Black & Decker the Complete Guide to Tile, 4th Edition - Ceramic, Stone, Porcelain, Terra Cotta

In this chapter:

• Floor Tile

Floor tiles are thicker and almost always larger than wall tiles. Ceramic floor tiles are usually between 1/4 and 1/2” thick.

Wall tiles are usually less than 1/4” thick and no larger than 6 × 6”, with 4 × 4” tiles the most common. Lightweight tiles are less likely to sag during installation.

Glass tile is an especially interesting option for walls, although in some applications it can be used on floors as well. It is available in a variety of colors, degrees of translucency, shapes, and sizes. Because most glass tile is translucent to some degree, it’s important to use a white tile adhesive that won’t affect the appearance of the tiles once they are installed. Glass is impervious to moisture, but can be scratched and cracked, so it shouldn’t be installed where it will get hit by swinging doors or scratched by general traffic. See pages 24 to 25 to learn more about glass tile.

Metal and wood tiles are quite expensive per square foot, but adding just a few to an installation of glazed or porcelain tiles can have a big impact. Metal tiles are installed just like standard tiles, and they are available in shapes and thicknesses to work in most layouts. They are available with smooth finishes, polished or unpolished, and with embossed designs. Some metals may weather and discolor with time and exposure to moisture. Wood tiles are a new product that comes in different shapes and thicknesses and the same finishes and appearances as wood floors.

Natural stone tile is marble, granite, slate, and other more exotic stones cut very precisely into tiles of various sizes that can be installed just like manufactured tile. Because stone is a natural material, variations in color, texture, and markings must be expected. Manufacturers do offer stone tiles with some added finish. In addition to polished tile, suppliers offer a variety of distressed and textured finishes that can be very attractive as well as slip-resistant. With the exception of granite, natural stone tends to be quite porous and requires periodic sealing to prevent staining. Also, not all types are uniformly abrasion-resistant, so check before making a purchase. Some stone is so soft that it can be very easily scratched by normal use.

Terra-cotta tile evokes images of rustic patios in Mexico or perhaps sunny piazzas on the Mediterranean. These images are quite appropriate because terra-cotta tile originated in these regions. The tile is traditionally made by pressing unrefined clay into molds of various shapes and firing it (terra-cotta literally means “baked earth”). The color of the tile, from brown to red to yellow, is largely a result of the minerals unique to the local soil. Machine-made terra-cotta tile is regular in shape and can be laid like standard tile, but traditional terra-cotta, especially handmade Mexican saltillo tile, has irregularities and uneven shapes and thus requires more care during installation. The variability and rustic character of the tile make up much of its appeal—and terra-cotta can be quite slip-resistant. Unglazed terra-cotta, which is porous and absorbent, should be treated with sealant before being used in wet locations.

Mosaic tiles are ceramic, porcelain, terra-cotta, stone, or other tile cut into small pieces. Individual small tiles are often mounted on a mesh backing so that large squares of many tiles can be installed at once. These squares may be a solid color or contain a pattern or image. Individual mosaic tiles are also available for making custom accents and mosaics. Mosaic tile can be very low maintenance or it can require periodic application of sealant, depending on the material. Mosaic tile is generally quite slip-resistant because of the large number of grout lines in an installation.

Trim tiles are designed to conceal exposed edges of field tile, especially on wall and counter installations. Bullnose tile is used to finish the edges of partial walls; cove and corner tile shields curves and corners; chair rail tile accents a wall of field tile or functions as an accent around edges. When planning a wall project, investigate available trim as part of the planning process.

A specialty tile shop or a larger home center will carry all or most of the materials you’ll need for your tiling project. It’s always a good idea to bring a few samples home to compare them and see how the color and scale work in the actual room in which they’ll be installed.

Use your room drawing to identify all the types of trim that will be necessary (above). Evaluate the trim available for the various tiles you’re considering and select a combination that meets the specifications of your project.

Buy all necessary tile, tools, and materials before you begin to avoid wasted trips and to make sure all the elements are appropriate for one another and the project.

You can design and paint your own custom tiles at many specialty ceramic stores. Order tile of the right size, bisque-fired but not glazed. You can then paint or stencil designs on the tile and have them fired.

Mix tile from carton to carton. Slight variations in color won’t be as noticeable mixed throughout the project as they would be if the color shifts from one area to another.

Snap the tile along the scored line, as directed by the tool manufacturer. Usually, snapping the tile is accomplished by depressing a lever on the tile cutter.

Sliding table wet saws offer good control and safety. They are relatively expensive to buy, so most DIYers rent them. You simply place the tile on the sliding table, secure it against the adjustable fence, and feed the table and tile slowly into the circular tile-cutting blade.

Fixed table wet tile saws also have an adjustable fence to guide the tile, but the operator slides the tile across the table surface and into the blade. The motors tend to be less powerful, but these models can be purchased for well under $100.

Move the top two tiles and spacer to the adjoining wall, making sure not to turn the tile that is being marked. Make a second mark on the tile as in step 1. Cut the tile and install.

Use a jigsaw. To cut square notches in a small number of wall tiles, clamp the tile down on a worktable, then fit the jigsaw with a diamond-coated blade to make the cuts. If you need to notch quite a few tiles, a wet saw is more efficient.

Use a rod saw. To make a small number of cuts in wall tile, you can use a rod saw. Fit a tungsten carbide rod saw into a hacksaw body. Firmly support the tile and use a sawing motion to cut the tile.

Use tile nippers. To make a very small notch, use tile nippers. Score the lines and then nibble up to the lines, biting very small pieces at a time.

Use a wet saw to make a series of closely spaced, parallel cuts, then nip away the waste with tile nippers.

To avoid breaking the tile, use the tile nippers to take very small bites out of the cut. Afterwards, use a rubbing stone to smooth the sharp edges of exposed cuts.

Place a 1/4” spacer against the wall and butt the tile against it. Mark the pipe center on the side edge of the tile. Using a combination square, draw a line through each mark to the edges of the tile.

Starting from the intersection of the lines at the center, draw a circle slightly larger than the pipe or protrusion.

Option 1: Drill around the edges of the hole using a ceramic tile bit. Gently knock out the waste material with a hammer. The rough edges of the hole will be covered by a protective plate (called an escutcheon).

Option 2: Score and cut the tile so the hole is divided in half, using the straight-cut method, then use the curved-cut method to remove waste material from each half of the circle.

Select a tungsten carbide hole saw in the appropriate size and attach it to a power drill. Place the tip at the marked center and drill the hole.

In this chapter:

• Safety

Basic safety equipment for use when working with tile includes: Ear protection to be worn when operating power tools (A); knee pads for comfort (B); safety goggles (C) or glasses (D); a NIOSH N-95 rated particle mask (E) or respirator to be worn when cutting tiles with a tile saw; work gloves for handling materials and working with sharp objects (F); rubber gloves (G) or latex gloves (H) to be worn when handling cementitious products such as thinset mortar.

Keep your tools sharp and clean. Accidents are more likely to occur when blades are dull and tools are filled with sawdust and dirt.

Use a GFCI receptacle, GFCI receptacle adapter, or GFCI extension cord to reduce the risk of shock while operating a power tool in wet conditions.

Check outlets with a circuit tester to make sure the power is off before removing cover plates, exposing wires, or drilling or cutting into walls that contain wiring.

Cement-based tile products such as this floor leveler must be mixed well with water. A 1/2” power drill with a mixing paddle attachment is a great help in this regard.

Floor levelers and resurfacers are applied prior to installing tile backer to address dips, valleys, and other uneven areas in a concrete floor or subfloor. An acrylic or latex fortifier helps the product flow more smoothly and gives it some extra flex, without sacrificing hardness.

Apply an even layer of concrete primer to the entire surface using a long-nap paint roller. Be careful to avoid painting yourself into a corner—don’t walk on wet primer. Let the primer dry completely.

Following the manufacturer’s instructions, mix the floor leveler with water. The batch should be large enough to cover the entire floor area to the desired thickness (up to 1”). Pour the leveler over the floor.

Distribute the leveler evenly, using a rake or spreader. Work quickly: the leveler begins to harden in 15 min. Use a trowel to feather the edges and create a smooth transition with an uncovered area. Let the leveler dry for 24 hrs.

Tile backer board is designed to retain its rigidity when damp—whether the dampness is from the thinset mortar during the application, or the conditions of the location. Cement or fiber/cement base backer (cementboard) is made in 1/4 and 1/2” thicknesses. Other fiberglass-based tile backers are lighter than cementboard and some installers find them easier to work with.

Peelback of a typical tile floor. The subfloor of 3/4” plywood or particleboard sheathing is covered with a layer of cementboard (you may use 1/4 or 1/2”) or tile backer is set into a bed of thinset mortar (in most cases) and fastened down with screws. The tile floorcovering is laid into another bed of thinset on top of the cementboard.

Cementboard screws are specially designed to penetrate the cementitious material without cracking it. They are also corrosion-resistant, which is important given the moisture in mortar.

Cementboard mesh tape is used to cover and reinforce the seams between cementboard panels. Don’t use regular mesh tapes for this job: they are not alkali-resistant and will degrade.

To score and snap cementboard using a scoring tool, measure and mark the rough side of the cement board to the desired size. Using a straightedge as a guide, score the board with a carbide scoring tool, then snap the panel evenly along the scored line. Score the panel deep enough to penetrate the glass-fiber mesh layer just below the surface of the cementboard.

Angle grinder. Snap reference lines using chalkline and cut along the line with an electric angle grinder equipped with a diamond blade. Use this tool only in a well-ventilated area and be sure to wear full safety protection.

Hole saw. To make round and curved cutouts in cementboard, try using a power drill fitted with a carbide or diamond-tipped hole saw. Mark the centerpoint of the cut on the panel and bore the hole at low speed. To improve performance, use a spray bottle filled with water to periodically moisten the cutting edge of the bit.

Rotary tool/spiral cutting saw. To make round cuts in cementboard using a rotary saw fitted with a tile cutting bit, adjust the circle cutter guide to the desired hole size and drill a pilot hole in the perimeter of the desired cut. Insert the pivot foot of the guide and the bit into the pilot hole and complete the cut.

Scoring tool. To make L-cuts in cementboard with a carbide scoring tool, mark the outline of the cut on both sides of the panel. Using a straightedge as a guide, score both sides of the panel and punch the waste material out from the back side of the panel using a hammer.

Jigsaw for straight cuts. To make L-cuts in cementboard with a jigsaw, mark the outline of the desired cut on the panel with a pencil. Fit the jigsaw with an abrasive blade and cut out and remove the waste material.

Jigsaw for rounds cuts. To make round cuts in cementboard using a jigsaw fitted with a carbide blade, mark the starting point of the cut on the panel and drill a starter hole. Insert the jigsaw blade into the pilot hole and complete the cut.

Tile membrane products include: Liquid roll-on waterproofing and crack prevention membrane (A); 40-mil crack prevention underlayment for repairs (B); waterproof tile membrane (C); shower pan liner (D); uncoupling membrane (E).

Thinset mortar is applied in a thick layer to make a bed for setting tile. It is sold in premixed tubs and in dry powder forms—most professionals prefer to mix their own. If the product you buy has not been modified with polymer additive, you can mix in latex additive yourself. Different thinset mortars have different ratios of additives and fortifiers for specific purposes. You will also find some color variation. Most is cement gray, but white thinset intended for use with glass tile is also available. You can also use white thinset to reduce the chance of color bleedthrough if you are applying a light-colored grout.

The type of trowel used to apply thinset is dictated mostly by the size of the tile being installed.

Materials and tools for grouting tile joints include: Dry mix, sanded grout (A); silicone grout sealer (B); tub-and-tile caulk (C); latex grout fortifier (D); margin trowel (E); grout sponge (F); grout float (G).

To make a small batch of mortar, add the proper ratio of water or liquid additive and dry powder to a container and stir by hand.

A power drill fitted with a mixing paddle is useful for mixing large quantities of mortar or grout at one time.

End-cutting nippers allow you to pull out staples remaining in the floor after carpeting is removed. This plier-like tool can also be used to break an edge on old tile so a chisel or pry bar can be inserted.

Heat guns are used to soften adhesives so vinyl base cove moldings and stubborn tiles can be pryed away from the wall. They are also used to remove old paint, especially when it is heavily layered or badly chipped.

Hand mauls are often used in combination with pry bars and chisels to remove old flooring and prepare surfaces for tile. They are helpful for leveling high spots on concrete floors and separating underlayments and subfloors.

Flat pry bars are used to remove wood base moldings from walls and to separate underlayments and floor coverings from subfloors. This tool is also effective for removing tiles set in mortar.

Chisels come in a variety of sizes for specific jobs. Masonry chisels are used with hand mauls to remove high spots in concrete. Cold chisels are used with hand mauls or hammers to pry tiles from mortar.

Floor scrapers are used to scrape and smooth patched areas on concrete floors, pry up flooring, and scrape adhesives and backings from underlayments.

Straightedges are used to mark damaged areas of substrate for removal. They are also used to measure and mark replacement pieces for cutting.

