Flooring
Black & Decker Wood Floors - Hardwood - Laminate - Bamboo - Wood Tile - and More
Source: Black & Decker Wood Floors - Hardwood - Laminate - Bamboo - Wood Tile - and More.pdf
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WOOD FLOORS The Best DIY Series from
the Brand You Trust
WOOD
Everything You Need to Know to Install,
Repair, and Maintain a Wood Floor
WOOD FLOORS
While home interior trends change, and some flooring options may come
FLOORS
and go with them, the popularity of wood flooring does not wane. It’s
an enduring, renewable material choice that can add value and charm to
your home. Using BLACK+DECKER Wood Floors, DIYers with moderate tool
skills can tackle a wood flooring project and enjoy the cost savings that go
along with their successful efforts.
This book covers all phases of wood, engineered wood, and laminate
flooring installation, from preliminary review of flooring choices, tools,
and prep work through final finishing and reinstalling trim. Of course, not
all wood flooring situations require removal and replacement. DIYers will
appreciate a chapter devoted to repairing and restoring existing wood
flooring that is in serviceable condition.
THIS BOOK INCLUDES:
• Planning and design • Step-by-step photographs
• Step-by-step photographs for for repairing and restoring
installing wood, engineered wood floors
wood, and laminate flooring • A thorough review of wood,
• Detailed maintenance engineered wood, and laminate
instructions for all wood floors flooring options
TOOLS & MATERIALS How to Install a Hardwood Plank Floor
Jigsaw Hammer Eye and ear protection
Circular saw Pry bar Work glovesTools & Stapler Utility knife Power nailer Rosin paper For bonded floor: Notched trowel Over 260 Materials Strip & Plank Tape measure Chalk line Wood floor strips or planks Nails or staples Flooring adhesive Wood glue Photos and Lists Floors Drill Reducer strip or transition strip Cardboard Flooring pull bar Nail set Floor roller Illustrations Rubber mallet Wood putty Know what I nstalling tongue-and-groove hardwood strips or planks Navigate you will is straightforward. They can be fastened with mechanical each step of fasteners such as nails or staples, need for or they can be glued down or fully bonded. Regardless of installation 1 2 the project each project methods, strips, planks, or engineered planks must run perpendicular to the joists unless Acclimate the flooring by stacking planks in the installation room. Separate the rows of flooring with wood scraps. Allow Install a layer of rosin paper over the entire subfloor, stapling it down and overlapping the edges by 4”. The purpose of this quickly and before you additional underlayment has been installed. Be sure to measure and the material to rest in the space for several days, or as directed by the manufacturer’s instructions. layer is mostly to eliminate noise caused by the floorboards scraping or pressing on the wood subfloor or underlayment (if required), which should be installed and leveled before the easily cut boards at the appropriate begin ends to ensure the tongue-and- groove joints fit together for TIP: Inspect the wood flooring as soon as it arrives. Look for any major defects such as knots, cracks, and damaged, warped, or bowed boards. It’s easier to replace inadequate flooring installation begins (pages 44 to 47).
end matches. boards during the acclimation period than in mid‑installation.
To fasten with mechanical
fasteners, the first and last boards
are facenailed, while the other 3 4
boards are blind-nailed through
the tongue. Once the first few rows
are installed, use a power nailer—
either manual or pneumatic.
The power nailer positions the
fastener at exactly the right angle
Detailed
5CT
Step‑by‑Step
through the tongue, the body of
the board, and into the floor. It
is critical that the nail depth is
set correctly. The fastener should
be set slightly below the surface Instructions
of the tongue. If it is set above or
flush with the surface, it may cause
dimpling in the finished floor. If a second board to check for consistency. Once set, remove the sample
No need to
guess what
the staple or nail penetrates more boards and destroy.
than halfway through the tongue, A fully bonded wood floor is attached to the subfloor with adhesive,
4
the board will creak or squeak. To much like a tile floor. A bonded wood floor can be installed over concrete
to do next
Check that the room is square using the 3-4-5 rule: measure out Determine the location of the floor joist and drive a nail in at
set the fastener depth correctly, and tile, and is typically used over radiant heating systems so the heating
3' from a corner in one direction and 4' in the other direction— each end, centered on the joists. Snap chalk lines along the
fasten a sample board to the elements are not punctured by fasteners. The flooring product, adhesive, the distance between the marks should be exactly 5'. If the centerlines of each joist, connecting the nails. Use these as a
subfloor/underlayment. Once you and subfloor and underlayment must all be compatible. The instructions room is out of square, you’ll have to decide which wall (usually reference for installing floorboards.
have adjusted the depth, fasten that come with your floor cover all the appropriate combinations. the longest) to follow as a baseline for laying the flooring. (continued)
66 WOOD FLOORS WOOD FLOOR INSTALLATION 67
3
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WOOD
FLOORS
Hardwood • Laminate • Bamboo • Wood Tile • and More
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© 2017 Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc. ISBN: 978-1-59186-680-0
Digital edition: 978-0-76035-820-7
First published in 2017 by Cool Springs Press, an imprint of The
Quarto Group,401 Second Avenue North, Suite 310, Minneapolis, Softcover edition: 978-1-59186-680-0
MN 55401 USA.Telephone: (612) 344-8100 Fax: (612) 344-8692
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
quartoknows.com
Visit our blogs at quartoknows.com
Names: Black & Decker Corporation (Towson, Md.)
Title: Wood floors : hardwood - laminate - bamboo - wood tile - more.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any
Other titles: Black & Decker wood floors
form without written permission of the copyright owners. All images
Description: Minneapolis : Cool Springs Press, 2017.
in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior
Identifiers: LCCN 2016049577 | ISBN 9781591866800 (paperback)
consent of the artists concerned, and no responsibility is accepted
Subjects: LCSH: Floors, Wooden--Amateurs' manuals. | BISAC:
by producer, publisher, or printer for any infringement of copyright
HOUSE & HOME / Do-It-Yourself / Carpentry. | HOUSE & HOME /
or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication. Every
Woodworking. | HOUSE & HOME / Remodeling & Renovation.
effort has been made to ensure that credits accurately comply with
Classification: LCC TH2529.W6 W655 2017 | DDC 645/.1--dc23
information supplied. We apologize for any inaccuracies that may
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2016049577
have occurred and will resolve inaccurate or missing information in a
subsequent reprinting of the book.
Acquiring Editor: Todd R. Berger
Project Manager: Alyssa Bluhm
Cool Springs Press titles are also available at discount for retail,
Art Director: Brad Springer
wholesale, promotional, and bulk purchase. For details, contact the
Layout: Danielle Smith-Boldt
Special Sales Manager by email at specialsales@quarto.com or by
mail at The Quarto Group, Attn: Special Sales Manager, 401 Second
Printed in China
Avenue North, Suite 310, Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
BLACK+DECKER and the BLACK+DECKER logo are trademarks of The Black & Decker Corporation and are used under license. All rights reserved.
NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The publisher and
BLACK+DECKER cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse of the
information provided.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional
techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions included with products,Proof 1 2 T
since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required:
some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help.
Consult your local building department for information on building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to
your project.
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Contents
Wood Floors 8
Introduction 7
Gallery of Wood Flooring Ideas 9
WOOD FLOOR BASICS 19
Planning Your New Wood Floor 21 22
Planning Overview 22
Floor Anatomy 23
Floor Selection & Design 28
Preparing for a Wood Floor Project 37
Floor Covering Removal 38
Underlayment Removal 44
Subfloor Repair 46
Installing Raised Subfloor Panels 48
37
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Contents (continued)
WOOD FLOOR INSTALLATION 53
52
Installation Techniques 55
Transitions for Hardwood Floors 58
Wood Floor Installation Tips 62
Wood Floor Installation 65
Strip & Plank Floors 66
Bonded Bamboo Strip Flooring 74
Installing Laminate Flooring 80
64
Special Floor Projects 91
Parquet Tile 92
Decorative Medallion 96
Vintage Wood Floors 98
End Grain Floors 104
One-Piece Base Molding 106
Built-Up Base Molding 108
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FINISH & MAINTAIN WOOD FLOORS 111
112
Finishing Wood Floors 113
Floor Stains & Finishes 114
Wax Finishes 118
Painting Wood Floors 120
Maintaining Wood Floors 125
Cleaning & Maintaining a Wood Floor 126 119
Removing Stains from Wood 128
Refinishing Hardwood Floors 130
Repairing Scratches & Dents to Hardwood Floors 140
Fixing Loose & Squeaky Floorboards 142
Replacing Damaged Floorboards 144
Replacing a Damaged Stair Tread 152
129
Resources 155
Photo Credits 155
Metric Conversion Charts 156
Index 157
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Introduction
W elcome to the wonderful world of wood flooring. There is nothing quite like the
warmth and glow of a pegged plank wood floor. Or the modern sleek lines of lime-
washed engineered wood. Or the elegance of the royal parquet. And the best part is,
whichever of these you want, you can install yourself!
BLACK+DECKER Wood Floors has all the information floor coverings, repairing subfloors, or installing
you need to choose a flooring style, to design, and to underlayment. If you are thinking of installing wood
measure a new floor, tear out the old floor coverings, flooring in your basement, the raised subfloor project
install a beautiful new wood floor, and finish and gives you the perfect way to keep your new floor dry
maintain it. and mildew free.
Wood flooring is a fantastic do-it-yourself project Wood Floor Installation is the real meat of the
because it requires mostly physical labor and book. The tools you’ll need and the techniques
attention to detail. Any moderately skilled handy needed for success are shown with photos and text.
person can do all of the projects in this book. Details like cutting techniques and transitions, and
BLACK+DECKER Wood Floors takes you through tips for working with stairs and around intrusions
the process of choosing and installing a wood floor are covered. Then, nearly a dozen how-to projects
step by step. The book opens with a beautiful gallery for every kind of wood floor from parquets and
of the myriad wood flooring options available. From end grain tiles to laminates and reclaimed planks
exotic hardwoods to sustainable bamboo, from is covered with step-by-step directions and
medallions and parquets, to repurposed, recycled detailed photographs.
woods, you can see what all the major manufacturers Wood floors are durable, especially with the new,
are offering, what is trending, and what the constant hardened finishes available today, but they do need
classics are. With the step-by-step photo instructions maintenance and the occasional repair or refinishing.
contained in this book, you will be able to install all In Finish & Maintain Wood Floors, the various
these types of floors. options for applying original or touch-up finishes are
Wood Floor Basics then takes you through all the covered, along with a great project for painting floors.
steps needed to plan and prepare for your wood floor Maybe your floor looks good except for a stain or
project. Here you can learn how to evaluate your blemish. How-to projects for cleaning, bleaching, or
existing floors, how to select and design your new replacing existing boards or planks show you how
floor, how to measure for materials, and the styles and to remedy the issue. The tips and techniques are
installation methods of various wood floor products. presented in full detail.
Preparing for a Wood Floor Project then gets All in all, BLACK+DECKER Wood Floors has got
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you into the nitty-gritty of removing existing you, and your floors, covered!
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Gallery of Wood
Flooring Ideas
T he perfect floor is an integral component of any
interior design. A well-chosen wood floor will
interact with and highlight or downplay other design
elements in the room.
The flooring should also be practical and fit the
needs of each room. High-traffic areas require woods
and finishes that are up to the task. Patterns and
colors can hide or amplify wear patterns.
The photos in this section highlight a wide range
of wood floor materials, styles, and colors for any
room in the home. The following pages are sure to
give you new ideas for creative ways to meet your
wood floor needs.
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If you want the rich colors and patterns of exotic tropical wood
but want to save the rainforest, laminate is just the ticket. This
acacia print looks just like the real thing.
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Random-width engineered maple planks with a golden stain create an airy, modern feel. This 3⁄8"-thick, and 3¼"- and 5"-width
planks with random length create an upscale look.
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Maple stained a rich auburn creates a warm, inviting
space. A hand-scraped finish makes it appropriate for
heavy-traffic areas—it won't show wear like a smooth
finish. Finished, hand-scraped maple can be more
expensive per square foot.
Proof 1
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Charcoal gray
parquet creates
a stunning floor.
Parquet floors are
available finished
or unfinished
and in a variety
of thicknesses
and dozens of
wood types.
Wide planks,
sand-blasted
texture, oiled
finish, and
character
galore make
these new 11"
engineered oak
planks appear
as though they
have been around
for centuries.Proof 1
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Parquet isn’t just for European castles. Parquet is perfect
for high-traffic areas because the pattern can mask minor
wear and tear.
Proof 1
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An inlayed border on stairs adds
distinctive detail. Available in many
patterns, thicknesses, wood types, and
finished or unfinished, options with
borders abound. Installing an inlayed
border is a challenging project for the
home DIYer.
Ten-inch-wide engineered oak planks
with a wire-brushed texture and a
factory-applied oil finish complement
the Euro feel of this modern
laundry room.Proof 1
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Proof 1
End grain wood tiles are one of the oldest forms of decorative wood flooring. End grain wood is so durable it was once used to
cobble streets.
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Hand-scraped, variable-width engineered planks add deep
color and texture to this airy bedroom. Its 3⁄8" thickness
creates a low profile, perfect for installing over an existing
floor, cutting down considerably on project installation time.Proof 1
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Consider matching your floor to your cabinets. Bamboo, used here, is eco-friendly, durable flooring available in a wide variety
of finishes and widths. Eco-conscious consumers can look for FSC-certified bamboo flooring, often available by special order.
Many types of bamboo flooring are less expensive than solid hardwoods.
Hickory is a
popular wood
for wide-plank
engineered
floors due to
its interesting
grain pattern.
Engineered
flooring uses
layers of wood to
gain the desired
thickness.
It is often a
less-expensive
option than solid
hardwood. For
engineered floors
to be stable, don’t
consider flooring
that has thinner
than a 3⁄16" wear
layer (the part
of the floor you
walk on).
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WOOD FLOOR BASICS
B efore starting a big project such as a floor installation, get a handle on the steps
necessary for a good outcome.
Understanding how a wood floor is constructed is the first step in creating your own
beautiful wood floor. In Planning Your New Wood Floor, you will learn that the first step
in a new floor project is to examine the existing flooring. Gaining an understanding of
what might need to be repaired, removed, or replaced before a project can begin is crucial.
Knowing what you have can play an important role in your upcoming choices.
Floor Selection & Design gives you design tips on all the aspects of floor design. In
this section you will learn how the colors, shapes, and sizes of wood floor products affect
the overall feel of a room. Durability, ease of installation, and other characteristics are
covered so you can feel confident that you are making a good choice. After all, a wood
floor can easily last a lifetime, so it’s good to have as much information as possible before
choosing materials.
Preparing for a Wood Floor Project gets you prepared for the installation of your new
floor. The tools you need and the techniques for removing carpet, sheet flooring, tile, and
ceramic tile are detailed. In some cases you may need to remove existing underlayment
or install new underlayment. You may also find that parts of the subfloor are weakened or
damaged and need to be replaced. How-to steps show you exactly how to remove the old
and replace with the new. Also included are tips for protecting yourself and your home while
you complete the project.
If you have a basement or other area with a concrete slab, directions for how to install a
raised subfloor designed for damp areas give you the option of installing wood flooring in
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Planning Your
New Wood Floor
R emodeling projects require substantial advance
planning. For a wood floor project, it pays to
begin with a detailed plan and attention to design.
The floor is an integral part of a room, and should
be considered with not only the room in mind, but
the overall design concept of the house. Wood floors
can be exciting attention grabbers or part of the
background scenery for other outstanding features.
With careful planning, you can create a successful
design that flows and integrates with the rest of
your design palette.
Keep in mind that hardwood floors and laminates
will last a long time. Changing these floor coverings in
the future may require removal as the only option.
The information in this section will help you
understand the anatomy of your existing floor and
plan and design new floors to meet your needs.
In this chapter:
• Planning Overview
• Floor Anatomy
• Floor Selection & Design
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Planning Overview
T he floor is one of the most visible parts of your
decor, which is why appearance is a primary
consideration when choosing your new wood floor.
Start your search by collecting ideas and inspiration
from magazines and books, and visit retail flooring
showrooms and home centers to get a sense of what
your options are. Measure the area of the project room to calculate the quantity
of materials you’ll need. Measure the full width and length
As important as appearance is, there are many of the space to determine the overall square footage, then
other considerations that will go into your flooring subtract the areas that will not be covered, such as stairways,
decision. You’ll no doubt put your budget near the cabinets, and other permanent fixtures.
top of the list, but you should think about how easy
the floor will be to install, how comfortable it is When estimating materials for your project,
underfoot, its longevity and durability, its resistance always add 10 to 15 percent to the total square
to moisture, and how easy it is to clean. You’ll also footage to allow for waste in installation. And always
need to assess the demands of the space, including save extra flooring materials just in case you ever
moisture, heavy traffic, and other conditions. need to make a repair.
CHECKLIST FOR PLANNING A WOOD FLOOR PROJECT
Use this checklist to organize your activities as you start screws. Add 10 to 15% to your total square footage to
your wood floor project. allow for waste caused by trimming.
• Measure the project area carefully. Be sure to include
all nooks and closets, as well as areas under all TIP: For help in estimating, go to a building supply
center and read the labels on materials and adhesives to
movable appliances. Calculate the total square footage
determine coverage.
of the project area.
• Make a list of the tools needed for the job. Locate
• Use your measurements to create a floor plan on
sources for the tools you will need to buy or rent.
graph paper.
• Estimate the total cost of the project, including all
• If you are installing a medallion, parquet floor, or
preparation materials, flooring, installation materials,
painting a floor, sketch pattern options on tracing paper
and tools. For expensive materials, shop around to get
laid over the floor plan to help you visualize what the the best prices.
flooring will look like after you install it.
• Check with building supply centers or flooring retail
• Identify areas where the type of floor covering will stores for delivery costs. A delivery service is often
change, and choose the best threshold material to use worth the additional charge.
for the transition.
• Determine how much demolition you will need to
• Estimate the amount of preparation material needed, do, and plan for debris removal through your regular
including underlayment sheets and floor leveler. garbage collector or a disposal company.
• Estimate the amount of installation material needed, • Plan for the temporary displacement of furnishings andProof 1
including the floor covering and other supplies, such as removable appliances to minimize disruption of your
adhesive, rosin paper, thresholds, nails or staples, and daily routine.
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Cut the carpet into pieces small enough to be easily removed.
If you will be refinishing the underlying hardwood floor, take
care not to cut too deeply. Roll up the carpet and remove it
from the room, then remove the padding.
NOTE: Padding is often stapled to the floor and usually
comes up in pieces as you roll it.
Floor Anatomy FLOATING FLOORS
A floating floor doesn’t actually float. It is called floating
because no adhesives or fasteners are used to attach it
A typical wood-frame floor consists of layers that
work together to provide the required
structural support and desired appearance. These
to the subfloor. A floating floor usually is installed over
an underlayment pad, which may add some sound
deadening value.
parts include:
Joists. At the bottom of the floor are the joists
(or trusses in some homes) 2 × 10 or larger framing place a ½-inch plywood underlayment. If you want
members that support the weight of the floor. Joists to run floorboards in the same direction as the
are typically spaced 16 inches apart on center. joists, you will need to install underlayment over
Subfloor. The subfloor is nailed to the joists. the subfloor.
Most subfloors installed in the 1970s or later are Adhesive. For some types of wood floors, adhesive
made of ¾-inch tongue-and-groove plywood; in older is spread on the underlayment before the floor
houses, the subfloor often consists of 1 × 6, 1 × 8, or covering is installed.
even 1 × 10 wood planks nailed diagonally across the Floor covering. With the exception of some thin
floor joists. profile specialty products, solid hardwood floors are
installed with nails or staples. Engineered hardwood
NOTE: 1× lumber is ¾" thick. floors can be installed with fasteners, with glue,
or as a floating floor. Laminate floors typically are
Underlayment. On top of the subfloor may be floating floors but require adhesive when installed
a layer of underlayment. In newer homes, builders on stairs.
Cutaway of a “Before” Floor
A modern floor
typically consists of a
Floor covering
plywood or oriented
strand board subfloor
atop 2 × 10 wood
Adhesive joists or engineered
trusses. A ¼" or
Underlayment ½" underlayment
is installed on top
of the subfloor. The
Subfloor floor covering may
be glued or nailed to
the underlayment.
Joist
Proof 1
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Evaluating an Existing Floor
The first step in preparing for rehabbing your it loose in spots? Is it chipped or cracked? Finally,
old wood floor or installing a new wood floor is note the height of the existing floor in relation to
evaluating the old floor. Evaluating your floor is a adjoining floor surfaces. Is it significantly higher than
three-step process. Begin by identifying the existing surrounding floors?
floor material and the installation method used. Often, a new engineered hardwood or laminate
Is your sheet vinyl attached using the full-spread floor can be installed on top of existing flooring. If the
method or the perimeter-bond method? Is your existing flooring is not sound or smooth, however,
carpet glued down or stretched? Is the existing you’ll need to do some preparation work. Avoid taking
hardwood solid or engineered? Next, assess the short cuts since this usually results in an inferior
condition of the floor. Is it securely attached or is final product.
Evaluating Existing Hardwood Floors
The condition of your floorboards is the primary follow dips and valleys and need to be leveled prior to
factor in deciding if refinishing is an option, if installation of new material.
the existing floor can serve as a substrate for a If your existing solid wood floor is fairly even and
new replacement floor, or if a complete tearout is fundamentally sound, you can resurface by sanding or
necessary before installing a replacement. chemically stripping the old finish. For uneven floors,
Look for signs of rot, especially around pipes, parquet floors, engineered flooring products, and
radiators, and windows. Replacing floorboards is floors that have already been resurfaced, chemically
hard work, but possible. Also check for dips or valleys, stripping the finish is the better option. Resurface
especially in high-traffic areas. Visually, uneven floors floors only if many scratches, gouges, and stains have
may not seem like a big problem, but they are next- affected the floorboards or if you want to stain the
to-impossible to sand because floor sanders do not floors a different color.
