Carpentry & Woodworking
Black & Decker Readymade home furniture
Source: Black & Decker Readymade home furniture.pdf
Source file: Black & Decker Readymade home furniture.pdf
READYMADE
HOME FURNITURE
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© 2018 Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc. Library of Congress Control Number: 2018952181
First published in 2018 by Cool Springs Press, an imprint of Acquiring Editor: Mark Johanson
The Quarto Group, 401 Second Avenue North, Suite 310, Project Manager: Jordan Wiklund
Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA. T: (612) 344-8100 F: (612) 344-8692 Art Director: Brad Springer
www.QuartoKnows.com Photography: Rich Fleischman
Layout: Kim Winscher
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any Photo Assistance: Eric Smith, Ian Miller
form without written permission of the copyright owners. All images Author: Chris Peterson
in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior
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by producer, publisher, or printer for any infringement of copyright
or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication. Every Printed in China
effort has been made to ensure that credits accurately comply with
information supplied. We apologize for any inaccuracies that may
have occurred and will resolve inaccurate or missing information in a
subsequent reprinting of the book.
Cool Springs Press titles are also available at discount for retail,
wholesale, promotional, and bulk purchase. For details, contact the
Special Sales Manager by email at specialsales@quarto.com or by
mail at The Quarto Group, Attn: Special Sales Manager, 401 Second
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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
ISBN: 978-0-7603-6162-7
Digital edition published in 2018
eISBN: 978-0-7603-6163-4
BLACK+DECKER and the BLACK+DECKER logo are trademarks of The Black & Decker Corporation and are used under license. All rights reserved.
NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The publisher and
BLACK+DECKER cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse
of the information provided.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional
techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions included with products,
since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required:
some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help.
Consult your local building department for information on building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to
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CONTENTS
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
The Hardware Store Primer . . . . . . 8
Creative Reinventions . . . . . . . . . 28
Utility Organizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Trim-and-Rope Mat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Copper Pipe Pot Rack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Countertop Wine Rack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Tasting Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Rolling Bar Cart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
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CONTENTS
Chunky Club Chair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Maple Molding Room Divider . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
Aluminum Sheet Lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
Bedroom or Entryway Bench . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Living Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Plant Stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Five-Gallon Planter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Message Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
Birdhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98225997 - Black & Decker Readymade Home Furniture_001-144.indd 4 12/9/18 12:42 PM 225997 - Black & Decker Readymade Home Furniture_001-144.indd 4 30/8/18 2:20 PM Title: 225997 - Black & Decker Readymade Home Furniture Text Black Page:4
Built-Ins from Stock Cabinetry . . . . 104
Bed Surround . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
Closet Home Office . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Custom Laundry Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Compact Laundry Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
Hobby Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
Media Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Towel Tower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Crown Molding Shelf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Metric Conversion Chart . . . . . . . 142
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
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Introduction
W hy the endless fascination with hardware stores and home centers? Why are
home craftsmen and craftswomen, and even the least experienced DIYer among
us, drawn to the local hardware store as if in a trance? It doesn’t seem to matter if
it’s a mom-and-pop operation crammed between the ice cream shop and pharmacy
downtown, or the big box home center that has its own exit off the interstate. The
allure is there regardless and even when you don’t actually need anything. But what is
that allure? Just what is it about hardware stores?
The answer can be summed up into one word: possibilities.
Those possibilities come in two flavors—piece-by-piece and complete packages.
A hardware store is actually a little like a well-stocked supermarket: you can buy all
the ingredients you need to create something really wonderful that is completely
yours, or you can buy an already completed creation. The “already completed”
purchases, such as tool chests, lighting fixtures, and screen door kits, are certainly
interesting and useful, but they are just one part of this book.
In fact, this book is about all the bits and pieces that can be put together in new
and ingenious ways to create home furnishings and accents that are at once useful,
fun, unique, and economical. That includes both fully complete structures like prefab
cabinetry and materials that can serve as one component in a greater structure, such
as vinyl or wood crown molding. This book is about recipes that make the most of
all those bits and pieces you might find on a scavenger hunt in a home center and
hardware store aisles.
And although the projects in the pages that follow may use home center staples
in ways that they were never intended to be used, those projects don’t include
arcane materials. Everything incorporated here can be found at any well-stocked
hardware store. We’ve been careful not to include special-order items, or those that
come in sizes not commonly stocked. The focus here is on fun, not frustration.
The emphasis is also on creativity. As you read through these projects and pick
one or two (or more) to tackle in your own workshop, keep in mind that these are
explicitly designed to be adaptable. You can change measurements to fit your own
home spaces and needs, swap out different materials as appropriate and available,
and finish your creations in a way that suits your own sense of style. Never fear
to customize any of these. Of course, you can always craft them just as intended.
The designs have been developed to suit a wide range of interior styles and looks.
Although it’s the nature of hardware projects to look more industrial than traditional,
all the projects are meant to be subtle enough that you don’t have be a fan of
steampunk to appreciate the looks.
These projects are also designed with the novice in mind. None require
specialized expertise or tools, and they can all be built with just a modicum of
attention to detail, patience, and elbow grease—resources every homeowner has
at his or her disposal.
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Every aisle in a hardware store offers the promise of some new, ingenious creation just
waiting to be designed and built.
Beyond the design styles, the lineup of projects has been developed to include
something for every room in the house. It doesn’t matter if you’re looking for a new
workspace in the corner of a guest bedroom, a totally organized all-in-one structure
for your out-of-control laundry room, or even a sturdy arm chair that can do your
living room proud and find a home on the patio as well—you’ll find all that in the
pages that follow. Oh, and much, much more.
So pick a creation that meets your needs and preferences, and then use it as an
excuse for yet another trip to your local, oh-so-appealing hardware store (or a lost
Saturday afternoon in that home center down the way). Fun and home improvement
satisfaction in equal measure await you in those aisles.
INTRODUCTION 7
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The Hardware Store Primer
Mixing and matching home center or hardware- to creating stable, lasting, and safe projects for
store materials in interesting and useful projects the home, proper fastening is key. That’s why
requires an understanding of the basics in we start here with the hardware that holds other
each aisle, all those materials that could go into pieces together.
making any project successful. It also means
knowing what tools are best for the job at hand FASTENERS
and how best to use them. The projects featured
There are many, many ways to fasten one part of a
in this book require a balance of creatively
project to another, and any decent hardware store
combining dissimilar materials with tried-and-true
will stock most all of them. Picking the best fastener
construction methods that will ensure the integrity
and fastening method is crucial to the security and
and longevity of anything you build.
integrity of whatever you build. The method you
The best materials for these types of
choose will be dictated by whether you’re joining
projects are durable, resistant to wear and
like materials, or completely different bits and
abuse, and easy to modify. Although there
pieces, the inherent stresses in the design, the use
are obvious candidates that pop out at you
for which the project is intended, and other factors.
in any tour of a home center—wood shelving,
cabinetry, common fasteners, brackets—it’s Nails and screws. Nails are easy to use, hold
wise to keep your eye and your mind open to fairly well, and are available in a vast number of
more unusual choices that can fill the bill. You’ll sizes, types, and styles to suit a wide range of
probably be surprised at where your imagination applications. However, screws are more precise,
leads you. For instance, PEX pipe could be provide greater longevity, and are easier to
used to craft a funky and eye-catching spiral remove without damaging project materials.
tomato cage for the garden, or as a decorative That’s why although finishing nails are still the
accent on a larger project. Go down every aisle best choice for many basic wood-to-wood joints
in the hardware store with fresh eyes and no where appearance is very important, screws will
preconceptions and you’ll be surprised how inevitably be the better option for the type of
many possibilities become apparent. projects featured in this book. The challenge is
No matter what materials might go into what selecting exactly the screw that will do the job
you’re building, they have to be put together in a best; there are an awful lot of types from which
way that makes structural sense. When it comes to choose.
Screw Types
Square-drive
Slotted Phillips Pozidriv® (Robertson) Hex-drive Torx
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Drywall screws are an all-purpose, popular Machine Bolts
go-to option for many home craftsmen working on
their own creations. Problem is, they strip easily
and can be hard to drive into certain materials and
Hex bolt
situations—not to mention their tendency to snap
when driven into dry lumber. It seems like there
has to be a better all-purpose fastener.
These days, there is. Even small hardware
stores now stock wonderful modern screw
alternatives. Known generically under their brand
names such as Spax and GRK, these fasteners
feature innovative designs that have redefined
what multi-application screws can be. Most feature
Flange bolt Tap bolt
Torx-drive or Pozidrive heads, styles that are far
less likely to strip than Phillips or standard slot-
head screw designs. These screws are specially
designed with threads that alleviate the need for
pilot holes and, in some cases, for countersinking. you’re going for an industrial vibe). The projects in
Torx heads have a distinctive star-drive head, while this book rarely use these types of fasteners.
Pozidrive features a sturdier version of the Phillips
Glues and adhesives. For such a simple
head; both are incredibly strong gripping.
concept—a liquid that dries to bond two material
Regardless of the type of screw you choose,
surfaces together—there is an incredible
size matters. As a general rule of thumb, any screw
diversity of adhesives available inside even the
should penetrate at least half the thickness of
most modest hardware store. In most structural
the material serving as the base. Screws are also
situations, adhesive or glues are not used
organized by thickness or gauge. Gauges range
alone; the holding strength just isn’t as great
from #2 to #16; #8 is the most common and the
as a physical connection such as a screw. Most
most useful in the type of general construction
adhesives are also inefficient or completely
used in the projects here. However, #12 is a good
incapable of bonding dissimilar materials. That
choice if you’re using especially thick or heavy
said, they have their place in some projects.
material, and finer work may call for #6. The screws
Wood glue is a handy option for wood-to-
are categorized by length within the gauges.
wood bonding. You’ll find three grades of wood
Nuts and bolts. As long as both sides of the glue: Type 1 that is applicable for interior and
material being fastened are accessible, a nut some mild exterior uses (some level of water
and bolt can be a super-solid, permanent way of resistance); Type 2, for exterior applications; and
joining even very dissimilar materials. However, Type 3, which is meant for interior use only. As
bolts are generally more awkward to work with the name implies, wood glues are not very good
than screws. There are different styles of bolts at bonding wood with plastics or metal. For that,
with different head shapes, but most are clunky you’ll need a more versatile adhesive.
and apparent, which can make them a poor Cyanoacrylate is a class of multi-purpose
choice for applications where looks matter (unless glues that works on many different materials
THE HARDWARE STORE PRIMER 9
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Some of the adhesives useful in home carpentry include carpenter’s wood glue, exterior carpenter’s glue, liquid
hide glue, polyurethane glue, panel adhesive, latex caulk, silicone caulk, and a hot glue gun with glue sticks.
(although the holding strength varies, depending used in wood-to-wood mating, are sandable and
on the material being bonded). The most stainable, and have impressive holding strength.
common of these is known generically as super They can also be used to fill gaps.
glue. Cyanoacrylates can be effective over Construction adhesive is a general-purpose
small surface areas, but are not regularly used product meant to hold varying materials
in projects such as the ones in this book. That’s together, such as sticking vinyl molding to wood
because they are tricky to work with; they set board. You’ll find sub types like panel adhesive,
quickly and are difficult to clean up or remove meant for what the name denotes. These aren’t,
once they dry and cure. They also have a minimal however, the best choice for pure strength
shelf life—about one year unopened. and long-term holding power when it comes to
Epoxies are some of the most useful projects like furniture. Any type of construction
adhesives. Most are two-part formulas that adhesive is more often used as in tandem with
require speed and precision to use, but provide another method of fastening, such as screwing
superior holding strength. Some can be used or nailing.
as gap fillers, and epoxies can be good choices Certain guidelines apply regardless of the
for bonding dissimilar materials. adhesive you’re using. Unless you’re completely
Polyurethane glues are interesting modern familiar with the glue or adhesive, always test it
choices for eclectic projects. Initially hyped as the first on scraps of the materials you’ll be bonding.
ultimate construction glue, polyurethane products Be clear on the proper cleanup method for
may not totally live up to the hyperbole, but they the adhesive, and read and follow all safety
do offer a lot of advantages. They are usually recommendations. Before you use an adhesive,
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make sure the surface is clean of dirt, grease, or Zip ties
any debris such as sawdust. Any adhesive bond
is reliant on full and unimpeded contact with
connecting surfaces.
Zip ties. These are handy, if somewhat
unattractive, fasteners best used for materials of
unusual shapes that need to be secured together
(like pipes crossing in an X or a T). Zip ties come
in a full range of lengths and, even though they
are incredibly strong, it’s easy to cut them with
a sturdy pair of scissors. They are simple to use,
don’t degrade, and they will tolerate shifting and
various stresses and strains over time. They are Keep in mind that unlike wood, plastic is not
not, however, as useful or convenient for bonding one type of material—there are actually many
one surface directly to another as other options. different plastics. This complicates bonding any
given plastic surface. For instance, PVC pipes
JOINING SPECIFIC MATERIALS are fastened to other PVC pipes with cement,
but the correct cement must be used; there are
Every material is most easily bonded with similar
different types for PVC, CPVC, ABS, and different
materials. But there are chemical and physical
schedules of plastic pipes (and, unfortunately, the
ways to join dissimilar surface materials.
tins they come in all look the same). That’s why
Plastic. Plastic-to-plastic bonds are often made it is especially important to put on the reading
with adhesives because there are so many glasses when shopping for adhesives for plastic,
bonding agents to choose from. The table below and closely follow the recommendations and
lists the best. instructions on the label.
A SHORT AND QUICK PRIMER TO PLASTIC ADHESIVES
ADHESIVE: IDEAL USE: DRAWBACK:
Epoxy Strong permanent bond; anywhere user Messy and requires precision
control over hardening is desired; holds
in wet conditions
Cyanoacrylate Stationary parts; low torsional resistance Outdoor use; bond will weaken under
repeated extreme temperature swings
Acrylic Adhesive Exceptional bonding strength similar Fast acting, little room for error
to epoxy
Solvent Cement Only on plastic-to-plastic mating; Have to match proper solvent to type of
permanent, unbreakable bond plastic; will not work with other materials
Urethane Wherever flexible bond is desired; great Weaker than other adhesives, never hard;
for mating plastic to other materials can be a challenge to cure correctly
THE HARDWARE STORE PRIMER 11
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Metal. Walk down any hardware store aisle projects to counteract potential vibrations—in
and you’ll come across many different types of which case, the rubber will be screwed or bolted
metal. Expanded metal sheet. Sheet metal joist to other materials and surfaces. Where the
hangers. Iron L brackets. Diamond plate. All rubber surface is meant to be both structural
of these can be handy in reinforcing a project. and decorative, gluing the rubber down may be
Joining one to another can be done quickly and preferable. Choose an adhesive based on the
permanently by high-temperature welding. But material to which you’re attaching the rubber. In
let’s face it: welding is dangerous, complicated, general, use a silicone-based adhesive when
technical, and won’t work for certain dissimilar joining rubber to metal; use a contact or spray
metals. Not to mention, most people don’t adhesive when joining rubber to plastic or wood.
have a welding rig parked in the corner of their
Fabric. Some projects involve adding fabric
garage. That’s why none of the projects in this
panels to a frame or other structure. Fabric can
book mention welding.
be a wonderful way to personalize a project or
In the vast majority of cases, the easiest way
add an unexpected look. You’ll find some fabrics
to attach metal to any material—including another
that will tolerate exposure to the elements, so
metal surface—is physical fastening. That means
you can even use them on outdoor projects.
screwing or bolting the pieces together. You’ll find
There are several ways to secure any fabric in
more on metal-drilling bits on page 17.
place. Grommet kits are widely available at home
Wood. Joining wood to wood is one of the most centers and hardware stores, are inexpensive,
common steps in home DIY projects. Wood is and often include everything you need—the tools
naturally an accommodating material: cheap and as well as the grommets. The kits are simple to
easy to modify. Wood can be laminated to other use. They involve punching holes along one edge
wood with wood glue, a combination of glue and of a fabric panel or sheet, and then reinforcing the
fasteners, or fasteners alone. Although they can be holes with metal grommets. The panel or sheet
very handy in situations where the wood will not can then be hung or attached to a frame with
be subjected to extreme torsional forces or rough paracord, twine, cable, or specialized hangers.
handling, wood glues are not among the stronger There is also a quicker, less formal way to attach
adhesives and many are not even waterproof. fabric to a tubular frame. Snap clamps are simple
Wood can be nailed to wood, but plastic sections that clamp over pipe or thick
increasingly nails are only used for finishing work dowels, and can be used to hold fabric in place.
where appearance is paramount. Where holding
Specialized materials. Adding stone surfaces or
strength is key, screws are much preferred.
oddly shaped pieces to a project usually requires
Similarly, wood is most often screwed or bolted
a creative approach. That’s where many of the
to other materials in projects that mix and match
small bits and pieces to be found in the aisles
components. Construction adhesive can be used
of a home center come into play. For instance,
in preparation for more thorough fastening, but
flat, slotted angle irons can be used as support
is rarely used alone to attach wood to metal or
brackets in tandem with bolts and wing nuts to
plastic (or vice versa).
hold a piece of a project in place. It all comes
Rubber. Rubber components can be tricky. down to adapting a creative solution to any
Rubber washers and pads can be used in challenge that presents itself.
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SECURING PROJECTS TO A WALL, FLOOR, OR OTHER SURFACE
Some projects are designed to be attached to The most stable wall attachment requires
walls, floors, or both. An example is the Utility finding a stud. Accurately locating studs is
Organizer on page 30, which would be unwieldy an incredibly useful home improvement skill,
and take up much more floor space if not wall especially in this modern age of wall-mounted
mounted. Other projects should be anchored to flat-screen TVs and floating shelves that rely on
the floor or wall to keep them from moving, or solid connections for their integrity.
make them appear built in, as is the case with the To find a stud, you can do the basic “knock”
Media Bar on page 130 and the Hobby Center on test, by rapping on the wall and listening for the
page 124. hollow echo of the cavities in between studs.
THE TOOL AISLE:
STUD FINDER SHOPPING GUIDE
A stud finder is a handy addition to any homeowner’s toolbox, one that requires virtually no skill to use.
prices range from a few dollars to upward of $65. extra cost buys more reliability, accuracy, digital versus
analog performance, and added features.
• Detection. what your stud finder can detect is a product of
how much it costs. Buy a bargain stud finder and you’ll only
be able to detect wooden studs (and sometimes not even
those, reliably). Spend more and you not only increase the
accuracy of the stud finder, you may also be able to find
the center of the stud. The most expensive and full-featured
units offer reliable detection of unshielded wiring and
pipes—as well as determining if pipes are copper or iron.
if you’re going to be using the stud finder a lot, the ability
to detect underlying plumbing and wiring (and avoid any
attendant mishaps) is well worth the additional cost.
• Level. The three types of level offered relate to the price point of the tool and are the following
(from lowest to highest priced): basic bubble level, electronic level, laser level.
• Screen. The most basic stud finders have no readout other than magnetic pointers that indicate you’re
over a nail and a bubble level. More sophisticated options in the middle of the price range will have
a series of Led lights that light up or go out the closer or further you get from the center of the stud.
Models at the high end have Led screens that approximate what is beneath the wall surface—including
differentiating between studs, wires, and pipes.
• Calibration. Mid-level and high-priced stud finders must be calibrated. This is a process through which
the stud finder determines wall thickness and it sets the tool up for success. if your stud finder has a
calibration feature, follow the manufacturer’s instructions exactly to ensure that the stud finder operates
as accurately as possible.
• Extras. The more you spend, the more comfortable the stud finder will be to use. Special grips allow the
finder to be held and slid along the wall more easily. Use your judgment as to whether that matters to you.
Some stud finders include a “marking” slot or channel, which makes marking the location of screws or
hangers especially accurate and easy. Some higher-end units include audible signals that reinforce the
visual readout. Generally speaking, these don’t add much to the actual accuracy and usefulness of the tool.
THe HArdwAre STOre priMer 13
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However, that is an imperfect method that leads to Plastic expansion. These are the simplest,
mistakes more often than not. You can also look cheapest, and weakest anchors. They should be
closely at baseboard or crown molding, to detect used only for lightweight hanging, such as pictures.
marks where the finish nails were puttied over. A hole, slightly smaller than the thickest diameter
That, too, is a rather unreliable method. That’s why of the anchor, is drilled into the wall and the plastic
the best way to locate studs is to head over to the anchor is pushed or tapped into the hole. When
tool department of your local hardware store and a screw is driven into the anchor, it expands the
start shopping for a stud finder. plastic sides, helping them grip the wallboard.
Any stud finder is easy to use (although
Threaded. These look like screws, with oversized
you should always follow the manufacturer’s
threads and long tips. You’ll find both metal and
instructions). Turn the unit on unless it is a basic,
plastic threaded anchors, but do yourself a favor
non-powered model. Calibrate the stud finder
and avoid the plastic (actually, nylon) versions,
if it has a calibration function, then simply move
which tend to collapse or deform under pressure
it slowly side to side on the wall until it registers
and can be difficult to remove. To install a
a stud. Mark the location and move onto the next
threaded anchor, drill a small pilot hole, and then
stud as necessary.
screw the anchor into the wall surface as you
would a screw. Threaded anchors are stronger
Selecting and Using Anchors
than expansion types and are easier to remove.
Sometimes, fastening to a stud just isn’t possible.
In those cases, you’ll turn to the super useful Toggles and winged. Both of these use
hardware store staple: the wall anchor. There are “legs” that open once the anchor is put through
many different kinds, all of which can be grouped wallboard or any wall surface with a cavity
into two basic categories: Expansion anchors and behind it. In the case of toggles, the anchor is
hollow cavity anchors. Expansion anchors rely on pushed through a pre-drilled hole and then the
friction to hold them in place and are—depending legs are spread as the bolt is removed from the
on the type of anchor and wall—somewhat less anchor. Winged anchors don’t have a resident bolt.
secure, reliably holding less weight. Anchors of Instead, they are pushed through a hole and, when
all types are rated for the weight
they can support; those ratings
are generally conservative and Plastic toggle anchor
you should feel confident in
following them. Metal toggle bolt
Plastic
expansion anchor
Heavy-duty
toggle anchor
Toggle bolts
and anchors
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a screw is driven into the anchor, wings at the base
PILOT HOLE DIMENSIONS
spread to hold the anchor in place. These types of
FOR COMMON SCREW SIZES
anchors offer a great deal of holding power but are
#6 3/32"
extremely difficult to remove.
#8 7/64"
Molly bolts. The strongest of anchors, the molly
#10 1/8"
bolt is tapped into a predrilled hole. Once the
#12 5/32"
teeth on the molly have taken hold, the bolt
is backed out expanding the legs of the molly
behind the wall surface and holding the anchor that means the diameter of the shaft without the
tightly in place. Some mollys are meant to be threads. For nails, it means 1/64 inch less than
tapped through a small guide hole (they have a the diameter of the nail.
pointed tip), while others are meant to be driven As you work on different projects or adapt
through a full-sized hole. the designs to create your own, you may need to
drill holes to join pieces at unusual angles, to hide
Perfect Drilling fasteners, or make parts of the design adjustable.
On the surface, drilling looks like one of the Jigs and templates can help you do all those
easiest techniques in the workshop. But there things, and basic types of both can be found in
are a lot of ways basic drilling can go wrong. The most hardware stores. In particular, pocket hole jigs
key is to use the right bit, securely hold the piece (commonly known by the brand name Kreg) can
being drilled, and drill pilot holes in most cases. be a wonderful hardware-store find. Inexpensive and
Pilot holes help guide fasteners and, in the easy to use, these allow you to make a hole and
case of joining two pieces of wood, pilot holes can drive a screw through the face and edge of one
protect against splitting or splintering, and may board at a 45-degree angle, into the face of another
even stop small screw breakage. Predrilling also board or member of another material (joining
prevents small, unseen cracks that can lead to perpendicular surfaces). Pin templates are also
joint failure down the road. As a general rule of useful, allowing you to quickly and accurately drill
thumb, a pilot hole should be about equal to the a grid of holes to, for instance, allow a shelf inside a
fastener’s minor diameter. In the case of a screw, bookcase to be adjusted with dowels or pins.