Jigsaws are handy when cutting notches, holes, and irregular shapes in new or existing substrates. They are also used to fit new substrate pieces to existing doorways.

Portable drills secure substrates to subfloors with screws selected for the thickness and type of substrate used.

Circular saws are used to remove damaged sections of subfloor and cut replacement pieces to fit.

Drywall squares are used to measure and mark substrates, such as cementboard, fiber-cementboard, and isolation membrane. They can also be used as straightedge guides for scoring and cutting substrates with a utility knife.

Utility knives are usually adequate for scoring straight lines in wallboard, cementboard, fiber-cementboard, and for cutting isolation membrane substrates. However, because cementboard and fiber-cementboard are thick, hard substrates, utility knife blades must be replaced often for best performance.

Cementboard knives are the best choice for scoring cementboard and fiber-cementboard. The blades on these knives are stronger and wear better than utility knife blades when cutting rough surfaces.

Trowels are useful for applying leveler on existing floors and for applying thinset mortar to substrates. Trowels can also be used to scrape away ridges and high spots after levelers or mortars dry.

Chalklines are snapped to mark the reference lines for layouts.

Tape measures are essential for measuring rooms and creating layouts. They’re also used to make sure that reference lines are perpendicular by using the 3-4-5 triangle method.

Straightedges are handy for marking reference lines on small areas. They can also be used to mark cutting lines for partial tiles.

Coping saws with rod saw blades are usually adequate for cutting soft tile, such as wall tile.

Wet saws, also called “tile saws,” employ water to cool both the blade and the tile during cutting. This tool is used primarily for cutting floor tile—especially natural stone tile—but it is also useful for quickly cutting large quantities of tile or notches in hard tile.

In this chapter:

• Gallery of Floor Tile Projects

Fit the format to the space. Large format tiles are great for making a relatively modest space seem much larger, as the big faux-stone porcelain tiles do in this modern living room. Larger tiles also translate to finer and fewer grout lines—making the look less busy and more in keeping with a clean, modern aesthetic.

Dare to lay a floor with flair. It may seem like a big risk, but a floor like this can always be moderated with an area rug if it turns out to overwhelm the space. In most cases, though, the color is a welcome break to the usually neutral color schemes that mark most kitchens.

Inject sizzle into a simple bathroom design with decorative floor tile. Because visitors only spend a limited time in the room, you can go a bit wild with the surface underfoot. Use dynamic painted cement tile such as the ones laid for this floor and the excitement is built in.

Pull together colors from other parts of the kitchen by using a floor of contrasting stone tiles. The tiles mimic the natural wood tones in this kitchen while adding a visual interest all their own.

Integrate unique tile where it will have the most impact. A foyer or mudroom provides the opportunity to show off beautiful tile. The small square footage ensures that you can buy a high-end tile without breaking the bank. Choose a rugged tile in any case—such as the cement tile used here—so that it will look good over the long run.

Go glam with granite. The high sheen and beautiful deep tones in this luxury stone make for an unforgettable floor that can singlehandedly elevate an entire room or home design.

Soothe with simple. Mono-color tile laid in a simple grid creates a calming effect that is pleasing to the eye and provides a platform for other design elements. The light, neutral color of this tile floor not only blends perfectly with the other natural tones in the kitchen, it offers a clean, spare stage for the kitchen at large.

Warm up a large, cool room with low-luster textured tiles. The dark tiles here contrast with the white and bright contemporary interior. The rich, deep brown creates a sumptuous surface underfoot and makes the large space seem cozy and welcoming.

Choose a special look where it will have maximum impact. Large format tiles such as these are the chance to stun, by choosing from among the many exceptional finishes available at retail. This tile almost looks like rusted metal, but is a reasonably priced alternative to plain, mono-color ceramic versions.

Measure vertical spaces in kitchens and bathrooms to ensure the proper fit of appliances and fixtures after the installation of tile. Use a sample of the tile and any additional underlayment as spacers while measuring.

To remove baseboards, place a scrap board against the wall to avoid damaging the drywall. Remove the baseboard using a pry bar placed against the scrap board. Pry the baseboard at all nail locations. Number the baseboards as they are removed.

To prepare door jambs, measure the height of your underlayment and tile and mark the casing. Using a jamb saw, cut the casing at the mark.

To test the height of the door jamb, slide a tile under the door jamb to make sure it fits easily.

Remove the nuts from the tank bolts using a ratchet wrench. Carefully remove the tank and set it aside.

Pry off the floor bolt trim caps, then remove the nuts from the floor bolts. Rock the bowl from side to side to break the seal, then lift the toilet from the bolts and set it aside. Wear rubber gloves while cleaning up any water that spills from the toilet trap.

Scrape the old wax from the toilet flange, and plug the drain opening with a damp rag so sewer gas doesn’t escape into the house. If you’re going to reinstall the old toilet, clean the old wax and plumber’s putty from around the horn and base of the toilet.

Pedestal sink: Disconnect the plumbing. If the sink and pedestal are bolted together, disconnect them. Remove the pedestal first, supporting the sink from below with 2 × 4s. Slice through any caulk or sealant. Lift the sink off the wall brackets (inset).

Slice through any caulk or sealant between the wall and the countertop. Remove the countertop from the vanity, using a pry bar if necessary.

Remove the screws or nails (usually driven through the back rail of the cabinet) that anchor the vanity to the wall and remove cabinet.

Use a floor scraper to remove resilient flooring products and to scrape off leftover adhesives or backings. The long handle provides leverage and force, and it allows you to work in a comfortable standing position. A scraper will remove most flooring, but you may need to use other tools to finish the job.

Pull up as much flooring as possible by hand, gripping the strips close to the floor to minimize tearing.

Cut stubborn sheet vinyl into strips about 5” wide. Starting at a wall, peel up as much of the floor covering as possible. If the felt backing remains, spray a solution of water and liquid dishwashing detergent under the surface layer to help separate the backing. Use a wallboard knife to scrape up particularly stubborn patches.

Scrape up the remaining sheet vinyl and backing using a floor scraper. If necessary, spray the backing again with the soap solution to loosen it. Sweep up the debris, then finish the cleanup with a wet/dry vacuum. Fill the vacuum with about an inch of water to help contain dust.

Remove stubborn adhesive or backing by wetting the floor with a water/detergent mixture, then scraping with a floor scraper.

If you plan to reuse the underlayment, use a floor scraper to remove any remaining adhesive. You may have to use a belt sander with a coarse sanding belt to grind off stubborn adhesive.

Cut the carpet into pieces small enough to be easily removed. Roll up the carpet and remove it from the room, then remove the padding. Padding is often stapled to the floor, and usually will come up in pieces as you roll it up.

Using end-cutting nippers or pliers, remove all staples from the floor. Pry tackless strips loose with a pry bar and remove them.

Remove underlayment and floor covering as though they were a single layer. This is an effective removal strategy with any floor covering that is bonded to the underlayment.

Use a reciprocating saw to extend cuts close to the edges of walls. Hold the blade at a slight angle to the floor, and try not to damage walls or cabinets. Do not cut deeper than the underlayment. Use a wood chisel to complete cuts near cabinets.

Separate the underlayment from the subfloor using a flat pry bar and hammer. Remove and discard the sections of underlayment and floor covering immediately, watching for exposed nails.

Cementboard is the preferred underlayment material for a ceramic tile floor. When installed correctly it forms a highly stable subbase that resists cracking of the tiles or grout lines.

Fasten panels to the subfloor with 1 1/4” self-piloting cementboard screws. Fasten screws every 6 to 8” in the field, keeping fasteners 2” away from each corner but no less than 3/8” from the panel edges. Properly fastened, the head of each screw will sit flush with or just slightly below the surface of the panel.

Add new panels, staggering the seams at adjoining panels to prevent any four corners from converging at one point. Install the cementboard perpendicular to floor joists, but avoid aligning them with existing plywood joints on the sub-floor.

Maintain 1/8”-wide gaps between panels. Fill these gaps with a modified thinset mortar, overlapping at least 2 to 3” on each side of the juncture. Center and embed 2”-wide alkaline-resistant fiberglass tape over the joint and tightly skim thinset over the length of the abutment using a joint knife. Scrape off excess mortar to ensure an even transition between panel edges.

Continue fastening sheets of plywood to the subfloor, driving the screw heads slightly below the underlayment surface. Leave 1/4” expansion gaps at the walls and between sheets. Offset seams in subsequent rows.

Using a circular saw or jigsaw, notch plywood to meet existing flooring in doorways, then fasten the notched sheets to the subfloor.

Mix floor-patching compound and latex or acrylic additive according to the manufacturer’s directions. Spread it over seams and screw heads with a joint knife.

Let the patching compound dry, then sand the patched areas using a power sander.

Waterproof membrane such as this ensures that the framing and the wall and floor subsurfaces never get wet, protecting against mold, mildew, structural failure, and other related moisture problems.

NOTE: Local codes vary greatly when it comes to what types of membranes are allowed for shower enclosures. Always ask your retailer (or your building inspector) if the membrane you are considering purchasing is approved for the use you have in mind.

Measure and cut the membrane sections for different areas of the installation space. Be sure to account for sheet overlaps. These range from 1 1/2” to 3” depending on the membrane manufacturer. Follow the overlap recommendations for the membrane you’re using. In almost all cases you should start with the floor and work your way up from the bottoms of walls, always overlapping the lower section with the higher section.

Roll or trowel the adhesive over the area for one sheet (follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for adhesive application).

Smooth the sheet in place with the flat side of a trowel or—on larger areas—use a roller. Typically, a sheet is smoothed out from the center outward.

Apply double beads of waterproof sealant (the type recommended by the manufacturer—many supply their own) along the edge of overlaps.

Roll overlapping sections with a seam roller, flattening them as much as possible.

For inside corners, make vertical and horizontal cuts in the membrane at the corner, and then overlap the cut flaps using beads of adhesive or the same process you used for sheet overlaps.

Roll the membrane strips in corner locations to help seal the joints.

NOTE: For outside corners, cut the sheet at the corner and overlap with a strip of membrane. The strip will need to be cut halfway through its width, in the middle of the strip.

Hang membrane on walls vertically, overlapping corners. Overlap sheets as you would on the floor. It’s essential that you secure the membrane to the wall by firmly smoothing it with a trowel or large roller.

A radiant floor-warming system employs electric heating mats that are covered with floor tile to create a floor that’s cozy underfoot.

Floor-warming systems must be installed on a circuit with adequate amperage and a GFCI breaker. Smaller systems may tie into an existing circuit, but larger ones need a dedicated circuit. Follow local building and electrical codes that apply to your project.

An electric wire fault indicator monitors each floor mat for continuity during the installation process. If there is a break in continuity (for example, if a wire is cut), an alarm sounds. If you choose not to use an installation tool to monitor the mat, test for continuity frequently using a multimeter.

Drill access holes in the sole plate for the power leads that are preattached to the mats (they should be over 10 ft. long). The leads should be connected to a supply wire from the thermostat in a junction box located in a wall near the floor and below the thermostat box. The access hole for each mat should be located directly beneath the knockout for that cable in the thermostat box. Drill through the sill plate vertically and horizontally so the holes meet in an L-shape.

Run conduit from the electrical boxes to the sill plate. The line for the supply cable should be 3/4” conduit. If you are installing multiple mats, the supply conduit should feed into a junction box about 6” above the sill plate and then continue into the 3/4” hole you drilled for the supply leads. The sensor wire needs only 1/2” conduit that runs straight from the thermostat box via the thermostat. The mats should be powered by a dedicated 20-amp GFCI circuit of 1 2/2 NM cable run from your main service panel to the electrical box (this is for 120-volt mats—check your instruction manual for specific circuit recommendations).

Clean the floor surface thoroughly to get rid of any debris that could potentially damage the wire mats. A vacuum cleaner generally does a more effective job than a broom.

Test for resistance using a multimeter set to measure ohms. This is a test you should make frequently during the installation, along with checking for continuity. If the resistance is off by more than 10% from the theoretical resistance listing (see manufacturer’s chart in installation instructions), contact technical support for the kit manufacturer. For example, the theoretical resistance for the 1 × 50 ft. mat seen here is 19, so the ohms reading should be between 17 and 21.

Finalize your mat layout plan. Most radiant floor-warming mat manufacturers will provide a layout plan for you at the time of purchase, or they will give you access to an online design tool so you can come up with your own plan. This is an important step to the success of your project, and the assistance is free.

Unroll the radiant mat or mats and allow them to settle. Arrange the mat or mats according to the plan you created. It’s okay to cut the plastic mesh so you can make curves or switchbacks, but do not cut the heating wire under any circumstances, even to shorten it.

Finalize the mat layout and then test the resistance again using a multimeter. Also check for continuity in several different spots. If there is a problem with any of the mats, you should identify it and correct it before proceeding with the mortar installation.

Run the thermostat sensor wire from the electrical box down the 1/2” conduit raceway and out the access hole in the sill plate. Select the best location for the thermostat sensor and mark the location onto the flooring. Also mark the locations of the wires that connect to and lead from the sensor.

