Special Projects
Black & Decker Play Structures & Backyard Fun - How To Build Playsets, Sports Courts, Games
Source: Black & Decker Play Structures & Backyard Fun - How To Build Playsets, Sports Courts, Games.pdf
Source file: Black & Decker Play Structures & Backyard Fun - How To Build Playsets, Sports Courts, Games.pdf
Play Structures
& Backyard Fun
How to Build:
Playsets • Sports Courts • Games • Swingsets • More
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© 2018 Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc.
First published in 2010 by Creative Publishing international, Inc., Library of Congress Control Number: 2018939840
an imprint of The Quarto Group, 401 Second Avenue North,
Suite 310, Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA. This edition published by Acquiring Editor: Mark Johanson
Cool Springs Press in 2018. T (612) 344-8100 F (612) 344-8692 Project Manager: Alyssa Bluhm
www.QuartoKnows.com Art Director: James Kegley
Cover Photo: Shutterstock/Mark Herreid
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any Layout: Danielle Smith-Boldt
form without written permission of the copyright owners. All images
in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior Printed in China
consent of the artists concerned, and no responsibility is accepted
by producer, publisher, or printer for any infringement of copyright
or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication. Every
effort has been made to ensure that credits accurately comply with
information supplied. We apologize for any inaccuracies that may
have occurred and will resolve inaccurate or missing information in a
subsequent reprinting of the book.
Cool Springs Press titles are also available at discount for retail,
wholesale, promotional, and bulk purchase. For details, contact the
Special Sales Manager by email at specialsales@quarto.com or by
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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
ISBN: 978-0-7603-6386-7
Digital edition: 978-0-76036-3-874
Softcover edition: 978-0-76036-3-867
BLACK+DECKER and the BLACK+DECKER logo are trademarks of The Black & Decker Corporation and are used under license. All rights reserved.
NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The publisher and
BLACK+DECKER cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse of the
information provided.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional
techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions included with products,
since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required:
some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help.
Consult your local building department for information on building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to
your project.
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Contents
Play Structures & Backyard Fun 9
Introduction 7
Planning & Basics 9
12
Working & Building Safely 10
Finding the Right Spot 12
Outdoor Building Materials 16
Tools 18
Play Structures 21
Choosing a Play System 22
Playground Safety 24 23
Precut Playground Kit 26
DIY Playset 36
DIY Swingset 46
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Contents (Cont.)
Backyard Fun 51
52
Timberframe Sandbox 52
Seesaw 56
Zipline 60
Classic Tree Swing 64
Jungle Gym 66
Obstacle Course 72
Swinging Rope Challenge 74
66
Home Sports 79
Skateboard Ramp 80
Basketball Hoop 86
Bocce Court 88
Horseshoe Pit 92
80
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Tetherball 94
96
Pickleball 95
Putting Green 96
Ladder Golf 102
Beanbag Toss 106
Special Section: Swimming Pools 108
Treehouses 121 102
Conversions Charts 140
Resources 141
Index 142
Photography Credits 144
108
121
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Introduction
F un. That’s the whole idea behind backyard recreation structures. Ideally, they
aren’t just fun to use; projects like the ones in this book are also a blast to plan,
design, adapt, and build. At least, that was the criteria used in selecting all the projects
included here. If it’s not fun, what’s the point?
Divided into four common-sense sections, these are usually better suited to one project or another. A
projects represent an incredible diversity from long, flat driveway is the ideal home for a basketball
which you can choose. Big or small, complex or hoop (page 86) and three-point dream shots, while
simple, you’ll find a project in this book to match an expansive, wooded property will be much more
any level of DIY expertise and ambition. There accommodating of a zipline (page 60).
is also something for children of every age, from If you opt for a project that is targeted to the
four to forty. Want to give your six-year-old the gift younger members of the household, include them in
of an incredible hideaway that transforms from a the planning and construction. Planning, designing,
mountaintop pirate’s fort to a medieval castle with a measuring, marking, cutting, and building can all
flick of the imagination? A clubhouse like the one on be great opportunities for young DIYers to hone
page 121 should do the trick. Dad wants to work on math skills, learn about basic physics and geometry,
his short game on a lazy Saturday afternoon? Look and test out their own hypotheses about the way
no further than the putting green on page 96. If you things work. No matter what the project is or who
have the space, topography, time, and inclination, builds it, however, safety should always be the first
you can even build several of these projects to and foremost concern when it comes to backyard
define different areas of your backyard for different recreation. Wear the proper safety gear whenever
purposes and groups. A bocce court (page 88) is you work with power tools or dangerous hand tools.
the perfect anchor for an adult cookout area, where Follow best safety practices in constructing projects
friends can lounge over a cocktail or two. An obstacle and ensure all safety guards are correctly installed in
course (page 72) on the other side of the yard will anything you build—this includes those directed in
keep the kids occupied for many happy hours, while the project steps and common-sense features such
keeping them physically fit. as rounding off sharp edges. You’ll find more safety
Unless you’re willing to change the look and style information throughout the book, and links to safety
of your backyard, you’ll find that different landscapes organizations in the Resources section on page 141.
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Planning & Basics
B efore starting a large project, it’s important to get
a clear idea of where to build it, what landscaping
work is involved, and how much it will cost. If the
structure will be anywhere close to the property lines
and will be difficult to move after you build it, make
sure you know exactly what setbacks are required
in your area. Talk to an inspector about what you’re
planning to do—it doesn’t cost anything; in fact, you
probably will get some good advice or handouts about
construction details, and it might save you from big
problems later on.
If you live in an area with a neighborhood
homeowner’s association, or your house is part of a
condominium development, check your deed and
talk to your neighbors before starting any permanent
or semi-permanent projects to find out if there are
restrictions. You’ll also need to know how deep to dig
footings and what to do if you have bad soil or a high
water table. This all sounds worse than it is—one or
two phone calls usually resolve all of these questions,
and it’s best to get the answers at the start.
You also should estimate the cost of materials
to avoid surprises. For complicated projects like a
treehouse or a large playset, lumberyards and home
centers will estimate costs for you if you give them
a detailed scale drawing of what you plan to build.
It’s always a good idea to add 10 percent for waste
and mistakes.
In this chapter:
• Working & Building Safely
• Finding the Right Spot
• Outdoor Building Materials
• Tools
Proof 1
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Working & Building Safely
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
BxW
Artist
22w x 30d
Accurate Art, Inc.
Safety-F01.eps
2/C
4/C
Date
Check if revision
Before building anything, locate your lot lines and any buried utilities. Make note of overhead utility lines, and make sure your
play structure is far enough away from them so the two don’t touch—the general recommendation is to make sure utility lines
are at least twice the height of the structure (which includes most building projects, including swingsets). Play areas must be at
12/28/2009
least 6' from any building, tree, or other obstacle. The clear area in front and back of swings must be at least twice the height of
the swingset (measured from the center of the swingset).
Before buying any lumber, make (2) 2 × 6 Header
with ½" plywood 13'-0"
scaled construction drawings. It will spacer
make buying materials and building 12
CE's review
6
Initials
the structure much easier and help Initials
you avoid expensive mistakes. If you
need to obtain a building permit, 6"
inspectors will also want to see your 8"
5'-4"
opening
opening
OK
Rough
Rough
Date
Date
construction drawings. 2'-8"
2'-8"
2'-8"
Rough Rough opening
opening
8'-11⁄8"
Correx
6'-11"
¾" Plywood
Proof 1
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Safety Equipment
Protective gloves play two important roles when you are Protective eyewear is perhaps the most important safety gear
working outdoors: they protect your hands from abrasions you can wear. Quality protective eyewear has lightweight,
when working with tools or handling building and landscaping shatterproof lenses that are resistant to fogging. Some are
materials, and they prevent contact with chemicals such tinted to protect against UV rays. If you will be working around
as solvent-based finishing products. Wear well-fitted work chemicals or airborne irritants, wear safety goggles that fit
gloves whenever they do not interfere with important dexterity your face snugly. Some prescription glasses are rated as
concerns. Wear rubber gloves when working with solvent-base safety glasses, but don’t assume that yours are: wear goggles
paints, stains, and sealers or other chemicals that are not over them if you are not certain.
suitable for skin contact.
C
A B
C
A
B
D
Wear ear protection when working with power tools or working Respiratory protection is worn in areas where ventilation is
around other loud noises. Basic construction earmuffs (A) poor or whenever you are cutting treated lumber or working
are inexpensive and reliable. For a slightly higher cost you around airborne particulates, noxious gases, or fumes. A
can purchase electronic versions that feature noise canceling paper mask with an N-95 rating and two straps (A) will
so only objectionable and dangerous noises are blocked. block particulates such as sawdust, insulation dust, and
Disposable foam ear plugs (B) will do in a pinch, but they most allergens. A half mask (B) has replaceable filters
tend to loosen. Foam earplugs connected with a head that block out additional particles, along with some fumes.
Proof 1 2C
band (C) stay put longer. A respirator (C) provides the most complete breathing
protection. It has interchangeable cartridges (D).
PLANNING & BASICS 11
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building department will also require copies. Draw in
the property lines, existing structures, trees, gardens,
and any other nearby features that may impact your
new project. Make sure to note the location and
height of overhead utility lines. They should be distant
at least twice the height of the swingset or fort; if not,
contact an electrician or the utility company about
Finding the Right Spot having the utility lines moved or raised.
Make several copies of the site plan, then sketch in
the structure you plan to build so you can determine
if you have enough clearance, both for the structure
A fter you decide on a project for your yard—but
before you buy any supplies—you’ll need to
figure out exactly how big the project needs to be
and for the activity that will be going on around it.
Playgrounds need an additional 6 feet of clearance
all the way around the built structure and swingsets
and then lay it out on the yard to make sure it’s going have to have clear space from their center equal to
to fit. If you’re constructing a large play structure or twice their height (thus, if the swingset is 8 feet high,
sports court, draw an accurate site plan of your yard you’ll need 16 feet of open space on both sides of
on a sheet of graph paper. If you need a permit, the the beam).
THE YARD SURVEY
Accurate yard measurements are critical for planning the size and placement of backyard structures. They also help you
work out how to level uneven areas, drain wet spots, and landscape. To sketch your survey, follow these steps:
1 2
Sketch your yard and all its main features on a sheet Take triangulated measurements to locate other
of paper. Assign a key letter to each point. Measure features, such as trees that don’t lie along straight lines.
all straight lines and record the measurements on Triangulation involves locating a feature by measuring its
a notepad. distance from any two points whose positions are known.
3 4
Plot irregular boundaries and curves, and note high spots Sketch elevations to show slopes. Measure the vertical
or low-lying areas that need attention. Plot these features drop of a slope using different-sized stakes and string.
by taking a series of perpendicular measurements from Connect the string to the stakes so it is perfectly horizontal.
Proof 1 2C
a straight reference line, such as the edge of your house Measure the distance between the string and ground at 2'
or garage. intervals along the string.
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Improving Uneven Ground
Use a hand tamp to compact the soil you add. Don’t overtamp
the soil where you’ll be planting grass or it could become too
dense for a healthy lawn.
Create level areas for playing lawn sports such as croquet,
badminton, and bocce. Drive stakes to outline the perimeter
of the area you want to level. Run mason’s strings between
the stakes and level them. Find the high point and add soil
to raise the surrounding ground. Or, find the low point and
excavate around it.
How to Improve Drainage
1 2
Runoff channel
Remove a section of sod and dig a shallow drainage trench Replace the sod in the trench, compressing it against the
Proof 1 2C
sloping to the center, creating a V shape. Use the shovel to soil and then thoroughly watering it to create a natural-
smooth the sides as you work. looking swale.
PLANNING & BASICS 13
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Terrace Hillsides with Retaining Walls
Timbers are a fast, relatively inexpensive
way to build a retaining wall. Fill ½" per row batter
Coarse gravel
the space behind them with gravel
to keep them dry, and lock the wall
against the hillside with T-shaped
“deadman” anchors.
5 × 6 timber
Deadman
Perforated drain pipe
Landscape fabric
Compactable gravel sub-base
Interlocking blocks are a permanent
solution to a sloping yard. They don’t
require mortar and are simple to install.
Overlapping flanges
Coarse gravel
First row installed
upside down
Perforated drainpipe
WHY TERRACE? Landscape fabric
Using retaining walls to
create terraces in your yard
Compactable gravel sub-base
is an effective way to make
Proof 1 2CT
sloping ground usable for
recreational activities.
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SAFE SURFACES
One of the keys to a safe playground is having a surface
Wood mulch
that cushions your children when they fall. Falls account
for approximately three-quarters of all playground
injuries, according to the US Consumer Products Safety
Commission. Including a safe surface, therefore, is an
important part of your play area.
Stay away from hard surfaces such as asphalt,
concrete, dirt, and grass. Some of the more
common loose-fill materials you can use for your
playground include: Wood chips
Wood mulch: Wood mulch is essentially wood that has
been chopped into small pieces by a wood chipper. It
is available by the truckload or can be purchased by
the bag.
Wood chips: Wood chips are small pieces of wood,
twigs and leaves of similar sizes that have been through
a wood chipper. The chips come from tree limbs,
branches, and brush. It is also readily available.
Engineered
Engineered wood fibers: This material is uniformly sized wood fibers
shredded hardwood fibers.
Sand: Both fine sand and coarse sand can be
used for playground surfaces. Sand is fairly
inexpensive; however, it’s easily displaced and gets in
children’s clothing.
Pea gravel: Pea gravel is small round pieces of washed
gravel, generally less than 3⁄8" in diameter. Gravel is Sand
less likely to attract animals than sand or wood. The
disadvantage is that gravel can freeze together and
become hard in freezing temperatures.
Shredded tires: Shredded tires are just that: shredded
tires. They have superior shock-absorbing qualities
and will not deteriorate over time. Be sure to use
shredded tires that do not contain wire from steel-belted
tires and that have been treated to keep them from
discoloring clothing. Pea gravel
Each of these surfaces is relatively easy to install in a
play area. Apply the material you choose to a depth of
12" and extend it at least 70" in all directions from the
play equipment for maximum protection against falls.
For swings, the surface should extend to a distance
twice the height of the swings both in front and in back
of each swing. If you have an 8' swing, for instance,
cushion a surface that extends 16' in front and in back
of the swing. Shredded tires
You’ll either need to build a retaining barrier or dig a
pit to contain the surface material. The area should
have good drainage so the material doesn’t sit in
water. Most surfaces need periodic maintenance,
Proof 1 2C
such as grading or adding more material to keep an
adequate depth.
PLANNING & BASICS 15
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Outdoor Building Materials
B ackyard recreational structures have to stand up
to years of hard use and hard weather, and any
material used to make them must be both sturdy and
areas it may be available only through special order.
Although cedar generally costs more than treated
pine, it will not last as long as treated lumber if it’s
rot- or rust-resistant. in contact with the ground (you can increase cedar’s
Generally, the least expensive and most widely rot resistance by treating it with wood preservative).
available wood used for exterior structures is Often, builders will use treated pine to construct
pressure-treated pine (here, “pine” typically includes structural members such as posts and framing, and
several evergreen species related to pine, including then use cedar, which is warmer and more attractive,
spruce and fir). Current treatment solutions for for decking, railings, and trim.
preserving wood include C-A (Copper Azole), ACQ Other naturally rot-resistant woods sometimes
(Alkaline Copper Quartenary), and Borate. All may be sold at lumberyards are redwood, cypress, and ipé (a
used for any backyard application as long as the wood South American wood), but these are not as widely
will not be exposed to salt water on a regular basis. If available and can be prohibitively expensive.
your wood is green-treated (C-A or ACQ), you must Composite and plastic lumber suitable for
use hot-dipped, galvanized fasteners that are made exterior projects are sold in increasing quantities
of triple-dipped, stainless steel, or specially coated and selections at home centers and lumberyards. It’s
screws approved for treated wood. Green-treated more expensive than treated wood but has a perfectly
wood products cause metal to corrode rapidly, which smooth appearance and won’t warp, crack, or splinter
can lead to premature structural failure if you use as it ages. It’s an excellent choice for trim and decking,
unapproved metal hardware. CCA, the controversial but it is not rated for structural use. Decking must
arsenic-based treatment chemical, was pulled from be supported every 16 inches to avoid sagging. This
the market several years ago. type of lumber can be cut and drilled just like wood
Cedar, which is naturally rot-resistant, is sold at but may require different fasteners, so check the
most lumberyards and home centers, though in some instructions when you buy it.
E
D
C
B
A
Cedar and pressure-treated pine are used frequently for building recreational structures, but
composite boards and other species of wood can be used effectively under some conditions.
Wood and wood-based products for outdoor building include: Douglas fir (A), cedar (B),
pressure-treated pine (C), hollow composite material (D), solid composite material (E).
Proof 1 2C
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C
B
A D
E
F
G
Use exterior-rated fasteners for outdoor projects. Shown here is a sampling of outdoor fasteners and hardware: Triple-dipped
galvanized joist hangers (A); galvanized/exterior-rated carriage bolts, lag bolts, washers and nuts (B); triple-dipped galvanized
post standoffs (C); galvanized corner brackets (D); joist-hanger nails (E); coated deck screws in various lengths (F); galvanized
common nails (G).
HAULING MATERIALS
You can save delivery charges
(usually $35 to $50) and control
delivery times by hauling landscape
materials yourself in a pickup or
trailer. The yard workers at the supply
center will load your vehicle free of
charge with a front-end loader or skid
loader. Do not overload your vehicle.
Although most operators are aware
of load limits, they will typically put
in as much as you tell them to. As
a general rule of thumb, a compact
truck (roughly the size of a Ford
Ranger) can handle one scoop of
dirt, sand or gravel, which is about
¾ of a cubic yard; a half-ton truck
(Ford F-150) will take a scoop and a
half (a little over a cubic yard), and a
three-quarter ton truck (F-250) can
haul two scoops (one and a half cubic
yards) safely. Be sure to check the
Proof 1 2C
gross vehicle weight and payload data
label on the driver’s door.
PLANNING & BASICS 17
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A
Tools B
M ost of the projects in this book can be built with
standard construction and yard tools, but you
may want to rent specialty tools on a project-by-
project basis. Everything from small hand tools and
power tools to front-end loaders are available at tool
rental stores, and it’s well worth a visit or a look at
C
a rental catalog to see what’s available. Although
rentals can be expensive, they can literally save days
of hard labor, not to mention sore backs.
A
B D
A few of the hand power tools you'll need for just about any
backyard building project include an impact driver (A), a
jigsaw (B), a circular saw (C), and a drill/driver (D).
C
D
A
B
E
Pneumatic tools include: air compressor (A), framing-nail gun (B),
air hammer with chisel bits (C), finish-nail gun (D), air hose (E).
C
A two-person
power auger
makes quick
work of posthole
digging. Be
sure to have
your property
inspected and
flagged for
underground lines E
3
before you dig. D
Proof 1 2C
Specialty tools include: tamping machines (A), sod cutter (B),
power auger (C), hand tamper (D), chainsaw (E).
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A
C D
E
B
H
F
G I
L
K
J
P
V
O Q
S
N
M
T
U
R
W
X
Y
AA
BB
Z
Hand tools include: caulk gun (A), tape measure (B), chalk line (C), compass (D), garden hose (E), bow saw (F), plumb bob (G),
combination square (H), speed square (I), pressure sprayer (J), mason’s line (K), pry bars (L), square and round shovels (M),
garden rake (N), posthole digger (O), hoe (P), carpenter’s level (Q), framing square (R), putty knife (S), wood chisel (T), awl (U),
Proof 1
socket wrench (V), hammer (W), rubber mallet (X), pruning shears (Y), metal shears (Z), bar clamps (AA), pipe clamps (BB).
PLANNING & BASICS 19
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Proof 1 2C
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Play Structures
A t a time when technology dominates children’s lives,
a place for them to enjoy pure, unadulterated play
is more essential than ever. Simple, physical play is not
only great exercise, but it’s also a key part of childhood,
one of the joys of literally not having a care in the world.
Sure, you can head to the nearest park or school
playground, but just how often can you honestly say
you’ll do that? The much better option is a backyard
play structure, one that kids can enjoy on a whim and
that you can supervise with a cool drink in your hand
and a hamburger on the grill.
The right play structure isn’t necessarily the biggest
or fanciest. It’s the one that is best suited to the age,
abilities, and preferences of your child. That usually
means choosing a playset design based on the age of
the children that will use it most. Low platforms and
easily gripped features will be much better for younger
children, while older kids can safely face the challenges
of a more vertical structure, one that includes a high
slide, ladder-access fort, or monkey bars.
No matter the size or complexity of the unit you
build, it has to be safe. That starts with the base you
set down underneath the play structure and continues
through every detail of construction. You’ll find all the
fine points of play-structure safety in the pages that
follow, and you’ll also find a look at the different options
for building one. You can buy precut systems that take
all the guesswork out of the project in exchange for
a significantly higher price tag, or you can build your
own design from scratch. That will entail a lot more
work but will also yield the satisfaction that the play
structure is tailored to your children and their friends.
In this chapter:
• Choosing a Play System
• Playground Safety
Proof 1 2C T
• Precut Playground Kit
• DIY Playset
• DIY Swingset
PLAY STRUCTURES 21
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Choosing a Play System
Y ou have several options when it comes to making
your backyard a kid’s paradise. You can always
go the quick and easy route by having professionals do
disadvantage is that it can be a lot of money—three to
four times as much as a comparable precut package
that you assemble yourself.
the whole project for you, soup to nuts. Of course, that Buy a precut package. This option is the simplest
can set you back quite a bit of money. Fortunately, if and most failsafe for the DIYer. The playground is
you’re the roll-up-your-sleeves type, there are plenty of already designed, all the pieces are cut (although
other options to getting a play structure built. Pick the some packages require you to buy additional standard
right option for you, your budget, and your skills. lengths of lumber), and all accessories and hardware
Hire a playground builder. This is the simplest are included. You’ll have to dig holes and do some
option. A number of local and national companies drilling and bolting, but other than that you just follow
offer a wide range of models, from basic play areas to the instructions. Most companies offer a number of
small mansions, that they will build and install. The options and add-ons, so you can usually get everything
advantage of hiring one of these companies is that you and your children want in a playground. Plus, the
they have experience, use high-quality materials, offer safety features are all designed in. The disadvantage
dozens of fun options, are up-to-date on all the codes is that you’re paying several times the cost of the
and safety features, guarantee their work, and they materials for someone to design the playground and
don’t require anything from you except money. The cut and package all the pieces for you.
Proof 1 2C
A playset structure is the heart of any backyard playground. Choosing the model you want is the first step toward deciding how
much of the work, if any, you can handle by yourself.
22 PLAY STRUCTURES & BACKYARD FUN
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Buy a plan. Detailed playset plans including full this is the most economical way to go. However, this
lumber lists are available in books and online for option will take more time than any of the other
prices ranging from free to hundreds of dollars. The options—and this may be just what you’re looking for:
more expensive plans often include some hardware a fun project for your kids that is a fun project for you
and accessories, and may even offer customer to build! With the availability of photos, plans, and
support; the free plans are of varying quality, ranging how-to information on the Internet, it’s not difficult
from up-to-date plans available from lumberyards to to reverse-engineer features you’re not sure about,
reproductions of ancient magazine and book plans. and accessories like swings and slides always include
These can be good starting points for a moderately installation guidelines. Before building, make sure you
experienced DIYer who can read blueprints and make have up-to-date information about safety features
adjustments as necessary. and requirements (see Consumer Product Safety
Design and build your own. If you’re an Commission guidelines in the Resources section,
experienced builder and can make scaled drawings, page 141).