A – Twist bit (coated)
B – Spur-point bit
C – Brad-point bit
D – Masonry bit
E – Spade bit
F – Ceramic tile bit
G – Twist bit (brass)
H – Twist bit (high-speed steel)
I – Spade bit (metric)
J – Step bit
K – Countersink bit
A B C D E F G H I J K
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THE TOOL AISLE: POWER DRILL SHOPPING GUIDE
Although you can still buy a corded electric power drill, most shoppers opt for a cordless power drill
that offers greater convenience and every bit as much power as corded models. Drill technology has
advanced quite a bit over the years, and manufacturers now pack a lot of power in a lightweight package,
crafting tools that are comfortable to use and get the job done with little fuss or muss. Here are the top
factors to keep in mind when considering a new drill.
• Size. The first consideration in picking a drill that will meet your DIY needs is size. Power drills come
in 1/2", 3/8"—and, far more rarely, 1/4"—sizes. The size simply determines how big a drill bit the drill can
accommodate. The 3/8" drill is the most common size for general home use, although you won’t go
wrong with a 1/2" drill.
• Power. You’ll find cordless drills ranging from 6 volts up to monster units boasting 36 volts. Drills rated
from 12 to 16 volts are the most common for use by homeowners.
• Batteries. You’ll want to select a drill with batteries rated for the longest charge and quickest
charging time, while still being within your budget. Of course, this isn’t a worry if you’re opting for an
old-school corded model.
• Speed. The speed of the drill is rated in rpms, and the faster any drill is, the quicker and more
efficiently it will drill. But, of course, that also means the quicker it will drain the battery. Home-use
drills rated between 500 and 1,500 rpms are the most common. Choose one based on the type of
drilling you anticipate doing; small odd jobs call for a lower rating, but if you’re an avid craftsperson
who tackles complex projects, go high speed.
• Weight. Seem like a non-factor? Wait until you spend the better part of an afternoon drilling joint
holes and cabinet peg holes. A heavy drill can wear your arm out and be unpleasant to use. On the
same note, check out any drill before you buy it, to ensure the grip suits your hand and the balance
seems comfortable to you. Drills last a long, long time and an uncomfortable one will make home
projects a lot less pleasant.
Given how far cordless drill technology has come,
there are certain must-haves you should seriously
consider when shopping for a cordless unit.
• Autoshift feature. This handy option automatically
sets the speed and torque that is best for the
drilling being done, saving battery life, frustration,
and poor results.
• Comprehensive drill package. In addition to the
drill, it’s wise to buy one that comes packaged
with charger, extra battery, a full set of bits, and
a rugged drill carrying case that will hold up to
bouncing around in the back of a pickup or the
occasional drop onto a garage floor.
• Lithium-ion batteries. These are head and
shoulders above any other battery for cordless
drill use.
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Useful Bits Precise Cutting
if you’re tackling projects like the ones in Fabricating projects from different materials
this book, you will inevitably be dealing with inevitably means cutting those materials to suit
assemblies that combine different materials. your needs and the dimensions of the design.
the right drill bit can make all the difference in any hardware store worth its salt offers a range
joining those dissimilar pieces securely of hand and power tools to do the job.
and quickly.
Handsaw. handsaws are inexpensive and easy-
HSS (High-Speed Steel) bits. these not only to-use alternatives to powered saws, but you
make quick work of holes in wood, but they are need to select the right one for the cutting you
also excellent at drilling pVC pipe, other types of intend on doing the most (or buy more than one
formed plastic, fiberglass, and soft metals such to accommodate different situations). You’ll also
as aluminum. titanium-coated hss bits are even have to be prepared for a hefty workout, even on
tougher, creating less friction and staying sharper small projects. rip saws are rough-and-tumble
longer than regular hss bits. options for crude cutting of large pieces. they
move quickly and easily through most wood, but
Cobalt bits. the tough nature of cobalt bits make
tend to leave a very rough edge. they are best
them ideal for drilling even tough metals, like
used to rip with the grain of the wood. Cross-
stainless steel or diamond plate.
cut saws cut across the grain of the wood and
Carbide-tipped bits. although these are some of require more work to make the cut, but also leave
the priciest drill bits, they are also the toughest a smoother, finer cut edge. panel or box saws
and can drill not only wood, but masonry as well. are cross-cut saws meant for finer work (they’re
Step bit. shaped like a terraced cone, these are shorter than standard cross-cut saws). Back
meant specifically for drilling through thin sheets saws have the greatest number of teeth and are
of metal. consequently intended for fine woodworking.
Countersink bits. adding a polished look to any
wood or melamine surface, countersink bits drill Handsaw
both the primary hole and countersink the top
of the hole to allow the fastener head to sit flush
with surface.
Hole saws. these are used to cut large, perfectly
round holes in metal or wood.
TOP TIP Hacksaw. the beauty of a hacksaw when
dealing with different materials is that you can
You can create a simple drill-bit depth gauge by quickly change the blade to suit the material
wrapping the bit with a band of painter’s tape at a
or the type of cutting you need to do. there
point that matches the desired hole depth.
are general hacksaw blades, metal-cutting
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blades, fine woodworking blades, and more. Jigsaw
The downside is that they can take quite a bit of
effort to cut through something like metal, and
the handle design can impede access in certain
cutting situations.
Hacksaw
Reciprocating saw. This monster is the
sledgehammer of saws. A reciprocating saw
can make quick work of any wood or metal
cutting task. This saw is big and powerful, with a
projecting blade that makes its reach impressive.
Circular saw. The word that epitomizes a circular However, reciprocating saws are rarely used for
saw is versatility. Fit with the appropriate blade, fine work, or where the cut line will be sanded
a circular saw can cut wood, metal, and even and visible in the finished project. The truth is, for
masonry. The saw is handheld, which makes it most project work, a reciprocating saw is overkill.
convenient for cutting project materials quickly on
Miter saw. Sometimes called chop saws, miter
site, with little fuss. But used with a jig or guide, a
saws are essentially circular saws mounted on
circular saw can also make the long or fine cuts
a platform. The mount can be adjusted to hold
you’d expect to make on a table saw.
the saw at an predetermined angle for miters
modest to severe. They are fairly portable and are
incredibly handy for small-piece cutting—especially
Circular saw
Miter saw
Jigsaw. Perhaps best known as the go-to tool for
curved cuts, jigsaws can also be used for straight
cuts. However, they won’t be as accurate or
efficient as a circular saw on straight lines, unless
you use a guide and are very careful. Even then,
the cuts can be jagged. Like most other powered
saws, a jigsaw can be fit with a range of blades
available at any well-stocked hardware store,
including those meant for cutting stone, ceramics,
metal, and plastic.
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The type of saw is just one part of the project
fabrication equation. You’ll also need to use the
right blade to achieve the best cut with the least
effort. In general, the number of teeth on any
saw blade will determine how fast and clean
the blade will cut, and what type of cut it will be
capable of making. The more teeth, the finer the
cut, with less splintering or other defects. Rip cut
blades are meant to make rougher cuts along
the length of the wood, and consequently have
fewer teeth. Crosscut blades make finer, less
Table saw
aggressive cuts across the grain of the wood and
will typically have two or more times the number
for mitered joints. However, these are not effective of teeth that a similar rip cut blade would. (All this
for cutting unwieldy pieces, such as a sheet of holds true whether the blade is cutting plastic,
plastic or sheet metal. Any especially wide piece metal, or wood.) Combination blades are a good
may be simply impossible to cut with the saw. compromise and an excellent choice for general
project work because they can rip and crosscut
Table saw. Table saws can be quick and efficient
stock. You can also turn to specialized blades for
at cutting project pieces, especially multiples.
those moments when you need to get through a
A table saw does have its limitations, though.
bit of sheet metal or a cinderblock.
Even small table saws can’t really be considered
Diamond blades, sometimes sold as
portable. Changing blades can be an involved
continuous-cut blades, are a type of circular blade
process for cutting plastic or metal, and some
meant for cutting stone and ceramics. Depending
sheet goods will be difficult to maneuver on the
on the individual blade, it may be intended for dry
table. They are also expensive and require a
work, wet work, or both.
great deal of power.
Turbo blades and segmented blades are
types of diamond blade (with serrated rim and
Choosing a Saw Blade
gulleted rim, respectively). The blades are used
for cutting brick and concrete. Although the
finished cut won’t be as polished, most other
blades would have a hard time making it through
these materials.
Like diamond blades, abrasive blades have
a continuous rim rather than individual teeth. The
rim is coated with a specialized cutting medium—
usually aluminum oxide or silicone carbide—that
make these ideal for cutting through metals.
Making the Cut
Regardless of the saw and blades you choose,
The number and shape of teeth on a saw blade
determine how fine and fast a cut it can make.
you’ll want to make the cleanest cut possible.
That starts with precise cut-line marking. The
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CUTTING A-ROUND
depending on the hardware store project you’re tackling (or have designed yourself), you may have to cut
unusual shapes, such as square or round tubes. Here’s an easy way to accurately mark and make clean
cuts on continuous shapes like pipe and tubing.
What You Need:
⊲ Pipe
⊲ Measuring tape
⊲ Non-permanent marker or grease pencil
⊲ Strip of stiff cardboard
⊲ Masking tape
1. Cut a strip of stiff cardboard from a box (the cardboard should be flexible enough to bend into a circle
without crimping). the strip should be significantly longer than the diameter of the pipe you’re cutting.
make sure that at least one edge of the cardboard is perfectly straight.
2. Wrap the cardboard around the pipe, lining up the straight edge with the cut mark. overlap the
cardboard as much as necessary to make a tight fit. Secure it in place with masking tape.
3. use a marker or grease pencil to extend the cut mark all the way around the pipe. make sure the mark is
clearly visible and then remove the cardboard. make the cut with a saw, following the cut mark.
• Alternative: if you would like to both mark the tube and create a cutting guide for a circular saw, create a
collar from thick cardboard. mark the cut line as described above, then slide the collar further down the
tube to exactly the distance that matches the shoe of your circular saw. tape the collar in place securely
and it will function as a guide for the circular saw cut.
clearer the cut line, the more likely you’ll follow be visible in the completed construction. you can
it precisely. use a straightedge and a marker also use a hacksaw, although the dimensions of
that will visually stand out against the surface of the hacksaw limit the depth of material to which it
whatever material you’re cutting. can follow a cut line. in any case, always smooth
Prevent splintering or other defects when the cut edge because it will inevitably be sharp
cutting wood or concrete by laying down a strip enough to cause injury. a file is a great way to
of painter’s tape along the proposed cut. mark round over a cut metal edge.
the cut line on top of the tape, and score the cut expanded sheet is a handy material that can
line with a utility knife. Saw right through the tape be a challenge to cut. although you can use snips
and the score line for an extremely clean cut. of one sort or another, a right-angle grinder with
a thin blade will make short work of an expanded
Cutting Metal sheet cut.
although you can use a jigsaw or table saw Plumbing pipe, like the pipe used in the
equipped with a metal-cutting blade, it is often utility organizer on page 30, is traditionally cut
quicker to cut thin metal like sheet metal with tin with a snap cutter, a plumbing tool that makes
or sheet metal snips, especially if the edge won’t accurate, clean cuts in any pipe. the problem
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is, snap cutters can be expensive. Most home
DIYers rent snap cutters when necessary. Many
people, however, use reciprocating saws with
a diamond blade in place of a snap cutter. A
powerful reciprocating saw can cut quickly
through pipe, but it can be hard to control, leaving
a slightly uneven cut line. If you feel comfortable
handling an angle grinder, use a diamond blade
to cut quickly through even thick plumbing
pipe (although it can be hard to see the cut line
clearly, so you need a good sense of how to cut
straight). Hacksaws provide exceptional control,
Tin snips are the simplest—and often the most
but translate to a lot of time, effort, and expense, efficient—way to cut sheet metal.
because you’ll most likely have to change blades
before you’re done with even a single pipe cut.
Choose the method that works best for you, your Whenever you’re installing a project, such
time, your effort, and your budget. as the Closet Home Office on page 111, it’s
essential to accurately measure the space
Precise Measuring where the project will be installed, to identify
No matter what material the project calls for, stud location and ensure the finished project will
correct measurements are going to be key to fit appropriately. Although you can do this fairly
how good the completed construction looks, effectively with a tape measure and stud finder,
and how stable and usable it is. Many of the a laser measurer offers a way to make extremely
projects in this book, or any built-in project you precise measurements easily and quickly. These
tackle, will involve two types of measurement: the handy instruments also allow you to measure
dimensions of the project itself and measuring
the space into which it will be installed.
Although you can follow the directions NOMINAL LUMBER SIZE
and measurements for any project in the book VS. ACTUAL SIZE
exactly as they’re given, you may want to adapt 1 × 2" 3/4 × 11/2"
the design of a project like the Custom Laundry
1 × 3" 3/4 × 21/2"
Center on page 114 to your own preferences or
spaces. Be careful when you customize a project; 1 × 4" 3/4 × 31/2"
measurements such as lumber and pipes are not 1 × 6" 3/4 × 51/2"
always what they seem—or what they are labeled.
1 × 8" 3/4 × 71/4"
A standard modern 2 x 4 is not actually 2 inches
by 4 inches, while a 2-inch pipe will actually have 2 × 2" 11/2 × 11/2"
an outside diameter larger than 2 inches. 2 × 3" 11/2 × 21/2"
The secret to altering any project’s dimensions
is to never change one part or element of the 2 × 4" 11/2 × 31/2"
project in isolation. There is typically a domino 2 × 6" 11/2 × 51/2"
effect to any change, so you should look at the
2 × 8" 11/2 × 71/4"
entire project when altering any measurement.
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areas that may be difficult to measure because of
access. Laser measurers range in price from $20
to well over $100, with higher prices indicating
more exacting accuracy, durability, and added
functionality (such as stud finding, wire detection,
or greater range).
GAUGE THICKNESSES (INCHES)
GAUGE METAL ALUMINUM
3 0.2391 0.2294
A laser measurer gives extremely accurate
4 0.2242 0.2043 readings for locating your project.
5 0.2092 0.1819
6 0.1943 0.1620 sophisticated edge profile on wood and metal.
7 0.1793 0.1443 Router bits are available for wood, plastic, and
metal cutting, adding to the versatility of the
8 0.1644 0.1285
tool. Use a router with a jig and you can create
9 0.1495 0.1144 elaborate designs in a wood panel.
10 0.1345 0.1019
Finishing Your Project
11 0.1196 0.0907 Some of the projects in this book, and indeed,
many projects created with readymade structures
12 0.1046 0.0808
will not need to be painted or stained because
13 0.0897 0.0720 the raw materials in their natural state may
14 0.0747 0.0641 present the look you want. For instance, if you
build a Crown Molding Shelf (page 138), the shelf
15 0.0673 0.0571 may not need finishing to fit right in.
16 0.0598 0.0508 In other cases, you’ll want to cover up the
natural state of the materials you use. That
17 0.0538 0.0453
will involve using paint, stain, or a clear finish,
18 0.0478 0.0403 depending on the material. No matter what,
though, you’ll most likely have to do some
19 0.0359 0.0320
amount of sanding or smoothing before finishing
20 0.0359 0.0320 your creation.
Routing Super Sanding
Although most novice and intermediate home Picking the right sandpaper is key to prepping the
DIYers don’t own routers, it’s a tool worth surface of whatever materials you’ve used in the
considering—especially for project work. Routers project. You’ll find sandpaper in many different
let you easily add grooves into edges and formats to suit different power sanders and hand
faces of project pieces, and allow to you put a sanding applications. These include plain sheets,
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self-adhesive pads (round and rectangular),
precut forms, and even belts. Start your finishing
by selecting the right tool.
You’ll never go wrong sanding by hand.
Although it can require a lot more elbow grease,
hand sanding also affords you a much greater
degree of control. Use a palm or orbital sander
for small and medium jobs (either would be
appropriate for all the projects in this book). These
come with round, square, and pointed pads and
allow you to see the surface as you work. Bigger
sheet sanders work more quickly and are usually
more powerful. Belt sanders use a closed loop
of sandpaper and work very quickly, even with
fine-grit papers. That means that they can sand a
large area quickly, but errors and oversanding can A downdraft sanding box directs air through a
happen in the blink of an eye. pegboard top into a shop vacuum and keeps
airborne dust from sanding under control.
Aside from the sander itself, the paper—and
especially the type of abrasive you choose—will
be dictated by what you need to sand.
Emery. Also a natural material, emery is used for
Garnet. This is the traditional natural material metal. Coarser grits can quickly remove rust and
used on the most common sandpapers. It wears even residual paint and markings, while finer grits
off quickly, but is a good choice for a range can be used to polish the surface so that it can be
of materials. left natural.
SANDING GRITS
GAUGE APPLICATION
These are the coarsest grits and consequently used for the crudest
40–60 sanding, such as roughing up a surface to be smoothed in degrees,
removing prior finishes, or shaping plastics or wood.
This range accounts for most of the general prep work done, such as
60–100 giving wood or metal a tooth prior to painting, or sanding between coats
of a finish.
This is considered superfine sandpaper meant for finishing work and
sanding out minor imperfections in a finish; at the upper end, superfine
papers are meant for polishing metal surfaces or working on extremely
100–220
glossy or high-end finishes on wood. Grits above 220 are exceedingly
fine, and those papers are meant for specialized applications, such as
polishing fine-machined parts.
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Aluminum oxide. This common synthetic is an surface slightly with 80-grit sandpaper. In the case
excellent all-purpose sanding medium that lasts of metal pipe or plastic sheet goods, you’ll need
appreciably longer than garnet. It can be used to rough up the surface to create any tooth at all.
equally well on wood, metal, and plastics. It is
The right stuff. Key to a great finish on any
most often used with power sanders.
material is using a product meant for that material.
Silicon carbide. Want to get the job done quickly For instance, only a couple of paints are meant
even if the paper doesn’t last as long? Turn to specifically for plastic; other types of paint
this excellent abrasive. Often used in wet sanding might look good right after application, but they
applications, silicon carbide is especially good at will begin to crack and flake off in short order.
rough work—removing paint and rust or roughing Metal also requires specific paints meant for the
up a surface between coats of a finish. It is material, and certain metals may not take paint
excellent on wood, metal, and plastic. at all. In most cases, it pays to prime the surface
before painting (unless you’re applying a stain or
Zirconia alumina. This is a more modern
clear finish). Manufacturers’ labels clearly spell out
abrasive that is highly effective and lasts even
what materials the product is meant to be used
longer than aluminum oxide. It is primarily used
on. That’s one of the reasons reading paint and
for power sander pads and belts and is efficient
finish labels before applying them is a must.
at removing rust and paint. It works on metal,
wood, and plastics—including troublesome
surfaces such as fiberglass. Special Section: Safety First!
Every aisle in a home center is an unbridled
Ceramic alumina. This is a less-common abrasive opportunity to discover and build fun and useful
that offers all the advantages of zirconia alumina creations. But many of those aisles, and the
and is primarily used in sanding discs and belts. tools and materials they contain, also offer some
level of risk if used improperly. That’s why work
The keys to a good finish application,
safety should always be the first consideration
regardless of the product you’re using or the
when you tackle a new project. The most basic
sanding you’ve done, are the following:
expectation you should have for any project you
Cleanliness. Any dirt, grease, or debris can build is to come away from the process uninjured,
prevent paint from properly adhering to the with a creation that won’t harm anybody else. The
surface of metal, wood, plastic, or veneers. Not guidelines below will ensure that happens.
only should you make sure that obvious dirt
and grime are removed from the surface to be Dress for Success
painted, you should also take steps to remove Your workshop is no place for high fashion. Wear
contaminants that may be hard to see. That’s why the right gear any time you work on a project and
it’s a good idea to clean smooth surfaces such as you’ll not only make yourself more comfortable,
plastic, or prefinished wood, with glass cleaner. you’ll head off nagging minor injuries, avoid major
problems like a snagged loose piece of clothing,
Tooth. Any surface you’re finishing should be
and perhaps even prevent long-term damage
slightly—although not too much—rough. This is
such as hearing loss.
called having a “tooth” and allows whatever finish
you apply to adhere tightly to the surface. In the Gloves. Good work gloves are worth their weight
case of rougher wood surfaces, providing the in gold. However, there are many different types
appropriate tooth may mean smoothing out the of work gloves, and it’s wise to buy specific
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gloves for different activities. For instance, a home workshop. Look for a sturdy frame and
combination neoprene-cotton glove would be polycarbonate lenses with side shields. Check
great for gardening, but not so much for general the label; glasses rated for impact resistance (as
workshop project building. If you’re going to be opposed to simple protection against splashes
handling sharp tools or cutting metal, get yourself and dust) carry a “+” after the manufacturer’s
some cut-proof metal mesh gloves. For general name. Find a pair that’s comfortable, so keeping
workshop use, consider a high-quality leather them on won’t be bothersome.
glove, with reinforced palm and fingers and some
Ear protection. Studies increasingly show that
sort of lining. They’ll not only be comfortable, but
hearing loss can occur after what could easily
they’ll provide a lot protection from small nicks
be considered minimal exposure to loud noises.
and bruises.
If you’re running a table saw or other power
Eye safety. Eyes are fragile organs. Even small equipment on a regular basis—especially inside
damage or irritation can cause big problems. the confines of a garage or home workshop—
That’s why a good pair of safety glasses is you should invest in some quality ear protection.
a must for anyone looking to stay busy in a Basic earbuds or earplugs offer some protection,
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but if your hearing really matters to you, it’s once.” To prevent any injuries or accidents,
wise to invest a little more in earmuffs specially follow these guidelines:
designed for construction and landscape work.
Never . . .
Dust masks and respirators. One of the most • remove power tool guards, or force them out of
common mistakes home DIYers make when it position. Sure, safety guards on tools such as
comes to safety is using a dust mask where circular saws can get in the way and slow you
a respirator is needed. Simple dust masks are down. But they can also save your fingers and
great if you’re sanding or otherwise raising a limbs from serious injury.
dust cloud. But for vapors or fumes from solvent • overtighten blade-locking nuts on saws.
or petroleum-based finishes, you need a dual- • change blades or other power tool parts when
cartridge respirator, with cartridges rated for use the tool is plugged in.
with the material you’re using. • cut or drill when off balance. If you have to
lean out over a project to secure or saw a
Clothing. Any time you’re working with power
piece, adjust where you’re standing or how the
tools or manipulating unwieldy or heavy materials,
project is positioned.
the proper attire can head off injury and make
• carry a power tool by its cord.
you more comfortable and productive. Whenever
• carry tools up a ladder by the handle. Bring
possible, wear snug-fitting long-sleeve shirts,
them up in a bucket.
which will protect your arms against abrasions
• expose tools to severe temperature extremes
and ensure no dangling clothing gets entangled
on a regular basis. Wildly varying temperatures
in the moving parts of tools or snagged on sharp
are a great way to ensure malfunction and
corners of materials. Similarly, long pants are
possibly breakage in your tools. If that happens
usually better than shorts, and snug-fitting long
while you’re using one, there’s a good chance
pants are a much better choice than sweats
of injury.
or other baggy clothing. Good work shoes or
boots are a must, to keep you steady when Always . . .
maneuvering heavy materials and to protect your • read the manufacturers’ instructions. Part of
feet. Sandals, flip-flops, or open-toed footwear the allure of a hardware store or home center
of any kind are not appropriate for working is all those bright, shiny new tools and the
on hardware home projects. Lastly, leave your possibilities they offer. There is an almost
jewelry, including watches, in the jewelry box; irresistible compulsion to start playing with your
the potential for snagging is just too great. new toy the moment you get home. Fight that
compulsion. Manufacturers uniformly provide
Best Practices concise instructions for the safe and sane
Most safety practices are a matter of basic operation of their tools. That’s advice from
common sense. However, many serious experts that you can only follow if you actually
workshop accidents occur because someone read it. It only takes a few minutes to read
decided to take a shortcut or do something through (not “scan”) the material, warnings, and
that flies in the face of commonsense, “just this instructions manufacturers provide with their
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tools. That is some of the most valuable time • lift with the knees. Some of the materials in the
you’ll spend in the workshop. projects in this book (like prefab cabinets) can
• unplug tools and power equipment when not be weighty, unwieldy, or both. Back injuries are
in use. Not only are power cords and extension some of the most common home workshop
cords tripping hazards, it’s far too easy to injuries and most are preventable. Don’t bend
trigger a power tool when moving it around or over to lift; squat instead. And enlist the aid of a
bumping it if it is plugged in. The best way to helper before you think you’ll actually need it.
make sure power tools are off is to ensure they • keep tools sharp. An old construction-site piece
are unplugged. of wisdom is that you’ll get hurt quicker by a dull
• doublecheck that the power cord for any edge than a sharp one. If you don’t know how
power tool is nowhere near the cut line when to properly sharpen your own tools, the local
beginning to saw. hardware store will most likely sharpen them
• stage. Setting out tools, equipment, and supplies for a very modest fee. In either case, make tool
in a logical, clear and tidy way, is a surefire way sharpening a semi-annual routine.
to guarantee success on any project and avoid • keep a first-aid kit on hand. Fortunately, any well-
injury from tools or materials just lying around in stocked hardware store—and every large home
your path of travel. Get in the habit—for projects center—sells complete first-aid kits, so you don’t
small and large—of setting aside a clearly need to assemble one yourself. Just buy it, take
demarcated, level surface large enough to it home, and place it somewhere in your work
organize everything you’ll need for the project. area, where it is clearly visible and accessible.
