, we switched to 120-grit for the second sanding stage.
N : Most of the old finish should be gone, as in the photo
OTE
method. Replacing the sandpaper as needed, we sanded over- above, before you switch sandpaper grits. We made additional
lapping paths all the way to the other side wall, then turned passes with 150-grit and 180-grit sandpaper.
around and sanded the other half of the room.
(continued next page)
131Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 P131 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
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Case Study: Wood Floor (continued)
Sand the borders. We rented an edger to sand off the fin-
7 ish from the border areas of the floor. T : When you turn on
IP
the edger, make sure the sandpaper is not resting on the floor,
and maintain light, even pressure on the machine as you work.
Use the same sequence of sandpaper grits you used with the
drum sander.
Scrape or sand the hard-to-reach areas. We used a Apply a topcoat (pages 78 to 93). We used water-based
8 sharp scraper to resurface our floor in awkward areas that
could not be reached with a power sander. We used a finishing
9 polyurethane on our floor because its short drying time
means less time for dust to settle into the finish. To apply the
sander with 180-grit paper to feather out any remaining uneven topcoat, we used a painting pad with a pole extension. Three
areas and sanding ridges. thin coats gave us a durable finish. We buffed the dried finish
with a fine abrasive pad to smooth out the surface.
132
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How to Apply Polyurethane to Floors
Seal sanded wood with a 1:1 mixture of water-based poly- Apply a seal-coat of undiluted polyurethane, brushing
1 urethane and water, applied with a painting pad and pole
extension. Let the seal-coat dry, then use a medium abrasive
2 with the grain, to unsealed wood. Avoid overbrushing the
finish by applying it as evenly as possible on the first pass. Let
pad to lightly buff the surfaces to remove any raised wood grain the seal-coat dry. NOTE: Furniture that has been colored with
caused by the water. Vacuum the surface with a bristle attach- stain or penetrating oil does not need a seal-coat.
ment, or wipe with a tack cloth.
Let the finish dry, then buff the floor with a medium abra- O : When the final coat of finish is dry, buff the surfaces
3 sive pad. Vacuum or wipe the floor. Apply more coats of
polyurethane as needed to build the finish to the desired thick-
4 PTION
with water and a fine abrasive pad to remove surface imper-
fections and diminish the gloss.
ness, buffing between coats. Most floors require at least three
coats of water-based polyurethane for a hard, durable finish
(see manufacturer’s recommendations).
133Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 P133 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black
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Case Studies
School Desks
Wood type: Maple
Old finish:
Polyurethane varnish
Challenge: Working
with metal and wood
parts in the same
project
Solution:
Disassemble for re-
pair where needed;
mask metal and
wood parts while
finishing
B efore World War II, count-
less rows of these tiny
desks lined the aisles of America’s
schoolrooms. Because the desks
contain both wood and metal
structural parts, completely disas-
sembling them would have simpli-
fied our job, allowing us to work on
the parts separately. But the joints
were still very strong, and we did
not want to weaken the desks. So
we disassembled only those parts
that needed repairs.
Disassemble the desks. We unscrewed the desk feet from Remove the old finish (pages 36 to 45). Originally, these
1 the wooden runners and removed one of the maple seats
because it had a crack that needed repair. We set the metal
2 desks probably were top-coated with many layers of paste wax.
But not long ago, a refinisher removed the wax and smothered the
fasteners aside in a marked container for safe storage. wood surfaces with several thick coats of polyurethane. We used
a methylene chloride-based chemical stripper to cut through the
polyurethane.
134
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Make basic repairs (pages 46 to 53). Mask the wood. To protect the wood Refurbish the metal parts. We used
3 We glued the crack in the seat we
had removed, and reinforced the repair
4 from paint overspray, we masked it
with tape and newspaper before we
5 emery cloth to smooth out ridges and
rough spots. Then we wiped the metal
with a wooden mending plate (page 50). started working on the metal parts that clean and sprayed it with primer. After
After the glue dried, we sanded out a few were still attached. the primer dried, we painted the metal
scratches and filled the larger ones with with rust-inhibiting enamel spray paint.
untinted wood putty.