You can purchase truly awe-inspiring playsets
that will be the envy of the neighborhood, if
you’re willing to pay a steep price. Many of
these include customizable options.
Proof 1 2C
PLAY STRUCTURES 23
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for all materials. You can ensure the absolute safety of
any play structure you install by observing some basic
rules when building it.
• Drive nailheads and set screwheads completely into
the wood so the heads are flush with the surfaces.
Nails or screws that stick out of the wood can pose
Playground Safety a serious risk to children. When you’ve finished
building your project, examine it for fasteners that
are popping out. Also check for nails or screws
that have gone completely through boards and are
Y ou can choose plastic rather than wood for your
playset, or pick swings and a climbing wall instead
of a fort, but safety is not a choice. Safety should be
sticking out the other side. If that happens, clip the
end off or grind it down flush with the board.
the very first thing you think about when considering • Countersink or counterbore holes for anchor bolts
a playset, and it should lead every decision so the heads and nuts are recessed.
throughout design, planning, and building. For
example, if you plan on building multiple recreation • Crimp hooks with pliers so sharp edges are
structures in the same backyard, keep at least a not exposed.
9-foot buffer zone between them. Securely mount
play structures to existing framework or anchor • Conduct regular inspections of the structures and
them to the ground. And regardless of whether you’re look for unusual wear and tear, loose boards or
building a prefab unit or working from plans you’ve connections, and loose rails. Replace hardware if
purchased, always follow manufacturer instructions needed, only with identical hardware.
ARE POST FOOTINGS NECESSARY?
A thick bed of mulch Pouring concrete footings to anchor structural
or wood chips such as components results in a rock-solid playground, but the
the base of this playset
process adds hard work and expense. Poured footings are
ensures that any falls
not always necessary, especially if you’re building a wide
result in a soft landing.
or low structure or using angled supports (like those used
for swingsets). Here’s a breakdown of the advantages and
disadvantages of pouring concrete post footings:
Advantages
• Creates a stable, permanent base that won’t tip or
move or sag
• Anchors swingsets and other play equipment solidly
• Makes building on uneven ground easier
PLAYGROUND SAFETY • Allows you to make tall, narrow structures and
cantilevers without danger of tipping or movement
For more in-depth information on playground safety,
• Structure can eventually be converted to a storage
visit the following websites:
or garden shed
• National Program for Playground Safety:
www.playgroundsafety.org Disadvantages
• US Consumer Product Safety Commission: • Adds time and expense to the project, especially if
www.cpsc.gov/safety-education/safety-guides/ you are building in rocky or hard clay soil
playgrounds
Proof 1 2C
• Structures that can’t be moved or disassembled
• Voice of Play: www.voiceofplay.org/playground-safety easily may interfere with future landscaping
24 PLAY STRUCTURES & BACKYARD FUN
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Securing Playground Equipment
Secure the base of any ladders, climbing walls, or ramps. Any Screw-in anchors help keep playground structures from
Author ISBN # Author's review
shifting of access structures can cause tumbles from on high, rocking or tipping, though theyBackyard
can Recreation
be difficult to install in
0781760607 (if needed)
OK Correx
Document name
and possible injuries. A great way to anchor ladder bases is hard clay or rocky soil. Make sure anchors don’t create a
Mulch-F18.eps
Date
Ar tist Date Initials
with a cleat staked into the ground and attached directly to tripping hazard. Accurate Ar t, Inc.
12/29/2009
Check if revision CE's review
the ladder. BxW 2/C 4/C OK Correx
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
Initials Date
28w x 23d
SPREAD THE PLAYGROUND MULCH
According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission,
about 40,000 children a year visit hospital emergency 4 × 4 post Mulch
rooms due to falls from playground equipment. A safe
playground will have a cushioning surface, such as mulch
or wood chips. Most home playgrounds, however, are 12"
located directly on grassy lawns because that is an easy,
cost-free surface. However, any grass lawn will become
compacted and hard eventually, making falls dangerous.
And, of course, you should never build a playground on Dirt
hard surfaces like concrete or asphalt.
The supports for playground structures need to be Screw anchor Landscape timber
anchored on solid, undisturbed ground, so the mulch
layer is usually added after the playground is constructed.
Once all of the structural elements are anchored, remove some dirt from around the play area—slightly slope the grade
away from the supports for the tower and swings. The mulch should extend at least 6' out from all structures and 16'
beyond the support beam of a swing. The cushion layer should be installed over landscape fabric to a depth of at
least 12". You can reach that depth either by excavating or by adding landscape timbers around the edges to contain
the mulch.
Proof 1
PLAY STRUCTURES 25
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Precut Playground Kit
I f you want to design and build a backyard
playground that meets your needs, but you don’t
want to start from scratch, a good option is to buy
footings, it’s even more important for the ground
underneath the tower and swingset to be very level.
To level and smooth the playground area and to stop
a precut playground kit. Most home centers and a grass and weeds from growing through it, cut out the
number of Internet suppliers sell do-it-yourself sod in the play area, or at least in the area where the
playground packages containing parts and hardware structures go, before you begin building.
to make a complete play area. Some of the kits include Some playground kits include all the necessary
all of the wood, while others include a list of lumber drill bits and drivers. If your kit doesn’t, you’ll need a
that you must buy with the set. Dozens of different standard selection of spade bits and drill bits, as well
designs are available, from a basic swingset and slide as countersink bits for #6 and #8 screws. You’ll also
to elaborate, multilevel play areas with numerous extra need a magnetized Phillips head driver for your drill.
features. Most manufacturers design their systems so
that optional features can be easily added on. NOTE: The instructions in the following project
Most playground systems are designed to be are intended as a general guide for installing a
installed with poured concrete footings, but in some playground kit that includes precut lumber. The
cases you may be able to get by with simply anchoring type of playground you purchase may use different
the posts (see page 25). If you choose not to pour materials and techniques than shown here.
Precut playground packages contain
everything you need except tools. A
homeowner with basic skills can put
together a play area like this in one or
two weekends.
Proof 1 2C
26 PLAY STRUCTURES & BACKYARD FUN
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Playground kits generally contain all necessary hardware and accessories, and some or all of the wood (top photo). Additional
accessories, such as slides, are purchased separately (bottom photo). If you need to purchase additional wood, the kit’s
shipping carton will show a list of extra lumber required (this will be an extra cost). Playground mulch must also be purchased
Proof 1
separately. See page 15 for information about playground mulch.
PLAY STRUCTURES 27
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Author ISBN # Author's review
Backyard Recreation 0781760607 (if needed)
Document name OK Correx
Playground kit-F02.eps
Artist Date Initials Date
12/17/2009
Accurate Art, Inc.
PLAYGROUND KIT Check if revision CE's review
BxW 2/C 4/C OK Correx
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
Initials Date
37w x 19d
Canopy frame
Canopy
Swingset beam
Fort wall
Tower
Swingset standards
Ladder
Climbing wall
Slide Swings
Climbing rope
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Framing square Mason’s string Work gloves
Carpenter’s level Line level 2 × 6 or 2 × 8
Socket wrench Power saw Brackets
Adjustable wrench Clamps Bolts
Drill/driver Ladder 1½", 2½" deck screws
Sawhorses Spacers Tape measure
Shovels Screwdriver Swing hangers
Posthole digger Lag screws 1½" panhead screws
(if screw-in anchors don’t work Anchor screws Landscape fabric
with your soil)
Playset kit Mulch
Stakes
Eye and ear protection Screw-in anchors
Proof 1
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How to Install a Playground Kit
1 2
Prepare the installation area. Use strings Begin assembling a tower. Towers are the principal structural elements in any
and stakes to outline the area and playground kit. They support slides and other accessories. Generally, they are
then cut out the sod in the play area comprised of fairly simple frames and beams. For the kit shown here, assemble the
(buy or rent a sod cutter if you wish to framework of the tower one side at a time, and then join the sides together on top of
replant the sod elsewhere in your yard). flat pieces of 2 × 6 or 2 × 8. Use the drilling template included in the kit as a guide
Level the ground. Where possible, level for driving countersunk screws. Locate screws carefully—metal brackets that cover
the ground using the lowest spot as a the screwheads are often added later, so the screws have to be positioned carefully.
starting point and excavating high areas Raise the tower.
to that point. Add landscape fabric.
3 4
Screw the brackets to the tower frame corners, making sure Install the center joists that connect the platform frames,
that the bolt hole on the long side of the bracket lines up fastening them with countersunk 2½" deck screws.
with the centers of the 2 × 4s behind it. Using the large holes Make certain all screwheads are fully seated beneath the
in the brackets as guides, drill holes for the bolts. To avoid wood surface.
splintering the back sides, stop drilling as soon as the bit
starts to poke through the back, then finish drilling from the
Proof 1 2C
other side. Check to make sure everything is still square, and
then install and tighten the bolts. (continued)
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5
Install the deckboards with 1½" deck screws driven into countersunk pilot holes, starting with the two outside pieces. Try to
make sure the ends of the deck boards are aligned during installation—clamping a stop block or spacer block to the deck-
board support will help align your workpieces. The drainage gaps between the deck boards must be less than ¼".
6 7
Extend the tower walls to the full height with additional 2 × 4 Install the outer framework of 2 × 4s to support the roof of the
Proof 1 2C
pieces. Use the drill guide or template (if provided with your playground structure, using corner brackets provided by the
kit) to ensure regular alignment of all screws. kit manufacturer.
30 PLAY STRUCTURES & BACKYARD FUN
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8
Frame for slide
Spacer
9
Add additional framing to strengthen the sides of the tower. Install the bottom railings and the top back and side railings
The framing on the right will help support the swingset and for the tower structure. Clamp a straight piece of wood on
the climbing bar and climbing wall; the 2 × 4s on the left are top of (or underneath) the railing at the 1" point to create the
used to support the slide. setback and to make installation easier. Cut spacers to make
the gap even, but check the gap before screwing in the last
few boards, just in case, and adjust if necessary.
11
10
Attach railings, siding, and trim. Install the front railing first, Install the rest of the roof frame. Use clamps to hold pieces
using a 3⁄16" spacer. Then, add the trim pieces. This step is in position before attaching them. Check the center vertical
Proof 1 2C
easier if you tilt the structure backwards to the ground—but pieces with a carpenter’s level to make sure they are plumb.
don’t try this without a helper. (continued)
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12
Begin building the swingset. The swing structure shown here is supported by a pair of angled posts in an A-frame configuration
on the end farther from the tower, and a single angled leg on the tower end. Fasten the three legs of the swingset together (they
are made with doubled 2 × 4s), and then bolt on the triangular bracket for each leg. Construct the assembly by bolting the
triangular brackets together and then screwing on the crosspiece. Add the small brackets to the inside of the crosspiece, with
the short legs against the crosspiece (inset). Trim the leg bottoms so they will lie flat on the ground.
14
Join the beams
and legs. Screw
the 2 × 6 beam
pieces to the Swing
brackets, making hanger
sure the legs are
exactly parallel
and square to the
beam. Drill the 3⁄8"
holes for the bolts
using the brackets
as a guide. Then
screw the second
layer of 2 × 6s
to the first with Attach the swing hardware. First, turn
2½" screws. the swing assembly over and place it
on sawhorses. Drill guide holes and
fasten the sides together with bolts. Drill
guide holes for the swing hangers and
Proof 1 / 2C
lag screws and install them so that the
13 moving hanger swings perpendicular to
the beam.
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15 16
Add the swingset to the tower. Lift the swingset into place and Installing the climbing wall. Attach the climbing wall supports
fasten it to the tower with a bolt through the swing beam and to the tower frame with the provided brackets. The ends of the
a 2 × 4 crosspiece near the base fastened with metal angles supports are angle-cut at the top and the bottom. Attach
and bolts. the top and bottom crossboards to the outer supports and
then center the middle support board and attach it by driving
deck screws through the crossboards and into the support.
17 18
Stop
Add the remaining crossboards in the Start building the climbing bar assembly. The climbing bars function as a ladder that
climbing wall, working down from the is mounted to the tower on the side opposite from the climbing wall. Assemble the
Proof 1 / 2C
top and making sure the boards are climbing bar standards with four triangular metal brackets included with the kit.
fitted tightly together. The stops on the sides of the brackets that contact the standard will set the correct
angle for the standards if the boards are tight against the stops. (continued)
PLAY STRUCTURES 33
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19 20
Attach the climbing bars to the standards, making sure the Connect the climbing bar to the tower. First, dig holes into
standards are parallel and oriented correctly. Use 1½" the play surface at the correct locations for the legs of the
panhead screws to attach the bars at 12" intervals on the climbing bar standards. Set the legs into the 2"-deep holes
bottom leg and at 10¾" intervals along the top (or as directed (inset), and then fasten the top ends of the standards to the
by the instructions for your kit). tower with brackets and lag screws.
21
Anchor all sides of the swingset, along with the
climbing bar and climbing wall, using screw-in
anchors (see page 25). If the anchors don’t work
properly in your soil type, dig a 2'-deep posthole, fill
it with concrete, and set the anchor in that. Bolt the
anchor to the structure with 3⁄8 × 1½" lag screws.
Proof 1 / 2C
34 PLAY STRUCTURES & BACKYARD FUN
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22
Attach the slide. First, position the slide (left photo) and then attach it to the tower at the top with fasteners as provided (or
recommended) by the manufacturer. Then, bolt the slide at the base to a screw-in anchor.
TIP: Attach the bottom of the slide to a 4 × 4 spacer and then attach the spacer to a screw-in anchor (right photo). This
provides a solid footing for the slide while raising it so the bottom is not completely covered by groundcover or mulch.
Add other accessories, including
swings, the roof, and the climbing rope.
23 You’ll need to drill access holes for the
climbing rope in the climbing wall. Add
approved groundcover (see page 15).
Proof 1 / 2C
PLAY STRUCTURES 35
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DIY Playset
I f you want a playset, designing and building your
own from scratch is not as easy or fast as buying
a precut system, but if you have the tools and know-
slides, a swingset, a climbing rope, and other features
as your time and budget allow. Before you start, mark
the area where the play structure will go in your yard,
how you can save money and create a more unique then add additional area for playground mulch (at
and imaginative playset by doing it yourself. least 6 feet out in all directions). Cut away the sod in
The simplest way to get started is to design and this area and level the ground—preferably by digging
build the playground in separate parts, beginning out soil instead of filling in, since fill will continue to
with a simple, rectangular platform. You can then add compress even after it is compacted.
PLAYSET HARDWARE
Although it’s a little more work initially, the best way to make sure your playground will be solid and stable is to pour
concrete footings and anchor the platform posts to the footings. Ideally, the footings should extend below the frostline
(check with your local building department if you do not know your frostline depth). If you pour concrete footings, make
sure that the concrete is covered by several inches of dirt or playground mulch to prevent injuries.
When building your playset, you can set the posts into postholes, add a few inches of gravel, and then fill the hole with
concrete, or you can set the posts into exterior-rated metal post bases that are anchored to the concrete.
NOTE: Metal post bases are designed to work in groups and are not a good choice for single posts or even post pairs.
They do not provide sufficient side-to-side rigidity.
If your structure is very wide or low to the ground, you can forego footings and instead bolt the posts to a framework of
2 × 6s (or larger), which will spread the weight over a large area and keep the platform stable. If you attach a swing or
cantilevered beam to the platform, use one of these methods to hold the structure in place: fasten long screw anchors at
the corners; attach structure to concrete footings; or weigh the structure down with an attached sandbox.
Hardware and equipment specially
designed for playgrounds can be
purchased in kits or as needed.
In addition to saving time, using
D
engineered hardware is a safe
method for designing critical joinery.
For example, if you are wondering
how many lag bolts you need to
make a post/beam connection on A
a swingset, you’ll find the easiest
answer is zero if you purchase an B
engineered A-frame bracket instead. C
A-frame bracket (A), screw-in
anchors (B), swing hardware (C),
swing chain and seat (D), galvanized G E
joist hangers and brackets (E), hot-
dipped galvanized fasteners (F),
hot-dipped glavanized eye bolt (G). F
Proof 1
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Proof 1 / 2C
Save money by designing and building your own play structure using standard building materials and your own ingenuity.
PLAY STRUCTURES 37
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Artist Date Initials Date
02/24/2010
Accurate Art, Inc.
Check if revision CE's review
BxW 2/C 4/C OK
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
Initials Date
30w x 30d
PLAYSET
MATERIALS
(4) 4 × 4" post bases
(4) 8"-dia. × 2' tube forms L
Concrete
Landscape fabric F F
(1) 1 × 3" × 8' G
(1 lb.) 2" deck screws
E
(2 lb.) 2½" deck screws
E
(44) 3⁄8 × 5" carriage bolts,
G
washers, nuts
Joist hanger brackets and nails
H
(8) 2¾" metal corners
(2) 1¼ × 85⁄8 × 39⁄16" U-shaped
metal straps
(6) 3⁄8 × 6" carriage bolts,
washers, nuts D E
(1) 3⁄8 × 5" eyebolt with washer, A
lock washer, nut B
C A
18' ¾"-dia. rope
A
Metal thimble for rope A
I
Lumber (see below)
I
B
C
J
K
Anchor
CUTTING LIST
KEY NO. DIMENSION MATERIAL KEY NO. DIMENSION MATERIAL
BASE & PLATFORM LADDER
A 4 3½ × 3½ × 10' Pine (PT) I 2 1½ × 3½ × 61½" Pine (PT)
B 2 1½ × 7¼ × 51" " J 4 1½ × 3½ × 17" "
C 2 1½ × 7¼ × 69" " CLIMBING ROPE
D 4 1½ × 5½ × 51" " K 1 3½ × 3½ × 7' Pine (PT)
E 4 1½ × 5½ × 58" " L 1 3½ × 3½ × 30" "
F 2 1½ × 3½ × 48" "
G 4 5/4 × 5½ × 58" Decking (PT)
Proof 1 2 T
H 14 5/4 × 5½ × 42" Decking (PT)
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Job: 13349
13349 Title:
Title: #306408_Black
#306408_Black &
& Decker
Decker Play
Play Structures
Structures &
& Backyard Fun12/6/18
Backyard Fun (MBI) 9:17 AM
(MBI)
Text GSC
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Page:38
How to Build a DIY Playset
1 2
Lay out the project area, including the required excavation of Mark digging points on the ground directly below post
surface materials for the buffer zone around the playset. Use locations. Untie the mason’s strings.
batterboards and mason’s string to outline the area, making
sure the corners are square. Tie a second set of strings to NOTE: Contact your local utilities company to have them
the squared layout strings so they intersect directly over the mark buried gas, plumbing, or electrical lines before you
centers of the post locations. start digging.
3 4
Dig holes for concrete footings using a posthole digger or a Fill the forms with concrete, tie the mason’s string back onto
power auger. Where feasible, dig at least a few inches past the the batterboards and level them, and then set J-bolts
Proof 1 2C
frostline for your area. into the concrete directly beneath the centers of the planned
post locations. (continued)
PLAY STRUCTURES 39
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5 6
Set the metal post bases and washers over the bolts and hand- Fasten the bottoms of the posts to the standoff hardware with
tighten the nuts (a standoff base is designed to elevate the 10d galvanized nails, joist hanger nails or other fasteners as
post bottom to eliminate ground contact while still holding specified by the post base manufacturer. All predrilled guide
the post securely). Leave one side of the post base open so holes in the hardware should be filled with a fastener. Plumb
you have access with an open-end wrench to tighten each nut and brace the posts.
after trimming and aligning the post tops.
NOTE: The tops of the 4 × 4 posts should be high enough
that they can all be trimmed back to final height later.
Temporary brace
7 8
Attach 2 × 6 pressure-treated frame boards to the posts so the Install landscape fabric. To prevent weeds and grass from
bottoms are level with one another and slightly above grade. growing through the sand, spread landscape fabric over the
Cut the 2 × 6s so they form a complete frame around the ground inside the structure area and staple it to the inside
posts once installed. Use clamps and deck screws to tack the surfaces of the 2 × 6 frame. Hold the top of the fabric back
members in place until they are leveled and located exactly about 3" from the tops of the frame boards. For extra holding
Proof 1 2 T
where you want them. After drilling the bolt guide holes, use power, use thin wood strips as retainers for stapling or nailing
a 1¼" spade bit to counterbore ½"-deep holes. Wrap masking the fabric.
tape around the spade bit to mark the ½" depth.
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Attach the platform side boards so the tops are approximately 59" above grade.
First, tack the side boards to the 4 × 4 posts with a 2½" deck screw at each end.
Make sure the sides and all other members are level and plumb and then drill
two bolt holes at each end for 3⁄8 × 5" carriage bolts. The end of each hole that will
receive the nut and washer should have a 1¼"-dia. × ½" deep counterbore. Do
not counterbore for carriage bolt heads. Tighten nuts onto the carriage bolts with a
socket wrench or impact driver.
9
10
Trim post tops. Identify the post with the
lowest post base and measure up on
that post to the finished post height for
the project. Mark the height and then
¾" use a laser level (or a straight board
with a carpenter’s level attached to it) to
transfer the post top height to the other
posts. After the frame and platform are
installed, trim the posts along the lines.
A cordless circular saw is a good tool for
trimming post tops.
11
Proof 1 2C
Add the platform support joists, using joist hanger hardware to support the 2 × 6 joist material between the side boards.
Space the joists equally. The tops of the joists should be flush with the tops of the side boards. (continued)
PLAY STRUCTURES 41
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12 13
Cut pieces of 5/4 decking (actual thickness is 1") for the Fasten 2 × 6 railings to the posts on the sides of the structure,
platform and install them with deck screws driven into the using 3⁄8 × 5" carriage bolts. The tops of the railings should
support joists. Arrange the boards on the joist supports first be 8' above ground. Counterbore the posts so the nuts and
and adjust them so the gaps between boards are equal, washers are recessed. Also install 2 × 4 railings on the other
consistent, and do not exceed ¼". Drive screws in a regular two sides (narrow sides) at 111" high. Paint or stain the
pattern, as the screwheads will be visible. playset with exterior-grade paint if desired.
SAFETY TIP
For safety, add wide balusters made from deck boards 14
to the sides. The gaps between boards should not
Proof 1 2C
exceed 3". Leave openings for ladders, slides, and any
other accessories you wish to attach. Fill the framed base enclosure with sand to create a sandbox
(or use mulch or pea gravel, if you prefer).
42 PLAY STRUCTURES & BACKYARD FUN
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How to Build a Ladder
1 2
Measure and cut the ladder standards
from a pressure-treated 2 × 4. Look
for tight-grained lumber with no
visible defects. The steps are set
at a 15° angle so they’ll be level
when the angled standards are set
on flat ground. The back edges of
the standards at the top are cut at a
75° angle.
15°
A wooden ladder provides easy, safe
access up into the fort portion of your
project. This ladder is sturdy and simple
to build. You’ll need: (2) 2 × 4 × 61½",
(4) 2 × 4 × 17", (1) 2 × 4 × 24", and
(8) 2¾" metal corners.
