Black & Decker the Complete Guide to DIY Greenhouses - Build Your Own Greenhouses, Hoophouses

In this chapter:

• Choosing a Greenhouse

• Where to Site Your Greenhouse

• Greenhouse Elements

There are many different reasons to choose a given greenhouse. The owner of this yard opted for a traditional crested, aluminum-framed, glass-enclosed model. The use of clear glass instead of semiopaque plastic allows the greenhouse to be used for meals and relaxing (thus, the table) as well as growing favorite plants.

Attached to the exterior wall of the house, this lean-to-style greenhouse has all the features for complete growing success: running water (A); electrical service (B); a heated plant-propagation table (C); a heater (D) for maintaining temperatures on cold nights; ventilating windows (E) and sunshades (F) for reducing temperatures on hot days; drip irrigation system (G) for maintaining potted plants; a full-length potting bench (H) with storage space beneath; paved flooring (I) to retain solar heat.

You might save money by choosing a smaller greenhouse, but if you don’t have usable room to grow everything you want to grow, you aren’t getting real value out of the structure. This beautiful redwood-framed, prefab unit may be a little pricey, but it offers abundant counter, shelf, and work-surface space as well as quality construction and glazing meant to last decades.

The ideal greenhouse location is well away from trees but protected from prevailing winds, usually by another structure, a fence, or a wall.

Climate, Shelter & Soil Stability

Your local climate and geography have an impact on the location of your greenhouse. Choose a site that is sheltered from high winds and far enough away from trees that roots and falling branches are not a threat. (Try to position the greenhouse away from areas in which children play, too.) If you live in a windy area, consider planting a hedge or building a fence to provide a windbreak, but be careful that it doesn’t cast shade on the greenhouse. Avoid low-lying areas, which are prone to trapping cold, humid air.

Access

Try to locate your greenhouse as close to the house as possible. Connecting to utilities will be easier, and you’ll be glad when you’re carrying bags of soil and supplies from the car. Furthermore, a shorter walk will make checking on plants less of a chore when the weather turns ugly.

Aesthetics

Although you want to ensure that plants have the perfect growing environment, don’t ignore aesthetics. The greenhouse should look good in your yard. Ask yourself whether you want it to be a focal point—to draw the eye and make a statement—or to blend in with the garden. Either way, try to suit the design and the materials to your home. Keep space in mind, too, if you think you might eventually expand the greenhouse.

For maximum heat gain, orient your greenhouse so the roof or wall with the most surface area is as close to perpendicular to the sunrays as it can be.

A greenhouse is composed of several major systems that perform important functions. When planning your greenhouse, you’ll need to make choices about each system, which include the foundation, floor, frame, glazing, ventilation, watering, heat, storage, and more.

Earth anchors, or anchor stakes, are often used to tie down very lightweight greenhouses and crop covers to prevent them from blowing away. A typical anchor is a long metal rod with a screw-like auger end that is driven into the ground. An eye at the top end is used for securing a cable or other type of tether attached to the greenhouse.

Timber foundations are simple frames made with 4 × 4, 6 × 6, or larger landscape timbers. The timber frame is laid over a leveled and compacted gravel base (which can also double as the floor or floor subbase for the greenhouse interior) and pinned to the ground with rebar stakes. One level, or course, of timbers is suitable for small greenhouses, while two courses are recommended for larger structures.

A concrete footing provides a structural base for a large greenhouse or a masonry kneewall. Standard footings are continuous and run along the perimeter of the structure. They must extend below the frost line (the depth to which the ground can freeze in winter; varies by climate) to prevent frost heave and should be at least twice as wide as the greenhouse walls they support.

Pier footings are structural concrete columns poured in tube forms set below the frost line—the same foundation used to support deck posts. Pier foundations are appropriate for some kit and custom greenhouses and are often used on large commercial hoop-style houses. Anchor bolts embedded in the wet concrete provide fastening points for the greenhouse base or wall members.

A poured concrete floor is stable and washable, and requires no routine maintenance.

Concrete pavers set in sand offer a longlasting, stable floorcovering that breathes and allows for good drainage.

Pathway gravel is the easiest and cheapest flooring to install. Pea gravel, trap rock, and some river stones are good for both drainage and cleanliness. Highly compactible materials, such as decomposed granite, remain solid and level underfoot but leave a lot of grit on your shoes (if that’s a concern). In any case, choose a material that’s comfortable to walk on; loose or large gravel or stones can be unstable.

Wood

Advantages: Wood is often selected for custom greenhouse framing because of the many beautiful species available. The bonus with a wood frame is that it won’t conduct heat as quickly as metal or plastic and will be less likely to shed potentially harmful condensation. It is also long lasting and durable. These qualities come at a higher cost than that of other materials, but the price tag also buys an extremely beautiful greenhouse structure. Some of the best woods for greenhouses are cedar and redwood, because both are naturally resistant to rot and insects and age well, whether finished or unfinished. Hardwoods also offer these benefits, but the cost is usually prohibitive for a hobby greenhouse. The practical choice for a utilitarian greenhouse is pressure-treated wood. In either case, wood is a wise choice if you are planning on hanging baskets or accessories from the framing, or if you intend to put up shelving.

A pine frame with plastic glazing. This is a good option for a lightweight and inexpensive greenhouse that will be used for two or three seasons during the year.

Choose redwood for a greenhouse frame that will last years and provide an incomparable appearance to the structure.

Aluminum

Advantages: The foremost advantage of aluminum is that it is low maintenance. It is also strong and lightweight, lasts longer than wood, and can easily accommodate different glazing systems and connectors. Aluminum is used in many greenhouse kits and can be powder-coated or anodized in various colors (although the most common are white, black, and green). Aluminum greenhouse kits are typically easy to assemble and come with predrilled holes for attachments, connections, and fixtures. Some manufacturers offer “thermally broken” aluminum frames, which are made by sandwiching a thermal barrier between two layers of extruded aluminum to decrease heat loss through the frame.

This simple kit greenhouse includes a basic aluminum frame with durable polycarbonate framing.

An upscale example of a handsome prefab, aluminum-framed greenhouse. The crest and finial are finished in long-lasting baked enamel. A crest like this, as well as adding flair to the greenhouse’s look, also keeps birds from perching on the ridge—which in turn keeps the panels cleaner.

Galvanized Steel

Advantages: Galvanized steel frames are most often used for commercial greenhouses because the material is incredibly sturdy, strong, and durable. It can stand up to severe weather and resists corrosion and fatigue.

PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride)

Advantages: PVC tubes are used in less expensive kits for hoophouses and greenhouses. The tubes make for a very low-cost frame that is durable and lightweight. The material does not rot and is entirely resistant to insects. It is also easy to clean, and although not distinctive in appearance, it looks neat and tidy. PVC frames are usually used in greenhouses meant to be portable and for beginner or intermediate gardeners.

A simple hoophouse frame like this is easy to assemble and doesn’t require a serious investment in money or expertise.

Glass

Advantages: Glass is the traditional material used for greenhouse glazing, and it remains popular today for good reason. If undamaged, the material will last forever. It offers some of the best light transmission among glazing materials, doesn’t degrade under long exposure to UV radiation, and is exceedingly easy to clean. It boasts surprising tensile strength—in a frame, it can hold up to a lot of stress and wind load. Although single-pane glazing has poor insulating properties, the R-value can easily be raised by purchasing double- or even triple-pane glazing.

This stunning redwood greenhouse combines the best of both worlds—the beauty and view through clear glass windows on all walls and frosted polycarbonate panels on the roof to diffuse light.

Fiberglass

Advantages: Manufacturers have vastly improved fiberglass panel formulation since the material first debuted as a potential substitute for glass panels in homes and outbuildings. Modern fiberglass panels are UV resistant and formulated to resist yellowing under prolonged sun exposure—a key problem in early panels. This material transmits almost as much light as glass does, but also diffuses that light. Fiberglass also provides much better heat retention than glass. The best panels now come with 15- or 20-year warranties.

Fiberglass panels come in clear, white, and colored varieties, such as the green shown here. The ridged panels can be challenging to install, so manufacturers supply wavy nailing strips (called “closure strips”) that make installation as easy as nailing flat panels.

Acrylic (Plexiglas)

Advantages: Acrylic panels offer excellent light transmission, similar to glass, but in a lighter material that is incredibly durable and impact resistant. The material is also UV resistant and can be molded into unusual shapes. Acrylic is less expensive than polycarbonate, and is easy drill, cut, or shape. It can also be coated to reduce condensation.

Polycarbonate

Advantages: Polycarbonate panels are light, strong, and shatter resistant. Multiwall versions retain heat far better than glass does; the panels are available in basic corrugated form, but the more prevalent types of panels are multiwalled. Manufacturers offer panels with between two and five walls—the more walls, the greater the heat retention and the lower the light transmission. The panels also come in clear and white varieties for greater light diffusion. The material is tough and durable; warranties typically run 10 to 15 years for quality polycarbonate. It is also very easy to work with and difficult to break.

Polyethylene & PVC

Advantages: Greenhouse sheet coverings—primarily polyethylene plastic, but also including some PVC products—are inexpensive, easy to work with, incredibly lightweight, and adaptable to unusual shapes. They come in different thicknesses, with thicker sheet products slightly better at retaining heat without much loss in light transmission. These products usually come in white (although you can buy clear), which ensures that transmitted light is diffused and won’t burn plant leaves. The sheeting can be doubled up, which cuts down significantly on light transmission, or layers can be attached to both the outside and the inside of a structure, for improved heat retention.

Double-wall clear polycarbonate.

Triple-wall polycarbonate.

Double-wall white polycarbonate.

A rain barrel can provide a ready supply of water for your greenhouse. It’s an easy water supply option, but it lacks the convenience of linking the greenhouse to your house’s water supply system.

A seasonal water supply line is similar to an all-season setup but somewhat easier to install and is just as convenient for everyday use. The supply line connects to a cold-water pipe inside the house and runs through an exterior wall above the foundation, then down into a trench (above photo). At the house-end of the trench, the initial supply run connects to the underground line (typically PE tubing) inside a valve box. The box provides easy access to a T-fitting necessary for freeze-proofing the line each fall. The supply run is buried in a 10”-deep trench (or per local code) and connects to copper tubing and a standard garden spigot inside the greenhouse.

Winterize a seasonal supply line using a shutoff valve with an air nipple. With the valve closed and the greenhouse spigot open, blow compressed air (50 psi max.) into the line to remove any water in the tubing. Then, remove the plug from the T-fitting inside the valve box (photo top right) and store it for the winter.

A greenhouse with a water supply of any sort should also have a drain. A dry well can be made with an old trash can or other container perforated with holes and filled with coarse rock. The well sits in a pit about 2’ in diameter by about 3’ deep and is covered with landscape fabric and soil. Dry wells are for draining graywater only—no animal waste, food scraps, or hazardous materials.

This automatic drip-watering system is fed by a garden hose that connects to the mixing tank. In the tank, water and fertilizer are blended to a custom ratio and then distributed to plants at an adjustable rate via a network of hoses, drip pins, and Y-connectors.

NOTE: The spiral trellis supports hanging from the greenhouse roof are not part of the watering system.

Misting is a very gentle method of providing moisture to plants. Misting heads mounted on spray poles (inset) can be controlled manually or automatically. In addition to maintaining a constant state of moistness for plants, a misting system will give your greenhouse a tropical environment that many gardeners enjoy.

Misting

When the temperature inside the greenhouse rises and the vents open, they release humidity. Misting increases humidity, which most plants love—levels of about 50 percent to 65 percent are ideal—and dramatically decreases the temperature by as much as 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Misting systems are available through greenhouse suppliers. You can buy a complete system, which may include nozzles, tubing, PVC pipe, a humidistat, and sometimes a hard-water filter and a pressure gauge. Or you can buy the parts separately to create a customized system. The size of the greenhouse will determine the size of the system. Larger greenhouses need more nozzles and in turn more tubing and pipe.

Incandescent

Ordinary tungsten incandescent bulbs are inexpensive, readily available, and a good source of red rays, but they are deficient in blue light. They can be useful for extending daylight for some plants and for supplementing low light levels, but they are not an efficient primary source of light. Incandescent lights produce a lot of heat—hanging them too close to plants can burn foliage, but if you hang them at a safe distance, they don’t provide enough intensity for plant growth. The average life span of an incandescent bulb is about 1,000 hours.

Fluorescent

Fluorescent tubes are more expensive than incandescent bulbs, but the higher cost is amply offset by their longevity and efficiency: bulb life for fluorescents is about 10,000 hours, and they provide the same amount of light as incandescents with only one-quarter to one-third the amount of energy. They also produce much less heat than incandescent bulbs.

The right lighting in a greenhouse increases the number of hours you can work in the structure each day and expands the growing season and growing hours of plants.

Fluorescent is a better source of growth-stimulating light for your greenhouse. It must, however, be hung relatively close to plants in order to spur growth.

HID

High-intensity discharge (HID) lights work by sending an electrical charge through a pressurized gas tube. There are two types: high-pressure sodium (HPS), which produces light in a narrow yellow-orange-red band, and metal halide (MH), which produces a broader range of light waves but tends to be more toward the white-blue-violet end of the spectrum. Novice growers tend to use metal halide lights if they’re using grow lights at all. But more experienced greenhouse gardeners, and those who grow throughout the year, may use a combination: MH lights to start plants off and encourage early growth and bushiness, then switching to HPS as the plants mature, because HPS light encourages flowering and fruiting. In fact, although most fixtures do not allow for bulbs to be interchanged, convertible fixtures are available that do allow the gardener to switch between bulbs.

Ordinary incandescent lights aren’t particulary good sources of growth-promoting light, but they can help heat a greenhouse. And their attractive warm light also turns a greenhouse into a nighttime landscape design feature.