Older wood floors
may have years
of life left. Here
an accumulation
of wax and dirt is
easily removed
with mineral spirits,
revealing a beautiful
floor underneath.Proof 1
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Identify the type of flooring product. Standard ¾"-thick Look for signs of past resurfacing. Inexperienced floor
hardwood floorboards can withstand one or two resurfacing refinishers often remove much more wood than is necessary
projects with a drum sander, but some newer flooring when they power-sand a floor. Look near baseboards and
products can only be chemically stripped—they simply do not radiators for sanding ridges where the power sander could not
have enough wood to withstand resurfacing. Sanding parquet reach. If sanding ridges are visible, you probably do not have
flooring requires special sanders and is a job for professionals. enough wood remaining above the tongues in tongue-and-
Otherwise, it should be chemically stripped. groove floorboards to allow you to sand the floors again.
Proof 1 2C
Grooves begin to splinter when a tongue-and-groove floor Buckling in hardwood floors usually indicates water damage.
has been sanded too many times. A floor in this condition The subfloor should be inspected and repaired prior to any new
is a tripping and splinter hazard, but might be suitable flooring installation. If the subfloor can be inspected from below
underneath new flooring if relatively level. and is solid, buckled areas may be screwed down and a floating
or fastened floor attached if the result is smooth enough.
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Evaluating Other Floor Surfaces
Regardless of which hardwood product you are for installations using mechanical fasteners versus
installing, the manufacturer's instructions are the adhesives. The adhesives necessary will differ based
last word. Carefully read the requirements for your on the application surface. Also note that floor
chosen flooring (all are available online) and follow leveling compound might not be an acceptable leveler
them. Note that there are usually distinctions made for mechanically fastened floors.
High thresholds often indicate that several layers of flooring Loose vinyl or linoleum tiles may indicate widespread failure
have already been installed on top of one another. If you have of the adhesive. Use a wallboard knife to test tiles. If tiles can
several layers, it’s best to remove them before installing the be pried up easily in many different areas of the room, plan to
new wood floor. remove all of the flooring.
Air bubbles trapped under resilient sheet flooring indicate that Cracks in grout joints around ceramic tile are a sign that
the adhesive has failed. The old flooring must be removed movement of the floor covering has caused deterioration of theProof 1
before the new covering can be installed. adhesive layer. If more than 10% of the tiles are loose, remove
the old flooring. Evaluate the condition of the underlayment
(see page 27) to determine if it also must be removed.
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QUICK GUIDE TO EVALUATING AN EXISTING FLOOR
RESILIENT FLOORING UNDERLAYMENT & SUBFLOOR
Option 1: Your existing resilient floor can serve as the Underlayment must be smooth, solid, and level to
foundation for some new wood floor coverings, if the existing ensure a long-lasting flooring installation. If the existing
surface is relatively smooth and sound. Inspect the underlayment does not meet these standards, remove it
existing flooring for loose seams, tears, chips, air bubbles, and install new underlayment before you lay new flooring.
and other areas where the bond has failed. If these loose
Before installing new underlayment, inspect the subfloor
spots constitute less than 30% of the total area, you can
for chips, open knots, dips, and loose boards. Screw
remove the flooring at these spots and fill the voids with
down loose areas, and fill cracks and dips with floor-
floor-leveling compound. Then, apply embossing leveler to
leveling compound. Remove and replace any water-
the entire floor and let it dry before laying new flooring.
damaged areas.
Option 2: If the original resilient flooring is suspect, you
can install new underlayment over the old surface after
repairing obviously loose areas.
CARPET
Without exception, carpet must be removed before you
Option 3: If the existing surface is in very poor condition, install any new flooring. For traditional carpet, simply cut
the old resilient flooring should be removed entirely before the carpet into pieces, then remove the padding and the
you install new flooring. If the old flooring was glued down tackless strips. Remove glued-down cushion-back carpet
with full-bond adhesive, it’s usually easiest to remove both with a floor scraper using the same techniques as for
the flooring and underlayment at the same time (page 44). removing full-bond resilient sheet flooring (see page 41).
If the old underlayment is removed, you might need to
install new underlayment before laying the new wood floor.
CONCRETE
Moisture content and cleanliness of the concrete are
CERAMIC TILE critical factors for hardwood flooring over concrete. Install
Option 1: If the existing ceramic tile surface is relatively a proper subfloor, if required by the flooring manufacturer.
solid, engineered and floating wood floors can sometimes Engineered wood flooring can typically be installed over
be installed directly over the tile. Inspect tiles and joints concrete at grade level, and some engineered wood and
for cracks and loose pieces. Remove loose material and fill many laminates can be installed below grade level.
these areas with a floor-leveling compound.
Option 2: If more than 10% of the tiles are loose, remove all NOTE: Grade level is the level of the ground surrounding
of the old flooring before installing the new surface. If the the home. Basements, even walkouts, are considered
tiles don’t easily separate from the underlayment, it’s best below grade.
to remove the tile and the underlayment at the same time,
then install new underlayment.
HARDWOOD FLOORING
Option 1: If you’re installing a floating floor, you might be
able to lay it directly over an existing nailed or glued-down
hardwood floor, or you may have to install underlayment.
Inspect the flooring and secure any loose areas to the
subfloor with spiral-shanked flooring nails or screws, then
remove any rotted or buckled wood and fill the voids with
plywood of the same height.
Option 2: Some engineered or laminate planks require new
underlayment over the existing nailed hardwood planks or
glued-down hardwood flooring before installation. Run new
floorboards in a different direction than current boards by
installing them diagonally or perpendicular to the existing floor. Determining the number and type of coverings already
on your floor is an important first step in evaluating its
Option 3: If the existing floor is a “floating” wood or condition. Removing this air vent revealed the hardwood
laminate surface with a foam-pad underlayment, remove
Proof 1
tongue-and-groove flooring under the sheet flooring.
it completely before laying any type of new wood or Unfortunately, installation of the underlayment has probably
laminate flooring. caused irreparable damage to the hardwood floor.
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Floor Selection & Design
H ardwood flooring is a favorite with homeowners
for good reason. The exceptional variety of
wood species available means that you can find a
look to match just about any decor. The material
itself is durable, natural, and extremely long lasting.
Wood floors are comfortable underfoot, relatively
easy to install, and competitive in price with stone
or ceramic tile. Plus, you can choose from a wealth
of wood finish colors and patinas for a customized
appearance. With the advent of engineered
hardwood flooring, the beauty of hardwood floors
can be used in even more areas. In this book
laminate flooring has been included even though
it is not technically wood. Because it is installed in
a similar manner, and actually is indistinguishable
from wood in many instances, we have chosen to Different tree species have different grain patterns. Hickory
include it here. heartwood and sapwood are distinctly different colors.
Hardwood Flooring
The first concept to understand about hardwood Solid wood flooring is usually ¾-inch thick and is
flooring is that it is either solid or engineered. Both are installed with nails or staples over a wood subfloor.
made of wood. Solid wood is simply a board that has Some manufacturers produce a 5⁄16-inch thin-profile
been cut into strips or planks and milled with tongues solid wood that can be glued down. Traditionally, solid
and grooves. Engineered hardwood is a thick layer wood flooring was red or white oak or maple sold in
of veneer glued to a substrate of plywood. It also has 2¼-inch strips. Now the trend is toward wider planks,
tongues and grooves milled into the sides and ends. up to 6-inches in width and available in many species.
THE FOREST STEWARDSHIP COUNCIL
The Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) is an international nonprofit group
that certifies forests and wood products based on established standards
of responsible forest management. Products bearing the FSC stamp
have been monitored by third-party officials from the raw material stage
in the forest through processing, manufacturing, and distribution asProof 1 2C
part of their “chain of custody” standards. FSC certification is the best
way to ensure that wood products and materials come from sustainable,
renewable sources, just like all wood should. For more information,
visit www.fsc.org.
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Engineered hardwood is usually 3⁄8-inch thick, but Quality applies to the number of manufacturing
it is available in many other thicknesses, including defects such as milling burns or other machining
¾-inch. The visible veneer layer, which ranges in issues. The price differences for engineered
thickness, is glued to a plywood layer. The wood plies hardwoods are based on the thickness of the overall
are glued with the grains running perpendicular. This board, the thickness of the veneer, and the quality of
creates a dimensionally stable product. That means the materials used to make the plywood.
that engineered wood does not expand or contract
much when exposed to fluctuating temperatures or
humidity compared to solid wood. Since its expansion WOOD FLOORING GRADES
and contraction is limited, engineered hardwood Milled wood for flooring is graded by its appearance and
can be installed using glue over any hard surface, average board length. The higher the grade, the less
including concrete, and can be installed in basements waste occurs during installation due to board length and
and over in-floor radiant heating. Or, like solid wood, culling of unsuitable pieces.
engineered hardwood can be installed with nails
Clear grade is uniform in color and grain appearance,
or staples.
usually heartwood.
The price differences between solid and
engineered hardwoods may be negligible or Select grade has some variation in color and may
substantial. Price differences within the categories include small knots, wormholes, or mineral streaks, a
might have greater range. Pricing is based on many mix of heartwood and sapwood.
factors. Solid hardwoods are available in different Number 1 Common can be varied in color and has larger
grades and qualities. The grade of the wood refers allowable knots than Select.
to the uniformity of appearance in terms of grain Number 2 Common may have prominent color variation
and color and the length of board in addition to the and many character traits like wormholes and knots.
number of defects such as burls, knots, or wormholes.
This maple floor is common #3 grade, which means numerous The same species can look very different with a little
variations in color and the inclusion of knots and other character staining. This is a maple floor with one board stained to
features. While it might not be suitable for a formal dining room, highlight the border pattern. Also notice that the floor field
this floor is perfect for a children's play area or den. is diagonal.
SUPER CHEAP SOLID WOOD?
Proof 1 2C
You might see solid wood tongue-and-groove shop grade or odd lots flooring selling for 99 cents a square foot. But it isn’t
necessarily the deal you think it is. These lots are factory seconds made up of 6"- to 12"-long defective pieces that have
been cut out of boards during the inspection process. If you are looking for a highly distressed solid wood floor, this might
just be for you, but estimate at least 20% waste when purchasing because some of the pieces will be unusable.
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EXOTIC WOODS
Availability of wood species varies regionally, but most
common North American hardwoods are used in the
manufacture of flooring. Stock options typically are limited
to oak and maple, with cherry, ash, mahogany, walnut, and
several other species easily obtained through special order.
These North American woods give you plenty of choices for
your floor, but even more stunning options are available if
you’re willing to spend a bit more. Imported exotic species
bring with them distinctive and stunning patterns and
colors. A sampling includes:
Ipé. (Brazil) The Brazilian walnut tree yields boards with
grain patterns ranging from regular to very irregular, and an
attractive reddish-brown color.
Wenge. (Africa) A naturally deep, dark brown—almost
black—wood, wenge has long been used for fine
wood furnishings. The alluring grain structure appears
Patagonian Rosewood. (Chile) A distinctive option,
prominently, and the wood is at its most showy cut in
Rosewood has dark tan colors that lighten over time, and
wider planks.
features bold striping throughout the grain that adds an
interesting undertone to the natural luster of the wood.
Tigerwood. (South America) A lighter wood, Tigerwood
has a unique, extremely irregular, and interlockingProof 1 2C
grain structure from which it gets its name. The color
Cumaru. (Brazil) A coarse, wavy grain and a reddish tan generally varies from deep golden brown to almost blonde.
color that fades over time into an unusual maroon, make Tigerwood is best placed in an open, well-lit space, with
this wood an interesting choice. Also called Brazilian Teak. large uncovered areas showing off the eye-catching grain.
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WOOD HARDNESS SCALE
The Janka scale is used to show the relative hardness,
or resistance to impact or wear, of different wood
species. In flooring, the benchmark species is northern
red oak at 1290, because so many floors are made
from this species. The larger the number, the harder the
wood. Very hard woods may require drilling pilot holes
before driving facenails. Here are some Janka numbers
for common and exotic woods used in flooring.
Ipé 3680
Brazilian Teak (Cumaru) 3540
Mesquite 2345
Hickory 1820
Wenge 1620
Hard Maple 1450
Red Oak 1290
Ipé scores highest on the Janka hardness scale, but it is a
Walnut 1010
very dense, tropical wood with a high saturation of natural
Southern Pine 690–870 oil, so it does not stain well. It is used almost exclusively for
exterior decks.
FLOORING THICKNESS
One reason to choose engineered flooring is the finished height of the floor. The 3⁄8" common thickness of engineered
flooring might better match up with existing flooring at transition points. Or, if you are installing flooring over an existing
floor, the thinner engineered floor is easier to install under existing fixtures.
Laminate Flooring
Laminate flooring has become popular in recent years water resistant, making them good alternatives to
because it is easy to install and relatively inexpensive. solid wood floors in moisture-prone areas, such as
Sold in strips or small panels that look like strips, it is below-grade basements and bathrooms.
constructed of a base layer of wood or paper product Laminate flooring is rated by durability using
to which is bonded a photographic pattern layer that an Abrasion Criteria (AC) rating. The AC rating
replicates wood floor coverings. It is sold prefinished levels are AC1 through AC5. AC1 through AC3 are
with a clear, protective wear-layer of highly durable designations for residential applications, while
aluminum oxide. AC4 and AC5 are for commercial applications. AC1
Although some laminate flooring is installed by floors are recommended for areas such as closets,
edge-gluing, nearly all product sold today is put down bedrooms, or guest rooms that receive moderate use.
as a floating floor with click-together joints that have AC2 floors are recommended for general traffic levels,
a positive locking action, requiring no fasteners or such as living or dining rooms. AC3 products are for
adhesives (although in many cases, a perimeter bond heavily trafficked areas such as entryways, kitchens,
is recommended). Grain patterns and coloring are and playrooms. The commercial products are not
available in a nearly infinite number of variations. recommended for home use as they tend to have a
Proof 1
You can choose a uniform look, making a completed rough surface texture that might be uncomfortable
laminate floor unchallenging for the eye or choose a on bare feet. As could be expected, the higher the
visually intriguing look. Many types of laminates are criteria, the higher the price.
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Design Elements
When considering wood flooring, weigh the same more cozy. Parquetry is a method of flooring using
design aspects of any other flooring. Pattern, size of smaller pieces of wood to create patterns. Parquet
elements, finish, texture, and color are all aspects flooring can be solid wood laid in a pattern, like
to consider. herringbone, or wood strips glued onto plywood
squares that are installed with adhesive-like tile. Any
Pattern solid wood or engineered wood strips or planks can
For the most part, wood and laminate flooring have be installed in patterns. Parquet tiles are available in
a linear pattern. Using this pattern in different ways everything from the standard four small squares per
can make small rooms look larger and large rooms tile to intricate geometric designs and wavy flowing
The herringbone
pattern has been
around since
the beginning
of decorative
flooring. The
pattern can be
created with
any strip or
plank flooring.Proof 1
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patterns. Bold patterns create a focal point and most homes the strip floor in oak or maple was the
act as exclamation points. Bold floor patterns may most available style during building booms, and
limit choices for the rest of the room’s design. A big therefore the most affordable. Now builders
plus for patterns is that they are good at hiding dirt and consumers are much more aware of using
and scratches. flooring as a design element, and manufacturers
have responded with hundreds of options. You can
Size of Elements find planks up to 12 inches wide. Wide planks used
Part of the linear pattern is the width of the board. to be only available in pine, but with engineered
Strip flooring has a width of 3 inches or less. More planks, any species can be used. Wide planks lend
than 3 inches wide and the board is called a plank. an informal yet distinctive look to a room. Many
Strip flooring has been the long-standing standard manufacturers also sell planks bundled in varied
for formal floors and informal floors alike. Wealthy widths of 3, 5, and 7 inches. The varied widths create
consumers may have chosen other options, but for another layer of informality.
Proof 1
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Finish rustic and add great appeal and a casual feel to any
The finish applied to a hardwood floor also affects the room from the kitchen or den to bedroom. Textures
feel of a room. With modern urethane finishes, you are available on wide planks in most species, but
can choose high gloss or low gloss without worrying look especially nice with wood species that have
about durability. A less shiny, low gloss floor is less prominent grain patterns. Modern looks demand
likely to show the small scratches that accumulate smooth, sleek textures. To achieve a contemporary
over the lifetime of a floor. Perhaps the best news in look, choose woods with fine dense grain patterns like
do-it-yourself hardwood flooring is that all styles are clear maple.
now available prefinished. This means you can install
your floor and it’s done! The greatest value of a factory Color
finish besides no muss and fuss is that these products In combination with texture and element size, color
carry extended wear guarantees. This is possible really amps up the design possibilities of wood
because the factory finish is applied under controlled flooring. The rustic, casual textured floor looks
settings with techniques like ultraviolet light curing very different when stained a dark mocha versus a
that cannot be duplicated in a home setting. whitewashed gray. A smooth floor will also create
a different feel with darker or lighter colors. Muted
Texture colors won’t compete for attention with other design
Another aspect of the finish is the texture. Hand- elements in a room. Bold colors will draw attention to
scraped hardwoods and whipsawn planks have the floor itself, and make it much more a component
incredible individual surfaces. These styles are in the overall scheme.Proof 1 2C
Prefinished flooring has several advantages over unfinished. Ease, convenience, and a lack of mess are certainly among them.
But it also tends to be more durable and the finish (usually aluminum oxide or lacquer) is smooth and even. On the downside,
you are limited in colors and sheens.
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How to Measure Your Room
Before ordering your wood floor, determine the total Divide that number by 144 to determine the square
square footage of your room. To do this, divide the footage. Add all of the areas together to figure the
room into a series of squares and rectangles that you square footage for the entire room.
can easily measure. Be sure to include all areas that When ordering your flooring, be sure to purchase
will be covered, such as closets and space under your 10 to 15% extra to allow for waste and cutting. For
refrigerator and other movable appliances. patterned flooring, you may need as much as 20%
Measure the length and width of each area in extra. Manufacturer’s instructions will give additional
inches, then multiply the length times the width. information on sizing.
W
W
L
L
W
L
Divide the room into rectangles or squares. Include closets and areas where movable appliances are installed. Measure the
length and width of each area in inches, then multiply the length times the width. Divide that number by 144 to determine the
square footage.
L-shaped floors, hallways, and
other non-square-shaped rooms
will complicate measuring, but it is
easily solved with a quick sketch.
NOTE: Most wood floor products are
sold in full cartons containing from
12 to 27 sq. ft. of flooring. It’s
generally a good idea to round up
when ordering.
Proof 1
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Proof 1
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Preparing
for a Wood
Floor Project
Y ou have evaluated your existing floors, chosen a
design plan, and ordered your hardwood flooring
or laminate. Now you are ready to do the preparation
to get the space ready for flooring installation.
Before your new floor goes in, your old floor
will probably need to be taken out and the
subfloor will need to be carefully prepared for a
finished surface. Don’t assume that imperfections in
the subfloor are okay because it will be covered. Some
floor finishes may actually accentuate underlying
issues. Remember that project preparation is just
as important as installing your floor covering and
requires the same attention to detail.
Removing old floors, installing new subfloors
or underlayments, and filling in cracks and joints
isn’t the most glamorous job in the world, but it’s
an investment that will reap big rewards when your
flooring project is complete.
If your new floor is part of a larger home
improvement project, removing the existing floor
should be one of the first steps in the overall project,
while installing the new floor is one of the last. All
other demolition and construction should be finished
in the room before the floor is installed to avoid
damaging the new surface.
In this chapter:
• Floor Covering Removal
• Underlayment Removal
• Subfloor Repair
• Installing Raised Subfloor Panels
Proof 1
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TOOLS YOU MAY NEED
Floor scraper
Utility knife
Spray bottle
Wallboard knife
Floor Covering Removal Wet/dry vacuum
Heat gun
Hand maul
W hen old floor coverings must be removed, as is the case with many Masonry chisel
projects, thorough and careful removal work is essential to the Flat pry bar
quality of the new flooring installation. Scrap wood
The difficulty of flooring removal depends on the type of floor Tape measure
covering and the method that was used to install it. Carpet and
Stapler
perimeter-bond vinyl are generally very easy to remove, and removing
vinyl tiles is also relatively simple. Full-spread sheet vinyl can be Scissors
difficult to remove, however, and removing ceramic tile can be a lot Eye, ear, and respiratory protection
of work. End-cutting nippers
With any removal project, be sure to keep your tool blades sharp, Liquid dishwashing detergent
and take care not to damage the underlayment if you plan to reuse it. If
Belt sander (optional)
you’ll be replacing the underlayment, it may be easier to remove the old
underlayment along with the floor covering. Sheet plastic
Use a floor scraper to remove resilient floor coverings and to scrape Masking tape
off leftover adhesives or backings. The long handle provides leverage and Screwdriver
force, and it allows you to work in a comfortable standing position. A Box fan
scraper will remove most of the flooring, but you may need other tools to Work gloves
finish the job.
Dust and Debris ContainmentProof 1
Cover entryways with sheet plastic to contain dust and debris Cover heat and air vents with sheet plastic and masking tape
while you remove the old floor. to prevent dust and debris from entering ductwork.
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ASBESTOS AND FLOORING
Resilient flooring manufactured before 1980 may contain asbestos, which can cause severe lung problems if inhaled. The
easiest method for dealing with asbestos-containing flooring is to cover it with a new floor covering. If the asbestos flooring
must be removed, consult an asbestos-abatement professional or ask a local building inspector to explain the asbestos
handling and disposal regulations in your area.