3 4
Box
Attach the steps. Nail one plate of each metal corner brace Attach a ladder base to the bottom of the ladder to function
to the ladder sides at the correct spacing (the steps generally as a spreader. Screw the 24"-long base to the bottoms of the
are 12" apart on-center) and then nail the bracket to the ladder sides with deck screws, then set the ladder in place on
Proof 1 2C
underside of the step using joist hanger nails. a bed of gravel. Secure the ladder to the playset deck through
the back with two deck screws per side driven into the frame.
PLAY STRUCTURES 43
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How to Attach a Slide
A slide is perhaps the most necessary accessory for any playset. Although it is
possible to build your own from scratch, the likelihood of obtaining satisfactory
results is low. Any building center that carries playset parts will also sell plastic slides
in many styles, colors, and sizes. You’ll need a slide, three #14 × 1¼" panhead
screws, a screw-in ground anchor, and a 3⁄8 × 1" hex bolt with washers and nuts.
2
Bolt hole
Bolt
Anchor screw
1 3
Mark the slide anchor location onto the Drive an anchor for the slide base into Reinstall the slide, driving the fasteners
ground using a cap nail. When using the ground, after removing the slide, through the top lip and into the playset
a thick bed of playground mulch, raise at the post marked in Step 1. The eye structure. Use an exterior bolt (3⁄8 × 1"
the bottom of the slide by attaching it to hook at the top should be aligned with is used here) to attach the base of the
a 4 × 4. This 60" slide is secured to the the bolt hole in the slide. slide to the anchor you’ve driven for
playset tower so the top edge is 60" above it. The base should be resting on solid
ground. To attach the slide temporarily, ground (not on mulch or other loose
drive #14 × 1¼" panhead screws through materials) or a spacer, as shown.
Proof 1
the screw holes in the slide lip.
44 PLAY STRUCTURES & BACKYARD FUN
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How to Add a Climbing Rope
1 2
Attach a 7'-long 4 × 4 to the top of Add a 4 × 4 brace with a 45° angle cut
the playset structure to support a at each end. The brace is attached
climbing rope. Use joist hanger nails with a 3⁄8 × 6" bolt at each end and
and U-shaped metal straps or long reinforced with the same U-shaped
metal straps to fasten the cantilevered strap hardware used to attach
4 × 4 to the post tops. the beam.
3 4
Hang the climbing rope. A 3⁄8 × 5" eyebolt Anchor the bottom of the rope to a
can be attached to the cantilevered end screw-in anchor or a board that’s bolted
of the beam, about 6" in, for an easy to the base of the fort. The rope should
A climbing rope can be attached to tie-off point. You can purchase fancier not hang loose for safety reasons. If you
a cantilevered support beam that is hardware, such as a swivel hook. Tie are tying the rope to a screw-in anchor,
Proof 1 2C
securely affixed to the top of your knots every foot or so in the rope for use a large enough knot to cover the
play structure. better gripping while climbing. top of the anchor screw eye.
PLAY STRUCTURES 45
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DIY Swingset
S wingsets are the most popular and common
playground feature, and for good reason. There is
something eternally pleasing about the simple back-
Stability is priority number one when it comes to
building a swingset. The joints must be secured for
safety and longevity—something that is achieved in
and-forth rhythm of a swing in motion. It’s relaxing, this structure using special A-frame brackets, and
enjoyable, and entertaining (even for adult kids). 2 × 6 cross braces. To ensure absolute stability, each
That’s why a backyard swingset is an absolute must- leg should be anchored in place to solid ground, not
have for any home with children. just set on top of loose infill.
Swings are virtually a requirement in any playset. This
swingset is bolted to a DIY playset, but it can easily be
modified into a freestanding swinging structure.
Proof 1 2CT
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BxW 2/C 4/C OK Correx
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
Initials Date
28w x 20d
SWINGSET
B
65°
A
A A
A
C
C
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Pencil
Circular saw
25°
Protractor
Power miter saw
Drill/driver
Spade bit
Sawhorses
Clamps
Stepladder
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
(8) 3⁄8 × 5" carriage bolts, nuts, washers CUTTING LIST
KEY NO. DIMENSION MATERIAL
(2) 3⁄8 × 6" carriage bolts, nuts, washers
A 4 3 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 104"
1 1
Pine (PT)
(2) Swingworks A-frame brackets
(see Resources, page 141) B 1 3 ⁄2 × 5 ⁄2 × 8'
1 1
"
Swing seats, chains, and hardware C 2 11⁄2 × 51⁄2 × 6' "
Proof 1
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How to Build a Swingset
1 2
Mark the posts for cutting. If you are using A-frame brackets Cut the long angles on each post with a circular saw,
(strongly recommended), purchase the hardware beforehand then square off the top edge with a power miter saw or
and mark the posts using the A-frame bracket as a guide. circular saw.
If you are not using brackets, use a protractor or a speed
square as a gauge to mark the tops of the posts at around
65° so they will meet to form a stable A-shaped structure with
sufficient leg spread.
3 4
Bolt the A-frame brackets onto the 4 × 6, and then predrill the Assemble the legs. Lay the 4 × 4 legs for one side on a flat
holes for the eye bolts that hold the swing. Use a long spade area, set the 4 × 6 on top of them, and then bolt the legs to the
Proof 1 2C
bit for the holes. brackets. Use the fasteners recommended by the hardware
manufacturer. You’ll need a helper to hold the 4 × 6 steady.
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5 6
Attach the second leg. Use a stepladder or helpers to hold the 4 × 4s steady and in Clamp the 2 × 6 ties in position. Drill the
place as you finish bolting into the brackets. bolt holes, and then counterbore the
holes on the inside. Bolt the 2 × 6 on
with 5" carriage bolts.
7 8
Anchor the swingset. Tack the swingset structure in place Hang the swings using the mounting hardware and chains or
against the platform of the adjoining playset. Using a long rope supplied with or recommended by the manufacturer.
Proof 1 2C
drill bit, drill through each 4 × 4 leg and bolt the swing to Test to make sure the ground clearance is adequate and
the platform. adjust as necessary.
PLAY STRUCTURES 49
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Proof 1
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Backyard Fun
E ven small backyards have room for a wide variety
of play structures and projects, from elaborate
playhouses to simple water slides. Most of the
projects in this chapter are based on traditional play—
modern variations of what kids (and even grownups)
have been doing for fun out in the backyard for
centuries. Most of them don’t have to cost a lot of
money either—even the more elaborate projects can
be downsized or simplified.
Some of the projects in this chapter are for small
children, some are primarily for older children,
and some can be enjoyed by all ages. As with any
project, keep safety in mind. Counterbore or bury
all protruding bolts and screws, round over sharp
edges, and inspect your work for places where
clothes or body parts can get trapped or snagged.
Apply mulch or another shock-absorbent material
anywhere there’s a chance of falling, because sooner
or later someone will. And remember to inspect the
project occasionally after it’s up and in use. Bolts can
loosen over time as the wood dries out and may need
retightening; wood can crack and warp as it ages,
creating sharp splinters; and pieces may break or
come loose due to hard use.
In this chapter:
• Timberframe Sandbox
• Seesaw
• Zipline
• Classic Tree Swing
• Jungle Gym
• Obstacle Course
• Swinging Rope Challenge
Proof 1
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
(14) 4 × 4" × 8' cedar
(1) 1 × 8" × 12' cedar
(2) 1 × 6" × 8' cedar
Timberframe Sandbox (2) 2 × 2" × 6' cedar
Coarse gravel
Sand
B uilding this sandbox requires a good deal more effort than if you
simply nailed four boards together and dumped a pile of sand in the
middle. The timber construction is both charming and solid. A storage
Wood sealer/protectant
Heavy-duty plastic sheeting
box at one end gives kids a convenient place to keep their toys. The or landscape fabric
opposite end has built-in seats, allowing children to sit above the sand as 2" galvanized screws
they play. 6" galvanized barn nails
The gravel bed and landscape fabric provide a nice base for the or landscape spikes
sandbox, allowing water to drain while keeping weeds from sprouting
Pavers (optional)
in the sand. The gravel and liner also keep sand from migrating out of
the box. The structure is set into the ground for stability and to keep the Child-safe friction hinges
top of the pavers at ground level so you can easily mow around them. Eye and ear protection
When your children outgrow the sandbox, you can turn it into a raised Work gloves
garden bed.
If you have
small children, a
backyard just isn’t
complete without
a sandbox. This
version is nicely
sized, sturdy, and
designed for ease
of cleaning.
Proof 1 2C
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TIMBERFRAME SANDBOX
I
H
G
J F
D
A
B
E
C
A
CUTTING LIST
Sandbox KEY PART NO. DIMENSION MATERIAL
sides
A Sandbox sides 8 3½ × 3½ × 92½" Ext. lumber
B Sandbox ends 8 3½ × 3½ × 44½" Ext. lumber
C Storage box wall 4 3½ × 3½ × 41" Ext. lumber
Plastic D Floor cleats 2 1½ × 1½ × 18" Ext. lumber
sheeting
E Floorboards 3 ¾ × 5½ × 41" Ext. lumber
Sand or landscape
fabric F Lid boards 3 ¾ × 7½ × 40½" Ext. lumber
G Lid cleats 3 1½ × 1½ × 18" Ext. lumber
Paver
Sand H Bench boards 2 ¾ × 5½ × 18" Ext. lumber
2" Gravel I Corner bench boards 2 ¾ × 5½ × 7" Ext. lumber
Proof 1 2 T
J Bench cleats 4 1½ × 1½ × 10" Ext. lumber
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How to Build a Timberframe Sandbox
TIMBERFRAME SANDBOX PREP
Although the construction details of this simple rectangular sandbox are important, the longevity and aesthetic value
depend just as much on proper site and material preparation. Cut the timbers with a circular saw, coat them with wood
sealer, and let them dry completely before building the box. Cut the storage floor cleats and flooring to length. Cut the seat
2 × 2" seat cleats and lid cleats. Cut the lid boards to length. Clip the seat boards with a 45° end cut and save the cut
piece. Set up a staging area with all the tools, hardware, lumber, and plastic tarp on which to place the sod you remove
from the sandbox trench. Mark the 48 × 96" excavation area outline with lime or landscaping paint. Use this outline to
guide positioning stakes at each corner, and strings for the outline.
Use a spade or shovel to remove the sod
inside the area, then dig a trench 2"
deep by 4" wide around the perimeter
inside the border. Place side and end
timbers in the trench and use a level at
the corners to ensure the timbers are
level. Drill two 3⁄16" pilot holes through
the sides and drive 6" barn nails
through the holes.
1
For the storage box, measure and mark
in from one end 18" on each side. Align
the box wall timber and score the soil
on either side of it. Remove the timber
and dig a 3"-deep trench for the wall
timber so that it sits ½" lower than the
rest of the frame. Drill 1⁄16" pilot holes
and fasten the frame to the wall ends
with 6" barn nails. Fill the sandbox
portion with 2" gravel, tamp it down,
and cover with perforated plastic sheet.
2
Proof 1
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3 4
Place a second level of timbers over the first, sandwiching the Screw the storage floor cleats to the sides with 2" galvanized
plastic sheet and staggering the timber joints with the bottom screws. Screw the floorboards to the cleats, leaving ½" gaps
joints. Drill pilot holes every 24" down into the first layer for drainage. Lay the lid boards side by side and position lid
and fasten the layers together with 6" galvanized barn nails. cleats on each side and in the middle. Drill pilot holes and
Repeat with the remaining layers, then build up the timber use 2" galvanized screws to fasten the cleats in place. Attach
wall, fastening the additional layers as before. Trim the excess the lid to the frame with the hinges.
sheeting with a utility knife.
5 6
Measure and mark ¾" down from the top of the sandbox Fill the sandbox with sand 4" from the top. Mark an area for
at two corners. Align the top edge of the bench cleats with the pavers around the sandbox, then remove sod and soil to
the marks and screw them to the frame. Screw the clipped a depth of the pavers plus 2". Spread a 2" layer of sand, then
corners of the bench board into the corner of the frame on smooth and tamp. Set the pavers in place using a level or
the cleats. Butt the seat to the clipped triangle and fasten the straightedge to ensure they are even and flush. Set the pavers
Proof 1 2C
seat to the cleats. Repeat with the second seat. by tapping them with a rubber mallet. Fill gaps between
pavers with sand, then spray with water.
BACKYARD FUN 55
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Premixed concrete Pipe joint compound
Gravel Handles (conduit fittings)
Lumber 3
⁄8 × 8" galvanized
Seesaw Mulch carriage bolts with
Exterior wood glue nuts and washers
Circular saw Galvanized pipe & fittings
F or kids, the seesaw (also called a teeter-totter) is
both enjoyable recreation and a good introduction
to simple machines and basic physics. It’s a revelation
Pipe wrench
Level
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
for a child to be able to lift a huge grownup off Sandpaper Protective finish
the ground just by having them sit closer to the
pivot point.
A seesaw can be as basic as a board laid across a a 3-foot drop and a 6-foot drop, changing a gentle
log, or it may be an elaborate wooden construction kid-friendly seesaw into a seesaw that terrifies (or
perfectly balanced on a pivot point that rotates in thrills) adults.
any direction while going up and down. If you design Make sure the pivot point is solid, either by
your own seesaw, experiment with it on graph paper building a wide, stable base or by embedding the
before building it. Draw different combinations of supporting posts in at least 2 feet of concrete. Lock
pivot point heights and board lengths; then see what the seesaw board onto the pipe or dowel that it pivots
happens when the board goes down. Small changes on ( for example, with pipe strap)—otherwise it can
in height and length can mean the difference between bounce off the pipe.
Whether you call it a seesaw or a
teeter-totter, this venerable plaything
has been a fixture for thousands of
years, and almost every culture has
developed a version of it. All you
need to make one is a long board
with handles and a center pivot.
Proof 1
56 PLAY STRUCTURES & BACKYARD FUN
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Text GSC Page:56
Author ISBN # A
Backyard Recreation 0781760607
Document name
Seesaw-F06.eps
Artist Date
12/14/2009
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
BxW
Accurate Art, Inc.
25w x 26d
Check if revision
BxW 2/C 4/C
SEESAW Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
25w x 26d
2/C
Author ISBN # Author's review
Backyard Recreation 0781760607 (if needed)
Document name OK Correx
D Handle-F07.eps
Artist
Accurate Art, Inc.
Date
12/14/2009
Check if revision
Initials Date
CE's review
BxW 2/C 4/C OK Correx
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
Initials Date
23w x 17d
4/C
L
E
F J J
G
K K
I
H
B C B
CUTTING LIST A A
KEY PART NO. DIMENSION MATERIAL
Initials
Mulch
A Fulcrum leg 2 36 × 1½" i.d. Galv. water pipe
B Support elbow 2 90° × 1½" i.d. Galv. water pipe
Sod Sod
C Fulcrum 1 10 × 1½" i.d. Galv. water pipe nipple
D Seat 1 1½ × 7¼" × 12' Ext. lumber
OK
Date
E Seat support 1 1½ × 7¼" × 8' Ext. lumber
Correx
F Stop block 2 3½ × 3½ × 7" Ext. lumber
G Closure strip 1 1½ × 7¼" × 9" Ext. lumber
H Handle base 2 Conduit Galv. pipe flange
I Handle support 2 Conduit Galv. pipe nipple
J Handle 4 Conduit Galv. pipe nipple
K Handle cap 4 Conduit Galv. pipe cap Concrete Gravel
L Handle T 2 Conduit Galv. tee fitting
A wide, stable base
allows you to set ORDER A SEESAW ONLINE
up this seesaw
on any level area. If you’re not sure you want to build your own
Seesaws large seesaw, or if you want a seesaw that’s not fixed
enough to be in place, many other models are available from
used by several retailers and online suppliers. (See Resources on
children at a page 141, or just search for Seesaws.)
time are available
from online Different online suppliers sell different components.
suppliers, and Some sell plans alone, along with shopping lists
can be assembled that will guide you to what you need from any home
with standard center. Other suppliers provide kits with hardware,
hand tools. instructions, and even toll-free numbers to call
if you need to ask questions. A few companies
offer turnkey seesaw kits with all the pre-cut
and prefinished lumber, hardware, and detailed
instructions included. The more the supplier offers,
the more expensive the kit will be.
Proof 1 2C
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How to Build a Seesaw
1
2
Build the fulcrum assembly from 1½" (inside diameter) Set the fulcrum assembly into concrete. Build a 2 × 4 brace
galvanized steel water pipe. Tighten a pair of 90° elbows to to support the assembly while the concrete hardens. The
the threaded ends of a 10" nipple. Use a pipe wrench to ends of the fulcrum legs should extend 14" into the concrete,
crank them at least a full turn past hand-tight. Use pipe joint making the top of the assembly approximately 24" above
compound or Teflon tape to lubricate the threads so you can grade. After digging the hole for the fulcrum, widen the base
tighten the fitting more easily. Add a 36" section of galvanized on all sides to create a bell shape for extra stability.
pipe to the open end of each elbow.
3
Proof 1 2C
Pour concrete into the hole. Add 2 to 4" of drainage gravel (such as 1-2" river rock) to the bottom of the hole before pouring the
concrete. Smooth the concrete surface with a trowel, forming a crown so water doesn’t collect.
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4 5
Make the seesaw board. The seesaw board is created from Glue and bolt 4 × 4 stop blocks to the seesaw board so they
a pair of 2 × 8s that are fastened together face-to face with fit around both sides of the pipe, which should fit snugly
construction adhesive and screws. Glue and screw the 2 × 8s between the blocks. Use two 3⁄8 × 8" carriage bolts for each
together, then mark the center and outside diameter of the side, making sure the bolt head is on the top (longer) 2 × 8
pipe on the bottom board. and the bolt is fastened on the bottom side (shorter).
7
Place the seesaw board onto the
pipe at the top of the fulcrum
assembly. Then attach a wood
closure strip beneath the fulcrum
bar to lock the seatboard in position.
6
Apply the finishing touches. Sand the boards using up to
150-grit sandpaper for a smooth finish that will resist splintering.
You may make small arched cutouts on both edges near the
seatboard ends if you wish to create a classic seesaw detail.
Attach a sturdy handle 18 to 24" from each end. Use very large
door pulls or custom-make the handles—the ones seen here
are made by fabricating rigid conduit and fittings into a T-shape.
Apply a protective finish (clear sealer or paint) to all wood
Proof 1 2C
surfaces. Occasionally lubricate the top bar in the fulcrum with
graphite spray to improve performance and decrease noise.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
(2) Metal thimbles Drill with spade bits and
for cable bit extender
(6) Stainless-steel
Zipline cable clamps
Heavy-duty, exterior-rated
eyebolts, washers, and
Discarded tire
nuts
¾" turnbuckle
A zipline is a simple contraption consisting of a Mulch Zipline kit
seat or handle hanging from a heavy-duty pulley Stepladder Eye and ear protection
that is suspended from a steel cable. The cable is
tied between a pair of trees, posts, or other sturdy Rubber mallet Work gloves
structures you can find or build—as long as one is
higher than the other. If you’re starting the cable from
a treehouse or platform, make sure any framing that
the eyebolt attaches to is rock-solid.
A zipline can be slow, gentle, and close enough to
the ground to push off and stop yourself with your
feet. Or, it can be very high and very fast, carrying
you down mountainsides or across lakes, rivers,
and canyons. The longest known zipline is 1.2 miles,
drops almost 1,000 feet, and reaches speeds of up to
100 miles per hour. These “extreme” ziplines should
be created by professionals only and used under the
supervision of a qualified professional.
You can create a smaller, safer version of that
mind-bending ride in your own backyard with a
length of steel cable, some long eyebolts, and a
zipline kit with a heavy-duty tandem pulley. Do
not use the standard pulleys sold at hardware
stores for ziplines—they’re not meant for this
application. Similarly, use only braided cable (usually
stainless steel) that has been specifically selected
and packaged for a zipline. You’ll find a number of
purveyors of zipline products on the Internet (see
Resources, page 141).
SAFETY
The minimum safety equipment for any backyard zipline
is a harness, helmet, and gloves. You may also want to
add knee and elbow pads. Ziplines should always be
used with adult supervision, and an adult should test
out any new zipline before kids use it. When deciding
a zipline kit to buy, check the US Consumer Product
Safety Commission website (www.cpsc.gov) for any
current or recent recalls. Make sure the zipline course
Proof 1 2CT
runs over soft bushes or infill, such as mulch.
Safe usage of any zipline requires safety equipment and
adults should always test out the zipline before kids use it.
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A kit and a few basic tools are all you need to install a zipline. Be sure to buy heavy-duty stainless-steel or galvanized fittings
(kits are available from online suppliers). Always check online reviews of zipline kits, and check the Consumer Product Safety
Commission website for any information about the kit you’re considering.
ZIPLINE REQUIREMENTS
For a good ride, make the zipline at least 75' long, with a minimum slope of 5'. Trees must be heathy and at least 10" in
diameter. If you’re starting at a treehouse or platform, reinforce the framing with additional fasteners or metal brackets.
Test the run before drilling the holes. Wrap the cable around the trees, secure it with cable clamps and hold it in position
at the level where the eyebolt will be attached with wood clamps or large nails. Then tie a heavy sandbag to the handle so
it’s hanging where a person would be and send it down the cable. If it seems too slow or fast, move one end of the cable
to compensate. Watch for obstacles in the path of the cable, and cut branches back 4' on all sides.
Lighter-duty zipline kits made for use by children are sold in relatively inexpensive kits (always do your homework to
investigate customer ratings and reviews of any zipline product). The maximum distances of these kits is usually about
90'. Shorter is usually safer. A high-adventure zipline requires a very unusual backyard with tall trees and ample space.
But setting up a slightly tamer run from your deck to the old maple tree is a great way for people of all ages to learn and
develop skills.
Proof 1
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How to Install a Zipline
1 2
Drill a hole through the center of each tree (high end and low Insert an eyebolt (stainless-steel or triple-dipped galvanized)
end) for an eyebolt. The holes should be the same diameter through the guide hole and then secure it to the tree with a
as the eyebolt shaft. You’ll need to use an extra-long spade bit wide washer, such as a fender washer, and a nut. The end of
or a bit extender to clear a tree trunk, which should be at least the bolt should protrude 1 to 2" past the tree. Inspect the nut
10" in diameter. periodically to make sure it is still tight.
3 4
Attach a turnbuckle to the eyebolt on the low end of the cable Loop the cable (use only braided, stainless-steel cable rated
run. The turnbuckle should be sized and rated for the for zipline usage) through the eyebolt on the high side, place
cable size, the total span, and the maximum weight load of a metal thimble at the loop, and then secure it in place with
Proof 1
your zipline. three cable clamps.
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5 6
Thread the cable through an old tire that will be positioned at Secure the cable to the turnbuckle at the low end. The
the end of the run (on the downhill side) to work as a brake turnbuckle should be loosened almost all the way so you
that prevents zipline riders from crashing into the tree or can tighten the cable. Pull the cable through the turnbuckle
structure where the cable is secured. First, drill centered as tightly as you can, and then lock it in place with three
guide holes for the cable in opposite sides of an old, nonsteel- cable clamps. Test the tension in the cable, and tighten the
belted rubber tire. Also drill several ½" holes at the bottom of turnbuckle, as needed.
the tire tread to allow for water drainage.
LAUNCHING PADS
7
If your yard doesn’t have much natural slope you’ll have
to create the slope to make your zipline work. You can
do this by attaching the high end of the line to a tree or
structure with a higher access point, such as a second-
level deck. Or, you can build a launching platform on
the tree for the high spot. A launching pad with ladder
access is a fairly easy project to build and will create
Proof 1 2CT
Clip the handle or trolley onto the cable according to the a safe entry point for zipline users. See page 121 for
manufacturer’s instructions and test out the zipline, taking information on treehouse-type platforms.
care to follow all safety precautions.