RUNG UP
Although many of the projects in this book do not require a ladder, no discussion of workshop safety is
complete without touching on the issue of proper ladder use. You should always check any ladder before
you use it; look for areas of rust or broken parts. Never use a damaged ladder. In addition, ladders sold by
hardware stores have a “duty rating”; your weight and the weight of materials and tools on the ladder at any
one time should never exceed this rating. You should also follow the “three point rule” whenever you climb
a ladder: at least three limbs should always be in contact with the ladder at all times. More general safety
guidelines are specific to the two basic types of ladders.
• Stepladders. Don’t step on the top step (called the “cap” step) and don’t use the ladder as an extension
ladder when folded up. Always be sure the spreaders are locked when using the ladder.
• Extension ladders. Although all ladders require a stable base, it is especially important on the greater
heights of an extension ladder; any wobbling or unsteadiness translates to a risky situation. When
setting an extension ladder, position it so that the ladder is one foot out from the wall for every four feet
of ladder height. Tie off the top of the ladder to prevent the ladder from falling backward, and secure
the feet—ideally with a cleat.
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Creative
Reinventions
T he very best storage, furniture, and home design accent options are the ones you can customize
for your own space. Building a project to suit allows you to make it look like the rest of your
interior, fit exactly the space you’ve allocated, and capture your style precisely. That’s the beauty of the
projects in this section. Well, that and their actual beauty.
Although they all look sharp, the projects in this section range from the practical and utilitarian to
the nearly whimsical. There really is something for everyone here. The harried mother of three will find
a handy way to keep things tidy with the Utility Organizer, while the wine lover will enjoy outfitting his
kitchen with the super cool Countertop Wine Rack. In every case, the addition will add style to the home.
As you might expect if you’ve made it this far in the book, these also represent a variety of skills.
The projects in this section will give you a wealth of experience working with different materials, from
forming copper pipe into wonderfully eye-catching creations to using standard lumber in surprisingly
innovative ways.
Although you may be thinking just in terms of practicality and what you can achieve, this is your
chance to challenge yourself a bit. Pick a project that will allow you to learn a new skill or technique,
or a new way of working with a material you’re entirely familiar with. You can select something for
your home, but also keep an eye out for projects that would make good big-occasion, one-of-a-
kind presents. Regardless of the project to choose for your next weekend foray, you’ll find that one
common element runs throughout all of the offerings in this section: fun. Using building materials and
hardware store finds in unexpected ways is just a blast. And that may be the best benefit of all.
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IN THIS SECTION:
Utility Organizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Trim-and-Rope Mat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Copper Pipe Pot Rack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Countertop Wine Rack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Tasting Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Rolling Bar Cart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Chunky Club Chair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Maple Molding Room Divider . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
Aluminum Sheet Lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
Bedroom or Entryway Bench . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Living Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Plant Stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Five-Gallon Planter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Message Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
Birdhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
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Utility Organizer
In real life, it’s not the formal entryway that homeowners worry about. Any space worthy of the
title “foyer” pretty much takes care of itself. People politely wipe their feet and come in and out
without much fuss, and there’s usually a spacious closet that is more than capable of containing
any outerwear that might find its way into the house. But the mudroom and other utility spaces?
Not so much.
M udrooms are typically chaotic. They are traditionally back or side entrances that are used much more
frequently than a formal front entrance. They earn their name. The room sees tons of traffic and is
often ill-equipped to handle that traffic—too small, too little storage, and no space to sit. This can often be
the busiest territory in the house and, consequently, it’s often the most cluttered and dirtiest space.
It doesn’t have to be that way, though. A well-thought-out, well-built organizer can put the whole
space right again. It can also be used in just about any utility area, from a workshop to a home office,
to help keep things tidy.
The right piece of furniture for the space will be tough as nails, able to withstand the rough and
tumble treatment of kids piling in and out of the house. It should also be cleanable, easy to install,
and—whenever possible—look sharp. The ideal all-in-one organizer will be a multipurpose piece of
furniture. Not only should it keep jackets and other outerwear organized and off the floor, it should
have some shelf space for odds and ends like gloves and hats. The best structure will even include
a place to sit and pull off galoshes, or set down those awkward bags of groceries or packages you’ve
just retrieved from the post office.
That’s exactly how this unit was designed. This simple, three-section framework can be built from
just about any sturdy sheet good and can easily be customized to meet your needs, tastes, and décor.
Accent the structure with prefab corner shelves, a memory-foam bathmat for the seat, decorative
hooks, or other readymade touches that will make it all your own.
WHAT YOU NEED:
MATERIALS
⊲ (1) 3/4" × 4 x 8' sheet plywood ⊲ (4) 3" steel L brackets
⊲ (2) 1/4 × 3/4 × 96" finger jointed pine screen molding ⊲ 3 coat hooks
⊲ 2" self-tapping wood screws ⊲ Wood glue
⊲ 3" wood screws ⊲ Masking tape or painter’s tape
⊲ (3) 36" × 2"-dia. black iron pipe ⊲ Primer and paint, or stain (optional)
⊲ (6) 2" black iron flanges
TOOLS
⊲ Circular saw ⊲ Long metal straightedge
⊲ Stud finder ⊲ C-clamps or bar clamps
⊲ Power drill and bits ⊲ Utility knife (optional)
⊲ Torpedo level ⊲ Palm sander and sandpaper (optional)
⊲ 4 level ⊲ Paintbrush (optional)
⊲ Carpenter’s pencil ⊲ Eye and ear protection
⊲ Measuring tape ⊲ Work gloves
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UTILITY ORGANIZER CUT LIST
KEY QTY PART NAME DIMENSION MATERIAL
A 1 Seat 3/4 × 177/8 × 291/4" Plywood
B 1 Leg 3/4 × 17 7/8 × 15" Plywood
C 1 Divider 3/4 × 185/8 × 78" Plywood
D 1 Backer 3/4 × 291/4 × 78" Plywood
E 3 Rods 2"-dia. × 30" Black pipe
F 1 Divider edge trim 3/4 × 78" Pine
G 1 Backer edge trim 3/4 × 78" Pine
H 1 Seat-front edge trim 3/4 × 30" Pine
I 1 Seat-side edge trim 3/4 × 177/8" Pine
J 1 Leg edge trim 3/4 × 15" Pine
F G
D
E
C
A
I
E
J
H B
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How to Build a Utility Organizer
STEP 1: Measure and mark the plywood sheet
1
for the cuts to make the backer, divider, seat and
leg. Use a circular saw fitted with a fine-toothed
crosscut blade or similar, and a guide clamped
across the sheet. Cover the cut line with masking
tape, to avoid splintering. NOTE: When cutting
with the circular saw, mark and cut the plywood
on the back (bad-looking) side so that the cut line
on the finish side will be cleaner. You can also
score the cut lines lightly before cutting, which
will help prevent splintering.
STEP 2: Cut the plywood sheet along the cut lines, top section first. Make sure the plywood is adequately
supported on sawhorses or on a level, stable work surface.
STEP 3: Lightly sand the cut edges as necessary to clean them up. Have the hardware store cut the plumbing
pipe into three equal sections and thread each end of each pipe. Clean the newly cut threads and screw a flange
onto each end of each pipe section. Adjust the flanges so each section is exactly the same length.
STEP 4: Clamp the back panel to a clean, level work surface. Coat one long edge in wood glue and hold the
divider in place, perpendicular to the edge of the back. Measure and mark screw holes down one long edge of
the divider. The holes should be spaced evenly every 4" down the edge, with each hole 3/8" in from the edge.
STEP 5: Clamp the backer on the work table, placing wax paper under the edge where it will be joined to the
divider. Spread glue along this edge, then set the divider in position, aligning it with the edge of the backer.
Fasten the divider to the backer with four 2" self-tapping wood screws.
5
Divider
Backer
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8
STEP 6: Position the unit in the final location. Check
9
that the bars and flanges fit between the divider and the
corner wall of the space. Mark the final location of the
wood section with key marks on the wall. NOTE: You
can tighten or loosen the plumbing flanges to help the
bars fit in place, even if the corner wall is not plumb.
STEP 7: Move the wood section and use a stud finder
to locate the studs behind where the backer will be
attached to the wall. Mark their locations higher than
the top of the backer.
STEP 8: Replace the wood section and line it up to
the key marks. Position the top hanger rod centered
side to side on the divider and about 2" down from
the top of the divider and screw the pipe flange to the
10
divider. Check that the bar is level, and mark the screw
holes for the flanges on the opposite wall. (Install
anchors, if the bar doesn’t sit over a stud.) Screw the
rod flanges to the wall.
STEP 9: Repeat the process with the two lower shoe
rack rods, which should be positioned 8" up from the
bottom and 5" in from each edge.
STEP 10: Use a level to line up the stud marks on the
backer, and mark locations for screws spaced at
the top, middle, and bottom of the backer. Screw the
backer to the wall with 3" wood screws every 6 to 8"
down the back, along the studs.
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STEP 11: Position one end of the seat on top of the
11
leg, and use a level to position it against the inside
face of the divider and the back. Mark the location
for the L brackets and remove the seat. Screw the
brackets to the divider and then screw the brackets
to the seat.
STEP 12: Drill pilot holes down through the top of
the seat into the edge of the leg, and screw the seat
to the leg.
STEP 13: Lightly sand any edges that might pose a
problem on the seat or divider. Finish the exposed
edges of the backer, divider, leg and seat with screen
molding. Drill pilot holes every 3 to 4" along the
molding’s length and use finish nails to fasten it in
13 place along the edges.
STEP 14: Prime and paint, or finish the organizer as
desired. Measure and mark the placement of the coat
hooks on the organizer’s back (this project includes
three, but you can add more as desired). Screw the
hooks in place. Add readymade items such as a
memory foam bath mat for the seat or prefab corner
shelves to add more storage.
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Trim-and-Rope Mat
Will Rogers is credited with saying, “You never get a second
chance to make a first impression.” Nowhere is that more true
than at the front door of your house. Your doorstep is where
many visitors are going to form their opinions about the look
and style of the house—for better or worse—so why not add a
cool decorative (and functional) element that provides a bit of
hip to the whole look?
T his mat is not big, but it helps enormously with that first
impression. It’s a very basic construction that is a simple and
informal in style. It can be decorated to stand out or colored
in subdued tones to blend in. The design combinations are nearly
unlimited, because the paracord in the project comes in a range
of colors (including some striped styles) and the PVC slats can be
colored in several different tones.
Keep in mind that you can alter the basic design to suit your
own circumstances. You may want to cut the boards longer, or use
more of them to craft a bigger mat for a space like the step outside
a busy back door. The surface is nonslip, so this can serve as
bathmat (although the mat itself may slip on slick surfaces). In any
case, the only potentially challenging part of the project is edge
drilling the boards. This process will be much easier, go quicker,
and be less prone to errors if you use an edge-drilling jig to guide
the drill bit.
WHAT YOU NEED:
MATERIALS TOOLS
⊲ (2) 1 × 2" × 8' exterior PVC trim ⊲ Chop saw or table saw
⊲ Carpenter’s pencil or ⊲ Carpenter’s square
non-permanent marker ⊲ Palm sander
⊲ 100-grit sandpaper (optional) ⊲ Edge-drilling jig (optional)
⊲ Masking tape ⊲ Power drill and bits
⊲ 5/32" paracord ⊲ Scissors
⊲ (18) 1/2 × 1/2" rubber flat washers ⊲ Eye and ear protection
⊲ Work gloves
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How to Build a trim-and-Rope mat
1
STEP 1: Use a chop saw or table saw to
2
cut the PVC trim down into ten 23/8 × 18"
slats. Use a cutting guide or stop block
so the slats for the mat are all exactly the
same length.
STEP 2: Use a carpenter’s square to
stack the slats on edge, perfectly aligned
with one another. Measure in from one end
4" and mark all the slat edges for the 1/4"
rope hole. Repeat at the opposite end of
the stakes.
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3 4
STEP 3: Secure a slat in a vise (or clamped to the work surface) with the marked edge up. If you’re using an edge-
drilling jig, position it over one mark and drill a 1/4" hole all the way through the width of the slat. Repeat at the mark
on the opposite end. Drill all the slats in the same way.
STEP 4: Lay out the slats side by side on a flat, level work surface. Wrap the end of the paracord (or rope, if you’ve
opted for that option) with masking tape and guide it through the holes on one end of each stake, weaving the cord
through a rubber washer between each stake. Tie the end into a square knot and cut the tail off the knot. Cut the
cord on the opposite side, leaving enough cord for a knot, and tie the knot. Repeat the process with the holes at
the opposite ends of the stakes. NOTE: If you’re concerned about the knots coming untied over time, you can melt
the knots slightly with a lighter (although don’t attempt this if you’re using sisal rope or other natural fiber).
COLORING PVC TRIM
The PVC trim used here is white and, like all PVC,
the color runs throughout the material. So you can
cut PVC trim and not have to worry about coloring
the ends as you would with other prefinished trim
boards. However, PVC comes in a limited number
of colors—often only white. That means if you want
a custom look, you’ll need to color the PVC. Plastic
spray paint will bond and comes in a wide array of
colors, but eventually it may flake off of the PVC
surfaces. For more permanent color, follow this
hack. add a small amount of aniline dye (available
at craft stores, woodworking stores, and online)
to PVC primer. Start with a couple of drops and
add until you achieve the color you want. Brush
this solution on the PVC trim and let it dry. The
chemicals in the primer dissolve the surface of the PVC temporarily so it can absorb the dye. Because the
color change is a chemical reaction rather than an applied layer, it will hold up better underfoot.
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Copper Pipe Pot Rack
Pot racks are that ideal combination of distinctive decorative hallmark and super functional
organizational feature. A rack like this one announces that the space is a cook’s kitchen. It
also keeps the cookware you use most frequently conveniently right at hand. You can certainly
purchase any number of pot racks at retail, but why bother, when a more compelling and
inexpensive rack awaits you down a few aisles of the hardware store?
C opper pipe is the perfect choice for a pot rack. Strong enough to hold a significant number of
heavy pans, it is also soft enough to be easily manipulated into the dimensions and shape that
best suits your kitchen. The appearance is a natural for any kitchen, because copper has a warm
and inviting look.
Although it may seem daunting
to craft a structural element from
pipe, never fear; working with copper
pipe doesn’t require a lot of technical
expertise. The key concerns are to
make secure, stable connections, and
affix the rack to the joists so that it won’t
move under a load. However, if you
prefer a swinging rack, you can always
forgo the post connections in these
instructions and mount the rack by
screwing substantial eye bolts into the
ceiling joists and hanging the rack by
chains and S hooks.
WHAT YOU NEED:
MATERIALS
⊲ 14' × 1" copper tubing ⊲ Solder
⊲ (8) 1" copper tees ⊲ Soldering flux
⊲ (4) 1" copper elbows ⊲ 000 steel wool
⊲ (4) 1" cast-iron flanges ⊲ (4) 1/2" self-tapping metal screws
⊲ (4) 1" threaded male copper adapters ⊲ (16) #8 wood screws
TOOLS
⊲ Measuring tape ⊲ Flux brush
⊲ Marker ⊲ Speed square
⊲ Tubing cutter ⊲ Power drill and bits
⊲ Fitting brush ⊲ Heatproof work gloves
⊲ Soldering iron or torch ⊲ Eye and ear protection
COPPER PIPE POT RACK 41
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How to Build a Copper Pipe Pot Rack
STEP 1: Spread the pieces you’ll use for the rack on a flat, level work surface. Mark the tubing for cutting, as
follows: 4 ends at 93/4"; 8 sides at 81/4"; 2 cross braces at 20"; and 4 posts at 12" (or a different length depending on
how high or low you want the rack to hang—which will be affected by the types of pans you want to hang and the
height of the users).
STEP 2: Cut all the pipe sections, using a tubing cutter.
Set the pipe in the cutter so that the cutting wheel
2
is aligned with the marked cut line. Screw the clamp
down to tighten the wheel on the pipe and begin
rotating the cutter around the pipe.
STEP 3: Burnish the cut ends of the pipe sections with
000 steel wool, and burnish the inside of all the fittings
with a fitting brush.
STEP 4: Apply flux around the end of one end section.
(The surface must be absolutely clean before you
start.) Use the flux brush to spread flux liberally around
3
the pipe end. Slide the pipe into one side of a tee,
making sure the two pieces are fully engaged. Heat
the soldering iron or light the torch to a blue flame and
begin sweating the joint. Move the flame along the
joint, back and forth, until it is completely heated, about
30 seconds.
STEP 5: Touch the solder to the pipe. It should
melt on contact. Apply the solder evenly to create a Fitting brush
uniform bead all the way around the joint. Touch up the
soldered joint as necessary, but don’t touch the pipe
with your bare hands until it has fully cooled. Once the
5
pipe has cooled, burnish the joint with 000 steel wool.
STEP 6: Repeat the process to solder another end
section into the opposite side of the tee. Dry fit two
elbows to the open ends of the end sections. Working
on a flat, level work surface, use a speed square to
ensure the open inlet of the tee is perfectly vertical,
and that the elbows are perpendicular to the tee. Make
key marks on the elbows, remove them, and then flux
and solder them in place with the key marks aligned.
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STEP 7: Form the sides in the same fashion, soldering
10
the side sections into tees, so that two outside tees are
perpendicular to the center tee on each side. Solder
one side assembly into an elbow of each end, so that
the center tee is perfectly vertical, matching the end
center tee.
STEP 8: Solder the two cross braces into the tees on the
side that has been soldered to the ends. Finally, solder the Post
opposite side into the elbows and onto the cross braces,
with the center tee pointing perfectly vertical.
Adapter
STEP 9: With the aid of a helper, hold the rack in place Flange
where you intend to position it. Raise or lower the rack
to the optimum height and adjust the length of the
posts as necessary. 11
STEP 10: Solder the posts into the vertical center
tees on the ends and sides of the rack frame. Screw
copper male-threaded adapters into the flanges, and
screw the opposite ends of the adapters to the top of
the posts.
STEP 11: Hold the rack up in the mounting location and
mark the flange screw holes on the ceiling along ceiling
joists. Drill pilot holes and hang the rack by screwing
four wood screws through the flange holes and up
into the joists.
COOL COPPER LOOKS
Right after you complete this rack, the copper
surface will look as bright and shiny as a new
penny. But a few months later, after exposure to
moisture, airborne grease, oils from your hand, and
other contaminants, the surface may look dull and
dark. That may suit you—and your kitchen’s design
scheme—just fine. But if it doesn’t you can protect
and preserve the “like new” look of your copper
pot rack by applying a polishing sealer on the
surface before you hang it. The sealer will protect
the surface over time (although not forever—you’ll
need to reapply it regularly if you want to keep the
surface looking its best). There are many products available and most can be found at—you guessed it—
your local hardware store or home center. Just follow the simple instructions on the can or bottle and enjoy
a sparkling look for a long time to come.
COPPER PIPE POT RACK 43
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Countertop Wine Rack
A stroll down the lumber aisle offers an amazing number of possibilities, but the some of the best
uses for good wood are the simplest. This basic, handsome wine rack is an example of what can
be accomplished with a little wood, time, some modest effort, and a few tools.
A lthough premilled hardwood is specified for this project, you can just as easily use precut
hardwood or softwood shelves, as long as they are the right dimensions. Your choice of stain or
finish will determine how well the rack complements existing cabinetry and accents in the kitchen—or
wherever you decide to place the rack.
The rack as designed accommodates eight wine bottles—from basic red wine to the more
uniquely shaped champagne bottles. If you love the rack but find that you want to store and display a
large collection of bottles, you can always make a second rack. Sit it next to the first, or drill small holes
in the top edge of the ends of one, and matching holes in the bottom of the feet in the second, and pin
one on top of the other with skinny dowels.
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WHAT YOU NEED
MATERIALS
⊲ Transfer paper ⊲ Clear finish or stain
⊲ #8 × 1 1/4" wood screws ⊲ 1 × 10 × 24" birch (or similar)
⊲ Wood glue ⊲ 1 × 6 × 48" birch (or similar)
⊲ Medium- and fine-grit ⊲ 3/8" dowels
sanding sponges
TOOLS
⊲ Circular saw ⊲ Paintbrush
⊲ Jigsaw or coping saw ⊲ Router with 1/4" roundover bit
⊲ Power drill and bits ⊲ Eye and ear protection
⊲ Rubber mallet ⊲ Work gloves
⊲ Bar clamps
COUNTERTOP WINE RACK CUT LIST
KEY QTY PART NAME DIMENSION MATERIAL
A 2 Sides 3/4 × 91/4 × 103/4" birch
B 2 Shelf front/back 3/4 × 51/2 × 201/2" birch
B
B
A
COUNTERTOP WINE RACK 45
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How to Build a Countertop Wine Rack
STEP 1: Cut the wood for the project to
1
match the cut list specifications. Use a
copier to enlarge the patterns on page 45.
Transfer the rack pattern onto the
1 × 6 wood stock, using transfer paper
and a stylus or hard pencil.
STEP 2: Drill a 1/4" hole near the edge of
each circle, then slip the jigsaw blade into
the hole and cut along marked lines to cut
out the circles.
STEP 3: Rip-cut each rack piece along 2
the marked line from the pattern, using a
circular saw and straightedge guide or
a table saw.
STEP 4: Repeat the transfer process
with the pieces of 1 × 10 stock, using the
pattern on page 45 and marking the screw
locations. Cut the wood along the marked
lines, using a jigsaw.
3
4
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STEP 5: Use a router and a 1/4" roundover
5
bit to shape the edges of the panels
(except the bottoms of the feet) and
the edges of the racks (but not the ends).
Sand the faces and edges of all the pieces.
STEP 6: Place the end pieces face-up on a
workbench. Drill 3/8" countersunk pilot holes
at the marked screw locations. Spread glue
on the ends of the rack pieces, assemble
the pieces, and clamp the assembly
together using bar or pipe clamps.
6
STEP 7: Drive screws through the pilot
holes in the panels and into the rack
pieces. Spread glue on the ends of 3/8"
dowel plugs or buttons and insert one
into each screw hole to conceal the screw
heads. Trim and sand the plugs flush after
the glue dries.
STEP 8: When the glue is dry, sand
the entire unit with a fine-grit sanding
7 sponge and apply two coats of a finish
of your choice.
8
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Tasting Table
This compact and handy small
table is based on the design used
for wine-tasting tables in wineries.
They are meant to be out-of-the-
way additions to a wine cellar,
just big enough to hold a glass of
wine and the bottle that fills it. But
even if you’re not a fan of adult
grape juice, you’ll find plenty of
handy uses for this table. It can
hold a lamp and a book alongside
your bed, or host a snack right
by the couch, as you watch your
favorite movie (although you may
want to modify the dimensions—
specifically the height—to suit your
particular use).