Finish the wood. We brushed on a thin coat of water-based Reassemble the desks. Our school desks were mounted
6 polyurethane to seal the wood, then we painted stencils
onto the desktops with acrylic craft paint (pages 70 to 71). After
7 on wooden runners so they could be moved easily without
risk of tipping over. We refinished the runners and reattached
the stencils dried, we added a two-layer topcoat of water-based the repaired seat. Then we cleaned up the original screws and
polyurethane (page 133). reattached the desks to the runners.
135Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 P135 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06(Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3) 5th Black
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Maintenance
& Quick Fixes
R efinishing furniture, a floor, or
woodwork is a major investment
of time and money. Protect your invest-
ment with a regular wood maintenance
program, and avoid refinishing again
by mastering a few quick fixes for minor
finish problems. A basic wood mainte-
nance program includes regular clean-
ing and dusting, and applying fresh
paste wax or lemon oil. Repair
scratches, scuffs, dents, and other
minor surface flaws as they occur.
EVERYTHING YOU NEED:
Tools: paintbrushes, touch-up markers,
putty knives, craft knife, candle, iron.
Materials: solvents, stain, topcoat materi-
Rub out white water spots with fine pumice powder and mineral spirits. First, als, lemon oil, sandpaper, abrasive pads,
clean the discolored area with a cloth dipped in mineral spirits. Next, sprinkle fine pumice powder, shellac resin sticks,
fine pumice powder onto the water spots. Dip a felt pad or soft cloth in mineral staining cloths, wood glue.
spirits as a lubricant, then buff the pumice powder until the water spots are
gone. Recoat waxed surfaces with paste wax.
Wood Maintenance & Repair Kits
Packaged refinishing kits, sold at most building centers and A wood maintenance kit should include basic tools, like paint-
paint stores, promise to refurbish a finish with no messy strip- brushes and putty knives, as well as any specialty tools that are
ping. These products are sometimes successful on thicker top- useful for your furniture. Keep your tools together in a tool box,
coats with minor problems, but test them before using them on along with chemical solvents and samples of the stains and
your fine furniture. Most kits contain a solvent for dissolving topcoats you have used on your wood.
finishes, a topcoat product, and abrasive pads.
136
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Tips for Making Quick Fixes
Reattach splinters. Scrape any debris from the splintered area, Resecure loose veneer. Cover the loosened veneer with a
then coat both surfaces with wood glue. Press the splinter back damp cloth, then press with a household iron set to a low tem-
into place and secure with masking tape until the glue dries. perature. Keep the iron moving and do not iron for more than a
few seconds. Wait for the veneer glue to liquefy, then remove
the iron and cloth. Before the glue rehardens, roll with a seam
roller (page 29). Set a heavy book on the repair as it cools. If
ineffective, reglue the veneer (pages 52 to 53).
How to Clean Finished Surfaces
Rub mineral spirits onto the wood sur- Apply a new coat of paste wax. When OPTION: Freshen dull or dry oil finishes
1 faces to remove grime and wax
buildup. Wipe off the mineral spirits and
2 the wax becomes filmy, buff with a
clean, lint-free cloth. Apply another coat
using lemon oil. As an oil finish ages, es-
sential oils are lost from the wood due to
any dissolved wax with a fine abrasive of paste wax after 24 hours. Renew the evaporation, wear, and cleaning. A coat
pad. Repeat until all the wax is gone. paste-wax topcoat at least once a year. of lemon oil restores these oils.
137Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6,3 5th Black P137 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06(Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3)
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How to Blend Out Minor Finish Problems
Varnish Lacquer Shellac
Blend out minor finish problems in pure varnish (no synthetic (right) mix one part shellac to four parts denatured alcohol.
additives), lacquer, or shellac finishes (pages 22 to 23) with a Once the solvent mixture has liquefied the finish, gently brush or
mixture of solvent and fresh topcoat material. First, clean dirt wipe the finish problem until it is smooth and evenly blended
and wax from the problem area, then dissolve the finish using with the rest of the topcoat. For best results, apply a coat or two
the right solvent mixture for each topcoat: for pure varnish fin- of paste wax over the entire surface once the repaired topcoat is
ishes (left) mix one part clear tung oil to two parts mineral spir- dry. NOTE: Polymerized topcoats, like polyurethane, cannot be
its; for lacquer finishes (center) use a 100% solution of dissolved and repaired with this technique.
lacquer thinner to liquefy the old lacquer; for shellac finishes
How to Repair Scuffs & Shallow Scratches
Wash the scratched or scuffed area Select a touch-up marker or a wood Lightly blend the area around the
1 with a clean cloth and mineral spirits.
If the damage does not penetrate
2 stain that closely matches the color of
the finish. Carefully color in the bottom of
3 scratch with the solvent solution ap-
propriate for the type of finish being re-
through the finish and into the wood, skip the scratch, using the touch-up marker or paired (see above). After the finish dries,
to step 3. a fine artist’s brush dipped in wood stain. apply paste wax over the entire surface.
Allow stain to dry.
138
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How to Repair Deep Scratches with a Shellac Resin Stick
Clean the area around the scratch with mineral spirits and a Warm the tip of a putty knife over a candle flame. Use the
1 fine abrasive pad. Select a shellac resin stick that closely
matches the finish color (if you cannot find an exact match, use
2 hot knife to slice off a small piece of shellac resin from the
stick. Let the resin melt on the knife blade.
a slightly lighter one).
Spread the molten resin on the damaged area, working it Lightly sand the repaired area with 600-grit wet/dry sandpa-
3 into the scratch with the putty knife. Let the resin harden,
then reheat the knife and scrape off excess resin by pulling the
4 per until the resin is level with the surface of the finish. Ex-
tend dark grain lines through the resin patch using a touch-up
flat edge of the warm knife across the resin mound until it is marker, then use a fine abrasive pad to apply paste wax to the
level with the wood surface. repair. Buff with a clean cloth when dry.
139Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6,3 5th Black P139 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06(Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3)
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Index Cedar, 27, 114–115 Enamel paints, 66
Cedar chest case study, 114–115 Epoxy glue, 47
Chair case studies Evaluating projects, 16–19
dining chairs, 106–107
rocking chairs, 102–103 F
Chemicals Film-coating finishes, 79, 84–85
guidelines for working with, 32 Finishes
removing old finishes with, 12, 36, 42–45 aged, 72–75
sanding and scraping before using, 38 aged rubbed, 76–77
types of, 23 alligatored, 19, 22, 23
using on floors, 20 antique, 71
Cherry, 27 blending out minor problems in, 138
Chest case studies cleaning, 137
A cedar chest, 114–115 clear, 27
Abrasive pads, 29 chest of drawers, 110–111 color washes, 71