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Classic Tree Swing
A rope hung from a large tree may be a simple
swinging apparatus, but kids and even adults will
find it completely irresistible. The rope may be hung
with just a knot at the bottom for gripping or it may
support a swing seat or an old tire.
All that is really required to build a rope swing is
a healthy tree, a length of heavy rope, and the ability
to tie a good knot. Use ½-inch diameter or larger
rope (larger is better) made of nylon or hemp. Tie a
few knots in the bottom of the rope as grips and to
prevent unraveling, even if you plan to add a swing
seat. Watch the rope for signs of wear, and test it
often. Make sure smaller children understand how to
use it safely, and that they should never make loops
in it.
When siting your swing, look for a tree that
has a sturdy limb at least 8 inches in diameter and
nearly horizontal. The limb should be at least 10 feet
above ground, and the swinging area should be free
and clear of all obstacles, including the tree trunk,
which should be at least 6 feet from the point where
the swing is tied ( further if the rope is longer than
10 feet). Landing and access areas should be clear of
hazards and have shock-absorbing mulch or ground
cover. Do not allow small children to use the swing
without adult supervision.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
½"-dia. rope or larger (nylon or hemp)
5
⁄8"-dia. hot-dipped galvanized eyebolt with washer
and nut
Metal thimble (to match rope)
Old tire (optional) or swing
Drill and spade bit for eye bolt
Stepladder
Eye and ear protection A tree swing can be installed practically anywhere that you
Work gloves have a tree, clear swinging area, and safe spots for landing
Proof 1
and access.
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How to Hang a Tree Swing
1
OPTION: Tie the rope to the tree. If the branch is too high
to easily reach with a ladder, throw a small cord with a
weight over the branch, then use it to pull the rope up. Tie
a loop in the end of the rope and pull it tight. Test the knot
to make sure it is secure and does not slip.
NOTE: Wrapping a rope or chain around a tree limb is
Attach a 5⁄8" galvanized eyebolt through the center of a branch okay as a short-term swinging solution, but it can actually
that’s at least 8" in diameter. Insert a thimble through the eye cause more long-term harm to the tree than an eyebolt.
bolt; then tie the rope onto the eyebolt, threading it through Prolonged friction from a tight rope can eventually start
the thimble to make the top curve. This is a tree-friendly to strangle the limb by cutting through the bark.
approach to hanging a swing
ROPE SELECTION
2
Use ½"-dia. or larger nylon or hemp rope for a rope
swing. Hemp is a traditional rope for swings, but will
eventually start to rot if left out year-round. Nylon is Hang the tire or swing seat. Swings are an excellent use for an
almost indestructible, but will stretch slightly and is more old tire, but avoid steel-belted types with exposed steel strands
expensive than hemp. Nylon is available in fun colors. and clean the tire thoroughly before using it. Drill large holes
A 12" galvanized steel eyebolt with thimble inserted into in the tread of the tire to drain water away (inset). Do not use
the eye offers a safe, tree-friendly hanging method. hard objects or objects with sharp corners (such as wood
Proof 1
planks) as tree swings—they can cause damage or injury.
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Jungle Gym
T he first known jungle gym—a framework of bamboo
cubes—was developed by a mathematician as a way
of teaching his children about three-dimensional space. It
never caught on as a teaching aid but eventually became
quite popular on playgrounds and has since become the
progenitor for a wide variety of climbing structures.
Although earlier mass-marketed playground
versions of jungle gyms were made from welded
metal, most jungle gyms for home use today are
constructed of wood or a combination of wood and
metal. Because playground falls are not uncommon,
it’s recommended that you line the area beneath the
jungle gym with a thick layer of mulch (see page 15).
Sand any rough, splintery areas and round over all
sharp edges before you assemble the jungle gym.
This jungle gym is made from scratch using
pressure-treated lumber held together with lag bolts.
Because the chemicals used to treat lumber these
days are very corrosive, be sure to use triple-dipped
zinc plated or stainless-steel bolts, washers, and nuts.
The climbing rungs (monkey bars) on this jungle
gym are made from 1 inch inside-diameter galvanized
water pipe. If you’d rather not cut all that pipe, you can
buy prefabricated monkey bars at just about any larger
building center and online. The assembly process we
used is fairly straightforward: you simply create the
six wood frames that make up the structure and then
bolt them together, with the monkey-bar “ladder”
connecting the two large side frames. Small children
should use the jungle gym only under adult supervision.
MATERIALS
Lumber (3) 3⁄8"-dia. × 33"
2½" deck screws threaded rod
Carriage bolts with with nuts/washers
washers and nuts Sandpaper
(3⁄8 × 2½", 3⁄8 × 4½",
3
⁄8 × 5") Eye and ear protection
1¼" o.d. galvanized pipe Work gloves
Proof 1
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Climbing never gets old. This jungle gym is simple to build
but challenging enough to keep the kids busy for hours.
Proof 1
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Author ISBN # Author's review
Backyard Recreation 0781760607 (if needed)
Document name OK Correx
Junglegym-F09.eps
Artist Date Initials Date
12/21/2009
Accurate Art, Inc.
Check if revision CE's review
JUNGLE GYM BxW 2/C 4/C OK Correx
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
Initials Date
30w x 24d
120"
F
F
O
B
B B B C
K N
E
J J J
84"
C J C
D M
K G
G
A A
L
G
L
K
108"
H
CUTTING LIST
KEY NO. DIMENSION KEY NO. DIMENSION
A 2 3½ × 3½ × 120" J 4 1½ × 3½ × 61½"
B 6 1½ × 3½ × 84" K 6 1½ × 3½ × 30"
C 4 1½ × 3½ × 86" L 4 1½ × 3½ × 37½"
D 2 1½ × 3½ × 111¾" M 2 1½ × 3½ × 32¼"
E 2 1½ × 3½ × 100½" N 2 1½ × 3½ × 26¼"
F 4 1½ × 3½ × 96" O 7 1¼ o.d. × 29" galv. water pipe
G 4 1½ × 3½ × 36" *All lumber is exterior-rated.
H 2 3½ × 3½ × 33"
Proof 1
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How to Build a Jungle Gym
Assemble the frames. The jungle gym structure is composed of six frames that are
built individually and then squared and bolted together. Start with the large side
1 frames, laying out the rails and uprights so the distances between rails are equal.
Tack each joint with a single 2½" deck screw.
2
Large side frame
Start by cutting all of the rails and uprights
for the six frames to length. The ends of
the outer uprights and the intermediate
rails are cut at a 12° angle. After cutting
and before assembly, thoroughly sand
all of the parts to eliminate any slivers,
rounding over any sharp edges as
you sand.
3 4
Lay out the carriage bolt locations once the frames are Drill counterbores for the washers at the drilling points marked
tacked together and squared. Use two bolts per joint. We on the nut side of each joint. Mark a ½" drilling depth for
used several lengths of 3⁄8"-dia., triple-dipped carriage bolts each counterbore hole. Once the counterbores are all drilled,
with the heads oriented on the outside faces of the frames. drill 3⁄8"-dia. guide holes through the counterbore centers
Joints where two 2 × 4s are assembled face-to-face require using a spade bit. Drill all the way through the workpieces.
Proof 1 2CT
2½" bolts; joints where a 2 × 4 is laid flat against the edge of
another 2 × 4 require 4½" bolts. Mark the holes on the nut
side of the joint. (continued)
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5 6
Insert a carriage bolt through each guide hole, thread on Build and attach the wing assemblies to the side frames
a washer, and attach a nut. Attach all nuts in each frame, as shown in the diagram. These assemblies are good for
tightening by hand only. Once the entire structure is assembled climbing, but they provide an even more important function in
and squared, then you should go in and tighten all nuts fully. stabilizing the jungle gym structure.
Join the frames with carriage bolts driven through counterbored
guide holes. The uprights in the large side frames are attached
to 4 × 4 skids—use 3⁄8 × 5" triple-dipped bolts.
7 8
Drill set holes for the monkey bars. Mark drilling centers for Cut the monkey bars to length from 1¼" outside diameter
3C
the monkey bars on the inside faces of two 2 × 4 upper rails. galvanized water pipe. The best and safest tool for this is a
The holes should be spaced 12" apart on-center. Mount a 1¼" metal cutoff saw, but you can also use a metal-cutting blade
Forstner bit in your drill press and set the drilling depth to 1". mounted in a reciprocating saw. Be sure to secure the pipe
Proof 1 2C
Drill the holes for the monkey bars. If you do not have access before cutting.
to a drill press, you can use a hand drill with a 1¼" spade bit.
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9 10
Install the monkey bars in the upper-rail guide holes and Cut and install 2 × 4 filler strips to fit between the top ends
clamp the rails together with bar or pipe clamps. Fit the of the uprights, sandwiched between the horizontal frame
assembly between the side frames and clamp the parts tops. The main purpose of these fillers is to eliminate pinching
together. Attach the rails to the outer rails with carriage bolts hazards where small hands can fit.
installed through both rails and the uprights between the rails.
Use 3⁄8 × 4½" carriage bolts.
11 12
Install 33"-long pieces of threaded rod at each end and in the Add the ladder steps between the side frames to create access
middle to draw the “ladder” sides together. Drill guide holes to the monkey bars. Once all the parts are installed and the
for the all-thread so they fit inside rungs and fasten with nuts structure fits together squarely, use a cordless impact driver
and washers set into counterbores. Tighten the nuts evenly so or a ratchet wrench to fully tighten all of the nuts onto the
Proof 1
the “ladder” doesn’t rack. Do not overtighten. carriage bolts.
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Obstacle Course
O bstacle courses are the perfect way for kids of all
ages to hone their physical abilities, from balance
and agility to fine-motor movements. Not only will a
simple obstacle course provide good challenges for
your kids and their friends, but it will also provide
hours of fun and will improve the abilities kids need
You can find an obstacle course for just about any creature
for other sports. The entire obstacle course should in any situation—from dogs to football players, soldiers to
be positioned on a base of soft wood mulch or horses. A good obstacle course teaches as much as it tests.
shredded rubber. When it’s built in a backyard for use by kids, it has to be fun.
Play tunnel. Purchase an expandable play tunnel
from a toy store or online to add a fun element to the
obstacle course.
Proof 1
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Tire run. This classic football test of footwork involves
tires tied together. This lighter-duty version substitutes
inflatable pool rings lashed together with bungee cords.
You can anchor them with stakes as well.
Hoop jump. Use a 10' length
of ¾" PVC tubing and two 18"
pieces of ½" CPVC tubing.
Drive the CPVC stakes into
the ground 40" apart, with 6"
sticking up aboveground. Slip
the open ends of the ¾" pipe
over the stakes so that the
Balance beam. Make a central beam out of an 8' × 4" × 6" pipe curves into an inverted U.
timber. Attach a 16 × 2 × 4" crosspiece to each end of the Hang a standard hula hoop,
beam with 16d nails or deck screws. Set the beam on top centered, from the arch with
of a stack of four 16 × 4 × 4" blocks to support the beam. bungee cords.
Nail all the pieces together to keep them from shifting.
Proof 1 2C
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Swinging Rope Challenge
T his wonderful backyard
addition can be added to
the obstacle course on page 72
as yet another challenge for big
and small kids alike, or it can
be used as just a fun standalone
feature in a backyard. In either
case, its footprint is small, so
it won’t take up a lot of space,
and the construction is all so
straightforward that you won’t
spend more than a long Saturday
building it. You can fill the
pool with plain water, mud, or
something really off the hook, like
Jell-O. The idea is the same—grab
the rope and swashbuckle across
the pit to the other side. This is
also an obvious candidate for
summertime play as part of a
water course that includes other
super-fun features like a sprinkler
jump and water slide.
Grab the knotted rope and swing across
the pool of water for some jungle-
inspired fun.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
(4) 2 × 8" × 8' PT Joist hanger nails Construction adhesive
(7) 2 × 4" × 8' PT Rope Clamps
(2) 2 × 4" × 10' PT Sand mats or mulch Pencil
(2) 8' deck boards 36 to 48"-dia. play wading pool Tape measure
(8) 3⁄8 × 3" lag bolts with washers Spool Hammer
and nuts Power saw Eye and ear protection
Deck screws (3") Drill/driver Work gloves
(2) Post cap hardware
Proof 1
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Artist Date Initials Da
12/17/2009
Accurate Art, Inc.
Check if revision CE's review
BxW 2/C 4/C OK
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
Initials Da
20w x 24d
SWINGING ROPE CHALLENGE
I K
H
G
H F 96"
B
C
E D
J B
A
CUTTING LIST
KEY PART NO. DIMENSION MATERIAL
A Base end 1 1½ × 7½ × 48" 2×8
B Base side 2 1½ × 7½ × 72" 2×8
C Spacer 1 1½ × 3½ × 45" 2×4
D Deck rim 1 1½ × 7½ × 45" 2×8
E Deck joist 4 1½ × 7½ × 21" 2×8
F Outer post 2 1½ × 3½ × 96" 2×4
G Inner post 2 1½ × 3½ × 88½" 2×4
H Diagonal 2 1½ × 3½ × 113" 2×4
I Beam 2 1½ × 3½ × 54" 2×4
J Deck board 4 5/4 × 5½ × 48" Decking
K Beam spacer 1 ¾ × 3½ × 54" Plywood
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How to Build a Swinging Rope Challenge
7½"
1 2 12"
Cut the base sides to length and cut a 45° angle on one end of each side. Join Install the uprights. Cut the inner and
the opposite ends of the sides by screwing them onto the ends of the end board outer posts to length and attach them
with 3" deck screws. Screw the 2 × 4 spacer in place at the front, 5" in from the together with glue and 3" deck screws.
angled ends. Screw the deck joists to the inside of the end, spaced evenly across Set each assembly onto the top edge of
the end’s span. Screw the inside ledger to the inside ends of the joists. the base, 12" in from the front (profiled)
end. Attach each post with a pair of
counterbored 3⁄8 × 3" lag bolts.
3 4
Mark and cut the diagonal braces. Place a 10' 2 × 4 in Install the beam. Attach adjustable post caps to the tops of the
position so one end fits into the back inside end of the base inner and outer posts and then fasten them to the uprights
and the other crosses the top of each upright post. Mark with joist hanger nails. Cut a beam to length from doubled
cutting lines on the 2 × 4s, cut to length, and angle according 2 × 4s and set it onto the post cap saddles. Adjust the movable
Proof 1 2C
to your cutting lines. Fasten the braces with lag bolts. half of the cap and secure all parts. Insert a ½" plywood spacer
between 2 × 4 beam halves and secure into a fixed post cap.
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5 6
Cut deck boards to length and screw them down onto the Tie the swinging rope securely to the top beam and tie knots into
deck joists. Make cutouts to fit around the diagonal braces if the rope for grabbing points. Attach an empty thread spool or
needed. There should be a gap of ¼" between deck boards. another object to the outside face of a diagonal brace to make
a resting point for the rope so it can be reached from the deck.
WATER SLIDES
If your kids would rather be found
in the water than swinging over it,
you can make your own water-park
style water slide with only a roll of
plastic sheeting and a hose. Buy
a roll of 6-mil, 10'-wide (or larger)
polyethylene sheeting. Roll it out
and unfold it, preferably on a slope
if you have one. Consider weighing
down the edges with pieces of wood
or other heavy objects so the plastic
doesn’t blow away (make sure wood
is sanded smooth and finished to
avoid splinters). Then, turn the hose
on and spray water over the length of
the plastic. The water will be cold at
first, but it warms up quickly on the
plastic. Add baby shampoo liberally,
both on the plastic and on yourself;
then take a running start and dive
onto the plastic. Dish soap will also
Proof 1 2C
work, but baby shampoo doesn’t
sting if you get it in your eyes.
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Home Sports
T here’s no need to foot the bill for an expensive
gym membership when you can turn your home’s
outside spaces into the perfect sporting arena.
With just a little bit of effort, you can accommodate
the entire family’s sporting preferences, from the
hoop dreams of your aspiring NBA star to your
daughter’s goal of being the next big skater phenom.
It’s just a matter of using the available space to its
best advantage.
The beauty of adding a sports feature around
the house is that it makes valuable exercise easy,
convenient, and even fun. It’s a way to add value
and usability to spaces outside the house that might
otherwise be nothing more than static landscape.
Most of the projects in this section can be enjoyed by
all members of the house, and can be a great way to
bring the family together in wholesome activities.
The projects range from exceedingly easy to
somewhat more challenging construction. But all
can be built with basic tools and run-of-the-mill DIY
skills. None will break the bank, but you should take
care to always keep safety front of mind whenever
you’re building structures to accommodate sporting
activities. The last thing you want is for injury to
interrupt the fun.
In this chapter:
• Skateboard Ramp
• Basketball Hoop
• Bocce Court
• Horseshoe Pit
• Tetherball
• Pickleball
• Putting Green
• Ladder Golf
• Beanbag Toss
Proof 1
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
¾" exterior plywood
3
⁄8" exterior plywood (sanded)
2 × 4 lumber (pressure-treated)
Skateboard Ramp 2 × 4 lumber (no. 2 or better)
Deck screws (15⁄8", 2", 2½")
Lag screws (3⁄8 × 3") with washers
B ecause good places to practice can be few and far
between, every skateboarder dreams of having a
skateboard ramp of his or her own. Sidewalks may get
Carriage bolts (3⁄8 × 4") with washers and nuts
#6 panhead screws (1½")
dull, city streets are dangerous, and most public areas
Schedule 40 PVC tubing (2" dia.)
are rarely skateboarder-friendly; but your own ramp
in your own yard is always ready and available. Jigsaw with wood-cutting blade
This skateboard ramp (knowledgeable boarders Power miter saw with stop blocks
would describe it as a mini half-pipe ramp) is a fun,
Eye and ear protection
challenging, and safe place to learn new skills—and it
offers a softer landing than a hard concrete sidewalk. Work gloves
It’s also fun to build and can be constructed in two to
four days using only standard hand and power tools.
This 4-foot-high ramp measures 24 feet long by Skateboarding is a dangerous activity on ramps
8 feet wide. It is built in three sections: a pair of curved or anywhere else. Always wear a helmet, kneepads,
ramps on each end and a flat stretch in between. To and other protective clothing and equipment
keep the plywood that forms the curves from wicking when skateboarding.
up moisture and rotting, build it on top of concrete
footings or pads. If you build it on a flat driveway NOTE: This ramp is based on a free plan designed
or patio, set the corners and center transitions on by Rick Dahlen and available for downloading. See
concrete pads to keep the wood dry. Resources, page 141.
This skateboard ramp
is built in three sections
from plywood and 2 × 4s.
The curved surface is created
with a double layer of bendable
Proof 1
3
⁄8" exterior-grade plywood.
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Proof 1
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How to Build a Skateboard Ramp
1 2
Sleepers
Mark the curves for the ramp sides using a modified trammel. Cut out the curves using a jigsaw equipped with a fast
First, lay two sheets of ¾"-thick exterior plywood next to each wood-cutting blade. Watch the lines carefully as you cut to
other on a flat surface. The long edges should be touching, avoid drifting away from the curve, and make sure both the
with the ends flush. Cut a thin strip of wood to 8' long and workpiece and the waste are well supported. Setting the
tack one end 3½" up from one of the back ends. Measure plywood on 2 × 4 sleepers creates access space for
7'6" from the point where the trammel strip is tacked and drill the jigsaw blade.
a 3⁄8"-dia. guide hole for a pencil. Insert a pencil into the guide
hole and trace a curve on the plywood. Mark four pieces of
plywood this way.
3
4
Cut notches for the coping pipe at the Build the ramp side assemblies. Cut the 2 × 4 spreaders to length using a power
top of each curved plywood upright, miter saw equipped with a stop block for uniform lengths. Install the spreaders
using a jigsaw. The notches allow between pairs of ramp sides at intervals of approximately 8". Drive several 2½" deck
the PVC coping pipe that is used to screws through the plywood and into the ends of the spreaders at each joint.
Proof 1
overhang the ramp slightly.
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Construct the 2 × 4 platform for the flat middle area in two
sections and then fasten the sections together with deck
5 screws. Alternate driving directions between frames to create
a stronger joint.
Bevel the top spreaders. Two spreaders are butted together at
the top of each ramp to create a cradle for the coping tube
(here, a piece of 2" PVC pipe). Butt a spreader up against the
face of the top spreader in each ramp and mark a bevel cut
on the edge so you can trim the spreader to be flush with the
plywood base. Rip the bevel cut on a table saw or clamp the
workpiece securely to a support board and cut the bevel with
a straightedge guide and a circular saw. Set the saw blade 6
angle to match the bevel angle.
Join all the curved and flat sections with deck screws, aligning the edges carefully.
By this time, you should have moved the parts to the installation area and
confirmed that the area is flat. Ideally, the ramp should be installed on a concrete 8
slab or concrete footings that minimize ground contact.
7
Coping tube
shown cutaway for clarity
Add the coping tube to the tops of the
ramps—we used 2"-dia. Schedule
40 PVC tubing, but you can use rigid
conduit or water pipe if you prefer
metal. Drill eight evenly spaced 3⁄16"
holes through the coping, then enlarge
the entry holes to ½". Fasten the coping
to the beveled top spreaders with 1½",
Proof 1
#6 panhead screws. (continued)
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9
Install a layer of ¾" plywood to the flat areas of the ramp using 2" deck screws driven every 8" into the platform frames. Choose
exterior-rated plywood with a sanded face facing upward to create a smooth skateboarding surface. Make sure joints between
panels fall over 2 × 4 supports and make sure all screw heads are recessed slightly below the wood surface.
10
Attach a double layer of 3⁄8" plywood to the curved parts of the ramp. Standard ¾" plywood is too thick to bend along the ramp
curves, so we used two layers of 3⁄8" plywood, which is limber enough to manage the gradual curves of the ramp. Make sure the
seams for both layers are offset by at least 18" and that all joints fall over 2 × 4s. Leave 1⁄8" gaps between sheets for expansion
and drainage. Attach with 15⁄8" deck screws driven every 8".
Proof 1
TIP: To help the plywood bend more easily, dampen the reverse side.
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Bolt 2 × 4" × 4' posts to the back of each platform using
3
⁄8 × 4" carriage bolts. Attach an additional 2 × 4" × 4' corner
post at each side to create L-shaped corners. Draw the corner
post boards together with 2½" deck screws, closing the joint.
12
11
At the joint between the coping and the deck, spread a bead of
caulk along the top edge of the first layer to keep water from
wicking in between the sheets and rotting the wood. Caulk the
gap between the coping tube and the first course before you
butt the second course of plywood up to the coping. Fasten
the plywood with 2" deck screws.
TIP: For a better joint, bevel-rip the top edge of the second
course slightly.
13 14
Install horizontal rails between the posts and then top-off Sand the plywood to eliminate roughness and splinters, and
each end rail system with a 2 × 4 cap plate attached with set any protruding screws beneath the surface of the plywood.
2½" deck screws. Vacuum the dust off, then coat all wood with paint or wood
Proof 1 2C
preservative. For best protection and ease of cleaning, coat the
entire ramp with two or three thin coats of gloss exterior paint.