Tools for Floor Covering Removal
A
B
C
G F D
J
I
E
H
K
L P
O
R
M N
S
Q
T
Hand tools for flooring removal and surface preparation include: jamb saw (A), putty knife (B), floor roller (C), hammer (D),
Proof 1
hand maul (E), flat-edged trowel (F), notched trowel (G), stapler (H), cat’s paw (I), flat pry bar (J), masonry chisel (K), crowbar
(L), nippers (M), wallboard knife (N), wood chisel (O), long-handled floor scraper (P), utility knife (Q), Phillips screwdriver (R),
standard screwdriver (S), and carpenter’s level (T).
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How to Remove Baseboards
Cut the paint
away from the
baseboard with a 1
utility knife.
Remove the
baseboard using
a pry bar placed 2
against a scrap
board. Pry the
baseboard at all
nail locations.
Number the
baseboards as
they are removed.
Remove the nails
by pulling them
through the back 3
of the baseboard
with nippers
or pliers.Proof 1
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How to Remove Sheet Flooring
1 2
Use a utility knife to cut the old flooring into strips about a foot Pull up as much flooring as possible by hand. Grip the strips
wide to make removal easier. close to the floor to minimize tearing.
3 4
Cut stubborn sheet vinyl into strips about 6" wide. Starting Scrape up the remaining sheet vinyl and backing with a floor
at a wall, peel up as much of the floor covering as possible. scraper. If necessary, spray the backing with the soap solution
If the felt backing remains, spray a solution of water and to loosen it. Sweep up the debris, then finish the cleanup
liquid dishwashing detergent under the surface layer to help using a wet/dry vacuum.
Proof 1
separate the backing. Use a wallboard knife to scrape up
particularly stubborn patches. TIP: Add about an inch of water to the vacuum container to
help control dust.
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How to Remove Resilient Tile
1 2
Starting at a loose seam, use a long-handled floor scraper to Remove stubborn adhesive or backing by wetting the floor with
remove tiles. To remove stubborn tiles, soften the adhesive a mixture of water and liquid dishwashing detergent, then
with a heat gun, then use a wallboard knife to pry up the tile scrape it with a floor scraper.
and scrape off the underlying adhesive.
How to Remove Ceramic Floor Tile
1 2
Knock out tile using a hand maul and masonry chisel. If If you plan to reuse the underlayment, use a long-handled floorProof 1
possible, start in a space between tiles where the grout has scraper to remove any remaining adhesive. You may have
loosened. Be careful when working around fragile fixtures, to use a belt sander with a coarse sanding belt to grind off
such as drain flanges, to prevent damage. stubborn adhesive.
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How to Remove Carpet
Use a utility knife to cut around
metal threshold strips to free the
carpet. Remove the threshold
strips with a flat pry bar.
1
2
Cut the carpet into pieces small enough to be easily removed.
If you will be refinishing the underlying hardwood floor, take
care not to cut too deeply. Roll up the carpet and remove it
from the room, then remove the padding.
NOTE: Padding is often stapled to the floor and usually
comes up in pieces as you roll it.
4 VARIATION: To remove glued-down
carpet, cut it into strips with a
utility knife, then pull up as much
material as you can. Scrape up the
remaining cushion material and
adhesive with a floor scraper.
3
Use end-cutting nippers or pliers to Remove tackless strips immediately from
remove all of the staples from the floor. the perimeter of the room. Pry them
Proof 1
Run your bare hand over the surface to loose with a pry bar. Always wear gloves
find any partial staples that might not when handling tackless strips.
be visible.
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Underlayment Removal WARNING
This floor removal method
releases flooring particles into
F looring contractors routinely remove the underlayment along with
the floor covering before installing new flooring. This saves time and
makes it possible to install new underlayment that’s ideally suited to the
the air. Be sure the flooring you
are removing does not contain
asbestos. See Asbestos &
new flooring. Do-it-yourselfers using this technique should make sure to Flooring, page 39.
cut the flooring into pieces that can be easily handled.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Gloves Reciprocating saw Dust mask
Circular saw with carbide-tipped blade Wood chisel Eye and ear protection
Flat pry bar Hammer Work gloves
Mallet
REMOVAL TIP
Examine fasteners to see how the underlayment is
attached. Use a screwdriver to expose the heads of
the fasteners. If the underlayment has been screwed
down, you’ll need to remove the floor covering and thenProof 1
unscrew the underlayment. If the underlayment has
been nailed, you can pry it up without separating the Remove the underlayment and floor covering as though they’re
floor covering. a single layer. This is an effective removal strategy with any
floor covering that’s bonded to the underlayment.
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How to Remove Underlayment
1 2
Adjust the cutting depth of a circular saw to equal the Use a reciprocating saw to extend the cuts to the edges of
combined thickness of your floor covering and underlayment. the walls. Hold the blade at a slight angle to the floor and be
Using a carbide-tipped blade, cut the floor covering and careful not to damage walls or cabinets. Don’t cut deeper
underlayment into squares measuring about 3' square. Be than the underlayment. Use a wood chisel to complete cuts
sure to wear safety goggles and gloves. near cabinets.
3
VARIATION: If your existing floor is ceramic tile over
plywood underlayment, use a hand maul and masonry
chisel to chip away the tile along the cutting lines before
Separate the underlayment from the subfloor using a flat making cuts. Protect your saw guard with masking
pry bar and hammer. Remove and discard the sections of tape and use a cement cutting blade. Using a vacuum
Proof 1
underlayment and floor covering immediately, watching for attached to the dust port will help moderate the dust
exposed nails. If underlayment is attached to the subfloor with created by this method.
screws, see Tip, page 44.
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Subfloor Repair TOOLS & MATERIALS
Flat-edged trowel Tape measure
Drywall knife Deck screws (1", 2")
A solid, securely fastened subfloor minimizes
floor movement and squeaks. It also prevents
deflection, or vertical movement, which is
Straightedge
Framing square
Carpenter’s level
Plywood or underlayment
detrimental to most wood floor installations. Drill 2 × 4 lumber
After removing the old underlayment, inspect
Circular saw 10d common nails
the subfloor for loose fasteners, moisture damage,
cracks, and other flaws. If your subfloor is made of Cat’s paw Power sander
dimension lumber rather than plywood, you can use Wood chisel Floor patching compound
plywood to patch damaged sections. If the plywood Hammer Protective gloves
patch doesn’t reach the height of the subfloor, add Floor leveler Eye and ear protection
layers of thinner material or use floor leveler or
building paper to raise the surface so it is even with
the surrounding area. Always check the specification on both subfloors
Floor leveler is used to fill in dips and low spots and underlayment for your chosen wood floor.
in plywood subfloors. Mix the leveler according Some wood floors only require a subfloor, but others
to directions from the manufacturer, adding a require subfloor and underlayment. A successful
latex or acrylic bonding agent for added flexibility, wood floor installation depends on the proper
if specified. structure underneath.
How to Replace a Section of Subfloor
1 2 3
Use a framing square to mark a rectangle Remove the damaged section, then nail Measure the cut-out section, then cut
around the damage, making sure two two 2 × 4 blocks between the joists, a patch to fit. Use material that’s the
sides of the rectangle are centered over centered under the cut edges for added same thickness as the original subfloor.
floor joists. Remove nails along the lines support. If possible, nail the blocks from Fasten the patch to the joists and
using a cat’s paw. Make the cuts using a below. Otherwise, toenail them from blocks using 2" deck screws spacedProof 1
circular saw adjusted so the blade cuts above using 10d nails. about 5" apart.
through the subfloor only. Use a jigsaw
or a chisel to complete cuts.
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How to Apply Floor Leveler
1 2
Mix the leveler according to the manufacturer’s directions, Use a straightedge to make sure the filled area is level with
then spread it onto the subfloor using a trowel. Build up the the surrounding area. If necessary, apply more leveler. Allow
leveler in thin layers to avoid overfilling the area, allowing each the leveler to dry, then shave off any ridges with the edge of a
layer to dry before applying the next. trowel, or sand it smooth.
How to Install Plywood Underlayment
Continue fastening sheets of plywood to
the subfloor, driving the screw heads
1 slightly below the underlayment surface. 3
Leave ¼" expansion gaps at the walls
and between sheets. Offset seams in
subsequent rows.
2
Install a piece of plywood underlayment
along the longest wall, making sure the
underlayment seams are not aligned
with the subfloor seams. Fasten the Mix floor-patching compound and
plywood to the subfloor using 1" deck latex or acrylic additive following the
Proof 1
screws driven every 6" along the manufacturer’s directions. Spread it
edges and at 8" intervals in the field of over seams and screw heads using a
the sheet. drywall knife.
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Installing Raised Subfloor Panels
R aised subfloor panels are an excellent choice
as a base layer when installing wood or
laminate floors over concrete slabs, such as in a
otherwise water-secure basement, but a basement
that frequently has puddled water must be corrected
in a more aggressive way before flooring can be laid
basement. The raised panels do an even better job over the slab.
of protecting against moisture than simple plastic The raised subfloor panels fit together securely
vapor barriers. Raised panels are designed with three with simple tongue-and-groove edges, and for best
layers: a surface layer of wood wafer board or MDF, results the concrete slab must first be examined
a waterproof membrane later, and a honeycombed for dips or cracks, and leveled out before laying the
plastic pedestal layer that raises the entire flooring subfloor panels.
slightly off the slab, allowing air circulation beneath.
The result is a subfloor that is largely immune to
the nagging mildew problems that can plague TOOLS & MATERIALS
flooring materials laid directly on a concrete slab
in a basement. As an added benefit, the panels also Long board Leveling shims
increase the insulation value of the floor, making a Floor leveler and trowel Tapping block and pull bar
basement considerably cozier. In fact, a variation (if needed) Hammer
is available that increases the R-value of the floor Tape measure
even more. ¼" wall spacers
Do not expect a raised subfloor to eliminate Circular saw Particle mask
problems in a basement with severe water problems, Jigsaw Eye and ear protection
however. The system works very well for combatting Carpenter’s square Work gloves
the normal moisture that is always present in an
A raised subfloor system for a laminate
floor in cross section: three-ply DRIcore
panel (A) including raised pedestal layer,
waterproofing layer, and wood waferboard
layer; foam underlayment (B); subloor (C);
D
laminate flooring (D).
C
B
AProof 1
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How to Install Raised Subfloor Panels over a Concrete Slab
1
OPTION: Following the manufacturer’s instructions, mix the
floor leveler with water. The batch should be large enough Clean the concrete floor and install temporary ¼" spacers
to cover the entire floor area to the desired thickness (up along all walls.
to 1"). Pour the leveler over the floor.
2
3
Starting with the longest wall, measure the length of the wall, Check the first corner for square, using a carpenter’s square.
and calculate the number of panels needed by dividing this If it is not square, the first panel will need to be angled in the
Proof 1
length by the width of the panel (most products are 2 × 2'). If back corner to ensure the first row will fit flush against the
necessary, trim the starting panel to ensure that the last panel wall along its entire length.
in the first row will be at least 3" in width. (continued)
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Lay the first panel
with the tongue
side flat against 4
the wall spacers.
Slide the next
panel into place
by connecting
its tongue into
the groove of the
preceding panel.
Using a tapping
block, snug up
the tongue-and-
groove joint.
For the last panel
in the first row,
measure the gap 5
between the last
installed panel
and the wall
spacer, and cut
the last panel to
this measurement.
Install by inserting
the tongue of the
cut panel into
the groove of the
preceding panel,
and levering it
down into place.
Pull it into place
so the joint is
secure using a
pull bar.
Before beginning
the second row,
check the first 6
row for flatness,
and if there are
any areas with
“give” or bounce,
adjust them with
leveling shims
inserted under
the panels.Proof 1
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As you start the
second row,
7 cut the first
panel in half, so
that seams will
be staggered
between rows.
Begin with the
half panel, and
install the second
row as you did the
first, sliding
the tongues
into the grooves
of the preceding
row, and snugging
them up with the
tapping block.
Install the
subsequent rows,
8 so that the first
panels alternate,
with odd number
rows matching
the pattern of the
first row, even
numbered rows
matching the
pattern of
the second row.
At the last row,
trim the wall side
9 of the panels
to fit the space
between the
previous row and
the wall spacers,
and snug up their
joints with the
pull bar. Remove
all spacers.
Proof 1
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Spread flooring strips or planks outProof 1
in the installation area and let them
acclimate for a day before installation.
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WOOD FLOOR
INSTALLATION
H ow you install a wood floor depends, of course, on the materials you are using. Some
wood floors may be nailed or stapled in place, glued in place, or locked in place with
engineered pieces that click together. Whatever the installation technique, many common
aspects apply to almost every wood floor.
Installation Techniques introduces the tools you need to complete any of the installation
projects that follow. Though many flooring tools are common to any carpentry job, there are
a few specialty tools that make completing your project easier. These are clearly identified so
you can easily find or rent them.
Very few rooms exist as simply a square box perfectly sized to flooring materials, so
knowing how to cut various types of wood flooring is critical. Also important is how to deal
with protrusions into the installation area—such as fireplace aprons, doorways, radiators
and vents, and thresholds. Your floor will probably transition to another room with a
different floor, so creating an attractive connection is important. In some cases you may
have moved or removed a wall or door and now have to patch the area. A number of options
for accomplishing this are shown.
The four wood flooring installation projects presented here cover most of the types of
hardwood installations. Here you will find complete step-by-step photo how-to instructions
for installing a hardwood plank floor with nails or staples, a fully bonded wood strip floor,
and a bamboo strip floor. The so-called floating floors, because they are not fully attached to
the subsurface, are also covered in detail.
Special Floor Projects has a number of projects designed to give you a truly unique floor.
How to install parquet tiles, decorative medallions, and end grain flooring is covered. In
addition, how to use salvaged lumber and salvaged flooring to create a distinctive old new
floor is presented. You can learn how to make your own tongue-and-groove flooring from
reclaimed planks, tips for reusing salvaged floorboards, and how to create a one-of-a-kind
end grain floor.
Finally, remember that flooring manufacturers have created specific installation directions
for all of their products. Regardless of what you read here, those installation directions
are your number one source of information for your specific product. Make certain that
Proof 1
you read their recommendations on fasteners or adhesives and subfloor or underlayment
requirements. Remember, a well-installed modern wood floor can last a lifetime. Take the
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Proof 1
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Installation
Techniques
U sing the proper techniques helps you create the
most beautiful floor.
All wood flooring must be acclimated to the space
before it is installed. This allows the flooring to come
to the same moisture content as the subfloor and
surrounding structures. Because wood expands and
contracts with temperature and humidity, the flooring
being installed must be at the same level as the
surrounding materials or problems will arise.
Flooring is always installed with a gap between it
and the surrounding walls (except on staircases). The
gap is then covered with base molding. The gap is
necessary due to the expansion and contraction of the
walls and floors. To maintain even gaps it is helpful to
create a number of 3⁄8- to ½-inch-thick shims to place
along the walls prior to installation or drive a row of
nails 3⁄8 to ½ inch from the walls.
When laying out strip, plank, or laminate flooring,
loosely dry fit a run of flooring 2 or 3 feet wide. Offset
board ends by at least 6 inches (preferably more). If
using solid wood, check each piece for splits or bark
inclusions. Cut out the imperfections and use these
shorter pieces around the room edges.
Whether you are installing by nailing or gluing, all
wood flooring relies on a tongue-and-groove system
to stabilize the joints between each piece. In some
instances you will need to cut tongues or grooves
off, join two grooved sides with a spline, or use glue
to stabilize a transition that does not have tongue
or groove.
In this chapter:
• Transitions for Hardwood Floors
• Wood Floor Installation Tips
Proof 1
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Cutting Hardwood Floors
Rip-cut hardwood planks from the back side to avoid When rip-cutting hardwood flooring with a circular saw, place
splintering the top surface. Measure the distance from the another piece of flooring next to the one marked for cutting
wall to the edge of the last board installed, subtracting ½" to to provide a stable surface for the foot of the saw. Clamp a
allow for an expansion gap. Transfer the measurement to the cutting guide to the planks to ensure a straight cut.
back of the flooring, and mark the cut with a chalk line.Proof 1
Crosscut hardwood flooring using a power miter saw. Place the Make notched or curved cuts in hardwood flooring with a coping
top surface face up to prevent splintering. saw or jigsaw. If using a jigsaw, the finished surface should face
down. Clamp the flooring to your work surface when cutting.
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Tools for Installing Hardwood Floors
Power tools for
hardwood flooring
A
installation
include:
miter saw (A),
circular saw (B),
jigsaw (C),
pneumatic
flooring nailer
and flooring
hammer (D),
cordless drill (E).
D
E
C
B
C
B
D
A
H
G
I
E
F
J
K
L M
Proof 1
Hand tools for hardwood flooring installation include: floor roller (A), notched trowel (B), framing square (C), stapler (D),
tape measure (E), hammer (F), chalk line (G), nail set (H), rubber mallet (I), floor pull bar (J), putty knife (K), utility knife (L),
caulk gun (M).
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Transitions for Hardwood Floors
A t some point your wood floor will abut another
flooring surface, a staircase, or a protrusion
like a fireplace apron. Flooring manufacturers
When you install wood or laminate floors, the
expansion gap between the perimeter of the floor and
the walls needs to be covered with baseboards. If the
make a variety of transitions that match their existing baseboard is the basic ranch style, you may
products in composition and appearance for a want to upgrade to a combination baseboard and
flawless match. shoe molding.
Wood flooring transition to tucked under
carpet can be created by ripping a
board to the necessary width, with the
appropriate tongue or groove to mesh
with the floor. Facenail to install.
T-moldings are available in several
widths for wood floors and can be
stained to match. Matching T-moldings
are available for all laminate floors.
T-moldings may be required for some
floors at doorways to act as expansion
joints. Fasten through the leg of the
T. Some T-moldings require fastening
a metal fixture to the subfloor. The
T-molding then snaps into the fixture.Proof 1
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T-molding can be used to join any types of hard flooring so long Height-reducing thresholds are used to transition between two
as they are of equal height. Never use T-molding with carpet. floors of differing heights.
THRESHOLDS AND MOLDINGS
A. Carpet reducers are used to finish off and create
a smooth transition between hard flooring
and carpeting.
B. Stair nosing is used to cover the exposed edges
of stairs where the risers meet the steps. It is also
used between step-downs and landings.
C. Baby threshold is used in place of baseboards and
quarter round in front of sliding glass doors or
door thresholds, to fill the gap between the floor
and door.
D. Reducer strips, also called transition strips,
are used between rooms when the floors are
at different heights and are composed of
different materials.
E. Overlap reducers are also used between rooms
when one floor is at a different height than an
adjoining room.
F. T-moldings are used to connect two floors of
equal height. They are also used in doorways
and thresholds to provide a smooth transition.
T-moldings do not butt up against the flooring,
allowing the wood to expand and contract under it.
G. Baseboards are used for almost all types of floors
and are available in a wide variety of designs and
thicknesses. They are applied at the bottom of walls
to cover the gap between the floor and walls.
H. Quarter round, similar to shoe molding, is installed
along the bottom edge of baseboard and sits on top
Proof 1
of the floor. It covers any remaining gaps between
the floor and walls.
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Options for Filling in Beneath a Removed Wall
Option 1
You may have a flooring gap after a
remodeling project that removes a
wall, or you may want to interweave
a new wood floor into a matching
older floor.
Using the techniques outlined in How to Replace a Full Hardwood
Plank (page 145) remove the lengths of boards that abut the
gap. If necessary, build up the subfloor in the patch area using
layers of plywood and building paper to achieve the proper
thickness. Install new boards as shown in the repair project.
Option 2 TIP
Fill gaps in floors with materials that have a contrasting color
and pattern. For wood floors, parquet tiles are an easy andProof 1
To enhance the effect, cut away a border strip around
inexpensive choice. You may need to widen the gap with a the room and fill these areas with the same contrasting
circular saw set to the depth of the wood covering to make flooring material.
room for the contrasting tiles.
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STAIRCASE TIPS
If you want to have your stairs match your new flooring, you certainly can. Installing wood strips or laminate on stairs is not
any more complicated than installing it on the flat floor. Here are a few tips:
• The horizontal part of the stair is called the tread and the vertical part is the riser. A closed staircase has walls on
both sides. An open staircase has one or both sides open. Most stairs are created with a subfloor of risers and treads
created either from 2× lumber or medium density fiberboard (MDF). If the subfloor treads have a nose, the nose will
have to be sawn off to accommodate the new treads and risers.
• You will create new treads and risers using either strip flooring, engineered planks, or laminate. All flooring
manufacturers make stair nosing to match their flooring products.
• Buy a stair width tool or stair tread jig. Inexpensive versions are available at major home improvement stores. This
tool allows you to take accurate measurements of closed stairs, including the angles, since it is unlikely the treads are
perfectly square.
• If the stairs were carpeted and have a nose, a protrusion on the tread that overhangs the riser, you need to saw off the
existing nose. Use a circular saw against a guide to saw off most of the nose. Finish the cuts with a reciprocating saw.
Sand off jagged edges if necessary.
• Install the risers first. Assemble strips or planks tall enough to be a riser. Use masking tape to hold them together. Use
the stair measuring tool to determine width and cut to size and measure each riser separately (they may all be slightly
different). Install all the risers first. Attach with high quality construction adhesive.
• On a closed stair, use the stair measuring tool to measure a tread width and cut a piece of nosing to fit. Dry fit the
nosing on the tread and measure from the back of the nosing to the riser to get the depth of wood needed to cover
the remaining tread. Cut to fit and dry fit all the pieces. Use masking tape to hold strips or planks together. Install with
construction adhesive. Use yellow wood glue on the edge of the stair nose where it abuts the rest of the tread wood.