LED Grow Lights

As lighting technology continues to evolve, light-emitting diodes (LEDs) are growing in popularity and use. Manufacturers have developed special LED grow lights that include both blue and red light waves, effectively serving all the needs of plants—from initial growth through mature budding, flowering, and fruiting. The big bonus of these bulbs is that they last almost as long as HID lights do but cost a fraction of the price. The lights can be used with conventional fixtures and provide wide, diffuse illumination that prevents the light from ever burning plant leaves.

In most climates, an electric heater with an automatic thermostat will be sufficient to protect tender plants on cold nights. Electricity is an expensive heating option, however, so it’s best reserved for moderate heating needs.

A portable space heater may be all the supplemental heat your greenhouse requires. Use it with caution, and make sure yours shuts off automatically if it overheats or is knocked over.

Oil, gas, kerosene, and other fuel-operated heaters must be vented to the outside and have a source of fresh air for combustion.

Heat Sinks

Heat sinks absorb solar energy during the day and radiate it back into the greenhouse at night. Stone, tile, and brick floors and walls are good collectors of heat, but to be really effective, they should be insulated from underneath. Piles of rocks can act as heat sink, but the best option is a blue- or black-painted barrel or drum full of water. Place a few of them around the greenhouse. If you have an attached greenhouse, painting the house wall a dark color can cause it to radiate solar heat back into the greenhouse at night. A light-colored wall, on the other hand, can help reflect heat and light back into the greenhouse during the day.

This heat sink system uses solar energy to heat the greenhouse. Air heated by the sun is drawn in by the fan and blown into the rock pile, which also absorbs solar heat. Heat is radiated back into the greenhouse after the sun goes down.

A heating and cooling thermostat is perhaps the most important greenhouse control device. The thermostat will control heat sources and automatic ventilaters to cool the greenhouse when temperatures climb into the danger zone for overheating plants.

Automatic openers sense heat buildup and open vents. Some openers are controlled by standard thermostats, while others are solar-powered.

Venting your greenhouse– Installing at least one operable roof vent on each side of the ridgeline creates good air movement within the structure. Adding lower intake vents helps for cooling. Adding fans to the system greatly increases air movement.

Shades

By blocking direct sunlight, shades protect plants from sunburn and prevent the greenhouse from getting too hot. They can be installed on the exterior or hung from cables inside the greenhouse. Both methods block the sun, but only exterior shades prevent solar energy from penetrating the glazing, thereby keeping the air inside the greenhouse cooler.

Roof shades, along with vents, help prevent a greenhouse from overheating in direct sunlight. Here, a combination of circulating fans and cloth shades mounted on the interior of the south-facing glass helps protect plants.

Louvered and roll-up shades help to block the sun in this greenhouse.

Evaporative Coolers

Evaporative coolers (also called swamp coolers) cool the air by using a fan to push or pull air through a water-saturated pad. A portable cooler might be sufficient for a small greenhouse; larger greenhouses will benefit from a unit cooler placed outside. Used when the humidity outside is less than 40 percent, these units draw dry outside air through the saturated pad, where it is cooled. The air travels through the greenhouse and exits via a vent on the opposite side. It’s a good idea to use an algaecide with these coolers.

Liquid Shading

Some greenhouse gardeners choose to paint liquid-shading compounds (sometimes called whitewashing) over the outside glazing. These compounds are inexpensive and easy to apply, but they can be unattractive and tend to wash off in the rain. Liquid shading can be thinned or layered to the level desired, and the residue can be brushed off at the end of summer. (It is often almost worn off by that point anyway.) Some liquid-shading compounds become transparent during rainy weather to let in more light and then turn white when they dry.

Roof vents that are triggered to open automatically by sensor alerts are far and away the most important component of a greenhouse cooling system. But additional cooling devices may be necessary.

Sturdy benches that are easy to clean and withstand moisture are a critical part of a greenhouse that’s pleasant to work in.

For space efficiency, potting benches can double as storage containers. Here, the potting benches include spaces for mixing and storing soils for potting. Slatted covers make it easy to keep the bench-tops tidy.

Terra cotta containers are preferable if your plants will live in the pot permanently. If you are only starting plants for transplant, inexpensive plastic pots and trays are a good choice.

Hoophouse

Economical and versatile, a hoop-style greenhouse (also called a hoophouse or a quonset house) is constructed of PVC or metal pipes that are bent into an inverted U shape, attached to a base, and connected at the top by a ridgepole. A hoophouse is usually covered with plastic sheeting. A door can be set at one end, and there may be an exhaust fan or flap vent that can be rolled up for ventilation. Because the hoop greenhouse is lightweight, it is not a good choice in areas with strong winds. (For instructions on building a hoophouse, see here to here.)

A hoophouse is a simple greenhouse made by wrapping clear plastic over a series of U-shape frames. See here.

A-frame Greenhouse

An A-frame greenhouse is small and lightweight and can be made of wood or PVC. A series of A-frames is attached to a wood base and covered with plastic sheeting or rigid plastic panels, such as polycarbonate or fiberglass. Because of the steep pitch of the roof, this type of greenhouse easily sheds rain, snow, and leaves and provides more headroom than a hoop greenhouse. It can also be portable.

An A-frame greenhouse is a structure that is both incredibly simple and very stable. It’s a great starter option for novice greenhouse gardeners.

This kit greenhouse has an aluminum frame and polycarbonate panels. It features sliding doors and a roof vent. With nearly 200 square feet of floor space, it was a good bargain at around $800. See here.

A prefabricated cold frame such as this offers many benefits, including an easy-to-use flip top, white plastic glazing that diffuses light, and an attractive appearance.

Like greenhouses, sunrooms can be as simple or as elaborate as your budget and style will allow. This sunroom blends beautifully with the house.

This type of greenhouse has vertical side walls and an even-span roof, with plenty of headroom in the center. Side walls are typically about 5’ high; the roof’s central ridge stands 7 to 8’ above the floor. This model shows a low base wall, known as a kneewall, but glass-to-ground traditional-span houses are also widely available. Kneewalls help to conserve heat but block light below the benches; glass-to-ground houses suffer more heat loss but allow in more light.

Because it is attached to the house, a lean-to absorbs heat from the home and offers easy access to utilities. This model shows curved eaves, a glazed roof, and glass-to-ground construction. Lean-tos can be built on kneewalls to provide more headroom and better heat retention than glass-to-ground styles. Sinking the foundation into the ground about 2 to 3’ can conserve even more heat.

Also attached to the house, this type of greenhouse offers the benefits of a lean-to with even more headroom and better light transmission (though it offers less light than a freestanding model). Because of the additional framing and glazing, this style is more expensive to build than a traditional lean-to.

Especially suitable for low-growing border crops, such as lettuce, this design has sloping sides that allow maximum light transmission. However, the large panes of glass, which may be 30 by 59”, are expensive to replace.

The slanting sides and roof panels that characterize the mansard are designed to allow maximum light transmission. This style is excellent for plants that need a lot of light during the winter.

A relatively inexpensive option that requires little space, this greenhouse is typically made of aluminum framing and can be placed against a house, a garage, or even a fence, preferably facing southeast or southwest, to receive maximum light exposure. Space and access are limited, however; and without excellent ventilation, a mini-greenhouse can become dangerously overheated. Because the temperature inside is difficult to control, it is not recommended for winter use.

This style is stable and more wind-resistant than traditional greenhouses, and its multi-angled glass panes provide excellent light transmission. Because of its low profile and stability, it works well in exposed locations. However, it is expensive to build and has limited headroom, and plants placed near the edges may be difficult to reach.

Though it provides an interesting focal point, this type of greenhouse is decorative rather than practical. Polygonal and octagonal greenhouses are typically expensive to build, and space inside is limited.

Specifically designed for plants that normally grow at high elevations and thrive in bright, cool conditions, this alpine house is unheated and has plenty of vents and louvers for maximum ventilation. Doors and vents are left open at all times (except in winter). Many rock-garden plants—edelweiss, sedum, and gentian, for example—appreciate the alpine house environment.

Made of PVC or metal framing and plastic glazing, this lightweight, inexpensive greenhouse is used for low-growing crops that require minimal protection from the elements. Because it does not provide the warm conditions of a traditional greenhouse, it is designed mainly for extending the growing season, not for overwintering plants. Ventilation in this style can be a problem, so some models have sides that roll up.

With its angled roof panels, double-glazing, and insulation, the conservation greenhouse is designed to save energy. It is oriented east-to-west so that one long wall faces south, and the angled roof panels capture maximum light (and therefore heat) during the winter. To gain maximum heat absorption for the growing space, the house should be twice as long as it is wide. Placing the greenhouse against a dark-colored back wall helps to conserve heat—the wall will radiate heat back into the greenhouse at night.

Go grand when you want to marry traditional style to a stunning landscape. If money is no object, your greenhouse can be a jaw-dropping feature that creates a centerpiece for your landscape. This traditional greenhouse features a steel frame, glass glazing, and the time-honored roof crest that is not only a distinctive visual feature but also keeps birds from perching on the ridge and fouling the roof’s panels.

Grow in modern style with a high-end prefab shed greenhouse. This backyard stunner is sold as a kit but looks custom. It includes operable vent windows, and the footprint lends itself to many different greenhouse workspace configurations. Keep in mind that a greenhouse can be a backyard focal point as well as a utility building.

The first order of business is always location, location, location. As the sun-drenched interior of this modern shed greenhouse shows, siting your greenhouse is the most important consideration. This one is located right in the middle of a backyard, avoiding shade from trees on the perimeter and taking advantage of the sun throughout the day.

Integrate your greenhouse. This Gothic arch-style structure is a trim and inoffensive addition to a yard, but it really comes into its own as a planned part of the landscape. Positioned at the end of a path with a raised bed behind it, it seems just as permanent as the wood arbor or brick walls in this large courtyard.

Start small with a lean-to. If you’re not ready to commit to a full-blown greenhouse, a lean-to kit such as this one is a great way to get your feet wet. The simple construction belies a well-thought-out functionality. This kit comes with seals and gutters, and the homeowner has opted to create beds from mounded soil. Placing the lean-to on a brick patio meant that no foundation had to be dug.

Choose a lightweight option when you’re not certain about siting. This well-constructed half-hoop kit greenhouse is a perfect starter for the novice gardener. It is easy to assemble and can be anchored in place or easily moved to a different location to suit different plants.

Consider hanging plants when choosing a framing material. Growing plants in hanging baskets lends another dimension to your greenhouse, but the framing has to be sturdy enough to support the additional weight. The solid wood rafter braces in this greenhouse are more than up to the job.

Look to kits for flexible options. This prefab Gothic arch-style greenhouse came complete with frame and panels as well as dual countertops that can be reconfigured to suit planting and work needs. Kit manufacturers also offer packages that include accessories such as the time and temperature control panels, thermostat, and vent fan in this greenhouse.

Maximize exposure with a geodesic dome greenhouse. This intriguing style makes the most of available sunlight and is excellent at counteracting wind and snow loads. The handsome kit shown here comes complete with a pony wall, polycarbonate panels, and all the hardware you’ll need to build what is actually a fairly complex structure.

Build a stunning greenhouse with wood. Few materials are quite as handsome as wood when it comes to framing a greenhouse, and the redwood that makes up this frame is especially beautiful. Left untreated, the frame will age to an elegant gray. This is a prefab all-in-one structure, even though it looks custom built.

Integrate a kit greenhouse with other landscape features to make it seem at home. This tidy prefab unit is attractive enough with its crisp opaque panels, but it really seems part of the yard thanks to a bed planted next to it and planters around it.

Prep for greenhouse success. This is another Gothic arch-style prefab greenhouse that has been set up for longevity and efficiency. It sits on a framed foundation, with a dirt floor that can be used for growing and is forgiving of spills or accidents. The slotted benches are ready to hold plants in need of sun and tender care, and the stone path ensures slip-free accessibility in any season.

Think beyond growing when choosing your greenhouse. As this kit unit shows, a greenhouse can be a year-round relaxing room as well as a place to grow your favorite plants. It’s all how you outfit it.

Play it safe with lean-tos. A subdued, attached greenhouse will fit attractively with your house. This white-framed prefabricated lean-to provides abundant space inside and looks integrated with the house—the glass, not the frame, dominates. A brick walkway wrapping around the lean-to adds to the appeal.

Seek details that aid construction—modern greenhouse manufacturers offer many construction shortcuts that make building your greenhouse easier. This framing connector alleviates the need for multiple miter cuts, shaving quite a bit of time off the construction process.

Outfit for what you want to grow. Orchids are finicky plants that require carefully curated growing conditions, and this greenhouse—equipped with a variable-speed direction fan, multiple vent windows, and a sturdy heater—makes the perfect home for them. It doesn’t hurt that the gorgeous redwood frame is a beautiful complement to the showstopping flowers.

Find a frame color that will work with your location. This lovely kit greenhouse is offered in different frame colors, but the green here blends with the forest-like surroundings. In tandem with a custom-made platform, the frame and opaque panels create a very elegant visual.

Supplement greenhouses with the right portable cold frame. This trim, prefab unit can be used on a patio with potted plants or placed right over young plants in a bed. It’s easy to clean, durable, and a great partner to a greenhouse in the garden.

Go big in a sun-drenched area. This sizeable “hobby” greenhouse offers plenty of room for plants of all types and plenty of window exposure to soak up the sun in a large, wide-open backyard.

Use a kneewall when appropriate. The solid kneewall around the bottom of this greenhouse makes the structure feel more rooted and permanent, and it also adds stability. The kneewall doesn’t detract from sun exposure because nearby structures limit the sun to the upper portion of the greenhouses.

Keep climate in mind when choosing a greenhouse. Areas prone to snow, hail, or gale-force winds all present challenges. To ensure that your greenhouse stays standing, select one meant to stand up to the elements in your local climate. The geodesic dome greenhouse here was obviously a good choice for the anticipated snow load.