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Basketball Hoop
B asketball is one of the few sports where you can
have as much fun competing against yourself as
you can competing with others. If you have kids (or
even if you don’t), a basketball hoop in the driveway or Whether you’re shooting hoops alone
backyard is an excellent investment. and working on your skills, or playing
A huge range of basketball hoops are available. organized games with a group of
Which one to select depends on your needs, your friends, basketball is an absorbing,
exciting game that never gets boring
budget, and your yard or driveway. A hoop can be as and is great exercise.
simple as a metal rim screwed to the side of a garage
or as elaborate as a heavy-duty, professional-quality
system supported by a 48-inch-deep concrete base Author ISBN # Au
(
Backyard Recreation 0781760607
with 6-foot-wide tempered glass backboard
Author
(not
Backyard Recreation
ISBN #
0781760607
Author's review
(if needed) Document name
to mention a professionally installed court
Document with
name a freestanding post setOKin concrete, Correx with backboard
Backboard-F13.eps
The Court-F12.eps Artist
permanent markings). Within this range, Artist
the main Date
and rim attached. Initials
You can
Date buy any of these types withDate 12/10/2009
Accurate Art, Inc.
12/14/2009
choices are a portable goal (a pole andAccurate
backboard Art, Inc. the basket and backboard fixed in place, or you can Check if revision
Check if revision
C
CE's review
supported by a wide, heavy base on wheels);
BxW
a wall-
2/C 4/C
choose a goal that hasOKan Correx adjustable Bheight
xW
feature—a
2/C 4/C
mounted or roof-mounted backboardFinal and goal; or
Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
good option if you have small children. Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
Initials Date 16w x 18d
28w x 20d
Basketball Goals
Baseline 12' 4'
Backboard
Goal
15'
Free throw line
3-point line
6' radius
Top of key
Court Layout. For a regulation half-court game (or full-court, if A backboard is easy and fun to make from ¾" exterior grade
you have the space), tape off and paint your own home court plywood. Cut the shape with a jigsaw and seal all cut edges with
or buy a stencil kit from a sports supply store. wood preservative before priming and painting white. Use paint
Proof 1
or tape to create the black outlines and the orange target box.
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Freestanding Goals Wall-mounted Goals
A traditional basketball post is set in concrete. This works Wall-mounted goals can be attached directly to the gable
well when you have a dedicated space for the court, as area of a garage or secured by angled support arms that are
shown here. attached to a low-slope roof.
Direct-mounted Goals
48"-deep footing
Heavier backboards and posts require a more substantial A glass goal is bolted directly to support arms that are
concrete base. The welded base plate is bolted to large attached to the post. In many cases the goal can be lowered
J-bolts buried in the reinforced concrete base. Adjust the nuts from the standard 10' height if you have smaller children.
underneath the plate to make the pole perfectly plumb. The
concrete base is 48" deep (minimum) and 16" or more in
diameter, with metal rebar inserted to help anchor the J-bolts.
Proof 1
This type of post set-up is typically expensive.
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Bocce Court
L ike many sports and games, bocce can be played
casually on any reasonably level lawn with a
minimum of rules, depending on how flexible you and
your playing companions are. But if you are serious
about playing bocce as a pastime and you have the space
in your yard, consider building a regulation bocce court
with a smooth, flat surface and a permanent border.
Developed in Italy as a variation of an ancient
Roman game and then spread around the world, bocce
is played at clubs, public courts, and backyards all over
the world. Although not an Olympic sport, various
bocce federations and clubs organize tournaments for
enthusiastic amateurs, and competition can be fierce.
Official bocce courts for tournament play are
13 feet wide by 91 feet long, but recreational courts
can be anywhere from 8 to 14 feet wide and 60 to
91 feet long. If you’re trying to squeeze a court into
Bocce is a popular backyard game that has been around for
your backyard, you can adjust those measurements centuries. It can be played free-form in any backyard, but
as needed. Often the game is played without a for the truly authentic bocce experience you’ll want a hard-
court at all, or with an irregular-shaped court that surface bocce court.
accommodates the dimensions and shape of your
TOOLS & MATERIALS yard. Standard courts are made from gravel topped
with a fine clay or shell mixture and surrounded by
4 × 6 pressure-treated Circular saw
a low wood wall, with the depth and composition
timbers Concrete mix of gravel and the construction of the wood wall
2 × 10 pressure-treated Drill and spade bits determined by local climate and soil conditions.
timbers Borders should be made of wood, and can
Laser level
1½ to 2"-dia. be constructed of 4 × 4s, 4 × 6s, 2 × 10s, or other
Stakes combinations of sizes. No matter which size you use,
drainage rock
Mason’s string the border should be protected from frost heave and
Compactable gravel moisture, either by anchoring it to 4 × 6 posts set in
Flat-nose spade
Tennis court clay, concrete below the frost line or by building it on a
crushed oyster shells Hammer
thick bed of gravel.
or similar blend Shovel Large, pressure-treated timbers like 6 × 6s and
Lag bolts, washers, Trowel 6 × 8s make an excellent border, but these can be
and nuts difficult to work with unless you’re using a bobcat. You
Power tamper
can substitute built-up layers of 2× lumber and 4 × 4s
2½" deck screws Construction adhesive instead, overlapping seams and nailing and bolting
Posthole digger Eye and ear protection them together. Bolt or screw them together from the
Gravel compactor Work gloves outside, so that there are no visible fasteners on the
Proof 1
inside of the court.
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Frame the court with wood planks or
timbers supported by frost footings or a
6" min. thick gravel pad. Build the court surface
from coarse gravel topped with finer,
crushed limestone or similar stone,
1-2" tennis clay or oyster shells topped with crushed oyster shells,
tennis clay or other similar material.
4-6" fine gravel
Drain tile 4-6" coarse gravel
Concrete
HOW TO PLAY BOCCE
Bocce is played between two players or two teams of up to four players each. Eight large balls and one small ball called
a “pallino” are used. The pallino is thrown out first. The object of the game is to get one of the large balls as close as
possible to the pallino. Knocking the other team’s balls away from the pallino is acceptable. For a much more in-depth
version of the rules, along with playing strategies and penalties, visit www.boccestandardsassociation.org and the United
States Bocce Federation at www.bocce.com.
Composite
Clay
Pallino
Bocce is played with a set of eight bocce balls and one target ball. Introductory sets made from composites can be
purchased for less than $50. A traditional set of bocce balls made from clay and imported from Italy costs considerably
more, but is a near-necessity if you develop a serious attachment to the game.
Proof 1
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How to Build a Bocce Court
1 2
Find or create a level area in your yard and stake out the Excavate the topsoil in the court area. A regulation bocce court
corners of the bocce court. See previous page for discussion should be dug out a minimum of 10" so the proper subbase
of court dimensions. Strip back the sod from the court area material can be put in. If your plans are more casual, you can
with a sod cutter or a flat-nose spade. cheat this step a little as long as the ground in your yard is not
soft enough that the court will sink.
3 4
Dig postholes. To support the walls (and prevent them from Set the 4 × 6 timbers into the post holes, with a 4 to 6" layer
moving) set pressure-treated 4 × 6 landscape timbers every of drainage gravel at the bottom. Fill around the timbers with
4' around the perimeter of the court. Ideally, the timbers concrete, sloping the tops to shed water. After all of the posts
(installed vertically) should extend past the frostline for your are set and the concrete is dry, use a laser level to mark level
Proof 1 2C
area. The tops will be trimmed to about 6" above grade after cutting lines on all the post tops and then trim them to height
they’re set. with a circular saw or reciprocating saw.
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5
OPTION: After cutting the posts to height, use a circular Spread a 4 to 6" layer of drainage rock, such as 1½" river
saw set at 45°, a planer, or a trim router with a chamfer rock, onto the court. Cover this with a 4 to 6" layer of
bit to cut chamfer profiles into the tops of the posts. Cut compactable gravel and tamp the gravel thoroughly with
the outer edge and side edges of each post. Do not cut a a power tamper. Add more gravel and tamp until you
chamfer on the side that will butt against the court walls. have attained a very firm base that is at or slightly below
ground level.
6 7
Build the walls. Lay pressure-treated 2 × 10 lumber around the Add a 1"- to 2"-thick top layer of court clay, crushed oyster
perimeter inside the posts. This first layer of the wall should be shells, or other suitable medium. Here, crushed stone is
laid on edge, with the end seams falling at post locations. Fasten being raked in preparation for compaction. Some top-dress
the boards to the posts with counterbored lag bolts, washers, layers do not require tamping, as the material will settle
and nuts. Then, attach a second layer of 2 × 10 inside the first naturally. If the surface remains loose, however, you can use a
Proof 1 2C
layer. Use heavy duty construction adhesive and 2½" deck power compactor to harden the surface so the bocce balls will
screws driven through the outer layer and into the inner layer. roll more easily.
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RULES FOR HORSESHOES
Stand by the stake at one end of the court and throw
the horseshoe to the other end. If your horseshoe
rings the stake (a ringer), you get three points. If no one
gets a ringer, you get one point if your horseshoe is right
next to the stake. Each player gets two horseshoes, and
Horseshoe Pit the first player to get 21 points wins.
H orseshoes and a similar game called quoits—
which is played with rings instead of horseshoes—
both evolved out of games played by soldiers in
made of 1-inch-diameter steel 36 inches in length,
and angle toward one another at 12 degrees. From
14 to 15 inches of post should protrude above ground.
ancient Greece and Rome. In the United States, Horseshoes must not weigh more than 3 pounds. The
horseshoes was popular in both the Revolutionary ideal surface for the “pit” that cushions the horseshoes
and Civil War. Returning soldiers brought it back with when they land and stops them from kicking up clods
them to their towns and farms, where it quickly took of dirt is moist blue clay, but sand or even loose dirt
root, largely because most households already had all are acceptable.
the equipment needed to play it—a few unattached Horseshoes are pitched from behind a foul line
horseshoes and two metal stakes. 37 feet away from the opposite stake, but the official
According to the National Horseshoe Pitchers rules allow women, children under 18, and men over
Association, regulation court size is 48 feet from end 70 to pitch their horseshoes from 27 feet away from
to end, with 40 feet in between goal stakes. Stakes are the opposite stake, if they so desire.
Horseshoes has been played for thousands of years, and
is an easy game to set up in the back or side yard. A
permanent horseshoe pit is a fun, easy project to build.
Proof 1
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Creating a Horseshoe Pit
Pitching platform
36"
48" 40'
36" 72"
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
BxW
Artist
16w x 44d
Accurate Art, Inc.
Horseshoe Court-F15.eps
Foul line
A typical horseshoes court. The most important dimension to know for horseshoes
2/C
is that you need 40' between the stakes. Other lines can be added with lime
or other sport field marker as you become more serious about the game.
4/C
Date
Check if revision
12/10/2009
CE's review
Initials
Initials
OK
Date
Date
Correx
A regulation horseshoe pit is a 3' square with 4" of loose sand on top. The stake is a 1" steel rod or pipe sticking 14" out of the
ground and angled away from the backstop at 12°. The backstops (optional but a very good idea) are made from pressure-
treated 2 × 8 lumber attached to 2 × 4 stakes driven into the ground. They are 4' from the stake. Inset: An integral backstop
Proof 1
and side arms form a cozy pit that keeps horseshoes under control, even if it doesn’t quite meet the official regulations.
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set of rules has evolved to make the game fair and
competitive, because otherwise a server who knows
how to hit the ball will win every time.
Kits with metal poles and balls are available, but
you can save money and get a sturdier pole if you
make your own from galvanized pipe and then buy
the ball with attached rope separately. The pole must
Tetherball be long enough to extend 10 feet above ground level,
and the ball should hang 2 feet above the ground. To
Author ISBN # Author's review
(if needed)
make a strong, removable pole, set aBackyard
2-foot length0781760607
Recreation
of
Document name OK C
pipe with a threaded coupling in a concrete base; then
Tether Ball-F16.eps
Initials Date
A
Artist Date
02/04/2010
favorite at summer camps, tetherball is a simple thread the 10-foot pole with an eyebolt at Art,
Accurate theInc.top into Check if revision CE's review
but vigorous game for two people that involves the coupling. BxW 2/C 4/C OK C
hitting a ball on a rope back and forth around a pole Tetherballs with rope attached are available at
24w x 23d
Final Size (Width x Depth in Picas)
Initials Date
until one player manages to wrap the ball completely sporting goods stores and on the Internet. Unless
around the pole. There is no governing body and you’re an experienced player, buy the soft version of
little in the way of formal competition, but a basic the ball—it’s easier on kids’ hands.
Cap
TETHERBALL RULES 4"
Number of players: Two
The serve: Players stand on opposite sides of a
20'-diameter circle. The server begins play by hitting
the ball around the pole in one direction. The opponent
hits the ball around the pole in the other direction. The
first player to wrap the rope completely around the pole
is the winner.
Fouls: If a player commits a foul (see below), play stops
and the player making the foul must give up his turn.
1. Hitting the ball twice at the serve before the
opponent hits the ball
2. Hitting the tetherball with a part of the body other
than one’s hand or forearm Coupling
3. Holding, catching, or throwing the ball while play
is ongoing
4. Stepping over the centerline
5. Reaching around the pole to hit the ball
2'
6. Hitting the ball twice on your side of the court
7. Touching the pole
8. Hitting or touching the rope Concrete 16" × 24"
Tetherball is a fast-
moving game with Dig a 2' × 16" hole, set the assembled pole in the center, and
plenty of hitting and plumb it in both directions with wood braces. Fill the hole with
jumping that fits easily concrete to just below the top of the coupling, then slope the
into a small backyard. concrete to the outside so water doesn’t pool around the pipe.
Use plenty of pipe thread compound when you assemble the
sections of pipe to protect the threads from rust and make it
easier to remove the pole if it becomes necessary. Tighten the
pipe with a pipe wrench so it doesn’t loosen during play.
Proof 1
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#306408_Black &
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Play Structures
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Page:94
Pickleball Author ISBN # Author's review
Backyard Recreation 0781760607 (if needed)
Document name OK Correx
P ickleball is a relative newcomer to the world
of backyard games. With elements of tennis,
Picklball Court-F17.eps
Artist
badminton, and ping pong, it is played on a courtAccurate Art, Inc.
Date
12/10/2009
Initials Date
Check if revision CE's review
roughly half the size of a tennis court (identical to
B x W 2/C 4/C OK Correx
a doubles badminton court) using paddles and a
lightweight plastic ball. Despite the name, pickles are(Width x Depth in Picas)
Final Size
neither used nor consumed during play—the18w gamex 22d Initials Date
was named in honor of the family dog of one of the
co-inventors of the sport.
The pickleball court is 20 feet wide—the same
width as a two-car driveway—and can be played on
asphalt, concrete, wood, clay, or plastic-tiled sports
courts. The USA Pickleball Association organizes
tournaments and sells an official rulebook, though the Pickleball is played with wood or graphite paddles, hollow
basic game is simple to learn (see Resources, page 141). plastic balls, and a net (a badminton net will work).
20' PICKLEBALL RULES
The game starts with a serve (always
underhand) from the right court to the right
court on the other side, like tennis. On
44'
the first serve the ball must bounce once
before the opposing team can return it,
then bounce once before the serving team
hits it back. After those two bounces it can
be returned in the air or after bouncing
once. You can only score when serving,
7' non-volley zone and you score when the other team has a
fault, such as missing the ball, hitting it into
Net the net, or knocking it out of bounds. If the
serving team faults, the other team serves.
7' non-volley zone
The first team to reach 11 with a 2-point
margin wins.
The official pickleball court size is 20' wide and
44' long, with a 7' non-volley zone by the net.
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The net is 36" high at the sides and 34" high in
Baseline
the center.
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Putting Green
S erious golfers often say they “drive for show and
putt for dough,” and most of them practice putting
at every opportunity. For these folks, a backyard
the smell of the fresh-cut Bermuda grass and the feel
of a well-tended green underfoot, you’ll find that there
are a number of artificial putting green options that
putting green is the very definition of luxury. offer a chance to hone your putting stroke.
Natural grass putting greens offer the ultimate The panels and turf we used for making a putting
in luxurious golf environments at home, but they green can be purchased on the Internet. The systems
require special breeds of grass and very specialized are easy to install and produce a good practice
maintenance that very few people have the time or surface—a fine combination when it comes to
equipment to provide. But if you are willing to forego putting greens.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Line trimmer Utility knife Turf spikes Landscape fabric Eye and ear protection
Heavy scissors Hammer Turf tape Fabric staples Work gloves
Screwdriver Graph paper Garden hose or rope Chalk
Jigsaw Putting green panels Spray paint Straightedge
Spade Artificial turf Sand Rake
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Backyard putting greens give golfers a whole new way to have fun and perfect their game. Special kits, including panels and
artificial turf, make building one an easy weekend project.
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Designing a Backyard Putting Green
Choose an above-ground green for seasonal use or even to use indoors. They lack a bit of authenticity, but they are very convenient.
Kit accessories, such as pins and edge liners, give a backyard Artificial turf comes in an array of styles and lengths. Lower
putting green a more genuine flavor. A chipping mat can be nap products, like the two samples to the left, are best for
positioned around the green to let you work on your close-in putting greens.
short game without destroying your yard.
Proof 1
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How to Install a Backyard Putting Green
1 2
Diagram your putting green on graph paper, including cup As soon as it arrives, unroll the turf and spray it with water to
locations. If you are ordering your kit from an Internet seller, they saturate. Set the turf aside and let it dry for at least 24 hours.
probably have a mapping and planning program on their website. This process preshrinks the turf.
Order panels and turf as necessary to create your putting green.
3 4
Measure the installation area and mark the perimeter of the Inside the outlined area, use a line trimmer to scalp the grass
putting green, using a garden hose or rope. Lift the hose or down to the dirt. Rake up and remove any debris.
rope and spray-paint the green’s outline onto the grass. Some
Proof 1 2C
putting green kits are precut to create specific shapes and
sizes, while others offer a bit more design flexibility.
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5 6
Add sand or remove dirt as necessary to create contours in the Cover the scalped and contoured installation area with
putting green. Kit manufacturers suggest that you create the landscape fabric, overlapping seams by at least 2". Trim the
contours that replicate the breaks you most want to practice. fabric to fit inside the outline and secure it to the ground with
For example, if you have trouble hitting uphill and to the right, landscape fabric staples.
create a hill and place the cup at the top and to the right.
7 8
Starting in the center of the installation area, push two panels Continue to fill in panels, according to your plan. Take special
together and hold them tightly in place as you insert the notice of putting cup locations. In many kits, these require
fasteners. Use a screwdriver to tighten the fasteners. Install special panels with cups preinstalled. Locate them according
Proof 1
the panels in locations indicated on your diagram. to your plan. (continued)
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9 10
Where panels go beyond the outline, use a light-colored One panel at a time, cut panels to shape, using a jigsaw with
crayon or chalk to mark a cutting line. Avoid cutting into the a blade that’s slightly longer than the panel thickness. Use
interlocking panel edges. panel scraps to fill in open areas in the layout wherever you
can, and then mark and cut the scraps to fit.
11 12
Dig a 4"-wide by 4"-deep trench around the perimeter of the Place the artificial turf on top of the panels. Pay attention to the
Proof 1 2C
green shape, directly next to the edge of the panels. nap of the turf to make sure it all runs in the same direction. Use
a utility knife to cut it to size, 4" larger than the panel assembly.
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13 14
Install the cups into the panels containing the cup bodies, and Fold back the edges of the turf. Apply double-sided carpet
then cut holes in the turf with a utility knife. tape to the perimeter of the panel assembly. Peel off the tape’s
protective cover, then press the turf down onto the tape. Fold
the excess turf over the edge of the panel assembly and down
into the trench. If the turf bulges around a tight radius, make
3½" slashes in the edge of the turf and ease it around the curve.
15 16
Drive carpet spikes or fabric spikes (provided by the kit Backfill the trench with the soil you removed earlier. Add
Proof 1 2C
manufacturer) through the edges of the turf and into the landscaping around the edges of the green, if desired. Sweep
trench to secure the turf. and hose down the green periodically and as needed.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
(3) ¾" × 10' CPVC
Ladder Golf (6) ¾" CPVC T-fittings
(6) ¾" CPVC elbows
PVC primer and cement
L adder golf doesn’t have much to do with golf, but it’s plenty of fun
and it’s exploding in popularity. Stop by any tailgate party outside
the football stadium and there’s a good chance you’ll see several fans
3
⁄8"-dia. × 20' nylon rope
(12) Solid-core golf balls
engaged in a heated game. Also called ladder toss, ladder ball, and many Hand screw (wood clamp)
other names (some not especially polite), ladder golf is a relatively new Tubing cutter
backyard game that involves tossing short bolas made from golf balls at Drill press and 3⁄8" bit
a ladderlike stand. If the bola wraps around one of the ladder rungs and
stays, you earn points. You can make your own ladder golf game in a few Sand
hours using PVC tubing, some 3⁄8-inch nylon rope, and a dozen golf balls Electrical tape
in two different colors. It’s best to make a pair of goals so all the players Eye and ear protection
don’t have to traipse back and forth after every turn, but a single goal is Work gloves
adequate to play.
Ladder golf is a fun (some would say addictive) backyard game that anyone can play. The goals and the golf ball bolas are easy
Proof 1
and cheap to make yourself.
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24" 90° elbow
12"
24"
12"
T-fitting
24"
12"
T-fitting
Ladder Base
Ordinary PVC tubing is used to make the goals for ladder golf. You’ll need six 12" lengths and nine 24" lengths, along with six tee
fittings, sand, and six elbow fittings. Inset: Look for solid-core golf balls. Top-Flite is one common brand name that has a solid
core. Balls with liquid or gel cores will leak unpleasant chemicals if you drill through the middle.
LADDER GOLF RULES
Ladder golf can be played by any number of players or teams, with each player using three bolas. The top rung of the
ladder is worth 3 points, the middle is 2 points, and the bottom is 1 point. The official throwing line is 15' from the ladder,
but children and the elderly may play closer. Each player throws all three of their bolas before the next player has a turn,
and the player who has exactly 21 points at the end of a round of play wins.
Players are allowed to:
• Throw the bola in any way they wish, including bouncing.
• Knock other players’ bolas off the ladder, thus taking away their points.
• Distract opponents with questions, loud remarks and rude noises.
Players are not allowed to:
• Touch or hit opposing players, even gently.
If a player goes over 21 points in a round, none of that player’s points for that round count. A player who wraps all three
bolas around the same step or around each of the three steps during one round of play earns 1 extra point.
If more than one player gets 21 points, the tying players continue playing rounds until one of them finishes 2 points ahead
of the other.
Proof 1
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How to Make Ladder Golf Goals
1 2
Cut all of the parts for each goal to length from ¾" CPVC Test fit the parts to dry-assemble each goal. In most cases, the
tubing. If you have one, use a tubing cutter for clean cut. fit between tubing and fittings is tight enough that a simple
You can use a hacksaw instead and deburr the cut ends with friction fit with no glue will hold the parts together. This has
emery paper. the added benefit of letting you disassemble the goal easily.
PERMANENT CONNECTIONS
3
Solvent-glue the parts together for a permanent goal
that will not fall apart during use. PVC primer alone will
create a strong enough bond that the parts are unlikely
to come apart, but if you foresee great stress, you can
use solvent glue. One compromise option to gluing
versus not gluing is to glue the parts of the upright
together and to glue the parts of the feet together, but
allow the joints where the uprights meet the feet to
be friction-fit only. That way, the parts can be partially
disassembled for easy storage and transport. Wrap bands of narrow electrical tape (comes in multiple
Proof 1
colors) around the scoring bars as a scoring reminder.