T he table’s supporting structure is
made from SPF wood, a softwood
lumber product made from spruce,
pine, and fir. The wood is cheap
but strong, and takes stains and
finishes well. To complete the table,
you’ll need an MDF disc and a little
hardware. The result, however, is far
more visually powerful than the sum
of its parts.
Don’t be surprised if you fall
in love with this table; not only is it
easy to construct, but you can also
put it together for a fraction of what
a prefabricated table would run you.
You might want to plan on making two
tables at the same time, because a
pair of these is the perfect, balanced
complement to a living room suite, or
as twins on either side of a bed.
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WHAT YOU NEED
MATERIALS
⊲ Black 11/2" hex head screws ⊲ 1/8 × 11/2 × 751/2" strap iron ⊲ 21/2" wood screws
⊲ Lag screws ⊲ (4) 2 × 4" × 8' SPF ⊲ Flat washers
⊲ 8d finish nails ⊲ (2) 1 × 4" × 8' pine ⊲ 11/4" brass wood screws
⊲ Wood glue ⊲ Half sheet 3/4" MDF ⊲ Cutting oil
⊲ Stain, paint, or other finish ⊲ 3" wood screws ⊲ Black enamel paint
TOOLS
⊲ Table saw ⊲ Drill press (optional) ⊲ Clamps
⊲ Jigsaw or bandsaw ⊲ Drill and bits ⊲ Paintbrush
⊲ Compass or trammel points ⊲ Hacksaw ⊲ Eye and ear protection
⊲ Belt sander or palm sander ⊲ Nut driver ⊲ Work gloves
TASTING TABLE CUT LIST
KEY QTY PART NAME DIMENSION MATERIAL
A 16 Tabletop 3/4 × 21/2 × 24" SPF
B 3 Shelf disc 3/4 × 21" dia. MDF
A
C 4 Leg 3/4 × 31/2 × 351/2" SPF
D 4 Filler-short 3/4 × 31/2 × 10" SPF
E 4 Filler-long 3/4 × 31/2 × 231/4" SPF
B
F 3 Stemware rack 3/4 × 11/2 × 12" Oak F
C
E
E
D
D
D
B C
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How to Build a Tasting Table
STEP 1: Rip the four 2 × 4s to 2 1/2" wide,
1
removing the rounded eased edges. Cut
them to length and lay the 16 workpieces
on edge and face-to-face on a flat surface.
They should be aligned, forming a 24"
square. Apply liberal amounts of wood glue
to the faces and clamp the pieces together
with pipe or bar clamps. Let cure overnight.
STEP 2: Use a compass or trammel points
to scribe a 24"-dia. circle on top of the
glued pieces.
2
STEP 3: Cut out the circle using a
bandsaw or a jigsaw with a wide, stiff
wood-cutting blade. Cut just outside the
cutting line so you can sand the edge up to
the line.
STEP 4: Lightly resurface the tabletop with
a belt sander and 150-grit sanding belt.
This will get rid of dried glue squeeze-out
and create a smoother, more even surface.
Finish-sand the edges. 3
4
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STEP 5: Apply a coat of thinned shellac
5
to the completely sanded tabletop as a
sanding sealer. Let the sealer dry and then
stain the tabletop with a dark wood stain,
such as dark walnut or the finish you desire.
Apply a penetrating topcoat if desired (such
as tung oil).
STEP 6: Drill a screw hole every 4" in the
metal strap. Use a drill press if possible and
lubricate the drilling area with cutting oil.
Paint the strap with black enamel.
6
STEP 7: Center the strap on the edge of
the tabletop and mark a pilot hole for the
first screw in the middle of the strap. Drive
a hex-head screw to fasten the strap. Add
the next screw in line, and then the next on
the opposite side. Alternate back and forth,
bending the strap as you go so it is flush
against the wood.
STEP 8: Fabricate the legs by face-gluing
7 the filler strips onto the inside faces of the
full-length legs, creating a 3/4" recess at
the top and a 11/2" recess starting 10" up
from the bottom. Lay out the legs in a row
to ensure that they’re even, and attach the
filler strips with glue and finish nails.
8
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STEP 9: Cut three 21"-dia. shelves from
9
the MDF. Use the same compass technique
you used on the top. Once all three circles
are cut, gang them together and sand
them so the edges are round, smooth,
and uniform.
STEP 10: With the three shelves stacked,
divide the top circle into four equal
quadrants. Lay a scrap piece of
1 × 4 along one quadrant line, centered side
to side on the line. Mark the leg notches
on the edge of the circle. Stand the scrap
10
piece on end between the marks and trace
the outline of the leg notch on each end of
the line. Repeat with the opposite quadrant
line to mark all four leg notches.
STEP 11: Cut out the notches in all three
shelves with a jigsaw or bandsaw. Sand the
notches and square. Separate the three
shelves, and fill any nail or screw holes you
may have created by ganging the parts.
STEP 12: Drill countersunk pilot holes for
11
3" wood screws through the legs and into
the shelf disc notches. Glue and screw the
legs to the shelves. Check that the base is
level and square before covering the screw
heads with wood plugs or wood filler.
12
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STEP 13: Sand the legs and the shelves
13
and apply your desired finish. Here, the
same finish that’s applied to the tabletop is
applied to both the legs and the shelves (a
sealer coat of thinned shellac followed by
dark walnut stain and then penetrating oil).
Because the stain is dark, the MDF shelves
accept it well and blend with the legs and
tabletop. But you may prefer to paint the
shelves gloss black or even a metallic tone.
STEP 14: Set the tabletop good-side down
on a flat surface. Position the base upside
14
down on the underside of the tabletop.
Center the base so that the top overhangs
equally on all sides. Drill several 1/4" access
holes through the top shelf, but not into the
tabletop. Drill pilot holes into the underside
of the tabletop, matching the access holes.
Slip metal washers onto 21/2" wood screws
and drive one at each hole (this washer-
and-guide hole system allows for some
wood movement).
STEP 15: Cut a 45° bevel on each edge of
15
a 1 × 2" strip of hardwood. Cut the strip into
three 12" lengths.
STEP 16: Arrange the three strips parallel
to one another on the underside of the top
shelf. (Use a wine glass base as a reference
for spacing the strips.) With the strips
aligned end to end, screw them to the
top shelf with countersunk 11/4" brass
wood screws.
16
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Rolling Bar Cart
A bar cart is a truly elegant extravagance in any dining room or home. Imagine whipping up a
martini or three after a long day at work, or hustling children back and forth. Or think about the
look on your friends’ faces when you wheel out the cart to serve some refreshments at your next
cocktail party. Unfortunately, this is one piece of furniture most people would never think of
buying for themselves. No problem. Why buy, when you can make yourself a totally cool version
like the one in this project?
T his mixologist’s assistant features
a rough, dark appearance that is
meant to stand out against the sparkle
of bar and stemware and bottles
of wine and alcohol. Although the
look is distinctive and industrial, the
cart actually fits into a wide range of
interior design styles. Of course, you
can always switch up the visual by
painting the angle irons white or black,
and painting the “shelves” in your
favorite bold color.
In use, the cart is equally
accommodating. If you decide that a
bar cart is simply unnecessary for the
type of entertaining you do, or is out of
place in your kid-oriented home, you
can always repurpose this as a mobile
kitchen island. You’ll find the shape
lends itself well to providing a useful
work surface, but in just the right shape
so as not to interfere with kitchen
foot traffic. The rugged durability of
the design and construction means
that this particular cart can roll up its
sleeves and get busy outside the home
as well. You can even put it to work
in your garage or workshop as a tool
or material caddy, or an all-purpose
movable work surface.
No matter where you put it, you
won’t have to worry about day-to-day
abuse, water rings, or other dings
and dents because they will only add
character to the cart.
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WHAT YOU NEED
MATERIALS
⊲ (1) 1 1/2 × 96" aluminum angle ⊲ #14 × 1" roundhead wood screws
⊲ (1) 5/8 × 16 × 72" pine panel ⊲ #12 × 3/4" roundhead screws
⊲ (2) 1 1/2 × 13" brushed aluminum cabinet door pulls ⊲ 100-grit sandpaper
⊲ 1/4 × 1" lag screws ⊲ Stain or finish
⊲ (4) 3" casters (2 swivel, 2 rigid)
TOOLS
⊲ Jigsaw (or hacksaw), with metal-cutting blade ⊲ Paintbrush or rag for staining
⊲ Power drill and bits ⊲ Eye and ear protection
⊲ 1/4" box wrench ⊲ Work gloves
ROLLING BAR CART CUT LIST
KEY QTY PART NAME DIMENSION MATERIAL
A 3 Shelf 5/8 × 16 × 24" Pine panel
B 4 Leg 1/8 × 11/2" × 24 Aluminum angle
C 2 Pull 11/2 × 13" Brushed aluminum
A C
C
B
A
B
A
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How to Build a Rolling Bar Cart
1 2
STEP 1: Use a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade to
3
cut the aluminum angle into four equal legs (each
slightly less than 24"). Use masking tape over the cut
line to prevent the metal jigsaw shoe from scratching
the aluminum.
STEP 2: Cut the shelves to size, out of the pine panel.
Sand and stain the boards with a dark stain or your
preferred finish. For a more worn look, distress the
surface before (and even after) staining.
STEP 3: Position an aluminum angle leg along
one edge of a sacrificial piece of wood and drill
three 1/4" holes: one at each end, 3/8" in from the end,
and one centered along the length of the leg. Drill the
opposite face in the same way, and then repeat with
the three remaining legs.
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4 5
STEP 4: Working on a flat, level work surface, clamp
6
the three shelves standing on edge, parallel, between
two legs on either side of the shelves. Mark the edge
of the shelves through the leg holes. Drill pilot holes
at the marks and screw the legs to the shelves with
11/4" screws.
STEP 5: Stand the cart assembly upright on the
work surface and clamp it to the work surface. Check
for level and plumb, and then screw the legs to the
shelves on the faces that were face-down on the
work surface.
STEP 6: Set the cart top-down on the work surface.
Position a caster flush to one corner of the cart, and
drill pilot holes for the #12 × 3/4" roundhead screws. Use
7
a depth gauge marked at 5/8" on the drill bit to prevent
drilling all the way through the shelf. Be sure to put
the two swivel casters at one end (along a short side)
of the bar cart.
STEP 7: Turn the cart right side up, and screw the
handles in place along both short edges, by drilling
pilot holes through the bottom leg of the handles
up into the underside of the top shelf (using a depth
gauge) and screwing the handle to the shelf.
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THE TOOL AISLE:
Angle Grinder Shopping Guide
an angle grinder is a multipurpose tool that you won’t know you needed until you start actually using one
in your workshop or garage. then you won’t be able to put it down. Versatility is what angle grinders are
all about. despite the name, this project animal can quickly cut, sand, polish, grind, and even sharpen
other tools. need to customize a tile to fit around an odd-shaped projection in your new bathroom floor?
Look no further. Want to carve through that rebar for your addition foundation like a knife through butter?
Got you covered. any angle grinder is easy to handle but will have more than enough power to handle
just about any task you can throw its way.
the most common angle grinder used by home craftspeople is a 41/2" corded model (although more
and more cordless grinders are available). Finding the perfect angle grinder for your projects and the
workshop challenges you most often face is a matter of looking at the specs and narrowing down your
search by the power and extras you need . . . and those you don’t. as with some other handheld power
tools, it’s a great idea to rent an angle grinder to get a sense of the qualities and key features that will
serve you best.
• Speed. angle grinder efficiency is largely determined by the speed at which the wheel turns. Speed
ratings are “no-load” measurements—the speed of the wheel turning freely, not held against any
surface. Faster is not necessarily better. although you want a lot of speed if you’re going to be
grinding down welds or doing a lot of steel work, a slower grinder will be easier to control for finer
jobs like sanding and will produce less heat while working. Home-use grinders range in speed from
8,000 to 12,000 rpm. However, you gain even more control by spending a bit more for an adjustable
speed grinder; that way, you can tailor the speed to the work you’re doing.
• Safety features. although features like wheel and side guards are standard pieces on any angle
grinder, a terrific safety option you may want to consider—and not standard on many grinders meant
for home use—is a safety slip clutch. this is more important the more powerful your grinder is; the
device prevents kickback when operating the grinder. Kickback is not just a jarring annoyance; it can
cause serious accidents and injury. you can also pay a little extra for adjustable guards that will allow
you greater access with the grinder wheel without sacrificing safety.
• Ergonomics. operation of an angle grinder requires that you be able to position it properly for the job
at hand, and that you can leverage your body angle and weight when necessary. that means your
hands should fit comfortably on the handle and body of the grinder. But you should also consider
the weight of the grinder. if your grip strength is modest, you may want to look at models that are not
only lighter, but also thinner. Handle options are a big plus. Common extras include adjustable side
handles and vibration-reducing handle grips.
• Extras. it’s always good to consider your suite of tools when buying any individual addition to your
toolbox. if you’re buying a cordless angle grinder, you’ll find that many manufacturers offer batteries
that are swappable between different cordless power tools in their line. that can be a huge plus on
a project that requires you to use a drill, grinder, and saw. Quick-change mechanisms can save a lot
of time if you regularly switch between wheels for different functions or materials. most of these allow
you to change the wheel without a tool.
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Angle Grinder Safety
Wear eye protection, ear protection, and heavy work gloves when operating an angle grinder. If you’re
working on metal or loose mortar, it also makes sense to wear heavy work shoes. In any situation where
you’ll be grinding metal or rust, wear a dust mask.
Unplug or remove the battery whenever you change a grinder’s wheel.
Orient yourself and the grinder to the work surface so that debris is directed down and away from you.
Secure the work piece so it doesn’t move.
Run a new grinding wheel for one minute in a secure area before actually using it, to ensure it is not
defective and that it is mounted correctly.
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Chunky Club Chair
Sometimes, you just have to make a statement with a piece of living room furniture. It might
be that elegant camel-back couch in blue velvet, or a sleek, white, mirror finish credenza that
cements the modern-style cred of your home. Or, it might be that you want something assertive,
strong, and . . . well, big and chunky. That’s when you turn to this chair.
T he style is large, rough-hewn, and unmistakably male. The chair will work best when placed in a
room with other untamed, natural materials, such as a fieldstone fireplace or the unfinished iron
hardware and wide planks of a sliding barn door. Because it’s constructed of treated pine, it can also
do duty as an outdoor chair, and would be wonderful as one of a pair on a patio. No matter where you
put it, give the chair a little space around it to be seen. This distinctive seating will stand all on its own.
As substantial as it might appear, the construction is really rather simple. It goes together quickly
courtesy of a few stair tread hangers and easy-to-find lumber. The seat is rather low slung but
extremely comfortable. It’s the perfect place to spend the better part of an evening reading your
favorite novel or just pondering a roaring fire pit. The materials for the chair were purposely selected
for customization. You can smooth all the wood and paint or finish it in a chic, more polished, or
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WHAT YOU NEED
MATERIALS
⊲ (3) 4 × 4 × 96" wood posts ⊲ (24) 6" self-tapping lag screws ⊲ (2) 11/2 × 10" stair tread angles
(cedar or similar) (GRK type) ⊲ (4) 7" stair brackets
⊲ (1) 2 × 12 × 72" pine ⊲ 11/4" self-tapping wood screws ⊲ Paint or stain (optional)
⊲ 1 upholstered deep seat patio chair ⊲ 3" self-tapping wood screws
cushion with back
TOOLS
⊲ Measuring tape ⊲ Circular saw ⊲ Eye and ear protection
⊲ Carpenter’s pencil ⊲ Power drill and bits ⊲ Work gloves
⊲ Bar clamps or C clamps ⊲ Speed square
⊲ Miter saw ⊲ Paintbrush (optional)
CHUNKY CLUB CHAIR CUT LIST
KEY QTY PART NAME DIMENSION MATERIAL
A 12 Sides 31/2 x 31/2 x 24" Treated pine (or cedar)
B 2 Seat boards 11/2 x 111/4 x 221/2" Treated pine (or cedar)
C 1 Back rest 11/2 x 111/4 x 22" Treated pine (or cedar)
C
B
A
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How to Build a Chunky Club Chair
1
STEP 1: Measure the seat cushions you want to use and doublecheck that the chair measurements suit the
cushions. Cut all the leg timbers (inset) to exactly the same dimensions as listed in the cutting list. Cut the 2 × 12s
for seat and back using a circular saw. Screw a long piece of 1 × 2 to the fence of your saw through the holes in
the back. Screw a stop block to the 1 × 2 to cut all the 4 × 4s to length.
STEP 2: Sand all the 4 × 4s and round over the edges. Build one side by positioning a side timber flush against a
stop that has been clamped perpendicular to the edge of the work surface. Sit the next timber for the side flush with
the first, and drill countersunk 1/4" pilot holes spaced in about 4" from each end, from the bottom of the second timber
up into the first. Drive 6" lag screws up through the holes. Continue building the side by adding four subsequent
timbers, drilling the lag screw holes offset of the timbers above. Repeat the process with the opposite side.
STEP 3: Determine your preferred seating height by measuring a comfortable chair in your house. Lay each side
assembly with its least attractive face up. Position two stair brackets with the L-bend in the bracket aligned with
the bottom of the third timber from either end (or to whatever height makes most sense for your preferences). The
brackets should be 3" in from either side. Make sure the two sides are mirror images of each other. Screw them in
place with 3" wood screws. Repeat with the opposite side.
2 3
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STEP 4: Stand the sides up, parallel to one another
4
and on edge (the stair brackets will be perpendicular
to the work surface or the floor). Position one 2 × 12
seat board between the sides, snug to the bottom stair
brackets. Make sure the inside faces of the sides are
snug to the seat board edges and screw the brackets
to the seat board with 11/4" wood screws. Repeat with
the second seat board and second pair of brackets.
STEP 5: Sit the chair upright. Measure up 3" from the
seat on one side, at what will be the back of the chair.
Position a scrap reference block with the top edge on
the line, and use a speed square to adjust the block to
a 25° angle slanting backwards. Clamp the reference
block in place. Repeat on the opposite side, and then
use 3" wood screws to fasten a stair tread angle in
place with the bottom resting on top of the reference
5
block. Repeat on the opposite side.
STEP 6: Clamp the back rest in place between the stair
tread angles on either side, with the bottom of the back
rest aligned with the bottom of the angles. Screw the
angles to the back rest with 11/4" wood screws.
QUICK TIP
Design Mods
Want to kick up the cool factor of this chair?
Substitute the 4 × 4s with reclaimed antique
timbers. More and more retailers are offering
6 lumber salvaged from old factories, barns,
shipping containers, and other dilapidated
structures. Although you have to be aware that
the lumber is usually actual measurements
rather than nominal sizes (and the occasional
piece may even be unusual, one-off
dimensions), with a little searching, you can
often find visually interesting lumber that may
actually cost less than buying new. Some
species of reclaimed lumber are no longer
available and added to environmental effects—
such as the smoke from tobacco curing
barns—that translates to one-of-kind looks
you can buy or replicate.
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Maple Molding Room Divider
Divider screens are an often overlooked but interesting piece of furniture that adds a lot to any
room’s layout. It’s not hard to find one at retail, but they unfortunately tend toward the bland.
If you want a real showstopper, you have to build your own.
T his project describes the crafting of a privacy screen with a traditional three-panel design. The
panels stand accordion-style, creating a stable structure that is less likely to fall when bumped.
This screen is substantial but still lightweight enough to making moving it when necessary a
reasonable task for any able adult.
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This one, like any privacy screen, can play both a pragmatic and aesthetic role in your interior
design. A privacy screen is excellent for visually dividing long narrow rooms into smaller, more visually
pleasing, inviting spaces. It can also cordon off a section of a larger room, creating a more intimate
conversational nook. Of course, as the name implies, a privacy screen can also be used to provide a
modicum of privacy, such as creating a discrete dressing area in a studio apartment.
Ultimately, though, any practical application also involves the decorative potential of the screen.
The graphic style of this screen is pure contemporary style, understated, and elegant. It is visually light,
thanks to the maple trim used to build the frame. The diffuser panels used at the tops of the frames
allow light but block view, making them perfect for an interior privacy screen. You’ll find different
patterns of diffuser panels—choose the one that suits your tastes (you can even find colored panels
online). If you were willing to work with a more finicky material, you could even substitute stained glass
for the diffuser panels.
The rest of the construction is fairly straightforward; the bottom of each frame incorporates
maple cabinet doors and all the elements are widely available at any well-stocked home center or
lumberyard. The maple looks great unfinished, but if you would prefer a different look, paint, stain,
or finish the wood components prior to constructing the screen panels.
WHAT YOU NEED:
MATERIALS
Frame Precut Trim Moldings:
⊲ (7) 11/16 × 11/2 × 96" (maple)
⊲ (10) 1/2 × ¾ × 96" (maple)
Finish Elements:
⊲ (3) 3/4 × 16 × 211/2" cabinet
doors (maple)
⊲ (3) 1/16 × 24 × 48" light
diffuser panels
⊲ (4) 4" bifold door hinges
⊲ #8 × 11/2" GRK screws
⊲ 1" brads
⊲ Clear silicone adhesive
TOOLS
⊲ Measuring tape
⊲ Miter saw
⊲ Power drill and bits
⊲ Claw hammer
⊲ Utility knife
⊲ Bar clamps
⊲ Metal straightedge
⊲ Caulk gun
⊲ Eye and ear protection
⊲ Work gloves
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MAPLE MOLDING ROOM DIVIDER CUT LIST
KEY QTY PART NAME DIMENSION MATERIAL
A 6 Uprights 11/16 × 11/2 x 64" Maple
B 9 Rails 11/16 × 11/2 × 211/2" Maple
C 12 Horizontal retainer 1/2 × 3/4 × 211/2" Maple
D 18 Vertical retainer 1/2 × 3/4 × 119/16" Maple
E 3 Diffuser Lite 1/16 × 21 × 38" Maple
E
A
C E
E
A
D
B
A
A
A
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How to Build a Maple Molding Room Divider
STEP 1: Cut all the uprights, rails,
2
and retainers for all three panels
before beginning. Stage the pieces
so that you can be sure you have
all the parts necessary to construct
the panels, and that they are
uniform, panel to panel.
STEP 2: Measure and mark two
uprights 8" up from the bottom,
and 171/2" up from that mark, make
a second mark. Glue three rails
between the dividers: one at the
unmarked end; one with its bottom
face aligned with the 8" mark; and
one with it’s bottom face aligned
with the 171/2" mark. (The rails
should all be positioned on edge,
to match the width of the uprights.)
Clamp the rails between the
uprights. Use a carpenter’s square
to ensure the frame is square, and
then drill pilot holes through the
outside of the uprights into the
center of each rail end. Screw the
uprights to the rails with two 11/2"
self-tapping screws per rail.
STEP 3: Cut 3/16"-thick shims.
Starting at the rail second from the
bottom, dry fit a horizontal retainer
3
between the two uprights, butted
to the rail and resting on the shims.
Drill pilot holes and nail the retainer
in place (nail through the 1/2"
side). Use the vertical retainers as
spacers for the horizontal retainers.
Nail the top retainer in place in the
same way. Fasten the horizontal
retainers with 11/4" self-tapping
screws, driven through pilot holes
from the outside of the uprights into
the center of the retainers.
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STEP 4: Starting from the fastened horizontal
4
retainer, shim the vertical retainers on either side
and drill pilot holes into the uprights. Nail the
vertical retainers in place, snug to the horizontal
retainer. Repeat with this pattern, screwing the
uprights to each horizontal retainer and nailing each
subsequent pair of vertical retainers in place. This
will create an inner frame for the diffuser panel.
STEP 5: Cut the diffuser panel to the dimensions in
the cutting list (working on the smooth side, if there
is one). The panel here was measured, marked, and
a straightedge clamped along the cut line; the panel
was then cut with a new utility knife blade by scoring
5
through it about ten times and snapped off. However,
depending on the panel you buy, you may need to
use a saw for a clean, straight cut. Use masking tape
along the cut line and raise the blade of the table
saw as high as possible. Work very slowly and wear
gloves and eye protection.