Pick accessories to make greenhouse gardening easy on yourself. The solar-powered automatic openers shown here make opening and closing vents and louvers one less thing you need to worry about. As the black probes are hit by increasing sunshine, they slowly trigger the opening devices, working in reverse when the sun goes down.

Determine quality by looking at the fine details. Inspect any prefab greenhouse for signs of quality construction. This quick-fit fastener makes assembly easier and less stressful, and it will ensure the long-term stability of the greenhouse.

Stage your greenhouse to make it a focal point and an incredible addition to your landscape. This smartly appointed prefab greenhouse, with its clean and sharp appearance, is shown to its best advantage by being centered on a raised foundation of crushed, colored gravel, bordered by scalloped stones.

Organize your greenhouse from the start to ensure the gardening experience is as pleasant and efficient as possible. This simple greenhouse includes a center stone path that makes wheeling materials and plants in and out a breeze. The deep, sturdy workbenches ensure that plants have ample room while still leaving space for the gardener to work.

In this chapter:

• Custom Victorian Greenhouse

• DIY Gabled Greenhouse

• Freestanding Kit Greenhouse

An automatic lifter arm contains a sensor that causes your roof window vents to raise when the interior temperature reaches a preset level—usually around 100°F.

Products for joining and fastening panels include a panel seam trim, which has wide flanges on both edges to accept two panels that butt together; 100% silicon caulk for sealing seams (check with the panel manufacturer for compatibility of adhesives and caulks); and rubber-gasket pole barn screws for fastening panels to rafters or purlins.

Install a 4 to 6” thick layer of compactible gravel to create a stable subbase. Tamp the gravel with a hand tamper or rental compactor. The tamped surface should slope away from the house at a very shallow rate—about 1/16” per foot. Insert an isolation board strip (usually made of asphalt-impregnated fiberboard) between the slab area and the foundation wall to keep the structures separate.

Build the three-sided concrete form and position it on top of the subbase. Screw the three 2 × 4s together with deck screws and then tack a 1 × 4 or 2 × 4 across the top, back ends of the sides. Square and level the forms and then drive wood stakes outside the 2 × 4 members. Attach the form to the stakes with deck screws driven through the stakes and into the form boards.

NOTE: The slab seen here is sized so there is a concrete apron of 2 to 3” around the structure, resembling a foundation wall. Some builders prefer to size the slab so the corner posts are flush with the slab edges, allowing you to cover the gap at the concrete surface with siding.

Add reinforcement in the concrete area. For most DIYers, metal re-mesh is an easy reinforcement material to work with. It is sold in 5 × 50’ rolls and in 4 × 8’ sheets. Prop the re-mesh on some small stones or bolsters. The edges of the reinforcement should be at least 4 to 6” away from the sides, and no closer than 1” to the concrete surface.

Pour concrete into the form. For a slab of the dimensions shown (4” thick by 68 × 84”) approximately 15 cu. ft. (1/2 yard) of concrete is required (thirty 60-pound bags of dry mix). Settle the concrete by rapping the forms lightly with a mallet, and then strike off the material before floating.

Set J-bolts into the concrete after it sets up and after you have rounded the edges with an edger tool. Make sure to follow your plan closely for the J-bolt positions. Cover the concrete with sheet plastic and allow it to dry overnight before removing the forms.

Install post anchors at the corners and at the doorjamb location. Standoff posts that elevate the post bottom slightly will greatly reduce the amount of water the post end will wick up from the footing.

Cut the 2 × 4 sill plates to fit between the posts, using pressure-treated lumber. Install the sill plates by fastening with a powder-actuated tool and concrete nails. Or, you can drill guide holes and install masonry anchor sleeves or simply drive concrete screws into the concrete.

Tack the posts in the standoff post bases with a couple of deck screws, making sure they are resting cleanly on the standoff pads. Also brace the posts with 2 × 4 braces so they are plumb. Tack all the posts in position and plumb them and then mark level cutting heights using a laser level or level for reference.

Remove the posts for trimming to final height, making sure to note which post belongs in which base. Marking and cutting in this manner ensures that the tops of all posts will be level even though the slab slopes away from the house. Precutting posts to the same length will result in a roof structure that is not flat. Reinstall the posts in the anchors and fasten with joist hanger nails or 16d galvanized nails.

Cut the 2 × 4 endwall cap plates to length and screw them to the tops of the corner posts with 3” deck screws. Test frequently to make sure the corners are square and the edges are flush with the post edges.

Clamp the doubled front and back wall cap plates together so the top plate overhangs the lower plate by 3 1/2” on each end. Screw the top plates to the endwall cap plates and then fasten the front and back wall plates together with 2 1/2” deck screws. Fasten the top cap plate on each end.

Build stud walls for the kneewalls between posts. Space the kneewall studs so they will be positioned beneath the intermediate posts. Attach cap plate to the tops of the studs.

Add 1 × 6 sills to the tops of the 2 × 4 kneewalls. The sills will cover the edges of the exterior siding, so make the interior edges flush with interior wall studs and cap plate.

Add intermediate 4 × 4 posts between the sills and the undersides of the doubled cap plates. These posts should be situated directly above kneewall studs. The posts are spaced so the distances between posts will create uniform-width bays for the windows.

Install back wall studs between the back sill plate and the back cap plates, spaced 16” on center. Do not attach these studs to the house—they must remain isolated from it structurally.

Construct and attach the roof ridge support wall, featuring a 2 × 6 on edge at the top of the wall. It is easiest to build this wall on the ground and then erect it as a unit. Use a pair of 2 × 4 braces to keep the support wall stable while you attach the rafters.

Position a 2 × 4 so it spans from the ridge pole and past the header. Transfer cutting lines onto the workpiece and then cut the outer support legs to length at the marked angle. Attach the legs with deck screws.

Cut the rafters. Set workpieces in position against the 2 × 6 ridge pole and mark the point where they meet the header. Make a birdsmouth cutout in each rafter so it will rest flush on the header (top photo). Cut a decorative profile on each rafter end according to the Diagram shown here (bottom photo).

Install the corner rafters. First, attach skew joist hangers to the ends of the ridge pole for the skewed rafters that extend out to the front corners. Nail the rafters into the hangers with joist hanger nails. Toenail them (or drive screws toenail style) to the header.

Fill in the remaining rafters. If you wish, you can use joist hanger hardware to attach the rafters to the ridge pole. Or, you can nail or screw them. Spacing between rafters should be uniform.

Measure from the corner rafters to the endwall headers to find the lengths for the side rafters in the hip wall configuration. Cut 2 × 4 workpieces to length for each rafter.

Clamp the side rafter workpieces to a sturdy worksurface and cut the top and bottom angles with a circular saw or jigsaw. The side rafters in this design do not overhang the wall headers. Attach the side rafters with screws driven through pilot holes.

Cut kneewall sheathing panels from exterior plywood and attach the panels to the kneewall studs with deck screws.

Cut and install trim boards and corner boards according to your plan for siding the kneewall. The tops of the trim boards should butt against the undersides of the sills.

Install the siding on the kneewall. Generally, it is a good idea to install siding that matches the house siding. However, a well-chosen contrasting material also can have a pleasing design impact.

Paint the structure prior to adding roof panels and windows with glazing. Two coats of exterior paint is an adequate finish for an exterior lumber product, such as this cedar siding. A base coat of primer is always a good idea.

Also seal the roof structure with paint before installing the roof panels. The charcoal colored paint seen here recalls the color of wrought iron, which was used frequently to construct greenhouses and related Victorian structures, such as orangeries.

Begin to fasten the roof panels. The twin-wall corrugated polycarbonate panels seen here are fastened directly to the rafters. A panel seaming strip with channels on each edge is fastened to the center rafter to create a transition between the two abutting panels. Install the strip first so you can take more accurate width measurements for cutting the panels.

Cut the first roof panel to rough size using a circular saw fitted with a fine-tooth panel-cutting blade. Use a straightedge cutting guide. Or, use a tablesaw if you have access to one.

Set one edge of the panel into the slot in the seam strip so it is in the exact position you’ll install it. Use a marking pen to trace a cutting line onto the panel, flush with the edge of the endwall. Remove the panel and cut it to size.

Set the panel into position and test the fit.

Fasten the roof panels with rubber-gasket equipped pole barn screws driven every 12” at each rafter or purlin. Take care not to overdrive the screws, but be sure they penetrate far enough to create a tight seal.

Cut the side roof panels to fit and attach them with rubber gasket screws. The hip seams will be covered with flashing (See here).

Frame openings for the roof vent cutouts. Install a pair of parallel framing members at the top and bottom of each opening. The tops of the frames should be flush against the roof panel.

Cut out the openings in the roof panels. Drill a starter hole at each corner and then use a drywall saw to make the cuts. Clean up the cut edges with sandpaper.

Install flashing over the hip roof seams. Here, common drip cap flashing is being fastened with rubber-gasket screws driven into the roof rafters.

Cover the gap between the standalone greenhouse structure and the house with metal flashing. Aluminum handy flashing (12” width) can be fastened to the house and lightly creased so it extends over the gap and forms a seal without any physical connection to the greenhouse.

Install roof vent covers. (Here, the installation of the covers was postponed to allow access through the vent holes for installing flashing.) Use a piano hinge to attach each roof vent cover to the roof.

Attach an automatic window vent opener to each roof vent cover, according to the hardware manufacturer’s instructions. These devices have internal sensors that lift the vent cover when the greenhouse overheats.

Make the greenhouse windows. First, cut the window glazing panels (1/4” clear polycarbonate is used here) using a circular saw and a straightedge guide. The glazing should equal the full height and width of the window. For convenience, this greenhouse was designed with all six windows exactly the same size.

Cut the rails and stiles for the window frame to length from 1 × 4 pine stock. Assemble the frame parts around the glazing panel, clamping them together temporarily. Use the glazing panel as an alignment reference: if the panel is square and the frame edges are flush with the glazing all around, your window is square.

Drill guide holes for the bolts that draw the window parts together. Use a bit that’s slightly larger than the diameter of the bolt shafts. This allows for slight expansion and contraction of the window parts as the temperature and humidity level change. Counterbore the bolt holes slightly.

Cut the arched inserts to fit at the top of the window frame opening. Install the inserts in the frame with glue and a couple of brads or pin nails. Install an insert on both the interior and the exterior sides of the window.

Attach door stop molding on the perimeter of each window opening, set so the window will be flush with the framed openings. Install fixed windows (if any) by centering the window unit in the opening side to side and driving a few 8d finish nails through pilot holes in the window and into the posts. Angle the pilot holes so the nail will not contact the glazing.

Install operable windows by centering the window unit in the opening, using shims to center it side-to-side and top-to-bottom. Hang the windows with exterior-rated pairs of butt hinges.

Install door pulls and eyehooks on the interior side of the window. Locate the pulls so they are centered and near the tops of the bottom window frame rails. Locate the eyehooks so there will be slight tension when the hook is in the screw eye—this will limit any rattling of the window.

Assemble the door frame. The center stiles should be attached to the frame rails with pocket screws or with deck screws driven toenail style. Clamp the parts together, sandwiching a piece of 1/4” polycarbonate between the frames.

Bolt the door together in the same manner as the window, drilling over-sized guide holes and counterboring slightly for the nuts. Install two or three bolts in the center stile area to keep the frame and glazing from separating.

Cut the door panel inserts with a jigsaw and sand them smooth. Insert them into the framed openings as shown in the Diagram shown here. Secure them on both sides of the glazing, using glue and brads or pin nails.

Hang the door. You may find it easier to paint it first. Door stop moldings should be installed so the door is flush with the outside greenhouse wall when closed. Add a latch and a handle. If you want to be able to lock the greenhouse, add a hasp and padlock.

Attach a garage door sweep (or comparable weatherstripping product) to cover the gaps between the greenhouse and the house. Flashing, such as drip cap, may be used to cover the gaps on the downsloping sides of the hip roof.

Make sure the foundation is clean and dry, then fill the gap between the concrete and the siding with clear silicone caulk.

Add trim elements to complete the roof. Parts of the roof trim system include: flashing over ridge (A); clear vent panel (B) attached with piano hinge (C) and automatic closer (D); seaming strip (E); metal drip cap for edges (F); 1/4 × 1 1/2” wood battens at rafter locations (G); vinyl cap molding at eave edges (H).

Finish the interior. You may add interior wallcoverings if you wish, but the exposed stud bays are good spots for adding shelving. For instructions on building this built-in potting bench, see here to here.

A wood-frame greenhouse with sheet-plastic cover is an inexpensive, semipermanent gardening structure that can be used as a potting area as well as a protective greenhouse.

Cut 12 pieces of #3 rebar to length at 24” (if necessary), using a reciprocating saw or hacksaw. Drill a 3/8”-diameter pilot hole through each timber, near both ends and in the middle. Confirm that the timber frame is square by measuring diagonally between opposing corners (the measurements must be equal). Drive a rebar spike through each hole, using a hand maul, until the bar is flush with the timber.

Cut the sole plates, caps, and studs for the two kneewalls. Mark the stud layouts onto the plates and caps, spacing the studs at 24” on center. Assemble each kneewall by driving 3” deck screws through the sole plates and caps and into the ends of the studs.

Install the kneewalls onto the timber base. Set each wall onto a side timber so the sole plate is flush with the ends and side edges of the timber frame. Fasten the sole plate to the timber with 3” deck screws.

Begin the endwalls by cutting and installing the end sole plates to fit between the side plates, using 3” deck screws. Cut the ridge support posts to length. Toenail one post at the center of each end sole plate. Check the posts with a level to make sure they’re plumb before fastening.

NOTE: The front post will be cut later to create the door opening.