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How to Make Ladder Golf Bolas
1 2
Secure a solid-core golf ball (See page 103) into the jaws of a Set the handscrew clamp with the golf ball onto the table of
wooden handscrew clamp. It is very important that the ball be a drill press and position it so the ball is centered under the
secured during drilling. point of a 3⁄8" bit. Drill all the way through the ball. You can
use a drill without a drill press, but take great care and make
sure the clamp is well secured to the worksurface.
3 4
Feed 3⁄8" nylon rope through the hole in a golf ball. Tie one end Trim the ends of the ropes so about ½" sticks out from each
tightly to secure the golf ball, and then feed the other end knot. Carefully singe the nylon fibers so they melt together
Proof 1 2C
through another golf ball. Tie that end so the distance and will not unravel.
between golf balls is 13".
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Beanbag Toss TOOLS & MATERIALS
½ sheet (4 × 4') Jigsaw
¼" plywood Drill/driver
B eanbag toss was invented, by most accounts,
during the darkness of the middle ages in
Europe. Lost for centuries, it was rediscovered
2 × 4s
2½" deck screws
Duck cloth (for bags)
Dry navy beans for bags
in the back woods of Kentucky in the nineteenth Panel adhesive Needle and thread or
century. However, the basic idea of the game—throw 4d finish nails sewing machine
something at a target—has existed uninterrupted for Exterior wood primer Sandpaper
many thousands of years.
Little equipment is needed to play beanbag toss— Exterior paint Eye and ear protection
just a pair of wooden boxes with holes and several Circular saw Work gloves
small cloth bags filled with dried beans or corn. The
object is to throw the beanbags into the holes. The
two boxes are placed so that the holes are 33 feet
apart for standard play, though you may move the MAKING BEANBAGS
targets closer for players with limited throwing range. You can purchase beanbags inexpensively at any toy
Players stand to the side of a box when pitching. Each store, or you can make your own using dry navy beans
player gets four bags to throw. A bag that goes into or unpopped popcorn and extra cloth. Make bags in
the hole is worth 3 points, a bag that lands on the box sets of four, each from matching cloth. You’ll need
and stays put is worth 1 point, and a bag that ends four bags per player. (Two to four players is typical). To
up off the box is worth nothing. The first player to make each bag, sew two 7" square pieces of duck cloth
21 wins. together on three sides, turn it inside out, and fill with
two cups of dry beans or feed corn (it should be about
14 to 16 oz.). Tuck the open end into the bag, pin it and
then sew it shut, and stitch around all the edges. The
finished bag should be approximately 6 × 6".
Despite its simplicity, a serious game of beanbag toss can last
for hours. Dried beans are the usual filler for the bags, though
Proof 1
dried corn is preferred in some areas of the country.
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How to Make a Beanbag Toss Game
1 2
Cut the plywood underlayment panel into 24 × 48" boards Assemble the frame. Drive 2½" decks screws at the corner
using a circular saw and straightedge cutting guide (or a joints, making sure the corners are square. Cut two 11½" long
tablesaw if you have one). Lay out a 6"-dia. hole 6" down from lengths of 2 × 4 for the legs for each target. Attach the legs by
the top of each panel and cut it out using a jigsaw. driving 2½" deck screws through the legs and into the inside
of the target frame. Attach the top panel to the frame with
TIP: Jigsaws cut on the upstroke, so cut from the underside panel adhesive and 4d finish nails.
of the panel (if it has one) to minimize tear out on the top.
Sand the cut edges thoroughly to smooth the edges and
remove splinters.
3 4
Prime and paint the target boxes. Use exterior-grade paints. Add creative designs with acrylic hobby paints.. Select a fun pattern,
Proof 1
such as the sunrays seen here.
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Special Section: Swimming Pools
A swimming pool can be many things in a backyard.
It’s a lovely water feature that adds immeasurably
to the look of the yard and house. It’s a refreshing
available, but also on the particular uses for which
you want to focus the pool.
luxury that allows you to cool off on even the Entertainment. Most pools for private home use are
hottest of summer days. It can be the centerpiece of built and used for entertainment, whether alone, as
outdoor parties from informal cookouts to wedding a couple, as a family, or with friends, neighbors, and
receptions. But more than any other role, the extended family.
swimming pool is a fantastic place to de-stress and
get regular exercise in one of the most pleasurable Relaxation. Coupled with entertainment, there’s the
activities possible. Choosing the right pool for you benefit of relaxation, of cooling off in the water on a
and your family depends partly on budget and space hot summer day, or enjoying a soak in the evening.
Oval L-shape Extended rectangle/Lap pool Kidney
D-shape Rectangle Round Roman
Typical swimming pool shapes give you several recognizable design options, but if you’re using a vinyl liner or concrete pool
Proof 1
walls and floor, the design possibilities are practically limitless.
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A custom-shaped pool is an eye-catching feature in any yard and makes for interesting waterplay and poolside lounging.
Housing value. Homes with an in-ground pool Exercise. Swimming is one of the best low-impact
add about 8 percent to the value of a residential aerobic exercises you can get.
property, according to a recent study by the
National Association of Realtors; adding an in- Design element. Some pools are designed and built
ground pool to a $200,000 home, for instance, mostly as water features in the garden. Whether still
appreciates its value by $16,000 as soon as you fill it or with movement facilitated by a pump and filter
with water and fire up the pumps. (The same study system, decorative pools bring the soothing and
found that above-ground pools add no discernible attractive element of water to the garden and become
Proof 1
value to a home.) places to reflect alone or gather as a group.
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Concrete Pools
The traditional residential pool (if there is such a seating, might be formed with plywood or rebar in
thing) is an in-ground pool with concrete walls and preparation for concrete. In addition, a thicker “bond
a concrete deck. While there are several advantages beam” along the top of the walls is formed with rebar
to going the concrete route, especially if you live in to support the pool deck and coping.
a temperate climate, more modern shell options Concurrently, the contractor will install (or “rough
have been taking over the home pool market in in”) the pool recirculation system behind and within
recent years. the rebar cage. This includes skimmer openings, the
The excavation for the concrete pool must be main drain, suction valves, and any automated
outfitted with reinforcement (typically metal rebar) cleaning, water feature, and/or lighting conduits that
to strengthen the concrete shell. When finished, are to be run underground from the pool structure
the web of vertical and horizontal rebar resembles a to the equipment set nearby. Once properly installed,
metal cage in the same shape as the excavation, held the pipes, wires, and other conduits are located or
about 4 inches out from the dirt sides and bottom “stubbed up” near the location of the equipment set,
of the pool. Other features, such as steps or integral to be connected later; their openings in the pool
A poured concrete pool with concrete coping
can take on just about any shape you please.
Although concrete is more common in
nonresidential pools and in areas with a warmer
climate, the only good reason not to consider
one is that they cost at least 50 percent more to
install than a vinyl-lined pool of the same size.
Proof 1
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A concrete pool is built much like a
building foundation, with reinforced
Pool deck
concrete walls and floor. Most concrete
pools are coated with a surface layer of
gunite or shotcrete.
Coping
Fill material Rebar
Water
Earth
Sprayed concrete
Brown coat
Plaster surfacing
shell are covered or otherwise protected during the After the pool walls are created, a cement-based
construction process to keep dirt, construction debris, finish is applied to the raw concrete surface. Ceramic
trash, pests, and concrete from clogging the system. tile is often added along the top several inches
In recent years, pool builders have relied on one of of the sidewalls as a decorative feature and as an
two spray-applied methods (gunite and shotcrete) to easy-to-clean material at the waterline in plaster-
create the shell of a concrete pool, all but replacing finished pools.
standard poured concrete and concrete masonry Once the finish is cured (requiring perhaps
units in pool construction. These two spray-applied another week), the pool builder or equipment
methods are more time-efficient and appropriate for installer finishes the systems rough-in with skimmer
concrete pool building. They are easier to control, flaps, drain covers, outlet fittings, and, of course, the
faster to apply, adhere better to the excavated and equipment set nearby. When the deck and any other
reinforced sidewalls without significant sloughing landscape or integral water features and finishes are
(compared to traditional poured concrete methods), completed, the pool can be filled with water, cleaned
Proof 1
and enable the greatest amount of design flexibility. and chemically balanced, and enjoyed.
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Vinyl-lined Pools
In-ground pools built using a vinyl liner are less sides. The process is arduous, requiring several
expensive and faster to install than a concrete pool. people and, especially toward the end, a good deal of
Often called “packaged” pools, they are available in strength. Folds, if any, are spread out or cut away.
a limited—if increasing—variety of shapes and sizes, With the liner securely in place and molded to
and are typically delivered with all the necessary any steps, seating, or other integral features (typically
components to complete the project. accommodated in the factory to maintain the
Instead of reinforced concrete, an interlocking liner’s structural integrity), a contractor installs and
system of support members creates the structure of a connects the plumbing and lighting finishes and
vinyl-lined pool. These components, usually L-shaped, the equipment set, making the pool ready for water.
are engineered and made of aluminum, steel, plastic, Then the contractor fills in the excavated area behind
or stainless steel; a contractor may also use concrete the structural members with dirt (called backfill) to
blocks or treated wood for below-grade projects. balance the pressure on both sides of the pool. The
Regardless, these structural components create a backfill also forms the base for the deck and coping
solid shell for a thick, watertight vinyl membrane. material surrounding the pool.
For in-ground, vinyl-lined pools, the excavation The main concern about vinyl liners is their
phase of the project is similar to that of a concrete vulnerability to chemicals and UV rays, especially
pool, except that the hole must be dug large if the water chemistry is routinely unbalanced and
enough to accommodate the buttresses of the unsanitary. Dry chlorine, for instance, must be
sidewall components, as well as the rough-in of the completely dissolved in the pool water, perhaps mixed
recirculation system and any accessory features in a separate, non-metal bucket of water before being
serving the pool. placed in the pool.
The pool bottom is leveled and covered (and As with any pool, a regular schedule of careful
leveled again) with sand, cement, or vermiculite and appropriate maintenance goes a long way to
to reduce the chance of tearing the liner. With the preserving the integrity and value of your investment.
structure secure and level, the system’s rough-ins in Care for it correctly, and a vinyl liner can last up to 15
place, and the pool bottom ready, the liner is carefully years before it needs to be replaced from normal wear
unfolded and/or unrolled and gently pulled to the and tear.
Vinyl pool liners are taking over much of the residential pool market because they are the least expensive system and they offer low
Proof 1
maintenance. Because the pressure from the weight of the water maintains the pool shape, in-ground vinyl pools cannot be drained.
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In-ground pools with a vinyl liner are low
Coping in maintenance, but the liners usually
require replacement after 15 years or
so. They may also develop leaks over
time, which are normally repaired by
a professional with the pool still full
Vinyl liner
of water.
Sand fill
Water
Earth
Wall panel
(soft backing optional)
Concrete
Anchor pin
Wall brace
Vinyl liners are made in a dizzying array
of colors and patterns that you may
choose from when ordering your new
pool or a replacement liner.
Proof 1
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INSTALLATION OF A VINYL-LINED POOL
A swimming pool with a vinyl liner
is a relatively fast pool type for
professionals to install.The hole that
is excavated for the pool has very low
tolerance, however, so great pains
are taken to get the shape leveled
and finished. Any imperfections in
the excavation will show through
on the finished product.
Once the pool installation is
complete, the pool deck is added.
Often, the deck is made of poured
concrete with integral coping that
covers the tops of the pool support
walls. Other materials, such as
1
flagstone or concrete pavers, also
may be used for the deck surface. The site is excavated to the sidewall depth, then the walls are positioned and braced.
2 3
The excavation is completed to final depth at the deep end, Plumbing and equipment are hooked up and the shape
usually with a backhoe. of the excavation is refined. A concrete footing is poured
around the perimeter of the pool wall.
4 5
Soft wall panels are installed on the excavation walls The vinyl liner is placed into the pool excavation and
to provide cushion so the vinyl is less likely to tear. An attached to the tops of the support walls. The area behind
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additional cushion layer may be installed between the wall the walls is backfilled once all of the pool connections
and the vinyl liner. are made.
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Fiberglass Shell Pools
Fiberglass is a significantly less popular pool type withstand a lot of weight on its edges; a pool deck or
than concrete or vinyl. In-ground fiberglass pools coping material, or stone edging that relies on the
are very limited in their available sizes and shapes. shell for structural support may buckle the fiberglass.
This is mostly because, as factory-made shells, As an alternative, fiberglass pool manufacturers are
they must be built within certain dimensions to be broadening the design options for the integral coping
safely transportable. that’s premolded into their products.
The excavation process for a fiberglass pool is
similar to concrete and vinyl-lined projects; as with
Pool deck
the latter, the contractor digs a hole a bit larger
than the shell to accommodate the system rough-in
components and to allow the installation crew to
properly level the bottom and backfill against the Coping
outside of the pool walls.
Once the excavated area has been prepared and
its bottom leveled or shaped to match that of the Deck base
pool shell as closely as possible, the pool is hoisted
from the delivery truck with a crane and carefully
placed in the hole. Rarely will the first placement be
perfect; more likely, the crew (using the crane) will
have to lift the pool out and refine the excavation to
ensure that the bottom of the pool is completely and
reliably supported.
Eventually, the pool shell is unstrapped, steadied
by temporary bracing, and connected to the
recirculation system rough-in and above-ground
equipment. The pool is filled with water and
backfilled at the same time to balance the pressure Water
on both sides of the walls. The backfill is typically Sand backfill
wet sand that fills voids between the exterior shell
walls and the excavated hole. To provide stability
and drainage for the coping and deck material, some
contractors lay a bed of crushed rock for the top
4 inches or so of the backfill.
Earth Fiberglass shell
In-ground fiberglass pools typically are more
expensive than comparably sized and standard-
shaped concrete pools. However, above-ground
fiberglass pools are more cost-competitive, primarily
because there is no excavation required. They are
also smaller than other in-ground pools, requiring
less water and fewer chemicals (and less expense)
to maintain.
As with any pool, fiberglass is not immune to wear
and tear. The inside gel-coat surface can become
brittle and cracked from neglect and will wear out
over time. Severe surface damage may even affect
the fiberglass material behind the coating, requiring
a patch that may necessitate re-excavation if it is Fiberglass pool shells are simply set into the ground and wet
Proof 1
serious enough to cause a leak. Fiberglass also cannot sand is dumped in from above to backfill around the shell.
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Aboveground Pools
Long perceived as the cheap alternative to in-ground Responding to smaller backyard lots in today’s
pools, the pools that stake their claim above ground new housing landscape, aboveground pool makers
have improved dramatically in appearance, durability, have re-engineered the structural system to eliminate
and performance in recent years. buttresses (the supports projecting from the exterior
Resins are now the rule for exterior shell materials, walls, as backfilling does for an in-ground pool), saving
providing one-piece finishes that not only open up 6 feet or so in the overall width and length of the pool.
design options in color and pattern, but last longer Similarly, the latest above-ground pools are 50 inches
than their predecessors. Inside shells (usually flexible or more deep to more closely resemble in-ground
liners), meanwhile, feature factory-applied patterns that pool depths. Automation and better equipment have
replicate the tiled waterline borders of concrete pools, also crept into the market, and automatic cleaners
among other finishes. Manufacturers are also creating and chlorinators are more common, along with more
perimeter top edges that are 10 inches wide, providing powerful pumps and filters.
enough surface area (and the perception of bulk) to To install an aboveground pool, you start by
meet demand from consumers who don’t want or outlining and then leveling out the pool area to at
cannot accommodate a full deck around the pool. least 4 feet beyond the pool footprint. Level the area
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Aboveground pools may lack some of the cachet of an in-ground pool, but they are much more affordable and much more
practical for many homeowners.
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INFLATABLE & TEMPORARY POOLS
The last distinct category of pool construction is inflatable and temporary pools. These aboveground products are truly
mobile, though often as big (if not as deep) as any other type of pool, and requiring just a flat, clean surface and a
garden hose. More sophisticated models feature attachable pumps and filters to circulate and help clean the water, as
well as covers, cleaning accessories, and repair kits that make it easier to maintain them during heavy seasonal and
multi-year use.
As their name implies, inflatable pools feature sidewalls filled with air to create a vessel for water. Some sport inflatable top
collars that pull the sidewalls up to their full height as the pool fills with water. Similarly, temporary pools feature flexible
sidewalls held up and in place by strategically spaced structural members and filled with water, and offer a consistent
depth, usually about 4 feet.
Made with tough, thick vinyl (the thickest layer forming the bottom), inflatable and temporary pools can be up and ready
to enjoy fast, and they tear down just as quickly. If they are to remain standing or filled for multiple uses or certainly a
season, they can (and should) be sanitized and chemically balanced as a permanent pool to maintain their integrity
and value.
Primarily, however, inflatable and soft-sided pools are an inexpensive and easy way to enjoy the water, and can be stored
and moved simply, making them ideal for renters and budget-conscious homeowners. Such pools are also not considered
“real” or taxable property, as a more permanent pool would be assessed, thus saving you a bit on your property taxes and
homeowner insurance premiums.
Inflatable and temporary pools are being made in ever-larger sizes, dramatically increasing their appeal for backyard use. A
recirculating pump with a small filter (inset) is the only equipment that accompanies most inflatable pools.
by removing high ground, taking care not to disturb is draped over the frame, then held in place with
the ground that remains behind. Then, you assemble plastic edging. Then, the top plates, rails, and cover
a framework made from base rail plates that support are installed according to the pool instructions. The
uprights. A layer of sand is laid on the entire area, to pumps and skimmer are attached as the pool is being
create a smooth bottom and protect the pool bottom filled. Typically, you’ll need to make cutouts in the
from rocks and sharp objects in the ground. liner for the hookups. Make cutouts in the liner and
Once the framework, including the upright panels, install the skimmer and pump when the pool is a
Proof 1
is in place and the sand bed is laid, the liner fabric third full.
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Pool Safety
The importance of safety in and around your pool Safety also extends to how and where you store
cannot be overstated. Simply, it is your primary and use the chemicals needed to maintain a healthy
responsibility as a pool owner to ensure the safety water chemistry, as well as setting and enforcing rules
of everyone who enjoys it, cleans it, keeps the water of conduct in and around the pool during times when
balanced, or even just peers at it enviously over your it’s open and when it’s closed. Carrying an adequate
privacy fence or self-latching gate. level of homeowner liability insurance—and following
Comprehensive pool safety encompasses several the rules to maintain coverage—is a measure of safety
practical measures. Ideally, your pool was designed as well.
and built with safety in mind, including features such Pools are inherently unsafe, as evidenced by
as a slip-resistant deck and coping, a secure perimeter the thousands of unintentional injuries and deaths
fence and gate(s), the proper depth and dimensions that the CPSC attributes to the use of private
for a variety of activities, and provisions for a safety- residential swimming pool use every year. But if you
rated cover. approach your ownership responsibility with that
Other protections recommended by the U.S. understanding and then apply that respect with a
Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) to variety of measures that lessen the risks and hazards,
maintain a safe and healthy private swimming pool you’ll greatly reduce the chances of experiencing an
include: having lifesaving and first-aid gear close accident. Building codes regulating pool construction
at hand, properly anchoring handrails and other and installation often dictate these safety-related
accessory and accessibility features, and posting features, helping explain why the number of private
easy-to-read signs. A pool safety plan may also include pool injuries and deaths have gone down, even as
lighting schemes, thermometers (to ensure safe water nearly 800,000 pools are added each year to the
temperature), and a variety of alarms. several million already in place.
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A solid fence on all sides provides privacy for swimming and sunbathing, and it also keeps neighborhood children from
venturing into danger. Most local codes require fences or walls around pools.
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Common Safety Practices
A nonskid pool deck is a requirement A sturdy ladder with slip-resistant rungs A dome-shaped drain cover keeps
for a safe swimming area. Broomed or steps needs to be well-anchored to objects and limbs from getting drawn
concrete is a very popular choice provide safe access. into or snagged on the drain.
because it is inexpensive and offers
great traction even when it’s wet.
A shepherd’s hook with a pole at least A wood fence near the pool area is A self-closing gate latch automatically
12' long is vital as a tool for reaching a a handy spot to mount a waterproof catches and secures the latch when the
Proof 1
distressed swimmer. first-aid kit. gate swings shut.
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Treehouses
T his section is all about the kids. One of the best
ways to get children out from behind electronic
screens and out of the house is to give them an
outdoor structure where their imaginations can run
wild. The structure doesn’t necessarily have to be a
palace in the sky or the Taj Mahal; it just needs to
accommodate whimsical play, be durable, and—above
all else—be entirely safe to use.
To make sure you hit the mark in creating the
ideal treehouse, include your little ones (or not-so-
little ones) in the design and even some aspects of the
building process. Keep in mind that the final product
doesn’t necessarily need to look polished, as long as it
suits the occupants for which it’s intended.
That said, the trick is to design and build a
treehouse that is large enough to foster imaginative
play for multiple children, while still being small
enough not to overshadow other features in your
landscape. It also should not be so complex that
you become overwhelmed midway through the
construction. Basic straight lines, cut-out windows,
and fundamental butt joints are going to be the order
of the day; the point is to get the structure built rather
than take a great deal of time fussing over details
that might not matter at all to the youngsters using
the structure.
No matter what, though, never sacrifice safety to
expediency, especially with a treehouse. It’s crucial
that everything you do and build be in line with best
standards and practices. The play structure should be
securely attached to a tree or foundation, and should
have no sharp exposed fasteners or rough wood edges
that could lead to splinters.
Proof 1
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HOW BIG SHOULD A TREE BE?
Here are some general guidelines for assessing whether
a tree meets minimum size requirements for your
treehouse. It is assumed that the tree being considered
is mature and healthy and that the treehouse you’re
planning is a moderately sized (100 sq. ft. or so), single-
Treehouses
story structure.
• A single tree that will be the sole support for
the house should measure at least 5 feet in
circumference at its base.
A treehouse is the ultimate un-house. For kids, it’s
a room that never has to be cleaned. A place for
muddy shoes and bug jars and a pocketknife stuck
• Main supporting limbs (where each limb supports
one corner of the house’s platform) should be at
least 6 inches in diameter (19" circumference).
into the wall. A house that you can paint whenever
• Different types and shapes of trees have different
and however you want, without gaining approval. For
strength characteristics—a professional’s
adults, it’s a room that never has to be cleaned, a place assessment of your tree can help you
for muddy shoes and...well, you get the idea. But best plan accordingly.
of all a treehouse is up in a tree. And that’s just cool.
This section walks you through the whole process.
First, you’ll select a tree (or trees). Don’t worry if your
yard isn’t blessed with the perfect specimen; there are
ways around the arboreally challenged. Then you’ll
design the structure to fit the site and, finally, build it
to last.
Finding your host tree is a critical first step in
the treehouse planning process. If your host tree
isn’t up to the task, you’ll have to consider a smaller
treehouse, or design in some auxiliary posts for
structural support.
For most treehouse builders, the tree selection
process (and the design selection process that follows)
is less of a question of which tree to use than it is an
assessment of whether a particular tree is a suitable
candidate. While the viability of your structure is the
key point, don’t neglect to include the health of the tree
when making your assessment. You don’t want to kill
your one beloved tree by burdening it with a structure
that is, relative to the lifespan of the tree, temporary.