Bond the mats to the floor. If the mats in your system have adhesive strips, peel off the adhesive backing and roll out the mats in the correct position, pressing them against the floor to set the adhesive. If your mats have no adhesive, bind them with strips of double-sided carpet tape. The thermostat sensor and the power supply leads should be attached with hot glue (inset photo) and run up into their respective holes in the sill plate if you have not done this already. Test all mats for resistance and continuity.

Cover the floor installation areas with a layer of thinset mortar that is thick enough to fully cover all the wires and mats (usually around 1/4” in thickness). Check the wires for continuity and resistance regularly and stop working immediately if there is a drop in resistance or a failure of continuity. Allow the mortar to dry overnight.

Connect the power supply leads from the mat or mats to the NM cable coming from the thermostat inside the junction box near the sill. Power must be turned off. The power leads should be cut so about 8” of wire feeds into the box. Be sure to use cable clamps to protect the wires.

Connect the sensor wire and the power supply lead (from the junction box) to the thermostat/timer according to the manufacturer’s directions. Attach the device to the electrical box, restore power, and test the system to make sure it works. Once you are convinced that it is operating properly, install floor tiles and repair the wall surfaces.

Floor tile can be laid in many different patterns, but for your first effort, it’s wise to stick to a basic grid. Generally, you’ll combine the floor tile with a profiled base tile or cove molding, installed after the flooring is completely dry and set.

Draw reference lines and establish the tile layout. Check that the lines are square to each other using the 3-4-5 method. Dry-lay two half rows of tiles in place, running from the center in two directions out to the wall. Determine if the layout leaves less than one-third of a tile at either wall, and adjust your reference lines if it does.

Mix a batch of thinset mortar and spread it evenly across a square along both reference lines of the quadrant, using the trowel recommended for your tile (see page 45). Use the notched edge to create furrows, being careful not to press down all the way to the backer board.

Press the first tile down into the mortar at the corner of the quadrant where the reference lines intersect. Twist it slightly and press down. Use a putty knife to pull the tile up to check that the mortar consistency is correct and coating all areas on the bottom of the tile. Press the tile back into position. Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the center area of the tile to set it properly.

Continue laying tiles along one row, using spacers to maintain spacing between tiles. Use the appropriate spacers for the size tile you are laying, and stand them upright; do not lay spacers flat at tile intersections because they will be impossible to remove from the mortar and can compromise the integrity of the grout lines.

To make sure tiles are level with one another, place a straight 2 × 4 across several tiles in a row and tap the top of the board with a rubber mallet.

As you work, clean up any mortar on the top of the tiles as soon as you detect it. Use a damp sponge to wipe up the mortar completely, to ensure it doesn’t dry on the surface of the tile.

Lay the rest of the tile in the remaining area of the quadrant, repeating steps 2 through 7. Be careful to plan tile placement so that you don’t tile yourself into a corner. Avoid stepping or kneeling on the laid tiles.

In corners and against walls leave a gap of at least 1/4” between the tiles and the walls or cabinets. Make sure the gap is still narrow enough that your base shoe molding or trim will cover it.

To mark tile for cutting so it will fit between the end or edge of a row and the wall, lay the tile to be cut directly on top of the full tile it will sit next to. Stand one or two tiles up flat against the wall as spacers (this will account for an expansion and the grout space between tiles) and lay another tile on top of the tile to be marked, with the edge butted against the tiles on the wall. Mark the second tile for cutting. Check the dry fit and then apply mortar for two partial tiles at a time and set them in place, leaving an expansion gap between the tile edge and the wall or obstruction.

Measure, cut, and install tiles that require notches or curves to fit around obstacles, such as exposed pipes or toilet drains. See pages 26 to 29 for instructions on using nippers or a saw to make the cuts.

Continue laying tiles until the floor is complete. Allow 24 hours for the mortar to dry and then remove the spacers. To prepare for grouting, use painters’ tape to protect any trim that abuts the tiled surface.

Mix the grout as you did the mortar, using the drill and paddle bit. Follow the instructions for the grout you’re using.

NOTE: When mixing grout for porous tile, such as unsealed quarry or natural stone, include an additive with a release agent to prevent the grout from bonding to the tile surfaces.

Start in a corner and pour a small amount of grout onto the tiles. Use the float to spread the grout out from the corner, working in smooth arcs and pressing the grout into the spaces between tiles. Hold the float at about a 60° angle and work in a figure-eight motion. Work on four-tile sections.

As you finish one small quadrant of tile, use the float and a small trowel to clean the excess grout off the surface of the tiles. Continue applying the grout at a 45°angle to the joints until you’ve finished about 25 sq. ft. of the floor.

Wipe a damp grout sponge diagonally over about 2 sq. ft. of the floor to remove grout residue. Rinse the sponge in cool water between passes. Be careful not to press so hard you pull grout out of the joints, but use as many passes as necessary to clean the surface of the tiles. Change the rinse water frequently.

Allow the grout to dry for the recommended period (4 hours is a common drying time). Use a soft cloth such as folded cheesecloth to buff the tile surface and remove any remaining grout film. If any grout film remains, use a grout remover solution.

Ensure the integrity of the grout by misting it with water two to three times per day, for the first two or three days. This will help the grout cure evenly and completely and make it less likely to crack.

Apply grout sealer to all the grout lines. You can use an applicator bottle such as the one shown here, or you can use a formula meant to be applied with a small sponge or foam brush. Be careful to apply the sealer on the grout lines only.

Install threshold transitions in doorways and between transitions to different flooring materials. If the threshold is too long for the doorway, cut it to fit with a jigsaw or circular saw equipped with a tungsten-carbide blade (if you are using a threshold made of tile). Depending on the type of threshold strip, either screw it down or set it in a bed of thinset mortar and allow 24 hours for the mortar to dry.

Leaving a 1/8” expansion gap between tiles at corners, mark any contour cuts necessary to allow the coved edges to fit together. Use a jigsaw with a tungsten-carbide blade to make curved cuts.

Begin installing base-trim tiles at an inside corner. Use a notched trowel to apply wall adhesive to the back of the tile. Place 1/8” spacers on the floor under each tile to create an expansion joint.

Press the tile onto the wall. Continue setting tiles, using spacers to maintain 1/8” gaps between the tiles and 1/8” expansion joints between the tiles and floor.

Use a double-bullnose tile on one side of outside corners to cover the edge of the adjoining tile.

After the adhesive dries, grout the vertical joints between tiles and apply grout along the tops of the tiles to make a continuous grout line. Once the grout hardens, fill the expansion joint between the tiles and floor with caulk.

A properly laid medallion in the middle of a stone floor not only transforms the look of the floor, it can elevate the design of the entire room. If you work carefully, installing the medallion is not much more challenging than laying a basic tile floor.

Prepare the floor (see pages 64 to 75). Remove old, unstable, or damaged flooring. Repair or replace the subflooring and level as necessary to create a solid, stable surface for the new tile. Install backer board over the subfloor. Remove any thresholds and cut door and trim as necessary to fit the final height of the flooring. Sweep the floor thoroughly before you start your project.

Establish the layout grid. In this case, the field tiles are laid in a diamond pattern relative to the entry door wall. Measure, mark, and snap chalklines for the center lines. Snap a chalkline diagonally from opposite corners, using a speed square to ensure a 90° angle to the center point. Continue measuring and snapping chalklines for smaller diamond shapes (including 1/8” for each grout line) to break the work area into smaller spaces.

Dry-lay the border and field tiles. Because the diamond pattern requires that the first course be fashioned with half-tile cut on the diagonal, you can either leave spaces for these cut tiles or, if you’re laying a plain square border as shown here, cut them all at once. Use spacers to check that the tiles are positioned correctly. Adjust as necessary to ensure that no unusually small pieces are used in conspicuous locations. Tile up to and beyond the rough area where you wish to locate the medallion.

Lay the medallion on a large sheet of cardboard or paper. Trace a thick outline around the outside of the medallion, to represent the width of the grout line. Cut out the template, cutting outside the marked line.

Set the medallion template on top of the tiles where you want to place the medallion. Avoid positioning it so you will have to make a lot of delicate or unnecessary cuts. Once you’re sure of the position, tape the template in place. Trace around the template with a carpenters pencil, marking the tiles underneath for cutting.

Before disassembling your dry lay, number all tiles that will need to be cut so you can lay them in the correct order.

Cut the field tiles to fit around the medallion according to your layout and cutting lines. For thick floor tiles, such as the Travertine tiles seen here, a wet saw works much better than a snap cutter for making straight cuts.

TIP: If you’re cutting dark stone tile, cover the cut area with masking tape and mark the cut on the tape so that it is easier to see and follow the cut line.

Use an angle grinder with a diamond blade to clean up any rough edges or to trim a tile if it is cut slightly too large. Make sure the tile is secured to your worksurface.

Apply a setting bed of thinset mortar according to the recommendations for your tile (here, a 1/4 × 1/4” square-notch trowel is used). Begin laying the tiles along one outside edge, working in toward the center. Here, a border of tiles matching the medallion border is laid first, followed by a course of triangular half-tiles. Follow the chalklines so that the medallion will fit exactly in the space you’ve allotted. Set the center tiles in place around the medallion opening, replacing the cut tiles in the correct order.

Lay a bed of thinset mortar in the medallion opening, and then carefully place the medallion into the opening. If you are setting border tiles, install them first. Twist the medallion slightly so that it is centered in the space. Fill in any unlaid tiles around the medallion opening.

Use a straight 2 × 4 to press the medallion down into the mortar bed, while keeping it level with the surrounding tiles. Level it in all directions. If any section is lower than the rest, cut it out of the backing, lift it, and butter the back of the section.

Mortar may squeeze up between smaller pieces of the medallion, although more often the mosaic backing prevents this. You are likely to get some squeezeout around the edges of the mosaic, however. If so, clean out the excess mortar while the mortar is still wet to make room for your grout.

If the field tiles and/or medallion are made of unsealed stone (usually the case with tumbled tile), apply a coat of tile sealer prior to grouting. This will make cleaning the grout off the tiles easier.

Grout the medallion. This is the most complicated part of grouting the floor, so work only on the medallion, making sure all the thin grout lines are completely filled.

Let the grout in the medallion set up slightly, then clean off the face of the medallion with a grout sponge, rinsing after every swipe. Be careful not to pull grout from the grout lines. Grout the rest of the floor in small quadrants, cleaning the face of the tile after grouting. Polish the surface of the all tiles once you’re finished, using a soft cloth.

DESIGN TIP: If you enjoyed installing your medallion floor, next time consider getting even a little more creative. Tile, especially mosaic tiles and borders, lend themselves well to experimentation. Have fun, but always plan to minimize cutting—your results will look better and it will mean less work and less waste for you.

Glass tile, such as the kind used in the floor here, is some of the most striking mosaic tile and is available in both solid colors and an amazing selection of color blends.

Stabilize a sheet of tile by randomly inserting three or four plastic spacers into the open joints.

Pick up diagonally opposite corners of the square and move it to the intersection of the horizontal and vertical references lines. Align the sides with the reference lines and gently press one corner into place on the adhesive. Slowly lower the opposite corner, making sure the sides remain square with the reference lines. Massage the sheet into the adhesive, being careful not to press too hard or twist the sheet out of position. Continue setting tile, filling in one square area after another.

When two or three sheets are in place, lay a scrap of 2 × 4 wrapped in carpet across them and tap it with a rubber mallet to set the fabric mesh into the adhesive and force out any trapped air.

When you’ve tiled up close to the wall or another boundary, lay a full mosaic sheet into position and mark it for trimming. If you’ve planned well and are installing small-tile mosaics, you can often avoid cutting tiles.

If you do need to cut tiles in the mosaic sheet, and not just the backing, score the tiles with a tile cutter. Be sure the tiles are still attached to the backing. Add spacers between the individual tiles to prevent them from shifting as you score.

After you’ve scored the tiles, cut them each individually with a pair of tile nippers.

Set tile in the remaining quadrants. Let the adhesive cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Remove spacers with needlenose pliers. Mix a batch of grout and fill the joints. Allow the grout to dry according to manufacturer’s instructions.

Mosaic tile has a much higher ratio of grout to tile than larger tiles do, so it is especially important to seal the grout with a quality sealer after it has cured.

The look and feel of traditional ceramic tile is replicated with these snap-together tiles made up of a porcelain ceramic surface over a substrate that has interlocking tabs (inset). Flexible grout is the key to this system’s workability.

Check that walls are square using a carpenter’s square or the 3-4-5 measurement method. If walls are out of square, decide how you will adjust rows to compensate. Also measure floor width and decide if you want to place the first row in the center of the floor or begin at a wall.

Lay the first two tiles after removing the lock tabs on the wall-facing side or sides using a sharp utility knife. Start placing tiles in the corner, and leave a 1/4” expansion gap between the tiles and the walls. Although the locking tabs project out 1/4” from the tiles and thus would function as 1/4” spacers, the fact that they are integral parts of the tiles makes this gap ineffective as an expansion gap. Use traditional removable spacers. Attach each new tile by aligning the tiles, connecting at the corner, and then pressing together until the tiles lock.