Set the ridge pole on top of the support posts and check it for level. Install temporary cross braces between the outer wall studs and each support post, making sure the posts are plumb before fastening the braces. Double-check the posts and ridge for plumb and level, respectively.

Create a template rafter by cutting a 2 × 4 at about 66”. Hold the board against the end of the ridge and the top outside corner of a wall cap. Trace along the face of the ridge and the cap to mark the cutting lines for the rafter. Cut along the lines, then test-fit the rafter and make any necessary adjustments for a good fit.

Mark and cut the remaining rafters, using the template to trace the cutting lines onto each piece of stock.

TIP: A jigsaw or handsaw is handy for making the bottom-end cuts without having to over-cut, as you would with a circular saw.

Install the rafters, using the deck screws driven at an angle into the kneewall caps and the ridge. The rafters should be aligned with the studs and perpendicular to the ridge.

Mark the two door frame studs by holding them plumb and tracing along the bottom edge of the rafter above. Position the studs on-the-flat, so the inside edge of each is 16” from the center of the support post (for a 32”-wide door, as shown). Install the studs with angled screws. Cut and install two studs on the rear endwall, spacing them evenly between the kneewalls and support post.

Complete the door frame: Mark the front support post 78” (or as desired) up from the sole plate. Make a square cut at the mark, using a circular saw or cordless trim saw (inset), then remove the bottom portion of the post. Cut the door header (from the post waste) to fit between the door studs. Fasten the header to the door studs and remaining post piece with screws.

Begin covering the greenhouse with the desired cover material (6-mil poly sheeting shown here), starting at the endwalls. Cut the sheeting roughly to size and secure it to the framing with wood tack strips fastened with wire brads. Secure the sheeting at the top first, the sides next, and the bottom last. Trim the excess material along the edges of the strips with a utility knife.

Attach sheeting to the edges of the sole plate on one side of the greenhouse, then roll the sheeting over the top and down the other side. Draw it taut, and cut it a little long with scissors. Secure the sheeting to the other sole plate (using tack strips), then attach it to the outside edges of the corner studs.

Create the door, using a piece of sheeting cut a little larger than the door opening (or purchase a door kit; see photo below). Secure the top of the door to the header with a tack strip. Weight the door’s bottom end with a 2 × 4 scrap cut to length.

Kit greenhouses come in a wide range of shapes, sizes, and quality. The best ones have tempered-glass glazing and are rather expensive. The one at right is glazed with corrugated polyethylene and is at the low end of the cost spectrum.

Organize and inspect the contents of your kit cartons to make sure all of the parts are present and in good condition. Most manuals will have a checklist. Staging the parts makes for a more efficient assembly. Just be sure not to leave any small parts loose, and do not store parts in high-traffic areas.

A cordless drill/driver with a nut-driver accessory will trim hours off of your assembly time compared with using only hand tools.

Rent outdoor power equipment if you need to do significant regrading to create a flat, level building base. Be sure to have your local utility company inspect for any buried utility lines first. (You may prefer to hire a landscaping company to do regrading work for you.)

Excavate the site to a depth of 5”, using the layout strings as a guide. As you work, use a straight 2 × 4 and a 4’ level to check the excavation to make sure it is level and flat. Tamp any loose soil with a plate compactor or hand tamp. Cover the excavation with commercial-grade landscape fabric (do not use plastic; the membrane must be water-permeable). Fill the area with 2 or 3” of compactible gravel, grade and level it, then tamp it thoroughly. Add more gravel, level, and tamp for a final subbase depth of 5”.

Assemble the greenhouse base, using the provided corner and end connectors. Set the base onto the subbase and make sure the base is level. Measure the diagonals to check for square, as before. Add a top dressing of gravel or other fill material inside the base, up to about 1” below the base’s top lip. Smooth and level the gravel as before.

Attach the bottom wall plates to the base pieces so that the flanged edges face outside the greenhouse. In most systems, the floor plates will interlock with one another, end to end, with built-in brackets.

Fasten the four corner studs to the bottom wall plates, using hold-down connectors and bolts. In this system, each corner stud is secured with two connectors.

Install the ceiling plates: Assemble the pieces for each side ceiling plate. Attach each side plate against the inside of the two corner studs along each side of the greenhouse, making sure the gutter is positioned correctly. Attach the front ceiling plate to the outsides of the corner studs at the front of the building.

Attach the other side ceiling plate along the other side, flat against the inside of the corner studs. Then attach corner brackets to the rear studs, and construct the back top plate by attaching the rear braces to the corners and joining the braces together with stud connectors.

Fasten the left and right rear studs to the outside of the rear floor plate, making sure the top ends are sloping upward, toward the peak of the greenhouse. Attach the center rear studs to the rear floor plate, fastening them to the stud connectors used to join the rear braces.

Install the doorway studs at either side of the greenhouse door on the front end of the building. Install the side studs along both side walls of the greenhouse.

Add diagonal struts, as directed by the manufacturer. The struts help to stiffen and square up the walls. As you work, take diagonal measurements between opposing corners at the tops of the walls, to make sure the structure remains square.

Fasten the gable-end stud extensions to the front and back walls of the greenhouse. The top ends of the studs should angle upward, toward the peak of the greenhouse.

Assemble the roof frame on a flat area near the wall assembly. First assemble the crown-beam pieces; then attach the rafters to the crown, one by one. The end rafters, called the crown beams, have a different configuration, so make sure not to confuse them.

With at least one helper, lift the roof into place onto the wall frames. The gable end studs should meet the outside edges of the crown beams, and the ends of the crown beams rest on the outer edge of the corner bracket. Fasten in place with the provided nuts and bolts.

Attach the side braces and the roof-window support beams to the underside of the roof rafters, as specified by the manufacturer’s instructions.

Build the roof windows by first connecting the two side window frames to the top window frame. Slide the window panel into the frame; then secure it by attaching the bottom window frame. Slide the window into the slot at the top of the roof crown; then gradually lower it in place. Attach the window stop to the window support beam.

Assemble the doors, making sure the top slider/roller bar and the bottom slider bar are correctly positioned. Lift the door panels up into place onto the top and bottom wall plates.

Install the panels one by one, using panel clips. Begin with the large wall panels. Position each panel and secure it by snapping a clip into the frame, at the intervals specified by the manufacturer’s instructions.

Add the upper panels. At the gable ends, the upper panels will be supported by panel connectors that allow the top panel to be supported by the bottom panel. The lower panels should be installed already.

Install the roof panels and roof-window panels so that the top edges fit up under the edge of the crown or window support and the bottom edges align over the gutters.

Test the door and window operation, and make any necessary adjustments so they open and close smoothly.

A hoophouse is a temporary agricultural structure designed to be low-cost and portable. Also called Quonset houses and tunnel houses, hoophouses provide shelter and shade (depending on the film you use) and protection from wind and the elements. They will boost heat during the day, but are less efficient than paneled greenhouses for extending the growing season.

Sheet plastic is an inexpensive material for creating a greenhouse. Obviously, it is less durable than polycarbonate, fiberglass or glass panels. But UV-stabilized films at least 6-mil thick can be rated to withstand four years or more of exposure. Inexpensive polyethylene sheeting (the kind you find at hardware stores) will hold up for a year or two, but it becomes brittle when exposed to sunlight. Some greenhouse builders prefer to use clear plastic sheeting to maximize the sunlight penetration, but the cloudiness of translucent poly makes it effective for diffusing light and preventing overheating. For the highest quality film coverings, look for film rated for greenhouse and agricultural use.

Plastic tubing and fittings used to build this hoophouse include: light-duty 3/4” PVC tubing for the frame (do not use CPVC—it is too rigid and won’t bend properly); 1/2” CPVC supply tubing for the frame stakes (rigidity is good here); polyethylene (PE) tubing for the cover clips; T-fittings and cross fittings to join the frame members.

Cut a 30”-long stake from 1/2” CPVC pipe for each leg of each frame hoop. Plastic pipe is easy to cut with a plastic tubing cutter or a hacksaw. Mark the layout strings at 36” intervals, using tape or a marker. Drive a stake at each marked location, using a hand sledge or hammer. Keep the stakes plumb and drive them in 20” deep, so only 10” is above ground.

Join the two legs for each frame hoop with a fitting. Use a T-fitting for the end hoop frames and a cross fitting for the intermediate hoop frames. No priming or solvent gluing is necessary. (The friction-fit should be sufficient, but it helps if you tap on the end of the fitting with a mallet to seat it.)

Slip the open end of one hoop-frame leg over a corner stake so the pipe is flush against the ground. Then bend the pipes so you can fit the other leg end over the stake at the opposite corner. If you experience problems with the pipes pulling out of the top fitting, simply tape the joints temporarily until the structure frame is completed.

Continue adding hoop frames until you reach the other end of the structure. Wait until all the hoop frames are in place before you begin installing the ridge poles. Make sure the cross fittings on the intermediate hoop frames are aligned correctly to accept the ridge poles.

Add the ridge pole sections to tie together the hoop frames. The correct length for the ridge poles depends on the socket depth of the fitting you use, so you’ll have to measure the fittings and calculate length of the ridge pieces. If necessary, tap the end of each ridge piece with a wood or rubber mallet to seat it fully in the fitting socket.

Cut four 2 × 4s to length (15’ as shown). Cut the cover material to length at 16’ (or as needed so it is several inches longer than the house at both ends). Staple one edge of the cover to one of the 2 × 4s, keeping the material taut and flat as you work from one end to the other

Lay another 2 × 4 over the first so their ends and edges are flush and the cover material is sandwiched in between. Fasten the two boards together with 2 1/2” deck screws driven every 24” or so. Position the board assembly along the base of the hoops and pull the free end of the material over the tops of the hoops to the other side.

Pull the cover taut on the other side of the house, and repeat the process of stapling it to one board then sandwiching with the other.

Secure the cover at the ends with 6” lengths of 1” PE tubing. Cut the tubing pieces to length, then slit them lengthwise to create simple clips. Use at least six clips at each end of the house. Do not use clips on the intermediate hoops.

With slight modifications, many ordinary sheds can be redesigned as greenhouses. The addition of glass roof panels turns this shed design into an effective greenhouse.

Cut ten 4 × 4 blocks to fit between the joists. Install six blocks 34 1/2” from the front rim joist, and install four blocks 31 1/2” from the rear. Toenail the blocks to the joists. All blocks, joists, and sills must be flush at the top.

To frame the rear wall, cut one top plate and one pressure- treated bottom plate (142 3/4”). Cut twelve studs (81”). Assemble the wall following the layout in the REAR FRAMING. Raise the wall and fasten it to the rear rim joist and the intermediate joists, using 16d galvanized common nails. Brace the wall in position with 2 × 4 braces staked to the ground.

For the front wall, cut two top plates and one treated bottom plate (142 3/4”). Cut ten studs (35 3/4”) and eight cripple studs (13 1/4”). Cut four 2 × 4 window sills (311 1/16”). Assemble the wall following the layout in the FRONT FRAMING. Add the double top plate, but do not install the window stops at this time. Raise, attach, and brace the front wall.

Cut lumber for the right side wall: one top plate (54 7/8”), one treated bottom plate (111 3/4”), four studs (81”), and two header post studs (86 7/8”); and for the left side wall: top plate (54 7/8”), bottom plate (111 3/4”), three studs (81”), two jack studs (77 1/2”), two posts (86 7/8”), and a built-up 2 × 4 header (39 1/4”). Assemble and install the walls as shown in the RIGHT SIDE FRAMING and LEFT SIDE FRAMING. Add the doubled top plates along the rear and side walls. Install treated 2 × 4 nailing cleats to the joists and blocking as shown in the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN and BUILDING SECTION.

Trim two sheets of 3/4” plywood as needed and install them over the joists and blocking as shown in the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN, leaving open cavities along the front of the shed and a portion of the rear. Fasten the sheets with 8d galvanized common nails driven every 6” along the edges and 8” in the field. Fill the exposed foundation cavities with 4” of gravel and compact it thoroughly.

Construct the rafter header from two 2 × 8s cut to 142 3/4”. Join the pieces with construction adhesive and pairs of 10d common nails driven every 24” on both sides. Set the header on top of the side wall posts, and toenail it to the posts with four 16d common nails at each end.

Cut one of each “A” and “B” pattern rafters using the RAFTER TEMPLATES. Test-fit the rafters. The B rafter should rest squarely on the rafter header, and its bottom end should sit flush with outside of the front wall. Adjust the rafter cuts as needed, then use the pattern rafters to mark and cut the remaining A and B rafters.

Cut the 2 × 6 ridge board (154 3/4”). Mark the rafter layout onto the ridge and front and rear wall plates following the FRONT FRAMING and REAR FRAMING. Install the A and B rafters and ridge. Make sure the B rafters are spaced accurately so the windows will fit properly into their frames; see the WINDOW SECTION.

Cut a pattern “C” rafter, test-fit, and adjust as needed. Cut the remaining seven C rafters and install them. Measure and cut four 2 × 4 nailers (311 1/16”) to fit between the sets of B rafters (as shown). Position the nailers as shown in the HEADER & WINDOW DETAIL and toenail them to the rafters.

Complete the rake portions of each side wall. Mark the stud layouts onto the bottom plate, and onto the top plate of the square wall section; see the RIGHT and LEFT SIDE FRAMING. Use a plumb bob to transfer the layout to the rafters. Measure for each stud, cutting the top ends of the studs under the B rafters at 45° and those under the A rafters at 30°. Toenail the studs to the plates and rafters. Add horizontal 2 × 4 nailers as shown in the framing drawings.

Create the inner and outer window stops from 10’-long 2 × 4s. For stops at the sides and tops of the roof windows and all sides of the front wall windows, rip the inner stops to 2 1/4” wide and the outer stops to 1” wide; see the WINDOW SECTION and WINDOW DETAIL. For the bottom of each roof window, rip the inner stop to 1 1/2”; bevel the edge of the outer stop at 45°.