Accessories Chest of drawers case study, 110–111 crazed, 22, 23
cleaning, 95 Cleaning finished surfaces, 137 dark, 26
to complete project, 13 Cleanup tips, 33 evaluating, 19
protecting, 122 Clock case study, 116–117 finish-sanding, 58
removing and reinstalling, 96 Coloring wood fixing surface flaws, 56–57
replacing, 94 deciding about, 13 on floors, removing, 36, 38
Acrylic craft paints, 71 overview of, 60 identifying old, 22–23
Aerosol can sprays, 86–87 tips for, 62–63 lacquer, 23
Aged finishes, 72–75 using aniline stains, 61, 63 layers of, 24
Aged rubbed finishes, 76–77 using gel stains, 61 light, 26
Alcohol. See denatured alcohol using oil-based liquid stain, 61 Mission, 108–109
Alligatored finishes, 19, 22, 23 using water-based liquid stains, 61 oil, 23
Aniline stains, using, 61, 63 Color layers, 24 painted, 27
Antique finishes, 71 Color washes, 71 polyurethane, 23
Antique mantel clock case study, 116–117 Compressor-driven HVLP sprayers, 86 preparing for, 13, 54–55
Antique radio console case study, 122–123 Cordless drills, 28 preparing surface for, 56–59
Antiques Crazed finishes, 22, 23 removing old, 12, 36
frame-and-panel cabinet, 112–113 chemical stripping, 12, 36, 42–45
mantel clock, 116–117 D heat stripping, 12, 36, 40–41
music cabinet, 120–121 Danish oil, 82 preparation for, 37
radio console, 122–123 Dark oak stain, 26 scraping & sanding, 36, 38–39
sewing machine cabinet, 104–105 Dark walnut stain, 26 selecting new, 24–27
value of, 10 Decorative painting techniques, 70–71 shellac, 23
Artists' brushes, 29 Denatured alcohol stenciled, 71
ATM strippers, 42 identifying old finish with, 22 tools for, 28–29
making shellac with, 84 types of, 23
B overview of, 23 using sanding sealers, 58
Basswood, 26 using, 42 varnish, 23
Belt sanders, 28, 39 Dents, eliminating, 19, 56 Finishing sanders, 28
Birch, 26 Desk case study, 134–135 Finish-sanding, 58
Bird's-eye maple, 27 Detail brushes, 29 Fir, 126–129
Bleaching wood, 57 Detailed areas, refinishing, 102, 105, Fire extinguishers, 31
Blistered veneer, repairing, 53 112–113, 120 First aid kits, 31
Broken furniture, repairing, 48–51 Detail sanders, 28 Floating floors, 20
Brown mahogany stain, 26 Detail scrapers, 29 Floors
Brushes Dining chair case study, 106–107 evaluating wood for projects, 20
for applying finishes, 29 Disposal of materials mineral spirits for, 20
cleaning, 33 regulations about, 30 refinishing, 130–133
for removing finishes, 29 tips for, 32 removing old finishes, 36, 38
storing, 32 Distressing, 72, 76 sanders for, 38
types of, 29 Door case study, 126–129 using chemicals on, 20
Building codes / permits, 5 Double-hung window case study, 124–125 Frame-and-panel cabinet case study,
Drills, 28 112–113
C Drum sanders and edgers, 38, 130 Fruitwood stain, 26
Cabinet case studies Dye stains, 62 Fuming, 108–109
frame and panel cabinet, 112–113 Furniture
music cabinet, 120–121 E before and after refinishing
sewing machine cabinet, 104–105 Ebony stain, 26 examples, 6–11
Carpenter's glue, 47 Electrical parts, repairing &/or replacing, 94 antique mantel clock, 116–117
140 Index
Job on:
Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision
Scn : #P140 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6,3 5th Black Dept : D Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3)
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antique radio console, 122–123 Oil-based liquid stains, using, 61
cabinets, 104–105, 112–113, 120–121 J Oil-based paints, 66, 67
cedar chest, 114–115 Joints, repairing, 48–49 Oil finishes
chairs, 102–103, 106–107 applying, 82–83
chest of drawers, 110–111 K properties of, 23
desk, 134–135 Knives, 29 Oils
dining chairs, 106–107 Knotty pine, 27 for maintenance, 137
distressing, 72, 76 penetrating, 79, 82–83
evaluating for refinishing, 17–19 L
finding information about, 17 Lacquer P