Use a piece of 2 × 4 covered in carpet and a rubber mallet to set the pieces in the adhesive. Use a pneumatic nailer
to drive four to six finish nails through the nosing into the subfloor.
• On an open staircase, the nosing will continue around the sides of the stair. Miter cut the nosings at 45˚ to create an
attractive corner. Depending on the stair, you may need to cut a return for the back end of the side nosing.
Proof 1
On open staircases, miter the nosings at the corners.
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Wood Floor Installation Tips
P rofessional flooring installers
have years of experience with
various situations and materials. This
wood floor might be the only one
you install, so here are a few tips to
increase your success.
Older subfloors were made of
1 × 6, 1 × 8, or even 1 × 10 planks
typically installed diagonally across
the joists. If your subfloor is planks,
check that they are all firmly affixed
to the joists. If not, attach them using
ring-shank nails.
The long direction of your
new flooring strips must run
perpendicular to the floor joists. If
your subfloor is plywood or oriented
strandboard (OSB), you can install the
flooring strips in whichever direction
you choose, though in some cases you
Tongues and grooves are there for a reason. Uncut tongue-and-groove flooring
may need to add an additional layer has tongues and grooves across the ends as well as along the sides. If you
of underlayment before beginning remove the tongue across an end, that end should be facenailed. Some
the installation. applications require gluing across the end tongues.
Start with a high-
quality subfloor.
A quality floor
installation starts with
a quality substrate.
Make sure you have
the appropriate
thickness subfloor
and underlayment
for the product being
used. Remove or fill
any imperfections in
the subfloor. Follow
manufacturer's
directions for using
leveler or shimming.Proof 1
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Lay out the room. Measure the width of the installation area Undercut door casing. New flooring should be installed
and determine how many strips or planks will fit. The flooring under door casings, not cut to fit around them. Use a
piece dimensions are measured across the face of the piece, piece of the new flooring, and underlayment if used, to
not including tongues. Lay out the floor so that the last piece determine the new flooring height. Use a flush cutting saw
at a transition or threshold is at least one half of the strip or to cut the case molding. Cut flooring to fit around doorjambs
plank width. Rip the initial strip to a width that will make the or frames.
last strip at least one half width.
Use the right tools. The professionals use floor nailers, and not Check moisture content. Tape 3' × 3' pieces of plastic over
just because they are faster. A floor nailer, whether manual various locations on a concrete floor to test for moisture
or pneumatic, drives the fastener at exactly the right angle levels. If condensation accumulates on the plastic during
and depth time after time. Take the time at the beginning of the testing period, follow the manufacturer’s recommended
your project to adjust the depth. If applying adhesives, use moisture-retarding techniques or install a raised subfloor.
the proper-sized trowel. Use the adhesive and the trowel size Use a moisture meter to check moisture content in
recommended by the flooring manufacturer. wood subfloors.
Clean concrete floors. Adhesives will not adhere to concrete Use expansion joints. Installation of some floors over large
if any dirt, oil, or paint splatter is present. Use a power areas (usually greater than 30' in any direction) may require
Proof 1
scrubber/buffer and the appropriate cleaner to clean an expansion joint. This joint allows the material to expand
the surface. without buckling. Some expansion joints may be covered with a
T-molding. Follow manufacturer’s instructions for joint width.
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Wood Floor
Installation
T he projects in this chapter cover the most
common installation techniques for hardwood
and laminate floors.
All hardwood and laminate floor products are
manufactured with tongue-and-groove joints.
Whether you fasten the boards down with nails
or glue, or whether the floor floats on a foam
underlayment, the tongues and grooves hold the
whole thing together.
Use the right tools and techniques, and you will
find that wood floor installation might be one of
the easiest and most rewarding home improvement
projects you have done.
In this chapter:
• Strip & Plank Floors
• Bonded Bamboo Strip Flooring
• Installing Laminate Flooring
Proof 1
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Jigsaw Hammer Eye and ear protection
Circular saw Pry bar Work gloves
Stapler Power nailer For bonded floor:
Utility knife Rosin paper Notched trowel
Strip & Plank Tape measure
Chalk line
Wood floor strips or planks
Nails or staples
Flooring adhesive
Wood glue
Floors Drill Reducer strip or transition strip Cardboard
Flooring pull bar Nail set Floor roller
Rubber mallet Wood putty
I nstalling tongue-and-groove
hardwood strips or planks
is straightforward. They can
be fastened with mechanical
fasteners such as nails or staples,
or they can be glued down or fully
bonded. Regardless of installation
methods, strips, planks, or
engineered planks must run
perpendicular to the joists unless
additional underlayment has been
installed. Be sure to measure and
cut boards at the appropriate
ends to ensure the tongue-and-
groove joints fit together for
end matches.
To fasten with mechanical
fasteners, the first and last boards
are facenailed, while the other
boards are blind-nailed through
the tongue. Once the first few rows
are installed, use a power nailer—
either manual or pneumatic.
The power nailer positions the
fastener at exactly the right angle
through the tongue, the body of
the board, and into the floor. It
is critical that the nail depth is
set correctly. The fastener should
be set slightly below the surface
of the tongue. If it is set above or
flush with the surface, it may cause
dimpling in the finished floor. If a second board to check for consistency. Once set, remove the sample
the staple or nail penetrates more boards and destroy.
than halfway through the tongue, A fully bonded wood floor is attached to the subfloor with adhesive,
the board will creak or squeak. To much like a tile floor. A bonded wood floor can be installed over concrete
set the fastener depth correctly, and tile, and is typically used over radiant heating systems so the heatingProof 1
fasten a sample board to the elements are not punctured by fasteners. The flooring product, adhesive,
subfloor/underlayment. Once you and subfloor and underlayment must all be compatible. The instructions
have adjusted the depth, fasten that come with your floor cover all the appropriate combinations.
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How to Install a Hardwood Plank Floor
1 2
Acclimate the flooring by stacking planks in the installation Install a layer of rosin paper over the entire subfloor, stapling
room. Separate the rows of flooring with wood scraps. Allow it down and overlapping the edges by 4". The purpose of this
the material to rest in the space for several days, or as layer is mostly to eliminate noise caused by the floorboards
directed by the manufacturer’s instructions. scraping or pressing on the wood subfloor or underlayment
(if required), which should be installed and leveled before the
TIP: Inspect the wood flooring as soon as it arrives. Look flooring installation begins (pages 44 to 47).
for any major defects such as knots, cracks, and damaged,
warped, or bowed boards. It’s easier to replace inadequate
boards during the acclimation period than in mid‑installation.
3 4
Check that the room is square using the 3-4-5 rule: measure out Determine the location of the floor joist and drive a nail in at
3' from a corner in one direction and 4' in the other direction— each end, centered on the joists. Snap chalk lines along the
Proof 1
the distance between the marks should be exactly 5'. If the centerlines of each joist, connecting the nails. Use these as a
room is out of square, you’ll have to decide which wall (usually reference for installing floorboards.
the longest) to follow as a baseline for laying the flooring. (continued)
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5 6
Snap a starter line. Measure ¾" out from the longest wall, Drive spacer nails, such as 8d finish nails, every 4 to 5" along
perpendicular to the floor joists, to allow for an expansion the chalk line, as a guide for placement of the first row of
gap. Drive a nail at each end, and snap a chalk line parallel to planks. Drive the nails in far enough to be stable, but with
the wall. enough of the nail protruding to serve as a bumper for the
flooring (and to make the nail easier to remove later).
7
Lay down a dry run for the first two or three rows to determine VARIATION: Some manufacturers recommend that you
plank positions for best appearance. Mark the backs of apply a bead of flooring adhesive to the backs of wider
planks with a pencil to keep them in your preferred order and planks prior to nailing them. Use the recommended
remove them from the work area. Make sure the end joints adhesive and lay beads across the width of the plank;Proof 1
are staggered by more than 6" apart on adjoining planks. keep adhesive at least ½" from the edges and 1½" from
Create a lay out that has perimeter pieces that are longer the ends.
than 6".
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Attach the first floorboards by
facenailing 8d finish nails into the pilot
holes along the wall edge. Sink the nail 10
heads with a nail set.
9
8
Install the first row. Choose the longest Pre-drill pilot holes through the tongues
planks available for this row. Lay the of the first row planks and blind-nail
planks in place and drill holes every 8d finish or flooring nails. Make sure
8" for facenailing along the wall edge. the heads of the nails do not stick up
Locate the holes ¼ to ½" in from the through the tops of the tongues, where
edge, where they’ll be covered up by they would interfere with the tongue-
the base molding and shoe. and-groove joint.
PLUGGING COUNTERBORES
Wider plank floors frequently require that you fasten
the ends of floorboards by screwing down through the
board and into the subfloor. This is most commonly
needed when you are installing wood flooring that
does not have tongue-and-groove ends. In such cases,
drill counterbored pilot holes for the screws, making
sure the counterbores are deep enough to accept a
wood plug. After the floorboards are installed, check to
make sure the screws are tight (but be careful not to
overdrive them) and then glue a wood plug into each
counterbore. Wood plugs should be the same species
as the flooring or, if that’s not available, make them a
contrasting species. See page 103 for how to cut plugs.
Sand the plugs so the tops are even with surrounding
floor and finish them at the same time.
NOTE: If you are using matching plugs, orient them in
Proof 1 2C
the counterbores with the wood grain running parallel
to the floorboards; if you are using contrasting plugs,
make the grains perpendicular.
(continued)
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11 12
Cut the end planks for each row to length, so that the butt end After the second row, use a flooring nailer to blind-nail the
faces the wall. In other words, try and preserve the tongue- tongues of each plank. Flooring nailers are struck with a mallet
and-groove profiles if your flooring has them on the ends. to drive and set the flooring nails through the floorboard tongues.
Saw the planks with a fine-tooth blade, making sure to orient They can be rented at most home centers or rental centers.
the workpiece so you’ll be cutting into the face, minimizing
tearout on the surface. NOTE: You can continue to hand‑nail if you choose, but it
is difficult to get the same consistency, and it is certainly
more painstaking. Be sure to continue pre‑drilling pilot
holes as well to avoid damaging the tongues.
14
13
Keep joints tight. As you install each successive plank in a At the end of rows and along walls, use a pull bar to seat theProof 1
row, use a flooring pull bar at the open end of the plank. Drive boards. For the last row, rip the planks as necessary, use the
the end of the board toward the joint by rapping on the pull pull bar to seat them, and facenail along the edge as you did
bar with a mallet. with the first row.
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16
15
If a plank is slightly bowed, cut fitting wedges to force the Install a reducer strip or other transition as needed between
wayward board into position before nailing it. Make wedges the plank floor and adjoining rooms. Cut the strip to size and
by cutting two triangles from a 1' or longer scrap of flooring fit the strip’s groove over the plank’s tongue. Drill pilot holes
(inset). Attach one half of the wedge pair with the outside and facenail the strip with 8d finishing nails. Sink the nails
edge parallel to the bowed plank. Slide the groove of the with a nail set, putty, and sand smooth.
other wedge piece onto the tongue of the bowed plank, and
hammer until the plank sits flush against its neighbor. Nail the
plank into place. Remove the wedge parts.
17 18
Install a quarter-round shoe molding to cover all the expansion To reverse the direction of the tongue and groove at doorways
Proof 1
gaps between the floor and walls at the edge of the floor. or other openings, glue a spline into the groove of the plank.
Paint, stain, or finish the molding before installing. Fit the groove of the following board onto the spline and nail
into place as before.
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How to Install a Fully Bonded Wood Strip Floor
1 2
To establish a straight layout line, snap a chalk line parallel to Apply flooring adhesive to the subfloor on the other side of the
the longest wall, about 30" from the wall. Kneel in this space layout line with a notched trowel, according to the manufacturer’s
to begin flooring installation. directions. Take care not to obscure the layout line with adhesive.
3 4
Apply wood glue to the grooved end of each piece as you Install the first row of flooring with the edge of the tongues directlyProof 1
install it to help joints stay tight. Do not apply glue to the long over the chalk line. Make sure end joints are tight, then wipe up
sides of boards. any excess glue immediately. At walls, leave a ½" space to allow
for expansion of the wood. This gap will be covered by moldings.
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5 6
For succeeding rows, insert the tongue into the groove of the After you’ve installed three or four rows, use a mallet and
preceding row, and pivot the flooring down into the adhesive. scrap piece of flooring to gently tap boards together, closing
Gently slide the tongue and groove ends together. At walls, up the seams. All joints should fit tightly.
use a hammer and a flooring pull bar to draw together the
joints on the last strip (inset).
7 8
Use a cardboard template to fit boards in irregular areas. Cut Bond the flooring to the adhesive by rolling it with a heavy floor
Proof 1
cardboard to match the space and allow for a ½" expansion gap roller. Roll the flooring within 3 hours of the adhesive application.
next to the wall. Trace the template outline on a board, then cut Work in sections, and finish by installing the flooring in the
it to fit using a jigsaw. Finish laying strips over the entire floor. section between your starting line and the wall.
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Bonded Bamboo Strip Flooring
I t looks like hardwood and is available in
traditional tongue-and-groove form and in
laminate planks. But bamboo is not wood. It’s really
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Adhesive Weighted roller
a grass—and one of the most popular flooring
materials today. Carpenter’s level Bamboo flooring material
Bamboo flooring is made by shredding stalks of Carpenter’s square Hammer
the raw material, then pressing them together with Chalk line Drill
a resin that holds the shreds in their finished shape.
Not only is bamboo a fast-growing and renewable Cleaning supplies Screws
crop, the companies that make bamboo flooring Marking pen or pencil Nails
use binders with low emissions of volatile organic Measuring tape Circular saw
compounds (VOCs). The result is tough, economical,
and ecologically friendly. In other words, it’s just about Moisture level meter Butcher paper
perfect for flooring. Notched trowel Weights
If you choose tongue-and-groove bamboo, Rubber mallet Trim
the installation techniques are the same as for
hardwoods. Bamboo is also available as a snap-fit Scrap lumber Floor leveler (if necessary)
laminate for use in floating floors. In this project Shims Sandpaper
we use thin, durable planks that are glued to Straightedge Eye protection and gloves
the underlayment (see Resources, page 155).
TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL INSTALLATION
Bamboo plank flooring should be one of the
last items installed on any new construction or
remodeling project. All work involving water
or moisture should be completed before floor
installation. Room temperature and humidity
of installation area should be consistent with
normal, year-round living conditions for at least
a week before installation. Room temperature of
60 to 70˚F and a humidity range of 40 to 60%
is recommended.
About radiant heat: The subfloor should never
exceed 85˚F. Check the manufacturer’s suggested
guidelines for correct water temperature inside
heating pipes. Switch on the heating unit
three days before flooring installation. Room
temperature should not vary more than 15˚FProof 1
year-round. For glue-down installations, leave the
heating unit on for three days following installation.
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How to Install Bonded Bamboo Strip Flooring
1 2
Give the bamboo time to adjust to installation conditions. Store Even though thin-plank bamboo is an engineered material, it can
it for at least 72 hours in or near the room where it will be vary in appearance. Buy all planks from the same lot and batch
installed. Open the packages for inspection, but do not store number. Then inspect the planks to make sure they match.
the planks on concrete or near outside walls. Use the same lighting as you will have in the finished room.
3 4
Inspect the underlayment. Bamboo planks can be installed Make sure the underlayment is level. It should not change byProof 1
on plywood or oriented strand board at least ¾" thick. The more than 1⁄8" over 10'. If necessary, apply a floor leveler to
underlayment must be structurally sound; wood surfaces fill any low places, and sand down any high spots. Prevent
should have no more than 12% moisture. squeaks by driving screws every 6" into the subfloor below.
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5 6
Sweep and vacuum the surface, then measure all Check corners for squareness using the 3-4-5 triangle method.
room dimensions. (See page 67.)
7 8
The planks should be perpendicular to the floor joists below. Lay the first course of planks with the tongue edge toward
Adjust your starting point if necessary. Snap a chalk line next the wall. Align the planks with the chalk line. Hold the edge
Proof 1
to the longest wall. The distance from the wall should be the course in place with wedges, or by nailing through the tongue
same at both ends, leaving ½" for expansion. edge. This row will anchor the others, so make sure it stays
securely in place. (continued)
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9 10
Once the starter row is in place, install the planks using When the adhesive is tacky and ready to use, lay the first
a premium wood flooring adhesive. Be sure to follow the section of bamboo planks. Set each plank in the adhesive by
manufacturer’s instructions. Begin at the chalk line and apply placing a clean piece of scrap lumber on top and tapping it
enough adhesive to lay down one or two rows of planks. down with a rubber mallet. Check the edge of each section to
Spread the adhesive with a V-notched trowel at a 45˚ angle. make sure it keeps a straight line.
Let the adhesive sit for the specified time.
11 12
After you finish the first section, cover the next area with When the adhesive is ready, lay down the next section of
adhesive and give it time to become tacky. Waiting for the planks. Fit the new planks tightly against the previous section,Proof 1
adhesive to become tacky is necessary, even though it slows taking care not to knock the finished section out of alignment.
your work down—and it allows the section you just finished to If the planks have tongue-and-groove edges, fit them carefully
set up. into place.
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13 14
13
Continue applying adhesive and installing planks, one section At the edges and around any fixed objects, such as doorways
at a time, to cover the entire floor. When adhesive gets on the or plumbing pipes, leave a ½" gap for expansion. Use shims
flooring surface, wipe it off quickly. to maintain the gaps if needed. These spaces can be covered
with baseboards, base shoe, and escutcheons.
15 16
As you finish each section, walk across it a few times to In places that are difficult to reach with a roller, lay down a
maximize contact between the planks and the adhesive. sheet of protective material, such as butcher paper, and stack
Proof 1
When all the planks are in place, clean the surface and use weights on the paper. Let the finished floor sit for at least 24
a clean weighted roller. Push the roller in several directions, hours, then clean the surface and remove any spacers from
covering the entire surface many times. the expansion gaps. Finally, install the finishing trim.
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Installing Laminate Flooring
M ost big-name flooring manufacturers now
feature dozens if not hundreds of laminate
flooring options among their catalogues, for a very
channel system holds the planks together both along
the length and at the ends, and simple gravity holds
the flooring down.
simple reason: laminates are favorites among DIYers Because laminate floors float, foot traffic can
and value-conscious shoppers. create a hollow sound as the flooring flexes under
Laminate flooring is a multilayer synthetic product footsteps. This is one reason why all manufacturers
in which the layers are fused (laminated) together. require that the flooring be installed on a special
The core of the flooring is usually a high-density underlayment that deadens the sound and minimizes
fiberboard (HDF) that is tightly bonded with resins. the flexing of the floor. Some flooring products
To this core, a photo appliqué layer is bonded—this have the resilient foam underlayment already
layer is not wood at all, but a plastic layer that can be attached to the bottom of the flooring planks.
made to look remarkably like any kind of wood. Over Be aware that if you are installing your flooring
the plastic photo later is a clear protective surface on concrete, some form of additional moisture
layer that protects against wear. barrier is necessary before the underlayment and
The technology makes it possible for the flooring flooring are laid. Without it, moisture seeping up
to closely resemble any desired wood simply by from below could loosen the bond of the laminate
varying the photo appliqué layer. Recent advances fibers, eventually ruining your floor. Closely follow the
even allow the laminate products to be textured in a manufacturer’s recommendations for this, and when
way that closely mimics actual wood grain. Laminate installing over a concrete slab, make sure to lay down
flooring products are very stable and easy to install, whatever moisture barrier is recommended. Some
making them an excellent choice for DIYers. sheet underlayments are two-ply, with a moisture
Laminate flooring products have few drawbacks, barrier under the resilient foam layer.
but they can be susceptible to scratching, especially Installation instructions vary slightly from
in high traffic areas, and they are not always the best manufacturer to manufacturer, but the principles are
choice for high moisture areas, such as bathrooms or very much the same, and the instructions here should
laundry rooms. And there have been cases of lower- be sufficient for most of the name-brand products you
quality, non-brand-name flooring products that might buy. The product we’re using calls for a sheet
delaminate over time. underlayment to be laid down first. As with any DIY
You can minimize the chances for problems project, read the following pages carefully and make
by buying a quality product from a well-known, sure you understand everything before you begin.
reputable manufacturer, and checking the product Laminate floors are intended to expand
specifications to make sure it is appropriate for your and contract by small amounts in response to
planned location. Most manufacturers offer products temperature and humidity changes. This means that
marketed as “waterproof ” or “water-resistant” for the flooring is installed with a small gap around the
bathrooms and other wet locations, though you walls—the gap is covered by shoe moldings attached
should be aware that these will never be quite as against the baseboards. Our product requires a 3⁄8-inch
genuinely waterproof as ceramic tile or vinyl floor. gap around all walls; your product may have a slightly
Early laminate flooring products were installed different recommendation.
with a full glue-down bond to the subfloor, and while An important first step is to unpack your flooringProof 1
some of these products are still available, the vast and allow it to acclimate to the conditions of your
majority of laminate floors are now installed with room before beginning installation. Do not bypass
a “floating” system that requires no glue. A locking this step.
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Before
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After
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These samples of laminates sold at major home improvement centers show the enormous variety of looks that are available.
Today’s laminate floors require close inspection to distinguish them from genuine wood.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Eye & ear protection Jigsaw Hammer
Work gloves Hole saw Level
Utility knife Pull bar Liquid floor leveler (if necessary)
Tape measure Tapping block Nails (as needed)
Power miter saw Rubber mallet Sheet underlayment kit with clear tapeProof 1
Circular saw Rubber gloves Laminate flooring
Pry bar Compass Flooring spacers
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How to Prepare the Floor for Laminate Flooring
1 2
Remove baseboard shoe moldings using a small pry bar. If your Remove the old flooring, if necessary (see page 38). Before
trim style does not include shoe moldings, as is the case if continuing with preparation, unpack the flooring and stack
you have ranch-style moldings, remove the entire baseboard it in the room being floored, to allow the temperature and
molding. Carefully removed baseboards can be easily reinstalled. moisture levels to stabilize.