STEP 6: Lay a bead of clear silicone adhesive along
the inside edge of the interior frame. Lay the textured
side of the diffuser panel in the bead of silicone
adhesive (inset).
6
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STEP 7: Build the second diffuser panel frame on top
7
of the diffuser panel, fastening the members in the
same way and same location as the bottom frame.
Be sure the members hold the panel snugly.
STEP 8: Place 3/8"-thick shims at the corners of the
square opening in the divider panel (the cabinet door
should be centered, front to back, in the opening).
Sit the door in the opening and measure to make
sure the inset is the same on all four sides. Drill
pilot holes through the uprights into the edge of the
door, and screw the door in place with 21/2" self-
tapping screws.
8
STEP 9: Build the two remaining screen panels in the
same manner. Make marks for the hinge on the first
panel 7" from the top and 10" from the bottom. Screw
the first hinge leaf in place, then set the center panel
next to hinge side. Place the panels mirror-image style,
so textured side is facing textured side (or smooth
to smooth). Align the ends and hold the two panels
together, separated by the thickness of the hinge
knuckle, and screw the second leaf in place.
9 STEP 10: Stand the two panels up, then mark and
install the hinges for the third panel. Remember to
have all the textured sides facing the same way.
The knuckles of the second set of hinges should be
on the opposite edge of the frame if you want your
divider to fold in an S shape. If you would rather have
the divider fold in a C shape, fasten the hinges on the
same side.
10
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Aluminum Sheet Lamp
Beautiful table lamps can be the jewelry of a home’s interior design. A unique table lamp is a
wonderful accent, and this project is a prime example. The design is distinctive, original, and
sophisticated. It ensures that the lamp can serve as both a source of illumination and a decorative
flourish in and of itself.
T his lamp is adaptable to different areas. It could go equally well on a bedside table or a living
room end table. Keep in mind, though, that it is meant as accent lighting rather than task lighting;
it shouldn’t be used as a reading or work light. Wherever you place it, it will be extremely convenient
thanks to the in-cord switch.
The aluminum sheet used for the body of the lamp is an engaging and fascinating material. It’s stiff
enough to hold its shape over time, but pliable enough to bend to just about any angle or curve. The
sheet comes in several different cutout designs; this project uses a product with a diamond cut, but
you’ll find surface patterns from highly complex and beautiful Fleur-de-lis, to simpler, less fussy looks
such as a basic geometric pattern.
This particular lamp project uses an all-in-one cord-and-socket unit. This is specified to avoid any
wiring that might intimidate novice DIYers. But if you’re willing to do very basic and simple electrical
work (wiring two wires from a cord to the socket), you open up your options. For instance, you could
pair a brass socket with a white cord, or a use a nickel-finish socket that would blend more seamlessly
with the aluminum sheet. Regardless, never exceed the maximum wattage for which the socket and
cord are rated in the bulb you use. And be aware that the metal surface can heat up even with a
modest bulb—so keeping the lamp out of reach of pets and young children is a wise idea.
WHAT YOU NEED:
MATERIALS
⊲ 1/4" plywood ⊲ 40-watt bulb ⊲ 80-grit sandpaper
⊲ 1 × 1 × 24" pine ⊲ 12 × 24" patterned ⊲ Primer and white gloss
⊲ Black hanging lamp light cord aluminum sheet acrylic paint
with socket ⊲ 3/4" flathead wood screws
⊲ (2) cable clamps ⊲ 11/4" flathead wood screws
TOOLS
⊲ Measuring tape ⊲ Power drill and bits ⊲ Tin snips
⊲ Pencil compass ⊲ 1" spade bit ⊲ Paintbrush
⊲ Marker ⊲ Jigsaw ⊲ Eye and ear protection
⊲ Carpenter’s pencil ⊲ Bar clamps ⊲ Work gloves
ALUMINUM SHEET LAMP CUT LIST
KEY QTY PART NAME DIMENSION MATERIAL
A 3 Disks 1/4 × 6"-dia. Plywood
B 2 Posts 3/4 × 3/4 × 93/4" Pine
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QUICK TIP
Lamp Options
There are many, many different ways to go with this lamp to customize it and put your own signature on
the design.
• Size. Aluminum is typically sold in finished sheets that are either 24" × 36" or 36" square.
Create a much taller lamp—essentially a floor lamp—by using the full width of the sheet and otherwise
following this project’s instructions. You will, however, have to weight the base with metal inserts, or
other modifications to ensure the lamp doesn’t fall over when bumped.
• Change the type. A table lamp is a lovely accent unless you have no spare tabletop space on which
to put the lamp. In that case, you can consider modifying this project into a hanging lamp or sconce.
For a sconce, use a divider piece of wood running
the entire seam, instead of the base. You’ll need
to cut a channel in the back of the wood for the
cord and a hole for the socket. To hang this lamp,
use only the top disk of the base; the cord can be
trailed out the top and down to an outlet, or up to
a plug socket in a ceiling box.
• Material. Aluminum isn’t the only sheet metal that
is stamped with surface cutout designs. You can
find variations in brass, which would make an
even more attention-grabbing light fixture. The
project instructions would otherwise be exactly
the same.
How to Build an Aluminum Sheet Lamp
STEP 1: Clamp a plywood sheet across
1
two sawhorses. Use a carpenter’s pencil
compass to mark three 6" circles. Use
the compass to mark two of the circles
with a 4" circle inside the outer circle.
Cut out the circles—and the inner circles—
by drilling an access hole and then using
a jigsaw.
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STEP 2: Clamp the solid disk to a work surface with a sacrificial
2
piece underneath. Center a 1" spade bit on the center mark and drill
a hole all the way through the disk. Use a jigsaw to cut a 1/2" wide slot
in one of the rings, from the outside edge to the inside edge.
STEP 3: Sand all the cut edges smooth. Prime and paint the wood
disks gloss white. Do the same with the two pine posts.
STEP 4: Position and mark the two posts directly opposite each
other on the bottom disk. Drill pilot holes and screw through the
underside of the disk into the posts. Position the un-notched ring
centered on the post to match the position of the bottom disk. 4
Drill pilot holes and screw the ring to the posts.
STEP 5: Secure the socket in the base disk center hole
(the socket used here has wings that hold it in place; if yours
doesn’t, you can secure it with a dab of silicone glue). Screw a
plastic cable clamp on the underside of the base disk about 1/4"
from the hole, and then another aligned with the first about 1" from
the first. Holding the cord taut, screw the clamps over the cord.
5
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STEP 6: Turn the lamp frame upside
6
down and clamp the notched ring to
the base disk, aligned with it and with the
cord running out through the slot cut in
the ring. Drill countersunk pilot holes and
screw the ring to the bottom disk with a
series of 11/4" wood screws. Put a bulb in
the lamp socket and plug it in to test that
it is working.
STEP 7: Drill four holes spaced equally
along one end of the aluminum sheet, 1/4"
in from the edge. Stand the lamp upright
and hold the sheet edge to one of the
posts. Drill pilot holes through the sheet
holes, and screw the sheet to the post
with 3/4" wood screws.
7
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STEP 8: Roll the aluminum sheet tightly
8
around the lamp frame. Clamp the sheet
where it overlaps the screws holding the
starting edge of the sheet. Mark the screw
locations and the cut line.
STEP 9: Mark a notch for the electrical
cord. Make the notch big enough so that
the cord will not rub against a sharp metal
edge. Unscrew the end of the sheet and
remove the aluminum sheet from the frame.
STEP 10: Use tin snips to cut the sheet to
length. Drill holes at the screw locations
on the opposite end from the starting end.
Cut the notch for the cord.
STEP 11: Position the aluminum sheet
with the holes in the sheet aligned with the
holes in the post and clamp the sheet in
place around the frame. Screw through the
holes in both ends (overlapping) and into
the post. Drill pilot holes and screw a few
additional screws around the top ring edge
and bottom disk edge.
11
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Bedroom or Entryway Bench
A bedroom bench is an often overlooked piece of furniture that should get more attention than it usually
does. This is a traditional part of the bedroom furniture suite that adds an obvious design element, but, more
importantly, provides day-to-day function that makes the bedroom much more convenient.
T hink about it. How many times each day do you sit on the edge of your bed to put on socks and
shoes, answer a phone call, or slip your pants on and off? Perching on the edge of a mattress is
a sure way to decrease the lifespan of the mattress and is never very comfortable. A bench provides
a place to sit and finish dressing, temporarily place a jacket or other clothing, or even keep a stack
of books in the room. Once you add a bedroom bench to your sleeping chamber, you’re likely to be
surprised at how much you use it.
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The bench in this project has been carefully designed to take up the smallest possible footprint
while still being incredibly useful. It can be placed at the foot of the bed, where it won’t get in the
way of traffic flow in the room, and where it will be most accessible. However, you could just as
easily place it along one wall in a larger bedroom, or anywhere that suits your preferred layout.
You could also adapt it to other areas. It can, for instance, be wonderful seating for a vanity area,
a place to rest while putting on makeup. The size and design make it ideal for duty in a large
entryway, or as extra seating in a large living room. You could even increase the length of the legs
and use this as a small side table.
Regardless, precision is key in this project. A wobbly, out-of-square bench is almost worse than
no bench at all. Take your time when making the measurements and especially when you’re checking
alignment between different members, such as the legs and braces.
The design of the bench was developed for simple and sturdy construction. Traditionally,
aprons on a bench are attached with mortise-and-tenon joints, but four concealed face-mount
2 × 4 joist hangers do the job here with no woodworking skills required. The seat is made of stair
treads, available through home centers everywhere. The milled bullnose on these treads make for
a comfortable edge on the seat. The stair treads are unfinished and could be painted or stained
instead of finished clear. If you’re willing to spend a little bit more money, you could even opt for
stair treads in one of the many different woods and finishes (many stair treads come prefinished).
Although the base here is natural, it could just as easily be painted or stained.
WHAT YOU NEED:
MATERIALS
⊲ (2) 111/4 × 48" unfinished pine stair tread ⊲ 2" wood screws
⊲ (4) 21/4 × 21/4 × 151/4" turned legs ⊲ 1" wood screws
⊲ (2) 1 × 4 × 96" pine board ⊲ Finishing nails
⊲ (2) 2 × 4 × 96" pine board ⊲ Wood putty
⊲ (4) 2 × 4" face-mount joist hangers ⊲ Wood conditioner
⊲ 80-grit sandpaper ⊲ Paste wax
TOOLS
⊲ Measuring tape ⊲ Putty knife
⊲ Carpenter’s pencil ⊲ Carpenter’s level
⊲ Speed square ⊲ Hammer
⊲ Nailset ⊲ Metal straightedge
⊲ Miter saw or adjustable table saw ⊲ Bar clamps
⊲ Circular saw ⊲ Cheesecloth applicator
⊲ Power drill and bits ⊲ Eye and ear protection
⊲ Palm sander (optional) ⊲ Work gloves
⊲ Paintbrush
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BEDROOM BENCH CUT LIST
KEY QTY PART NAME DIMENSION MATERIAL
A 4 Legs 2¼ × 2¼ × 1¼" Turned pine
B 2 Seatboard 1 91/2 × 48" Pine stair tread
C 3 Frame blocking 11/2 × 31/2 × 125/8" Pine
D 2 Frame Side 11/2 × 31/2 × 401/2" Pine
E 2 Apron end 3/4 × 31/2 × 18" Pine
F 2 Apron side 3/4 × 31/2 × 47" Pine
B
D
C
F
E
A
Most building centers carry a selection of pre-milled
table legs in a variety of lengths and styles. These
country-style pine legs would take hours to turn on
a lathe, but can be purchased for less than $10 each
at a home center or online.
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How to Build a Bedroom or Entryway Bench
1 2
STEP 1: Use a joist hanger and 2 × 4 end scrap to measure and
mark the frame position on one face of all the legs. The hangers
should be centered side to side on the faces, and the 2 × 4 should
be flush with the top of the leg.
STEP 2: After you’ve marked all the faces, screw the hangers to
the legs with #14 self-tapping screws.
THE TOOL AISLE
Orbital Sander Shopping Guide
When it comes to hand sanders, the finest touch can be had with orbital sanders. However, there are
actually two, fairly different types of orbital sander: the orbital finishing sander with a square pad and the
random orbital sander with a round pad. In either case, they are sometimes called quarter pad sanders,
because that’s how much of a standard sandpaper sheet they use at a time.
• Orbital finishing sander. This sander is effective for easy smoothing tasks where not a lot of material
needs to be removed—such as between paint coats and light sanding of a wood surface. Models with
holding clips are less expensive, because it usually entails cutting down a standard sandpaper sheet
to clip on the pad. If you prefer the convenience of stick-on pads and don’t mind paying a premium for
the sandpaper, look for a model with a stick pad. The other key factor is comfort. The sander should
feel very good in your hand, or you’ll quickly fatigue when sanding. The length of warranty is a good
indicator of value with this type of sander, and a quality model is bound to last far longer than the
cheapest you’ll find.
• Random orbital sander. Unlike standard orbital sanders on which the pad spins like a wheel, the
random orbital sander sands with a random movement that doesn’t leave circular sanding marks.
Although it’s handheld like the smaller orbital finishing sander, it is more powerful and capable of
knocking down significant putty buildup and rough work pieces. The best random orbital sanders
feature a “hook-and-loop” pad attachment that holds the pad firm during sanding. You’ll also want
to find one with variable speeds rather than a simple off and on setting, because the speeds offer a
great deal more control. As with an orbital finishing sander, grip is hugely important. Look for abundant
padding under your palm and plenty of purchase area for your fingers. If you do a lot of sanding,
consider paying more for a unit with a vacuum attachment to remove dust quickly and efficiently.
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STEP 3: Cut the 2 × 4 frame sides to
3
length and sand the ends smooth. Insert
the ends into the joist hanger hardware
attached to the leg tops. Fasten with
#14 11/4" screws. Work on a flat, level work
table with the bench upside down to
ensure the top will be perfectly flat.
STEP 4: Sit the leg assemblies upside
down on a flat, level work surface, parallel
and about 161/2" apart (measured outside
to outside). Position one frame block
between the leg assemblies, centered
along their length. Place the other two
frame blocks 4" in from either end. Check
that the blocks are square to the frame
sides, and that the frame is square, then
4
screw the frame sides to the blocking ends
with 3" screws.
STEP 5: Cut the aprons to length and
sand the ends. Position the apron ends
across the ends of the legs, flush to the
sides and tops of the legs. Drill pilot holes
through the aprons into the legs, and
tack the legs in place with 4d finish nails.
Repeat with the side aprons, overlapping
the ends of the sides to form butt joints
with the apron ends.
5
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6
STEP 6: Use a nail set to set all the finish
7
nails in the aprons. Cover all the heads with
wood putty (inset). Let dry and sand smooth.
STEP 7: Center the bench seat boards on
the top of the frame, and clamp in place.
Drill pilot holes and fasten the seat boards
in place with 4d finish nails. Use a nailset to
sink the nails. Putty over the nail heads and
sand smooth.
8
STEP 8: Finish the bench with a coat of
wood conditioner and your choice of stain,
clear poly, or paint. (The bench here was
finished with Swedish Maple stain for a
“country” look.) Pine is a very porous wood,
so it is always a good idea to give the wood
a coat of wood conditioner before applying
stain. It will provide a more even finish with
less blotchiness. 9
STEP 9: Protect the finish and bench
with a coat of paste wax, buffed on with
a cheesecloth applicator. Buffing the
wax is a very critical step in finishing.
The more you buff, the glossier and
harder the finish becomes.
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Living Wall
If you’re looking for an entirely novel way to introduce a living decorative centerpiece—look no
further. The stunning structure in this project frames a wealth of plants of your choosing. Go with
annual flowers for a display bursting with colors, create an incredibly varied vertical herb garden
for a sunny kitchen wall, or just enjoy a cascade of foliage year round with a combination of
mounding and trailing perennials.
T he wonderful thing about this unique creation is that it works equally well inside or out. All you really
need is an abundance of light, because you control the growing medium and type of plants. You can
even grow this wall in low-light situations by installing the optional gro-light fixture (page 85).
The construction is a bit unusual, but not technically challenging. The project has been designed
to support what can add up to considerable weight—when you combine lumber, soil, plants, and water.
The structure is basically a U-shaped outer cabinet, kept secure with spreaders, and with a 2 × 4 frame
in the center that supports a prefab fabric “planting pocket” hanging wall. (These are widely available in
garden centers and online.) When filled, the fabric allows water and air to pass through, but securely
holds soil and plant roots. If leakage is a concern, use the catcher described in the instructions.
WHAT YOU NEED:
MATERIALS TOOLS
⊲ 2" drywall screws ⊲ 80-grit sandpaper ⊲ Circular saw ⊲ Eye and ear protection
⊲ 21/2" deck screws ⊲ Wood putty ⊲ Power drill and bits ⊲ Work gloves
⊲ Wood glue ⊲ Black paint ⊲ Putty knife
⊲ 39 × 39" felt wall planter ⊲ Paint, stain, or finish ⊲ Paintbrush
B A
D
LIVING WALL CUT LIST
KEY QTY PART NAME DIMENSION MATERIAL
E
A 2 Cabinet sides 1 × 71/4 × 80" Select Pine
B 1 Cabinet top 1 × 71/4 × 39" Select Pine
C 1 Bottom Spreader 1 × 51/4 × 19" Pine
D 1 Top Spreader 1 × 31/2 × 39" Pine
E 2 Frame Horizontal 11/2 × 31/2 × 39" SPF F
F 2 Frame Vertical 11/2 × 31/2 × 32" SPF
C
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How to Build a Living Wall
STEP 1: Glue and screw the top between the sides
1
with wood glue and 21/2" drywall screws driven through
pilot holes.
STEP 2: Working on a flat, level work surface, lay a
1 × 4 top spreader between the two sides, and butted
to the top. Drill pilot holes and screw the sides to
the spreader. Install a 1 × 6 bottom spreader at the
opposite end in the same way, between the two sides
and flush with the ends of the sides. Flip the structure
and add top and bottom spreaders to the opposite
side of the structure.
STEP 3: Lay the 2 × 4s for the interior frame on a
flat, level work surface. The shorter verticals should
run inside the longer horizontals. Toenail the frame
4
together at the corners, ensuring it is square.
STEP 4: Insert the frame into the cabinet. The top
should be 18" down from the top of the cabinet.
Position the frame square to the cabinet. (The back
of the frame top should be flush with the back of the
cabinet.) Tilt the bottom of the frame up 2", using
shims. This will ensure light reaches the plants in the
lower pockets. Secure the frame with 21/2" deck screws
driven through the sides and into the ends and edges
of the frame.
STEP 5: Putty over nail and screw heads, let dry,
and sand smooth. Paint the exterior of the carcass
whatever color you desire, then paint the interior and 5
frame black (a dark color won’t show through the
plantings as much).
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STEP 6: Secure the felt wall planter to the frame. The version
6
shown here has brass grommets, allowing the planter to be hung
with zip ties. However, to ensure proper support for watersoaked
plants and soil, the planter was screwed to the frame with 11/4" pole
barn screws.
OPTIONAL: Install a grow light in the top of the cabinet if you plan
on locating the living wall indoors, or in any low-light area. Center
the fixture on the underside of the cabinet top, as far toward the
front of the cabinet as possible, and screw it to the cabinet with 1/2"
wood screws. NOTE: To make the light maintenance-free, fasten
an in-line timer on the exterior of the cabinet, and plug the light’s
power cord into the timer.
QUICK TIP
Waterproof
When you water the plants in this living wall, there is a chance that excess water will leak out of the pockets.
If you don’t want them leaking on a surface below where the living wall is located, create a water catcher.
Cut a section of 6" K-profile metal or vinyl gutter slightly shorter than the width of the cabinet. Glue gutter end
caps on either end and sit the gutter under the felt planter (or attach it between the cabinet sides).
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Plant Stand
If you’ve gone to the effort of
nurturing an indoor plant with lovely
foliage and an attractive growing
habit, it seems a shame to hide it
on a side table or off in a corner of
a bookshelf. Great indoor plants
need a stage to shine, and a table
like the one in this project is just the
pedestal on which to show off your
botanical lovelies.
T he stand has been designed with
its function in mind; the look is
subdued and sophisticated, not so
showy as to steal attention away from
your favorite plant, but not so dull as
to fade into the background. It helps
that the construction is sturdy—the
stand can tolerate the burden of even
a heavy plant in a true terra cotta
pot with moist soil. The inclusion of
ceramic tile surfaces on the shelves
ensures that a little leakage is not
going to be a problem and that
cleanup will be a breeze.
You’ll also find that the tiny footprint
of the stand allows you to put it just
about anywhere, from the corner of a
solarium or sunny living room, to fitting
right by a front door, enjoying the sun
streaming through entryway sidelites.
No matter what, though, position the
stand for the benefit and light exposure
needs of the plant on top.
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WHAT YOU NEED
MATERIALS
⊲ (1) 1 × 8 × 48" (pine or poplar) board ⊲ (1) 8 × 4' × 1/2" plywood ⊲ Wood glue
⊲ (2) 1 × 3 × 120" (pine or poplar) board ⊲ (1) 12" square ceramic tile ⊲ 3d and 4d finish nails
⊲ (1) 1/2 × 1 × 96" (pine or poplar) ⊲ (1) 71/2" square or mosaic tile ⊲ 1", 11/4" and 11/2" deck screws
stop molding ⊲ 150-grit sandpaper ⊲ Wood putty
TOOLS
⊲ Power drill and bits ⊲ Grout float ⊲ Eye and ear protection
⊲ Circular saw ⊲ Nailset ⊲ Work gloves
⊲ Palm sander ⊲ Putty knife
⊲ V-notch adhesive trowel ⊲ Masking tape
PLANT STAND CUT LIST
KEY QTY PART NAME DIMENSION MATERIAL
A 4 Box side 3/4 × 71/4" × 8" Pine
B 8 Leg 3/4 × 21/2 × 291/2" Pine
C 1 Top tile base 11/2 × 121/4 × 121/4" Plywood
D 1 Box top 3/4 × 71/4 × 71/4" Pine
E 1 Shelf 1/2 × 73/4 × 73/4" Plywood
F 4 Top frame 1/2 × 1 × 131/4" Pine Molding
G 4 Shelf frame 1/2 × 1 × 83/4" Pine Molding
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How to Build a Plant Stand
1 2
STEP 1: Measure the tile before cutting the top tile
4
base; leave 1/8" all around for a grout gap between the
tile and frame. Cut and sand the box sides, top tile
base and box top. Fasten the sides of the box with butt
joints, drilling countersunk pilot holes and making the
joints with wood glue and 11/2" deck screws.
STEP 2: Center the box top on the bottom face of the
top tile base. Drive 1" deck screws through the top tile
base and into the box top.
STEP 3: Position the top tile base and box top onto
the box. Drill countersunk pilot holes through the box
sides and into the top. Fasten the box top with 11/2"
deck screws.
STEP 4: Drill countersunk pilot holes through the legs
and into the box sides. Ensure that each outside leg is
flush with the box edge before attaching the legs with
wood glue and 11/4" decks screws. Maintain a 1/4" gap
between the legs in each pair.
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STEP 5: Miter the shelf frame board ends. Spread tile
5
adhesive on the shelf, using a V-notch trowel. Press the
tile into place, centered on the shelf. Let the adhesive
cure fully before proceeding.
STEP 6: Drill pilot holes and nail the shelf frame pieces
in place around the shelf with 3d finish nails. The top of
the shelf frame should be level with the top of the tile.
STEP 7: Drill pilot holes and nail the legs to the lower
shelf with 4d finish nails. (The bottom of the shelf
should be 10" from the bottom of the stand.)
STEP 8: Miter each end of the top frame pieces.
Attach the top tile to the top tile base as you did with
the lower tile and base.
6 STEP 9: Drill pilot holes and nail the top frame in
place against the top base, using 4d finish nails and
keeping the top edges of the frame flush with the top
of the tile. Be careful to drive the nails into the base,
rather than the tile.