finishes, removing old, 12, 36 blending out minor problems with, 138 Paintbrushes, 29
chemical stripping, 36, 42–45 properties of, 23 Painting
heat stripping, 36, 40–41 Lacquer thinners, 23, 42 decorative techniques, 70–71
preparation for, 37 Lead-testing kits, 22 overview of, 66–67
scraping & sanding, 36, 38–39 Legs, repairing, 41, 48 preparation for, 68
frame-and-panel cabinet, 112–113 Lemon oil, 137 scraping, 38–39
liquids for refinishing, 43 Liquid stains, applying, 65 techniques, 69
liquid wax for detailed areas, 92 Liquid wax, 92 tools for, 29
mantel clock, 116–117 Loose veneer, repairing, 53 Painting pads, 29
Mission finishes, 108–109 Paints
paint types for, 66 M acrylic craft, 71
radio console, 122–123 Mahogany, 24, 26, 118–119 in color washes, 71
repairs Maintenance program, 136, 137 enamel, 66
on flat surfaces of, 50 Mantel clock case study, 116–117 oil-based, 66, 67
of joints, 48–49 Maple, 25, 26, 27, 120–121, 134–135 water-based, 66, 67
of spindles, legs & rungs, 51 Materials Paint scrapers, 29
rocking chairs, 102–103 for applying topcoats, 79 Parquet floors, 20
school desk, 134–135 for applying wood stains, 64 Particleboard, 18
sewing machine cabinet, 104–105 for chemical stripping, 42 Paste wax
tip-top table, 118–119 for cleaning hardware and accessories, 95 applying, 92–93
See also hardware for creating aged finishes, 72 for cleaning, 137
Furniture refinisher liquids, 43 for creating aged rubbed finishes, 76 properties of, 79
disposal of, 30, 32 as topcoat, 24
G for heat stripping, 40 Penetrating oils, 79, 82–83
Gel stains, using, 61, 65 for maintenance, 136 Permits, 5
Gel varnishes, 79 for oil finishes, 82 Pigment-based stains, 62
Glass, removing and reinstalling, 96 for painting, 68 Pine, 24, 25, 26, 27, 110–111, 116–117,
Glues for quick fixes, 136 124–125
dissolving, 49 for repairing furniture parts, 48 Plug counterbores, 57
removing excess, 47, 55 for repairing joints, 48 Polyester-bristle paintbrushes, 29
removing old, 47 for repairing veneer, 52 Polyurethane products
tools for using, 47 for repairs on flat surfaces, 48 advantages of, 79
types of, 47 MC strippers, 42, 43 applying, 81, 84–85
working with, 47 Medium walnut stain, 26 properties of, 23
Golden maple stain, 26 Metal, refurbishing, 135 storing, 80
Golden oak stain, 26 Methylene Chloride (MC) strippers, 42, 43 as topcoats, 69
Gouges, repairing, 13, 54–55, 114, 116 Mineral spirits Poplar, 26, 122–123
Grain fillers for chemical stripping, 42, 43 Power tools, 28
applying, 55, 58 for floors, 20 Putty, pretinted, 56
woods best suited for, 24 for furniture, 137 Putty knives, 29
Gravity-feed HVLP sprayers, 87 properties of, 23
Mission finish case study, 108–109 R
H Music cabinet case study, 120–121 Radio console case study, 122–123
Hardware Random-orbit sanders, 28
cleaning, 95 N Recycling, refinishing as, 6
to complete project, 13 Nail holes, repairing, 56 Red mahogany stain, 26
old finish and, 16 Natural-bristle paintbrushes, 29 Red oak, 24, 25, 26, 126–133
removing and reattaching, 96 Nicks, filling in, 115 Refinishing
replacing items of, 94 NMP strippers, 43 overview of, 12–13
Heat guns, 28 reasons for, 6–11
Heat stripping, 36, 40–41 O Regulations, 5
Household items as tools, 28, 56 Oak, 25, 26, 102–103, 106–107, 108–109, Repairs / repairing
Household solvents, 43 112–113, 126–133 cracks & breaks on flat surfaces, 50
HVLP sprayers, 86–87, 91 Oak stains, 26 joints, 48–49
Index 141Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6,3 5th Black P141 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3)
FRW_140-144_m3.qxp 5/25/06 2:00 PM Page 142
making, 12 removing, 57 Water-based paints, 66, 67
making basic, 46–47 types of, 26 Water spots / stains
spindles, legs & rungs, 51 aniline dyes, 61 evaluating, 19
veneer, 52–53 gel, 61 removing, 136
Reupholstering, 97, 107 oil-based liquid, 61 Wax, paste