3 4
Using a long level or other straightedge, check the floor Using a prybar and hammer, loosen and pry up the tackstrip
for dips or crowns, and if necessary correct these. Loose that held the carpet in place. The tackstrip may break
underlayment can be nailed down, and small dips can be apart as you work; use care to avoid injuring yourself on the
leveled out with liquid floor leveler. sharp tacks.
Proof 1
OPTION: On concrete, install a DRIcore subfloor to raise the
new floor slightly above the slab (see page 48). (continued)
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Plan the layout. Measure the width
of the room and subtract ¾" to
accommodate the 3⁄8" gap needed
along each wall. Now, divide this
number by the width of the flooring
planks to arrive at the number of
rows of flooring you will need. If the
resulting number of rows gives you
a partial fraction that is more than
½ the plank width, rip planks for
the first row to this measurement.
But if the partial fraction is less than
½ the plank width, then divide this
measurement by 2, and plan to rip
both the first and the last rows to
this measurement. The goal is
to avoid a very narrow strip on one
side of the room only.
5
Install the required sheet
underlayment. Cut the underlayment
sheets to fit using a utility knife,
then tape sheets together to cover
the floor using clear tape. (Some
underlayment products unfold,
with self-adhesive edges.) Follow
manufacturer’s recommendation for
overlap between sheets.
NOTE: On concrete floors, you
will need to install a 6‑mil sheet
plastic vapor barrier, then the
sheet underlayment; or install a
DRIcore raised underlayment.
6
Install 3⁄8"-thick spacers around
each wall, spaced every 2'. A
flooring installation kit specified by
your manufacturer may have these
spacers included; or, you can trim
wood shims to this thickness and
use them as spacers.Proof 1
7
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How to Install a Floating Laminate Floor
1
Inspect each plank, and reject any that are scarred or that
have damaged tongues or grooves. For the first row of planks
along the wall, remove the tongues along the long sides of the
planks using a circular saw or table saw.
VARIATION: If your wall is irregular, using a compass to
NOTE: If you are ripping the first row down to accommodate trace the wall outline on the plank, then use a jigsaw to
a partial plank, then make sure to cut away the tongue‑side cut the plank to conform to the wall’s contours.
of the plank.
2
3
Cross-cut a plank into 1⁄3- and 2⁄3-length segments. Begin laying the first row using the planks with the tongues cut
These pieces will be used to start the second and third away, beginning with a full-length piece in the corner. Make
rows, respectively. sure to maintain a 3⁄8" gap along both walls. For the second
Proof 1
piece, align the end tongue-and-groove, and snap into place.
At the last plank in the row, cut the plank to fit with a miter
saw, maintaining the 3⁄8" gap to the wall. (continued)
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4
5
Install the subsequent rows of planks, alternating full plank, If necessary, tap on the opposite end of the plank with a
2
⁄3-length plank, and 1⁄3-length plank, so that joints are tapping block to snug up the joint. Take care, though, not to
staggered in a repeating pattern. To fit each plank, first insert damage the plank.
the tongue into the edge groove of the previous row of planks,
then slide it laterally until the new plank butts up to the end of
the preceding piece. Snap downward to lock into place.
6 7
At the last piece in the row, cut length to size, then fit As you install the last row, lay each full piece against the wallProof 1
the piece into the edge groove, and use the pull bar and on top of the last installed piece, with a scrap plank positioned
hammer to lightly draw the piece back to secure the vertically against the wall as a spacer. Trace the wall contour
end joint. onto the plank.
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Cut along the scribed lines of the
last planks using a jigsaw.
8
To install the pieces of the final row,
slide the long-side tongue into the
9 groove of the previous row, with the
ends aligned. Use the pull bar and
hammer to work along the length
of the plank, pulling toward you to
gently secure the joint.
Reinstall the trim moldings that
were removed, covering the gaps
10 between the flooring and the wall.
Remember the floating floor needs
to expand and contract, so make
sure to drive finish nails at an angle
into the wall, not into the flooring.
Proof 1
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How to Cut Laminate Flooring for Openings & Obstacles
1
2Proof 1
For pipes, carefully measure and mark where the opening will be, by aligning the piece to be installed against the obstacle and
marking with a pencil. Make sure to add a 3⁄8" expansion gap around all sides. Then, cut the opening with a hole saw. Extend
the notch to the edges of the plank using a jigsaw.
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3
4
Proof 1
For internal cutouts, such as those required for floor ducts, first outline the opening on the laminate plank. Drill small corner
holes as pilot openings, then use a jigsaw to cut out the opening. Because jigsaws cut on the upstroke, orient the workpiece
with the underside facing up to prevent tearout as you cut.
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Special Floor
Projects
N ot every floor is installed in strips, and not every
wood floor is new. These wood floor projects are
special installations that build on the techniques of
standard installation but add a few twists.
Parquet floors look beautiful and might seem
unattainable, but installing parquet is as simple
as snapping a few guidelines and spreading some
adhesive. Also easy to install and absolutely stunning
are floor medallions. And, given that medallion
manufacturers will create medallions in any look
you desire, you can have the most custom of
custom floors.
Reusing and recycling are trending, and you
can use various reclaimed woods to create your
wood floor.
In this chapter:
• Parquet Tile
• Decorative Medallion
• Vintage Wood Floors
• End Grain Floors
• One-Piece Molding
• Built-Up Molding
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Parquet Tile TOOLS & MATERIALS
Tape measure
Chalk line
F or a hardwood floor with greater design appeal, consider installing
parquet. It offers more visual interest than strip flooring without
sacrificing the beauty and elegance of wood. Parquet comes in a variety
Parquet flooring
Adhesive
of patterns and styles to create geometric designs. It can range from Notched trowel
elaborate, custom-designed patterns on the high end, to the more Putty knife
common herringbone pattern or the widely available and less expensive
Rubber mallet
block design. The finger block pattern is one of the most widely available
parquet coverings and also one of the least expensive. The configuration 100- to 150-pound floor roller
of perpendicular strips of wood in this design emphasizes the different Jigsaw
grains and natural color variations. Circular saw
Parquet has experienced a radical transformation over the years. Paper
A few years ago, each individual piece of parquet was hand-cut and
painstakingly assembled piece by piece. Today, parquet is prefabricated Scissors
so the individual pieces making up the design are available as single tiles, ½" spacers
which has not only reduced the cost, but has made the flooring easier to Eye and ear protection
install as well. The effort can be very rewarding: parquet can be used to Rubber gloves
create shapes and decorations not possible with other wood flooring.
Parquetry adds
depth and pattern to
your decor and is
an excellent choice
for formal and
informal spaces.Proof 1
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How to Install Parquet Tiles
1 2
Mark the centerpoint of each wall. Snap chalk lines between Lay out a dry run of panels from the center point along the
the marks on opposite walls to establish your reference reference lines to adjacent walls. If more than half of the last
lines. Use the 3-4-5 triangle method to check the lines panel needs to be cut off, adjust the lines by half the width of
for squareness. the panel. Snap new working lines, if necessary.
3 4
Apply enough adhesive onto the subfloor for your first panel Place the first panel on the adhesive so two sides are flush
Proof 1
using a putty knife. Spread the adhesive into a thin layer with with the working lines. Take care not to slide or twist the panel
a notched trowel held at a 45° angle. Apply the adhesive right when setting it into place. This panel must be positioned
up to the working lines, but do not cover them. correctly to keep the rest of your floor square. (continued)
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5
6
Apply enough adhesive for six to
eight panels and spread it with a
Set the next panel in place by holding it at a 45° angle and
notched trowel.
locking the tongue-and-groove joints with the first panel.
Lower the panel onto the adhesive without sliding it. Install
remaining panels the same way.
7
8
After every six to eight panels are
For the last row, place a panel directly on top of the last
installed, tap them into the adhesive
installed row. Place a third panel on top of this, with the sidesProof 1
with a rubber mallet.
butted against ½" spacers along the wall. Draw a line along
the edge of the third panels onto the second row, cut the
panels at the marks, and install.
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Within 4 hours of installing the floor, roll the floor with a
100- to 150-pound floor roller. Wait at least 24 hours before
walking on the floor again.
10
9
To work around corners or obstacles, align a panel over the
last installed panel, then place another panel on top of it as in
step 8. Keep the top panel ½" from the wall or obstacle and
trace along the opposite edge onto the second panel (top).
Move the top two panels to the adjoining side, making sure
not to turn the top panel. Make a second mark on the panel
the same way (bottom). Cut the tile with a jigsaw and install.
How to Install Parquet with a Diagonal Layout
1 2
Establish perpendicular working lines following step 1 on page Lay out a dry run of tiles along a diagonal line. Adjust your starting
93. Measure 5' from the centerpoint along each working line point as necessary. Lay the flooring along the diagonal line using
Proof 1
and make a mark. Snap chalk lines between the 5' marks. adhesive, following the steps for installing parquet (pages 93 to
Mark the centerpoint of these lines, then snap a chalk line 95). Make paper templates for tile along walls and in corners.
through the marks to create a diagonal reference line. Transfer the template measurements to tiles, and cut to fit.
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Decorative Medallion
I f anything is more beautiful under
your feet than a newly installed
hardwood floor, it’s a decorative
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Medallion Notched trowel Pry bar
centerpiece that complements the
rest of the surface. Ready-made Installation jig Router Wood putty
hardwood medallions, such as
the one shown in this project, are Hammer Eye and ear protection Urethane flooring
relatively easy to install and provide Nails Work gloves adhesive
a focal point for the entire room.
A medallion made from wood strips and veneers makes a
beautiful design highlight when inset into a wood floor.
Many stock and custom designs are available from
medallion manufacturers.Proof 1
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How to Install a Decorative Medallion
1 2
Place the medallion on the floor where you want it installed. Nail the installation jig to the floor so the opening is aligned
Draw a line around the medallion onto the floor. with the outline you drew in the previous step. Drive the nails
into joints in the floor.
3 4
Using the router bit that came with the medallion, place the Use a pry bar to remove the flooring inside the hole. Remove
bearing of the router bit on the inside edge of the jig opening and all nails. Dry-fit the medallion to ensure it fits. Remove the jig
make a ¼"-deep cut. Remove any exposed nails or staples. Make and fill nail holes with wood putty.
repeated passes with the router, gradually increasing the depth.
Apply urethane flooring adhesive to
the subfloor where the hardwood was
5 removed. Spread the adhesive with a
trowel. Set the medallion in place and
push it firmly into the adhesive so it’s
level with the surrounding floor. Proof 1
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Vintage Wood Floors
N o wood brings a more unique character to your
home than a reclaimed wood floor. Once you
begin looking for just the right reclaimed wood,
you’ll inevitably realize that the biggest challenge is
narrowing down the amazing number of choices to
find the best look for your home.
Old houses and other buildings yield a wealth
of wood flooring that can be brought back to life
in your home. These include the standard strip
flooring harvested from more recent buildings being
deconstructed, the plank flooring common to older
buildings, more unusual pegged floors (which require
special techniques to salvage and re-lay), and even
end grain flooring, a tile-type of floor using “bricks”
of wood. But older buildings also provide other
elements, such as siding and paneling, which can
be repurposed as new wood flooring. Even beams
Reclaimed barn siding was lightly sanded before being
and other timbers can be milled to serve as flooring. installed for the floor in this cozy living room. The color
You simply won’t find a larger selection of potential variations in the floor planks provide endless fascination and
species, styles, and looks for a floor than among integrate perfectly with the exposed beams and wood ceiling.
reclaimed wood.
There are two ways to get the flooring material to know the flooring you buy is fairly consistent
you want in the amount you need. The first is to go board to board. In most cases, the company will have
to the source. Wood flooring is one of the easiest removed all the boards as part of a single salvage
elements to salvage from a building. Removing project, so the boards were already fit together as
elements like flooring during deconstruction is called a floor. Sometimes, a bit of mixing and matching
“soft-stripping” for just that reason. Unlike structural does occur. But for the most part, suppliers will have
members, flooring can be removed with relatively grouped like boards, and many even prefinish the
little expertise or effort. Even if you’re faced with boards, making installation even easier.
converting square-cut siding or paneling to your Generally, you’ll use the same process to install a
purposes, you can turn it into flooring by milling your reclaimed wood floor as you would a new wood floor.
own tongue and grooves into the boards. Certainly, However, some techniques may differ, depending
this is a lot of work and requires the right tools and on the type of flooring you’ve chosen. For instance,
attention to detail. But do-it-yourself milling can save if you’re installing an aged, exceptionally wide plank
you enormous amounts of money. floor, you may need to facenail—and plug over the
However, you may simply prefer to go the easier facenails—to ensure against cupping or warping.
route and purchase reclaimed flooring in quantity The same is true if you’ve reclaimed a pegged woodProof 1 22CT
from any of a number of salvage firms and companies floor and are re-creating that distinctive look in your
that deal in reclaimed wood. Consider available new home. Complete the installation with the finish
stock carefully. Not only do you need to ensure that of your choice, whether you’re leaving the existing
the amount of a given flooring available through the surface largely intact, or completely sanding down
supplier is sufficient for your needs, you also need and refinishing it.
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Reclaiming a Vintage Wood Floor
Reclaiming some wood building materials directly This may require destroying one or more boards to
from an existing structure can be a challenge. gain access. Do that by using a pry bar on damaged
Structural members such as timbers and beams must flooring, or a circular saw and pry bar, to cut into
be extracted carefully to prevent wholesale collapse. and tear out boards so that you have clear access for
Others, such as siding, are arduous to remove and prying out the adjacent rows.
will need exceptional amounts of prep to be reused. Removing planks from that point is relatively easy.
But wood flooring is one of the easiest and most Slide the tongue of a pry bar under the tongue of the
rewarding materials to salvage. Do it right, and you plank next to a nail, and pry the nail up. Do this at
may not even need to refinish the reclaimed flooring each nail location until the plank is completely loose.
after you re-install it. Then pry up and toward you to release it from the
The process is fairly straightforward and is next row. Continue removing planks, taking care not
basically the reverse of installing a wood floor. Start by to damage the tongues as you remove the boards.
clearing the room you’re working in and remove shoe Remove all the nails as you work, and check boards
or other base moldings. Remove the first and possibly for nails before finally placing them neatly in stacks
second row of boards on the tongue side of the floor. separated by bolsters.
Stack reclaimed flooring neatly, well supported by spacers.
If you are planning on using the flooring with its existing
finish intact, separate the layers with building paper.
SALVAGE WISDOM: ACCLIMATING RECLAIMED FLOORS
Wood planks or strips that you reclaim should already be thoroughly dry, because they have likely been inside for
decades. However, in some cases you will have rescued the wood from a dilapidated building so far gone that the floors
were exposed to the elements for quite a while. In other cases, resellers may have stored reclaimed wood flooring outside.
Wood flooring in these situations can absorb moisture. But even if it’s just a matter of temperature change, you need to
give the flooring a chance to adjust to its new environment. That’s why, just as you would with new wood flooring, you
Proof 1
should store reclaimed wood planks, strips, or end grain tiles in the room where they will ultimately be installed for at least
24 hours prior to installation.
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How to Mill Tongues
and Grooves
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Reclaimed lumber
Jointer
Tablesaw
Dado blade
Clamps
Scrap wood
1
Sandpaper
Joint one edge of each plank using a jointer. If you don’t have
Eye and ear protection a jointer, you can joint the edge using a table saw with a
Work gloves jointer jig. A properly jointed edge will be necessary for the
boards to fit snugly together when laid as a floor.
2 3
Use a table saw to rip the opposite edge of each board so that Saw the grooves first. Set a dado blade to the appropriate height,Proof 1
it is perfectly parallel to the jointed edge. and set the table saw fence so that the groove runs along the
middle of the edge. Stack dado blades as necessary to cut wider
grooves in thicker stock. Cut the first groove in a test piece.
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4 5
Reset the fence to cut the tongues. Use a short or scrap piece Check the fit of the tongue into the groove, with both pieces
to cut the first tongue. Err on the side of cutting tongues too laying flat. The fit should be snug enough that you have to
thick, because you can always cut more off, but you’ll be in apply some force to join the two pieces.
trouble if the tongues do not fit snugly.
6
7
Once you’re certain that the measurements are all correct, cut Check all the planks one last time, paying special attention to
Proof 1
all the grooves first. Check each for fit using the tongue on the any burrs or imperfections in the tongues and grooves. Sand
scrap piece. Finally, cut all the tongues on the other edges of down any spots that might prove troublesome when installing
the planks. the floor.
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Routing Tongue-and-Groove Flooring
Routing tongues and grooves into wood planks is a great alternative
to cutting them with a table saw. The routing is done with special
TOOLS & MATERIALS
adjustable tongue-and-groove router bits—one for each function. The Router
directions here describe using a router table, although you can also
Router table
use a hand router with a special jig. The router table, however, is much
quicker and easier (and safer) to use. Prepare the planks for routing by Router bits
jointing and ripping them. Sandpaper
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
An adjustable router bit
for cutting tongues.
How to Rout Tongue-and-Groove Flooring
1 2
Set the groove bit into the router and cut a groove. Swap the Replace the groove bit and rout all the grooves first. SwapProof 1
bits and cut a tongue on a sacrificial piece. Check that the bits and rout all the tongues. Check that the tongues
tongue and groove fit snugly together, and that the companion and grooves are all clean. Sand as necessary to fix
pieces sit flat when connected. any imperfections.
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How to Salvage and Lay Pegged Plank Flooring
Remove the first two rows of planks. Slip the point of the wrecker’s adze
TOOLS & MATERIALS Using a spade bit one size smaller than under the edge of the board at the
the pegging plugs, drill out the plugs position of one set of facenails. Tap the
Spade bit in the face of the boards, exposing butt of the adze lightly with a hammer
the facenails. to wedge the adze under the plank.
Drill Lever the handle back and forth to
Wrecker's adze loosen the facenails, tapping the adze
Hammer 1 further under the board as necessary.
Continue working the handle until
Plug-cutting bit the plank under it can be pulled free
Pull saw without causing damage to the wood.
Chisel
8d finish nails 2
Glue
Sandpaper
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
3
Lay the flooring as described in How to
Install a Hardwood Plank Floor (pages
67 to 71). Clean out the peg holes with
4
a small chisel, and hammer 8d finish
nails through the holes in the face. If Once all the planks are installed, cut the pegs with a drill press fitted with a plug-
you want to add the peg look to plain cutting bit in the correct size. The plugs can be a contrasting wood, or the same
Proof 1
plank flooring without facenailing, you wood stained a different finish. Fit the pegs in the holes after coating them with
can also use a spade bit to drill peg carpenter’s glue. Use a pull saw to cut the plug off even with the plank’s surface
holes in the face. after the glue dries, and sand lightly until smooth.
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End Grain Floors END GRAIN TILES: CUT YOUR OWN
S pend enough time searching through old
industrial buildings and once-grand turn-of-the-
century homes, and sooner or later you will come
across the interesting and potentially gorgeous
wood flooring known as end grain flooring. Also
called “wood block” flooring, end grain floors are
made of tiles cut from timber ends. Because the
cuts are made across the board, the end grain is
exposed on the face of the tile, just as it would be
on a chopping block. And, as with chopping block,
the surface of an end grain tile is incredibly tough
and durable.
That durability is why the first uses for these You can make your own reclaimed end grain tiles to have
wood block tiles were as a street paving material a wood block floor. Use a bandsaw to cut inch-thick
slices from a 2 × 6 or other piece of reclaimed lumber
(and some of those streets are still in existence
(such as the antique pine timber being sliced into tiles).
today) and as floors for industrial facilities.
Chances are, you won’t find a tougher home
flooring material. a vast number of potential surface finishes, the
But that toughness belies an incredibly beautiful arrangement of the tiles can be varied from a simple
side. End grain pattern is more intense and visually brick pattern, to a herringbone design, to a more
dynamic than any other wood grain. The look of random pattern. You can also leave spaces between
reclaimed end grain tiles varies with the type the end grain blocks to be filled with flexible wood
of wood used and where the tiles were installed. filler, or you can butt each tile up against the others
Depending on the look you’re after, you can refinish to create a solid-surface appearance. Either way, the
the tiles to create a shiny end grain floor that surface must be sealed to prevent dirt and moisture
looks almost like polished brick, or lay a satin- from penetrating.
finish surface with hypnotic patterns unlike any The floors are laid somewhat like other tile
other type of flooring. Not only do the tiles present floors, although the adhesive is different; the surface
of an end grain floor is either sealed with a clear
polyurethane after cleaning and a very light sanding
TOOLS & MATERIALS (if you want to keep the aged appearance) or it is
sanded in much the same fashion as a hardwood strip
Sketch paper Lumber floor is, if you’re looking for a completely new surface
Chalk line Sandable wood filler appearance. But given the potential complexity of the
Measuring tape Belt sander floor’s pattern and the work required for laying it, end
Polyurethane adhesive 60-grit sandpaper grain floors are usually limited to smaller spaces and
those areas that don’t require complex adjustments to
Trowel Eye and ear protection the pattern to accommodate built-in fixtures. Either
Mallet Dust mask way, an end grain floor is more difficult to install thanProof 1
Spacers Work gloves other wood floors, requiring patience and attention
Bandsaw or jigsaw to detail. The result, however, is usually well worth
your trouble.