Use a rubber tapping block if you have difficulty engaging the locking tabs by simply pressing them together. Align the tiles, then hold the block against the side of the tile—not the plastic tray or grid. Gently tap the block until the tiles lock together.

Continue to lay tiles, paying careful attention to layout patterns and directional veining in the tile surfaces. If you make a mistake and need to remove and adjust a tile, you can disconnect the joints with a rubber-coated pull bar or any other prying tool with a protective surface coating. Place the tool edge between the two tiles and gently pry them apart.

Mark tiles to fit around obstacles or for the final row by laying one tile on top and aligning with the previous row. Then lay a tile on top of that one, and align within 1/4” of the wall or obstacle. Mark a cutline on the middle tile using the space between the tabs of the top tile as guidance.

Cut tiles using a wet saw with a blade meant for cutting ceramic and porcelain tiles. Cut on the waste side of the marked line, and change water in the basin frequently to ensure clean cuts. Porcelain takes a long time to cut. Be patient and do not force the tile into the saw blade.

Set final tiles into position and then pull them back into the preceding rows using a rubberized pull bar. When the floor is completed, open the pail of flexible grout and mix thoroughly with a trowel according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Apply grout in the tile gaps with a firm rubber grout float. Spread grout diagonally to the tile joints, working the grout firmly into the joints. Remove excess grout from the tiles with the edge of the float and touch up voids or low areas in the grout joints.

Clean off excess grout. Fill a 5 gal. bucket with clean water and use a sponge to clean the surfaces of the tiles. Wipe off grout residue, and use the sponge to smooth grout lines.

IMPORTANT: Rinse the sponge thoroughly with clean water after each pass.

A self-leveling system is easy to use and almost completely foolproof during installation. The spacers actually fit underneath the tiles so you can draw them up to level by inserting the wedges into the spacer tops (right).

Prepare the floor (pages 63 through 75) and lay a bed of thinset mortar. Lay the first tile in place and insert the spacers along each edge that will butt another tile. Slide the tabs under the bottom of the tile, using two spacers on each side, positioned 2 to 3” in from each end.

Position the next tile over the tabs of the spacers. Press down to bed the tile. Slide the wedge through the spacer window until it is tight. All subsequent wedges should be pushed in so the same number of teeth pass through the spacer window.

Pull the tile in toward the first tile to ensure it is snug against the spacer. Check for lippage and continue laying tile, wedging each adjoining tile as you lay it. Check with a level after laying a few tiles. Adjust as necessary by inserting the individual wedges further in or withdrawing them slightly.

Allow the tiled floor to dry completely—24 hours or more. Once the tile can be walked on, kick the wedge/spacer assemblies on the side to break the spacers off. Collect the wedges for reuse, and discard the top tabs of the spacers. Grout the floor.

Add small amounts of clean, potable water to the dry mixture and blend to an evenly moist consistency using a masonry hoe. Be sure to wear gloves and a dust mask or respirator.

A squeezed clump of deck mud should hold its shape without sagging or falling apart.

Staple 15# building paper to the subfloor of the shower base. Disassemble the three-piece shower drain and glue the bottom piece to the drain pipe with PVC cement. Partially screw the drain bolts into the drain piece, and stuff a rag into the drain pipe to prevent mortar from falling into the drain.

Mark the height of the bottom drain piece on the wall farthest from the center of the drain. Measure from the center of the drain straight across to that wall, then raise the height mark 1/4” for every 12” of shower floor to slope the pre-pan toward the drain. Trace a reference line at the height mark around the perimeter of the entire alcove using a level.

Staple galvanized metal lath over the building paper; cut a hole in the lath 1/2” from the drain. Mix floor mortar (or “deck mud”) to a fairly dry consistency using a latex additive for strength; mortar should hold its shape when squeezed (inset). Trowel the mortar onto the subfloor, building the pre-pan from the flange of the drain piece to the height line on the perimeter of the walls.

Continue using the trowel to form the pre-pan, checking the slope using a level and filling any low spots with mortar. Finish the surface of the pre-pan with a wood float until it is even and smooth. Allow the mortar to cure overnight.

Measure the dimensions of the shower floor, and mark it out on a sheet of CPE waterproof membrane using a felt-tipped marker. From the floor outline, measure out and mark an additional 8” for each wall and 16” for the curb end. Cut the membrane to size using a utility knife and straightedge. Be careful to cut on a clean, smooth surface to prevent puncturing the membrane. Lay the membrane onto the shower pan.

Measure to find the exact location of the drain and mark it on the membrane, outlining the outer diameter of the drain flange. Cut a circular piece of CPE membrane roughly 2” larger than the drain flange, then use CPE membrane solvent glue to weld it into place and reinforce the seal at the drain.

Apply CPE sealant around the drain. Fold the membrane along the floor outline. Set the membrane over the pre-pan so the reinforced drain seal is centered over the drain bolts. Working from the drain to the walls, carefully tuck the membrane tightly into each corner, folding the extra material into triangular flaps.

Apply CPE solvent glue to one side, press the flap flat, then staple it in place. Staple only the top edge of the membrane to the blocking; do not staple below the top of the curb or on the curb itself.

At the shower curb, cut the membrane along the studs so it can be folded over the curb. Solvent-glue a dam corner at each inside corner of the curb. Do not fasten the dam corners with staples.

At the reinforced drain seal on the membrane, locate and mark the drain bolts. Press the membrane down around the bolts, then use a utility knife to carefully cut a slit just large enough for the bolts to poke through. Push the membrane down over the bolts.

Use a utility knife to carefully cut away only enough of the membrane to expose the drain and allow the middle drain piece to fit in place. Remove the drain bolts, then position the middle drain piece over the bolt holes. Reinstall the bolts, tightening them evenly and firmly to create a watertight seal.

Test the shower pan for leaks overnight. Place a balloon tester in the drain below the weep holes, and fill the pan with water, to 1” below the top of the curb. Mark the water level and let the water sit overnight. If the water level remains the same, the pan holds water. If the level is lower, locate and fix leaks in the pan using patches of membrane and CPE solvent.

Install cementboard on the alcove walls, using 1/4” wood shims to lift the bottom edge off the CPE membrane. To prevent puncturing the membrane, do not use fasteners in the lower 8” of the cementboard. Cut a piece of metal lath to fit around the three sides of the curb. Bend the lath so it tightly conforms to the curb. Pressing the lath against the top of the curb, staple it to the outside face of the curb. Mix enough mortar for the two sides of the curb.

Overhang the front edge of the curb with a straight 1× board, so it is flush with the outer wall material. Apply mortar to the mesh with a trowel, building to the edge of the board. Clear away excess mortar, then use a torpedo level to check for plumb, making adjustments as needed. Repeat for the inside face of the curb. Allow the mortar to cure overnight.

NOTE: The top of the curb will be finished after tile is installed (step 19).

Attach the drain strainer piece to the drain, adjusting it to a minimum of 1 1/2” above the shower pan. On one wall, mark 1 1/2” up from the shower pan, then use a level to draw a reference line around the perimeter of the shower base. Because the pre-pan establishes the 1/4” per foot slope, this measurement will maintain that slope.

Spread tile spacers over the weep holes of the drain to prevent mortar from plugging the holes. Mix the floor mortar, then build up the shower floor to roughly half the thickness of the base. Cut metal lath to cover the mortar bed, keeping it 1/2” from the drain (see photo in step 18).

Continue to add mortar, building the floor to the reference line on the walls. Use a level to check the slope, and pack mortar into low spots with a trowel. Leave space at the drain for the thickness of the tile. Float the surface using a wood float until it is smooth and slopes evenly to the drain. When finished, allow the mortar to cure overnight before installing the tiles.

After the floor has cured, draw reference lines and establish the tile layout, then mix a batch of thinset mortar and install the floor tile. At the curb, cut the tiles for the inside to protrude 1/2” above the unfinished top of the curb, and the tiles for the outside to protrude 5/8” above the top, establishing a 1/8” slope so water drains back into the shower. Use a level to check the tops of the tiles for level as you work.

Mix enough floor mortar to cover the unfinished top of the curb, then pack it in place between the tiles using a trowel. Screed off the excess mortar flush with the tops of the side tiles. Allow the mortar to cure, then install bullnose cap tile. Install the wall tile, then grout, clean, and seal all the tile. After the grout has cured fully, run a bead of silicone caulk around all inside corners to create control joints.

A curbless shower can be an impressive, space-efficient addition to any bathroom, especially when tiled in a unique design as shown here. It’s essential that the substructure underneath the tile is completely stable and waterproof.

Begin laying floor tile in the corner of the shower. Lay a bed of thinset tile adhesive, using a notched trowel. The thinset container should specify the notch size (3/8” square notch is seen here).

Place the corner tile into the bed of thinset and press it to set it. Don’t press down too hard or you will displace too much of the material. Continue laying tile, fanning out from the corner toward the drain opening. Leave space around the drain opening as it is likely you’ll need to cut tiles to fit.

Install tile so a small square of untiled area is left around the drain opening (which, in the system seen here, is square, making for an easier cutting job).

Mark the tiles that surround the drain opening for cutting. Leave a small gap between the tiles next to the drain grate mounting plate. Cut the tiles along the trim lines using a tile saw. If you are not comfortable using a tile saw, score the tiles and cut them with tile nippers.

Apply thinset onto the shower pan, taking care not to get any on the drain grate mounting plate. You may need to use a small trowel or a putty knife to get into small gaps.

Set the cut tiles around the drain opening, doing your best to maintain even gaps that match the gaps in the rest of the floor. Once you’ve finished tiling around the drain, complete setting floor tile in the rest of the project area.

Let the floor tile set overnight, and then apply grout. Using a grout sponge, wipe the grout over the gaps so all gaps are filled evenly. After the grout dries, buff the floor with a towel to wipe up excess residue.

Snap the grate cover into the cover mounting plate (if you’ve stuffed a rag into the drain opening to keep debris out, be sure to remove it first). The grate cover seen here locks in with a small key that should be saved in case you need to remove the grate cover.

Begin setting the wall tile. Generally, it’s easiest if you start at the bottom and work upward. Instead of thinset adhesive, an adhesive mat is being used here. This relatively new product is designed for walls and is rated for waterproof applications. It is a good idea to use a spacer (1/4” thick or so) to get an even border at the bottoms of the first tiles.

In the design used here, a border of the same mosaic tile used in the floor is installed all around the shower area to make the first course. Dark brown accent tiles are installed in a single vertical column running upward, centered on the line formed by the shower faucet and showerhead. This vertical column is installed after the bottom border.

Next, another vertical column of accent tiles is installed on each side of the large, dark tiles. These columns are also laid using the floor tile, which connects the walls and floor visually in an effective way.

Finally, larger field tiles that match the floor tile used outside the shower area are installed up to the corner and outward from the shower area. Starting at the bottom, set a thin spacer on top of the border tiles to ensure even gaps.

Grout the gaps in the wall tiles. It’s usually a good idea to protect any fittings with painter’s tape prior to grouting. If you wish, a clear surround may be installed to visually define the shower area, as in the photo to the right, but because the shower pan is pitched toward the drain it really is not necessary.

Resilient tiles have a pattern layer that is bonded to a vinyl base and coated with a transparent wear layer. Some come with adhesive pre-applied and covered by a paper backing, others have dry backs and are designed to be set into flooring adhesive.

Check for noticeable directional features, such as the grain of the vinyl particles. You can set the tiles in a running pattern so the directional feature runs in the same direction (top), or in a checkerboard pattern using the quarter-turn method (bottom).

Measure along line X and mark 3 ft. from the center point. Measure from the center point along line Y and mark at 4 ft. Measure between the marks. If the lines are perpendicular, the distance will be 5 ft. If not, adjust the lines until they’re exactly perpendicular.

If you shift the tile layout, create a new line that is parallel to reference line X and runs through a tile joint near line X. The new line, X1, is the line you’ll use when installing the tile. Use a different colored chalk to distinguish between lines.

Dry-fit tiles along the new line, X1. If necessary, adjust the layout line as in steps 1 and 2.

If you adjusted the layout along X1, measure and make a new layout line, Y1, that’s parallel to reference line Y and runs through a tile joint. Y1 will form the second layout line you’ll use during installation.

Apply adhesive around the intersection of the layout lines using a trowel with 1/16” V-shaped notches. Hold the trowel at a 60° angle and spread adhesive evenly over the surface.

Spread adhesive over three quadrants. Allow it to set according to manufacturer’s instructions, then begin laying tile at the center intersection. When the first three quadrants are tiled, spread adhesive and tile the last quadrant.

To cut tiles to fit along the walls, place the tile to be cut (A) face up on top of the last full tile you installed. Position a 1/8”-thick spacer against the wall, then set a marker tile (B) on top of the tile to be cut. Trace along the edge of the marker tile to draw a cutting line.

Cut the tile to fit using a snap cutter to make straight cuts. You may use a straightedge guide and utility knife instead.