Many treehouses have been built successfully by
incorporating more than one tree into the design.
This is usually a good idea from a strength standpoint.
However, designing the treehouse can be a lot like
working by committee, since trees, like people, tend to
act independently when the going gets tough.
Following are some general tips and rules to help
you find a suitable host for the treehouse of your
dreams. But before you start, there’s this advice (it
won’t be the last time you hear it): When in doubt,
ask an arborist. They’re in the phone book, they’re
Measure the circumference of any potential host tree to
not expensive, and they can advise you on everything determine if the tree is big enough to support your treehouse.
Proof 1 2C
from tree diagnosis to healthy pruning to long- For a normal-size treehouse, a single tree should be at least 5'
term maintenance. in circumference at the base.
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General Tree Health
A tree doesn’t have to be in the absolute prime of there might be problems below. Another thing to
its life to be a suitable host for a treehouse, but it check for is girdling, where newer roots—often from
must be healthy. Other factors, such as location, nearby plants—have grown around the tree’s primary
can disqualify a candidate as decisively as its anchoring roots, cutting off their life supply. Another
general health. warning sign: trees next to unpaved driveways or
heavily trodden paths may have suffered damage from
Age. Mature trees are best. They’re bigger, stronger, all the traffic.
and generally they move less in the wind than
younger ones. They also have more heartwood (the Trunk, branches, and leaves (or needles). Inspect
hard, inner core of dead wood). When you drive a lag the largest members of the tree—the trunk and main
screw into a tree, it’s the heartwood that really offers branches. Look for large holes and hollow spots,
gripping power. rot on the bark or exposed areas, and signs of bug
infestation. Check old wounds and damaged areas
Roots. If your tree’s root flares are buried from re- to see how the tree is healing. Avoid trees with a
grading or gardening, take it as a warning sign that significant lean, as they are more likely to topple in
a storm. When it comes to branches, look for stout
limbs that meet the trunk at a near-perpendicular
angle. Typically, the more acute the angle, the weaker
the connection, although several suitable tree species
naturally have branches set at 45 degrees. Dead
branches here and there typically aren’t a problem.
These should be cut off before you start building.
Finally, look at the canopy. In spring and summer the
leaves should be green and full with no significant
bare spots. Needles on evergreen trees should look
normal and healthy.
TREE TIPS
• When you’re building the treehouse and drilling
holes for anchor screws, pay attention to the wood
chips pulled out by the bit: granulated, dusty
material indicates rot inside the tree and should be
investigated further. Look for clean spirals and tough
flakes or chips.
• Trees with multiple trunks often are fine for building
in; however, the trunk junction is vulnerable to being
pulled apart, especially under the added stress of
a treehouse. The recommended remedy for this is
to bind the tree up above with cables to prevent the
Full, green canopy Branches/limbs trunks from spreading. This is a job for an arborist.
at 90° are strongest
Straight trunk • To make sure your tree’s foundation stays healthy,
don’t grow grass or add soil over the root flares.
Low, stout limbs Keep shrubs and other competing plants outside
Root flares (base roots)
with natural exposure or relatively bare trunk of the ground area defined by the reach of the
and no compaction branches. And by all means, keep cars and crowds
damage off the base roots, especially on trees with shallow
root systems.
Proof 1
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Planning
If you built a treehouse as a kid you probably didn’t
spend a lot of time planning it beforehand. You
had plenty of ideas and knew what you wanted—a
trap door, a lookout post, a tire swing, and maybe a
parachuting platform or helicopter pad—you just
weren’t exactly sure how everything would come
together. In the end, you decided to figure it out along
the way and got started. Planning your treehouse can be as much fun as building it, or
Of course, some people might use the same even using it, if you choose to involve everyone and make it
approach today (good luck on the helicopter pad), but into a teaching/learning experience. After all, you’re never too
young to learn about building codes and zoning laws.
be advised that a little planning up front could save
your project from disaster. Remember the guy with
the metal clipboard from the city office? You don’t will sit in the tree, and how you’ll get from the ground
want him showing up with a demolition order just as to the front door—if you want a front door.
you’re nailing up the last piece of trim.
Take time at the beginning of your project to NOTE: Before refining your treehouse plans, read
address some basics, including general design features the remainder of this section for important safety-
such as the size and style of the treehouse, where it related design considerations.
Building Codes & Zoning Laws
When it comes to building codes and treehouses, • Talk with your neighbors about your treehouse
the official word is that there is no official word. plans. A show of respect and diplomacy on
Many municipalities—the governing powers over your part is likely to prevent them from filing a
building and zoning laws—consider treehouses to be complaint with the authorities.
“temporary” structures when they fit within certain
size limits, typically about 100 to 120 square feet and • Use discretion when selecting locations for
not more than 10 to 12 feet tall. If you have concerns windows (and decks) in your treehouse. Your
about the restrictiveness of the local laws, keeping neighbors might be a touch uncomfortable
your treehouse within their size limits for temporary if you suddenly have a commanding view
structures is a good precaution to take. of their hot tub or a straight shot into their
When it comes to zoning laws, the city planning second-story windows.
office is concerned less with a treehouse’s construction
and more with its impact on your property. They may • Electrical and plumbing service running to a
state that you can’t build anything within 3 feet or treehouse tells the authorities that you plan to
more of your property line (called setback restriction) live there, thus your house crosses a big line from
or that you can’t build a treehouse in your front yard “temporary structure” to “residence” or “dwelling”
(the Joneses might not be the treehouse type). and becomes subject to all the requirements of the
The bottom line is this: your local planning office standard building code.
might require you to get a building permit and pass
inspections for your treehouse, or they might not care • Don’t build in a frontyard tree or other locations
what you do, provided you keep the building within that are easily viewed from a public road.
specific parameters. It’s up to you to learn the rules. The point is not to hide from the authorities, it’s
Although city laws are all over the map regarding that conspicuous treehouses attract too much
Proof 1 2C
treehouses, here are a few common-sense tips that are attention and curiosity for the city’s comfort, and
worth following no matter where you live. the house might annoy your neighbors.
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• In addition to keeping the size of your treehouse • Even if the local building laws don’t cover
reasonable, pay attention to any height restriction treehouses, you can look to the regular building
for backyard structures. Treehouses can easily code for guidance. It outlines construction
exceed these, for obvious reasons, but nevertheless standards for things like railings, floor joist spans,
may be held to the same height limits as sheds, and accommodations for local weather and
garages, and other types of buildings. geologic (earthquake) conditions.
Treehouse Safety
The fact is, a house up in a tree comes with some
risks. But so does an elevated deck off of your kitchen
or a jungle gym in your backyard. What makes
you comfortable using any part of your house on a
daily basis is your knowledge that it was designed
thoughtfully to prevent common hazards. Performing
conscientious, regular maintenance of a treehouse,
or any other structure, ensures its safety and helps
protect your peace of mind. The same applies to
treehouses, although treehouses present an additional
safety consideration—building off the ground. A safe design and safe building practices are essential to a
Treehouse safety can be divided into two successful treehouse project. Building a backyard structure is
categories: safe design and safe working conditions. a great chance to involve kids and show them the right way to
work with tools.
Both are equally important and perfectly manageable,
and both should be followed regardless of who uses
the house. A kids’ treehouse naturally involves more there. It’s like bringing a two-year-old into a non-baby-
safety concerns than one used exclusively by adults. proofed home. The adults are suddenly scrambling
However, keep in mind that you never know when madly as they discover all the things that are perfectly
children might visit, and it’s too late once they’re up safe for them but potentially deadly for a toddler.
Safe Treehouse Design
The primary safeguard on any treehouse is the
supporting platform. It alone keeps the house
and its occupants aloft. Even if every other element
is designed to the highest standards, a treehouse is
completely unsafe if the platform isn’t sound. Later
information covers platform construction in detail, so
for now, just two quick reminders:
1. Build platforms for kids’ treehouses no higher than
8 feet above the ground.
2. Inspect the platform support members and tree
connections regularly to make sure everything’s in
good shape.
Proof 1 2C
With a strong, stable platform in place, you can turn Everything’s riding on the treehouse platform. Be sure to
your attention to the other elements of safety in design. design and build it sturdily.
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Windows & Doors
The obvious safety hazard for windows and doors
is glass. So the rule is: don’t use it, especially in kids’
treehouses. Standard glass is too easily broken
during play or by swaying branches or rocks thrown
by taunted older brothers. Instead, use strong
plastic sheeting. The strongest stuff is ¼-inch-thick
polycarbonate glazing. It’s rated for outdoor public
buildings, like kiosks and bus stops, so it can easily
survive the abuse from your own little vandals. Plastic
does get scratched and some becomes cloudy over
time, but it’s easily replaceable and is better than a
trip to the emergency room.
Even more important than the glazing is the
placement of doors and windows. All doors and
operable windows must open over a deck, not a drop
to the ground. If a door is close to an access point,
make sure there’s ample floor space between the door
and any opening in a railing, for example.
Ground Below the Tree
Since occasional short falls are likely to occur when
kids are climbing around trees, it’s a good idea to fill
A sturdy handle is a welcome sight to tired climbers. Make the area beneath your treehouse with a soft ground
sure all handles and mounting hardware are galvanized or
cover. The best material for the health of the tree
otherwise corrosion-protected.
is wood chips. A 6-inch-thick bed of wood chips
effectively cushions a fall from 7 feet, according to
Access Landings the National Resource Center for Health and Safety
Each type of access to a treehouse—ladder, rope, in Child Care. Also, keep the general area beneath the
stairs, etc.—has its own design standards for safety, house free of rocks, branches, and anything else one
but all must have a landing point for arriving and would prefer not to land on.
departing. In many cases, the landing necessitates a
gap in a railing or other opening and thus a potential
fall hazard. Keep this in mind when planning access to
your treehouse, and consider these recommendations:
• Include a safety rail across openings in railings
(this is a must, not an option).
• Leave plenty of room around access openings,
enough for anyone to safely climb onto the treehouse
platform and stand up without backing up.
• Consider non-slip decking on landings to prevent
falls if the surface gets wet.
• Add handles at the sides of access openings and
anywhere else to facilitate climbing up and down;
handholds cut into the treehouse floor work
well, too.
Proof 1 2C
• Install a safety gate to bar young children from A soft bed of loose ground cover is recommended under any
areas where there are access openings. kids’ treehouse or areas where kids will be climbing.
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TREEFORT KNOX
Locking up may seem unnecessary for most backyard
hideaways, but for some treehouses it’s a sensible
precaution. For example, treehouses located out of your
daily view, especially those near a public road, can attract
a lot of negative attention, like vandalism. More importantly,
kids just can’t resist getting into stuff, and you don’t want to
face a lawsuit because you made it easy for them to waltz
into your house and get hurt. Of course, you had nothing to
do with it. But try telling that to a plaintiff lawyer.
These are just suggestions, not legal advice:
• Install a strong door with a padlock (¾" plywood
backed by a lumber frame is a good choice; it may be
ugly, but it’s strong).
• Post signage stating “No Trespassing,” “Private
Property,” “Danger,” or similar warnings.
• Install window shutters that lock on the inside or can
be padlocked from the outside.
• Use plastic instead of glass in windows (the
polycarbonate glazing mentioned on page 126 won’t be
broken with rocks).
• Use a retractable or removable ladder as the only
means of access, and take it away when you leave
the treehouse.
Construction Details it. Test safety railings, handholds, and access
One of the first rules of building children’s play equipment more frequently.
structures is to countersink all exposed fasteners. Inspect the tree around connecting points for
For good reason. If you fall and slide along a post, stress fractures and damage to the bark. Weighted
you might get a scrape and some splinters, but you’re members and tensioned cables and ropes rubbing
much better off than if your kneecap hits a protruding against the bark can be deadly for a tree if it cuts into
bolt on the way down. Follow the countersink rule for the layers just below the bark. Check openings where
all kids’ treehouses. the trunk and branches pass through the treehouse,
Speaking of splinters, take the time to sand rough and expand them as needed to avoid strangling the
edges as you build your house. Your kids and guests tree. Finally, remove dead or damaged branches that
will be glad you did. Also keep an eye out for sharp could fall on the house.
points, protruding nails, and any rusty metal.
Maintenance
Treehouses fight a constant battle with gravity.
This, combined with outdoor exposure and the
threat of rust and rot make regular inspections of
the house a critical safety precaution. Inspect your
treehouse several times throughout the year for
signs of rot or damage to structural members and
all supporting hardware. Also check everything
Neglected support beams and connections are the most
after big storms and high winds, as excessive common causes of treehouse disasters. Check these parts
Proof 1 2C
tree movement can easily cause damage to wood often for rot, corrosion, and damage and replace immediately
structures or break anchors without you knowing if evidence is found.
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Working Safely
Off-the-ground work has its own long list of
safety guidelines on top of the regular set of basic
construction safety rules. Since you can learn about
general tool and job site safety anywhere (please do
so), the focus here is on matters specific to treehouse
building and related gravity-defying feats. But here are
some good points to keep in mind.
Working outdoors presents challenges not faced in
the interior, such as dealing with the weather, working
at heights, and staying clear of power lines. By taking
a few common-sense safety precautions, you can
perform exterior work safely.
Dress appropriately for the job and weather. Avoid
working in extreme temperatures, hot or cold, and
never work outdoors during a storm or high winds.
Work with a helper whenever possible—especially
when working at heights. If you must work alone, tell
a family member or friend so the person can check in
with you periodically. If you own a cell phone, keep
it with you at all times.
Don’t use tools or work at heights after consuming
alcohol. If you’re taking medicine, read the label and
follow the recommendations regarding the use of
tools and equipment.
When using ladders, extend the top of the ladder
3 feet above the roof edge for greater stability.
Climb on and off the ladder at a point as close to
the ground as possible. Use caution and keep your
center of gravity low when moving from a ladder
onto a roof. Keep your hips between the side rails
when reaching over the side of a ladder, and be
During construction, ladder management is an exceptionally
careful not to extend yourself too far or it could important aspect of jobsite safety. Since trees generally do not
throw off your balance. Move the ladder as often afford flat, smooth areas for the ladder rungs to rest, adding
as necessary to avoid overreaching. Finally, don’t padded tips will help stabilize the ladder. And remember: a
exceed the work-load rating for your ladder. Read fall of just a couple of feet from a ladder can cause a fractured
and follow the load limits and safety instructions elbow or worse.
listed on the label.
around a branch to carry the bulk of the weight.
Hardhat Area (Heads Up!) Also, wear a tool belt to keep tools and fasteners
The general area underneath the tree should be off within reach while keeping your hands free to grab
limits to anyone not actively working on the project lumber, etc.
at hand. Someone walking idly underneath to check
things out might not be engaged enough to react if Pulley Systems
something falls. Hardhats are a good idea for anyone A pulley is one of the fun features found on a lot of
working on the project and for kids anywhere close to treehouses. They’re great for delivering baskets full of
the job site. food and supplies. During the build, a simple pulley
Proof 1 2C
To keep an extension cord from dropping—and set up with a bucket or crate is handy for hauling up
sometimes taking your tool with it—wrap the cord tools and hardware.
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Here’s an easy way to set up a simple, weigh 150 pounds and hang on the pulling end, you
lightweight pulley: could raise a nearly 900-pound load without moving a
muscle. The drawback is that you have to pull the rope
1. Using a strong nylon or hemp rope (don’t use six times farther than if you were using a single pulley.
polypropylene, which doesn’t stand up under sun For a high treehouse, you’ll need a lot of rope.
exposure), tie one end to a small sandbag and When hauling up loads with a block and tackle,
throw it over a strong branch. try to have a second person on the ground to man
a control line tied to the load. This helps stabilize
2. Tie a corrosion-resistant pulley near the end of the load and steer it through branches and other
the rope, then tie a loop closer to the end, using obstacles. Additional control like this makes it safer
bowline knots for both. for those up in the tree.
3. Feed a second rope through the pulley and
temporarily secure both ends so the rope won’t slip
through the pulley.
4. Thread the first rope through the loop made in
step 2, then haul the pulley up snug to the branch.
Tie off the end you’re holding to secure the pulley
to the branch.
For heavy-duty lifting, use a block and tackle, which
is a pulley system that has one rope strung through
two sets of pulleys (blocks). The magic of multiple-
pulley systems is that the lifting power is increased by
1× for each pulley. For example, a block and tackle with
six pulleys gives you 6 pounds of lifting force for each A block and tackle makes it easy to lift
pound of force you put onto the pulling rope. If you heavy support beams and pre-built walls.
SAFETY CHECKLISTS
Safe Design Checklist • Fasteners countersunk in all exposed areas.
• Platform no more than 8 ft. above ground (for • No rough wood edges, sharp points, or protruding nails
kids’ treehouse). or screws.
• Strong railings 36" high, with balusters no more than • Screws and bolts only for structural connections to tree;
4" apart. no nails.
• Continuous railing along all open decks and at sides • Regular maintenance check of platform support
of stairs. members and tree connections, railings, access
• Safety rail across all access openings. equipment, and handles.
• No horizontal railing balusters. • Refer to local building codes for your area.
• Large access landings with handles or handholds
as needed.
Safe Construction Checklist
• Safety ropes and harness for any high work.
• No ladder rungs nailed to tree.
• Tie onto safety line even after platform is complete.
• Non-slip decking around access openings.
• No kids or visitors under tree during construction.
• No glass windows in kids’ treehouses.
• Hardhats for workers on ground and all kids.
• Doors and operable windows open onto a deck, not
• Follow basic construction safety and ladder
a drop.
safety rules.
• Soft ground cover beneath kids’ treehouses.
Proof 1
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Platform Basics
A typical treehouse platform is made up of support and family something to make fun of. One handy
beams and a floor frame. The beams are anchored technique for locating anchor points to create a level
to the tree and carry the weight of the entire platform is to set up a mason’s string and line level.
structure. The frame is made up of floor joists A few more tips for building platforms:
that run perpendicular to the beams. Topped with
decking, the floor frame becomes the finished floor • Use a single ¾"-dia. galvanized lag screw to
of the treehouse, onto which you build the walls and anchor lumber directly to the tree. For lightweight
everything thereafter. Some small kids’ treehouses supports, you can get away with ½" lag screws, but
have only a floor as the supporting structure, don’t use anything smaller.
particularly when the house is low to the ground and
is well-supported by branches. • If a situation calls for more than one screw in
Sizing beams and floor joists isn’t an exact science, any part of the tree, never place two screws in a
as it is with a regular house, but standard span vertical line less than 12" apart. To the tree, each
tables can give you an idea about load limits for your screw is treated as a wound; if the screws are too
treehouse. Contact your local building department close together, the wounds might coalesce, causing
for span tables and materials requirements for the area to rot.
beams (also called girders), floor joists, and decking
materials. What’s unique to treehouses is the • Never remove bark to create a flat surface for
additional stress of the tree’s motion and possible anchoring, etc. If done carefully, it’s okay to
twisting forces applied to the floor frame. Flexible shave the surface slightly, but always leave the
anchors are the best defense against tree motion, as protective layer of bark intact. A better solution
you’ll see later. In any case, it’s better to err on the side is to use wood wedges to level out brackets and
of oversized support members. other anchors.
The trick to building a successful platform is not
just in the strength and stability. The platform must • When you’re building a platform up in the tree,
also be level. If you’ve ever been in an old house it’s often helpful to cut beams or joists long at
with a sloping floor, you know why. It messes with first, allowing some play as you piece the frame
your sense of equilibrium and gives you an uneasy together. Cut off the excess after the framing is
“funhouse” feeling. In a treehouse this can lead to a completed, or leave beam ends long to use as
perceived sense of instability, plus it gives your friends outriggers for pulleys, swings, etc.
Fasteners placed close together in a
vertical line can lead to rot in the tree,
causing the anchors to fail.
Proof 1
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Platform Anchoring Techniques
Anchoring the platform is all about dealing with tree movement, fixed anchors are typically used on single-
movement. Here’s the problem: if you’re building in or tree houses anchored exclusively to the trunk, or
around a section of the tree that’s used to moving a lot perhaps used in conjunction with a flexible anchor
in the wind and you tie multiple parts of the tree (or (sliding or hanging—see page 132) at the opposite end
parts of different trees) together, something’s got to give. of the beam.
Usually it’s your platform’s support beams or anchors To install a fixed anchor, drill a slightly oversized
that lose the battle by breaking or simply shearing off. hole for a lag screw through the beam, just below the
The best solution is to respect Mother Nature by using center of the beam’s depth. Drill a pilot hole into the
anchors that make allowances for movement. tree that’s slightly smaller than the screw’s shank. Add
Treehouse builders have come up with a range of one washer on the outside of the beam and one or
anchoring methods for different situations, but most two large, thick washers on the tree side, and anchor
fall into one of the four categories shown here. Knowing the beam to the tree with the lag screw. The washers
the main types of anchors will help you decide what’s on the tree side of the beam help prevent chafing of
best for your project. Often a combination of different the beam against the bark.
anchors is the most effective approach. Sizing the screw: Use a ¾-inch galvanized lag
screw that’s long enough to penetrate at least 5 to
Fixed Anchor 6 inches into the tree’s solid wood. Accounting for
A fixed anchor is the most basic type, with the a 2× (1½-inch-thick) beam, the washers, and the
support beams firmly anchored to the tree with bark, you need at least a 9-inch screw for a major
large lag screws. Because they allow for zero tree beam connection.
A single lag screw is an adequate fixed
anchor for a beam, provided the screw
is heavy enough. Multiple screws can
cause damage to your tree. Thread a
washer between the screw head and
the beam, and add at least a couple
washers between the beam and the
tree to prevent the beam from rubbing
against and damaging the bark.
Centerline of beam
Centerline of screw hole
Proof 1
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3" to 6"
A slot-type sliding anchor allows single-directional movement A bracket-type sliding anchor allows two-directional movement
between the tree or trees and the platform beams. while offering solid support. Unfortunately, you’ll have to have
these custom-fabricated at a local metal shop.
Screw eye
Shackle
Nut and bearing plate
A screw eye or through bolt hanging anchor requires a tree Knee braces support the platform, distributing the load onto
Proof 1 2C
limb at least 6" in diameter. the trunk and off of the lag screws that attach the beams
to the tree trunk.
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Platform Designs
A single-tree platform nestled in tree branches has a sturdy Single tree with trunk as center post has a joist frame that
floor frame made from 2 × 6s and anchored directly to rests on a pair of parallel supports that are bolted to the trunk.
the tree. Braces running from the outer frame joists to the tree trunk
stabilize the frame.
A platform spanning two tree trunks is supported by parallel Two trees and two support posts give direct support to every
Proof 1 2C
2 × 10 beams that are attached to both trunks. V-braces corner of the treehouse platform. Posts should be set on a
stabilize the outside joist frame members. concrete pier that extends below the frostline.