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How to Lay End Grain Flooring
Establish the
overall tile
pattern.Work the
pattern out on
sketch paper
first using the
dimensions of
the room to
scale. Once
you’ve figured
out the pattern,
dry lay the actual
tiles to ensure
that it works to
your satisfaction.
1
3
Cut tiles with a bandsaw or jigsaw as necessary to fit around
obstacles and at the outer edges of the design. Leave a ½" gap
at walls and around obstructions such as pillars, to allow for
expansion. Once all the tiles are laid, let the floor set for 24 hours,
or as long as recommended by the adhesive manufacturer.
4
2
Snap chalk lines to divide the space into four quadrants. Lay
one quadrant at a time, starting at the center. Spread a bed
of polyurethane adhesive, according to the manufacturer’s
Proof 1
instructions, setting the tiles in place either butted up to one Spread flexible, sandable wood filler into large cracks in the
another, or using spacers to leave room for grout. Tap with a surface of individual tiles. If you’re refinishing the surface,
rubber mallet to set into place. sand with a belt sander equipped with 60-grit sandpaper.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Pencil
Tape measure
One-Piece Base Molding Power miter saw
T-bevel
Framing square
I nstalling plain, one-piece baseboard such as ranch-style base or cove
base is a straightforward project. Outside corner joints are mitered,
inside corners are coped, and long runs are joined with scarf cuts.
Sandpaper
Coping saw
The biggest difficulty to installing base is dealing with out-of-plumb Metal file set
and nonsquare corners. However, a T-bevel makes these obstacles easy to Pneumatic finish nail gun
overcome. Plan the order of your installation prior to cutting any pieces & compressor
and lay out a specific piece for each length of wall. It may be helpful to Moldings
mark the type of cut on the back of each piece so you don’t have any Pneumatic fasteners
confusion during the install.
Locate all studs and mark them with painter’s tape 6 inches higher Carpenter’s glue
than your molding height. If you need to make any scarf joints along a Finishing putty
wall, make sure they fall on the center of a stud. Before you begin nailing Eye and ear protection
trim in place, take the time to prefinish the moldings. Doing so will Work gloves
minimize the cleanup afterward.
Baseboard trim is installed to
conceal the joint between the
finished floor and the wallcovering.Proof 1
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How to Install One-Piece Base Molding
1 2
Measure, cut, and install the first piece of baseboard. Butt Cut the second piece of molding oversized by 6" to 10" and
both ends into the corners tightly. For longer lengths, it is cope-cut the adjoining end to the first piece. Fine-tune
a good idea to cut the piece slightly oversized (up to 1⁄16" the cope with a metal file and sandpaper. Dry fit the joint,
on strips over 10' long) and “spring” it into place. Nail the adjusting it as necessary to produce a tight-fitting joint.
molding in place with two nails at every stud location.
3
4
Check the corner for square with a framing square. If Adjust the miter angle of your saw to cut the adjoining outside
necessary, adjust the miter cut of your saw. Use a T-bevel to corner piece. Test-fit the cut to ensure a tight joint (inset
transfer the proper angle. Cut the second piece (coped) to photo). Remove the mating piece of trim and fasten the first
length and install it with two nails at each stud location. piece for the outside corner joint.
5 6
Lay out any scarf joints by placing the piece in position Nail the third piece in place, making sure the outside corner
so that the previous joint is tight, and then marking the joint is tight. Cut the end of the fourth piece to match the
Proof 1
center of a stud location nearest the opposite end. Set the scarf joint angle and nail it in place with two nails at each stud
angle of your saw to a 30° angle and cut the molding at the location. Add the remaining pieces of molding, fill the nail
marked location. holes with putty, and apply a final coat of finish.
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Built-Up Base Molding
B uilt-up base molding is made
up of several strips of wood
(usually three) that are combined
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Pneumatic finish Tablesaw or straight- 5
⁄8, 1¼" brad nails
for a particular effect. It is installed nail gun edge guide and
in two common scenarios: (1) to Base shoe molding
Air compressor circular saw
match existing trim in other Cap molding
rooms of a house or (2) to match Air hose Tape measure
2" finish nails
a stock one-piece molding that is Miter saw Sandpaper
Wood putty
not available. Hammer Power sander
Wood glue
Installing a built-up base ¾" finish-grade
Nail set Eye and ear protection
molding is no more difficult than oak plywood
a standard one-piece molding, Pencil Work gloves
Brad nailer
because the same installation
techniques are used. However,
built-up base molding offers a
few advantages over standard
stock moldings. Wavy floors and
walls are easier to conceal,
and the height of the molding is
completely up to you, making heat
registers and other obstructions
easier to deal with.
In this project, the base
molding is made of high-grade
plywood rather than solid 1×
stock lumber. Plywood is more
economical and dimensionally
stable than solid lumber and can
be built up to any depth, as well
as cut down to any height. Keep
in mind that plywood molding
is less durable than solid wood
and is only available in 8- and
10-foot lengths, making joints
more frequent.
If you can’t find your exact trim molding
at a local lumberyard, try recreatingProof 1
it with multiple pieces. High-grade
plywood can be substituted for the solid
baseboard shown here.
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How to Install Built-Up Base Molding
1
2
Cut the plywood panel into 6" strips with a tablesaw or a
Test-fit inside corner butt joints before cutting a
straightedge guide and a circular saw. Lightly sand the strips,
workpiece. If the walls are not square or straight, angle
removing any splinters left from the saw. Then apply the finish
or bevel the end cut a few degrees to fit the profile of
of your choice to the moldings and the plywood strips. Install
the adjoining piece. The cap molding will cover any
the plywood strips with 2" finish nails driven at stud locations.
gaps at the top of the joint.
Use scarf joints on continuous runs, driving pairs of fasteners
into the joints. Cut and install moldings so that all scarf joints
fall at stud locations.
3
4
Miter outside corners squarely at 45°. Use wood glue and 1¼" Use a brad nailer with 18-gauge, 5⁄8" brads to install the cap and
brad nails to pull the mitered pieces tight, and then nail the base shoe moldings along the edges of the plywood base. Fit
base to the wall at stud locations with 2" finish nails. Small scarf joints on longer lengths, coped joints on inside corners,
Proof 1
gaps at the bottom or top of the base molding will be covered and miter joints on outside corners. Stagger the seams so
with cap or base shoe. that they do not line up with the base molding seams. Set any
protruding nails with a nail set and fill all nail holes with putty.
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FINISH & MAINTAIN
WOOD FLOORS
W ood floors do show their wear eventually, and occasionally surface damage will mar
their beauty. Sometimes boards loosen and a squeak develops. It’s good to know
exactly how to maintain your wood and laminate floors in the short term and how to repair
them in the long term.
Finishing Wood Floors covers applying various finishes to bare wood floors. Some
variations of wood stains and how to apply them are shown in addition to some techniques
to create an aged- or distressed-looking finish. You will learn application techniques for the
old-time but newly trendy wax finishes.
Many people don’t realize that wood floors can be painted, and in fact painted floors
were very popular in the eighteen hundreds. Painting is a great solution for a wood floor that
has lost its luster but cannot be sanded down to bare wood.
Maintaining Wood Floors gets into the maintenance and repair of wood floors. Should
you ever need to remove a stain of any sort from your wood floor, this section has all the
answers for getting the best results from stain removers. Should your stain removal be
unsuccessful, or should more serious damage occur to your floor, this section also shows
in detail how to refinish a wood floor or replace damaged floorboards and laminate.
Instructions on replacing a damaged stair tread are also included.
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Finishing
Wood Floors
O ne of the most desirable features of hardwood
flooring is that it’s a natural product, with
grain patterns that are interesting to the eye and a
combination of colors that gives any room a soft,
inviting glow. The resilience of wood fibers makes
a hardwood floor extremely durable, but they are
susceptible to changes caused by moisture and aging.
Typically, the first thing to wear out on a hardwood
floor is the finish. Refinishing the floor by sanding
it with a rented drum sander and applying a top
coat, such as polyurethane, will make your old floor
look new. If you want to retain the floor’s aged glow
without sanding, or if the boards have been sanded
before and are less than 3⁄8 inches thick, consider
stripping the floor.
Once your floor is finished, you may want to dress
it up with a favorite design, border, or pattern. If the
wood will not look good refinished, consider painting
it. Pages 120 to 123 offer exciting ways to customize
your wood floor.
In this chapter:
• Floor Stains & Finishes
• Wax Finishes
• Painting Wood Floors
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Floor Stains & Finishes
A stain is applied to the surface of an unfinished wood floor to change
the color to a variety of natural wood tones. Colored stains can also
be applied to previously stained and finished floors for a colorwashed
effect. Consider a colored stain to complement your décor; green
blends well with a rustic decorating scheme and white adds to a
contemporary look.
Look for a water-based stain that’s formulated for easy application
without lap marks or streaking. Conditioners can help prevent streaking
and control grain raise when you’re using water-based wood stains. Use
a wood conditioner on the wood prior to staining, if recommended by
the manufacturer.
You can also stain wood by colorwashing it with diluted latex paint.
The colorwash solution will be considerably lighter in color than the
original paint color. Use one part latex paint and four parts water to
make a colorwash solution, and experiment with small amounts of paint
until you achieve the desired color. Apply the stain or colorwash solution
in an inconspicuous area, such as a closet, to test the application method
and color before staining the entire floor surface.
Aged finishes (page 117) give floors timeworn character, which is
especially suitable for a rustic or transitional decorating style. Although
they appear distressed and fragile, these finishes are very durable. Aged
finishes are especially suitable on previously painted or stained floors,
but they may also be applied to new or resurfaced wood flooring. Up to
three coats of paint in different colors may be used.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Synthetic brush Fine- and medium-grit Lint-free rags
Sponge applicators sandpaper Latex enamel paints
Rubber gloves Tack cloth Paint roller
Paint pad and Water-based stain Hammer
pole extension or latex paint
Chisel
Power sander High-gloss and satin
Awl
clear finishes
Vacuum Eye and ear protectionProof 1
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Wood Stain Variations
Dark wood tones
work well for
traditional rooms.
White colorwashing
over a previously
dark-stained
floor mellows the
formal appearance.
Medium, warm wood
tones have a casual
appearance. White
colorwashing over
a medium wood
tone results in an
antiqued look.
Pale neutral stains
are often used for
contemporary rooms.
A blue colorwash can
give a pale floor bold
new character.
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How to Apply Stain to a Bare Wood Floor
Sand the floor surface with
fine-grit sandpaper in the
direction of the wood grain.
Remove the sanding dust
with a vacuum, then wipe
the floor with a tack cloth.
1
2
Prepare and apply stain. Wear rubber gloves when working with
any stain product. Stir the stain or colorwash solution thoroughly.
Apply the stain or solution to the floor using a synthetic brush or
sponge applicator. Work on one small section at a time. Keep a
wet edge and avoid overlapping the brush strokes.
3
4
Wipe away excess stain after the waiting time recommended Apply a coat of high-gloss clear finish to the stained floor
by the manufacturer using a dry, lint-free rag. Wipe across using a sponge applicator or a paint pad with pole extension.
the grain of the wood first, then wipe with the grain. Continue Allow the finish to dry. Sand the floor lightly using fine-grit
applying and wiping stain until the entire floor is finished. Allow sandpaper, then wipe with a tack cloth. Apply two coats ofProof 1
the stain to dry. Sand the floor lightly using fine-grit sandpaper, satin clear finish following manufacturer’s directions.
then remove any sanding dust with a tack cloth. For a deeper
color, apply a second coat of stain and allow it to dry thoroughly.
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How to Apply an Aged & Distressed Finish
1
2
Finish the floor with a painted or stained base coat. Sand the Use a power sander to sand the floor surface with medium grit
floor lightly using fine-grit sandpaper. Vacuum the floor and sandpaper, sanding harder in some areas to remove the top
wipe away dust with a tack cloth. Apply two or three coats of and middle coats of paint. Avoid sanding beyond the base
enamel using a different color of paint for each coat. Allow the coat of paint or stain.
floor to dry between coats. Sand the floor lightly between coats
using fine-grit sandpaper, and wipe away dust with a tack cloth.
CREATIVE COLOR OPTIONS
3
Two coats of dark green paint were applied over a
previously stained floor. Sanding revealed the stain in
some areas. The floor was further distressed using a
hammer, chisel, and awl.
To distress the floor further, hit the wood with the head of a
Proof 1 2C
hammer or a chain. Gouge the boards with a chisel, or pound
holes randomly using an awl. Create as many imperfections Maroon base coat and light rose top coat were painted
as desired, then sand the floor lightly with fine-grit sandpaper. over a previously stained floor. Sanding created an aged
Apply two coats of satin clear finish, allowing the floor to dry look suitable for a cottage bedroom.
completely between coats.
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Wax Finishes
T he new trend in floor finishing is the old standard of wax. Your
ancestors might not understand why anyone wouldn’t choose
polyurethane, or better yet, a factory finished floor, but there are some
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Vacuum
plusses to wax. The first benefit is that the sheen on a waxed floor can
Wax finish
be changed by simply changing the style pad used to buff the floor. The
lower sheen possible with waxes is appealing when used with the new Buffer with red or tan pad
hand-scraped boards. Another benefit with wax is that removing the and white pad
finish does not remove any of the wood, as sanding would for a typical Cheesecloth
polyurethane finish. A typical homeowner can easily touch up areas with Eye and ear protection
a rental buffer. Some products combine oil and wax, such as Pallmann
Rubber gloves
Magic Oil.
Wax needs to be applied to bare, unfinished wood floors. Pay careful
attention to the manufacturer’s instructions on the application method Wax can have beautiful results when
and type of pads used for the buffer. applied to an unfinished hardwood floor.Proof 1
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How to Apply Wax Finish
Apply wax using
cheesecloth.
1 Vacuum the
floor thoroughly.
Wrap a generous
amount of wax
in cheesecloth
and apply to
the floor in a
circular pattern.
Buffing is the
final step in wax
2 application.
Check product
directions for the
type of pad.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Lacquer thinner Dust mask
Painting Wood Floors Primer
Latex paint specifically
Fine- and medium-grit
sandpaper
for floors Broom
Wide painter’s tape Vacuum
P aint is a quick, cost-effective way to cover up
wood floors that no longer look their best, but
a floor doesn’t have to be distressed or damaged to
Tape measure
Paint roller and tray
Tack cloth
Stir sticks
benefit from paint. Floors in perfect condition in 4"-wide paintbrush Paint can opener
both formal and informal spaces can be decorated Extension pole Polyurethane sealer
with paint to add color and personality. For example, Paint scraper Paint pad
one could unify a space by extending a painted floor
through a hallway to a staircase. Stencil designs Hammer Straightedge
or faux finishes can make an oversized room feel Pole sander Eye and ear protection
cozy and inviting. There are even techniques for Putty knife Rubber gloves
disguising worn spots. In addition, paint is a relatively Nail set Work gloves
inexpensive flooring finish if your budget is tight.
Rev up a worn-out floor with a bright paint color. Paint
not only disguises flaws, but can also add warmth and
character to a room.Proof 1
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How to Paint Wood Floors
2
1
To paint a wood floor you must apply primer first, then Use a paint scraper to smooth rough spots. Use a pole sander
apply the paint, and follow that with a polyurethane sealer. to sand with the grain of the wood. For coarse wood, use
Make sure the products you choose are made specifically medium-grit sandpaper. Scuff glossy hardwoods with fine
for floors. sandpaper (120-grit) for good adhesion.
3 4
Clean up dust with a broom or vacuum. Use a damp cloth to Protect the baseboards with wide painter’s tape. Press the tape
Proof 1
remove fine dust. Use a cloth dampened with lacquer thinner edges down so paint doesn’t seep underneath.
for a final cleaning. If you see any nails sticking up, tap them
down with a hammer and nail set. (continued)
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5 6
Mix primer well (see step 6 for mixing technique). Use a To mix paint, pour half of the paint into another can,
4"-wide brush to apply the primer around the perimeter of stirring the paint in both containers with a wooden stir
the room. Then paint the remaining floor with a roller on an stick before recombining them. As you stir, you want a
extension pole. Allow the primer to dry. smooth consistency.
8
7
Use a 4" brush to apply paint around the border. To paint the Apply 2 or 3 coats of a matte-finish, waterbased polyurethaneProof 1
rest of the floor, use a roller on an extension pole. Always roll sealer using a painting pad on a pole. Allow the paint to dry.
from a dry area to a wet area to minimize lap lines. Allow paint Sand with a pole sander using fine sandpaper. Clean up dust
to dry. Apply second coat of paint. Allow to dry. with a tack cloth.
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How to Paint a Checkerboard Floor
1 2
If your wood floor is in poor condition, it can be camouflaged Measure the entire floor. Now, determine the size of squares
with a design, such as a classic checkerboard pattern. Proper you’ll use. Plan the design so the areas of the floor with
preparation is essential for lasting results. If you’ve already painted the highest visibility, such as the main entrance, have
the floor based on the instructions from the first half of this project, full squares. Place partial squares along the walls in less
you are well on your way, and you have the base color already conspicuous areas. Mark the design lines on the floor using a
painted. You just have to paint in the darker-colored squares. straightedge and pencil.
3 4
Using painter’s tape, outline the squares that are to remain Paint the remaining squares with the darker paint color. Paint
light in color. Press firmly along all edges of the tape using a small areas at a time. Once you have painted the entire box
putty knife to create a tight seal. and a few surrounding boxes, remove the masking tape from
the painted squares. Be sure to remove the tape before the
Proof 1
paint completely dries. After all of the paint has completely
dried, apply a coat of high-gloss clear finish using a paint roller
or paint pad with a pole extension. Allow the finish to dry.
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Maintaining
Wood Floors
W ood floors are among the most durable flooring
materials you can install, but like any flooring,
they require occasional maintenance to preserve
their look and function. Years of regular, normal
use can wear out the surface finishes, and even
the hardest woods can be scratched by pets with
sharp toenails or by furniture dragged along their
surface. Impact by heavy items—tools or even heavy
dishes—can dent a wood floor. And the biggest
enemy of all is water, which can badly stain wood, or
even warp it to the point where your only option is
complete replacement.
This chapter will show you the tried-and-true
basics of cleaning and maintaining wood floors to
provide years of service, as well as solutions to the
most common problems with wood floors.
The best strategies for caring for wood floors
are the classic methods practiced by wood flooring
professionals. Manufacturers market a great many
chemical products that proclaim they can strip,
restore, and top-coat a floor all in one pass, no matter
what your finish might be. Be very wary of these
products, as one of the worst things you can do for
your fine wood floor is blanket it with additional
layers of finishes that do not address underlying
problems, and which may not even be compatible
with the original finish.
In this chapter:
• Cleaning & Maintaining a Wood Floor
• Removing Stains from Wood
• Refinishing Hardwood Floors
• Repairing Scratches & Dents to Hardwood Floors
• Fixing Loose & Squeaky Floorboards
Proof 1
• Replacing Damaged Floorboards
• Replacing a Damaged Stair Tread
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Cleaning & Maintaining a Wood Floor
Y ou might think that cleaning a floor needs no explanation—after all, isn’t it just a matter
of a mop and a bucket?
In some cases, yes, cleaning the floor is that simple, but with wood floors it is important
to evaluate the floor carefully before charging in. The type of finish and its condition is
critical in choosing the right type of cleaning products and methods.
While hardwood floors installed or refinished in the last 30 years likely have some kind
of polyurethane or varnish finish that will be relatively easy to clean, older floors may be
finished with shellac, lacquer, or oil finish—all likely covered over with many layers of wax.
These floors require different cleaning strategies.
Manufacturers offer a wide variety of products, many of which proclaim that they can
be used on any type of floor, no matter what the finish and no matter what the condition of
the floor. This is deceiving marketing, because not all surface finishes are compatible with
one another. Whenever possible, if you want to apply a fresh top coat, it should match the
original finish. It can be especially problematic to apply modern water-based varnishes or
polyurethanes over the top of solvent-based shellacs or oils.
And it is almost always disastrous to slather on a new top coat over floors that have
been waxed. Even attempts to strip the wax before applying a top coat will rarely get all wax
removed. Your only real option with a waxed floor is to clean and rewax it. Floors with a
heavy buildup of waxes and top coats will eventually require complete sanding down to bare
wood and refinishing with polyurethane.
Remember that virtually all older shellac, lacquer, or oiled floors have multiple layers of
wax over them. Treat these floors as wax-finished floors for purposes of cleaning.
Remember that the fallback position for any wood floor that has just too much old
wax or finish, or which is too badly damaged, is a complete sanding and refinishing
(pages 131 to 132).
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Polyurethane Acrylic wax New shellac or deep
Water-based cleaner Ammonia-based wax stripper; sanding and refinishing
new acrylic wax with Tung oil
Screening and recoating with
same polyurethane product Varnish Odorless mineral spirits;
new oil
Paste wax Shellac
Extra-fine steel wool
Deep sanding and refinishing New polyurethane or deep
with polyurethane; new sanding and refinishing Rubber gloves
paste wax; buffingProof 1
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How to Evaluate & Clean Wood Floors
Test the soundness of the finish by
placing a few drops of water on one of
1 the more well-worn spots in the floor. 3
If the water beads remain on the surface
of the wood for a few minutes without
soaking in, the finish is sound. This will
mean that water-based cleaners can
be safely used to clean the floor. Use a
pH-neutral wood wash to clean the floor
and a damp rag to then rinse it.
2
If the floor finish is not sound, water will
soak into the wood immediately. Do
not clean with a water-based product,
because it will stain and damage the
floor. Instead, clean the floor with cloths
dampened with mineral spirits. An
unsound floor finish will eventually need
Begin by sweeping, vacuuming, then to be either recoated with the same finish
removing dust from the floor using a currently on the floor, or rewaxed. The best
pad-mop equipped with wet pad. Scuff long-term solution will be to completely
marks can be lightly scrubbed by hand sand and finish with a new polyurethane
using a soft cloth, not an abrasive pad. layer (see pages 131 to 132).