Install cut tiles. If you’re precutting all tiles before installing them, measure the distance and install tiles at various points in case the measurement changes. Install thresholds at room borders where the new floor joins another floor covering.

In this chapter:

• Gallery of Wall Tile Projects

Protect against potential shower leaks by cladding walls in large-format tiles. Fewer grout lines mean fewer avenues for water to infiltrate behind tiles.

Bring life to a small powder room with unique painted tile, such as the cement tile used on the wall of this room.

Make a bold statement by using the same tile on the wall as you used on the floor. Although this won’t work in every situation, a modern space and faux-wood porcelain tile is ideal for the treatment.

Create a very special focal point by using handpainted ceramic tiles such as these on a high-profile wall, where they will get the attention they deserve (and deliver visual fireworks that justify the cost).

Frame a field of distinctive tiles to make a wall really stand out. The relief tiles in this shower create an almost hypnotic pattern that garners even more attention against monochrome, neutral, square wall tiles. This effect can work in any room of the house.

Match the surface pattern of wall tile to that of floor tile to seamlessly blend the look of the room. This space is unified by the faux-wood tones of the porcelain floor and wall tiles, but by using different sizes and formats, visual interest is still maintained.

Coordinate tile choice with overall design. A subtle bathroom style calls for an understated classic tile such as the marble in this bathroom. It’s a clean, demure, and very handsome look in which all the design elements work together.

Blend a variety of wall tile shapes, patterns, and sizes by keeping all the tiles in the same color family. The rust red used in this bathroom ties everything together and fits perfectly with the antique fixtures throughout the room.

Glam it up by using unusual tiles that bring fun and flair to the room. If you’re willing to take a little risk, you can make the most of exciting tile options such as these metal tiles that look like mirrored glass. Asymmetrical edge bevels give the tiles a funky appeal, and the overall look makes them a real conversation piece.

Take advantage of the canvas that is a fireplace surround, as a chance to show off hallmark tile in a stunning design. The glass tile here is easy to clean and the pattern is endlessly fascinating—ensuring that the area is still a focal point even when no fire is roaring in the fireplace.

Choose mosaics that reflect your style. Manufacturers offer a growing selection of mosaics, including the irregularly sized pieces in this wall—giving the kitchen a rustic feel in an eye-catching backsplash.

Run a straightedge up and down and side-to-side along wall surfaces and outline the valleys. Any difference of 1/4” or more must be filled with joint compound using a 12” taping knife. You may need to apply a number of thin layers for best results. Some plaster surfaces are softer than others. High lime content plaster (inset) is too soft to serve as a backing surface for tile.

Patching large holes: Draw cutting lines around the hole, then cut away the damaged area using a wallboard saw. Place plywood strips behind the opening and drive wallboard screws to hold them in place. Drive screws through the wallboard patch and into the backers. Cover the joints with wallboard tape and finish with compound.

If the wall is out of plumb, use a long level to mark a plumb line the entire height of the wall. Remove the wall covering from the out-of-plumb wall.

Cut and install shims on all the studs to create a new, plumb surface for attaching backing materials. Draw arrows at the shim highpoints to mark for wallboard screw placement.

Be aware of how your wall is built before you start tearing off surfaces. If it is an exterior wall take extra care not to disturb insulation. You should plan on replacing the vapor barrier before installing new wallcoverings.

Insert the end of a pry bar into the cut near one corner of the opening. Pull the pry bar until the wallboard breaks, then tear away the broken pieces. Take care to avoid damaging the wallboard outside the project area.

Break the plaster along the edge by holding a scrap piece of 2 × 4 on edge just inside the scored line, and rapping it with a hammer. Use a pry bar to remove the remaining plaster.

Cut through the lath along the edges of the plaster using a reciprocating saw or jigsaw. Remove the lath from the studs using a pry bar.

Begin cutting out small sections of the wall by inserting a reciprocating saw with a bimetal blade into the hole and cutting along grout lines. Be careful when sawing near pipes and wiring.

Cut the entire wall surface into small sections, removing each section as it is cut. Be careful not to cut through studs.

Score wallboard face paper with a utility knife using a drywall T-square as a guide. Bend the panel away from the scored line until the core breaks, then cut through the back paper (inset) with a utility knife, and separate the pieces.

Finish the seams by applying an even bed layer of wallboard compound over the seam, about 1/8” thick using a 6” taping knife.

Center the wallboard tape over the seam and lightly embed it into the compound, making sure it’s smooth and straight.

Smooth the tape with the taping knife. Apply enough pressure to force compound from underneath the tape, leaving the tape flat and with a thin layer underneath. Cover all exposed screw heads with the first of three coats of compound (inset). Let compound dry overnight.

Second-coat the seams with a thin, even layer of compound using a 12” knife. Feather the sides of the compound first, holding the blade almost flat and applying pressure to the outside of the blade so the blade just skims over the center of the seam.

After feathering both sides, make a pass down the center of the seam, leaving the seam smooth and even, the edges feathered out even with the wallboard surface. Completely cover the joint tape. Let the second coat dry, then apply a third coat using the 12” knife. After the third coat dries completely, sand the compound lightly with a wallboard sander or a 150-grit sanding sponge.

Attach 1/2”-thick cementboard to the framing members horizontally with the rough side facing out. Use 1 1/4” cementboard screws. Fasten screws every 6” on-center for ceiling applications and every 8” on-center for wall applications. Keep fasteners 2” away from each corner and no less than 3/8” from the panel edges.

A moisture barrier consisting of 4-mil clear polyethylene sheeting can be stapled to framing members in damp areas before installing the cementboard.

Asphalt roofing felt (15# building paper) can also be used as a moisture barrier behind cementboard panels in damp areas.

Fill the joints using a modified thinset mortar, and then embed fiberglass mesh tape into the mortar. Skim off excess mortar from the joint using a joint knife.

Complete the cementboard installation by applying thinset mortar over the tape and feathering out the edges. If you will be applying a waterproofing membrane over the cementboard surfaces, allow 24 hrs. for the thinset in the seams to dry.

Draw your tile layout to scale on the wall drawing to establish your reference lines.

Check the walls and corners to see if they’re plumb. Make any necessary adjustments before beginning your tile project.

Measure the walls, paying particular attention to the placement of windows, doors, and permanent fixtures. Use these measurements to create a scale drawing of each wall to be tiled.

If you end up with too narrow a gap along the wall in step 1, move over half the width of a tile by centering the middle tile over the vertical centerline.

Use a story stick to determine whether your planned layout works vertically. If necessary, adjust the size of the first row of tile.

Dry-fit the first row of tile, then hold a story stick along the horizontal guideline with one grout line matched to the vertical reference line. Mark the grout lines, which will correspond with the grout lines of the first row and can be used as reference points.

The range of available wall tile is even more dynamic than floor tile. If you’re willing to do a bit of in-depth planning and extra installation work, you can have a stunning wall such as this, incorporating different sizes and shapes of tile—including the metal versions used for this backsplash.

Mix a small batch of thinset mortar containing a latex additive. (Some mortar has additive mixed in by the manufacturer and some must have additive mixed in separately.) Cover the back of the first tile with adhesive, using a 1/4” notched trowel.

Beginning near the center of the wall, apply the tile to the wall with a slight twisting motion, aligning it exactly with the horizontal and vertical reference lines. When placing cut tiles, position the cut edges where they will be least visible.

Continue installing tiles, working from the center to the sides in a pyramid pattern. Keep the tiles aligned with the reference lines. If the tiles are not self-spacing, use plastic spacers inserted between tiles to maintain even grout lines. The base row should be the last row of full tiles installed. Cut tile as necessary.

As small sections of tile are completed, set the tile by laying a scrap of 2 × 4 wrapped with carpet onto the tile and rapping it lightly with a mallet. This embeds the tile solidly in the adhesive and creates a flat, even surface.

To mark bottom and edge row tiles for straight cuts, begin by taping 1/8” spacers against the surfaces below and to the side of the tile. Position a tile directly over the last full tile installed, then place a third tile so the edge butts against the spacers. Trace the edge of the top tile onto the middle tile to mark it for cutting.

Install any trim tiles, such as the bullnose edge tiles shown above, at border areas. Wipe away excess mortar along the top edges of the edge tiles. Use bullnose and corner bullnose (with two adjacent bullnose edges) tiles at outside corners to cover the rough edges of the adjoining tiles.

Let mortar dry completely (12 to 24 hrs.), then mix a batch of grout containing latex additive. Apply the grout with a rubber grout float, using a sweeping motion to force it deep into the joints. Do not grout joints adjoining bathtubs, floors, or room corners. These will serve as expansion joints and will be caulked later.

Wipe a damp grout sponge diagonally over the tile, rinsing the sponge in cool water between wipes. Wipe each area only once; repeated wiping can pull grout from the joints. Allow the grout to dry for about 4 hrs., then use a soft cloth to buff the tile surface and remove any remaining grout film.

When the grout has cured completely, use a small foam brush to apply grout sealer to the joints, following the manufacturer’s directions. Avoid brushing sealer on the tile surfaces, and wipe up excess sealer immediately.

Seal expansion joints at the floor and corners with silicone caulk. After the caulk dries, buff the tile with a soft, dry cloth.

A perfectly functional alcove bathtub surround (above) can be utterly transformed with tile (below).

Cut out old surround panels or tiles. A keyhole or drywall saw can be used to safely cut through the drywall at the junction where it meets the surround. Use the edge of the tile or panel as a guide, taking care to feel for and avoid plumbing or other unseen obstacles hidden within the wall cavity.

Remove any drywall in the new tile installation area. This will need to be replaced with cementboard. Remove all nails and debris from the framing members. If necessary, install additional wood blocking to accommodate the cementboard installation.

Install a moisture barrier. Fasten 4-mil clear polyethylene sheeting to the studs using staples. This step may be omitted if a waterproofing membrane will be applied over the surface of the cementboard later.

Install 1/2”-thick cementboard horizontally on the back wall first, and then on the side walls. Fasten the panels to the studs using 1 1/4” cementboard screws. To make straight cuts, score the panel using a carbide scoring tool, then snap the panel along the scored line. To make hole cuts for plumbing protrusions, use a drill fitted with a carbide hole saw bit.

Fill the gaps between cementboard panels with thinset mortar, overlapping at least 2 to 3” on each side of the joint. Center and embed 2”-wide alkaline-resistant fiberglass tape over the joint and lightly skim thinset over the joint. If your local codes require it, apply a roll-on waterproofing membrane to the cementboard (see page 63).

Dry-lay tile for your surround on a flat surface, inserting 1/8” spacers between the tiles to set the gap. Lay out enough for roughly half the surround height and then measure the length of the dry-laid row to find the actual height of the tiles on the wall.

Draw horizontal reference lines on the wall using a 4-ft. level to make sure the lines are level. Extend these reference lines to each side wall. Measure down from the horizontal lines to the tub at several points on all walls to make sure the tub deck and the lines are parallel. If they aren’t, re-measure from the point where the tub deck is highest and transfer level lines all around from that point.

Draw a vertical reference line down the center of the back wall. To temporarily support the weight of the tile that will be installed above, align and fasten 1 × 2 furring strips just below the horizontal reference lines located in the midsection of the tub surround.

Set the first tiles. Mix a small batch of thinset mortar. Apply the thinset using a 1/4” square-notched trowel held at a 45° angle. Spread the adhesive within the guidelines on the wall, aligning the ridges of the setting bed in a horizontal direction. Install tile on the back wall first, keeping tile aligned to the centered guide line.

Install two or three rows of tiles—here, a row of decorative accent tiles is installed as well.

To mark tiles for straight cuts, place a full tile directly on top of the field tile that is installed adjacent to the void. Position another full tile over the void, abutting the overhanging edge of the tile against a 1/8” spacer. Trace the edge of this tile to mark the underlying tile for cutting.

Complete the upper sections. After the top portion of the back wall is tiled, fill in the upper portions of each side wall. Leave out tiles as needed to accommodate tiled-in accessories such as a soap dish or towel rod.

Mark and cut tiles to fit around the valve stems and water pipes as required to install your tub spout, diverter, and shower head (often, shower heads are installed above the tiles). Finish tiling the lower portions of the tile installation, then allow to dry for 24 hrs.

TIP: Tape tiles together to prevent slippage while they dry.

Coat the tile surfaces with a sealer or other grout-release agent if they are not glazed by the manufacturer. This treatment will prevent grout from getting into places where it should not go.

Grout the tiles (see page 143). To apply grout, hold the grout float at an angle and force the mortar into the joints, skimming excess grout from the tile surface with each pass. Wipe tile clean using a damp grout sponge. After grouting, buff tile surfaces with a soft cloth to remove haze. Install fittings and hardware, and caulk around the tub deck.

An ordinary tub apron does little to inspire in a bathroom, but a tiled apron wall is a fine way to add interest.