Install each window as follows. Attach inner stops as shown in the drawings, using galvanized finish nails. Paint or varnish the rafters and stops for moisture protection. Apply a heavy bead of caulk at each location shown on the drawings (HEADER & WINDOW DETAIL, WINDOW SECTION/DETAIL, TABLE & LOWER WINDOW DETAIL). Set the glazing in place, add another bead of caulk, and attach the outer stops. Cover the rafters and stop edges with 1 × 4 trim.

Cover the walls with T1-11 siding, starting with the rear wall. Trim the sheets as needed so they extend from the bottom edges of the rafters down to at least 1” below the tops of the foundation timbers. On the side walls, add Z-flashing above the first row and continue the siding up to the rafters.

Install 1 × 6 fascia over the ends of the A rafters. Keep all fascia 1/2” above the rafters so it will be flush with the roof sheathing. Using scrap rafter material, cut the 2 × 4 lookouts (5 1/4”). On each outer B rafter, install one lookout at the bottom end and four more spaced 24” on center going up. On the A rafters, add a lookout at both ends and two spaced evenly in between. Install the 1 × 6 rake boards (fascia) as shown in the RAKE BOARD DETAIL.

Rip 1 × 6 boards to 5 1/4” width (some may come milled to 5 1/4” already) for the gable soffits. Fasten the soffits to the lookouts with siding nails. Rip a 1 × 8 board for the soffit along the rear eave, beveling the edges at 30° to match the A rafter ends. Install the soffit.

Deck the roof with 1/2” plywood sheathing, starting at the bottom ends of the rafters. Install metal drip edge, building paper, and asphalt shingles. If desired, add one or more roof vents during the shingle installation. Be sure to overlap shingles onto the 1 × 4 trim board above the roof windows, as shown in the HEADER & WINDOW DETAIL.

Construct the planting tables from 2 × 4 lumber and 1 × 6 boards, as shown in the TABLE & LOWER WINDOW DETAIL and BUILDING SECTION. The bottom plates of the table legs should be flush with the outside edges of the foundation blocking.

Build each of the two door panels using T1-11 siding, 2 × 2 bracing, a 2 × 4 bottom rail, and 1 × 2 trim on the front side; see the DOOR CONSTRUCTION drawings. The panels are identical except for a 2 × 4 sill added to the top of the lower panel. Install 1 × 2 stops at the sides and top of the door opening. Hang the doors with four hinges, leaving even gaps all around. Install a bolt latch for locking the two panels together.

Complete the trim details with 1 × 4 vertical corner boards, 1 × 4 horizontal trim above the front wall windows, and ripped 1 × 4 trim and 1 × 2 trim at the bottom of the front wall windows (see the TABLE & LOWER WINDOW DETAIL). Paint the siding and trim, or coat with exterior wood finish.

Commercial-grade, lightweight glazing, and predrilled aluminum frame parts are the key components that make this sunroom kit lightweight and durable enough for shipping and also easy to assemble. Sunrooms can be perfectly acceptable spaces for evening activities, if you equip them with light fixtures (below).

Precisely fitted wall shades are convenient for reducing glare and heat gain right where you need it. They’re also great for adding privacy when and where you want it without blocking all of your sunroom views.

Optional roof vents allow hot air to escape and help to flush the interior of the sunroom with fresh air. Adjustable covers let you control the rate of airflow. The opening and closing mechanism is easy to operate from inside the sun porch.

If the maximum height of the sun porch brings it up against or within 6” of the bottom of the eave overhang, extend the fascia on the eave downward and fill in with boards or siding between the cornice and the back post for the sun porch.

The ledger for the sun porch can be attached directly to the fascia board as long as the highest point of the sun-porch roof remains slightly lower than the roof covering. Be sure to attach the ledger so the lag screws hit into the ends of the rafter tails.

If the sun porch is slightly taller than the roof eaves, you can add a ledger that’s taller than the fascia, but it cannot extend more than a couple of inches higher. Fill in the open area beneath the roof covering created at the side using a full-width wood wedge and caulk. The roof covering must retain a slight slope with no swales.

Sun porch kits with nonglass panels can be mounted on practically any hard surface because they are light enough that they do not require a reinforced floor. You do need to make sure the floor is level, however (see here), and that the base channels you lay out create square corners.

A single roof vent creates an escape route for hot air, allowing you to regulate the temperature and keep the room cooler during hot weather. Multiple roof vents increase the ventilation efficiency, but increase the chances for leaks.

Building a new ground-level deck is a good way to create a stable floor for your sun porch if your concrete patio is in poor condition or if there is no other floor structure in the installation area. Attach pressure-treated 2 × 4 sleepers to the concrete surface to create a raised surface to set the deck on.

Set treated wood timbers onto a concrete footing for a sturdy wall base that you can attach to directly when installing the base channels. The footings should extend below your frost line to keep the structure from shifting, but you can use a less permanent floor system, such as sand-set pavers, if you wish.

SUN PORCH TERMS

Mounting surface: May be a level wood deck, concrete slab or patio.

Right and left endwalls: Reference point is with your back to the house looking outwards.

Kneewall (not shown): A site-built wall used to increase the height of the structure.

DOOR INFORMATION

Door (included with kit) may be mounted in any front or endwall bay.

Door opening is 33” wide and 72” high.

Door swings outward and can be hinged for left-hand or right-hand operation.

Lay out the base channel pieces onto your surface in the installation area. Join the pieces using the provided splice brackets and screws.

Position the free ends of the base channel against the wall cleats. Use a 4’ level to make sure the channel sections are level. If necessary, use tapered shims to level the channel. Then, check the base frame for square by measuring diagonally from corner to corner. Make adjustments as needed until the measurements are equal.

Fasten the base frame to the surface using a recommended fastener at each of the predrilled mounting holes. Apply a bead of silicone caulk where the channel meets the surface on both sides of the channel. Install the base channel vertical brackets to the base channels using the provided screws (inset photo). These brackets will join the vertical end-wall tubes and front-wall columns to the base channel frame.

To begin assembling the wall and roof structures, first join the endwall headers (the two outside rafters) and the rafters (the interior rafters) to the front-wall columns using the provided mounting brackets and screws. Also install the mounting brackets onto the free ends of the headers and rafters; these are used to mount the headers and rafters to the 2 × 6 support ledger (per step 1 shown here) on the house wall.

Complete the endwall assemblies by joining the vertical wall tubes to the endwall headers using the provided hardware. Finally, install the mullion brackets onto the sides of the rafters and endwall headers; these will join the horizontal mullions to the rafters and headers to tie the roof frame together (see Step 11).

With a helper, raise one of the endwall assemblies into position and set the vertical tubes over the base channel brackets. Fasten the tubes to the brackets with screws. Install the other endwall assembly the same way.

Anchor the endwall assemblies to the 2 × 4 support cleats and the 2 × 6 support ledger on the house wall. Use a level to position the vertical tubes perfectly plumb, and secure the tubes to the cleats using the recommended fasteners driven through the predrilled holes. Secure the endwall headers to the 2 × 6 support header using the recommended fasteners.

Snap a chalk line across the face of the 2 × 6 support ledger so the line is flush with the tops of the endwall headers. This line corresponds to the tops of the rafters and the bottom edge of the top mullion pieces.

Working from one endwall to the other, position the first rafter-front column assembly in place, and secure the column to the base channel using the provided screws. Then, install the horizontal mullions between the endwall header and the first rafter using the provided screws. Repeat this process to install the remaining rafter assemblies and mullions.

Install the top mullion pieces: Apply silicone caulk to the 2 × 6 support ledger to seal the vertical flange of the top mullions to the ledger. Also caulk where the horizontal flanges of the mullions will meet the endwall headers and rafters. Working from the right endwall to the left, secure the top mullions to the endwall headers and the rafters using the provided screws.

Anchor the rafters to the 2 × 6 support ledger using the recommended fasteners driven through the mounting brackets you installed on the rafter ends in Step 6.

Install the header caps over the tops of the endwall headers; these will help secure the roof glazing panels. First apply a bead of caulk down the center of each header, stopping it 3” from the end of the header. Set each cap into the wet caulk and secure it with the provided screws. Install the rafter caps following the same procedure.

Install the eave mullions over the exposed ends of the rafters and endwall headers. Apply caulk over the center of each frame part and around each predrilled hole. Set the mullions into the wet caulk and secure them with screws.

NOTE: Complete all additional caulking of the framing as recommended by the manufacturer.

Prepare the roofing panels for installation by taping the ends. Cover the top end of each panel with a strip of aluminum tape, and cover the bottom end with vented tape; both tapes are provided. Follow the manufacturers instructions to install any optional roof vents.

Apply adhesive foam gasket strips (provided) to the roof battens that will secure the glazing panels to the roof framing, following the manufacturer’s directions. Be careful not to pull or stretch the gaskets. Also apply gaskets to the roof framing, along the endwall headers, rafters, top mullions, and eave mullions, as directed.

Remove the protective film from the first roofing panel, making sure the UV-protected side of the panel is facing up. With a helper, place the panel on top of the endwall header and the adjacent rafter at one end of the roof. The panel should rest against the eave mullion along the front wall.

Secure the outside edge and ends of the panel with the appropriate battens, using the provided screws. To fasten battens to the eave mullion, first drill pilot holes into the mullion, using the predrilled batten holes as a guide. Carefully caulk the panel and battens at the prescribed locations.

Position the next roofing panel onto the rafters, and secure it with battens. The long, vertical batten covers both long edges of the first two panels.

TIP: You have to reach across a panel to fasten vertical battens. This is easiest when you have a tall ladder and use a magnetic nut driver on your drill, which allows you to drive the screws with one hand. Complete the flashing details along the 2 × 6 roof header as directed.

Install the remaining roofing panels, following the same procedure. Be sure to caulk the roofing carefully at all prescribed locations.

Begin the wall section installation by adding a triangular aluminum filler piece to the front section of each endwall. Install the fillers with the provided brackets and screws, then caulk along the top and ends of the fillers as directed.

Apply sealant tape along the perimeter of the first section on the front wall. Press the strips of tape firmly together to create a seal at each corner.

TIP: Storing the roll of tape in the refrigerator prior to installation makes it easier to work with.

Determine the door location (see TIP). Install the first screen/window frame. Set the panel onto the base channel, making sure the frame’s weep holes are at the bottom. Align the frame within the opening, and press inward firmly to seat it into the sealant tape. Secure the frame with the provided screws. Install the remaining frames using the same techniques.

Install the trapezoidal windows under the headers on the endwalls. Apply sealant tape as before, position the window, then secure it with the provided screws.

Complete the window installation by removing the bottom and top sash of each window frame. Peel off the protective film from the glazing, then reinstall each sash, following the manufacturer’s directions.

Begin the door installation by fastening the door threshold to the base channel, using the provided screws. Then, add the weatherstripping to the hinge bar and latch bar pieces and the header piece. Trim the excess weatherstripping.

Decide which side of the door will be hinged. Align the hinge bar (with door attached) to the markings on the vertical wall tube or front column, drill pilot holes, and mount the door to the column with screws.

Install the latch bar, leaving a 1/8” gap between the bar and the door edge. Install the header piece, also with a 1/8” gap. Complete the door assembly to add the handle, sweep, and closer, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Apply sealant tape to the door frame, and install the two glazing panels as directed. Add the decorative cover on each side of the door, seating it with a rubber mallet. If the door is located on one of the endwalls, install the trapezoidal window above the door, using the same techniques described in Step 24.

To prepare for this new sunroom addition, an old deck was replaced with a new, beefier model. It features a sturdy staircase with enough room on the left side of the addition for an open-air grilling area that is accessed through a door in the sunroom. Instead of decking, the deck area in the sunroom installation area is covered with 3/4” tongue-in-groove plywood sheathing.

Fasteners for this sunroom include self-tapping hex-head screws (1”) with low-visibility white heads (A), insulation screws (7”) with 2”-dia. fender washers (B), and galvanized self-tapping hex-head screws (2”) with self-sealing EPDM rubber washers (C).

Wall panels for sunroom kits consist of rigid PVC frames with foam insulation in the core. The window sash telescopes downward in four tracks to provide maximum ventilation when open.

Clear vinyl glazing stretches under impact and will not shatter or crack. It is also light enough in weight that sunroom kits often can be installed without structural reinforcement that may be required for units with glass-glazed windows.

Roof panels come in varying thicknesses depending on the thickness of the rigid foam insulation board that is used (here, 4”). The narrow filler panel seen here features washable PVC beadboard on the interior side to create a ready-to-go ceiling once it is installed. The exterior side of the panel is 5/8” oriented strand board (OSB) to create a surface for installing building paper and asphalt shingles.

Prepare the house walls for installation of the vertical wall tracks. Mark a cutting line on the siding at the track location and remove siding so you can fasten the tracks to the wall sheathing.

TIP: Use a cordless trim saw with a standard blade installed backward to cut vinyl siding.

Remove gutters and other obstructions from the installation area. The exact requirements for this step depend on the configuration of your roof and how you will be tying into the roofline or wall to make space for the sunroom roof.

Install the vertical wall track channels with silicone sealant and self-sealing screws. If the wall sheathing will not accept screws and is not backed by plywood sheathing, you will need to install sturdy wood or wood sheathing backers to secure the track.

Install the first wall panel. In many cases, the first panel will be a narrow filler strip that is simply a solid wall panel and does not contain windows. Install the panel by driving 1” self-tapping screws through the floor track flanges and into the bottom frame of the panel. Make sure the panel is plumb and firmly seated against the track.