STEP 10: Set all the nails with a nailset. Cover nail and
screw heads with wood putty, let dry, and sand smooth.
Finish sand all surfaces with 150-grit sandpaper. Prime
and paint the stand as desired (or finish natural with two
coats of clear polyurethane if desired).
STEP 11: Once the finish is dry, mask off the frame
pieces and fill the gaps between the tiles and the
frames with tinted grout. Use a small grout float to
pack the grout into the gaps and smooth the joints
with a damp sponge.
8
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Five-Gallon Planter
Impressive planters can be showcases in a backyard setting. Sizeable, substantial, and unusual
planters are often the perfect addition to deck, patio, or backyard. It can even be a surprising
visual in the garden proper, a perfect place for a lovely specimen plant amid permanent plantings
or shrub stands. Large, sturdy planters allow you to control the sun exposure, soil, and water
culture of the plant, keeping it super healthy. The planter also lets you put the plant where you’ll
get the most visual bang for the buck.
T he one downside? Cost. Large ceramic planters can run more than $100 and that’s not counting
the eye-catching plants they call for.
But there’s a much better way to get your ideal large planter than running out to the local nursery
or home center. You can make a visually and physically sturdy planter with just a few basic supplies
from different aisles in the home center.
A planter like the one in this project can be adapted to many different plants and applications.
You can modify the look in many different ways, and making multiples requires just a bit more work
than making one. The best part is that you don’t need the high-end skills that making a large ceramic
planter would require—and the result will look every bit as cool.
This planter is heavy enough that rambunctious pets, children playing tag, or the occasional fierce
summer thunderstorm won’t tip it over. The planter is a clever use of the common 5-gallon plastic
bucket, which you can buy from any home center or hardware store or even find free at many different
supermarkets and other retailers ( just clean it out before use). With a little time and a modest amount
of elbow grease, you’ll have stunning backyard addition that will be the envy of the neighbors.
WHAT YOU NEED:
MATERIALS
⊲ 5-gallon plastic bucket ⊲ Nonstick cooking spray
⊲ 80-grit sandpaper ⊲ Quick-setting concrete mix
⊲ Heavy-duty duct tape ⊲ Latex concrete fortifier
⊲ 1/2" wood dowel ⊲ Fiber mesh reinforcement
⊲ 8"-dia. tube form
TOOLS
⊲ Marker ⊲ Trowel
⊲ Straightedge ⊲ Utility knife
⊲ Square ⊲ Diamond polishing pad
⊲ Reciprocating saw ⊲ Eye and ear protection
⊲ Hot glue gun and glue ⊲ Work gloves
⊲ Concrete mixing supplies
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Make a Five-Gallon Planter
STEP 1: Turn the five-gallon bucket upside down
2
and use a marker and a carpenter’s square to draw
a line across the center of the bottom. Use the square
to extend the line on each side, up the sides of
the bucket.
STEP 2: Cut the bucket in half with a reciprocating
saw fit with a fine-tooth blade. Cut down both sides
first, then across the bottom. Smooth the cut edges
with sandpaper.
STEP 3: Reassemble the two halves of the bucket
with duct tape. Run the tape along the cut lines, then
wrap two or more horizontal bands of tape around 3
the circumference of the bucket.
STEP 4: Hot-glue a 3"-long, 1/2" dowel or pipe to the
bottom center of the bucket to create a drainage
hole for the planter. Coat the inside of the bucket, the
dowel, and the outside of the cardboard tube form with
nonstick cooking spray or concrete release treatment.
4
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STEP 5: Mix quick-setting concrete with a latex
5
fortifier; make the concrete stiff rather than wet and
sloppy. Add 2" of the mix to the bottom of the bucket
and tap the bucket on a hard work surface to settle the
concrete. Optionally, add fiber reinforcement (or use a
concrete mix containing fiber mesh) for extra durability.
STEP 6: Set the cardboard tube form onto the top of
the concrete layer, centering it inside the bucket. Fill
around the tube with concrete, settling it periodically by
striking the side of the bucket. Keep the tube centered
in the bucket as you work. Smooth the concrete flush
with the top of the bucket and let the casting cure for a
6 day or more.
STEP 7: Free the planter by removing the tape around
the bucket and pulling off the bucket halves. Slide
out the tube form. (If the form is stuck, cut it from the
inside with a utility knife and roll it inward to remove it.)
Clean up the outside and top edge of the planter with a
diamond pad or file, as desired.
7
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Message Center
Chances are that if you’re like most homeowners, your refrigerator is covered with a magnetic
to-do pad, a grocery list, and a few other important pieces of paper in among the collage of family
pictures or your collection of refrigerator magnets from everywhere you’ve traveled. Maybe
you’ve even stuck up important papers that you don’t want to forget to mail. Similarly, the wall
over your guest bedroom work desk might be mottled with handwritten sticky notes recording
upcoming events and pressing issues that require your attention. Maybe you even have a
chalkboard somewhere in the house, listing chores or other family notices.
A ll of that should not be confused with true organization. There’s a much better way to keep you
and your family running smoothly through your lives. A centralized message center—one that is as
handsome as it is useful—is the answer.
The stunning center outlined in the steps that follow is brilliant in its combination of simplicity and
usefulness. There are surfaces for writing and for sticking up important papers and handy hidden
storage, all in a visually pleasing package with a bit of flair that ensures you’ll be proud to mount this
near the overused back door or right along a main wall in the kitchen.
Even better, this project doesn’t require advanced workworking or DIY skills. You just need to be
careful with the measurements and pay attention to the details, and the message center will look like
something you ordered out of a furniture catalog. Just don’t be surprised when friends hound you to
know where you got it.
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WHAT YOU NEED
MATERIALS
⊲ (1) 4/4 × 8" × 10' deck board ⊲ 2 touch latches ⊲ (4) 1/2 × 12 × 12" cork tiles
⊲ (1) 4/4 × 6" × 8' deck board ⊲ Panel adhesive ⊲ Wood glue
⊲ (1) 1 × 4 × 4' pine ⊲ 2" finish nails ⊲ 2" finish nails
⊲ (1) ½ × 48 × 48" birch plywood ⊲ (4) 2" butt hinges
TOOLS
⊲ Miter saw or circular saw and ⊲ Bar clamps ⊲ Eye and ear protection
miter guide ⊲ Hammer ⊲ Work gloves
⊲ Power drill and bits
MESSAGE CENTER CUT LIST
KEY QTY PART NAME DIMENSION MATERIAL
A 2 Top/Bottom 4/4 × 71/4 × 48" Select Pine
B 1 Side 4/4 × 71/4 × 261/4" Select Pine
C 2 Divider 4/4 × 51/2 × 241/4" Select Pine
D 1 Cork backer 1/2 × 24 × 24" Birch plywood
E 1 Dry erase backer 1/2 × 12 × 24" Birch plywood
F 1 Cleat 1/2 × 3 × 241/4" Birch plywood
F A
C
B
D
E
A
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How to Build a Message Center
1 2
STEP 1: After cutting the top and bottom boards to the
3
dimensions on the cutting list, make 45° bevel cuts at
one end of each using a power miter saw (or a circular
saw and cutting guide). Cut mating bevels at each end
of the side board to fit with the beveled ends of the top
and bottom.
STEP 2: Cut the dividers from nominal 6" wide 4/4
stock (or use leftover 8" stock and trim off 2" from
the back edge).
STEP 3: Fasten the bevel joints between the side and
the top and bottom boards using wood glue, 2" finish
5
nails, and clamps.
STEP 4: Measure and mark the divider positions to
create a 121/4"-wide dry-erase bay, and a 241/4"-wide
cork-board bay. Use wood glue and 2" finish nails to
fasten the two dividers between the top and bottom
boards, flush with the back edges.
STEP 5: Cut the mounting panels for the cork
board and dry erase board, using a circular saw and
straightedge cutting guide. Sand the edges smooth.
STEP 6: Cut the hanger cleat from plywood or scrap and fasten it to the top board in the cork bay, between the
dividers, using glue and finish nails. The cleat should be flush to the back of the board.
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STEP 7: Use panel adhesive to attach the dry erase
7
board to the backer, centered on the backer. Use
the sticky tabs supplied with the cork panels (shown)
or use panel adhesive to fasten the cork tiles to the
corkboard backer.
STEP 8: Hang the dry erase board and the corkboard in
their bays, screwing 2" butt hinges attached to opposite
sides of the divider that separates the two bays.
STEP 9: Install touch latches inside the corkboard
cabinet opening and the dry erase board opening.
OPTIONAL: Cut and install a narrow shelf inside the
corkboard bay. Finish or paint the message center
8
as desired.
Hinge STEP 10: Cut three or four decorative 1" dia. branches
to fit vertically in the open area at the right of the
message center. Position them in the opening in a
pleasing composition. Toenail them in place with finish
nails, or drill screw holes from underneath and screw
the branches in place.
STEP 11: Hang the message center by driving a pair of
screws through the cleat and into wall studs.
9 10
Touch latch
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Birdhouse
Imagine stepping out into your backyard on a sunny morning, cup of coffee in your hand, and
watching as beautiful songbirds fill the air with music and color. It’s a wonderful way to start the
day, but one that doesn’t happen by accident.
B irds, like humans, flock to places that attract them. Just as humans tend to land in pretty towns or
vibrant bustling cities that offer services, safety, and nice places to live, birds seek sanctuaries where
they can rest protected from predators and where they can find sustenance without too much work.
The house in this project is specifically designed to be constructed with minimal expense,
expertise, and effort. You should be able to use lumber odds and ends left over from other projects,
with just a few crucial hardware and supplies that can easily be found in any well-stocked hardware
store. With that in mind, don’t hesitate to alter the dimensions to suit the pieces you have on hand.
There are, however, certain features that should not be changed. For instance, there is a key easy-
access element on the birdhouse—a removable bottom on the birdhouse—that is essential to the
success of this backyard addition. The removable bottom allows you to clean out the unit when birds
are not using it, which is crucial to keeping birds healthy and free from parasites and insects.
The outside appearance is less crucial, but certainly worth consideration. The instructions for the
house include painting it a simple green, which will be pleasing for any birds. You can change the
color scheme as you see fit, but keep in mind that birds have keen eyesight and prefer something
that looks natural to them. It’s a good idea to stay away from a pure white birdhouse, because many
species consider white a sign of alarm and danger. You’ll notice that no perches have been added.
Perches can be used by predator birds to dominate the feeder and attack nesting birds.
Adding a birdhouse to your yard is also a responsibility. You should keep the area clear of debris and
overgrowth that could hide predators. The reward for paying a little attention and thought to your backyard
birdhouse and bird feeder will be a nearly nonstop show of colorful flying creatures and pleasing birdsong.
WHAT YOU NEED:
MATERIALS
⊲ 80-grit sandpaper ⊲ 3/4" round head screws
⊲ 4" PVC pipe ⊲ Plastic primer and paint, and exterior gloss paint
⊲ (2) 4" PVC slip caps ⊲ Painter’s tape
⊲ PVC primer and cement ⊲ #14 zinc- or nickel-plated chain (or substitute
⊲ 1/4" dowel paracord or similar)
⊲ 11/4" flathead wood screws ⊲ #8 screw hook
TOOLS
⊲ Table saw or miter saw ⊲ Palm sander (optional)
⊲ Bar clamps ⊲ Power drill and bits
⊲ Carpenter’s compass ⊲ 11/4" hole saw
⊲ Metal straightedge ⊲ Eye and ear protection
⊲ Center punch or awl ⊲ Work gloves
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QUICK TIP
Creating a Birdhouse
Like all of us, birds seek a comfortable place to rest their weary (hollow) bones. But birds have different
requirements than humans when it comes to comfortable lodgings. Comfort, for a feathered home
resident, means being safe amid familiar and secure surroundings. That means that creating the most
attractive home for potential lodgers is a matter both of where you put the house and how appealing your
yard is from a bird’s perspective.
To start with, the birdhouse should be at roughly the correct height for the species you’re hoping to attract
(see box “Size Matters” on page 103). But you should also follow the guidelines below to ensure the
birdhouse is exactly where the birds would most like to stay. Any feeder you add should be kept even higher,
as far away from the birdhouse as reasonable, and away from any location where squirrels or raccoons could
drop onto the feeder (keeping in mind that you’ll still need to get to the feeder to refill the birdseed).
• Line of sight. Clear line of sight is important for birds and human minders. Enjoying the birds that come
into your yard means being able to see them, so the birdhouse should be placed where it can be
directly viewed from windows in the house, or a common area such as a backyard deck. Not only does
this ensure that you enjoy the activities of your many feathered friends, it allows you to detect any
potential dangers, such as feral cats, before they cause problems. But line of sight also applies to what
the birds can see. They should be able to view in all directions before entering the house, so that they
can make sure the coast is clear whenever they come home.
• Keep it clear. Although birds tend to like landscaping that mimics what they would find in the wild,
they choose a home based on safety. The safest birdhouse is farther than a cat’s jump from a nearby
branch or surface. It should be away from fences or other features that might conceal a predator.
• Off the beaten path. Birds like to nest in relative quiet, away from commotion. Place a birdhouse
away from common areas where people and pets frequently tread. Even if humans and animals aren’t
actually close to the birdhouse, the constant motion will cause birds to stay away.
How to Build a Birdhouse
STEP 1: Screw a 1 × 4 sacrificial wood piece
1
to the miter saw fence. Clamp the PVC pipe
to the fence and cut it 8" long, slowly and
carefully. Sand the pipe and two caps all
over—including sanding down any raised
lettering—until they are an even, matte white
and a uniform color.
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• Watch the windows. Birdhouses should be kept as far from windows as possible to prevent birds flying
into the windows and injuring themselves. This may not be a problem for house windows, because most
people instinctively know to place a birdhouse at a remove from the house where human activity is
common. But the same holds true for outbuilding windows, such as those in a utility shed.
• Landscape with safe, native plants. The ideal birding landscape includes a variety of plants that birds know,
trust, and see as potential food and shelter. Part of that landscaping involves avoiding any plants that could
be toxic to birds. For example, caster
bean, Lily of the Valley, and foxglove are
all potentially poisonous to birds in the
garden. Keep in mind that if you have
fruits such as a cherry tree, the birds
are going to take their share. Most bird
lovers accept that as a fair bargain.
• Limit the lawn. An expanse of grass is
of little use or attraction to a songbird.
If you really want to create an inviting
environment for winged visitors,
replace all or part of a large lawn with
flowering shrubs or trees.
• Account for weather. If your area is
subject to severe storms and high
winds, create a wind break to prevent
the birdhouse from being blown off
its support.
STEP 2: Use a carpenter’s compass or
2
a nail, string, and pencil, to measure and
mark two circles on the plywood, one 5"
in diameter and one 7" in diameter. Use a
jigsaw to cut out the discs. Use a jigsaw or
3" hole saw to cut out a 3" disc from the
center of the 7" disc. Cut the dowel 6" long.
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STEP 3: Clamp the PVC pipe in a vise with
3
padded jaws, or to a work surface using bar
clamps. Use a metal rule as a straightedge,
laid end to end, and mark the bird access
hole 5" in from one end. Use a center
punch or awl to mark a starting point and
drill the hole with a 11/4" hole saw. Sand the
edges of the hole smooth.
STEP 4: Turn one of the slip caps upside
down on the work surface and lay a
straightedge directly across the center
of the cap. Mark the lip on both sides, for
holes directly across from one another.
Run the marks down onto the sides of the
cap (the holes should be drilled 3/4" down
from the edge of the lip). Secure the cap 4
in a vise with padded jaws, and make a
drill-bit starting point at one of the key
marks, using an awl or center punch. Drill
a 1/4" dowel hole at the mark. Remove any
burrs around the hole with sandpaper or a
utility knife.
STEP 5: Slide the dowel through the
hole and check where the dowel contacts
the lip on the opposite side. Ensure that
the contact point matches the key marks.
Remove the dowel and drill the opposite
hole as you did the first. Stand the pipe on
a work surface with the bottom up (the end
on which the drilled slip cap will be placed).
Slip the drilled cap onto the pipe, and use
6
the holes on each side as guides to drill
matching holes in the base of the pipe.
STEP 6: Use a compass to draw a
3" circle on the 5" disc. Lay the 3" disc
on the circle and flip the two discs. Drill
four pilot holes at points of the compass,
and screw the 5" disc to the 3" disc with
11/4" flathead wood screws, being careful
to keep the 3" disc centered.
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STEP 7: Center the 7" disc on top of the
8
5" disc as you did in the previous step. Drill
two pilot holes on either side and screw
the 7" disc to the 5" disc with 11/4" flathead
wood screws. Set the undrilled slip cap top
down, centered on the 7" disc. Screw the
cap to the 7" disc with two 3/4" round head
screws spaced evenly around the inside of
the cap.
STEP 8: Cement the top of the pipe into
the undrilled slip cap with PVC primer and
cement (follow the instructions on the tin).
STEP 9: Lightly sand the wood, PVC
pieces, and dowel. Lay a very fine bead of
exterior white paintable caulk along the
joints between the wood discs. Tape off the wood pieces and prime and paint the plastic sections with gloss white
plastic paint. Let it dry, then tape off the plastic pieces, and prime and paint the wood gloss white, using quality
exterior paint. Slip the drilled cap onto the end of the pipe and align the holes. Tap the dowel through the holes.
(If the holes are too large and the dowel is loose, dab a small amount of silicone adhesive around the holes.)
STEP 10: Drill a pilot hole and install a screw hook into the top of the birdhouse. Hang it from a sturdy tree branch
with a length of #14 nickel-plated chain, nylon string, or similar.
QUICK TIP
Size Matters
The entrance hole in this project’s birdhouse is 11/4" in diameter, but different species prefer different size
holes. It’s a matter of being able to fit through, while preventing predators from getting in.
Bird Hole Size Placement Height from Ground
Eastern Bluebird 11/2" 8' high, in open area
Tree Swallow 1" 6–8' high, in open area
Purple Martin 21/8" 20' high
Tufted Titmouse 11/4" 8–10' high
Chickadee 11/8" 6–8' high
Nuthatch 11/4" 20–25' high
Wren 1" 8–10' high
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Built-Ins from
Stock Cabinetry
W alk into any large home center and you’ll have no difficulty finding a simply awe-inspiring
selection of cabinets and molding options. Modern cabinetry comes in an incredible diversity of
attractive styles and durable materials. Stock models range from the plain to ornate, and regardless
of which you choose, the prices have never been more attractive.
The projects in this section make good—if sometimes unconventional—use of stock cabinetry to
create alluring work spaces and more. The key here is that it’s easy to work with cabinetry because
the dimensions are a known quantity. That means it’s usually not very difficult to make adjustments as
needed to suit the space available.
However, there’s no getting around the fact that these projects are larger and more involved
than most of those in the previous section. Just the same, the focus remains on basic skills, and ease
of building. After all, that’s the whole point of using readymade materials like prebuilt cabinets. So
although the final version of any project in this section will be impressive and even room-changing,
none will require fine woodworking experience, specialized tools, or techniques you’ve never heard
of. The biggest challenge you’ll face with these projects is choosing the one (or ones) that is just right
for you house and how you want to work and live in it.
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IN THIS SECTION:
Bed Surround . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
Closet Home Office . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Custom Laundry Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Compact Laundry Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
Hobby Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
Media Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Towel Tower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Crown Molding Shelf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
105
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Bed Surround
Do you still have your boring old headboard that came with your bed back when you bought it?
If so, you’re wasting a lot of dynamic real estate that could be put to far better use. All that area
around where you lay your head at night is just begging to be exploited.
A full surround is the perfect treatment for adding massive amounts of accessible bedroom storage
and injecting a lot of wow power into the look of your bedroom. This particular project includes
nightstands on either side that are the very definition of “handy.”
Because nobody will be walking under the cabinets, the overall measurements for placement
are very forgiving and adjustable. It’s wise to lay out the design on paper if you anticipate that you
might want to change the dimensions supplied here. Standard queen-size mattresses are all the same
dimensions, and your bed frame may add both width and height to the overall picture.
You can vary the look of your own surround with the cabinets you choose, and especially with
the countertop materials you opt for in building the nightstands on either side of the bed. It’s a place
where you can splurge on upscale materials without breaking the bank. You can also add integral
lighting fixtures with just a bit more work. However, the surround is also ideal for placement of
screw-on corded fixtures that don’t require dealing with wiring.
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WHAT YOU NEED:
MATERIALS
⊲ (4) 12 × 30" Wall cabinets ⊲ (2) 1½ × 19 × 25" Countertop ⊲ Touch-up paint
⊲ (2) 15 × 30" Wall cabinet ⊲ Spackle
⊲ (2) 18 × 341/2" Base cabinet ⊲ Sanding block
TOOLS
⊲ Measuring tape ⊲ Pull saw or coping saw ⊲ Putty knife
⊲ Stud finder ⊲ Pry bar ⊲ Eye and ear protection
⊲ Carpenter’s pencil ⊲ 4' level ⊲ Work gloves
⊲ Power drill and bits ⊲ Circular saw
BED SURROUND CUT LIST
KEY QTY PART NAME DIMENSION
A 4 Wall Cabinet 12" × 30"
B 2 Wall Cabinet 15" × 30"
C 2 Base Cabinet 18" × 341/2"
D 2 Countertop 11/2 × 19 × 25"
B
D A
C
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How to Build a Bed Surround
STEP 1: Mark the left and right edges of the project area based on
1
your bed size (add about 1" on either side to the width of the bed),
and then find the center between these two points. Be exact. Use
a 4' level to mark a plumb line up from the center point on the wall.
This is the control point from which you map out the rest of the
layout.
STEP 2: Measure 301/8" left and right of the center point to mark
the outside edges of the horizontal uppers. (Drive a 6-penny nail
right on the centerline to hold your tape.) Use a stud finder to
locate and mark stud locations in the installation area.
2 STEP 3: Install a temporary ledger at the location of the bottom of
the horizontal cabinets (81" above the floor in this case). Carefully
install the horizontal upper cabinets by resting them in position on
the ledger and driving screws through the cabinet backs and into
wall studs.
STEP 4: Cut and install filler strips along the edge of any cabinet if
there is a gap between it and its neighbor.
STEP 5: Use a 4' level to draw plumb lines down from the outside
edges of the upper cabinets. Measure the base cabinets’ width,
3 and mark and cut out the baseboard from the plumb lines in, to
accommodate the cabinet’s width. Cut the baseboard with a coping
or pull saw, and a pry bar as necessary. Be careful not to damage
the drywall.
5
4
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6 7
8
STEP 6: Attach a countertop to the base units on either side of
the bed. (The countertop here was fabricated from particleboard
covered in plastic laminate, but the small surface area makes this
a good place to splurge on high-end materials, such as quartz,
marble, or granite.) The countertop surfaces will support the vertical
upper cabinets.
STEP 7: Install the left base cabinet tight to the plumb line,
screwing it to a stud. Shims may be required to keep face frames 9
tight and flush, due to irregularities in the wall surface. Insert shims
behind the cabinets as needed and remove excess shim material
after installation.
STEP 8: Mount the first vertical upper cabinet tight to the plumb
line, on top of the left base cabinet, fastening it into a stud. Be
careful of the countertop during installation. Mount the second
vertical upper tight to the first. Make sure the face frames are flush
and shim as necessary. Repeat for the right side vertical cabinets.
STEP 9: The horizontal uppers and vertical uppers should meet
perfectly. If so, fasten the face frames with 2" wood screws. 10
STEP 10: If the cabinets are not flush, adjust the horizontal uppers
to mate with the left and right vertical cabinet towers. Once flush in
all directions, fasten the face frames and secure to the wall.
STEP 11: You can install (or have installed) any light fixtures
and switches in the cabinet structure at this time. Remove the
temporary ledger, patch the drywall, caulk, sand, and spot-touch
the finishes and paint as necessary.
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Closet Home Office
Carving out a dedicated home work space can be a real challenge. Even if you only use your
home office part time, it’s difficult to find an area where the debris of daily life won’t creep in
and make your work space much less organized. But there’s a place to put a home office that
might have slipped your attention this whole time. Right there in your own bedroom or a guest
bedroom: a closet.