Cut the 2 × 4s to length for the base plate and top plate (58 1/2” long as shown). Cut the studs (five 11” pieces as shown). Set the base plate on edge and lay out the studs, spacing them 16” on-center. Make sure the first and last studs are perfectly parallel with the end of the base plate, then drive two 2 1/2” screws through the base plate and into each stud.

Draw a placement line on the floor using a permanent marker. Spread a generous bead of construction adhesive on the bottom of the base plate. Align the base plate with the placement line and set it into position. Put concrete blocks or other weights between the studs to anchor the base plate to the flooring and let the adhesive cure according to manufacturer’s instructions.

Drive two or three 2 1/2” screws through the studs and into the room walls at each end of the stub wall. If the stub wall does not happen to line up with any wall studs, at least drive two 3” deck screws toenail style through the stub wall and into the room wall sole plate.

Set the top plate on the stub wall and attach it using two 2 1/2” screws for each stud. Offset the screws slightly to increase the strength of the assembly. The top of the stub wall should be 2 1/2” below the top of the tub.

Cut cementboard to fit the front (14 1/2” as shown). With the factory-finished edge of the cementboard at the top of the wall, attach the cementboard to the studs using cementboard screws.

Cut cementboard to fit the top of the stub wall (31/2”). With the factory-finished edge facing the tub edge, attach the cementboard to the top plate using cementboard screws.

Design the layout and mark reference lines (see page 141) on the wall. Draw horizontal and vertical reference lines for the corner tile (used to transition from vertical to horizontal at the top stub wall edge) and the coved base tile (if your project includes them). Lay out tile along the floor, including spacers.

Start tiling at the bottom of the wall. Lay out the bottom row of tile on the floor, using spacers if necessary. Adjust the layout to make end tiles balanced in size. Mark and cut the tiles as necessary, and then smooth any sharp edges with carbide paper or a wet stone. Mix a small batch of thinset mortar and install the base tiles by buttering the backs with mortar.

Beginning at the center intersection of the vertical field area, apply mortar using a notched trowel to spread it evenly. Cover as much area as required for a few field tiles. Install the field tiles, keeping the grout lines in alignment.

Finish installing the field tiles up to the horizontal line marking the accent tile location.

Apply thinset mortar to the backs of the accent tiles and install them in a straight line. The grout lines will likely not align with the field tile grout lines.

Dry-lay corner tiles to create a rounded transition at the top edge of the wall. Install these before you install the field tiles in the top row of the wall face or on the top of the stub wall (corner tiles are virtually impossible to cut if your measurements are off). Dry-lay the top row of tiles. Mark and cut tile if necessary.

Fill in the top course of field tile on the wall face, between the accent tiles and the corner tiles. If you have planned well you won’t need to trim the field tiles to fit. If you need to cut tiles to create the correct wall height, choose the tiles in the first row of field tiles.

Remove the dry-laid row of tile along the top of the wall. Shield the edge of the tub with painter’s tape, then spread thinset adhesive on the wall and begin to lay tile. Keep the joints of the field tiles on the top aligned with the grout joints of the field tile on the face of the wall.

Mix a batch of grout and use a grout float to force it into the joints between the tiles. Keep the space between the top field tiles and the tub clear of grout to create space for a bead of silicone caulk between the tub and tile.

Remove excess grout and clean the tile using a damp sponge. Rinse the sponge often.

After 24 hours, clean the area where the tile and tub meet with rubbing alcohol, then put tape on the edge of the tub and the face of the tile. Apply clear silicone caulk into the gap, overfilling it slightly.

Smooth the caulk with a moistened plastic straw or a moistened fingertip to create an even finish. Make sure this spot is well-sealed, because it is a prime spot for water to penetrate into the tub wall.

When the grout has cured completely (consult manufacturer’s directions), apply grout sealer to the joints.

This unique room feature is a showcase for beautiful tile work. A niche can be added to just about any wall, including a room divider wall that is built specifically to support the niche.

If there are baseboards in the construction area, remove them using a pry bar and hammer. Tape down sheet plastic in the construction area, as close to the wall as possible.

Cut four 1 × 6s and four 1 × 8s to length (108 inches for our project). On two of the 1 × 8s, drill 3/4-inch holes centered every 10” down the length of each board. On the remaining two 1 × 8s, drill pilot holes centered every 10”.

Place one 1 × 8 (one with pilot holes) on the work surface and position a 1 × 6 on edge beside it. Clamp the boards together and drive a 1 1/4” screw every 6” to join them. Put a second 1 × 6 on the work surface and clamp to assembly as shown. Drive screws every 6” to join the pieces.

Complete the box by adding a 1 × 8 (with 3/4” holes in it) to the opposite side of the assembly and fasten it as described. Build a second, identical box.

Shoot a vertical line on the wall with the laser level. Spread a bead of construction adhesive on the back (1 × 8 with pilot holes) of the first box. With a helper, align the outside edge of the box. Using a long magnetic driver bit or bit extender, drive an 1 1/4” screw through each pilot hole (and into stud). Install the second box on the other side of the niche.

NOTE: When you cannot hit a stud, use toggle bolts.

Mark the reference lines. If necessary, tack a 1 × 2 batten in position to support the second row of tile above the floor. If tiles have to be cut for this row, mark and cut all of them.

Mix a small batch of thinset mortar. Spread the mortar on a small section of wall, then set the tiles into it. If tile is not self-spacing, insert spacers as you work. When all other tile is set, remove the battens and set the bottom row.

Repeat Step 8 to set tile on first one box and then the other. Let the mortar cure, according to manufacturer’s instructions.

If there are spacers between tiles, use needlenose pliers to remove them. Grout the tile in the center of the niche. If necessary, grout the tile on the columns. Let the grout set and then wipe away excess with a damp sponge.

On the inside edges of each column, measure and mark the location for the shelf pins. Use a laser level to check and adjust the marks. Using an awl and hammer, create a dimple at each mark, then use a carbide-tipped 1/4” bit to drill the holes.

Wrap the peg of each shelf pin with Teflon tape. (The tape will seal the hole and keep moisture from getting behind the tile.) Tap a pin into each hole, using a rubber mallet if necessary. Position the glass shelves.

Protect the floor with a drop cloth. So you can patch the tile backer, you’ll need to remove a section of tile that’s a minimum of one tile all around the project installation area. Using a grease pencil, mark the tiles to be removed, according to the plan drawing. Put masking tape or painter’s tape on the edges of the bordering tiles that will remain to keep them from being scratched or otherwise damaged by the grout saw. If you will be reinstalling some of the old tiles, protect them as well.

Wearing eye protection and a dust mask, use a grout saw to cut grooves in all of the grout lines in the removal area. If the grout lines are soft this will only take one or two passes. If the grout is hard, it may take several. Using a grout scraper, remove any remaining material in the joint. Angle the tools toward the open area to protect the tile.

With a flathead screwdriver, pry up the edges of the tile at the center of the removal area. Wiggle the blade toward the center of the tile and pry up to pop it off. (For large areas, see page 133 for another removal method.)

Draw cutting lines on the drywall that are at least 1/2” inside the borders of the area where you removed tiles. Using a straightedge and utility knife, carefully cut out the old drywall.

NOTE: If the tile comes off very easily and the tile backer is not damaged, you may be able to scrape it clean and reuse it.

Cut cementboard strips that are slightly longer than the width of the opening. Insert the strips into the opening and orient them so the ends are pressed against the back surface of the tile backer. Drive wallboard screws through the edges of the old tile backer and into the strips to hold them in place.

Cut a cementboard patch to fit the opening in the tile backer. Place the patch in the opening and drive wallboard screws through the cementboard and into the backer strips. Also drive screws at any stud locations.

Cover the edges with wallboard tape. Mix a small batch of thinset mortar. Apply the mortar using a notched trowel to spread it evenly.

Gently press the accent tiles into the adhesive, smoothing it from the center toward the edges. Let the mortar cure as directed.

Use a damp sponge to soak the protective sheet on the tile. Once wet, slide the sheet off and throw it away.

Mix a batch of grout and fill the joints between tiles on the entire wall, one section at a time. Clean the tile with a damp sponge (inset). Occasionally rinse the sponge in cool water.

Because tile is not flammable it makes a beautiful first line of defense around a fireplace opening.

Paint the areas of wallboard that won’t be tiled. Finish the mantel as desired, then fit it over the support cleat and center it. Drill pilot holes for 6d finish nails through the top of the mantel, about 3/4” from the back edge. Secure the mantel to the cleat with four nails. Set the nails with a nail set, fill the holes with wood putty, then touch up the finish.

Dry-fit the tile around the front of the fireplace. You can lay tile over the black front face, but do not cover the glass or any portion of the grills. If you’re using tile without spacer lugs, use spacers to set the gaps (at least 1/8” for floor tile). Mark the perimeter of the tile area and make any other layout marks that will help with the installation. Pre-cut tiles.

Mask off around the tile, then use a notched trowel to apply latex-reinforced thinset mortar to the wall, spreading it evenly just inside the perimeter lines. Set the tiles into the mortar, aligning them with the layout marks, and press firmly to create a good bond. Install spacers as you work. Install all of the tile, then let the mortar set completely.

Mix a batch of grout and spread it over the tiles with a rubber grout float. Drag the float across the joints diagonally, tilting it at a 45° angle. Make another pass to remove excess grout. Wait 10 to 15 minutes, then wipe away excess grout with a damp sponge, rinsing frequently. Let the grout dry for one hour, then polish the tiles with a dry cloth. Let the grout dry completely.

Cut pieces of cap rail trim to fit around the tile, mitering the ends. If the tile is thicker than the trim recesses, install buildup strips behind the trim using finish nails. Finish the trim to match the mantel. Drill pilot holes and nail the trim in place with 4d finish nails. Set the nails with a nail set. Fill the holes with wood putty and touch up the finish.

Cut cementboard into strips equal in width to the dimension of your tiled surround and attach them to the 2 × 4 nailers bordering the framed firebox opening. It is generally a good idea to predrill for cementboard screws, especially with narrower strips.

Patch around the cementboard, if necessary, with regular wallboard. If you are installing the surround in a damp area, such as a basement, use moisture-resistant wallboard.

Apply joint compound and fiberglass seam tape over seams and cover screwheads with compound (see pages 136 to 137). Sand the compound smooth.

Touch up paint around the tile installation area as needed.

Apply a mortar bed for the tile surround using a notched trowel (a 1/4” square-notch trowel is typical but check the recommendations on the thinset package label). Apply only as much mortar as you can tile in about 10 min. Treating each leg of the square surround separately is a good strategy.

Press the surround tiles into the mortar bed and set them by pressing with a short piece of 2 × 4 wrapped in a carpet scrap. Most tiles have spacing nubs cast into the edges so setting the gaps between tiles or tile sheets is automatic. If your tiles do not have spacing nubs, use plastic tile spacers available at your tile store. Let the thinset mortar dry overnight once you’ve finished setting the tiles. See page 26 if you need to cut tiles.

Apply dark-tinted grout to the tiles using a grout float. Let the grout harden slightly and then buff off the residue with a soft, clean cloth. For more information on grouting, see page 143.

Begin adding surround trim. Here, 1 × 4 cherry casing is being attached to wall stud locations. The side casings should be slightly off the floor (if you have not installed flooring yet account for the floor covering thickness) and butted against the tile surround. If you have planned properly, there will be wall studs behind the casing.

NOTE: We chose 1 × 4 cherry because it is attractive, but also because you can usually buy it dimensioned, planed, and sanded on all sides at the lumber yard. If you have woodworking equipment, use any lumber you like.

Add built-up head casing. The head casing should overhang the side casings by an inch or so. We used a built-up technique to add some depth and profile to the head casing. First, attach a full-width 1 × 4 to the wall. Then, install a 1 × 3 so the ends and top are flush with the ends and top of the 1 × 4. Finally, install a cherry 1 × 2 in the same manner.

Cut and install the mantel board. We used another piece of 1 × 4 cherry the same length as the head casings, but if you have access to woodworking tools consider a thicker board for a little more presence. Or, face-glue two 1 × 4s together.

Finish-sand all the cherry and then apply a light wood stain. After the stain dries, topcoat with a cherry-tone or light mahogany wipe-on varnish that will even out the uneven coloration typical of cherry wood. Fill nail holes with cherry-tinted wood putty.

In this chapter:

• Tile Countertop

Tile makes a durable countertop that is heat-resistant and relatively easy for a DIYer to create. By using larger tiles, you minimize the number of grout lines (and the cleaning that goes with them).

A ceramic tile countertop made with wall or floor tile starts with a core of 3/4” exterior-grade plywood that’s covered with a moisture barrier of 4-mil polyethylene sheeting. Half-inch cementboard is screwed to the plywood, and the edges are capped with cementboard and finished with alkaline-resistant fiberglass mesh tape and thinset mortar. Tiles for edging and backsplashes may be bullnose or trimmed from the factory edges of field tiles.

Backsplashes can be made from cove tile attached to the wall at the back of the countertop. You can use the tile alone or build a shelf-type backsplash using the same construction as for the countertop. Attach the plywood backsplash to the plywood core of the countertop. Wrap the front face and all edges of the plywood backsplash with cementboard before laying tile.