Add the next panel according to the installation sequence diagram that comes with your kit. Make sure the panel is plumb and then tack it into position by driving self-tapping screws through the floor flange. The panels lock together at the edges, which will hold them temporarily until the upper wall track can be installed. If you are working in windy conditions, you may need to brace the panels.

Install a corner post at the first corner. The flange on the side of the L-shaped post (inset photo) should capture the end of the first wall’s last wall panel. The second wall’s first wall panel will fit into the other leg of the L.

Fit the upper wall track over the entire first wall after cutting it to length. The end of the track that joins with the track on the next wall should be mitered to make a neat joint. If the adjoining wall is gabled, this will mean making a relatively tricky compound miter cut. Refer to your plan for the exact angle and don’t be shy about asking for help.

Continue installing panels on the second wall. If it is a gabled wall, install panels up to the midpoint; then cut the three-part, ridge pole support post to fit, and install it by driving screws through the post and into the wall panel. Make sure the saddle formed at the top of the post is sized to accept the ridge pole.

Install the remaining wall panels, creating corners and adding upper wall tracks as you go. Frequently check for plumb and level, and make sure all panels are seated firmly in the tracks.

Mark the upper wall tracks at the gable for cutting by transferring the edges of the ridge pole saddle onto the ends of tracks. Cut them to length and the correct angle with a power miter saw and metal cutting blade. Or, you can use an old combination blade that you don’t mind making dull.

Set the ridge pole into the saddle in the ridge pole post, and adjust it until the overhang is correct. Check the length: if the pole does not end at the correct point on the other end, recut it or adjust your overhang amount. Secure the end by driving screws through the ridge pole post and into the ridge pole.

Secure the house-end of the ridge pole. Begin by installing a temporary post near the house wall that is the same height as the bottom of the saddle opening in the ridge pole post. Make sure the ridge pole is level and then measure for attaching it to the house. The exact method you use depends on the house structure. Here, the exterior wall that will support the ridge is set back 18” from a pair of bay windows that are covered by the same roof. This means that the cap plate for the bearing wall that will support the ridge pole is lower than the bottom of the pole. The distance is measured (left photo) and a 2 × 6 half-lap post anchor is constructed. The anchor is nailed to the cap plate on the wall and then the ridge pole is attached to the anchor with deck screws (below photo).

Begin installing roof panels. The full-width panels seen here are 4’ wide, yet they are strong enough to meet minimum dead load (“snow”) requirements even in cold climates. The panels are attached with long insulation screws that are fitted with fender washers and driven into the ridge pole and upper wall track.

Install I-beams on the roof next to the first roof panel. The track on one side of the I-beam should capture the leading edge of the first roof panel. Attach the I-beam to the roof panel with self-tapping screws driven through the I-beam flange and down into the OSB panel surface.

Add the next roof panel to the roof, sliding it into the open side of the I-beam. Square the panel with the roof, and then drive insulation screws down through the panel and into the ridge pole and the upper wall track. Add the next I-beam and fasten it with self-tapping screws.

Continue installing panels and I-beams until the roof is complete. Complete one full side before beginning the other.

Install fascia and gutters. The materials seen here are designed specifically to work with the roof panel system of this kit. The fascia snaps over the ends of the roof panels and is secured with screws. The gutters fit into tracks on the fascia and are secured with screws.

Install the prehung doors by fastening the door nailing flanges to the frames that create the door opening. Make sure the door is level and plumb before driving fasteners. Attach the door handle and latch.

Make finishing touches, such as trimming off excess insect screening and painting or cladding the ridge pole. If your sunroom does not have a finished ceiling, add one (tongue-and-groove cedar carsiding is a good choice). Install floorcoverings.

Plastic bottles have largely become an environmental disaster. But they can be put to good use in the garden, protecting small, vulnerable plants from cold snaps and extreme temperature variations. The cap provides a vent that allows you to release hot air and humidity as necessary.

Modifying a pallet like this—removing the center rails and replacing them with 6-mil polyethylene sheeting—is one of the many ways you can upcycle these handy throwaways. This crude “window” can be used as a building block to form walls and a roof for a greenhouse.

You don’t have to look far to find secondhand wood that can be reused in garden structures, but take steps to ensure old, potentially toxic paint and finishes are removed before you upcycle reclaimed wood.

Old, discarded windows are the environmentally conscious greenhouse gardener’s treasure. They can easily be turned into a simple cold frame, or combined to create a nearly free greenhouse.

A used tire makes a wonderful raised bed that can be placed where it is most convenient for the gardener. Inside a greenhouse, the rubber becomes a heat sink that releases heat after the sun goes down.

Reclaimed granite “curbstones” can serve as a tremendous foundation for a permanent greenhouse. They also make attractive walls for raised beds.

It might look like a chaotic mess of plumbing leftovers, but this is actually a cold frame or greenhouse frame just waiting to be rescued and assembled.

An old window (or two) is the perfect partner for straw bales, creating an easy, quick, and efficient cold frame. Construct the cold frame so the face is sloped to face the best sun exposure.

Build a greenhouse of old windows and you not only save money, but you also create a distinctive structure that puts a dumpster worth of waste materials to great use.

Check the frame for level on all sides, side by side, and diagonally. Add or remove gravel under the foundation to level any one side.

Working on a clean, flat surface such as the lawn here, lay out and build one side wall. Nail the sole and top plates to the studs after ensuring that each stud is at a 45° angle to the plate with a speed square.

Raise the wall, check for plumb, and brace it into position. Nail the sole plate to the foundation timber with 8d nails.

Once the two side walls are constructed and nailed in position, build and raise the rear (nondoor) wall into place and nail it to the foundation 4 × 4.

Screw the walls together at the corners with 3” wood screws.

Screw 2 × 4 × 28 1/4” spreaders in the stud cavities of the side and back walls. Toe-screw the spreaders on the inside edges and face-screw through the corners (inset). The tops of spreaders should be 32” above the 4 × 4 base, faces flush with the outside edges of the wall studs.

Face-nail a 2 × 4 cedar ledger around the perimeter of the greenhouse so that the top of the ledger is flush with the tops of the 2 × 4 spreaders.

Use a jigsaw to cut notches in 5/4 cedar decking to use as window sills on top of the spreaders.

Dry-fit the cedar sills and then miter the corners if the fit is correct. Coat the tops of the spreaders with construction adhesive and nail the cedar sills in place with exterior finish nails.

Miter-cut retainer strips from 3/4” quarter-round stock for the window openings. Drill pilot holes for nailing, then coat the bottom faces of the strips with construction adhesive and nail them in place with exterior finish nails. You may have to adjust for the windows you reclaim. The windows here varied in height by up to 1/2”.

Lay a thin bead of clear silicone caulk into the retainer strip channel for the first window.

With a helper, carefully and evenly set the window into position. Have the helper hold the window in place for the next step.

Pin the window in place with small brads to allow the silicone to set. Repeat the installation process with the rest of the windows for the three walls.

Measure and cut 2 × 6 fascia boards for the top of each wall. Use 3” 6d galvanized nails to tack the board to the top plates of the wall all the way around. The fascia should cover any gaps at the tops of the windows.

Measure and cut 1 × 3 cedar strips to run between the fascia at the top and the sill. Drill pilot holes and nail the strips in place on the studs with 3” 6d nails.

Measure and cut 1/2” exterior grade plywood for the half-wall cladding at the bottom of each wall. Nail it in place with 2” 6d nails.

Measure and cut 2 × 4 cedar base trim, 1 × 3 cedar corner boards, and 1 × 3 cedar battens. Nail them in place with exterior finish nails, positioning the battens between the base trim and the underside of the sill, continuing the vertical line of the stile trim.

Frame the front wall (12” higher than the side walls) in place by measuring and marking stud and doorjamb positions and toe-nailing the members in place. Nail the top cap to the top of the studs and install the door header. Install the door so that it opens outward.

Use 21/2” deck screws to toe-screw the front cripple studs for the triangular top walls on both sides.

Measure and cut the other cripple studs in each top wall and toe-screw them in place with 21/2” deck screws. Check that each is plumb and square to the top plate. Miter each end of the top plates and screw them to the cripple studs on each wall.

Measure and cut the 2 × 4 rafters and toe-screw them running front wall to back wall. There should be a 6” overhang on both ends.

Measure and cut the 2 × 2 purlins for the gaps between the rafters. Toe-screw them in place, spaced 111/2” on center.

Cut and screw the fiberglass panel nailing strips to the top of each purlin.

Drill pilot holes for the fiberglass panels and screw them in place to the purlins using 1” screws and rubber washers. Paint or stain the exterior of the greenhouse and, if using in a cooler season, cover all the clerestory windows with 6–8 mil plastic sheeting stapled in place.

Why build just one old-window cold frame when you can build an entire bank of them, like this greenhouse owner did?

This old-window cold frame can be built with materials found on most any home renovation site, or you may even have them in the back of your garage or basement.

Stand a rear frame board with the face flush to the back edge of the sloped side frame piece. Mark the angled bevel cut on the edge of the rear frame board. Repeat the process with the front frame board.

Use a table saw adjusted to the correct angle, or a jigsaw set to the miter, to bevel-cut the top edges of the front and back frame boards. Drill pilot holes in the edges of the framing pieces, two for each board, at each joint. Tack the frame together with 6d common nails. Check to make sure that the window you’ve reclaimed fits the frame perfectly and make any adjustments if it does not.

Hold each back post in place and mark a cutting line along the sloped side frame. Do the same with the front posts. Use a table saw or handsaw and miter box to make the angled cuts on each post.

Drill pilot holes and screw the posts in place in each corner of the box.

Clean up the window, sanding rough spots as necessary, and recaulking the window if needed. Prime and paint the window (paint it a darker color to absorb heat during the day and release it at night).

Mark the placement of the three hinges and screw them to the window frame and rear box frame. Measure and mark for the sash handle on the front of the frame and screw it in place. If desired, cut a 1× scrap piece to about 15” long to use as a support post to hold the window open when you work in the cold frame.

Look for green, freshly cut branches 3/4 to 1” in diameter. If you can find 10-footers, that’s perfect; otherwise, lash shorter ones together as shown in this project.

A simple hoophouse like this, formed of branches and reclaimed lumber, can be a wonderful addition to any garden for little or no cost.

Use a hacksaw to cut the PVC pipe scraps to 8” long (they can be longer, but not shorter). Cut one end of each pipe scrap on the diagonal at a severe angle to create a stake point.

Attach the PVC pipes to the inside frame faces, spacing them 1’ apart. Use two pipe strap clamp brackets per pipe. The pipes should project about 1” above the top edge of the frame side.

Move the base frame to the final site. Check that the frame is level and square by measuring diagonals and adjust as necessary. Use a wood mallet to hammer the PVC stakes into the ground, alternating sides, until the frame is secure.

Install the branch hoops by placing one end of each branch in a PVC stake and slowly bending the other ends across the top. Secure the branches together at the top with several zip ties. The branches should hold securely in the stakes with friction, but if any of them wants to pop out, drive a screw through the side of the PVC stake and into the branch.

Lay the ridge pole along the top edge of the frame base side and mark the positions of the PVC pipe stakes on the branch. Cut slight notches at the marks with a jigsaw. Lay the ridge branch across the hoops so they fit into the notches and zip-tie the hoops to the ridge pole.

Position each front and back support in place with one end against the ground on the inside of the frame and the other against the end hoops. Mark cutting lines where the end hoops intersect the tops of the supports, then cut the front and back supports to fit. Screw the front and back supports to the frame at the bottoms, and secure the top to the hoops with conduit brackets.

Drape the hoops with the plastic sheeting. Cut the sheet to fit, then either double-fold the edges and staple them to the base frame or let them flow over onto the ground and secure them with bricks. Cut a smaller piece of plastic to use as a door flap, and staple it into place.

A bamboo trellis like this is great for bolstering any climbing plant. You can build a taller version for pole beans and other aggressive climbers or add more crosspieces or weave kite string between poles to support delicate vines.

Measuring from the trimmed top ends of the vertical poles, cut the two outer support poles to length at 48”, and cut the four vertical crosspieces at 36”. The middle support pole and horizontal crosspieces should be about 60” long; cut them to length only if necessary.

Break out the nodes in the bottom ends of the three vertical support poles, using a hammer and #2 rebar or other metal rod, shaking out the broken pieces as you work. Remove any nodes within the bottom 18” of each pole.

TIP: If the first node is close to the end, it might help to drill several holes through the node before breaking it out.

Mark the poles for positioning, using a pencil; these are layout marks that represent the pole intersections. Mark the vertical support poles at 12” and 36” from the bottom ends. On each horizontal crosspiece, make a mark at the center and at 6”, 14”, and 22” from each end. Finally, make a mark at 6” from each end of the vertical crosspieces.

Lash the remaining horizontal crosspiece at the upper marks on the support poles. Position the vertical crosspieces on top of the horizontals, and lash the poles together at each intersection.

Position the completed trellis framework in the desired location of the garden or planting bed. The back sides of the vertical support poles should face away from the planting area. Press down on the framework so the vertical support poles make an impression in the soil, marking the locations of the rebar spikes.

Drive a 36” length of #3 rebar (or other size that fits snugly inside the vertical support poles) into the soil at each pole impression, using a hand maul. Use a level to check the bar for plumb as you work. Drive the bars 18” into the soil.

Set stones, bricks, or other bits of masonry material around each piece of rebar. Fit the ends of the vertical support poles over the rebar so they stand squarely on the stones. Check the trellis with a level and adjust for squareness or plumb, as needed, by adding or moving the stones.

In this chapter:

• Cold Frame Box

• Jumbo Cold Frame

• Raised Planting Bed

A cold frame is positioned over tender plants early in the growing season to trap heat and moisture so they get a good, strong start. This cold frame doesn’t rely on finding old windows for the top, so anyone can build it.