I t doesn’t even need to be a walk-in closet. Most standard
closets have all the space you need—if configured
correctly—to serve all your work needs and then some.
QUICK TIP
It’s just a matter of making the most of the available space, Power
something this project was designed to help you do. Provide electrical service to your
The beauty of installing a home office in a closet is office by branching off of an existing
circuit. Here, boxes for a light fixture
that the space is self-contained and set apart from other
and a wall receptacle were added
spaces in the house. A closet conversion like the one and wired to a room circuit. Patches
in this project creates a discreet space where clutter is for the drywall cut to route the wiring
prevented through well-thought-out features that provide will be hidden by the panel and don’t
you with a place for everything you might need to store. need a complete finish. Consult an
There’s also a lot of room to spread and be comfortable, electrician if this type of wiring is
beyond your skill and comfort level.
whether you do most of your work on a computer, or work
directly on paper.
This is a doable project for any homeowner with
basic tools, the willingness to dive into a project and a free weekend to spend creating an ideal
workspace. Once you’ve built it, you’ll discover a great return on investment in the form of increased
productive and a more comfortable place to earn a living.
WHAT YOU NEED:
MATERIALS
⊲ Construction adhesive ⊲ Hardwood-veneer MDF-core plywood ⊲ 1 × 1" and 1 × 2" maple
⊲ Finish nails (11/4", 2") (finish-grade on one side) (1/4", 3/4") ⊲ 3/4" particleboard with plastic laminate
⊲ 31/2" wood screws ⊲ Hanger bolts (on one side) for desktop
⊲ 21/4" trimhead screws ⊲ Coupling nuts ⊲ Wood glue
⊲ 5/16" all-thread rod ⊲ Flat washers ⊲ 11/4" coarse-thread drywall screws
⊲ Hex nuts
TOOLS
⊲ Caulk gun ⊲ Hacksaw ⊲ Clamps
⊲ Circular saw and straightedge guide ⊲ Wrench ⊲ Eye and ear protection
⊲ Level ⊲ Sander ⊲ Work gloves
⊲ Drill with bits ⊲ Stud finder
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How to Build a Closet Home Office
1 2
STEP 1: Remove any baseboard and moldings in the closet. Make sure the
3
wall is smooth and dust free. Locate and mark the wall studs (left photo);
the panel seams should fall over stud centers. Optional: If you intend to
panel the ceiling, locate the ceiling joists and map their locations on paper
(right photo). (The joists support the suspended bookshelves, and it’s
difficult to locate joists once paneling is installed.)
STEP 2: Finish the good side of the paneling stock as desired. Cut
the first panel to length. Cut from the back side with a circular saw to
prevent splintering. Apply beads of construction adhesive to the back
of the panel, and press the panel against the wall so the side edges are
centered over studs.
4
STEP 3: Adjust the panel so it’s perfectly plumb, then nail it to the wall
studs with 11/4" finish nails. Use the nails sparingly; you need only enough to
ensure the panel stays flat and the edges are securely and evenly adhered.
STEP 4: Cut and install the remaining panels. Use the straight factory
edges for the butted seams. At the inside corners, place the second
(perpendicular) panel with its factory edge butted against the first panel.
If the seams are tight, you don’t need to hide them with molding.
STEP 5: Plan the bookshelf spacing as desired, then draw level lines onto 5
the walls to represent the bottom edge of each shelf. Cut and install 1 × 1
shelf cleats so their top edges are flush with the level lines. Fasten the cleats
with 21/4" screws driven into wall studs.
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STEP 6: Cut the shelves from 3/4" plywood. The top and middle shelves
6
are L-shaped, 11" deep along the back wall, with an 18"-long, full-depth leg
at one end. The bottom shelf matches the leg dimensions. If desired, drill a
hole near the back corner of each shelf for routing power cords.
STEP 7: Drill holes for the all-thread hangers following the ceiling joist
layout. Finish the shelves as desired. Nail the shelves to the cleats with
4d nails and then route the all-thread rod through the hooks. Tighten a
nut onto the rod below each shelf to support it.
STEP 8: Use a level and carpenter’s pencil to mark lines representing
the top edges of the desktop cleats: 11/2" below the desk surface. Note:
Standard desktop height is 29 to 30" from the floor, while typing surfaces
7 are typically 26 to 27". Cut and install the 1 × 2 cleats flush with the lines
using a 3½" wood screw driven into each wall stud.
STEP 9: Cut two identical pieces of desktop stock to fit the closet
dimensions, with a little bit of wiggle room for getting the stock in place
(be sure to account for the ¾" thickness of the 1 × 2 nosing). Glue the
pieces together on their bare faces using wood glue and a few 11/4" screws
to clamp them together while the glue dries. Make sure the pieces are
perfectly flush at their front edges.
STEP 10: Install the desktop. If desired, drill a large hole (11/2"-dia. or so)
through the desktop for routing cords, using a hole saw or spade bit.
8 Cut, sand, and finish 1 × 2 stock for the decorative nosing. Install the nosing
with wood glue and 2" finish nails, keeping it flush with the desk surface.
Set the desktop onto the cleats; its weight will keep it securely in place.
10
9
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Custom Laundry Center
Laundry rooms commonly lack space to spread out and keep your cleaning products organized
and effective lighting that makes working in the space easy. This is because most laundry rooms
are afterthoughts in home design, utility spaces that are not so much designed as carved out or
tacked on. But fortunately, with the steps that follow, you don’t need to deal with the annoyance
of a ill-suited laundry area any longer.
t his self-contained laundry center is ideal for handling even a big busy home’s worth of dirty
clothes. it functions like a room within a room, adding both storage space and task lighting for what
can otherwise be a disagreeable task. it is built from a base cabinet and butcher block countertop on
one side of a 24"-wide, 7'-tall stub wall, and a bank of wall cabinets on the other side of the wall. the
cabinets are specifically designed to fit above a standard washer and dryer (if you have stackables,
you’ll need to adjust the layout).
it may not be the ritziest material, but the tileboard specified for cladding the surfaces in the
project is durable and easy to clean—essential features in an area where some dirt and bumps are just
par for the course. the maple trim keeps things looking as nice as any other room in the house.
Word to the wise: if this center is going into a room that didn’t house the laundry before arrange
for and have installed the hookups for both appliances before you build. if you are not experienced
with plumbing and wiring, hire a plumber and electrician to run any new drain, supply, dryer vent, or
electrical service lines.
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WHAT YOU NEED:
MATERIALS
⊲ (1) 4 × 8' × 1/2" plywood or OSB ⊲ 1 × 2", 1 × 4", and 1 × 6" maple ⊲ Nails
(wall sheathing) ⊲ (2) 30" 2-door uppers ⊲ (4) 11/2 × 31/2 × 96" pine
⊲ (1) 4 × 8' × 3/4" plywood or OSB ⊲ Electrical box (optional) ⊲ (1) 341/2 × 36" base cabinet
(ceiling)
⊲ Switch (optional) ⊲ (2) 12 × 30 × 30" wall cabinets
⊲ (3) 4 × 8' sheets tileboard
⊲ 14/2 romex (optional) ⊲ (1) 11/2 × 25 × 36" butcherblock
⊲ (3) Recessed canister light with trim countertop
kit (optional) ⊲ Switch plate (optional)
⊲ (1) 24" clothes rod with ⊲ Panel adhesive
mounting hardware ⊲ Drywall or deck screws
TOOLS
⊲ Tape measure ⊲ Drill/driver and bits ⊲ Circular saw
⊲ Level ⊲ Powder-actuated nailer ⊲ Miter saw
⊲ Pencil ⊲ Hammer or pneumatic nailer ⊲ Eye and ear protection
⊲ Square ⊲ Jigsaw ⊲ Work gloves
CUSTOM LAUNDRY CENTER CUT LIST
KEY QTY PART NAME DIMENSION MATERIAL
A 2 Cap/sill plate 11/2 × 31/2 × 233/4" Pine
B 3 Stud 11/2 × 31/2 × 79" Pine
C 1 Full wall 1/2 × 233/4 × 813/4" Plywood
D 1 Wall cap 3/4 × 51/2 × 79" Maple
E E 1 Ceiling 3/4 × 24 × 100"* Plywood
F 2 Half wall 1/2 × 233/4 × 43" Plywood
G 4 Top trim 3/4 × 51/2 × cut to fit Maple
H 1 Base cabinet 34½” h × 36” w Stock cabinet
G
G I 2 Wall cabinets 12 × 30 × 30” Stock cabinet
A
J 1 Countertop 1½ × 25 × 36 Countertop
Tileboard G K 1 Trim 3/4 × 11/2 × 43" Maple
K * Can be pieced together from two boards joined above A
F
I
J
H Tileboard
B C
A
D
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How to Build a Custom Laundry Center
1 2 3
STEP 1: Attach the 233/4" base sill plate for the 7' × 24" stub wall 4
perpendicular to an existing wall, allowing space between the stub wall
and the corner for your base cabinet (36" in this case). Use pressure-
treated wood if you’re installing the laundry center in a basement. Fasten
the plate with a powder-actuated nailer and concrete nails.
STEP 2: After toenailing the studs to the base plate (and facenailing the
stud next to the wall if possible) nail the 233/4" cap plate to the top of
the studs with 16d common nails, making sure the studs are plumb.
STEP 3: If you are installing overhead lighting, run cable from the power
source through the studs and to an electrical switch box mounted to the wall
frame. Install boxes for the light fixtures (don’t hook up the wires yet). Hire
an electrician to do this if you are not experienced with home wiring. (Note
that you will need to apply for a permit and have your wiring inspected.) Also
run sheathed cable from the electrical box and out through a hole in the wall 5
cap plate. Run enough cable to reach the light fixtures. Here, the fixtures are
wired in series: the power lead goes to the canister light over the counter,
then runs to the other lights. If you prefer to switch the light independently,
install a double gang box and cable for two switched circuits.
STEP 4: Install the base cabinet between the stub wall and the corner,
making sure it is level and securely attached to at least one wall.
STEP 5: Install the butcher block countertop by drilling extra-large guide
holes through the nailing strips on the base cabinet. Attach the countertop
with a short screws and washers. This allows the material to move as it
expands and contracts.
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STEP 6: Cut plywood to match the width of the stub wall and the height
6
from the countertop to the top of the wall opposite the stub wall.
STEP 7: Clad the stub wall on both sides with plywood, making a
cutout for the switch box. The plywood on the countertop side should
rest on the countertop. Shim underneath the plywood on the other
side of the stub wall to avoid direct contact with the floor and possible
water damage.
STEP 8: Measure the wall surfaces and cut tileboard to match the
dimensions. Coat the back of the tileboard with panel adhesive.
Position the tileboard on the plywood wall surfaces and rub aggressively
with balled-up towels to help seat the tileboard into the adhesive.
STEP 9: Attach a ledger to the wall leaving space for the upper cabinets
to be mounted with their tops flush to the top of the stub wall. The side
7
of the cabinets should butt the stub wall. Screw the cabinets through
their mounting strips, into wall studs. If the exposed cabinet end is not
finished, install an end panel to match the cabinet type or fabricate one
from 1/4" plywood.
STEP 10: Cut the plywood for the ceiling to the size and shape of
the space (if the ceiling is more than 96", make it in two pieces, so the
seam falls in the middle of the stub wall top plate). Cut tileboard and
attach it to the plywood face. The ceiling here is 24" wide above the
cabinet, cut back to 18" wide over the wall cabinets. This creates a
6" overhang above the cabinets so that an undercabinet light fixture
can be mounted.
8 9 10
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STEP 11: Plan the locations for the light fixtures and mount the housings and ceiling boxes to the side opposite
the tileboard.
STEP 12: Position the ceiling assembly over the laundry center and screw it to the stub wall top plate and the
cabinet sides.
STEP 13: Turn the main power off and make the wiring connections at the light fixtures and at the switch. If you’re
not comfortable handling this electrical work, hire a licensed electrician. You will need a wiring inspection before
making the final hookup at the power source.
13
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STEP 14: Measure and cut top trim pieces of 1 × 4" maple. Miter the ends and install the trim with wood glue and
finish nails. A pneumatic nailer will make the process go easier and faster.
STEP 15: Measure and rip vertical trim pieces for the stub wall edge and the opposite wall. For a more finished
look, round over the edges of the vertical trim pieces slightly. Install as you did with the top trim. Level and hook
up the washer and dryer.
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Compact Laundry Center
Although there may be no scientific evidence to prove it, we all know that there’s a direct
correlation between the quality of a laundry room space and how much we dread doing the
laundry. Cramped, cluttered, or poorly arranged utility spaces slow the work and add a general
sense of unpleasantness. And things get complicated when you can’t complete the laundry tasks
in the laundry room—you have to hang up your sweaters to dry over the bathtub and do all the
folding on the kitchen table.
I f this sounds familiar, you’ll be glad to know that it doesn’t take much to turn an ordinary laundry
area into an efficient storage and work center. Nor does it take a lot of space. The project shown
here requires only about nine feet of wall area, including where the washer and dryer go. And with
a few extra feet available on a nearby wall, you can add a hideaway ironing board that folds up into
a recessed cabinet when not in use.
The center makes best use of prefab cabinetry and easy-to-clean (and inexpensive) melamine
surfaces. The look of the finished installation is simple, crisp, and understated. That means the center
will complement just about any home décor and look nice for a long time to come.
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WHAT YOU NEED:
MATERIALS
⊲ 30"w × 24"h melamine-laminate ⊲ Melamine-laminate edge tape ⊲ Countertop end-cap kit
wall cabinet ⊲ Hanger rod with mounting brackets ⊲ Wood glue
⊲ 36"w × 30"h melamine-laminate ⊲ 1 × 2" pine ⊲ Ironing board cabinet for recessed
wall cabinet wall mounting
⊲ 2 × 2" pine
⊲ 31/2" heavy-duty wood screws ⊲ Drop hook (optional)
⊲ 31/2" and 21/2" deck screws
⊲ 3/4" melamine-covered particleboard
(laminated on both sides) ⊲ 21/4" finish nails
⊲ Polyurethane glue ⊲ 48" post-formed laminate
countertop (straight section)
⊲ 11/4" and 2" drywall screws
TOOLS
⊲ 4' level ⊲ Drywall saw ⊲ Household iron
⊲ Drill ⊲ Plumb bob ⊲ Eye and ear protection
⊲ Circular saw and straightedge guide ⊲ Stud finder ⊲ Work gloves
How to Build a Compact Laundry Center
STEP 1: Mark the cabinet locations on the wall, including level lines
1
to represent the cabinets’ top edges. Standard cabinet height is
84" above the floor, but make sure the washer door won’t block the
hanging shelf. Use a stud finder to locate and mark all of the wall
studs behind the cabinet locations.
STEP 2: Assemble the cabinets, if necessary. Position each
cabinet with its top edge flush to the level line, drill pilot holes,
and fasten through the back panel and into the wall studs with
at least four 31/2" heavy-duty wood screws (or install according 2
to the manufacturer’s directions).
STEP 3: Cut pieces of 3/4" melamine-covered particleboard for the
hanging shelf. Cut the top and bottom pieces equal to the cabinet
depth by the cabinet width, minus 11/2". Cut the side pieces equal to
the cabinet depth by the overall shelf height (as desired). Cut the
back panel equal to the cabinet depth by the shelf height, minus
11/2" in both directions.
3
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STEP 4: Construct the hanging shelf with polyurethane glue and
6
2" drywall screws. Cover the exposed edges and screw heads with
melamine-laminate edge tape. When the glue has cured, mount the
shelf to the bottom cabinet panel with 11/4" drywall screws driven
through pilot holes.
STEP 5: Mount the hanger rod to the sides of the cabinets with
the provided screws, using a level to ensure the rod is kept
level. Locate the rod as close as possible to the front edge of the
cabinets (without hindering door operation) and as high as you
can comfortably reach.
STEP 6: Mark the layout of the countertop and shelf unit onto 7
the wall. Draw level lines at 341/2" and at the desired height for the
shelf top minus 3/4". Draw plumb lines for the end panel at 461/2
and 471/4" from the side wall and for the shelf support at 227/8 and
235/8" from the side wall. Mark wall stud locations.
STEP 7: Following the layout lines, cut and install 2 × 2 wall
cleats for the countertop along the back and side walls. Fasten
the cleats to the wall studs with 31/2" deck screws. Cut and install
1 × 2 cleats for the shelf, shelf support, and end panel using
2½" deck screws or drywall screws.
8
STEP 8: Build the end panel and shelf to size at 34½" long by the
countertop depth minus 3/4". Cut the shelf at 461/2" long by the same
width as the end panel. Add a 2 × 2 cleat flush with the top edge
of the end panel. Fasten the shelf and end panel to the wall cleats
with polyurethane glue and 21/4" finish nails. Fasten through the end
panel and into the shelf edge with 2" screws.
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STEP 9: Cut the shelf support to fit underneath the shelf. Notch
9
the back edge to fit around the 1 × 2 wall cleat, then fasten the
support to the cleat and shelf with glue and 2¼" finish nails.
STEP 10: Prepare the countertop by cutting a stiffener panel
from ¾" particleboard to fit inside the edges on the underside of
the countertop. Fasten the panel with wood glue and 1¼" screws.
If desired, install an end cap kit onto the end opposite the side wall
following the manufacturer’s directions. Set the countertop in place
and secure it to the 2 × 2 cleats with 2" screws.
STEP 11: Begin the ironing board cabinet installation by locating
two adjacent wall studs and drawing level lines to mark the top
10 and bottom of the wall opening. Make sure there’s no wiring or
plumbing inside the wall cavity, then cut the drywall along the stud
edges and the level lines using a drywall saw.
STEP 12: Fit the cabinet into the wall opening and secure it to the
wall studs using the recommended screws. NOTE: Add a drop hook
on the inside of the cabinet door for hanging up ironed clothes
(inset). The hook drops down against the door when not in use.
11 12
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Hobby Center
All too often, homeowners try to cram space for their favorite crafting or art activities into other
areas, like a corner of the garage or a guest bedroom closet, where a fun pursuit becomes so
much less fun to do. It’s a dilemma, but one that is easily solved.
T he answer is to dedicate an area to the hobby you love, and the most space-efficient way to
do that is to take over the corner of a larger room. This hobby center can be tucked into the
far side of a living room, a sunny corner in your master bedroom, or even a little-used portion of a
large kitchen. Everything about the design and how it is laid out is focused on perfect efficiency and
providing comfort in the least amount of space possible.
Although it includes a sophisticated elements—an abundance of storage space courtesy of prefab
cabinets and a simple yet accommodating desktop—you won’t have to go to contractor’s school
to handle constructing this center. Just measure twice and cut once, and the rest is pretty much
straightforward installation. The laminate desktop configuration gives you both room to spread out a
project or stage supplies left and right, and three access points (center, left, and right) for you to move
a large project around or have helpers.
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WHAT YOU NEED:
MATERIALS
⊲ (2) 24 × 341/2" base cabinets ⊲ (1) 24 × 30" corner cabinet ⊲ Finish nails
⊲ (2) 18 × 30" upper cabinets ⊲ (2) 2 × 3" × 8 pine
⊲ L-shape 12 × 25 × 72" countertop ⊲ Drywall or deck screws
TOOLS
⊲ Pencil ⊲ Level or laser level ⊲ Miter saw
⊲ Tape measure ⊲ Drill/driver
HOBBY CENTER CUT LIST
KEY QTY PART NAME DIMENSION MATERIAL
A 2 Wall cleat 11/2 × 21/2 × 40" Pine
B 1 Diagonal cleat 11/2 × 21/2 × 59" Pine
C 1 L-shape countertop 11/2 × 25 × 72" Walnut
C
A A
B
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How to Build a Hobby Center
1 STEP 1: Measure and mark a level line for the upper
cabinets 521/2" above the floor, and projecting 42" out
on each side from the wall corner.
STEP 2: Locate and mark the wall studs below the
level line. Screw a temporary ledger to the wall studs
right below the level line, to support the cabinets
during installation.
STEP 3: Measure along the top of the base molding
from the corner, marking at 42" and 60" on the base
trim. (This is the location of each base cabinet.) Use
2 a combination square, and mark plumb lines down to
the floor. The 18" of base/shoe molding between the
lines will be removed to accept the base cabinets. In
the corner, measure up 341/2" (the height of the base
cabinet) from the floor and mark each side of the wall.
STEP 4: Transfer the location of the wall studs to
the insides of the cabinets for future reference, while
you’re holding the cabinets up in place. Subtract the
width of the cabinet sides when calculating.
3
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STEP 5: Set the upper center cabinet on the ledger
4
in the corner of the wall and screw it to studs, but do
not drive the screws all the way (this allows for a little
fine tuning).
STEP 6: Repeat for each end cabinet. Before fully
sinking the wall screws, clamp the cabinets together, drill
pilot holes in the cabinet sides or face frames, and screw
them together. Be sure the fronts of all the cabinets are
flush. Complete the process by driving all wall screws
tightly against the cabinet back. Install the cabinet doors.
5
STEP 7: Position the base cabinets at the layout lines
and screw them to the wall studs.
6
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7 8
9 STEP 8: The desktop will need to
be supported by a 3-piece ledger
construction. Cut and install 2 × 3 ledgers
along the wall, fastening with two 3"
screws into the wall studs. Note that the
second piece overlaps the first piece and
must be cut 11/2" shorter to fit. Measure
and cut the first piece to fit between
the wall and the inside edge of a base
cabinet. A piece just shy of 42" should fit.
STEP 9: Cut a 2 × 3 diagonal ledger brace
to 59" with opposing miters.
STEP 10: Predrill and preset screws in
the mitered ends of the diagonal brace
then install.
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STEP 11: Have a custom desktop made
12
to fit over the cabinets and into the corner,
or make your own. With the aid of a
helper, place the desktop on top of the
base cabinet/ledger system. Fine-tune the
desktop placement onto the layout marks.
STEP 12: Fasten the desktop from inside
the base cabinets as well as through the
ledger system’s diagonal brace. Fastening
through the diagonal brace requires
predrilling and installing screws on an
angle. Be careful not to puncture the top
surface of the desktop.
13
STEP 13: Caulk between the cabinet
edges and the wall as necessary. Clad the
base cabinet bottoms with base molding as
necessary and prime and paint the ledger
boards the same as the wall color. Install
an undercabinet light beneath the upper
cabinets to provide focused task lighting.
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Media Bar
No man cave (or woman cave, for that matter) is complete without an entertainment center, and
without some semblance of a bar full of refreshments and snacks. This project combines the best
of both worlds in a compact, handsome package just right for those homeowners who might not
have a large bonus room, basement, or garage to dedicate to such an entertainment space.
T he structure is confined to one wall, where you can hang a flat-screen TV, park a bachelor
refrigerator, and store plenty of edibles, glasses, and entertainment extras in the abundant cabinet
space. The false wall on which the TV is placed leaves space behind it to run cables and keep them
hidden. Because even a man cave should feature some style.
But perhaps the best benefit is that the final appearance looks like a custom unit built by a master
carpenter. That’s the benefit of opting for readymade cabinetry. Not only do these stock units make
everything quicker and easier, they also cut down on the skills and time the project will require, leaving
you more hours to just enjoy your favorite show—and a craft brew or two!