Edge options include V-cap edge tile and hardwood strip edging. V-cap tiles have raised and rounded corners that create a ridge around the countertop perimeter—good for containing spills and water. V-cap tiles must be cut with a wet saw. Hardwood strips should be prefinished with at least three coats of polyurethane finish. Attach the strips to the plywood core so the top of the wood will be flush with the faces of the tiles.

Set the plywood substrate on top of the cabinets, and attach it with screws driven through the cabinet corner brackets. The screws should not be long enough to go through the top of the substrate.

Cut pieces of cementboard to size, then mark and make the cutout for the sink. Dry-fit them on the plywood core with the rough sides of the panels facing up. Leave a 1/8” gap between the cementboard sheets and a 1/4” gap along the perimeter.

Lay the plastic moisture barrier over the plywood substrate, draping it over the edges. Tack it in place with a few staples. Overlap seams in the plastic by 6”, and seal them with packing tape.

Lay the cementboard pieces rough-side up on top of the moisture barrier and attach them with cementboard screws driven every 6”. Drill pilot holes using a masonry bit, and make sure all screw heads are flush with the surface. Wrap the countertop edges with 1 1/4”-wide cementboard strips, and attach them to the core with cementboard screws.

Tape all cementboard joints with alkaline-resistant fiberglass mesh tape. Apply three layers of tape along the front edge where the horizontal cementboard sheets meet the cementboard edging.

Fill all the gaps and cover all of the tape with a layer of thinset mortar. Feather out the mortar with a drywall knife to create a smooth, flat surface.

Determine the required width of the edge tiles. Lay a field tile onto the tile base so it overhangs the front edge by 1/2”. Hold a metal ruler up to the underside of the tile and measure the distance from it to the bottom of the subbase. The edge tiles should be cut to this width (the gap for the grout line causes the edge tile to extend the subbase that conceals it completely).

Cut edge tiles to the determined width using a wet saw. It’s worth renting a quality wet saw for tile if you don’t own one. Floor tile (especially porcelain tile) is thick and difficult to cut with a hand cutter.

Cut tiles for the backsplash. The backsplash tiles (3 1/2” wide in our project) should be cut with a factory edge on each tile that will be oriented upward when they’re installed. You can make efficient use of your tiles by cutting edge tiles from the center area of the tiles you cut to make the backsplash.

Dry-fit tiles on the countertop to find the layout that works best. Once the layout is established, make marks along the vertical and horizontal rows. Draw reference lines through the marks and use a framing square to make sure the lines are perpendicular.

Use a 3/8” square-notched trowel to apply a layer of thinset mortar to the cementboard. Apply enough for two or three tiles, starting at one end. Hold the trowel at roughly a 30° angle and try not to overwork the mortar or remove too much.

Set the first tile into the mortar. Hold a piece of the edge against the countertop edge as a guide to show you exactly how much the tile should overhang the edge.

Cut all the back tiles for the layout to fit (you’ll need to remove about 1” of a 13 × 13” tile) before you begin the actual installation. Set the back tiles into the thinset, maintaining the gap for grout lines created by the small spacer nubs cast into the tiles. If your tiles have no spacer nubs, see the option.

To create a support ledge for the edge tiles, prop pieces of 2 × 4 underneath the front edge of the substrate overhang using wood scraps to prop the ledge tightly up against the substrate.

Apply a thick layer of thinset to the backside of the edge tile with your trowel. This is called “buttering,” and it is easier and neater than attempting to trowel adhesive onto the countertop edge. Press the tiles into position so they are flush with the leading edges of the field tiles.

Butter each backsplash tile and press it into place, doing your best to keep all of the grout lines aligned. Allow the mortar to set according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Mix a batch of grout to complement the tile (keeping in mind that darker grout won’t look dirty as quickly as lighter grout). Apply the grout with a grout float.

Let the grout dry until a light film is created on the countertop surface, then wipe the excess grout off with a sponge and warm, clean water. See grout manufacturer’s instructions on drying tiles and polishing.

Run a bead of clear silicone caulk along the joint between the backsplash and the wall. Install your sink and faucet after the grout has dried (and before you use the sink, if possible).

Wait at least one week and then seal the grout lines with a penetrating grout sealer. This is important to do. Sealing the tiles themselves is not a good idea unless you are using unglazed tiles (a poor choice for countertops, however).

Granite tiles are installed in much the same way as ceramic tiles, but the ultra-narrow gaps and matching grout mimic the appearance of solid polished granite.

Prepare and install the subbase. Measure the cabinet bank from outside edges to outside edges on all sides and cut a piece of 5/8”-thick exterior grade plywood to fit. The edges of the plywood should be flush with the outside edges of the cabinet tops. Screw the plywood to the cabinet braces from underneath.

Make the sink cutout. To create cutting lines, place the sink upside down in the desired location. Trace the edges of the sink and remove it. To create support for the drop-in sink flange, use a compass to trace new cutting lines inside the traced lines (usually 5/8”). See the manufacturer’s instructions to confirm dimensions (some sinks come with a template for making the cutout). Use a jigsaw to cut out the sink opening.

Install the tile underlayment. Granite tile, like ceramic tile, requires a cementboard or denseboard underlayment layer. Cut the material to the same dimension as the plywood subbase and lay the cementboard over the plywood with the edges flush. From inside the sink base, trace around the sink cutout with a marker. Remove the underlayment and make the cutout with a jigsaw fitted with a carbide blade.

Attach the cementboard underlayment to the subbase. First, apply a 1/8”-thick layer of modified thinset to the top of the plywood using a 1/4” notched trowel. Screw the cementboard to the plywood with cementboard screws. Space the screws 4” to 5” apart across the entire surface.

Cut (as needed) and lay out the tiles, beginning with an inside corner if you have one. Arrange tiles for the best color match. Tiles abut directly, with no space for grout. Cut the tiles as necessary to fit. Cut self-edged tiles edge side first. Cut the tiles with the polished side up. Use a fine honing stone to relieve the cut edge to match the manufactured edges.

Round the inside corner cuts. Even though the flange of the sink shown here will cover the inside corners in the sink cutout, take care to make a gentle rounded corner cut by drilling at the corner with a 1/2” masonry bit. Perpendicular corner cuts can lead to cracking. Finish the straight legs of the cutout with a tile saw or a jigsaw with a masonry blade.

Start laying tiles. Use modified thinset and a 1/4” trowel. If you have an inside corner in your countertop, begin there. Apply thinset at the inside corner, enough to place four or five tiles. Set the left and right inside corner pieces and the first 12 × 12 field tile.

Continue setting tiles. Apply the thinset mortar to an area big enough for two to four tiles and place the tiles. Use a 2 × 4 covered with carpeting to set the tiles. Push down on tiles to set, and also across the edges to ensure an even face.

Apply grout and seal. After the thinset has dried for at least 24 hours, grout with an unsanded grout. When the grout has dried, seal with natural stone sealer.

Contemporary glass mosaic sheets create a counter-to-cabinet backsplash for a waterproof, splash-proof wall with high visual impact.

Starting at the midpoint of the installation area, use the story stick to make layout marks along the wall. If an end piece is too small (less than half a tile), adjust the midpoint to give you larger, more attractive end pieces. Use a level to mark this point with a vertical reference line.

While it may appear straight, your countertop may not be level and therefore not a reliable reference line. Run a level along the counter to find the lowest point on the countertop. Mark a point two tiles up from the low point and extend a level line across the entire work area.

Apply mastic adhesive evenly to the area beneath the horizontal reference line using a notched trowel. Comb the adhesive horizontally with the notched edge.

Press tiles into the adhesive with a slight twisting motion. If the tiles are not self-spacing, use plastic spacers to maintain even grout lines. If the tiles do not hang in place, use masking tape to hold them in place until the adhesive sets.

Install a whole row along the reference line, checking occasionally to make sure the tiles are level. Continue installing tiles below the first row, trimming tiles that butt against the countertop as needed.

Install an edge border if it is needed in your layout. Mosaic sheets normally do not have bullnose tiles on the edges, so if you don’t wish to see the cut edges of the outer tiles, install a vertical column of edge tiles at the end of the backsplash area.

When the tiles are in place, make sure they are flat and firmly embedded by laying a beating block against the tile and rapping it lightly with a mallet. Remove the spacers. Allow the mastic to dry for at least 24 hours, or as directed by the manufacturer.

Mix the grout and apply it with a rubber grout float. Spread it over the tiles, keeping the float at a low 30° angle, pressing the grout deep into the joints.

NOTE: For grout joints 1/8” and smaller, be sure to use a non-sanded grout.

Wipe off excess grout, holding the float at a right angle to the tile, working diagonally so as not to remove grout from the joints.

Clean excess grout with a damp sponge. When the grout has dried to a haze, buff the tile clean with a soft cloth. Apply a bead of caulk between the countertop and the tiles.

This island adds storage, countertop space, and seating to a kitchen, revealing the truly astonishing transformation this simple yet functional piece can achieve.

Cut the bottom panel the same dimensions as the base frame from 3/4” plywood. Attach it to the frame with finish nails. Then, cut the side panels to size and shape and fasten them to the edges with 6d finish nails and adhesive. Slip 3/4” shims (scrap plywood works well) beneath the side panels before fastening them.

Cut the 2 × 4 cross supports to length and install them between the side panels at every corner, including the corners created by the L-shape cutout. Use 3” deck screws driven through the side panels and into the ends of the cross supports.

Prime and paint or stain the cabinet interior and exterior. Regardless of finish, because the island will be subjected to spills and liquids, no edge or face should be left unfinished.

Build a face frame from 1 × 2 hardwood to fit the cabinet front. Attach it to the cabinet with 6d finish nails and hang the cabinet doors (we installed three 13”-wide overlay doors).

Cut strips of 3/4” exterior plywood to make the subbases for the countertops and a backer for the backsplash. The lower counter subbase should overhang by 2” on the front and sides. The upper should overhang 2” on the sides and be centered on the cabinet front to back. Attach the backer and subbases with wallboard screws driven down into the 2 × 4 cross supports.

Cut 2” wide strips of plywood for buildup strips and attach to the undersides of the subbases with construction adhesive and screws.

Attach cementboard to the counter subbases, the backsplash, and tape seams; cover screw heads with thinset mortar.

Cut tile to fit the backsplash area and attach them with thinset adhesive (see Tile Backsplash, page 186).

Cut the edge tiles and fasten them around the perimeter of the subbase with thinset mortar. The tiles should be flush or slightly below the bottoms of the buildup strips and project past the top surfaces so they will be level with the field tiles. If you are not using edge tiles with a bullnose top, install the tiles so they are level with the subbase surface and overhang them with the field tiles.

Install the field tiles for the countertops last (see Tile Countertop, pages 172 to 181).

Choose a suitable grout color and apply it to the tile with a grout float. Buff off excess once it has dried. Seal the grout with grout sealer.

In this chapter:

• Tiled Steps

Dig out rubble in large cracks and chips using a small cold chisel or flat-head screwdriver. Use a wire brush to loosen dirt and debris in small cracks. Sweep the area or use a wet/dry vacuum to remove all debris.

Fill small cracks and chips with masonry patching compound using a masonry trowel. Allow the patching compound to cure according to manufacturer’s directions.

Test the surface of the steps and stoop for low spots using a 4-ft. level or other straightedge. Fill any low spots with patching compound and allow the compound to cure thoroughly.

Spread a layer of liquid isolation membrane over the concrete using a notched trowel. Smooth the surface of the membrane using the flat edge of a trowel. Allow the membrane to cure according to manufacturer’s directions.

The sequence is important when tiling a stairway with landing. The primary objective is to install the tile in such a way that the fewest possible cut edges are visible from the main viewing position. If you are tiling the sides of concrete steps, start laying tile there first. Begin by extending horizontal lines from the tops of the stair treads back to the house on the sides of the steps. Use a 4-ft. level.

Mix a batch of thinset mortar with latex bonding adhesive and trowel it onto the sides of the steps, trying to retain visibility of the layout lines. Because the top steps are likely more visible than the bottom steps, start on top and work your way down.

Begin setting tiles into the thinset mortar on the sides of the steps. Start at the top and work your way downward. Try to lay out tile so the vertical gaps between tiles align. Use spacers if you need to.

Wrap a 2 × 4 in old carpet and drag it back and forth across the tile surfaces to set them evenly. Don’t get too aggressive here—you don’t want to dislodge all of the thinset mortar.

Measure the width of a riser, including the thickness of the tiles you’ve laid on the step sides. Calculate the centerpoint and mark it clearly with chalk or a high visibility marker.

Next, dry-lay the tiles on the stair risers. Because the location of the tops of the riser tiles affects the positioning of the tread and landing tiles, you’ll get the most accurate layout if the riser tiles are laid first. Start by stacking tiles vertically against the riser. (In some cases, you’ll only need one tile to reach from tread to tread.) Add spacers. Trace the location of the tread across the back of the top tile to mark it for cutting.

Cut enough tiles to size to lay tiles for all the stair risers. Be sure to allow enough space for grout joints if you are stacking tiles.