Rocking chair case study, 102–103 water-based liquid, 61 applying, 92–93
Rubbing oil, 82 Stenciled finishes, 71 for cleaning, 137
Stenciling brushes, 29 properties of, 79
S Storage tips, 32 as topcoat, 24
Safety Stripping White glue, 47
basic, 5, 30–31 brushes for, 29 White oak, 26, 102–103, 106–107
of chemical strippers, 42, 43 with chemicals, 12, 16, 42–43 Window case study, 124–125
lead-testing kits, 22 tools for, 29 Wipe-on polyurethane, 79
when applying Mission finish, 108 Wipe-on varnishes, 79
when repairing &/or replacing electrical T Wire brushes, 29
parts, 94 Teardrop sanding blocks/pads, 29, 39 Wood
when using chemicals, 23 Tip-top table case study, 118–119 absorption rate of different, 25
when using spraying finishes, 88 Tools bleaching, 57
Sanders, 28 for applying sprayed finishes, 86–87 coloring, 13
Sanding and scraping for applying wood stains, 64 combinations, 17
overview of, 36–37 basic, 28 evaluating for refinishing, 17–19
tools for, 29, 38–39, 55 for chemical stripping, 42 finish layers for, 24
Sanding blocks, 29 for cleaning hardware and accessories, 95 grain fillers
Sanding cords, 29, 39 for creating aged finishes, 72 applying, 55, 58
Sanding decorative finishes, 71 for creating aged rubbed finishes, 76 woods best suited for, 24
Sanding grips, 29 for finishing, 28–29 grain pattern of, 25
Sanding sealers, 55, 58 for gluing, 47 maintenance program for, 136, 137
Sandpaper, 55 for heat stripping, 40 preparing for painting, 68
School desk case study, 134–135 household items as, 28, 56 preparing for staining, 63
Scraping and sanding for maintenance, 136 quick fixes for, 137
overview of, 36–37 for painting, 68 Wood floors
tools for, 29, 38–39, 55 for quick fixes, 136 evaluating for projects, 20
Scratches for repairing joints, 48 mineral spirits for, 20
repairing, 138–139 for repairing spindles, legs & rungs, 48 refinishing, 130–133
repairing deep, 139 for repairing veneer, 52 removing old finishes, 36, 38
repairing shallow, 138 for scraping & sanding, 29, 38–39 sanders for, 38
Scuffed areas, repairing, 138 Topcoats, 24 using chemicals on, 20
Seal coats, 24 applying, 13, 78–81, 80–81 Wood putty, 115
absorption rate and, 25 polyurethane for, 69 Wood swellers, 48
of sanding sealer, 58 purpose of, 78 Woodwork
Sewing machine cabinet case study, types of materials, 79 door & woodwork case study, 126–129
104–105 Tung oil, storing, 80 evaluating for projects, 21
Sheens, 84 Turbine-driven HVLP sprayers, 86 paint types for, 66
Shellac finishes refinishing, 126–129
blending out minor problems with, 138 U stripping, 21
identifying old finishes, 22, 23 Upholstery, 97, 107 Work area, guidelines for, 30
making own, 84
Siphon-feed HVLP sprayers, 87 V Z
Softwoods, 24, 25, 26, 27, 110–111, Varnishes Zebrawood, 27
116–117, 124–125 advantages of, 79
Soldering irons, 56 blending out minor problems with, 138
Solvents, types of, 23, 42, 43 properties of, 23
Spindles, repairing, 41, 48 Veneers
Sprayed finishes evaluating, 18
applying, 89–91 repairing, 52–53
quantity needed, 87 Vinegar
safety with, 88 dissolving glue with, 49
tools for, 86–87 neutralizing bleach with, 57
Spraying booths, 88
Stains W
applying wood, 62, 64–65 Walnut, 27, 104–105
dye versus pigment, 62 Walnut grain pattern, 27
judging color of, 63 Walnut stains, 26
overview of, 60 Water-based liquid stains, using, 61
142 Index
Job on:
Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision
Scn : #P142 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6,3 5th Black Dept : D Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3)
FRW_140-144_m3.qxp 5/25/06 2:00 PM Page 143
N ew from
CREATIVE PUBLISHING
INTERNATIONAL
A Complete Guide to
Basic Woodworking
W hether you are a novice or experienced woodworker,
you’ll find that this book sheds new light on a classic hobby.