5
Does your floor
have an acrylic
wax? These newer
waxes are best
identified by the
dirty, patch-like
appearance they
have as they
begin to wear. If
your floor has this
kind of synthetic
wax, use an
ammonia-based
4 wax stripper to
remove the wax
layer, then apply
Next, test to see if your floors have a paste wax finish. Slightly a new layer of
dampen a piece of extra-fine steel wool and rub the floor acrylic wax.
in several areas. Paste wax will show up by leaving a gray Be aware that
smudge on the steel wool pad. On a paste-wax floor, clean the acrylic waxes will
floor with cloths moistened with odorless mineral spirits. Let need frequent
dry completely, then apply a new coating of paste wax, and reapplication.
buff it thoroughly, following manufacturer’s directions.
Proof 1
NOTE: NEVER apply a water-based finish coat over a
waxed floor.
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STAIN TOOLS & MATERIALS FOR REMOVAL
Paint Paint scraper, abrasive pad, Goof Off
Crayon, black heel marks Mineral spirits
Gum Chill and chip off; mineral spirits
Fingernail polish Lacquer thinner
Removing Stains Glue Water-based household cleaner, or Goof Off.
from Wood Construction adhesive
Coffee, tea
Steam and putty knife
Apple cider vinegar and water
Ink Baking soda and water.
A variety of substances can stain wood floors, and
each substance has a particular solution most
likely to produce results. Many stains are surface
Water, iron rust
Grape juice, dye, blood
Oxalic acid and water
Chlorine bleach and water
Urine, feces Hydrogen peroxide and sodium hydroxide (27%)
discolorations that may be able to be removed with
nothing more than a light scraping or rubbing with an
abrasive pad or fine sandpaper. Always try this before
reaching for more serious solutions, some of which try to scrape away as much as possible. Remaining
require the use of dangerous chemicals. adhesive may need to be sanded away.
Some stains, though—especially water stains or Coffee and tea. Dilute ¼ cup of apple cider
stains from pet urine—may soak in very deep and are vinegar in a gallon of water and use a sponge to
difficult or impossible to fully remove. In these instances, moisten the stain. Let it sit for 1 to 2 hours, then scrub
you should consider replacing entire floorboards (page with a clean sponge. Rinse with a damp sponge and
144). Another solution is to use a bleach to lighten the dry immediately.
color of the stain. Be aware, though, that bleach does Ink. Mix baking soda and water to form a paste.
not remove a stain, but just lightens it. After bleaching, Spread the paste over the stain. Let sit for a few
you will likely be left with the task of restaining the minutes, then blot up the paste with a damp cloth.
bleached area to match the surrounding floor. Repeat the process until the ink stain is removed.
Paint. Obvious drips can often be scraped off with Water, iron rust stains. Mix a solution of oxalic
a sharp paint scraper. More imbedded paint stains acid and water, following label directions. Apply the
may be amenable to light sanding with a scrub pad or solution carefully to the stain and wait several hours,
fine sandpaper. A commercial removal product, such or overnight. Thoroughly wash away the residue with
as Goof Off, may also work well. water mixed with baking soda, which neutralizes
If the floor finish is marred after removal, lightly the acid. Oxalic acid is caustic, so make sure to
coating the stain area with polyurethane or another wear protective gloves and avoid getting it on your
finish may hide it. skin. This solution will lighten the wood, and you
Crayon, black heel marks. Try a water-based may need to sand and restain the area to match the
cleaner first, then a cloth lightly dampened with surrounding floor.
mineral spirits. Grape juice, dye, blood. Apply household bleach to
Gum. Chill with ice and chip off; or try the stain and blot it up. If it does not remove the stain
mineral spirits. immediately, reapply and let sit overnight. Neutralize
Fingernail polish. Moisten a cloth with lacquer the bleached area with vinegar, then rinse with clear
thinner, and carefully dab the stain. Avoid getting it on water. If the bleach has removed too much wood color,
the rest of the finish, as it will likely dissolve it. After restain the area to match surrounding wood.
removal, you may have to touch up the finish. Urine, feces. Use a product like Klean Strip,
Glue. Most wood glues or household glues are which is a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and sodium
water-based. Begin by trying to simply scrape away hydroxide. This is very caustic and toxic material,
the glue. Next, try a water-based cleaner. Last resort: a so handle carefully. Apply the bleach, and let standProof 1
chemical removal product, like Goof Off. as directed. Rinse with clear water. This product
Construction adhesive. Chip away as much as will bleach the wood quite light, so staining and
you can, then apply steam with a household iron, and refinishing the area will be necessary.
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Products you may need to remove stains
I N
from a wood floor include: extra-fine
nylon scrubbing pad (A); sharp scraper
(B); sandpaper (C); mineral spirits (D);
lacquer thinner (E); oxalic acid (F);
D putty knife (G); chlorine (I); protective
E
gloves (J); eye protection (K); Goof Off
L stain remover (L), baking soda (M);
F vinegar (N).
M A
K
B
C G J
How to Use Wood Bleaches
1 2
Choose a bleach appropriate for the stain (see page 123). Let the bleach remain on the stain for the recommended time,
Wearing protective gloves, apply the bleach solution to the then neutralize the bleach with the recommended agent
stain area, being careful to confine it to that area. (baking soda solution for oxalic acid, vinegar solution for
household bleach, clear water for Klean Strip). Wash the area
thoroughly with clear water, wipe up excess water, and let dry.
3 4
Once dry, lightly sand the area. All bleaches will raise the wood Apply a rub-on wood stain that closely matches the tone of
Proof 1
grain, and before applying a wood stain, the grain must be the surrounding floor using a soft rag. Let dry completely,
sanded smooth. then carefully apply a polyurethane or other matching surface
finish to blend the stain area with the surrounding floor.
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Refinishing Hardwood Floors
Q uality hardwood floors made with solid wood,
usually oak or maple, are premier flooring
surfaces that have returned to must-have popularity.
carefully evaluate your floor, because one method is
considerably more involved and should be done only
if necessary.
Whether emerging out from under carpeting, or being The first method is called screening—a process
renovated after years of use, hardwood is now being that involves fitting an upright floor buffer with
proudly displayed again. a metal screen pad that roughens up the glossy
There are two ways a hardwood floor can be surface finish of your floor without sanding down
renovated and before deciding what approach to take, into the hardwood. After the floor is screened and
BeforeProof 1 2C
After
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all dust removed, a new top finish layer is applied which a rented upright drum sander or upright
to the floor. Where appropriate, screening and orbital sander grinds down a thin layer of the actual
applying a new top coat is a very efficient and hardwood in preparation for applying a new top
relatively easy means to transform a hardwood coat finish. This is the option if the wood itself
floor. Screening is appropriate where the wear and shows damage, or if the original top coat is wax or
damage to a floor is confined to the surface finish, a super-hard aluminum oxide coat. In this method,
and where the top layer is a standard polyurethane after the major floor area is sanded with the upright
or varnish finish. sander, the corners and edges are sanded with a
But be aware that there are instances where handheld rented edge sander. Historically, this is a
screening and refinishing is not possible. For difficult project for DIYers, because drum sanders
example, if the floor has been maintained by are hard to control and small errors in handling the
waxing, or finished with a modern aluminum tool can badly gouge a floor. Careful DIYers can do
oxide coat, new polyurethane simply will not this successfully.
bond to the underlying layer, and your only This project will show you how to evaluate your
option will be to completely sand down into the floor and then give you both options for refinishing:
wood layer. screening to remove just the top surface finish,
The second method for refinishing hardwood or complete sanding to remove a thin layer of the
is a complete sanding and refinishing project, in actual wood.
The timeless
beauty of a
refinished
hardwood floor
enlivens the
whole room.
Proof 1
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How to Evaluate Your Wood Floors
1
2
First, make sure your floors are solid hardwood rather than Evaluate the current surface finish by taping off a small
an engineered wood product made from laminated layers of section in an out-of-the-way place, such as in a closet.
wood. (An engineered wood floor should be sanded only by a Roughen this area with a sanding screen, clean away the dust
professional, since it is all too easy to sand completely through thoroughly, then brush on a layer of polyurethane finish. Let it
the top layer of wood into the core.) To do this, remove a floor dry completely.
duct or a base shoe molding and look at the flooring material
from the side. It should be obvious if the flooring is solid
hardwood or a laminated, engineered product.
3 4
Use a coin to scrape lightly across the dried finish. If the Examine the condition of the wood around the room. If it is in
polyurethane separates and scrapes away easily, the original overall good shape except for surface wear to the top coat,Proof 1
finish is incompatible with screening and applying a top coat. your floor is suitable for screening and finishing. But if the
You will have to deep sand instead. wood is badly stained, scratched, or dented, then complete
sanding is the better option.
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CHOOSING A POLYURETHANE FINISH
Not all polyurethane finishes are created
equal. In general poly finishes for floors are
categorized either as oil based (otherwise known
as OMU, or Oil Modified Urethane), or water-
based polyurethane. Both products are fine
for homeowner use, though each has certain
advantages. Oil-based finishes tend to have
a somewhat amber color, which some people
like, and because they are slower to dry, they
are more forgiving in terms of allowing surface
imperfections to flatten out as they cure. Water-
based finishes tend to be very clear, and they dry
very quickly and are easy to clean up. The speed
with which they dry, however, means they may
show surface flaws unless applied with skill. Due
to their low odor and easy clean-up, water-based
finishes are preferred by most DIYers, while
professionals very often lean toward oil-based
finishes. Polyurethanes come in various finishes,
as well, including satin, semi-gloss, and gloss,
depending on the level of shininess you prefer.
Polyurethane finishes may be applied over
varnished floors but never over shellac, wax, or
oil-finished floors. These floors will only accept
the same finishes or may be sanded down to
bare wood before finishing with polyurethane.
TIP
Inspect the floor for nails. Remove
any protruding staples or other
obstructions. Nail heads that can
be felt should be driven down
with a hammer and nail set. Use
a scraper or putty knife to remove
paint splatter.
Proof 1
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A
J
I
K
M O
L
N S
C
T
Q
P
E
D
H
F B
G R
Tools and materials for screening and refinishing a hardwood floor include: upright floor buffer (A); handheld random-orbit
sander (B); sanding screens for rental sander (C); paint scraper (D); brad puller (E); hammer (F); nail set (G); pry bar (H); shop
vacuum (I); mop (J); rags (K); polyurethane finish (L) painting pad (M); paintbrushes (N); paint tray (O), vinegar (P); detail
sander (Q); tape measure (R); ear protection (S); particle mask and eye protection (T).
How to Screen & Refinish a Hardwood Floor
1 2Proof 1
Remove shoe moldings using a pry bar. Your results will be Vacuum floor and damp mop with a solution of vinegar in water.
best if you screen and refinish all the way to the walls. Make sure to let the floor dry completely, and don’t allow
standing water to sit on the floor.
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3 4
Fit a sanding screen to the bottom of an upright floor buffer. Screen edges and corners with a handheld power sander.
Buff over the entire floor until the finish is dull and opaque. In the very back of corners, and under obstacles such as
radiators, use a piece of sanding screen to remove the finish
by hand. Thoroughly vacuum the floor, then wipe it down with
a slightly moistened cloth.
5 6
Apply polyurethane finish as directed by the manufacturer Reinstall the baseboard moldings. If the moldings were old
using a painting pad on a pole, and a paintbrush for small and brittle, cutting and installing new pieces may give your
Proof 1
corners. If necessary, a second coat can be applied after the floor a nice finishing touch.
first coat dries completely. Lightly buff the previous coat with a
fiber pad between coats.
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F
I
H
G
K
P
J
N
A
B
D
M
A
Q
E
L
O
R
C
Tools and materials for sanding a hardwood floor include: hammer (A); nail set (B); sheet plastic (C); painter’s tape (D); earProof 1
protection (E); drum sander [rented] (F); floor sander/edger (G); under-radiator sander [rented, if needed] (H); shop vacuum (I);
wood filler (J); putty knife (K); clean cloths (L); pre-stain conditioner (M); wood stain (N); latex gloves (O); detail sander/mouse
(P); eye protection (Q); and respirator (R).
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How to Sand a Hardwood Floor
1 2
Examine the floor and remove any protruding tacks or staples. Cover doorways, HVAC vents, and other openings with sheets
Drive down any nail heads that can be felt by hand. Scrape of plastic. Shelves holding books or other decorative items
away any paint splatters from the floor. Vacuum the floor can also be covered with plastic. Power sanding a floor is a
thoroughly. Damp-mop the floor and let it dry completely. messy business, and dust can infiltrate any opening.
SAFETY TIP
3
Even with proper ventilation,
inhaling sawdust is a health
risk. We recommend getting a
respirator for a project like this.
If you don’t use one, you must
at least wear a dust mask. Eye
protection is also a must; and
you’ll thank yourself for buying a
good pair of strong work gloves—
they make the sander vibrations a
little more bearable.
Important! Always unplug the
sander whenever loading or
unloading sandpaper.
Examine the floor for loose or bowed boards, and if necessary, nail them down. Badly
Proof 1
damaged floorboards should be replaced (see page 144). Examine any stained areas.
Surface stains will probably sand out, but deep stains, such as where water damage
has soaked in, may require that the floorboards be replaced. (continued)
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4
Practice with the drum sander turned off. Move forward and backward. Tilt or raise it off the floor a couple of times. A drum
sander is heavy, bulky, and awkward. Once it touches the floor, it walks forward; if you stop it, it gouges the floor. For the initial
pass with the drum sander, sand with the grain using 40- or 60-grit paper. Start two thirds down the room length on the right
side; work your way to the left. Raise drum. Start motor. Slowly lower the drum to the floor and move forward. Lift the sander
off the floor when you reach the wall. Move to the left 2" to 4" and then walk it backward the same distance you just walked
forward. Repeat.
5 6
In small corners, you may need to sand by hand, or with a Use a paint scraper to get to corners and hard-to-reach nooksProof 1
handheld detail sander. After sanding is complete, completely and crannies. Pull the scraper toward you with a steady
vacuum the floor with a brush attachment. downward pressure. Pull with the grain. Next, sand with a
sanding block.
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7
8
Examine the floor carefully. Nicks, knots, holes, or wide cracks
between floorboards can be filled with wood filler that color-
matches the wood. Let the wood filler dry completely. Repeat
steps 4 to 6, first with medium-grit sandpaper, then fine-grit
Prepare the room for finish by sweeping and vacuuming. sandpaper. Vacuum thoroughly after each sanding, and after
Sweep and vacuum again. Wipe up fine particles with a last sanding thoroughly wipe the floor clean with slightly damp
tack cloth. (not wet) cloths.
To stain, apply the liquid stain to the
floor with a brush or clean cloth, in a
9 motion parallel to the wood grain. Allow
the stain to soak in for 5 to 15 minutes,
then wipe away excess with a clean
cloth. If you wish to darken the color,
wait about 6 hours, then apply a second
coat of stain.
SANDPAPERS FOR DRUM SANDERS & EDGERS
Grits Grade Use
20, 30, 40, 60 Coarse To level uneven boards
100, 120 Medium To minimize scratches from coarse grits
150, 180 Fine To eliminate scratches from medium grits
Sandpaper becomes less effective over time; it may even rip. Buy three to five sheets of every grade for each room you
want to refinish. You won’t use them all, but most rentals allow you to return what you don’t use. It’s far better to have too
many than to find yourself unable to continue until the next day because you ran out and the hardware store is closed.
Proof 1
Reminder: Before you leave the rental shop, have an employee show you how to load the paper. Every machine is a
little different.
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Repairing Scratches & Dents to Hardwood Floors
A lthough serious physical damage to floorboards
requires that they be removed and replaced, most
scratches and dents can be repaired. Several methods
Whatever repair you attempt, confine your work
as narrowly as possible to the damaged area only—the
smaller the repair area, the less noticeable it will be.
are possible, depending on the severity of the damage.
Remember that on engineered wood floors, the TOOLS & MATERIALS
surface layer is usually only 1⁄16 to 1⁄8 inches thick. On an
engineered hardwood floor, relatively shallow scratches Clean cloths Putty knife
may be enough to expose the core layer, requiring Odorless mineral spirits Paintbrush
touch-up staining and refinishing, or full replacement.
Serious, deep dents, such as those that occur when Fine-grit sandpaper Eye and ear protection
heavy tools are dropped on a floor, occur because Household iron Rubber gloves
wood fibers become compressed. If the wood fibers Wood filler Work gloves
are not broken, dents can often be removed by Polyurethane finish
expanding the wood fibers using heat and moisture.
How to Repair Shallow Scratches
1 2 3
Sweep the floor clean, then wash the Lightly sand the scratched area, sanding After the scratch is removed, clean the
area around the scratch with a cloth parallel to the wood grain, periodically area with mineral spirits, let dry, and
moistened with odorless mineral spirits. wiping away the sanding dust. It is lightly touch up the surface with the
Let the floor dry. possible that light sanding will remove same finish used on the rest of the
the scratch if the damage is only in the floor, restoring its shine. Be aware that
surface finish. on engineered wood floors, even lightProof 1
sanding may penetrate to the core layer.
If so, continue to the directions for
deep scratches.
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How to Repair Deep Scratches
When the bare wood is exposed,
carefully apply a nonwax wood filler to
the crack. Colored wood fillers may be
available that closely match the color
of your floor. If not, you can apply an
uncolored wood filler, then stain it to
match the floor.
2
3
1 After the filler dries, lightly sand it. Wipe
away all dust, then apply a rub-on wood
stain with a small brush, if needed. Let
Clean the scratched area with odorless dry, then apply a surface finish that
mineral spirits, then lightly sand away matches the rest of the floor to the
the surface finish down to bare wood. repaired area.
How to Repair Dents
Moisten the tip of a clean cloth with
water, and place it over the dent. Apply
the hot tip of a household clothes iron
over the wet cloth, moving it around
to drive moisture down into the wood
fibers. Try to avoid steaming the
surrounding wood finish, as it may
discolor it. The dented area should soon
swell back, eliminating the dent.
2
1 3
Clean the area around the dent, Let the wood dry completely overnight.
Proof 1
then sand the dented area with fine Sand the area lightly, remove the dust,
sandpaper to completely remove the and carefully apply a surface coat of
surface finish down to bare wood. whatever finish covers the rest of the floor.
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Fixing Loose & Squeaky Floorboards
L oose floorboards can be as obvious as sections of
hardwood or laminated flooring that have visibly
buckled, or as subtle as a faint squeak that is heard
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Hammer Drill
when you walk over areas of the floor. The squeaks
Nail set Wood screws
can occur because the surface flooring is loose and
pieces are rubbing against one another, or because Wood shims Wood putty
the subfloor is flexing and rubbing against framing Wood glue Eye protection
members, or against pipes or ductwork. The following Construction adhesive Work gloves
tips are presented in order of complexity. Always start Finish nails
with the easiest potential solution.
Solutions for Loose Floorboards
The surest way to reattach loose or buckled floorboards is Existing flooring nails may have simply loosened from the
above. Start by drilling pilot holes for several flooring nails underlying subfloor, allowing the floor to buckle upward. Look
in the floorboard only. The nail will grip better if you do not for nail heads securing the flooring, and use a nail set to drive
predrill the wood underlayment and subfloor. them back down into the subfloor. If the nails are hidden inProof 1
the tongue-and-groove joints, drill pilot holes on the loose
floorboards, and drive finish nails down into the subfloor. Recess
the nail heads with a nail set, then fill the holes with wood putty.
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Solutions for Squeaky Floors
1 2
3
First, find the source of the squeak, if possible. Have a helper Look for gaps between subfloor and joists. Fill these areas with
walk back and forth across the squeaky area while you shims glued into place (left), or with construction adhesive
observe from below (hopefully, you have access to the floor that will dry hard and eliminate the space for movement
from below). If you can see flexing of the subfloor, this is likely (right). This method also works if you spot areas where the
the cause of the squeak. subfloor is flexing and rubbing against pipes or HVAC ducts.
4 5
Installing solid cross-blocking between joists may also The squeaking may also be caused by gaps between the
reinforce the floor and eliminate the squeak by eliminating surface flooring and the subfloor. As the surface flooring flexes
flexing. Apply a bead of construction adhesive along the top of underfoot, the flooring pieces may rub against one another,
Proof 1 2C
the blocking, then toenail it to the adjoining joists so it is flush causing the squeak. The solution here will be to drive screws
up against the subfloor. from below, drawing down the surface flooring and snugging
it up against the subfloor. Be careful here, especially with
engineered floors, as it is all too easy to drive the screws all
the way up though the flooring, leaving exposed screw tips.