Trowel thinset mortar mixed with bonding adhesive onto the faces of the risers. In most cases, you should be able to tile each riser all at once.

Lay tiles on the risers. The bottom tile edges can rest on the tread, and the tops of the top tiles should be flush with or slightly lower than the plane of the tread above.

Dry-lay tile in both directions on the stair landing. You’ll want to maintain the same grout lines that are established by the riser tiles, but you’ll want to evaluate the front-to-back layout to make sure you don’t end up with a row of tiles that is less than 2” or so in width.

Cut tiles as indicated by your dry run, and then begin installing them by troweling thinset mortar for the bullnose tiles at the front edge of the landing. The tiles should overlap the top edges of the riser tiles, but not extend past their faces.

Set the first row of field tiles, maintaining an even gap between the field tiles and the bullnose tiles.

Add the last row of tiles next to the house and threshold, cutting them as needed so they are between 1/4 and 1/2” away from the house.

Install tiles on the stair treads, starting at the top tread and working your way downward. Set a bullnose tile on each side of the centerline and work your way toward the sides, making sure to conceal the step-side tiles with the tread tiles.

Fill in the field tiles on the stair treads, being sure to leave a gap between the back tiles and the riser tiles that’s the same width as the other tile gaps.

Let the thinset mortar cure for a few days, and then apply grout in the gaps between tiles using a grout float. Wipe away the grout after it clouds over. Cover with plastic, in the event of rain.

After a few weeks, seal the grout lines with an exterior-rated grout sealer.

Select (or have prepared) a pretinted caulk that’s the same color as your grout. Fill the gap between the back row of tiles and the house with caulk. Smooth with a wet finger if needed.

This modest, compact tiled patio creates a lovely, relaxing sitting area right outside sliding doors, but without consuming too much yard or garden space.

NOTE: Wear eye protection when cutting tile, and handle cut tiles carefully—the cut edges of some materials may be very sharp.

Make adjustments as needed so that the modular pattern breaks evenly over the patio surface and is symmetrical from side to side. You may need to adjust the position of one or both lines. The intersection of the lines is where your tile installation will begin. Outline the position of each group of tiles on the slab.

Mix thinset mortar according to manufacturer’s directions, and add an additive as directed. At the intersection of the two layout lines, use a notched trowel to spread thinset mortar over an area large enough to accommodate the layout of the first modular group of tiles. Hold the trowel at a 45° angle to rake the mortar to a consistent depth.

Set the first tile, twisting it slightly as you push it into the mortar. Align it with both adjusted layout lines, then place a padded 2 × 4 over the center of the tile and give it a light rap with a hammer to set the tile.

Position the second tile adjacent to the first with a slight gap between them. Place spacers on end in the joint near each corner and push the second tile against the spacers. Make certain the first tile remains aligned with the layout lines. Set the padded 2 × 4 across both tiles and tap to set. Use a damp cloth to remove any mortar that squeezes out of the joint or gets on tile surfaces. Joints must be at least 1/8”-deep to hold grout.

Lay the remaining tiles of the first modular unit using spacers to set gaps. Using a trowel, scrape the excess mortar from the concrete pad in areas where you will not yet be working to prevent it from hardening and interfering with tile installation.

With the first modular unit set, continue laying tile following the pattern established. You can use the chalklines for general reference, but they will not be necessary as layout lines. To prevent squeeze-out between tiles, scrape a heavy accumulation of mortar 1/2” away from the edge of a set tile before setting the adjacent tile.

After installing the tile, remove all the spacers, cover the tiled area with plastic, and let the thinset mortar cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions. When tile has fully set, remove the plastic and mix grout, using a grout additive instead of water. Grout additive is especially important in outdoor applications, because it creates joints that are more resilient in changing temperatures.

Use a grout float to spread grout over an area that is roughly 10 sq. ft. Push down with the face of the float to force grout into the joints, then hold the float edge at a 45° angle to the tile surfaces and scrape off the excess grout.

Once you’ve grouted this area, wipe off the grout residue using a damp sponge. Wipe with a light, circular motion—you want to clean tile surfaces but not pull grout out of the joints. Don’t try to get the tile perfectly clean the first time. Wipe the area several times, rinsing out the sponge frequently.

Once the grout has begun to set (usually about 1 hour, depending on temperature and humidity), clean the tile surfaces again. You want to thoroughly clean grout residue from tile surfaces because it is difficult to remove once it has hardened. Use a cloth to buff off a light film left after final cleaning.

Cover the pad with plastic and let the grout cure according to manufacturer’s instructions. Once the grout has cured, use a foam brush to apply grout sealer to only the grout, wiping any spill-over off of tile surfaces.

Apply tile sealer to the entire surface using a paint roller. Cover the patio with plastic and allow the sealer to dry completely before exposing the patio to weather or traffic.

Set tile on the outside of the flue tile and the inside down to the line. Working on one side of the flue at a time, spread thin-set mortar on the surface, then press the tile into place. Let the mortar dry according to manufacturer’s directions. When the mortar is dry, grout the tile.

Position four bricks at the bottom of the water garden and set the flue tile on them. (The flue tile will be very heavy—recruit a helper or two for this.) Set a concrete block in the center of the flue tile and put the fountain pump on top of it.

Set the lights in place, securing them to the concrete block with dabs of silicone caulk. Run the cables from the pump and lights out of the pond to the nearest fixture in your low-voltage lighting system. (If you don’t have a low-voltage lighting system, run the cables to the transformer and plug the transformer into the nearest GFCI outlet.)

Connect the cables from the pump and lights to a cable from your low-voltage lighting system, using the simple connectors included with the pump. Add water to the pond and test the lights and pump. Adjust the operation of the pump as necessary. Dig a small, shallow trench and bury the cables.

If necessary, cut the expanded metal grate to fit inside the flue tile, using a jigsaw with a metal-cutting blade. In the center of the grate, use the jigsaw or a bolt cutter to expand a hole to approximately 2” in diameter. Insert the pump’s discharge tube into this hole, then set the grate on top of the L-brackets in the flue tile. Mound the sea glass around the discharge tube. Use silicone to stick individual pieces of sea glass together, if necessary to hold them in place. Cover the remaining grate with a layer of sea glass.

A few pieces of broken-up mosaic tile can turn an ordinary pot into a garden showpiece.

Draw an irregular border around the planter, ranging from 1 1/2 to 2” wide. Use a putty knife to spread mastic within the border and position the tile, alternating between the whole and half tiles all the way around the planter.

Fill in the remaining portion of the border with pieces of broken tile. Let the mastic dry according to manufacturer’s directions. Grout the tile. If the planter will be used outdoors, apply grout sealer after the grout has fully cured.

Making this tiled benchtop requires some creativity and a fair amount of tile cutting, but the result is both interesting and beautiful.

Cut three stretchers. Mark the sides, 4 1/2” from the inside of each end. Using 1 1/2” blocks beneath them as spacers, position the stretchers and make sure they’re level. Drill pilot holes and fasten the stretchers to the sides with 3” screws.

Cut one 15 × 48” core from 3/4” exterior-grade plywood and another the same size from cementboard. Staple plastic sheeting over the plywood, draping it over the edges. Lay the cementboard rough-side up on the plywood and attach it with 1 1/4” cementboard screws driven every 6”. Make sure the screw heads are flush with the surface.

Position the bench frame upside down and over the plywood/cementboard core. Drill pilot holes and then drive 2” galvanized deck screws through the stretchers and into the plywood.

Cut four braces from a cedar 2 × 6. Mark the angle on each end of each brace by measuring down 1 1/2” from the top edge and 1 1/2” along the bottom edge. Draw a line between the two points and cut along that line using a power or hand miter saw or a circular saw.

On each brace, measure down 3/4” from the top edge and draw a reference line across the stretcher for the screw positions. Drill 1/8” pilot holes along the reference line. Position a brace on each side of the end stretchers and fasten them with 3” screws driven through the braces and into the stretchers.

Cut four 13” legs from a 4 × 4. Position each leg between a set of braces and against the sides of the bench frame. Drill pilot holes through each brace and attach the leg to the braces by driving 3” screws through the braces and into the leg. Repeat the process for each leg. Sand all surfaces with 150-grit sandpaper, then seal all wood surfaces with clear wood sealer.

Snap perpendicular reference lines to mark the center of the length and width of the bench. Beginning at the center of the bench, dry-fit the field tiles, including spacers. Set the accent tiles in place and mark the field tile for cutting.

Cut the field tile and continue dry-fitting the bench top, including the accent and border tiles. When you’re satisfied, remove the tile and apply thinset mortar over the cementboard using a notched trowel.

Set the tile into the thinset mortar, using a slight twisting motion. Continue adding thinset and setting the tile until the bench top is covered. Remove the spacers. Let the mortar dry according to manufacturer’s directions.

Mix grout and use a grout float to force it into the joints surrounding the tile. Wipe excess grout away with a damp sponge. When the grout has dried slightly, polish the tiles with a clean, dry cloth to remove the slight haze of grout. Seal the grout joints with grout sealer when dry.

In this chapter:

• Maintaining Floor Tile

Regrouting tile may feel like a repair project (and not a very fun one at that), but it really is more of an ongoing maintenance issue. Failed or failing grout will allow moisture underneath tiles and can cause entire floors to fail.

If the tile is not already cracked, use a hammer to puncture the tile by tapping a nail set or center punch into it. Alternatively, if the tile is significantly cracked, use a chisel to pry up the tile.

Insert a chisel into one of the cracks and gently tap the tile. Start at the center and chip outward so you don’t damage the adjacent tiles. Be aware that cementboard looks a lot like mortar when you’re chiseling. Remove and discard the broken pieces. Be sure to wear eye protection.

Use a putty knife to scrape away old thinset mortar; use a chisel for poured mortar installation. If the underlayment is covered with metal lath, you won’t be able to get the area smooth; just clean it out the best you can. Once the mortar is scraped from the underlayment, smooth the rough areas with sandpaper. If there are gouges in the underlayment, fill them with epoxy-based thinset mortar (for cementboard) or a floor-leveling compound (for plywood). Allow the area to dry completely.

Set a new tile into the empty spot. Use a notched trowel to apply thinset mortar to the back of the tile before setting it into place. Make sure all debris is cleaned from the floor. Rap on a carpet-covered wood block with a mallet to set the tile.

Fill in around the new tile with grout that matches the grout already on the floor. Because most grout darkens over time, choose a shade that’s a bit darker than the original color.

Carbide-blade grout tools are used to remove failing grout.

Failed grout allows water underneath tiles, which causes the damage to spread rapidly. If the grout lines in your tile floor are crumbling or a few tiles are loosened, the best solution is to regrout the entire floor.

Wash the tiled floor with a 1:1 mix of white vinegar and water, paying special attention to the areas around the tile joints. Vacuum the floor first to get rid of all debris.

Apply new grout. Prepare grout mix according to the instructions on the package and then pack fresh grout deep into the joints using a rubber grout float. Hold the float at a 30° angle to the tiled surface.

Wipe diagonally across the tiles and grouted joints to remove excess grout and smooth the joints. Seal the grout joints with grout sealer after they’ve dried for a week or so.

NOTE: Sealing all the grout joints will help new grout lines blend with old grout if you’re only doing a partial regrouting.

Grout that is in good condition but has simply become stained or discolored can be refreshed quickly and easily with an application of grout colorant.

Work the colorant into the the grout with an old (but clean!) toothbrush.

Use a damp rag or white nylon scrub pad to remove excess colorant from the edges of surrounding tile. Allow the grout colorant to dry completely.

Clean and rinse the grout joints, then spread grout over the entire tile surface, using a rubber grout float or sponge. Work the grout well into the joints and let it set slightly.

Wipe away excess grout with a damp sponge. When the grout is dry, wipe away the residue and polish the tiles with a dry cloth.

Use masking tape to hold the accessory in place while the adhesive dries. Let the mortar dry completely (12 to 24 hrs.), then grout and seal the area.

Put a dab of silicone caulk over the pilot holes and the tips of the screws before inserting them. Let the caulk dry, then install the new fixture on the mounting plate.

If the tile to be replaced is a cut tile, cut a new one to match. Test-fit the new tile and make sure it sits flush with the field. Spread adhesive on the back of the replacement tile and place it in the hole, twisting it slightly. Use masking tape to hold the tile in place for 24 hrs. so the adhesive can dry.

Remove the tape, then apply premixed grout using a sponge or grout float. Let the grout set slightly, then tool it with a rounded object such as a toothbrush handle. Wipe away excess grout with a damp cloth.

Let the grout dry for an hour, then polish the tile with a clean, dry cloth.

To determine if your grout needs to be resealed, test the existing sealer by putting a few drops of water on a grout line. If the water beads up, the sealer is still working. If the water absorbs into the grout, it needs to be resealed.

For heavy stains on natural stone tile, apply poultice made for cleaning porous stone materials. Cover the stain with the poultice, then tape plastic over it. Let the poulitice set according to the manufacturer’s instructions, then remove it.