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WHAT YOU NEED:
MATERIALS
⊲ (5) 2 × 4" × 8' pine ⊲ Panel adhesive ⊲ (2) 24" wall cabinets
⊲ (2) 1 × 4" × 8' pine ⊲ (1) 1/2" × 4 × 8' finish-grade plywood ⊲ (1) 251/2" × 8' countertop
⊲ 11/4", 2", and 21/2" wood screws ⊲ (3) 24" base cabinets ⊲ Metal bracket
TOOLS
⊲ Studfinder ⊲ Jigsaw ⊲ Caulk gun
⊲ Carpenter’s pencil ⊲ Power drill and bits ⊲ Eye and ear protection
⊲ Table saw or circular saw and ⊲ Level ⊲ Work gloves
straightedge ⊲ 2" hole saw
MEDIA BAR CUT LIST
KEY QTY PART NAME DIMENSION MATERIAL
A 5 Wall frame studs 11/2 × 31/2 × 60" Pine
B 3 Wall frame cleats 3/4 × 31/2 × 47" Pine
C 1 Base cabinet cover panel 1/2 × 24 × 30" Birch plywood
D 1 Left frame side cover panel 1/2 × 41/4 × 60" Birch plywood
E 1 Right frame side cover panel 1/2 × 41/4 × 20" Birch plywood
F 1 Back splash panels 1/2 × 20 × 48" Birch plywood
G 1 Wall frame front cover panels 1/2 × 48 × 60" Birch plywood
H 1 Wall cabinet side cover panel 1/2 × 85/8 × 40" Birch plywood
I 1 Front toe kick 1/2 × 41/2" × 24" Pine
J 1 or 2 Side toe kick 1/2 × 41/2" × 24" Pine
A H
D
B F
E
G
C
J I
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2 4a
How to Build a Media Bar 4b
STEP 1: Locate and mark the wall stud locations. Follow the manufacturers'
instructions to assemble the wall and base cabinet frames if not
preassembled. If the doors and drawers are not attached to the cabinets,
wait to install them until after the cover panels are attached.
STEP 2: Fasten the two wall cabinets using the method recommended by
the manufacturer for the cabinet. Here, a metal bracket is attached to the
wall and then the cabinet is fastened to the metal bracket.
STEP 3: Line up the base cabinets a few feet away from the wall, positioning 5
them in the order that they will be installed. Measure the distance to the wall
outlet from the end of the cabinets and from the floor and transfer those
measurements to the back of the cabinet to mark the outlet location.
STEP 4: Trace outlines for the access holes in the back panel and top
spreader on the cabinet that will be installed in front of the wall outlet. Drill
3/8" saw-blade starter holes at each corner of the outline. Use a jigsaw to cut
a 3"-wide × 5"-tall hole through the cabinet back panel exactly where the
outlet will be located.
STEP 5: Cut the countertop access hole. Attach masking tape to the 7
countertop to help prevent chipping the surface when it is cut. Mark the
access notch outline on the countertop. Drill 3/8"-dia. saw blade starter hole
and cut the notch with a jigsaw.
STEP 6: Attach the countertop to the cabinets. Drive 1 5/8" screws through
the cabinet top and into the countertop. Be careful not to overdrive the
screws and break through the top surface of the countertop.
STEP 7: Cut the 2 × 4 wall frame posts and 1 × 4 cleats to length and
assemble them with 2" wood screws. Place this wall frame on the
countertop and against the wall cabinet. Screw the wall frame to the
drywall with 2½" drywall screws driven through the wall frame cleats and
into studs. Drive three screws into each stud.
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STEP 8: Route speaker cables or other component cables from other
8
areas of the room behind the wall frame. Cover the frame with the
finish panels. (Cables that run between the TV, sound bar speaker, and
components in the cabinet are routed after the cabinet construction is
complete.) Each panel is attached with screws and panel adhesive; the
screws are driven through the inside face of the cabinet or wall frame.
STEP 9: Measure the width of the space below the wall cabinets and
divide that measurement by two. This is backsplash panel width. Cut the
backsplash panels to size by cutting from the back, with masking tape
over the cut line. Use an 80-tooth-per-inch plywood blade. Cut openings
in the panel to fit around any wall outlet. Attach the backsplash panels
with panel adhesive.
9
STEP 10: Cut the two frame-side cover panels to size, using a circular saw
and straightedge guide. Apply panel adhesive to the back face of each
panel, clamp them to the wall frame, and secure them with panel adhesive
and 15/8" screws. Drill a 1/8" countersunk pilot hole.
STEP 11: Measure the distance from the face of the front panel to the front
edge of the wall cabinet. Add the thickness of the door to determine the
width of the wall cabinet side cover panel.
STEP 12: Attach the wall- and base-cabinet side panels. Clamp the
panel to the cabinet side and drive 1" screws through the inside face of
12
the cabinet side. Install the toe kicks, doors, and drawers.
STEP 13: Use a 2" hole saw to bore an access hole through the wall
frame front panel. This hole should be located directly above the notch in
the countertop and close to the TV mounting bracket so that the TV will
conceal it. Drive the mounting bracket anchor screws into the wall frame
posts. If you are installing a speaker above the TV, drill a 3/4" hole behind
the speaker location to route the speaker cable.
STEP 14: Fish the component cables and speaker cable through the
access holes and behind the front panels. Follow the manufacturer
instructions to secure the TV to the mounting bracket and mount
13
the speaker.
MEDIA BAR 133
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Towel Tower
Keeping towels in order is key
to keeping bathroom clutter to a
minimum. That can be a monumental
challenge in a busy household full of
people, because these are daily use
textiles. With a spouse and children
on hectic schedules, you may have
four or more towels in constant
rotation. Add that to the usual
bathroom debris—clothing odds and
ends, extra toilet paper, and more—
and you have a real need for some
organizational help in a common
bathroom. Enter this towel tower.
W ith the help of an over-the-
refrigerator cabinet (what is
also know as a “bridge cabinet”)
and a few other widely available bits
and pieces, you can build the perfect
organizer and one that looks unique
and attractive. Suitable even for small
bathrooms, this towel tower adds
texture and color to the space. If that
wasn’t enough, the board that tops
the bottom cabinet adds seating.
The beadboard backing for this
project is made with painted 3/8"
tongue-and-groove pine, sometimes
called “carsiding.” The look is a little
bit country, but you can use whatever
color of paint or wood finish you desire
to tailor the look to your own design
tastes. Also keep in mind that despite
its name, this tower will work just as
well in large open hallway or common
space that sees a lot of clothing
clutter, or even a mudroom entryway,
where it could corral outerwear and
give visitors a place to take boots and
shoes on and off.
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WHAT YOU NEED:
MATERIALS
⊲ 32 sq. ft. tongue-and-groove paneling ⊲ 3' crown molding ⊲ Towel hooks
⊲ (1) 15"h × 30"w × 24"d over-fridge cabinet ⊲ Half sheet 3/4" MDF ⊲ Fasteners
⊲ (2) 1 × 6" × 8' pine ⊲ 12' quarter-round molding ⊲ Paint, stain, or other finish
TOOLS
⊲ Tape measure ⊲ Circular saw ⊲ Paintbrush
⊲ Carpenter’s pencil ⊲ Straightedge ⊲ Pneumatic nailer (optional)
⊲ Router and bits ⊲ Level ⊲ Eye and ear protection
⊲ Power drill and bits ⊲ Hammer ⊲ Work gloves
CUSTOM LAUNDRY CENTER CUT LIST
D
KEY QTY PART NAME DIMENSION MATERIAL
A 1 Seatboard 3/4 × 25 × 32* MDF
B 8 T&G paneling 3/8 × 51/2 × 711/2"** Pine
B C 2 Towel hook backers 3/4 × 51/2 × 27" Pine 1 × 6
D 36" Crown molding Cut to fit (w / miters) Pine
E 12' 1/4-round molding Cut to fit Pine
F 2 Overfridge cabinet 15 × 30 × 24" Stock cabinet
C * Finished size: requires slightly larger board for machining
** Length equals distance from top of seatboard to ceiling minus 1/2"
E
A
F
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How to Build a Towel Tower
STEP 1: Cut a piece of medium density fiberboard (MDF) 1" wider than
1
the cabinet and a couple of inches longer front-to-back (here, 26" for the
24" cabinet). Use a piloted ogee or roundover bit in the router to shape
the front and sides of the seat board.
STEP 2: Screw through the mounting strips on the cabinet top and into
the underside of the seat board. The seat’s back edge should be flush with
the back edge of the cabinet and the overhang should be equal on both
sides. Clamp the blank in location on the cabinet, then lay the cabinet on
its back for better access.
STEP 3: Remove the baseboard and any other obstructions and shim
underneath and behind the cabinet as needed to make it level and plumb.
Screw the cabinet to the wall with 2" drywall screws, driven into studs.
2 STEP 4: Lay the beadboard out with tongues fit in grooves. Measure in
one direction, half the width of base cabinet, from the midpoint line in the
center board. Rip the outside boards as necessary to fit the project area.
STEP 5: Clamp a straightedge over a tongue-and-groove board, placing
a piece of scrap plywood underneath as a backer. Rip cut the board to the
correct thickness for the filler piece.
4 5
3
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STEP 6: Use a level to extend
6 7
plumb lines directly up the wall
from the outside edges of the seat.
Mark the stud locations on the
seat and ceiling with tape. Begin
installing the beadboard on the left
side, with the left trimmed board.
In most cases, the tongue will be
preserved on this board and should
be oriented inward.
STEP 7: Continue installing boards
until you reach the right edge.
Use plenty of adhesive and drive
several nails when you hit a wall
stud. If the beadboard joints don’t
fall on a stud, tack the board over 8
a stud by face-nailing once at the
top and once at the bottom. NOTE:
The towel hook mounting boards
will help hold the beadboard once
attached at studs. Cut the towel
hook boards to length from 1 × 6
stock and screw them in place.
STEP 8: Install quarter-round or
base shoe molding at the top edge
of the seat where it meets the
beadboard. Tie the molding back to
the wall with mitered returns. Attach
crown molding at the top, creating
9
mitered returns at the ends.
STEP 9: Finish the structure as
desired. Measure and mark for
the placement of the towel hooks.
Screw them to the backers.
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Crown Molding Shelf
Want to build an elegant, eye-catching shelf that is just the right dimension to store and
display your collectibles in sight but out of the way? If so, this shelf is for you. It is a built-up,
wall-mounted platform that is a fun combination of rough and finish carpentry, totally doable
regardless of how much experience you have working with wood.
T his crown-molding shelf is essentially a built-up box beam with crown molding as the featured trim.
It is a sophisticated three-part shelf similar in assembly to cornice molding made with pine and
pine moldings. It is wonderfully customizable; not only can you choose from an amazing diversity of
crown molding styles, you can also paint the shelves any color of the rainbow or stain or finish them to
leverage the character of the wood.
Hang new shelves at just about any height, although they naturally look more comfortable higher
up on the wall. The most pleasing location will be slightly above eye level for the average person in
the house. Locating the shelves so the bottom edge rests on top of a door casing is a good strategy
and a unique look. Not only are these built-in shelves totally homemade, the usage is adaptable to
different needs and tastes. For example, you can wrap the entire room with multiples of these shelves,
or place the shelf on one wall.225997 - Black & Decker Readymade Home Furniture_001-144.indd 138 30/8/18 10:49 AM 225997 - Black & Decker Readymade Home Furniture_001-144.indd 138 30/8/18 2:21 PM Title: 225997 - Black & Decker Readymade Home Furniture Text Black Page:138
WHAT YOU NEED:
MATERIALS
⊲ 31/2" GRK screws ⊲ Panel adhesive ⊲ Pine or oak boards
⊲ 150-grit sandpaper ⊲ Wood putty ⊲ 2 x 4s
⊲ 23/4" flathead wood screws ⊲ Paint, stain, or other finish ⊲ Eye and ear protection
⊲ 6d finish nails ⊲ Crown molding ⊲ Work gloves
TOOLS
⊲ Table saw ⊲ Power drill and bits ⊲ Nail set
⊲ Miter saw ⊲ Tape measure ⊲ Putty knife
⊲ Palm sander ⊲ Square ⊲ Paintbrush
⊲ Level or laser level ⊲ Caulk gun
CROWN MOLDING SHELF CUT LIST
KEY QTY PART NAME DIMENSION MATERIAL
A 1 Shelf top 3/4 × 71/4" × length Pine or oak
B 1 Shelf bottom 3/4 × 23/4" × length Pine or oak
C 1 Shelf front 3/4 × 41/2" × length Pine or oak
D 1* Crown 3/4 × 41/4" × length Crown molding
E 1 Ledger 11/2 × 31/2" × length Pine
F 1 or 2 Filler (opt.) 3/4 × 23/4 × 31/2" Pine or oak
* Make mitered return if end of shelf is open
A
D
C
E
B
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How to Construct a Crown Molding Shelf
STEP 1: Use a laser level to create a
1
level reference line for the shelf ledger
installation. Mark the location of the bottom
edge of the ledger, making sure to allow
room for the bottom panel above the door
trim and for the full height of the finished
project. NOTE: If you want your shelving
flush with the top of a door or window
casing and you find it is close to level
(within 1/4"), use the highest opening as the
control point for your layout and fill the gap
that’ll be created over the other windows
with caulk. 3
STEP 2: Cut a straight 2 × 4 to length and
use a stud finder to locate wall studs in the
installation area. Mark them just below
the level line.
STEP 3: Apply panel adhesive to the back
of the ledger and position it so the bottom
edge falls just above the level line and the
ends are in the correct spot. Drive a pair of
31/2" GRK screws through the ledger and 5
into the studs at each location.
STEP 4: Install molding pieces from
the bottom and work your way up.
Rip wood for the bottom panel to width
(23/4" here) and cut it to length. Finish
sand all wood parts with 150-grit sandpaper
before installing.
6
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STEP 5: On the bottom strip, drill a
7
countersunk pilot hole every 12", located
in a line 3/4" in from the back edge of the
strip. Attach the bottom strip to the ledger
with panel adhesive and 23/4" flathead
wood screws.
STEP 6: Crosscut the top panel to length
and then attach it to the top of the ledger
with panel adhesive and 6d finish nails.
The ends should be flush with the bottom
strip ends, and the top panel should be
butted cleanly against the wall.
STEP 7: Measure the distance from the
front face of the ledger to the front edge of
9
the bottom strip and cut a few spacers to
this length from scrap. Attach the spacers
to the face of the ledger at several spots
along the length of the ledger. These will
ensure that the front panel is vertical when
it is positioned against the spacers.
STEP 8: Rip and crosscut the front panel
to width and length. Press it against the
spacers so the top edge is flush against
the underside of the top panel and all ends
are aligned. Drill pilot holes and drive 6d
finish nails through the front panel and into
the edge of the bottom strip. (You can also
nail at the spacer locations if you wish.)
10
STEP 9: Drill pilot holes and drive nails
through the top panel and into the top
edge of the front panel. Set the nail heads
with a nail set. Putty over them, sand, and
paint or finish the shelves as desired.
STEP 10: Cut crown molding to length
and fit it between the top panel and the
front panel. Attach with 6d finish nails,
paint or stain, as desired.
CROWN MOLDING SHELF 141
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metric Conversion Chart
CONVERTING MEASUREMENTS
TO CONVERT: TO: MULTIPLY BY: TO CONVERT: TO: MULTIPLY BY:
Inches Millimeters 25.4 Millimeters Inches 0.039
Inches Centimeters 2.54 Centimeters Inches 0.394
Feet Meters 0.305 Meters Feet 3.28
Yards Meters 0.914 Meters Yards 1.09
Square inches Square centimeters 6.45 Square centimeters Square inches 0.155
Square feet Square meters 0.093 Square meters Square feet 10.8
Square yards Square meters 0.836 Square meters Square yards 1.2
Cubic inches Cubic centimeters 16.4 Cubic centimeters Cubic inches 0.061
Cubic feet Cubic meters 0.0283 Cubic meters Cubic feet 35.3
Cubic yards Cubic meters 0.765 Cubic meters Cubic yards 1.31
Pounds Kilograms 0.454 Kilograms Pounds 2.2
LUMBER DIMENSIONS
ACTUAL–US ACTUAL–US
NOMINAL–US METRIC NOMINAL–US METRIC
(IN INCHES) (IN INCHES)
1×2 3⁄4 × 1½ 19 × 38 mm 2×4 1½ × 3½ 38 × 89 mm
1×3 ¾ × 2½ 19 × 64 mm 2×6 1½ × 5½ 38 × 140 mm
1×4 ¾ × 3½ 19 × 89 mm 2×8 1½ × 7¼ 38 × 184 mm
1×6 ¾ × 5½ 19 × 140 mm 2 × 10 1½ × 9¼ 38 × 235 mm
1×8 ¾ × 7¼ 19 × 184 mm 2 × 12 1½ × 11¼ 38 × 286 mm
1 × 10 ¾ × 9¼ 19 × 235 mm 4×4 3½ × 3½ 89 × 89 mm
1 × 12 ¾ × 11¼ 19 × 286 mm 4×6 3½ × 5½ 89 × 140 mm
2×2 1½ × 1½ 38 × 38 mm 6×6 5½ × 5½ 140 × 140 mm
2×3 1½ × 2½ 38 × 64 mm 8×8 7¼ × 7¼ 184 × 184 mm
COUNTERBORE, SHANK, &
METRIC PLYWOOD PILOT HOLE DIAMETERS (INCHES)
COUNTERBORE CLEARANCE PILOT HOLE DIAMETER
STANDARD SANDED SCREW DIAMETER FOR HOLE FOR HARD SOFT
SHEATHING GRADE GRADE SIZE SCREW HEAD SCREW SHANK WOOD WOOD
7.5 mm (5⁄16") 6 mm (4⁄17") #1 (9⁄64) 5⁄64 3⁄64 1⁄32
9.5 mm (3⁄8") 8 mm (5⁄16") #2 ¼ 3⁄32 3⁄64 1⁄32
12.5 mm (½") 11 mm (7⁄16") #3 ¼ 7⁄64 1⁄16 3⁄64
15.5 mm (5⁄8") 14 mm (9⁄16") #4 ¼ 1⁄8 1⁄16 3⁄64
18.5 mm (¾") 17 mm (2⁄3") #5 ¼ 1⁄8 5⁄64 1⁄16
20.5 mm (13⁄16") 19 mm (3⁄4") #6 5⁄16 9⁄64 3⁄32 5⁄64
22.5 mm (7⁄8") 21 mm (13⁄16") #7 5⁄16 5⁄32 3⁄32 5⁄64
25.5 mm (1") 24 mm (15⁄16") #8 3⁄8 11⁄64 1⁄8 3⁄32
#9 3⁄8 11⁄64 1⁄8 3⁄32
#10 3⁄8 3⁄16 1⁄8 7⁄64
#11 ½ 3⁄16 5⁄32 9⁄64
#12 ½ 7⁄32 9⁄64 1⁄8
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Index
abrasive blades, 19 cutting tools finishing, 22
acrylic adhesives, 11 circular saws, 18 copper pipe, 43
adhesives hacksaws, 17–18 Five-Gallon Planter, 91–93
acrylic adhesives, 11 handsaws, 17 floors, securing projects to, 13–15
construction adhesive, 10 jigsaws, 18
epoxies, 10 miter saws, 18–19 gloves, 24–25
guidelines for, 10–11 reciprocating saws, 18 glues
plastic adhesives, 11 snap cutters, 20–21 cyanoacrylate glues, 9–11
solvent cement, 11 table saws, 19 guidelines for, 10–11
urethane, 11 cyanoacrylate glues, 9–11 polyurethane glues, 10
See also glues wood glues, 9
Aluminum Sheet Lamp, 71–75 diamond blades, 19 See also adhesives
angle grinders, 58–59 diffuser panels, 65 GRK screws, 9
drill bits grommets, 12
bathrooms, 134 carbide-tipped bits, 15, 17
Bedroom or Entryway Bench, cobalt bits, 15, 17 hacksaws, 17–18
76–81 countersink bits, 15, 17 handsaws, 17
Bed Surround, 106–109 drill-bit depth gauges, 17 Hobby Center, 124–129
belt sanders, 23 hole saws, 15, 17
Bird House, 99–103 HSS (High-Speed Steel) bits, 15, 17 ironing board cabinet, 123
birdhouses step bits, 15, 17 iron pipe, 31–35
Bird House project, 99–103 drilling holes
hole size by species, 103 bits for, 15, 17 jigsaws, 18
placement consideration, drill-bit depth gauges, 17
100–101 drilling jigs, 15 ladders, 27
bolts, 9 guidelines for, 15 light fixtures, 83, 85
branches, 97 pilot hole dimensions and, 15 Aluminum Sheet Lamp, 71–75
drills, 16 power for, 111, 118
ceramic tile, 86, 89 drywall screws, 9 Living Wall, 83–85
chop saws, 18–19 dust masks, 26
Chunky Club Chair, 60–63 Maple Molding Room Divider,
circular saws, 18 ear protection, 25–26 64–69
Closet Home Office, 111–113 electrical service, 111 Media Bar, 130–133
clothing, 26 epoxies, 9–11 Message Center, 94–97
Compact Laundry Center, 120–123 metal
concrete, 91–93 fabric cutout designs in sheet, 71–75
construction adhesive, 10 joining, 12 cutting, 20–21
continuous-cut blades, 19 planting pockets, 83 joining, 12
copper pipe fasteners miter saws, 18–19
Copper Pipe Pot Rack, 41–43 adhesives, 9–11 molly bolts, 15
sealing, 43 fabric joining, 12 mudrooms, 31, 134
soldering, 42–43 glues, 9–11
Copper Pipe Pot Rack, 41–43 metal joining, 12 nails, 8
Countertop Wine Rack, 44–47 nails, 8 nuts, 9
Crown Molding Shelf, 138–141 nuts and bolts, 9
Custom Laundry Center, 114–119 plastic joining, 11 orbital sanders, 23, 79
cutting techniques rubber joining, 12
cut lines, 19–20 screws, 8–9 paint, 22
metal cutting, 20–21 specialized material joining, 12 choosing the right, 24
precise measurement and, 21–22 wood joining, 12 palm, sanders, 23
prevention of splintering, 20 zip ties, 11 PEX pipe, 8
INDEX 143
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pilot holes, 15 saw blades, 19 wiring, 111
Plant Stand, 86–89 segmented blades, 19 wood
plastic, joining, 11 sheet metal snips, 20 joining, 12
polyurethane glues, 10 sheet plywood, 31–35 MDF, 48, 52
power tools sheet sanders, 23 molding, 64–69
angle grinders, 58–59 shelves, precut, 44 nominal size vs. actual size, 21
circular saws, 18 shelving precut shelves, 44
drills, 16 Crown Molding Shelf, 138–141 pre-milled table legs, 78
jigsaws, 18 Utility Organizer, 31–35 reclaimed lumber, 63
miter saws, 18–19 S hooks, 41 SPF wood, 48
orbital sanders, 79 snap cutters, 20–21 tongue-and-groove pine, 134
palm sanders, 23 solvent cement, 11 wood glues, 9
random orbital sanders, 79 Spax screws, 9
reciprocating sanders, 18 square-drive screws, 8 zip ties, 11
safety and, 26–27 stain, 22
table saws, 19 stock cabinet projects
Pozidrive screws, 8–9 about, 104
PVC trim Bed Surround, 106–109
coloring, 39 Closet Home Office, 111–113
Trim-and-Rope Mat, 37–39 Compact Laundry Center,
120–123
random orbital sanders, 79 Custom Laundry Center, 114–119
reciprocating saws, 18 Hobby Center, 124–129
respirators, 26 Media Bar, 130–133
Robertson screws, 8 Towel Tower, 134–137
Rolling Bar Cart, 54–57 stud finders, 13–14
routers, 22
rubber, joining, 12 table legs, pre-milled, 78
table saws, 19
safety Tasting Table, 48–53
clothing, 26 tileboard, 114
dust masks/respirators, 26 tin snips, 20
ear protection, 25–26 Torx screws, 8–9
gloves, 24–25 Towel Tower, 134–137
ladder use and, 27 Trim-and-Rope Mat, 37–39
power tools and, 26–27 turbo blades, 19
safety glasses, 25
safety glasses, 25 urethane, 11
sanding techniques, 23 Utility Organizer, 31–35
cleanliness and, 24
tooth and, 24 wall anchors
sandpaper expansion vs. hollow cavity, 14
aluminum oxide, 24 molly bolts, 15
ceramic alumina, 24 plastic expansion, 14
emery, 23 threaded, 14
garnet, 23 toggles/winged, 14–15
sanding grits, 23 walls
silicon carbide, 24 finding studs in, 13–14
types of, 22–23 wall anchors, 14–15
zirconia alumina, 24 water catchers, 85
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Rather have me do it?
Carpentry is my craft. Shelves, trim, doors — built to last.