Cut the parts to size with a circular saw or jigsaw and cutting guide. Mark the cutting lines first (See Diagram).

Assemble the front, back and side panels into a square box. Glue the joints and clamp them together with pipe or bar clamps. Adjust until the corners are square.

Reinforce the joints with 2 or 21/2” deck screws driven through countersunk pilot holes. Drive screws every 4 to 6” along each joint.

Make the lid frame. Cut the 4”-wide strips of 3/4” plywood reserved from step 1 into frame parts (2 @ 31” and 2 @ 38”). Assemble the frame parts into a square 38 × 39” frame. There are many ways to join the parts so they create a flat frame. Because the Plexiglas cover will give the lid some rigidity, simply gluing the joints and reinforcing with an L-bracket at each inside corner should be more than adequate structurally.

Paint the box and the frame with exterior paint, preferably in an enamel finish. A darker color will hold more solar heat.

Lay thick beds of exterior adhesive/caulk onto the tops of the frame and then seat the Plexiglas cover into the adhesive. Clean up squeeze-out right away. Once the adhesive has set, attach the lid with butt hinges and attach the handles to the sides.

Move the cold frame to the site. Clear and level the ground where it will set if possible. Some gardeners like to excavate the site slightly.

A cold frame can extend the growing season in your garden to almost—or truly—year-round. Use an oversized cold frame like the one in this project and there may be no need to put up vegetables in the fall, because you’ll have all the fresh produce you can handle.

Stabilize the corners of the canopy frame with braces cut to 45° angles at both ends. Install the braces on-the-flat, so their top faces are flush with the tops of the canopy frame. Drill pilot holes and fasten through the braces and into the frame with one 21/2” screw at each end. Then, drive one more screw through the outside of the frame and into each end of the brace. Check the frame for square as you work.

Assemble the canopy glazing framework using 1/2” PVC pipe. Cut all the ribs 37” long. You can cut these easily with a miter saw, hacksaw, or jigsaw.

Use 2” deck screws as receptors for the PVC pipes. Drive the screws in 1” from edge and 3/4” from the ends, angling the screws at about 35 to 45° toward the center. Leave about 3/4” of the screw exposed. Drive two additional screws in at 321/4” from each end.

Install the PVC ribs by putting one end over the 2” screw, then curving the PVC until the other end fits over the opposite screw. Take your time with this, and use a helper if you need.

NOTE: Hopefully you’ve remembered to buy the flexible PVC, not the Schedule 40 type used for indoor plumbing.

Hold up and mark a smooth piece of clear acrylic for the end panels. The clear acrylic should cover the 2 × 3 and follow the curving top of the PVC. Cut the clear acrylic with a plastic-cutting jigsaw blade.

Drill 1/4” holes along the bottom of both panels about 5/8” up from the edge of the panel. Space the holes 21/2” from ends, then every 16”. Also mark and drill rib locations on the roof panels about 6” up from bottom, spacing the holes at 15/8” and 331/4” from each end. Install the panels 11/2” up from the bottom of the 2 × 3 with the roofing screws. The ends of the panels should extend 1” beyond the 2 × 3s.

Adjust the PVC ribs until the predrilled holes in the roof panels are centered on them, then predrill the PVC with a 1/8” bit. Fasten the panels to the two center ribs.

Lap the second sheet over the first, leaving roughly the same amount of panel hanging over the 2 × 3. Fasten the second sheet the same way as the first. Insert filler strips at each end under the polycarbonate, then drill through those into the PVC ribs. Now add additional screws about every 1/6”. You can just predrill the holes with the 1/8” bit (the polycarbonate panels are soft enough that the screws will drive through them without cracking).

Set the clear acrylic end panels in place, butting them against the filler at the top. Mark screw locations. Place the panel on a piece of plywood and predrill with a 1/4” diameter bit to avoid cracking the clear acrylic, which isn’t as soft or flexible as the polycarbonate. Screw the panels in place with roofing screws, hand-tightening with a screwdriver to avoid cracking the clear acrylic. Don’t overtighten.

Mount the canopy to the cold frame base with two exterior hinges. The canopy frame should fit flush over the base on all sides. Screw in two hook-and-eye latches in front.

Attach a prop stick to each side with a stainless-steel bolt and nut. Insert three washers (or more) between the prop stick and the 2 × 6 base so the prop stick clears the clear acrylic side panel. Drill a few additional 5/16” holes in the stick and the frame for the eyebolts, so you can prop the canopy open at different heights. Now, prepare the ground and place the cold frame in the desired location. Anchor the base to the ground using 16” treated stakes or heavy-duty metal angles driven into the ground and secured to the frame.

Raised garden beds are easy to weed, simple to water, and the soil quality is easier to control, ensuring that your vegetable plants yield bountiful fresh produce. Your garden beds can be built at any height up to waist-level. It’s best not to build them much taller than that, however, to make sure you can reach the center of your bed.

Outline a 3 × 5’ area with stakes and mason’s string. Remove all grass inside the area, then dig a 2”-deep × 6”-wide trench along the inside perimeter of the outline. Cut each of the four timbers into one 54” piece and one 30” piece, using a reciprocating saw or circular saw.

Set the first course of timbers in the trench. Check the timbers for level along their lengths and at the corners, adding or removing soil to adjust, as needed. Position the second course on top of the first, staggering the corner joints with those in the first course. Fasten the courses together at each corner with pairs of 6” nails driven through 3/16” pilot holes.

Line the bed with landscape fabric to contain the soil and help keep weeds out of the bed. Tack the fabric to the lower part of the top course with roofing nails. Some gardeners recommend drilling 1”-diameter weep holes in the bottom timber course at 2’ intervals. Fill with a blend of soil, peat moss and fertilizer (if desired) to within 2 or 3” of the top.

On a flat surface, assemble the panels and corner brackets (or hinge brackets) using the included hardware. Follow the kit instructions, making sure all corners are square.

Set the box down, experimenting with exact positioning until you find just the spot and angle you like. Be sure to observe the sun over an entire day when choosing the sunniest spot you can for growing vegetables. Cut around the edges of the planting bed box with a square-nose spade, move the box and then slice off the sod in the bed area.

Set the bed box onto the installation site and check it for level. Add or remove soil as needed until it is level. Stake the box to the ground with the provided hardware. Add additional box kits on top of or next to the first box. Follow the manufacturer’s suggestion for connecting the modular units. Line the bed or beds with landscape fabric and fill with soil to within 2” or so of the top box.

Filled with carefully prepared soil, a raised bed offers high yields in a relatively small space. This simple, inexpensive bed design includes wood cleats installed along its top edges—a handy feature for clamping down covers of all types.

Assemble the frame by setting the sides over the ends of the end pieces so they are flush at the top and outside edges. Drill three evenly spaced pilot holes through the sides and into the end pieces and fasten the parts with 31/2” deck screws.

Create the corner posts by cutting the 8’ 4 × 4 into four pieces roughly 24” each. Trim the ends of each post to a point, using a reciprocating saw or handsaw.

Set the bed frame into place, then measure diagonally between opposing corners to check for square: the frame is square when the measurements are equal.

TIP: For general soil preparation, turn over the soil beneath the bed and add compost or manure, as desired, before setting down the frame.

Drive a post at each corner inside the frame, using a hand sledge and a wood block to prevent mushrooming the post top. Drive the posts until the tops are about 2” below the top of the bed frame. Check the frame for level, then drill pilot holes and fasten each side and end piece to a post with 31/2” deck screws.

Add a 2 × 4 stake at the midpoint of each frame side, to help keep the lumber from bowing out over time. Cut the stake to a point and drive it down below the top edge of the frame. Tack the stake to the frame with a couple of screws.

Install the cleats: Rip a 1 × 4 into four 3/4”-wide strips, using a circular saw or table saw (it’s okay if the last strip isn’t exactly 3/4”). Fasten the strips along the perimeter of the bed frame, flush with the top edges, using 11/4” deck screws driven through pilot holes. Cut the strips to length as needed to complete each run. Fill the bed with soil and compost, as desired.

Mark and drill the ridge pole for the cover frame, using one of the 10’ PVC pipes. Make a mark 1” from each end, then mark every 24” in between. The marks should form a straight line down the length of the pipe. At each mark, drill a 3/16”-diameter hole straight down through the pipe.

Prepare the cover frame ribs by cutting six 3/4”-diameter PVC pipes to length at 96”, using a hacksaw or tubing cutter. Then, make a mark at the midpoint (48”) of each rib, and drill a 3/16” hole straight through the pipe at each mark.

Assemble the cover frame, using 11/2” machine bolts and wing nuts. Fit a rib over the top of the ridge pole at each hole location. Insert the bolt through the rib and ridge and secure with a wing nut. The wing nuts allow for quick disassembly of the frame.

Install the cover frame into the bed by fitting one end of each rib against a frame side, inside the box area, and then bending the rib and fitting the other end inside the frame. It helps to have two people for this job, starting at one end of the frame and working down.

Add the cover material of your choice. Drape the cover over the cover frame, center it side-to-side and end-to-end, and secure it on all sides with clamps fitted over the cleats. To prevent overheating with plastic covers, you can roll up the cover at the ends and clamp it to the outside ribs.

This easy-to-build starter rack (above) holds up to 12 full-size seedling flats or trays and can be located practically anywhere with an accessible electrical outlet. The top shelf offers a handy space for storing extra flats and other supplies. Wire utility shelving (below) offers an easy-to-assemble alternative to building your own rack. Most inexpensive units are only 14” deep and can accommodate one row of seedling flats per shelf. Use one or two light fixtures above each shelf, as appropriate for your needs.

Assemble the shelf frames with 31/2” deck screws. Position the side pieces of each frame over the ends of the end pieces and so their top edges are flush. Drill pilot holes and drive two screws through the sides and into the ends. Complete all four shelf frames using the same technique.

Add the shelves. Cut four shelves at 24 × 48”, using a circular saw and straightedge cutting guide. Check each shelf frame with a framing square, then lay the shelf over the top so it’s centered side-to-side and end-to-end. Fasten the shelf to the frame with 15/8” deck screws.

Mark the shelf locations onto the legs. Measuring from the bottom of one leg, make marks at 71/2”, 311/2”, and 551/2”. These marks represent the top edges of the shelves; the top shelf is installed flush with the top ends of the legs. Use the framing square to transfer the layout marks to the remaining three legs.

Fasten the shelves to each leg with two 21/2” deck screws driven through the shelf ends and into the legs. The top edges of each shelf should be on its layout marks (or flush with the ends of the legs), and the front and rear sides should be flush with the outside edges of the legs. Use a square to make sure the shelf and legs are perpendicular before fastening.

Hang the light fixtures, using chain and S-hooks. Cut the chain into 18” lengths, using wire cutters, and attach each to one end of each fixture, using S-hooks or wire, as applicable. Attach the other end of the chains to the plywood shelf above, using S-hooks.

Route the fixture cords to the nearest leg of the rack and secure them with zip ties or insulated cable staples. Be sure to leave enough slack in the cord to allow for moving the fixture up and down. If necessary, use an approved extension cord to extend a fixture cord to the power strip location.

Plug the light fixtures into an approved (grounded) power strip, and plug the power strip into a 24-hour timer installed in a GFCI-protected wall receptacle. If the circuit or receptacle is not GFCI-protected, replace the existing receptacle with a GFCI receptacle, following the manufacturer’s directions.

A greenhouse bench should be practical, lightweight, and space-efficient. This simple bench is highly adaptable and easy to move around. The ample lower shelf provides maximum storage area without taking up unnecessary floor space.

Install the top supports between the side pieces, spacing them 24” apart on center. First, mark layout lines onto both side pieces, then square the frame by measuring diagonally between opposing corners; the frame is square when the measurements are equal. Fasten the supports with pairs of 31/2” deck screws.

Attach the legs to the inside corners of the top frame, using 21/2” deck screws. The top ends of the legs should be flush with the top edges of the frame. Use a framing square to make sure each leg is perpendicular to the frame before fastening.

Assemble the shelf frame in the same manner as the top frame. Mark the inside face of each leg 10” up from the bottom end. Position the shelf frame with its top edges on the marks, and fasten it to the legs with 21/2” deck screws driven through the frame ends. The side frame pieces should be flush with the outside edges of the legs.

Add the top and shelf surface material. Galvanized wire mesh fencing is shown here (see here for other options). Cut the 24”-tall fencing to length at 95”, using aviation snips. Round over any sharp cut ends of wire with a metal file. Center the mesh over the top frame, leaving a 1/2” margin at all sides. Fasten the mesh with 11/2” horseshoe nails. Trim and install the shelf mesh in the same fashion.

Exterior plywood offers a smooth, continuous surface for a bench top or shelf. One full 4 × 8’ sheet of 3/4”-thick plywood will cover a full-size bench top and shelf. Fasten plywood to the frame parts with 11/2” deck screws. Keep in mind that a plywood surface won’t drain like a permeable material; you may want to pitch the bench slightly to one side for drainage. Coat it with deck stain or paint to make it easier to clean and more stain resistant.

1 × 4 or 1 × 6 cedar boards or decking boards make an attractive top surface and offer some runoff, depending on how widely the boards are gapped. For the bench top, run boards parallel to the length of the top frame; for the shelf, run them perpendicular to the length of the shelf frame.

Protect stored items from draining water with a simple “roof” made with a single panel of corrugated plastic or fiberglass roofing. Use 2 × 4s between the leg pairs to support the panel, sloping the panel down toward one end at 1/4” per foot. Secure the panel at the top end with a couple of screws.

This potting bench uses the structural members of a greenhouse kneewall for support. The five slats at the right end can be removed to access a shelf for buckets and planters.