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Installing Decking
If you’re thinking that you’ve just jumped from your house, you might consider plywood or tongue-
platform beams to decking and skipped the floor and-groove decking boards, which make a smooth,
framing, you’re right. Because the configuration of strong floor without gaps.
the floor framing tends to follow the platform design, Install decking boards with deck screws driven
you’ll get a better picture of that with the individual through pilot holes (although you would normally
platform overviews on page 133. nail tongue-and-groove boards). Use screws that are
Most treehouse platforms are decked using long enough to penetrate the floor framing by at least
standard decking techniques. It’s a lot like decking 1¼ inch. Gap the boards ¼ inch apart, or more, if
a . . . well, a deck, or a floor, depending on the desired. Two screws at each joist are sufficient. Install
materials used. Standard decking materials include plywood decking with 2-inch deck screws, driven
5/4 × 6 decking boards, 2 × 6 lumber, and ¾-inch every 6 inches along the perimeter and every 8 inches
exterior-grade plywood. Of these, plywood is the in the field of the sheet.
cheapest and easiest to install, but it comes with one To allow for tree growth, try to leave a 2-inch gap
drawback: treehouse floors tend to get wet, and the between the decking and the tree. This means you’ll
water has no place to go on a solid plywood surface. have to scribe the decking and cut it to fit around tree
By contrast, decking boards can—and should—be penetrations. To scribe a board, set it on the floor as
gapped to allow water through and eliminate pooling. close as possible to its final position, then use a compass
If you’re really committed to creating a dry interior on to trace the contours of the tree onto the board.
Fasten the decking to the floor frame
with corrosion-resistant deck screws.
Below: Use a compass to scribe
decking boards at tree penetrations.
2" gap
Proof 1 2C
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Framing Walls
In the interest of making friends with gravity, treehouse Basic Wall Construction
walls are typically framed with 2 × 2 or 2 × 3 lumber, as A wall frame has horizontal top and bottom plates
opposed to the standard 2 × 4 or 2 × 6 framing used in fastened over the ends of vertical studs. Where a
traditional houses. Single-story treehouses can usually window is present, a horizontal sill and header are
get away with 24 inches on-center stud spacing instead installed between two studs to create a rough opening
of the standard 16-inch spacing. However, the siding (door rough openings have only a header, along the
you use may determine the spacing, as some siding top). On treehouses, similar framed openings can be
requires support every 16 inches. used to frame around large tree penetrations.
How tall you build the walls is up to you. Standard In a four-walled structure, two of the walls are
wall height is 8 feet. Treehouses have no standard, known as “through” walls and two are “butt” walls.
of course, but 6 to 7 feet gives most people enough The only difference is that through walls overlap
headroom while maintaining a more intimate scale the ends of the butt walls and are made longer to
appropriate for a hideaway. Another consideration compensate for the thickness of the butt walls. For
is wall shape. Often two of the four walls follow the simplicity, the two through walls and two butt walls
shape of the roof, while the two adjacent walls are oppose each other so that both members of each type
level across the top. are made the same length.
Build stud walls on the ground and then
lift them up onto the platform one wall
at a time. Below: Through walls overlap
butt walls and are fastened together to
form a corner of the house.
Butt wall
Through wall
Proof 1 2C
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Assemble the wall frame with screws or nails. Add short cripple studs to continue the general stud layout at window and
door openings.
To build a wall frame, cut the top and bottom To frame a window opening, measure up from
plates to equal the total wall length (not counting the bottom of the bottom plate, and mark the sill
the siding and trim). Lay the plates together on the and header heights onto both side studs.
ground—or driveway or garage floor—with their ends
even. Mark the stud layout onto the plates, using 16- NOTE: If you’re using a homemade window,
or 24-inch on-center spacing. Mark for an extra stud make the rough opening 1½" wider and 2¼" taller
at each side of window and door openings; these are than the finished (glazed) window dimensions.
in addition to, and should not interrupt, the general
stud layout. If you plan to install interior paneling or This accounts for the window jambs made
other finish, add an extra end stud to each end of the from ¾-inch-thick lumber and a sill made from
through walls. This gives you something to nail to 2 × 4 lumber. If you’re using a recycled window
when the walls are fitted together. Extra studs might sash (without its own frame), make the rough
also come in handy for nailing exterior siding. opening 1¾ inches wider and 2½ inches taller
Cut the studs to equal the total wall height minus than the sash. Cut the sill and header and install
3 inches, the combined thickness of the plates. them between the side studs, making sure the
Position the plates over the ends of the studs, and rough opening is perfectly square. Install short
fasten them with two 3-inch galvanized wood screws cripple studs below the sill and above the header
or deck screws driven through pilot holes. You can to complete the general stud layout. Follow the
screw through the plates into the ends of the studs, or same procedure to frame a rough opening for a
angle the screws (toenail) through opposing sides of door, making it 2½ inches wider and 1¼ inches
the studs and into the plates. You can also use 10d or taller than the finished door opening ( for a
Proof 1
16d galvanized nails instead of screws. homemade door).
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Building Railings
A railing is primarily a safety device. All too often, • Top and bottom rails should be installed on the
amateur and even professional designers (especially inside faces of railing posts.
professional designers) see railings as an opportunity
to get creative. The result is an unsuitable railing, • Balusters should be fastened with screws; if
which is essentially useless. Build a strong, solid nails are used, balusters must be on the inside of
railing with closely spaced balusters and you won’t horizontal rails.
have to worry about who uses the treehouse, whether
it’s small children or tipsy adults. That means no • All openings in railings—for access to the treehouse
ropes, no cables, and no twigs. Okay. Lecture over. platform—must have a safety rail across the top.
A good treehouse railing employs the basic
construction details of a standard deck railing. Many To build a simple railing, cut 4 × 4 support posts to
treehouse railings are even simpler, eliminating extend from the bottom edge (or close to the edge) of
features like the broad horizontal cap rail commonly the platform’s floor joists to 36 inches above the decking
found on house decks. The important thing is to surface. Anchor the posts on the outside of the joists with
adhere to the following basic design requirements: pairs of ½-inch carriage bolts with washers. Install posts
at the ends of railing runs and every 6 feet in between,
• Tops of railings must be at least 36" above the and at both sides of access openings and stairways.
platform surface. Cut 2 × 4 or 2 × 6 horizontal rails to span between
the top ends of the posts. Fasten the rails to the inside
• Balusters (vertical spindles) may be spaced no faces of the posts with pairs of 3-inch deck screws.
more than 4" apart. Continue the rail through access openings to create
a safety barrier. Mark the baluster layout onto the
• Horizontal balusters are unsafe for children, who outside faces of the rails, spacing the balusters no
like to climb them. more than 4 inches apart. Cut 2 × 2 balusters to extend
from the top of the rail down to the floor framing,
• Railing posts (4 × 4 or larger lumber) may be overlapping the joists by at least 4 inches. Fasten the
spaced no more than 6' apart and must be balusters to the rails and joists with pairs of 2½-inch
anchored to the platform frame, not the decking. deck screws driven into pilot holes at each end.
2 × 2 balusters 2 × 4 rail Safety rail
1
⁄2" carriage bolts
4 × 4 support post
Floor joist
Platform decking
Proof 1
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Building Roofs
A treehouse roof is constructed just as any other small peak, meeting at a ridge beam, or more commonly
outbuilding roof, with the possible exception of the in treehouses, at the tree’s trunk. A shed roof has no
tree trunk that may project through it. If you are not peak, and the rafters simply span from wall to wall. A
experienced with building and covering roofs, consult roof ’s overall strength is determined primarily by the
an additional source for further information. size of rafters and how closely they’re spaced. Because
If you framed your walls with extreme care and treehouses tend to be small buildings, their roofs are
everything came out square and perfectly level, typically built with 2 × 3 or 2 × 4 rafters spaced 16 or
you could design your roof frame on paper and use 24 inches on center. Check with the local building
mathematical calculations to find all the angles and department for rafter span recommendations for
locate the necessary cuts. But because you’re building your area.
in a tree, you’re likely to have a better chance at Choose a roofing material for the roof deck, or
success framing your roof using a cut-to-fit approach. sheathing. If you’re building a small treehouse, take
The main structural members of any framed roof are the easy route and use plywood. On any house with a
the rafters and the roof deck, which is usually made gable or shed roof, consider adding 1x trim up against
from plywood roof sheathing. the underside of the roof sheathing along the end
On a gable roof, the rafters sit on top of the walls, to hide the faces of the outer rafters. For roof
sidewalls and meet at a ridge board, or ridge beam, coverings, your principal choices are asphalt shingles,
at the roof ’s peak. Rafters on hip roofs also form a cedar shingles, or metal roof panels.
Proof 1 2C
A shed roof is the easiest to build among permanent roofs. It can be covered with just about any material, including shingles, roll
roofing and roof panels.
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Treehouse Roof Options
Gable roofs are considered the most classic roof style, with A removable roof made from canvas or a plastic tarp may be
angled wall sections at either end. all you need to shelter a tree fort or sun deck.
Hip roofs are sloped on all sides and are more difficult to A conical roof is an impressive way to top a rounded wall.
Proof 1 2C
frame than sheds and gables. They’re built with closely spaced rafters fanning out from the
roof peak.
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Conversions Charts
CONVERTING MEASUREMENTS
TO CONVERT: TO: MULTIPLY BY: TO CONVERT: TO: MULTIPLY BY:
Inches Millimeters 25.4 Millimeters Inches 0.039
Inches Centimeters 2.54 Centimeters Inches 0.394
Feet Meters 0.305 Meters Feet 3.28
Yards Meters 0.914 Meters Yards 1.09
Square inches Square centimeters 6.45 Square centimeters Square inches 0.155
Square feet Square meters 0.093 Square meters Square feet 10.8
Square yards Square meters 0.836 Square meters Square yards 1.2
Cubic inches Cubic centimeters 16.4 Cubic centimeters Cubic inches 0.061
Cubic feet Cubic meters 0.0283 Cubic meters Cubic feet 35.3
Cubic yards Cubic meters 0.765 Cubic meters Cubic yards 1.31
Pounds Kilograms 0.454 Kilograms Pounds 2.2
LUMBER DIMENSIONS
NOMINAL - US ACTUAL - US (IN INCHES) METRIC NOMINAL - US ACTUAL - US (IN INCHES) METRIC
1×2 3
⁄4 × 11⁄2 19 × 38 mm 2×3 11⁄2 × 21⁄2 38 × 64 mm
1×3 3
⁄4 × 21⁄2 19 × 64 mm 2×4 11⁄2 × 31⁄2 38 × 89 mm
1×4 3
⁄4 × 31⁄2 19 × 89 mm 2×6 11⁄2 × 51⁄2 38 × 140 mm
1×5 3
⁄4 × 41⁄2 19 × 114 mm 2×8 11⁄2 × 71⁄4 38 × 184 mm
1×6 3
⁄4 × 51⁄2 19 × 140 mm 2 × 10 11⁄2 × 91⁄4 38 × 235 mm
1×7 3
⁄4 × 61⁄4 19 × 159 mm 2 × 12 11⁄2 × 111⁄4 38 × 286 mm
1×8 3
⁄4 × 71⁄4 19 × 184 mm 4×4 31⁄2 × 31⁄2 89 × 89 mm
1 × 10 3
⁄4 × 91⁄4 19 × 235 mm 4×6 31⁄2 × 51⁄2 89 × 140 mm
1 × 12 3
⁄4 × 111⁄4 19 × 286 mm 6×6 51⁄2 × 51⁄2 140 × 140 mm
2×2 11⁄2 × 11⁄2 38 × 38 mm 8×8 71⁄4 × 71⁄4 184 × 184 mm
METRIC PLYWOOD COUNTERBORE, SHANK & PILOT HOLE DIAMETERS
STANDARD SHEATHING GRADE SANDED GRADE COUNTERBORE CLEARANCE PILOT HOLE DIAMETER
SCREW
7.5 mm (5⁄16") 6 mm (4⁄17") DIAMETER FOR HOLE FOR
SIZE
9.5 mm (3⁄8") 8 mm (5⁄16") SCREW HEAD SCREW SHANK HARD WOOD SOFT WOOD
12.5 mm (1⁄2") 11 mm (7⁄16") #1 .146 (9⁄64) 5
⁄64 3
⁄64 1
⁄32
15.5 mm (5⁄8") 14 mm (9⁄16") #2 1
⁄4 3
⁄32 3
⁄64 1
⁄32
18.5 mm (3⁄4") 17 mm (2⁄3") #3 1
⁄4 7
⁄64 1
⁄16 3
⁄64
20.5 mm (13⁄16") 19 mm (3⁄4") #4 1
⁄4 1
⁄8 1
⁄16 3
⁄64
22.5 mm (7⁄8") 21 mm (13⁄16") #5 1
⁄4 1
⁄8 5
⁄64 1
⁄16
25.5 mm (1") 24 mm (15⁄16") #6 5
⁄16 9
⁄64 3
⁄32 5
⁄64
#7 5
⁄16 5
⁄32 3
⁄32 5
⁄64
#8 3
⁄8 11
⁄64 1
⁄8 3
⁄32
#9 3
⁄8 11
⁄64 1
⁄8 3
⁄32
#10 3
⁄8 3
⁄16 1
⁄8 7
⁄64
#11 1
⁄2 3
⁄16 5
⁄32 9
⁄64
Proof 1
#12 1
⁄2 7
⁄32 9
⁄64 1
⁄8
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Resources
BLACK+DECKER
Portable power tools and more
Surface America
Specialized surfacing for playgrounds and
GOLF
www.blackanddecker.com other recreational surfaces TJB
www.surfaceamerica.com Putting green kits and supplies
shop.tjb-inc.com
PLAYGROUND SAFETY GameTime
Full range of synthetic playground Pro Putt Systems
National Program for Playground Safety
surfacing materials Backyard and indoor putting greens,
Thorough website covering all aspects of
www.gametime.com strike mats, and accessories
playground safety standards, products,
www.proputtsystems.com
and best practices
www.playgroundsafety.org TREEHOUSE SUPPLIES Backyard Golf
Putting green kits and supplies
Consumer Product Safety Commission Treehouse Supplies
www.backyardgolf.us
www.cpsc.gov Hardware kits and individual hardware
Outdoor Home Playground Safety components
Handbook by the Consumer Product www.treehousesupplies.com HORSESHOES
Safety Commission is availa ble at: National Horseshoe Pitchers Association
www.cpsc.gov/s3fs-public/324.pdf SKATEBOARD RAMPS Rules, information, and other resources
Safe Kids www.horseshoepitching.com
Skate Ramp Parts
Nonprofit dedicated to keeping children Surfacing, plans, and accessories for
safe on the playground and beyond building your own skate ramps PICKLEBALL
www.safekids.org www.skateramps.us United States Pickleball Association
Playgrounds & Playground Equipment Skatelite Rules, store, and other relevant
Full playground kits and individual Surfacing product for skateboard ramps information
components www.skatelite.com www.usapa.org
www.playstarinc.com Pickle-Ball, Inc.
SwingWorks Paddles, balls, nets, and information
Swing components, slides, accessories, BASKETBALL about the game
and hardware Versacourt www.pickleball.com
www.swingworks.com Complete court surfaces for basketball Pickleball Central
Detailed Play Systems and other home sport courts Full range of paddles, nets, balls, and
Full range of backyard play structure kits www.versacourt.com accessories
and components Goalrilla www.pickleballcentral.com
www.detailedplay.com Basketball goals and hoops
www.goalrilla.com
Swingsetmall.com
Wide selection of swings, zip lines, tube Snapsports
SWIMMING POOLS
slides, accessories, and more Athletic surfaces for the home Doughboy
www.swingsetmall.com www.snapsports.com Manufacturer of aboveground pools;
contact for dealer near network
Swing Kingdom www.doughboypools.com
Full range of play structures and BOCCE
accessories Crestwood
Boccemon.com
www.swingkingdom.com Manufacturer of wood-clad and traditional
Surfacing materials, supplies, and bocce
aboveground swimming pools
CedarWorks court plans
www.crestwoodpools.com
Indoor and outdoor all-wood playsets, play www.boccemon.com
structures, and playhouses Leisure Pools
Da Vinci Bocce
www.cedarworks.com Supplies fiberglass pools and water
Bocce ball supplies
features
RubberScapes www.davincibocce.com
www.leisurepoolsusa.com
Rubber mulch for playgrounds United States Bocce Federation
www.rubberscapes.net Endless Pools
Rules, tournament listings, and other
Smaller-than-average lap pools with
information covering the sport of bocce
artificial currents
www.usbf.us
www.endlesspools.com
Proof 1
RESOURCES 141
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Index
Aboveground Pools, 116–117 Concrete Pools, 110–111 hardware, playset, 36
access landings, 126 conical roofs, 139 hip roofs, 139
air compressor, 18 conversion charts, 140 hoe, 19
air hammer, 18 costs, estimating, 9 home sports
air hose, 18 counterbore diameters, 140 about, 79
anchoring techniques court layout, 86 Basketball Hoop, 86–87
for equipment, 23 curves, plotting, 12 Beanbag Toss, 106–107
platform, 131–132 Bocce Court, 88–91
arborists, 122, 123 deadman anchors, 14 Horseshoe Pit, 92–93
artificial turf, 97 decking, installing, 134 Ladder Golf, 102–105
awl, 19 design Pickleball, 95
safety checklist for, 129 Putting Green, 96–101
backboards, 86 for treehouses, 125–127 Skateboard Ramp, 80–85
backyard fun direct-mounted goals, 87 Tetherball, 94
about, 51 DIY Playset, 36–45 hoop jump, 73
Classic Tree Swing, 64–65 DIY Swingset, 46–49 Horseshoe Pit, 92–93
Jungle Gym, 66–71 doors, 126 horseshoes, rules for, 92
Obstacle Course, 72–73 drain cover, 119
Seesaw, 56–59 drainage, improving, 13 impact driver, 18
Swinging Rope Challenge, 74–77 drill/driver, 18 inflatable pools, 117
Timberframe Sandbox, 52–55
Zip Line, 60–63 ear protection, 11 jigsaw, 18
balance beam, 73 elevation sketches, 12 Jungle Gym, 66–71
balusters, 137 eyewear, protective, 11
bar clamps, 19 knee braces, 132
basketball goals, 86–87 fasteners, 17
Basketball Hoop, 86–87 fencing around pools, 118 ladder
Beanbag Toss, 106–107 Fiberglass Shell Pools, 115 building, 43
beanbags, making, 106 finish-nail gun, 18 for pool, 119
block and tackle, 129 first aid kit, 119 Ladder Golf, 102–105
bocce, how to play, 89 fixed anchor, 131 ladder golf rules, 103
Bocce Court, 88–91 floor joists, 130 launching pads, 63
bolas, making ladder golf, 105 framing square, 19 location, 12
boundaries, 12 framing-nail gun, 18 lumber, types of, 16
bow saw, 19 freestanding goals, 87 lumber dimensions, 140
bracket-type sliding anchor, 132
building codes, 124–125 gable roofs, 139
building materials, 16–17 garden hose, 19 maintenance for treehouses, 127
building permits, 10, 12 garden rake, 19 mason’s line, 19
butt walls, 134 gate latch, self-closing, 119 materials
glass goals, 87 building, 16–17
carpenter’s level, 19 gloves, protective, 11 hauling, 17
caulk gun, 19 goals measurements
cedar, 16 basketball, 86–87 converting, 140
chain saw, 18 making ladder golf, 104 triangulated, 12
chalk line, 19 golf metal shears, 19
chisel bits, 18 ladder, 102–105 metric conversions, 140
circular saw, 18 putting green for, 96–101 monkey bars, 66–71
Classic Tree Swing, 64–65 ground cover, 126 mulch
clearance, 12 options for, 15
climbing rope, adding, 45 hammer, 19 spreading, 25
combination square, 19 hand tamp, 13, 18
compass, 19 hanging anchor, 132 neighborhood restrictions, 9
composite lumber, 16 hardhats, 128 nonskid pool deck, 119
Proof 1
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options for, 139 tamping machines, 18
Obstacle Course, 72–73 rope, for tree swing, 65 tape measure, 19
rubber mallet, 19 teeter-totter, 56–59
rules temporary pools, 117
pea gravel, 15 for horseshoes, 92 terrace hillsides, 14
Pickleball, 95 for ladder golf, 103 Tetherball, 94
pickleball rules, 95 for pickleball, 95 tetherball rules, 94
pilot hole diameters, 140 for tetherball, 94 through walls, 134
pipe clamps, 19 Timberframe Sandbox, 52–55
planning tire run, 73
about, 9 safety tires, shredded, 15
treehouses, 124 checklists for, 129 tools, 17–18
plans, buying, 23 equipment for, 11 tree health, 123
plastic lumber, 16 playground, 24 treehouses
platforms pool, 118–119 about, 121–122
anchoring, 131–132 for treehouses, 125 building codes and zoning laws, 124–125
basics of, 130 when building treehouses, 128–129 building railings, 137
designs for, 133 when working and building, 10 building roofs, 138
play structures for zip lines, 60 design, 125–127
about, 21 sand, 15 framing walls, 135–136
choosing play system, 22–23 Sandbox, Timberframe, 52–55 installing decking, 134
DIY Playset, 36–45 saws, 19 planning, 124
DIY Swingset, 46–49 scaled construction drawings, 10 platform anchoring, 131–132
playground safety, 24 scribing decking, 134 platform basics, 130
precut playground kit, 26–35 securing playground equipment, 25 platform designs, 133
securing playground equipment, 25 Seesaw, 56–59 roof options, 139
play tunnel, 72 shank diameters, 140 tree health, 123
playground builders, 22 shed roofs, 138 treehouse safety, 125
Playset, DIY, 36–45 shepherd’s hook, 119 working safely, 128–129
playset hardware, 36 shovels, 19 triangulated measurements, 12
plumb bob, 19 shredded tires, 15
plywood, metric, 140 site plans, 12
pneumatic tools, 18 Skateboard Ramp, 80–85 uneven ground, improving, 13
post footings, 24, 39–40 slide, attaching, 44 utility lines, 10, 12
posthole digger, 19 sliding anchors, 132
power auger, 18 slot-type sliding anchor, 132
socket wrench, 19 Vinyl-lined Pools, 112–114
power tools, 18
precut playground kit, 22, 26–35 sod cutter, 18
pressure sprayer, 19 specialty tools, 18 wall-mounted goals, 87
pressure-treated pine, 16 speed square, 19 walls, framing, 135–136
property lines, 9, 10 surface materials, 15, 25 water slides, 77
pruning shears, 19 swimming pools windows, 126
pry bars, 19 about, 108–109 wood chips, 15, 126
pulley systems, 128–129 Aboveground Pools, 116–117 wood chisel, 19
Putting Green, 96–101 Concrete Pools, 110–111 wood fibers, engineered, 15
putty knife, 19 Fiberglass Shell Pools, 115 wood mulch, 15
inflatable pools, 117
pool safety, 118–119
rafters, 138 shapes for, 108 yard survey, 12
railings, building, 137 temporary pools, 117
removable roofs, 139 Vinyl-lined Pools, 112–114
respiratory protection, 11 Swing, Classic Tree, 64–65 Zipline, 60–63
retaining walls, 14 Swinging Rope Challenge, 74–77 zoning laws, 124–125
roofs Swingset, DIY, 46–49
building, 138
Proof 1
INDEX 143
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Photography Credits
The Association of Pool and Spa Intex Pools Shutterstock
Professionals www.intexpools.com p. 6, 8, 20, 24, 50, 60, 63 (bottom
www.theapsp.org p. 117 right),109, 116, 118
703-838-0083
p. 110 iStock Photo
p. 57, 72 (top right), 86 (top), 87 (top right
Barbara Butler and left), 88, 92, 93 (inset), 94 (bottom
www.barbarabutler.com left), 97 (top), 106 (left)
p. 23
My Life Photos/Alamy Stock Photo
Bob Scott/Getty Images p. 78-79
p. 77
© Peter Mason
Dennis MacDonald/Alamy Stock Photo p. 120-121
p. 95 (top)
Proof 1 2 T
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