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Replacing
Damaged Floorboards
T here will be instances in which flooring boards
are too badly damaged or stained to be repaired
with acceptable results. On very deep scratches or
dents, it may be impossible to sand out the damage
without leaving a noticeable dip. But what if flooring
boards have suffered an impact that splintered them
beyond repair, or deep water stains or stains from pet
urine that are so deep that there’s no effective way
to remove the stains? In these instances, replacing
the boards will be the best option, and in most cases length and matching the pattern of the other boards
it will be possible to do this in a way that makes the will be almost invisible, especially if the entire floor is
repair invisible to all but the keenest eye. being refinished. Where this is not possible, you can
On a solid hardwood floor, a very good time to outline the damaged area, cut it away with a circular
replace floorboards is when you are already planning saw and chisel, and cut a tight-fitting replacement
on a deep sanding and refinishing. Once the replaced piece to insert in the space.
flooring is installed, a complete sanding down to bare On a laminate floating plank floor, it may easily be
wood will nicely blend in the original floor with the possible to lift up and disassemble the entire flooring
new replacement boards. job back to the damaged board, then reinstall using
Whenever possible, hardwood boards should be a replacement board. If this isn’t possible, a section
replaced along their entire length, not just patched in of board can be cut out and replaced, although this
as a short segment. A replacement board running full repair will likely be somewhat visible.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
For replacing Mallet For replacing Circular saw
hardwood planks Circular saw laminate planks Vacuum
Eye & ear protection Nails Chisel Eye & ear protection
Carpenter’s square Scrap wood Hammer Pliers
Ruler Nail set Flat pry bar Clamps
Painter’s tape Replacement planks Replacement planks Router
Drill with spade bit Wood putty Nail set Sandpaper
Hammer Putty knife Finish nails Laminate glue
Wood chisel 8d finish nails Wood putty Wax paper
Small pry bar Sandpaper Drill TowelProof 1
Oscillating multi-tool Straightedge Weights
Painter’s tape Work gloves
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How to Replace a Full Hardwood Plank
2
1
Use an oscillating multi-tool to cut the end of a Use a chisel to pry out the flooring pieces, and to complete
hardwood plank. the cuts at the end of the board. Remove any exposed nails
visible in the cutout area.
3 4
Cut a new flooring board to length. Then, use a circular saw, Facenail the new board in place by drilling pilot holes and
table saw, or wood chisel to cut away the bottom lip of the driving finish nails down through the replacement board and
board’s groove. Insert the tongue edge of the new board into into the subfloor. Recess the nail heads with a nail set, and fill
the groove of the existing board, and lever the board down the nail holes with putty. Finish the new board with stain and
Proof 1
into place, so that the remaining top groove edge fits over the top coat finish to match the rest of the floor.
tongue of the board at the other side of the cutout, as shown
in the inset photo.
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How to Replace a Section of Hardwood Flooring
1 2
Use a straightedge to outline cut lines within the boundaries of Drill a hole through the damaged board, using a spade bit. Drill
the damaged board. To avoid nails, keep the outline at least until you can see the top of the subfloor. Measure the thickness
¼" inside the seams between boards. of the floorboard, then set your circular saw to this depth.
3 4
To prevent the boards from chipping, place painter’s tape along Align the circular saw at an angle so the front of the saw foot
the outside of the pencil lines. To create a straightedge guide is against the straightedge guide. Turn on the saw, lower the
for your saw, tack a straight wood scrap inside the damaged blade into the wood, and cut along the cutting line, stoppingProof 1
area. Set this straightedge guide back from the cutting line a ¼" from the corners. Remove the straightedge guide and
distance equal to the measurement between the saw blade repeat with other cutting lines.
and the edge of the saw foot plate.
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5 6
Complete the cuts with a sharp chisel to loosen the damaged Using a pry bar, hammer, and 2 × 4 leverage block, pry up the
board from the subfloor. For clean cuts, the chisel’s beveled split board. Remove any nails showing.
side needs to face the damaged area.
Use the chisel to remove the narrow
strips of remaining wood between
7 the cutout area and the adjoining
flooring boards. For a good fit of
the replacement board, it is very
important to make these cuts as square
as possible.
Proof 1
(continued)
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8 9
Cut a segment of new flooring board to length, then use the Hook the tongue of the replacement piece into the exposed groove
circular saw to cut away the lower lip of the groove on one of the adjoining old floorboard and use a rubber mallet to tap the
side of the board. groove side down until it is flush with the surrounding floor.
10 11
On the face of the replacement board, drill pilot holes angled Once the putty is dry, sand the putty and patch area smooth
outward at each end, about ½" from the ends. Drive 1½" 8d with fine-grit sandpaper. Sand the edge of the repair board
finish nails into the pilot holes, securing the repair board to the so that the surface is feathered smooth with the adjoiningProof 1
adjoining floorboards. Recess the nail heads with a nail set, and boards. Apply matching wood stain, and let dry; then apply
fill the nail holes with wood putty. If there are any gaps along the two coats of matching finish. To find out what type of finish
edges of the replacement piece, also fill them with wood putty. your floor has, see page 132.
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How to Replace a Damaged Laminate Plank
1 2
Remove the shoe molding along the wall side nearest the Use a pry bar to lift the first board against the wall up and out,
damaged plank using a chisel or small pry bar. Also remove and disengage it from the rest of the floor. Continue removing
the moldings along the adjoining walls. flooring planks until you reach the damaged plank.
3 4
Proof 1
Snap in a replacement plank, then begin reattaching Reattach the shoe moldings along the wall using a nail set to
planks, working backward until you reach the wall where countersink finish nails every 6 to 12" along the wall. Fill the
you started. nail holes with wood putty.
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How to Replace a Section of Laminate Plank
1
2
Draw a rectangle within the boundaries of the damaged board To protect the floor, place painter’s tape along the cutting
using a pencil and straightedge. Make sure the rectangle is lines. Set the circular saw blade depth to the thickness of the
about 1½" from the edges of the full board. At the corners of flooring. Hold the saw at an angle with the front of the saw
the outline, and at the factory corners of the full, drill 3⁄8" holes foot on the floor, then turn on the saw and slowly lower the
down through the blank, just to the subfloor. blade down into the flooring so the blade is aligned with the
cutting line. Cut along all cutting lines, but stop ¼" short of
the corners. Use a sharp chisel to complete the cuts at the
corners of all the drilled holes.
4
3Proof 1 2 T
Lift out the cutout section of flooring, then use a pry bar and If the planks were secured with glue, then use the chisel to
channel-type pliers to lever out and remove the narrow, 1½" remove dried glue from the factory edges of the adjoining
strips of flooring still attached to the adjoining planks. planks. Vacuum the cutout area to remove glue flakes and
wood chips.
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5 6
Remove the tongues on one long edge and one short end of the Test-fit the replacement board, sliding the grooves over the
replacement plank. The easiest and most accurate way to do tongues on the adjoining boards. Press the plank down into
this is with a router and straight bit, running the foot of the place; if it fits snugly, proceed to the next step. If it does not
tool along a clamped straightedge guide. After removal, lightly fit perfectly, then remove the board and lightly sand the edge
sand the edge with fine-grit sandpaper. until the plank fits perfectly.
7 8
Apply laminate glue to the edges of the replacement plank and Clean up excess glue with a damp cloth. Place a strip of wax
Proof 1
into the grooves of the adjoining plank. Press the replacement paper over the replacement plank, the weight down the plank
plank firmly down into place. with heavy objects, such as books, evenly distributed over the
wax paper. Let the adhesive dry overnight.
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Replacing a Damaged Stair Tread
M inor damage to a stairway
tread board can be handled
in the same way as other damage
to a hardwood floor, as described
in previous projects in this chapter.
But a tread that is badly cracked or
splintered should be replaced entirely.
In many stairways, this is a simple
matter of prying up the old tread with
a pry bar and installing a matching
replacement. But some stairways,
especially in newer homes, are built
as a prefabricated unit offsite, and
the parts are joined together in more
complex ways. With these stairs, the
process can be more complicated,
requiring you to cut the tread into
pieces in order to remove it.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Pry bar
Oscillating multi-tool
Chisel
Hammer
Cloths
8d finish nails
Nail set
Drill and twist bits
Wood stain
Polyurethane finish
Foam brushesProof 1 2C
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
Hardwood stair treads are the highlight of any staircase.
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How to Replace a Hardwood Stair Tread
1 2
If the tread has moldings finishing the edges, carefully pry Attempt to pry the tread away intact by driving a pry bar between
these away with a small pry bar. the tread and the support stringers. On most stairways, the
stringers will be located on the ends and in the center of the
stairway. You may be able to identify the stringer locations by
locating where the nails have been driven to attach the tread.
3 4
If the tread does not come up easily, as may be the case if Lever out the pieces of the tread with a pry bar, and where
Proof 1
the construction has the treads boxed in on the sides, use necessary, use a sharp chisel to complete the removal at the
an oscillating multi-tool to cut between the tread and the wall sides and back of the tread.
or molding. (continued)
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Buy a matching stair tread. Standard
stairway treads may be available at
major home improvement centers or 5
millwork stores. If the proper profile
is not available, you may be able
to create your own by shaping the
proper-sized stock with a router. Cut
the tread to the proper length. If the
tread is finished with side moldings,
you can cut the tread short by ¼" or
so to make installation easier.
Drill pilot holes through the tread at
the stringer locations. Two or three
nails per tread should be enough; 6
the pilot holes should be slightly
smaller in diameter than the 8d
finish nails. Position the tread in
place, tight against the back riser.
Drive 8d finish nails into each pilot
hole, and drive the nail heads below
the wood surface with a nail set.
Apply a top coat finish to match the
rest of the stairs. Let dry completely,
then reinstall any trim moldings. 7Proof 1
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Resources
Aacer Flooring Shaw Floors
Solid and engineered hardwood Solid and engineered hardwood, laminate
www.aacerflooring.com www.shawfloors.com
Elmwood Reclaimed Timber Teragren
Plank and end grain floors, stairs, wood vents Bamboo
www.elmwoodreclaimedtimber.com www.teragren.com
Forest Stewardship Council Urban Floor
www.us.fsc.org Solid and engineered hardwood
www.urbanfloor.com
Hardwood Floors Magazine of the National Wood Flooring Association
www.hardwoodfloorsmag.com
Oshkosh Designs
Medallions and parquet
www.oshkoshdesigns.com
Photo Credits
Aacer Flooring: 28, 29 (both) Shaw Floors: 3 (top), 8, 10, 17 (bottom), 18, 66
Chris Rose/PropertyStock/Alamy Stock Photo: 98 Shutterstock: 4 (top), 30 (top left, top right, middle right), 31, 34, 35
(bottom), 52, 54, 110, 118, 124, 152
Elmwood Reclaimed Timber: 15, 61
Teragren: 17 (top), 75
iStock: 30 (bottom right)
Urban Floors: 11, 12 (bottom), 14 (bottom), 16, 20
Oshkosh Designs: 4 (bottom), 12 (top), 13, 14 (top), 32, 90, 92,
96, 125
Proof 1 2 T
RESOURCES 155CGWF_220659_124-160_11957.indd 155 6/1/17 9:09 AM Job: 11957 Title: #220659_Black & Decker Wood Floors (MBI) Text CGWF_220659_124-160_11957 c2.indd 155 18/1/17 10:51 AM SLC Page:155
Metric Conversion Charts
CONVERTING MEASUREMENTS
TO CONVERT: TO: MULTIPLY BY: TO CONVERT: TO: MULTIPLY BY:
Inches Millimeters 25.4 Millimeters Inches 0.039
Inches Centimeters 2.54 Centimeters Inches 0.394
Feet Meters 0.305 Meters Feet 3.28
Yards Meters 0.914 Meters Yards 1.09
Square inches Square centimeters 6.45 Square centimeters Square inches 0.155
Square feet Square meters 0.093 Square meters Square feet 10.8
Square yards Square meters 0.836 Square meters Square yards 1.2
Cubic inches Cubic centimeters 16.4 Cubic centimeters Cubic inches 0.061
Cubic feet Cubic meters 0.0283 Cubic meters Cubic feet 35.3
Cubic yards Cubic meters 0.765 Cubic meters Cubic yards 1.31
Pounds Kilograms 0.454 Kilograms Pounds 2.2
LUMBER DIMENSIONS
NOMINAL - U.S. ACTUAL - U.S. (IN INCHES) METRIC NOMINAL - U.S. ACTUAL - U.S. (IN INCHES) METRIC
1×2 ¾ × 1½ 19 × 38 mm 2×4 1½ × 3½ 38 × 89 mm
1×3 ¾ × 2½ 19 × 64 mm 2×6 1½ × 5½ 38 × 140 mm
1×4 ¾ × 3½ 19 × 89 mm 2×8 1½ × 7¼ 38 × 184 mm
1×6 ¾ × 5½ 19 × 140 mm 2 × 10 1½ × 9¼ 38 × 235 mm
1×8 ¾ × 7¼ 19 × 184 mm 2 × 12 1½ × 11¼ 38 × 286 mm
1 × 10 ¾ × 9¼ 19 × 235 mm 4×4 3½ × 3½ 89 × 89 mm
1 × 12 ¾ × 11¼ 19 × 286 mm 4×6 3½ × 5½ 89 × 140 mm
2×2 1½ × 1½ 38 × 38 mm 6×6 5½ × 5½ 140 × 140 mm
2×3 1½ × 2½ 38 × 64 mm 8×8 7¼ × 7¼ 184 × 184 mm
METRIC PLYWOOD COUNTERBORE, SHANK & PILOT HOLE DIAMETERS
STANDARD SHEATHING GRADE SANDED GRADE (INCHES)
7.5 mm (5⁄16") 6 mm (4⁄17")
SCREW COUNTERBORE CLEARANCE PILOT HOLE DIAMETER
9.5 mm (3⁄8") 8 mm (5⁄16")
SIZE DIAMETER FOR HOLE FOR
12.5 mm (½") 11 mm (7⁄16")
SCREW HEAD SCREW SHANK HARD WOOD SOFT WOOD
15.5 mm (5⁄8") 14 mm (9⁄16")
18.5 mm (¾") 17 mm (2⁄3") #1 .146 (9⁄64) 5
⁄64 3
⁄64 1
⁄32
20.5 mm (13⁄16") 19 mm (¾") #2 ¼ 3
⁄32 3
⁄64 1
⁄32
22.5 mm (7⁄8") 21 mm (13⁄16") #3 ¼ 7
⁄64 1
⁄16 3
⁄64
25.5 mm (1") 24 mm (15⁄16") #4 ¼ 1
⁄8 1
⁄16 3
⁄64
#5 ¼ 1
⁄8 5
⁄64 1
⁄16
#6 5
⁄16 9
⁄64 3
⁄32 5
⁄64
#7 5
⁄16 5
⁄32 3
⁄32 5
⁄64
#8 3
⁄8 11
⁄64 1
⁄8 3
⁄32
#9 3
⁄8 11
⁄64 1
⁄8 3
⁄32Proof 1
#10 3
⁄8 3
⁄16 1
⁄8 7
⁄64
#11 ½ 3
⁄16 5
⁄32 9
⁄64
#12 ½ 7
⁄32 9
⁄64 1
⁄8
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Index
Abrasion Criteria (AC) ratings, 31 color engineered flooring
adhesive, as part of floor, 23 as design element, 34 concrete flooring and, 27
asbestos, 39, 44 distressed floors and, 117 design ideas, 10, 12, 14, 16, 17
concrete flooring existing flooring and, 24
bamboo cleaning, 63 flooring selection, 28–29
about, 74 evaluating existing, 27 grade level and, 27
design ideas, 17 subfloor panel installation over, thickness and, 31
room temperature and 48–51 See also maintenance; repairs
humidity, 74 See also floor leveler expansion joints, 63
strip flooring installation counterbores, plugging, 69
acclimating, 76 Cumaru (Brazilian teak), 30, 31 finishes
floor preparation, 76–77 about, 114
laying flooring, 77–79 dents, 141 aged, 114, 117
See also maintenance; repair design elements choosing polyurethane, 133
baseboards color, 34 as design element, 34
built-up, 108–109 finish, 31 distressed finish application, 117
one-piece, 106–107 pattern, 32–33 evaluating, 127
removal of, 40 size of elements, 33 floor maintenance and, 126
Brazilian teak, 30, 31 texture, 34 hand-scraped, 11, 16
buffing, 118, 119 design ideas oil, 14
distressed finishes, 117 wax, 118–119
carpet floor types, 9–17 See also paint; stains
evaluating existing, 27 for stains, 115 floor anatomy, 23
removal of, 38, 43 door casings, 63 floor leveler
transitions to, 58–59 applying, 47
ceramic tile end-grain wood tiles raised subfloor panels and, 49
evaluating existing, 26–27 about, 104 flooring removal
removal of, 38, 42 design ideas, 15 asbestos and, 39
underlayment and, 45 installation, 105 baseboards, 40
chemical strippers, 24 carpet, 43
Proof 1
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ceramic tile, 42 tools for, 57, 63 floor preparation, 83–84
dust containment, 38 wood strip, 72–73 grade level and, 27
resilient tile, 42 Janka/hardness scale, 31 installation tools, 82
sheet vinyl, 41 plank flooring sheet underlayment for, 84
tools for, 39 acclimating, 66 variety of, 82
underlayment, 44–45 installation, 66–71 wall spacers and, 84
flooring selection plugging counterbores, 69 See also maintenance; repairs
hardness, 31 signs of resanding, 25 linoleum tiles, 26, 42
hardwood transitions See also resilient flooring
exotic woods, 30 floor gaps, 60
flooring grades, 29 staircases, 61 maintenance
odd lots flooring, 29 thresholds and moldings, dent repair, 141
solid vs. engineered, 28–29 58–59 evaluating finishes, 127
thickness, 31 uneven, 24 finish type and, 126
laminate flooring, 31 water damage, 25 loose floorboards, 142
Forest Stewardship Council See also maintenance; scratches
(FSC), 28 refinishing; repairs; repair of deep, 141
vintage floors repair of shallow, 140
grade level, 27 hesquite, 31 type of floor and, 140
hickory, 31 squeaks, 143
hardness (Janka) scale, 31 See also refinishing;
hardwood flooring inlayed borders, 14 stain removal
chemical strippers, 24 Ip, 30, 31 maple, 10, 11, 31
cleaning with mineral spirits, 24 measuring, rooms, 35
cutting, 56 Janka scale, 31 medallion, decorative, 96–97
decorative medallion installation, joists, 23 mesquite, 31
96–97 flooring direction and, 66 mineral spirits, for cleaning existing
evaluating existing, 24–25, 27 floor, 24
exotic flooring, 30 laminate flooring moisture content, 63
flooring selection, 28–29 about, 31, 80 molding
fully bonded strip, 72–73 Abrasion Criteria (AC) rating, 31 baseboard removal, 40
grades of, 29 concrete flooring and, 27 built up baseboard, 108–109
installation cutting around obstacles, one-piece baseboard, 106–107
cutting, 56 88–89 for transitions, 58–59
overview, 55 existing flooring and, 25
plank floors, 66–71 floating floor installation, oak, 12, 14, 31
tips for, 62–63 85–87 one-piece base molding, 106–107Proof 1
158 WOOD FLOORS
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paint underlayment installation, 47 resilient flooring
advantages of, 120 products. See tools evaluating existing, 26–27
application, 122 removal of, 42
checkerboard application, 123 radiant heat, bamboo flooring respirators, 137
dilute, as stain, 114 and, 74
floor preparation for, 121–122 raised subfloor panels safety
mixing, 122 anatomy of, 48 asbestos and, 39, 44
primer, 121–122 benefits of, 48 sanding and, 137
sealer, 121 floor leveler and, 49 sanding
See also finishes; stains installation over concrete, 49–51 process for, 137–138
parquet random-width planks, 10, 16 safety and, 137
about, 92 red oak, 31 sandpapers for, 139
design ideas, 12, 13, 92 refinishing signs of past, 25
diagonal layout installation, 95 choosing polyurethane tools for, 136, 139
tile installation, 93–95 finishes, 133 vs. screening, 130–131
Patagonian rosewood, 30 evaluating floor condition, 132 sandpapers, 139
pattern, 32–33 inspection for nails, 133 scratches
pegged plank flooring, 103 sanding deep, 141
planning process for, 137–139 shallow, 140
evaluation of existing flooring sandpapers for, 139 screening
carpet, 27 tools for, 136, 139 process for, 134–135
ceramic tile, 26–27 screening tools for, 134
concrete, 27 process for, 134–135 vs. sanding, 130–131
hardwood, 24–25, 27 tools for, 134 sheet vinyl flooring, removal of,
resilient, 26–27 screening vs. sanding, 130–131 38, 41
subfloor, 27 repairs Southern pine, 31
underlayment, 27 floorboard replacement, timing squeaks, 143
vinyl/linoleum tiles, 26 of, 144 stain removal
importance of, 21 hardwood flooring products for, 129
planning checklist, 22 plank replacement, 145 types of stains, 128
room measurement, 35 section replacement, 146–147 wood bleach application, 129
selecting floor type, 22 laminate flooring stains
preparation damaged plank, 149 applying to bare wood, 116
floor leveler, 47 damaged section, 150–151 design ideas, 115
raised subfloor panel installation, loose floorboards, 142 dilute paint as, 114
48–51 squeaks, 143 selecting, 114
subfloor repair, 46 stair tread replacement, 152–154 See also finishes; paint;
Proof 1
stain removal
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staircases tongues and grooves vintage floors
tips for, 61 milling, 100–101 about, 98
tread replacement, 152–154 routing, 102 acclimating, 99
subfloor tools milling tongues and grooves,
about, 23 chemical strippers, 24 100–101
evaluating existing, 27 for floor removal, 39 pegged plank flooring, 103
hardwood installation and, 62 hardwood installation, 57 reclaiming directly, 99
raised subfloor panel installation, for laminate flooring, 82 routing tongues and grooves, 102
48–51 mineral spirits, 24 vinyl tile
repairing sections, 46 for sanding, 136, 139 evaluating existing, 26
for screening and refinishing, 134 removal of, 38
texture, 34 for stain removal, 129 See also sheet vinyl flooring
thresholds
existing flooring and, 26 underlayment walnut, 31
for transitions, 58–59 ceramic tile and, 45 Wenge, 30, 31
Tigerwood, 30 evaluating existing, 27 wide planks, design ideas, 12, 14
tile. See ceramic tile; linoleum tile; installing plywood, 47 wood bleaches, 129
vinyl tile removal of, 38, 44–45 wood block flooring. See end-grain
wood tilesProof 1
160 WOOD FLOORS
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SLC Page:160Rather have me do it?
New floors transform a room. I install them right.