Attach the benchtop frame to the greenhouse wall studs using 3/8 × 3” lag screws. Before driving the lag screws, tack the back of the frame to the long wall with deck screws. The tops should be 36” above the floor. Then, clamp a 2 × 4 brace to the front rail of the frame and adjust it until level. Drill guide holes and drive one lag screw per wall stud at the back rail and on the ends.

Install the front legs. Each leg is created with a pair of 2 × 4s face-nailed or screwed together. The front 2 × 4 in each pair should fit between the frame and the floor. The back 2 × 4 in each pair is 21/2” longer to provide a surface for attaching the frame and legs. Join the leg halves with glue and 21/2” deck screws.

Attach each leg to the frame with a pair of 1/2 × 31/2” carriage bolts. Drill guide holes for the bolt and counterbores for the nuts and washers in the back face of the frame. Do not use washers behind carriage bolt heads.

Attach a 2 × 4 ledger to the front wall studs to support the 2 × 4 shelf supports that run from the front of the bench to the wall. Use 3” deck screws driven at kneewall stud locations.

Attach 2 × 4 shelf supports to the legs and attach a 2 × 4 shelf support to the endwall. Then, fasten the shelving material to the tops of the supports. The best height for the shelf depends on the height of the containers you plan to set on the shelves beneath the removable section of the top.

Glue and screw 2 × 2 cleats around the inside perimeter of the benchtop frame. The cleats should be positioned so they are level and the top faces of the deckboard slats will be about 1/8” above the frame tops when they rest on the cleats. Install a full-length cleat along the back wall and fill in between the legs at the front.

Cut the benchtop slats from treated or cedar decking (or composite if you prefer). Attach the slats over the first two bays by driving a pair of deck screws into each slat end and the cleat below. Do not fasten the deckboards over the right end bay. Drill 1” finger holes near the end of each board and simply set them on the cleats so they can be removed to access the shelf below. If you wish, coat the bench with deck finish.

This potting bench has a 28 × 71” top and is built with four 2 × 4s and three standard-size decking boards. The handy pot shelf below the bench top is made with a cutoff from one of the deck boards.

Mark the layout for the top supports. Measuring from one end of the top frame, mark both frame sides every 135/8”. Check the top frame for square, using a framing square. Install the top supports between the frame sides with 31/2” deck screws driven through the frame sides and into the supports. Make sure the supports and frame sides are flush across the top.

Cut the four legs from one 12’ 2 × 4. Round-over the edges on the bottom end of each leg, using sandpaper, a file, or a router and roundover bit; this prevents splintering if the table is slid around. Install the legs at the inside corners of the top frame, driving 21/2” deck screws through the legs and into the top frame ends. Also screw through the top frame sides and into the legs. Make sure the legs are square to the frame before fastening.

Mark the inside edge of each leg, 10” up from its bottom end. Measure the distance between each leg pair and cut a leg support to fit snugly between the legs, using the 10’ 2 × 4. Install the leg supports with their bottom edges on the marks; drive 31/2” screws toenail style through the top and bottom edges of the supports and into the legs.

Cut the 2 × 4 stretcher to fit snugly between the leg supports, using the remainder of the 10’ 2 × 4. Install the stretcher so it’s centered side-to-side on each support, with the top edges flush. Drive 31/2” screws through the outsides of the leg supports and into the stretcher ends.

Cut the top decking boards to length. Clamp the first board in place so it overhangs the front and ends of the top frame by 3/4”. If the deck boards are crowned (slightly curved across the face), make sure the convex side faces up. Drill two pilot holes at the center of each top frame end and top support location, countersinking the holes slightly. Fasten the board with 21/2” deck screws.

Install the remaining deck boards so all of their ends are perfectly aligned and each board is gapped 1/8” from the next (without gaps, the joints would trap dirt). Use pieces of 1/8”-thick hardboard or two 1/8”-diameter drill bits to set the gaps. The last board should overhang the rear frame side by 3/4”.

Complete the pot shelf by cutting the remaining half-piece of deck board to length. Position the board so it is centered side-to-side over the stretcher and overhangs both leg supports by 3/4”. Fasten the board to the stretcher and leg supports with 21/2” deck screws driven through pilot holes.

Not all pots are the same height. With two different working heights, this bench is comfortable to use whether you’re planting seeds in starter trays or planting a 5-gallon planter with tomatoes.

Assemble the Frame

Attach two back rails and one bottom rail to the long leg, back strut, and back right mid-length leg with 2-inch deck screws. Check that all of the parts intersect at 90-degree angles. Attach the front rail and one bottom rail to the left front mid-length leg, front strut, and short leg. Connect the back assembly and front assembly by attaching them to the cross supports (photo 2).

Cut the shelf supports. Use a bandsaw or a jigsaw to make the 31/2” radius roundovers on the ends of the shelf supports. Sand smooth.

Assemble the bench frame. Clamp the cross supports to the front and back assemblies. Attach the cross supports with 2” deck screws.

Attach the Worktop Planks

Cut the deck boards that will be used to create the work surfaces to length. We used composite deck boards because they require little maintenance and are easy to clean. Place the front deck board for the lower work surface against the backside of the front left leg and front strut. Mark the point where the front leg and strut intersect the deck board. Using these marks, draw the 33/4” deep notch outlines and cut out the notches with a jigsaw (photo 3).

Cut notches. Lay out notches in the front board for the low work surface where the board must fit around the front leg and front strut. Use a jigsaw to cut the notches.

Install the worktop slats. Use composite screws to attach the composite deck boards that create the upper and lower worktops.

Attach the Shelf & Rack

Attach the shelf back, shelf hook rail, and shelf supports to the long leg and back strut with 21/2-inch deck screws. Attach the shelf to the shelf supports with 2-inch deck screws. Fasten the hooks to the shelf hook rail (photo 5).

Install the shelf and hook rail. Attach the shelf to the shelf supports. Drill pilot holes for each screw to prevent splitting the shelf supports. Once the hook rail is installed twist in the cup hooks.

The lettuce table can be used to grow more than lettuce. It simply draws its name from its original purpose, which is to provide a shallow bed for growing lettuces in an easy-to-reach spot that can be moved easily around your yard. This interpretation is on the large side to allow you to grow several varieties, but you can easily modify the simple plan to build a more compact version.

Wearing leather gloves, cut the hardware cloth to size. Cut out a 2 × 4” section at each corner for the legs. Center it on the underside of the cedar frame—it should be about 1/4” in from the edge on all sides. Nail it every 6” on the center divider, but first mark and cut out a 2 × 4” slot at the center of the divider. Pull the cloth flat and nail it several times on each side and the ends. No need to overdo it—the edges of the cloth will be covered and secured with 1 × 2s later.

Cut the legs from the pressure-treated wood and assemble them into two leg pairs. Screw the inner and outer legs together, leaving a 31/2” gap at the top. The top frame will sit on the ledges created at the top. Leave the bottom legs off for now. Make sure the legs are parallel to each other, then join them together with the side rails. Spread a bead of construction adhesive before attaching the two pieces. Set the legs down parallel to each other and join them with the side rails.

With the tray turned upside down, fit the legs onto the ends. Check that they’re square to the frame and sitting flat underneath it—if you see daylight between the inner leg and the tray, trim the outer leg a little so the gap disappears. Screw each leg to both parts of the cedar frame.

Attach the stretcher with 2 1/2” screws. Use clamps to hold the wood in place while you predrill and fasten. Also measure and cut the bottoms of the legs, and fasten with adhesive and screws.

Place the tray on the ground, right-side up. Screw the top stretcher to the rails and lower stretcher. Measure the distance from the stretchers to the center divider and cut and fasten the support. Add 1/16” to your measurement just to make sure you have a snug fit.

Predrill the 1 × 2s every 8 to 10”. Flip the tray over then screw the 1 × 2s to the bottom of the tray, flush with the outside edges and covering the hardware cloth.

Finally, staple on landscape fabric or aluminum screen on the inside of the tray to hold the soil in. Fill the tray with a soilless growing media and fertilizer—not ordinary topsoil. For best results, replace the soilless mix every year, as it becomes compressed over time.

Attach the side cleats flush with the tops of the side boards.

Step 2: Install the Bin Bottom

1. Cut the bottom boards (N) to length. Set the bin upside down on your work surface, and mark reference lines on the inside faces of the panels, 7/8” in from the bottom of the bin. Insert the bottom boards into the bin, aligned with the reference lines to create a 7/8” recess. Scraps of 1× cedar can be put beneath the bottom boards as spacers.

Step 3: Build the Planter Base

1. The planter base is scalloped to create feet at the corners.

2. Cut the base front and back (B) and the base ends (C) to length. To draw the contours for the scallops on the front and back boards, set the point of a compass at the bottom edge of the base front, 5” in from one end. Set the compass to a 21/2” radius and draw a curve to mark the curved end of the cutout. Draw a straight line to connect the tops of the curves, 21/2” up from the bottom of the board, to complete the scalloped cutout.

Step 4: Attach the Bin to the Base

1. Set the base frame and planter bin on their backs. Position the planter bin inside the base so it extends 7/8” past the top of the base.

The recess beneath the bottom boards in the planter bin provides access for driving screws.

Step 5: Make the Cap Frame

1. Cut the cap front (D), cap ends (E), and cap back (F) to length. Cut 45° miters at one end of each cap end and at both ends of the cap front.

Before attaching the cap ends, drill pilot holes through the mitered ends of the cap-front ends.

Step 6: Make the Trellis

1. The trellis is made from pieces in a crosshatch pattern. The exact number and placement of the pieces is up to you—use the same spacing we used (see Drawing) or create your own.

Temporary spacers hold the posts in position while the rails are attached.

Step 7: Apply Finishing Touches

1. Fasten the trellis to the back of the planter bin so the bottoms of the posts rest on the top edge of the base. Drill pilot holes in the posts. Counterbore the holes. Drive 21/2” deck screws through the posts and into the cap frame. With a 1”-diameter spade bit, drill a pair of drainage holes in each bottom board. Stain the project with an exterior wood stain.

This efficient planter combines a box for container gardening with a climbing trellis and a pair of profiled arms for hanging potted plants.

Mark the post bevel cuts. The lines at the top of each back post should be drawn 1” out from the corner and should run down the post for 12”.

Cut the bevels. Tilt the foot of a jigsaw at a 45° angle so it will ride smoothly on the post face and follow the bevel cutting line. Make a bevel cut along the layout line.

Make the shoulder cut. Use a handsaw to cut into the corner of the post to meet the bevel cut, creating a shoulder for the beveled corner.

Rip 1 × 6 stock for siding. Using a table saw or a circular saw and cutting guide, rip enough material for the sides and the front to 23/4”.

Assemble the Base Planter

Attach the front siding strips to the front posts with 2-inch deck screws. Align the ends of the siding pieces flush with the sides of the front legs. Leave a 1/4-inch space between the siding boards. Drive one screw through each end of each siding board and into the front legs. Drill a countersunk pilot hole for each screw. Attach the front post trim pieces to the front posts with three or four 2-inch brad nails or finish nails. Align the front edge of the trim pieces flush with the front face of the front siding. Attach the back panel to the back posts with six 2-inch screws. Drive three screws into each post.

Add the latticework. Attach the horizontal climbing rails to the back posts with 2” screws. Use one screw at each lattice connection to the posts.

Install siding. Attach the siding to the front and back posts with 2” screws. After completing one side, flip the project and complete the other side. Then, install siding strips on the front.

Build the Plant Hangers

Cut the hanger backs, hanger arms, and hanger braces to length. Draw the hanger arm profile onto the side of each hanger arm, and use a compass to draw the radius profiles. Profile details are shown on the construction drawings (shown here). Use a jigsaw to cut along the profile layout lines on the hanger arms. Both ends of the hanger brace are mitered at 45 degrees, but the back or bottom end is a compound miter cut, meaning that it has both a miter and a bevel component. Cut the top-end 45-degree miters on all four braces. Then, make compound cuts at the bottom ends of the hanger braces (photo 7). Make the cuts so the beveled end faces the post when it is attached.

Cut the hanger brace angles. After cutting a flat 45° miter in the top end of the hanger brace, make a compound bevel/miter cut in the bottom end so it will fit flat against the bevel cut in the post.

Install the hanger braces. Clamp the hanger braces to the hanger arms and hanger backs. Attach the hanger braces with 2” screws driven into the hanger back and into the hanger arm. Drive two screws at each connection.

Fill Planter

The planter itself is lined with heavy (at least 4-mil thick) black plastic sheeting. Cut the sheeting pieces that cover the sides, front, and bottom several inches oversized so they overlap in the corners. Cut the back sheeting the same size as the back panel. Attach the plastic to the inside faces of the planter with staples (photo 9). Start with the bottom sheet, overlap the sides on the bottom, and then overlap the front over the sides and bottom. Finally overlap the back over the sides, leaving a small gap between the bottom of the back sheet and the bottom sheet to allow water to drain out. Fill the planter with potting soil and add your plants.

TIP: Adding a few inches of gravel to the bottom of the planting compartment allows for better drainage.

Line the container. Attach 4-mil black plastic liner with 3/8” stainless steel staples. Overlap the plastic in the corners and leave a small gap along the back bottom edge for drainage.

Based on the cold frame platform seen here to here, this solar dryer lets you dry fruit and vegetables quickly, naturally, and in a more sanitary fashion than simply air-drying.

Install the mesh. Staple the screen to the frame. Then tack the retainer strips over the screen to the frame with 3 to 4 brad nails per side. Trim off the excess mesh.

Build the stand. Attach each 24” board to a 30” board (in the back) and a 22” board (in the front) with 11/2” deck screws. Then attach the finished posts to the frame with three 11/2” deck screws in each post.

Drill three 1” holes for ventilation in each 1 × 6” board equally spaced along the length of the board, leaving 5” of room on each end for the posts. Staple leftover insect mesh behind the ventilation holes on the inside of the frame.

Finish the project by sliding the window sash into place.