More than 500 color photos show how to use the latest tools and
materials to achieve woodworking success.
ISBN 1-58923-179-1
CREATIVE PUBLISHING INTERNATIONAL
18705 Lake drive East
Chanhassen, MN 55317
www.creativepub.comJob on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6,3 5th Black P143 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3)
FRW_140-144_m3.qxp 5/25/06 2:00 PM Page 144
A lso from
CREATIVE PUBLISHING
INTERNATIONAL
Complete Guide to Bathrooms
Complete Guide to Ceramic & Stone Tile
Complete Guide to Creative Landscapes
Complete Guide to Decks
Complete Guide to Easy Woodworking Projects
Complete Guide to Flooring
Complete Guide to Home Carpentry
Complete Guide to Home Masonry
Complete Guide to Home Plumbing
Complete Guide to Home Wiring
Complete Guide to Kitchens
Complete Guide to Landscape Construction
Complete Guide to Outdoor Wood Projects
Complete Guide to Painting & Decorating
Complete Guide to Roofing & Siding
Complete Guide to Trim & Finish Carpentry
Complete Guide to Windows & Doors
Complete Guide to Wood Storage Projects ISBN 1-58923-093-0
Complete Guide to Yard & Garden Features
Complete Outdoor Builder
Complete Photo Guide to Home Repair
Complete Photo Guide to Home Improvement
ISBN 1-58923-248-8
CREATIVE PUBLISHING INTERNATIONAL
18705 Lake drive East
Chanhassen, MN 55317
www.creativepub.com
Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_VisionP144 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6,3 5th Black Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.05.06_M3)
FRW_001-003-M6.qxp 5/24/06 4:30 PM Page 2
President/CEO: Ken Fund
Publisher: Bryan Trandem
Assistant Managing Editor: Tracy Stanley
Senior Editor: Mark Johanson
Senior Art Director: Jon Simpson
Photo Editor: Julie Caruso
Copyright © 2006
Creative Publishing international, Inc. Creative Director, Photography: Tim Himsel
18705 Lake Drive East Lead Photographer: Steve Galvin
Chanhassen, Minnesota 55317 Scene Shop Carpenter: Randy Austin
1-800-328-3895 Production Manager: Linda Halls
www.creativepub.com
All rights reserved
FINISHING & REFINISHING WOOD
Created by: The Editors of Creative Publishing international, Inc., in
Printed in China cooperation with Black & Decker. Black & Decker® is a trademark of
The Black & Decker Corporation and is used under license.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_VisionP2 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:8008.C1 D/O : 24.02.06_M3)
FRW_001-003-M6.qxp 5/4/06 3:09 PM Page 3
Library of Congress
Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Finishing & refinishing wood : techniques & projects for fine wood
finishes.
p. cm.
Includes index.
ISBN-13: 978-1-58923-288-4 (soft cover)
ISBN-10: 1-58923-288-7 (soft cover)
1. Furniture finishing. 2. Finishes and finishing. I. Title:
Finishing and refinishing wood.
TT199.4.F4674 2006
684'.084--dc22
2006012737Job on:8008 Title : CPI-HI0519_Finishing & Refinishing wood Client : Pro_Vision P3 Scn : #175 Size : 209.55(w274.37(h)mm Co : M6 Dept : DTP D/O : 29.04.06 (Job on:93954.C2 D/O : 28.02.06_M2) 5th Black